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Zanskar 2012 – Exploration of Virgin Peaks

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Zanskar 2012 – Exploration of Virgin Peaks ● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2013 KIMIKAZUTATSUO (TIM) SAKAMOTO INOUE EThexplo Firstratio nAscent 2012 o off H Lopchinidden Vi rFenggin P e(KG-2)aks in 6,805m Zanskar AutumnTemasa 2009 Nala Expedition, Gompe To tokp othe an Kangrid Hapt aGarpol Tokp Easto of IMountains,ndian Hima lTibetaya South Zanskar, the north west of Indian Himalaya is the very exciting mountain area with many unknown and untrodden peaks. In 2009, we explored Reru Valley and in 2011, we went to Lenak Nala and Giabul Nala, to explore the unknown virgin peaks. As a next project, we decided to explore Temasa Nala and Gompe Tokpo, northern valleys close to Reru Valley during June 27 ~ August 2, 2012. Our exploration team consisted of four senior members, Mr. Mitsuhiko Okabe (71), Mr. Masaki Shibata (66), Mr. Toshihiro Katsumata (64) and me Mr. Kimikazu Sakamoto (72) as the leader. We requested Mr. Tsewang Yangphel of Hidden Himalaya in Leh to support our expedition same as 2009 and 2011, and he arranged three kitchen staffs, two horsemen and ten horses. 1. Approach to Zanskar We left Japan for Delhi on June 27, and arrived at Leh in Ladakh by air on June 28, 2012. We enjoyed Hemis Gompa Tsechu which was the most famous biggest festival in Ladakh on June 29. We left Leh on June 30 by chartered cars and arrived at Padam via Kargil on July 2. On July 3, we had the rest at Padam for acclimatization and visited Thonde Gompa and Zangla Chomo Gompa. We were pleased to see the beautiful pink wild roses near Thonde and Zangla. At Thonde, we could have the exciting panoramic view of many peaks surrounding Gompe Tokpo. On July 4, after visiting Karsha Gompa and Tsewang's mother at Hongche village, we drove to Bardan and set up our camping tents at Bardan Gompa School. [Remark」 Map-1 Climbing route to Lopchin Feng There is no official mountain name given to the peaks in Southern Zanskar. In order to avoid any confusion in identifying the mountains, we put our tentative mountain names like T1, T2, T3 to the peaks in Temasa Nala and Gompe Tokpo, H1, H2, H3 to the peaks in Haptal Tokpo and M1, M2, M3 to the peaks in Mulung Tokpo. The outline maps drawn by myself are showing the tentative names. 2. Exploration of Temasa Nala July 5 (Thursday): Cloudy, 6:55 / Bardan Gompa School (3,635 m) – 8:20/Col of traverse hill – 12:40 / Meadow before Korlomshe Tokpo (3,945 m). Today is the first day of our exploration to Temasa Nala. From Bardan Gompa School, we could see the exciting east face of P6071 (R1) glittering in the morning sunrise. We walked up the gentle green pasture hillside and crossed three small hills. Then we walked down to the right side bank of Temasa Nala. Temasa Nala was open and wide valley with about 200 ~ 300m width. Both side banks of the river were the very wide and flat meadow suitable for grazing yaks. But, the stream of Temasa Nala was so rapid and strong and seemed to be impossible for our crossing even by riding on horse. Temasa Nala welcomed us with many beautiful flowers, like pink wild rose, blue poppy, yellow Hichu and etc. We could see the rock mountain P6028 (T12) on the right side and the north face of P6071 (R1) on the 68 JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2013 ● left side. We came to the nice grassy meadow before the junction with Korlomshe Tokpo and decided to use this place for our camping site as we could get pure water. July 6 (Friday): Fair, 7:00/CS before Kolromshe Tokpo (3,945 m) – 11:50 / Kanjur (Junction with Chhuralpachan Nala) – 12:30 / Near junction with Kangla Glacier (4,200 m). In the beautiful fair weather, we enjoyed the pleasant walking on the right bank of Temasa Nala looking up the north face of P6071 (R1) and P6028 (T12), P6294 (T4) on Tidu Glacier appeared behind the junction with Kangla Glacier. Google Earth 3D photo showed this mountain as the white snow mountain. But, the actual peak of P6294 (T4) which we saw from Temasa Nala was the pyramidal sharp peak mixed with rock and snow. We pitched our tents at the wonderful green pasture just after passing Kanjur which was located at the junction with Kangla Glacier, as we could have the pure spring water. Many yaks were enjoying in eating grasses and walking around near our camp site. July 7 (Saturday): Fair and Cloudy, 7:30 / CS near junction with Kangla Glacier (4,200 m) – 9:15/ Junction with Kangla Glacier - 10:30 / Glacier tongue of Tidu Glacier – 14:10/Near Junction with Tsewang Tokpo (4,400 m) –18:00 / CS near junction with Kangla Glacier (4,200 m). We had one day hiking to Tidu Glacier. The glacier tongue looked not so far from our camp site, but actually it took three hours for us to reach there. We climbed up to the center of the moraine from the glacier tongue and walked around on the moraine avoiding many crevasses. It took a lot of time in maze of moraine until we reached near the junction with Tsewang Tokpo which went up to the North Glacier where P6107 (T9) and P6022 (T7) were located. On the left side of Tidu Glacier, there were the attractive peaks P6294 (T4) and P5995 (T6). But both mountains looked difficult to be climbed. Originally, we planned to go up Tsewang Tokpo to see P6107 (T9) and P6022 (T7) in three days trekking, carrying up camping equipments and foods by horses. However, we found that it was impossible to carry up the heavy baggages by horses into the Tsewang Tokpo, because it was steep with several water falls and the side slopes was also so steep and dangerous with unstable stones for horses. Therefore, we gave up this exploration program into Tsewang Tokpo. It took us long time to go down on the unstable moraine to the glacier tongue. We came back to our camp site at 18:00, being fatigued. July 8 (Sunday): Cloudy and fine, rest day. We decided to take rest for full day, as Mr. Katsumata was not in good condition with heavy cough and phlegm and his face was swollen. On the other side from our camp site, there was Chhuralpachan Nala, the big branch of Temasa Nala which goes up South to P6177 (R6). There was the big rock castle on the left side of Chhuralpachan Nala. It was the junction peak which was located on the main ridge between P5947 (R2) and P6036 (R3). This peak has no height on the Indian Official Map but seemed to be around 5,800 ~ 5,900 m. I wondered any young climbers will try to challenge this rock castle peak in the near future. July 9 (Monday): Fair, 8:00 / CS near junction with Kangla Glacier (4,200 m) – 9:30 / Junction with Kangla Glacier – 10:30 / Right side mountain – 12:20 / CS (4,200 m). As Mr. Katsumata had the high fever with 38.6 Celsius, other three members had the short hiking to the right side mountain in Temasa Nala to see the inside of Kangla Glacier. We climbed up grassy slope with faint yak trail. We saw the other side of Temasa Nala and recognized that Kangla Glacier was big and long. July 10 (Tuesday): Cloudy and then fair, 5:00 / CS (4,200 m) - 6:00 / Junction with Kangla Glacier – 8:05 / Kangla Glacier 4530m – 10:45 / Kangla Glacier 5,000 m – 12:40 / Junction with Kangla Glacier – 15:40 / CS (4,200 m). Three members and Tsewang, our guide, left the camp site at 5:00 am to have one day hiking to Kangla Glacier, as Mr. Katsumata still had heavy cough and phlegm. Two 69 ● JAPANESE ALPINE NEWS 2013 horsemen came with us to the junction to assist us to cross Temasa Nala on horses. Even in the early morning, the stream was very strong and rapid. There was the yak trail on the left side gentle slope of Kangla Glacier, with several cairns up to about 4,500 m where the glacier started. Mr. Okabe and Mr. Shibata went ahead as they were fast walkers, and Tsewang and I enjoyed the slow walk. When we looked back the other side of Temasa Nala, we could see P6107 (T9) in Tsewang Tokpo and P5957 (T10). When we walked up on the glacier over 4,500 m, we could see the beautiful snow and rock mountain P5995 (T3) on the right side and the top of Kangla Glacier. I took several photographs of the mountains on the left side of Kangla Glacier, but unfortunately we could not identify which peak was P5935 (T2). I and Tsewang turned back from about 5,000 m where the glacier became flat, and Mr. Okabe and Mr. Shibata went up to about 5,100 m. When we went down to the junction, Temasa Nala had so much water with melted glacier and became so rapid and strong. We went up near the glacier tongue of Tidu Glacier and crossed the rather shallow spot on horse. After we came back to the camp site, the rock castle on theleft side of Chhurapachan Nala was glittering in the sunset. July 11 (Wednesday): Fair and then cloudy 7:50 / CS (4200m) – 9:40 / Nyusri Yonga – 11:00 / Korlomshe Tokpo (4,020 m). We moved down to the junction with Korlomshe Tokpo for our exploration into Korlomshe Tokpo. We pitched our tents at the nice beautiful place with pure water on the left side of Korlomshe Tokpo.
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