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Jammu & Kashmir

Jammu & Kashmir

& to 347 essential © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © Indus Valley Pahalgam Mountain Treks ( p360 ) or hike among the ) or hike among the p360 ( in & Gulmarg Gulmarg ( p361 ) ( p367 ), Leh Pahalgam Pahalgam through through

( p391 ) ( p380 ) (monasteries) and and (monasteries)

Zanskar (Tibetan dumplings) and (Tibetan dumplings) and Indus Valley ( p357 ) of the ( p379 ) and momos

relive the Raj on a houseboat in relive Srinagar at the on magnificent mountain treks pines at the mountain resort of Buddhist or Jainan relics), murmur , murmur mantras, Buddhist or Jainan relics), munch palaces explore the dusty backstreets of the dusty backstreets explore Ladakh’s glorious medieval capital Ladakh

Ski some of ’s finest powder on the ski slopes of at ancient mosques and your respects Pay Marvel murals and mix with meditative at heights of the Himalaya Experience the giddy Climb (domed edifices housing

„ „ „ „ HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS „

If Jammu and Srinagar seem like too much of a gamble, don’t overlook Ladakh Jammu and Srinagar seem like and too much of a gamble, don’t overlook If Many people panic at the idea of travelling to Kashmir,the idea of travelling Many people panic at so it’s important to dispel some

up a fabulous circuit from Srinagar all the way to Kinnaurup a fabulous circuit from Srinagar all the way in . highest in the world, connect Ladakh, Zanskar, Kashmir, Lahaul, Spiti and Manali, opening have been for decades. However, the Kashmiri is ongoing and it is However, insurgency been for decades. have passes, the A series of mountain and snow-capped mountains. wedged in by roaring touched by the Kashmiri conflict, while Jammu and the Kashmir Valley are safer than they safer touched by the Kashmiri are conflict, while Jammu and the Kashmir Valley to India and transplanted a little slice of , are rugged Buddhist regions These Zanskar. Buddhist Ladakh LadakhMuslim Kashmir and the to the northeast Valley. almost un- is myths. The state of Jammu and Kashmir is actually three separate regions: Hindu Jammu, regions: of Jammu and Kashmir separate state The is actually three myths. and . in serene Dal Lake. Dal Lake. in serene Kashmir wars between India has been the cause of three over Remember that the dispute most rugged landscapes on earthmost rugged landscapes in mountainous Ladakh,one of the most sublime and around Srinagar. to either Jammu or the area travelling check the security situation before walking the trekking routes north of Pahalgam. Kashmir boasts some of the highest and walking north the trekking routes of Pahalgam. drifting back to this legendary backwater, returning to Srinagar’s famous houseboats and to Srinagar’s famous houseboats returning backwater, drifting back to this legendary and most controversial tourist destinations. After 20 years of isolation, travellers are slowly are of isolation, travellers 20 years After tourist destinations. and most controversial of Paradise. All these terms have been used to describe Kashmir, have India’s wildest one of All these terms of Paradise. The mountain retreat of Mughals and Buddhist ; the Alps of India; Jehangir’s Valley Valley Jehangir’s the Alps of India; and Buddhist lamas; of Mughals mountain retreat The Jammu & Kashmir Kashmir & Jammu JAMMU & KASHMIR

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V R U P S U Taktok a S P I T I r R a n g e b u N Peak Karu (6400m) Miru Kangyaze Pang (5602m) (5060m) Sumur See Around Leh Map (p381) Lughzun Lachlung La Leh Chamshen Panamik (5328m) River Matho Khardung

Nubra S t o k R a n g e Phyang (6121m) Patsio Hunder Lhakhang Sking/Kargyak Ramjak River Nimmu

Markha River L A D A K H

Phuktal Shyok L a d a k h River Tsarap Purne

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Indus Stod Pattan Valley H I M A C H A L lonelyplanet.com JAMMU & KASHMIR THE KASHMIRVALLEY ing under theEmperorAshoka inthe3rd became a major centre forBuddhist learn- tioned intheMahabharata andthevalley The Hindukingdom of Kashmir wasmen- History theboxedsituation first; see text, p352 . to visitKashmir without checking thepolitical can flare upsuddenlyanditwouldbefoolish as thewestern gateway toLadakh. growing numbers of travellers are usingSrina gar once againattractingtrekkers andskiers, and ofthe hillstations Gulmarg andPahalgam are Inthenorth, mosques andbobbinghouseboats. nagar isamesmerisingsprawlof ancient wooden atSri- whilethesummercapital and museums, a fascinatingmetropolisjammedwithtemples for manyyears. Thewinter Jammu, capital, is Kashmir Valley were thesafest theyhave been of onforeigna series deadlyattacks tourists. after 1989, whenthetouristindustrycollapsed Valley are safer thantheyhave since been violence, andbothJammu andtheKashmir have gonesomewaytowardsquellingthe to Pakistan. recent However, peaceovertures kingdom joinedwithIndiainstead of ceding Independence, whenthemajority-Muslim scarredbeen sinceIndian byviolenceever Once avisionof tranquillity,thevalleyhas valley viathe2531m-longJawahar Tunnel. toJammu,southern highway exitingthe fromSrinagartoKargilhighway andthe into theKashmir Valley – thesummer-only flowing ern neighbours, withtheirgreen eyesandgrey lookdifferenteven totheirsouthernandeast- a wallof Kashmiris snow-cappedmountains. rows of poplartrees, pin-straight backingonto fields delineated byfruitandnutorchards and flat andheavily cultivated, withlow,terraced Pradesh. Thecountrysideinsidethevalleyis neighbouring of states PunjabandHimachal orIranthanthe toAfghanistan land iscloser culture andappearance,thisMuslimheart- Asia.straddles IndiaandCentral Inboth the western Himalaya,theKashmir Valley Hemmed inbythePirPanjal and mountains 350 JMU & JAMMU However, certain caveats certain However, apply.Violence As thisbookwenttoprint,Jammu andthe Unless youfly,there are onlytworoutes AM H AHI ALY • itr VALLEYJAMMU &THEKASHMIR ••History pheran (woollen tunics). mosques. pression inthelavish interiors of Srinagar’s Kashmiri style of paintingfoundanewex- protection underAkbar (1556–1605) and the buttheHindupanditswere grantedLadakh, ley. Followers of fled easttowards temples andBuddhistmonasteries intheval- ordered thedestructionof mostof theHindu reign of Sikander(1389–1413), who Sultan solidated theirholdonthevalleyduring con- went intorapiddecline. TheMughals 13th centuryandHinduBuddhistculture IslamtoKashmirSufi mysticsbrought inthe andSpiti. Lahaul astery muralsinLadakh, across theHimalaya,creating fabulousmon- Kashmiri muralartiststravelledcentury BC. sparsely inhabitedsparsely area themain hasbeen remaining thirdwas held byPakistan. This majority-Muslim Kashmir Valley, whilethe wasunderIndian control,includingthe state sparking thefirst India–Pakistan war. troopstosecure theborder, miri Hindu,sent lot withIndia. Pandit a Kash- Nehru,himself persuadedstan, themaharaja tothrow inhis men, backed bythenewgovernment inPaki- equivocation, aninvasionbyPashtun tribes- with eitherIndiaorPakistan. After months of lation, itsmaharaja initiallyrefused tosignup ofstate Kashmir hadamajority Muslimpopu- began withPartition. theprincely Although ruled from1846untilIndependence. Kashmir totheHinduDogradynasty,who the Britishdefeated th the controlof rulers of theSikh Jammu. After of independentkingdoms,nominallyunder Jammu andKashmir affiliation wasaloose By theendof theconflict,two-thirdsof the By thetimeBritisharrived inIndia, Most of thecurrent problems inKashmir

„ „ „ „ „ FAST FACTS When to go: Kashmir –ApriltoOctober Whentogo:Kashmir , Mainlanguages:Kashmiri, Capital: Srinagar(summer)andJammu Area: 222,236sqkm Population:10.1million May toOctober – Ladakh (December toMarchforskiing); Punjabi andPahari Purig, , Balti,Dogri,Ladakhi, (winter) e Sikhs theyhanded e Sikhs lonelyplanet.com JAMMU & KASHMIR 351 Paki- with the and mujahideen dances (ritual masked dances chaam In fact, most Indian Kashmiris would would Kashmiris most Indian In fact, of women in militant-controlled areas. Every Every women in militant-controlled areas. of executed women are Kashmiri year, dozens of rather be independent of both India both of be independent rather political parties, the mainstream stan. of Most and ruling Congress–Jammu including the coalition, Party Democratic People’s Kashmir inde- autonomy or full working towards are However, the conflict Kashmir. pendence for for Islamic a causehas also become célèbre groups – insurgent two most active radicals. The – and Jaish-e-Mohammad Lashkar-e-Toiba founded by Afghan were The India. Muslim rule over restoring aim of fighting for the rightsclaim that militants are treatment is undermined by the Kashmiris of (rectangular painting on cloth) every twelfth year (next in 2016). on show (Nov; Chemrey, p383 ) Masked dances and mystic rituals Gompa. at Chemrey p383 (Nov; Chemrey, (Jul-Sep; Pahalgam, p361 ) At full moon, hundreds of thousands of Hindu) At full moon, hundreds pilgrims trek p361 (Jul-Sep; Pahalgam, (Sep/Oct; Jammu, p365 ) Thousands of Hindus temple make to Vaishno the 12km trek p365 (Sep/Oct; Jammu, (Feb/Mar; Matho, p382 ) Oracles at Matho enter a trance and commit daring acts of acrobatics p382 Matho, (Feb/Mar; (1-15 Sep; Leh, p367 ; , p383 ) Run by the tourism department, dances, polo, with Buddhist p383 ; Nubra, p367 (1-15 Sep; Leh, (Apr; Jammu, p363 ) Three days of eating, drinkingThree and dancing in the Kashmiri winter capital. ) p363 (Apr; Jammu, (Jul/Aug; Phyang, p380 ) Phyang Gompa comes alive with p380 (Jul/Aug; Phyang, (Feb/Mar; Stok, p382 ) Masked dances and predictions from the oracles at Stok Gompa. of the future p382 Stok, (Feb/Mar; (Jul; Lamayuru, p387 ) Another monastic festival to ward off evil, with colourful) Another monastic festival masked dances in p387 (Jul; Lamayuru, •• History JAMMU & THE KASHMIR VALLEY (statewide) Muslims commemorate the sacrifice of Ibrahim (Abraham) and animal with feasts (Feb; Leh, p367 ; Likir, p386 ; Diskit, p384 ) The Festival of the Scapegoat; Buddhists celebrate the New ) The Festival p384 ; Diskit, p386 ; Likir, p367 Leh, (Feb; (Oct/Nov; p381 ) p381 (Oct/Nov; (Jul; p391 ) (Jan; p380 )

(statewide) The annual Islamic month of fasting starts (statewide) The annual Islamic on 13 September 2007, 1 September 2008, 22

(Jun/Jul; Hemis, p382 ) Buddhists mark the birth of with three days of masked) Buddhists mark the birth with three dancing of Padmasambhava p382 (Jun/Jul; Hemis, (times vary; Ladakh, p365 ; Zanskar, p389 ) Monks carry out special rituals and masked dances to celebrate p389 Zanskar, ; p365 Ladakh, (times vary; every third year (next on show in 2010). (Dec/Jan; Ladakh, p365 ) Tibetan New Year is celebrated in Buddhist homes and gompas with feasts, ritualsBuddhist homes and gompas with feasts, celebrated in is New Year ) Tibetan p365 (Dec/Jan; Ladakh, Amarnath Ji Yatra Amarnath Ji Yatra

Thiksey Spituk Karsha

and dances. and dances. for three days from Pahalgam to venerate the ice at Amarnath. for three Lamayuru Gompa. Lamayuru Gompa. to celebrate the victory evil of good over and of Buddhism over pre-existing and the unfurling of a giant religions) thangka August 2009 and 11 August 2010, ending 30 days later with the feast of Eid al-Fitr. of Eid al-Fitr. feast August 2009 and 11 August 2010, ending 30 days later with the Year with masked the evil spirits dances – effigies representing burnt or cast into the . of the old year are Year in honour of Mata . in honour of Mata Vaishno sacrificesNovember 2009 and 17 November 2010. on 20 December 2007, 9 December 2008, 28 Ladakh Festival Angchok Festival Chemrey Yuru Kabgyat Kabgyat Yuru Tsedup Phyang and Nubra. archery, music and sword dancing in Leh Guru Tse-Chu Matho Nagrang Tse-Chu „ Gu-Stor „ „ FESTIVALS IN LADAKH & ZANSKAR IN LADAKH & ZANSKAR FESTIVALS Eid al-Adha Sri Ramadan Yatra Devi Vaishno FESTIVALS IN JAMMU & KASHMIR & KASHMIR IN JAMMU FESTIVALS Festival Jammu the victory of good over evil. Gompas celebrating Gu-Stor include: and the unfurling of Hemis’ great and the unfurling of Hemis’ great while blindfolded, then carry out ritual mutilations and make predictions about the future. Hindus and Buddhists were generally con- generally Buddhists were Hindus and Pakistan agenda. agenda. Pakistan some from Kashmir but rather more from but rather more some from Kashmir ensuring a pro- Afghanistan and Pakistan, increasing resentment in the valley. By 1990, resentment increasing fighters, the state freedom was awash with The responded with brutalforce, The Indian army responded tent with Indian rule, but the Muslim popula- with Indian tent When promises restive. increasingly tion grew to materialise, autonomy failed increased of to armed rebellion. turned a militant fringe another protracted conflict. another protracted ous border – known as the – known as the Line of ous border – 1965, triggering invaded again in but Pakistan cause of tension between India and Pakistan between and Pakistan India tension causeof the UN established In 1949, a tenu- ever since. lonelyplanet.com JAMMU & KASHMIR together by the devastating Kashmiritogether bythedevastating earth- Line of Control.IndiaandPakistan were forced cant reduction of inlevels violenceacrossthe autonomy forKashmir, matched byasignifi- tries backfromthebrink. Kargil, before the UNtalked thetwocoun- an incursion acrosstheLineof Controlnear responded withitsowntests, thenmounted region almosttobreaking rose point. Pakistan Indian government in1998,tensions inthe religious lines,butthiswasrejected byDelhi. led tocallsforthedivisionof Kashmir along ofdisappearance 4000people. Electionsin1996 by theIndianarmy,includingunexplained were tants abuses matched byhumanrights unrest. Massacres bymili- andbombattacks rule fromDelhi,triggering 16years of bloody support theinsurgency. mutilated asawarningtofamilieswhofail for perceived transgressions againstIslamor 352 Subsequent electionshaveSubsequent ledtoincreasing ofFollowing aseries nuclear tests bythe In 1990,Kashmir wasplacedunderdirect

„ „ „ „ level ofviolenceinsideKashmir. Usefulnewsservices: ofclashesandmilitantattackscanprovide butnewsreports acluetothecurrentably skewed, of thesafety situation.Instead, looktolocalnewspapersandnewswebsites. Editorialsare invari- assoldierscanaskforyourpapersat anytime. carry yourpassport regular Expect bagsearcheswhenenteringmilitary –whenindoubt,ask. buildingsandalways army presence atbanks,offices,busstationsand religious sites. Avoid photosofanything taking andpublicbuses. markets attractions, Even whenthingsare peaceful,there isahugeIndian speech oracontroversial arrest toflare fortheconflict upagain. sume thattravel issafe afirebrand It onlytakes justbecausethingsseemcalmonthesurface. pilgrims. crowdsofHindu Donotas- military installationsandavoidlarge crowds,particularly andprotests afterpolitical parties Fridayprayersare allpotential flashpoints. Bewaryaround times ofheightened politicaltension. Politicalanniversaries, publicdemonstrations,ralliesby government hasissuedspecificadviceagainsttravel at toKashmir. avoidKashmir Inparticular, tion before youtravel. Beaware thattravel insurancepoliciesmaynotcover youifyourhome can occurwithoutwarningsoitisessentialtogetreliable informationaboutthesecuritysitua- Srinagar andJammu. on civiliansthroughout2006,includingaseriesofdeadlygrenade attacksonIndiantouristsin onadailybasisandthere werebrink, butviolencecontinuestorockKashmir militantattacks dangerous placeintheworld.The twonuclearneighbourshave sincepulledbackfromthe asthemostIn 2000,withIndiaandPakistan gearingupforwar,BillClintondescribedKashmir IS ITSAFE?

AM H AHI ALY • itr VALLEYJAMMU &THEKASHMIR ••History Unfortunately fortravellers,Unfortunately peopleinvolved intourismare togive unlikely anunbiasedview continuetostageperiodicattacksonarmyinstallations,governmentMilitants offices,tourist When thingsare calm, isnomore dangerousthananywhereKashmir elseinIndia,butattacks Kashmir Times Kashmir HeraldKashmir Greater Kashmir Daily Excelsior (www.dailyexcelsior.com) (www.kashmirtimes.com). (www.kashmirherald.com) (www.greaterkashmir.com) civilians anddomestictouristscontinued and Jammu, andfrequent andshare buses Numerous domesticairlinesflytoSrinagar Getting There&Around son atGulmarg. December toMarch, which markstheskisea- smaller roadsmaybeblocked bysnowfrom to Srinagarisusuallyopenyear-round, but climate.mountain TheroadfromJammu August). TheKashmir Valley hasacooler to and humidityduringthemonsoon(June Jammu hasaplainsclimate withheavy rain Climate plan accordingly. of risksinKashmir theongoingsecurity and 2006.Travellersthroughout shouldbeaware their claimtotheotherportionof Kashmir. and Indiahadagreed inprincipletoabandon this bookwenttopress, theleaders of Pakistan thebox,quake inOctober2005–see p360 . As However, militant attacks onsoldiers, attacks militant However, lonelyplanet.com JAMMU & KASHMIR

353 10am- shikaras 10am- h h 10am-4pm h 2456291; www 9am-8pm) Handy for Dal Handy for Dal 9am-8pm) % ( h (gondola-like taxi boats) (gondola-like (MA Rd; (MA 10am-6pm) Helpful staff and h (Bund, off Residency Rd; (Dal Gate; shikaras 2457927; www.jktdc.org; TRC Rd; % Most visitors to Srinagar stay out on Dal LakeMost visitors Touts are another hassle in Kashmir. From another hassle in Kashmir. Touts are .jktourism.org; TRC Rd; plus a Rs 10 map of Srinagar brochures, and Kashmir. Gatethe boulevard. and market, children to school and travellers from from and travellers to school children market, If you want to photograph houseboat to shore. bring a long lens and a polarising the lake, from the water. to cut down the glare filter the delightful houseboatsin one of left behind can hire from the Raj, but landlubbers 7pm) At the back of the Tourism Reception this Centre; 7pm) At office makes bookings for its properties statewide. will try hangers-on the moment you arrive, to steer you towards a commission-paying houseboat. Be but firm and they will polite Travel- on to another candidate. usually move dodgy houseboat of should also be wary lers see in Delhi – booked the boxed packages . p357 text, Sights DAL LAKE a vast, mirror-flat Srinagar’s jewel, LakeDal is the carved reflecting water wooden sheet of the houseboats the misty and balconies of mountains. Flotillas of Pir Panjal the peaks of gaily painted skiff transporting goods to lake, around the TOURIST INFORMATION TOURIST INFORMATION Jammu & Kasmir Tourism Development Corporation Tourism Reception Centre Dangers & Annoyances since the war- has come a long way Kashmir going torn 1980s, but political violence is an on . opposite text, problem – see the boxed Skybiz InternetSkybiz MONEY Rd is the most on Residency ATM The HFDC cash. place to withdraw reliable Jammu & Kashmir Bank POST Main post office heavily fortified,5pm Mon-Sat) This post office is and searched on arrival.customers are International parcels 1pm on Monday and can only be sent from 10am to Wednesday. (J&KTDC; Mon-Fri, and travellers Sat) Changes cash 10am-12.30pm near a branch There’s major currencies. cheques in most on the boulevard. the Hotel Paradise 9am- h •• Srinagar JAMMU & THE KASHMIR VALLEY (Dr Ali Jan Shopping Plaza, MA Rd; (Dr Ali Jan Shopping Plaza, MA

0194 / pop 971,357 West of the boulevard and the is Dal Gate West of No permits are required to visit Jammu or to visit Jammu required are No permits

6pm) Close to Lambert Lane.

BBC Online Information Information INTERNET ACCESS offer net cafés, but all few Srinagar has just a fast connections for Rs 30 per hour. Dal Gate, while the public bus stand while the public bus is further Dal Gate, west along MA Rd. Most banks and offices squeezed between MA Rd and Residency are by the pedestrian Rd, divided from the river Bund. River. Most of the houseboats and tourist fa- Most of River. close to the Boulevardcilities are on the south Dal Lake. Mughal The gardens are of shore and the old strung out along the east shore, squeezed town sprawls along the west shore, hill. Parbat and Hari between the river Lalshopping district of Chowk. The tourist close bus stand to are office and government Srinagar is divided into neighbourhoods by Srinagar is divided into neighbourhoods Dal Lake the Jhelum and the tributaries of Orientation a new wave of bombings and murders. With bombings and murders. of a new wave this in mind, it would be foolhardy to visit security the latest Srinagar without checking . opposite situation thoroughly – see minor shift in the political balance can trigger can trigger in the political balance minor shift houseboats, fabulous Mughal gardens, the old town. the of historic wooden mosques However, security is still a concern. Kashmir but even it has been a is the safest for years, ism for a living. The attractions of Srinagar are Srinagar are of ism for a living. The attractions myriad – placid Dal Lake with its slumbering coming back to life, to the great relief of the of relief to the great coming back to life, who depend on tour- Kashmiris thousands of but the Kashmiri summer capital summer is slowly but the Kashmiri % since the houseboatsIt has been 20 years of with holidaymakers, last filled Dal Lake were during times of political tension – chartered – chartered political tension during times of usually safer. jeeps are SRINAGAR security advice in the boxed text, opposite . opposite text, security in the boxed advice been attacked Public buses and trains have the Kashmir valley, but you should heed valley, but you should the the Kashmir ices, and a new line is being extended from line is being extended ices, and a new Kashmir and around the to Srinagar Jammu updates. locally for valley – check jeeps provide connections to Ladakh connections jeeps provide and the served is train serv- by frequent Jammu plains. lonelyplanet.com Ὀ

JAMMU & KASHMIR 354 Grand Park 4 6 1 3 2 5 SRINAGAR 18 14 Gulmarg (43km) Stand (1km); To WesternBus To Airport Zain-ul-Abidin...... Sri PratapSinghMuseum...... Shankaracharya Mandir...... Pir DastgirSahib...... Pathar Masjid...... Naqshband Sahib...... Makhdoom Sahib...... Khanqah ofShah-i-Hamadan... Kashmir GolfClub...... Jama Masjid...... Hazratbal Mosque...... Tourist ReceptionCentre...... Skybiz Internet...... Post Office...... (J&KTDC)...... (see6) DevelopmentCorporation Jammu &KashmirTourism Jammu &KashmirBank...... Jammu &KashmirBank...... HFDC ATM...... (see19) BBC Online...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Tomb oftheMother A3 Mosque ofAkhundMullaShah.. AM H AHI ALY • rngr VALLEYJAMMU &THEKASHMIR ••Srinagar 10 (6km) Old City 8 Chowk Lal AC

13

Parbat Forest La Forest MA Link Rd Link MA Hari Fort

Sherwani Hari ParbatHill 11

MA Rd Rd Ganderbal Old City Lambert La 17

Rd 12 2 36 15 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 1 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈ Poloview 19 Market A4 A6 D5 B4 A4 A4 A3 A4 B5 A4 C1 B6 C5 B6 C5 B6 B6 21 34 Kashmir GovernmentArts B6 Houseboat OwnersAssociation.. Taxi Stand...... (see3) Taxi Stand...... Shiraz Travels...... Main TaxiStand...... Jet Airways...... Indian Airlines...... Bus Station...... Air Sahara...... (see36) Emporium...... (see23) Kashmir GovernmentArts Emporium...... Coffea Arabica...... Shamyana Restaurant...... Shahenshah Hotel...... (see33) Mughal Darbar...... (see34) Restaurant...... Café deLintz...... Hotel Swiss...... Hotel Rachna...... Hotel Paradise...... Hotel GrandMumtaz...... (see22) Hotel Broadway...... Grand Hotel...... Dhum Hotel...... Adhoo's Hotel...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING DRINKING EATING SLEEPING 22 4 B 30

Reside Dal Gate 27 Nagin

Lake Jhelum ncy 35 26

9

Bund

Rd Residency Rd Residency ὈὈ ὈὈ 31 6 32 20 5 33 Bridge 37 Zero River Hazarat 29 bal 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 Rd 21 20 19 23 C5 B6 B5 B6 C5 B5 B6 B5 C5 C5 B6 D4 D5 C5 B5 B6 B5 B6 Houseboats 3 Old Gagribal Rd

28 Boulevard Floating Garden ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ Dal Lake Floating Garden 7

Pack Track

Gupkar Floating Garden 0.4miles 600m 0 0 Shankaracharya

Rd 24 Hill Dal Lake Nehru Park 16 25 Kargil (205km);Leh(435km) (3km); NishatBagh(4km); Mahal &Cheshmashahi lonelyplanet.com Shalimar Bagh(5km); To RoyalSpringsGolf To Pahalgam(92km); To Pampore(16km); Awantipura (25km); Gardens (2km);Pari Course &Botanical Jammu (302km); D Delhi (896km) Floating Garden Floating Garden JAMMU & KASHMIR

, 355 looks khatamband 7am-6pm Sat-Thu) h (Khanyar Chowk area)

was built using the same was constructed by Sultan was constructed shrine

(admission Rs 5; ()

(Khanyar Chowk area)

Down on the lakeshore are the sprawling the sprawling are lakeshore Down on the Visitors are welcome at most of the the welcome at most of are Visitors papier-mâché palms. Men and women are and women are palms. Men papier-mâché with pictures take can welcome and visitors permission from the attendants. Naqshband Sahib beautifully proportioned 17th-century This shrine Sikander in 1394, but the current building dates Sikander in 1394, but the current style, Kashmiri from 1672. Built in the classic the masjid has room for 33,000 devotees. The each were 378 columns that support the roof a single deodar tree, made from the trunk of and monumental mark the brick gatehouses welcome are Visitors four cardinal directions. but the mosque attendants, of at the discretion prohibited. bags and cameras are Sahib Dastgir Pir Dominating a busy junction in the old city, this grand Sufi The than a mosque. a civic building like more hides a glori- exterior and green graceful white scrollwork, full of interior ous papier-mâché by Arabic script and floral motifs, supported are covered in papier-mâché or in papier-mâché covered are in Srinagar, but always mosques and shrines a rule, As entering. your shoes before remove you can visit these places anytime from sun- rise to sunset, except during Friday prayers; before ask permission however, you should taking any photos inside. and before entering a dedicated that most mosques have Note local your head if entrance for women (cover women do the same). Jama Masjid the mighty worship, Srinagar’s principal place of Jama Masjid rosebushes and water features, backing onto backing features, rosebushes and water Mughala handsome pavilion. Botanical Gardens venue and promenade snoozing a favourite for local families. MAUSOLEUMS MOSQUES & is unique architecture style of The Kashmiri mosques are in the Islamic world. Kashmiri by cov- ringed buildings, handsome, square by an elegant cen- balconies and topped ered seen. Instead, rarely are Minarets tral spire. the mosque – walls of the focus is on the inside in vivid geo- (wood panelling) and painted metric and floral patterns. mar-

(admis- 7am-6pm h (admission Rs 5; (admission Rs 5; (admission Rs 5;

Pari Mahal (gondola-like (gondola-like offers more topiary, topiary, more offers shikara (admission Rs 5;

trees, startingright trees, on the looks more like a fort than like looks more was built for Nur Jahan by was built for Nur Jahan Shalimar Bagh Cheshmashahi •• Srinagar JAMMU & THE KASHMIR VALLEY chinar Nishat Bagh can be hired from boat stations from boat can be hired dawn-dusk) h is a broad cascade of terraces lined lined terraces is a broad cascade of 7.30am-6.30pm Fri-Wed) 7am-6pm Wed-Mon) . It’s a colourful spectacle, but expect plenty BUSINESS HOURS HOURS BUSINESS but normal business hours Srinagar follows sev- and offices shut for most shops, banks on Friday for Muslim eral hours at lunchtime get it business, urgent If you have prayers. Although just to be safe. done on Thursday, is no official curfew, Srinagar is eerily there able on being 8pm. Don’t rely silent after to find a rickshaw or hours. taxi boat) after High above the lakeshore, the lakeshore, High above Nearby, Just downhill, The delightful Note that detours to commission-paying that detours Note Shikaras views down over the city. views down over sion free; sion free; divided are terraces a garden. The flower-filled sweeping by tall offering masonry arches, with mighty and climbing to an elegant mock lakeshore façade. Thu-Tue) and cooled by artificial streams and Mughal and cooled by artificial streams pavilions. the zenith of Mughal horticulture, the gardens Mughal horticulture, the zenith of by trees gracefully up the hillside, shaded step h Regarded by many as her husband Jehangir. east around Dal Lake; taxis charge Rs 600 for east around Dal Lake; taxis charge a tour visiting all the gardens. gardens are strung out along the road running gardens are Srinagar is a city of gardens, many dating back gardens, many Srinagar is a city of Rs 600 for a charge to the Mughal Taxis era. tour visiting all the following gardens. These PARKS & GARDENS & GARDENS PARKS don’t want to spend half your day being bom- barded with trinkets. souvenir shops are routine – be firm if you shops are souvenir displayed on noticeboards. A shuttle from from A shuttle displayed on noticeboards. the boulevard to your houseboat will cost Rs paddling around the 10 to 15, while an hour will cost Rs 100, either on shore backwaters or at your houseboat. of attention from souvenir vendors. vendors. souvenir from attention of are and official rates all along the lakeshore ket for tours around the lake, visiting floating gar- visiting floating around the lake, for tours and vegetable dens and the floating flower lonelyplanet.com h JAMMU & KASHMIR Prophet Mohammed. –enshrining ahairofits peaceful purpose the police inthe1990s. Todayithasreturned to andIndian armedmilitants between standoff modern On the lakeshore northof theOldCity,this Hazratbal Mosque cemetery behindesting medieval theshrine. Sikander.stroyed bySultan There’s aninter- built over the ruinsof aHindutemple de- place of thefavourite wife of Sikander, Sultan mausoleum Kadal andtheriver,Zaina thisunusualbrick Hidden away in thebazaarstreets between Tomb oftheMotherZain-ul-Abidin walls ofthe base thehillare theremains of the Fort The hillistoppedbytheimposing built byShah Jahan’s sonDaraShikoh in1649. passing theruinedmosqueof up totheshrineanddescendstowardsDalLake, Islam inKashmir. of Aflight stonesteps climbs cated whohelpedthespread to aSufisaint of homage atthevast lake demonJalodabhava, whileMuslims pay the islandwhere Sharika (Durga) defeated the thattowering Hindus believe &MakhdoomSahib by Jehangir’s wife NurJahan in1623. area) of theriver, thepeaceful Facing Shah-i-Hamadan ontheopposite side Pathar Masjid the doorbutonlyMuslimsmayenter. reliefs. Visitors are through welcome topeek andpapier-mâchéin elaborate woodcarvings 1730s. Thefrontage andinterior are covered times andthecurrent incarnationdates tothe hall)hasburnttothegroundseveral meeting Ali Hamadni. the However, founded in1395bythePersian MirSayed saint ofShah-i-Hamadan Khanqah The first builtinKashmir, mosqueever the ofShah-i-Hamadan Khanqah wood-panelled quakes. Ask the theattendants ifyoucansee wood andstonetodissipate theforceof earth- Himachal Pradesh,withalternating layers of technique asthetowertemples andpalaces of 356 , now occupied by the Indian Army. Around , nowoccupiedbytheIndianArmy.Around is amore conventional stonemosquebuilt , builtbyAkbar inthe1590s. AM H AHI ALY • rngr VALLEYJAMMU &THEKASHMIR ••Srinagar mosque (Zaina Kadal area) (Zaina Kadal

was the setting fora notorious wasthesetting khatamband Makhdoom Sahib Sahib Makhdoom marks thefinalresting Pathar Masjid Pathar Masjid (Khawaja Bazararea) (Khawaja khanqah ceiling. Hari Parbat Hari Akhund Mulla Shah Mulla Akhund shrine, dedi- Hari Parbat Parbat Hari (Zaina Kadal (Zaina Kadal (Muslim

hill old city old city was was was , Indian/foreigner Rs10/50; and clubhire isaroundRs200,pluscaddy eral upmarket golfclubs;green fees are Rs200 Recalling Srinagar’s British past,there are sev- GOLF Activities end of inabout halfanhour. theboulevard from townoryoucanhike upfromthewest rickshaws charge Rs300forthereturn trip Kashmir years. byathousand Taxis andauto- Mandir mon) istoppedbythetinystone known asTakht-i-Sulaiman orThroneof Solo- thishill(also Rising behind theboulevard, Chowk market. bridge atthesouthendof inLal Forest Lane passport toenter. Toget here, take thefoot- like theydiedof fright. animalslook thestuffed though tory section, embroidery. There’s alsoalarge naturalhis- weaponry, traditionalcostumes,carpetsand musicalinstruments, and Buddhistcarvings, papier-mâchéMughal andbronzes,Hindu raja. includeminiature Highlights paintings, out intheformersummerpalaceof themaha- This fabulous SRI PRATAP SINGHMUSEUM attraction. dation areoptions, buthouseboats themain Srinagar hasarange of land-based accommo- Sleeping City. dens, theShankaracharya temple andtheOld Gar-a full-daytour,includingtheMughal tours. sightseeing topayRs1000 for Expect inSrinagarcanarrangeAny of stands thetaxi Tours the lake. here Get by rooms forbathers andwater-skiing around up nearNehru Park offering private changing waters of DalLake. Swimming barges are set plungesIn summer,everyone intothecool SWIMMING Gardens. near theBotanical ( Rd; fees. Try the way. % Photos are prohibited your andyouneed h 2482582; Lakeshore; 2482582; Lakeshore; 6.30am-9pm) , which predates thearrivalof Islamin Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Kashmir GolfClub Kashmir museum or the h h

shikara ( 10am-4pm Tue-Sun) Royal Springs GolfCourse Royal Springs % 7.30am-6.30pm Wed-Mon) 2312859; Lal Mandi area; 2312859; LalMandi forRs40each ( % Shankaracharya Shankaracharya 2476677; MA islaid

JAMMU & KASHMIR 357 lifts from boat to shore lifts from boat to shore shikara – an unavoidable irritation. – an unavoidable The majority of Srinagar’s houseboats bob of The majority When choosing a houseboat, make sure sure a houseboat, make When choosing boats to see what is on offer. Touts will try Touts will to seeboats is on offer. what Some hotels in Srinagar are permanently permanently are in Srinagar Some hotels occupied by the army – look for and avoid All the follow- places wrapped in barbed wire. TVs have ing hotels bathrooms and private houseboats that offer a choice of meals rather of a choice houseboats that offer Most and rice. dhal daily portions of than three to cover an extra Rs 300 in winter boats charge you stay, heating oil. Wherever the costs of in sellers visits from souvenir expect frequent shikaras the on Dal Lake, lined up in front of gently cheap boats more north are boulevard. There Alternatively, on Nagin Lake. the old town of boats moored the many you can stayof on one established – the on the banks of pro- in colonial times when the British were a have from owning land – which hibited to shore. boardwalk directly HOTELS to steer a commission-paying you towards the best or friendliest rarely boat, but these are places to stay. Under no circumstances should you book a houseboat a travel in advance with let- regular We receive Kashmir. outside agent been scammed who have from travellers ters by unscrupulous dollars of for hundreds . below text, see – operators the boxed Meals, getting. are you know exactly what you and hot water If not, you may price. should be included in the Look for later. end up paying a hefty surcharge trips to /fax 2450326; •• Srinagar & THE KASHMIR JAMMU VALLEY %

( shikara can make bookings, but bookings, can make 8am-6pm) h The houseboats of Dal Lake Dal a houseboats offer of The for an hour and visit several house- Most of the complaints relate to package tours booked in Delhi. Travellers frequently arrive to to arrive to package frequently tours booked in Delhi. Travellers Most of the complaints relate in Srinagar and inspect you arrive after To avoid this criminal behaviour, book your houseboat and the staying you’re ) know where above ( It pays to let the Houseboat Owners Association Houseboat Owners Association Houseboat Owners Association For many visitors to Srinagar, a stay on a houseboat is a charming experience. For others it For others it is a charming experience. For many visitors to Srinagar, a stay on a houseboat a lot perfectly honest, we receive While most houseboat owners are is a waking nightmare. been held as virtual who have by hostages on houseboats from travellers of correspondence unscrupulous operators. amounting to and hidden charges barge, find that the floating palace they booked is a creaky been held hostage, either been added to their bill. Others literally of dollars have have hundreds confiscation of their or through the physical through spurious claims about violence onshore from houseboat staff. advances inappropriate also reported passports. Single women have promised, everything covers that the fee to stay. Make sure you agree the boat thoroughly before (get this in writing) and makethat you do not want unsolicited it clear including meals and transfers Keep your passport you at all times. and other valuables with vendors. visits from souvenir proposed duration of your stay. Although run by houseboat owners, they may be able to arbitrate fees. over in any subsequent disputes HOUSEBOAT HASSLES HASSLES HOUSEBOAT Standards of houseboats vary – some are houseboatsStandards – some are vary of Deluxe 2000 Deluxe A category 1000 B category C category 1200 D category 800 700 400 600 400 350 200 person (Rs) Category person board per Full Lodging only (Rs) there are 1400 boats to choose By far from. are there a the best way to find a houseboat is to rent shikara The Residency Rd; shore and around the lake. and around the lake. shore but prices vary hugely and massive discounts massive and but prices vary hugely At the time of (up to 70%) can be negotiated. as follows: were rates the advertised research five classes and rates are set by the government, set by the government, classes are and rates five damp and gloomy, others are palatial – and are damp and gloomy, others from the luxury is not always clear the level of Officially, divided intoprice. houseboats are boats are run by individual families, who pro- boats are meals and vide home-cooked Interiors fall somewhere between Mughal fall somewhere Interiors Most house- chintz. English splendour and bedrooms, lounges, kitchens, staff kitchens, lounges, bedrooms, quarters the out over leaning verandas and gorgeous with carved decorated water, walnut panels. window back in time. These flat-bottomed These in time. window back flat-bottomed villas, with basically floating are pine barges HOUSEBOATS HOUSEBOATS o Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book JAMMU & KASHMIR shower Rs450-850) Residency Rd;s/dfromRs1400/1600; Residency old town and the boulevard, this is the best isthe this boulevard, old townandthe curry) is a veritable feast. room. The house dining comfortable foodinabright, Chinese uptop-notch and Mughlai Shamyana serves 170; naan. stuffed (chicken in aclearspicygravy) andfruit- Kashmiri dishes, including agood range ofcheerful restaurant serves h chargetaurants on thebill. 8%tax lamb skewers) andgrilledlake fish.Mostres- shashlik serving dotted withstands and aroundDal Gate, whiletheoldtownis boulevard snackbars)alongthe (vegetarian There are dozensof cheap Eating coffee shopsandheated swimmingpools. offer sumptuousrooms,elegantrestaurants, s/dRs4500/5500; [email protected]; ( garden-facing roomsare quieter andcosier. with balconiesfacingthegardenorlake. The Paradise the levard, hashuge,well-litrooms bou- backfromthe aroundahuge lawn,set Set fully dated rooms,somewithriver views. Residency Rd.Inside,you’llfindhuge, cheer- coloured blockishiddenawayinacourtyardoff Kashmiri food. excellent winter chill andtherestaurant serves heatingkeeps outthe thick carpets.Central Grand offers smallbutwell-loved roomswith 1000/1200; (snack bar)downstairs. are dullbutcleanandthere’s agood land-based budget accommodation.Rooms spotless bathrooms. management andalarge choice of roomswith Gagribal Rd,thiswell-runhotel hasfriendly net.in; s/dRs450/550) you check in. with hotwater. Ask aboutdiscountswhen 358 as % o Darbar Mughal Next toeach otheronMARd, Paradise Hotel Grand Hotel Swiss Hotel Adhoo’s Hotel Dhum Hotel 10am-10pm) h 2459001; www.hotelbroadway.com;s/dRs3500/4500; AM H AHI ALY • rngr VALLEYJAMMU &THEKASHMIR ••Srinagar ) 11am-11pm) and a Shamyana Restaurant Hotel Grand Mumtaz GrandMumtaz Hotel )

Close tothePoloGround,this Close ( Asolidmidrange choice, the %

(

Conveniently located forthe % ( ( % % Set back from the boulevard, boulevard, backfromthe Set Behind the boulevard onOld boulevard the Behind

2472766; swisshotelkashmir@sanchar- rogon josh (Residency Rd;dishesRs50-120; (Residency 2476583; Residency Rd;s/sfromRs 2476583; Residency 2472593; [email protected]; 2472593; [email protected]; 2450779; Blvd;rRs1800-2200;

( % 2450779; Dal Gate; rwithhot 2450779; DalGate; murg mirch korma a (lamb and tomato vaishno dhabas

(Blvd; dishesRs60- ( ) % Thismyrtle- Hotel Broadway Hotel 243184; hotel

as (grilled dhaba a ) )

saffron, driedfruitandnuts. saffron, posite cricket Chowksell bats, . Shops inLal theboxedshawls, andcarpets–see text, op- of thevalley,asare cashmere andpashmina walnutwoodisanotherspeciality Carved ier papier-mâché items like lampsandvases. cheap souvenirs, andlight orthere are bulk- boxes andChristmas-tree decorationsmake overbearing. Elegantlypainted papier-mâché is unparalleled, butthepressure tobuycanbe The range of Kashmiri souvenirs inSrinagar Shopping Ritchie andtheBackstreet Boys. presso favourites toasoundtrackof Lionel allyoures- A moderncoffee shopserving on MARd. Hotel Broadway ortheKashmir GolfClub inthebarat be abletosneakacoldbeer short supply.Ifyoudress yourbest,youmay Srinagar isaMuslimtownsoalcohol isin Drinking tery oryoucaneatoutinthewalledgarden. dining roomisstyledafter aBuddhistmonas- chicken.lings), noodlesoupsandChinese The A localfavourite for standards. and Chinese alltheusualIndian Residency Rd,serving 8.30pm) Airways Tuesday. There are for alsotown offices Mon-Sat) ( or Jammu (US$86, 35minutes). Srinagar andDelhi(fromUS$88,1¼ hours) Half adozen airlinesoffer between dailyflights AIR Getting There&Away building. in thesame Hotel Paradise, butbeware of copycatstores There’s ahandy Rd; Emporium Arts Government souvenirssame withoutthehassleat with souvenir shops,butyoucanfindthe theboxed(see text, p1147 ). furriers doalively tradeinendangered species madefromanimalfur–local anything else % Coffea Arabica Lhasa Restaurant deLintz Café The boulevard and Lambert Lane are lined Lane andLambert The boulevard Resist theurge tobuyshahtoosh shawlsand h 2450247; Shahenshah Palace Hotel,Blvd; 2450247; Shahenshah 10am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) Adecentfill-upstoponthewayto flies to Leh (US$102, 45 minutes) on (US$102,45 minutes) fliestoLeh on ( % Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 2480801; Sherwani Rd)

(Residency Rd;dishesRs60-200; (Residency

(Hotel Broadway,MA Rd; branch (Blvd; dishesRs70-180;

momos (

% , allatfixed prices. (

% 2477466; Blvd) 2452783; off Residency 2452783; offResidency and (Tibetan dump- Indian Airlines Indian Airlines h h h Air Sahara Air Sahara 10am-4.45pm 10am-4.45pm nextto 9am-7pm) 10am-9pm) h Kashmir Kashmir noon- Jet

JAMMU & KASHMIR 359 Buses between run twice a month Srinagar busesPrivate valley leave around the delightfully rustic rugs made from pressed from pressed delightfully rustic rugs made Gulmarg 1200 (return) Gulmarg 1200 (return) Jammu 2900 (return) Kargil3800 8000 Leh Pahalgam 2000 Sonamarg 1800 Destination Fare (Rs) Destination Fare SHARE JEEPS JEEPS SHARE Jammu way to reach The easiest and safest jeep from the taxi stand is by share or Kargil (Rs to Jammu Jeeps the tourist office. opposite between jeeps 6am and 11am; 300 to 400) leave from 7am. Infre- (Rs 500 to 550) leave to Kargil quent jeeps to Leh cost Rs 1000 (18 hours). TAXI to explore way By far the easiest and safest taxi. There is by chartered Valley the Kashmir all the city, unionised taxiare stands all over and destinations Fares rates. fixed charging include the following: gar leave from the chaotic Western Bus Stand Western from the chaotic gar leave Lalin Batmaloo, of 1½km west Chowk. and Muzafarrabad in Pakistani-administered is only open to Indian but this route Kashmir, citizens. and Pakistani sev- are Bus Stand.from the Western There (Rs 40, three eral daily buses to Sonamarg For (Rs 42, two hours). and Pahalgam hours) (Rs 70, two at Tangmarg change Gulmarg, hours). (floor rugs) in wool or silk cost a fraction of the cost a fraction (floor rugs) in wool or silk of the namdas, can J&KTDC gabbas 245 5221; Lambert Lane) that are open for similar that are % ( •• Srinagar JAMMU & THE KASHMIR VALLEY leave from a stand next to the from a stand next to the leave Shiraz Travels If you can’t stretch to a knotted Kashmiri carpet, consider some of the other floor coverings Kashmiri to a knotted carpet, consider some of the other floor coverings If you can’t stretch . p1145 text, see the boxed produced using child labour; are Be warned that some carpets 2455107) 2106750; Lambert Lane) available in the valley. Chain-stitched available in the valley. Chain-stitched KNOW YOUR CARPETS YOUR CARPETS KNOW need to choose but you patterns, rich sheen and intricate famous for their carpets are Kashmiri Most Kashmiri as quality can vary tremendously. knotted use designs from Iran, carpets carefully but they tend Silk carpets look luxurious of the two. or silk, or a combination by hand in wool choosing When thing. passed off as the real than wool and faketo be less durable is often silk over the carpet Turn and the range of colours. of detail in the design at the level a carpet, look Expect to pay packed be small and tightly the back – the knots should and look at together. for wool carpet and US$1000 3ft by 5ft (0.9m by 1.5m) for a good quality upwards of US$200 carpet in silk. a similar sized Also look out for carpets. price of knotted a you buy, consider the weight – Whatever with wool in flowing floral patterns. embroidered felt carpet weighs at least 5kg,3ft by 5ft (0.9m by 1.5m) a quarter of the standard airline baggage allowance. Deluxe government buses run by government Deluxe There’s a massive level of security at the level of a massive There’s in summer) (6.30am in 7.30am Delhi 2½ Gulmarg 160 12 Jammu 215 9am 890-990 10 Kargil 240/320 24 (ord/dlx) 8am Pahalgam120 2 Sonamarg 170 3 8.30am 8.30am 8am (Rs) (hr) Destination Fare Duration Departures (Rs) % % deluxe) A few private buses to Kargil and Srina- buses private to Kargil A few deluxe) continue to Leh after an overnight stop; the an overnight continue to Leh after is Rs 490/620 (ordinary/ Srinagar to Leh fare From May to late October, the Kargil buses October, the Kargil to late From May the following: ( ServicesTourist Reception Centre. include Militants have attacked buses attacked in the past, so Militants have by bus. travelling seek local advice before BUSES BUSES with the airline for specific restrictions on on with the airline for specific restrictions all the time. – thesecabin baggage change airport and foreigners must register on arrival. must register airport and foreigners in. Check to check hours Allow at least three airlines. trips to Amarnath. Look out for cheap web out for cheap trips to Amarnath. Look on Spicejet, Air Deccan and other budget fares ( hours. lonelyplanet.com book all domestic flights, as well as helicopter JAMMU & KASHMIR at Avantipura. There isamodern temple to Martand Ananatnag, the7th-century branches totheeast.About off 7kmfrom wards to are made. attheworkshopswherepeek thecricket bats offering andmostwillletyou batsforsale bats cricket nag isfamousfortheproduction of willow ticket.and visited onthesame smaller ples of SoutheastAsia. About 1kmwestisthe to , hassimilaritiestotheHindutem- (Indian/foreigner Rs5/100; 9th century.Thehuge ruined Hindutemples datingfromthe pigment). producethevividyellow (the flowerstamens are carpeted with vividvioletcrocusblooms Every October, thefieldsalong thehighway is thecentre of theIndian industry. saffron situationbeforesecurity youtravel. sible bychartered orlocalbus–check taxi the road toPahalgam, eastof Srinagar,allacces- There are interesting several detours alongthe AROUND SRINAGAR Srinagar willcostunderRs60. Anautorickshaw toanywherefor details. in DalLake, are bythelocalunion–see set p353 A totheairportcostsRs360. taxi Getting Around 360 At Avantipura About 16kmsoutheastof Srinagar, The area Avantipur between andAnanat- See p356 tours fortaxi of Srinagar. channel moneytomilitants. are victims stillwelcomebutbeaware thatmanyphoney charitieswereearthquake setupto morecommuter than200people. trainsinMumbai,killing Donationstocharitiessupporting militants detonated bombsattheHanumantemple andtrainstationinVaranasi andoncrowded the insurgency were quicklydashed.As thesnowsthawedaroundrefugee camps,Kashmiri to allowaidconvoyscross. However, hopesthatthisnewspiritofcooperationmightcalm and 2.5millionwere lefthomeless. for refugees. mostonthePakistan Intotal,80,000peoplewere killed, sideoftheLineControl, andsetupemergencyfrom asfarafieldBritainandtheUSAhelpingtolocate camps survivors A massive wasimmediately rescue launchedonbothsidesoftheborder,withrescue effort crews Richter Scale, destroyingthousandsofhomesandburyingwholevillagesunderdeadlylandslides. Valley measuring7.6onthe 2005,theKashmir On 8October wasstruckbyamassive earthquake THE KASHMIRI EARTHQUAKE AM H AHI ALY • rudSiaa VALLEYJAMMU &THEKASHMIR ••AroundSrinagar Aid floodedinfromaroundtheworldandIndiaPakistan openedtheLineofControl Ananatnag followsa similarplantothe temples Awantsvara Temple Jammu ; theroadsideisdotted withstalls , 25kmfromSrinagar,hastwo , themainroadturnssouth , whiletheroadto h dawn-dusk) Awantiswarmi Temple , dedicated toShiva Surya Temple , dedicated Shikara Pahalgam Pampore rates at

Kashmir’s nationaltree. % GULMARG and theroadisflanked bytowering spring snowmelt.Jagged ahead rise mountains which becomesaragingtorrent withthe ters thegorgeous valleyof the Verinag the nearbyvillages of from thetimeof Shah Jahan in canbe seen a holyspringfullof teemingfish. some foreign cards. & Kashmir ATM Bank takes atthe busstand on skiingandlocal attractions.TheJammu tre the Gondola. hotels are and thebusstand linedupbetween cable carandthegolfcourse. Allthecheap theGondola road thatconnectsthebusstand, The meadowatGulmarg isringed byalong Orientation &Information season. ski that doublesasatrainingslopeduringthe of themeadowisgiven over toa golf course with domestictouristsyear-round andmost don’t expectaquietretreat. Gulmarg ispacked cover thebottomof theKashmir Valley, but contrast totheflat,poplar-lined fieldsthat summer. TheAlpinelandscapeisamarked in winter andapopularwalkingresort in ‘Meadow of Flowers’ –isabusyskiresort pine-fringed meadowat Gulmarg –literally About 52kmsouthwestof Srinagar,the Surya afew kilometres northat Heading northfromMattan, theroaden- At thegolfcourse, the

01954 /elev2730m ( % . 254487; h 9.30am-5pm) Achabal Tourist Reception Cen- Reception Tourist hasinformation lonelyplanet.com , Kokernag Lidder River Mattan Mattan Gardens Gardens chinars, and , with ,

JAMMU & KASHMIR

is 361 walks (per hr Rs

along the road 254430; s/d from Rs Rs 254430; s/d from Cyber Café (pilgrimage) from from (pilgrimage) Tourist Reception Cen- % ( to the same destinations dhabas yatra yatra 254445; hilltop_gulmarg@yahoo The best of the period the period The best of 24hr Apr-Oct, 10am-4pm Nov-Mar) % ( An upmarket option near the An upmarket at the bus stand offers slow at the bus stand offers

h pony treks restaurant and bar. and bar. restaurant 243224; 10am-6pm) pukkah % ( 01936 / elev 2130m h

All the hotels have restaurants and there and there restaurants have All the hotels Hotel Highlands Park Hotel Hilltop The most popular destination for short The most popular destination for short Pahalgam. the viewpoint at Baisarn, 5km above you can continue 2.5km to an even From here, viewpoint at Dhabyan, or walk 7km tobetter will at Tulyan. Pony owners lake the pretty in Pahal- pounce on you as soon as you arrive gam offering annual Amarnath the pil- ). Outside of p362 June to August (see season,grimage this is a fine spot for walking, or just enjoying the cool, clean pony trekking security the However, check mountain air. been visiting – pilgrims have situation before by militants. targeted repeatedly Information the On the main street, tre to pilgrims. mainly caters 50; access. internet Sights & Activities are several pure-veg several pure-veg are between the bus stand and Gondola. Getting There & Away taxi from Srinagar costs Rs 1200. SeeA return on buses. for information p359 PAHALGAM % Set in a magical valley beside the Lidder River, and snow- is framed by pine forests Pahalgam than a passing bear more peaks that covered similarity to the Rocky Mountains. This was but today most popular resort, once Kashmir’s limbo, empty for most of it exists in a state of during the visitors with the year, but deluged Kingsley is faded but comfy. Rooms have reli- have comfy. Rooms is faded but Kingsley faces right front lawn and the water able hot onto the meadow. this the green, the far side of properties on British-era a dozen over sprawls grand hotel open Rooms with on the hillside. cottages a and there’s charm colonial ooze fireplaces very .com; d from Rs 4000) place is toasty heated Gondola, this centrally for what you expensive warm, but rooms are a bar and restaurant. There’s get. 3000/4000, ste Rs 5000) 3000/4000, ste

St Gon- golf course Babu Reshi claims to This in- ice-skating Rani temple Rani 254447; s/d Rs •• Pahalgam & THE KASHMIR JAMMU VALLEY % (

around the meadow 254415; s/d from Rs 800/1440) 254505; r from Rs 800) % Pony rides (

% ( (return ticket(return 1st/2nd stage Rs 200/700; to now abandoned in the middle now abandoned in the whisks travellers from the from the whisks travellers on the meadow. Sledge pullers charge charge pullers on the meadow. Sledge Cheap by Gulmarg standards, this Cheap by Gulmarg , a few kilometres below Gulmarg. below Gulmarg. kilometres , a few resort, with runs to suit all levels. There with runs to suit all levels. There resort,

Cable Car

254487; nine holes Rs 100, club hire Rs 100) 254487; nine holes Rs 100, club hire 10am-4pm) Sahara Hotel Hotel & Restaurant Yamberzal The large and well-maintained The large Other wintery activities include activities include Other wintery

Hotel Kingsley As well as building the golf course, well as building the Brit- As % Right next to the bus stand, the wood-shingled identical to Hotel Yamberzal. Yamberzal. identical to Hotel congruously named hotel next door is almost congruously named hotel simple place has plain rooms with hot show- overlooking and carpets, and a restaurant ers the meadow. 600/1200)

Sleeping & Eating Sleeping & Eating the peak sum- for discounts outside of Ask mer season (June to August) and ski season (December to April). ( sledging Rs 130 per hour. cost Rs 120 per hour. and into the forest on the open-air rink by the Hilltop Hotel and on the open-air rink by the Hilltop Hotel utes every hour. The Gondola provides ac- The Gondola provides every hour. utes to some dramatic high-altitudecess powder. The ski season from 15 December to 15 runs from April, and skis and boots can be hired Alpine ski or the Kashmir the tourist office Expect to Highlandsshop near Hotel Park. pay Rs 300 for equipment and Rs 30 for a ski pass for the day. skiing lift, but several drag lifts and one chair are to 15 min- electricity is sometimes restricted In winter, Gulmarg becomes India’s premier India’s premier becomes Gulmarg In winter, Shrine Activities attracts Hindu worshippers, while Muslims attracts Hindu worshippers, at the tin-roofed pay their respects Mary’s Church Nearby, the wooden the green. of ish were responsible for the 150-year-old the 150-year-old for responsible ish were passing the turf-roofed the houses winter of nomadic Gujar people. to Gulmarg through the forest in a few hours, hours, a few in through the forest to Gulmarg meadow to the heights of Afarwat mountain. heightsmeadow to the of the second runs to 3930m and stage The first The views to a giddy 4390m. continues stage back down outstanding and you can hike are dola h Sights Sights bus stand, the the of 1km west About Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book be the highest in the world. JAMMU & KASHMIR h har Institute of Mountaineering and Winter Sports Sports andWinter ofMountaineering har Institute lightful. Each hasakitchen, twobedrooms, a Each lightful. so-so, butthecottages inthe gardenare de- dhabas All thehotels have restaurants andthere are Eating a swingandbalcony overlooking theLidder. bathroom withhotshower, andagardenwith 7000) herestay year-round. and toastywood-burning stoves, andyoucan next totheLidder. Roomshave thickcarpets buildingsinagorgeousRaj-era gardenright Hotel Pahalgam isspread over wooden several .com; s/dRs4000/5500) perfectly.pine setting pine, justabove ItfitstheAl- thebusstand. ling newplacefullof marbleand polished quaint village of Laripura. is1kmnorthofguesthouse Pahalgam inthe ing Muslimfamily,thishomy,wood-panelled room fromRs200/800,cottage1500) offeringstand, bare roomswithbathrooms. a dozenno-frills pilgrimhotels bythebus from ApriltoNovember. thefollowinghotels stated, areerwise open most shutdownforthewinter. Unlessoth- Pahalgam hasdozensof pilgrimhotels, but Sleeping outdoors.com) Excursions Highland ing ontheLiddercanbearranged through option. Glacier andTarsar Marsar isapopular Lake per day–thefour-day trek totheKolahoi Custom-made treks costRs150perperson ber) and ski courses (January toFebruary). andtrekkingeering courses (ApriltoNovem- ( wara river, thewoodentown Mamleshwar Temple 100 to300,dependingonthedistance. for Rs300to500.Inwinter, sledge ridescostRs 362 % About 1kmsouthof thecentre, the 8am-7pm) Hotel Nataraj Hotel Pahalgam Hotel TulyanHotel NewIndia Hotel white-waterFrom ApriltoSeptember, raft- Other attractionsincludethe11th-century Brown Palace 243129; Roomsatthismidrange hotel are only andtheflower-filled AM H AHI ALY • mrah VALLEYJAMMU &THEKASHMIR ••Amarnath andbakeries nearthebusstand. h ontheroadtoAru. . 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) ( %

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( % %

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% 243096; s/dRs1500/2000) ( 243225; dRs2400,cottages5500- ( % 243255; r with shared/private bath- 243255; rwithshared/private The bestchoice intown, % on thewestbankof the 243365; dRs300) 243252; www.pahalgamhotel 01942488061; www.highland mosque Club Park offers mountain- Runbyacharm- , a Sikh , aSikh Oneof half

(entry Rs5; Aspark Jawa- gurd- spectacular spectacular ponies for daytripstobeauty spotslike the Amarnath. Thisisoneof themostimportant day, 36kmtrek fromthetownof Chandan- The cave atAmarnathisreached byathree- so check thingsoutcarefully before visiting. targeted onnumerousoccasions, bymilitants pilgrimage sites inIndia,butpilgrimshave been annual Every 500,000I year elev 13,800m AMARNATH to Ananatnag(Rs20,onehour)andchange. 42) leave three timesaday,ortake alocalbus toSrinagar(Rs tourists.Private buses enough 12 to14hours) at8am,butonlyifthere are 120, twohours) at4pmandJammu (Rs250, Government leave buses forSrinagar(Rs Getting There&Away standards. Indianandcontinental ries andChinese, main road;asolidchoice forKashmiri cur- onionpakora.you cansay andIndianveg foodquickerChinese than tasty restaurant attheHotel Tulyanserves mugs of herbaltea. real espresso, hotchocolate andwarming cakes, gam, thislog-cabin coffee shopserves who do stay, who dostay, ifyoudon’tstop over.the bus,even Forthose Sonamarg, soyoucanenjoythesceneryfrom andKargilThe roadtoLeh through passes the townnowhasaheavy presence. military was onceapopulartrekking destination,but forested inasweeping, valley, Set Sonamarg % SONAMARG anquins co trek toAmarnath.PoniescostRs2650;pal- and makes arrangements forthethree-day Pahalgam toChandanwari runsshuttle buses presencethe military canbeoverpowering. peak duringtheShivrani Festival inJulyand with icefromMay toAugust.Pilgrimnumbers a naturalstonelingamthatbecomesencrusted dandy complete thejourneybypony,helicopter or wari, 16kmnorthof Pahalgam. Somepilgrims Hotel Paradise Hotel Nathu’s Rasoi Log Inn During 0194 /elev2740m (palanquin). yatra (snacks Rs20-60) yatra st Rs10,000. Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Thajiwas Glacier Thajiwas (pilgrimage) tothe J&KTDC (mains Rs40-100) season, the tourist office in thetouristoffice season, (mains Rs50-150) Inside the mainchamber is

( ndian touristsmake the In frontof Hotel Pahal- % 2417208) , 4kmabove town. The fast-food Right ontheRight canarrange ice lingam at at JAMMU & KASHMIR 363 10am- h was con- 8am-8pm) 10am-4pm) and dozens and dozens h Raghunath Man- (temple towers) towers) (temple h was constructed was constructed (Shalimar Rd; sikhara (ammonite fossils) fossils) (ammonite can change major cur- major can change shikharas (temples). Founded in Founded (temples). 6-11.30am & 6-9.30pm) 2548172/2544527; saligrams h % ( 2549065; www.jktdc.org; % ( Jammu & Kashmir Bank 0191 / pop 2,718,113 0191 / (Residency Rd; Close to the main bazaar, Crowning the hill on the south bank of Crowning the hill on the south bank of Makes bookings for J&KTDC hotels statewide. of shrines to different incarnations of Vishnu. incarnations of different shrines to of around the main shrine contain Pavilions thousands of the Hindu the myriad of representing pantheon. the River, the Tawi J&K Tourism J&KTDC SIGHTS you may needFor security to leave reasons, phone with your bag, camera and mobile the fol- security guards when visiting any of lowing places. Jammu sprawls along the banks of the Tawi the Tawi banks of sprawls along the Jammu on the station The train and airport are River. bus stand while the and the river, south side of the on the north bank. Most of old town are near the bus are and restaurants hotels cheap Chowk or Vinaik Bazaar. stand on Jewel INFORMATION Money The The cheques. in cash and travellers rencies is at the HFDC Bank by ATM most reliable the bus stand. Information Tourist on The Tourist Reception Centre is located Residency Rd. dir Jammu Jammu % the is Jammu Gardens, the City of If Srinagar is Kashmir capital The winter of Temples. City of Hindu is awash with and Sikh the Dogra Rajas,1730 as the capital Jammu of and and railhead for Kashmir, is the main bus the journey from to break place an interesting the city is Unfortunately, Delhi to Srinagar. sure – make for extremists target also a major you come. calm before things are ORIENTATION Provides information on the whole of Kashmir. There’s a There’s Provides information on the whole of Kashmir. booth at the train station. 4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm Sat) structed by Maharaja , founder by Maharaja structed and Kashmir. Jammu state the princely of of a gilded has temple The , Hotel at the foot at the foot 2417208; dm Rs 2417208; on the Ladakh % (

or the superior or the superior Baltal Camp Gumry Camp 2417215; r with bathroom Rs 1200) 2417215; r with to Kargil •• Sonamarg & THE KASHMIR JAMMU VALLEY % (

– allegedly the coldest inhabited the coldest inhabited – allegedly J&KTDC Tourist Huts

Drass

From Gumry, it’s 37km to the bleak out-

Beyond La, the Zoji the landscape is barren Even when things are safe, this is not a a this is not safe, when things are Even Government buses from Srinagar to Kargil buses to Kargil from Srinagar Government For accommodation and meals, try the try the and meals, For accommodation train stations are favourite targets – investigate – investigate targets favourite train stations are you the security situation thoroughly before decide to visit. Hindu and Sikh, but the region sees Hindu and Sikh, but the region regular attacks from Muslim militants who slip across Tourist sights and the border from Pakistan. SOUTHERN KASHMIR SOUTHERN KASHMIR is mainly southern Kashmir The population of Zanskar and Ladakh. roadside. From Drass, the road stretches an- road stretches From Drass, the roadside. to Buddhist the gateway other 56km to Kargil, Although most villagers are Muslim, there Muslim, there are Although most villagers some ancient Buddhist carvings are on the place on earth after Oymyakon in Siberia. Oymyakon in Siberia. place on earth after and eerily silent after the birdsong-filled hills and eerily birdsong-filled the silent after at the must register Foreigners Kashmir. of similarly gloomy If you arrive at the wrong time, you’ll have wrong time, you’ll have at the If you arrive to wait in the gloomy from June to October and the pass is only and the pass is only from June to October traffic in the afternoon. open to Kargil-bound in by a saw edge of mountain peaks. Travel mountain peaks. Travel of in by a saw edge is only possible Kargil to from Sonamarg the pass. of the pass. side of post at barely wide enough for a single vehicle and it and it wide enough for a single vehicle barely drops, wedged precarious clings to the side of journey for the fainthearted. The road is The road is journey for the fainthearted.

through increasingly rugged terrain as it as it terrain rugged through increasingly LaZoji – the pass 3529m the struggles over Ladakh. from that separates Kashmir Unfor- passes this route closetunately, to the Line on Control and the road has been shelled of calm be- several occasions. Check things are you visit. fore SONAMARG TO KARGIL SONAMARG TO KARGIL passes to Kargil The road from Son amarg on to Ladakh are often full by the time they full by on to Ladakh often are to to return you may have Sonamarg; reach a seat.Srinagar to get or Leh pass through Sonamarg (Rs 170, three (Rs 170, three throughor Leh pass Sonamarg bus from a private can take or you hours), Bus Stand.Srinagar’s Western Buses heading 150, r Rs 400, 2-bed hut Rs 1800) 150, r Rs 400, 2-bed well-run well-run lonelyplanet.com Glacier Heights backing onto the forest. the forest. backing onto JAMMU & KASHMIR classic Mughal planoverlookingclassic Mughal theriver. A s/d with cold shower Rs 200/250, r with hot shower, TV &AC s/d withcoldshowerRs200/250,rhotshower, TV 990/1090) of It’sstyled after aFrench theDograRajas. a bedbefore catching amorningbus. andready rough placeisOKifyoujustneed hot showers andicyair-con. Come here forgood soundproofing, steamy and hotwater. of budget rooms,withtheoptionof air-con petition, theDiamondoffers agoodchoice Rs 300-400) Rs250-300) toOctober). (September season short supplyduringtheVaishno Devi hotels. Note thataccommodationcanbein theftisrife though inthecheaperbus station, Most of options are tothe thesleeping close SLEEPING charge Rs410forafour-hour trip. sightseeing Taxis andtouristoffice atthetrainstation TOURS Mandi Palace. a wingof thefadingbutfabulous Mubarak mer) admission free; miniatures. roomsandacollectionofstate portraitsand chateau theRajas’ andinsideyoucansee till 4.50pmApr-Sep) eigner Rs10/45,camera10; stately stone lingam. Mandir reshwar Mandir around town,includingthegaudy struction atthetopof thehill. huge, fish-shapedaquariumisundercon- Gardens droplets. insacred selves dry,showeringthedevout temple over tethered ,whoshake them- and Sundays. Pilgrims pourwater fromthe ofby devotees Kali, particularlyonTuesdays side, the inthe19thcentury.In- by theDograRajas 364 o JDA Hotel Nearby isthe About 5kmnortheastof thecentre, the thefortare thepeaceful Below Vardaan Hotel Vardaan Hotel There are more interesting temples dotted , displaying800miniature paintingsin JAMMU & THE KASHMIR VALLEY •• Southern Kashmir VALLEYJAMMU &THEKASHMIR ••SouthernKashmir near thefortandtowering Amar Mahal Palace Amar Mahal (admission Rs5; Asmarter optionnearthe busstand. Above Rd,this BC off thebusstand Head andshoulders above thecom- Bawey Wali Mata Mandir Bawey WaliMata Diamond Hotel

h ( % on Shalimar Rd,withitsgiant 10am-4pm Tue-Sun, 8am-1.30pminsum- was the last official residence wasthelastofficial ( % 2576825; BelowGumat;dmRs50,d Dogra Art Gallery Dogra Art 2573212; VinaikBazar;s/d fromRs h 9am-9pm)

( h % ( % 9-12.50am &2-5.50pm, 2577792; VinaikBazar; 2546783; Indian/for- , laidoutona isthronged

Bagh-e-Bahu ( % Har-ki-Paori 2678610; Ranbi- yatra

for otherairlines. with allmodcons. spaandelegantrooms a disco,anAyurvedic in town,witharevolving rooftop restaurant, Kashmiri souvenirs canbefoundhere. Rd; Residency Emporium Arts Government Kashmir SHOPPING menu. in town,withabroadandenticingIndian the KC ResidencyHotel isthebestsplurge h curries. meat kebabs, cooked andveg inatandoor) chicken,good tandoori coldbeers and chintzy 1980s-style barserves mains Rs50-160) (Rs 75/90veg/nonveg). chairs andgood-value curriesandthalis dosas, 11pm) wazwan tasty Kashmiri Muslimrestaurants serving cheapseveral vegetarian has The roadrunninguptothebusstand EATING dency Rd;s/dfromRs1900/2300) towns (inquire locally fortimes): hours). One busleaves dailyforthe following (Rs 97,sixhours) andPathankot (Rs 47,2½ toDelhi(Rs315,12hours), Amritsar services four hours). alsohasregular Thebus stand Katra (Rs110, (Rs25,twohours) andRansoo 5am to8am.There are alsoregular to buses (Rs 110to150,1012hours) hourly from Rd. WithinKashmir, leave buses forSrinagar isnorthofThe busstand theriver, justoff BC Bus Travel attheKChas anoffice ResidencyHotel. Saturday. (US$112,45minutes)Leh onThursday and Centre; Reception 35 minutes). Delhi (US$161,onehour)orSrinagar(US$86, Half Jammu adozen airlinesflybetween and Air THERE&AWAYGETTING Falak o FastfoodJewel’s Residency KC 12.30-11pm) A friendly snack house withplasticA friendlysnackhouse ( % ( (meatthalis). % 2574080; Jewel Chowk) 2574080; Jewel Paradise Bar & Restaurant Paradise Bar&Restaurant h Jet Jet Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com 2520770; Residency Rd;mainsfromRs200; 2520770; Residency Therevolving restaurant atop h 10am-7pm Mon-Sat) ( ( Nextdoor,thischeerfully Indian Airlines % % 10am-4.45pm Mon-Sat) (Jewel Chowk;Rs30-100; (Jewel 2520770; www.kcresidency.com; Resi- 2574312; Theposhestchoice seekh h vaishno dhabas handlesbookings ( The fullrange of % 10am-5pm Mon-Sat) kebabs (spicy 2456086; Tourist 2456086; Tourist alsofliesto ( (Jewel Chowk; (Jewel % h 2542946; 7.30am- and STC

JAMMU & KASHMIR 365 , with several hotels and forest walks. , with several and forest hotels By the 9th century, the Buddhist kings of By the 9th century, the Buddhist kings of Unlike the rest of Jammu and Kashmir, and Kashmir, Jammu of the rest Unlike From November to May, Ladakh to May, is almost From November About halfway between Jammu and Sri- between halfway Jammu About though the minority Brokpa tribe still follows though the minority Buddhism that preceded Bonism: the religion ). p388 text, (see the boxed in Tibet Ladakh had established a kingdom extending protected to Tibet, all the way from Kashmir with vast Buddhist gompas by forts and dotted electric power are flooding the region with flooding the region electric power are rainfall altering warming is money, and global farming cycles and La- threatening patterns, architecture. dakh’s traditional mud-brick Ladakh has seensince Inde- little violence Most Ladakhispendence. with Buddhist, are and Sunni Mus- Shia smaller communities of lims in Leh the valleys surrounding Zan- and skar and Kargil. History Ladakh’s nomadic earliest inhabitants were estab- but permanent settlementsherders, were lished along the Indus by Buddhist pilgrims in Tibet. from India to Mt Kailash travelling Buddhism soon became the dominant religion, mountain glaciers. This rugged region is home region rugged This mountain glaciers. Bud- the last undisturbed Tantric to one of from protected dhist populations on earth, Mughals rampaging colonial interference, the Cultural Revolution of and the ravages geography. by sheer force of cut off from the outside world. completely cross- involves here in summer, getting Even ing the highest mountain passes in the world, between flight that weaves or a hair-raising the peaks. Isolation has preserved an almost dictated by the changing life, medieval way of is coming to this seasons. However, change La.mountain Tourism and hydro- Shangri the village of Ransoo, of the village public bus accessible by from Jammu. stationhill at and pleasant green nagar is the Patnitop busesway. pass this All Srinagar–Jammu LADAKH Ladakh is bound by mountains and made rock and ice mountains. walls of Sheer up of Kashmir from Tibet, divide the Indus Valley habita- and human Pradesh, and Himachal greenery to narrow strips of tion is restricted that drain down from clinging to the rivers . Vaishno DeviVaishno (4034) at 3.35pm and the LADAKH •• History (4646) at 8.55pm. Fares are Rs are (4646) at 8.55pm. Fares Jammu Mail Mail Jammu

is visited by thousands of Hindu pilgrims Hindu by thousands of is visited About 110km northwest of Jammu, Jammu, of 110km northwest About The rail line is being extended all the way The rail line is being extended

Probably the most famous sightProbably close to Chamba 160 Chamba 145 Dalhousie Dehra Dun 7 115 Dharamsala 6 Haridwar295 Manali295 260 Shimla 300 12 5 12 12 11 Destination Fare (Rs) Duration (hr) Duration (Rs) Fare Destination Share Jeeps Jeeps Share ral stalagmite. The caves are a 3km walk from are The caves ral stalagmite. March. At the end of the kilometre-long cave cave the kilometre-long At the end of March. a natu- lingam, formed from Shiva is a revered Khori and in February Festival during the Shivaratri enshrines a revered image of Mata Vaishno Vaishno Mata of image enshrines a revered as the goddess incarnated Devi, representing usual, check Saraswati and Lakshmi.Kali, As you visit. before safe things are buses heading north to Katra, start of the the startbuses of heading north to Katra, complex. The temple to the temple 12km hike From September to October, thousands of From September thousands to October, of jeeps and pilgrims join the daily convoy of Jammu is the of of is the Hindu temple Jammu the security situation before venturing into venturing the security situation before the hills. There are loads of interesting sights in the hills interesting loads of are There is particularly area but this around Jammu, attacks. Be to check prone to insurgent sure Around Jammu Around Jammu town cost Rs 50 to 60. Stretch minivans shut- town cost Rs 50 to 60. Stretch tle between the bus station and train station for Rs 5 per head. A taxi to the airport costs Rs 150. 948/669/248/154 in 2A/3A/sleeper/2nd class. locally for updates. to Srinagar; check GETTING AROUND plentiful; journeys around Auto-rickshaws are Shalimar Mail Shalimar clude the Jammu Tawi is the main station in Jammu, but is the main station in Jammu, Tawi Jammu been have the security situation as there check services to Delhi in- attacks on trains. Useful Train Train stand from 4am to 8am. A charter taxi costs stand A charter from 4am to 8am. Rs 710 to Katra. Rs 3200 to Srinagar and Fast share jeeps Srinagar (Rs 300 to 400) to share Fast the bus from the highway in front of leave lonelyplanet.com JAMMU & KASHMIR winter (OctobertoMay) temperatures follow: buildings androadsacross theregion. increasing erosionbywindandrain,affecting fall patterns, and altering thegrowingseason asignificantshift inrain- warming hascaused the boxed text, opposite . Inrecent years, global of thelimited supplyof fuel.Formore tips,see water andheatingcostsextraathotels because gear. Runningwater isinshort supply,andhot many festivals. to spendtheirdaysmakingmerryatLadakh’s stacked andstoredbeen andpeopleare free ebration. Allthefoodandfuelforwinter has ters. of For locals,winter cel- istheseason and few touristsvisitforthedesolate win- arepasses onlyopenfromJulytoOctober themountain inLadakh; tourism season -20°C. Theextremes of coldcreate ashort and winter temperatures frequently dipbelow arebut rainfalllevels onparwiththeSahara for300daysayear, The sunshinesinLadakh Climate is likely toremain dream. adistant tourismindustry,autonomy ily fromLadakh’s but withthestate government profiting heav- Territory Fronthave leadthefieldatelections, Union Since then,candidates fromtheLadakh the creation of aUnionTerritory of Ladakh. wasformed in1996,lobbying for (LAHDC) CouncilAutonomous HillDevelopment to anti-Buddhist discrimination,theLadakh district of Jammu andKashmir. Inresponse of Jammu in1846. nexed intothekingdomof theDograRajas wasfinallyan- Ladakh atLeh. a newcapital Singge Namgyal(1570–1642),whoestablished butBuddhismbouncedbackunder Balistan, century, theprovince fell brieflytoAliMirof fromthewest.In16th invade Ladakh the major philosophyinthevalley. inthe14thcentury,anditsoonbecame khapa was introducedbytheTibetan pilgrimTsong- (RedHat)prominence, buttheGelukpa order (monasteries). for Different struggled 366 e -°t 0C -20°to13°C -17°to12°C -15°to15°C -3°to30°C 0°to38°C -3°to28°C Nubra Valley Leh Kargil Winter Summer Region If do you visit in winter, bring serious winterIf doyouvisitinwinter, bringserious ruledasasub- hasbeen Since then,Ladakh Average and toSeptember) summer(June Muslimarmiesbeganto Simultaneously, AAH • itr LADAKH ••History Thereafter, of alwaysconsider theeffects al- the first 24hours anddrinkplentyof water. AMS ( p1188 ). Avoid strenuous exertion for visitors mildsymptomsof invariablysuffer liesaboveMost of 3000mandfly-in Ladakh Dangers &Annoyances checkpoints, socarryhalfadozen copies. hand over copiesof thepermitatnumerous papers. You’llhave toshowyourpassportand groups of withtheproper lessthanfour,even pendently, butborderpolicehave turnedback apermitandtravelpossible toobtain inde- get aroundthiswithcreative paperwork.It’s a groupof agents four,though cansometimes daysandyou’refor seven required totravel in ofplus adailyvisitortax Rs20.Permits are valid mits inoneworkingdayforaroundRs100, agent Mostagents inLeh. canarrange theper- which atravel through canonlybeobtained Rupsu Valley, an youneed Inner LinePermit, To visittheNubraValley, andthe PERMITS Information greeting and ‘thankyou’–derived fromtheTibetan joo only learnoneword,make it andZanskar.main language of Ladakh Ifyou written intheTibetan script,isthe Ladakhi, Language ( p379 ( ) andTrekking inZanskar p391 ). For more Trekking information see inLadakh trekking high-altitude some fantastic routes. offer andZanskar From JulytoOctober, Ladakh TREKKING tors offering tripsupintothe mountains. aboundswithtouropera- door typesandLeh isanadventure playgroundforout- Ladakh Activities monoxide poisoning; see p1126 . lated of hotel roomsbecause theriskof carbon things are safe before youtravel; see p352 . shelledSrinagar hasbeen inthepast,socheck Kashmir, Kargil buttheroadbetween and theresttrouble thataffects of Jammu and equipped andacclimatised. take extracare –make sure youare properly larly over Trekkers passes. mountain should titude whenmakingsteepascents,particu- Leh and eastern Ladakh see noneof the see andeasternLeh Ladakh Avoid usingcharcoal heaters inunventi- -lay) – meaning ‘hello’, ‘goodbye’, ‘please’ -lay) –meaning‘hello’,‘goodbye’,‘please’ tashi-delek . lonelyplanet.com jule (pronounced JAMMU & KASHMIR 367 (Map p371 ; Main Bazar) Novels and p371 (Map (Map p371 ; Main Bazar) Good for p371 (Map 252018; Zangsti Rd) % ( The bus stand and post office are 1km 1km The bus stand and post office are the altitude – a breathless 3505m above sea 3505m above the altitude – a breathless See Medical Services emergencies. for health See Medical Police INTERNET ACCESS rea- cafés offering internet of Leh has dozens sonably fast connections for Rs 100 to 120 per common. However, power cuts are hour. Sankar. Sankar. Bazar, and the airport is 7km Main south of The road to southwest on the road to Kargil. and Khardung La runs uphill the Nubra Valley behind the Polo Ground. Information BOOKSHOPS with well stocked are The following bookshops maps and books on Ladakh and Zanskar. Ladakh Bookshop novels, guides and glossy picture books. Leh Ling Bookshop EMERGENCY level – and the modern town melts into a level melts into a – and the modern town timber and mud bricks. crumbling old city of military The Indian Army maintains a large base patrol the borders near the airport to job but their main with China and Pakistan, and keeping roads and bridges is repairing the mountain snow. passes of clear Orientation The main landmark in Leh Pal- is the Royal the crumbling alleyways of ace, overlooking the Old Town and the Polo Ground. Most southwest along are and restaurants hotels Bazar and Fort Rds, or northwest in Main vil- more are There Changspa. of the village and guesthouses further north in Karzoo lage a decent selection on Ladakh and Tibet. Adventure Peaks is one of several com- is one of LADAKH •• Leh Also carry a course of antibiotics (available in larger towns) and dehydration salts for stomach salts for stomach towns) and dehydration in larger of antibiotics (available Also carry a course

01982 / pop 28,100 / elev 3505m upsets, plasters for blistered feet, a chapstick and a tube of cold sore cream containing aciclovir – – containing aciclovir cream a tube of cold sore a chapstick and feet, for blistered upsets, plasters should bring a sleeping bag Campers particularlywind-chapped lips are vulnerable to cold sores. glare. to reduce filter and photographers should carry a polarising or four seasons, to three rated streets. for finding your way home along unlit village A good-quality torch is essential A MOUNTAIN TOOLKIT TOOLKIT A MOUNTAIN Warm, insulating clothing conditions. in harsh mountain considerations for travel special are There Bring risk because of the altitude. is an ever-present in summer, and sunburn is essential, even medical kit A mountain sunglasses. should as well as UV-proof and lip salve, a hat, sunscreen aid for retreating Sickness, but only as an Mountain Acute for symptoms of include paracetamol deadly condition. on this potentially more for p1188 – see to lower altitudes

The sky overhead is a vivid dark blue from is a vivid dark blue from The sky overhead how many other tourist towns back onto how many other tourist towns back onto the Himalaya? ruined palaces in the lee of the travel agencies, souvenir shops and pizza shops and pizza souvenir agencies, the travel you would expect to find in a bus- restaurants On the other hand, centre. tling backpacker % Leh is a tourist town, with all On one level, LEH LEH October. See & Away sec- the Getting There October. and Srinagar for details.tions for Leh, Manali Transport within the valley is mainly by local motorcycle. taxior rented bus, chartered from Srinagar to Leh from May to November, to November, from Srinagar to Leh from May to Leh from July to mid- and from Manali Leh receives year-round flights from Delhi, year-round Leh receives jeeps run Buses and share Srinagar and Jammu. Getting There & Around Getting There & Around most popular trip is the short but thrilling to Nimmu near Leh (Grade II run from Phey . p372 to III) – see From July to September, rafters and kayakers and kayakers September, rafters From July to the Indus and on water can enjoy epic white Zanskar Grades vary from I to III on Rivers. The the Indus and II to IV on the Zanskar. WHITE-WATER RAFTING & KAYAKING RAFTING & KAYAKING WHITE-WATER (www.adventurepeaks.com) mountaineering in panies offering packages several also Ladakh. high-altitude are There ascents, including the popular four- trekking and treks (6121m) day climb up Stok Kangri (7135m) – the Massif to the base of see p379 and p391 . this altitude is a serious endeavour – see p95 p95 – seethis altitude is a serious endeavour UK-based advice. for more Ladakh is a mountaineers’ paradise, but you must pay mountain royalties and climbing at MOUNTAINEERING MOUNTAINEERING lonelyplanet.com JAMMU & KASHMIR tional Tibetan medicine)clinics. Therethe busstand. are afew toiletries. toiletries. antibiotics andotheressentialmedicinesWestern % State BankofIndia State Paul Merchant ExchangeOffice BankForeign Jammu &Kashmir protection frompowercuts. national cards,andbothhave generators as Leh has two24-hourATMs thattake inter- MONEY Kumarpharmacy Vinay Het Ram Hospital health problems,headto (24 hours) andsee p1188 . Foranyserious For medicaladviceonAMSphone MEDICAL SERVICES laptops andCDburning. Faster thanmost,plusaLANnetworkfor connections Connected Get 368 travellers cheques,andhasanATM onsite. 10am-1pmSat)Exchangescurrency and 4pm Mon-Fri, Western Uniontransfers. Exchanges cashandtravellerschequesalsooffers Bazar. cheques inmajorcurrencies; alsohasanATM onMain 10am-noonSat)Changescashandtravellers 2pm Mon-Fri, (Map p371 Bazar; Complex,Main ; Himalaya „ „ „ „ „ „ „ thefollowingguidelines: byobserving tourism. Doyourbittopreserve Ladakh The culture andpristineenvironmentof Ladakh isunderthreat fromcommercialexploitationfor RESPONSIBLE TRAVEL INLADAKH

252160; Main Bazar; 252160; Main

AAH • e LADAKH ••Leh tips onresponsible trekking. Centre ( p370 ) tofind outmore about localissues. localorganisationsSupport Trek responsibly ingredients ormaterials Drinklocal andemploylocalpeoplein production. localcommunities Support electricity. Save energy directly instreams. flush toiletswhere anddon’twash available. Useenvironmentallyfriendlylaundryservices Conserve water plastic bottles. Avoid inplastic. plasticbagsandgoodspackaged Avoid plastic especially whenvisitingmonasteries. Respect localculture buckthorn) juice instead of packaged soft drinks.buckthorn) juiceinstead ofpackaged ( % 252360/252014) Mp p371; (Map (Map (Map p371 Bazar; ; Main Turn guesthousesthatuserenewable offlightswhennotin useandsupport (Map (Map p371 Bazar; ; Main Purify yourownwater orrefill yourwater bottleinstead ofbuyingwater in h Never toiletsinstead leave of tapsrunningandusecompostingLadakhi Aim to minimise your impact onanyareas Aimtominimiseyour impact youpassthrough;see p98 for 9.30am-8pm) Dispenses % , about1kmsouthof Stick to long trousers or skirts andtopsthatcover theshoulders, Sticktolongtrousersorskirts Sonam Narbu Memorial Sonam NarbuMemorial 255309; (Map (Map p371 ; Whenyoushopandeat,lookforplaces thatuselocallysourced amchi Visit theWomen’sAlliance Centre ( p370 ) andtheEcology h h h % 9am-9pm) 9am-9pm) h 10am- 253629 (tradi- 10am-

office bythetouristoffice.office rently under renovation; there’s atemporary airport road.Thecentralpostoffice iscur- 6pm) For one-hour printing andprocessing. printing 6pm) Forone-hour .theindiancenter.com/gompas-of-ladakh. andwww.excursionsindia .org/cities/Ladakh clude www.reachladakh.com, www.jktourism (Rs 20)and provided bythemagazines tours, treks andactivities,localnewsis Noticeboards all over townhave adverts for TOURIST INFORMATION calls insideLadakh. mobiles, butexpecttroublegetting alinefor will findacitywidesignalforAirtel andBSNL for international calls.Mobilephoneusers chargingin Leh, Indianrates thestandard There are numerousPCO/STD/ISD offices TELEPHONE 10am-1pm Sat) The main POST Sonu ColourLab your pictures ontoaCDforaroundRs80. hard tofind.Mostinternet caféswilldownload printfilm;slidefilmandmemorycardsaresell placesalongFortRdandMain Several Bazar PHOTOGRAPHY post office is1kmsouthof thecentre onthe Magpie (Map (Map p371 Bazar; ; Main

( (Rs 2).Useful websites in- h 10am-1pm & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm &2-5pmMon-Fri, tsestalulu lonelyplanet.com Ladags Melong h (sea 9.30am- JAMMU & KASHMIR 369 15 4 (40km); Nubra Valley (100km) To Khardung La 7 was built in 19 D Archery Stadium National 8 Sankar admission Rs 20)

Polo Old 00 500 m 0.3 miles Town Ground 16 1 Karzoo 11 Moti Market (Map p369 ;

Ὀ ὈὈὈ 13 26 6 5 2 Men Tsee Khang (500m); gompa To Petrol Station (500m); Main Post Office (500m); Hall of Fame (2km); Airport (3km); Indus Valley Gompas; 10 Kargil (231km); Manali (485km) 21 Changspa La 14 J&K Tourist Reception Centre (1.5km); 22 Gate See Central Leh Map (p371) 24 Rs 115/168 one way/return. To avoid AMS, To avoid Rs 115/168 one way/return. arriving after too soon don’t come up here in Ladakh. palace, but it’s debatablepalace, the restora- whether decay. of rate than the faster moving tion is any gives the palace prayer room So far, only sensethat must once have the grandeur of filled these Carry and watch corridors. a torch in the floor. out for holes GOMPA TSEMO NAMGYAL palace, this mud- the above A giddying climb brick of image a three-storey-high 1430, enshrining The steep Buddha. Sakyamuni, the historical path to the gompa starts from the palace, the way for a taxior you can take most of Friendship 25 18 23

17 Prayer Wheel 12 20 Leh Leh

9 Old Leh Rd Leh Old 3 dawn-dusk) Changspa B h B2 C2 C2 D1 C2 B1 C1 D2 B1 C2 C2 B3 C4 C4 C2 C2 B4 D3 C2 C2 D3 D2 B1 C4 C1 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 253482; Fort Rd; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) 10am-4pm %

h Fort Rd Fort LADAKH •• Leh (Map p371 ; p371 (Map AC (Map p371 ; Indian/foreigner Rs 5/100; Rs 5/100; ; Indian/foreigner p371 (Map

Ladakh Taxi Operators Cooperative.. C4 INFORMATION SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES SLEEPING EATING TRANSPORT Himalayan Bikers...... Indian Airlines...... Main Bus Station...... Taxi Stand No 2...... Silver Cloud Guest House...... Booklovers Retreat...... Garden Restaurants...... Asia Guest House...... Gomang Guest House...... Hotel Omasila...... Lak Rook Garden Guest House...... Lotus Hotel...... Oriental Guest House...... Shanti Guest House...... Shanti ...... Stupa...... Tisserru Stupa...... Victory Fort...... (see 7) Body Care...... (see 2) Gomang Stupa...... Mahabodhi Meditation Centre...... Namgyal Tsemo Gompa...... Sankar Gompa...... Ecology Centre...... Open Ladakh...... Sonam Norbu Memorial Hospital...... Women's Alliance Cente...... 252094; Old Leh Rd; Old Leh 252094; 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) Has limited brochures on Ladakh. Has limited brochures 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) LEHLEH 2 3 1 4 % h a booth at the airport,There’s flights. open for incoming the views from the roof are stunning. The The stunning. are the views from the roof the SurveyArchaeological India is restoring of Palace by the Buddhist was built in the 17th century Ladakh. than a pass- kings of more It bears and in Tibet ing similarity to Potala Palace LEH PALACE LEH PALACE the old town, the ruined above Rising Tourist office Sights Jammu & KashmirJammu Tourist Reception Centre ( Handles bookings Kashmir for Jammu and Tourist Bungalows in Ladakh. lonelyplanet.com JAMMU & KASHMIR admission Rs20) ceremonial buildingsbelongingtotheformer the oldtownisavailable fromlocaltravel interesting buildingsandmonumentsin of Ladakh. lama of Ladakh. is the armed godof compassion. Acrosstheroad Buddha, andAvalokitesvara, thethousand- ofcient muralsandstatues , thefuture somean- monks.Inside,youcansee Gelukpa Women’s Alliance,the ofHidden awayinthetangle streets behindthe SANKAR GOMPA agencies. outer walls. theinnerandered muralsbetween medieval interesting is thesmallred Nearbytional dancesonsummerevenings. The ( p371). map Leh royal family,marked ontheCentral Fund with helpfromtheGerman-run theremainingare buildings nowpreserving After centuriesof houses. dakhi neglect,locals forstupas)andtraditionalmud-bricketan La- of are OldLeh linedwitherodedchortens (Tib- theJamaBehind Masjid, thecrumblingstreets OLD LEH not tohasten thedestruction. you comeuphere, watch yourfootingandtry of backpackers scramblingover thewalls.If medieval 370 A free brochure andmaplistingother Immediately belowthepalaceare of aseries thegompaare theloftyBehind ruinsof a help is at hand, courtesy of help isathand,courtesy vanish underaseaofplastic. Fortunately, from disposableplasticbottles,Leh will purifiedwaterIf travellers ondrinking keep FILL UP! apricots. tsestalulu batteries, andasmallshopsellingdelicious forpaper andcling anddisposalservice arecy- mentally friendlylaundryservice, just Rs7.Dzomsaalsooffers anenviron- refills ofpurified,pressure-boiled water for environmental organisation thatprovides p371; (www.tibetheritagefund.org) AAH • e LADAKH ••Leh photang % victory fort victory 250699; Main Bazar; 250699; Main (sea buckthorn)juiceandorganic Chenrezi Lhakhang Chenrezi is maintained byasmallorder of ismaintained Soma Gompa (official residence) of thehead Chamba Lhakhang , badlydamaged byhordes Sankar Sankar Gompa . is used fortradi- is used h , withrediscov- Dzomsa 8am-9pm) Tibet Heritage Tibet Heritage , andthe Mp p369; (Map

(Map (Map , an mission free; n 1pm &3-7pm) trunks. in geometric patterns over acore of poplar . and thewarwithPakistan over thedisputed bus stand. The360-degreebus stand. viewsover Leh balanced onarockyoutcropoverlooking the other prayer-flag cloaked rock carvings. stupa inKathmandu andflanked byBuddhist the 9thcenturyinasimilarstyletoBodhi Stupa of the11th-century of because in Leh theriskof AMS. but don’trush uphere toosoonafter arriving world peace. Thestupaoffers stunningviews, the gleaming ofexhausting flight steps fromChangspa, Reached byalongwindingroadoranequally BUDDHIST STUPAS September. Festivalplace here aspartof in theLadakh chaam BuddhistAssociation.of Masked theLadakh free; admission p371 ; Main thissmallmodern Bazar, in Right thecentre buthiddenawaybehind CHOWKHANG request. Donations are appreciated. from Monday toSaturday,and otherfilmson excellent documentary culture.tion of Thecentre Ladakhi screens the andthepreserva- development for sustainable p369; Run byvillage women,this WOMEN’S ALLIANCECENTRE crafts producedbyvillage cooperatives. handi- issues,plusashop selling vironmental has alibraryandanexhibitiononcurrent en- % In Changspa,the ECOLOGY CENTRE this small About 2km southof ontheairportroad, Leh HALL OFFAME are superb. Closer toChangspaisthestriking Closer Just northof theShanti Stupaare theruins Reached Rdisan- byapathfromOldLeh ) 253221; admissionbydonation; was builtbyJapanese monkstopromote %

(Map (Map p369 ; admissionfree; dances (ritualmasked dances)take 250293; h museum has displays on Ladakhi culture hasdisplaysonLadakhi 24hr) Shanti Stupa h madefrommudbrickslaid h 10am-4pm Mon-Sat)

(Indian/foreign Rs10/50; 24hr) Ecology Centre Ecology Centre Tisserru Stupa Ancient Futures istheheadquarters Mp p369; (Map h community centre community centre stupa h lonelyplanet.com 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) 24hrs) (Map p369 ) campaigns Mp p6 ad- p369; (Map h gompa , builtin Mp p369; (Map 5am-9pm; Gomang h at 3pm at 3pm

(Map (Map (Map (Map 9am-

JAMMU & KASHMIR 21 B3 A2 A3 C3 C4 B2 B2 B4 B3 B3 B3 C3 C2 C2 B3 B2 371 (250m) 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 To Sankar 20 24 To Namgyal Gompa (1km) Tsemo Gompa 23 35 Office D District Magistrates 25 Old Town Polo Ground Prayer Wheel 00 0.1 miles 200 m Handicrafts Industrial Cooperative Ladakh Taxi Operators Cooperative (Main Stand)...... B3 DRINKING SHOPPING TRANSPORT Ladakh Art Palace...... Wamda Wood Carving...... Discover Himalaya Adventure...... HPTDC Booking Office...... Jet Airways...... La Terrasse...... Ladakhi Bakeries...... Lamayuru Restaurant...... Leh View Restaurant...... (see 6) Neha Snacks...... (see 7) Pumperknickel German Bakery...... Summer Harvest...... Tenzin Dickey Tibetan...... Tibetan Kitchen...... Liquor Store...... (see 8) Antique Shops...... Buddhist Thangka House...... Shop...... Ladag Apricot Store...... 49 To Ecology Jama Masjid Centre (100m) A2 C2 B3 C3 B1 D2 D2 D4 A2 A2 B3 B2 A3 A3 A2 B2 B1 D3 A3 ὈὈ 7 43 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 57 12 6 10 To Private Buses to Srinagar & Kargil (50m); Bus Stand (1km); Moravian Church 13 2 15 Ladakh Taxi Operators Cooperative 14 8 Office (1km); Main Post Office (1km); Sonam Narbu Memorial Hospital (1km) 17 Main Bazar 38 40 5

50 22 Bazar Main Local Bazaar 9 4 School Zangsti Rd 42 Moravian Mission 53 16 52 58 New 39 Mosque 45 Brokpa Market

Changspa La 18

41 29 Old Fort Rd Fort Old 51 Backpacker Restaurants...... Food Affair...... Fruit & Vegetable Market...... Gesmo Restaurant...... (see 44) Himalaya Café...... Il Forno...... (see 16) La Pizzeria...... Leh Palace...... Soma Gompa...... Babu Guesthouse...... Dorje Guesthouse...... Glacier View...... Hotel Dragon...... (see 1) Hotel Ga-Ldan Continental...... Hotel Lingzi...... Hotel Lumbini...... Hotel Yak Tail...... Indus Guest House...... Jigmet Guest House...... Julay Guest House...... Old Ladakh Guest House...... Padma Guest House & Hotel...... SLEEPING EATING All Ladakh Unemployed Youth Association...... (see 38) B Market 28 34 B2 B3 A2 D2 D2 C2 A4 C4 B3 C2 C2 C2 C3 C3 C4 C3 A2 C1 C3 C1 C4 Tibetan Refugee 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 33 46 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 56 3 Hotel 55 Khangri 44 Market Tibetan 54 Library Rd 31 Office 37

11 Old Leh Rd Leh Old Shanti Stupa (2km) 47 48 To Changspa (800m); 32 LADAKH •• Central Leh 19

AC Fort Rd Fort 1

Upper Tukcha Rd 30 27 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES INFORMATION State Bank of India & ATM...... C2 Jammu & Kashmir Bank Foreign Exchange Zanskar Treks...... Chamba Lhakhang...... Chenrezi Lhakhang...... Chowkhang Gompa...... Rimo Expeditions...... Trails...... (see 14) Sonu Colour Lab...... Splash Adventure Tours...... Tourist Office...... Ladakh Bookshop...... (see 6) Ladakh Buddhist Association ...... (see 22) Leh Ling Bookshop...... Overland Escape...... Paul Merchant...... (see 42) Police Station...... Post Office (under renovation)...... Dzomsa...... Explore ...... Get Connected...... Het Ram Vinay Kumar Pharmacy...... Jammu & Kashmir Bank ATM...... Office...... Adventure North...... Around Ladakh with Students...... Dreamland Trek & Tour...... 36 26 CENTRAL LEH LEH LEH CENTRAL CENTRAL CENTRAL 5 2 3 1 6 4 lonelyplanet.com JAMMU & KASHMIR tablished topromotetablished traditionalTibetan to 500. Also see Courses ( to 500.Alsosee opposite ). traditional or massage isRs350 Ayurvedic mendations. Thegoingrate foranhourof boards andthetraveller forrecom- grapevine varysocheckin thehills.Standards notice- andrubsafter andmassages longtreksclasses, Numerous places offer yogaandmeditation YOGA, MEDITATION &MASSAGE Activities horoscope. andyoumaybeable toarrangeseum alife medicine andastrology.There’s asmallmu- h road, thisBuddhist About 2kmbelowthecentre ontheairport MEN TSEE KHANG 372 to disturbthenovices. The first Tibetancymbals, booming drums andhonking horns. Visitors are welcome towatch,buttrynot ices gathertochant passagesfromthesacred scriptures, sometimes accompaniedbyclanging with salted butter tea outthemorningchill. tokeep the doors. The besttime tovisitanygompaisduringthemorning then destroyedtosymbolisethefutility ofthephysicalplane. also produceexquisite sandmandalas–geometricpatterns madefromsprinkledcoloured sand, deliberately builttodecay,symbolisingtheimpermanence ofhumanexistence. Manygompas nate andslightlypsychedelicmodelsmadefromcoloured butter anddough.The sculptures are to showyoutheroomwhere themasksandcostumesare stored. ent dates atdifferent monasteries). Ifyoucan’tvisitwhena (Festival oftheScapegoat)inFebruary, andthesmallerfestivals of need forinnerreflection. characters are often depicted withathirdeyeinthecentre oftheirforeheads, signifyingthe Lords oftheCremation stags. Grounds,whileShawadancerswearmasksofwild-eyed These figure withaheaddress ofhumanskulls. The Durdag theGreatDances towardoffevilfeature Protector, adiabolical-looking masksofMahakala, tory ofgoodover evilandofBuddhismover religions) pre-existing tocelebrate majorfestivals. .net/wheel1.htm foraninteractive descriptionof thewheeloflife). a graphicalrepresentation ofthecore elementsofBuddhistphilosophy(seewww.buddhanet against ignorance. Bytheentranceto and may becovered invividmuralsor morning explain things if you ask. explain thingsifyouask. manyBuddhistmonksspeakEnglishandwillgladly ofwhatisgoingon.Fortunately, a fraction is incredibly complicated andyoucanspendhoursexploringa gompa andstillunderstandonly isfamousforitsatmosphericgompas Ladakh ANATOMY OFAGOMPA 8am-1pm &2-5.30pm,till4.30pmwinter) AAH • e LADAKH ••Leh Gompas are typicallyopenfromsunrisetosunset,butyoumayneedfindamonk open atBuddhist monasteries ofbutterAnother unusualactivity istheproduction sculptures, or- The main Almost all gompas hold masked Almost allgompasholdmasked The focalpointofagompaisthe dharmapalas puja chaams (literally ‘respect’; offering orprayers,recitals fromtheBuddhistsutras).The walls (protector deities)depicted infrightfulposestosymbolisetheeternal fight cultural centre cultural centre take placefor take puja ( % takes placeataround 7amandattendantstakes often comeround Losar chaam was es- du-khang, 253566; du-khang (Tibetan NewYear)(Tibetan inDecember/January, dances (ritual masked dancestocelebrate dances(ritualmasked thevic- (cloth paintings)of

(Buddhist monasteries), butBuddhistmythology orprayerhall,where monksassembleforthe and p379 forinformationonroutes. See opposite forreliable trekking operators TREKKING and lifejacket hire costsRs1500perday. yon of Asia’ –isRs1000perday.Kayak, paddle River –knownasthe‘GrandCan- the Zanskar on theIndusisRs900,whilefive-day runon andZanskar.around Ladakh Oneday’srafting Zangsti) [email protected]; ing inIndia. some of thebestwhite-water rafting and kayak- rivers offer Ladakh’s From JulytoSeptember, RAFTING &KAYAKING range of massages andherbalrubs. 253350; ChangspaLane) you’ll find a mural depicting the you’llfindamuraldepicting In Changspa,

dance features the skullmasksdepicting chaam Splash Adventures Gu-Stor is taking place,askamonk istaking puja Body Care Body Care has a sauna andawide hasasauna , whenmonksandnov- (enlightened beings) and has all sorts of trips has allsortsof trips Mp p369; (Map (Map p371 ; Tse-Chu lonelyplanet.com wheel oflife Dosmoche (differ- % % 254870; 254870; mobile – JAMMU & KASHMIR

fair. fair. 373 dances, 250784; www Dosmoche Ladakh Festival 252074; www % chaam chaam 252727; www 253348; www 252139; www.travel % 250858; www (Map p371 ; p371 (Map % % 252153; Fort Rd) % % % (Map p371 ; p371 (Map (Map p371 ; p371 (Map (Map p371 ; p371 (Map (Map p371 ; p371 (Map (Map p371 ; p371 (Map (Map p371 ; p371 (Map (Map p371 ; p371 (Map 254863; www.secmol.org; Ridzong Labrang Complex) In budget places, bucket hot water is the hot water places, bucket In budget Listed here are some long-established and are here Listed .snowleopardtrails.com; Hotel Kanglhachen.snowleopardtrails.com; Complex) ladakh.com; Rd) Dragon, Old Leh Hotel .overlandescape.com; Fort.overlandescape.com; Rd) % .indiamart.com/explorehimalayas; Main Bazar) heating once the snow arrives. heating once the snow arrives. and top-end places norm. Most midrange in the morning and running hot water have evening. Rates in Leh include tax; at hotels a 10% service expensive applies at more charge hotels. entertaining package of sports and cultural of entertaining package activities, including masked celebrate locals In February, and polo. archery with the two-day the New Year outside Leh and ef-A giant pole is erected the old the evil spirits of figies representing burnt or cast out into ceremonially year are ) for more p351 ( text the desert; see the boxed in Ladakh.festivals Sleeping otherwise stated, places the following Unless on depend closed (exact dates in winter are still in town). From 15 are how many visitors then September, plummet everywhere, rates the cost of again slightlyincrease to cover Around Ladakh with Students Dreamland Trek & Tour ExploreHimalayas Overland Escape Rimo Expeditions Snow Leopard Trails Zanskar Treks Festivals & Events Ladakh’s place in winter, Most of take festivals the people attend but plenty of boards around town for ‘travellers wanted’ wanted’ for ‘travellers around town boards tours fixed-rate The taxinotices. stand offers ), but you still p376 ( Nubra Valley as far as the need a permit. but it pays operators, and tour trek reputable other from to seekout recommendations minimise Look for companies that travellers. tourism remote the environmental impact of insurance covers that your travel and be sure evacuation accidents at helicopter in case of altitude. Adventure North Leh – a touristy but (1 to 15 September) in .dreamladakh.com; Fort Rd) .rimoexpeditions.com; Hotel Kanglhachen Complex)

(Map (Map p369 ; LADAKH •• Leh has medita- (www.mondochal (www.beautifulworld.org

Open Ladakh Mahabodhi Meditation Centre Mondo Challenge . 253689; www.mahabodhi-ladakh.org; Changspa Beautiful World and Many travel agencies in Ladakh offer cut- Ladakh agencies in Many travel offer

% runs yoga and meditation sessions from and yoga runs 9419179917; www.openladakh.com) lenge.org) willing to who are price tours to volunteers natural help clear rubbish from vulnerable Tso; and Pangong like the Rupsu Valley areas The departures. check local noticeboards for on information ) has more p1157 ( Directory in Zanskarvolunteering and Ladakh. .uk) VOLUNTEERING IN LADAKH LADAKH IN VOLUNTEERING LadakhSchools across experienced need and English to teach teachers volunteer You may other subjects to local children. a placement by approach- be able to find Al- directly. and monasteries ing schools agencies international several ternatively, in Ladakhiplace teachers includ- schools, ing

Travel agents can arrange permits for permits for can arrange agents Travel Expect to pay around US$60 per person per Expect to pay around US$60 per person In Changspa, eigners must travel in a group of four, but in a group of must travel eigners find extra travellers can often agencies travel Check the notice- up the numbers. to make Nubra, Pangong Tso or for around or Tso Tso Nubra, Pangong ). Officially, for- p366 (seeRs 100 plus taxes and a similar price for a trekking trip to the and a similar price for a trekking based on four or Stok Kangri, Valley Markha for more p379 see together; trekking people information. day for a three-day (two-night) jeep trip to (two-night) day for a three-day Moriri, or Tso Tso Pangong the Nubra Valley, commodation and food, and the destination – and ponies, guides as well as the number of tours. on trekking porters of any given tour will depend on the number any given of ac- the kind of vehicle, people, the type of of jeep safaris around Ladakh, from daytrips to gompas to high-altitude week-long treks. cost similar prices, but the all charge Agencies Dozens of tour operators offer treks and and treks offer tour operators Dozens of for the sign on Changspa Lane. Treks & Tours tion classes at 4pm weekdays and a variety of Look and Buddhist retreats. courses longer % Lane) Courses Courses In summer the p369 ; Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book Monday to Saturday. JAMMU & KASHMIR old village house justdownhillfromthePolo old village house off FortRd,theIndusoffersoff large, light-filled [email protected]; rRs300-500) [email protected]; Ground, OldTown;rwithshared bathroomRs150-200) available 24hours. rooms get plentyof andhotwater light is and asmall,sun-soaked frontterrace. Upstairs village withenthusiasticownersised house, r without/withbathroom Rs350/400) bathrooms. and guestshave achoice of shared orprivate site Jigmet.It’srunbyanengagingfamily and cheerful optionsdownthealleyoppo- 400; vsnl.net; UpperTukcha Rd;rwithout/with bathroomRs300/ there’s apleasing homyvibe. rooms arranged aroundacourtyardand isbeautifullyquiet. setting Rooms are simplebutgoodvalueandthe ery garden,lulledbythesoundof astream. bathroom Rs250) [email protected]; UpperTukcha Rd;rwithshared be welcome. also afamilyhome,sonoisygroupsmaynot around ahop-vine strewn courtyard.Thisis brick placehasvillage-style roomsarranged Jama Masjid intheoldtown,thisrusticmud- bathroomRs500-600) with private the PoloGround,OldTown;rwithshared bathroomRs200-350, value. family. Roomsare simplebutcleanandgood byalocalBuddhist unashamed hospitality isrunwith Ground, thisappealingguesthouse Babu GuestHouse Central Leh BUDGET 374 Julay GuestHouse Dorje Guesthouse GuestHouse Old Ladakh Glacier View Glacier View Indus GuestHouse ard Trails alayan-homestays.com) the familyfields. andplantingworkinproudly ondisplay.Youmayeven beabletohelpwiththeharvesting withallthepotsandpanssurprisingly cosyandeveryone eatstogetherinthefamilykitchen, are forbeddingandcandleslight–buttherooms are modest–apileofrugsandblankets wayoflife.rooms topayingguests,providing afascinatingwindowonto theLadakhi Facilities A growingnumberofvillagefarmhousesaround Ladakh and Zanskar are openingtheirspare HOMESTAYS INLADAKH Fort Rd) Fort h AAH • e LADAKH ••Leh Homestays aroundtheIndusValley canbearrangedthrough closed Nov-Apr) . Mp p371; (Map Mp p371; (Map A tall white house inaflow- whiteA tall house

Mp p371; (Map Mp p371; (Map

Mp p371; (Map Oneof cheap several Mp p371; (Map for around Rs 350/600 per single/double. For bookings, contact contact foraroundRs350/600persingle/double. Forbookings, % % Downanarrowalley Mp p371; (Map

252074; Hotel Kanglhachen Complex) 252074; HotelKanglhachen % 253503; UpperTukcha Rd; Justnorthof the % A smart,modern- % 252419; nearthePolo 251163; gmsheikh@ % 252502; masters_ % 253460; dorje 252951; near An endearingly haphazard place is set inahugeendearingly haphazardplaceisset in asprawlinggardenandrunbyvery wel- kitchen. meals are taken inthetraditional Ladakhi powered, there are composting toiletsand organic vegetable garden. Theshowerissolar 150/350) rwithout/withbathroomRs Sankar; [email protected]; and water is pipinghot24hours. There’sstay. arestaurant andtravel agent, coming family,thisisacharming placeto bathroomRs350-800; 100/200, withprivate Changspa;s/dwithshared bathroomRs ental-ladakh.com; GuestHouse Oriental Changspa &Sankar shared bathroom Rs 200-300, s/d with private bathroomRs shared bathroom Rs200-300,s/dwith private [email protected]; Rd;rwith o MIDRANGE and Gomangstupas. and ahandylocationfortheShanti, Tisserru Shanti Stupa,withhuge, lino-floored rooms, belowthe house A gleamingwhite Ladakhi sancharnet.in; Changspa;rwithout/withbathroom Rs250/450) yakinthelounge.for thestuffed rooms withsit-downflush toilets.Lookout vegetable garden,acosycaféandbigcarpeted near theShanti Stupa,withanoverflowing bathroomRs500-600) with private Changspa;rwithshared bathroomRs200-300, yahoo.com; setting. roomsinaquiet,village butbright and scruffy kitchen withatraditionalLadakhi lage house vil- Gomang Stupa,thisisanicelymodernised spa; s/dwithshared bathroomRs170/200) i Lak Rook Garden GuestHouse Lak RookGarden Asia GuestHouse Asia Gomang GuestHouse Shanti GuestHouse ) Spread over houses three huge Ladakhi or Overland Escape Run byanenergetic oldcouple,this Jigmet GuestHouse Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com Himalayan Homestays (Map p369; (Map

Mp p369; (Map

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(Map p371 ; Main Bazar; 252119; Changspa Lane; Changspa Lane; 252119; 250265; hotellotus@vsnl % % (fried noodles) and (fried noodles) and channa puri channa (Map p371 ; Fort Rd; mains from p371 (Map

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(Map p371 ; Main Bazar; snack meals under p371 (Map thukpa (Map p371 ; Changspa Lane; pizzas & mains ; Changspa Lane; pizzas & p371 (Map A useful noticeboard, cheap cakes cakes A useful noticeboard, cheap tingmo (noodle soup). As well as the fol- (noodle soup). As A popular drinking hole and dinner , chowmein and Pizzeria Locals flock to this Punjabi place for Locals flock to this Punjabi place for

For travellers who can’t get enough of enough of who can’t get For travellers An old traveller hangout, complete with hangout, complete An old traveller Hotel Omasila La Hotel Neha The following restaurants open daily from open daily from The following restaurants Pumpernickel German Bakery Lamayuru Restaurant Sharing a courtyard next to the Bank of a courtyard next to the Bank of Sharing Lotus Hotel Tenzin Dickey Tibetan Tenzin pure-veg snacks like like snacks pure-veg sweets. and Indian curry with bread) spot for the Changspa crowd, with above- in the pizzas and a roasting open fire average evenings. cheap snacks and chai to an eager crowd of crowd of to an eager snacks and chai cheap travellers. penny-watching snacks Rs 15-60) this and sandwiches, and low, low prices keep through the season. travellers place full of Rs 30) Rs 30) momos the right pushes all buttons. restaurant Rs 40) Eating Eating and pizza sup- breakfasts Banana-pancake Leh, though you can de rigueur in are pers also find momos thukpa and Fort Rd have lowing places, Changspa open from numerous garden restaurants, July until September, de- when the owners camp to . at nightearly morning to late unless otherwise mentioned. Bazar, Food AffairIndia on Main and the All Ladakh serve Unemployed Youth Association midrange hotel with a great garden terrace garden terrace with a great hotel midrange houses. village severaland rooms in converted and car- Bedrooms bedspreads flowery have TV cons like pets, plus mod and running hot water. .net; Karzoo s/d from Rs 2200/2700; village; carpets rooms with thick leads onto a tasteful also a good details. There’s and little Tibetan restaurant. old travellers. Come here for inexpensive In- for inexpensive Come here old travellers. dian, Chinese snack meals and international and a good noticeboard. Rs 50-200) s/d from Rs 2000/2200) s/d from sense the good vibe at this place as soon as A sunny raised garden you walk in the door. Next 252630; 252173; A big A big A real A real ) % % 253128; silver i LADAKH •• Leh % Chintzy but Chintzy but A big institu- 252139; www.travel A stylish refurb A stylish refurb 252118; www.hotelyak 252528; www.hotellum

(Map p371 ; (Map p371 ; % 252020; lingzihotel@yahoo % % (Map p369 ;

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(Map p371 ; The sun provides natural central natural The sun provides year-round) h Hotel Lingzi Hotel Yak Tail Hotel Yak Padma Guest House & HotelPadma Hotel Lumbini Hotel Ga-Ldan Continental Hotel Dragon [email protected]; Old Fort Rd; s/d 1690/1842) and the suites have Ladakhi-style have with and the suites lounges Chowkhang the or mountains.views of hotel. Rooms have considerate details like details considerate like Rooms have hotel. wooden toilet seats (a blessing in cold weather), .co.in; Old Fort.co.in; Rd; s/d Rs 1600/1900) for this tour group–friendly has done wonders conveniences, and wide terraces facing the and wide terraces conveniences, gompa-style res- a great mountains. There’s taurant and bar. upmarket place catering to tour groups, the catering place upmarket fluffy rooms with the usual Dragon has large, and trees and vines add colour to the commu- and trees nal spaces. Welcoming rooms come with TV, mothballs. carpets and a slight smell of charming is the best way to describe this big is the best charming on Fort Rd. It’s open all year, courtyard hotel tail.com; Fort s/d from Rs1300/1800) Rd; four luxurious corner suites have lounges that lounges have four luxurious corner suites soak up the rays. heating at this cleverly modified family home but the inviting, All the rooms are in Sanker. 500, ste Rs 2000) TOP END TOP END Silver Cloud Guest House new hotel block. The rooftop terrace offers offers terrace block. The rooftop new hotel views towards the peaks. with shared bathrooms in the old house or with shared rooms with nice fabrics in the modern hotel gem, hidden away in the alleys below Fort Rd. gem, bright, rooms carpeted of a choice Guests have vate bathroom Rs 700-800, hotel r Rs 1700; vate bathroom Rs 700-800, hotel some squeeze in a view of the mountains.some squeeze in a view of large courtyard shaded by apple trees. Rooms by apple trees. courtyard shaded large carpets, TVshave lamps, and and chintzy can read your book under an apple tree in apple tree your book under an can read garden. the kitchen family, rooms are large and clean, and you and clean, large are family, rooms 600/700; 600/700; favourite our still delightful, of Jigmet is one guesthouses in Ladakh. It’s run by a friendly Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book ladakh.com; Rd; s/d from Rs 1430/1840) Old Leh biniladakh.com; Fort Rd; s/d Rs 600/800) [email protected]; Sankar;[email protected]; r with private bathroom Rs www.padmaladakh.com; off Fort guesthouse r with pri- Rd; tional place at the far end of Fort Rd, with a Fort Rd, with a at the far end of tional place door to Hotel Lingzi and similar to it but less door to Hotel grand. JAMMU & KASHMIR beers andfoodfromaneclecticIndian,Chi- cold ofA stalwart thetraveller scene,serving with aview. ler fare. Gouptotheroof terrace fordinner Kashmiri curriesaswelltheusualtravel- ask thewaiter. There’s alsoa liquor store near appears butitnever beer onthemenu so serve Most of thegardenandrooftop restaurants Drinking Masjid. bakeriesdakhi (Map p371 ) behindtheJama bread fromthetraditionalwood-fired La- Fort Rd.Youcanbuyfreshly baked Tibetan p371 ) atthejunctionwithFortRdandOld There’s afruitandvegetable market (Map QUICK EATS soup), butnoalcohol. ruchowtse as menu haslotsof Tibetan specialitiessuch classy restaurant attheHotel Tso-Kar. The booked intheafternoon (inperson) atthis h but onlyuntillate September. zas intown,washeddownwithicycoldbeers, thebestpiz- unassuming rooftop placeserves surroundings. There’s alsoaroof terrace. andIndianfastfoodincalmingmodern nese goodChi- south endof Main serving Bazar, One of top-floor several restaurants atthe attract travellers tothisinvitingrestaurant. cold beers andinternational sportsontheTV Rs 50-120) 60-130) bring yourown. and there’s youdidn’t abookshop, in case afullrange of coffees, teas andsnacks, serves ticated optionforoldChangspa,thisplace Rs 40-100; and hotdrinksare themainattractions. openlaterant thatstays intoautumn–cakes 180) dining roomforcoldnights. As wellastheroof terrace, there’s anindoor Tibetan,nese, EuropeanandIsraelimenu. 376 Himalaya Café Café Himalaya o Restaurant Leh View Restaurant Gesmo La Terrasse Tibetan Kitchen Il Forno Retreat Booklovers sha bakleh Areliable coffee shopandtravellers restau- 11am-10.30pm) AAH • e LADAKH ••Leh AKashmiri-owned place,withmeaty Top-notch Indian and Chinese food, Top-notch IndianandChinese h (Map (Map p371 ; ZangstiRd;pizzasRs80-120) Summer Harvest Summer Harvest (cheese andvegetable (cheese 7am-11pm)

(Map (Map p371 Bazar;dishesRs50-200) ; Main (bread with meat)and stuffed (Map (Map p371 Bazar;mainsRs60-120) ; Main Evening shouldbe tables

(Map (Map p371 Rd;mainsRs60-180; ; Fort (Map (Map p371 Rd;snackmealsRs40- ; Fort (Map (Map p369 ; ChangspaLane;meals Asurprisinglysophis- (Map (Map p371 Bazar;mainsRs ; Main (Map (Map p371 Rd;mains ; Fort momos This in

Women’s Alliance(Map p369 locally) sell % flated. Nearby, h Palace Art Ladakh little benefittolocalpeople. from China,Kashmir andNepal,providing be aware thatmanysouvenirs are trucked in lery andwooden kas some wonderfulthingsonoffer –from ispackedLeh withsouvenir shops.There are Shopping ground onTuesdaysandSaturdays. matchesLocal teams playweekly atthepolo SPORT courtyard of theSomaGompa. in frontof Kangri Hotel (Map p371 ) andthe (spectators payRs50) on summerevenings songanddanceataround5.30pm Ladakhi Dance troupes putonshowsof traditional CULTURAL PERFORMANCES Entertainment TerrasseHarvest andLa Eating. –see at yourhotel orinthevegetable market. is hardtofindbeyondfestival time;tryasking the Jammu &Kashmir Bank. to reach Ladakh inwinter, may butflights to reach Ladakh into The dramatic flight istheonlyway Leh AIR Getting There& Away machine-made carpetsandantiques. robes, Polo Ground,fortraditionalLadakhi (Map p371 Main), between andthe Bazar of(dried sheets poundedapricotpulp). packed apricotsanddelicious‘apricotleather’ (Map p371 Store nuts alongMain orheadto Bazar, h and Shop operative are available fromthe withimages of carved tables mythicalbeasts produced craftsandclothes.Wooden of Probably the best selection intownisat Probably thebestselection Popular drinkingholesincludeSummer It’s alsoworthchecking outthelocalbazaar driedapricots,applesand Brokpa womensell (MapThe EcologyCentre p369 ) and thangkas, 255669; Main Bazar; 255669; Main 9am-6pm) 9am-7.30pm) and Ladakhi hatstoheavy jewel- turquoise andLadakhi

Wamda Wood Carving Wamda WoodCarving (Map (Map p371 Rd; ; OldFort ; % . starting atRs1500. starting 250699; Main Bazar; 250699; Main ,

(Map (Map p371 Rd; ; OldFort but pricesare somewhatin- Buddhist Thangka House Buddhist Thangka Mp p371; (Map choktse h 9am-6pm) Handicrafts Industrial Co- Industrial Handicrafts h (Tibetan –but tables) Mp p7 Od ot Rd; Fort Old p371; (Map 9am-6pm) % has agoodrange lonelyplanet.com Chang 252116; Main Bazar; 252116; Main h 8am-9pm) and h Ladag Apricot Ladag Apricot (rice beer) (ricebeer) Mp p371; (Map 9am-6pm)

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JAMMU & KASHMIR 377 at the buses 252792) Ladakh Bus Op-

% ( booth at the main 252297/252095) % 252792) % ( (HPTDC;

Himachal Pradesh Tourist Develop-

In season, Privately owned buses leave around 3.30am, owned busesPrivately leave Kashmir & Kargil Kashmir & Kargil The Leh road is usually open to Srinagar The November. to early May from the end of in stop two days with an overnight trip takes Buses (or occasionally Drass). bound Kargil by 5am, to clear the pass for Srinagar have forcing a 2am start from Kargil. A single bus to Sumur (Rs 101, 6am) leaves at A single bus to Sumur (Rs 101, 6am) leaves and Saturday only, return- 6am on Thursday that groups of ing the next morning. Note four may be turned back, even than with less a Nubra permit. Ladakh Western LadakhBuses from the to the west of leave Ladakh Bus Operators Cooperative the main bus station. Bus times north end of – all p378 text, in the boxed listed are and fares services one hour) and go via Nimmu (Rs 20, destina- To reach (Rs 24, 1¼ hours). Khalsi, any bus from Leh take tions west of or Srinagar – see ‘To/From Kashmir to Kargil . below & Kargil’, 1600, including tented accommodation at at accommodation 1600, including tented Rd Transport Corpo- Himachal The Keylong. State & Kashmir and Jammu ration (HRTC) (J&KSRTC) Road Transport Corporation ordinary busesat the same offer time for Rs is extra). Keylong 525 (accommodation in ac- including tented costing about Rs 1000, You (or Sarchu). commodation at Keylong in Leh. agency can book with any travel Nubra Valley from the Buses to Nubra leave erators Cooperative an 8am bus to Diskit (Rs bus stand. There’s and on Tuesday, Thursday 102, six hours) the following day at 7am. Saturday, returning has services in the mentioned destinations to . left text, boxed Manali is officially open from 15 Manali The road to July to 15 September buses but private run The if the road is clear. until mid-October and cold and gruelling days, two journey takes Travellers buses the night stop for at Keylong. heading to Lahaul Spiti should change and at Gramphu. ment Corporation leave at around 4.30am daily; the fare is Rs is Rs at around 4.30am daily; the fare leave

(Map p371 ;

252076; Fort % Jet Airways (Map p369 ; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, till 3pm Sun)

and h LADAKH •• Leh Indian Airlines 10am-1pm & 2-5pm) & 4.30pm 6pm & 10min half-hourly 30 Chemrey 2pm 1hr every half-hourly Choglamsar 7 15min 9.30am & 2hr Hemis 32 50min 4.30pm 9am, daily Karu 25 40min daily Matho 17 2pm half-hourly half-hourly six 30min Phyang 16 1¼hr 25min six & Shakti 35 15min 8am, half-hourly 12 Spituk 7 40min 30min 20 Stok 15 half-hourly 30min Thiksey 15 Destination Fare Destination Fare Duration Departures (Rs) 250999; Main Bazar; h BUSES TO/FROM LEH BUSES TO/FROM LEH Both Security at Leh airport is tight and no hand The minibus stand the main bus station at Villages buses tend to leave Leh in the af- buses to leave tend Villages the following morning. and return ternoon Local Villages Local Villages Gate). Double-check times before traipsing times before Double-check Gate). with your bags. down here (Map p369 ), 700m south of the centre (on the centre south of ), 700m p369 (Map foot, cut through the bazaar by the Friendship BUS BUS Local and long-distance public buses leave from several stands at the main bus station Airlines also flies to Srinagar (US$102, one Airlines also flies to Srinagar (US$112, Jammu hour) on Wednesday and Sunday. on Friday and 45 minutes) and Lehairlines (US$170, one hour). Both Indian service a reduced operate in winter. % flight at least one daily between Delhi have Rd; there are no restrictions on cameras on flights on no restrictions are there into Leh. can take your camera and laptop in the cabin, and laptop in the cabin, your camera can take hold. is placed in the battery but only if the Ladakh, of aerial photographs If you want luggage is allowed on flights leaving Leh. allowed on flights is luggage You leaving be cancelled at short notice because of bad because notice at short be cancelled of your rearrange days to can take It weather. into your build some flexibility booking, so plans. lonelyplanet.com JAMMU & KASHMIR 6am forKargil (ordinary/deluxe Rs240/320, at atthemainbusstation ernment busstand fers tours drop-offs and jeep asfarafield as tors Cooperative Near thetouristoffice, the TAXI 1000, 18hours) ataround3.30pm. ship Gate. Afew leave jeeps forSrinagar(Rs leave neartheFriend- fromtheoldbus stand at around1am. fore leave number; taxis tofindoutyourtaxi 1000 to1500,14hours). be- Checkthe night advancetickets sells forManalistation (Rs ( is onlywaytoreach Manali byroad. stoprunningoverbuses this theRohtang La, to mid-October. Oncethepublicandprivate Share toManali jeeps andKargil runfromJuly SHARE JEEPS 500 perday. various 100ccto125ccmotorcyclesforRs Bazar) Main claims. check thatyouare insured forthird-party PhyangChoglamsar, andKargil. Always aretion, buttheonlypetrolstations atLeh, rentBazar outmotorcyclesforlocalexplora- placesonChangspa RdandMainSeveral MOTORCYCLE leave frombehindthePoloGroundat5am. toSrinagar(Rs800)andKargilbuses (Rs500) to Saturday).Bookthedaybefore. Private 10 hours) andSrinagar(Rs490/620,Monday J&KSRTC 378 % The Adventure Himalaya Discover Regular jeeps toKargilRegular jeeps (Rs500,12hours) BUSES TO/FROMWESTERNLADAKH ubk 9 ½ 6am 8½ 190 Mulbekh 33 Likir 6am 4pm 2 5½ Lamayuru 101 (Kargil 78 Khalsi 3pm 8am 4½ Alchi 54 3 8am, (Rs) Departures Duration (Kargil Destination Fare bus) 4pm (hr) bus), 252723) AAH • e LADAKH ••Leh ( rents mopeds forRs400perdayand % Ladakh TaxiLadakh OperatorsCooperative atthenorthendof themainbus 252085) ( % buses leave buses fromthegov- 252723; Fort Rd; 252723; Fort (Map p371 ; (Map Ladakh TaxiLadakh Opera-

h 7am-7pm) % 250353; of- trucks between Manalitrucks between andLeh. problem, particularlyon driving isaserious inmindthatdrink than thebusfare. Bear butthisisrarely cheaper Ladakh, throughout Goods truckspickuppayinghitchhikers TRUCK the lowseason. days Rs5542/6931).Ask aboutdiscountsin (Rs 1910),andtheNubraValley (two/three and Hemis (Rs1047),Alchi, LikirandRizong prices; populartours includeShey, Thiksey Nubra, Kargil andManali. the Theunionsets you down). take you up, gravity (jeeps takesdung La cycle tours toPangong Tso andthe Khar- for Rs250to500 perday.Italsoarranges ChangspaLane) bikers.com; layan Bikers accessible byrented bike. InChangspa, The gompasof theIndusValley are easily BICYCLE morning tripstothebusstand. beforetown. Arrange the night ataxi forearly Taxis charge Rs50to70forshort tripsaround TAXI yourground. up ifyoustand 5. Somedrivers toutforhotels butmostgive andflagdownapublicbusforRs the highway tral foraroundRs110,oryoucanwalkto Leh The prepaid offers stand taxi transfers tocen- TO/FROM AIRPORT Getting Around Manali 11,729 Manali - - 11,000 Keylong 4272 Kargil - Thiksey 382 Stok 329 463 Stakna 595 Spituk 168 468 732 Shey 242 248 Phyang 454 575 Matho 305 572 855 Likir 747 Lamayuru 2260 2737 Hemis 868 1083 Alchi 1084 995 Fare 1336 Return Destination One-way (Rs) Fare (Rs) Other fares includethefollowing:

Mp p369 ; (Map rents bikes outmountain % 250937; www.thehimalayan lonelyplanet.com Hima- JAMMU & KASHMIR 379 1 Spituk to Zingchen 7-8 to Stage Route camp (hr) 1 Spituk Hankar Duration 2 La and 7-8 3 to Zingchen to Yurutse Ganda 4 to Skiu via Yurutse 5 Markha via 6 La 4-5 Skiu to Markha 7 Sumdo Hankar to Nimaling 6-7 Kongmaru Nimaling to Shang 8 Martselang 7-8 9 Shang Sumdo to 6-7 6 Martselang to Hemis 4-5 3-4 1 Stok to Mankarmo Base 4-5 to Stage Route Base Kangri (hr) 1 Stok Duration 2 Kangri Stok Camp Mankarmo to Base 3 Stok 4 Kangri Camp to High Camp High Camp to 5 Stok 3-4 summit to Stok Kangri Base Camp 3-4 Camp to Stok 6-7 4-5 SPITUK TO MARKHA VALLEY & HEMIS & HEMIS VALLEY SPITUK TO MARKHA ASCENT OF STOK KANGRI KANGRI OF STOK ASCENT

From Spituk, the route follows the Zingchen the Zingchen follows From Spituk, the route a one-day acclimatisation stop en route. On a one-day acclimatisation stop en route. descent the pass, it’s a steady the far side of Skiu. of and the village Valley to the Markha village, you to Markha Another day will take from the base can be completed camp to Stok , for de- above text, in one day. See the boxed trek. tails of & HEMIS VALLEY SPITUK TO MARKHA eight-The trailhead for this popular or nine- is Spituk Gompa, though taxis can day trek a few you as far as Rumbuk, shaving take the journey. It is also leg of off the first hours from Stok, or from possible to start this trek the Zanskar Chiling on the west bank of River, crossing by cableway. Ganda La (4920m), with for two days to Valley . LADAKH •• Trekking in Ladakh Trekking in the Indian Himalaya in the Trekking

Trekkers are normally roped together for normally roped together are Trekkers Food supplies should be carried from Leh,

Starting from Stok, the trail passes through The following are some of the most popular some of The following are Trekking agencies in Leh offer inclusive inclusive in Leh offer agencies Trekking airplane on the flight into Leh. The descent clear days, the views across the Indus Valley clear days, the views across the Indus Valley and Himalaya rival what you see from the the ascent to the snow-blanketed summit, summit, the ascent to the snow-blanketed by billowing prayer flags. On is marked which stop above the snowline at Stok Kangri High the snowline at Stok Kangri stop above Camp (5300m). you can achieve the summit and return in one the summit and return you can achieve with a secondgruelling day, or play it safe Kangri base camp at 4800m, with an overnight base camp at 4800m, with an overnight Kangri From here, acclimatisation stop at Mankarmo. green pastures then rugged desert then rugged to the Stok pastures green conditions above the snow line and allow the snow line and allow conditions above acclimatisation time. plenty of This dramatic 6120m peak looms over the 6120m peak looms over This dramatic Stok, across the valley from Leh. De- of village the elevation, trekkers spite pre-acclimatised days. four to five the ascent in can complete for cold carry clothing However, you should ASCENT OF STOK KANGRI ASCENT OF STOK KANGRI routes. Serious trekkers should refer to Lonely should refer Seriousroutes. trekkers Planet’s more on responsible trekking. trekking. on responsible more minimise your consumption of firewood and firewood minimise of your consumption for p98 with you – seecarry out all your litter king routes. Carry a gas or liquid fuel stove to Carryking routes. a gas or liquid fuel stove as there are few places to stay or eat on trek- few are as there sure that you are clear what the fee is covering; is covering; fee clear what the that you are sure services the if any of are paid for you have things fixes agent missing, demand that the you leave. before See p373 for a list of reliable operators. Check Check operators. reliable for a list of p373 See setting out and make before provided the gear treks with a guide, packhorses, food and sup- treks per day. per person plies for around US$60 you for emergency helicopter evacuation. helicopter you for emergency and join an organised trek. Whichever way you Whichever trek. and join an organised insurance covers your travel that sure go, make into trouble. Unless you are experienced with Unless you are into trouble. and survivalnavigation at altitude, play it safe but independent trekking is risky; trails are are is risky; trails trekking but independent be hard to find, can food and water unmarked, get people to help if you few are and there is essential to avoid AMS – see Health ( p1188 ). p1188 ( AMS – seeis essential avoid to Health throughout possible the summer, are Treks spirational trekking country, but many routes routes country, but many spirational trekking 5000m, so proper acclimatisation climb above TREKKING IN LADAKH IN LADAKH TREKKING Ladakh in- some provide The mountains of lonelyplanet.com JAMMU & KASHMIR Zanskar Range andriver. Range Zanskar Youcancomplete offering giddyingviewsofDung La, the before ashortdescenttoSumdoChinmu. impressive viewsof theEast Range therecrossing thepass. are FromKonzeLa dayisrecommendedan acclimatisation before (4950m),where ofto Hinjuatthebase KonzeLa ancient gompaatWanla. Anotherdaytakes you ley andclimbsover (3750m)tothe PrinkitiLa Alchi, Stok andPadum inZanskar. include trekking destinationsfromLamayuru Indus Valley River. viatheZanskar Alternative andreturns Range tothe traverses theZanskar Gompa,thistrek fromLamayuru Starting DUNG LA LAMAYURU TOCHILINGVIA theboxedthe route (see text, p374 ). springingupalong atthehomestays is tosleep ley duringthetrekking Analternative season. theMarkhamodation andmealsthrough Val- theboxedSee text, p379 of, fordetails trek. long dayortwodayswithastopinMartselang. Gompa. This laststage canbecompleted inone at Shang Sumdobefore youdescendtoHemis After crossingthepassthere’s anothercamp with knee-trembling viewsnorthandsouth. again to (5030m),alofty eyrie Kongmaru La pastures at Nimaling. where the trail climbsagaintorollingyak 380 The followingstage ascendsthe4820m Parachute-tented campsoffer basicaccom- Heading theval- toChiling,thetrailcrosses From Nimaling,thepathstrainsupwards DUNG LA LAMAYURU TO CHILINGVIA Dn ugL 6 ChilingviaDung 3 basecampto Dung Dung La Dung La 5-6 5 La SumdoChinmu to viaKonzeLa base 4-5 3-4 toSumdoChinmu 4 KonzeLabasecamp camp WanlatoKonzeLa La WanlaviaPrinkiti 3 base Lamayuruto 2 Duration 1 camp (hrs) Stage Route AAH • rudLh LADAKH ••AroundLeh in themiddleof Phyang. inlovely set guesthouse, lawnsandgardens day Markha Valley trek toHemis ( p379 ). tographs outover theairportarmybase. ( p351 ) inJanuary. cautiousof pho- taking Be Chaam Vajrabhairava andbull-headedYamantaka. sive of statues theprotector deities,including halls feature finemuralsandsomeimpres- order.15th centurybytheGelukpa Theprayer Gompa Spituk Crowning asmallhillbehindtheairport, Spituk the doors. butyoumayhaveset, tofindamonkopen usually opentovisitors tosun- fromsunrise gompas onthewestbankof theIndus. toKaruChoglamsar provides accesstothe the roadtoManali. Thebackroadfrom andShey Thiksey lieonwhile Choglamsar, and Phyang are reached viatheKargil road, motorcycle orpublicbus(see p377 ). Spituk interesting byrented daytrips fromLeh monasterieslages thatmake andmedieval The IndusValley isstrewn withsmallvil- % AROUND LEH Lama hasa Lama ofto thousands Tibetan refugees andtheDalai Almost asuburbof Leh, ishome Choglamsar Choglamsar 60, s/dwithshared bathroomRs150/250) North Hidden at aserene onlybytheseasons. pacedictated Tsedup festival thangka other protector deities.Every thirdyear,agiant gokhang whilethesmaller okitesvara and Amitabha, main chamber hasimpressive of statues Aval- (admission Rs25) the mainroadtopicturesque About 5kmpastSpituk,atrackrunsnorthfrom Phyang bine thistrek withtheMarkha Valley trek. left of, fordetails thetrek. Somepeoplecom- theboxed See byevening. text,back inLeh the journeytoChilinginalongdayandbe The gompasinthefollowingvillages are Life inthevillage farmsand orchards moves Spituk isthemaintrailheadforseven- 01982 dancesare heldforthe isunveiled here aspartof the contains statues of statues Mahakalacontains and , founded in the 16th century. The , foundedinthe16thcentury.The ( % photang ( p351 ) inJulyandAugust. (admission Rs20) 226007; www.hiddennorth.com; tentRs 226007; www.hiddennorth.com; (ceremonial residence) wasbuiltinthe lonelyplanet.com is a delightful isadelightful Phyang Phyang Gompa Gu-Stor festival Phyang Phyang

JAMMU & KASHMIR 381 Royal Royal Shey Shey (5289m) Chang La Thiksey Tso (60km) is still a is still a To Pangong

Nubra Valley R a n g e River Upshi

Indus Manali (436km) Takthog Peak River Karu To Keylong (316km); (6400m) (official residence) (official residence) Miru Kangyaze

Shyok Chemrey 00 20 km 12 miles Stakna 264081; r with shared bath- 264081; r with shared (5602m) Thiksey Shey 8am-7pm May-Oct) Khardung La South Pullu Chogdo North Pullu % Sumur Shang Sumdo is practically a town in- Choglamsar (

Sankar h Tegar Hemis Leh photang photang Khalsar Stakna Gompa Kongmaru La (5030m) Martselang Matho Stok Khardung Lughzun Spituk Phyang Diskit

S t o k R a n g e Nimaling Markha offers a warm, family welcome and offers (6121m) offer heart-stopping views over the the heart-stopping views over offer Stok Kangri Phey (admission Rs 20)

. The gold-roofed building on the edge edge building on the . The gold-roofed (5020m) (admission Rs 20; Hunder Rubrang La Nimmu Zingchen Skiu Yurutse Rumbuk Down a lane opposite the palace, the tidy Down a lane opposite Just east of the palace is a field of giant giant the palace is a field of Just east of Basgo (4920m) Ganda La Thiksey Gompa Thiksey Gompa glorious Shey, of 2km south About Gompa monks live of Hundreds side a monastery. huts that cover and work in the whitewashed The main gompa has two prayer the hillside. contains a chamber – the eastern chambers tains a two-storey gilded copper statue of gilded copper statueof tains a two-storey Sakyamuni (the historical Buddha), installed in 1645. Behind by a pre- the palace, reached the ruins of carious scramble along the ridge, Shey fort Indus Valley. surrounding the tiny chortens, white Gompa is the the valley of lama. the local of Besthang Guest House damaged by time and the elements, the damaged Palace Palace there’s a sunny, flower-filled garden. a sunny, flower-filled there’s room Rs 200) place of worship and the prayer room con- and the prayer room worship place of Likir

Markha River Tilat Sumdo

L a d a k h Saspol La (4820m) Dung Dung

V a l l e y Chiling River Alchi Rizong Buddha Cha Cha Sumdo Chinmu La (4950m)

R a n g e Temisgam on the main Hinju (5050m)

I n d u s Pishu (4950m) Zanskar Singge La on the main road Khalsi Konze La Mahabodhi Medita- Photaksar Snertse clinic and a centre clinic and a centre momos Dhumkhar Hanumil (20km) To 244074; dm Rs 100, r Rs 200- (3750m) Honupatta Skurbuchan Lamayuru Prinkiti La % (4950m) ( Biama Sisir La (4850m) amchi amchi

Hanuma La Phey ; the website has details.; the website You ) Hanu-Do LADAKH •• Around Leh (3760m)

River Z a n s k a r 264372; www.mahabodhi-ladakh.org; dm Bodh is run by a friendly, mother- i Kharbu Chiktan

Indus % ( Dha Fotu La (4147m) meditation at the River Apr-Sep)

To Kargil (120km) Stod

Rangdum Gompa h

Mulbekh Near the gompa, this spic and span Travellers with a spiritual inclination can Travellers There are plenty of roadhouse-style restau- plenty of are There (4401m) AROUND LEH AROUND Pensi La To Kargil (40km); Srinagar (245km) (5255m) Kanji La

the summer capital of Ladakh.the summer capital of Although Shey Shey once was Shey Leh, 15km southeast of About 300; but shared lady. Bathrooms are ing, Tibetan are meals is hot and home-cooked the water available. Garden Guesthouse rants serving and beers road. can stay here even if you don’t take a course. a course. even if you don’t take can stay here tion Centre tion Centre Rs 150, r 350-500; vipassana turn-off for the back road to Stok, Matho, for the back road to Stok, Matho, turn-off Stakna and Hemis. in courses and 10-day residential three- take ditional Tibetan ditional Tibetan for Buddhist studies. Choglamsar is also the Karma Dupgyud Choeling Gompa camp itself, has a tra- which and the refugee here for official visits. Sights include the large for official visits. Sights include the large here lonelyplanet.com JAMMU & KASHMIR h peted roomsoverlooking thekitchen garden. restaurants. ensuitewith comfortable roomsandgood from Rs1800) and similar shared bathroomRs150; lage house, of andotherdeities. Stok Gompa head. About 1kmnorthof thepalaceistiny peak of StokKangri (6120m)loomingover- andfieldswiththe whitewashed farmhouses thepalace,peacefullaneswindpast Behind oracles make predictions aboutthefuture. tant museum. –are displayedinthepalace Royal tea service votive objects, including ceremonial robes,jewellery, sion inManali. Many of thefamilytreasures – stately time between a comparatively modestlife, dividingtheir of theirpowerin1846,theroyals nowlive royalfamily.Stripped home totheLadakhi Crossing over theIndus, Stok istheofficial Stok meals. Indo-Chinese serving and there’s asmallgardenandrestaurant Roomshaveplace tostay. private bathrooms ( smaller localfestivals. Sand mandalasare often prepared here for travagant masked dancesfor in October andNovember, holdsex- Thiksey from the at 7am,which features chanting synchronised ing the gompain15thcentury. and treasures datingbacktothefoundingof muralsofber contains flayedhumanbeings ignorance of thephysicalworld. Arear cham- ful aspecttoshow fromthe theirdetachment humanswhohaveenlightened adopted afear- ofhas wonderfulstatues elled headdress, whilethewestern chamber (the future Buddha)inamagnificentjew- of statue Maitreyamesmerising 14m-high 382 % Downhill fromthepalaceare thevery Run bythegompa,genteel Most peoplecomehere fortheearlymorn- 8am-1pm &2-7pmMay-Oct) Close to the palace and set inahumble vil- tothepalaceandset Close In February/March, Stokholdstheimpor- puja 267011; [email protected];rRs300) Guru Tse-Chu festival Guru Tse-Chu Hotel Skittsal Skittsal Hotel AAH • rudLh LADAKH ••AroundLeh Hotel Highland Hotel (literally ‘respect’; offering orprayers) sutras , upmarket Ladakhi-style buildings , upmarket Ladakhi-style , withretouched muralsandstatues Kalden Guesthouse Kalden (Buddhistbooks).Every year thangkas, ( h % Stok Palace

May-Oct) 242051; www.skittsal.com; r 242051; www.skittsal.com; ( % 31) wee h royal the where ( p351), andaprivate man- 242005; rfromRs1000) photosandthe hassimple,car- dharmapalas –

( % Gu-Stor

(admission Rs25; istheonly Chamba Hotel 242057; rwith ( p351 ).

has abasiccamping plotandsimplemeals. The revered Hemis Gompa miniature suspensionbridge. andwalkacrossthe turn-off near theStakna Manali Hwy–askthedriver toletyoudown frescoes datingbacktothe16thcentury. are three, interlinked prayerrooms,somewith ence isobviousfromthemuralsinside. There influ- a lamafromBhutan,andtheBhutanese ing theIndus.Themonastery wasfoundedby Gompa Across thefloodplainfromMatho, little Stakna coming year. mutilation before makingpredictions forthe blindfolded, thenengage inritualactsof self- cles carryoutdaringactsof acrobatics while in February andMarch, themonastery ora- Sakyamuni, Avalokitesvara andMaitreya. of somestrikingmuralsandstatues contain to theobscure Theprayerrooms Sakyasect. belonging is theonlymonastery inLadakh views over thevalleyare stupendousandthis valley onanimpregnable rockybuttress. The Matho Gompa About 10kmsoutheastof Stok,monumental Matho carved with mantras). carved the winding Leh–Manali roadatKaru andmake aleftnear &Camping Hemis Restaurant bathrooms. Justdownhillfromthe gompa, butcleanmonks’ cellswithsharedmentary Retreat popeyed glory. of statue Padmasambhava8m-high inallhis The nextceremony isin2016.Upstairs isan is unfurledfromthetopof themonastery. a massive 12m-wideandfour-storeys – high 12 years, thelargest festival Tse-Chu formaskedcourtyard, used dancesduringthe thangka withthree and grandestgompasinLadakh, the fussisabout.Thisoneof the largest comes intoview,you’llunderstand what narrow gorge, butassoonthemonastery is screened fromtherest of thevalleybya You canget here bybusalongtheLeh– During theannual If youcomebymotorcycle, turnoff the ofIn thebasement thegompa,

(admission Rs20) ( % -filled prayerhallsfrontingontoavast 249011; rRs200; (admission Rs20)

mani gompa ( p351 ) inJuneandJuly.Every crownsahillockoverlook- wall (made fromstones (admission Rs30) thangka Nagrang festival h soars above high the

(camping pertentRs100) Jun-Sep) lonelyplanet.com in Ladakh – in Ladakh offers rudi- Hemis Spiritual Hemis Spiritual at Hemis ( p351) Stakna

JAMMU & KASHMIR 383 (sea around buckthorn bush). Dotted Because of the requirement to visit in a to visit in a Because the requirement of However, only you do need permit, which a up booked often that guesthousesNote are At first glance, the valley seems glance, At first and parched There’s a limited public bus service a limited There’s around the Diskit valley, Monday to Saturday. Buses leave at 8am and 3pm, for Sumur (Rs 25, two hours) at similar times the following day. returning (Rs 45, The 8am bus continues to Panamik Local buses hours 2½ hours). run every few and Hunder for Rs 10. between Disket Wednesday, Friday and Sunday mornings Wednesday, Friday and Sunday mornings (the road closes every Monday for repairs). four, most people visit on a tour ar- group of in Leh. Expect agent through a travel ranged to pay US$60 per day, including accommoda- the permit you can arrange tion. Alternatively, inde- and then travel agent through a travel . However, p376 pendently by jeep bus – see or been known to turn back groups have soldiers at the Khardung than four less La,of even permit. with the correct Getting Around allows travel as far as Hunder and Panamik as far as Hunder and Panamik allows travel seven days – seefor a maximum of the boxed photocopies of . You must hand over p366 tex, the Khardung La of your permit on both sides Sumur. to and also by the bridge a room in – arrange by tour groups in summer night a chilly advance unless you fancy under In all the sleeping in this the stars. places listed costs Rs 10 to 20. hot water section, bucket Getting There & Away Traffic Nubra can only cross the towards Khardung La from dawn until 10am; vehicles the use of exclusive heading to Leh then have to road from 1pm to 6pm. From November traffic Nubra-bound can use the road May, and Saturday morn- on Tuesday, Thursday to trafficings, while Leh-bound is restricted ing is crusted in permafrost and the Border the Border and in permafrost crusted ing is battle an ongoing faces Organisation Roads the pass open through and au- to keep winter tumn. Beyond flat Nubra the pass is the wide, crisscrossed channels by the winding Valley, Rivers. and Nubra the Shyok of Ladakhi is prime farming land by dry, but this and grow apples, apricots standards. Farmers barley and harvest the berries of the orange tsestalulu and ruined pal- ancient gompas the valley are close to enough are together aces, and villages walking country. this magnificent make

, at Shakti Thekchhok chowkidar chowkidar , just north Takthog Gompa Takthog in Leh. (see p351 ). fort (s/d Rs 200/350)

252094) % (

. Built in the 17th century, . Built in the 17th century, village, 40km before the lake. the lake. 40km before village, Valley LADAKH •• Chemrey is the only Nyingmapa monastery village is dominated by the beauti- is dominated village J&K Tourist Bungalow Tangtse Chemrey Angchok festival (admission Rs 20)

01982 You can only visit with a permit, arranged The only accommodation in the valley is

Buses to Shakti (Rs 35, 1½ hours) leave leave (Rs 35, 1½ hours) Buses to Shakti Some 7km north of Shakti, tiny Shakti, Some 7km north of Beyond Chemrey, the road climbs to Beyond the road climbs Chemrey, Chemrey pass in the world. Even in summer, the cross- pass in the world. Even % the rough road runs north over From Leh, a Khardung La, the highest motorable awesome day trip, but you may be able to find accommo- to day trip, but you may be able dation in NUBRA VALLEY turn back at Spangmik, about 7km along theturn back at Spangmik, about a long during Most visits are southwest shore. through a travel agent in Leh, and visitors must in Leh, visitors and agent through a travel is brackish with mineral saltsis brackish and the wind- beauty. a wild, melancholy have blown shores which runs east for 130km into Tibet. The lake The lake runs east for 130km into Tibet. which system opens up, backing onto the Karakoram the Karakoram opens up, backing onto system the valley floor is covered Mountains. Most of Tso, Pangong of rippling waters by the gently Pangong Tso Pangong Tso Beyond Chang La, valley another breathtaking regularly from the main bus station in Leh, or regularly a taxi for the day for Rs 1100. you can hire Takthog, but you’ll have to find the but you’ll have Takthog, Book with the to open the doors. (attendant) Tourist Reception Centre the basic road climbs to the Wari La (5273m), a possible into the Nubra Valley. starting point for treks in the upper Indus. The prayer chamber is set prayer chamber in the upper Indus. The Padmasambhava sage the great where in a cave the in the 8th century. From here, meditated (admission Rs 20) a sprawling farming village with a large army army with a large a sprawling farming village a huge base and the ruins of There are masked dances here in November in November dances here masked are There for the 1000 Buddhas and a chamber on the 4th floor 1000 Buddhas and a chamber has a 3m-high Padmasambhava. statue of Gompa the the main prayer hall contains murals of fully proportioned, but little visited, but little visited, fully proportioned, CHEMREY VALLEY VALLEY CHEMREY north towards road branches a side At Karu, Chang La the third-highest (5289m), motor- of the world. The lower reaches able pass in by bus or accessible are Valley Chemrey the taxi, need but you the pass a permit to cross Tso. at Pangong lake serene and visit the lonelyplanet.com on the road to Takthog. on the road to Takthog. JAMMU & KASHMIR amik and Rs 3300 to Leh, amik andRs3300toLeh, Hunder, Rs1035toSumur,1775Pan- yond Khalsar, theroadforks;leftbranch yond Khalsar, which hasafew teahouses fortruckers. Be- photang che The gompaholds amajor festival for ofchamber demonicprotectors. witheffigies stairs is adramaticlookout,andsecond huge Maitreya andagiantdrum.Up- statue to themainprayerhall,which enshrinesa in themiddleof thevillage. Stonesteps climb nearthestreamroad orthedirttrackstarting Gompa main attractionhere isthe17th-century usual cluster of whitewashed The farmhouses. governmentseveral inadditiontothe offices town intheNubraValley, which meansithas bank of theShyok River, Diskit isthemain Sprawling over thefloodplainonsouth elev 3144m Diskit to SumurandPanamik. branchwhile theright followsNubraRiver follows theShyok River toDiskitandHunder, valley floorandthedustyvillage of scrubby trees. ofbut friendlygompahiddenbehind abaffle Khardung direction of travel. or SouthPulluuntiltheroadopensinyour ing, youmayendupstuckineitherNorth of theNubrapermit.Ifyoumisjudge thetim- eigners againregister andhandover acopy campat the military motorable roadintheworld. thehighest onthebackforsurviving yourself they soarover theHimalayaandyoucanpat desolate, as but theviewsare whateaglessee lofty wallischilly and cleftinthemountain uptothe dust right road isacrudelydrawnlineof gravel and register andshowpermits.Fromhere, the camp at OctoberandMay.road fordaysbetween the round, butsnowandrockfallscanclose The roadtoNubraisofficially openyear- Leh toDiskit 384 Beyond Khardung, theroaddives Khardung, tothe Beyond From NorthPullu,theroadwindsdownto Jeeps charge atDiskitbusstand Rs 250to On thefarside,roadslipsandslidesto The first stopontheroute isthemilitary (see (see p351 ) inFebruary. Downhillisthe AAH • ur aly LADAKH ••NubraValley (admission Rs20) (official residence) of the headlama , ayak-herdingvillage withasmall South Pullu Khardung La Khardung , where foreigners must , reached byawinding North Pullu North at5602m.This , where for- Khalsar Dosmo- Diskit Diskit , across theroad. block, plusapeacefulmeadowcampground mud-brick andanewerhotel farmhouse Diskit,withroomsinanold road through round) bathroominold/newbldgRs300/700; d withprivate permanent tentRs250,d/trwithshared bathroomRs200/250, sunflower gardenfacingthe fers aneclecticmixof inashaded rooms,set room Rs250/500; in thegarden. welcome iswarmandyoucanpitch yourtent withanewblockoffarmhouse rooms.The thisisafamily andoff totheright, wheel son Rs100,rfrom200) private courtyard. lage shop. Roomsare large andthere’s abig doublesasthevil- road, thisbigwhite house Rs 70,rwithout/withbathroom150/300) themiddleofthat cutsthrough thevillage. main road,aroundthewhitewashed inDiskitareMost guesthouses southof the SLEEPING &EATING buildings inaflower-filled garden. More ex- ontheway intothevillage, withseveral affair tent Rs100,rwithout/with bathroomRs200/400) the village.through onthe windingmainroad below thehighway, inHunderareThe guesthouses strungout SLEEPING &EATING up here isnotforthefainthearted. scramble inspirational views,buttheexposed quarters. The and theruinsof avastcompound of pilgrims’ climbs totwocrumblingBuddhisttemples tery attendant. Across theroad,acrudetrail ofstatue Chamba;ask aroundforthemonas- squat village. Immediately before thebridge isthe as farthebridge atthewestendof the trees at Hunder. Foreigners canonlytravel ing thesprawlof andscrubby farmhouses wide area of rolling dunes beforesand reach- a through passes Diskit,thehighway Beyond Hunder Chamba (Maitreya). of Nubra,dwarfed byanenormous Olthang GuestHouse GuestHouse Sunrise GuestHouse Karakoram Snow LeopardGuest House Kharyok GuestHouse Kharyok Arapidlyexpandingplaceonthemain Hunder Gompa Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com h fort fort year-round) at thetopof theridge offers Downhillfromtheprayer , containing alarge, containing gilded (

%

( ( % % (

% 220011; rwithout/withbath- Nearby, Sunrise of- Nearby,Sunrise 220050; campingpertent ( 220067; owntentRs70,

% 220024; campingperper- mani 221097; campingper Onthemain wall. Aplush mani statue h wall year- of of JAMMU & KASHMIR

(r Ensa . 385 Pinchimik Next to the Namgyal Guest- Hot Springs Guest- Right at the back , both friendly vil- 223537; camping per person winds along the bot- LP Namgail Guesthouse % 223544; r with private bathroom ( 223506; r Rs 250) % % and ( (

Tso MoririTso North of the centre in Tegar, this in Tegar, the centre North of 247043; r without/with bathroom Rs 200/300) 223505; camping per person Rs 70, r without/with % . ( % (

Opposite the hot springs, Opposite Largyal Guesthouse Hotel Yarabtso are the high school North of AO Guesthouse Western Himalaya about 240km southeast Himalaya about Western from mildly brackish are Leh. The waters of the surround- mineral salts dissolving out of by no- is inhabited ing rocks and the area across Khampa people, who migrate madic goats, cows and the Himalaya with herds of Panamik Panamik elev 3183m of Sumur, the village of 28km north About is the most northerly point open Panamik Although not particu- in India. to foreigners hot springs some dingy are larly scenic, there at bridge 8km to the river and you can trek remote and on to the stunningly Hargam Gompa house decent rooms and hot meals to the few offers who stay overnight. visitors RUPSU VALLEY Framed by humbling mountain scenery, the of lake serene with bathrooms, plus a family room with low with bathrooms, plus a family Ladakhi beds. Rs 1000-1800) to house caters village converted tastefully luxury. a little more tour groups looking for a day on the enticing after beds are The soft colour. road and the garden is a riot of house bathroom Rs 300/400) houses lage with spacious rooms and huge gardens. against the tucked Rupsu Valley, the tom of thousands of votive clay tablets left here by pil- tablets clay left here votive thousands of medieval another There’s on the Silk Rd. grims north at kilometres gompa a few SLEEPING out spread Sumur’s guesthouses are Most of prayer striking east from the along the lane hot water wheel the main road. Bucket on Rs 20. costs Rs 10 to Rs 50, r with shared bathroom Rs 250) bathroom Rs Rs 50, r with shared of the village, this place benefits from a quiet this place benefits from the village, of farm atmosphere. location and a working Jammu & Kashmir Bank, this place has a de- & Kashmir Jammu plain rooms of and a range cent restaurant without/with bathroom Rs 250/300)

A Zam- 267011 % LADAKH •• Rupsu Valley , with a school , with a school 221048; r from Rs 200) 221041; r without/with 221158; tent Rs 75, s with % % (

(

% (

221083; r without/with bathroom %

( Even closer to the gompa, Even (Tiger), with a small, adobe with a small, adobe (Tiger), A newish and bright abode. , a former residence of the kings of , a former residence Samstemling Gompa Tegar GETTING THE HUMP GETTING HUMP THE of the Silk Route, behind from the days Left Bactrian still some shaggy (two- are there the camels in the sand dunes of humped) of inscrutable beasts These Nubra Valley. saf- for sand-dune be hired burden can Diskitaris between or longer and Hunder, at local the valley. Ask excursions around start guesthouses – rates 500 at around Rs per hour. Further north on the main road is the small Moon Land Guest House Jamshed Guest House The monks at Thiksey Gompa run a luxury Goba Guesthouse Milky Way Guest House of Nubra, surrounded by tiny stupas filled with of the road are the burnt-out ruins of the the burnt-out ruins of the road are skhang Palace village of of village gompa enshrining a giant prayer wheel. Above is the huge is the huge green settlement with some interesting Bud- settlement with some interesting green uphill from Sumur 1km About dhist relics. monks and a number friendly novice full of quite old and modern prayer halls full of of murals. distinguished matic gorge runs north along the Nubra River. runs north along the Nubra River. matic gorge a pretty, here, village Sumur is the largest elev 3096m the valley, another dra- On the far side of tented camp at Hunder in the summertime; tented contact on the gompa committee Sumur the Milky Way is another village housethe Milky Way is another village that has been modernised. sensitively Rooms are tidy and clean. bathroom Rs 300/350) from Rs 200/500) the sound of trickling streams. The owners The owners trickling streams. the sound of English. speak limited Signposted off the road, this pretty white- this pretty the road, off Signposted rustic rooms and washed farmhouse offers family home and several or you outbuildings, can camp in the garden. place offers large village-style rooms in the village-style large place offers pensive rooms have geysers (hot-water heat- (hot-water geysers rooms have pensive in the bathrooms. ers) Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book shared bathroom Rs 300, d with privateshared bathroom Rs 350) for details. short stroll from the gompa, this well-tended this well-tended short stroll from the gompa, JAMMU & KASHMIR is one of the highlights ofis oneof the IndusValley. the highlights a smallbutatmosphericgompa. shore, thewind-scoured village of four- tofive-day trek. thelake- Overlooking way toManali orKeylong. many peoplevisitthelake asadetouronthe go. Jeep costUS$60perday; tripsfromLeh beings even coverbeings even the ceiling.Themain build- niques; images of and celestial bodhisattvas restored using traditional colours andtech- spectacularly The muralworkinside hasbeen compound. citadel havetee joinedforcestorestore theancient Welfarebut UnescoandtheBasgo Commit- World Heritage site wascrumblingintodust, united Untilrecently, atLeh. thisfascinating before thekingdom was oftal lowerLadakh About 40kmwestof Leh, wasthecapi- Basgo Basgo getting tothefollowingtowns,see p377 . Phyang and Kargil. Formore informationon aware thatthere are between nopetrolstations checked andmotorcyclistsshould atKhalsi, be see by publicbusfromLeh; p377 . Passports are All thevillages alongthevalleyare accessible cling tothesidesof smallrivers andstreams. small islandsof green, where farmsandvillages colours of are thedesert occasionallybroken by to Kashmir. Thisisrugged country,butthe dun barren wasteland thatstretches mostof theway Nimmu,theroadtoKargilBeyond enters a % WEST OFLEH and theroute isvery poorlysignposted. there However, drifting sand. are nogoodmaps of formotorcyclesbecause cycles butdifficult and take water, includingfoodandpotable from Leh, yourequire tobringeverything You’ll need informal campsite bythegompainKorzok. modation forindependenttravellers isthe atravelthrough agent theonlyaccom- inLeh; smaller lake of a striking of There’s a19th-centurygompainthevillage well askiang(wildass),foxes andmarmots. chance rare of Himalayan seeing birds, as . agood isplentiful–youstand 386 The road to Korzok is OK for off-road The roadtoKorzokisOKforoff-road All visitors apermitarranged toRupsuneed About 50kmnorthof Tso Moririisthe Korzok Today, Basgo’s Today, Basgo’s 01982 AAH • eto e LADAKH ••WestofLeh , justwestof thelake, which alsohas everything photang Tso Kar Chamba Gompa . out withyouwhen , accessible by jeep ora , accessiblebyjeep (admission Rs20) Thukse Thukse has

standard villagestandard roomsinagiganticgarden. market. There’s anold-fashioned guesthouse lage road,theroomy in thegardenof theLikirMonastery School. rooms forRs200to300;campingispossible ary forthe Maitreya. front of of thegompaisagaudy 7mstatue emonial flute) madefromahumanfemur. In made fromahumanskulland objects –includinga 2-6pm, till4pmwinter) murals andaninteresting prayerroomsfullof and several statues can see by a40-minute trek alongtheriver. Inside,you century valley, thevillage of Likir ishometothe11th- About andtucked 68kmfromLeh intoaside % Likir here toPadum inZanskar. skar River. Aroadisslowlybeingbuiltfrom the green IndusandthemurkybrownZan- neartheconfluenceof2km backtowardsLeh are formealsinnearby roadhouses surrounding hills. ruins of the with anotheroutsizedMaitreya The statue. and there’s gompajustdownhill asecond atwo-storeying contains of statue Maitreya, the amazing muralsandsculptures at Alchi. the Buddhist monasteries of Kashmir tocreate inartists from whobought Ringchen Zangpo, the 11thcentury bytheGreat Translator, The complex wasfoundedin art inLadakh. represent thecrowninggloryof Indo-Tibetan south of theKargil road,thetemples of Alchi Clinging totheedge of anarrowgorge just Alchi toopenbythetimeyoureadtents, set this. trees, plusanew complexof semi-permanent campgroundundertheapricot and apleasant camping perpersonRs90,s/d350/400) Guest House&Camping way tothegompa. furthernorthonthe guesthouse run asecond free Indian orTibetan owners tea. Thesame includebreakfast,Rates lunch, dinner,and ( % Farmhouses above thegomparent basic hasnowhereBasgo butthere toeatorsleep Further alongthevillage road, Reached viaasmalltrackoff themainvil- 01982 227137; tentRs50,s/dhalf-board200/400) Klu-kkhyil Gompa Klu-kkhyil Chaam Dosmoche festival citadel with dances take placeinFebru- ( are scattered acrossthe

% Norboo SponGuestHouse thangkas (admission Rs20)

227151; [email protected]; 227151; [email protected]; museum (see (see p351 ). (ceremonial bowl) lonelyplanet.com ismoving up- andreligious kangling ( h Gaph-Chow Gaph-Chow , reached 8am-1pm & offers offers Nimmu (cer- ,

JAMMU & KASHMIR 387 Hid- Lamay- The The choktse (tent Rs 100,

(Buddhist Beautiful World Beautiful masks. Masked masks. Masked closed Sep-May) h ( p351 ). 253640; ulecamp@sancharnet , the oldest in Ladakh, . bodhisattvas bodhisattvas provides an education provides chaam chaam 255323; r Rs 150-300) % ( % festival (

A simple village house, offering house, A simple village offering (admission Rs 20) Yuru KabgyatYuru Chullichan Nunnery 01982 / elev 3390m Siachen Guesthouse & Camping Site

There’s no accommodation at Rizong, but at Rizong, no accommodation There’s Uley Ethnic Resort a taxi (Rs No buses run to Rizong, so hire Dragon Hotel The main attraction in Lamayuru is Set gompa, downhill from the in orchards the monastery school; contact school; the monastery home-cooked meals and traditionally fur- meals and traditionally home-cooked nished rooms with carpet beds and tables, plus a basic camping site. family home is in a charming Dragon Hotel with tidy rooms and a fabulous Ladakhi piled with pots and pans. Upstairs kitchen towers and ravines by the wind and rain. and ravines towers uru Gompa dating back to at least the 10th century. atop a towering cliff, pockmarked Perched has few the gompa with manmade caves, murals but the prayer halls contain jewelled statues of chortens, saints) and ancient in July for the three place here dances take day SLEEPING & EATING Lamayuru’s guesthouses all come with shared bathrooms. r Rs 250-350) 1570 return) or take any bus heading to Khalsi or take 1570 return) steepor beyond, and walk the 5km up the valley. Lamayuru % Lamayuru is set Leh, 125km from About a at the mouth of amongst eroded badlands this was According to legend, narrow gorge. but a Buddhist a deep lake once the bottom of saint prayed to the guardian spirits and the away. Geological miraculously drained water deposits around Lamayuru the do indicate drained perhaps a vanished lake, of presence silt has The remaining glacier. by a receding moonscape of into a bizarre been sculpted (www.beautifulworld.org.uk) welcome to You’re local villages. for girls from appreciated. is greatly visit, but a donation resorts. Saspol has several upmarket this rather orchards, den away amongst apple semipermanent of choice a grand place offers cottages, rooms in mud-brick or tasteful tents restaurant. around a safari tent arranged .in; r or tent with meals Rs 3000; .in; r or tent with meals Rs 3000; the the , , , 8am- This , with h Sumrtsek Lotsa Temple of Leh LADAKH •• West (admission Rs 20) Manjushri Temple 227104; s/d Rs 1300/ 227084; r without/with 227084; r without/with % (

(admission Rs 20; (admission Vairocana Temple Vairocana % (

Rizong Gompa Rizong 252520; s/d from Rs 850/1150) On the way into Alchi, be- On the way into Alchi, Down a lane on the way out % 227129; [email protected]; r with- (

are at the end of the main cobbled main cobbled the end of at the are % (

Chhoskhor Temples Chhoskhor Temples , with astounding murals depicting murals depicting , with astounding

A good midrange choice just above the above just choice A good midrange Samdupling Guest House Alchi Resort

Lotsava Choskor Guest House The rienced teachers may be able to volunteer at rienced teachers statues of Sakyamuni and Maitreya. Expe- Sakyamuni and Maitreya. statues of to the imposing crammed into dusty monks’ cells a stack of The two prayer an arid, rocky amphitheatre. murals and gilded soot-darkened halls have Rizong Rizong cuts north Saspol, a narrow gorge North of discounts are possible out of peak season. possible out of discounts are the luxury of 24-hour hot water. Generous 24-hour hot water. the luxury of the outside, but rooms are better than average than average better the outside, but rooms are is a blessing. hot water and the solar-heated compound of two-room huts is unlovely from two-room huts is unlovely compound of rooms get light from two sides. In summer, rooms get camp on the run a luxury tented the owners the village. of edge cosy Ladakhi-style hot rooms with bucket and corner Curtains a homy touch add water. meals Rs 2200-2700) farmhouse has square this huge the village, of out/with bathroom from Rs 200/300, permanent tent with meals are prepared in the traditional Ladakhi in the traditional prepared meals are and it’s open throughkitchen the winter. place has a nice village mood and large square square mood and large place has a nice village local the garden. Tasty rooms overlooking bathroom Rs 200/300) traveller-oriented this neath a rocky buttress, In summer, Alchi can get very crowded, but very can get In summer, Alchi almost everything closes for winter. Most of the guesthouses in Alchi are on lanes the guesthouses are in Alchi Most of from the main road to the gompa. leading off SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING & EATING hide vivid paintings inside. Photography is Photography hide vivid paintings inside. compound. banned inside the temple Manjushri. Also check out the unusual chort- out the Also check Manjushri. plain mud exteriors ens in the grounds; the with more , and the mandalas, and the with more statue of four-sided enshrining an enormous the rear of the compound are the are the compound of the rear thousands of Tantric deities and huge wooden deities and huge Tantric thousands of Avalok- and Manjushri Maitreya, statues of is Next along itesvara. street through the village. First is First through the village. street Temple 1pm & 2-6pm) At gigantic mandalas. full of chamber a rear Book accommodation online at lonelyplanet.com online at accommodation Book bus stand, with large, bright and bedrooms bus stand, with large, 1800) JAMMU & KASHMIR outdoor block. grungy roomswithshared squattoiletsinan (attendant) canarrange meals. Kargil. Roomsare cleanandthe of the Muslim incursion into Ladakh. Before Before of theMuslimincursion intoLadakh. valleys, Kargil marks theeasternmost extent The administrative centre forfoursurrounding % KARGIL ( basic roadhouse, bathroomRs100) (r withprivate thes unobtrusive uments before Muslim-dominated Kargil. Serdung AD 700.Uphillfromtownare thegompasof of rock-cutstatue Maitreya8m-high datingto tiny alongthehwy.Acrossroadis houses descending –adustystringofMulbekh tea- (3760m)before (4147m)andNamikaLa La theroadclimbsoverFrom Lamayuru, Fotu Mulbekh rooms are expensive forwhatyouget. goodfood,but are hotandtherestaurant serves is hungfromtheroof duringfestivals. Showers is runbythemonastery anda15m-high .com; dmRs100,s/d800/1000) dhist murals. rooms have gompaviewsandcolourfulBud- 388 % Directly opposite ChambaGompa,the Niranjana Hotel About sideof 1kmontheLeh thestatue, artificial flowers.artificial coverings, madefromsilver, beadsand Main Bazar–justlookfortheornate head- and vegetables atthesouthendofLeh’s kpa womenmostdayssellingdriedfruit butyoucanseeBro- tours toDah-Hanu, betan Buddhism.Travel agentsinLeh offer religion, whichprovided thebasisforTi- Great. MostBrokpafollowtheancientBon from theinvasionforceofAlexander conclude thatthetribewasdescended and faircomplexionhave ledmanyto lost tohistory,buttheirAryanfeatures The originswest ofKhalsi. ofthetribeare valley,north- people inhabittheDah-Hanu Also knownasDrokpaorDards,the Brok pa LOST TRIBES 01985 /elev2817m 270010, rwithshared bathroomRs 150) Chamba Gompa AAH • agl LADAKH ••Kargil and Gandentse

(admission Rs10) Paradise Hotel andRestaurant Paradise Hotel ( % J&KTDC Tourist Bungalow Tourist J&KTDC , thelastBuddhistmon- 224001; angchok1@rediffmail This upmarket option Thisupmarket option canbebooked in , centred onan , hasplain, chowkidar thangka

100/400; from RS350) the hill behind the hospital. the hillbehindhospital. steal fortheprice. There’s anicer annexe up is nexttothetouristoffice. Thedormsare a main road–justacoupleof roomsandbasic taxi stand, this placeissimple,cheap stand, andrea-taxi Sleeping &Eating Bungalows intheSuruValley. treks andmake bookingsforJ&KTDCTourist You canarrange guidesandcampinggear for down thelanenearShashila restaurant. h for Rs120anhour. internet cafés offerseveral slowconnections Siachen willchange cash atapoorrate and the lanesbranching downtotheriver. Hotel isarrangedeverything or alongthehighway, second-largestKargil townbut isLadakh’s Orientation &Information and anti-Jewish inthevalley. sentiments aware ofstones stillinside).Be anti-Indian Kargil apricotsinthebazaar(usuallywith above dried Localtraders thehospital. sell village of Goma(Upper)Kargil, asteep walk over, there are goodviewsfromthepeaceful forthetriptoZanskar.buses Ifyoudostop orchange SrinagarandLeh, journey between War andthetownremains heavily fortified. herewas fought duringthe1999Indo-Pakistan IndiaandPakistan.between Afamous battle onthefaultline buttodayitstands Zanskar, for caravans and travelling between Partition, Kargil tradingpost wasanimportant can change foreign cash(atalowrate). ally discounted by 30% to50%andthe manager agency, are restaurant andparking. Rates usu- on three floors aroundagarden,withtravel set hasrooms stand, down analleybehind thetaxi 1300/1800) here where youcharter toZanskar. jeeps union hasanoffice sonably clean.Thelocaltaxi plus aninternet cafédownstairs. shared bathroom facilitieswithcoldwater, dm Rs20,r100-150) vate bathrooms andgeysers. roomshaveUnless mentionedotherwise, pri- Popular Chacha Hotel Popular ChachaHotel The Hotel Siachen Hotel Bungalow Tourist J&KTDC Most visitors onlycomehere tobreak the Hotel Greenland Hotel 10am-4pm) i Tourist Reception Centre Centre Reception Tourist Thisupmarket chalet-style place, Down an alley beside the small local Downanalleybesidethesmalllocal ) Areal rock-bottom choice onthe Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com isbehind theshare-jeep stand,

( %

Themaintouristbungalow ( % 232221; off Main Bazar; s/d Rs from Bazar;s/dRsfrom 232221; offMain 232324/233388; off Main Bazar; r Bazar;r 232324/233388; offMain ( % ( %

233390; Main Bazar;s/qRs 233390; Main 232328; off Main Bazar; 232328; offMain

( % 232721; JAMMU & KASHMIR of 389 crum- 259110; r (7087m). % (

mausoleum , with a tourist Kun Tangole , set beneath the loom- Parkachik Glacier . (7135m) and Panikhar Nun (attendant) to open the doors. All to open the doors. (attendant) Khayoul Hotel & Restaurant is the starting point for treks to Drass is the starting treks point for From Sanku, the road climbs slowly to the Trekkers can find limited provision in the in provision can find limited Trekkers Zanskar’s days of isolation are numbered. numbered. Zanskar’s isolation are days of The road continues to The countryside becomes wilder and more The first part of the valley is green and and the valley is green part of The first From November to May, Zanskar to May, off is cut From November Sanku bles dramatically into the . bungalow used by trekking and mountaineer- bungalow used by trekking Nun and ascent of the ing groups attempting Kun. Further east, the the wind-scoured as the road enters barren chowkidhar chowkidhar basic rooms for Rs 100; the bungalows at offer and Rangdum also have Tangole Purtickchay, dorm beds for Rs 20. the village 40km from Kargil, About fertile. of at the and Mulbekh, and you can stop over tourist bungalow and visit the the Sufi saint Hashim. Sayed Mir of village pretty ing peaks of the , linking the capital, Padum, the Zanskar linking the capital, Padum, River, road. When it to Nimmu on the Leh–Kargil the valley the mood of opens, it may change looking for- However, are most locals forever. administration from Muslim of ward to a shift to Buddhist Ladakh.Kargil no petrol are valley. There along the villages stations in Zanskar, should so motorcyclists cans. bring all the fuel they need in spare See for a fee. Trucks may pick up hitchhikers details. for more p367 Kargil to Rangdum The main road into Zanskar follows the Suru J&K Tourist Bungalows are There Valley. but you’ll need to find the in most villages, and for walks and treks, This is a scenic area you can stay in the tourist bungalow or the friendly has its own king, though own king, has its mainly the role is ceremonial. the outside world. Ice chokes from the entirely mountainpasses under a and the valley sits valley in the snow. Farmers of silent blanket fuel and summer storing up spend the whole hardy few A months. long winter food for the along the frozen winter in here trek travellers Zanskar to see River the valley at its most informa- For more beautiful and uncrowded. . p366 tion on activities in Zanskar ,see along the valley of A road is slowly being built with shared bathroom Rs 100) with shared (lamb A more A more along Main along Main rogon josh rogon josh dhabas ZANSKAR •• Kargil to Rangdum (Main dishes Rs 30-100) Bazar;

Half-a-dozen Muslim

Share jeeps leave from a separate stand near jeeps leave Share The minibus stand, 500m back up the about Shashila by an arduous week-long trek or a 14-hour by an arduous week-long trek and potholed track along along a pitted drive Although Zanskar is admin- the Suru River. the valley the people of from Kargil, istered Buddhist. The valley even predominantly are When it comes to splendid isolation, Zan- When it comes to splendid isolation, This as you can get. as isolated skar is about Buddhist valley can only be reached rugged ZANSKAR hours) leave at 7am; jeeps at 7am; to Srinagar (Rs 500 leave hours) at 3am. leave to 550, 10 hours) the tourist office. Jeeps to Leh (Rs 500, 22 to Leh (Rs 500, 22 Jeeps the tourist office. to Mulbekh by taxi Rs 1000. Book for around Hotel. at the Greenland with the office JEEP/TAXI JEEP/TAXI jeep will cost Rs 8000 to Padum A chartered round trip) and Rs (Rs 12,500 for a three-day 3800 to Srinagar or Leh, with room for four day trip a can make You passengers. or five there is no bus for days on end. is no bus for days on there Rangdum (Rs 150, seven but often hours), office doesn’t know the schedule. The bus to office doesn’t know the schedule. leave should (Rs 300, 14 to 18 hours) Padum days at around 3am, stopping at on alternate Sanku (Rs 30, one hour). Buses to Zanskar are even the tourist notoriously unpredictable; road to Leh, services has (Rs 50, to Panikhar passing through at 7am and 2pm, two hours) for Srinagar (semi-deluxe/deluxe Rs 240/320, for Srinagar (semi-deluxe/deluxe between and 2am. You’ll pay 1am 10 hours) Rs 30 as far as Mulbekh and Rs (1½ hours) 100 to Lamayuru Book the day (4½ hours). is that the road to Srinagar and check before boarding. before safe hospital. Buses leave for Lehhospital. (semi-deluxe/ Buses leave and at 4.30am 10 hours) Rs 240/320, deluxe The government bus stand is below the high- The government the road to the the alley opposite way – take Getting There & Away Getting There & Away BUS trekkers can pick up fruit, biscuits and freshly and freshly can pick up fruit, biscuits trekkers in the bazaar. bread baked portions of dhal and rice and dhal and rice portions of curry). and tomato formal Kashmiri restaurant, serving restaurant, Kashmiri formal cheap and Ladakhi Kashmiri Bazar offer food and lonelyplanet.com JAMMU & KASHMIR posite forpopular routes. h Rs 250to300per day.Alternatively, you routes andarrange guides andporters for ( can make arrangements through chorten withviewsover the plain. monastery at short walkacrossthevalleyis medieval Sunni Muslims,andtworuined mosque farms andvillages. Padum hasalittletown in thefieldsandplainisdotted withsmall Yaks light. wan desert and Padum, valleyshimmers inthe theZanskar a few dustystreets Around andabusstand. butdon’texpectmore of than capital Zanskar, underanendlesssky, Basking Padum isthe % PADUM small gompaat must alsoshowyourpassport. There’s another the historic the finaldescenttoPadum, youcandetourto ring-fenced wall.On byasheer mountain of sheet farmlandskar proper,asweeping andStodRivers. ThisisZan- the Zanskar ofup intoabroad,flatplainatthemeeting grey moraines. glistening white, steely snaking downbetween the of rocks andthepassoffers jawdroppingviews abound onthegrassy the patches between Valleys. theSuruandZanskar tween Marmots Pensi (4401m),which formstheborderbe- La somefinemuralwork. prayer hallscontain andthe donkeys, insideatnight, whosleep live here are outnumbered bythemonastery hill overlooking theplain.The25monkswho Gompa Leh–Kargil roadatLamayuru. over (5255m),linkinguptothe theKanji La youcantrektectonics. east FromRangdum twisted intoa3-Dabstract paintingbyplate the valley’sedge, geographical hasbeen strata range withlocalvillagers. ahomestay Around Bungalow group of anda good teahouses small cluster of centred white houses, ona plain at 390 % The On thefarsideof thepass, thevalleyopens theroadclimbsrugged After Rangdum, About 5kmsouthof thevillage, 01983 10am-4pm Mon-Sat) 245136) ASA • Pdm ••PadumZANSKAR Drang Drungglacier (admission bydonation) , catering toasmallcommunityof Tourist Reception Centre Centre Reception Tourist Rangdum – the only place to stay unlessyouar- –theonlyplacetostay on the road to the mosque. See on theroad tothemosque. See op- Zongkul Gompa Zongkul Pibiting Sani . The village itself isjusta . Thevillage itself can advise ontrekking canadvise , justoutsidePadum. , toppedbyamassive isperched atopalow , aperfect tongueof at Ating,where you dzo grazecalmly

J&K Tourism J&K Tourism Zanskar Trek Trek Zanskar ( gompas % Rangdum Rangdum 245017; . A opposite thetouristoffice. the main road, this big white house hasbig the mainroad,thisbigwhite house this large, Buddhist-run place serves thebest this large, Buddhist-runplaceserves room fromRs150/250) slightly grander.slightly next doortoChangthangHotel, issimilarbut with agoodcookbutlimited menu. sheltered gardencourtyard, plusarestaurant kept placehassnugroomsarranged around a tour groupsandoldertravellers, thiswell- family homeontheroadtomosque. fers traditionallyfurnishedroomsina bright, inPadum!style guesthouse Mont-Blanc of- bathroom Rs250/350) price. ing restaurant androomsare goodforthe trickling stream, hasaninvit- Changthang expensive tripsaroundthevalley. jeep choice fortravellers watching thepenniesafter tourist office, thissimpleplaceisagood bathroom Rs100) upatthesimple can set water bythebucket costsRs10to15.Campers except fortourgroupsonwinter treks. Hot Most hotels shutupfromlate October toJune, Sleeping &Eating pass by. could be atwo-daywaitfor thenextbusto whereverwill letyouoff youwant,butthere tobook ticketsneed thedaybefore. Drivers but itcanbecancelled fordaysonend.You hours) otherday, 2amand 3amevery between to leave Padum forKargil (Rs300,14to18 unpredictable. Insummer,abusissupposed will continuetobeslowand port inZanskar Until theroadtoNimmuopens,bus trans- BUS Getting There&Away the onlyalcohol intown. the mainroad,thistruckers’ restaurant serves withtheKailashNot tobeconfused Hotel on it– guessed food intown,withanemphasison–you and niceviewsfromthegarden. showers. There’s anISDcallcentre onsite white roomswithgeyser hotwater inthe Kailash Hotel Hotel Kailash Guesthouse Mont-Blanc Bungalow Tourist J&KTDC Kailash Hotel &Bar Hotel Kailash Marq GuestHouse Marq Ibex Hotel Changthang Hotel Gakyi Café Gakyi Book accommodationonlineatlonelyplanet.com

(dishes fromRs30) momos ( % Sharing acompoundwiththe ( % 245012; dRs350) Aroundacourtyardwith Atlast,apropervillage- 245074; dfromRs400)

( (beer Rs80,snackmealsfrom40) ( andnoodles. % % 245166; rwithout/withbath- 245021; dRs500) (

% campground (

Facing Hotel Ibex, % 245183; rwithout/with 245017; rwithshared Thechoice of Thishotel, (tent Rs50) Just off Justoff

JAMMU & KASHMIR for 391 Trekking in the Indian Himalaya the in Trekking Most trekkers then detour north to the cave then detour north to the cave Most trekkers Most people make advance arrangements in arrangements advance make Most people most popular the some of are The following Stage Route (hr) 1 2 Duration 3 4 to Raru Padum Raru to Pepula 5 to Purne Pepula La 6 to Phuktal Purne Lhakhang Monastery to Purne 7 to Sking/Kargyak Purne Shinkun Sking/Kargyak to 5-6 8 Lhakhang to Ramjak over 5 4-5 5-6 6-7 Ramjak to Darcha 8 6 5-6 sha Monastery (in reverse, it’s the most trekked it’s the most trekked (in reverse, sha Monastery the route into Zanskar). route From Padum, the Zanskarfollows the left bank of before River tower of north to the whitewashed diverting La (4950m). Or, Hanuma Gompa over Lingshet by jeep to Zangla to travel you may be able and via Zanskar’s Pishu to cross cableway. longest PADUM TO LAMAYURU VIA SINGGE LA VIA SINGGE LA TO LAMAYURU PADUM or Kar- begins in either Padum This tough trek This extremely popular seven- to eight-dayThis extremely east towards Valley follows the Tsarap route in Lahaul. hwy on the Manali–Leh Darcha A along the valley, al- road is slowly being built to cut out several at the stages lowing trekkers Starting from Padum, the trek. start and end of runs east to Raruthe route (on foot or by jeep) days. moderate then up to Purne in two at Phuktal and spend a secondmonastery night for the sustained climb to in Purne to prepare over- more La are Shinkun (5090m). There and Lhakhangnight stops at Sking/Kargyak Himalaya the trail crosses the Great before Range and descends to meet main road the can arrange Exhausted trekkers at Darcha. from Ramjak.transport for the final stage climatisation essential is see AMS – to avoid Health ). ( p1188 around US$60 per person charge Leh (agencies also organise but you can per day all-inclusive), and) opposite ( in Padum porters guides and is not). Going without a guide p388 ( Kargil advice. for more p97 – see recommended to Lonely should refer Seriousroutes. trekkers Planet’s further details. LA VIA SHINKUN TO DARCHA PADUM

, Gu- Thieur Solidari- dances , accessible . Karsha Gompa Karsha Gompa chaam Zangla and . There are two main are . There (www.jamyang.org)

Stongde ZANSKAR •• Around Padum , (see the boxed text, p351 ). Expe- p351 text, (see the boxed Pishu (tent Rs 70, r with shared bathroom Rs 200-250) (tent Rs 70, r with shared

, squeezed into a cave clinging to the , squeezed into a cave (www.solidarijeune.org)

There are more historic gompas in the small more are There The best place to stay is the appealing As many treks climb over 5000m, proper ac- climb over many treks As by taxi or on foot from Padum. A more chal- A more by taxi or on foot from Padum. gompa of lenging destination is the isolated Phuktal Storms occasionally River. Zanskar the frozen itineraries in August and September. interrupt The main trekking season June runs from late The main trekking people specifically thoughto October, a few along trek for the famous winter come here TREKKING IN ZANSKAR TREKKING IN ZANSKAR can only be reached by walking – typically as by can only be reached ). right (see trek to Darcha the Padum part of you can see spring and some 700- a sacred The gompa style. murals in the Alchi year-old side of the near-vertical Shadi gorge. Inside gorge. Shadi the near-vertical side of villages of of villages gompa from Padum by (expensive) taxi or a by (expensive) gompa from Padum two-hour walk across the exposed plain to the Zanskar the River. over new bridge set in a pretty garden just uphill from the garden just uphill from the set in a pretty the You can reach Rural Development office. Guesthouse jeune gompa, helped by the French charity charity gompa, helped by the French monastery, dating back to at least the 10th dating back to monastery, maintaincentury. Around 150 monks the is Zanskar’s largest and oldest Buddhist is Zanskar’s Buddhist and oldest largest Like a smear of whitewash on the moun- whitewash of a smear Like tainside across from Padum, have time: trek. have AROUND PADUM Gompa and Rs 6000 to Rangdum. Those who The Padum Taxi Union office, between the Taxi The Padum high Ibex and the bus stand,Hotel charges to Karsha Rs 800/1000 one way/return rates: at Rangdum. Getting Around 14-hour drive, or you can stop on the way or you can stop 14-hour drive, Padum, or Rs 12,500 for a three-day return return or Rs 12,500 for a three-day Padum, passen- five space for four or trip; jeeps have gruelling can be done in one The trip gers. TAXI to By taxi, it’s a steep from Kargil Rs 8000 lonelyplanet.com chambers, both containing stunning murals chambers, annual The and old treasures. Stor festival to volunteer may be able at rienced teachers for girls through local schools the US-based Jamyang Foundation are held in July as part of the three-day the three-day held in July as part of are JAMMU & KASHMIR © LonelyPlanetPublications 392 the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake arranged jeep. canbedoneonfootorbypre- Lamayuru mostly downhilltoWanla. Thefinallegto to thevillage of andcontinues Honupatta (4850m) SisirLa thetrailcrosses Photaksar canbecompleted inonestage.taksar From and thegradualdescenttovillage of Pho- inducing views.It’snotoverly demanding (5050m),withswoon- viatheSingge La Range 1 Wnat aauu 3-4 5 6 5-6 WanlatoLamayuru 5-6 HonupattatoWanla viaSisirLa 10 5 PhotaksartoHonupatta 9 PhotaksarviaSinggeLa 5-6 4-5 4-5 SinggeLabasecampto 8 2 Labasecamp LingshettoSingge 7 Hanuma to Lingshetvia Snertse 6 La HanumiltoSnertse Pishu toHanumil 5 Duration toPishu Karsha 4 (hr) Padum toKarsha 3 2 1 Stage Route From Pishu, the trail crosses the Zanskar theZanskar From Pishu, thetrailcrosses ASA • Tekn nZnkr inZanskar ••Trekking ZANSKAR before Padum. arestays available inthelastfew villages celebrations inPadum andKarsha. Home- ple timethetrek tocoincidewiththeLosar along theriverbank. Themajority of peo- scape, withcampingstopsinrockcaves asurreal daysthrough seven canyonland- Theroute fromLeh. followsthe riverjeep for required toleadasafe passage across theice. localguidesarecamping. Experienced also equipmentforwinter serious expeditions need stages, conditionsarehigh-altitude testing and River.the frozenZanskar Whilethere are no ter toattempt theunique Chadar Trek along inwin- A few hardysoulsflyintoLadakh THE CHADAR TREK Krh oPdm 2 4-5 4-5 5-6 toPadum Karsha 5-6 5/6 Pishu toKarsha 6-7 HanumiltoPishu 8 NerakPullu toHanumil 7 Paldar SumdotoNerakPullu 6 Duration Tilat SumdotoPaldar Sumdo 5 (hr) ChilingtoTilat Sumdo 3 2 1 Stage Route The starting pointisChiling,accessiblebyThe starting lonelyplanet.com

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