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How 1950s America Beat a Pandemic REVIEW WSJ spring style THE WALL STREET JOURNAL WEEKEND WSJ. MAGAZINE

******** SATURDAY/SUNDAY, MAY 1 - 2, 2021 ~ VOL. CCLXXVII NO. 101 WSJ.com HHHH $5.00 Israel Grieves After Deadly Stampede at Religious Festival What’s Apple Is News Hit With

World-Wide Antitrust

he European Union Charges Tcharged Apple with antitrust violations over its control of music-streaming apps, broadening the bat- In EU tle over the tech giant’s App Store practices. A1 Case alleges company Manhattan federal pros- squeezed rival music ecutors are seeking to exam- ine Giuliani’s communications apps by forcing use of with an array of former Ukrai- its payments system nian officials, people famil- iar with the matter said. A5 BY SAM SCHECHNER The White House said that the U.S. will restrict The European Union travel from India beginning charged Apple Inc. with anti- Tuesday, as concerns mount trust violations over its control over a record surge in cor- of music-streaming apps, onavirus cases there. A7 broadening the battle over the tech giant’s App Store prac- Biden intends to steer a tices ahead of a federal trial in middle course between the the U.S. brought by the maker approaches of Trump and of online game “Fortnite.” Obama on North Korea’s

ARIEL SCHALIT/ASSOCIATED PRESS The European Commission, nuclear and missile pro- SORROW: Mourners carry the body of Rabbi Eliezer Goldberg, who died during Lag b’Omer celebrations at Mount Meron, at the EU’s top antitrust enforcer, grams, U.S. officials said. A8 his funeral on Friday. Israel faces investigations and recriminations over the disaster, which left at least 45 people dead. A7 said in a document Friday that The U.S. criticized China’s the iPhone maker squeezed ri- protection of intellectual val music-streaming apps by property, saying that mea- requiring them to use Apple’s sures Beijing adopted— in-app payments system to sell some to comply with the digital content. The case stems 2020 U.S.-China trade deal— Amid Lower Returns, Investors from a complaint by Spotify don’t go far enough. A8 Technology SA, which com- petes with Apple’s music- 3M lost the first lawsuit streaming service. to go to trial over the safety In addition, EU regulators of earplugs it sold for years Press Buffett on Social Issues say Apple “distorted competi- to the military, with a fed- tion” by limiting how app de- eral jury awarding $7.1 mil- velopers can inform users lion to three veterans. A3 BY JUSTIN BAER Leading up to Berkshire’s to criticism amid a growing from 1965 to 2020, outper- about cheaper ways to sub- Died: Eli Broad, 87, bil- annual meeting on Saturday, wave of investor interest in forming the S&P 500’s 10.2% scribe outside the app. Apple’s lionaire businessman, phi- Professional money manag- proxy advisers Glass Lewis & corporate sustainability issues. gains including dividends dur- in-app payment system im- lanthropist and collector of ers are turning up the heat on Co. and Institutional Share- The shareholder movement ing the period. Berkshire’s to- poses a 30% commission on contemporary art. WSJ.com Warren Buffett’s Berkshire holder Services Inc. have rec- to press companies on climate tal returns over the past purchases inside many of the Hathaway Inc. ommended that investors change, social progress and three- and five-year periods most popular apps. Business&Finance California Public Employ- withhold their votes for board governance continues to gain were 12% and 14%, respec- “This case is about the cen- ees’ Retirement System and members. steam in the U.S., emerging as tively, compared with the in- tral role of app stores in the Neuberger Berman have de- While many of the com- a key selling point for money dex’s 19% and 18%. digital economy,” Margrethe Berkshire Hathaway’s manded that the Omaha, Neb., plaints aren’t new and none of managers in their efforts to “Berkshire has gotten a Vestager, who is in charge of lackluster returns in recent conglomerate bring in new di- the shareholder proposals are keep client money. PleaseturntopageA4 competition enforcement at years have made it more rectors and provide more dis- likely to pass, Berkshire’s lack- Under Mr. Buffett’s leader- the European Commission, said vulnerable to criticism amid closures on climate risks and luster returns in recent years ship, the firm boasts 20% com- BlackRock uses voting power Friday. “An app store can be- a growing wave of investor executive pay. have made it more vulnerable pounded annualized gains aggressively...... B1 PleaseturntopageA6 interest in corporate sustainability issues. A1 For personal, Regulators in China have told some of the country’s Trapped on an Abandoned Ship: A Sailor’s Ordeal biggest financial technology firms that their apps should no longer provide financial services beyond payments. A1 Vessel was seized in 2017; years later, its chief mate was still aboard Companies in the U.S. are expected to spend 15% more BY JOE PARKINSON Egyptian government. They had refused to let on advertising this year than AND DREW HINSHAW him disembark but couldn’t keep him on the they did in 2020, embold- ship if it was sinking, he reasoned. ened by swelling consumer SUEZ, Egypt—Chief Mate Mohammad Ai- He activated an emergency beacon and confidence and the pace of sha awoke to the groans and tremors of a shouted “Mayday! Mayday!” into the radio. Covid-19 vaccinations. A1 cavernous cargo ship listing hard to star- Hours crawled by before a military patrol ar- board. He staggered through the darkness up rived to whisk him to land. Household income rose five flights of stairs to the bridge and shined Ten days of interrogations in military and at a record pace of 21.1% his phone’s flashlight on the navigation dials. police stations later, Mr. Mohammad was in March as federal stimu- The MV Aman was tilting 10 degrees, its right back where he started, returned to a de- lus checks helped fuel an non-commercial use only. 330-foot-long hull taking on more than 6 feet serted ship whose hull had been repaired. It economic revival. A2 of water. Three miles from the nearest ship, was Oct. 27, 2019, and he wasn’t going any- The global shortage of Mr. Aisha knew that if the 3,000-ton boat where. semiconductors that has went under, it would suck him, the only per- The young Syrian was 400 miles from hobbled auto makers son on board, into the Red Sea. home and trapped in a labyrinth of Egyptian world-wide is now squeez- This was a crisis. It was also Mr. Aisha’s bureaucracy and maritime law. He started to ing other industries. B1 best chance to escape. think: Will I ever get off this boat? For months, the 29-year-old Syrian had Mr. Aisha had boarded the MV Aman in Credit Suisse’s new chair-

been the last sailor still living on a cargo ship, May 2017, but the ship was soon detained be- THE WALL STREET JOURNAL man, António Horta-Osório, abandoned two years earlier near the mouth cause of unsettled debts. One by one, crew After years aboard the MV Aman, Mohammad Aisha was allowed signaled a broad re-evalua- of the Suez Canal and being detained by the PleaseturntopageA11 to swim ashore, but he was required to return by sunset. tion of the bank’s risk taking and said strategic changes couldbeinstore.B12 Squishmallow U.S. stocks slipped Fri- EXCHANGE Chinese Tech Giants Told Advertising day, but the S&P 500, Nas- daq and Dow posted Fans Spark To Curb Financial Services monthly gains of 5.2%, 5.4% Spending and 2.7%, respectively. B13 A Gold Plush BY KEITH ZHAI financial services beyond pay- Rebounds iii ments, according to people fa- NOONAN Stuffed toys prompt SINGAPORE—In recent miliar with the discussions. Sharply Two Very Different years, China’s technology gi- During the nearly three- ants have turned consumers’ hour meeting at the People’s BY SUZANNE VRANICA But Plainspoken road trips, lines, embrace of mobile payment Bank of China’s Financial Mar- Speeches A15 apps into lucrative ecosystems ket Department, regulators Advertising is coming back ‘adrenaline rush’ offering a range of financial told company representatives strong. CONTENTS Sports...... A12 services, from personal loans that the bundling of several fi- Companies in the U.S. are Books...... C7-12 Style & Fashion D2-3 BY HALEY VELASCO to insurance policies. nancial services within a sin- expected to spend 15% more Business News...... B3 Travel...... D1,4 Now, Beijing wants to put a gle platform obscured how on advertising this year than Food...... D8-9 U.S. News...... A2-6 Tipped off by a Facebook stop to that. much money was flowing into they did in 2020, emboldened Heard on Street...B14 Tax Report...... B5 Obituaries...... A10 Weather...... A12 post, Jess Columbus, a 40- On Thursday, China’s cen- the various products, creating by swelling consumer confi- Opinion...... A13-15 World News...... A7-9 year-old mom of two, jumped tral bank and four other regu- risks for the broader financial dence and the pace of Covid-19 in her car, drove 40 minutes latory agencies told some of system, these people said. vaccinations. and waited three hours in line. the country’s biggest financial Regulators’ push to delink The current rate of ad- > Not for concert tickets. Or an A NEW CLASS technology firms—including the technology companies’ spending growth is likely to be exclusive clothing-line drop. Jobs are back WeChat operator Tencent broader suites of financial the fastest in the postwar era, But to find Patty the Cow at a for recent college Holdings Ltd., ride-hailing products and services from according to Brian Wieser, toy store in Wexford, Pa. company Didi Chuxing Tech- their core payments platforms, president of business intelli- graduates. But s 2021 Dow Jones & Company, Inc. With the store’s one- nology Co. and e-commerce if carried out, would deal a gence at ad-buying giant All Rights Reserved Squishmallow-per-person rule competition is fierce. B1 firm JD.com Inc.—that their blow to a lucrative business GroupM, and comes as many PleaseturntopageA10 apps should no longer provide PleaseturntopageA8 PleaseturntopageA6 For personal, non-commercial use only. Do not edit, alter or reproduce. For commercial reproduction or distribution, contact Dow Jones Reprints & Licensing at (800) 843-0008 or www.djreprints.com. In Loafers Gentlemen, We Trust Start Your The cult that Touchpads worships This high-tech iconic ‘Belgian Ferrari pushes all Shoes’ D3 OFF DUTY our buttons D10

5 The Great 2 Culinary Migration

Some big food-world names have left the major cities to take over the kitchens—and kitchen gardens—of country hotels, just as hungry vacationers are ready to gulp up spring

For personal,

4 LANNA APISUKH FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL (2, 3); MAYFLOWER INN & SPA, AUBERGE RESORTS COLLECTION (1,4); ALILA MAREA BEACH RESORT ENCINITAS (5) EDIBLE ENGAGEMENTS 1. April Bloomfield’s Garden Supper tasting menu at the Mayflower Inn & Spa in Washington, Conn. 2. Mads Refslund, a founder of Noma in Copenhagen, at Shou Sugi Ban House, in New York’s Hamptons, where he oversees the dining room. 3. Mr. Refslund’s white asparagus dish with seaweed, ramps and pine tip salad. 4. Ms. Bloomfield and her wife, April Hou, in the Shakespeare Garden at the Mayflower Innnon-commercial & Spa. 5. Wood-fired halibut from Vaga Restaurant, chef Claudette Zepeda’s new eatery at Alilause Marea Beach Res ortonly. in Encinitas, Calif. BY CHRISTIAN L. WRIGHT and it was exactly where I wanted to be at that opened up a whole new landscape for people who moment,” said the chef, best known for the Spot- travel, in some measure, for good food. H, SPRINGTIME. The trees are ridicu- ted Pig and the Breslin in New York City. A four- Dan Silverman, who started his career under lously colorful, tulips spill out of month residency at the Mayflower, an Auberge star chef David Bouley, spent years in celebrated bushels at the farmers markets, little Resort, that started in fall 2020 has now turned New York City kitchens before leaving Minetta A peas take center stage and a kaleido- into a long-term, post-Covid gig—with a kitchen Tavern in Greenwich Village for points north. He’s scope of birds is migrating. Chefs are, about three times as large as any she’s toiled in set himself up at Hutton Brickyards, a 31-cabin- too. Just as WFH executives were drawn to life in since she started cooking at 16 in her native Eng- and-suite hotel, spa and events retreat on 73 roll- the sticks as the pandemic settled in, many of the land. “It’s nice for me to be able open the back ing acres in Kingston, N.Y., due to open in May. country’s notable chefs—facing restaurant clo- door, step out and look at the colors, listen to the There he’ll run the River Pavilion, an open-air res- sures, indefinite furloughs and notoriously thin birds, see the sunset,” she said. “It’s a gift.” taurant that relies solely on wood-burning heat profit margins—have heard the call of the country. Parker Brothers could make an excellent sources and has views of the Hudson unblocked Specifically, country hotels. board game out of the exodus of city chefs to pas- by crowds or tall buildings. “It’s gorgeous, right Last spring, when April Bloomfield first saw toral hotels—due in part to the pandemic. Call it, on the river,” said Mr. Silverman, from the house Mayflower Inn & Spa, the newly renovated 58- say, the Fork Ran Away With The Spoon. The ar- in Catskill that he and his wife presciently acre posh compound in Washington, Conn., she rangements include full-time posts, three-month bought in 2019. It’s a 35-minute drive to Hutton took a deep breath. “It looked so bright and airy, residencies and one-off weekends, and they’ve PleaseturntopageD4 Inside

KEEPING TRACK KRISPIES GET THE CHEF TREATMENT SAFER TRAVELS BUD TALK The warm-up suits that Run-DMC favored Advanced food minds reinvent Why head protection for cyclists is Two rose-growing experts share tips in the ‘80s are resonating again D3 the gooey classic D9 not ‘one size fits all’ D10 for novice gardeners D6 For personal, non-commercial use only. Do not edit, alter or reproduce. For commercial reproduction or distribution, contact Dow Jones Reprints & Licensing at (800) 843-0008 or www.djreprints.com.

D4 | Saturday/Sunday, May 1 - 2, 2021 **** THE WALL STREET JOURNAL. ADVENTURE & TRAVEL Meals Worth The Mileage ContinuedfrompageD1 Brickyards. “Before, we lived in Brooklyn and I worked in Manhattan. My commute was longer then.” Mads Refslund, a founder of Noma in Co- penhagen who is now based in New York, bounced around between resorts—foraging in Aspen, diving for clams in Cabo—before sign- ing on to oversee the food and conduct work- shops at Shou Sugi Ban House, a Japanese-in- fluenced wellness enclave in the Hamptons hamlet of Water Mill on New York’s Long Is- land. “When I’m in this paradise, I realize how happy I am,” said Mr. Refslund. “When you’re in the city, you forget. I’m very connected to nature—the produce, the farmers and the fish- ermen. I always come up with new things and cook randomly.” Among the random creations: Mr. Refslund’s roasted lobster with green strawberries and pickled rhubarb. Hugh Acheson, who helped change the culinary landscape in Atlanta, signed up with Ho- tel Effie at Sandestin Golf & Beach Resort on the Gulf Coast of northwest Florida. As the executive chef, he goes to the coastal hotel every three or four weeks, with podcasts cued up for the six-hour drive. “The beach was obviously a draw,” Mr. Acheson said. “I am inland in Geor- gia so the Florida inspiration comes from the

abundance of the Gulf, from stone crabs to IELD AND NATHANS); HUGH ACEHSON; DITTE ISAGER (BURGER) oysters to tuna and mahi. It is a marine won- der world.” On the opposite coast, Claudette Zepeda, a Top Chef competitor who’s known for her bold Mexican cuisine, left her hometown of San Di- ego to open VAGA Restaurant & Bar at Alila Marea Beach Resort in the nearby surf town of Encinitas last month. The indoor/outdoor restaurant takes advantage of its seaside perch at the 130-room resort, while Ms. Zepeda has her pick of avocados, cherimoyas and dragon fruit, as well as ethically raised chickens and other livestock from the farms in the area. Just before the pandemic, in 2019, the Ojai Valley Inn, sprawled across 220 acres north of Los Angeles, began courting well-known chefs to its Farmhouse, a 50,000-square-foot epicu- rean event space. L.A. chef Nancy Silverton was brought in as the resort’s “culinary am- bassador” to host assorted events, including special dinners and most recently, a Pizzeria Mozza takeout pop-up. With her help, the resort became a refuge over the past year, host- ing stars of the gourmet galaxy while their own kitchens were temporarily closed. Among the guests toques: San Francisco’s Dominique Crenn and Christopher Kostow, executive chef of the Meadowood Resort in Napa, Calif.

‘When I’m in this paradise, I realize how happy I am. When you’re in the city,you forget. ’

Landing a name chef can put a hotel on the culinary map, not to mention giving guests gastro bragging rights. At C Lazy U Ranch in Colorado, dinner now rivals riding as a draw

for dudes just as interested in the menu de- OJAI VALLEY INN (FARMHOUSE CULINARY CENTER, CHEF KOSTOW); LANNA APISUKH FOR THE WALL STREET JOURNAL (SHOU SUGI BAN HOUSE); MAYFLOWER INN & SPA (BLOOMF BED AND BANQUETFor personal, vised by the family resort’s new chef, the clas- Clockwise from top: The Farmhouse culinary center at Southern California’s Ojai Valley Inn; the entrance to Shou Sugi Ban sically trained Cory Untch, as they are in House in the hamlet of Water Mill, N.Y.; Hugh Acheson now serves as the executive chef at the Hotel Effie at Sandestin Golf & Beach Resort on horses. For the chefs themselves, even a week- Florida’s Gulf Coast; April Bloomfield and executive sous chef David Nathans in the Garden Room at Connecticut’s Mayflower Inn & Spa. end at a beachside or bucolic hotel can seri- ously improve their quality of life. “Visiting chefs stay on the property,” said Chris Kandzi- TURNING THE TABLES / WITHOUT THE USUAL STAMPEDE OF RAVENOUS TOURISTS, EUROPE’S FAMED DESTINATION ora, general manager of Ojai Valley Inn. RESTAURANTS FOUND NOVEL WAYS TO HANG ON “They’re our guests. A lot of people think we’re paying the chefs. Nancy Silverton is not René Redzepi, the chef behind a menu with recipes like for chil- being paid. It’s a vacation. They bring friends Noma in Copenhagen, was fin- dren—you had to be pretty dim and family and have time to enjoy the resort.” ishing up his weekly long walk to blow it,” said Mr. Colagreco. More than a year into the pandemic, we through the woods with mem- In June he hopes to reopen could all use a vacation. Not a single corner bers of his team recently. “Today, Mirazur, after eight months shut of the country has been spared hardship. we’re walking 42 kilometers, just down, with another frequently While many restaurants in New York have talking about how to be better changing lunar menu, centered been able to spill out onto the street—creat- in the future,” said Mr. Redzepi, on whatever’s optimal in the ing a café-life Mediterranean vibe even non-commercial in reached by phone on the trail. use only.garden. Mr. Colagreco also hopes midtown—at least 4,000 have permanently “To have this time to do that to serve his seasonal cooking in closed. Michael Ferraro, a chef who cooked has been simply incredible.” Singapore this summer, in a for 20 years in New York City before selling Noma, like every restaurant in three-month pop-up at Mandala his restaurant in 2019 and moving to Winter Denmark, has been closed since Club, a private members club. Park, Fla., to be the vice president of food December (restrictions began In Spain, brothers Joan, Jordi and beverage at Tavistock Restaurant Col- easing a few weeks ago). But and Josep Roca, of Girona’s lection, sees a silver lining. “In the next few with government help covering three-Michelin-starred El Celler years,” he said, “we’re going to see food staff salaries, Mr. Redzepi hasn’t de Can Roca, have been espe- scenes blossoming all over because of the laid a single person off. He hopes cially isolated in their corner of talent that’s left New York. And the city will to reopen, with a new vegetable northern Catalonia, with re- be fine. This will give a new generation a tasting menu, starting in June. gional, and even provincial, bor- chance to shine.” Before the pandemic, Eu- ders closed at times during the rope’s top destination restau- darkest days of the pandemic. rants, like Noma, were often Diners have been almost entirely booked up months in advance THE NEW BURGER KING? A vegetarian patty made from organic local at their flagship restaurant, by international diners planning quinoa and tempeh, one of the offerings available at POPL, a new when it could open, and at the entire vacations around a single fast-casual restaurant in Copenhagen from the Noma team. casual offshoot they launched in meal. Though these bucket-list a former event space last sum- restaurants were hard hit by the takeout, Meurice à la Maison. In first time, in spring of last year, mer, serving greatest hits from border closures and rolling lock- Italy, Massimo Bottura served Mr. Colagreco escaped into his El Celler de Can Roca’s last 34 downs of this past tumultuous socially distanced outdoor meals restaurant’s biodynamic fruit years. Both restaurants have year, many found novel ways to last summer at Casa Maria Lu- and vegetable garden. From iso- only served lunch, at limited ca- adapt, and survive. igia, his country hotel outside lation came inspiration, a new pacity, since January, as per gov- Last summer, when restric- Modena. menu format, launched last ernment regulations. tions eased for the first time, When they’ve been able to summer, based on the phases of The Rocas are planning to Noma turned into a burger pop- open, top restaurants across the the moon—which drive the very open another new spot this up, serving 1,200 burgers in its continent have all shifted their short cycles of biodynamic farm- summer, when they’re cautiously garden on opening day. “I didn’t focus to a local clientele. “We ing. “We changed everything, optimistic they might welcome even feel like cooking a tasting went from having 70% foreign- and it gave us enormous en- international diners again. The menu,” said Mr. Redzepi. The ers and 30% French to 80% ergy,” said Mr. Colagreco. new restaurant, simply called burgers were such a hit they French and 20% European,” said After the restaurant closed Normal, will serve traditional, spawned their own fast-casual chef Mauro Colagreco, of three- again in October, as the govern- market-driven cooking inspired restaurant, POPL, that opened in Michelin starred Mirazur on the ment required, Mr. Colagreco be- by the pandemic. “These days December. French Riviera, which reopened gan experimenting with multi- everyone wants normality, ev- Alain Ducasse, whose Mi- for a few months last summer course meal-kits, shipped eryone demands normality,” said chelin-starred flagships in Paris after the country’s first lock- overnight across France for Joan Roca. “And so, we will open have been closed since October, down ended. Christmas, New Year’s Eve and a ‘normal’ restaurant.” Chef Christopher Kostow during his stint this launched the city’s most opulent When Mirazur closed for the Valentine’s Day. “We developed —Jay Cheshes spring at Southern California’s Ojai Valley Inn.