The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2015
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Much food has been consumed, the tables have been crumbed and the votes are in. We reveal the 50 most inspirational, ground-breaking, experimental and utterly brilliant restaurants in the world. Bon appétit ➺ theworlds50best.com | restaurant | June 2015 | 43 50 49 NEW ENTRY 48 The French Laundry Blue Hill at Stone Barns Schloss Schauenstein Yountville, USA Pocantico Hills, USA Fürstenau, Switzerland Eat: Charcoal-grilled Eat: Blue Hill bone char cheese: local sheep’s Eat: Goose liver, with fresh goat’s Alaskan king crab cheese coated in ash from the bio-charred bones cheese and maize of pigs raised at Stone Barns After more than two decades, Thomas Keller’s It’s hard to imagine a more romantic setting for The French Laundry has lost none of its appeal. This new entry is located at the Stone Barns dinner than this castle in the Alps where Cult dishes such as oysters and pearls (a Center for Food and Agriculture – a farm 30 stunning views are matched by the exquisite sabayon of pearl tapioca with oysters and white miles north of New York City. There is no printed food of Andreas Caminada. The chef honed his sturgeon caviar) and coffee and doughnuts menu, with co-owner and executive chef Dan skills at destinations such as Wirtschaft zum remain firm favourites, but the daily changing Barber producing instead a multi-taste menu Wiesengrund in Zurich and Bareiss in nine-course tasting menus continue to evolve. called ‘Grazing, Pecking, Rooting’ offering as Baiersbronn-Mitteltal in Germany, before taking Currently undergoing renovation, The French many courses as guests want. Service is informal over the restaurant at Schloss Schauenstein in Laundry is running with a temporary kitchen yet ceremonial; before a fish course, for instance, 2003. Since then he has racked up numerous and will reopen fully this autumn. you might be shown a video of its catch. awards, including three Michelin stars at just 33. The Sustainable Restaurant Award Sponsored by 47 RE-ENTRY 46 45 NEW ENTRY Alain Ducasse au Plaza Restaurant André Relae Athénée Singapore Copenhagen, Denmark Paris, France Eat: Memory – warm foie gras jelly Eat: Pickled mackerel with cauliflower and with black truffle coulis puréed lemon peel Eat: Green puy lentils and caviar Restaurant André is five this year, making it a There’s a refreshing lack of fuss or pretension at No one can accuse Alain Ducasse of resting on youngster in the elite gastronomic sphere. And this stripped-back restaurant in Copenhagen. his laurels. His flagship restaurant in the Plaza yet André Chiang’s restaurant is already Diners help themselves to cutlery from drawers Athénée hotel has been reinvented, reopening admired around the world for its sophistication, in the simple wooden tables and pour their own last autumn with a sparkling new dining room maturity, unusual philosophy and unique wine, while the menu is a straight choice and radically revised menu. Ducasse and character. The chef’s ‘Octaphilosophy’ approach between four or seven courses. Set up in 2010 executive chef Romain Meder have based the dictates the menu: under ‘Artisan’, diners might by Christian Puglisi and Kim Rossen, who both food around the trilogy of fish, vegetables and be served grilled Taiwanese baby corn, while previously worked at Noma, the restaurant’s cereal using produce caught or grown in an ‘Salt’ can comprise crispy potato gnocchi with laid-back, uncomplicated style means the focus entirely sustainable and largely organic fashion. smoked oyster cream. is always kept on the food. 44 | June 2015 | restaurant | bighospitality.co.uk 44 NEW ENTRY 42 = NEW ENTRY 42 = NEW ENTRY Maido Boragó Tickets Lima, Peru Santiago, Chile Barcelona, Spain Eat: Barnacle ceviche Eat: Venison tartare with maqui berries Eat: Razor clams with coconut sauce, mushrooms and peanut Nikkei food is the Peruvian-Japanese cultural With both the Pacific Ocean and the Andes at blend that has emerged from more than 100 his fingertips, Chile’s terroir is a culinary Open a few years now, Albert Adrià’s Barcelona years of Japanese immigration into Peru. Maido playground for Rodolfo Guzmán. Foraging restaurant still feels like the future of top-end is widely regarded as the place to find the finest expeditions might ferret out some pine-forest gastronomy. A sense of fun pervades every execution of the cuisine, led by its leading mushrooms or marine strawberries, as well as facet of this cinema-themed operation, from the proponent: Lima-born chef Mitsuharu Tsumura. lead to a chance meeting with a lone razor-clam door staff’s eccentric uniforms to the chime of Diners choose from either a relatively simple fisherman. Drawing on 18 preparations out of a the ice-cream cart’s bell signalling the end of Japanese menu, with expertly-tuned nigiri possible 300 on rotation, his tasting menu can the savoury phase of the meal. The kitchen, run made with Peru’s highest quality fish, or the full change during the course of an evening by Fran Agudo, uses edgy techniques to deliver 15-course Nikkei version that combines depending on the produce – proof that huge flavour hits in dishes such as raff tomato Japanese delicacies with Peruvian ingredients. biodiversity leads Boragó’s vision. with bufala straciatella and basil air. Sponsored by Chefs’ Choice Award 41 40 Daniel Humm Maní Per Se Eleven Madison Park, USA São Paulo, Brazil New York, USA Swiss chef Daniel Humm has made an Eat: Catch of the day with tucupi, bananas and Eat: 100 day dry-aged Snake River Farms beef, indelible mark on New York’s dining scene. Mani’s own manioc flour ‘langue de veau’ pierogi and borscht Since moving to the US as executive chef at Campton Place in San Francisco in 2003, Set in a former house in São Paulo’s leafy Perched on the fourth floor of the Time Warner Humm has created and honed an original Jardim Paulistano suburb, at Mani diners can Center, Per Se is an elegant space with views cuisine. His cooking at Eleven Madison enjoy close-up views of husband-and-wife team over Central Park. Its nine-course tasting menus Park is influenced by his native Europe, but Daniel Redondo and Helena Rizzo’s kitchen. feature seasonal American ingredients that the menus are heavily New York-focused. Dishes include a gazpacho of jabuticaba (a draw on classical French and European cuisine. Part of his appeal is a desire to go beyond grape-like fruit) with cachaça-steamed crayfish, The Hudson Valley duck foie gras with confit usual duties, creating bespoke dishes for pickled cauliflower and amburana nuts; delicate duck comes with ‘pommes maxims’, black individual customers. One guest cried with mouthfuls of foie gras ‘bonbons’ with Brazilian winter truffle and toasted brioche, while joy when Humm served him a Cuban guava jam; and thin-cut potato crisps with 100-day aged beef from Idaho is accompanied sandwich in homage to his late father. roast beef and Dijon mustard. by tongue pierogi and borscht. theworlds50best.com | restaurant | June 2015 | 45 39 38 37 RE-ENTRY Quique Dacosta Amber Biko Denia, Spain Hong Kong Mexico City, Mexico Eat: ‘Tobacco’ leaf and toro Eat: Hokkaido sea urchin in a lobster jell-o with Eat: Foie gras, pineapple and aniseed cauliflower, caviar and crispy ‘seaweed’ waffle When El Bulli closed in 2011, fans of Spanish Nestled above Mexico City’s Presidente techno-emotional cuisine found a ready-made The training of Dutch-born chef Richard Mazaryk Avenue in upmarket Polanco, Biko replacement waiting in the wings in the form Ekkebus with Guy Savoy, Alain Passard and serves two menus – Lo de hoy (Today) and Lo of Quique Dacosta. Tweezers in hand, the Pierre Gagnaire shines through in dishes that de antes (Before) – in addition to a seven-step Extremadura-born chef has been changing marry classical French technique with Pacific tasting option. Showcasing the best of both perceptions of the Costa Blanca one minimalist seafood and the finest meats from around the Mexico and Spain, chefs Mikel Alonso (French plate at a time. Tobacco leaf and toro, for world. Food includes miyazaki wagyu beef strip by birth but Basque-Mexican by heart) and example, sees sashimi-style slices of tuna loin chargrilled with seaweed and tomato dust; Bruno Oteiza (from San Sebastián) fuse native belly served on a bed of smoked, caramelized and raw and cooked ‘fukuoka salt’ tomatoes Basque flavours with Mexico’s ingredients kelp – micro herbs and onions rings offsetting and black garlic caramel, backed by a list of in dishes such as foie gras candy floss the fattiness of the fish. 1,100 wines ranging from France’s finest to sake. and geometrical milk origami. Sponsored by The Diners Club Lifetime 36 35 NEW ENTRY Achievement Award L’Astrance Quintonil Daniel Boulud Paris, France Mexico City, Mexico As a chef, Daniel Boulud is unmistakably Eat: Mushroom and foie gras tart marinated Eat: Huazontles with chiapas cheese French, despite having lived and worked in in verjus the US for more than half his life. But as a Mexican chef Jorge Vallejo’s star is certainly successful restaurateur, the 60-year-old Before opening his tiny Paris restaurant, chef rising. Kicking off his career on cruise ships, has added some of his adopted country’s Pascal Barbot did a five-year stint working he had a thorough training under Enrique more positive traits – entrepreneurship, under Alain Passard at L’Arpège in Paris, Olvera in Mexico City and a brief stint at Noma service culture, embracing new ideas – to between time spent travelling the South Pacific with René Redzepi before opening Quintonil in his overall make-up. The combination sees as a chef with the French Navy and heading 2012 with his wife Alejandra Flores, who runs him revered as one of the world’s finest up Ampersand restaurant in Sydney.