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Home , Bodice, Corset

1500's Construction

In this course we will be discussing the basics of how to construct a late period Renaissance gown. This method centers around a basic design, which begins at the natural and fits closely to the torso. The may either be joined with the bodice, or a separate piece.

To begin, we'll start with a basic . We start by taking measurements for the... Natural Waist- measure tight! Bust Height of Bodice-this determines where your will fall. We find this by measuring from the natural waist up to approximately where you'd like your neckline to fall. (One will likely need a helper for this as your hands will be needed to simulate where the will displace your bust.) Armpit gap- measured up from the natural waist to account for the gap below the armpit (keeping comfort in mind)

“A” demonstrates the most basic pattern. The blue outlines in “B” and “C” demonstrate various modifications to fit with regional and personal tastes. However all are derived from the most basic design “A”.

1. To create “A” start by drafting a vertical line on your craft paper. The length of this line should equal “Height of Bodice” measurement you took earlier. 2. Figure ¼ your Bust and Natural Waist measurements. Measure left from the of the vertical line and mark ¼ Bust, from the bottom of the vertical line measure left and mark ¼ Natural Waist. 3. Connect the end of the Bust line to the end of the Waist line and cut along those lines. See diagram, right. Do not cut dotted vertical line. 4. Fold on the vertical line and trace around the pattern. 5. Cut along the line you have just traced. 6. Mark out the armpit holes (this can be tailored later but it's easier to keep this in mind by marking them out ahead of time.) If you would like to keep with the most basic design for your bodice, you are done. Use this pattern for both front and back.

As was mentioned earlier, this design can be modified to match regional and personal tastes.

lacing location can French and Tudor vary. Italian (particularly are more arched Venetian) necklines tend to be quite low

Now that you have your patterns, the next step would be to take a careful look what region and time period you will be making a gown from.

• Early featured a more “pigeon breasted” look. Likely due to lack of corsetry or less rigid support underneath. A similar look can be achieved with stretchy fabrics (think ) or hemp boning. • By comparison, Mid to late 1500's features a more flat, upward silhouette. This shape was achieved with the aid of reed and whale boned . Steel boning is an acceptable alternative if you only care about the “look”. • Please note, when fabric shopping....satins, velvets, brocades are acceptable for nearly everywhere. Italians sometimes wore stripes, whereas the north seems to prefer brocades and solids.

Having done a little research, invest in your fabric. You will need enough fabric to cover the exterior of your bodice and enough left over to make a matching skirt. The general rule being, that your bodice almost always matches your skirt. , sometimes matched, however it wasn’t the rule and most were mix and match anyway. Depending on how you intend to pleat your skirt, and your general size, expect to invest in at least... • ½ yard for your bodice exterior • 3 yards for your skirt in a match fabric (assuming you will only be box pleating) • Additionally, depending on how you would like to handle the bodice construction you, will need at least 1 yard (2 layers) of canvas weight fabric to make your corset (which is easier to make as part of the bodice) If you would like to go for an earlier style bodice, I suggest linen, with no corset or hemp boning. (remember to invest in an equally stretchy outer fabric.)

1. Wash, dry and iron your fabric flat. 2. Lay two layers of your support (canvas weight fabric) with your exterior fabric on top. 3. Trace and Cut leaving at least ½ inch for hemming. 4. Separate support layer and prep boning channels...For hemp boning I recommend this tutorial. http://www.jennylafleur.com/study/runners.htm For a late period gowns continue on with this guide. You will need to lay out your channels in an arrangement similar to the diagram right. • rigid boning is required in a “fan” shape across the chest to achieve the desired silhouette. • Wherever there is a point in the bodice design, boning is required to hold it in place and to keep it from curling under tension. • Boning is required before every line of eyelets to keep the pair of bodies flat and tight against the torso.

5. Mark your channels. Channels need to be ¼ -1/2 inch wide. (wider = room for stronger boning) 6. Sew your support fabric together along the traced edge (leaving gaps for your channel openings) Measure your channels. 7. Buy boning. I like corsetmaking.com. 8. Join support fabrics with outer fabric and iron down edges. 9. Add boning and close channels by stitching down hem lines. 10. Add eyelets. Grommets or hand sewn. 11. Lace up and fit straps (I do this last for best fit) 12. Create skirt, either as a separate piece with a waist band which will secure beneath the bodice, or joined/sewn to the bodice itself. Box pleats are acceptable, though cartridge was the height of and requires a lot of fabric to show off your amazing wealth!

Further questions and assistance feel free to contact me! Donna Fede di Fiore [email protected]