NIAF's Members

Ambassador National Italian American Foundation Vol . 30, No.4 Q Summer 2019 Q www.niaf.org

Summer Travel Issue! Coastal Molise Italy’s Tricky Trafﬁc Laws Hidden Town of Todi Matera Transformed Grilling Italian Amalﬁ Fishing Village of Cetara

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gw.pdf 2 6/18/19 12:38 PM Ambassador The Publication of the National Italian American Foundation Vol . 30, No.4 Q Summer Q www.niaf.org CONTENTS

30 Features

30 Termoli 38 In the Zone Molise’s Coastal Treasure Steering Around Italy’s ZTL By Susan Van Allen Tricky Trafﬁc Restrictions By Paul Spadoni 51146 34 The Town of Todi A Hidden Jewel in the 42 Transforming Matera Center of Italy The 2019 European Capital Patricia de Stacy Harrison By Frank Van Riper of Culture in Basilicata Gabriel A. Battista Co-chairs By Karen Haid Don Oldenburg Director of Publications and Editor 46 Palazzo Mirto in Palermo Natalie Wulderk The Lost World of the Sicilian Communications Manager and Assistant Editor Nobility Displayed Gabriella Mileti By Theresa Maggio Bottega NIAF Editor

AMBASSADOR Magazine is published by the National 49 Savvy Traveling Italian American Foundation Tips for Your Next Trip to Italy On the Cover: (NIAF) 34 and Elsewhere 1860 19th Street NW With the announcement Washington DC 20009 By Frank Van Riper that Molise is NIAF’s POSTMASTER: Send change of address to Sections 2019 Region of Honor, NIAF, 1860 19th Street NW what could be more Washington DC 20009 Lettere 6 52 Cetara on the Amalﬁ Coast appropriate for the ©2019 The National Italian Foundation Focus 10 Preserving Centuries-Old cover image of our American Foundation (NIAF). Fishing Traditions No portion of this magazine Foundation Focus 13 Summer Travel issue may be reproduced without By Laura Thayer NIAF On Location 17 than the medieval written permission from NIAF. Single issue price: $15 Bottega NIAF 18 Molise seaside town of Termoli and one ISSN 1000-9999 Paesani 20 Tasting the Top Shelf 57 of its picturesque NIAF Wine Spectator’s Leading 1860 19th Street NW Ciao Italia 26 trabucchi mechanical 2018 Italian Wines Washington, DC 20009 Cinema 60 ﬁshing piers that are Tel. 202-387-0600 By Dick Rosano www.niaf.org Between The Pages 64 iconic of the region? Design: Barbieri & Green, Inc. On Sports 73 Photo: Landscape Printing: Mosaic NIAF Insider 74 Stock Photos/ Crossword 80 Shutterstock.com

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6 90_aaieid 4 59507_Magazine.indd Ambassador 4 WWW.NIAF.ORG BETWEENFROM THE THE CO-CHAIRSCHAIRMAN PAGES initiative andWashington-area community. ofNIAF’sciation—an invaluablepart youth Asso- Italian AmericanCongressional Staff that drewacrowdofyoungmembersthe NIAF’s SummerSpritzSocialonCapitolHill and officialsfromtheItalianEmbassy; Italian AmericanCongressionalDelegation attracted membersofCongressfromthe Tournament wherethecordialcompetition III MemorialCongressionalBocceBall cluding theNIAFSixthAnnualMarkValente Public Policyprogram,withhighlightsin- grants andothereducationalprograms. NIAF’sraising fundstosupport scholarships, ments ofthreedistinguishedhonoreeswhile sold-out Galaalsorecognizedtheachieve- networking andItalianAmericanpride,the with spiritedcamaraderie,high-powered Region ofHonor, Molise.Aneveningfilled where itofficiallyannouncedtheNIAF2019 City, NIAFhosted itsannualNewYork Gala, the elegantCipriani42ndStreetinNewYork dation’s mission.Onceagain,onApril9,at the goalsthatareatcoreofFoun- and educationalinitiatives,weareachieving andItaly. our country and tomaintainenhancetiesbetween American communityinthenation’s capital, asavoicefortheItalian leaders, toserve pare thenextgenerationofItalianAmerican ture andheritage,tohelpeducatepre- andpromoteourrichcul- ever topreserve mark in2019,weareworkingharderthan can Foundation.Asweapproachthehalfway is heatingupattheNationalItalianAmeri- Spring wasabusyseasonforNIAF’s Through NIAF’s far-reaching programs Summer isn’t theonlyreasonourwork NIAF Co-Chairs From the travels thissummer. mission.Safe ofourimportant ing support wethankyouforyourcontinu- tors andstaff, Italian Americans. States possibleandthefuturegenerationsof whose sacrificesmadeourlivesintheUnited building aneverlastingbridgebetweenthose en’t amember, wewelcomeyoutojoinusin upgrading yourNIAFmembership.Ifyouar- photography, pleaseconsiderrenewingor zine. Asyouenjoythisissue’s storiesandfine Summer Travel issueofAmbassadormaga- can readaboutitinthepagesofthisnew and inourvibrantcommunity!Andyou dignitaries. business andgovernment Molise wherethedelegationwillconferwith clude aBoardMeetinginRomeandtravelto their 2019MissiontoItaly—atripthatwillin- members ofNIAF’s BoardofDirectorsduring the throughouttheirfirst-evertripto learning Molise, wheretheywillengageinexperiential F. SecchiaVoyage programto ofDiscovery al studentsonour2019AmbassadorPeter bel paese NIAF Co-chair Gabriel A.Battista NIAF Co-chair Patricia deStacyHarrison On behalfoftheNIAFBoardDirec- So muchmoreishappeningatNIAF In June,NIAFissending19exception- . While there, they will meet with . Whilethere,theywillmeetwith Louis E.Tosi Simeone George Hon. BasilM.Russo,Esq. Alfonso Ruffo Philip L.Rinaldi Dr. JohnP. Rosa Joseph H.Moglia Vincent J.Lumia Dr. AntonioGiordano Hon. MikeFerguson Anthony S.DiSandroJr., Esq. Antonio DeMatteis Joseph M.DellaRatta Hon. CapriS.Cafaro Paolo Catalfamo Nicholas R.Caiazzo,Esq. Chris Berardini Maria Bartiromo Peter J.Arduini Board ofDirector Salvatore J.Zizza Salvatore M.Salibello Aileen Riotto-Sirey Francesco Nicotra Richard A.Grasso Mario J.Gabelli Matthew J.DiDomenicoSr. Board Emeriti Frank D.Stella Hon. FrankJ.Guarini Joseph V. DelRaso Colangelo Jerry Dr. A.KennethCiongoli Emeriti Chairmen Jeno F. Paulucci Founding Chairman Joseph D.Lonardo General Counsel Linda R.Carlozzi Secretary Gerald S.LaRocca Hon. FrankGiordano V.Robert Allegrini Presidents Executive Vice McBride Hon. AnitaBevacqua E.Carlucci Robert John F. Calvelli Kenneth J.Aspromonte Chairs Vice Harrison Hon. PatriciadeStacy Gabriel A.Battista Chairpersons /51 10:51 AM 6/15/19 6 / 1

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P M The thankDa Vinci Council is NIAF’syou way of saying

to its members donating $2,500 each and every year.

%8#,53)6%/&&%23 | BUSINESS NETWORKING FORUMS 05",)#0/,)#9%6%.43\FOOD & WINE /00/245.)4)%3

For successful Italian American business men and women who wish to support NIAF’s heritage focused programs— this is the perfect way to show your support.

Learn more: www.niaf.org/davinci

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8 90_aaieid 6 59507_Magazine.indd Ambassador 6 WWW.NIAF.ORG LETTERE is just now starting toshowresults. is justnowstarting our gardeninWashington state,andherpatience My daughterplantedasparagusafewyearsagoin andgrowingconditions. also abitaboutitshistory notjusthowtocookitbut I appreciatedlearning asparagus oftheVeneto region.Whatadelicacy! had theprivilegeofsamplingrenownedwhite Asparagus Side DishDelicacy in 1651andthetextIp Leonardo’s readers canunderstand. interest inoptics,amannermodern do’s studies,especiallyofhisspeciﬁc aboutLeonar- information important Heconveyed way tocloseyourarticle. Isaacson gavethebestanswer—agreat understanding ofLeonardoemerges. emphases outofwhichaconsistent personal ways,different different we wereallsayingthesamethingin reinforced oneanother—asthough the wayinwhichallrespondents (Spring 2019Ambassador):Ilove Taking LeonardoPersonally entertaining andeducational. entertaining wasboth much inyourmagazine,thestory Celebrity Inferno Dante Mortet’s “hands-on”studioinRome( Sculpting Dante Mortet’s Reader Feedback Past Issues To AdvertiseinAmbassador Letters maybepublishedand editedforlengthandclarity. zine, 186019thStreetNW, Washington, DC20009. Includeyourfullnameandaddress. Letters [email protected] ormailedtoLetterstheEditor, AmbassadorMaga- We'd LovetoHearfromYou! LetusKnowWhatYou're Thinking! — AnnEsposito’s story I lovedMary These areprincipalsubjectsin I personallythoughtWalter In thestory — Thanks forthatenjoyablevisittosculptor Gig Harbor, Wash. www.paulspadoni.com Paul Spadoni New York, N.Y. M. Rua (Spring2019Ambassador),asIrecently Trattato dellapittura are availableatNIAF’s website:www.niaf.org. ; Spring 2019 Ambassador). Like so ; Spring2019Ambassador).Likeso Da Vinci andMe Da Vinci ublished ina e-mail [email protected] orcall202-939-3108.

issued

Stalking tual andphilologicalcontext. ence byprovidinghistorical,intellec- audi- accessibletoamodern century tise onpaintingknownuntilthe19th the onlyversionofLeonardo’s trea- other projects.Ourpublicationmakes tool forusandfacilitatescountless digital projectwasavaluableresearch generations ofeditors.Fiorani’s ideas over130yearsinvolvingfour transmission ofLeonardo’s recorded uscripts (intheoriginal)totrack copies. Myteamstudiedtheseman- all ofthepre-publicationmanuscript nearly makes accessibleviaInternet website (www.treatiseonpainting.org) ists. FrancescaFiorani’s wonderful with ateamofLeonardospecial- scholarlyeditionlastyear modern Dante’s Dante’s

barmalini / Shutterstock Jaillen Yehia them andmakefeelincluded. broad publicinwaysthatwillinterest of bringingthattotheattentiona doesabeautifuljob And yourarticle ally committedtoLeonardostudies. same timeeachoneofusisindividu- has becomesocomplicated,butatthe work inteamsbecausethematerial on ThoseWhoKnowHimBest story In theSpring2019issueofAmbassador, the CORRECTION do’s treatiseonpaintingpublishedin1651. translation andscholarlyeditionofLeonar- contributors. ItistheﬁrstcompleteEnglish with JanisBell,CarloVecce, andsixother della Pittura Fabrication ofLeonardodaVinci’s Trattato have alsoincludedFarago’s latestbook, which waspublishedin2009.Itshould tise onPaintingacrossEurope,1500-1900 anthology listed thepublicationdateofClaireFarago’s — In general,Leonardospecialists Da VinciandMe:Leonardo’s Inﬂuence Los Angeles,Calif. TrattatoVinci’s dellaPittura The FabricationofLeonardoda Principal authorof ofColoradoBoulder Professor Emerita,University Claire Farago Re-Reading Leonardo:TheTrea- (BrillPress,2018),co-authored incorrectly

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P M HONOR your Ancestors. EMPOWER the Next Generation.

PRESERVING, PROMOTING AND PROTECTING OUR ITALIAN AMERICAN HERITAGE

SUSTAINING MEMBER 2019

Give a NIAF Membership to a Paesano

WWW.NIAF.ORG/GIFTMEMBERSHIP

Your gift membership is tax deductible.

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1 2 59507_Magazine.indd 10 0Ambassador 10 WWW.NIAF.ORG FOUNDATION FOCUS N NIAF DirectorofSpecialPrograms By GabriellaMileti mountain rangecovering55 percent natural beauty. theApennine With we do,willbeleftwanting more. of ushaveyettodiscover—and, when Molise amysteriousallurethatmany But, it’s thisunknownqualitythatgives call it“theregionthatdoesn’t exist.” Molisani themselveshavebegunto region issooftenoverlooked,the but toItaliansaswell.Infact,the rather unknownnotonlytotourists back tothePaleolithicEra,Moliseis that dates though itboastsahistory region butseparatedin1963.Al- ofthe Abruzzo-Molise originally part agriculture andisolatedvillages. terrain, Molise, knownforitsrugged coast isthelesserknownregionof 22 milesofbreathtakingAdriatic Molise’s charm beginswithits Molise’s charm Italy’s youngestregion,Molisewas Italy andstretchingalong mountain rangeincentral estled intheApennine autumn towards the warmer plainsof autumn towardsthewarmer and climaticregionstwicea year:in geographic to reachtwodifferent and theiranimals(cows sheep) 200 milesthat’s traveledbyshepherds This isatraditionaltrekofmorethan Puglia andMolise,the takes placebetweentheregionsof the siteofacenturies-oldcustomthat undoubtedly spotlocalwildlife. and alongthehillsideswhereyou'll ful pathwayswhileweavingup,down Take awalkandbeledbythebeauti- passes caves,canyonsandwaterfalls. World Fund(WWF),encom- Wide chiaro, undertheprotectionof RegionaleGuardiaregiaCampo- erva majestic mountains.Infact,theRis- enjoy thequietserenityofuntouched those whojustwanttogetawayand it beskiing,hikingorcamping,for those wholovetheoutdoors,whether for of theregion,Moliseisperfect Speaking ofwildlife,Moliseis Molise Region ofHonor Introducing the NIAF 2019 transumanza Region Mysterious Italy’s

. The spectacularMolisevillageofBagnolidelTrigno Campobasso home, exports products Campobasso home,exports pasta company, LaMolisana,calls The 107-year-old, family-owned, forpasta-making. wheat—perfect is aproudproducerofdurum Molise’s agriculture, theregion produced anddelicious bufala, pecorino suspects of Molise, youcanalsofindtheusual in theareaaroundAgnone.But, stracciata Best knownarethe to someoftheworld’s finestcheeses. sheep intheregion,Moliseishome the region. lifein offarming is anessentialpart The province ofIsernia. cally theareaaroundFrosolonein green andabundantpastures,specifi- cooler mountainsofMolisethatoffer Puglia, andinthespringtowards Aside from the dairy aspectof Aside fromthedairy Thanks totheabundanceof cheeses,bothproduced fior dilatte,mozzarella and scamorza caciocavallo . transumanza ,

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3 GybasDigiPhoto/shutterstock shutterstock 59507_Magazine.indd 11 though winesfromMolisedate asfar makes itidealforwinemaking. Al- sun-drenched hills,Molise’s climate its you’ll needaglassofwine. With of Campobasso. Elia aPianisi,locatedintheprovince inSant’ business isheadquartered ly-owned and-operatedinternational even knowit—Colavita!Thefami- Molise inyourkitchenanddidn’t gold. You probablyhavesomefrom quite itsownproductionoftheliquid region’s famedoliveoil.Molisehas At thebaseofragùwillbe pasta shapesoriginallyfromMolise. ragù with pasta inMolise,makesureit’s lamb region! seond-smallest bad forthecountry’s is Italy’s pastabrand.Not fifth-largest and private-label productionservices, to 50countriesworldwide,offers Top left:ThesmalltownofFornelliisclassifiedasonethe Naturally, withadishofpasta, And whenyouorderthatdishof fusilli or cavatelli , thetwo Borghi piùBellid’Italia art ofcasting fineItalianbronzebells. art people ofAgnoneareknown forthe 1,000 yearsthatendurestoday. The bronze-casting legacyofmore than of theearlySamnitetribes, there’s a rocky hillthatwasonceastronghold cient townofAgnone,perchedatopa of skilledcraftsmanship.Inthean- the region,Molisehasaproudhistory then, itswinesareabargain! into arecognizedwineregion.Until oenophiles expectMolisetodevelop the region’s wineproduction,some of varieties representasmallportion nia andTintilia. AlthoughtheDOC andPentrodiIser-DOCs—Biferno, finally gainedthreeofitsownvino It wasn’t untilthe1980sthatMolise andPugliatothesouth. to thenorth shadowed byitsneighborsAbruzzo Romans, Molisewineisoftenover- and ing fromtheSamnites,Etruscans back as500B.C.,withinfluencescom- Besides the culinary aspectsof Besides theculinary , oneofthemostbeautifultownsinItaly. Top right:Termoli beaches.Above:

Claudio Giovanni Colombo/shutterstock November 1-3. Gala Weekend inWashington, D.C., cially honoritatour44thAnniversary Molise throughouttheyear, andespe- And NIAFwillcontinueto celebrate Board ofDirectors’MissiontoItaly. ProgramandtheNIAF of Discovery Ambassador PeterF. SecchiaVoyage Molise thissummerwiththe2019 Italia radar foranupcomingvisitto of Honor, Molise,shouldbeon your mass tourism,NIAF’s 2019Region Vatican forcenturies. has beenmakingchurchbellsforthe cent andprestigiousthatthefoundry since 1339.Thebellsaresomagniﬁ- tools, methodsandprocessemployed toﬁnish,usingthesame from start Marinelli isstillhand-makingbells businesses intheworld,Fonderia One oftheoldestfamily est foundry. The FonderiaMarinelliisItaly’s old- While still largely untouchedby While stilllargely ! NIAF looks forward tovisiting ! NIAFlooksforward caciocavallo Ambassador la bella cheese 6/15/19 10:51 AM 11 WWW.NIAF.ORG 6 FOUNDATION FOCUS / 1

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P M AMB. PETER F. SECCHIA VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY

THE NATIONAL ITALIAN AMERICAN FOUNDATION A Life Changing Experience Scott Suchman

FIRST TIME TRAVEL TO ITALY FOR YOUR DONATION OF... ITALIAN AMERICAN YOUNG ADULTS $75.00 Processes a student’s passport The Ambassador Peter F. Secchia Voyage of $125.00 Pays for a student’s one-night stay in a hotel Discovery Program is a free, life-changing trip to $250.00 Pays for a week’s guided tours Italy for young Italian American adults between the $500.00 Pays for a student’s meals ages of 18 and 23. The trip fosters friendships and $1,000.00 Pays for one roundtrip airfare memories of a lifetime, and in doing so transforms $2,500.00 Pays for one student’s entire ITALY trip! the future of the Italian American community. SUPPORT NIAF’S AMB. PETER F. SECCHIA VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY AT www.NIAF.org/VOD

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90_aaieid 13 59507_Magazine.indd Scott Suchman Ital Unexpected in Washington, HallinNewYork atCarnegie City. D.C.,aswelloneconcert and theWashington National Opera(WNO),andtookplacefromMay3toJune1 featuredtheNationalSymphonyOrchestra(NSO) to theworld.Theperformances showcasedthebreadthanddepthofItaly’s andculturalcontributions that artistic support theJohnF.support KennedyCenter’s This spring,theNationalItalianAmericanFoundationdonated$10,000to By NatalieWulderk y

italian culture acelebrationof

Unexpected Italy at CarnegieHall Symphony Orchestra The National , a series of performances , aseriesofperformances in WNO’s and AlanHeldasScarpia Keri AlkemaasTosca Ambassador

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1 6 59507_Magazine.indd 14 4Ambassador 14 WWW.NIAF.ORG FOUNDATION FOCUS addresses guestsatVillaFirenze. National SymphonyOrchestra’s music director, Right: ItalianconductorGianandreaNoseda,the Varricchio; andconductorGianandreaNoseda viola; LoewiLin,cello; violin; Jae-Yeon (Jennifer)Kim,violin; DanielFoster, Symphony OrchestramusiciansNuritBar-Josef, Kennedy CenterPresidentDeborahRutter;National Above right:Italy’s AmbassadorArmandoVarricchio; Cavaradossi inWNO’s Above: RiccardoMassiandKeriAlkemaas Joseph Lonardo,andTim McBride Kevin Strother, Jeanne(Abate)Allen,AileenCarlucci,RobertJanetDonavon,GabrielA.Battista,BruceHarrison,Pat

Tosca Lucia Noseda;Micaela

Scott Suchman ricia deStacyHarrison,Toni Gordon, 6/15/19 10:51 AM

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90_aaieid 15 59507_Magazine.indd Scott Suchman make NIAF’s contributionpossible. forhelpingto de StacyHarrison, thank youtoNIAFCo-ChairPatricia project required,includingaspecial on theextensivecollaboration The Ambassadorbriefedtheaudience pening inSpringWashington, D.C. other Italianeventsandexhibitshap- robust primavera italiana a the Ambassadorsaid,“Thisistruly Residence, onApril26. ries atVillaFirenze,theAmbassador’s hosted areceptiontolaunchthese- chairoftheprojectand the honorary as VarricchioStates Armando served contributions tooursociety.” way topromoteItaly’s manysigniﬁcant wasawonderful tional performances “Theseriesof12excep- participation. acqua McBridewhoproposedNIAF’s AnitaBev- Vice ChairofCulturalAffairs it,”saidNIAF Foundation supported heritage, andIampleasedthatthe andcultural artistic Italy’s extraordinary Warmly welcomingtheguests, Italy’s AmbassadortotheUnited “ Unexpected Italy Unexpected Italy ,” referring tothe ,” referring was a celebration of wasacelebrationof series aswell ences attheKennedyCenteraswell. the jazztrioDoctor3,captivatedaudi- Molinari andChiaraIzzi,alongwith Hall.JazzsingersSimona at Carnegie attheKennedyCenter,formed and Liszt’s May 11-25.Rossini’s from success duringitsperformances mo Puccini’s pop, jazzandfolkballads.Giaco- showcasing opera,symphonicmusic, pects ofItalianculture. lesser knownaswellfamiliaras- toexperience public anopportunity theAmerican music, butalsooffered series notonlycelebratedItalian plained thatthemonth-longconcert series possible. together tohelpmakethisimpressive ganizations suchasNIAFforcoming the ItalianCulturalInstituteandor- appreciation oftheEmbassyItaly, addressed theguests,expressingtheir Director GianandreaNosedaalso Kennedy CenterandNSOMusical The serieswascomprehensive, During hisremarks,Nosedaex- Deborah Rutter, presidentofthe Dante Symphony Tosca hadwidespread Stabat Mater wereper- and ter for the Performing Arts.” Arts.” ter forthePerforming institutions, theJohnF. KennedyCen- of ournation’s cultural mostimportant withone visionaswellpartner artistic GianandreaNoseda’s nancially support I amextremelyhappythatwecouldﬁ- Battista. “OnbehalfoftheFoundation, mote Italiancultureandheritage,”said aligned withNIAF’s missiontopro- mance ofthefamousItalianopera. evening andweremovedbytheperfor- NIAF attendeesenjoyedthebeautiful Center’s Terrace Restaurant.The ing aspecialItalianmealattheKennedy ning’s Council Members,attendedthateve- along withotherBoardanddaVinci andGabrielA.Battista, Stacy Harrison Italy of aspart concerts fourfreeMillenniumStage offered to allaudiences,theKennedyCenter pation intheseries.To beaccessible nationwide attentiontotheirpartici- adi andsingerMarioBiondigathered Pianist andcomposerLudovicoEinu- , NIAF Chairpersons Patricia de , NIAFChairpersonsPatriciade “We arethrilledthat On May22,tosupport Tosca performance afterenjoy- performance Unexpected Italy Unexpected Italy Unexpected Unexpected Ambassador . /51 10:51 AM 6/15/19

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1 9 59507_Magazine.indd 17 Italy in Rochester in Italy Finding opened in2015.TheTroiano family among localfoodiesdespite having G’s hasalreadyachievedcultstatus variety. Thefamily-operatedMamma authentic Italianfareofthe of generousportions Road, itserves on adullstretchofEastHenrietta Friendly’s ness. Housedinaformer ma G’s appealisitsinconspicuous- What areyourfavoriteItalianrestaurants? Italiancultural venues. important plays hosttosomeofRochester’s most boasts Italianancestry, Gatestoday other resident where, itseems,every Rochesterians. Ablue-collartown nation forthesenewlymiddle-class dor, became themostpopulardesti- corri- Gates, duewestofthatLyell-Jay located tothesuburbs.Thesuburbof swathsofItalianAmericansre- large housing boomwasinfullswing,and Little ItalyHistoricDistrict. asRochester’s AvenueLyell corridor ly recognizedtheregionalong Street Festa,theCityCouncilofficial- June 2,duringthecity’s Little Italy just westoftheGeneseeRiver. On Avenue andJayStreet,between Lyell immigrants settledinthecorridor nity. Inthe1860s,firstItalian of ourItalianAmericancommu- Rochester hasbeentheepicenter What isthemostItalianpartofyourcity? Rochester, N.Y. Donofrio findsItalyinhishometownof AffairsGovernment ManagerPhillip own hometowns. Thisissue, NIAF’s make themfeelmoreItalianintheir information onspecialplacesthat insider members andfriendsprovide everywhere. InNIAFonLocation, our Italy’s influencesinAmericaare or must-visitmarketsandmuseums, restaurants, mostpopularfestivals, Whether it’s thebestItalian First isMammaG’s. ofMam- Part But inthemid-20thcentury, the Traditionally, thewestsideof abruzzese

ports, all roads lead to Olindo Cash & allroadsleadtoOlindo Cash & ports, Italian ingredients? Where doyougotogethard find are alwayshot-bloodedaffairs. (our beloved for Cup viewingparties adult andyouthteams,World Clubsponsorsboth there; theSport Soccer isalsoheldinhighregard guard. tive theymightcatchyouoff socompeti- bocce balltournaments nonna-inspired luncheonsaswell Clubregularlyhosts The Sport to fallinlovewiththeirculture. Italian Americansofallageslearn Club,iswhere Italian AmericanSport Where doyougoforItalianculture? bonafide religiousexperience. A the pack.AnditsFridayfishfry? perennial restaurantfromtherestof andcannoliseparatethis zas, parms itsrecipes,Giuseppe’s piz- perfecting sublime. Afterfourgenerationsof your-name auraiswhatmakesitso useppe’s familial,everybody-knows- RoadinGates,Gi- on Spencerport still ownsandoperatesit.Located 1927 bytheChinappifamily, who rant, Giuseppe’s wasestablished in food.” meaning to“comfort a ma G”)hailsfromPescara.Shemakes chef andmatriarch,Gilda(aka“Mam- Paul Brady Photography pasta allamugnaia If you’reinsearchofItalianim- Another Gatesinstitution,the More institutionthanrestau-

Italian nationalteam)

thatgivesnew gli Azzurri gli Azzurri Sicilian fruits: the Sicilian fruits: where youcanfindthatsweetestof may wellbetheonlystoreinRochester do’s pastaandolivebarsareahit,it and non-perishableItalianfoods,Olin- likely hasit.Asidefromprepackaged If it’s edibleandItalian,Olindo most shoppingexperience. matched, rustic anun- nomic needs,Olindooffers town-favorite Wegman’s formostgastro- average Rochesterianswearsbyhome- Avenue. onLyell Althoughthe Carry surrounding theFestival. surrounding to gaintraction,sotoohasthe buzz LittleItalycontinue ester’s firsttrue ing neighborhoods. AsplansforRoch- of downtownRochester’s mostpromis- eclecticcrowdsinone attracting large, ian Americanvendorsandperformers, The FestivalbringstogetherlocalItal- Junesince2017. Festival thereevery ester hasbeenhostingitsLittleItaly the LittleItalyAssociationofRoch- Avenue andJayStreetcorridor,Lyell Rochester's officialLittleItalyinthe Rochester’s where corridor in thehistoricLyell-Jay Italy havebeenrevived,appropriately, those plans.Now, plansforaLittle quashed regulators begrudgingly might beestablishedinGates.Town swirling thatanofficialLittleItaly in yourcommunity? themostItaliandayofyear What’s To raiseawareness forestablishing began Just afewyearsago,rumors italianità ficodindia dell’etna haditsgenesis. Ambassador . 6/15/19 10:51 AM 17 WWW.NIAF.ORG 6 NIAF ON LOCATION / 1

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2 2 59507_Magazine.indd 20 0Ambassador 20 WWW.NIAF.ORG PAESANI Send [email protected]. doing extraordinarythingsofinterest to ItalianAmericans.KnowsomeonewhoshouldbeinPaesani? Ambassador’s PaesanidepartmentprofilesinshortformthelivesofItalian Americans,Italiansandothers history, essentialtounderstandinghowtheVenice Republic difficulties. workdespiteincreasing who keepproducingwonderful stand thelagoon,andbyshiningalightonartisans aries, suchasonefocusingonBurano’s fishingtounder- visitors ayearisbytakingherclientsonunusualitiner- she says. realities,” aboutdifferent because ithelpspeoplelearn focus onthepositives.“Theactoftravelingfosterspeace the negativeconsequencesofmasstourism,butprefersto to becomeatourguideforherhometownofVenice. 1700s, LuisellaRomeohadperhaps no otherfuturethan tory, inafamilythathasbeenVenetian sinceatleastthe Walking LaSerenissima — SilviaDonati www.instagram.com/luisella_romeo/. on herblogatwww.seevenice.it andon Instagramat about photographingherVenice. Findherphotos promotes sustainabletourism,sheispassionate Romeo’s otherspecialinterestsincludethecity’s Jewish of22 million The wayshecounteractstheeffects Working professionallysince2000,Romeohasseen Growing upamidhundredsofbooksonVenetian his- An activememberofBestVenice Guideswhich a thousand different ways,”saysRomeo. a thousanddifferent for acitythatcanbepresentedin diary chancetobe aninterme- extraordinary city. “Working asaguidehasbeenan applied tothesociallandscapeof especiallywhen art, and contemporary inthe16thcentury, became sopowerful

Paolo Romeo NBC’s Potenza, asemi-ﬁnalistontheeighthseason(2015)of “There’s infailing,ithelpsyougrow,” comfort says admits thatshesingshersongstoinspirepeople. Raising Her Voice — Robert Fanelli Bartus Jr. FanelliBartus — Robert that comesupintheperformance.” she says.“We knowhowtoyell,speakourminds. Allof her successinmusic.“Lotsofpassion,lotspersonality,” Italian heritagehaveplayedamajorroleinherlifeand in and in AmericaatEllisIsland1901.Herfamily’s history band, IanCrossman. Road toRome held inAustin,Texas. Shealsoreleasedhersecondalbum, music festival towatchatthe 30 bestartists claimed shewasoneofthe za’s risingcareer. RollingStone March waseventfulforPoten- solo album, magazine praisedherdebut says. “Mostpeoplehavea1-10range,Ifeellike0-11.” livelypeopleandcraveexpression,anoutlet,”she are avery creativity. “Thereisapassion,zestthatinourblood.We that growingupinabigItalianhousehelpedspurher traces herItalianrootstotheregionofBasilicata,andsays With asoulfulvoice,singer-songwriterWith SarahPotenza Potenza sayshergreat-grandfather, Tommaso, arrived In 2016,RollingStone The RhodeIslandnativeandEastNashvilleresident The Voice Monster , withherguitar-playing andco-writinghus- South bySouthwest . . This NIAF’s , 6/15/19 10:51 AM 6 / 1 8 / 1

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3 Jeremy Ryan Persons ofInterest 59507_Magazine.indd 21 — KirstenKeppel like thiswasnevergoingtohappen,”shesays. the familytraditionshelpedkeepmegroundedwhenI felt rootsareCalabrese.“Allof roots areSicilian;herpaternal search forher“HolyGrail”infightingcancer. Hermaternal Epiphany celebrationinWashington, D.C. Women” atitsannual“ThreeWise honored inJanuary ofItalianAmericanWomenthe NationalOrganization people wouldn’t beinthatsituation,”saysSorbara,whom when herfatherdiedfrombacterialmeningitis. ly-knit, ItalianAmericanfamilyinQueens,N.Y. Shewas14 treatment camefromtragicpersonallossinherclose- innovative molecularanalysistechnologyprograms. Assessment UsingLiquidBiopsy, andrepresentstheNCI’s forEarlyCancer thenewConsortium orative Group,runs detection researchfortheLungCollab- tories researchgrants,coordinatesearly manages BiomarkerReferenceLabora- stitute (NCI),inBethesda,Md.,Sorbara Cancer Prevention,NationalIn- tional InstitutesofHealth’s Division of Biomarkers ResearchGroupattheNa- her life’s workandpetphrasebroadcastworldwide. cancer thescientists’“HolyGrail,”Dr. Sorbarasawboth Lynn medical proceduresthatuseblood,salivaandurinetodetect Early Detection Sorbara credits “From thatdayon,Iwantedtodosomethingsoother Sorbara’s desiretofindearlycancerdetectionand As programdirectorfortheCancer inAprilthatcalled When CNNpublishedanarticle la famiglia with fueling her persistent with fuelingherpersistent part in part witha Campania, brokeintotheindustry emigrated fromtheNaplesareaof including has playedtherolein11otherfilmandTVproductions, Jesus’ compassionandlovingkindness.Sincethen,he he foundpeaceinGospelstudyandprayertoportray remarkable responsibility,” recallsMarchiano,whosays “I wasfilledwithexcitementand,equally, theweightof Jesus wasforthe1993film In HisFootsteps — ChristinaGaleone ing Jesus,”hesays.Visitwww.marchianoministries.com. shaped bothwhoIam…andmyworkasanactorrepresent- and thequalitiesIinheritedfrommyItalianfatherdeeply “MyItalianheritage fluenced hisexuberantperformances. Marchiano saysthegiftofpassionateItalianculturehas in- God. It’s allsobreathtaking.” to atheiststurning fromdrugs; families; peopleturning totheirwivesand were planningsuicide;menreturning “I couldwriteabookofthestoriesI’veheard:peoplewho moved bylettershehasreceived,says has drawnpeopletoChristianity. Deeply impoverished inSouthAfrica. the thatserves nonprofit organization and foundedMarchianoMinistries—a he hasauthoredsixbooksaboutJesus The California native, whose paternal grandparents native,whosepaternal The California Marchianowascastintheroleof The firsttimeBruce Having learned to enjoy life and family from his dad, toenjoylifeandfamilyfromhisdad, Having learned Marchiano lovesthathisroleasJesus Murder, SheWrote Alison’s Choice , whichhewroteanddirected. . Besidesacting, The GospelAccordingtoMatthew masdr21 Ambassador 6/15/19 10:51 AM .

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Christian Galliani came fromthevillageofCapaccioinCampania.Thesead- shops,bakeriesandrestaurants. family-run walks as“soulfulinsiderexperiences”featuringtastingsat a my great-grandfather, whocame fromNaples,opened up inNyack,hearingstoriesofthisneighborhood where nue intheBronx,akaNewYork’s RealLittleItaly. “Igrew delicious experiences. company, thatgivestravelersauthentic,immersiveand food arecombinedinDanielleOteri’s history, andboundlesspassion forItalian degree inart Best ofBoth Worlds — SusanVan Allen Visit: www.feastonhistory.com ger—-thousands ofyearscivilization.…” blendingwithsomethingbig- feeling ofmyfamilyhistory baccala Italy, grandmother, inspiredbyhermaternal who Ave-Stateside, shehascreatedwalkingtoursofArthur Italianancestors,amaster’s Inspiration fromsouthern shopin1918,”Oterisays.Travelers praiseher ventures, basedinan tours there…Ihavethisamazing tion, andnowwhenI’mleading mychildhoodimagina- stirred pottery,” saysOteri.“Herstories tum, gatheringpiecesofancient shadow ofthetemplesPaes- me howshelovedplayinginthe UNESCO World Heritagesites. trackvillages,and off-the-beaten bine cookingclasses,wineries, owned byOteri’s cousins,com- “My grandmotherwouldtell Feast onHistory agriturismo NIAF’s Persons ofInterest

Christian Galliani — JanAngilella year,” hesays.“I’mwaitingforthattohappen.” him aboutseeingtheraceinItaly. “Thisisonly our11th the restoftheirlives.Nooneyethascomebacktotell threetimesaroundthecourse. and running the horsesduringmass,doingaflagroutineuponarrival, themselves. and dotherunning third-graders, strapacardboardhorsearoundshoulder they go,suchas fantino a sectionorneighborhood) torepresent,andarider, or ings inwhicheachgradeselectsa al race, inthetraditionofactu- commemorating eachyear’s students createdposters hang initshallways.The bought asetoftheflagsthat tion attheschool.Dattilo 11th PaliodiSienacelebra- our school,”hesays. thought ofstagingsomethingwiththeflagsSienafor around witha del CampoinSiena2006whenhesawaboyrunning parish inCincinnati,Ohio,wasstandingthePiazza Hold YourHorses palio Dattilo believesit’s anexperiencetheywillremember They replicateafewotherSienatraditions:blessing During anannualassembly, theschoolholdsdraw- This yearmarkedthe Father AnthonyDattilooftheSt.CatherineSiena . DattilomakessuretoincludetheItaliannamesas bannersinSiena,heldonJuly2andAugust16. contrada Onda (wave),or flaginhishand.“Iimmediately o re Tor contrada (tower).Theriders, (asinSiena, /51 10:51 AM 6/15/19 6 / 1

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2 8 90_aaieXid 26 59507_Magazine_X.indd 6Ambassador 26 WWW.NIAF.ORG CIAO ITALIA Mixed Grill( SUMMER GRILLING GREATS By Mary AnnEsposito By Mary spiedo misto ) AVNAVN Photo Photo Lab Lab / Shutterstock/ Shutterstock D olive oilanddousingthemwithlemonjuice. with theirhands,dippingeachleafinextravirgin would sitonwoodenbenchesanddevouredthem withtingededges.Fieldhands smoky perfection on reallyhotembersoveragrillandgrilledto season, Isawplentyofthepricklybeautiestossed Italy. OneyearinSicilyduring thefallartichoke natural flavorsofthefoodshine. keep thecookingtreatmentsimple,andlet Their attitudeis:usethefreshestingredients, as oneoftheirfavoritemodescooking. can’t begrilled—fromveggiestodessert. in ence, theonlywaytohavea steak is ripe tomatoes,wassucculent andmoist.InFlor- paper), witharomaticherbs, olivesandslicesof bistecca allagriglia In Naples, inmytravels inmytravels I havefoundthattobetrue Italians haveadoptedgrilling( is outdoorsonthegrill.Andnothing way tocookanythinginmyopinion uring thelazydaysofsummer, thebest pesce alcartoccio , charred on the outside but ontheoutsidebut , charred (fish grilled in (fishgrilledin alla griglia alla griglia , as , as W ) ITH I with cooking stone andcookthepizzain justafewminutes. out ofituntilIcanslidethe doughontothe pizza stoneoverthegrateand heattheblazes become mypseudopizzaoven.Ijustplacea edge NeapolitanpizzaIcrave,justletmygrill forthatcharred in ourbackyard,necessary and apricotsworkbest. likepeaches,nectarines the grill.Stonefruits or reallyripegarden-freshtomatoes. olive oilandlotsofcrackedblackpepper virgin crostini grilling practicesaswell,evenusingthegrillfor arugula. oflemonjuiceandoftentoppedwithspicy squirt drizzledwitholiveoil,a drizzledwitholiveoil,a open flameandserved sin).Thesteakiscookedoveran done (amortal ontheinside.Don’t askforitwell hardly warmed TALIAN So, don’t sweatitthissummer, go ofhavingagenuinepizzaoven And short takesongreattastefrom Even freshfruit toadaptItalian In myownkitchen,Itry (grilled bread) served topped with extra toppedwithextra (grilledbread)served F LARE alla griglia . al fresco /81 12:31 PM 6/18/19

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2 John Hession 9 90_aaieXid 27 59507_Magazine_X.indd meaning cutintoslices. to onrestaurantmenusas oil andsalt.Thedishisoftenreferred olive greens dressedwithextravirgin orothersalad today withspicyarugula specialty, butisalsocommonlyserved cannellini beans,anotherTuscan fairly rawinside. ontheoutsidebutremains charred is served that thecattlefeedon.Atrue fat andjuicy, owingtotherichgrasses The meatfromthesecowsislowin breed ofgrayish-whiteChianinacattle. signature dish. you mustorder coal ﬁre.AndifyouareinFlorence, steak,” sinceitwascookedoverachar- the name steak”) foraT-bone steak,itwentby Recipe fromwww.ciaoitalia.com • • • • • • • Directions leaves 1 cupfresharugula oliveoil ¼ cupextravirgin ½ cupredwine 1½ poundwell-marbledT-bone steak, ½ teaspoonsalt leaves 2 tablespoonsfreshrosemary 2 clovesgarlic,peeled Ingredients 4 Serves Bistecca allaFiorentina Florence Style Charcoal GrilledT-Bone Steak, word serve. Top saladand thesteakwith thearugula thick slicesandplacethemon a platter. When thesteakisready, cutitinto¼inch olive oilandsalttogether. remaining In abowl,tossthearugula, the steakasitcooks. 2 tablespoonsoftheoliveoil,andbrush While thesteakcooks,mixwineand ture registers125˚Fformediumrare. tempera- on theoutsideandinternal Grill thesteakuntilitisnicelybrowned over thesteakandplaceitongrill. and salttogether. Rubthismixtureall Meanwhile, mincethegarlic,rosemary will do.Getithot Fire upthegrill;charcoalisbest,butgas about 2inchesthick Traditionally it was served with Traditionally itwasserved What makesitsospecial?The Before theTuscans coinedthe bistecca al sangue carbonate (fromtheEnglish“beef- bistecca allaﬁorentina , meaningrare.Itis —literally “carbon tagliata bistecca , , a

Paul Lally Charcoal GrilledT-Bone Steak,FlorenceStyle( Small bunchoffreshsageleaves 4 thickslicespancettacutinto1-inch squares whitewine ¼ cupdry andcutinto2-inchsquares red,greenandyellow)cored, seeded, of 3 mediumbellpeppers(anassortment ¼ cupoliveoil needles 2 tablespoonschoppedfreshrosemary 2 tablespoonsmincedfreshsage 3 clovesgarlic,peeledandcrushed Coarse groundblackpeppertotaste Coarse salttotaste 1 poundskinless,bonelesschickenthighs 1 poundbonelessbeeforvealloin 1 poundbonelessporkloin Ingredients 8 Serves Spiedo Misto Mixed Grill about themeritsofUmbrianfoods. engaged meinalongconversation diners atthetablewerealllocalsand than awisechoicebecausetheother spiedo misto white-checked tableclothsandordered picnic tablecoveredwithred-and- ﬁre. Isatunderagrapearboratlong an style, menu wascookedintheclassicUmbri- onthe outdoor ristorante,everything In Umbria, at La Stalla, a rustic In Umbria,atLaStalla,arustic alla griglia (mixedgrill).Itwasmore , grilledonanopen Bistecca allaFiorentina Adventures inItaly) Recipe from • • • • • Directions oliveoil Extra virgin ½ cupfreshlemonjuice cutintochunks ¾ poundsweetorhotItaliansausage, until donetotaste,about8-12 minutes. andbastingtheskewers, Grill, turning with themarinade. inade; placethemonthegrill,andbaste rack. Removetheskewersfrommar- Heat thegrillandlightlyoil them often. in therefrigerator, bastingandturning them. Letthemmarinateforseveralhours drizzle thelemonjuiceandoliveoilover enough toholdtheminasinglelayerand Place theskewersinanonmetaldishlarge pieces ontheskewers. per andsausage.Donotcrowdtoomany chicken, pancetta,sageleaf,veal,bellpep- skewers inthisorder:pork,bellpepper, is reducedbyabouthalf.Threadmetal Add thewineandcookuntilliquid the peppersuntiltheyarecrisp-tender. asautépan,heattheoliveoilandcook In Setaside. kle withtherosemary. chicken withsaltandpeppersprin- and sprinklewiththesage.Season son thebeeforvealwithsaltandpepper with thegarlic.Sea- and pepperrub cubes. Seasontheporkwithcoarsesalt Cut themeatsandchickenintol-inch ) Ciao Italia

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3 0 90_aaieid 28 59507_Magazine.indd 8Ambassador 28 WWW.NIAF.ORG CIAO ITALIA Brava, Ann! Mary temperaturein • Grilluntiltheinternal • Whenreadytogrill,removechicken • Laythechickenflatincasseroledish thechicken.Layitbacksideupand • Dry casseroledish,combinethe • Inalarge Directions fortheChicken • • • • • Directions fortheHerbMixture oliveoil 3 tablespoonsextravirgin Juice of2lemons One 4-5poundchicken 2 teaspoonscoarsesalt clovesgarlic 4 large 1 cupsageleaves needles 2 cupsfreshrosemary Ingredients 3to4 Serves Pollo allaGrigliaeErbeToscane Grilled Chicken&Tuscan Herbs the meattocookandbrownevenly. Known asspatchcocking,thisallows so thechickenliesflatongrill. this recipe,thebackboneisremoved fiorentina thing, fromtheclassic fond Tuscans areofgrillingevery- how grilled chickenfromobserving “Her friendlydemeanorandwelcoming kitchenwilltickleyourtastebuds….”CheckoutMaryAnn’s Blogatwww.ciaoitalia.com/ma into its30thseason.“Eachblogpost isaccompaniedbyavideoclipofMaryAnnEspositoguidingherfollowers througheachre class.com) of“Top ItalianFoodBloggersYou ShouldFollow.” ItpraisedMaryAnn’s Blogas“a perfectcompanion”toherPBS-TV nary gift,too. nary and soups.Itmakesagreatlittleculi- roasts. Mixitintosautéedvegetables onchicken andpork Use ittorub in therefrigerator. Transfer themixturetoajarandkeepit overnight. allow ittodry Spread themixtureonpapertowelsand dients. knifeandmincetheingre- Use achef’s and saltonacuttingboard. Make apileoftherosemary, sage,garlic 165˚F. Cutintopiecestoserve. ofbreastmeatreaches the thickestpart side down. heated grilloverindirectheat,breast from marinadeandplaceitonapre- Cover andrefrigerateovernight. italloverwiththemarinade. and rub cook evenlyandbrownnicely. bone away. Thiswillallowthe chickento using akitchenscissorscuttheback- Stir incupoftheherbmixture. lemon juiceand2tablespoonsoliveoil. I took my inspiration for this I tookmyinspirationforthis to vegetables and poultry. In In tovegetablesandpoultry. bistecca alla bistecca alla Mary AnnEsposito’s blog

John Hession Recipe fromwww.ciaoitalia.com • • • Directions 2 tablespoonshoney ¼ cupoliveoil 1 teaspoondriedoregano Juice of2limes Black peppertotaste Salt totaste For theMarinade skewers(optional) Pre-soaked rosemary 1 onionquartered 1 yellowpeppercutinto1-inch longstrips 1 redpeppercutinto1-inchlongstrips 2 mediumeggplantscutinto1-inch 2 medium-sizezucchini,cutinto1-inch Ingredients 4 Serves Verdure allaGriglia Grilled Vegetables retain somealdentecharacteristics. don’t getthemtoomushy;theyshould they cookataboutthesametime.And so just remembertocutthemuniformly full ofﬂavorwhencookedonthegrill; charred. Place onthegrill,andgrilluntilslightly stems. long rosemary Thread themonskewersorpresoaked to coatthemwell. bowl;addthevegetablesandtoss large Combine themarinadeingredientsina rounds rounds Vegetables outsucculentand turn Ciao Italia wasrankedNo.3recentlybyGood Tastes ofTuscany (tuscany-cooking- • • • • • • • • Directions Small bunchfreshbasilleaves 4 ripenectarines,pittedandcutinhalf ½ inchpiecevanillabean,splitlengthwise 2 tablespoonshoney Juice ofonelemon ½ cupwhitewine ½ cupwater Ingredients 4 Serves Nectarines InSweetBasilSyrup getsatasteoveronthegrill. Even fruit Recipe fromwww.ciaoitalia.com

andthenintoslices andseedsscraped John Hession basil leaves. withfresh garnish liquid overthefruit; cupsandpoursomeofthe dessert To spoonthe slicesintosmall serve, Strain theliquid. volume; andcool. Reduce theliquidinpanuntilhalf Drain thenectarineslicesandsetaside. tocoolinliquid. and allowthefruit heat,add3or4basilleaves Turn off nectarine slicesandcook1minute. Lower theheattosimmerandadd Bring toaboilandcookfor3minutes. bean seeds. 1 tablespoonhoney, andthevanilla saucepan. Stirinthelemonjuice, Pour thewaterintoamedium-size Nectarines InSweetBasilSyrup tables ( Toscane Herbs ( Left: GrilledChickenwithTuscan Pollo allaGrigliaalleErbe cipe,” the review said. cipe,” thereviewsaid. Verdure allaGriglia ) servedwithGrilledVege- show, nowheading ry-anns-blog. ).

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P M NEW BOOK Ciao Italia My Lifelong Food Adventures in Italy

BY MARY ANN ESPOSITO

Companion to the PBS series Ciao Italia

Featuring over 150 recipes, gorgeous food photos and scenics.

Available at fine bookstores and online retailers everywhere, or order direct from Pathway Book Service: www.pathwaybook.com | 1-800-345-6665.

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gw.pdf 31 6/18/19 12:40 PM termoli Mei/shutterstock Valerio Molise’s Coastal Treasure

Summer in Italy conjures up images of sparkling seas, vibrant umbrellas lined up in neat rows on wide sandy beaches, and bathers adorned with fashionable sunglasses. Along with the visuals come names of tourist-beloved destinations: Positano, Forte dei Marmi, Cefalu in Sicily.

Famous for its charming, By Susan Van Allen medieval downtown, Termoli is perched on a rocky promontory WWW.NIAF.ORG Mila Croft / shutterstock

30 Ambassador

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3 Mila Croft / shutterstock 3 Valerio Mei/shutterstock 59507_Magazine.indd 31 F dral of Saint Mary ofthePurification, dral ofSaintMary toric center, istheRomanesque Cathe- symbol fortheMolisecoast. dings andculturalevents,as wellasa become apopularspotforcivilwed- calledtheSvevoCastle,has structure, this toweringlimestoneandsandstone Termoli’s castle.Overthecenturies, he hadextensiverenovationsmadeto many andItaly. To defendthearea, with avisiontounitewhat’s nowGer- Frederick IIofSwabiacamethrough, leader Middle Ages,whenNorman standing mealoffresh-caughtfish. and sea,mostmemorably, anout- tower, enchanting springtimeblur:castle, of Termoli. Theexperiencewasan opened toabreathtakingpanorama a drivetolunch.Inanhour, theroad soon thefourofuswereinhisFiatfor He immediatelycalledhiswife,and mo, whohappenedtobethemayor. with mysister, wemetcousinGiaco- of Campobasso.Onmyfirstvisitthere village ofVinchiaturo,outsidethecity my Molisanicousins,wholiveinthe for theircleanwaters. the BlueFlagbyEuropeanUnion that havebeenconsistentlyawarded excellent fishrestaurants,andbeaches medievaltown,livelyport, preserved Italian destination,completewitha li. Hereyou’lldiscoveranauthentic From thesameperiod,in his- Termoli haditsheydayinthelate I wasintroducedtoTermoli by on thecoastofMolise:Termo- about ajewel-of-a-beachvillage ew foreigntouristshaveheard lungomare openinguptobeach

maudanros/shutterstock maudanros/shutterstock scene beckons. cousin’s, Termoli’s summerbeach heradvice,alongwithmyWith tors throughhercompany, Moleasy. dent whocustomizestours forvisi- Maria LauraPace,aTermoli resi- changed, it’s simpleandopen,”says where itseemsthatnothinghas passeggiata the wholetowncomesoutfor evening atmosphere,whenitseems and festivals,atranquil,cozy Puglia, thereareoutdoorconcerts vacationing ItaliansfromNaplesand the sea.Classicbeachclubsfillupwith Termoli, lifenaturallyrevolvesaround to thepier’s huttogettheircatch. attached could lowernetsfromarms on unpredictablewaters,fishermen 18th-century, soinsteadoftaking contraption wascreatedinthe called a attheendofapier,wooden structure you’llseeaunique filling theport, main business,andalongwithboats restaurants. by aromasofbakeriesandseafood one cangethappilylost,surrounded thecathedral,where ways surrounds alley- Apostle Paul.Amazeofnarrow sea, andSaintTimothy, adiscipleof and protectsallfromdangersofthe tofishermen who bringsgoodfortune here withtheirrelics:SaintBasso, moli’s twopatronsaintsarehonored window, andsculptedcolumns.Ter- withlionsandgriffins,arose adorned “This is truly atimelessplace “This istruly comesto When summertime Fishing haslongbeenthetown’s trabucco , a leisurely walk, and gelato. , aleisurelywalk,andgelato. . Thisingenious Ambassador una 6/15/19 10:52 AM 31 WWW.NIAF.ORG 6 / 1

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3 4 59507_Magazine.indd 32 2Ambassador 32 WWW.NIAF.ORG the entrancetoTermoli's oldvillage Top: Termoli seasideatdusk; Above:SvevoCastle,at

Renato Corradi (www.ristorantenicolino.it) in bubblingtomatosauce,getsraves. calamari Ripieni inPurgaturio-stuffed traditional of theCastelloSvevo.Alongwith elegant restaurant,locatedinfront family haswelcomedgueststothis Best placesto red pepper, togiveadistinctiveflavor. fish andsole),withsweetgreenhot mantis shrimp,mussels,clams,cuttle- posed ofthecatchday(suchas refined overtheyears,andnowiscom- an openfire.Therecipehasbeen potsover and cookedinearthenware sold atthemarketwouldbecombined ago, whenscrapsoffishthatweren’t a in Termoli. Thisfishstewcomes from dialect) iswhat-to-orderwhendining Brodetto allaTermolese EATING (Via FedericoildiSvevia21) withfreshfish. panini stuffed popular street-foodshopthat serves light dinnerorsnack,head tothis Eattico brodetto fish, excellentpastas,andtraditional freshfried in theoldtown,thatoffers trattoriatuckedintoanalley family run Trattoria TipicaL’Opera Nicolino (www.osteriadentrolemura.it) welcomingpride. warm, theestablishmentwith wife Linarun Antonio Terzano andhissommelier fresh fish,andpanoramicterrace. listing foritssimplepreparationsof aMichelinGuide that hasearned menu atthisSlowFoodrestaurant, Osteria cucina povera . (www.trattorialopera.com) —For aquickanddelicious

Dentro LeMura —Since 1975, the Caruso —Since 1975,theCaruso brodetto tradition from centuries traditionfromcenturies mangia bene , theirCalamari ( U’ bredette —A humble, —A humble, —There isno : in in

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3 Renato Corradi 5 maudanros/shutterstock 59507_Magazine.indd 33 (www.calasveva.it) for seasideweddings. a discoatnight,andispopularspot into excellent restaurant,transforms side,thisclubhasan on thenorth (www.lidotricheco.it) excellentpizzas. the restaurantserves locals intheeveningshere,when the waterandonsand.Join aerobicclasses,in organizes tennis, volleyballandsoccer. Thestaff types, withplentyofspaceforbeach Lido Tricheco: Cala Sveva: calm sea. relaxing andenjoyingaswiminthe forsimply sideisperfect the north andwindsurﬁng,while beach sports the oldtownhavemorefacilitiesfor the restaurants.Clubstosouthof rent umbrellas,beachbeds,andenjoy much betterexperience,asyoucan checking intoaclubwillgiveyou Termoli hasasmallpublicbeach,but BEACH CLUBS Locatedclosetothecastle

Perfect for sporty forsporty Perfect An excellent and breakfastroomnearby. community, withacentralreception alberghi historic center. Stayinginoneofthese renovating agroupofbuildingsin a“hotel”iscreatedby new structure, Friuli Venezia. Ratherthanbuildinga created inthe1980sregionof This styleofaccommodationswas inTermoli.concept hastakenoff The facilities. www.marturresort.com withkitchen there areapartments vate beach.Alongwithhotelrooms, great forfamilies,withapoolandpri- (santaluciahotel.it) make this4-starhotelafavorite. setting andclassicallystyledrooms (www.residenzasveva.com) makes themfeelembracedlikefamily. that of thesea,andpersonalservice spacious antique-styledrooms,views Residenza Sveva. Resort: Martur Santa Lucia: SLEEPING Boat intheTrimiti Seaeast of Termoli Albergo Diffuso Albergo immersesatravelerinthe A marvelous beachfront Amarvelous Albergo Diffuso Albergo This modern resort is resort Thismodern Guestslovethe (dispersedhotel) inTermoli:

Renato Corradi and fireworks surround thefestivities. and fireworkssurround the cathedralforamass.Music,food, to men’s market,andfinallyreturned atthefisher-ride, placedovernight the saint’s statueissentonaboat where from thecathedraltoport, Patron Saintbeginswithaprocession A grandcelebrationofTermoli’s August 3-5 San Basso andtheoldtown. connects theport lore—a widestaircaseandlandingthat air settingoftheScalinettadiFolk- Shows takeplaceinthestunningopen their traditionaldances. performing to Termoli weekend, foracolorful Groups fromallovertheworldcome Late July Folklore Festival International SUMMER FESTIVALS Italy: ForWomen Only, smallgrouptours. She alsodesignsandhostsGolden Weeks in Woman ShouldGo es inItalyEvery Susan Van Allenistheauthorof More Info:www.moleasy.org tacular finaleoffireworks. friedfish,bands,andaspec- serving tion, thetown’s fillswithstands port Celebrating Termoli’s fishingtradi- Late August Sagra diPesce(FishFestival) thatgoesonuntil theweehours. party completethe food stallsattheport huge, dramaticlightshow. Musicand ing tothecastle,andculminatesina byboatandparad- characters arriving Svevo Castle.Itbeginswithcostumed ofthe Saracen attackandburning This festivalre-enactsthe16th-century August 15 Incendio alCastello(CastleFire)

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By Frank Van Riper Photos © Goodman/Van Riper PhotographyTODI A HIDDEN JEWEL IN THE CENTER OF ITALY

þǠơɽʋɭʠǌǌȍơŹơʋˁơơȥʋǠơɽơʋˁȶɽʋɭȶȥǌ࢚ˁǫȍȍơƎȟơȥࢎʋǠơáȶɢơˁŔȥʋɽ his lasting artistic legacy to be done fast; Michelangelo insists the work will be done when he says it’s done) takes place in the heart èȶȟơ࡫ǫȥʋǠơĪŔʋǫƃŔȥࢫɽǌȍȶɭǫȶʠɽòǫɽʋǫȥơ-ǠŔɢơȍࡲ ¶ɭƎȶơɽǫʋࡳ

In fact, director Carol Reed’s opulent, ȥƎˁǠŔʋȶǉèȶȟơǫʋɽơȍǉŔɽʋǠơ ¶ɽƃŔɭ࢚ˁǫȥȥǫȥǌ˪ȍȟ࡫The Agony and áȶɢơȟŔȇơɽǠǫɽʋɭǫʠȟɢǠŔȍơȥʋɭŔȥƃơ the Ecstasy (1965), was shot nowhere ŔǉʋơɭˊơʋŔȥȶʋǠơɭȟǫȍǫʋŔɭˊʽǫƃʋȶɭˊࡳ near these two sites. A full-scale That would be the Piazza del replica of the Sistine Chapel was built áȶɢȶȍȶ࡫ɽȶȟơࠇ߿ȟǫȍơɽnorʋǠȶǉ ŔʋʋǠơǉŔȟơƎ-ǫȥơƃǫʋʋŪ˪ȍȟɽʋʠƎǫȶɽ èȶȟơ࡫ǫȥʋǠơɽȟŔȍȍˊơʋɽʋʠȥȥǫȥǌ ȶȥʋǠơȶʠʋɽȇǫɭʋɽȶǉèȶȟơʋȶŔȍȍȶˁǉȶɭ čȟŹɭǫŔȥǠǫȍȍʋȶˁȥȶǉþȶƎǫ࢖ŔɢȍŔƃơ ʠȥǫȟɢơƎơƎ˪ȍȟǫȥǌ࡫ȥȶʋǿʠɽʋȶǉʋǠơ ʋǠŔʋɭơȟŔǫȥɽʋȶʋǠǫɽƎŔˊȶȥơȶǉ Chapel interior but of Heston on his Italy’s, if not the world’s, cultural ŹŔƃȇɢŔǫȥʋǫȥǌǠǫɽȟŔɽʋơɭɢǫơƃơȶȥʋǠơ ŔȥƎǠǫɽʋȶɭǫƃǿơˁơȍɽʋǠŔʋǉŔɭʋȶȶ chapel’s vaulted ceiling. ȟŔȥˊʋȶʠɭǫɽʋɽȥơʽơɭǠŔʽơɽơơȥࡲ

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3 7 59507_Magazine.indd 35 minimalist façadeandrose window itfromoneendisthe ri. Surveying del CapitanoandPalazzodei Prio- Palazzo enclosed bythe13th-century guide callsitanunderstatedserenity showy aboutPiazzadelPopolo;one most photogenicpiazzas.Nothingis than anywhereelseinItaly. Renaissance architecturetherebetter theMedievaland helped preserve three setsofancientwallsthathave is history, encircledbynotonebut it israretofindallofthemtogether.” various localesthroughouttheworld, ally, eachofthese couldbefoundin ly lowcostofliving.Whileindividu- thesafety…andarelative- everything), size (andconcomitantaccessibilityto views…the depthofhistory, thesmall thetown,incredible that permeates sans…the strongsenseofcommunity andarti- high concentrationofartists specialaspects[including]the very from Atlanta,notes:“Todi hasitsown to Todi withherfamilysevenyearsago environment inwhichtolive. creating asimpatico,human-scale Roman, Medieval,etc.—whilealso clung toitshistoricpast—Etruscan, Ithas Umbri, thentheEtruscans. go backsome3,000yearstotheearly of Italy.”“the greenheart Todi’s roots only landlockedregionanddubbed ly, nearthemiddleofUmbria,Italy’s Todi hasoneofcentralItaly’s Certainly, whatonefindsinTodi As AlexandraHook,whomoved Todi centerofIta- liesinthevery Maria dellaSaluteinVenice. Italian church,LaChiesadi Santa intimacy, reminiscentofanothergreat the churchgivesitbothgrandeur and The almostcircularconfigurationof Latin-cross designsoftheRenaissance. more commonelongatedbasilicaor distinguishes Consolazionefromthe monumental whitedome.Thisdesign bya symmetrical plan,surmounted features anunusualcentralized, sance-style pilgrimagechurch,it atriptoTodi.worth ARenais- work. century’s mante) andfinishedin1607aftera Renaissance architectDonatoBra- Caprarola (inthestyleofgreat Consolazione, designedbyColada walls: thechurchofSantaMariadella building isjustdownhillfromits dral. Thetown’s mostphotographed of Todi’s RomanesqueGothic Cathe- Dirtied upPiazzadelPopoloinTodi stagingasthe16th-century Romeforthefilmingof By itself,Cosolazionemaybe quent poetry writteninvernacular. quent poetry Dante, wasthefirsttopopularize elo- nature, butalsoforthefactthat he,not gentle and,attimes,politically incorrect pone isreveredinTodi, notjustforhis Dante didinneighboringTuscany. Jaco- inthelocaldialectbefore lyrical poetry Pope BonifaceVIII.Healsowrote outspoken opponentofmoney-loving was awanderingFranciscanfriarand Nicknamed “God’s Jester,” Jacopone tomb ofJacoponeTodi (1230–1306). the crypt houses initsunderground animposingbuildingthat Fortunato, 150-step belltowerofthechurchSan backdrop hills—isfromthetopof tectonic plates,havetakentheirtoll. timeand tles. But,aswewilllearn, statuesofChrist’shoused large apos- in thefirstthreeapsesofchurch solazione: formanyyears,12niches The bestviewofTodi—and ofits An interestingnoteaboutCon- The AgonyandtheEcstasy scene filmedinTodi The AgonyandtheEcstasy Michelangelo in Charlton Hestonas Ambassador 6/15/19 10:52 AM

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3 8 59507_Magazine.indd 36 36 WWW.NIAF.ORG Ambassador visit, theyjustrelax….” ians…[and] whenpeople come to comes outofthemouths Ital- going, that’s theﬁrstwordthat place andtheyaskmewhereI’m or wall.“WhenI’matthecarrental house builtwithinthetown’s exteri- months ayearinlovelymulti-story wife, Debbie,nowspendsthree who,withhissecond Senate staffer Badger, WhiteHouseand aformer to mindis clerics. “Thewordthatcomesmost lection ofchurchesandeloquent But Todi ismorethan acol- tranquilla View fromtheHotelFonteCesia

Steps atSanFortunato ,” saysDoug most livablecityintheworld? [The la cittàpiuvivibiledelmondo commune,wasdubbed surrounding ly 2,500andanother14,000 inthe populationofrough- a permanent longtime NewYork stakes. toTodi,permanently pullinguptheir nese-American husbandaremoving would bearoundmeinminutes.” ated. “IfIneededsomething,people get toknowyou,astrongbondiscre- in manysmalltowns,oncethelocals don’t feelit,”shesays,addingthat,as that youeitherfeelitor New York. “ThereisamagicinTodi dividing hertimebetweenTodi and ian, movedtoTodi some30yearsago, bought,” hesays. realtor. “ThesecondplaceIsaw, I his latewife,Dawn,hadvisitedalocal angels.” butthechoirof the hill…everything and thegrey-stonehomesspillingdown was thatTodi skylinewithSanFortunato na andgotupabovethefogthere Roma- ing upthehilltowardPorta was inthefog,November. I’mclimb- and werentedacardroveup…it Badger says,“IwasinRomeoneday people allthetime.” pasta place,thegreengrocer…see can walktothebutcher, thehandmade you’ve comehome…aplacewhereyou places you’veneverbeenandfeltthat Piazza delPopolo So, it’s nowonderthatTodi, with Chen sayssheandherChi- AuthorPatriziaChen,anativeItal- By theendofday, Dougand Recalling theﬁrsttimehesawTodi, Todi, hesays,“isoneofthose —the historian BarbaraNovak.Over more (aka PatrickIreland)andhis wife,art BrianO’Doherty Irish-American artist painted house”),theTodi homeof pointment, intheCasaDipinta (“the over” isviewabletoday, byspecialap- “age” thesetting. andmockivytoproperly with dirt public buildingswerepaperedover stones. Andtheelegantfacadesofits in tothePiazzacoveritsneatpaving movies, tonsofsoilhadtobetrucked back in1965,whenTodi inthe starred this clean,elegantsetting.Bycontrast, acquaintances takingtheeveningairin intotheirfriendsor we invariablyrun whenever IaminthePiazzawithlocals, es. AnothersignofTodi’s small size: al fresco are packedwithpatronsenjoyingthe fall eveningswhenitsbarsandcafes never cacophonous,evenduringcrisp Times Square,PiazzadelPopolois and onegloriouscathedral.Unlike terely beautifulandancientbuildings, byaus- trafﬁc-free spacesurrounded yet alsoelegant:acleanlydemarcated, the sizeofVenice’s PiazzaSanMarco) is comparativelytiny(maybeathird Square, isstaggering.First,thePiazza the PiazzadelPopoloand,say, Times York City, andthecontrastbetween priate description.IgrewupinNew asexieradjective.] counts preferred sensible urbanscale,butpressac- world’s most“sustainable”city, forits Kentucky studydescribedTodi asthe actual accoladefromaUniversityof A farmoreelegant“painting Still, “livable”seemsanappro- seatingatthesquare’s edg- 6/15/19 10:52 AM 6 / 1

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3 9 59507_Magazine.indd 37 that stupidhillIhate,but Debbie Badger:“Andthen[there’s] would besitedupthesteephill. legend, itsoonwasdecidedthatTodi from theheavensand,accordingto a nearbyhill.Thiswasseenassign their foodanddepositeditatop the clothonwhichtheyhadset swooped downandgrabbed were eatingtheirlunch,aneagle goes,whileworkers so thestory along theTiber River. Oneday, planned tosettleonlevelground in 2707B.C.bylocalswhoinitially ing tolegend,Todi wasfounded Blame thatontheeagle.Accord- way ofsayingTodi ishillyashell. pyramid-shaped town,afancy ceilings thatworksbeautifully. coloredwallsand riot ofprimary their cozy, homeintoa multi-story than 40years,theyhaveturned The churchofSantaMariadellaConsolazione Steep,butwithbeneﬁts.Notes It hasbeendescribedasa Fra

Jacopone ofTodi kitchen wall that had been making a kitchen wallthathadbeenmaking a But notwithoutatleastone change. we bothwentbacktosleep.” Debbie: ‘Makeitstop.’Me:‘OK.’And Ireplied. think itwasanearthquake,’ night. Debbiesaid,‘Whatwasthat?’‘I inthemiddleof struck earthquake then. AsDougBadgerrecalls:“The the west.Still,fateseemedtosmileeven town ofAmatrice,lessthan100milesto destroyedthe 2016, asevereearthquake of naturaldisasters.Inthesummer ithasalsohaditsshare seems charmed, never lookedback. above thePiazzadelPopolo.We’ve elegant and HotelFonteCesia,asmall, family-run Ultimately, withthe wepartnered oureyestoTodi.ing fall,didweturn a newworkshopcenterforthefollow- available, andwehadtoscramblefor give Todi muchthought. we enjoyedwithourfriends,didn’t shops. Exceptforthegreatrestaurants our annualfallUmbriaPhotoWork- wherefroma rentedvillaweled north, townofCannara,25miles farming Doug andDebbieonourwaytothe passing through,visitingourfriends more thanadecadeago.We just were Todi beforewefellinlovewithit States] fourpoundsthinner.” we want,andIcomehome[tothe the pastaIwant…drinkallwine that hill,Idon’t getfat.Icaneatall because Ikeepgoin’upanddown “As I recall, it was a clock on our “As Irecall,itwasaclockon our dawnedwithTodiMorning intact. ofLaBelPaese If thisbeautifulpart Only afterourvillanolongerwas My wifeJudyandIdidn’t seek out molto simpatico Count EugenioPongellitoursvisitorsinhisancestralPalaceTodi. hotel just & Paris1960-1980 est bookis GVRphoto.com, underworkshops. Hislat- visitwww. information, man. Formore JudithGood- wife andprofessionalpartner workshops inMaineandItalywithhis Echo Park,Md.,andleadsphotography teaches photographyatPhotoworksinGlen (www.TalkingPhotography.com). He cial photographer, authorandcolumnist andcommer- ton D.C.-baseddocumentary FrankVanJournalist RiperisaWashing- apostles standinthechurchtoday. yet tobereplaced,sostatuesofonly11 its pedestalandwasshattered.Ithas ria dellaConsolazionetoppledfrom inSantaMa- statue ofSt.Bartholomew The by anotherseriesofearthquakes. totheStates,regionwashit turned Go ﬁgure.”AfterDougandDebbiere- noproblem. says Doug.“Afterward, loud buzzingsoundbeforethequake,” The authoroutsideSanFortunatoinTodi Recovered Memory: New York NewYork Recovered Memory: (DaylightBooks). Ambassador

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4 0 90_aaieid 38 59507_Magazine.indd 8Ambassador 38 WWW.NIAF.ORG Ambassador IN THE Right: Aspeeddetectoronaruralarterial enteringAltopascioinTuscany. street intheoppositedirection. bar, sonotonlydoesitindicatealimitedtrafﬁczone,it’s alsoaone-way Above: ThisMontecatiniAltoZTLsignis combinedwiththedo-not-enter E ZONE

By PaulSpadoni ´%HZDUHRIWUDIÀFFDPHUDVµ aren’t similarwarningswhenrentingacarthere: vending machinessellingtrainticketsinItaly. Toobadthere a recordedvoicewithanItalianaccentontheautomated “Beware ofpickpockets” 7ULFN\7UDIÀF5HVWULFWLRQV Steering AroundItaly’sZTL cautions

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59507_Magazine.indd 39 Paul Spadoni itato into ZTLareas. issued todriverswhounwittinglysteer but ratherthehugenumberoffines from touristsandforeigndrivers, that generatethemostcomplaints 1,800.” Butit’s notspeeddetectors by Francewith3,324andSpain followed detectors onmotorways, than 7,043fixedandmobilespeed “Italyhasmore service: information as Europe’s leadingreal-timetraffic ing toCoyote,whichdescribesitself traffic machinesinEurope,accord- Varco nonattivo or “passage”)isactive,theZTLactive sodon’tgothere. foreigners won’tunderstand.Ifthesign saysthe Electronic signsinRomeconfusewith anextrawordmany , orlimitedtrafficzone.Itrefers ZTL standsfor Italy hasfarandawaythemost means youcango. zona trafficolim-

Paul Spadoni varco (“way” what theymean,passthetrafficcam- and, unawareoftheZTLsignsor worse, manytouristslosetheirway $100—but sometimesexceeding$200. by municipality, averagingaround drivers issuedfinesbymailthatvary photographed byfixedcameras,their allowed inZTLs,butothercarsare are cial vehicleswithspecialpermits town centers.Residentsandcommer- ambiance ofItaly’s historicalcityand noise pollution,vastlyimprovingthe Limiting trafficalsoreducesairand benefit ofpedestriansandbicyclists. to streetsthatarerestrictedforthe

What canmakematterseven Tuscan village of Montalcino Street andZTLsigninmedieval Kristi Blokhin /Shutterstock.com

traffic isprohibited,andacurrent-time clock. unfamiliar touristsmightmissit,butit showswhenunauthorized A ZTLsigninMontecatiniAlto.Thissignpost istallenoughthat Paul Spadoni for strangeinfractionsthatIdon’t municipalities…asking forpayments tickets inthemailfromdifferent 2017,Ireceivedawhoppingseven ary Verona andPisainJuly2016.InJanu- “IspentaweekinBologna, forum: this complaintonaTripAdvisor co, receivedmultiplefinesandposted summer of2007. $1,000 duringatwo-weektripinthe received 11ticketstotalingmorethan traveler BrianH.Appleton,who This happenedtoauthorandworld the zone—resultinginmultiplefines. eras numeroustimesbeforeexiting Another driver, fromSanFrancis- speed detectorisahead on theA11Autostrada Ambassador Warning thata near Lucca.

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P M even understand. The total amount require that payment be made using Florentine, Florence’s English-lan- is over $1,000, if you add the interna- an International Bank Account Num- guage newspaper, reported in 2009 tional wire transfer fees….” ber (IBAN) transfer. This is a common that its traffic police “issue approxi- Asking TripAdvisor users if the and nearly costless method of electron- mately 1,253 tickets a day. The fines system seemed fair, he added: “To ic payment in Europe, but banks in the on these tickets bring about 52 mil- me this seems a total scam. I have United States do not routinely use this lion euro to city hall each year.” requested proof from the website they system and may charge between $40 to Driving inside any medium or large provided on the notices and received $50 for an IBAN transfer. Small cities city in Italy includes a risk of inadver- no answer. All they responded is PAY. often contract to have the notification tently entering a ZTL. Savvy travelers Also, they don’t accept credit cards, letters sent by European Municipality often book their accommodations in only wire transfers…. What would Outsourcing, which translates them smaller towns and then take a taxi, train happen if I don’t pay?” into the language of the driver and or bus into the busy larger cities. He received 48 answers that offers the convenience of paying Some ZTL regulations are active ranged from sympathetic to sarcastic. online by credit card. Oh, and, the at all times,” Gatto explains, “and For the most part, people told him police have 360 days from the date others only restrict traffic during that the system is fair, that it preserves they receive a driver’s data to issue a certain hours….” Hours of enforce- the cleanliness and tranquility of the fine. Domenico Gatto, chief of police ment are posted next to most signs,

ancient cities he visited, and that ig- in Montecatini Terme, a small Tuscan as are phone numbers if drivers have Popova / Shutterstock.com Tatiana norance of the law is a poor excuse. town between Florence and Lucca, questions or need access for business “If you wish to dispute the says the best strategy is to study the purposes. ZTL rules don’t apply to charges you can,” one respondent rules before arriving in Italy. “It’s very handicapped drivers, but they must wrote. “You will need to go back to important for foreigners to learn what call or e-mail the local municipality to Italy to each municipality and explain the road signs mean in Italy, which are be put on a special list of exceptions. why you broke the law but shouldn’t the same in all of Europe,” Gatto says. Hotels within ZTL zones work pay for it. Pay the fines or they will “This is not only to avoid fines but also with the police so that their clients engage a collection agency and it will for the sake of safety—to understand don’t incur fines, adds Gatto. When ruin your credit score.” when one is approaching a dangerous guests check in, the hotel calls the Many fined travelers question why intersection, a steep hill, a curve or a police so the guest’s license number they are charged twice for each viola- stop sign, for example.” can be added to the list of vehicles tion, and why the ticket arrives months Gatto says his department issues authorized to enter the zone during after the infraction. The answer is 30,000 sanctions annually for a town their hotel stay. that the police must first contact the with a population of 24,000. This high The Ministero dei Trasporti lists rental car agency to obtain the driver’s number is largely because Montecati- all ZTLs and regulations online, information; and, for this service, the ni Terme, billed as Italy’s largest spa although its website is difficult for agency charges the driver’s credit card town, attracts 2 million visitors per foreigners to navigate. An easier solu- an administrative fee ranging from year and has about 200 hotels. A high tion, Gatto says, is to use a modern $30 to $50 per incident. This is often percentage of its traffic violations are navigation aid such as global position- the first indication that a ticket will be committed by non-residents unfamil- ing systems, or GPS. In April 2018, for mailed, sometimes nearly a year later. iar with local ZTLs. instance, Waze launched a new fea- Some municipalities write the Larger cities generate even more ture called “ZTL Pass” to help drivers infraction letter in Italian and revenue from traffic tickets. The avoid fines in Italy’s ZTL zones. “Many GPS devices are updat- ed to include where the ZTLs are located, and they can alert you that you’re about to enter a restricted area,” Gatto says. “I’ve seen this work with my own personal GPS and can recommend it for all drivers.” Kristi Blokhin /Shutterstock.com Tour guide Elena Benvenuti, of Discover Lucca with Elena, points out that another unexpected expense can result from citations for illegal Paul Spadoni parking. “It’s important to know that Speed camera warning in Tuscany parking spaces with blue lines on

the pavement require payment,” she WWW.NIAF.ORG ZTL restriction sign in Rome’s says. “You’ll need to look for a nearby Rioni Monti meter box, make a payment, receive a neighborhood permit and put it on your dashboard.

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4 3 Tatiana Popova / Shutterstock.com 59507_Magazine.indd 41 Zona tafficolimitato incentives forpromptnessand pen- will sendoutseveralnotices, offering ers isnotaseasy. Themunicipality fines onAmericansandother foreign- European residents,enforcing the procedures areinplacetocollectfrom don’t paymytrafficticketinItaly?” is“WhatwillhappenifI travel forums questions onsearchenginesand station.” a tobaccoshoporservice car withone,youcanpurchaseoneat rental carcompanydidn’t equipyour show whattimeyouparked.Ifyour set yourparkingdisk— white area.You mightberequiredto number ofhoursyoucanparkina says. “Therecouldbealimitonthe but lookatthetimelimits,Benvenuti free intheeveningsoronSundays.” because parkinginblueareamaybe look atthehoursonmeterbox, boxes nowallowcreditcards….Also, You mayneedcoins,butmanymeter Paul Spadoni Gatto acknowledges that while Gatto acknowledgesthatwhile One ofthemostfrequentlyasked White linesmeanparkingisfree, sign inSanMarino disco orario in MontecatiniTerme. Domenico Gattoinhisoffice Comandante (ChiefofPolice) —to time and was told the agency would time andwastoldtheagency would mail. Evenafterhiswifeanswered one answer. Occasionally, theyleftavoice- andevening.He usually didn’t ternoon throughtheaf- days 15minutesapart sometimes multipletimesaday, some But acollectionagencybegancalling, thought theincidentwasbehindhim. cations fromItalyformanymonths,he he hadn’t receivedanymorecommuni- When them andtheywerereturned. from thepolice,herefusedtosignfor tickets forthesameviolation.” who can’t readthesignsorgivethree “it’s notfairtogiveticketsdrivers He didn’t paythefines,reasoningthat exit. thecorrect todetermine trying in Milanashecircledaround-about Wash., receivedfourZTLtickets;three threats oflegalaction. pursues paymentwithphonecallsand a collectionagencywhichaggressively isn’t made,thedebtisusuallysoldto alties forlatepayments.Ifpayment When he received registered letters When hereceivedregisteredletters Mark StonestreetofGigHarbor, Daniela Bochicchioadviseaforeigner in arentalcarwho’s uncertainabout this ZTL.Sinceitwas Police officersMarioCotugnoand driver wasallowedtoproceed. nonattiva laws, andrespectthem. the Gatto’s advice:Planahead,learn cure.” MightbebesttotakeChief means “Preventionisbetterthan “ back toItaly.” next bigtestwillbewhenwehead orcreditcollectors.The the courts haven’t heardfromanyonesince… letter, thecallsstopped,”hesays.“We Stonestreet stillrefusedtopay. to appearbeforeafederalmagistrate, take legalactionandforceherhusband red light….andaZTLviolation. a Italy—for speeding,parking,running His hasreceivedfourtraffictickets in hiswebsite:www.paulspadoni.com.Visit withoutPermission.” Living laDolceVita a book“AnAmericanFamilyinItaly: Abroad inTuscany” andhaspublished He writesablogcalled“Living(with) Gig Harbor, Wash., andMontecarlo,Italy. wholivesin Paul Spadoniisajournalist È meglioprevenirechecurare There’s anoldItalianproverb, “Five yearstothedayoffirst

, the

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4 4 59507_Magazine.indd 42 2Ambassador 42 WWW.NIAF.ORG THE 2019 EUROPEANCAPITAL OFCULTURE INBASILICATA Story andPhotos by Karen Haid below theﬂoordatesfrom12th-13th century. rupestrian churchinMatera;itsﬁrstrock structure Chiesa rupestrediSanPietroBarisano isthelargest

Transforming Matera P vated byMatera’s uniquelandscape Christ and MelGibson’s Gospel AccordingtoSt.Matthew Pasolini’s the setforsuchﬁlmsasPierPaolo scape. Theyweremadefamousas outoftherockyland- hoods carved its Sassi,ancient“stone”neighbor- Puglia, isknowntheworldoverfor between Calabria,Campaniaand regionofBasilicata,wedged southern Capital ofCulturefor2019. other sidetobenamedtheEuropean vive itsdifﬁcultpastandcomeoutthe characteristics thathelpedMaterasur- This fascinatingcityinItaly’s (2003).Directorsarecapti- resilience arejustafewofthe strength andacollective ersonal integrity, cultural Il vangelosecondoMatteo The Passionofthe

, 1964) ( The not asimpletaleofneighborhood Union foritsculturalvalue. Site, andhonoredbytheEuropean ignated asaUNESCOWorld Heritage touristdestination,des- international “national disgrace”tobecomingan years, Materahasgonefrombeinga nazionale. Sassi immediatelybecamea ad Eboli area inhismemoir condemnation ofthepoverty-stricken tional stagewithCarloLevi’s scathing when Materaleapedtotheinterna- was farfromfavorablebackin1945 cal interest.However, thespotlight primitive beautyandanthropologi- and seekoutthecittàdeisassiforits The transformation ofMaterais The transformation But amazingly, in justover70 ( Christ StoppedatEboli

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4 5 59507_Magazine.indd 43 south oftheoldtownMatera Sasso Caveoso,thecave-dwellingsarea Matera andtheGravinadi (cave houses) case grotte Matera’s One of

abandoned. and storagefacilities,orhadbeen stalls, ers wereusedaslivingquarters, Oth- of worshipintothe20thcentury. uncovered, stillfunctionedasplaces rupestri grotto churches.Severalofthese tion, theycreatedbeautifullyfrescoed spiritual lifeandthearea’s urbaniza- the East.Contributingtoboth from monastic communitiesarrived exterior construction. vated fromthecaveswereutilizedfor the Sassisittoday. Theblocksexca- sprouted ontheoppositebank,where referred toas referred porous limestone,oftengenerically dwellings weredugoutofthegorge’s thedevelopmentofmetaltools, With yon alongwhichthecityissituated. of theGravinadiMatera,can- cliff been discoveredontheeastern of entrenchedNeolithicvillageshave back tothePaleolithicEra.Remains adaptation, innovationandtradition. isoneof Sassi district.Matera’s story 2,000-year threadoflifeinthehistoric people, theircultureandamorethan Rather, thecreditbelongsto hipsters openingtrendyrestaurants. rehabilitation. Itssuccessisn’t dueto The ChiesadellaMadonnadeIdriswascarvedintothefaceofrock. The Sassidistrictssitontheedge In theearlymedievalperiod, Inhabitation oftheareadates , ofwhichover150havebeen tufa , andacommunity chiese tionary foritstime. tionary precious naturalresource,wasrevolu- ofthis with itspioneeringconservancy historic systemofwatercollection, andecosystem.”Thecity’s its terrain adaptedto ranean region,perfectly troglodyte settlementintheMediter- most outstanding,intactexampleofa honored byUNESCOin1993as“the and ParkofRupestrianchurcheswere Infact,Matera’sextraordinary. Sassi Romanesque totheBaroque. European architecturespanningfrom are oftensurprisedbytheresplendent church dedicatedtoMariadeIdris borhood crownedbyitsevocativerock starkness oftheSassoCaveosoneigh- who onlyexpecttoseetheBiblical the CivitaandPianodistricts.Visitors in many exquisiteediﬁcesconstructed skyline. TheDuomodiMateraisoneof whose towerstilldominatesthecity cathedral a magniﬁcent13th-century vides theBarisanoandCaveosoSassi. on thisstripofhighergroundthatdi- the moreconventionalarchitecture its archedgatewaysstillvisibleamong byaprotectivewall, once surrounded institutional settlement.TheCivitawas known as“theCivita,”thecity’s oldest viewed fromMatera’s upperlevel, of aravineandappearasvalleywhen The Sassi,themselves,arenoless This centrallocationisthesiteof

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4 6 59507_Magazine.indd 44 4Ambassador 44 WWW.NIAF.ORG Lungo, was built in the 19th century Lungo, wasbuiltinthe19thcentury thePalombaro system’s cistern, largest courses fordrainageandsewage.The spring, aswellchanneledwater- and funneledwaterfromanearby reservoir. Theycollectedrainwater otherssharedaneighborhoodcistern; homes intheSassihadtheirown beneath theentirecommunity. Many thatbranchedliketreeroots cisterns sophisticated networkoftunnelsand theMateranialsoduga quarters, celebrated onJuly2everyyear. Nottobe Madonna dellaBruna,whose festival is It ishometoMatera’s patronsaint,the a focalpointbothvisuallyand spiritually. with thestatelyRomanesquecathedral, • ChurchesintheCivitaandPiano: back 1,000years. admire thefrescos,someofwhichdate chiese rupestre carved outoftherock,andstepinto inhabitants livedinatypicaldwelling a the mazeofstreetsandstaircases.Visit wander onyourownandloseyourselfin • TheSassi: WHAT TOVISITIN casa grotta In additiontoexcavatingliving Take aguidedtour, then (cavehouse)toseehowthe (Rupestrianchurches)to Matera Start the population increased, more people the populationincreased,morepeople onward.As cline fromthe17thcentury excavated rockontheﬂoorsabove. fashionedfromthe idential quarters asawarehouseandres- el caveserving houses weredesignedwithalower-lev- andovens.Numerous shared cisterns Homes facedontosmallsquareswith Sassi fosteredsocialinteraction. Baroque sectionoftheoldtown. and suppliedwaterforthePiano, spaces dedicatedtosculpture. recognized worldwideforitscaveexhibition The MUSMAMuseumofContemporarySculpture, of strugglesandsuccessesthrough • CasaNoha: Carlo Levi’s largemural um inPalazzoLanfranchi,which features with medievalandmodernartatthemuse- Museum DomenicoRidola.Thencontinue Roman timesintheNationalArcheological lithic andNeolithicperiodstoGreek through artifactsthatrangefromthePaleo- • HistoryandArt: and skeletons. Purgatorio thatadmonisheswithskulls original citywalls,andtheChurchof Battista, theﬁrsttobebuiltoutside missed aretheChurchofSanGiovanni But livingconditionsbegantode- The architecturallayoutofthe

Encounter Matera’s story Trace thecity’s history Lucania 1961 . half thepopulationofMatera. residents, morethan15,000people, mandating theevacuationofSassi to thehumanitariancrisiswithalaw sanitation; in1952,theyresponded longer ignorethecity’s abominable national average.Politicianscouldno rate wasfourtimeshigherthanthe breaking point.Theinfantmortality quinine,” thecrisishadpassedits insistence,for but “withsorrowful begging inthestreets,notforcandy, andspokeofchildren Inferno,” to “aschoolboy’s ideaofDante’s activist CarloLevicomparedtheSassi storage cavesandevencisterns. in grottochurches,animalshelters, were compelledtotakeupresidence couldn’t accommodatethem.Many were forcedtoliveinaspacethat By thetimewriterandsocial and learnaboutthecity’s systemof Lungo, toseeMatera’s largestcistern from PiazzaVittorio Veneto toPalombaro • Water Conservation: space carvedoutoftherock. and aconventwithmodernexhibitionsin Madonna delleVirtù, undergroundchurches experience theRupestrianComplexof Museum ofContemporarySculpture.And of internationalreputeattheMUSMA Sassi cavesﬁlledwithworksbysculptors dichotomy ofcontemporaryartinthe • ModernArt: historic residence. a multimediapresentationinsidean The CathedralofMaterawasbuiltin1270

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4 7 59507_Magazine.indd 45 style depictingscenesfromGenesis. site, 8th-9th-centuryfrescosin Byzantine Chapel ofRupestrianart,tosee theexqui- Originale, oftenreferredtoastheSistine ters outsideoftowntoLaCriptadelPeccato • CryptoftheOriginalSin: at dusk. point, bydayand,particularly, atmospheric Soak uptheviewofMaterafromthisvantage tlements andnumerousrupestrianchurches. cheological parkwithremainsofancientset- take ahikeorguidedwalkthroughthisar- di Materatotheothersideofcanyon, • MurgiaMateranoPark: water collection. houses) havebeenrenovated squares. Several played outinthedistrict’s small and thecamaraderieofvillagelife totheoldneighborhoodsreturn districts. and breathenewlifeintothestone passed toallowpeoplemoveback reevaluated and,in1986,alawwas national shame.TheSassiwere wasanythingbuta surroundings withitsnatural created inharmony that thespontaneousarchitecture hard toshowthemselvesandtheworld Materaniworked and determined destined tobemorethanabackdrop, Matera’s uniquebeauty. TheSassiwere Almost 50filmshavecapitalizedon and theresidents’collectivememories. Sassi werekeptalivebyfilmmakers two decades.Duringthattime,the few chickens. enough topossessadonkeyand their animals,iftheywerelucky cave dwellingsthattheysharedwith inthehumid,overcrowded suffered familieswho were welcomedbylarge the elderly, thenewaccommodations for must havebeendisconcerting neighborhoods. Whilethemove people movedoutoftheSassi werebuiltand quarters modern Some Materanilongedto The evacuationtookplaceover Over thefollowingyears,new, Traverse theGravina case grotte Travel 14kilome- (cave human achievement.Visitors come and amanifestationof to survival resulted inseveralevocative museums. Repurposed Sassirealestatehasalso the museumsofPianodistrict. in andclassicEuropeanart artifacts Materana Parktothearea’s ancient rupestri paintings inthemedieval range fromthesplendidfresco cave accommodations. luxury Ironically, manylodgingsboast of sleepingandeatingintheSassi. theexperience and restaurantsoffer Hotels, bedandbreakfasts,bars, and functionasculturalmuseums. Matera isbothatestament Historical andculturalofferings of the Sassi and its Murgia oftheSassianditsMurgia chiese scene every dayoftheyear.scene every the Sassisparklelikealife-sizenativity as theyhaveformillennia.Atnight, white walls,andvoicesfillthetown By day, thebright thesunbouncesoff wander throughthemazeofstreets. and soakuptheatmosphere.They about traditional food,andtolearn toenjoy the architectureandart, from allovertheworldtoadmire at www.calabriatheotheritaly.com. Calabria on herblogor conversation Basilicata. Jointhevirtual workingonabookabout and iscurrently author of Karen Haid is the award-winning Karen Haidistheaward-winning Cultural Tour! information More Calabria: travel withhertoItalyon The OtherItaly Ambassador Sassisteps

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4 8 90_aaieid 46 59507_Magazine.indd 6Ambassador 46 WWW.NIAF.ORG. O R G Nardone porcelainplates. 19th-century Neapolitan man arehand-paintedon oriental ladyandEnglish- A Turk, Scotsman, sheik, THE LOSTWORLDOFSICILIANNOBILITYDISPLAYED Palazzo MirtoinPalermo Photos courtesy of the Mirto MuseumArchive oftheMirto Photos courtesy By TheresaMaggio E took abreathandwalkedin. with thedoublepeep-holemask, boughtaticket, again. So,onedayIpassedthrough theopengate tauntedmetotry blocks awayandPalazzoMirto years later, I'dbeenliving formonthsjustthree ofappreciation.Nownearly30 age anddeserving wasaniconof days, hesaid,andPalazzoMirto of Sicilianculture,tut-tutted.Thosewerebygone taught meItalianandthefeudalunderpinnings mebutProfessoreLoMonaco, who offended me mad.Thatwalkthroughtaintedexcess which translatesas“boor,” “lout”and“peasant.” 1699 hadtheirprofessionregisteredas lived incavesandallmymaleancestorsbackto di Belice,myancestraltown,wheresomepeople family, hadapalaceandlandinSantaMargherita ancestors. bought onthebacksofmyfarmer 1986 andleftapoplecticatitsaristocraticexcesses Even the wallpaper in Palazzo Mirto made made Even thewallpaperinPalazzoMirto The Filangeri-Cutòs, a branch of the same The Filangeri-Cutòs,abranchofthesame very time very

historic Filangeri Mansion in historic FilangeriMansionin back. IhadfirstvisitedPalermo's onmy sumptuous PalazzoMirto Marina, Ifelttheeyesof Piazza off supermarket Carrefour I enteredthebland,cement villano , everything be left as it was when they lived there, beleftasitwaswhenthey livedthere, everything her latebrotherStefano'swill, onconditionthat inaccordancewith Sicilian regionalgovernment, gave the Lanza FilangeridiMirto, with nopower. Thisright wasoftenpurchased. power overtheirsubjects,mypeople,thelouts andjudicial administrative, fiscal,military acquired therighttoexercisepolitical, to themuseum'swebsite.In1600s,they class andunderscoretheirpower, according The Filangerisusedthishousetoflaunttheir Messina, fromwhichthepalacetakesitsname. afeudalestatenear the firstPrinceofMirto, Giuseppe DeFilangerisySpuches,became owner, Francesca deSpuches,andmovedin. itswealthy Filangeri, countofSanMarco,married lived inthispalacesince1594,whenPietro conquerorstoSicilyin1072andhave Norman look.TheFilangerisfollowedthe 19th-century severalremodelsandtodayhasa undergone has Built inthe13thcentury, thestructure museums, standsjustsouthofPiazzaMarina. In 1982,thelastheir, Lady MariaConcetta In 1642,oneoftheirdescendants, oneofItaly'sfinesthouse Palazzo Mirto, placed over the throne. Inset: The placed overthethrone.Inset:The The Salone delBaldacchino , so named for a canopy , sonamedforacanopy formal diningroom. palazzo to the tothe /51 10:53 AM 6/15/19 6 / 1

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4 9 90_aaieid 47 59507_Magazine.indd was a clock with snakes for hands. Above me a was aclockwithsnakesforhands. Abovemea stage andsixchairsforanaudience. Onamantel robes; anEnglishmanwitha ridingcrop. a Scotinkilt;Turk inaturban;anArabwhite dressed intheircountries'traditionalgarb: gentry porcelain dinnerplatespaintedwithupper-crust the giantcloakclasps,behindglasspanes56 ofancestors,inacabinet on thewallsportraits lady's palehand. ina owned it.Istared,imaginingitheldartfully ofSavoy,crown ofQueenMargherita whoonce shell ribswithdiamondsontheguardstudding One wascream-coloredlaceonblondetortoise- experience. Fanswerealsofashionaccessories. atapointandspreadswith of lifewhichstarts cabinet offoldingfans,onceseenasasymbol of uselessbeauties.Firstthingyouseeisaglass house. TheFilangerisweredrivencollectors 17th tothe19thcenturies. noble'sresidence,itsdécorspansthe Palermitan exampleofa the grandeuroftheirline.Aperfect and thatitbeopentothepublic—atestament so namedforthebattlescenepaintedononewall. The Tapestry Room.Inset: I entered a tiny children's theater – a raised I enteredatinychildren'stheater –araised boxes, On otherglassshelvesweresilversnuff Velvet ropesguideyouthroughtheluxurious Salotto Rosa or Della Battaglia , stepped fountainmadethewater sing. a but waswovenoflocalsilk.In thecourtyard, thatseemed painted giant embroideredtapestry Cordoba leather. Inthe fumoir, asmokingroomwhosewallswerecladin shell.The showcase madeoftranslucenttortoise center ofeach.TherewastheYellow Roomwithits withafrillyMuranochandelieratthe doorways extension ofroomsseenthroughalineopen Filangeri coinsandjewels. shell,strongboxesfor made ofebonyandtortoise black-lacquered cabinetsholdinglockabledrawers fad inthe1700s.Inhallwaysstoodseveraltall, gardens, pavilionsandpagodas.Chinoiseriewasa padded silk-coveredwallspaintedwithChinese gold andblack-lacqueredtableschairs through themwithapeasant'seye. withabaroquefountain.Iwalked courtyard Rooms followoneafteranotherarounda entertaining. for ofﬁcialceremoniesandformal the Filangericrest.Thegroundﬂoorwasused bearing Murano chandelierwithglasscherubs In 1986,the I cametoahalloflights,delightful Here wasachinoiseriesittingroomwithred, piano nobile Salotto degliArrezzi was closedbut

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P M RocailleR fountain in interior courtyard; the stables below the living quarters; the library in the family's third-ﬂoor living quarters.

nownow wwas open. On this upper floor, the family Sigrid Unset, Cervantes, Milton. In the next room, lived and eentertained close friends. Here was a an ornate portable altar. I asked an attendant, why ChristmasChristmas card from Prince Umberto, who would portable? “So that a baptism, say, could take place bebe ItaItaly'sly's lalast king. Two beeswax candles had in a prettier room,” she said. The lacylacy fan with a meltedmelted in some summer's heat but were left as Then another room containing more snuff diamond-studdded royal theythey werewere,, a solid puddle. One dining room wall boxes and teacups, watches and clock faces. crown on its guard, and was lined with lighted shelves holding porcelain The last leg of the self-guided tour took me snuff boxes from the dinner plates, part of a 400-piece collection down a few flights to exit through the stables. I Filangeri collection. painted with all the birds known in 18th-century counted 18 straight stalls. Each horse had its own Europe,E one bird per plate. On the floor, wrought-iron hay basket, sculpted stone watering majolicam tiles from Caltagirone. trough, carved wooden horse head over its stall In one library, all the books were bound in and its name in a frame. There was Ion, Perrot... redre leather and their titles embossed in gold: The the rest have flaked off. DDictionary of Physics and Chemistry, The Annals of I walked out; rain had sheened the courtyard BBridges, The History of Poland. Many books were in stones. That they had cared so for their horses French,Fr which Sicilian aristocrats spoke among warmed me some. The years had mellowed me, themselves.th Overhead, a giant Murano chandelier but hadn't changed my mind. I turned left out blossomed with glass peonies in white, powder the gate and walked home through the Kalsa pink and green. wondering how many bushels of grain or grapes it In the weapons room, two sturdy chairs with takes to buy one diamond-studded fan. ashtraysas built into in the arms for the men, beside NIAF.ORG twotw squat chairs for the wet nurses who nourished Theresa Maggio is the author of two books about theth noble spawn. A closet just for hats. In yet Sicilian culture: Mattanza and The Stone Boudoir. anotheran library, I found titles in English, French, Her third, about Palermo, is now seeking representation. WWW.NIAF.ORG ItalianIt and Russian. Zane Grey, Martha Mitchell, Website: www.theresamaggio.com

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gw.pdf 50 6/18/19 12:42 PM Savvy Traveling By Frank Van Riper TIPS FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP TO ITALY AND ELSEWHERE

Few things are as exhilarating—or intim- also can present a mineﬁeld of social and Having spent more than a decade lead- idating—as foreign travel, especially for even legal pitfalls. ing photo workshops in Italy, and drawing the ﬁrst time traveler. What can make on the experience of globe-trotting col- touring Italy, or elsewhere abroad, so in- And don’t forget the hassles of air travel. leagues and friends, here is a list of travel teresting—exposure to an ancient, differ- Simply getting there on time these days tips, hacks and time-saving suggestions ent culture and customs, for example— (with your luggage) can be an adventure. for the next time you leave home:

• Take direct flights if possible, or leave at least more than an hour between connections. Cheaper though a flight may be with one or two stops, each stop increases your chance of missing a connection. I Riper Van Frank learned the hard way to factor in three hoursrs Get your photographic gear ready before leaving. between connecting flights, letting me laughgh at most flight delays and weather hassles.

• Best airfares? Go online, or use a pro. by setting up a Google flight alert to watch D.C. photographer Erica Wissolik advises: the price of my flight. You can see how prices “When I'm buying a plane ticket, I'll start out fluctuate and which days are usually low and whiwhichch aarere high. I ccana be flexible so I always Avoid the airline squeeze for long ppick the days when flights flights. are cheaper or likely to be lless crowded.” Or, you can do what I do. LetL a professional travel

Aleksandr Shilov / Shutterstock agenta search for you. Over theth years, I have avoided hoursho of eyestrain and agita staringsta at travel websites by lettinglet my agent book for me. TravelTra agents get paid by the hotels,hot airlines, etc., so their costcos to you, if anything, is minimalmin and well worth it. WWW.NIAF.ORG

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gw.pdf 51 6/18/19 12:42 PM • Yes, your seat is smaller. Airlines have downsized seats and shoe- hohorned them together making ﬂying a punishment. Options? You can sesee what you’re in for by going to sites like seatguru.com: wwwww.seatguru.com/charts/generalcharts.php. Or, pony up in advance fofor upgrades like Economy-Plus or Premium-Plus. I have found Econ- For frequent international ﬂiers, omomy-Plus on United, for instance, to be a comparative bargain for its Global Entry is a must. wwider seat and increased legroom. It’s not Biz Class by a long shot,

Arne Beruldsen / Shutterstock bubut a huge improvement.vement.

• Get Global Entry.Entry Arguably the bestbest-kept secret Validate your of international travel, this TSA-run program train tickets allows “low-risk” travelers to whiz through security lines on departure and breeze through customs on return. It includes TSA Pre-check

(shorter departure lines; no need to remove shoes) and lets you avoid interminable lines as Shutterstock you wait to clear customs when returning to the

States. Cost is $100 for five years and requires frantic00 / frantic00 a background check and personal interview. The process can take months, so apply well before your departure date. Visit: www.cbp.gov/ • Tickets,Ti k t passes andd avoidingidi fines.fi InI ItItaly, l andd else-l travel/trusted-traveler-programs/global-entry. where, remember to validate your train ticket before boarding. It’s easy for Americans to forget this, and it can lead to fines or hassles. Validation machines Helps to know the chef: are ubiquitous at stations; all you need do is insert the author your paper ticket into one end for a validating time with Augusta stamp. Pardi at Another thing (of course, you’d never do this on Pardi Vineyard, purpose) is don’t try to beat the system by hopping Montefalco a turnstile. In Venice, you might board a water bus (vaporetto) without paying, figuring no one is checking as you glide down the Grand Canal. Guess again.

If you are nabbed by the dreaded vaporetto police, Frank Van Riper Van Frank you’ll face a stiff fine that they will collect immedi- • BanishBBanish jetjet lag.lag JJetet llagag ccanan ttakeake a ttolloll iiff yyouou ately—or escort you to an ATM to collect. Another have flown all night, then have to race for a tip: if you are in one place for several days, check connecting flight or a train to reach your final out weekly travel passes for big savings. destination. That’s a lousy way to start a dream vacation. I now leave for my annual Umbria Maybe get your 'salute' or 'cin' pronunciations right workshop a day early, so that when I land in before the moment arrives. Rome after an all-night flight, I hop a cab to Riper Van Frank a lovely airport hotel and take a long nap after an al fresco lunch of cacio e pepe and a glass or two of a good red. Next morning, after a leisurely breakfast, I take another cab to Roma Termini, and board any of several regional trains to Terni, the Umbrian hill town where we meet our driver for the week. WWW.NIAF.ORG

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gw.pdf 52 6/18/19 12:42 PM Try Airbnb for better deals

• Tipping: less is more. The easiest way to be seen as a boorish American is to tip too much in bars and restaurants. In Italy, 10 percent is way generous—in fact, a few extra Euros added to the bill is ﬁne, especially if a cover charge (coperto) or

service charge (servizio) already has been added. Riper

Kaspars Grinvalds / Shutterstock / Grinvalds Kaspars Tourists at lunch in Orvieto. How much • Hotel,Hotel aapartmentpartment oorr villavilla rental?rental? to tip? Airbnb has helped travelers be Van Frank more selective, but as my friend Monica Kovacs Nathan notes, it pays to read the fine print. “Good experience in Rome, only so-so in Amsterdam. “The key is to read reviews and try to get personal recommen- dations…. Important to assess the photos carefully (often the places • The coffee conundrum: Italians take their coffee seriously. look larger than they really are); After all, they more or less invented it, or at least refined it. read the description carefully (does Most Italians take their caffe standing at the bar and they down the bathroom have a window and it quickly. No need to tip. But if you choose to sit down, leave therefore ventilation?); and pay some spare coins for your server. close attention to description of how Now, about that cappuccino. Caffe latte and other coffees many people the place "sleeps"…a served with steamed milk are fine for breakfast, maybe even at place that sleeps four might only mid-day, but Italians never order these drinks during dinner. In have one bedroom for two and a fact, un caffe in Italy is a nice strong shot of espresso served sofa bed for two. Washers are not in a real cup and saucer with a tiny spoon for stirring in sugar. common in Italy, and I have never Variations: a doppio espresso is twice as much of a good thing, seen a dryer, so for stays where you and a caffe corretto is an espresso “corrected” with a little need to have laundry done, see if grappa or, say, anisette. Decaf is becoming more available; there is a lavanderia nearby?” simply say decaffeinato. The upside, as Erica Wisso- lik notes, is that bargains can be found: “Since discovering Airbnb, I think it’s the best way to get a really awesome place in the middle Frank Van Riper of a neighborhood you want to stay in. For example, hotels in Knights- bridge London can be $400-$500 a night. An Airbnb in a high-end apt in the same neighborhood may be $200-$300 a night. I also like sites like Tablet hotels (www.tablethotels. com) for finding hipper hotels at Midday cappuccino at a Civita di Bagnoregio café good prices.”

Regardless of how you get to your dream the simple pleasures of life lived generously and

destination, the important thing is to relax and to the full—and revels in sharing that pleasure WWW.NIAF.ORG enjoy yourself once you arrive. In Italy, this tends with its visitors. not to be a problem. It is a country that reveres Buon Viaggio!

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5 4 59507_Magazine.indd 52 2Ambassador 52 WWW.NIAF.ORG Story andPhotography byLauraThayer Story Cetara’s Fishermen pullingtheirboatashorewith

Torre diCetara inthebackground on theo nnth

th Preserving Centuries-Old Fishing Centuries-Old TraditionsPreserving P centered around fishing. about 2,100people,life has always treasured places.Here, inthistownof the littletownofCetara isoneofthose Along thewell-knownAmalfiCoast, traditions remain a partofdailylife. time passesataslowerpaceand faster, thankfullyplacesexistwhere thatseemstomoveever In aworld e i C t i O ld F i hi T di ti 6/15/19 10:53 AM 6 / 1

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While much of the Vietri sul Mare, the town with colorful boats as if they all shapes and sizes, rang- hubbub of the Amalfi famous for the Amalfi washed ashore in a haphaz- ing from the traditional Coast passes Cetara by, it’s Coast’s colorful ceramics. ard yet remarkably fetching wooden boats painted in nevertheless a town that in The mountains have always way. While the boats claim bright shades of red, blue, recent years has utilized its formed a natural barrier for space there year around, in yellow and green, to larger fishing traditions to firmly the seaside village, which the summer locals and trav- boats piled high with nets place it on the world map is protected on the eastern elers vie for their own space and fishing gear. of gourmet destinations. side by an imposing watch- on the tiny beach with its The connection to the All with the help of one of tower, called the Torre di romantic setting below the sea is strong in Cetara, dat- the most traditional local Cetara, rising above the watchtower. ing back to the earliest re- catches: anchovies. rocky coastline. Dating back Just beyond the beach cords of the town. Even its Holding on tightly to its to the 14th century, the is the busy little port of name seems to stem from ties to the sea in one of the watchtower now houses a Cetara, which is the heart Latin (cetaria) and Greek most picturesque settings museum dedicated to the of town. While strolling (ketèia) words having to do on the Amalfi Coast, Cetara town’s history and local art- along the port, what stands with fishing. Maintaining its is nestled into a deep valley ists. It also boasts a fine view out most are the fishing seaside traditions, the town with lush mountain slopes overlooking Cetara. boats. Pleasure boats are still has one of the most rising high above. It sits in It’s the beach that tucked away in the port, active tuna fishing fleets a relatively isolated area of captures the eye no matter but it is otherwise full of in the Mediterranean. the coastline just west of the viewpoint, strewn as it is fishing boats that come in At the far end of the

View of Cetara and its beach WWW.NIAF.ORG

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harbor,harbor, yoyouu mimightght spspotot the by pressingpressing fresh anchovies. mustmust be caughtcaught along the beach, in the town’s center, larger fishing boats used Generations of locals in Amalfi Coast from March the striking yellow and for catching tuna in the Cetara have passed down to July, and prepared green diamond patterned deep waters of the Medi- family secrets for transform- over the summer. Several dome of Cetara’s largest terranean. Yet, Cetara is ing the daily catch into this months later, the barrel is church pokes above the known above all for its alici, rich oil used to flavor tradi- punctured and the liquid jumble of houses. This is or anchovies, which are tional recipes in Cetara. is gathered. The intensely the Chiesa di San Pietro caught in the sea just off This prized oil is flavored fish oil is highly Apostolo (Church of St. the Amalfi Coast. thought to be connected sought after for cooking on Peter), dedicated to the These two specialties to garum, a fish sauce made the Amalfi Coast and is now town’s patron saint. Even are prepared by local in the ancient Roman town known around the world. here, Cetara’s ties to the sea producers who take the of Pompeii not far from It’s a must for foodies visit- are front and center. Set tuna and anchovies and the Amalfi Coast. It is a ing the Amalfi Coast. The into the simple Neoclassi- transform them into town’s labor-intensive process in menus in Cetara’s restau- cal façade, the entrance to biggest sellers. Both are which fresh anchovies are rants showcase anchovies, the church is through a set prepared in several ways, filleted and then layered tuna, and simple, delicious of modern bronze doors. but typically preserved in with salt in a wooden bar- pasta dishes that highlight Created in 2005 by Italian oil and packed into jars. rel, called a terzigno, and the oil’s rich flavor. sculptor Battista Marello, The most coveted local covered with a wooden disc A stroll through town the doors depict San Pietro tradition is the creation of that is pressed down with a reveals even more about and Sant’Andrea (St. An- the colatura di alici, a dark weight. To produce true co- Cetara’s embedded fishing drew) encircled by fishing amber-colored oil created latura di alici, the anchovies traditions. Not far from the nets and little fish. Look

Bronze door at Chiesa di San Pietro Apostolo depicting San Pietro and Sant’Andrea with ﬁshing nets and ﬁsh

Dome of Cetara’s Chiesa di San Pietro Apostolo rising above the town’s center WWW.NIAF.ORG

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5 7 59507_Magazine.indd 55 also theheightofsummer Pietro onJune29.Asit’s gather tocelebrateSan when thetown’s faithful palpable today, especially votion toSanPietroisstill St. Peter’s brother.) Thede- Sant’Andrea isdedicatedto in Amalfi,theCathedralof ples. (Downthecoastline behind tobecomedisci- before leavingtheirnets apostles, werefisherman Sant’Andrea, bothlater brothers SanPietroand to theirpatronsaint.The hold suchadeepbond it’s nosurprisethelocals standing fishingtradition, anchovies. closely andyoumightsee In atownwithlong- h etvlo a itoi eaaViewofCetaraanditsbeach The FestivalofSanPietroinCetara out atsea. rocking onthegentlewaves through thecrowds,like boat isbobbingtoandfro it seemasifSanPietro’s walk insuchawaytomake asthe men back andforth flowers. Thestatuelilts en boatdeckedoutwith the shapeofanoldwood- in onaplatform carried to thebeach.Thesaintis through townanddown byagroupofmen carried statue ofSanPietrothatis wooden cession isalarge gious processionpassby. crowding toseethereli- town overflowwithpeople streets andbalconiesofthe on theAmalfiCoast, The starofthepro- the sea. Likewise, every the sea.Likewise,every comesbackto everything colatura dialici of Cetara.Muchlikethe fectly capturesthespirit ebrating SanPietroper- another year. for town anditsfishermen where hewilllookoverthe taken backtothechurch beach beforeSanPietrois tion thattakesplaceonthe ing forthespecialdedica- fishing boats.They’rewait- and, ofcourse,manylarger fishing boats,touristferries is packedwithlittlewooden the beachwhereharbor procession takesplaceon tivating momentsofthe The processioncel- One ofthemostcap- tradition, history andfuture. history andbothits hood, itsheart, moment, Cetara’s liveli- treasure, evenifjustfora slows down,whereyoucan wherelife and theport, seems toleadthebeach town visit tothischarming www.ciaoamalfi.com. Coast lifestyleatherwebsite: oftheAmalfi2019. Enjoymore will bereleasedinAugust book Italy. guide- Herforthcoming award-winning magazineon as Italia!magazine,theU.K.’s issues ofAmbassadoraswell inprevious work hasappeared Amalfi Coastsince2007.Her photographer livingonthe Laura Thayerisawriterand Moon AmalfiCoast Ambassador

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5 9 Don Oldenburg 59507_Magazine.indd 57 Tasting the and which mattered and whichmattered We werediscussing “That’s thewaylife “That’s professional talent said withhisvoice prices and scores, prices andscores, trailing off, hardly is,” thebartender said ofthewines depends…” he concealing his at thetasting. for evasion. most. “Itall TOP

wants a splurge bottleortwo. wants asplurge there’s theromanticdreamerselfwho be openedonanygivennight, then cal selfwhowantsbottlesthat could the sameperson.There’s thepracti- severalmasters–sometimesin serve about wine.Still,hewasrightagain. to forego.”Ithinkwewerestilltalking ued, “somepleasuresaretooprecious sient pleasureslikewinedrinking. else. Sodoesprice,especiallyfortran- movies, dishwashers,andeverything Decisions aboutbuyingwinemust “But, then,”thebarkeepcontin- He’s right.Scoresmatterforwines, By DickRosano The tasting’s sixItalianwinesfromtheWineSpectator’s top25list for2018. Leading 2018ItalianWines Wine Spectator’s Shelf are theresultsoftasting: but includedonefromPiedmont. Here prominently featuredTuscan entries this list,sixofitsItalianwines that taste throughthebestof bestfrom the top25.We to hadtheopportunity and ﬁlled6ofthetop15spots9 Italian winescamein1st,3rd,and9th, of anyone’s winecollection.Infact, easily Italianwinescanﬁllthetopshelf list (forthewinesof2018)provedhow 2019 100 eachyearandtheJanuary Wine Spectator Wine publishesitsTop Ambassador 6/15/19 10:54 AM 57 WWW.NIAF.ORG 6 / 1

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6 0 59507_Magazine.indd 58 58 WWW.NIAF.ORG Score: 97 (importer: Kobrand) of tobacco smoke andoak. and raspberry withanelegantwhiff laced throughout; ﬂavors ofplum aromas; notes ofvioletandsoftspice with blackcurrant andblackcherry Ambassador Tasting Notes: among theclassics every year. liant, supple, velvety winesthatstand rival acoronation. The result was bril- enjoyed acoming outthat would icent wineand,in1968,Sassicaia stand theneed to agethismagnif- Later, consumers beganto under- among Italianwineconnoisseurs. too atypicalto command attention Sas however, From the1940sthrough the1960s, grape inFrench Bordeaux wines. Cabernet Sauvignon,theprincipal ined it—anItalianwinemadefrom rio IncisadellaRochetta ﬁrst imag- to the1920s, whentheMarchese Ma- The originsofthiswinecanbetraced ( 2015 Sassicaia ($245) Tenuta SanGuido VERTICAL BRUNELLO Wine Spectator 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Canalicchio di Sopra sicaia was considered Richandfocused, rank: #1)

Kobrand Kobrand

Don Oldenburg Kobrand Sassicaia wines. Tenuta SanGuido,producerofworld-famousTuscan region; NicolóIncisadellaRocchetta,directorof of theProduttoridelBarbarescoinItaly'sPiemonte village ofBarbaresco;AldoVacca,managingdirector Guido anddaughterofNicoló;Asilivineyardwithinthe Priscilla IncisadellaRochetta,co-ownerofTenuta San Clockwise fromleft:SassicaiavatsatSanGuido; back into someothervintages. had theopportunityto dive way Spectator 2013 thatwas reviewed by the di Montalcino. Inadditionto the of theCanalicchio di Sopra Brunello anxious to share multiplevintages of impressive wines, andhewas Imports hasanentire portfolio Dominic Nocerino at Vinifera Score: 95(importer: Opici) hints ofclove andcinnamon. soft tannins,velvety textures, and leather, ebullientfruitﬂavors with violets, red cherry, currant andwet balanced fruitandearthaccents. grapes, thiswineoffers exquisitely rounded outwithCanaioloandother from Sangiovese (70 percent) and Top 100 list at#11.Madeprimarily mentioned inthe Montepulciano Riserva that got is, itwas theVino Nobiledi as theChiantifrom thisproperty international attention. Asgood Chianti Classico thatwould reach their dream ofproducing the of Carpineto in1967 to fulfill Mario Zaccheo originallyconceived Giovanni CarloSacchet and Antonio ( Montepulciano Riserva ($30) 2013 Vino Nobiledi Carpineto Tasting Notes: Wine Spectator andinthesepages,we Richbouquetof rank: #11) Wine Spectator

Wine

Produttori del Barbaresco Score: 96 these winesshouldbeaged. a winethatis24 years old.Proof that Remarkably present and forward for and tarasaccents onthebackpalate. the wine, withahintoftobacco, toast, toast. Fruitflavors boast maturityof and redolent ofdriedcranberries and age, butthearomas are still forward Medium brickred color shows its (no market price available). 1995 BrunellodiMontalcino Canalicchio diSopra Score: 93 (importer: Vias Imports) elegant winewithalong,silky finish. bit ofsmoke onfinish.Asupremely followed by brightfruitflavors anda cherry, cranberry, flintandleather, remarkable andrewarding wine. ($42) for this tasting, anothertruly ed thenon-vineyard-specific bottling incredible track record, we substitut- down. Yet, knowing thecooperative’s supplies, makingitimpossible to track and storied reputation ledto arunon its popularityandtheestate’s long the vineyard-specific RabajaRiserva, Although Italian winefirmament. prominence ofBarbaresco inthe leaves nodoubtaboutthesingular ers whoseconsistently highquality cades. Itisacooperative ofproduc- wowing seriouswinedrinkers for de- Produttori delBarbaresco hasbeen ( Riserva ($66) 2013 Barbaresco Ra Produttori delBarbaresco Tasting Notes: Wine Spectator Produttori del Barbaresco Wine Spectator

First impression isof rank: #13) baja featured

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59507_Magazine.indd 59 Produttori del Barbaresco Score: 96(importer: Vinifera Imports) richly textured. tobacco, spice anddarkchocolate; palate. Well balanced, withhintsof cranberry andmineral onnoseand Tasting Notes: here are explored inthesidebar.) (Some ofthelegendarywinesfrom tion from seriouswineconsumers. the estate continue to attract atten- innovation to ensure that thewinesof that vision,blendingtradition and third generation ofthefamily follows more thanahalfcentury later, the the visionofPrimoPacenti. Now, at thisproperty was the1966vintage, The first bottleofBrunelloproduced ( 2013 BrunellodiMontalcino($79) Canalicchio diSopra Score: 96 fruit flavors onanelegantframe. through thebounteous darkred A firmthread ofaciditylaces accented by earthandsmoke. deep plumandcherryaromas Fragrant andforward, featuring Riserva 2012 BrunellodiMontalcino Canalicchio diSopra Wine Spectator ($140).

Winebow Notes ofcherry, rank: #15)

Score: 90 well-balanced andelegant. strawberry andcherry, wine offers agentle touch of of thebiggerBrunello, this A medium-bodiedversion 2017 Rosso diMontalcino($35) from thisestate isthe example ofthewines Another sterling Score: 94(importer: Winebow) earth, blackpepperandtobacco. plums andblackcurrant; accents of textures, fruitﬂavors reminiscent of including cherryandcurrant, soft Tasting Notes: of thewineleave littleargument. no andPugnitello. The fabulous results grapes infavor ofvarietals like Colori- like SanFelice whoforeswore foreign not forgotten, especially by estates indigenous grapes oftheregion were talented experimentation. Butthe of whatcanbeaccomplished with been andstill are historic examples Sassicaia —both reviewed here —have Marchese MarioIncisadellaRochetta’s ny. Piero Antinori’s Tignanello and the winesthey produced inTusca- blending non-indigenousvarieties into 1980s thatinnovative winerieswere There was atimeinthe1970s and ( 2016 ChiantiClassico ($17) San Felice Wine Spectator Barbaresco vineyards in theheartofChiantiClassico; Antinori; TheTenuta Tignanello estate, enologist andCEOatMarchesi vineyards; RenzoCotarella,chief Barbaresco; harvestatSanFelice from Asili,anhistoricvineyardin Clockwise fromupperleft:Detail Pure fruitscents, rank: #19)

. Antinori Antinori Ste. MichelleWine Estates) red fruitflavors. a hintofleather bringouttheintense lead pencilandherbs.Softspice and flavors highlighted by softnotes of currant andblackberryaromas and and body. First impression isofblack more international styles to follow. pavedvintage — theway for many result. The first Tignanello the1971 — could bemademore interesting asa to blendwithforeign grapes ifwines movement thatdemandedfreedom stuffy Italian labeling laws, a resistance forefront ofthedrive to abandonthe As noted above, Tignanello was inthe family’s other show-stopping classics. or, for thatmatter, anumberofthe didn’t includeAntinori’s Tignanello a list of the best Italianwinesthat It would benearlyimpossible to find ( 2015 Tignanello ($135) Antinori Tasting Notes: See hisnewnovel, andtraditionsofthepeople. the history theflavorsofcuisine,and the country, are setinItalyandcapturethebeautyof other nationalpublications.Hisnovels many yearsinTheWashington Postand Dick Rosano’scolumnshaveappearedfor Truffles, orTo Love Rome,With Love LostinPositano,Hunting Tuscany, TheSecretofAltamura,A recently publishedworks: Wine Spectator Immenseinstructure Score: 97 (importer: Vivaldi’s Girls rank: #24) A Deathin

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6 2 59507_Magazine.indd 60 0Ambassador 60 WWW.NIAF.ORG A CINEMA Photos courtesyofVivo ﬁlmandtheTribeca FilmFestival W Beauty Standards Flesh Out Director Michela Occhipinti’s Looks atWest African eighty

By MariaGarcia ɽǠơƃŔȥơŔʋȟŔȥˊʋǫȟơɽŔƎŔˊࡲ ĪơɭǫƎŔࢎĪơɭǫƎŔ%ơǫʋʋŔǠȟơƎ7ơǫƃǠơ࢏ŔˁŔȇơȥɽŔʋƎŔˁȥɽȶʋǠŔʋ ˁơƎƎǫȥǌࡲ Ǡơɭ ǉȶɭ čȥȍǫȇơȟŔȥˊȟơɭǫƃŔȥŹɭǫƎơɽˁǠȶƎǫơʋŹơǉȶɭơʋǠơƃơɭơȟȶȥˊ࡫ ɢɭơɢŔɭǫȥǌ ˁȶȟŔȥ ¡ŔʠɭǫʋŔȥǫŔȥ ˊȶʠȥǌ Ŕ Michela Occhipinti’s skillfully directed debutfeature isabout ǠơȟȥǠࢫ ǫơɽơ ɽ ˉơʋƎ ȶ Ŕȥ ࠄ ɢȶʠȥƎɽࡲ ࠃࠄ ǌŔǫȥ ʋȶ ơˉɢơƃʋơƎ ǫɽ ɽǠơ ʋǫȟơ࡫ ȟȶȥʋǠɽࢫ ʋǠɭơơ to thetraditional practice of ǠŔʽơƃǠȶɽơȥǉȶɭǠơɭɢɭơǉơɭɽȶŹơɽơˁȶȟơȥ࡫ɽȶĪơɭǫƎŔɽʠŹȟǫʋɽ film

Verida playedbyBeittaAhmedDeiche þǠơŹɭǫƎơǌɭȶȶȟǠơɭɢŔɭơȥʋɽ gavage (forced feeding). Beach scenefrom Flesh Out 6/15/19 10:54 AM

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6 3 59507_Magazine.indd 61 make a feature-length documentary. make afeature-lengthdocumentary. attractive andasignofwealth.” Mauritania, it’s corpulence—itisboth than thethinnesswecallbeauty, in isthatrather them. Thedifference tochangewhatnaturegave trying “Women areconstantly she observes. doistheexactlysamething,” erners found senseofirony. “WhatweWest- mind, wasquicklyfollowedbyapro- judgment, inthewriter-director’s that isoverseenbythebride’s mother. She wasatfirstrepulsedbythetradition beauty shop grandmother’s Scene atVerida’s about aging, Occhipinticameacrossastory said youhavetowear diets togetinto implants andthebotox,crazy ing atotherwomen,andnoticingthe look- no linesarebeautiful?Istarted I thought:whosayslinesareuglyand seeingthelinesasugly,I started and first, Ifeltitwasquitenatural.Then, is tri-lingual,andspeaksinEnglish.“At aging,” theItalianfilmmakersays.She lines onmyface,andIrealizedwas dor where Occhipintispokewith Tribeca FilmFestivalinNewYork City, . “A few years ago, I started seeing seeing . “Afewyearsago,Istarted Initially, Occhipintisetoutto The hypocrisyinherentinthat While pondering the ravages of While ponderingtheravagesof Flesh Out gavage in an Italian magazine. inanItalianmagazine. screened at the 2019 screened atthe2019 those pants, but who pants,butwho those pants?” pants?” Ambassa- four other films to her credit, including four otherfilmstohercredit,including screenplay withSimonaCoppini,has is consideredlessattractive. “black moors,”areslaves,Amal’s skin wherethedarker citizens,the country than Verida’s, andshebleachesit;ina Arabic. Amal’s skinisslightlydarker Hassaniya, aMauritaniandialectof moors,” ofBerberdescent;theyspeak and Amalaredistinguishedas“white society ofMauritania,bothVerida school. Inthecomplexandstratified for admissiontoaCairotechnical twice-divorced womanwhoisapplying and Bouh Oumar),isatwice-married closest companion,Amal(AmalSaab and dreamsofbeinganactress.Her She listenstomusic,likesfashion, ing, Verida teenager. isanordinary in an Althoughclad she workspart-time. her grandmother’s beautyshopwhere ing herfriendsinacafé,andvisiting realistic thanafictionalfilm.” orless mentary, itwouldbelesstrue cases whereifIhadmadeadocu- Itwasoneofthose one documentary? inti says.“HowcouldIgetallofitin stories,”Occhip- whom haddifferent Mauritanian girlsandwomen,allof “During myresearch,Imetmany Occhipinti, who co-wrote her Occhipinti, whoco-wroteher Flesh Out abaya , andaveiledheadcover- begins withVerida meet- way,” Occhipinti explains. wanted themtointeractinanatural “I neededarealfamilybecauseI star’s byanaunt. motherisportrayed the filmisheractualsibling,and Verida’sher firstmarriage. sisterin real lifesubmittedto amateurs, includingVerida, whoin ant tofilmthere.” home isamatriarchy. Itwasimport- there ispatriarchyinthesociety, the climate,” sheexplains,“butalsowhile ly livedindoorsbecauseofthedesert a presenceinthemovie.“Lifeismost- pher DariaD’Antonio.Thecityisnot that includedfemalecinematogra- inti shotonlocationwithasmallcrew capital ofMauritania,whereOcchip- in severalAfricancountriesasachild. grandmother wasFrench,andshelived inti hasrootsinTunisia andAlgiers;her ety butinanantitheticalway.” Occhip- about somethingthatIfindin explained thatIwantedtotellastory shesays.“I could filmthisnarrative,” ed toknowhowaEuropeanwoman Flesh Out years intheindustry, raisingmoneyfor (Eulogy toSlowness) with Coppini, a 2010feature-lengthdocumentary Occhipinti’s castiscomprisedof Flesh Out was difficult.“Funderswant- is setinNouakchott,the Letters From the Desert Letters FromtheDesert . Despite her many . Despitehermany gavage Ambassador before

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6 4 90_aaieid 62 59507_Magazine.indd 2Ambassador 62 WWW.NIAF.ORG CINEMA are obedient,andVerida alsoloves fast enough.“Inthatculture,kids first becausesheisnotgainingweight becomes disillusionedwith time productionbegan. riage, andhadbecomeamother, bythe her.” Verida wasonhersecondmar- says. “Ifeltanimmediateconnectionto pair ofeyesthatcouldtalktome,”she was serendipitous.“Ilookingfora Occhipinti’s firstmeetingwithVerida lems. Castingcallsareuncommon,and ture inMauritaniaposedotherprob- a Westernized filmmakinginfrastruc- and anIslamicrepublic,butthelackof woman workinginanAfricancountry, the challengesshewouldfaceasawhite hood gavehersomeappreciationfor Filmmaker MichelaOccipinti In thecourseofmovie,Verida The filmmaker’s unusualchild- D o youqualifyforItalianDualCitizenship? Bringthat vision tolifewithourresearchservices Do youeverimagineyourItalian Ancestors? countries. countries. Western case in most case inmost not bethe which would held camera, with ahand- doors, even filming out- required for are permits Call usat1-888-472-0171 togetstarted! gavage For moreinformation,visit www.myitalianfamily.com , at Apply throughustoda Their friendship is forbidden, but they Their friendshipisforbidden,butthey because Sidilikesherthewaysheis.” Occhipinti says.“Sheisalsoflattered to admireher. “Heseeshersuffering,” backtothegroom’sports family, grows who weighsVerida periodically, andre- Mohamed Chighaly),ayoungman female genitalmutilation.Sidi(Sidi force-feeding, arewidelysubjectto Mauritanian women,inadditionto illusion: asinotherIslamiccountries, of sexualfreedom,althoughthatisan amount brides. Thisimpliesacertain womenareprized previously married anddivorcemanytimes—and marry forthemto teenagers, itiscustomary as marriages subject toarranged to eattheirownvomit. andforced sees thembeingtortured conflicted abouttheritual;thereshe tentforgirlswhoareequally desert she resists.”Verida isbroughttoa if mother showsherthealternative the filmmakersays,“andthenher day. “Thatissuresignofrebellion,” mother awakenshertooearlyinthe daughter raiseshervoicewhen Occhipinti says. her motherandwantstopleaseher,” While Mauritanian women are While Mauritanianwomenare After afewweeks,thedutiful y page, MariaGarciaNYC. herFacebook was publishedin2015.Visit The Hero’s EncounterwiththeBeast book, the LosAngelesTimes andCineaste.Her alsoappearregularlyin feature articles Ambassador magazine.Herreviewsand author, writerandfrequentcontributorto Maria Garcia isaNewYork City-based are notfreeeither.” dom there,”thefilmmakersays,“butwe find waystoseeeachother. finally herself.” that Verida, inthelastmoment,is thinks, Ihopetheywillunderstand she says.“Whatevertheaudience not thatmyfilmendsinasadway,” that isunintentional.“Myideawas equivocal ending,Occhipintiinsists too nuancedforthat.” are freeortheynot.Cultures answer. Itistoosimpletosaythatwe mind thatIamnotabletocompletely cated thing.Ihavequestionsnowinmy compli- chipinti says.“Freedomisavery more freebeforemakingthisfilm,”Oc- gavage less takesafeministstance,portraying “There maynotbecompletefree- While themoviehasadecidedly Cinematic QuestsforIdentity: as a misogynistic practice. “I felt asamisogynisticpractice.“Ifelt NIAF membersbenefit from a10%discount on all our services on allourservices

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6 6 59507_Magazine.indd 64 4Ambassador 64 WWW.NIAF.ORG BETWEEN THE PAGES Italian American Reader the Summer Domenico inNoto Casa San find inside each book’s pages. find insideeachbook’spages. tence ortwothatgivessomeideaofwhatyou’ll of interesttoItalianAmericanreaders. are ian AmericanorItalianauthors,otherwise They’reallwrittenbyItal- await yourdiscovery. renownedauthors, while others by international these booksarecriticallyacclaimedandscribed and notnow. Oneday, maybe. appeal,butnothere which, yes,hasacertain alone, we’dbeanilliteratelotofbeachbums— If welimitedoursummerreadingtobeachtime of fiction,nonfictionand,simply, thefabulous. instead aregoingkneedeepintoaneclecticmix humid windsand reading” concepttothewarm books section,wehavetossedtheclichéd“beach Buonalettura! Check outthebookcoversandtellingsen- So,takealook,beachornobeach.Someof For ourinauguralSummerTravel issue’s

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90_aaieid 65 59507_Magazine.indd Mattia Aquila © Magnificent Interiors Of Sicily: Val Di Noto by Samuele Mazza, Rizzoli, 2019 244 pages;$65hardcover Publications Rizzoli International By SamueleMazza Val DiNoto OfSicily: Interiors Magnificent story impossibletoerase. story insinuated itselfintoacenturies-old respectful ofwhatithasfound; hereontiptoes,always has arrived brought backtosplendor. Modernity estates,andfarmhouses palaces, rural andthroughthehomes, and terraces, throughthestreets,alleys, is ajourney that arehardtoputintowords….It express throughimagessensations experience. Itisabookthatwantsto than throughavisualandaesthetic toldlesswithwords This bookisastory Casa RachelinNoto palazzos in Noto itself; and the Country palazzos inNotoitself;andthe Country opens doorsto16remarkable villasand sections—the NoblesseOblige section devastated community. andregeneratea that cantransform the inspiration,spiritandimagination Noto’s isatestamentto amazingrebirth earthquake, then hitbyamodern-day thatrazedthearea,and earthquake followingthe tragic1693 18th century in thelateBaroquestyleearly andvillas.Rebuiltlargely es, farms residenc- homes anditsidylliccountry it looksinsideNoto’s extraordinary well beyondthetouristallure.Instead, so muchasanimmersionthatgoes perched onahill.” me, agrandBaroquecityinminiature years Notoremainsamagicalplacefor thereoften.“Afterallthese who returns ated. Itisastrongtaste,”writesEngel, rehab infullprogress.“Notoisexagger- decades later, tofindthecity’s returned schooler studyingabroadand,acouple first foundNotoasa16-year-old high atNBCNews,who eign correspondent of NotobyRichardEngel,chieffor- photos toskipbytheexcellentoverview hint ofthevisualspectaclestocome. enon the“StoneGarden.”Botharejusta photo ofthecity’s architecturalphenom- followed afewpageslaterwithstriking into acolossalflowergarden.That’s thecityanditsstairways that transforms rata ofNoto—thefamouseventinMay with ashow-stopperimageoftheInfio- establishes itsphotographicsplendor thebook tural wonders.Fromthestart, with stunninglandscapesandarchitec- Val diNotoisanareaandcityabundant the IbleanhighlandstoIonianSea, Italy, extendinginsoutheastSicilyfrom vibrant, monumentalcity. calamity-stricken Siciliantownintothe ongoing eventoday, thatre-imagineda happened there,overcenturiesand ofwhat to reconsidertheupliftingstory contemplate theexquisitephotography, resist pickingitupagainandagain,to proves somesmerizingthatyoucannot place,but aesthetic valueofaparticular captures thesignificance,essenceand along thatnotonlysocharmingly The book is divided into two main The bookisdividedintotwo main But thisbookisn’t atravelogue But don’t besoenamoredbythe municipalityin largest The fourth Once inawhile,bookcomes upcoming itinerary. you,itmightchange your informs Interiors OfSicily:Val DiNoto there, SamueleMazza’s Sicily’s Val diNoto,orhaveneverbeen details. there aresomanywonderful demands attentiontodetails—because photo oversight? No,insight.Every going evencaptionsinmostcases.An photography tospeakforitself,for- sparkling, intriguingandeye-locking bookallowsits coffee-table-sized and inthecountry, thismagnificent ing thelocales,villasandhousesintown and thecontemporary. thetraditional of Noto’s, harmonizing likesomuch it’sRisorgimento, charm, rooms insidewhosefrescoesdatetothe withnumerous columns andterraces, bygardens,ancient house, surrounded Dimora delleBalze,anelegantcountry ongoing parallelrenewal.Consider tus forests,andmountainpines,isan and beautyofolivegroves,eucalyp- steepedintherichness countryside manor newlife. the MarquessesofCastelluccio,gavethis Lucio Bonaccorsi,whoseancestorswere signer LuisaBeccariaandherhusband wherefamousfashionde- countryside, Feudo delCastelluccio,inthebucolic for Fiorentino’s facepaintings. large by 1749,itisnowanopenspacesetting stroyed originsdateto1212butrebuilt Cistercian abbeywhoseearthquake-de- ofthe tino. Oncetheoldrefectory Fioren- Sergio renowned Cataneseartist Step intothehomeandstudioof andworkingspacesofartists: quarters city’s ancientwallsareinspiredmodern and originalbeauty. Also,withinthe of theplacerespectingitsauthenticity 2008 asa“ Rooms Villadoratawasestablishedin graphed building.ItsHotelSeven the picturesquetown’s mostphoto- completed in1765and,today, remains residences inSicily, thepalazzowas Considered oneofthemostbeautiful laci, inNoto’s ofthebaroque. heart areas. the beautifulnearbyrural Freedom sectionvisits22residencesin Whether you’ve never heard of Whether you’veneverheardof Besides briefintroductionsdescrib- Outside thecity, amidVal diNoto’s of And, then,there’s therustic In thecity, withPalazzoNico- start maison decharme — Don Oldenburg — DonOldenburg Magnificent Magnificent ,” a renewal ,” arenewal not only notonly Ambassador

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6 8 90_aaieid 66 59507_Magazine.indd 6Ambassador 66 WWW.NIAF.ORG BETWEEN THE PAGES Strepponi. his muse,operasingerGiuseppina Verdi’s tumultuousrelationship with gio’s “devilbedamned”exploits,and randy lovelifeofOvid,toCaravag- juicy biographicaldetails-—fromthe andcomposers include poets, artists, Milan. HerchaptersonItaly’s beloved in fashion designsattheArmani/Silos sion orswooningovercontemporary Trapani atatraditionalEasterproces- in footsteps, whethershe’s awestruck ries ofItaliantreasures. quest todiscoverfascinatingbacksto- onher craftsmen andfoodartisans es theboot,encounteringscholars, blended,asHalestravers- masterfully glass, andFerraris. cheese,Venetianpoetry, parmesan ples, Renaissancemasterpieces,opera, such wondersasancientRomantem- Passione given totheworld.Assheseesit, great rangeofculturalgiftsItalyhas Hales takesajoyfuldeepdiveintothe Mona Lisa:ALifeDiscovered World’s MostEnchantingLanguage withItalian,the Lingua: MyLoveAffair smell, andbiteintolapassioneitaliana. anyone cansee,hear, touch,caress,sip, awashintangibledelights, In acountry 320 pages;$26hardcover Crown Archetype By DianneHales How Italy Seducedthe World La Passione: Strepponi isoneofmanyfemale It’s adelighttofollowinher lessonsare Memoir andhistory Following herbestselling isthedrivingforcebehind , Dianne La Bella and La kept thephotographtohimself. toClaireand cottage. Hegavethejewelry the onlythingsJacobyretainedfrom The metalboxanditsbelongingswere $19.95 paperback Black RoseWriting; 281pages By AndrewCotto An ItalianAdventure Cucina Tipica: character despisesdullness. AndBill, fellow Brit,Dolores,ahumorous fantastic pizzas;Claire’s cousinand trees atPines’rentalvillaand makes scenarios. Paolotendstothe olive engaging charactersandintriguing travel writer, thesearchison—with Italy withhisfiancé,Claire,afreelance in From themomentPinesarrives laced excursiontofindtheanswer. photo? You’ll goonanon-stop, food- 1939.” photo read:VillaFloria-Zanobini, photo ofamysteriouswoman. and findsametalboxthatcontains his father’s belongingsafterhisdeath New York City, Pinesgoesthrough guitarist andfiredPRconsultantfrom and ananswer. rock-band Aformer for anewlife,goodfoodandwine, character JacobyPineswhohungers adventure, featuringdispiritedcentral Instead, thebookitselfisarecipefor recipes. beautiful scenery—sans ings withdelectablefood,vinoand through Florenceanditssurround- Italianjourney takes youonasavory Cucina Tipica: AnItalianAdventure and soul. ing readerstoItaly’s authenticheart dant banquetofinspiration,connect- makersofEmiliaRomagna. parmesan in Modena,andpasta,proscuitto where balsamicvinegarsareproduced attics chocolate makersinPerugia, deliciousness, sherecountsvisitsto Adding “Mother ofBaroloWine.” Nelli andMarchesaGiuliaColbert, of Italy’s past,suchaspainterSuora women telling storiesofpowerful heroines Halesweavesintothetext, What’s Pinesconnectiontothe Cotto writes:“Thebackofthe Andrew Cotto’s thirdnovel, Ultimately, La Passione — SusanVan Allen isanabun- , contemporary adventure. contemporary writing, Cottodeliversacompelling fantastic belongs there,too.With and you’lldiscoverifPines’heart gives youthesensethatItalyiscalling, sagra flavorful in theaction—andalsoslow-cooksa Hotel Floria-Zanobini,playsakeyrole an ex-patAmericanwhomanagesThe Yesterday shipping magazines A regularcontributortotheworldwide of“thegreatlinersthepast.” history knowledge andunderstandingofthe ian Line hadeverwitnessed. the greatport was oneofthemostmemorablesend-offs in theharbor, includingMichelangelo,it ating serenadefromalltheshipswhistles loons, dressedoverallandwithareverber- streamofbal- Releasing amulti-colored 96 pages;$24.95paperback Amberly Publishing By IanSebire and Raffaello Leonardo Davinci, Michelangelo Masters oftheItalianLine: of today. ocean linerssoldonmaritime voyages prints andgreetingcardsof famous talent asapainter, with watercolor Sebire isalsorenownedforhisartistic oceanicliners. on20th-century expert Cucina Tipica In hisfirstbook, The focusofthisbookison the . , Ian Sebire demonstrates a vast , IanSebiredemonstratesavast and cinghiale Seabreezes — Robert Fanelli Bartus Jr. FanelliBartus — Robert (typicalcuisine) (boar) Shipping Today and Masters oftheItal- , he is a respected , heisarespected ragù forthe /51 10:54 AM 6/15/19 6 / 1

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6 9 90_aaieid 67 59507_Magazine.indd to recountingtheexperienceoflife required foreachships’construction, explaining thecomplexengineering read.From mative andentertaining tisements, thatmakesforaninfor- ings, and1960s-eramagazineadver- intricate detailswithphotos,paint- coupling historicalperspectiveand oceanicliners, count of20th-century of theItalianline.It’s adetailedac- thelastthreeship“builds” particular ships,andin atlantic oceaniccruise post-World trans- War IIeraofluxury history oftransatlanticoceanliners. history captivating episodefromthelarger ships, Doria tothefinaldaysofthesethree From theshipwreckofAndrea fascinating taleofwoeandcelebration. a hopeforbetterlifehavelentto ogy, shipwrecks,engineeringflaws,and lantic travel,advancementsintechnol- of thesethreeItalianships. facet onboard, Sebireexaminesevery into thesoul. They moveandtraveldelvedeeper moment intime,writtenwordsarefluid. Unlike photoswhichcaptureasingle after she’sbeengoneforsomanyyears. letter.each andevery Yes, stilltoday, even wordof I couldhearhervoiceinevery 91 pages;$13paperback Lulu PublishingServices By MariaA.Novajosky Countries FullofKisses Two and anAirplane, An Ocean, Throughout the history oftransat- Throughout thehistory Masters oftheItalianLine — JosephEnzler tells a tellsa and herfamilytofeelathome. Nonna. TheselettersallowedMaria week,readingaletterfrom every meals, attendingSundaymass,and, in Italy, suchasmakinghome-cooked continued manytraditionstheybegan beloved Verona, sheandherfamily ically andculturallyfarfromtheir living intheDeepSouth,sogeograph- Despite and foundherselfinGeorgia. cence, movedtotheUnitedStates with hernonna,butinadoles- Maria A.NovajoskybeganlifeinItaly Ambassador /51 10:54 AM 6/15/19 67 WWW.NIAF.ORG 6 BETWEEN THE PAGES / 1

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7 0 90_aaieid 68 59507_Magazine.indd 8Ambassador 68 WWW.NIAF.ORG BETWEEN THE PAGES tours toItaly. MariastilllivesinGeor- Italian Americanlife,andaguideof of three,abloggeraboutItalyandher author growsuptobecomeamother adjusts toalife-changingmove.The advice andwisdomofhernonna, a younggirlwho,guidedbytheloving Italian wayoflifethroughtheeyes Countries FullofKisses embracing wanderlust. head-on, tocookingrichfoodand a cleanhouseandfacingchallenges helpful piecesofadvice,fromkeeping Shealwaysprovided love toeveryone. daily activitiesandspreadingbitsof lection ofherletters,recounting col- 2006, Mariahadamassedalarge and loveherfamily. Nonna alwaysfoundawaytonourish person sheandNonnaencountered. out ofVerona, andchattingwithevery opera, makingthetreacherousdrive tinue theiradventures,seeingherﬁrst Maria wouldgoseeNonnaandcon- from schoolintheUnitedStates, An Ocean,anAirplane,andTwo By thetimeNonnapassedawayin In Italy, andevenduringbreaks recountsthe of thissweetbook. reader on toteachsomethingevery gia, andhernonna’s advicestilllives Fascist volunteer, camps fromtheviewpointofanItalian preconceptions underwhichIwashiding? shell; willIeverbeabletoshuckthehuskof too enteredtheworldwearingaspinyouter I smoothandﬁrm. emerges, fruit formed break, itshusksplitsopen,theround,well- A chestnuttumblestotheground,itsspines 368 pages;$27hardcover Farrar, StraussandGiroux; Translated byAnneMilanoAppel By LuceD’Eramo Deviation: ANovel free herselffromthehusksofher 1944,shehopesto Italy inFebruary bor campsduringHitler’s Third Reich. ofla- teenager todisprovethehorrors Luce D’Eramo’s naïveattempt asa A harrowing account of Nazi accountofNazi A harrowing When D’Eramo leaves Northern When D’EramoleavesNorthern Deviation — EmilyCurran chronicles chronicles collapses on her as she rescues a family collapses onherassherescuesafamily inMainz,whenawall other tragicturn in October1944. Dachau, D’Eramomanagestoescape to slipping intoagroupofdeportees hell intheNazinightmare.Voluntarily her beliefsgetdestroyedbyunending Fascist bureaucrat’s daughter. Instead, stultifying yetprivilegedpositionasa In February 1945,herlifetakesan- In February /51 10:54 AM 6/15/19 6 / 1

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7 1 90_aaieid 69 59507_Magazine.indd psychically, ifnotphysically, fromthe is D’Eramo’s attempttofreeherself, the taletoldinfournon-linearparts lator’s introduction.Fromit,welearn 1979, its originalpublishinginItalian evil. ror afterbarelysurviving the waistdown,shefacespersonalhor- house.Paralyzedfrom from acrumbled A worldwidebestsellerfollowing Deviation includesausefultrans- greatest players in the game that you greatest playersinthegamethatyou and introduceyoutooneofthe youtothe1920s-1930s will transport Basketball novel read MikeDeLucia’s historicalfiction in themoodforafeel-goodbook, honest story. painful, lucidlytold,andunrelentingly stand thetwistsofthisunflinchingly and writingaftertraumamaywith- literature, autobiographicalfiction, prisons ofbothmindandbody. Street hedribblesupanddownforyears. the dayspileashighthatRussianHill He practiceshisdrills,dayafterday, and $10.99 paperback DeLucia; 157pages By MikeDeLucia Changed Basketball Madness: Man Who The

If life is a little hectic and you’re If lifeisalittlehecticandyou’re Readers interestedinHolocaust Madness: The Man Who Changed Madness: TheManWhoChanged . DeLucia’s engagingwriting — KirstenKeppel page-turning fingertips. page-turning toyouraction onthehardcourt play-by-play descriptions,bringthe and family, plussomewonderful acters, includingplayers,coaches char-A fantasticgroupofsupporting future thatdidn’t includebasketball. fano, whowantedtoplanhisson’s ship betweenhimandhisfather, Ste- love ofhislife,Connie.Therelation- Luisetti’s loveforthegameand you’ll getmore.Pagesflowingwith novel’s themeisaboutbasketball, Althoughthis splendid storytelling. Luisetti’s hoops-playingcareerwith to score50pointsinagame. Stanford, andthefirstcollegeplayer He wasathree-timeAll-Americanat cisco’s playgroundsandgymnasiums. ning one-handedshotonSanFran- tionized thegamebycreatingrun- School graduatechangedandrevolu- “Hank” Luisetti. probably neverheardof—Angelo DeLucia weaves a story about DeLucia weavesastory Luisetti? Yes, theGalileoHigh — Robert Fanelli Bartus Jr. FanelliBartus — Robert Ambassador

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7 2 90_aaieid 70 59507_Magazine.indd 0Ambassador 70 WWW.NIAF.ORG BETWEEN THE PAGES 410 pages;$27hardcover Crown By FrancesMayes New PlacestoDiscover inItaly See You inthePiazza: Friuli toSicilyfollowingthe touristspotshavelosttouchwith. run andauthenticdailylifemostover-charm providing anintimateviewofthelocal through undiscoveredgemsofItaly travel experienceasMayesguidesyou summer, armchair thisbooktheperfect intensifies. ception thesenseofdiscovery of well-visitedplacesbecausewithoutprecon- equaltothedelights roads yieldspleasures of sight.We’ve foundthatroamingtheback don’t know. remainout ofborghi Hundreds explored? Yes. Iconstantlyhearoftowns Is thereasquareinchofTuscany that’sun- 200 flaggedvillages,whichiswhat and interesting.Therearemorethan deemed especiallyattractive,historic are awardedtolesserknownvillages iere Arancioni Mayes embarks on a journey from Mayes embarksonajourney For thosenottravelingtoItalythis , OrangeFlags,which Band- discovered. places evenmostItalianshavenotyet this booktotravelItalyexperience hypnotized bythebeautydescribedin her readers,causingthemtobecome inflict theFlorencesyndromeupon exposed toobjectsofgreatbeauty. whenindividualsare legedly occurring ing dizzinessandhypnotizational- syndrome, whichisaconditioninvolv- bytheFlorence about beingovertaken the Piazza and landscapesthroughout der ofItaly’s breathtakinglandmarks that areraretotraditionalguidebooks. andhumor astically keenobservations and cultureofeachplacewithenthusi- as shedescribesthefood,wines,history that readerscanprepareathome. Italianrecipestoherbook temporary meets alongthewaytocontributecon- withtalentedchefsshe also partners eling to13ofItaly’s 20regions.Mayes Mayes andherhusbandaimtosee,trav- Mayes’ descriptionsmayalso To won- emphasizetheawestruck She makestheunfamiliarfamiliar , Mayesandherhusbandjoke — NatalieWulderk See You in /51 10:54 AM 6/15/19

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7 5 59507_Magazine.indd 73 I the opponentisasvitalknowing what’s goingonwith fewdays.Beinguptodate on opponents changeevery for abroadcastisanevolving job,especiallywhenthe head backtotheboothand finishtheprep.Preparing ant togetthattimearoundthemanager. players andtheteamitself,dailyorweekly, soit’s import- few exceptions.Thingstendtochangequicklyforseveral with sport daily grindofabaseballseason.Itisaneveryday around theballclub. timetocatchuponthedailyhappenings the perfect Callaway, typicallygiveshisthoughtsaround4p.m.That’s occur duringbattingpractice.TheMetsmanager, Mickey tochatwiththeplayers,whichcanalso for opportunities ballpark inthe3-o’clockhourwhenclubhouseisopen Cohen, whoisnowtheMetstelevisionvoiceonSNY. ofthefirstMetsannouncertrioin1962,andGary was part team wasFordFrick,andawardwinnerBobMurphy, who producingthegames,Metsradio Man! Whenhestarted Iron a MetsregularseasongamesinceAugust1993—atrue producer andengineerChrisMajkowski,whohasn’t missed the gamesnowonWCBS-AM,Ed'sbackinbooth. flagship stationwasWFAN wherehe'dbeensince1987.With game showhost—aroleheheldmanyyearswhentheMets known figuresamongMetsfans.EdColemanisthepre- and Iwouldnotbewhereamwithouthisguidance. and afriend.Hehashelpedmebecomebetterbroadcaster, game.Howiehasbecomeamentor, during every aconfidant the NewYork tositnext broadcastingiconI’mfortunate 1987, whenIwasthreeyearsold.He’s muchmorethanjust oranothersince of theMetsbroadcastcrewinoneform isHowieRose,whohasbeenapart Mets lore.Mypartner Metsgame. this ismyfirstbehindthemicforevery post-game shows,andfillinginontheplay-by-playside, teemed radiocrew. Afterfouryearsofhostingthepre-and New York Mets. my experienceasaradioplay-by-playannouncerforthe team’s broadcasters.I’mheretosharewithyousomeof a hot-dogvendor, oroneofthe shortstop thestarting By Wayne Randazzo MLB Play-by-Play: Behind theScenes you’ve wonderedaboutbeinganusherattheballpark, self whatitwouldbeliketoworkinthegame.Maybe f you’reabaseballfan,youmayhavethoughttoyour- Once thoseconversationsare done,it’s timeto appreciate isthe One thingthatfansmaynottruly A typical7:10p.m.gametimemeansgettingtothe We wouldneverevenmakeitontheairwithoutour Howie andIareflankedbyacoupleofotherwell- tosharetheboothwithafewfiguresof I’m fortunate This yearismyfifthasamemberoftheMetses-

Alyssa Rose the books!” me anote!AftereachMetswin,Howieyelps,“Putitin on whatlifeislikeinabigleaguebooth. any other. Ihopethishasallowedyoutogainsomeinsight casting throughaMajorLeagueBaseballseasonisunlike tive ofthepromiseAlonsohasshowninbigleagues. schmidt thenandAlonsonowhelpslistenersgainperspec- Louis Cardinals.DrawingthecomparisonbetweenGold- Goldschmidt, whoisnowaperennialAll-StarfortheSt. League. Theyhadafirstbasemanin2011namedPaul games fortheDouble-AMobileBayBearsinSouthern recordthroughMay31with19.Iusedtocall homerun first basemanPeteAlonsotiedMarkMcGwire’s rookie our conversationaltone. No reasontoforceanything;Ithinklistenersappreciate ofourbroadcasts. isabigpart tions lightandcomfortable there’s sometimehilariouslyspent.Keepingourconversa- Brazilian steakhouses.SodoesHowie!Mentionthat,and Howie makesthateasy. Arizona’s EduardoEscobarlikes about abaseballbroadcastisfillingtimebetweenpitches. relations department. notes providedbyeachteam’s media book andreadingthroughthegame includes writingthelineupsinmy the Mets.Thispregameprepalso Howie Rose,WayneRandazzoandChrisMajkowski and the longtime sports columnistforAmbassador magazine. and thelongtimesports sion play-by-playannouncerfor FS1,ESPNandBigTen Network, broadcasts onWCBSNewsradio 880.He’salsoafreelancetelevi- Wayne Randazzoisaplay-by-playannouncerforNewYork Mets Also, ifyouhaveanycatchphraseideas,pleasesend therewardofbroad- While thetravelcanbegrueling, Forexample,Mets Baseball lendsitselftostorytelling. The greatestandperhaps mostchallengingthing Wayne Randazzo Ambassador 6/15/19 10:55 AM

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7 6 90_aaieid 74 59507_Magazine.indd 4Ambassador 74 WWW.NIAF.ORG Big Time intheBig Apple! celebrate asonebigItalianfamily.” heritage: "We cometogethertonightto the eveningwasacelebration ofshared Brooklyn, whoreminded everyonethat ello ofMaryQueenHeaven Church in introduced MonsignorJamieJ.Giganti- sador JoePiscopo,welcomedguestsand cast member, andNIAFCelebrityAmbas- talk-show host,former This year’s masterofceremonies, radio la famiglia and spokepoignantlyontheimportance and extendedfamiliestothered carpet three honorees brought theirimmediate on NIAF’s silent-auctioncollections. ani’s famousBellinicocktailswhilebidding guests, VIPsandhonorees enjoyedCipri- evolved into.Duringthecocktailreception, lively, high-energy, annualeventithas room inthesold-out eventmakingita New York andaround theworldﬁlled of Manhattan. and grandgoldencurtainsintheheart mingled betweensweepingarchways New York GalaonApril9,where guests historic Cipriani42ndStreet foritsannual Foundation returned totheelegantand Board MemberRobertCarlucciandhiswifeAileen NIAF InternationalRelationsLiaisonCarloPiccolo,RachelSalerno, The giftedItalianAmerican10-year- The eveningwasafamilyaffair. All Italian andAmericansfrom The NationalItalianAmerican has played in their success. hasplayedintheirsuccess. Saturday NightLive Insider

your success.” being willimmediatelyorient itself toward victorious, everynerveandfiber inyour Ikeda: “Themomentyouresolve tobe quote aboutdeterminationfrom Daisaku tate. Berkthoughtfullyleftateveryseata Special AchievementAward inRealEs- The NationalItalianAmericanFoundation cial RealEstateCompany, whoreceived nior vicepresident attheLefrakCommer- first honoree, MarylouDelfinoBerk,se- meal, Piscopointroduced theevening’s and age-oldtradition.” Molise, whichhas“arichhistoryofart ment thatthe2019RegionofHonoris made themuch-anticipatedannounce- the vibrantinstitutionitistoday. Healso for makingtheNIAFNewYork Galainto Committee andtheevening’s sponsors thanked theFoundation’s NewYork tive officer, AmericasatBarclays Capital, Board ofDirectors, andchiefadministra- Gerard S.LaRocca, amemberofNIAF’s awe fortheyoungperformer. filling theaudiencewithadmirationand anthems oftheUnitedStatesandItaly, and movingrenditions ofthenational old singerRominaPerrisangbeautiful Retired JudgeFrankM.Ciuffani During theexquisite,three-course New York GalaDinnerChairman NIAF’s New York Gala scholarships. of ourcommunitythrough grantsand American heritageandfunding thefuture the organization doesinpreserving Italian continued supportoftheimportant work Harrison, whothankedthecrowd forits briel A.BattistaandPatriciadeStacy message from NIAF’s Co-ChairsGa- selection ofdecadentdesserts,anda for himself. creating theAmericanDream States onhisownwhenhewas23,and Italy, spokeaboutmovingtotheUnited 34-year-old entrepreneur from Sorrento, promoting Italianbusinessesabroad. The Entrepreneur forhisaccomplishmentsin Special AchievementAward forYoung National ItalianAmericanFoundation of TheOneCompany, received The other ItalianAmericans.” be where Iam todaywithoutthehelpof Italian Americancommunity:“Iwouldn’t Ciuffani credited hissuccesstothe bench andinprivatepractice.Judge Superior Courtand40yearsonthe Service forhisserviceontheNewJersey Foundation SpecialAward inPublic received The National ItalianAmerican The eveningconcludedwitha Lorenzo Zurino,founderandCEO Photography by©JasonIsolini — NatalieWulderk /51 10:55 AM 6/15/19 6 / 1

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New York Gala Chairman and NIAF Executive Vice President Gerard LaRocca

NIAF Celebrity Ambassador and Master of Ceremonies Joe Piscopo

Honoree Lorenzo Zurino NIAF Co-Chair Gabriel A. Battista

NIAF Board Member Dr. Antonio Giordano and his wife Mina Massaro Giordano NIAF’s Co-Chairs Gabriel A. Battista and Patricia de Stacy Harrison

Joe Piscopo with honoree Judge Frank M. Ciuffani Honoree Marylou Delﬁno Berk

Salvatore Salibello, Alma Laias, NIAF Secretary Linda Carlozzi, and Giuseppe Di Fuccia David Greco, owner of Mike’s Deli, on Arthur Avenue in the Bronx, with honoree Lorenzo Zurino WWW.NIAF.ORG

Tony Lo Bianco and wife Alyse Romina Perri

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7 8 59507_Magazine.indd 76 76 WWW.NIAF.ORGWWW.NIAF.ORG Photos byDonOldenburg Ambassador Valente, andNIAFChairPatriciadeStacyHarrison NIAF ViceChairAnitaBevacquaMcBride,Claudia Liaison MariaFrancescaNespoliCarlberg and ItalianEmbassyCongressionalAffairs Veneable LLPCaraGray Council MemberJeanneAllen Congressman BillPascrellandNIAFdaVinci exciting evening. commemorate the they tookhomeshinytrophies to prevailed, Thisyear, winningthetournament. For thesecondyearinarow, theCongressional duo Bill Pascrell andMikeDoyleforthechampionship. a Xerox Agency, challengedlastyear’s winnersCongressmen and JonVitale, whoare NIAF membersandbothworkforCDS- beloved andfunItaliangamethathasbecomeayearlyNIAFtradition. of thecity. MembersofCongress cametogethertoenjoythemuch Capital, onitsgorgeous rooftop boccecourtwithapanoramicview Embassy ofItalyandtheItalianAmericanCongressional Delegation. featuredtournament eightteamsofparticipantsfrom NIAF, the Held inmemoryofformerBoard MemberMarkValente III,the Congressional BocceBallTournament hadbeautifulweather. Congressional BocceBall Tournament Insider — NatalieWulderk At sunset,theﬁnalround wasanailbiterasJon-ThomasVitale Venable LLPhostedtheeventatitsheadquartersinNation’s For theﬁrsttimeinyears,onMay15,NIAF’s seventhannual Domenico BellatoneandStefanoItri Italian EmbassyFirstCounselor General CounselJosephLonardo counselor PaoloToschi andNIAF Italian EmbassyCongressionalaffairs and GabrielA.Battista with NIAFCo-ChairsPatriciadeStacyHarrison Perennial championCongressmanBillPascrell Aaron Bill Vice President Badame andIACSA member Meghan Browning withIACSA Association Geoff Congressional Staff Italian American President ofthe Above: Outgoing Flaminia Sacchettotakesaturn. Congressional Bocce Champions ofthe2019 man MikeDoyle Paul BesozziandCongress- Ball Tournament: Congressmen Mike Doyle and Bill Pascrell 6/15/19 10:55 AM 6 / 1

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7 9 59507_Magazine.indd 77 John Calvelli Mike Fergusonand former congressman honoree CraigCarpenito, governor ChrisChristie, Gerard LaRocca,former Anthony DiSandro, Phillip Rinaldi, Bill Palatucci, In thegranddiningroomatParkSavoyEstate Photos byDonOldenburg role andmembership inIACSA.” hardest partabout leavingCapitolHillismy today. Browning acknowledgedthat“the since 2015tomore than400members IACSA membership,visibilityandimpact NIAF medalingratitudeforgrowing the the reception. donation ofthepopularItaliancocktailfor Wholesalers ofAmericaforitsgenerous Calvelli thankedsponsorWine&Spirits to beanItalianAmericaninpublicservice. heartfelt openingremarks onwhatitmeans AffairsGovernment Committee,gave acqua McBride,theCo-ChairsofNIAF's members. JohnCalvelliandAnitaBev- gressional staffers welcomed newIACSA Members, ItaliandiplomatsandCon- Cross. CommitteeoftheRed for theInternational public serviceontheHillisleavingtowork D’Errico Browning, whoafter11yearsof and honoringitsfoundingPresident Geoff Congressional Staff Association(IACSA) Social, celebratingtheItalianAmerican munity onCapitolHillenjoyedNIAF’s Spritz Spritz SocialonCapitolHill McBride presented Browning witha NIAF Board anddaVinci Council On May23,theItalianAmericancom- O’Reilly FalangaLLP A. JoycefromWalshPizzi Peter J.PizziandElizabeth — NatalieWulderk John CalvelliandChrisBerardini Toschi oftheItalianEmbassywith Lamberto MoruzziandPaolo and ElisabethConklin Cooper Mullinax,DanAshworth President GeoffBrowning McBride andoutgoingIACSA NIAF ViceChairAnitaBevacqua FitzPatrick, Cole&Giblin,LLP Mongelli fromDeCotiis, Katie MoccoandBartG. Craig Carpenito the DistrictofNewJersey Honoree U.S.Attorneyfor Photos byJasonIsolini glass NIAFaward. joined Christieonstagetopresent Carpenitowiththesleek, di, AnthonyDiSandro andGerard LaRocca,andPalatucci Ferguson andCalvelli,NIAFBoard MembersPhillipRinal- Italian Americanswhohelped himadvancehiscareer, before blood relatives, everyoneintheneighborhoodwasyourfamily.” parents inBayRidgeandStatenIsland.“Itwasnotjustyour ing upinNewJerseyandvisitinghisItalianAmericangrand- is abigpartofmyidentity,” saidCarpenito,who recalled grow- try nottobedeﬁnedbyourgenderornationality, butheritage Carpenito whoreceived astandingovation.“Thesedays,we the endofdayisourItalianAmericanheritage.” crat orRepublican,”saidCalvelli,“whatbringsustogetherat plained NIAF’s historyandmission.“Whether you are Demo- Mike Ferguson andNIAFVice ChairJohnCalvelli, whoex- and introduced NIAFBoard Membersformercongressman Palatucci, specialcounselatGibbonsP.C., welcomedguests caprese salad. Duringdinnerinthegranddiningroom, Bill gnocchi withcreamy pesto,andclassicmeats,cheeses was thesettingforcocktailsandaperitivoofcannelloni, Carpenito. fortheDistrictofNewJerseyCraig to honorU.S.Attorney gathered atthe ParkSavoyEstateinFlorhamPark,N.J., hosted aregional fundraising dinnerinNewJersey. Guests NIAF’s CollegeScholarshipsNight Carpenito closedhisremarks thankingNIAFandallthe ChrisChristie introduced Former NewJerseyGovernor The elegantvenue’s gardens, terraceandidyllicpond On May29,theNationalItalianAmericanFoundation Anita BevacquaMcBrideandAaronBill John Calvelli,GeoffBrowning, addresses theSpritzcrowd NIAF ViceChairJohnCalvelli Samantha Stiles Jackie Cahanand — NatalieWulderk Insider David Giordano Carla DiBlasioand Ambassador 6/15/19 10:55 AM 77 WWW.NIAF.ORG 6 / 1

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NIAF is offering the following special events in the coming months. For more information Alitalia Celebrates New DC-to-Rome Flights and updates on other events, visit niaf.org. On May 2, Alitalia launched a new direct flight between Washington, D.C., and JULY 2019 Rome! Celebrations took place at the ribbon cutting at the gate in Dulles Airport, where the first flight departed from D.C. to Rome, as well as the Embassy of Italy, where NIAF NIAF Public Policy Board Members and the Italian Ambassador Armando Varricchio were in attendance. Congressional Dinner Date: July 11 Location: RPM Italian Restaurant, Washington, D.C. By Invitation Only Contact: Phillip Donofrio at [email protected]

VinOff Date: July 25 Location: Rayburn House Ofﬁce Building, Washington, D.C. By Invitation Only Contact: Phillip Donofrio at [email protected]

NOVEMBER 2019 NIAF 44th Anniversary Gala Date: November 1-2 Location: Omni Shoreham Hotel

J. David Buerk Contact: Jerry Jones at Cutting the ribbon at Dulles International Airport: 202-939-3102 or [email protected] Vice President of Airline Business Development Yil Surehan, Ambassador Armando Varricchio, and

Chief Business Ofﬁcer of Alitalia Fabio Lazzerini J. David Buerk

Ambassador Armando Varricchio, NIAF Co-Chair Gabriel Battista and Emiliana Limosani, Vice President Business Travel Sales & Commercial Partnerships of Alitalia J. David Buerk Andrea Bartlett At the Alitalia Reception at the Embassy of Italy: NIAF Chairman Emeritus Joseph Del Raso,

WWW.NIAF.ORG NIAF Vice Chair Anita Bevacqua McBride, Italy’s Ambassador to the United States Armando Varricchio, NIAF Chair Gabriel Battista and NIAF General Counsel Joseph Lonardo

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by Leon J. Radomile www.leonradomile.com

ACROSS 8 Mutton and lamb are the is this fortress built in 1450 over it became the youngest region up the region of Molise were 1 Molise is home of one of the meats of choice for Molise earlier Lombard ruins by the local in Italy. Identify the region it had named after their respective most popular ski resorts in the recipes. A favorite dish is stewed ruler Nicola II Monforte.. been part of. provincial capitals. Campobasso mountains of Central-Southern mutton with tomatoes and 17 Hailing from Campobasso, 5 Molise is the second smallest is one of the two. What is the Italy. It has 40 kilometers of onions, ﬂavored with rosemary this Italian light music singer region in Italy. What region is the other? slopes at all levels, served by a and hot peppers. Can you name and songwriter was popular in smallest? 15 Born in 1957, this graduate mix of chair lifts and ski-lifts. this dish? the 1960s and 1970s. Some 7 Family owned since 1950, this of the University of Naples is the Name the Molise ski resort. 10 People from Molise are called? of his most successful songs Molisani family from western current president of Molise and 2 This type of egg pasta dish is (masculine plural) include Malaga, Una Rotonda Sul Pennsylvania promotes itself a professor at the University of

produced in Molise by an instru- 12 This award-winning Italian Mare, Spaghetti a Detroit, Prima as offering the country’s widest Molise.

ment devised there in 1890. The American writer was born to c'eri tu and Bella Bellissima. assortment of gourmet Italian Ornithopter 15

instrument resembles a guitar Molisani parents in 1936 in New 18 Antonio Di Pietro, Italian foods. The brand name is also Rights Animal 14

and effectively gives the pasta York City. His most notable works politician and lawyer from Molise, their family name. Toma Donato 15

that unique look. include White Noise (1985), Libra led a nationwide 1990s judicial 9 Agnone is a commune in the Isernia 13 4 His grandparents emigrated (1988), Mao II (1991), Underworld investigation into political province of Isernia, in Molise. SOLUTION River Biferno 11

from the town of Ferrazzano in (1997) and Cosmopolis (2003). corruption in Italy. Identify these Agnone is known for manufactur- Bells 9 7 George Delallo George 7

Molise. Born in 1943, in Man- He has twice been a Pulitzer Prize corruptions trials that translates ing what hollow objects, typically d'Aosta Valle 5

hattan, he is a famous American winner and ﬁnalist, and has won in English to “clean hands.” made of metal and having the Abruzzo 3

actor, producer, and director. He the PEN/Faulkner Award. In 2013, 19 Identify the ancient musical shape of a deep inverted cup Campobasso 1 is a recipient of two Oscars, a he won the Library of Congress instrument, traditionally associ- widening at the lip. They sound DOWN

Golden Globe, the Cecil B DeMille Prize for American Fiction. Identi- ated with Christmas carols, that clear musical notes when struck 19 Bagpipes (Zampogne) Bagpipes 19

Award, AFI Life Achievement fy this gifted novelist, short-story is still made by hand by local by a swinging clapper inside. Pulite Mani 18

Award, and the Presidential writer, playwright, screenwriter artisans in the Molisani town of 11 The only river that’s entirely Bongusto Fred 17

Medal of Freedom. and essayist? Scapoli? located in Molise, it extends Monforte Castello 16

6 Born in Isernia in 1215, Saint 14 They were one of the ﬁrst through the region for 100 Samnites 14 Celestine V, whose birth name Italic tribes to inhabit the Molise DOWN kilometers. With headwaters on DeLillo Don 12

was Pietro Del Murrone, was 1 What is the capital city of the the northern side of the Matese Molisani 10 region, but were eventually Pezatta 8

pope of the Church of Rome for assimilated by the Romans and region of Molise? Mountains, it empties into the Abdication 6

WWW.NIAF.ORG only ﬁve months, from July 5 to ceased to exist as a distinct 3 Until 1963, Molise was part of Adriatic Sea near Termoli, and Jr. Niro De Robert 4

Dec. 13, 1294. Founder of the people. the region to its immediate north. lends its name to the region’s Chitarra alla Maccheroni 2 Celestine Order, he was the ﬁrst 16 One of the main attractions of When Molise’s ofﬁcial regional wine district. Name the river. Matese Campitello 1

pontiff to take what action? the capital city of Campobasso status became effective in 1970, 13 The two provinces that make ACROSS

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Victoria J. Mastrobuono Fund supportingsupporting thethe National Italian American Foundation's initiativesinitiatives andand programmingprogramming in education,education, thethe performingperforming arts,arts, liliteratureterature andand music.music.

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gw.pdf 83 6/18/19 12:43 PM Ambassador National Italian American Foundation 1860 19th Street NW Washington, DC 20009-5501

202-387-0600

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