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Robert Tatum, Esaias George, Harry Karstens, J UAF photo by Theresa Bakker. Tatum’s journal, dated June , : “Today stands a big red letter in my life.” Robert Tatum, Esaias George, Harry Karstens, Johnny Fredson and Walter Harper. Hudson Stuck. The Ascent of Denali Photo courtesy of Hudson Stuck’s book 6 aurora | fall 2013 MCKINLEY MEMORIES THE FIRST ASCENT OF DENALI: CHASING THE LEGACY By Theresa Bakker Angela Linn, ’99, wears bright purple I was truly excited to receive the gloves so she can handle the century- smaller journal. at diary had never old artifacts without leaving any been scanned.” ngerprints. She opens the at FedEx Stuck’s 1914 book, e Ascent of box and removes the documents, Denali, is the o cial record of the carefully preserving each layer of climb. It’s what historians refer to protective wrapping until she comes when they discuss the details. It’s how to a black, hardbound book with the the four climbers are remembered. words on the cover handwritten in Now for the rst time, Linn was able an almost ghostly white — Journal of to compare the book to the original UAF photo by Theresa Bakker. Archdeacon Hudson Stuck Recording journal and learn about the personal Ascent of Mt. Denali (Mt. McKinley), experiences of Stuck. June 1913. at’s why Linn wanted to have all Stuck had kept a faithful four of the journals kept by the men accounting of that year, important who reached the summit of McKinley to history because it included the during that 1913 expedition. She culmination of his dream to climb imagined displaying them together the highest peak in North America — for the rst time in 100 years — in honor of the 25th anniversary of as part of the UA Museum of the the Episcopal Church in Alaska. But North’s special exhibit, “Denali this book did not include any entries Legacy: 100 Years on the Mountain.” from the critical last days of the Stuck’s journals had been archived climb. Stuck le the heavy book at the by the American Geographical 10,800-foot camp. For his impressions Society since 1922. Linn managed of the nal push to the top of to track down the rest of them at McKinley, Stuck had kept a second various archives. e tiny diary kept journal, a slim pad about the size of a by Harry Karstens arrived next, from reporter’s notebook. the American Alpine Club library. “ is is what I’d been waiting for,” Karstens went on to become the rst Linn says. “I had read Stuck’s 1913 superintendent of Mount McKinley diary, so it was familiar to me. But National Park (now known as Denali National Park and Preserve). e nal two diaries, almost identical in documents agreed to lend them. Works on One of them, Robert’s grandnephew Doug appearance, arrived at the museum near the paper are fragile and sensitive to light. is Tatum, didn’t learn about his great-uncle’s end of January. ey were school notebooks, is likely the only time these documents have accomplishments until he was an adult. “I the kind where students wrote their lessons. been exhibited in their lifetimes.” had never, nor did any of my siblings know, One belonged to Walter Harper, a young Linn had never seen Tatum’s journal that my dad’s father’s brother was Robert Athabascan man who accompanied Stuck entries before. In fact, of all the members of Tatum and had summited Denali,” he says. on his many travels. e other was kept by the expedition, his story was the least known. “We didn’t know that. Dad said he was a very Robert Tatum, an Episcopal missionary from “He was kind of a mystery man,” she says. modest, quiet-spoken gentleman.” Tennessee who hoped to join the priesthood. “Tatum signed on as the o cial cook but also In Stuck’s diary is a reference to a ag made Both men were protégés of the charismatic reached the summit of the mountain himself. by Robert Tatum, “which he hopes to hoist Archdeacon Hudson Stuck. Harper’s journal He was the only member of the team without on top of the instrument tent on the summit,” is housed at the Rasmuson Library’s Alaska a Wikipedia entry. I felt a sort of obligation using “two silk handkerchiefs and the lining and Polar Regions Collections and Archives, to ll out his story and make the world more of a padded noodle can.” Linn thought those while Tatum’s is archived in the Special aware of his contributions.” kinds of artifacts were long gone, either le Collections at the University of Tennessee, As the guest curator for the museum’s on the mountain in the rush of the descent or Knoxville. exhibit, Linn wanted to ll in these gaps, so lost to time. But one day, as he was helping his “Having the actual pages with the words she hunted for connections to Tatum. She mother clean out the attic, Doug Tatum had written on them brings the story to life in a researched archives, talked to countless discovered this evidence of his great-uncle’s new way,” Linn says. “We’re incredibly lucky relatives and experts. Eventually, she found achievement. “It wasn’t kept very well. I found that the archives that hold these precious family members who still reside in Tennessee. it in a shoebox with some other items while Making the mountain Artifacts from the fi rst ascent are on exhibit at the UA Museum of the North through April , . Hundreds of ⅛-inch-thick pieces of plywood were used to make a -layer model of Mount McKinley. Museum sta reach new heights to put the fi nishing touches on the scale model of Mount McKinley. UAF photo by Theresa Bakker. UAF photo by Theresa Bakker. The fi nished model of Mount McKinley, with routes taken by climbers over the last century. Visitors follow a timeline on the exhibit walls featuring passages from all the climbers’ journals. UAF photo by JR Ancheta. UAF photo by JR Ancheta. 8 aurora | fall 2013 going through some stu with my parents. I Eugene personally took that ice axe from hand carried it to the Chicago conservatory.” Colorado to Fairbanks so it could be on at ag (pictured at far right) is part of the display in the exhibit. He couldn’t trust it to temporary Denali legacy exhibit, and hangs strangers. It has been his mission to protect near the last remaining climbing pick used by the legacy of his grandfather, to make sure the climbers. his name wouldn’t be forgotten by history. In contrast, Eugene Karstens knew from Linn says that from the very start, UAF photo by Theresa Bakker. an early age that it would be his responsibility this story longed to be told. “Personal to keep the story of his grandfather alive. He connections that started with a few emails knew because his mother told him so. “His and phone calls have grown into an exhibit climbing pick was one of the early things full of artifacts and the faces of the climbers’ my mother trusted me with. It went up on descendants. my wall over one of those classic Sierra “Now the precious histories of Hudson Club posters [with] the ve people in a row Stuck, Harry Karstens, Walter Harper, walking up a razor ridge, and that pick just Robert Tatum and John Fredson will once looked great over that. Right above a kid’s again be reconnected to the mountain they bed, and that was always a symbol of, well, rst set foot upon a century ago.” you have got something to live up to, kid. My Learn more about the fi rst ascent of Mount mom wasn’t stupid in that regard.” Theresa Bakker has an MFA from the Rainier McKinley at www.uaf.edu/museum/exhibits/ . Writing Workshop at Pacifi c Lutheran University. special/legacy/ She is the media coordinator at the UA Museum of the North. Artifacts from the fi rst ascent are on exhibit at the UA Museum of the North through April , . A pair of handmade crampons left on the Muldrow Glacier by the Sourdough Expedition’s unsuccessful attempt to reach the summit of Mount McKinley in . They were recovered by the Lindley- Like expedition years later. A model of the base camp kept by John Fredson at , feet on Cache Creek is equipped with a stove and pretend food. UAF photo by JR Ancheta. UAF photo by JR Ancheta. Harry Karstens’ snow goggles. Archdeacon Stuck records holding a religious service at , feet, which probably included this Eucharist set. It did not summit with the men, however. UAF photo by JR Ancheta. UAF photo by JR Ancheta. fall 2013 | www.uaf.edu/aurora/ 9.
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