Exmoor Landscape Character Assessment 2017 PART 2: Exmoor National Park 11 Consultation Draft, May 2017 Fiona Fyfe Associates Exmoor Landscape Character Assessment 2017 PART 2: THE STORY OF THE EXMOOR LANDSCAPE Exmoor National Park Exmoor National Park 2.1 Location and Boundaries of the National Park 2.1.1 Exmoor National Park is located in south-west England, and includes land in both West Somerset and North Devon. It is one of the smallest of Britain’s National Parks, covering 267 square miles (693 square km), yet contains some of the finest and most diverse landscapes in Britain including moorland, farmland, woodland and coast. It stretches from the outskirts of Combe Martin in the west to the village of Elworthy in the east. In the south, the town of Dulverton forms a gateway to the National Park, and in the north the boundary is formed by coastal cliffs abutting the Bristol Channel. The local service centres of Dulverton, Porlock and Lynton & Lynmouth are within the National Park, along with numerous smaller villages. The location and boundaries of Exmoor National Park are shown in Map 1. The location of Exmoor 2.2 National Park Purposes and Special Qualities 2.2.1 In common with other National Parks in England and Wales, Exmoor National Park Authority has the following statutory purposes: 12 Fiona Fyfe Associates Consultation Draft, May 2017 Exmoor Landscape Character Assessment 2017 PART 2: THE STORY OF THE EXMOOR LANDSCAPE Exmoor National Park To conserve and enhance the natural beauty, wildlife and cultural heritage of the area To promote opportunities for the understanding and enjoyment of its special qualities by the public. The National Park Authority is obliged to oversee and lead action to achieve these purposes, and, whilst doing so, seek to foster social and economic well-being of the National Park’s communities. The ‘Sandford Principle’ states that if it appears that there is a conflict between those purposes, the National Park Authority shall attach greater weight to the purpose of conserving and enhancing the natural beauty, wildlife and cultural heritage of the area1. ‘Relevant Authorities’ should have regard to National Park purposes when making decisions or carrying out activities relating to or affecting land within the National Park. Authorities and public bodies must show they have fulfilled this duty2. Where their activities outside National Parks might have an impact inside them, the Government says they should have regard to National Park purposes3. 2.2.2 Exmoor National Park was designated in 1954, in recognition of its significance and value at a national level. It was included on the list of potential National Parks contained within the 1947 Hobhouse Report because of its ‘spectacular coastline’, fine heather, bracken and grass moorland’ and ‘beautiful wooded valleys’. The overall intimate character of this soft upland with its ‘mosaic of contrasts’ in a relatively small area made it unique amongst National Parks. The Hobhouse Report also highlighted ‘antiquities in great profusion on Exmoor, including stone circles, barrows, hut circles as well as earthworks’ the ‘notable wildlife’ (including red deer) and stated that Exmoor is ‘first rate country for motoring, and for walking and riding’. 2.2.3 These qualities identified in the 1947 Hobhouse Report are still recognisable in Exmoor’s Special Qualities, as defined in the Exmoor National Park Partnership Plan and shown in the box below. Exmoor National Park’s Special Qualities include physical, cultural and perceptual characteristics of the landscape. The importance of protecting the landscape and cultural heritage of National Parks is set out in the Government Vision and Circular 2010, which states: Cultural heritage and landscape are fundamental to quality of place and, as they are central to attractiveness, distinctiveness, diversity and quality of place in the Parks, should be protected and enhanced.4 1 1995 Environment Act, Section 62 2 Section 11A of the National Parks and Access to the Countryside Act 1949, as amended by Section 62(2) of the Environment Act (1995). 3 DEFRA (2005) Guidance Note: Duties on relevant authorities to have regard to the purposes of National Parks, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty and the Norfolk and Suffolk Broads DEFRA, London (Paras 4-8) and Natural England (2011) England’s statutory landscape designations: a practical guide to your duty of regard 4 English National Parks and the Broads UK Government Vision and Circular 2010, Para. 49 13 Consultation Draft, May 2017 Fiona Fyfe Associates Exmoor Landscape Character Assessment 2017 PART 2: THE STORY OF THE EXMOOR LANDSCAPE Exmoor National Park Exmoor’s Special Qualities • Large areas of open moorland providing a sense of remoteness, wildness and tranquillity rare in southern Britain. • A distinct and diverse landscape of softly rounded hills and ridges, with heather and grass moors, spectacular coastal views, deeply incised wooded valleys, high sea cliffs, fast flowing streams, traditional upland farms and characteristic beech hedgebanks. • A landscape mostly free from intrusive development such as major roads, power lines, military activities, quarrying, mining, large scale developments, light pollution and clutter. • A mosaic of habitats supporting a great diversity of wildlife including herds of wild red deer, rich lichen communities, rare fritillary butterflies, bats, and other species uncommon in southern Britain. • A complex and rich historic landscape that reflects how people have lived in, exploited and enjoyed Exmoor over the past 8000 years, including burial mounds on ridges, discrete stone settings, ancient farmsteads and settlements, picturesque villages and historic estates. • A deeply rural community closely linked to the land with strong local traditions and ways of life. • A farmed landscape with locally distinctive breed such as Red Devon cattle, Devon Closewool and Exmoor Horn sheep, and herds of free living Exmoor Ponies. • An exceptional rights of way network and extensive areas of open country, providing superb opportunities for walking, riding and cycling. • A landscape that provides inspiration and enjoyment to visitors and residents alike. One of the characteristics of the Exmoor landscape is the visual compositions formed by farmland, moorland and woodland 14 Fiona Fyfe Associates Consultation Draft, May 2017 Exmoor Landscape Character Assessment 2017 PART 2: THE STORY OF THE EXMOOR LANDSCAPE Exmoor National Park Map 1: Exmoor National Park Boundary 15 Consultation Draft, May 2017 Fiona Fyfe Associates Exmoor Landscape Character Assessment 2017 PART 2: THE STORY OF THE EXMOOR LANDSCAPE Geography and Historical Background The Story of the Exmoor Landscape 2.3 The Natural Environment 2.3.1 The majority of the rocks underlying Exmoor are from the Devonian period (c. 416-359 million years ago). They form three broad ridges, running east-west, which have been cut by river valleys, as shown in Map 2. The oldest Devonian rocks are found in the north of the National Park, and the youngest in the south. The oldest (Lower Devonian) rocks are the hard slates and sandstones found in the majestic grey cliffs around Lynton. The Hangman Grits of the Middle Devonian period form a band running east-west across the National Park. They are resistant to erosion and weathering, and make up the highest parts of Exmoor: Dunkery and The Chains massif, and Selworthy Beacon and Croydon Hill. They can also be seen in the coastal cliffs of Hangman Hill, and between The Foreland and Minehead. The younger Ilfracombe Beds (Middle and Upper Devonian) form a band of sandstones and slates to the south, running through Simonsbath, Exford & Wheddon Cross. 2.3.2 The Devonian sandstones weather to create red soils, as can be seen in the eastern part of the National Park. Small pockets of limestone occur in the Ilfracombe Beds, which were quarried and burnt to create lime to help neutralise acid soils. Further south again, a band of Upper Devonian Morte Slates and Pickwell Down Beds form Winsford Hill, Withypool Common and the Brendon Hills, as well as Exmoor’s steep southern escarpment (North Molton Ridge, West and East Anstey Commons and Haddon Hill). The Geology of Exmoor Map drawn by John Hodgson, information © BGS Reproduced with permission 16 Fiona Fyfe Associates Consultation Draft, May 2017 Exmoor Landscape Character Assessment 2017 PART 2: THE STORY OF THE EXMOOR LANDSCAPE Geography and Historical Background Map 2: Landform 17 Consultation Draft, May 2017 Fiona Fyfe Associates Exmoor Landscape Character Assessment 2017 PART 2: THE STORY OF THE EXMOOR LANDSCAPE Geography and Historical Background 2.3.3 In the north-east of the National Park, around Porlock and Minehead, are younger Triassic and Jurassic rocks (formed c. 250-145 million years ago). These include conglomerate rocks containing pebbles, with a distinctive ‘hummocky’ local topography. More recent deposits include valley-floor material deposited by rivers, and the peat of the high moorlands. 2.3.4 Many different processes have acted on the underlying rocks over millennia to create the landscape which we see today, particularly erosion by wind and water. During (and following) the last Ice Age (c. 10,000 years ago) Exmoor had a peri-glacial climate. It is thought that the crags visible at the Valley of Rocks formed at this time through a process of frost-shattering. This occurs when water in the cracks within rocks repeatedly freezes and expands, weakening the rock and eventually causing it to shatter. The scree slopes of the high moors and coastal cliffs may well have similar origins. There are other examples of periglacial features which add to the character and distinctiveness of the Exmoor landscape. The deep combes of the high moors (e.g. Long Chains Combe and Woodbarrow Hangings) are simultaneously dramatic and tiny, with the outside world seeming to disappear from within. The dramatic feature of the Punchbowl on Winsford Hill forms a distinctive landform, although its origins are currently being debated.