Chaîne Des Rôtisseurs Abruzzo

1 Abruzzo is located in central Italy, be- have the turkey “alla canzanese” (with its chefs of Abruzzo, and particularly by tween the Adriatic Sea and the Apen- jelly), the “mazzarelle” (rolls of lamb offal the Chefs from Amatrice – who, since nines, reaching here their highest peaks wrapped in endive leaves), the “virtues” the sixteenth century, characterize the and then gently sloping down towards (a kind of vegetable soup) and a refined, Roman restaurants -, and by the chefs the sea with a wide hill range. Its four noble and extraordinary dish: the “scrip- from Villa Santa Maria, who invaded Parks make it the greenest region in It- pelle” (crepes), that can be “mbusse” the world and especially the courts of aly. Historically, Abruzzo has been part (in broth) or baked (the timbale). The the rulers of the Earth, proving that the of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies until shepherds customs have transmitted us cuisine of Abruzzo, typically poor, sim- the unification of Italy. It was the ob- dishes such as lamb “cace e ove” (with ple and genuine, in the hands of its lo- ligatory passage - to avoid the Pontine cheese and eggs), the sheep “alla cal- cal and expert chefs, can be considered a marshes - for traffic and exchanges be- lara” (boiled sheep), the typical “arrosti- refined cuisine for the most demanding tween North and South. Splendid testi- cini” (sheep skewers), “pecorino” (sheep) palates. Luckily, nowadays our chefs no monies of these transits of merchants and cheese, dried scamorza, caciocavallo and longer have to migrate elsewhere, but armies, but also of artists directed to Na- ricotta. But that’s not all. I would also they can remain in their land, waiting ples, are still present in rich cities, such like to mention the traditional desserts: for the right recognition - witnessed by as L’Aquila and Sulmona, and in small the soft nougats of L’Aquila, the confetti the proliferation of “stars” in Abruzzo - villages such as Pescocostanzo. This is of Sulmona, the “Parrozzo” and “Senza fully cultivating their traditions. A wit- just a preamble to explain the origins, Nome”, the Pan Ducale of Atri, the ness to the importance that, since ‘500, the peculiarities and the variety of the “sise” of the nuns (cream sponge paste) the conviviality plays in Abruzzo, is the Abruzzese cuisine. A kitchen of ancient of Guardiagrele, the “cicerchiata” (sweet final mention to the “Panarda” (from the tradition, simple, but complete and re- dough balls with honey), the “bocco- greek pan = all and Arabic burn = hot), fined at the same time, which combines notti” of Lanciano (shortcrust pastry the traditional and endless banquet, the the maritime cuisine of the coast, the filled with grape jam and chocolate), the great feast whose courses ranged from rural inlander cuisine and the mountain “ferratelle” or “nevole” (tasty waffles), the fifty to one hundred representing the typical cuisine of the so-called Altipiani “cagionetti” (fried panzarotti filled with entire cycle of the Abruzzese gastro- Maggiori (Major Highlands), the latter chestnut or chickpea cream). A special nomic culture, of the land and of the sea, linked to the historical phenomenon of mention goes to the world-famous pasta from the most humble to the most re- transhumance. The sea offers us fantas- factories of Fara San Martino and to the fined dishes… a real triumph of flavors! tic fish broth, frying of “papalina” (fried high-quality pasta factories throughout In this context, in 2009 the confrérie baby fish), fried “cianghette” (small fried the region. Among the liqueurs, we of the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs arrived in soles), stuffed calamari, “rusciulette” mention the traditional Aurum, Cen- Abruzzo, filling a serious gap. The “mis- with tomatoes sauce, “surgitti” with terbe and Ratafià, the bitters and gen- sion” of the 51st Grand Chapitre d’Italie clams, rigatoni with shrimp sauce and tians, while among the fine agricultural will be to introduce the local cuisine to many other typical dishes of the coast products, we mention the Navelli’s saf- the confrères coming from all over Italy from Alba Adriatica to Vasto. The fish fron, the Sulmona red garlic, the Santo and from all over the world. of the Adriatic Sea, because of its greater Stefano di Sessanio lentils, the Fucino Marco Forcella salinity, is then notoriously tastier. Form potatoes, the delicious peppers, the ever- Bailli Abruzzo Adriatico the rural tradition we have the “pasta present chilli pepper, the big and fleshy alla chitarra” (“guitar” pasta), the “sagne” tomatoes, the oil from the hills of Loreto (fresh whole grain pasta made without Aprutino, the liquorice of Atri, the truf- eggs), the” taiarilli “with beans, lentils fles, the figs, and many others. Finally, with chestnuts, pappardelle “alla papera we mention the wines of Abruzzo: the muta” (with duck breast), the saffron ri- classic Trebbiano, Cerasuolo and Mon- sotto, the “cardone” in broth, beans with tepulciano which have reached levels broccoli or potatoes or wild vegetables of excellence and numerous awards for such as “orapi” (mountain spinach), rab- years. Today the classic vineyards are bit, “ventricina” (cream of sausages and joined by new and excellent ones, like lard with pepper and chilli), the “fiadoni” Pecorino and Passerina. Over the centu- (baked panzarotti) and the cod, cooked ries, all these products have been trans- in various ways; in the Teramo area we formed into traditional dishes by the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs 2 Abruzzo «Fertile Land Of Wheat And Even More Fertile Of Grapes» Dearest Consoeurs, dear Con- where mankind also lived in an founder, Louis IX king of France, frères and friends of the Chaîne eternal spring, particularly thrill- canonized St. Louis of the French, des Rôtisseurs, ing for us, members of the Chaîne which we find - not by chance - it is always wonderful to meet us des Rôtisseurs. depicted in a fresco in the wonder- and share the joy and enthusiasm In fact, Ovidus imagined that at the ful Cathedral of Atri, the ancient that pervades our meetings. We time “the land, even if not plowed, town of Abruzzo called Hadria know that what binds us is not only was producing cereals, and the from the Romans. A few meters the promotion and appreciation of fields, without having to remain at from the Cathedral is the theater culinary art, but also that, in all the rest, were yellow with large spikes. where the Induction ceremony will cultures of the world, sharing the Rivers of milk and of nectar flowed; take place. Therefore, we can say meal has always been associated blond honey dripped down along our ceremony will be sponsored by with friendship and conviviality. the holm oak”. our founding Saint. First of all, let me warmly thank After all, this is the utopia of our With these beautiful premises, from our Confrère, Notary Marco For- Confraternity, with its 25,000 9 to 12 May 2019 we will celebrate cella, Bailli of Abruzzo Adriatico, members in 75 countries, a chain our Grand Chapitre, meeting each and all the Friends of Abruzzo for that keeps us happily united not other in a beautiful area, surrounded their generous hospitality on the only by the promotion of eno-gas- by the vineyards of Montepulciano occasion of the Grand Chapitre tronomic excellences, but also by to whom Ovid referred describing d’Abruzzo 2019. the values of hospitality, generosity the rivers of nectar that flowed into A special thanks also goes to Lawyer and of human solidarity that exist- the happy age of mankind. A happy Carlo Del Torto, Bailli of Abruzzo ed, according to the Ovidian myth, age that we will have the good for- Nord, for the valuable advice given in the happiest age of mankind. tune to relive together in four ex- by him in the organizational phase. Moreover, not by chance, still in traordinary days. In his presentation of the event, Abruzzo - in Villa Santa Maria Marco Forcella describes, with ex- (Chieti) - San Francesco Caracciolo Vive la Chaîne! ceptional expertise, the extraordi- was born; he died in 1608 at the age nary local gastronomic traditions. of 44, and in 1996 he was declared Roberto Zanghi For my part, I can therefore only patron of the cooks by the Holy Bailli Délégué d’Italie add some historical curiosity, the See. Although he was renowned for frame of the culinary painting de- its frugality (he fasted on bread and scribed by Marco. water for three days a week), it was As always, I start from the ancients: at the request of the Italian Chefs the lands of Abruzzo gave birth to Federation that San Francesco one of the greatest poets of all time, Caracciolo became their patron Ovid, who was born in Sulmona in saint, precisely for his generosity in 43 BC; his life ended exactly 2000 distributing food to the hungry. years ago. In 18 AD, Ovid describes A figure of a Saint therefore excep- his birthplace as a “fertile land of tionally significant and current for wheat and even more fertile of us, members of the Chaîne, which, grapes”. among our values, also include those Surely, this land has inspired Ovid of contributing to international aid to compose a representation of to provide food to the needy and to the mythical golden age - that, in promote the professionalism of the my opinion, is the most beautiful chefs in a spirit of conviviality and one -, where not only prosperity, brotherhood. justice and peace prospered, but In fact, this is the message of our Chaîne des Rôtisseurs 3 Why visiting Abruzzo, Italy’s “new” hot destination? Central Italy’s Abruzzo region is now on the verge of an international tourism boom.

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