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GOING WESTERN GRAPHIC BEAT BOLD PRINTS ARE CALYPSO ST. BARTH THE TREND IN MEN’S EMBARKS ON A MAJOR SWIMWEAR THIS PUSH INTO CALIFORNIA. SEASON. PAGE MW1 PAGE 2

SPLIT OVER BANGLADESH U.S. Brands Develop Own Safety Accord

By KRISTI ELLIS

WASHINGTON — There is no unity over Bangladesh. As even more European brands and retailers — along with a rare U.S. one, Abercrombie & Fitch — beat a midnight deadline and joined the Bangladesh THURSDAY, MAY 16, 2013 Q $3.00 Q WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY fire and safety accord with unions on Wednesday, the divisions grew among American companies over an WWD agreement on the issue. “We are committed to Bangladesh and support industry-wide efforts to improve safety standards. We believe this is the right thing to do to bring about sus- tainable, effective change,” said Kim Harr, director of sustainability at Abercrombie & Fitch. While A&F became only the second U.S. company to sign the IndustriALL Global Union-led agreement, other American firms outlined their own new initia- tive to address safety issues in the South Asian coun- try. Their proposal comes a day after Wal-Mart Stores Inc. revealed its own plan to address working condi- tions in Bangladesh. The “North American Bangladesh Worker Safety Working Group” on Wednesday unveiled the “Safer Factories Initiative” that will include short-, medium- and long-term strategic goals for making “meaningful improvements” to worker safety in Bangladesh. The initiative plans to establish a sustainable funding mechanism for training, upgrades of factory struc- tures and ensuring the safety of new construction. Unlike the IndustriALL accord, the new U.S. plan by American retailers and brands and six U.S. and Canadian industry associations is not legally bind- ing and no companies have signed it. Six industry associations, representing hundreds of retailers and brands, comprise the working group. They include the National Federation, Retail Industry Leaders Association, American Apparel & Association, U.S. Association of Importers of Textiles and Apparel, Retail Council of Canada and the SEE PAGE 6

Macy’s Bucks Headwinds

By DAVID MOIN

THE “CORE” CUSTOMER made the quarter for Polo Macy’s Inc. While Bloomingdale’s shoppers and budget-con- scious Macy’s customers held back their spending, Macy’s Inc. said Wednesday that business overall was strong, and that net income rose 19.9 percent in the first quarter amid a 3.8 percent rise in comp-store sales. Prince Net income reached $217 million, or 55 cents a di- Prince Harry wound up his U.S. tour in the bucolic luted share, from $181 million, or 43 cents. Net sales increased 4 percent to $6.39 billion from $6.14 billion. environs of Greenwich, Conn., doing what princes “I was in six different cities in the last three weeks do — playing polo and sitting between two beautiful with my executive team visiting stores and it’s all just women, Karolina Kurkova and , coming together, even when you’ve got headwinds,” Terry J. Lundgren, Macy’s Inc. chairman, president at lunch. There was a serious purpose, though: to and chief executive officer, told WWD. “I just think play in the Sentebale Royal Salute Polo Cup, named our strategies are driving our business,” Lundgren after the prince’s children’s aid charity in Lesotho. said, referring to the My Macy’s field organization for localizing assortments; omnichannel initiatives He won the crowd — and the match. For more on including Web site upgrades and fulfilling orders by the event, see pages 4 and 5. shipping products from stores, and the Magic Selling program geared to improve the skills of sales asso- ciates. Macy’s has racked up 13 straight quarters of comp-store gains of at least 3 percent. Lundgren did acknowledge that the Bloomingdale’s division was on “the softer side” in the first quar- ter even as high-end businesses have mostly been performing well. “Today you could argue those deep in the equity market have to be feeling pret- ty good. There have been lots of highs every day,” PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER Lundgren noted. “Having said that, a lot of people

X SEE PAGE 3

ZDDLQGG 30 2 WWD THURSDAY, MAY 16, 2013

Dillard’s Net Rises on Flat Sales THE BRIEFING BOX were unchanged at $1.55 billion ries, and junior and By ARNOLD J. KARR for both periods but rose 1 percent children’s apparel, and weakest IN TODAY’S WWD on a same-store sales basis on in home and furniture classifica- DILLARD’S INC. employed mod- of a 5 percent improvement in the tions. Sales were strongest in the est expense reduction to squeeze first quarter of 2012. central region, covering states higher profits out of flat sales in A 2 percent reduction in cost from Texas to Montana. A look from Just the first quarter. of sales, to $937.8 million, allowed Among the special items re- Cavalli’s 2014 resort The Little Rock, Ark.-based the company to boost gross mar- ported for the quarter was a collection. For more, department store group reported gin to 41 percent of revenues from pretax gain of $11.8 million, see WWD.com. that in the three months ended 39.7 percent in the prior-year pe- translating into a 16-cent-a-share May 4, net income expanded 23.4 riod. A 0.8 percent cut in selling, aftertax benefit, from the compa- percent to $117.2 million, or $2.50 general and administrative costs ny’s sale of its stake in Acumen a diluted share, from $95 mil- helped operating income advance Brands, a Fayetteville, Ark.- lion, or $1.89, in the 2011 quarter. 22.5 percent to $180.2 million. based e-commerce firm. Adjusting for special items, earn- “We are reporting a strong The company completed the ings per share for the quarter was start to 2013 in spite of unseason- quarter with 283 department $2.40, 31 cents above the $2.09 ably cool weather,” said William store locations and 18 outlet expected, on average, by the two Dillard 2nd, chief executive of- stores spanning 29 states. During analysts who supply estimates. ficer. “Positive comparable-store the just-completed three months, Revenues rose 0.2 percent to sales and gross margin expansion it closed a 94,000-square-foot $1.589 billion from $1.586 billion combined with good expense unit in the Cache Valley Mall in PHOTO BY GIOVANNA PAVESI PAVESI GIOVANNA BY PHOTO in the prior-year period, with control led to another quarter of Logan, Utah. During the current the more recent figure falling record profitability for Dillard’s.” second quarter, it plans to close short of estimates of $1.61 billion. The company said sales were its 60,000-square-foot Randolph As even more European brands and retailers joined the Excluding nonretail revenue, sales strongest in women’s accesso- Mall location in Asheboro, N.C. Bangladesh fire and safety accord, the U.S. industry outlined its own initiative to address safety issues in the country. PAGE 1

Macy’s Inc. said Wednesday that business overall was strong, and that net income rose 19.9 percent in the first Calypso St. Barth Expands Out West quarter amid a 3.8 percent rise in comp-store sales. PAGE 1

By RACHEL BROWN Macy’s will strike a patriotic chord on May 15 when it kicks off “American Icons,” a promotion running through the Fourth LOS ANGELES — Calypso St. of July touching all 800 of its stores and macys.com. PAGE 3

Barth is in a California state of E G mind. Carolina Herrera is making a concerted push into Asia with Over the last two months the brand has expanded in Northern CH Carolina Herrera, her secondary line. PAGE 3 ER/WIREIMA California by opening stores at P the Stanford Shopping Center Prince Harry’s week-long goodwill photo op swing through

in Palo Alto and Santana Row the United States took him to the Greenwich Polo Club on RISHA LEE RISHA in San Jose, and now it is head- T Wednesday for a charity polo match. PAGE 4 ing to Southern California, Looks from Calypso St. Barth.

where stores are due to open BY HOTO CBS president and chief executive officer Les Moonves at Westfield Century City in P played things pretty straight during the network’s upfront Los Angeles in July and later key to Calypso St. Barth’s success. ers. Accessories and apparel are Wednesday. PAGE 7 this summer in Malibu and “The goal·· is to really embed priced mostly from $200 to $850. Montecito. The retail expansion ourselves in these neighborhoods “We really try to show her a full Jeff Gennette, chief merchandising officer of Macy’s Inc., in California is part of a larger and ingratiate ourselves to those expression of a look over and over will be honored on Monday at Ronald McDonald House New domestic store push that will consumers, and hopefully we will again in the store. The sales asso- York’s annual gala. PAGE 7 take Calypso from 39 units now to gain them as great fans,” she said, ciates need to complete the pic- 45 by the end of the year. adding, “Every single sales asso- ture for her. Our customers really Andrew Marc has snagged Richard Chai to serve as its new The brand is choosy when it ciate has a client book. We ask want that. It is not an item busi- creative design consultant. PAGE MW1 comes to retail real estate, ac- her [the client] how she wants us ness,” said DiRienzo-Smith. “She cording to president Stefanie to communicate, and we text, we has told us that in so many ways. Incorporating advanced fabrics, trendy prints and premium DiRienzo-Smith. It prefers life- e-mail, we call, we set up a ton When we don’t have the jewelry, details, indie brands are targeting contemporary customers style centers or streets for its of one-on-one appointments. We we hear it from her. If you don’t stores. The company looks for don’t rely on a lot of external fac- have that third piece, the cash- who have made bathing ripe for reinvention. PAGE MW3 locales it believes have a strong tors. It’s sort of a lost art, but it is mere , we hear it.” concentration of potential cus- something that sets us apart.” Calypso St. Barth has six life- Pitti Uomo, faced with continued economic struggles in tomers, often evidenced by style stores incorporat- Europe, is building on its strong relationship with international zip codes responsible for a ing the home category department stores. PAGE MW4 raft of e-commerce orders and two home-specific or the brick-and-mortar We really try to show stores. For the most part, ON WWD.COM purchases of customers DiRienzo-Smith said, ex- RUNWAY: See the latest resort 2014 collections, including when they travel to a city pansion will come from with an existing Calypso St. [the customer] a full accessories and apparel Akris, Just Cavalli and Moschino Cheap & Chic, at WWD.com. Barth store. Stores range stores, but the brand will primarily from 2,000 to expression of a look over evaluate lifestyle op- CORRECTION 4,000 square feet. portunities on a case-by- “Jim’s properties are good and over again in the store. case basis. “With some Kay Koplovitz stepped down as chairman of Fifth & Pacific examples of what we love,” real estate and in some Cos. Inc. but will remain on the company’s board. The said DiRienzo-Smith, refer- — STEFANIE DIRIENZO-SMITH, areas, it is obvious that “ Scoop” item on page 11, Wednesday, did not reflect ring to the shopping centers home would do well, you the fact that she will remain a board member. owned by Jim Rosenfield’s CALYPSO ST. BARTH can tell. There are other company JS Rosenfield & places that you know TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS Co., including the Brentwood In its stores, which are mer- it is just about apparel and ac- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. Country Mart and Marin Country chandised by color, Calypso cessories,” she said. Citing one COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Mart, which both house Calypso St. Barth has been increasing example, she continued, “Marin VOLUME 205, NO. 102. THURSDAY, MAY 16, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two St. Barth stores. “They are places the presence of its own brand. [County] was one of those places additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance where a customer can come and Outside of accessories and bot- that they wanted home.” Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, get a lot of things done, not just toms, the brand accounts for 70 to Solera Capital LLC-owned Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, shop in an apparel store. Being 80 percent of the assortment cov- Calypso St. Barth’s current retail and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver in a lifestyle center or outdoors ering everything from cashmere focus is the U.S. After this year, Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North on a main street is so much more to caftans. Its broad merchan- though, DiRienzo-Smith indi- Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. our brand than being behind dise reach leaves few desired cated the brand could start think- Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or doors in a mall.” categories untouched, although ing more seriously about putting inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine As Calypso St. Barth stretches DiRienzo-Smith did mention that stores abroad. “There are a lot of is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. across the U.S., DiRienzo-Smith further development of·· the home overseas opportunities for us, for You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt said, its customer differs little. fragrance and scent category sure,” she said. Two years ago, of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request However, she acknowledged would be welcome. “We are doing DiRienzo-Smith told WWD an- for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at brand awareness does, and the so much right now, but that is one nual sales for the brand would hit www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that relatively unknown Calypso St. category that the customer loves $60 million. She declined to elabo- we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at Barth has to work hard to attract from us, and we could offer new- rate on the brand’s sales this year P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED people to its stores, where she is ness there,” she said. or on its same-store sales results. ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER adamant they will turn into brand The wide-ranging selection is “As you can see, we are growing,” UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR loyalists. DiRienzo-Smith empha- essential to Calypso St. Barth’s said DiRienzo-Smith. “Things are DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A sized “old-school” clienteling is strategy to fully outfit its custom- going quite well right now.” SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

ZDELQGG 30 WWD THURSDAY, MAY 16, 2013 3 WWD.COM Macy’s Income Up 19.9 Percent in Quarter {Continued from page one} chandise areas were , capability to product-search other have pulled out of the market , active apparel, men’s, stores to better meet customer de- and are sitting on the sidelines, home textiles, luggage, furniture, mands and raise revenue. and people are feeling the effect mattresses and private brands gen- While there were some pockets of higher income taxes. Statistics erally. Cosmetics and had a of weakness, Hoguet suggested say a significant amount of people good quarter but were not as strong. there are no worries over invento- have pulled out of the market be- In women’s apparel, , ries. “On any given day there are lieving it’s too risky and are put- denim, Impulse contemporary pockets of [excess] inventory, but ting money elsewhere,” such as sportswear, athletic apparel and there are no big pockets or major ERRERA in real estate and remodelings, private brands did well. Special liabilities as we go into the sec- H Lundgren said. sizes and structured were ond quarter.” On top of that, “The weather has weak, and athletic footwear was She also addressed some just not cooperated with the type of hampered by the transition to a emerging strategies, includ- apparel we typically sell this time licensed format with The Finish ing licensing arrangements and OH FOR CAROLINA CAROLINA FOR OH of year,” Lundgren added. Line Inc., which this season began Bloomingdale’s outlets. Macy’s B Macy’s customers have a house- opening shops-in-shop inside could sign additional license hold income of $75,000 on aver- many Macy’s locations. Finish deals “where we don’t think we Carolina Herrera and Caroline Brown age, though the range is wide. Line becomes the exclusive part- can get the best product for our at the new boutique in .

According to Lundgren, those mak- ner for men’s, women’s and kids customers,” Hoguet said. “But JOEL BY PHOTO ing around $35,000 or $40,000 are athletic footwear, and Macy’s will I don’t see it becoming a huge “really feeling the challenges” as- be the exclusive host for Finish part of the business.” With the sociated with higher payroll taxes Line-branded in-store shops. Bloomingdale’s outlets, “We are Carolina Herrera Puts and rising gas and food prices. Hoguet also cited Macy’s strong trying to refine the formula before “That impacts Macy’s on occasion- cash flow, with net cash from op- we roll it out more aggressively.” al big sales days,” Lundgren said. erations at $298 million last quar- There are currently 12 outlets. Renewed Focus on Asia During a conference call, some ter, versus $265 million in the first She talked up radio frequency retail analysts expressed concern quarter of 2012. The extra cash en- identification as key to accurate BY KRISTIANO ANG about high-end Bloomingdale’s abled Macy’s to increase the quar- replenishing and locating prod- customers and budget-minded Ma- terly common stock dividend by 25 ucts in stores, particularly with SINGAPORE — When Carolina Herrera first came to cy’s shoppers, but Karen Hoguet, percent to 25 cents, and approve shoes, which can be “a cumber- Asia, Ronald Reagan was in the White House and Japan chief financial officer of the $27.7 a $1.5 billion increase in its share some task” otherwise. By late sum- was slated to become the world’s number-one economy. billion, 840-unit Macy’s Inc., re- buyback program, bringing the re- mer, all Macy’s stores will have Since then, labels bearing the Herrera name have plied, “The truth is you should maining authorization outstanding RFID capability. grown to be sold in 107 countries. In Asia, her presence really be focusing on the overall to $2.6 billion. The company stuck Hoguet briefly addressed the has been largely restricted to fragrances, bridalwear and a strength of the Macy’s business. to its forecast for 2013, projecting competition. Performances for the small selection of ready-to-wear at department stores like The core of the business remained a 3.5 percent comp gain and $3.90 past year have been weaker at J.C. Hong Kong’s Harvey Nichols. quite strong….Every day we see to $3.95 profit per share. Penney Co. Inc. and Kohl’s Corp., Now the designer is making a concerted push into warm weather, the business gets On the omnichannel front, but Hoguet downplayed the impact. the region with CH Carolina Herrera, her secondary stronger,” particularly in such Hoguet said, by the end of the “People tend to think we compete line. Last fall the label opened its first Asian boutique in areas as apparel and . year, 500 Macy stores will be ful- more directly than we do. It varies , followed this spring by a 4,300-square-foot, three- Hoguet said the strongest mer- filling orders. Stores also have the greatly by family of business.” story store in Tokyo’s Ginza district and a smaller space in Singapore’s Marina Bay Sands casino resort. Openings in Shanghai and Kuala Lumpur, the Malaysian commercial capital, are slated for this fall. “Some properties are wholly owned and others are Macy’s Kicks Off American Icons Campaign [run] with local partners due to nuances of culture,” said MACY’S HAS ratcheted its patrio- the best designers in the world — Alves, face of Macy’s INC label, who Caroline Brown, president of Carolina Herrera. She de- tism up a notch. the American designers,” he said. stopped by the Stella party and re- clined to give more details of partnership agreements. The department store, whose But the campaign also includes luctantly joined Lundgren at the “We’ve already done all the other places and we are name has become synonymous with a charity component. Macy’s has mic, as well as Tracy Morgan, who ready, so why not?” said Herrera of the move into Asia. the Fourth of July and Thanksgiving teamed up with Got Your Six, an hosted the event at Gotham Hall. Dressed in her signature white and an orange thanks to its nationally tele- organization that helps veterans Morgan said that his father was from a botanically themed, past-season collection, the de- vised fireworks and parades, on and military families be perceived drafted into Vietnam as a teenager signer was here Wednesday for the Audi Fashion Festival, Wednesday kicked off its American as leaders and civic assets. “It’s a and served as a helicopter gunner in which would open with a showcase of the fall collections Icons marketing campaign of CH Carolina Herrera and Carolina Herrera New York. designed to celebrate “the Herrera’s move into Asia had been long planned, but it Camila people, places and things comes as the region’s consumers are cutting back. In South Alves we love.” Korea, private consumption dropped by 0.3 percent in the From apple pie, base- first quarter of 2013, while retail sales in China increased ball and drive-ins to by 12.4 percent, down from 14.8 percent year-on-year, gov- Mount Rushmore and the ernment statistics show. Singapore’s economy contracted Apollo theater, the store by 0.6 percent in the same period, though Herrera gave it a is saluting things that little boost with a trip to the city-state’s Little India neigh- “make us proud to live in borhood to purchase tunics and costume jewelry. the land of the free and The company also faces competition in the form of com- the home of the brave.” petitors at similar price points that are better established On Tuesday night, the in emerging markets. “It’s saturated,” said Herrera of the retailer hosted an elabo- large number of Western brands that have set up shop in rate kickoff party for China in the past five years. “Maybe there are too many.” the promotion at its new Tom Murry, chief Brown said that the novelty factor of an internationally Stella 34 Trattoria in the Terry J. Lundgren executive officer known brand entering a new market, and CH Carolina Herald Square flagship, and Sheryl Crow of Calvin Klein. Herrera’s wide selection of goods — it includes accesso- ries, men’s, women’s and children’s wear — would help. the war. But he had “rocks thrown “It’s a huge commitment to buy [rtw], so they can enter at him” when he got home. This ex- with accessories first,” she said. perience prompted the comedian Customers shopping at CH Carolina Herrera’s Asian out- to get involved in the Got Your Six posts can expect product selection to be consistent with the campaign. “Now Macy’s is step- brand’s Western shops, meaning that the label will roll out ping up,” he said. “They have 800 its fall collection even in the perennially humid climes of stores so that [is] incredible reach. Singapore and Malaysia. Everybody shops at Macy’s, even “There is no season anymore,” said Herrera, who noted HNER C

I me — I bought this there,” he that wool crepes and cashmere used in the Forties-inspired E said, doing a little twirl. collection that hits stores in July were lighter than ever be- TEVE TEVE

S The evening included a short fore. “It is better to for summer in winter and for win- Actress Alison Sweeney and fashion show from designers and ter in summer because of heating and air conditioning.” Chris Marvin, managing brands including Tommy Hilfiger, There are little nods to local tastes in the form of in- Tracy Morgan director of Got Your Six.

PHOTOS BY BY PHOTOS Levi’s, Marilyn Monroe, Denim & terior architecture — the Seoul store features oriental- Supply Ralph Lauren and Michael style wooden latticework — and capsule collections. For followed by a fashion show and great organization that helps vet- Kors. But the highlight of the eve- Singapore, Herrera released a limited-edition series of concert by singer Sheryl Crow at erans reacclimate to civilian life,” ning was the performance by Crow, linen bags hand-embroidered with images of orchids, Gotham Hall in New York. he said. “We’re determined to help which included some of her biggest Singapore’s national flower. All 20 pieces, priced at up- Terry J. Lundgren, chairman, them raise several million dollars.” hits, such as “Soak up the Sun” and wards of 2,375 Singapore dollars, or $1,935 at current ex- president and chief executive of- Macy’s is hoping to raise $3 mil- “All I Wanna Do,” as well as her lat- change, have sold out. ficer of Macy’s Inc., called the lion by encouraging customers to est country release “Easy.” Poured But can the brand, known for its elegant, pared-back Stella portion “a pre-event to the donate $3 to the cause and receive into a pair of tight leather pants, aesthetics, cater to logo-obsessed Chinese consumers? event” and a way to thank its ven- 15 to 20 percent off on any day the 51-year-old switched effortless- “I have a lot of bling,” insisted Herrera. “The evening dors for embracing the campaign. they choose through June 9. ly between guitar and bass with just collections are elaborate and glamorous, though I like In addition to classic Americana, Among the celebrities on hand to two backup musicians. daytime to be more simple. We women…maybe one min- Macy’s is celebrating “[some of] help Macy’s celebrate were Camila — JEAN E. PALMIERI ute we want logos and the next we don’t.“

ZDDLQGG 30 4 WWD THURSDAY, MAY 16, 2013

Prince Harry and his team celebrate their win. eye

Stephanie Seymour Polo Diplomacy PRINCE HARRY’S week-long goodwill tour of the U.S. took him from a military Paralympics event in Colorado to Capitol Hill to a baseball date in Harlem to a tour of the Hurricane Sandy- ravaged Shore with Gov. Chris Christie. It came to a close on Wednesday in tonier climes with a luncheon seat between Karolina Kurkova and Stephanie Seymour under a large white tent on the kempt lawn of the Greenwich Polo Club. The prince had trekked to the upper crust Connecticut enclave for a charity polo match, dubbed the Sentebale Royal Salute Polo Cup after his children’s aid charity in the African kingdom of Lesotho. A crowd of about 400, which seemed much smaller cast against the open expanse of a 300-yard polo field, made the midweek trip to the Town & Country-sponsored match, snaking through security checkpoints and past a cluster of satellite trucks and their TV crews. Attendees did all they could to don their springtime best despite gray skies and early afternoon showers. Before lunch, the bar tent was a sardine tin of floral prints, fancy , khaki slacks and blue . The Sentebale team in blue and St. Regis team in black. Jason Wu, Jessica Stam and Johan Lindeberg were among those dotting the crowd in the larger lunch tent. International polo standard-bearer Nacho Figueras arrived with an entourage that included his wife, Delfina Blaquier, their four-month-old daughter, Jason Wu Alba, and Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti. Kurkova allowed that she had worn a dress with blue accents at the prince’s request. His team would be wearing blue kits; she was presenting the winner’s trophy at the day’s end, and he wanted some extra luck. “I’m here to see Prince Harry,” said Wu, summing up the general sentiment of the lunch crowd. “When they say Prince Harry’s playing polo, you go.…And also, you know, it’s Wednesday and I get to play hooky.” The 28-year-old prince arrived at exactly 1 p.m., causing a few partygoers to break an edict against camera phone shots in the tent. He wore dark blue flat front pants, a white dress , navy sport and no tie. Standing stage left during remarks by Greenwich Polo Club founder Peter Brant, Harry shifted from one foot to the next until it was his turn at the lectern. “This is the last day of my tour around the United States,” the prince said over an ambient wash of camera shutters. “Thank you for a wonderful week. I’ve witnessed the extraordinary generosity of the people of this great nation.” Following lunch and a few last sprinkles of rain, guests moved to the field and grandstands for the match, which ended in a 4-3 victory for Harry’s Sentebale squad against Figueras’ St. Regis team. The prince himself scored the game winner with 2:13 to go, though the field announcer had initially credited one of his teammates. Figueras rode his mount directly towards the grandstand before play could resume. “That was Harry’s goal!” he clarified. “So Prince Harry will get credit for that goal,” the announcer said over the PA system, giving HRH one last

PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER STEVE BY PHOTOS American parting gift. — MATTHEW LYNCH

ZD  DLQGG 30 WWD THURSDAY, MAY 16, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Peter Brant 2nd Jessica Stam

Peter Brant

Karolina Kurkova in Carolina Herrera with Valentino.

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE Polo Diplomacy WWD.com/eye.

Giancarlo Giammetti

Olivia Palermo

Camera crews covering the match.

Nacho Figueras and Delfina Blaquier with daughter Alba.

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Splits Develop Over Bangladesh Safety Plans {Continued from page one} influence decisions already made. The Apparel, said she does not believe the ply chain. Topshop’s purchases from Canadian Apparel Federation. train moves on and these companies will new U.S. initiative competes with the Bangladesh are less than 25,000 pounds,

The tension between the groups behind drive the process. There can be no un- IndustriALL-led binding accord that 25 or $29,430 at current exchange, to date the two accords escalated on Wednesday, committed passengers because the stakes mainly European brands and retailers this year. with a war of words developing. are too high.” have signed. On Wednesday, Arcadia of “However, in order to show support Matthew Shay, president and chief In a similar vein, UNI Global Union the U.K., the parent of chains such as for the initiative that this accord is pro- executive officer of the NRF, made a General Secretary Philip Jennings said, Topshop, was the latest to sign the agree- posing to undertake, we as a group will scathing statement criticizing the bind- “This accord is a turning point. We are ment, bringing the number of companies be signing up,” Arcadia said. “This will ing IndustriALL·· accord, saying it “veers putting in place rules that mark the end that signed the binding and enforceable be done on the condition that we under- away from common sense solutions and of the race to the bottom in the global pact to 25 by Wednesday afternoon. stand the final costs to us, which to date seeks to advance a narrow agenda driven supply chain.” “What we have done is consolidate has not been made clear. As with any by special interests.” But the retail unions’ group- and focus on a single effort,” Hughes other commercial contract we sign, we “Retailers are committed to a plan of ings chief was critical of major compa- said of the U.S. proposal. “That will reserve the right to review our partici- action that is both workable and sustain- nies that opted not to join the accord. make a big difference in working condi- pation if the accord does not achieve its able,” Shay said. “The IndustriALL plan “Wal-Mart, the world’s largest retailer, tions in Bangladesh because we have a stated aims within an agreed time scale.” isn’t a plan at all. It gives no clear path is out of step. By not signing up, the Wal- consensus and commitment to the new In Washington, Bangladesh Foreign to practical and immediate solutions to Mart brand sinks to a new low. Equally, initiative. I don’t see it as divisive from Minister Dipu Moni met with Kevin the challenges facing the Bangladeshi Gap’s refusal to join is a mistake that what the IndustriALL folks have done. Burke, president and chief executive of- garment industry. It seeks major funding shoppers will not forget. We will make It is a slightly different approach that ficer of the AAFA and Obama administra- by private business without providing progress without them,” Jennings said. intersects with what we are doing and tion officials. accountability for how funds are spent, In outlining its proposal, the work- we will move closer together with these “We feel it is important that factories as well as binding retailers to specific ing group of U.S. companies said, “The best practices. there are safe and workers are safe and resourcing requirements without taking recent accidents at apparel production “From my perspective, this will be a there is a record that factory owners

binding commitment and 95 percent of are complying with the standards set by what the Safe Factories Initiative is fo- their government,” Burke said, noting cused on overlaps with what the accord that AAFA has a long-standing relation- by IndustriALL looks like. But there ship with Bangladesh, and has conducted Wal-Mart, the world’s largest retailer, were some key areas where we couldn’t education programs on fire safety there. develop a consensus,” Hughes added. “What I stressed with Minister Moni

“At the end of the day for associations, is the Bangladesh government needs to is out of step. By not signing up, the we think this will be a more successful be open to our industry on what they are initiative if it has the broadest consensus doing and how they are going through the Wal-Mart brand sinks to a new low. and all companies join together, versus process of shutting down factories that an agreement that is only focused on the deserve to be shut down,” Burke said. “If largest producers and top-tier suppliers. they have building codes that are being Equally, Gap’s refusal to join is a ·· I think the two initiatives complement violated, they need to address those each other because they broaden the net building codes.” mistake that shoppers will not forget. of companies that are going to step up Burke said he also stressed the im- and make a public commitment to sup- portance of having an open, two-way con- — PHILIP JENNINGS, UNI GLOBAL UNION port more action in Bangladesh.” structive dialogue between brands and The IndustriALL agreement with retailers and the Bangladesh government. labor unions requires that companies “It’s very clear to me that the govern- mandate and pay for renovation and re- ment of Bangladesh is very serious about pairs to ensure factories in Bangladesh making changes,” he said. “This [the col- into account the impracticality of such a facilities in Bangladesh are heartbreak- are made safe. The pact is a legally en- lapse of the Rana Plaza building that requirement. And it exposes American ing and have strengthened our resolve forceable contract between companies killed 1,127 people] was an unfortunate companies to a legally questionable bind- to find practical and sustainable solu- and unions that will use binding arbi- tipping point with the loss of lives. We ing arbitration provision, a process that tions to ensure the safety of garment tration to resolve disputes. It stipulates do not want to see any more loss of life serves only the unions, not the workers production facilities and workers in that companies will agree to indepen- in Bangladesh. Period. We are looking at they represent.” Bangladesh and the viability of the dent safety inspections with public re- this as a collaborative effort to make cer- Judy Gearhart, executive director at the Bangladesh garment industry as a sus- International Labor Rights Forum, said tainable manufacturer and supplier to Shay’s comments were “misdirected.” markets around the world.” “The trade unions and labor rights As part of the short-term objectives We do not want to see any more groups and NGOs are very much united of the initiative, the industry group said in this idea that we can’t continue with it plans to build on worker·· and safety loss of life in Bangladesh. Period. voluntary programs especially when it education and training for fire preven- comes to worker lives,” Gearhart said. tion and workplace safety. The group “I find it interesting they [NRF] are im- said its initiative will also give more We are looking at this as a plying in their language here that this is power to workers. all about the interests of unions and not “The initiative will specifically em- collaborative effort to make certain it about the interests of workers.” power workers to be cognizant of work- Gearhart fired back, asking the NRF place safety concerns and equip workers rhetorically, “And your interest is about to respond swiftly and appropriately to doesn’t ever happen again. the workers and not about the bottom safety concerns. In order to maximize the line? Is that what you are saying? I think impact of this initiative, buyers will de- — KEVIN BURKE, AAFA to put unions down as not being con- velop mechanisms to share information cerned about workers is misplaced.” on trainings to ensure that the training Gearhart said she believes there are can reach the most number of workers two reasons few U.S. companies have and factories possible,” the group said. ports; mandatory repairs and renova- tain it doesn’t ever happen again.” signed the binding accord. The Safer Factories Initiative re- tions ensuring factories have the money Burke said the working group is seek- “I think there is a whole overstated peats many of the objectives laid out in to pay for all repairs, renovations and ing a long-term solution in Bangladesh. analysis of the [legal] liability and I the National Tripartite Plan of Action retrofitting by raising prices or paying “One of the things our working group think Gap has played a leadership role between government, owners and for renovations directly; require fac- came up with is this safe factory initia- and they have dug in on this,” she said. workers in Bangladesh brokered by tory owners that are considered top-tier tive, which includes short-term, medium- “The other piece is that American com- the International Labor Organization suppliers to a brand or retailer to allow term and long-term strategic goals. We panies do not have the same history as in March. The U.S. plan calls for buy- union representatives to have regular are not going to fix the problems today.” European companies of valuing trade ers to work in conjunction with the access to their factories, and terminate Officials from the U.S. Trade union partners.…The NRF says it will Bangladeshi government, factory owners business with any factory that refuses to Representative’s office also met with the work with the government, brands and and workers to develop and implement make necessary safety upgrades. It also visiting delegation from Bangladesh to industry stakeholders, but that flies in an industry standard on fire and building requires “a vital role” for workers and continue discussing issues arising out of the face of the whole concept of working safety and conduct assessments of all fac- their unions, requiring the establish- the ongoing review·· of worker rights and in a tripartite manner in order to ensure tories based on the standards. ment of health and safety committees in safety concerns under the Generalized workers’ rights and welfare.” “Despite the best efforts of brands all covered factories, with worker repre- System of Preferences, a USTR spokes- As the deadline to join the and retailers who routinely audit facto- sentatives making up at least 50 percent woman said. IndustriALL Global Union-led accord ries for a variety of compliance needs, of the membership. “The Bangladeshi delegation briefed passed, general secretary Jyrki Raina ap- and more recent efforts by many compa- The signatory companies are required USTR and an interagency U.S. team on plauded the more than 30 companies that nies to conduct assessments focused on to develop a full implementation plan developments pertinent to the review, had signed on. building and fire safety, much more work within 30 to 45 days. including measures that the government But he also said, “We will not close remains to be done,” the working group Arcadia, in revealing it had signed the and other stakeholders have announced the door on brands who want to join the said. “Further, efforts to conduct these accord, said, “As a large clothing retailer, in recent weeks following the Rana Plaza accord after the deadline but we will be assessments have been hampered by lack we were deeply saddened by the recent tragedy,” the spokeswoman said. “The in- forging ahead with the implementation of a clear industry standard for fire and events in Bangladesh, and our thoughts formation provided by the Bangladeshi plan from today.” building safety.” are with all of those affected.” delegation will be taken into account as He stressed that “those who want Julia Hughes, president of the U.S. It noted that Bangladesh represents the administration considers the next to join later will not be in a position to Association of Importers of Textiles and a small percentage of its total sup- steps in the GSP review.”

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joined the payroll — his show “Under the Dome” is one of five FASHION SCOOPS MEMO PAD new ones that have been added to the roster. Resort 2014 THE STARS ADDRESS: In a navy blue Meanwhile, NBC also had reason GENNETTE TO BE HONORED: Jeff Gennette, STEPPING UP: Sallie Scripter has been named business reflexively clasping to celebrate Wednesday, having lined chief merchandising officer of Macy’s Inc., president of footwear boutique brands his hands, CBS president and chief up Pharrell Williams as the first of three has a feeling for McDonald’s. Not so much at The Jones Group Inc., a new post. She executive officer Les Moonves played mentors for its new reality show the cuisine; more the legacy of Ray Kroc, succeeds Roberto Zamarra. things pretty straight during the “Styled to Rock,” which will give 12 who built McDonald’s into a fast-food She will be responsible for the network’s upfront Wednesday. But up-and-comers the chance to dress empire, and the Ronald McDonald House. strategy, execution and development of he couldn’t resist the occasional A-listers. — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG “I actually grew up in San Diego where the the wholesale boutique footwear brands dig. Moonves said, unlike its Krocs lived. They were the patron saints. including B Brian Atwood, Rachel Roy, competitors, CBS believes “great VIDEO COMMERCE: Online videos When you lived in San Diego, you knew Rachel Rachel Roy, Enzo Angiolini, drama belongs between 8 p.m. and could get a lot more lucrative. about the Krocs,” he said. Boutique 9 and Joan & David. She reports 11 p.m. and not at seven in the At least that’s the goal of The On Monday, Gennette gets honored to Kathy Nedorostek, group president of morning or 11:30 at night,” before Mad Video Inc., a new platform at Ronald McDonald House New York’s global footwear and accessories. checking himself. “Sorry, I had to enabling users to identify brands’ annual gala, at the Waldorf-Astoria, for Most recently Scripter was a senior have a little fun.” merchandise within online videos. his efforts helping the cause. Ronald consultant for the Tabitha Simmons He was less lighthearted in On Mad Video’s Web site, users enter McDonald House New York provides a wholesale footwear brand. Before extolling CBS News before traipsing the URL of a YouTube video and “home-away-from-home” for pediatric that, she spent 12 years at out CBS Evening News’ Scott Pelley and tag the people, places or products cancer patients and their families. International in various positions CBS This Morning’s Norah O’Donnell. in the video. The general public The house accommodates 84 families including senior vice president/general Even David Letterman got in on the love can access Mad Video, but its chief and gets filled almost every night. manager of women’s and men’s ready- fest, hugging Moonves for a good 20 executive officer Koldo Garcia and Gennette was introduced to the House to-wear. She has also been president of seconds or so. “What’s the matter? chief operating officer Riley Maguire two-and- a-half years ago by Tina Lundgren, Patrick Robinson. — LISA LOCKWOOD Trouble at home?” the comedian envision brands and bloggers trying who is on the board of Ronald McDonald asked the red-faced executive. to generate revenues from affiliate House New York. She’s the wife of Terry J. YES, WE CANNES: had not yet “Everyone backstage is very excited. marketing as the primary audience Lundgren, chairman, president and chief completely emptied of actresses on They think I’m Bob Schieffer.” for the platform. Mad Video will executive officer of Macy’s Inc., a major Tuesday night, on the eve of the Cannes Before exiting the stage, the late- also launch a professional version supporter of Ronald McDonald House in Film Festival. And so Reed Krakoff, who night host said of Moonves, “Doesn’t offering brands customizable tags Manhattan and other cities. “Jeff really swept into town to launch his latest he look great after the gastric lap and advanced metrics. connected with the families who are photography book at Colette, greeted band surgery?” “If they want to include prices struggling to maintain normalcy. He kind the likes of Kristin Scott Thomas and Audrey What CBS really did have an or even include a checkout in the of felt that calling to make a difference,” Marnay as waiters circulated proffering abundance of Wednesday was TV video itself, that could all be done,” said Tina Lundgren. For Monday’s gala, Champagne and coconut water. personalities. Guests merely had to said Maguire. “We are going to be she expects a record attendance and a Scott Thomas is on her way to the swivel their heads to see Toni Collette, charging for volume as well. A free take of upward of $5 million. “I think we festival for the premiere of “Only God Anna Faris, Will Arnett, Mark Harmon, version would include a certain are going to be at maximum capacity, Forgives,” a violent drama in which she Lucy Liu, Chris O’Donnell, LL Cool J, Sarah number of videos per month.” probably 2,000 people,” she said. Joseph plays a stern, potty-mouthed gangster mom Michele Gellar, Dylan McDermott and In a test with Spanish retailer DiMenna, managing director of Zweig- opposite Ryan Gosling. scores of other actors. Most of the El Corte Inglés spanning four DiMenna Associates, and philanthropist Marnay was dressed in a loose, white talent gave a quick Queen Elizabeth-like seasons and 45 videos, videos that Diana DiMenna are also honorees. leather dress. And who designed it? “Take wave, while some, like Robin Williams, were tagged via Mad Video were — DAVID MOIN a guess,” she said with a laugh, pointing got speaking roles. Returning to TV viewed three to four times more to the multiple alligator logos stamped in for the first time in 30 years as an than those that were not, and the Akris: For Akris’ resort collection, Albert relief, indicating it was a Lacoste number. adman in the new show “The Crazy click-through rate to product pages Kriemler found inspiration from Luis Marnay impersonates Gabrielle Ones,” Williams recalled those doubled with the tagged videos, Barragán — in books about the Mexican in the film “Opium,” being much simpler upfronts: “a bunch of according to Maguire. “Based on architect and especially his geometric screened on May 23 at part of the executives and a mound of cocaine.” that, we validated our platform with home and stable in Mexico City called Cannes Classics section. The feature As he made his entrance holding his retailers,” he said. Maguire and Cuadra San Cristóbal. “He was a modern by singer Arielle Dombasle and “curated” crotch and dancing, the Academy Garcia emphasized that another architect who has feeling and color sense by Pierre Bergé is based on artist Jean Award-winning actor noted “the benefit of Mad Video is the capacity as well as feeling for sensitive materials,” Cocteau and his inner circle, she said. strip-club motif. Welcome to Sugar to share tags on various social said Kriemler. Thus the designer’s play As for her Chanel costumes, Marnay Daddy’s, where old men dance media networks, such as Facebook on bold colors (fuchsia, azure) and use said she wore a combination of vintage for young girls.” The funnyman and Pinterest, and index tags on of Barragán’s photo prints on the resort and current ensembles, both ready-to- also compared the upfronts to the search engines. “Search engines clothes: skyscrapers on a delicate pleated wear and couture. Westminster Kennel Club’s dog show, are going to be able to store this dress, a wall of doors on a shift, a After the party, Krakoff and Colette’s but “with more agents and a little information, so if you are looking floral and gated door on a frock and a Sarah Andelman repaired to Caviar Kaspia, less ass-sniffing.” for a Zara jacket on Google, one leafy motif on a jacket and skirt. More where they hosted a dinner for 40 capped On his way out, Williams thanked of the potential results you can minimal looks sans prints included E G off with chocolate Ladurée macarons in “Mr. Moon Beams” for giving him a get is that jacket in a video in the modern dresses with zipper details, as MA I all-black packaging designed by Krakoff. day job. “It’s nice to have a job where precise minute, second or frame it well as slim and linear . IRE

/W Egged on by his chief executive officer hopefully the checks will clear,” the appears,”explained Garcia. E K Valérie Hermann, the designer stood and stand-up said. Stephen King has also — RACHEL BROWN

ROO delivered a thank-you speech in B pitch-perfect French, prompting ANDY

R a burst of applause from the Rose Marie Bravo and BY Parisian crowd. — MILES SOCHA Nicole Fischelis HOTO P

SPEAKING OF MACY’S: Macy’s group vice president and fashion director Nicole was honored at the High School Fischelis For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. of Fashion Industries’ annual benefit and student fashion show in New York on Tuesday evening. The award was presented by former Burberry chief executive officer Rose Marie Bravo in the Spaces rather grand auditorium of the public school, which is decorated with dramatic murals dating to 1939 depicting the COMMERCIAL history of the garment trade. Bravo and REAL ESTATE New York Embroidery Studio Production Coordinator Fischelis worked together at Saks Fifth Beading, Laser Cutting, Smocking, Tucking Major Sptswr importer seeks experi- novelty embellishments NYC, China & India enced, highly organized, motivated & Avenue from 1992 to 1997, when Bravo was 212-971-9101 [email protected] detail oriented indiv w/outstanding president and Fischelis was European PATTERNS, SAMPLES, communication & computer skills to PRODUCTIONS work in a high energy prod dept. 1-3 fashion director. “We were transported Full service shop to the trade. yrs experience & Mandarin speaking into another world,” said Bravo, painting a Showrooms & Lofts Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 preferred. Please e-mail resume to: BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS [email protected] spellbinding picture of Fischelis’ seasonal Great ’New’ Office Space Avail trend presentations. “We could forget this ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 season’s misses and markdowns, budget meetings and disgruntled vendors.” To subscribe, visit our website “This school is magic. It does have a special vibe. I’m sure if you come at night, www.wwd.com/subscribenow you hear voices,” said Fischelis, in her or call 800.289.0273 lilting French accent, to an audience that included IMG Fashion’s Christina Neault, chairman of the school’s advisory board; Kristin Scott Kleinfeld co-owner Mara Urshel, and The Thomas and (800) 423-3314, or email [email protected] Fashion Calendar’s Ruth Finley. Reed Krakoff

— DAVID LIPKE MAITRE DOMINIQUE BY PHOTO

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        #   !  #   !# "!! !  by JEAN E. PALMIERI   " NEW YORK — Andrew Marc has snagged Richard Chai to serve as its "   new creative design consultant. The appointment of the CFDA award-      winning designer is part of the compa- ny’s move to increase its visibility and    branch out beyond its roots as a men’s    leather outerwear brand. The first Andrew Marc by Richard    Chai collection, which will include men’s and women’s outerwear and sportswear,    will be for spring 2014 and will be pre- sented during Chai’s runway show at   " New York in September. Chai launched his namesake brand     " in 2004 and showed his women’s collec- tion on the runway the next year. In June   2008, Chai launched his men’s wear col-   lection during Paris Fashion Week. In 2009, the designer introduced a new con-    temporary women’s collection Richard Chai Love, the female counterpart to his   men’s wear label. Chai, who was named Swarovski Menswear Designer of the Year in 2010, is known for using archi- tectural design elements, and for the im- portance he places on the construction of apparel. Design signatures such as arced seams, unusual fabrics and a var- ied color palette provide a modern twist to classic old-world tailoring. Chai had a collaboration with Filson, but that ended after the brand changed hands. He also designs men’s footwear for Palladium and his most recent col- lection will hit stores this fall. Stephen Budd, who came on board as president of Andrew Marc last month, said: “We chose Richard Chai UZANO

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L which resonates with our brand’s rich history. Working with Richard to devel- op this collection is a very exciting op- portunity for us. Richard brings a more

; STYLEDING BY BY STYLEDING ; forward natural interpretation of the S Andrew Marc vision.” Chai said: “I am drawn to heritage brands, and I remember having such INA MODEL INA M positive regard for the Andrew Marc brand growing up. I am excited to delve into the DNA of the brand and to work with the in-house team to carve out the LEY AT WILHEL AT LEY R future, modern and innovative aesthet- FA

R ic of Andrew Marc. Stephen Budd is a TE friend, and the opportunity to work syn- ergistically on the business and creative development of the brand is exciting.” Andrew Marc was purchased by G-III Apparel Group Ltd. in 2008 for $42 mil-       lion from Gordon Brothers Group. At     that time, it generated around $80 mil-      lion in sales under its Andrew Marc and    Marc New York labels.

R CA MODEL: SALIBA; RENIE BY PHOTO {Continued on page MW4}

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                 by DAVID LIPKE spotting a gap in the market. OB launched as the more tailored approach to swim EVERYBODY in the water. ,” explained founder and majority That could be the sunny mantra from a owner Adam Brown, who based the design slew of recently launched men’s swimwear of his trunks on the traditional 17-piece labels aiming to make a splash in the surg- pattern of a man’s suit trouser, with a zip- ing category. Incorporating advanced fabrics, pered fl y, a four-part shaped waistband and trendy prints and premium details, the indie darts on the back for a better fit. brands are targeting contemporary custom- Also taking a sophisticated approach ers who have made bathing suits the latest to design is Carl Cunow, a former produc- fashion item ripe for reinvention. tion manager at Steven Alan who launched “The swim market feels a little to me like Onia in 2010. “Everyone was launching a the denim market 10 or 15 years ago — it was denim line or doing plaid and I saw a historically underdesigned and underap- niche for something different,” he remem- preciated but, as better quality came on the bered. “A t that point, there was only the market, people really begin to open up to loud prints and surf brands like Quiksilver premium and higher price points,” said Alex and I thought there was room for some- Faherty, who last month launched Faherty thing clean and tailored and high quality Brand with his twin brother Mike, using an e- for the contemporary market.” commerce launch pad offering laid-back, but Onia uses Japanese and European fabrics, exactingly designed, and trunks clean-finished interior seams and mesh liners that retail for $140 to $165. made from stretch material in its , Faherty Brand joins an increasingly which mostly retail for $130 to $145. Sales crowded pool of labels vying for the style- have tripled each year since 2010 and the conscious vacationer. Beachgoers can brand is now in more than 150 stores glob- choose from a platoon of Euro-centric ally, including Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys lines like Orlebar Brown, Robinson Les New York, Australia’s David Jones and select Bains, Cuisse de Grenouille and 83990, Theory stores. It has also developed a strong the latter named for the sun-kissed postal hotel and resort shop business. code of Saint-Tropez. There are revivals of John Moore, a veteran of Abercrombie vintage surf brands, such as Lightning Bolt & Fitch and Modern Amusement, two from the Seventies, M.Nii from the Fifties years ago revived the storied M.Nii label and Sundek from the Forties. Upstart and its classic Makaha Drowner board- Australia-based makers short. Made from two- like Venroy and States of ply, ring-spun twill Play have made inroads at instead of nylon, the vin- influential U.S. retailers, tage designs have been while homegrown brands picked up by Barneys like Onia, Saturdays New York, Steven Alan, Surf, Parke & Ronen and Ron Herman, Pilgrim Charlie by Matthew Zink and Beams. “They are are making waves with like that perfect pair their modern updates on of Levi’s or Ray-Bans,” the category. said Moore. “ We are seeing more Swim has proven to and more swim lines at be a strong seller online, trade shows like Capsule. with many companies Each season, there are first launching via e- a few more lines to look commerce. The We b ac- at,” said Jesse Warren, counts for 30 percent of founder of Tenet, a trendy total Orlebar Brown sales store in Southampton, and comprises 70 per- N.Y., that carries men’s cent of sales at Charlie by swimwear from Orlebar        Matthew Zink. “I can offer Brown, Olasul, Venroy a great product and qual- and Saltbox USA. “A few years ago, there ity while keeping prices down,” said Zink of was a void in the market, but it’s becom- the online model. “With swim, as in , ing filled now. There’s been a lot of mo- once someone knows their size they tend to mentum in the category.” come back to the same style and buy again That momentum is reflected in robust and again in new colors and prints.” sales figures. For the 12 months ended in Zink, a former swimwear design di- March, men’s swimwear sales grew 7.9 per- rector at Victoria’s Secret, launched his cent to $611.6 million, according to The NPD label in 2010. Channeling inspirations like Group figures. That expansion was on top of a Seventies Halston and Eighties Calvin 9.9 percent increase in the previous 12-month Klein, Zink offers swimwear that is mini- period. Men are also spending more per unit malist and body-conscious, with a focus on on their bathing suits, up from an average of clean lines and fabrics. All Charlie $15.82 for the 12 months ended in March 2011 and trunks are fashioned from a unique to $18.27 for the most recent year. knit, stretch microfiber nylon from Italy. “Our swim category has been growing Vilebrequin, long the gold standard in substantially each year,” confirmed Bryan independent swim brands, was scooped up Reynolds, divisional merchandise manager of last August by G-III Apparel Group Ltd. for men’s at Scoop, which operates 15 men’s stores. $106.2 million, which is aiming to rev up “Men are treating bathing suits as a fashion growth and expand into new categories. item that translates from beach to post-beach Since the acquisition, G-III has opened activities and buying multiple options.” new Vilebrequin retail stores in Short This season Scoop picked up Strong Hills, N.J., and Greenwich, Conn., with an- Boalt, a men’s swim line founded by other in Washington, D.C., set to open next Amanda Boalt, who is based in Palm Beach week, which will bring the U.S. freestand- and the granddaughter of the town’s late ing store count to 17. Tw o more units are doyenne of prints, Lilly Pulitzer. planned for Southern California by the end -based Orlebar Brown was an of this year, said Brian Lange, president of early pacesetter in the rising tide of men’s the Americas region at Vilebrequin. swimwear. The company launched with Globally, Vilebrequin now operates about 1,000 pairs of men’s swim shorts in 2007 and 150 retail stores, split about evenly between sales have doubled each year since then. owned and franchised, in addition to shops- The firm is on track to sell 120,000 units this in-shop. G-III’s bet on Vilebrequin was ap- year, with distribution in over 250 global plauded by analysts, who see room to capital- wholesale doors, including Barneys New ize on the unique brand and a hot category. York, Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus, “Swimwear isn’t just for swimming Selfridges, Lane Crawford and Mr Porter. anymore,” pointed out Sean Venturi, who Orlebar Brown has opened three brand- founded Venroy in 2010 with partner Theo ed stores in London with a fourth set to Smallbone. “Swim as a category has devel- open in Canary Wharf in November. The oped to complement a summer lifestyle company is eyeing retail locations in New where guys want to be able to wear shorts York and Miami for next year. not just at the pool, but also later on at the “The idea for Orlebar Brown came from bar and then on to dinner afterwards.”

ZEDLQGG 30  MW4 WWD THURSDAY, MAY 16, 2013    Andrew Marc Moves to Create Lifestyle Brand {Continued from page MW1} on leather. “We started Mark for $695, $2,500 for a vintage tions, Marlene McDade, who When it acquired the brand, Moto last year and this is the shearling flight jacket, as well will be working on the compa- G-III’s plan was to expand it evolution,” said Budd, who had as leather puffers and a down ny’s brand image. into other product categories run G-III’s men’s division in motorcycle jacket. This summer, the compa- and create a meaningful life- 2005 and served as group presi- Going forward, Chai will be ny will be evolving its digital style collection. That never dent of BCBG as well involved in the design of Denim platform so that each of its la- materialized in a substantive as president of brand collec- & Leathers as well as the core bels stands alone. A Denim & way, but Budd said 2013 will tions for Elie Tahari before re- Andrew Marc upscale brand Leathers site will be created be a transformational year joining G-III. and its secondary line, Marc and the Andrew Marc site will for the brand. In addition Denim & Leathers will New York. He will also work on have a new storefront with a to the appointment of Chai, launch at Saks Fifth Avenue as the women’s collection as well “pass-through” to Marc New Andrew Marc will introduce well as independent retailers as the new Noir leather sports- York, McDade said. a revamped collection for fall in late summer. The offering wear component of the offering, Budd said: “We are transform- called Denim & Leathers, a re- will include premium denim in launching for holiday. ing our brand messaging and the way we engage with our custom- incarnation of its Mark Moto a variety of washes and finishes &#!' Separately, Andrew Marc line, a motorcycle-inspired col- for $225, a leather motorcycle has hired a new vice president ers and retailers. It’s not just by AMANDA KAISER !$  lection with a heavy emphasis jacket with a sherpa lining of marketing and public rela- about outerwear anymore.” Pitti Uomo Puts Focus on International Stores by ALESSANDRA TURRA climate in Europe, this focus on year, the European Central Bank project; Killer Loop will unveil Stazione Leopolda, and Stella internationalization is a smart expressed confidence in the mar- its new “Designed to Capture the Jean, the namesake line of the MILAN — Faced with continued choice for Italian fashion com- kets and the U.S., the Far East and Extreme” collection of high-tech Rome-based designer, on June 20. economic struggles in Europe, panies, Pitti Immagine president Germany performed very well.” outerwear inspired by action At the fair’s Sala Ottagonale, Pitti Uomo is building on its Gaetano Marzotto said Tuesday. To catch the attention of inter- sports filmmakers and photogra- Biella-based Lanificio F.lli Cerruti strong relationship with inter- “Pitti aims to affirm its role as national buyers, this season Pitti phers, and U.S. Polo Association dal 1881 will present Parcour, a national department stores. a bridge between small- and mid- Uomo will focus on research and will showcase the spring 2014 car prototype with merino wool At the next edition of the dle-sized companies and the big innovation, hosting 1,010 brands, collection with a presentation to interiors realized in collaboration men’s trade show, slated for June foreign markets,” he said, noting with 36.6 percent of them coming the tune of a live performance of with Italdesign Giugiaro and The 18 to 21 in Florence, Saks Fifth that the powerful fashion groups from outside Italy. Skunk Anansie’s leader, Skin. Woolmark Co. The company will Avenue will showcase its men’s bring in 80 percent of their rev- Among them, Japanese Teaming up with Istanbul also unveil a limited-edition col- collection for wholesale distri- enues selling directly to consum- men’s wear label Kolor, this Fashion Week, Pitti will also lection of jackets designed by Nino bution for the first time. Saks ers. “Of course, this is impossible season’s guest designer at Pitti feature Turkey as the guest na- Cerruti’s son Julian, the creative Fifth Avenue New York, which for smaller companies. That’s Uomo, will unveil its spring tion in June — about 10 Turkish mind behind luxury niche men’s was launched in 2009 as a pri- why we are trying to put them in 2014 collection with a runway men’s and women’s designers wear label Natural Born Elegance. vate brand called the Saks Fifth contact with international land- show on June 20 at 8:30 p.m. at will unveil their collections at The 12th edition of Pitti W, the Avenue Men’s Collection, is man- lords who control the most impor- Florence’s Sferisterio del Parco the Sala della Scherma. women’s wear trade show taking ufactured in Italy and will be of- tant shopping malls in the world.” delle Cascine, a space built in Despite the focus on inter- place at the same time as Pitti fered to stores outside the U.S. According to data provided 1893 for ancient ball games. national labels, Pitti Uomo will Uomo, will be staged inside the In addition, Pitti Uomo’s or- by the Italian fashion and tex- In addition, Adidas will pres- continue to showcase the best of Fortezza da Basso. Paris-based ganizers have signed a two-year tile consortium SMI Sistema ent a capsule collection designed Made in Italy as well. This season, label Damir Doma will present agreement with Japanese depart- Moda Italia, in the first quarter by Tom Dixon; Canadian luxury Pitti Italics, the program support- its resort collection during an ment store Isetan where custom- of 2013, sales of fashion and tex- label Les Essentiels de La Vie ing young labels manufacturing event on June 19 at the Giardini ers at its Shinjuku store in Tokyo tile products nationally dropped will show its new accessories their collections in Italy, will pres- Corsini al Prato in Florence. The will be given the chance from 2 percent from the prior year, range in a garden house at the ent the men’s wear lines of boom- same night, Colombian designer June 26 to July 16 to preorder but exports were up 1.2 percent. fair’s main playground Fortezza; ing contemporary brand MSGM, Edgardo Osorio will organize an spring product selected by the de- Marzotto said that “2012 closed California-based swimwear designed by Massimo Giorgetti, event to show the latest collec- partment store’s buyers at the fair. with Southern Europe in crisis. brand Quiksilver will launch the who will unveil the collection with tion of its high-end women’s foot- Due to the difficult economic Luckily, in the first months of the Quiksilver Original Boardshorts an event on June 19 at Florence’s wear label Aquazzura.

and is now the sole owner of Jachs. The shirts are designed in          New York and manufactured in NEW YORK — Jachs has saying that he had visited sites China and India. They retail for       jumped into retail. in SoHo and other parts of the $59 to $89, although some items The men’s shirt brand has city before deciding on this loca- can inch up to $129 or $159 if ""(" ' . +  %"$&&'% opened a 900-square-foot store tion. “For the money and for our they have special washes or fab-  && &""&!$'& %%"' $!& on Bleecker and Grove Streets customer, we felt this was the rics. Pants and shorts are $69 to &%# +' !)"$%)  &&&&%"$  in Greenwich Village here, just correct match.” $99, jackets and blazers are $149, )&%#$%"! &+ ,&&!)"$%) )& steps away from the J. Press Banastey is no stranger to the knits are $39 to $59 and %$  %"& York Street boutique. It marks New York retail scene. A 30-year retail for $79 to $99. The denim %'& %!"& the first foray into retail for the apparel industry veteran, his other is manufactured in New York. %'&  %'&%($+$$#& label, which got its start in 2008 ventures have included Everything The women’s collection, which  '%&$# ##$"#$&)&"'& as Just a Cheap Shirt. $10, Atmosphere and Work in was launched three years ago, %#&! !-%+ Founder Hayati Banastey Progress. As he was preparing to has the same vintage American &*&'$! launched the label as an inex- close Work in Progress a few years sensibility. The store " #  !&% !$$"))& pensive alternative to the clas- ago, he designed 50 shirts in the also includes some third-party && sic button-down, with brands for merchan- "&&!!% washed plaids and dise that the company %+"'&' ##  flannels inspired by does not produce. That ' !" & !&" "$ vintage Americana, and includes Filson, Will &%%+% quickly found fans at Leather Goods and M. ! #( !&&&& Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Cohen for bags and ac-  &%% & +'!"! Avenue and dozens of cessories, and Banastey %&"'&,& independents. “We hit is talking to Red Wing $$! &&  "$%'  !%$&! the trend — probably and New Balance about #  & by mistake,” Banastey providing shoes. For "+%##  said with a chuckle. spring 2014, he will add   ! Since then, Jachs a Jachs kids line. has expanded into bot- Banastey said he ' ! !( (+$% "& ")$% toms and knitwear and %&"$!& still considers Jachs ES %!&  G %&  #!&% "!&% also offers a women’s a wholesale business MA I collection under the IANNACCONE THOMAS BY PHOTO and looks at the store  # &  $% name Jachs’ Girlfriend. as a prototype. He does  !!  %"#$& The store, which will have basement of the store, took a booth hope to open additional stores its grand opening next month, at Project New York and sold in New York as well as Chicago,   &!  !)&#" % %"%"%$!  speaks to the brand’s aesthetic $500,000 worth of merchandise. Miami and Los Angeles. He’s also ! ! $ with antique wood accents, vin- “I said, ‘Well, I think I’m in busi- close to finalizing a deal with a li- tage trunks and hand-painted ness,’” he said. Originally, he had censee in China to franchise and $! !& front windows. a partner who owned a manufac- open 100 stores in that country “We’d been looking for a loca- turing facility in Turkey, but since and eventually Korea. 

tion for a while,” Banastey said, then Banastey bought his shares — JEAN E. PALMIERI GRAYLOCK/GETTY JENNIFER BY PHOTO

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