' (. ' illit,;; !•' 1,1;, , !mii;t( ';•'';• TIE SPANIARDS THEIR COUNTRY. BY RICHARD FORD, AUTHOR OF THE HANDBOOK OF SPAIN. NEW EDITION, COMPLETE IN ONE VOLUME. NEW YORK: GEORGE P. PUTNAM, 155 BROADWAY. 1848. f^iii •X) -+- % HONOURABLE MRS. FORD, These pages, which she has been, so good as to peruse and approve of, are dedicated, in the hopes that other fair readers may follow her example, By her very affectionate Husband and Servant, Richard Ford. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. PAOK. A General View of Spain—Isolation—King of the Spains—Castilian Precedence—Localism—Want of Union—Admiration of Spain—M. Thiers in Spain , . 1 CHAPTER II. The Geography of Spain—Zones—Mountains—The Pyrenees—The Gabacho, and French Politics . ... 7 CHAPTER in. The Rivers of Spain—Bridges—Navigation—The Ebro and Tagus . 23 CHAPTER IV. Divisions into Provinces—Ancient Demarcations—Modern Depart- ments—Population—Revenue—Spanish Stocks .... 30 CHAPTER V. Travelling in Spain—Steamers—Roads, Roman, Monastic, and Royal —Modern Railway—English Speculations 40 CHAPTER VI. Post Office in Spain—Travelling with Post Horses—Riding post—Mails and Diligences, Galeras, Coches de DoUeras, Drivers and Manner of Driving, and Oaths 53 CHAPTER VII. SpanishHorsea—Mules—Asses—Muleteers—Maragatos ... 69 — CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. PAGB. Riding Tour in Spain—Pleasures of it—Pedestrian Tour—Choice of Companions—Rules for a Riding Tour—Season of year—Day's • journey—Management of Horse ; his Feet ; Shoes General Hints 80 CHAPTER IX. The Rider's cos.tume—Alforjas : their contents—The Bota, and How to use it—Pig Skins and Borracha—Spanish Money—Onzas and smaller coins 94 CHAPTER X. Spanish Servants: their Character—Travelling Groom, Cook, and Valet ... ... .105 CHAPTER XI. A Spanish Cook—Philosophy of Spanish Cuisine—Sauce—Difficulty of Commissariat—The Provend—Spanish Hares and Rabbits—The 011a—Garbanzos—Spanish Pigs—Bacon and Hams—Omelette Salad and Gazpacho . ... 119 CHAPTER XII. Drinks of Spain—Water—Irrigation—Fountains—Spanish Thirsti- ness—The Alcarraza—Water Carriers—Ablutions—Spanish Choc- olate—Agraz—Beer Lemonade 136 CHAPTER XIII. Spanish Wines—Spanish Indifference —Wine-making—Vins du Pays —Local Wines—Benicarlci—Valdepenas 146 CHAPTER XIV. Sherry Wines—The Sherry District—Origin of the Name—Varieties of Soil—Of Grapes—Pajarete—Rqjas Clemente—Cultivation of Vines—Best Vineyards—The Vintage—Amontillado—The Capataz —The Bodega—Sherry Wine—Arrope and Madre Vino—A lecture on Sherry in the Cellar—at the Table—Price of Fine Sherry—Fal- sification of Sherry—Manzanilla—The Alpistera . .161 —— CONTENTS. CHAPTER XV. PACK Spanish Inns: Why so Indifferent—The Fonda—Modern Improve- ments—The Posada—Spanish Innkeepers—The Venta : Arrival in it—Arrangement—Garlic—Dinner—Evening—Night—Bill—Iden- tity with the Inns of the Ancients 167 CHAPTER XVI. Spanish Robbers—A Robber Adventure—Guardias Civiles—Exag- geratedAccounts—Cross of the Murdered—Idle Robber Tales French Bandittiphobia—Robber History—Guerrilleros—Smugglers —Jose Maria—Robbers of the First Class—The Ratero—Miguelites —Escorts and Escopeteros—Passes, Protections, and Talismans Execution of a Robber 188 CHAPTER XVII. The Spanish Doctor : his Social Position—Medical Abuses—Hospitals —Medical Education—Lunatic Asylums—Foundling Hospital of Seville—Medical Pretensions—Dissection—Family Physician- Consultations—Medical Costume—Prescriptions—Druggists—Snake Broth—Salve for Knife-cuts 215 CHAPTER XVIII. Spanish Spiritual Remedies for the Body—Miraculous Relics—Sanative Oils—Philosophy of Relic Remedies—Midwifery and the Cinta of Tortosa—Bull of Crusade 239 CHAPTER XIX. The Spanish Figaro—Mustachios—Whiskers—Beards—Bleeding Heraldic Blood—Blue, Red, and Black Blood—Figaro's Shop—The Baratero—Shaving and Toothdrawing . .... 259 CHAPTER XX. What to observe in Spain—How to observe—Spanish Incuriousness and Suspicions—French Spies and Plunderers—Sketching in Spain Difficulties ; How surmounted—Efficacy of Passports and Bribes Uncertainty and Want of Information in the Natives . 269 CHAPTER XXI. Origin of Bull-fight or Festival, and its Religious Character Fiestas Reales—Royal Feasts—Charles I. at one—Discontinuance of the Old System—Sham Bull-fights—Plaza de Toros—Slang Lan- guage—Spanish Bulls—Breeds—The Going to a Bull-fight . 290 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXII. PASS. The Bull-fight—Opening of Spectacle—^First Act, and Appearance of the Bull—The Picador—Bull Bastinado—The Horses, and their Cruel Treatment—Fire and Dogs—The Second Act—The Chulos and their Darts—The Third Act—The Matador—Death of the Bull —The Conclusion, and Philosophy of the Amusement—Its Effect on Ladies 305 CHAPTER XXIII. ' Spanish Theatre ; Old and Modern Drama ; Arrangement of Play- houses—The Henroost—The Fandango ; National Dances—A Gipsy Ball—Italian Opera—National Songs and Guitars .... 324 CHAPTER XXIV. Manufacture of Cigars—Tobacco—Smuggling via Gibraltar—Cigars of Ferdinand VII.—Making a Cigarrito—Zumalacarreguy and the Schoolmaster—Time and money wasted in smoking—Postscript on Spanish Stock 341 THE SPANIABDS AND THEIR COUNTRY. CHAPTER I. A general Tiew of Spain—Isolation—King of the Spains—Castilian pre- cedence—Localism—Want of Union—Admiration of Spain—M. Thiers in Spain. The kingdom of Spain, which looks so compact on the map, is composed of many distinct provinces, each of which in earlier times formed a separate and independent kingdom ; and although all are now united under one crown by marriage, inheritance, conquest, and other circumstances, the original distinctions, geo- graphical as well as social, remain almost unaltered. The lan- guage, costume, habits, and local character of the natives, vary no less than the climate and productions of the soil. The chains of mountains which intersect the whole peninsula, and the deep rivers which separate portions of it, have, for many years, operated as so many walls and moats, by cutting off intercommu- nication, and by fostering that tendency to isolation which must exist in all hilly countries, where good roads and bridges do not abound. As similar circumstances led the people of ancient Greece to split into small principalities, tribes and clans, so in Spain, man, following the example of the nature by which he is surrounded, has little in common with the inhabitant of the ad- joining district ; and these differences are increased and perpetu- ated by the ancient jealousies and inveterate dislikes, which petty and contiguous states keep up with such tenacious memory. The general comprehensive term " Spain," which is convenient for geographers and politicians, is calculated to mislead the traveller, PART I. 2 2 THE SPANIARDS AND THEIR COUNTRY. for it would be far from easy to predicate any single thing of Spain or Spaniards which will be equally applicable to all its heterogeneous component parts. The north-western provinces are more rainy than Devonshire, while the centre plains are more calcined ihan those of the Deserts of Arabia, and the littoral south or eastern coasts altogether Algerian. The rude agricultural Gallician, the industrious manufacturing artisan of Barcelona, the gay and voluptuous Andalucian, the sly vindictive Valencian, are as essentially different from each other as so many distinct characters at the same masquerade. It will therefore be more convenient to the traveller to take each province by itself and treat it in detail, keeping on the look-out for those peculiarities, those social and natural characteristics or idiosyn- cracies which particularly belong to each division, and distinguish it from its neighbors. The Spaniards who have written on their own geography and statistics, and who ought to be sup- posed to understand their own country and institutions the best, have found it advisable to adopt this arrangement from feeling the utter impossibility of treating Spain (where union is not unity) as a whole. There is no king of Spain ; among the infinity of king- doms, the list of which swells out the royal style, that of " Spain" is not found ; he is king of the Spains, Rex Hispaniarum, Eey de las Espanas, not " Eey de Epana.'" Philip II., called by his countrymen el prudente, the prudent, wishing to fuse down his heterogeneous subjects, was desirous after bis conquest of Por- tugal, which consolidated his dominion, to call himself King of Spain, which he then really was ; but this alteration of title was beyond the power of even his despotism ; such was the opposition of the kingdoms of Arragon and Navarre, which never gave up the hopes of shaking off the yoke of Castile, and recovering their former independence, while the empire provinces of New and Old Castile refused in anywise to compromise their claims of pre-eiTiinence. They from early times, as now, took the lead in " national nomenclatures ; hence Castellano," Castilian, is syno- nymous with Spaniard, and particularly with the proud genuine older-stock. " Castellano a las derechas, means a Spaniard to " the backbone ; Hahlar Castellano," to speak Castilian, is the correct expression for speaking the Spanish language. Spain ; LOCALISM OF SPANIARDS. again was long without the advantage of a fixed metropolis, like Rome, Paris, or London, which have been capitals from their foundation, and recognized and submitted to as such ; here, the cities of Leon, Burgos, Toledo, Seville, Valladolid, and others, have each in their turns been the capitals of the kingdom. This constant change and short-lived pre-eminence has weakened any- prescriptive superiority of one city over another, and has been a cause of national weakness by raising up rivalries and disputes about precedence, which is one of the most fertile sources of dissension among a punctilious people. In fact the king was the state, and wherever he fixed his head-quarters was the court, La Corte, a word still synonymous with Madrid, which now claims to be the only residence of the Sovereign—the residenz, as Germans would say ; otherwise, when compared with the cities above mentioned, it is a modern place ; from not having a bishop or cathedral, of which latter some older cities possess two, it has not even the rank of a ciudad, or city, but is merely de- nominated villa, or town.