QREGOXIAN. PORTLAND, AUGUST 21, 1910.

s i mum J wsm-imu- 0Samme Sex 1 ARRIVALS IN PORTLAND; THE HOBBLE AND OTHER NOVELTIES arrived the bobble carter; was not extremely so. reflecting the however, so that the Is abundant full- aeen but it more generous breadths of the Fall ness without bagglness, the . French JUST yon haven't It ret. a Is graceful and appearance in middle styles. The was made with sleeve anything but the Its the yoke of tucked net, and trimmed with pretty thing it can be. and for this acces- care- of the week, at the neckwear and bands of the coral-tone- d silk, the elbow reason one should choose very sory counter of one of the Portland de- sleeves being trimmed with plaltlngs of fully. The advance notes in the fash- partment stores. It wa or they were the silk. With this modish was ion magazines say that the French displayed on a trim pair of waxen limbs, worn a simple hat of fine straw, orna- sleeve will remain "good" throughout on the class case. Made of roblna'-eg- g mented with flaring bows of black velvet, the Autumn and Winter. over elastio bands of the only touch of the coral tone being blue ribbon shirred the huge enameled heads of the two hat White kid gloves, stitched down the the same tint, the garter part of the nov- pins thrust through from the left side. back in purple, or even bearing broad elty was nothing new. except that the bands of this tone, are making their round carter has of recent years become Some pretty Autumn plaids are also in appearance in the local stores, and almost an extinct species. But the evidence; this season's offerings In the among the past week's displays have connect- plaids refreshingly lacking in the been noted kerchiefs edged or em- startling feature was the are violet, a ing strap of elastic, covered daintily with rather garish effects with which we have broidered In purple or and been familiar. Ivendar- - and white, number of dainty frills and furbelows the shirred blue ribbon, to either end of accessory also have the which a garter was Army affixed! The heliotrope and white, dark blue and In the line black, and such dainty combinations are pretty decorative touch of violet object of the hobble carter, frankly set or dots. forth In the advertisement which the being shown as the modish patterns for squares, gleur de lis, daleies daily press, was "to the Autumn. firm inserted in the ever-changi- handbag, regulate your gait." What painful thing An unusually pretty "trotting" frock Anent the was seen on Washington street the other the very newest affairs are of suede, might happen in case the hobble patent leather, and from six hobble-garter- maiden should take day. It was of heliotrope and whtte In a velvet or and small plaid pattern, bandings of to ten Inches square. The purple or too long and too vigorous .a stride Is with ascendancy, and dreadful contemplate. The stinging heliotrope and whits silk, and was cut violet tones are In the to "co-ed- bags are capacity of even a small rubber band, somewhat after the " style of last some of the most attractive season; the plaited fullness at the bot of black or dark tones, with the mono- when It breaks and snaps back against stamped in modish the finger or face. Is only too well known. tom, however, was much more scant, and gram or Initial the . at the front there was a broad boxplalt purple, wistaria or violet. The Portland Jewelry shops are show- effect, so that the knife plaits falling towards the back did not start until The "stovepipe" turban is with us. ing a number of interesting tilings which upon in a are feminine shoppers pause as well around towards each side. The box It is appearing the streets civlnc plait effect was repeated at the back, the hundred different shapes and color they pass by the display windows. X seems to be Invaria- et two flat panels giving the modish nar- combinations, and Washington-stre- Jeweler is displaying from some exquisitely dainty Fall novelties in row or hobble appearance. bly becoming. As a change the , among them being rather tiresome Hindu turbans, the ornamental "hug-the-hea- turbans a set of the daintiest possible hairpins By the way, since the hobble skirt "stovepipe" or gold wire, fashioned muoh has arrived, and Is being accepted as are refreshing, but they still leave of crinkled with us the problem of how to like the common wire , but with a matter of fact In Portland, there has becomingly keep it so tiny pearls set In the bend at been a great ripping' and slashing of the hair and a row of close-flttin- g To be sure, one-pie- under the hat. the head of the pin. With these are dis- old linen and . can be sim- some hairpins, of The plain gored skirt or Bimple one-pie- a stunning coiffure effect played attractive horn ply attained by merely leaving a loose the square-toppe- d sort, but the tops are frock is easily converted into the peep under- and with pretty stones. narrowed-in- . hobble style by the mere and fluffy fringe to from metallized set down-turne- d brim, sup- novelty shown la large taking In of the seams of the skirt neath the but Another smart a pose one must remove the turbanl Too handbag of silver mesh whlf-- shows gold from a point a little above the knees, disappears, running through, not distinctly, down to the bottom. The change should often the charm entirely stripes even from a coiffure most carefully but in the shadow effect. A variety of be made in the rear gores principally. heavy and with huge built, for the turbans are the new enameled to crush the hair and rob it of its heads adds to the interest of the win- The erase for purple, which has been tend closely to raging for some weeks past "on the fluifiness by confining It so dow. head. There Is really no room for other side," is beginning to make itself the tur- sil- and "rats" under the new Apropos of the handbag of woven felt In Portland. Through the usual braids dressed re- medium stage and Eastern tour- ban, and so the hair must be ver, an interesting letter has been of the simply, with the elaboration all ceived by the woman's department from ists, the new color began to manifest rather Chig- ago, now of- at the back, and In front edge. a matinee maid who had Just been the Itself some time and the fluffy puffs can recipient pretty bag of silver mesh, ferings In the stores are taking on the nons of curls and little of a be worn at the back, and if one and who knew no better than to hold It royal hue. The purple note is also still fre- chiffon-broadclo- th shampoos the rest of the hair m her pearl gray lap strong in the and ' under fluffy enough to during play. After the final cur- way at the leading modistes and wo- quently It can be kept the This h hnuffant without support of "rats." tain call, when the lights were turned men's tailoring establishments. pad. doing effective up, she discovered, to her dismay, that warm "queen of colors and color of the merest little the bag had left a dark and ugly tarnish queens" Is heralded as one of the fea- dutr- - on the front of her . When she tures of the Autumn styles, running pansy shades through That the bow Is to be one of the reached home. Just by way of experiment, from the deepest new Autumn hats dusted a thick coating of talcum the rich plum and wistaria tones, and main features of the she bordering on the Is now an assured fact. To be sure, powder over the spot. let It remain a to the palest effects plumes will al&o few minutes and then brushed It out. lilac. The lilac tones, emphasised by feathers, wings and In some figure prominently In the smart models, To her delight all the tamtBh had van- the deeper shades, are figuring he hrushed out the of the smartest Fall modls. the richer but the huge velvet bow will be ished when she had lapels, cuffs, chief trimming of a certain type, of powder. purples being used for of a bow, patch-pocket- s, etc. suits or modish hat, and this matter "I could not have spared the dress With the can quite as ex- writes, "and the ruin- gowns of the darker shades, contrast- be it understood, be that week." she corn color, pensive as some of the more preten- ous fee of a er would have been ing tones, such aa cream and I give to effect. tious and elaborate garnishments. a tragedy to my depleted allowance. relief the berlbboned oreations will am not sure talcum would be effec- On the lingerie blouses and frocks, Some of the the edg-ln- cs high 25, when one takes tive the tarnish had been rubbed the frills and embroideries show run as as and after of the tones, deep into account the yards and yards of In, but it worked beautifully for me. or dots various or chiffon used tell others about It. and also tell violet being one of the favorite hues heavy brocade of velvet Please A quite In the huge bows, this does not seem them that when they use gasoline for for this dainty decorativeneas. fabrics of all cleaning to add first a pinch of salt to new purple note is the reversible silk so absurd. The Persian prevent rings tic. for wear with the smart patent-leath- er kinds are to remain popular, and these the gasoline, to the that purple on will be employed In the big bows ex- It otherwise leaves." low boot; these are covered e one side, and of a cantrasting tone on tensively. Huse picture hats, tied, velvet, and laden heavily with very dainty little Fall frocks are the other, to that when the bow is with Some in the knot. plumes, will be another type of fash- Just now making their appearance, worn both colors show hat, according to the leading with charming effect by the young girls ionable by way of comment Portland milliners, and velvet In all who are getting togneher their ward- Incidentally, the will be particularly modish. robes far the Fall terms of finishing upon masculine concessions to Dame forms schools universities. One of the fa- Fabhlon. note. If you please, the num- and In ney The extremely simp:e shepherdess vorite materials and well suited to the ber of ties and lisle socks the broad and slightly- - temperature Fall, is soft, worn by me exi shape, with Its negative of the tones oiner j i . im heralded as the ol shade. graceful chullio. which comes In seems to be the favorite dressy type of chapeaux for Fall and so .many pretty patterns and delicate How long will the French sleeve last question that Is now per- Winter. They are duiii inoucraiou color tones. An always smartly dressed This Is a Just high, with huge , and will be Portland girl, who will be off in a few plexing us all. Pome of the very sheer- shirt-wai- st with velvet principally, with weeks for one of the fashionable schools est and daintiest of and covered an lingerie blouse offerings In the Port- under lacings or buk in hbiu on the Hudson, wore at a matinee some- facing. If chosen wisely, can frock of challle. having j land stores have this pretty but This under attractive little De iuwjo - ground sprinkled with rings and j what eccentric sleeve, and at the shirt- a white one continually hears may choose the delicate tone of silk polka dots of delicate coral, and with waist counters to one's coloring, and make effect comments, ss some shopper best suited bands of coral silk producing the j doubtful and the tone to blena wim one o cusumis of a arapery over tne ratner piajn t succumbs to the appeal of the lace t I right. charmingly. .Ll.. XLhllA th. alrlT-- ran narrow, it daintiness. Unless litted Just SMART DESIGNS FOR MAKING OVER GOWNS SET FORTH ON THIS PAGE up of old materials can employ and keep up es The woman who wishes to with lace treated to It for yokes, under-sleev- a smart appearance must be Interested and skirt bands there Is at once eternally in dressmaking: affairs a look of distinction. whether she makes her own frowns or And now pray let me demonstrate not- - This Is because freshness Is the with the models shown herewith, all of first quality that la considered by which offer the smartest possibilities , and so If there Is no new gar- for remodeling. ment on hand there Is always an old Flcure A. This Is a tunic of one which can be Improved with some black fishnet over royal blue messallne. change or other and little freshening It Is trimmed with a blue and black ap- touches. Just now Madame la Mode Is plique laid on the net to form a deep giving us a series of skimp skirts and border like lace, and a soft sash of silk I FIOtRS A. patchy little which lend them- girdles the waist. selves admirably as models for making Let us assume that there is a silk em- over last Summer's frocks or for re- pire dress from last Summer to be made juvenating those of the present season over one with the Inevitable lace yoke, which have become shabby from use-The- re short waist and skimp skirt. If this is Is an astounding mixture of ma- still in a fair condition, clean the lace of Serving Chicken terials, which Is a point for making yoke. But on new fastenings and match Novel Ways over even a rather scant dress; so with the eilk with a net or veiling, or get a the wide skirt bands used, the pretty sprigged muslin.-- These new ma- CHICKEN MOLD This U cupfuls of nicely seasoned chickens, with bibs, the pretty collars and cuffs, terials are for the upper part of the dish and minced finely, with a cupful of boiling all of which may be in a different color dress, which begins with the lower line FIGURE B. B an excellent hot weather liquor, or as much tomato Juice. Itself, al- goes of be found most oyster and texture from the frock of the lace yoke and to the hem one which would Stir in six chopped mushrooms, the most any frock may be picked to pieces the foundation. Make a straight wide a busy day. Select a frlcaaaa yolks two boiled eggs only a mat- useful for pounded of hard for remaking. 'When It Is flounce and tuck the bottom or trim it lnlne-litt- le leave the poonfuls cream. Add of a dress, frock offers a way to draw fowl and have the butcher and two tables of ter of changing the style with a bias band from six to eight inches present close neck long and cut the nails from the finely toasted bread crumbs and more the models of the moment would cut deep. Sew this on the empire founda- a wide skirt In after the a few cream If needed to make a soft paste. over last Summer's frocks and leave tion, gathering it a little more fully at manner, while almost any jumper bodice feet. Skin these by soaking them In to Menus for One water; dismember the Pack In large clam shells, or a bak- a surplus, so much wider were skirts, the back and sides than at the front. from last season might be arranged mlnutea In hot ing dish, put nuts of butter on everything else then than according to the pictured advantage pictured the little of fowl, and boll all together sleeves and Shape the tunic as here. As rest the and cook covered for IS minutes; then now. In fact the very narrowest of the model and attach it at the waist a little is of sprigged muslin in pale blue Week Is tender enough to Cold lamb, re- frock until the flesh uncover and brown lightly. Empire styles offers chances for above the normal waist line. When mak- and white, with a simple white lace used pick to pieces with the fingers. Dur- duck or boiled veal may be prepared modeling, for since skirts are so scant ing Jumper blouse have the outside TINQlaB. the on-- the bodice for hobbling skirt BY LILIAN ing the boiling, season the chicken In the same way. with the substltutioa and the belt line still abore the normal belt wide enough to hide the short waist and the Tuesday. large Bermuda onKin. aeveral good oyster jar to- may be used band. The tucked vest, and neck and with one of a stock for the these short walsted frocks line of the foundation. This dress can be Celerv oonBOmm. talks of celery, parsley, cayenne and mato juice. as foundations for the prettiest tunle made In one In this way over any prin- sleeve ruffles are of plain white muslin. Mutton cutlets. Southern styl. eolt. When done and cool enough te effects. cess slip, or It may be divided, as pic- A plain goods would be as effective in Rice imbales. Baked tomato. pick the flesh from the cup- contemplating a change of Pear and celery salad. handle, ail CHICKEN CROQUETTES Stir a When tured, into two pieces. this style as a flowered one, and If veil Coffee jelly. Cream., bones. feet. neck. eta. and discard the ful of minced cold chicken and the same style in a dress, the sewer must first For the Jumper, tunic and skirt flounce ing were employed a matching or con- Coffee. kin. Chop finely to almost a pasta together; pick her old gown to pieces, brush It eight years of single width goods would for the trim- mold, on some of quantity of sweetbreads these trasting silk could be used Wednesday. and pack In a pouring last boiled and blanched and also finely free of threads and dust, and clean and be needed. ming. The model also allows for a round Mutton broth with vegetable the boll-wat- er between each layer of minced.' Add drawn butter, or a little press the breadths that are to be Figure B. This frock shows how an or slightly trained skirt. Beef tongue corned. Falsln" sauea. chicken. Cover tightly and set on the chicken stock thickened lightly with changed. A black goods, either wool old net or lace waist may be made the From eight to ten yards of new ma- Potatoes au gratin. Htrlns bean. toe-- on a cold dish and serve with respond well to a very gown, Lettuce salad. Turn Only flour. Heat In a vessel sat In another or soft silk, will first principle of a smart terial would be required for the design Peach puddlnc (cold). at trimming of canned pimentos. containing boiling water, and when good wash with soap bark, which la whether the sleeves are In the present this In the average single width. Coffee. water enough to cover the chicken heated through take from the fir and an inexpensive cleanser to be found in kimono shape or not. Here the waist is Figure D. A very smart and useful Thursday. must be used for the tolling or the pinch Silks wools still of cream net. tucked finely, and may got up in man- soup. boil-wat- er add a cupful of cream (with a of any drugstore. and made outing frock be this Cream of beef mold will not harden. The soda stirred In) and the beaten yolks good enough to use when faded may be with the bodice and sleeves in one. A ner from an old coat ample enough Hunter's pie. Corn custard, be enough to form a Jelly. same color, lettuce heart and pepper salad. bust rich of two eggs. Mix well, set In a cold dipped In a dye of the or chantecler ruffle of lace trims the neck to permit recuttlng. The suit consists Chilled watermelon. Little cake. place until solid: then mold into round have the tint entirely changed, and and the pretty cuffs are of the skirt of a very scant gored skirt, trimmed Coffee. BROILED COLD CHICKEN Here Is or oblong . croquettes. Dip these In where the dress goods is not good tuff, which is a cream sateen with vel- at the bottom with a band In contrast- Friday. good way to vary the monotony of beaten egg. then In crumbs and fry a enough for the outside there Is always vet flowers. On the skirt, tunic and bibs ing color. The Jacket Is in Norfolk Tomato bouillon. is of the neck au cold fowl, whether boiled or roasted: rich brown in boiling cottonseed oil or the possibility . of using It for a a cream lace used like that shape with collar and cuffs like the Baked halibut gratia. which haa not foundation for a thinner material. One ruffle. skirt band, and a leather belt, slipping Cu cumber salad. Brown sliced potatoes Take the half or quarter lard. bodice In good bands, put Pineapple fritters. It over with a mistake the inexperienced sewer la If the old lace or net is under the stitched which are Coffee. been cut Into and rub to make when remodeling an oTB condition, quite a. pale goods could be on like Norfolk plaits. In cutting over marinade of two tablespoonfnls of vine- To remove iron mould from marble rub likely sur- Saturday. dipped In garment 'Is to use a new material In a used for the rest of the dress, hut If not the old suit from last Summer the Fish chowder soup. gar and one of lemon Juice Put the the marble with a cut lemon be in some could be used peppers set aalde this1 not remove color so bright or delicate as to show the new material bad better plus of the skirt breadths Stuffed (minced fresh meat). fowl between two platea and common salt. If doaa or other- dim tone, such as smoke-gra- y, brown, for the stitched band of the coat, and Scalloped potatoes. Green corn. Then rub the oil and stain, try rubbing It with spirits of off more plainly the faded Tomato salad. for three hour. the appearance of old stuff. "faded" blue, etc Again. If there la If the bottom of the skirt is worn it ' lemon well Into It. dip In egg and ammonia, which 1 often successful when wise used the Peach Shortcake. Juice possible. It is to com- PIGUKS C material enough for all the dress" but could be cut away here, and pieoed Coffee. then In fine toasted crumbs: set on the other treatments fall. In either case ft So whenever best over me- - bine old with old. that Is. put two the waist this could be of spotted point with a lining material, which the Sunday. Ire for an hour, and broil over a la wall to afterwards rlnsa the spot and d'esprit, which airy and effective tex- trimming band would be put. The fire, turning often. Make a polish It frocks together, or else make use of laces for remodeling, cream is better Vegetable consomme. elun hot with a soft doth. trimmings have been employed pure white, and" will blend tile, when of cotton, is very cheap. sleeves might be lengthened In the same Roast eaL Savory dressing. I gravy of melted butter with chopped that than this flounce, tunic and bibs, way under the cuffs. If this were neces- Pacnn rolls. pickled peachea. Is not done have the more softly with the old material For the skirt - j parsley and a few drops of lemon Juice To vend a torn umbrella stlrk black before If this still or eight yards of medium wide sary, and the coat itself made still flashed potatoes. String- beans. over dish. will new stuff black or In some color too If It Is strung with narrow black vel seven Lettuce saiad. and poor the court plaster Inside the tear. This gold Is goods would be needed. shorter. Tee cream In cantaloupes. cakea. and will last for deep for the contrast with the vet. Indeed, black bebe velvet the -, Little how leas than a darn choosing maJter- - Figure C This dainty and very fern- MARY DEAN. Coffee. stCAUiOrED CHICKEN Mix twa j soma Uo goods to be too striking. In most dainty ornamentation the