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'A More Severe Form of the New Lady Duf Gordon Cre- ation in Wich the Panta. Ioon Effect Is Mininmiz.e. By Lady Duff Gordon OFER for your consideration E this week a new silhouette which I have just created for the season. It is a compromise in- vention inasmuch as it gives the line of the hobble and yet has not NZ the fault that gave the hobble skirt its name; it gives the freedom of movement that isp one plea for the outrageous short now so much seen, and yet at the same time has none of their so often grotesque and The? therefore immodest scantiness. By sacri- Icing nothing of the beauty of Ieserve it conserves the ancient allurement which is woman's right. from the I suppose it will be christened the Back "Panta " or something of that sort, and that is really, in a way, what It Is. the The skirt divides above the knees into "Hobble" loose, or, as the case may be, fairly closely fitting pantaloons which allow the utmost Silhouette, freedom of movement In walking or But Which, dancing. At the same time the effect is Unikhe so much that of at not all, but of the drs An makte thei fbes orftha" a close-fitting skirt. Hobble Of course, there are many modifications longeforwar i one Gan;hich cvr otmen and developments. The may run Give. Full einhaentellariousc fnoug to fstudyther from one which the observer would never Freedom of aef hamronaoyus wihe oud aaiomnt know to be bifurcated to one which from Movement. to-day and hat mandemup wormn-oult above the knees to the ankles would be, she fel thatoo opecnnedo thie situa- frankly, Oriental trousering. Or, to be tiondes, thein the best ocalt othey more specific, a rather close resemblaite This model is close to woko-eettsedressecns the to the wonderful ,attire of those ancient the extreme end of the arc bestnes Persian ladies who used to delight the of the . I, there- look coorad is oni which el ert womn eyes of the kings and warriors of that day. fore, show you aflother of have pointed out before, the blindness of terpre haitsellienc erngouhto stud hegood a of the Perhaps description two models the gowns which is close many women in deliberately inviting dis- poelf and imesnayise hde woer ba pan- I am sending with my article will make to the other end. It is, as aster, so far as their charm and allurement The woman wholdoe ol ahist whde, ing done tha stae And thning doneo the matter clearer. One of these is a y'ou wIll see, very much are concerned, by following like sheep the teing ad haree ade dance dress undeperdendorany of changeable silver and more severe in outline. dictates of any fashion is truly extraor- tyranneel thatshen canntmaegn upher greenish cloth. The trouserette portion of The larger picture reveals dinary. Fashion may put a limit to the or who knows it is not suitable to her. mind ouhtef th en h utclnohr the skirt is of gold cloth. The dress is the peculiar draping of length of the skirt. Very well. If women does not have to follow it. There .is no whor knowtheec thos drciflesss the trimmed with black lace in hiines Spanish pan- the "Panta-Skirt," and the follow the limit they must necessahily anb prison staring her in the face if she does and colorfectanso on, ichmoileat in- nier form with' a panel of this same ma- smaller shows the tulle panels raised to curves or lack ol not; no social ostracism and no ill conse- formly reveal the serves terpretthat shena ai rng outsial dher-o terial hanging down-the front. exhibit the lines of the asene skirt from of their legs. Unfortunately all women quences at all. But there are ill conse- The trousers are finished somewhat like the other point of view. Both skirt and are not uniform in this respect-and few, quences if she does follow it. Why then thougts, mniorthy deore thighe ta Har- spats over the slippers in gold lace. And are of orange vel'vet screened with indeed, are up to what one may call a true does she do it? bting dondhi shnerouwiT conte rom one which with bertin asoreeonandfindependen whfc hany here is of the opportunities for taste purple tulle, sparkles an edg- A Back View of the Sam Dress, standard of beauty so far as these natural Some time ago I outlined this point of and beauty in this new . The hesr, ing of amethyst sequins and fringes. line. are concerned. And so we have the view in two paragraphs. I can do no bet- soneugh mprtons . rycninal (If it may so be of thee double skirt This gown an element Showing the Oyerskirt Arrange- called, possesses unumtgal ment of Tulle Dropping from spectacle of all kinds and shapes/oft varie- tes than quote them. I said: or ve there,any deoeitflneswith thiding affords att opportunity for ingenuity and of originality, a very important thing to the Shoulders. ties of legs starting in to reveal themselves "I know that it is urged that Eve, our an idrfeios orter, hgher thoug ts. e taste to a very great degree. And also, achieve in the highly developed field of a set line of the skirt! How absurd this first mother, was never burdened with unoruagaelet may ess Eve one at knos tha omnal oyhsbl and manifestly, here is the danger point. The women's dress. It is thoroughly Parisian This design may be varied to display is and how ugly it oftentimes ii many clothes. I hare had some women pwdsa- the outline moniesfrleaeon upt now adrs ofher-sul. trousers ends must not be over obtrusive. about the corsage and has a slight touch of the lower limbs to a greater So it was and is-although to a some- actually point to this as a justifieation for Tthought unotuff dwireh hingw thae SThey must seem as normal as the hem of of Orient about the or less degree. There are, unhappily, much what decreasing degree-of the so-called the mhysterious as their own undress. But what they forggt ouigig a dtangros. Theysemne fro the tight-fitting skirt ever was. ankles-a rather odd and com- things knock-knees and bowlegs, and bare-back gowns. Once they became the ctoie ortnsofthmn which ecohe surprising no good is done by calling attention to vogue and women blipdly followed the is that Eve came fresh from the hands of The bodice of this gown is festooned in bination. them. Some women are endowed with a lead. What a spectacle were the restau- her Creator, and must have been, there- handmade stuffed taffeta flowers studded I am sure that these reasons will com- neat pair of ankclee and the beginning of rants, the theatres, and so oul For every fore, a thing of perfec't beauty. Through Ornoe. Adin aure ay tha h rnle with brilliant.. A beck view shows the mend the design strongly to my readers what nature intended to be a perfect mod' one whose beauty took it away from any the manifold ages woman has, in her mul- dressentiwoan's body a e and pow-th who naturally desire to contribute a dash long scarf effect which shadows the ei, and the "panta gown" will mnake the suggestion of immodesty-because the tiplication, departed from the original Ideal erful alitionsoihrhc desofhr.ol of originality .to a frequiently monotonous moat of much a modicum of beaty. truly beautiful ta never anythIng but good -a pienalty no doubt of the succumbing trouser girt and gives the final touch of world, while observing the truest rules of There is certainly nothing about this de- -there were ten at least that made one to the temptation in Eden and one of the tamlnine mystery to it. wiast eave.. that pl.ace ....aay caseqanent numinhamant=.