FASHION TIMELINE 1900 -C 1950

By Maggie Picco Women’s Trends 1900-1910 Maggie Picco

Progressive Era – A period of widespread social activism and political reform across the USA Figure 1 that spanned the 1890s to the 1920s The 1900s was the first full decade of the Gibson Girl – The personification of the Progressive Era, which included movements feminine ideal of physical attractiveness as such as industrialization, urbanization, portrayed by the pen-and-ink illustrations by immigration and prohibition.. artist Charles Dana Gibson

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The ideal beauty of the 1900s was the ‘Gibson Figure 1 – Example of the s-bend , Girl’. Popular trends included the s-bend corset, creating the popular pouter-pigeon shape the pouter-pigeon shape, and puffed frilly desired for this era. blouses embellished with decorations such as Figure 2 – Two photos displaying the , ribbons or flowers. Trains were popular at the popular in the early 1900s. beginning of the decade, yet hemlines later Figure 3 – Pen-and-ink Gibson Girls, ideal rose to ankle length towards the 1910s. woman of the 1900s. Figure 2 Women’s Fashion Trends 1910-1920 Maggie Picco

Orientalism – Style, artefacts, or traits considered characteristics of the peoples and cultures of Asia. The 1910s was a decade of tragedy. Influences – Full, loose-fitting pants made of for fashion included the sinking of the Titanic, a soft material that is gathered closely at the Figure 1 the rebirth of the KKK, and the beginning of ankle or lower leg. World War One at the middle of the decade in Hobble – A style of skirt so narrow at the 1914. hem as to impede walking.

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Major trends of the 1910s included the introduction of Harem pants, the rise of Figure 1 – Example of a ‘Titanic’ era . orientalism, higher waistlines and hemlines, Figure 2 – Harem pants in the early 1900s. and the Hobble Skirt. also went out of Figure 3 – The hobble skirt. fashion. Figure 4 – Example of daily wear in the 1910s.

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Figure 3 Women’s Fashion Trends 1920-1930 Maggie Picco

Androgyny – The quality or state of being neither feminine or masculine. Speakeasy – During prohibition, an illicit liquor The decade, informally known as the Roaring store or nightclub. Twenties was influenced by the androgynous Flapper Girl – Young women known for their look. Speakeasies and Flapper girls were a energetic freedom. Flappers pushed barriers in statement to this decade. economic, political and sexual freedom for women. Influences Figure 1 Definitions 20XX 20XX 20XX 20XX 20XX Major Trends Index

Androgyny was now the fashionable look. Figure 1 – Example of a ‘Flapper Girl” dress. Silhouettes were cylindrical, and simplicity was of utmost importance. Women wore Figure 2 – Two pictures displaying the to create a boyish look, and androgynous style of dress in the 1920s. shorter hemlines as well as dropped waistlines helped achieve the desired look. Cloche hats Figure 2 and jewelry such as brooches and pearls were popular as well. Women’s Fashion Trends 1930-1940 Maggie Picco

The 1930s was the decade of the Great The Great Depression - The long and severe Depression, beginning in 1929. The USA and recession in the economy in 1929 and following Hollywood specifically became the fashion years. Figure 1 center of the western world, and femininity was Bias-Cut – the diagonal cut of a fabric to help favored over Androgyny. accentuate body lines and curves.

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The 1930s saw the rise of femininity, and the Bias-Cut, a man-made dress made of silk that Figure 1 – Example of the Bias-Cut, and the clung to a woman’s curves. Satin evening femininity favored in this time period. with low backs were popular, and during Figure 2 – Example of the low back silk the day wool with shoulder pads and fox adored by women of this period. fur collars were styled with knee length . Figure 3 – Finger waves paired with silk dresses Hair styled into finger waves adorned small in the 1930s. hats embellished with feathers or floral details.

Figure 3 Women’s Fashion Trends 1940-1950 Maggie Picco

CC41 – British Board of Trade logo that was World War Two began in 1939, influencing featured on British utility . Stood for fashion for most of the decade. The rationing of “Civilian Clothing 1941”. fabrics created the need of different styles of ’s ‘New Look’ – ’s debut haute dresses and skirts. After the War, Christian couture collection. Its most prominent features Dior’s ‘New Look’ brought back the fashion included round shoulders, a cinched waist, and from before the war. a full A-line skirt. Figure 1 Influences Definitions

20XX 20XX 20XX 20XX 20XX 20XX 20XX Major Trends Index The 1940s saw a shortage of fabrics due to World War Two, so skirts and dresses were Figure 1 – Two examples of Dior’s ‘New Look’ straight and knee length. There were few debut in 1947 pleats and no trimming, styled with boxy Figure 2 – Two examples of daily wear for jackets that featured broad padded shoulders. women during World War Two. Shorter skirts Many items of clothing had the CC41 stamp. In and more modest, durable clothing with boxy 1947, Dior’s ‘New Look” brought back long full jackets. skirts, sloping shoulder and cinched waists into Figure 2 the fashion scene. Women’s Fashion Trends 1950s Maggie Picco

The 1950s saw the rise of designer brands such as Givenchy, Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, and Separates – women’s outer garments that only Charles James. These brands influenced the go over part of the body and are worn in Figure 1 fashion scene for most of the 50s, along with combination with other pieces such as skirts, stars such as Marilyn Monroe. blouses and .

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20XX 20XX 20XX Figure 2 20XX 20XX 20XX 20XX Major Trends Index Figure 1 – Christian Dior woolen dress, 1950- Much like the end of the 1940s, Dior’s ‘New 51. Look’ carried into the 50s. The narrow was also popular along with day dresses in Figure 2 – Charles James silk evening , tweed or woolens. Separates were back in 1953. fashion, as well as waist length cardigans. Pill- Figure 3 – Marilyn Monroe, August 1950, on the Figure 4 box styled hats were worn over cropped hair set of Asphalt Jungle. set in curls. Others chose to wear it long and Figure 4 – Balenciaga, 1972. The future of tied back in a simple ponytail. designer brands.

Figure 3 REFERENCES Alexander, Ella. “Style File: Marilyn Monroe.” British Vogue, British Vogue, 14 Aug. 2019, www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/marilyn- monroe-style-file?image=5d545cfcea07410008b94198. Museum, Victoria and Albert. “History of Fashion 1900 - 1970.”C History of Fashion 1900 - 1970, Victoria and Albert Museum, Cromwell Road, South Kensington, London SW7 2RL. Telephone +44 (0)20 7942 2000. Email [email protected], 25 Sept. 2015, www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-fashion-1900-1970/. Reddy, Karina. “1950-1959.” Fashion History Timeline, 2 June 2019, fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1950-1959/. Shirkey, Lindsay. “A Brief History of Western Fashion 1900-1950.” Museum Center at 5ive Points, Museum Center at 5ive Points, 29 Mar. 2019, www.museumcenter.org/the-curious-curator/2019/3/15/a-brief-history-of-western-fashion-1900-1950#. Sowray, Bibby. “Christian Dior.” British Vogue, British Vogue, 15 Aug. 2019, www.vogue.co.uk/article/christian-dior. ALL PHOTOS AND TEXT FOUND ON THESE WEBSITES. NONE OF THE PHOTOS ARE EDITED OR MINE.