SWAZILAND Swaziland Swaziland 574 © Lonelyplanetpublications Also Boasts Superb Walking and an Excellent Selection Ofhigh-Qualityhandicrafts

SWAZILAND Swaziland Swaziland 574 © LonelyPlanetPublications also boasts superb walking and an excellent selection ofhigh-qualityhandicrafts. andanexcellentselection also boastssuperbwalking instunning mountainpanoramasandalively traditionalculture.rafting, taking Swaziland suchas rewarding activities adrenaline-boosting wildlife-watching, anddelightfullylow-key havehas fadedfastandthecountry’strueattractions cometothefore. Visitors canenjoy SouthAfrica. thisreputationpleasures Sincethedismantlingofapartheid inapartheid-era racial animosities,it’sacomplete changeofpacefromitslarger neighbours. and heritage,relaxed ambience. Withitslaid-back,friendlypeopleandrelative lackof smallest countriesinAfrica. Whatthecountrylacksinsize, upforinitsrichculture itmakes Embedded betweenMozambique ofSwazilandisonethe andSouthAfrica, thekingdom p583 ), youcanhave atantalisingtaste oftheculture forwhichSwazilandissorenowned. festivals, notablytheIncwalaceremony ortheUmhlanga(Reed)dance(seeboxed text, Ifyoucomeduringoneofthenational Park, lingering at leastaweek. butit’swellworth hotels andupscaleretreats. Manytravellers aflyingvisitontheirwaytoKrugerNational make modation tosuitevery taste, ranging fromadecentnetworkofhostels tofamily-friendly and theZulus, ithasfostered asenseofnationalpride,andlocalculture isflourishing. chy hasitscritics,butcombinedwiththeSwazis’historyofresistance totheBoers,British Overseeing all this is King MswatiIII,oneofthreeOverseeing allthisisKing remaining monarchsinAfrica. The monar- Swazilandwasknownprimarilyforitscasinosandnightclubs–forbidden During apartheid,

HIGHLIGHTS

The excellentroadsystem Swazilandeasytoaccessandnavigate. makes There’s accom- POPULATION: 1.1 MILLION Exploringtheghosttownof Walking around Shootingwhite-water rapidsonthe Browsingthecraftshopsandroyalheart- Hiking in Watchingwildlife, includingrare blackrhinos Malkerns Valley ( p592 ) inthecountry’snorthwest land ofthe land’s mostenchantingwildernessareas Reserve in thewild,atexcellent bargain lodges ary River or Ngwempisi Gorge ( p586 ) andrelaxing initscomfortable (seetheboxed text, p595 ) (p594) Malolotja Nature Reserve Ezulwini Valley Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctu- (p587) ( p595 ), twoofSwazi- ( p582 ) andthe Mkhaya GameMkhaya Bulembu Usutu ( p590)

Mlilwane Wildlife AREA : 17,364 SQ KM Sanctuary Reserve Malolotja Nature Bulembu Malkerns Valley Usutu River Ezulwini Valley Ngwempisi Gorge Reserve Mkhaya Game and Boers jostledforpower inthearea.and Boers their territory whittled awayastheBritish the deals. for thekingfeaturing heavily insomeof granted toEuropeans,withbribesleases kingdom’s landwere alienated through Mbandzeni, increasing amountsof the at reining theminthanMswazi.Under carpetbaggers, and proved much weaker inherited akingdomrife with European sionaries. Mswazi’ssuccessor,Mbandzeni, cattle, aswellhunters, traders andmis- Euro pean farmers of insearch landfortheir began toattractincreasing numbers of nation were secure. 1868, thefoundationsof the youngSwazi ritory tothesouth.Bytimehediedin continued Zuluincursions onSwaziter- western Swaziland,largely inresponse to as farHhohho, inwhatisnownorth- also extended Swaziterritory northwards inunifyingthewholekingdom.Heceeded from theneighbouring Zulu,Mswazisuc- their name. Despite considerable pressure (or Mswati),after whomtheSwazitake the thronewasrenowned KingMswazi royalty andritual.FollowingSobhuza Ion ley, which stillremains thecentre of Swazi intheEzulwiniVal- abase who established Ngwane IIItohave theirfirst been king. Swazi heartland,andtoday,Swazisconsider Thisbecamethefirstern KwaZulu-Natal. present-day southernSwazilandandnorth- people southwesttothePongolaRiver, in area, theDlaminiking,NgwaneIII,ledhis creasing pressure fromotherclansinthe the mid-18thcentury,inresponse toin- tually foundingtheDlaminidynasty.In present-day Maputo (Mozambique),even- intheareaof groupssettled around these of thegreat migrations( Bantu p32 ). One had madetheirwaytotheregion aspart By aroundAD500,variousNgunigroups ancestors tomuch more recent arrivals. today’sSwazistracetheir land. However, ineastern Mountains Swazi- the Lebombo 100,000 years have discovered been around remains possiblydatingbackasfar inhabited formillennia,andhuman-like The area that isnow Swaziland hasbeen ofaNation Beginnings The www.lonelyplanet.com HISTORY HISTORY Over the next decades, the Swazis saw thenextdecades, theSwazissaw Over From themid-19thcentury,Swaziland It wasNgwane’ssuccessor,Sobhuza I, SWAZILAND••History tectorate. British tookcontrolof Swaziland asapro- War ( p37 withdrew), theBoers andthe Anglo-Boer In 1902,followingthesecond world’s longest-reigning monarch. Most tution vesting allpower intheking. parliament reconvened underanewconsti- accord withSwazi culture. Four years later pended itonthegroundsthat didnot British creation, andin1973thekingsus- British protectorate. tember 1968,66years of after thestart the remarkably nonviolentpath–on6Sep- achieved –theculminationof alongand Independencewasfinally won alltheseats. a majority. Atthenext elections,in1967,it agreed toelectionsin1964,Mbokodvowon discrimination. WhentheBritishfinally itional Swaziculture whileeschewing racial Movement, which pledged trad- tomaintain was theMbokodvo(Grindstone)National Swazi politicalpartiesformedatthistime accordance withSwaziculture. Oneof the lines, andaNationalCouncilformedin ofposed Europeanselected alongEuropean creation of Council,tobecom- aLegislative back theirlands. moneytobuy South Africa,inparttoraise labourers in theWitwatersrand minesof workasmigrantSwazis beganseeking ture. Itwasalsoduringthistimethatmany monarchy andtheviabilityof Swazicul- foreigners threatened thecredibility of the large proportionof the countryownedby political andeconomicissue. Having a land ownership isthusmore thanjusta the kingdomintrustfortheirsubjects,and ment, asSwazikingsare considered tohold Swazi control.Thiswasamajor develop- two-thirds of thekingdomwasagainunder By thetimeof independencein1968,about and inpartbyBritish government decree. This wasdoneinpartbydirect purchase regaining much of theiroriginalterritory. in huza wasachild), theSwazissucceeded of hismotheractingasregent whileSob- Sobhuza II(guidedbythecapablehands independence. Undertheleadership of King centred for aroundtheongoingstruggle Swazi historyintheearly20thcentury Struggle forIndependence Sobhuza IIdiedin1982,at thattimethe The first Swaziconstitutionwaslargely a the In 1960KingSobhuza IIproposed

575 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND 576 (25km) To Badplaas MR19 (335km) Middelburg) (via Carolina& To Johannesburg SWAZILAND Bothasnek Waverley Paulpietersburg Nerston Piet Retief 33 R Houtkop (SOUTH AFRICA) SWAZILAND Nelshoogte Pass Sandlane MPUMALANGA Bothashoop 17 N 38 R ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ MR18 Luphohlo Dam Mhlambanyatsi Lundzi

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Goba River 2 www.lonelyplanet.com seeable future.seeable Even reformers callonlyfor upper hand inSwazipolitics forthefore- will continuetoholdthe and hisadvisers of royalprivilege, it’s likely thattheking withrecent popular dissatisfaction abuses politicaltensionsspite andincreasing these there Yet, isaroyalbanonitsmeetings. de- forchange, agitating has longbeen though In addition,thetradeunionmovement both of which enjoyonlylimited support. and SwazilandYouthCongress (Swayoco), United DemocraticMovement (Pudemo) exist.Themainonesarebut several People’s quo.the status Swazis asdoinglittlemore thanpreserving byreform-mindedpromptly dismissed tion wasfinallyunveiled itwas –though commission, andin2003anewconstitu- the kingappointed aconstitutionalreview momentum over thepastdecade. In1996 for democraticchange hasslowlygained of andthemovement politicaldissent, theretion. However, isanundercurrent inthefaceofculture modernisa- survives and focusinstead onensuringthattheir perhaps apatheticto)theirpoliticalsystem, happywith(or isters). MostSwazisseem a smallcore of advisers(Councilof Min- Swaziland isrunbyKingMswatiIIIand Events Current and often asabsolute worse, monarch. hispre-eminence,and toassert forbetter thetraditionalSwaziwayofmaintain life, where hecontinues todaytorepresent and young MswatiIIIascendedthethrone, referred toas‘thelate king’.In1986the threat sincehisfather’sreign. He isstill existence of hiscountryandculture, under was hissuccessinensuringthecontinued significant amonghisaccomplishments Opposition partiesare banned, officially a manmarries,hemustpay in Swaziland.Oneofthemainreasons forthisisthatithasbecometooexpensive: eachtime ‘forced’ chastitywasimposedtofightthespread ofHIV/AIDS.Heendedthebanayearearly. teenage females.17 yearold,twomonthsafter sexbanonthekingdom’s imposingafive-year The MswatiIIIhas13wives.King wasthecentre The ofcontroversy king in2001whenhemarrieda putting thenumberofhiswives andmistresses atmore thandoublethisnumber. The current When SobhuzaIIdied,atage83,heleftabout120officialwives,King withunofficialestimates THE PILLAROFPOLYGAMY has ledtoanincrease inthenumberof‘informal’affairs. Despite thisproliferation ofspousesamongprominentfigures, formalpolygamyisdeclining SWAZILAND••Climate lobola (bride price–usuallycattle)tothefamilyofhisfiancé.This boxed text, p578 ). est HIVinfection rate intheworld(see swana asthecountrywithworld’shigh- Bot- AIDS: Swazilandhasnowsurpassed into sharp perspective isthescourge of donment. monarchy), ratherthanitscomplete aban- ing aconstitutionalinstead of anabsolute modification of themonarchy (demand- Parks Valley, which isprivately runby Wildlife Sanctuary( p586 ) inthe Ezulwini toget toisMlilwane topography. Easiest ing thetinycountry’simpressively diverse reflect-Swaziland hasfive mainreserves, NATIONAL PARKS &RESERVES frost. sometimes even west, winters and bringcool,crispnights months. Inthehigher-lying areas of the are common. May toAugustare thecoolest 40°Candtorrentialexceed thunderstorms and February, temperatures occasionally Decemberably coolerwinters. Between with rainy,steamy summers andagree- to thatof SouthAfrica’seastern lowveld, Most of Swazilandenjoysaclimate similar CLIMATE by the ( serve p583 ) in theEzulwiniValley, isrun ern lowveld andtinyMantenga Nature Re- ( Mlawula Nature Reserve p593 ) intheeast- known foritshiking trails.It,together with beautiful Malolotja ( Nature Reserve p590 ), and HlaneRoyalNationalPark ( p593 ). with blackrhinosandmanyother animals, ( GameReserve excellent Mkhaya p594 ), tion, andbothwellworthvisiting, are the at Mlilwane. jurisdic- Alsounderthesame constitutionalwranglings Putting these In thenorthwestern isthe highlands

( % National Trust Commission 528 3944;www.biggameparks.org)

( % Big Game Big Game 416 1151, , based , based

577 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND fice at theEzulwiniValley wini Valley) andabookingsrepresentative inLobamba(Ezul- the NationalMuseum from Maputo in Mozambique;see p625 . andDurbaninSouthAfrica and (Jo’burg) International Airport)fromJohannesburg There are intoSwaziland(Matasapha flights THERE&AROUND GETTING diseases. and p647 forinformationonavoiding these are both present in Swaziland;see p648 times. not flauntvaluablesandbevigilantatall ontouristsandlocalsinManzinitacks –do Therenight. anincrease inat- hasbeen precautions, especiallyatcommon-sense Street crimeinMbabane isrising,sotake DANGERS &ANNOYANCES chapterLanguage ( p651 ). the guage. Forinformation onSwati,see writtenlish, andEnglishistheofficial lan- languagesThe official are SwatiandEng- LANGUAGE 416 1178;www.sntc.org.sz) 578 express.com) bus connections, see bus connections, see p630 andforinforma- ofFor details borderposts,see p628 . For the region. ter within thekingdomandaround flights pany, Steffen AirCharters, operates char- Swazi Express Airways Swazi Express Schistosomiasis (bilharzia)andmalaria Most travellers enter Swazilandoverland. efforts. stigma attachedtoAIDS,whichhinderstheflowofcommunicationandhampersprevention routes),women, theaccessibilityofcountryandgoodroadsystem andthe (usefultrucking relations includethelegallackofequalityfor outsidethemarriage.contributingfactors Other in herhusband’sabsence).Insomecases,thedeclinepolygamyhasledtomore ‘informal’ suchaswidowinheritance(wherepractices awidowhasbeenentrusted toherbrother-in-law wives reasons orgirlfriends Other include cultural theyhave atrisk. leftbehind–are particularly mining, sugarandtimberindustries)thaninSwaziland,thesepopulations–includingthe have losteitheroneorbothparents tothedisease. population ispredicted tobedeadfromthediseaseby2010,andalready over 60,000children ofSwaziland’s bythenationalhealthministry,one-quarter 3.9% in1992).Accordingtoasurvey rate intheworld–around39%ofadultpopulationSwazilandisHIVpositive (compared to Swaziland hasnowsurpassedBotswanaasthecountrywithworld’shighestHIVinfection HIV/ AIDS ( % SWAZILAND ••Language There are manypossiblereasons forthis:more SwazisworkinSouthAfrica (primarilyinthe 404 2531;www.welcometoswaziland.com) , together withitssister com- , withitsheadofficeat

( tourist informationof- tourist % 518 6840;www.swazi . sections of areassections these fordetails. Around theGetting ley andManzini. See inMbabane,theEzulwiniVal-private taxis of covering minibuses thecountry.There are ing carhire, see p635 . tion ondrivingaroundSwaziland,includ- the coolerclimate inthehills. it in1902toMbabane totake advantage of inManzini,ally hadtheirbase butmoved ing ruralareas. making itasharp contrasttothesurround- asurgeseen incommercialdevelopment, Mbabane isgrowingfastandhasrecently Ezulwini Valley hasmostof theattractions. options andabusymarket, butthe adjacent handful of OKrestaurants, accommodation a goodplacetoget thingsdone. There’s a a lovely intheDlangeni Hills,andis setting plain, it’sarelaxed andfunctionalplacein though sound grand,butit’snot.However, Mbabane (pronouncedmm-bah-bahn), may andsecond-largestSwaziland’s capital city, pop 60,000 MBABANE centre. itssouthernend isSwazi Just off thetown north–souththrough runs roughly (or both). ally, peoplewillstill refer totheoldname capturedbeen onofficial maps. Occasion- over recent tohave years andseem finally Street namesinMbabane have changed been Orientation Once inSwaziland,there isagoodnetwork During thecolonialera,Britishorigin- The mainstreet is Gwamile St,which www.lonelyplanet.com side, and informationon the reverse. Mbabane, Manzini andSwaziland onone www.lonelyplanet.com The MAPS inany outlying B&Bs. you’ll bestaying wind over thehills, andacarishandyif streets becomegreen andresidential asthey ily negotiated onfoot.Awayfromhere, the shopping centre, theMall. across thestreet isMbabane’sothermain ternet centre andagood range of shops.Just information office,banksandATMs, anIn- Plaza, alarge shoppingmallwiththetourist .welcometoswaziland.com; 9am-4pm Fri, 9am-1pmSat) 9am-4pm Fri, (22km); Badplaas(75km) Oshoek BorderPost To SibebeRock(8km); Grifters (300m) House (100m); To Veki'sGuest

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Rd (109 Dzeliwe St) The most cutting-edge (109Dzeliwe St)Themostcutting-edge TRANSPORT SHOPPING DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Taxi Rank...... (see19) Bus Station...... (see19) Bus &MinibusTaxiPark...... Indingilizi Gallery&Restaurant...... (see14) African Fantasy...... (see2) Jazz Friends...... Swazi Market...... (see10) Spar...... (see 2) Shoprite...... (see 7) Plaza TandooriRestaurant...... (see7) Pablo's...... Mediterranean Restaurant...... La CasseroleRestaurant...... Kowloon FastFood...... (see2) Indingilizi Gallery&Restaurant...... Hwa Li...... B2 Finesse...... (see 2) 4 WaysChicken...... Thokoza ChurchCentre...... City Inn...... (see17) Swazi Market...... Webster's...... (see 2) Webster's...... US Embassy...... Tourist InformationOffice...... Tink BigBizNet...... Standard Bank&ATM...... (see7) South AfricanHighCommission...... (see2) Royal SwaziNationalAirwaysOffice....(see7) Post Office...... NedBank...... (see 7) Mbabane Pharmacy...... Mbabane Clinic...... Internet Centre...... (see7) Internet Centre...... Harvey WorldTravel...... (see7) First NationalBank...... CNA...... (see 2) 0.2miles 300m 0 0 D 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

579 B3 B3 B3 B2 B2 B2 C2 C2 B3 B2 C3 B3 B2 C3 B2 A4 A3 B3 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND What .welcometoswaziland.com; credit cards. travellers cheques,andhasanATM thatacceptsmost international (though not reverse-charge) callshere. international (thoughnotreverse-charge) reliable. Youcanalsomake though it’snotparticularly of anddan- therock iscompletely sheer, over thesurrounding countryside. Much Sibebe Rock good butpriceycrafts andfresh produce. Market ity inMbabaneformosttravellers. The careand taking of errandsisthemainactiv- Walking aroundthetowncentre, shopping Sights &Activities Royal SwaziNationalAirwaysOffice WorldTravel Harvey TRAVEL AGENCIES informationoffice Tourist TOURIST INFORMATION Post office POST Standard Bank Nedbank First NationalBank Valley. outside Mbabane inthenearbyEzulwini Plaza, andattheRoyalSwaziSunHotel andNedbankinSwazi Bank the Standard ATMs thatacceptinternational cardsare at MONEY Mbabane Pharmacy just offthebypassroad. emergencies trythisclinicinthesouthwestcorneroftown Mbabane Clinic MEDICAL SERVICES 580 cheques. Helpful with booking regional flights. Helpful withbooking ment fortravellerscheques). yourpurchaseagree- cash andtravellerscheques(bring StandardBankalsochanges ‘international transactions’. and othertravelarrangements. SwaziPlaza)Canassistwithflightbookings world.co.za; Bibles – Theseincludethetourist restaurants andentertainment. free publicationswiththelatestonhotels, of various In additiontomapsandbrochures, youcanpickupcopies 9am-1pmSat)AttheedgeofSwaziPlaza. 9am-4pm Fri, town centre andwellstocked. About 8kmnortheastof Mbabane is ’ s oninSwaziland SWAZILAND ••Mbabane is sometimes worth a browse, with issometimesworthabrowse, What (SwaziPlaza)Changescashandtravellers (MsunduzaSt)There’s poste restante here, ’ , amassive granite dome hulking s HappeninginSwaziland (Swazi Plaza) Use the machine marked (Swazi Plaza)Usethemachinemarked ( % . (MsunduzaSt)Changescashand ( 404 2423; St Michael’s Rd)For 404 2423;StMichael’s ( % % h 404 2817;GwamileSt)Inthe 404 1538;www.harvey ( 9am-4.45pm Mon-Thu, % 404 2531;www andthesmaller (SwaziPlaza) Swazi Swazi Trails and relish looking downsteep rock-faces. adrenalin charge ifyou’re reasonably fit gerous ifyoushouldfall,butit’sagood s/d withshared bathroomE125/160,s/dE190/210) off SomhloloRd. off onlyandlocated matters. It’s self-catering friendly owners, whocanorganise travel dorms have ashave lifted thestandard, the for travellers andaidworkers. New A-frame of thetowncentre, isapopularhang-out withinwalkingdistance house, ably scruffy up therock. Ezulwini Valley takes nontechnical climbs Grifters BUDGET nearby Manzini, which haslimited appeal. more, itis a better placetoovernight than accommodation, butifyoucanpayabit Mbabane isabitshort ondecentbudget Sleeping Trails main operatoristhevery keyed-in their itineraries.OnceinSwaziland,the include short detours intoSwazilandin Many of thetouroperators listed on p641 Tours ings.com/cathmar; 233GilfillanSt; s/d E220/300) for details. Hotel inManzini tourist office –see p588 atTum’sGeorge isMyxowhobased tact tours towherever you’dlike togo. ley, which canorganise rafting, hikes and the Mantenga inEzulwiniVal- CraftCentre rooms with DSTV andmeals onrequest. rooms with DSTV mended by expatSwazis. There are seven hippyfeel, this placecomesrecom-slightly overpriced witha andnondescripthouse shared bathroomE165) .com; EndSt;campsitesperpersonE45,dmE75,dwith (E20 fromSwaziPlaza). for about10minutes. Take atnight ataxi andhead upPolinjaneRd the policestation bridge atthebottomof thehill,turnleftat on foot,turnontoMhlonhloSt, cross the be arranged. Toget here fromGwamileSt you toMbabane. Inexpensive mealscan bejustthethingtoconvertrooms might tingly monasticinnature, smallclean these Thokoza ChurchCentre Thokoza For ataste of ruralSwazilife, agoodcon- Veki’s GuestHouse Veki’s

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( % www.lonelyplanet.com 404 8485;www.swazilodg 404 6681;PolinjaneRd; , based in , based Fairly Swazi Fit- in .com/cathmar; 167 Lukhalo St;rfromE200-320; .com/cathmar; 167Lukhalo with flags. off theMR3;watch forthewallpainted to E65).It’sabout 5kmfromMbabanejust the chef whoprepares àlacarte meals(E26 plants andparaphernalia–are busierthan abode. Therooms – complete with shells, from themassive porch of thiscomfortable a locallizardandoverlook thegreenery west wing. Askshabby stay. foraroominthenewer are themostcolourfulpartof arather central hotel –andMbabaneinstitution olive green bathroomsinthecity’smost Cathmar Cottages Cathmar MIDRANGE &TOPEND www.lonelyplanet.com s/d inclbreakfast fromE350/490; priced tours of Swaziland. canalsoorganise reasonably tiny pool.Staff own balconyandmassive bathroom,anda the centre. There’s afamilyroom withits in aquiethilltoplocationabout5kmfrom March spotlessplaceis 2005),thisbright, value B&B(undernewmanagement since St; s/dinclbreakfast E300/390) .za; s&dwithhalfboardfromE445) .za; from Mbabane. Ifyou’re leaving Swaziland to know about Swaziland. FollowtheMR19 theowner knowsalltheretop italloff, is are recommended). (reservations To buffet gorge atthe large andpopularSunday lunch Luphohlo Dam).Gourmandscangracefully ridingandwaterhorse sportsonthenearby a smorgasbord of activities(troutfishing, are cosyroomsandattractive gardens plus lent alternative inthe city.There tosleeping itmakes anexcel- Place of theBuffaloes), the hillsaroundMhlambanyatsi(Watering Situated 27kmsouthwestof Mbabanein make thisSwaziland’s‘CountryEstate’. cream teas andBritish-styleinteriors that athomehere.be right Butit’snotjustthe (from BBC-TV’s also available. and range Meals fromOKtopleasant. are Pine Valley andminifridge, Rd).Allhave TV about 3.5kmnorthof thetowncentre (off garden onahilloverlooking SibebeRock, style cabinsdotted aroundaquietresidential cottages anddolls-house– ous self-catering _eden.co.sz; s/dinclbreakfast E390/650) Foresters Arms Foresters Jacana Lodge Kapola GuestHouse Kapola City Inn

( % 404 2406;[email protected]; Gwamile ( %

( % ( To the Manor Born % 405 0277;www.jacanalodge.co.sz; 467 4177;www.forestersarms.co SWAZILAND••Mbabane

404 3387;www.swazilodgings ( % Thered carpetand s 404 0906;www.kapola Penelope Keith ) Anothergood- Lay backlike Lay s ) would ) Vari- mile St;mainsE49-100; E40-80; 6km from Mbabane off themainhighway. 6km fromMbabaneoff best vegetarian optionsaround.It’sabout for aKing’lives uptoitsname. It’sgotthe of ‘Queen Swazi food fit this self-proclaimed breakfast, lunch anddinner. restaurant (mainsfromE45),openfor looking over thevalleyfrominviting bience, pool,library,lawnandpanoramas supplemented byitsluxuriousgenteel am- herewith stains andthere. Theroomsare is athrowbacktothecolonialera,complete mains E49-80; soups. spot forspringrolls,chow meinandspicy Plaza; mainsE32-85; fast fromE20; and fattyfries. grease burger –justtheplaceforbeefy on offer. morsels Portuguese Indian curries andtasty atmosphere isforgotten thankstothe spicy St; mainsfromE35; border postnearSandlane. along theMR19andexitviaNerston from here, youcancontinuesouthwest s/d inclbreakfast fromE525/670; Pablo’s Eating is the tastiest henquarteris thetastiest inSwaziland. pricesthis It ain’tnothin’fancy,butatthese of theinternational. ries, theusualgrillsandburgers addatouch the atmosphere. As wellasgreat-value cur- size of theTaj Mahal, got butit’scertainly gallery. andcraftshoppingattheadjoining serts andsimilarfare,salads plusdecadentdes- ian dishes,plusagoodwineselection. including pizzas.Italsooffers afew vegetar- andinternational cuisine, German serves friendlyplace name, butthislong-standing Sat) meals fromE22-45; [email protected]; 112DzeliweSt;snacksfromE22,light Indingilizi Gallery &Restaurant Gallery Indingilizi La Casserole Restaurant La Casserole 4 WaysChicken Mountain Inn Plaza Tandoori Restaurant Plaza Tandoori Restaurant eDladleni Hwa Li Mediterranean Restaurant Mediterranean Thissmalloutdoorcaféoffers quiches, h

( %

lunch &dinner) ( % 404 2406;GwamileSt;burgersfromE12,break- h

h ( % 404 5986; Dhlan’ubeka House,Mhlonhlo 404 5986;Dhlan’ubeka breakfast, lunch&dinner) lunch &dinner) h

404 5743; Manzini/Mbabane Hwy; mains Hwy;mains 404 5743;Manzini/Mbabane

( (Gwamile St;mainsE13; h % h lunch &dinnerMon-Sat) h 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2pm 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 404 2781;www.mountaininn.sz; lunch &dinner) lunch &dinner) Out there onitsown,

( % ais It’sgotaFrench

( 404 6426;GwamileSt; ( % % 404 7599;Swazi It’snotthe

404 3212,Gwa- ( Smell that Smellthat h % The bland ) Thisinn Agood 7am-6pm) 404 6213; 581

SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND hang-out. food vendors at Spar attheMall. Forfastfood,trythestreet dian Oceanflavour. andmeatdishes,manywithanIn- seafood agoodrange ofered terrace, andserves place offers underacov- afanciersetting end of thevalley(from E100),andstillmore wini Valley costfromE50, more to thefar the CityInn.Nonshared totheEzul- taxis near you canalsousuallyfindataxi night, the transportpark behind SwaziPlaza. At bypass road. the EzulwiniValley, mosttake the although 35 minutes) andpointseastpassthrough All vehicles headingtowardsManzini (E7, utes), andMalkerns Valley (E7, 45minutes). and theOshoek borderpost(E5,50min- PeakPiggs (E12.50,onehour),Ngwenya Mozambique. on connectionsto/fromSouthAfricaand Manzini. See p622 formore information yourbestbetistocatch onefromwise for Jo’burg earlyinthemorning;other- behind SwaziPlaza.leave Minibustaxis parkisjust The mainbusandminibustaxi &Around There Getting 8.30am-2pm Sat) [email protected]; 112DzeliweSt; &Restaurant Gallery Indingilizi Shopping Plaza Bar for nightlife (see p585 ). InMbabane, try Most peopleheadtotheEzulwiniValley Drinking 582 Kowloon Fast FoodintheMall. h and theGablesShopping ( Centre p585 ). a branch atMantenga ( CraftCentre p585 ) locally madeT-shirts andcards;italsohas African Fantasy offers agreat of selection artists. art andcraftworkbycontemporary Swazi some interesting oldpieces, andexcellent a look.There istraditionalcraft,including cratic collectionthat’spriceybutwellworth haunt. Finesse There’s aShoprite atSwaziPlazaanda Nonshared congregate taxis justoutside There daily to are minibustaxis several African Fantasy African lunch &dinnerMon-Sat) SWAZILAND ••EzulwiniValley Jazz Friends (SwaziPlaza) ( % Thisgalleryhasanidiosyn- 404 5936; the Mall; mainsE69-100;404 5936;theMall;

Swazi Market (

% (Gwamile St) , apopularlocalboozy 404 0205;Shop11,theMall) ThisFrench-owned h isanotherlocal (

% 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, (Msunduza St) 404 6213;indin ; or dence) during theIncwala ceremony or the to the activities, trailsandtoursalloverthekingdom. activities, andorganisesaplethoraof Nature Reserves and Mantenga Mlawula forMalolotja, bookings Centre. Italsotakes Craft ist informationisavailablehere, basedattheMantenga inLobamba. Museum it’sbasedattheNational Nature Reserves, and Mantenga oftheMlawula,Malolotja www.sntc.org.sz) Headquarters Airport, expecttopayfromE140. if hired ToMatsapha atnight. International ary, Mkhaya Game Reserve andHlaneRoyalNationalPark. Reserve Game ary, Mkhaya itforaccommodationinMlilwaneWildlife Sanctu- Contact .org) AccessedthroughtheMlilwaneWildlife Sanctuary. Friendly Whistle Internet Cafe WhistleInternet Friendly Parks Big Game Centre. There are ATMs attheGablesShopping Information the bestcraftshoppinginSouthernAfrica. of hereselection placestostay andsomeof There’sthe surroundingmountains. agood trees, floweringjacarandasandviewsover land scenery,withbrilliantorange flame just infromtheroadissomebeautifulwood- mosphere deter you: along somesections MR103. Don’tletthetacky-hotel-strip at- totake theold lush countryside,you’llneed and thesights MR3 bypassroad,buttosee onthe family. It’spossibletowhizthrough hometotheSwaziroyal history, ithasbeen Lobamba, 18kmaway.Formostof Swazi outside Mbabane andextends downpast heartland andtourismcentre. Itbeginsjust as theregion iscalled,Swaziland’sroyal The Ezulwini Valley, orValley of Heaven EZULWINI VALLEY House allowed. Swazikings nowlive in It isn’topentovisitors, andphotos aren’t tire royalclan(Sobhuza IIhad600children). theen- grand proportions,asithadtohouse PalaceState wasbuiltbythe British–in days of theSwazimonarchy. TheroyalEmbo Valley –apositionithasheldsincetheearly Lobamba istheheartof Swaziland’sRoyal Lobamba Swazi Trails National TrustCommission opposite theHappyValley Motel. h To see the monarchy inaction,headTo see 8.30am-6.30pm) In the Gables ShoppingCentre, 8.30am-6.30pm) IntheGables , about10kmfrom Lobamba. Royal Kraal ( % ( 416 2180;www.swazitrails.co.sz) Tour- % (Eludzidzini RoyalResi- 528 3943;www.biggameparks ( www.lonelyplanet.com % (perhalfhrE38; 416 1151,1178; Lozitha State State Lozitha 6pm). www.lonelyplanet.com occasions, such ascoronations. state (mainlysoccer)andimportant events Somhlolo NationalStadium north of here, towardsthemain road,is above ). It’snexttoLozitha Just House. State theboxed dance(see Umhlanga (Reed) text, tenga Nature Reserve Reserve Nature tenga adult/child E25/15. andmemorialcosts to boththemuseum the mostrevered of Swazikings.Aticket museum isa museum side entrance. Across theroadfrom the want tovisit,wearneatclothesand use which issometimesopentovisitors; ifyou enclosure. as atraditionalbeehive village andcattle interesting displaysof Swaziculture, aswell h The nearby About 3km fromMantenga Lodge is Next to the museum isthe Next tothemuseum burning ofalltheitems usedintheceremony, after whichtherainsare expected tofall. thesignthatSwaziscaneatnewyear’scrops. Twodayslatereats apumpkin, there’s aritual the regiments comesoutofhisretreat ofSwaziland,theking anddancesbefore hispeople. He and the young manbearingithashadillicitsex.Songsprohibited duringtherest oftheyearare sung, dawn, andusetheirbranchestobuildakraal.Ifbranchhaswilted, itisseenasasignthatthe lusekwane, foamfromthewaves. goesintoretreat.to skim Meanwhile, theking watercollect fromSwaziland’srivers andsometravel acrossthemountainstoIndianOcean moon. year. Preparation fortheIncwalabegins someweeksinadvance,accordingtothecycleof fruits’ ceremony, gives where theking permissionforhispeopletoeatthefirstcropsofnew Incwala (alsoknownasNcwala)isthemostsacred ceremony oftheSwazipeople. Itisa‘first Incwala SWAZI CEREMONIES an incentive toavoidpremarital sex. of potential wives fortheking. As withtheIncwala,there are signsthatidentifytheunchaste – have searchedforreeds bynight;thosewithred feathers intheirhairare princesses. reeds tothequeenmother. The danceisrepeated day.Those thenext carryingtorches(flashlights) astheycarrytheir daythereed night.Onthesixth returning danceisperformed untilthefourth from allover tohelprepair thequeenmother’shomeatLobamba. thekingdom aweeklongdebutantesomething like ballformarriageableyoungSwaziwomen,whojourney drawing thenationtogetherandreminding thepeopleoftheirrelationship totheking. Itis Though in notassacred asimilarfunction astheIncwala,Umhlanga(Reed)danceserves Dance (Reed) Umhlanga 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pmSat&Sun) 8am-4pm Mon-Fri, The ticket costcovers entranceto the On the third day of the ceremony a bull is sacrificed. On the fourth day,tothepleadingsofallOn thethirddayofceremony abullissacrificed.Onthefourth branchesoftheOn thenightoffullmoon,youngmenallover harvest thekingdom As theSwaziqueenmothermustnotbeofroyalclan,reed danceisalsoashowcase After arrivingatLobamba,theyspendadayresting, thensetoffinsearchofreeds, somenot Bemanti bemanti a smalltree, andbegin totheRoyalKraalatLobamba. alonghike They arrive at memorial National Museum (learnedmen)journeytotheLebombo Mountainstogatherplants;other arrive withtheirplants,water andfoam. SWAZILAND••EzulwiniValley (adult/child E45/11; toKingSobhuzaII, , which hostssports

(adult/child E20/10; (adult/child E20/10; parliament has some hassome h Man- 7am- , h dance take guidedtours and watch the and culturaldisplays,it’spossibleto cultural village hasauthenticbeehive huts Royal Valley’s own visit onguidedwalks. arereserve, relief fromtheheat.Nearby,andpartof the monkeys),(watch outforthieving provides restaurant, inalush rainforestpleasant set 1164; adult/childE5/2; tube, oxygen multistep andaJacuzzi. reserve’s reserve’s the immediate vicinity. but therelage itself, are plentyof optionsin There’s noaccommodationin Lobambavil- SLEEPING the the CuddlePuddle.complex is Inthesame For personal pampering,head to the 10am-6pm) Swazi Spa Health&BeautyStudio

( h Swazi Cultural Village Swazi Cultural 11.15am &3.15pm) , withanaromatherapysteam Mantenga Falls Mantenga h hot 6am-10pm)

mineral springs mineral springs . Nextdoor,the , which youcan , alsoknownas .

This ‘living’

( % bemanti 416 1164; sibhaca ( %

583

416

SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND s/d tentedchaletsinclbreakfast E305/460) 1178; [email protected]; beehivehutsperpersonE60, modation optionsavailable. There are goodmidrange accom- several Midrange hey, it’sabed. of ment), it’sinneed agoodpick-me-up.But lodge’s inhouse And, like who’ve those overindulged atthe by SwaziTrails,thelodge’s sister-company. who’ve justspunoutonanactivityorganised as shabbyandworn-outtheadventurers legendary forthewrongreasons: itlooks MlilwaneWildlife Sanctuary( see p586 ). For more budget optionsintheLobambaarea, Budget 584 in traditional beehive huts at the Cultural in traditional beehive huts attheCultural outdoorshowers.separate Youcanalso stay bushland, have smallporches andcreative shelters, in lush delightful set fort: these adventure intented styleandcanvas com- with shared bathroomE190; [email protected]; campsitesperpersonE50,dmE75,d Mbabane (12km) 1 3 2 EZULWINI &MALKERNSVALLEYS To Mantenga Nature Reserve Nature Mantenga Lodge Legends Backpackers Mantenga Falls Ezulwini 21 SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Mantenga NatureReserve& National Museum...... Mlilwane WildlifeSanctuary...... SwaziCulturalVillage...... Lozitha StateHouse...... King SobhuzaMemorial...... (see4) Information...... (see12) Ziggy's InternetCafe&Tourist Tourist Office...... (see13) Swazi Trails...... (see13) National TrustCommission...... (see4) Friendly WhistleInternetCafe...... (see24) Big GameParks...... (see18) ATMs...... (see 24) SWAZILAND ••EzulwiniValley

Little 19 17 11 ὈὈ ὈὈ Ὀ 8 Usutu 2 AC 22

16 Mbabane 13

River 9 25

shebeen 23 3 River 14 10 i Lobamba 6 7 (drinking establish- King SobhuzaII ) Memorial Park This place is now Thisplaceisnow 18 4 5

20 12 ( 4 3 2 1 ( % MR27 % B1 A2 A1 B1 Soft ‘safari’ Soft ‘safari’ Malkerns 416 1151, 416 1870;leg B Nyanza Cottages...... MainCamp...... Mantenga Lodge...... Malandela's B&B...... Legends BackpackersLodge...... (see13) Happy ValleyMotel...... Ezulwini SunHotel...... Beehive Village...... (see14) CuddlePuddle...... Somhlolo NationalStadium...... Royal Kraal...... SLEEPING Mlilwane WildlifeSanctuary A1 Lugogo SunHotel...... Swazi SpaHealth&BeautyStudio B1 Parliament...... 15 Mahlanya MR3 26 1 MR103 University

dles tosteaks. ofgood selection luncheon dishesfromnoo- .visitswazi.com; s/d inclbreakfast fromE400/500; Village, andthere isarestaurant tengalodge.com; s/dinclbreakfast fromE380/500; ther alongthisroad. tenga thehotel CraftCentre; is500m fur- Take the signposted turn-offfortheMan- ofand stands flameandjacarandatrees. restaurant’s dining patiooverlooks thehills area themainroad.The about1.5kmoff unassuming roomsare inalush wooded set A safe, peaceful andpredictable option,the africaonline.co.sz; rinclbreakfast E370; for Mantenga Lodge. It’s alongtheMR103,opposite theturn-off Why NotDisco(entriesare free forguests). and raunchy aspect –theIfNotGo-GoBar forfree);under 12stay andanoutright discountsareweek available, andchildren andbar);generous side(mid- steakhouse looking outer hidesafunside(pizzeria, place boastsmultipersonalities: thebland- Lusu

Matsapha Happy Valley Motel Timbali Lodge&Country Park Mantenga Lodge Mantenga

shw

ana River International To Manzini Matsapha Airport 15 14 13 12 11 10 8 7 6 5 9 (5km) B2 A2 A1 B2 A1 A1 A1 B1 A1 SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT EATING Swazi Candles...... Roadside CraftMarket...... Mantenga CraftCentre...... (see13) Guava Gallery...... (see22) Gone Rural...... (see12) Gables ShoppingCentre...... Baobab Batik...... (see15) Winner's ActionBar...... (see17) Why Not?...... (see10) Sportsman's Bar...... (see11) If NotGo-GoBar...... (see10) House onFire...... (see12) Beer Garden...... (see9) Woodlands Restaurant...... Quatermain Restaurant...... (see24) Pick 'n'Pay...... (see24) Malandela's Restaurant...... (see12) Kanimambo...... (see 24) Hippo HauntRestaurant...... (see14) Guava Café...... Great Taipei...... (see24) Calabash Continental...... Bella VistaPizzeria...... (see10) Willows Lodge...... Timbali Lodge&CountryPark...... Shonalanga Cottage...... (see14) Royal SwaziSunHotel&Casino...... Reilly's RockHilltopLodge...... odeaBcpces(YF og. B2 Sondzela Backpackers(IYHF)Lodge..

4miles 6km 0 0 ( %

( % 416 1049;reservations@man www.lonelyplanet.com 416 1061;happyvalley@

( % as D 416 2632;www

serving a a serving as as ) 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 This A2 B2 A1 A1 A1 A1 A1 B2 A1 A1 ) )

and several goodrestaurants.and several Gables Shopping Centre , withaPick’n’Pay brisk localbusiness. aley Motel alongtheMR103,anddoes pools andtennis courts. usual international hotel features, including has amore apartment-like feel, withthe its sister hotels directly acrosstheroad.It storey than pinkpalaceislessostentatious & dinnerTue-Sun) h café, a casino and the necessary ATM.café, acasinoandthenecessary tennisflaunts agolfcourse, courts,Internet ous of place thethree Sunhotels, thisOTT as itsnamesuggests, andthemostluxuri- for chop suey and other Chinese dishes. for chop sueyandotherChinese Village, soupsandlunch withsalads, fare. at Guava Gallery,justbefore SwaziCultural tional.com; s/dE1910/2025; grounds. ant, grassyandsecluded catering white-coloured inpleas- cottages set ern endof thevalley,hasmodern,self- This moderately upscaleplace,atthewest- www.lonelyplanet.com Mozambican seafood and Mozambican seafood has Mozambicanchefs in andspecialises ( Guava Café EATING andallhave restaurants half-price cials atsometimesof theyearforabout inquire inadvance. Alloffer weekend spe- areMbabane. Rates alwayschanging, so west of Lobambaandabout3kmfrom clustered alongthe MR3about6kmnorth- chain, which hasthree propertieshere, all Top-end lodgingisdominated bytheSun Top End Swazi Sun. dren. groundsastheRoyal Itisonthesame ankle-biters –there’s Kamp Kwenaforchil- andpopularwith andlight Suns, it’sbright moreand slightly low-key of theSwazi mains fromE45; national.com; s/dE1205/1300; national.com; s/dE1330/1425; h per) meatdishes, and % Diagonally opposite Bella Vista isthe Vista Diagonally opposite Bella Royal SwaziSun Quatermain’s Pizzeria Bella Vista Lugogo SunHotel Ezulwini SunHotel 9am-5pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5pmSun) lunch &dinner) 416 3549;mainsE57-100;

h ( % Based onthe nameof Based the

Bella Vista isatHappy Vista Val- Bella ( lunch &dinner) % 416 1343;lightmealsfromE30;

416 3023;mains E58-80; (

( SWAZILAND••EzulwiniValley ( ( % % % Great TaipeiGreat ais 416 5000;www.suninterna h as 416 1061;pizzafromE32; 416 4500;www.suninter as 416 6500;www.suninter piri-piri piri-piri lunch &dinnerTue-Sat) istheplacetogo Achic eatery ) Thelargest ) Thistwo-

) ( Kanimambo Kanimambo As fancy % (hot pep- . h 416 2300; lunch h E30) Malkerns Valley. 10am-5pm Sun) Sun hotels, including play regularly (E40). (entry toWhyNot?includesIfNot).Bands IfNotGo-GoBar lit andsomewhattawdry here Alsohere forabignight. isthedimly others doingso)head it allhangout(orsee woodcarvings andT-shirts.woodcarvings from weaving tocandles, and tapestries with numerousshopsfeaturing everything access roadleadingtoMantenga Lodge, rather tired-looking craft centre isonthe prices. qualityandreasonable high wide selection, best craftshoppingintheregion, witha nearby Malkerns Valley, offers someof the The EzulwiniValley, together withthe SHOPPING Bar ner’s Action onWednesday;and with apubnight Why Not? ENTERTAINMENT & dinner) (pork knuckles). as international cuisine,including ery. There are goodvegetarian optionsaswell shady veranda of thisrecently openedeat - next doortothelovely and outsidesetting dropped attheEzulwinicraftmarket, head music onFriday. Fire Fire Bar Sportsman’s massive steaks. offers fromsavoury pancakes everything to places relating tothesourceof thefood.It the menufeatures aninterpretation of dishes represent Africa– ajourneythrough author of easily accessiblefromMbabane. at theupperendof EzulwiniValley, andis place.this popularandlong-standing It’s cuisine are at theincongruoushighlights local crafts. Ezulwini SunHotel) There atthe are nightspots alsoseveral Guava Gallery Centre Craft Mantenga Also check outwhat’splayingat Calabash Continental Calabash Woodlands Restaurant lunch &dinner) The name says itall.Ifyouwanttolet The namesays ( % After you’ve shoppedtillyou’ve 528 2001;[email protected])

( King Solomon % Achic boutiquewith various 416 1061;HappyValley Hotel;admission German andAustrian-Swiss German , withlive musicandmeals;

(Royal SwaziSunHotel) ( % ( % 416 1343; 416 1550;Lugogo SunHotel)

( Beer Garden %

’ s Mines, (

% 416 1187;mainsE60-100; ( % h 416 3466; 416 1136) 9am-5pm Tue-Sat, thiseatery’s

( , withlive % House on h 416 6500; eisbein This lunch Win- 585 , in

, SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND ings, weavings andartefacts. alargeSun Hotel sells range of localcarv- along theM103justsouthof theEzulwini cess isvia analternative gate. and signposted ac- from theturn-off. Night Motel ontheoldMbabane–Manzini road, trance is2kmsoutheast of theHappy Valley African school holidays(see p612 . Theen- vehicle safaris vehicle h tranquil ( and beautiful This Sanctuary Mlilwane Wildlife signposted. the MR103,fromwhere iswell everything thebypassroad.Thisputsyouon exit off Manzini, take theEzulwiniValley/Lobamba valley, asmanyaren’t keen onstopping. driver inthe knowsthatyouwanttoalight bus boundforManzini, butmake sure the service. taxi Valley, you’llhave tocallaMbabane-based ley yougo. Forapick-upfromtheEzulwini E100, dependingonhowfardowntheval- Nonshared fromMbabane costE60to taxis THERE&AWAYGETTING 586 trips trips walking near Nyonyane. In summer,youmayalsospotblackeagles croc odiles, hipposandavarietyof birds. warthogs,manyantelopegiraffes, species, area. includezebras, Animals tobeseen finewalksinthe Bird) peak,withseveral nated bytheprecipitous Nyonyane(Little well worthavisit.Itsterrain isdomi- iseasilyaccessibleand parks, thereserve ness of someof thebigger SouthAfrican region. fires strikes bylightning started inthe means ‘LittleFire’, namedafter themany of HlaneRoyalNationalPark. Mlilwane theestablishment andsupervised Reserve Game 1950s. Reillylater openedMkhaya tionist Ted Reillyonhisfamilyfarminthe first protected area, created byconserva- per hrE40) % The well-stocked roadsidecraftmarket Mlilwane gets very busy duringSouth If you’re driving fromeitherMbabaneor During thedayyoucouldget onamini- Activities on offer in the reserve include Activities onoffer inthereserve haveWhile itdoesn’t thedramaorvast- 6am-5pm) 528 3943;www.biggameparks.org; admissionE25; (per personfromE100). SWAZILAND ••EzulwiniValley

(per personperhrwithguideE25) anddayovernight nearLobambawasSwaziland’s

(per personE130) , cycling private reserve private horse-riding horse-riding , two-hour

(per person

Baz Bus Malkerns Valley (see opposite ), where the The pick-uppointisatMalandela’s in backpackers’ inSouthernAfrica. settings a hilltopperch thatgives itoneof thebest (which canbeabitnoisy),and Wart Bar a centrallivingarea includingtheHog& Ithaslargemodel allthesame. gardens, dorm bathroomsare) butitisasuperior fine-tuning(atleast,acoupleofa slight the Royce of Backpacker Hostels’ of isinneed Valley. ‘Africa’sRolls Thisself-proclaimed dela’s B&BandGoneRuralinMalkerns camp, andabout2kmfrombothMalan- around1.5kmbeyondthemain the reserve, formances intheevenings. theregroups staying are often danceper- an area forbraais(barbecues).Ifthere are Hippo Haunt restaurant E90),and (buffet around.There’ssnuffling asmallshop,the sites perpersonE45,dmE80,s/d2-personhutsE240/340) advance, eitherviapostorcredit card. tobepaidin phone oremail.Bookingsneed go there as youcanmake bookingsviatele- Malkerns, there’s though noreal reason to thewildlife orvia ther through sanctuary, Backpackers Lodge. Itcanbereached ei- booked inadvanceat canbe All accommodationinthesanctuary SLEEPING &EATING 3943; www.biggameparks.org) choice forfamilies. tage is nearthemaincamp,andagood was thefirst dwelling inSwaziland tohave it has acolourfulhistory: it lonial’. Indeed accommodation, promoted as‘quaintlyco- Rock onintothis luxuriousandtranquil E150/240) person E225/320,withshared bathroom including traditionalbeehive huts(s/dper complete withsimplethatched huts– location about3.5kmfromtheentrygate, inascenicwooded This homelycampisset the parktoreach Sondzela. trance, paytheentryfee anddrive through the mainMlilwaneWildlife Sanctuaryen- stops. Ifyou’re touse driving,you’llneed person E110) E150/200) dm E55,s/dwithshared bathroomE100/160,s/drondavels 3117; www.biggameparks.org; campsitesperpersonE40, Shonalanga Cottage Sondzela Backpackers (IYHF)Lodge Backpackers Sondzela Reilly’s Rock Hilltop Lodge RockHilltop Reilly’s Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary Main Camp Main Mlilwane WildlifeSanctuary

( % Sondzela isinthesouthernpartof This spacious self-catering cot- Thisspaciousself-catering in Durban031-3049099;www.bazbus.com) – and theoccasionalwarthog

(s/d E290/380,peradditional Big Game Parks Big Game www.lonelyplanet.com , behind Sondzela

(s/d fromE855/1450)

( ( % %

(camp 528 528

d E190,cottagesperadultE220) [email protected]; dmE65,caravans/dE160/220, Baobab Batik. Batik. Baobab is justoff themainroad,signposted next to backpackers, caravan andcamping.Nyanza six people. Bringyourowntowelsforthe a well-equippedcaravan thattakes upto There’s alsoasmallbackpackers dormand you’d like (aroundE80/370perhour/day). the farmandthere’s asmuch ridingas horse look pastureland. Thekidscanhelpouton galley-style kitchen, are andover- secluded here thecottages four,havestables, sleep a www.lonelyplanet.com Malkerns Valley. posite ), which isreadily accessiblefrom Sondzela Backpackers (IYHF)Lodge ( op- For budget accommodation,alsocheck out Sleeping &Eating mation mation at a scenicandfundrive. together withtheEzulwiniValley, offering known foritsartsandcraftsoutlets, tothefertileis theturn-off Malkerns Valley, About 7kmsouthof Lobamba ontheMR103 VALLEYMALKERNS fromtheveranda.imba Mountains has strikingviewsof thevalleyandMdz- and cycads,‘theRock’ Surrounded byaloes was builtinexchange foraUK£80ox wagon. andtheoriginalstructureelectric lighting, at Malandela’s complex. pool and asculpture garden.Malandela’s is ish rooms withatouch of ethnicAfrica, a with breakfast E180; Malandela’s B&B Malandela’s Nyanza Cottages There’s Internet accessandtouristinfor- lion) andhismother( At thecentre ofSwaziculture ( isthemonarchy,whichrests withboththeking SWAZI SNIPPETS labourers. It’snotunusualtoseeamanonhiswayworkwearingan clothing isascommonamongpeopleintheWesternised middleclassesasitisamongrural role. inmanyotherpostcolonial countries,thewearingoftraditional Unlike plays animportant clans andtosolidifythenationbehindking. while inmore recent yearstheyhave helpedtominimisepotentially divisive differences between the byalong-standingtraditionofage-related royalmilitaryregiments.identity issupported During Swazi robe),withaspearinonehandandbriefcasetheother. The Swazi deity is known as Mkhulumnchanti, andrespectThe forboththeagedandancestors SwazideityisknownasMkhulumnchanti, difaqane

( % 528 3423;perhrE45; Ziggy’s Internet Cafe & Tourist Infor- &Tourist Cafe Ziggy’s Internet (forced migration),theseregiments provided themilitaryclout to holdoffinvaders, s

( (Nyanza HorseTrails; % ) Offers creative andstyl- SWAZILAND •• Malkerns Valley SWAZILAND••Malkerns 605 2598, 528 3448; r per person 605 2598,5283448;rper person ndlovukazi A workingfarmwith h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) , the she-elephant). Inadditiontoloyaltythemonarchy,Swazi , theshe-elephant). % 528 3090;

Phone to see what’son. Phone tosee duringdaytimeit’sworthalook). (but even of are Somenights entertainment. sizzlers tre, musicandfilms,raves andotherforms venue fromAfricanthea- hostseverything the Malandela complex,thewell-known popular amongtravellers aswell.Part of site isthehotplaceforcoollocalsand andsculpture-filled itis,thismosaic- ever space?What- experimental-performance tion withtheMR103. along theMR27,about1kmfromjunc- Too, offering colourfulAfrican batiks; at Malandela’s B&B. Also here are Baobab made bygroups of localwomen.It’sbased for baskets, matsand traditionalclaypots Malkerns Valley. There’s someexcellentshoppinginthe Shopping House onFire Entertainment dishes underathatched shelter. anarrayof meatandseafood and serving the region, withgoodold-fashioned meals plex, thisisoneof thebestrestaurants in Next doorandpartof theMalandela com- Malkerns Valley, nearMalandela’s B&B. theMR27in off people). Thisplaceisset fourorfive cottages (sleeping self-catering the tranquilsceneof ninepleasant these looking thesugar-cane fieldsindicates h .co.sz) .com; s/dE270/395) E15, mainsE30-60; Malandela’s Restaurant Malandela’s Gone Rural Willows Lodge 8am-5pm Mon-Sat,9am-5pm Sun) Acultural-site-cum-living-gallery or

( ( % % h Thesmallprivate barover- ( 528 3436;www.goneruralswazi.com; 528 2001;houseonfire@africaonline % lunch &dinnerMon-Sat,Sun) 602 1284;www.swaziwillows amahiya

( % ngwenyama 528 3115;entréesfrom Theplacetogo (traditional , the

587 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND shop. till youmeltandenjoyasnackatthecoffee premises. Shopart andcraftonthesame Malkerns turn-off. UmgololoGallerysells signposted shopis7kmsouthof theMR103/ African-animal shapeandhue.every This creative pigment-coloured candles–in .com) need acartogetneed around. areplaces tostay spread out,you’llreally pending onthetrip.As thecraftshopsand the EzulwiniValley foraroundE2toE5de- herecan alsoget between minibustaxis and Lodge inMlilwaneWildlife Sanctuary.You pick-up pointforSondzelaBackpackers market (someviolent)aremuggings common. pickpockets; thecity’scrimerate isrising– extracareful andwatch atnight, for ley. Be intheEzulwiniVal- yourself better tobase it’sofOtherwise, minimalappeal–it’smuch you’re getting aroundonpublictransport. hub, soyou’re likely here topassthrough if Manzini isalsoSwaziland’smaintransport blocksandacoupleofoffice shoppingmalls. smallcentrehub whose isdominated by town, isanactive commercialandindustrial down. TodayManzini, Swaziland’slargest kommando Wararenegadeing theAnglo-Boer Boer adversarial wastheirrelationship thatdur- 1890and1902.So between ish andBoers ministrative centre forthesquabblingBrit- pop 80,000 Manzini outasthecombinedad- started MANZINI The &Away There Getting leather goods. handmade and SouthernCountry,selling 588 morning is a good time to see the ruralven- morning isagoodtimeto see country and elsewhere inAfrica. Thursday packed withhandicrafts fromaroundthe also popintotheon-site workshop. you’re dye-ing forawallhanging.Youcan that’s worthapoke around,particularly if it’sasmallplace on fromSwaziCandles, .com; h Sun) Baobab Batik Manzini’s main drawcardisitscolourful Swazi Candles 8am-5pm) . The upper section of. Theuppersection themarket is Baz Bus h stops outsideMalandela’s. Thisisthe SWAZILAND •• Manzini SWAZILAND ••Manzini

(cnr Mhlakuvane & Mancishane Sts; &Mancishane (cnr Mhlakuvane 8.30am-5pm) NexttoNyanzaCottages, 1km (militiaunit)burnedthetown ( %

( %

in Durban031-3049099;www.bazbus ( % 528 3242; www.baobab-batik.com; 528 3242;www.baobab-batik.com; Wax lyrical about these Wax lyricalabout these 528 3219;www.swazicandles h closed guide. (E420),includingtransport,mealsand stays recommended Tum’s George Hotel. He organises highly breakfast E200/250; d withshared bathroomE180; campsitesperpersonE45,dmE75,backpackers.com; ofwide selection Africantextiles. andthemarket alsohasa wooden carvings the retailers. Many Mozambican traders sell to dors bringingintheirhandicraftstosell Mission compound. It’s a Baz Busstop. Mission compound.It’saBaz Valley, opposite theTaiwanese Agricultural of townalongtheM103towards Ezulwini with mangotrees beyond.Head 8kmwest ner) andhasasmallpoolinlushgarden breakfast anddin- kitchen (italsoserves local area. email, Itoffers laundryservice, ing ‘jungle’barandpool,aswellinthe fun. Activitiescentre aroundthehappen- ficiently asasurgery butwithmuch more thisplaceoperates asef- doctor’s house, town, ablockup fromthepolicestation. andphones.It’sattheeastern endof TV rooms are decent,withbalconies,air-con, thing aboutthishotel isitsname. Butthe Sleeping found atthe another backpackers. canbe Myxohimself Backpackers, wasintheprocessof opening and formerownerof (now-defunct) Myxo’s At thetimeof research, Myxo,alocalguide Tours Standard Bank Milady’s. café Internet Information SandlaneandLouwSts. wane Stbetween Mall, withagoodrange of shops,isonNg- east–west thoroughfares. Thelarge Bhunu Sts,themainNgwane andNkoseluhlaza tern, with most of theactivityonoraround Manzini outinagridpat- Central isset Orientation Swaziland Backpackers tan roomsanda restaurant.tan bles anairport corridor. Ithas clean,spar- It’s neartheairport andironically,resem- foreign exchange (Monday to Friday only). foreign exchange(MondaytoFriday Park Hotel Matsapha Inn Matsapha

(1st fl, Bhunu Mall; perhrE25)Opposite (1st fl,BhunuMall; ( (cnrNkoseluhlaza&LouwSts)Does tourist office tourist %

( village visits a % 505 7423; 9 Mancishane St;s/dincl 505 7423;9Mancishane ) 518 6893;MR103;s/dE210/280) Themostinteresting

( % www.lonelyplanet.com is 518 7225;www.swaziland ( % andovernight 604 4102) ) Formerlya next to next to

/gibela; dE250,cottagesfromE450) s Ngwane &duToitSts;s/dinclbreakfast fromE600/800; directions. experience, butarrive Ringfor indaylight. tings. Theysave youfromaclinicalhotel the SalugaziRiver inprivate gardenset- animal-printtheme)are near the inevitable ‘Lion’and‘Cub’with(named ‘Leopard’, stonecottages tasteful, self-contained these northeast of Manzini off themainroad, & duToitSts;snacksfromE15,pizzaE30; www.lonelyplanet.com Currie HouseHalal Currie Eating sive menus. stylish restaurantsand several withexten- conference crowd.Ithasagym,poolbar tional-hotel atmosphere andcaters for the zini, thissmartplaceattempts aninterna- of curries. agoodrange cheerful’ serving takeaway, Louw Sts;mainsfromE10) Mbabane (31km) Swaziland Backpackers(8km); Airport (8km);MatsaphaInn(11km); To MatsaphaInternational 1 3 2 MANZINI Tum’s George Hotel Hotel Tum’s George Gibela Getaway Egg Yolk Coffee Shop/Sports Bar YolkCoffeeShop/Sports Egg ) The newestandfanciesthotel inMan- SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION tnadBn...... C2 Standard Bank...... Market...... Internet Cafe...... (see 12)

Bypass Dr David Hynd Rd Hynd David Dr AC First Ave Fairview

Trelawney

( % ( % Park Thisisyour‘cheap and (

SWAZILAND••Manzini

% 505 3024;www.visitswazi.com Third Ave Third & 505 6144;cnrMancishane

Second Ave 505 8991;www.tgh.sz;cnr Stanley Situated 10km

2 1 St B2

Mzimnene

B (cnr Ngwane

EATING SLEEPING Gil VincenteRestaurant...... Fontana diTreviPizzeria...... Egg YolkCoffeeShop/Sports Bar.....(see4) Debonaire's Pizza...... (see 10) Currie HouseHalal...... Tum's GeorgeHotel...... akHtl...... D2 Park Hotel...... apheka St apheka M breakfast, 13 Shopping The Hub Centre

a Mhlakuvane St Mhlakuvane 2 6 Riv er Sun) St;mainsE40-60; Martin & dinner) Villiers St;breakfast/pizza fromE23/30; lunch &dinner) Foods onNgwaneSt. KFCs, Debonaire’s PizzaandKowloonFast places, includingNando’s.There are two day. Bhunu Mall variousfast-food houses basic foodoutletsthatare openduringthe Mozambican dishes. wines. of andSouth African selection Portuguese dishes,andagenerous various Portuguese border, withdeliciousprawnsandseafood, A goodplacetoget ataste of life acrossthe St;mainsE30-55; Mahleka Tum’s George Hotel nextdoor. of aselection snacks.It’srunby and serves Villiers St burgers atgoodprices. and salads a decentcoffee, pluspizza,pasta, mall –thisplaceisthebestspottoheadfor Mancishane St 8

Sandlane St Sandlane Louw St Louw On LouwStintownthere are afew Gil Vincente Restaurant Gil Vincente Pizzeria Fontana diTrevi Mozambique Hotel & Restaurant &Restaurant Hotel Mozambique

14 1 Another good spot for Portuguese and and AnothergoodspotforPortuguese 5 St Meintjes 11

Tenbergen St InanAfrican

Mahleka St Ngwane St 7 6 5 4 3 Valley Coats Nkoseluhlaza St C1 B2 C2 D1 Notabadplaceforbreather

Martin St Martin Masalesikhundleni St 9 Masalesikhundleni TRANSPORT SHOPPING Minibus Taxis toMozambique...... (see9) Bus &MinibusTaxiPark...... Super Spa...... Shoprite...... (see 12) Bhunu Mall...... C1 Nando's...... (see 12) Mozambique Hotel&Restaurant...... Kowloon FastFoods...... KFC...... KFC......

Esser St h 0 400 m 400 0.2miles 0 0 h 3 breakfast, lunch&dinnerTue-

piazza

( Magnolia Rd Magnolia du Toit St Toit du % breakfast, lunch&dinner)

Kelly St ( % 505 3874; Ilanga Centre, 505 3874;IlangaCentre,

4 Du Toit St Toit Du h 505 3608;theHub, –ashopping D breakfast, lunch ( % Getaway (10km); Big Bend(80km)

Acacia Ave 505 2489; To Gibela 14 13 12 11 10 9 8

589 C1 B2 C2 C1 C1 C1 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND and signposted fromthemain road. at work.Bothare within1kmof each other andletsyou watchtapestries the weavers including ping, there are craftoutletshere, several reach theEzulwiniValley todoyourshop- land viaOshoek. Ifyoucan’twaituntil town you’llreach ifyou’re arrivinginSwazi- the borderwithMpumalanga,isfirst Tiny Ngwenya (theCrocodile),5kmeastof Ngwenya to almostzero. heavy mistsrollinthatcanlimitvisibility the year. Especiallyinthesummermonths, ily negotiablewitha2WDduringmostof post, allroadsare unpaved, eas- though post northeasttotheJeppe’s border Reef which runsfromneartheOshoek border modation options.AwayfromtheMR1, offers someexcellenthikingandaccom- scenery inSwaziland,thenorthernregion beautiful north.As wellasboastingthebest ines are themainfeatures of Swaziland’s streams andwaterfalls, andplungingrav- andwoodlands,Lush hills,plantations SWAZILAND NORTHERN South Africa,see p632 . from thecarparknexttoKFCuphill. toMozambiqueleaveE50. Minibustaxis International Airportcostsaround sapha E8 (35minutes). Anonshared toMat- taxi trip uptheEzulwiniValley toMbabane costs find somenonshared Aminibustaxi taxis. northern endof LouwSt,where youcanalso parkisatthe The mainbusandminibustaxi &Away There Getting Bhunu Mall Shopping 590 supermarket. is onMhlakuvaneStandhasaSuperSpa and aShoprite. TheHubshoppingcentre centre, withfastfood,anarrayof stores mission E25; 4196; SwazilandTapestriesStudios/Phumulanga figures fromrecycled glass,and creates beautifulAfrican animal andbird known mines. Themine ispartof Malol- and oneof the world’soldest 40,000 BC h Also here isthe For informationabout transportto/from 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pmSat&Sun) 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, h SWAZILAND •• Northern Swaziland SWAZILAND ••Northern 8am-5pm) h

Ngwenya GlassFactory (Ngwane St) 8am-4pm) , which features beautiful Ngwenya iron ore mine Ngwenya ironore isthemainshopping , datingfromaround

( % Endlotane , which 442 4142;

( % (ad- 442 the mainroad. tion of theMR1andMR3,1.5km off Peak8km upthePiggs roadfromthejunc- cuisine intheresort restaurant. It’sabout deliciousAfricanfusionyou candevour ridingisonthepremises,horse after which for visitingMalolotja and Nature Reserve accommodations around.It’sagreat base barn, oneof themostinventive dormitory ors. Backpackers are inaconverted stabled terials andglass,withethnicAfricaninteri- chalets are ablendof traditionalSwazima- framed bytheMalolotja stylish peaks,these person E120) .co.sz; dmE86,dchaletsinclbreakfast E524,beehivesper Hawane Resort SLEEPING &EATING Reserve is to beaccompaniedbyaranger. including visitsmadebyvehicle, you’llneed of Malolotja fromhere. Tovisitthemine, youcan’tcontinueonintotherestthough posted neartheNgwenyaGlassFactory, al- overlooking themine. Theentranceissign- excavation tools.There’s alsoapicnicarea tion aboutthemine,includingoriginal esting displayof photographs andinforma- Centre &Visitors Ngwenya Mines ( otja Nature Reserve below ) andhasanew E20/12; ( middleveld/highveld beautiful This Reserve Nature Malolotja and rapids until it meets thelowveld.and rapids untilitmeets agorgeflows east through of inaseries falls rivers, including theKomatiRiver, which islacedbystreams and cutbythree serve to forest andlower-lying bushveld. The re- grassland andhigh-altitude mountainous Theterrain rangesand wildebeest. from their home,asdoherdsof zebras,elands cycads –foundonlyinthispartof Africa. andKaapschehoopthe Woolly,Barberton –including added attractions,withseveral species. Wildflowers andrare plantsare species of rare birds,includingseveral withoveran ornithologist’sparadise, 280 with around200kmof hiking trails,and It’s alsoanexcellentwalkingdestination, rugged andinthemostpartunspoiled. % Hawane Dam Nearby, ontheopposite sideof theMR1, Various antelope speciesmake Malolotja 416 1151,4424241;www.sntc.org.sz; adult/child h (nofacilities). 6am-6pm) A touch of countryluxury,and

( andthesmall % isatruewildernessarea, 627 6714,4424744;www.hawane www.lonelyplanet.com withaninter- Hawane Nature Hawane Nature reserve

the reserve. ForestForbes Reef towardsthecentre of wooden fullyequippedself-catering also pleasant, the overnight trails(nofacilities).There are site, withablutionsandbraaiarea, oralong well-equipped (butinfrequently main used) also possibletovisit be arranged withadvancenotice. fice attheentrancegate. Wildlife drives can of- arrange apermit(E5)withthereserve to camp.You’llalsoneed outside thebase as acampstove, asfires are notpermitted aswellbring whatever foodyou’llneed, north. Foralllonger to walks,you’llneed inthe in thesouthtoMgwayizaRange jauntthatextends fromNgwenya weeklong www.lonelyplanet.com ( ( where& Casino, you’llfind justnorthofCentre Peak Orion Piggs Hotel place tocheck outisatthePeak these Craft area isknownforitshandicrafts.Agood north of town. the highlights, forested of section thecountry,withoneof exchange facilities)andasupermarket. noforeign- abankortwo(though stations, tions inthearea. Ithasacoupleof petrol onthehugetry, which pineplanta- isbased small centre of indus- Swaziland’slogging Nowadays, thisgrittyfrontiertownisthe in1954. in1884.Thelastmineclosed Pigg when goldwasdiscovered here byWilliam ing thelate 19thandearly20thcenturies, This smalltownreached itspinnacledur- Piggs Peak&Around 2180; www.swazitrails.co.sz) person atmaincamp/ontrailsE60/40) drop youhere. PeakPiggs will road(MR1);minibustaxis 35km northwestof Mbabane, alongthe Kraft inAfrican fabrics,and specialises persons. Bookthrough each of which amaximumof sleeps six National TrustCommission www.sntc.org.sz) % % Accommodation consistsof In additiontotheNgwenyamine,it’s Hiking trailsrange fromshortwalkstoa In addition to the scenery, the Piggs PeakIn additiontothescenery,Piggs PeakPiggs scenic,hillyand isinahighly The entrancegate forMalolotja isabout 437 1260;www.tintsaba.com) 437 3099;[email protected])

( % cabins 437 3127) , bothinEzulwiniValley.

Phophonyane FallsPhophonyane (per personE230,children half-price) , abranch of SWAZILAND •• Northern Swaziland SWAZILAND••Northern Forbes Reef goldmine Forbes Reef ordirectly withthe

( % Swazi Trails , which sells sisal sisal , which sells 416 1151,1178; , eitheratthe Tintsaba Crafts Ethnic Bound , about8km camping , which Likhweti Likhweti ( %

(per in 416 ,

incl breakfast fromE700/980) 1319; www.phophonyane.co.sz; tentsE490-700,s/dcottages dors alongtheroadupfromMbabane. crafts. There are alsonumerous craftven- baskets, jewelleryandmanyotherSwazi are often available. Jeppe’s specials borderpost.Midweek Reef northeast of Peak, Piggs ontheroadto complete withamenities.It’s about 10km upscale-resort-and-casino-in-one, sanitised Africans flocktothissafe bet:amassive www.oriongroup.co.za; dwithhalfboardE1200) www.oriongroup.co.za; dinner) are bothattached totheinn. from E25,openforbreakfast, lunch and Shop, (mains andWoodcutter’s Restaurant you’re Craft budget. onatight Khulilie andonlyworthconsideringif town itself in the mainroad,isonlyplacetostay This inn,1kmsouthof thetowncentre on Inn Highlands SLEEPING &EATING in aresidential setting. PeakB&B inPiggs withsmall,neatrooms wrong’ isthisplace’scatch-cry. Thebest youcan’tgo ‘Withsomanyrights is right: the first again.Even right itspromo-speak Peakat thePiggs Clinicsignandthentake .com/jabulaguesthouse; s/dE225/375; Peak; costsaboutE60. ataxi with thelodge tobepicked upfromPiggs Youcanarrange500m further,ontheright. a waterfall; tothelodge theturn-off isabout down thisroaduntilyoucrossabridge over is about 1.5kmbefore thecasino. Continue willdropyouhere) (minibustaxis turn-off east (towardsthecasino),andsignposted Peak:is about 14kmfrom Piggs headnorth- Thelodgeto enter thesurroundingreserve. visitors are charged E30/20peradult/child is anadditionalE20/10peradult/child. Day andthereforeEntry tothereserve thelodge E50, openforbreakfast, lunch anddinner). are available attheDiningHut(mainsfrom tents overlooking meals cascades.Excellent African–styleluxurysafari option) orEast cottages (withaself-catering in comfortable swim intherockpools.Accommodationis around theriver andwaterfall, andyoucan forest. Ithas anetworkof walkingtrails ofin itsownnature lushindigenous reserve away liesnortheastof Peak Piggs onariver Jabula GuestHouse Phophonyane Lodge & Nature Reserve Reserve Lodge&Nature Phophonyane Orion Piggs Peak Hotel &Casino PiggsPeak Hotel Orion

( % 437 1144;s/dinclbreakfast E160/300)

( % This stunninghide- 437 1052;www.swaziplace s

) Turn right Turnright ( % 437 1104; ( South % 591 437

SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND Lodge the oldestlife forms. someof in theworld–claimedtocontain gion’s features includetheoldestmountains inthevillageyou cancooloff pool.There- ine forest Afterwards, amid theplantations. streams, andwaterfalls inthenaturalriver- cyclingaround plus there’s excellentoff-road inSwaziland,EmlembePeaktain (1863m), future. the village andhave major plansforits charcoal kilns)have torehabilitate started (who alsorunthevillage’s milland saw twopassionateToday, however, investors mine dumpshave rehabilitated). notbeen andecologicalissues(theenvironmental from litigationover theminetomajor much adversityaway. Thetownhasseen – 20km ing fromtheoldminetoBarberton, take itslowly. a2WD canhandlethem ifyou although and they’re inreasonably condition, rough National Park, theroadsare mainlydirt If you’re headingeasttowards HlaneRoyal THERE &AWAYGETTING .sz; perpersonfromE150) the longest and ment fromthe1930s),agolfcourse Deco cinema hilly landscape. There are churches, an many ArtDecobuildingsnestleonapretty of and corrugated deserted ironhouses is toenter atrue-life timewarp;thousands residents andnoamenities.Tovisitittoday townwitharound100 Bulembu wasaghost by2003 closed; down andtheneventually mine workers, toscale buttheminesstarted the world.Atitspeakitsupported 10,000 fifth-largest chrysotile (asbestos)minein for theHavelock Mine,which becamethe of Bulembu.Thetownwasbuiltin1936 countrytothehistorictownplantation scenicto windyourway20kmthrough A Peakfascinating detourfromPiggs is Bulembu 592 dinner E40/35/65). available, asare allmeals(breakfast/lunch/ packers cottage (E80).Family suites are convertedspacious anddelightfully back- andmorestatus aboutnovelty, the choose cottages, allrenovated. Ifyoucare less about Manager’s residence orstylishDirectors’ Accommodation isinthemain Stunning hikes moun- includethehighest SWAZILAND ••EasternSwaziland

( % 437 3888,6024577;[email protected] , a cableway hospital in the former General intheformerGeneral intheworld,extend- (complete withequip- Bulembu Art Art (E14, onehour). vehicleswith several dailytoMbabane market atthetopendof themainstreet, (Mpumalanga). further toBarberton in wetconditions.Theroadcanberough Peakfrom Piggs toBulembucanbeboggy [email protected]; s/dE244/352; realnet.co.sz; dm/r E75/220) Mountain Camp away fromthecrowds,headto Reserves. Park, orMlawulaandMbuluziNature visiting thenearbyHlaneRoyalNational except asapossiblestocking-uppointfor town withlittleof interest fortravellers, Simunye isamanicured sugar-company Simunye tural experiences. provide excellentwildlife-viewing andcul- Together these Mbuluzi Nature Reserves. andMlawula,Shewula and Game Reserve, prising HlaneRoyalNationalPark, Mkhaya area com- aconservation Conservancy, aswellfortheLubomboplantations, border. Thearea isknownforitssugar-cane within aneasydrive totheMozambique the shadowof Mountains, theLebombo The eastern Swazilandlowveld nestlesin SWAZILAND EASTERN and another 3kmoff the Tshaneni road. head 6km westof thejunction atMaphiveni, tennis court.Theclubisnorth of Simunye– lawns, arestaurant, swimming pooland jadedrooms,plus green if slightly fortable Swazi Trails advance). Youcanorganise avisitthrough lunch/dinner E25/40/40;mustbebooked in Local mealscanalsobearranged (breakfast/ facilities. shared ablutionsandself-catering inbasicrondavels,can camporstay with walks (guidedperperson E10).You villages, plusnature andbird-watching offer are guidedculturalwalkstonearby crow flies).As wellasamazingviews,on 36kmbydirtroad(15kmasthe Mountains, camp northeastof SimunyeintheLebombo (E9, onehour). fromSimunye tothecamp a minibustaxi if you’re arrivingviapublictransport,get The minibus taxi stand isnexttothe stand The minibustaxi The stretch of dirtroadrunningwest For amore cultural andruralexperience Tambankulu CountryClub B&B

( %

416 2180;www.swazitrails.co.sz) ( % 605 1160,6031931;shewula@ , acommunity-owned www.lonelyplanet.com as

( ) % hascom- 373 7111; Shewula or, booked through (R55 perhour). imum four)andmountain-bike rentals dance performances(E40perperson, min- minimum two),aculturalvillage tourwith hour wildlife daydrives (E130perperson, elephantsandrhinos,aswelltwo- see person), theopportunityto which afford wildlife-watching. species, andoffers wonderfullylow-key leopards, white rhinosandmanyantelope area, hometoelephants,lions,cheetahs, ‘wilderness’) isSwaziland’slargest protected hunting grounds.Hlane(thenamemeans Sanctuary. zi.com; s/dfromE244/352,cottagesE347/580; www.lonelyplanet.com food andsupplies. theoddantelope). Bringyour own can see near awater hole(fenced you off, although cottages. It’sjustinsidethemaingate, and rondavels and modation isinself-catering gas-cooking area andarestaurant. Accom- andrustic,withnoelectricity,a is pleasant www.biggameparks.org) sion E25; This Park National Royal Hlane 2½ hours). Peak dailyto/fromPiggs minibus taxi (E30, (E18, onehour).There’s alsoatleastone for MlawulaandMbuluzi)fromManzini Simunye (andfurthernorthtothejunction tennis andsquashcourts). club facilities(swimmingpool,golfcourse, visitors are the welcomeandyoucanuse and abar/restaurant. it’saclub, Although cottages single rooms,modernself-catering is afriendlyandtranquilspotwithsmall a 2WD, with the notable exception ofa 2WD, with thenotable the the park, youcanexplore mostof itwith about 7kmsouth of Simunye).Onceat at theentrance to Hlane(E5;thegate is andelectricityisavailable.cottages, tasteful, stone,four-person, self-catering from Ndlovu Accommodationisin Camp. of thespots:itoverlooks ariver about10km avels fromE225/320,8-personcottageperpersonE190) Hlane hastwogoodcamps.Bothcanbe There are guidedwalking trails(E30per Simunye CountryClub Ndlovu Camp Camp Ndlovu Bhubesi Camp Several minibus taxis rundailyto minibustaxis Several Minibus taxis toSimunyewilldropyou Minibus taxis park h

( % 6am-6pm) 528 3943;www.biggameparks.org; admis-

(camp sitesperpersonE40,s/drond- (s/d cottagesE290/380) Big Game Parks Big Game isneartheformerroyal inMlilwaneWildlife SWAZILAND••EasternSwaziland

( % 313 4792;www.visitswa ( % is thepick 528 3944; as )

4 peopleE500) available. Ask forthe vehiclemay bepossibleifthere’s areserve butifyoucallinadvancealift the reserve There isnotransportfromthejunctionto junction (E17,1¼hours fromManzini). willdropyouattheroad. Minibustaxis from where it’sanother4kmfromthemain isabout10kmnorthof Simunye, reserve booked the through cess fromSiteki. Accommodationcanbe withplanstoopenac- part of thereserve, new chalets are beingbuiltinthesouthern and style tents, about 3kmfromthemaingate, 600m from the turn-off on theleft. 600m from theturn-off entrance isabout for Mlawula; thereserve river. lodges lovely five- oreight-person self-catering 300 birdspeciesrecorded here. Thereand wildebeests. have over alsobeen zebras,hippos,antelopegiraffes, species E30) .sz; adult/childE25/12; own mountain bike.own mountain can hire fishing rodsforE20andbringyour others, plusrewarding bird-watching. You boasts antelope speciesandhyenas,among Mountains, veld theLebombo plainsmeet fore Ndlovu Camp. road intheparkbranchesjustbe- offright to hire aguide (E30perhour).Themain special lioncompound.Forthisyou’llneed E20/10) E60) Reserve The smallandprivately owned Reserve Mbuluzi Game ( (s/d E150/300) tranquil This Reserve Mlawula Nature on theMlawulaRiver. das andwoodenviewingdecks are set Somelodges have spaciousveran-serve. than atneighbouring MlawulaNature Re- self-catering self-catering flier. % The turn-off for theentrancegatesThe turn-off tothe The turn-off for Mbuluzi is the same as forMbuluziisthe same The turn-off Accommodation here, inachoice of For accommodation,there’s , where youcanpitch your owntent. The are alsoavailable neartheMbuluzi 416 1151,1178;www.sntc.org.sz) Siphiso campingground boasts arange of animals,including (s/d E375/530;

( % has agasstove andfridge. Twenty , with self-catering doublesafari- , withself-catering 383 8861;[email protected];adult/child Mapelepele Cottage Mapelepele reserve h a 6am-6pm) National TrustCommission

( Trails andDayWalks ) % , ismore luxurious Camp sites Camp 416 1151;www.sntc.org

(camp sitesperperson , where the low-

Mbuluzi Game Mbuluzi Game . (accommodates Sara Camp

(per person 593

SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND tage, cot- that decorate self-catering thepleasant 30 years andistheoneinknow. friendly Marie hasworked there for over modest, no-frills roomsandmeals.The with canechairs andasmokingarea and 1780) Ti topnotch This Reserve Game Mkhaya main street. a bustlingmarket. There’s anATM onthe with wideviews,coolertemperatures and der. Itliesabove thesurroundinglowveld, Manzini theMhlumeni/Goba bor- through is thefastest route toMozambique from frontier troopspermission tomarry.Siteki grandfather of thepresent king)gave his It gotitsnamewhenMbandzeni(great- theMR16. about 8kmfromLonhluphekooff in thefoothillsof Mountains theLebombo Siteki (Marrying Place)isatradingtown Siteki 594 ideal to stay for at least one night. foratleastonenight. ideal tostay 4pm. Whileday tours canbearranged, it’s at aspecifiedpick-up time,usually10amor drive inalone;you’llbe metatPhuzumoya thenyoucan’t booking inadvance,andeven andbirdlifeinsect theysupport. from which Swazisbrew butforthe beer, Mkhaya (or knobthorn)tree, which aboundshere. takes itsnamefromthe The reserve road. zumoya, off theManzini–Big Bend inAfrica).It’snearthehamletofelse Phu- likely rhinoshere tomeet thananywhere black rhinos (itboaststhatyou’re more elephants,andwhite andlopes, tsessebe, ante-other animalsincludingroanandsable extinction. Itsfocusexpandedtoinclude to save thepure Ngunibreed of cattlefrom /mabudafarm; s/dinclbreakfast E200/400) (E7, 30minutes). (E10,onehour)andSimunye with BigBend dailyconnectingSitekior twominibustaxis daily (E13,onehour).There are alsoone the green recommended. outlook.Highly farm justoutsideSiteki town;others willlove board E195/280) www.biggameparks.org) History buffs willadmireHistory buffs thecolonialrelics Siteki (Stegi) Hotel (Stegi) Siteki Stone Camp without Note thatyoucan’tvisitthereserve Minibus taxis fromManziniMinibus taxis runtwice isreminiscent of a19th-century hunt- SWAZILAND ••SouthernSwaziland Mabuda FarmMabuda s are valuednotonlyfortheirfruit, harksbacktocolonialdays

(all-inclusive s/dwithfullboardE1035/ private reserve private

( was established in1979 wasestablished %

( % 343 4124;www.geocities.com 343 4126;s/dwithhalf , on a working , onaworking

( % mkhaya 528 3943;

south pastLismore Lodge ontheMR8. fast, lunch &dinner).It’snearly2kmfurther restaurant (mainsE40toE70;openbreak- about 4km south of Big Bend ontheMR8. about 4kmsouthof BigBend good-valuesmall, comfortable, doubles.It’s Hotel. on themainstreet Inn justbefore theBend boothnexttotheBPpetrolstation Bank InnHotel. pool attheBend here inthe duringsummer,youcancooloff River justbefore itjoinstheUsutu. Ifyou’re onabigbendintheLusutfu propriately set sugartown,ap- of off thissleepy townset The picturesque panoramasfromtheedge Big Bend some goodhorse-riding (nearNsoko). the NgwempisiGorge, for andisthebase cover the‘real’ Swaziland,especiallyaround offonabikeplace toset oronfoottodis- the entire area isquietandrural,it’sagood it lacksthenorth’sdramaticscenery.While tourists don’tgambleonavisit;theythink than itssurroundings.Nowadaysmany quently visited foritsroulette rather tables, southernSwazilandwasfre-KwaZulu-Natal, In formeryears, of because itseasyaccessto SOUTHERN SWAZILAND Riverside Motel Motel Riverside SLEEPING &EATING and anoutdoorbar. ition southof town.Italsohasarestaurant faces outover theriver fromahilltoppos- Its ownviewsare it enough: quite pleasant green depictingaforest curtains ‘outlook’. a massive faux‘window’framedbylime- The National Park inSouthAfrica. many of nearKruger theprivate reserves and meals,isgoodvaluecompared to wildlife drives, parkentry walkingsafaris, surrounded bybush. Thepriceincludes ally luxuriousstoneandthatch cottages ing camp,withaccommodationinrustic- and seafood curry. and seafood kebabs dishes, including calamari, seafood more Lodge, youcan get great seafood h a Bend InnHotel LL Restaurant Bar LL Restaurant There’s anATM attheFirst National Lismore Lodge Lismore ) lunch &dinner) Friendly with decent rooms and a good Friendlywithdecentroomsandagood

faded foyerinthisclassicplacefeatures ( % . Located nextdoortoLis-

( 363 6910; s/d with breakfast E171/262; 363 6910;s/dwithbreakfast E171/262; ( % %

( 363 6613;dfromE200) 363 6855;s/dE189/280; % www.lonelyplanet.com 363 6380;mainsE40-80; Has Has s )

breakfast perpersonfromE250) campsitesperpersonE65,beehivehutsE100,lodgeincl .za; www.lonelyplanet.com ( town centre. supermarket intheshoppingmall to stophere. There’s awell-stocked Spar to visitthecasino,there’s noreal reason der postatMahamba, butunlessyouwant towntothebor-Nhlangano istheclosest Nhlangano asabackdrop. Mountains of sugar-cane country,withtheLebombo liesintheheart border postof Lavumisa, andthe BigBend Nsoko, halfwaybetween Nsoko one hour). borderpost(E16, hour) andtoLavumisa godailytoManziniMinibus taxis (E15, one inSouthAfrica.to/from KwaZulu-Natal makes aconvenient stopenrouteBig Bend THERE&AWAYGETTING be arranged. ant roomsandabraai area. Dinner canalso manicured pleas- lawnandgarden setting, witha off themainroad. It’saprivate house 3km fromthebordergate andabout1km craft shopandtraditionalSwazidancing. (E30 perperson). There’s arestaurant with person, minimumtwo)andguidedwalks Also onoffer are wildlife drives (E65per trees andbasins)simplebeehive huts. chalets-cum-safari-lodge (note theinternal dation optionsgalore, includingcreative coming fromthesouth.Ithasaccommo- andis convenient ifyou’reprivate reserve, % The pleasant The pleasant Nisela Safaris sense ofadventure shouldhandlethedayeasily. rapids,whicharen’tencounter forthefaint-hearted, although even Grade-IV first-timers witha hence theclaimthatraftinghere is‘…safer thandrivingthroughJo’burg’. you’ll In sections, The‘flat dogs’(crocodiles)sunningontheriver crocshaven’t bank. devoured anyonerecently, followedbyasedate tripthroughsceniccountrywithglimpsesofthe a10mwaterfall, portaging offers afull-daytrip(E610perperson,minimumtwo,includinglunchandequipment) involving ing rapids. andBulungaMountains,generat- the narrowBulunguGorge, whichseparates theMabukabuka The river itpasses through isusuallysluggish GameReserve andquite tame,butnearMkhaya One ofthehighlightsSwazilandisraftingUsutuRiver (whichbecomestheLusutfu River). WHITE-WATER RAFTING 207 9099;s/dinclbreakfast E230/460) Swazi Trails

( % ( % Phumula FarmPhumula GuestHouse 303 0318;www.niselasafaris.co SWAZILAND••SouthernSwaziland 416 2180;www.swazitrails.co.sz) isasmalltouristy isabout

is the best contact toorganise isthebestcontact a rafting trip.It sino tion option, able (E15perday). Anotheraccommoda- portersand bedding,although are avail- tion). Youmustalsotake yourownfood transport inasecure locationnearrecep- plus E10foreach hiker; youcanparkyour pulsory totake alocalguide(E50perday and Mhlabeni Hutisbyawaterfall. It’scom- (E110, 4½hours). godirectLarge minibustaxis toJo’burg Retief inSouthAfrica(E20,onehour). (E4), where youmustchange forPiet connections totheMahamba borderpost on toMbabane. There are alsofrequent from where youcanget anothervehicle Nhlangano andManzini (E16,1½hours), (MR11). road southeast of townalongthe Lavumisa together withapopularcasino. It’s4km andsomewhatfadedtinyrooms, setting ose Hut huts. Theatmosphericdouble-storey the area enroute andsleep intwodifferent You canspendtwotothree daysexploring Hills ontheMankayane–Vlelzizweni road. community-run 33kmtrailintheNtfungula will bethrilledbythe the NgwempisiRiver. Adventure-seekers ments, withbeautifulnaturalforests and try’s few remaining untouched environ- of theMalkerns Valley, isoneof thecoun- The Ngwempisi Gorge hikes. is nearthetrail entrance andcanarrange On offer atthe Several minibus taxis run daily between rundailybetween minibustaxis Several

(dm E90) Ngwempisi Gorge ( % 207 8211;s/dE597/665; isbuiltaroundmassive boulders Horseshoe Estate B&B Horseshoe Estate Nhlangano Sun Hotel &Ca- Nhlangano SunHotel

( % Ngwempisi Hiking Trail Ngwempisi Hiking 625 6004) a ) isagrandi- , 30kmsouth

( % 606 1512) Khopho Khopho 595 , a

, SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above-‘Doright thetermsandconditionsonoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,massemailitto only. Inotherwords,pleasedon’tuploadthischaptertoapeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfairtoaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercialpurposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,accessthischapter isnotdigitally Tomake 596 © LonelyPlanetPublications COPYRIGHT www.lonelyplanet.com