© Lonely Planet Publications 597 S w a z i l a n d Embedded between Mozambique and South Africa, the kingdom of Swaziland is one of the smallest countries in Africa. What the country lacks in size it makes up for in its rich culture and heritage, and relaxed ambience. With its laid-back, friendly people and relative lack of racial animosity, it’s a complete change of pace from its larger neighbours. SWAZILAND Visitors can enjoy rewarding and delightfully low-key wildlife watching, adrenaline-boost- ing activities, stunning mountain panoramas and lively traditions. Swaziland also boasts superb walking and high-quality handicrafts. Overseeing the kingdom is King Mswati III, one of three remaining monarchs in Africa. The monarchy has its critics, but combined with the Swazis’ distinguished history of resistance to the Boers, the British and the Zulus, it has fostered a strong sense of national pride, and local culture is flourishing. This is exemplified in its national festivals – the Incwala ceremony and the Umhlanga (Reed) dance (see the boxed text, p607 ). The excellent road system makes Swaziland easy to get around. Accommodation includes a decent network of hostels, family-friendly hotels and upscale retreats. Many travellers make a flying visit on their way to South Africa’s Kruger National Park, but it’s well worth lingering here if you can. FAST FACTS Area: 17,364 sq km Capital: Mbabane Country code: %268 Famous for: Monarchy, cultural festivals, high incidence of HIV/AIDS Languages: Swati, English Money: Lilangeni, plural emalangeni (E) Phrase: Sawubona/sanibona (hello) Population: 1.1 million 598 SWAZILAND •• Highlights lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com SWAZILAND 599 an area known for its handicrafts, and 0 30 km SWAZILAND 0 20 miles HOW MUCH? take a detour to hike in Malolotja Nature To Nelspruit To Malelane To Malelane Komatipoort Traditional dance/cultural group Reserve ( p610 ), an unspoiled wilderness (8km) (22km) (10km) US$6.50 area, or visit the fascinating ghost vil- Bulembu lage of ( p611 ). You could do this R570 Internet per hour US$4.50 R route clockwise, starting in Mbabane and 38 LEGEND Coffee US$0.80-1.70 heading north to Malolotja. GR Game Reserve Bothasnek R Jeppe's Reef NP National Park Batik hanging US$8 One month You can absorb most of Swazi- 38 Hhohho Matsamo NR Nature Reserve Barberton r e WS Wildlife Sanctuary v land in this time. Join the previous two i Basket US$5 R R 40 Ngonini Nelshoogte Pass ti itineraries and take extra time out for a Makonjwam MR1 lu Herefords Ngwempisi Gorge To Badplaas M LONELY PLANET INDEX some action: hike in the (25km) R571 Saddleback Pass M O Z A M B I Q U E ( p613 ) and shoot the rapids on the Usutu Phophonyane Falls To Maputo (50km) SWAZILAND 1L of petrol US$0.80 River Josefsdal Sihhoya (p608 ). If Swaziland is incorporated Bulembu Mananga Mgwayiza 2 1L of bottled water US$0.80 into your one-month trip through South Piggs Range Peak Sand Namaacha River Africa, it’s well worth diverting here for Maguga Dam Tshaneni Lomahasha Bottle of beer US$1.10-1.50 M13 Reservoir MPUMALANGA its friendly people, relaxed atmosphere, Komati Mhlume (SOUTH AFRICA) Malolotja River Souvenir T-shirt US$11 SWAZILAND Bholekane unique culture, and pretty and accessible NR Phinduvuke N wildlife parks and reserves. Mnjoll Tambankulu Barbecued maize US$0.40 17 Enkhaba Dam Shewula Forbes Reef Maphiveni 2 To Johannesburg r e Mbuluzi (viaὈὈ Carolina & Ὀ v ὈὈὈὈ Ngwenya Hawane NR i GR CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO Middelburg) Oshoek R (335km) Hawane Dam Simunye HIGHLIGHTS Most rain falls in summer, usually in torren- Motjane Mliba Mlawula NR Mbuluz Lu i River Hlane Royal Goba Mkhaya Game Reserve ( p612 ) Seeing rare tial thunderstorms and mostly in the western sus Mhlumeni hw MR5 NP a MBABANE e na n black rhinos in the wild. mountains. Summers on the lowveld are very Waverley R a i Luve z Lundzi v lu er Malolotja Nature Reserve ( p610 ) or Ngwem- hot, with temperatures often over 40°C; in the Ezulwini bu Luphohlo Dam M MR7 pisi Gorge Mantenga Mpisi ( p613 ) Hiking in two of Swazi- high country the temperatures are lower and Ezulwini L E ὈὈὈNR Valley ὈὈὈὈ Mhlambanyatsi Mpaka Lonhlupheko land’s most enchanting and unspoilt in winter it can get cool. Winter nights on the Lobamba MR3 Mlilwane Mafutseni B O M B O wilderness areas. lowveld are sometimes very cold. WS MR3 Manzini ni Siteki uti River Bhunya Mahlanya Hhelehhele imb Usutu River (see the boxed text, p608 ) Shoot- The rains usually begin around early De- Matsapha T Sandlane MR18 Malkerns Matsapha ing wondrous white-water rapids. cember and last until April. May to August Loyengo Valley Airport MR8 Usutu Nerston MR19 Usutu MR16 Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary ( p606 ) Wander- are the coolest months, with frosts in June Mkhaya Nyetane a Dam M MR4 ng GR lu ing through a wilderness and relaxing in and July. u ge O Sidvokodvo B or River its comfortable bargain lodges. Ὀ GὈ Sifunga U Mankayane pis Dam em i N gw River L N us Off the beaten track ( p611 ) Camping high HISTORY utfu Phuzumoya T River Siphofaneni on the Lebombo Plateau and overlooking The area that is now Swaziland has been in- Ngwempisi Gorge A Hendick I a y van Eck Dam sh N typical Africa from Shewula Mountain habited for a long time – in eastern Swazi- at le Mgazini ng l Mkondvo River a a S hl V SWAZILAND Camp. land archaeologists have discovered human a MR9 Big Bend M d Lusutfu Sicunusa n a remains dating back 110,000 years – but the Houtkop r River Ndo lz G an Sithobela ITINERARIES Swazi people arrived relatively recently. e R Ὀ iv e MR26 er One Week r iv With only a week at your dis- During the great Bantu migrations into Bothashoop R Gege ze posal, a half-day in Mbabane ( p603 ) is Southern Africa, one group, the Nguni, moved Piet Retief u th Hlathikulu la plenty. Spend two days poking around down the east coast. A clan settled in the area h the pretty Ezulwini ( p606 ) and Malkerns near what is now Maputo in Mozambique, M Maloma Lubuli Nsoko Valleys ( p608 ), including Lobamba ( p606 ), and a dynasty was founded by the Dlamini MR9 N Mahamba gw and make a trip into the relaxing Mlilwane family. (For detailed information on the Bantu Nhlangano avuma River Wildlife Sanctuary ( p606 ); you’ll probably migrations, see p39 .) MR8 Mhlosheni Mhlosheni see zebras, giraffes, many antelope species In the mid-18th century increasing pressure N Sihultse 2 r e v and a variety of birds. If you have time from other Nguni clans forced King Ngwane i R R MR11 33 o and you want to see rare black rhinos in III to lead his people south to lands by the il it S the wild, continue east to the stunning Pongola River, in what is now southern Swazi- Lavumisa Salitje Mkhaya Game Reserve ( p612 ). land. Today, Swazis consider Ngwane III to Onverwacht Golela Pongola Two Weeks Do the one week itinerary, plus have been the first king of Swaziland. Phongolo KWAZULU-NATAL Pongolapoort River (Pongola) Dam view wildlife at the extensive Hlane Royal Clan encroachment continued, and the next Paulpietersburg (SOUTH AFRICA) N National Park ( p611 ) and Mlawula Nature Re- king, Sobhuza I, also came under pressure 2 R Biva 66 serve ( p612 ). On your circular route back from the Zulu. He withdrew to the Ezulwini ne River Jozini to Mbabane, drop into Piggs Peak ( p610 ), Valley, which remains the centre of Swazi To Durban (375km) 600 SWAZILAND •• History lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com SWAZILAND •• The Culture 601 royalty and ritual today. Trouble with the Zulu interests in Swaziland, and the result was to elections in 1964, Mbokodvo won a major- they dislike embarrassment of any kind; Swazis continued, though the next king, Mswazi (or chaos. The Boer administration collapsed with ity and, at the next elections in 1967, won are as gracious and good-humoured as they Mswati), managed to unify the whole king- the 1899–1902 Anglo-Boer War, and after- all the seats. Independence was achieved on are proud of their small but culturally strong dom and, by the time he died in 1868, a Swazi wards the British took control of Swaziland 6 September 1968. kingdom. nation was secure. Mswazi’s subjects called as a protectorate. The country’s constitution was largely the That said, there is widespread dissatisfac- themselves people of Mswazi, or Swazis. During this troubled time, King Sobhuza work of the British. In 1973 the king sus- tion with the lack of progress in their coun- II was only a young child, but Labotsibeni, pended it on the grounds that it did not accord try’s current socio-economic climate, as well European Interference his mother, acted ably as regent until her son with Swazi culture. Four years later, the parlia- as the perceived disintegration in family life During the same period the Zulu were com- took over in 1921. Throughout the regency ment reconvened under a new constitution and morals, as reflected in the devastating ing under pressure from both the British and and for most of Sobhuza’s long reign, the that vested all power in the king. Sobhuza II, effects of HIV/AIDS. Swazi critics and wom- the Boers, creating frequent respites for the Swazis sought to regain their land, a large then the world’s longest-reigning monarch, en’s rights advocates rally against the current Swazis. However, from the mid-19th century portion of which was owned by foreign in- died in 1982.