SWAZILAND 597 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © (Hello) 268 %

SWAZILAND 597 © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © (hello) 268 %

Monarchy, cultural festivals, Monarchy, cultural festivals, 1.1 million Swati, English Sawubona/sanibona Mbabane Lilangeni, plural emalangeni (E)

17,364 sq km Capital: Country code: for: Famous high incidence of HIV/AIDS Languages: Money: Phrase: Population: Area:

FAST FACTS FACTS FAST

Visitors can enjoy rewarding and delightfully low-key wildlife watching, adrenaline-boost- low-key and delightfully wildlife rewarding can enjoy Visitors The monarchs in Africa. Overseeing the kingdom remaining is King Mswati III, one of three makes easy to get around. Accommodation includes Swaziland excellent road system The Embedded between Mozambique and South Africa, the kingdom and South Africa, Swaziland is one of the of Mozambique Embedded between it makes up for in its rich culture lacks in size What the country smallest countries in Africa. lack of With its laid-back, friendly people and relative ambience. and heritage, and relaxed neighbours. change of pace from its larger racial animosity, it’s a complete Swaziland also boasts traditions. ing activities, mountain panoramas and lively stunning superb walking handicrafts. and high-quality history of resistance but combined with the Swazis’ distinguished monarchy has its critics, sense of national pride, and a strong it has fostered and the Zulus, to the Boers, the British – the Incwala ceremony festivals in its national is exemplified This is flourishing. local culture ). p607 text, dance (see the boxed and the Umhlanga (Reed) Many travellers and upscale retreats. family-friendly hotels a decent network of hostels, but it’s well worth Kruger National Park, makeAfrica’s a flying visit on their way to South if you can. lingering here S w a z i l a n d SWAZILAND

ITINERARIES 598

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

wilderness areas. land’s mostenchanting andunspoilt pisi Gorge ing wondrouswhite-water rapids. Usutu River Mkhaya Game Reserve Game Mkhaya the wild,continueeasttostunning rareand youwanttosee blackrhinos in and avarietyof birds.Ifyouhave time manyantelope zebras,giraffes, species see Wildlife Sanctuary and make atripintotherelaxing Valleys the pretty plenty. Spendtwodayspokingaround in ahalf-day posal, One Week Camp. typical AfricafromShewula Mountain Plateauon theLebombo andoverlooking track thebeaten Off bargainits comfortable lodges. awildernessandrelaxinging through in Mlilwane WildlifeSanctuary Reserve Nature Malolotja black rhinos inthewild. Reserve Game Mkhaya to Mbabane, dropinto serve National Park view wildlife attheextensive Two Weeks

LONELY INDEX PLANET MUCH? HOW

Barbecued maize Souvenir T-shirt Bottle ofbeer 1L ofbottledwater 1L ofpetrol Basket Batik hanging Coffee Internet perhour US$6.50 Traditional dance/culturalgroup SWAZILAND •• Highlights SWAZILAND ••Highlights ( p612 ). Onyourcircularroute back 68) including (p608), US$0.80-1.70 ( p613 ) Hikingintwoof Swazi- US$5 With only a week atyourdis- With onlyaweek Do the one week itinerary,plus Do theoneweek (see theboxed(see text, p608 ) Shoot- Ezulwini 61) and (p611) US$0.80 US$1.10-1.50 US$8 66) yul probably you’ll (p606); US$11 ( p611 ) Camping high high Camping ( p611) US$0.40 66) and (p606) US$4.50 ( p612 ). ( p612 rare ) Seeing US$0.80 Mbabane

60) or ( p610) Piggs Peak Mlawula Nature Re- Mlawula Nature 66) Wander- ( p606) Lobamba 63) is (p603) Hlane Royal Malkerns Malkerns Mlilwane (p606), ( p610 ),

Ngwem-

and July. are the coolest months, withfrostsinJune cember andlastuntilApril.May toAugust lowveld are sometimesvery cold. in winter itcanget cool.Winter onthe nights countrythetemperatureshigh are lowerand hot, withtemperatures often over 40°C;inthe Summersmountains. onthelowveld are very tial thunderstorms andmostlyinthewestern Most rainfallsinsummer,usuallytorren- CLIMATE &WHENTOGO Valley, which remains the centre of Swazi from the Zulu.He withdrew totheEzulwini king, SobhuzaI, also cameunderpressure have thefirst been kingof Swaziland. land. Today,SwazisconsiderNgwane IIIto Pongola River, inwhatisnow southernSwazi- III toleadhispeoplesouthlands bythe from otherNguniclansforcedKing Ngwane migrations, see p39 .) information ontheBantu family. (Fordetailed and adynastywasfoundedbytheDlamini near whatisnowMaputo inMozambique, intheareadown theeastcoast.Aclansettled Southern Africa,onegroup,theNguni,moved Swazi peoplearrived relatively recently. remains datingback110,000years –butthe land archaeologists have discovered human habited for a longtime–ineastern Swazi- The area in- thatisnowSwazilandhasbeen HISTORY

heading northtoMalolotja. inMbabaneand starting route clockwise, lage of area, vil- orvisitthefascinatingghost Reserve take adetourtohike in an area knownforitshandicrafts,and Clan encroachment continued, andthenext In themid-18thcenturyincreasing pressure During thegreat migrationsinto Bantu wildlife parksandreserves. unique culture, andpretty andaccessible its friendlypeople,relaxed atmosphere, Africa, it’swellworthdiverting here for South into yourone-monthtripthrough River ( p613 ) andshoot therapidson some action:hike inthe itineraries andtake extratimeoutfor land inthistime. Jointheprevious two One month The rainsusuallybeginaroundearlyDe- ( p608 ). IfSwazilandisincorporated Bulembu ( p610 ), anunspoiled wilderness You canabsorb mostof Swazi- ( p611 ). Youcoulddothis Ngwempisi Gorge Ngwempisi Gorge Malolotja Nature Nature Malolotja lonelyplanet.com Usutu lonelyplanet.com (25km) To Badplaas MR19 (335km) Middelburg) (via Carolina& To Johannesburg SWAZILAND Bothasnek ὈὈ ὈὈ Waverley Paulpietersburg Nerston Piet Retief 33 R Houtkop (SOUTH AFRICA) Nelshoogte Pass Sandlane MPUMALANGA Bothashoop 17 N 38 R MR18 Luphohlo Dam Mhlambanyatsi Lundzi

Sicunusa Oshoek Biva

Mankayane Mahamba L

Mgazini

MR4 Saddleback Pass u

s ne u

SWAZILAND

h w

Gege

Bhunya a

n Ngwenya

MR9 d

a Josefsdal

Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ o

River l

To Nelspruit

Mlilwane i

v Malolotja

a 40

e R n

r Motjane (8km)

e M N Loyengo Ngwempisi Gorge

N NR

Nhlangano Barberton 2

R g Mantenga

v a WS e w r h e NR Forbes Reef

l m MR3 Mgwayiza Hawane Dam a Hawane NR

Mahlanya n p Range KWAZULU-NATAL

(SOUTH AFRICA) i

g MBABANE

Bulembu s

a Ezulwini i Enkhaba

t MR9

s Malkerns MR26 h Lobamba Valley G a R ra i v Maguga Dam

n Valley Ezulwini

d e 38

R r Peak Piggs Va MR1 Hlathikulu

l M13

l Matsapha ey Makonjwa Mhlosheni Mkondvo River Sidvokodvo Airport Matsapha MR11 M

M Phophonyane Falls l Manzini u

Komati m

u Mhlosheni a Hhohho

SWAZILAND l

u ti

Pongola

N z R i g i

MR5 ve Mafutseni

w r

R To Malelane Luve

Ngonini

v v

(22km)

L u

Onverwacht m u

R570

Hhelehhele s

River a u Sihultse t

M Matsamo

f Jeppe's Reef h u Herefords

l B MR8 Salitje R a

t u Mliba

Mpisi R

i h l M R

v u G u ive i Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈ ὈὈ

e z o n r e v r MR3 b

r e g g u (Pongola) Phongolo

r a l

e u Bholekane R Sithobela T z i a v Siphofaneni i n e m e

Mnjoll

Maloma r Dam Usutu b River Reservoir 66 u Sihhoya R

River

t Sand Si River ti i l Mkhaya n o WS NR NP GR LEGEND River i GR Mpaka Wildlife Sanctuary Nature Reserve National Park Game Reserve Phuzumoya To Malelane 20miles 30km 0 0 R571 (10km) Tshaneni Mananga Lubuli MR8 ὈὈ ὈὈ Big Bend Usutu Hlane Royal Golela Mhlume Lavumisa MR16 River Lonhlupheko NP Komatipoort Pongolapoort Tambankulu Simunye Lomahasha

Nyetane

van Eck Dam Nsoko MR7

Dam Dam

Hendick To Durban(375km) Siteki

Sifunga Mhlumeni

Dam Mlawula NR Jozini N

To Maputo(50km) Lusutfu 2

Maphiveni

Phinduvuke L E L

B O M B O B M O B M O Z A M B I Q U E

Namaacha GR Mbuluzi

Shewula

M S

N O U I N T A 2

Goba River 599

2 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND responsibility foradministering theirvarious had meant thatboththeBritishandBoers chunks of territory. ‘Independence’infact defined itsborders, andSwazilandlostlarge anteed Swaziland’s‘independence’,butalso in1877. itself nexed theZAR theBritishan- this couldhappen,however, with Swaziland,which wasintheway.Before decided toextend itscontroltoMaputo along largeleased of expanses land. missionaries andfarmers, manyof whom European carpetbaggers –hunters, traders, sor, Mbandzeni,inherited akingdomrife with newproblems. Mswazi’ssucces- ans brought the arrivalof increasing numbers of Europe- fromthemid-19thcentury Swazis. However, creatingthe Boers, frequent respites forthe ing underpressure fromboththeBritishand periodtheZuluwereDuring thesame com- Interference European themselves peopleof Mswazi,orSwazis. nation wassecure. Mswazi’ssubjectscalled dom and,bythetimehediedin1868,aSwazi Mswati), managed tounifythewholeking- thenextking,Mswazi(or continued, though royalty andritualtoday.TroublewiththeZulu 600 The Pretoria Convention of 1881guar- The Boers’ South African Republic (ZAR) SouthAfricanRepublic(ZAR) The Boers’ stability, as wellasbeingthe foundationofits continued independence. the clanlinksresulting fromhismarriagesmight be seenasthesourceofSwaziland’srelative powerand tohiscountry,including polygamy.Indeed,aSwaziking’s ating customsimportant stitutional monarchunderademocratic system ofgovernment. the independenceofSwazination. Even advocates pro-democracy seektomaintainacon- (andqueenmothers)whosecuredhe istheNgwenyama(Lion),adescendant ofthegreat kings andholdingZenahim ofabducting againstherwill. tobecomehis10thwife.Zena accusing Mahlangu, tocourt, Zena’s theking mothertriedtotake to fightthespread ofHIV/AIDS.Heendedthebanayearearly. teenage17-year-old, females twomonthsafter sexbanonthekingdom’s imposingafive-year and humanrightsgroups. criticised foritsnonprogressive andauthoritariannature bySwazicritics,foreign governments extreme poverty andhighincidenceofHIV –have upsetcritics. constitutionhasbeenstrongly His borne himachild),andhasmore than200siblings. the countrywithhismother. 13wives, Hehastaken includingonefiancée(thosewho’ve not Mswati IIIwascrownedin1986whenhe18,andhassinceruled second of67sons,King bothpopularityandcontroversy. MswatiIII,Africa’s lastabsoluteKing monarchy,courts The MOVERS &SHAKERS: KING MSWATI III Meanwhile, for the king, traditionallawsandcustomsreignMeanwhile, forthe king, supreme. He believes inperpetu- Reformers, however, isahighly revered mustreckon thattheking with thefact figurehead; At the 2002Reedfestival, withtradition,hechoseayoungwoman,18-year-old again inkeeping hascausedroyalripplesseveralThe timesover king choosingawife: in2001hemarrieda –mostnotablyhisexpensive actions tastesHis andopulentlifestyle inthefaceofhiscountry’s SWAZILAND •• History SWAZILAND ••History crimination. WhentheBritishfinallyagreed Swazi culture, butalsotoeschew racialdis- ment, which pledged traditional tomaintain the Mbokodvo(Grindstone)NationalMove- Swazi politicalpartiesformedatthistimewas in accordancewithSwaziculture. Oneof the Europeans, andanationalcouncilformed of alegislative of council,composed elected thecreationIn 1960KingSobhuzaIIproposed Independence again underSwazicontrol. 1968, abouttwo-thirdsof thekingdom was money.Bythetimeofraise independencein Witwatersrand mines(nearJohannesburg) to workinthe the landback,andmanysought terests. encouraged Swazistobuy Labotsibeni portion of which wasownedbyforeign in- toregainSwazis sought theirland,alarge and formostof Sobhuza’slongreign, the took over theregency in1921.Throughout his mother,acted ably asregent untilherson II wasonlyayoungchild, butLabotsibeni, as aprotectorate. wards theBritishtookcontrolof Swaziland War,andafter-the 1899–1902Anglo-Boer with chaos. administrationcollapsed TheBoer interests inSwaziland, andtheresult was During thistroubledtime,KingSobhuza lonelyplanet.com 6 September 1968. 6 September Independencewasachieved on all theseats. ity and,atthenextelectionsin1967,won to electionsin1964,Mbokodvowonamajor- lonelyplanet.com to their being. A nonconfrontational people, to theirbeing. Anonconfrontational of Swazi identityand ethnic pride,integral archy –hasfostered anextraordinarysense British andtheZulus –alongwiththemon- guished historyof resistance the tothe Boers, lack of racialanimosities.TheSwazis’distin- in itslaid-back, friendlypeopleandrelative What Swazilandlacksinsizeismadeupfor NationalPsyche The THE CULTURE the boxed text, p602 . lost bothparents. Formore information,see in sixpeoplewillbeachild under15whohas AIDS orphansinthecountry,andby2010one years. There are currently more than 200,000 hasfallenasaresultexpectancy from58to33 15and49yearsadults between of age), andlife infection rate intheworld(almost39%for HIV the countrywithworld’shighest Botswanaas Swaziland hasnowsurpassed into sharpperspective isthescourge of AIDS: abandonment. absolute monarchy), ratherthanitscomplete (demanding aconstitutionalinstead of an called onlyformodificationof themonarchy the foreseeable future. Even reformers have hold theupperhandinSwazipoliticsfor the kingandhisadvisers willcontinueto recent of abuses royalprivilege, it’slikely that and increasing with populardissatisfaction activities. Yet, politicaltensions despite these change have metwithlegislationtocurbtheir opposition groupstopress fordemocratic Attempts illegal) byunionsand(officially Swaziland Today theboxedmonarch (see text, opposite ). pre-eminence, forbetter asabsolute orworse, thetraditionalwayoftain life his andtoassert in 1986andcontinuestorepresent andmain- died in1982. then theworld’slongest-reigning monarch, that vested allpowerintheking.SobhuzaII, ment reconvened underanewconstitution with Swaziculture. Fouryears later, theparlia- pended itonthegroundsthatdidnotaccord work of theBritish.In1973kingsus- Putting these constitutionalwranglings Putting these The youngMswatiIIIascendedthethrone The country’sconstitutionwaslargely the SWAZILAND••TheCulture Mozambique, finallymoving inthe mid-18th broke in fromthe maingroupand settled language speakers Africa who fromCentral of thegeneral, gradualmigrationof Bantu- The ancestors of modern-daySwaziswere part Population HIV/AIDS epidemic. of particularlythe effects cumstances, the attendance isdecreasing duetosocialcir- houses. particularly inthecities,live inWestern-style in thetraditionalbeehive huts,whileothers, of thecouple. to thefathers of thecouplebymothers ments are traditionallyinitiated byarequest but permittingdivorce. Marriage arrange- marriage conventions, rejecting polygamy manySwazisalsofollowWesternalthough for thehusbandtotake anumber of wives, Traditionalmarriagealways practised. allows polygamy ispermitted andexists,itisnot family isintegral toaperson’s life. While followed closely. or Western suits–andculturalfestivals are complemented withashieldandknobkerries) in lifein everyday –business maybeconducted Ancient traditionsare toandinherent vital Daily Life theboxedthemselves (see text, opposite ). lack of respect for theidentityof theSwazi disrespect for himasoften interpreted asa king is,ingeneral, very regarded highly and As thesymbolicheadof theSwazifamily, andculturalpractices. cal andsocialaffairs dislike outsiders meddlingininternal politi- religiouspatriotic anddeeply Swazistend to of especiallythose women.Butthe and rights, system, which stiflesindividualautonomy advocatesen’s rights rallyagainstthecurrent ofeffects HIV/AIDS.Swazicriticsandwom- and morals,asreflected inthedevastating as theperceived disintegration infamilylife try’s current socio-economicclimate, aswell tion withthelackof progress intheircoun- kingdom. are proudof theirsmallbutculturallystrong are asgraciousandgood-humoured asthey they dislike embarrassmentof anykind;Swazis Many peopleinruralareas continuetolive Schooling isnotcompulsory.Therate of As inotherpartsof Africa,theextended thereThat said, iswidespread dissatisfac- emahiya (traditionalSwazidress, often

601 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND career in jazzbeganthe 1940s. Nkosi, whose African musicians) wasZakes merly lumpedunder thebannerof South and reed flute. ments includethecalabash, kuduhorn,rattle andmarriage. Traditionalinstru- as harvest rolein otherfestivals,play animportant such festivals.and Reed Musicandrhythm also and dancing,mostprominentlythe Incwala Traditional musicisintegral toSwazifestivals Music &CRAFTS ARTS lowings also. andJewishlims, Baha’i faiths have smallfol- and Methodists makingupthebalance. Mus- Anglicans worship, withRomanCatholics, mix of Christianityandtraditionalindigenous Around 70%of thepopulationisZionist,a RELIGION certain. inthenextcoupleofstatistics decadesseem making ahorrificreversal of itspopulation of Swaziadultsare tobeinfected thought – here isalmostbeyondcomprehension –39% them looksbleak.TheHIV/AIDSpandemic thefuturelion people,although formanyof in 1904,todayhovers aroundjustover amil- 5% of Swazislive andworkinSouthAfrica. descent.Aboutboth AfricanandPortuguese are alsoanumberof Mozambicanrefugees, of Zulu, Tsonga (Shangaan) andEuropean. There Ndebele. African peoplesincludingtheZuluand and linguisticheritage withotherSouthern land. Today,Swazisstillshare cultural aclose century intowhatbecameknownasSwazi- 602 Almost allpeoplehere are Swazi.Therest are The mostprominent jazzmusician(for- The population,which wasabout85,000 a quarter ofthepopulation.The Lebomboa quarter hardhit. Plateau hasbeenparticularly orphans. In2004–05,droughtconditionsmeantthatemergency foodaidwassuppliedtoaround food toindividualsandtheirfamilies,includingout-of-school children, pregnant womenand being abletosecure workormeanstobuyfood.Overseas foodagenciesare currently supplying one orbothparents tothedisease. is predicted tobedeadfromthediseaseby2010,andalready 200,000children have losteither ofSwaziland’spopulation bythenationalhealthministry,aquarter 1992). Accordingtoasurvey world –around39%oftheadultpopulationinSwazilandisHIVpositive (compared to3.9%in Swaziland hasnowsurpassedBotswanaasthecountrywithhighestHIVinfection rate inthe HIV/ AIDS &FAMINE This situationhasagreat onfoodinsecurity,withpoorandvulnerablehouseholdsnot impact SWAZILAND •• Religion SWAZILAND ••Religion hut opposite thecattlebyre isoccupiedbythe cance, reflecting bothwealthandprestige. The ritualandpracticalsignifi- has animportant central tothetraditionalhomestead. Thisarea circular area bylogsandbranches, is enclosed quarters andguesthousing.Thecattlebyre, a homesteadsLarger have huts forbachelors’ a yardsurroundedbyreed fences forprivacy. homestead, each wife hasherownhuts,plus totheSwazisocialunit.Inapolygamous tant rounded byreed fences. are thatched withdrygrass andoften sur- suburbs andlarger towns.Thebeehive huts areas tothemore inthe Western-style house the traditionalroundbeehive hutof therural The architecture of Swazilandranges from Architecture wares such as tery, weaponsandimplements. Woven grass- Swaziland’s handicrafts includejewellery,pot- Handicrafts ally doneforfun. times performedcompetitively andoccasion- at festivals andformaloccasions,itissome- dance isawesome. As well asbeingperformed energy andphysicalnature of thisrhythmic ing danceperformedbyteams of males.The theboxedfestivals (see text, p607 ). Dance isanintegral partof Swazicultural Dance layout of thetraditionalhomestead. and corrugatedthe iron,theystillmaintain construct square fromcementblocks houses mother of theheadman.Nowadays,whilemany ern Africa, see ern Africa,see p52 . The Sibhacadanceisavigorousfoot-stamp- The traditional For more informationonmusicinSouth- liqhaga umuti (grassware ‘bottles’) (homestead) isimpor- lonelyplanet.com The Land The ENVIRONMENT ranging frombowlstoknobkerries. and matsare popular,asare woodenitems, lonelyplanet.com also well worth visiting. These three reserves threealso well worth visiting.These reserves ( p611 ( Game Reserve ) andMkhaya p612 ) are Ezulwini Valley. HlaneRoyalNationalPark Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary( p606 ) inthe geographical diversity. toget tois Easiest reflectThe five thecountry’s mainreserves National Parks indigenous plants. serve the NationalTrustCommission,help tocon- administered particularlythose by reserves, totheattentionbrought of Nature botanists. are probably speciesthathave not yetbeen ness of partsof thecountrysidemeansthere plant life inSouthernAfrica. Theremote- flora andaccountsfor14%of therecorded smallinsize,SwazilandisrichAlthough in PLANTS and middleveld. inthelowveldbe foundroostinginhouses cies of batisthelittlefree-tailed bat,which can one. present, but you’dbeluckytosee arejackals are Leopards foundinthereserves. thecountry,whilehyenasand throughout andlarge-spottedgooses genets are common reintroducedbeen tonature Mon- reserves. elephants, warthogs,rhinosandlions)have around thecountry.Many species(such as dotted andprivate wildlife reserves reserves larger animalsare restricted tothenature daysthe species inSouthernAfrica. These representing athirdof nonmarinemammal Swaziland hasabout121speciesof mammals, ANIMALS Wildlife the borderwithMozambique. the east,harsh form Mountains Lebombo populated, butnowhometosugarestates. To try. Theeastern halfisscrubbylowveld, lightly into theheavily populated centre of thecoun- dwindletomiddleveld lyptus. Themountains There are large of plantations pineandeuca- consisting mainlyof short,sharpmountains. northwest tosavanna scrubintheeast. of ecologicalzones,fromrainforest in the tiny, hasawiderangeSwaziland, although The mostcommonof the19recorded spe- The western edge of thecountryishighveld, MBABANE is also a booking agent for the reserves. The is alsoabookingagent forthereserves. administrative centre here fromManzini in zini, one reason why theBritishmoved their makeHills. These Mbabanecooler thanMan- here. in theDlangeni setting It’sinapleasant script andthere ordo isn’tthatmuch tosee largest towninSwaziland,ispretty nonde- mba- (pronounced Mbabane pop 60,000 MBABANE known as such asstewAfrican staples andpap(also canbefound.Inmoreseafood, remote areas, wini Valleys. cuisine,including Portuguese the touristareas of theMalkerns andEzul- good range of placestoeatinMbabane and you won’teatbadlyinSwaziland.There’s a it’s notexactlyagourmet’sparadise, Although FOOD &DRINK the impactof HIV/AIDS. toekestruggling outalivingordealingwith are simply notontheagendas of individuals management onsustainability issues focused is amajor of cause landdegradation;land- the lossof indigenous certain plants.Poverty reliance onnaturalmedicinalplantshasleadto have resulted of inillegalhunting.Theuse and which ismadefromtheskinof thegrey duiker, of maletraditionalattire, such asthe of soilerosion.Someitems cattlehascaused environment. As theovergrazing inLesotho, some traditionalpracticesare notkindtothe cultural identityandnationalcohesiveness, tices andcustomsprovides of astrongsense ofWhile theimportance traditionalprac- Environmental Issues near theMozambicanborder. Mlawula ( p612 ) isinharsh lowveld country withsomevery goodhikingtrails. reserve Malolotja ( serves. p610 ) isarugged highlands Hawane, Malolotja andMlawulaNature Re- National TrustCommissionrunsMantenga, Centre, EzulwiniValley)tenga Craft p606; (Map nearLobamba. Nature Reserve, .sz) mission (Map p606 ; are privately runas part of the isrunfromthereception attheMantenga The booking office ofThe bookingoffice the

Mp p606; (Map % % mealie meal 528 3943/4;www.biggame.co.sz) /fax 4162180;www.swazitrails.co.sz; Man- % 416 1151,1178;www.sntc.org ) are common. in EzulwiniValley National TrustCom- baa Big Game Parks Big Game -nay), the Swazi Trails . majobo 603

SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND Impilo Clinic Clinic Medisun Clinic Mbabane Services Medical are fromUS$3.50perhour. includ ing intheMall andSwaziPlaza. Prices Internet centres are dotted aroundtown Access Internet Traumalink 911 Police station Fire Emergency INFORMATION area, is on PlazaMall Dr. Distributor Rd.TheMall, anothershopping Westernis GwamileSt.SwaziPlazaoff Mbabane isalittledisjointed. Themainstreet ORIENTATION Valleys have plentyof attractions. 1902. TheadjacentEzulwiniandMalkerns 604 ambulance service. number is (300m) Grifters To Post (22km) To OshoekBorder Nonshared Taxi Rank...... (see14) Bus Station...... (see 14) Bus &MinibusTaxiRank...... Affordable CarHire...... (see 12) TRANSPORT 1 3 2 MBABANE

( Micho %

MBABANE •• Orientation MBABANE ••Orientation

Mvemve Mvemve nubovu 404 3333) % ὈὈ Mbhilibhi St AC ( 999.

% (

Shield St Shield (St Mic (St Dunn ( %

( Sozisa Rd Sozisa Ben % (

Somhlolo St (Gilfillan St) (Gilfillan St Somhlolo %

505 7430) In Manzini. 505 7430)InManzini. Howe St Howe

404 2221)Thepoliceemergency hael's Rd) hael's

Riverside Dr 416 2800)InEzulwini. 404 2423; St Michael’s Rd) 404 2423;StMichael’s 606 0911)A24-hourparamedic 14 13 2 Coronation Mall

The B2 (Mbabane Park

Libandla Mandela Plaza Mall Dr Arms (27km) To Foresters Smuts St

Bypass Rd)

Dr Sishavi Rd To Cathmar Cottages (3km) Swazi Plaza 14 12

Usutu Rd B Western

Distributor

West Gwamile St Gwamile 1 Kapola GuestHouse(4km); 9 To MountainInn(1.5km); Ezulwini Valley(18km); Post 10 11 Matsapha Airport 8 Manzini (41km);

Msunduza St

Mhlonhlo St St Dzeliwe

6 St Zwide

Polinjane Swaziland Happening inSwaziland and entertainment. These include the tourist bible Theseincludethetourist and entertainment. Free publicationsandbrochures onhotels,restaurants 9am-1pmSat)AttheedgeofSwaziPlaza. 9am-4pm Fri, .welcometoswaziland.com; ities andcrafts. activ- most peoplewouldheadforsightseeing, The EzulwiniandMalkerns Valleys are where There’s inMbabane. notreally much tosee SIGHTS increase. are duringtheday–muggings even onthe main streets. Take precautions inthestreets don’t walkaroundbyyourselfawayfromthe soMbabane isbecomingunsafe atnight, DANGERS &ANNOYANCES office information Tourist Information Tourist Standard Bank NedBank First NationalBank Money

a 4

Siguca

n 5 River

Tin Tin 7

River Cres

Sheffield Rd Sheffield Polinjane Rd Polinjane . 3 M hlo (Swazi Plaza) Rd nhlo (Swazi Plaza)HasanATM. The Mall...... Swazi Plaza...... Indingilizi Gallery&Restaurant ....(see9) Swazi Market...... (see 6) Spar...... (see 13) Shoprite...... (see 12) Plaza TandooriRestaurant...... (see12) Mediterranean Restaurant...... La Casserole...... Indingilizi Gallery&Restaurant...... Finesse...... (see 13) 4 WaysChicken...... Thokoza ChurchCentre...... Swazi Market...... US Embassy...... Tourist InformationOffice...... (see12) Standard Bank&ATM...... (see12) South AfricanHighCommission..(see13) Office...... (see12) Royal SwaziNationalAirways Post Office...... Police Station...... NedBank...... (see 12) Mbabane Clinic...... Internet Centre...... (see13) Internet Centre...... (see12) First NationalBank...... SHOPPING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION andthesmaller (cnr MsunduzaSt&West) 0.2miles 300m 0 0 h ( 9am-4.45pm Mon-Thu, % 404 2531;www lonelyplanet.com What D ’ s onin 13 12 11 10 What 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 A2 B2 B1 B1 B1 B1 C1 B2 C2 C2 C2 A3 B2 ’ s The tastiest henquarterThe tastiest inSwaziland. stalls providestalls abustlingatmosphere. Further intothemarket, fruitandvegetable neat rowsof andcolourfulhandicrafts. stalls monastic innature, smallcleanrooms these Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com End St;campingperpersonUS$6,dmUS$10,dwithshared [email protected]; 112Dzeliwe St;snacksfromUS$3; visiting the lonelyplanet.com 4 WaysChicken EATING is openforallmeals(mainsfromUS$6). and there andgreat panoramas.Therestaurant to thecolonialera,complete here withstains with breakfast fromUS$72/92; ities awaityou. attractive gardensplusasmorgasbord of activ- hills aroundMhlambanyatsi.Cosyroomsand Situated 27km southwestof Mbabanein the the cream teas andBritish-styleinteriors here. BBC-TV’s rwithhalfboardfromUS$61) .za; MR3; watch forthewallpainted withflags. the E65). It’sabout5kmfromMbabanejustoff rooms, butbusieràlacarte chef (mealsE26to abode’s massive porch overlooks greenery. Busy .co.sz; s/d withbreakfast US$54/89) Pine Valley Rd). cabins, about 3.5km northof Mbabane(off cottages anddolls-house–style self-catering St;rUS$27-44; .com/cathmar; 167Lukhalo Cottages Cathmar &TopEnd Midrange (US$3 fromSwaziPlaza). Rd forabout 10minutes. Take atnight ataxi andheadupPolinjane at thepolicestation onto MhlonhloSt,crossthebridge, turnleft Mbabane. Toget here fromGwamileSt,turn bejustthethingtoconvertmight youto with shared bathroomUS$17/22,s/dUS$26/29) only. lers andaidworkers. Self-catering town centre, isapopularhang-outfortravel- of withinwalkingdistance the house, scruffy bathroom US$23) Grifters Budget SLEEPING However, whileinMbabaneitisworth However, Indingilizi Gallery &Restaurant Gallery Indingilizi ChurchCentre Thokoza Mountain Inn Arms Foresters GuestHouse Kapola

( % To the Manor Born 404 5342, 617 0218; www.grifterslodge.com; 404 5342,6170218;www.grifterslodge.com; Swazi Market

(Gwamile St;mainsUS$2;

This laid-back andlikeably ( % MBABANE••Sleeping

( % ( % 404 2781;www.mountaininn.sz;s/d

( 467 4177;www.forestersarms.co % 404 3387;www.swazilodgings ( ais

% Penelope Keith (from 404 0906;www.kapola_eden

(Msunduza St) 404 6681;PolinjaneRd;s/d This comfortable This comfortable ) wouldenjoy Athrowback

) ( % s h Fittingly , withits 404 6213; ) 7am-6pm) Offers

crafts. and lery caféwithsnacks,decadentdesserts h wards Manzini andpoints eastpassthrough (US$1, 45 minutes). Allvehicles headingto- (US$0.70, 50minutes), and Malkerns Valley hour), Ngwenyaand theOshoek borderpost Peak dailytoPiggs minibus taxis (US$2,one theEzulwiniValley.through There are several Manzini (US$1,35minutes) orMatsapha pass Swazi Plaza. Allvehicles headingtowards rankisnear The mainbusandminibustaxi Taxi Bus &Minibus to theterminal. totheairport,fromwhereoff it’salongwalk from MbabanetoManzini gopasttheturn- andminibuses costs aroundUS$19.Buses fromMbabane toMatsaphaA taxi airport To/From theAirport AROUND GETTING from Manzini. yourbestbetistocatch one Plaza; otherwise bound) leave ranknearSwazi fromthetaxi toSouthAfrica(mostlynorth- Minibus taxis THERE&AWAY GETTING regularly. elsewhere are inAfrica. Exhibitions held fromSwazilandand art andcollectables 8.30am-2pm Sat) [email protected]; 112DzeliweSt; and services. Nearby, theMall alsohasanumberof shops andagoodrange of shops. with mostservices Swazi Plazaisalarge, modernshopping centre SHOPPING vendors atSwaziMarket. at theMall. Forfastfood,trythestreet food Gwamile St;mainsUS$7-14; ner) ( and meatdishes. agoodrange of seafood owned placeserves curries. with aTaj Mahal atmosphere andgreat-value mains US$5-12; h % Indingilizi Gallery &Restaurant Gallery Indingilizi There’s aShoprite atSwaziPlazaandaSpar For international food,try Finesse Plaza Tandoori Restaurant and 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-2pmSat) 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, lunch &dinnerMon-Sat) 404 6426;GwamileSt;mainsUS$7-11; Mediterranean Restaurant Mediterranean ( % h Has arange of contemporary 404 5936; the Mall; mainsUS$10-14; 404 5936;theMall; lunch &dinner) h ThisfancyFrench- lunch &dinner) ( Aminiature eatery % 404 7599;SwaziPlaza; h Outdoorgal- 8am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri,

(

h La Casserole ( % % . lunch &din- 404 6213; 404 3212, 605

SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND located inEzulwini. The British-built royalpalace,theEmboState This istheheartof Swaziland’sroyalvalley. LOBAMBA The ley, isuseful. run outof SwaziTrailsintheEzulwiniVal- The crowded withhotels andotherdevelopments. Lobamba. It’s apretty valley,butit’sbecoming away. Mostof thearea’s attractions are near and extends downpastLobambavillage, 18km The royalvalleybeginsjustoutsideMbabane Ezulwini Valley AROUND MBABANE pay fromUS$20. more ToMatsapha atnight. airport,expectto far endof thevalley(fromUS$14),andstill Ezulwini Valley costatleast$US7,more tothe tion bySwaziPlaza. Nonshared tothe taxis Nonshared congregate taxis nearthebussta- Taxi bypass road. the EzulwiniValley, mosttake the although 606 Mbabane (12km) 1 3 2 EZULWINI &MALKERNSVALLEYS To Mantenga Falls Ezulwini tourist office tourist 17 MBABANE ••AroundMbabane Little 14 9 ὈὈ Ὀ ὈὈ Usutu 3 AC 18 Mantenga NatureReserve& Swazi CulturalVillage...... Lozitha StateHouse...... Museum...... (see 5) King SobhuzaIIMemorial& Information...... (see10) Ziggy's InternetCafe&Tourist Tourist Office...... Swazi Trails...... (see1) National TrustCommissionOffice..(see5) Big GameParksOffice...... (see15) SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION

13 Mbabane

River 8 1 22 21

(

4 % 19 20 River Medisun Clinic Medisun 11 416 2180; Mantenga Craft Centre) Craft 416 2180;Mantenga Lobamba 7 MR27 15 5 6 16 10 Memorial Park King SobhuzaII (

% Malkerns Valley 1 3 2 B 416 2800) A1 B1 A1 12 Mahlanya Royal SwaziSpa...... Reilly's RockHilltopLodge...... Nyanza Cottages...... Malandela's B&B...... Lugogo Sun...... Ezulwini Sun...... Royal Kraal...... Parliament...... National Museum...... Mlilwane WildlifeSanctuary...... ap...... A2 Camp...... Mlilwane WildlifeSanctuary Main SLEEPING MR103 23 is 2 , ( This beautifulandtranquil MLILWANE WILDLIFESANCTUARY museum II isa from themuseum is sometimesopentovisitors. Acrosstheroad office.) from theMantenga reception Nature Reserve located here. (Note: thebookingofficeisrun Mlawula andMalolotja is Nature Reserves, .sntc.org.sz) Trust Commissionoffice and a tr some interesting displaysonSwaziculture boxed text, opposite ). ceremony the andtheUmhlangadance(see Royal Kraal from Lobamba. live about10km House intheLozithaState allowed totake photosof it.Swazikingsnow Palace, isn’topentovisitors, andyouare not %

, themostrevered of Swazikings,plusasmall Lusu University Matsapha Next to the museum isthe Next tothemuseum The You can see themonarchy inactionatthe You cansee

528 3943;www.biggameparks.org; admissionUS$2.50; shw

ana River National Museum devoted tohim. devoted Matsapha aditional beehive village. The , useful forfindinginformationabout , useful Airport inLobambaduringtheIncwala 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 A1 A2 B2 B2 A1 A1 A1 B1 B1 A2 SHOPPING DRINKING EATING Mantenga CraftCentre...... (see 1) Sondzela Backpackers(IYHF) Swazi Candles...... Roadside CraftMarket...... Gone Rural...... (see 10) Gables ShoppingCentre...... Baobab Batik...... (see 12) Why Not?...... (see20) If NotGo-GoBar...... House onFire...... (see10) Woodlands Restaurant...... Supermarket...... (see 21) Quatermain's Restaurant...... (see21) Malandela's Restaurant...... (see10) Guava Café...... Calabash Continental...... Willows Lodge...... Lodge...... Shonalanga Cottage...... (see11) 4miles 6km 0 0

( % (adult/child US$3/1.50)

memorial to King Sobhuza toKing memorial MR3 416 1151,1178;www lonelyplanet.com parliament private reserve private D To Manzini 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 National offers offers , which B2 A1 A1 A1 A1 A1 A1 B2 B2 (5km)

Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com make bookings viatelephone oremail. near Sondzela Backpackers Lodge. Youcan Parks office booked (andpaid)inadvance atthe can be All accommodation inthesanctuary SLEEPING per hour). (US$7) andgamewalks(US$4.50per person biking rides (US$14perhour),mountain cluding blackeagles. crocodiles, hipposandavarietyof birds,in- warthogs,antelopezebras, giraffes, species, some finewalksinthearea. Animalsinclude Nyonyane (LittleBird)peak,andthere are Its terrain isdominated bytheprecipitous iseasilyaccessibleandworthavisit. reserve ness of someof theSouthAfricanparks, ning strikes intheregion. named after themanyfires bylight- started Park ( p611 ). Mlilwanemeans‘LittleFire’, ofthe establishment HlaneRoyalNational ( GameReserve Mkhaya p612 ) andsupervised Tedconservationist Reilly.Reillylater opened first protected area, created inthe1950sby h Activities are amusthere. There’s horse haveWhile itdoesn’t thedramaorvast- after, therainsare expected tofall. before thesignthatSwaziscaneatnewyear’scrops. hispeople. Soon Heeatsapumpkin, arrive withtheirplants,water andfoam. on theirjourney.Participants singsongsprohibited duringtherest oftheyear,and Kraal atLobamba. They arrive atdawnandbuilda foamfromthewaves.nation cameintobeing)toskim rivers andsometravel totheIndianOcean(where theDlaminiclanlived longbefore theSwazi the Lebombo Mountainstogatherplants,othergroupsof givesceremony theking hispeoplepermissiontoeatthefirstcropsofnewyear. The Incwala(sometimesNcwala)isthemostsacred Swaziceremony. Duringthis‘firstfruits’ Incwala CEREMONIES SWAZI repeat day.Princesseswearred thedancenext feathers intheirhair. wives fortheking. a week-long debutante ballformarriageableyoungSwaziwomenandashowcaseofpotential nation togetherandreminding thepeopleoftheirrelationship totheking. Itissomethinglike indrawingthe Not assacred asimilarfunction astheIncwala,Umhlanga(Reed)danceserves Umhlanga 6am-5pm) On the third day a bull is sacrificed. On the fourth day, the king breaks hisretreat day,theking On thethirddayabullissacrificed.fourth anddances On thenightoffullmoon,youngmenallover begin alongtrek thekingdom totheRoyal Preparation fortheIncwalabegins someweeksinadvance. On the sixth day they perform thereed danceandcarrytheirreeds daytheyperform tothequeenmother.On thesixth They nearLobambawasSwaziland’s ( % 528 3943/4;www.biggameparks.org) MBABANE••AroundMbabane Big Game Big Game , tuning, butit’sgreat allthesame. of fine- the maincamp–isinneed aslight Royce of Backpacker Hostels’ –justsouthof game.co.sz; s/dfrom US$122/200) Rock Reilly’s End Top for families. is nearthemaincamp,andagood choice person US$15) goodluncheon dishes. The restaurant serves tentedin delightful styleandcanvascomfort. chalets withbreakfast US$42/63) [email protected]; beehivehutsperperson US$9,s/dtented including traditionalbeehive huts. entry gate, complete withsimplethatched huts– inascenicwoodedlocation3.5kmfromthe set with shared bathroomUS$21/33) 2-person huts/dUS$33/47,beehiveperpersonUS$31/44, 3943/4; www.biggame.co.sz; campingperpersonUS$6,dmUS$11, US$21/28) US$8, s/dwithshared bathroomUS$14/22,rondavels/d www.biggameparks.org; campingperpersonUS$5.50,dm (IYHF)Lodge Backpackers Sondzela Midrange & Budget Shonalanga Cottage Camp Main Mlilwane WildlifeSanctuary Mantenga Nature Reserve Nature Mantenga kraal bemanti This self-proclaimed ‘Africa’sRolls Thisself-proclaimed (hut village)withbranchesgathered This spacious self-catering cottage Thisspaciousself-catering Bemanti

Hilltop Lodge Hilltop collect water collect fromSwaziland’s (learnedmen)journeyto

(s/d US$40/53,peradditional Soft adventure ‘safari’ Thishomelycampis ( % Rockon intothis

( % 528 3943/4; www.big 416 1151,1178;

( % bemanti 528 3117;

( %

607

528 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND Happy Valley Hotel) as ney through Africa.ney through a casino. At theRoyalSwazithere’s agolfcourse and Tue-Sat, 10am-5pmSun) the Happy Valley Hotel, feature nightspots attheSunhotels.Several At DRINKING Café meals,headto andforlight ping Centre, Swiss cuisine. h & dinnerTue-Sun) a lovely shadyveranda. ian optionsaswellinternational cuisineon co.sz; mainsUS$5-17; Woodlands Restaurant EATING and the as s Swazi Spa modation inthecountry.There’s the tional.com) offer themostopulentaccom- of thevalleyandMdzimbaMountains. ‘quaintly colonial’dwellinghasstrikingviews luxurious andtranquilaccommodation.This 608 Calabash Continental Calabash Quatermain’s There’s asupermarket intheGablesShop- The Sungroup’shotels (www.suninterna .biggameparks.org forthelatest onoffer, asthesedochange. Mlilwane offers gamedrive ashorter (US$16,minimumtwo people).Checkthewebsite www are sunrise/sunset drive 10amand4pm.Hlanehasatwo-hour (US$20,minimum twopeople); ment. Trips runfromtheEzulwini Valley. offers afull-daytrip(per personUS$84,minimumtwopeople), includinglunchandallequip- through sceniccountry withglimpsesofthe‘flatdogs’(crocodiles) sunningontheriverbanks. river turnstorapidsthrough thenarrowBulunguGorge nearthereserve. One ofSwaziland’shighlightsiswhite-water raftingonthe White-Water Rafting through Rover daytrips(US$55,minimum twopeople,includeslunch).These tripsmustbepre-booked For wildlife drives, theBigGameParks reserves organise good-value offers tours. Mkhaya Land Wildlife Drives GO WILD! ) lunch &dinner) ; the

( Swazi Trails The secondhalf ofthedayisasedateAt a10mwaterfall. trip onestageyou’llhave toportage % MBABANE ••AroundMbabane ) ) , acrosstheroadfromothertwo. inthegroundsof theRoyalSwazi; 416 1343;lightmealsfromUS$4; Ezulwini Sun Lugogo Sun

Big Game Parks ( % Mouth-watering culinaryjour- , athumpingdisco,andthe

( 416 5000;s/dUS$263/280; Specialises in German and inGerman Specialises % h

Mp p606; (Map . 416 3023;mainsUS$8-11; ( lunch &dinner) %

( ( %

% ( % 416 3466;mauriswazi@realnet. 416 4500;s/dUS$169-182; 416 6500;s/dUS$183/196;

Why Not? Mp p606; (Map 416 1187;mainsUS$8-14; % Goodvegetar- /fax 416 2180; www.swazitrails.co.sz; Mantenga Craft Centre, EzulwiniValley)/fax 4162180;www.swazitrails.co.sz; Craft Mantenga (

% % h 416 1061; 528 3943/4;www.biggame.co.sz) 9am-5pm h ai Royal Guava lunch If Fri, to1pmSat) Fri, internet andnecessities,includinganATM. ing ascenicandfundrive. known foritsartsandcraftsoutlets,offer- is theturn-off tothefertile Malkerns Valley, About 7kmsouthof LobambaontheMR103 Valley Malkerns exit off thebypass roadtotheMR103. Manzini, take theEzulwiniValley/Lobamba down thevalleyyougo. US$8.50 toUS$14,dependingonhowfar as manyaren’t keen onstopping. inthevalley, knows thatyouwanttoalight bound minibus,butmake sure thedriver During thedayyoucouldget onaManzini- THERE&AWAYGETTING modern clutch of tourist-oriented shops.Themore Centre Craft Swazi Spa. Therathertired-looking Market Craft The bestcraftsare tobefoundatthe SHOPPING US$4.50) Bar Not Go-Go at Malandela’s complex. mation mation at Nonshared fromMbabanecost taxis There’s internet accessand touristinfor- If you’re drivingfromeitherMbabaneor

( let % Gables ShoppingCentre Gables you

Usutu River ( 528 3423;perhr$6.20;

hasasupermarket andalsooffers ( % Ziggy’s Internet Cafe & Tourist Infor- &Tourist Cafe Ziggy’s Internet h

( % . Set arrival and departure times . Setarrivalanddeparture letitallhangout. 416 1136; sunrise tosunset) sunrise 416 1061;HappyValley Hotel;admission h . This largely sluggish 8am-5pm) opposite theRoyal h lonelyplanet.com

( h 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) hastheusual 8am-5pm Mon- Mantenga Mantenga Roadside

for baskets, matsandtraditionalclaypots. US$2, mainsUS$5-9; h here. Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com stables, backpackersstables, dormandawell-equipped US$27, cottagesperadultE220) [email protected]; dmUS$9,caravans/dUS$22/30,d Nyanza Cottages EATING & SLEEPING lonelyplanet.com Apart from visitingthemarket, youcanhap- ispackedThe upper section with handicrafts. market (someviolent)aremuggings common. and becare ful; thecity’scrimerate isrising– hint of menace–watch outforpickpockets from easy-going ruralSwaziland.There isa shopping malls;itfeels like adifferent country dominated byofficeblocksandacoupleof small centreand industrialhubwhose is a renegade commandoburnt itdown. Boer War from 1890to1902.DuringtheAnglo-Boer tive centre forthesquabblingBritishandBoers country’s industrialcentre, wastheadministra- Manzini, Swaziland’slargest townandthe Manzini there’s thisplace. h h Gone Rural SHOPPING fromAfricantheatreeverything toraves. space–ithosts experimental-performance decor dela’s complexisafantastically ated .co.sz) House onFire ENTERTAINMENT of thebestrestaurants intheregion. Part of theMalandela’s complex,thisisone Malkerns Valley, nearMalandela’s B&B. look thesugar-cane offtheMR27in fields.Set s/d US$38/55) pool andasculpture garden. place offers stylish,ethnicAfricanrooms,a with breakfast US$25; caravan. Batik. Signposted nexttoBaobab Baobab Batik Today Manzini isanactive commercial Willows Lodge B&B Malandela’s Manzini’s maindrawcardis its colourful Swazi Candles Restaurant Malandela’s 8.30am-5pm) 8am-5pm Mon-Sat,9am-5pmSun) 8am-5pm) This well-knownvenue, attheMalan-

(cnr Mhlakuvane & Mancishane Sts; &Mancishane (cnr Mhlakuvane

These self-catering cottages over- self-catering These ( If you’re dye-ingforahanging %

( Wax lyricalaboutthedesigns

% ( (

( h

528 3436;www.goneruralswazi.com; % NORTHWESTERN NORTHWESTERN SWAZILAND % % (Nyanza HorseTrails; 528 2001;houseonfire@africaonline s

( % lunch &dinnerMon-Sat,Sun) 528 3242; www.baobab-batik.com; 528 3242;www.baobab-batik.com; 528 3219;www.swazicandles.com; 602 1284;www.swaziwillows.com; ) AlongtheMR27,this 605 2598,5283448;rperperson A workingfarmwith

( % 528 3115;entréesfrom Theplacetogo h % closed Sun) 528 3090; . located inManzini. pool bar and several stylishrestaurants.pool barandseveral caters fortheconference crowd,withgym, accommodation options. Beware the heavyaccommodation options. Beware north, along withsomeexcellent hikingand are themainfeatures of Swaziland’sbeautiful streams andwaterfalls andplunging ravines andwoodlands,Lush hills,plantations SWAZILAND NORTHWESTERN morning. See p299 and p591 formore info. South AfricaandMozambique) goearlyinthe (to taxis KFC upthehill.Mostlong-distance bique leave fromthecarparknextto‘old’ toMozam- costs aroundUS$7.Minibustaxis minutes). Anonshared toMatsapha taxi airport the EzulwiniValley toMbabane isUS$1.10(35 find somenonshared up Aminibustaxi taxis. northern endof LouwSt,where you can also rankisatthe The mainbusandminibustaxi THERE&AWAYGETTING Ngwane St. burgers atgoodprices. and salads a decentcoffee, pluspizza,pasta, mall –thisplaceisthebestspottoheadfor & dinner) Villiers St;pizza/breakfast fromUS$4/3; as Ngwane &duToitSts;s/dwithbreakfast fromUS$85/110; Busstop(see compound. It’saBaz p616 ). posite the Taiwanese Agricultural Mission along theM103towardsEzulwiniValley, op- ‘jungle’ barandpool.Head 8kmwestof town a surgery butwithmuch more fun–activities, as thisplaceoperates asefficiently tor’s house, with shared bathroomUS$25; campingperpersonUS$6.50,dmUS$10.30,d backpackers.com; Swaziland Backpackers SLEEPING &EATING tic Swaziexperience. .co.sz) through Village visitswithovernight are stays available TOURS pily move on.The Fontana di Trevi Pizzeria Fontana diTrevi Takeaways abound in Bhunu Mall andon Hotel Tum’s George . ForaboutUS$60you’llhave anauthen- ) InanAfrican Manzini’s newestandfanciesthotel Woza Nawe Woza

( % Impilo Clinic (

( % % is 604 4102;wozanawe@realnet piazza 505 8991;www.tgh.sz;cnr 518 7225;www.swaziland

( % Formerlyadoc- ) 505 3608;theHub, –ashopping h

( % breakfast, lunch 505 7430) 609

is SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND terrain ranges andhigh- frommountainous rugged andforthemostpartunspoiled.The well-equipped (butinfrequently main used) person atmain camp/ontrailsUS$9/6) with advancenotice. entrance gate. Wildlife drives canbearranged office atthe permit (US$0.70)withthereserve toarrange camp.You’llalsoneed a the base camp stove, as fires are notpermitted outside aswella bring whatever foodyou’llneed, north. Foralllonger walks,you’ll have to inthe in thesouthtoMgwayizaRange jauntthatextendsweek-long from Ngwenya part of Africa. areattractions; several foundonlyinthis birds. Wildflowers andrare plantsare added withoverthologist’s paradise, 280speciesof around 200kmof hikingtrails,andanorni- rivers, includingtheKomatiRiver. bushveld, allwithstreams andcutbythree altitude grasslandtoforest andlower-lying US$3/1.70; ( middleveld/highveld beautiful This MALOLOTJA NATURE RESERVE main road. tion of theMR1andMR3,1.5kmoff the Peak8km upthePiggs roadfromthejunc- are inaconverted stabled barn.It’sabout with ethnicAfricaninteriors. Backpackers blend of traditionalSwazimaterials andglass per personUS$17) .co.sz; dmUS$12,chaletdwithbreakfast US$72,beehives oldest knownmines. andoneof theworld’s around 40,000BC (admission US$3.50; is1kmfurtheruptheroad. ful tapestries, ( SwazilandTapestrieslotane Studios/Phumulanga andtableware.and birdsaswellvases tocreatecycled glassisused Africananimals 4142; Mbabane. Atthe the Oshoek bordercrossingontheroadto Tiny Ngwenya (Crocodile)is5kmeastof NGWENYA they canlimitvisibilitytoalmostzero. mists thatrollinduringthesummermonths – 610 % % Hawane Resort Accommodation consists of Hiking trailsrange fromshort walkstoa It’s anexcellentwalkingdestination,with Also nearhere isthe 442 4196; 416 1151,4424241;www.sntc.org.sz; adult/child h NORTHWESTERN SWAZILAND••Ngwenya NORTHWESTERN 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4.30pmSat&Sun) 7am-5pm Mon-Fri, h h 6am-6pm) offers stylish chalets thatare a 8am-5pm)

( % h Ngwenya glassfactory isatruewildernessarea, 627 6714,4424744;www.hawane 8am-4pm) , which features beauti- Ngwenya iron ore mine Ngwenya ironore , datingfrom , eitherat the camping reserve (

End- (per re- 442

Sleeping up fromMbabane. also numerouscraftvendors alongtheroad Crafts .co.sz) Ethnic Bound PeakPiggs where Hotel &Casino, you’ll find at thePeak justnorthof Craft Centre Orion out is knownforitshandicrafts.Checkthese nyane Falls here in1884. named after aprospectorwhofoundgold inthearea.pine plantations Thetownwas industryandthereland’s logging are huge This small,grittytown isthecentre of Swazi- PIGGS PEAK you here. Peak willdrop road(MR1);minibustaxis 35km northwestof Mbabane,alongthePiggs 1178; www.sntc.org.sz) National TrustCommission Centre, EzulwiniValley) Craft .co.sz; Mantenga Swazi Trails children halfprice) wooden also self-catering ‘With so many rights youcan’t gowrong’. ‘With so manyrights first again. Even right its promo-speakis right: Peakthe Piggs Clinicsignand thentake the .com/jabulaguesthouse; s/d US$31/52; Peak; costsaboutUS$8.50. ataxi with thelodge tobepicked upfromPiggs Youcanarrange500m further,ontheright. a waterfall; theturn-off tothelodge is about casino. Continue untilyoucrossabridge over will dropyouhere) isabout1.5kmbefore the and thesignposted (minibustaxis turn-off Peak: headnortheast(towardsthecasino), Thelodge reserve. isabout 14kmfromPiggs ors payUS$4.50/3peradult/child toenter the ditional US$3/1.50peradult/child. Dayvisit- (toaccessthelodge) isanad- to thereserve Meals are available intherestaurant. Entry is oneof inSwaziland. thebestplacestostay enous forest onthePhophonyane River – hideaway –inanature of lushindig- reserve cottage s/dwithbreakfast fromUS$97/135) ( o % the overnight trails(nofacilities).There are site, withablutionsandbraaiarea, oralong The entrancegate forMalolotja isabout As wellasitsscenery,includingthe Jabula GuestHouse 437 1319;www.phophonyane.co.sz; tentsUS$66-94, ,

Likhweti Kraft Likhweti ( % Phophonyane Lodge & Nature Reserve Reserve Lodge&Nature Phophonyane about8kmnorthof town,thisarea 437 1260;www.tintsaba.com) Mp p606; (Map Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com

( , forsixpersons. Bookthrough % 437 3099;ethnicbound@africaonline , bothinEzulwiniValley. %

(

% ( % /fax 4162180;www.swazitrails Mp p606; (Map

437 3127) 437 1052;www.swaziplace cabins s lonelyplanet.com , and This stunning (per personUS$32, Turn right at Turnright

% ) . There are orwiththe 416 1151, Tintsaba Phopho- Book accommodationBook online at lonelyplanet.com The minibus taxi stand isnexttothemar- stand The minibustaxi &Away There Getting rooms inaresidential setting. Peak;The bestB&BinPiggs ithassmall,neat lonelyplanet.com backpackers cottage (perperson US$11). stylish Directors’ cottages, ortheconverted US$20) ( there’s stillaccommodationat if soldsocheckhad justbeen aheadtosee around thevillage. Peak (1863m).Note: asbestosdumpsexist inSwaziland,Emlembe mountain highest former cableway.Stunninghikes include the on apretty hillylandscape,complete withthe andmanyArtDecobuildingsnestle houses ofwarp; thousands corrugated deserted iron dents andnoamenities.It’satrue-life time workers left;todaythere are around100resi- tos mine. Following itsclosure, the10,000 built in1936fortheformerHavelock asbes- tion countrytothehistorictownof Bulembu, scenicplanta- wind yourway20kmthrough An interesting Peak detour fromPiggs isto BULEMBU (Mpumalanga)inSouthAfrica. Barberton furthertowards wet. Theroadcanberough PeakPiggs when toBulembucanbeboggy can handlethemifyoutake itslowly. a2WD reasonably condition,although rough National Park, theroadsare mainlydirtandin one hour). vehiclesseveral dailytoMbabane(US$2, ket atthetopendof themainstreet, with % The stretch of dirtroadrunningwestfrom If you’re headingeasttowardsHlaneRoyal At thetimeof research, theentire village Piggs Peak (US$4.50, 2½hours). Mbuluzi) fromManzini (US$2.50,onehour).There’s alsoatleastoneminibus taxidailyto/from getaminibustaxifromSimunye tothecamp(US$1.50,onehour). via publictransport, (Map (Map p606 ; ( For amore culturalandruralexperienceawayfromthecrowds,headto WORTH THETRIP US$3.50/5.50/5.50; must be booked inadvance).You canorganiseUS$3.50/5.50/5.50; mustbebooked avisitthrough ablutions andself-catering facilities. Localmealscanalsobearranged(breakfast/lunch/dinner walks (guidedperpersonUS$1.50). Youcancamporstayinbasicrondavels, withshared ing views,onoffer are guidedcultural walkstonearbyvillagesplusnature andbird-watching Simunye intheLebombo road(15kmasthecrowflies).As wellas amaz- Mountains,36kmbydirt % 437 3888;[email protected]; r , the former General Manager’s, theformerGeneral residence, Several minibus taxis run daily to Simunye (and further north to the junction forMlawulaand tothe junction north Several minibus taxisrundailytoSimunye(and further 605 1160,6031931;[email protected]; dm/rUS$10/31) % /fax 416 2180; www.swazitrails.co.sz; Mantenga Craft Centre, EzulwiniValley)/fax 4162180;www.swazitrails.co.sz; Craft Mantenga EASTERN SWAZILAND••Siteki EASTERN Bulembu Lodge

per personfrom

US$27/39) no-frills roomsandmeals. northeast isneartheformerroyalhunting gameparks.org; admissionUS$3.50; Park National Royal Hlane HLANE ROYAL NATIONAL PARK Simunye (US$1,30minutes). (US$1.50,onehour)and Siteki withBigBend connect (US$2, onehour).Dailyminibustaxis relics, onaworkingfarmjustoutsideSiteki. US$30/60) 4124; www.geocities.com/mabudafarm; s/dwithbreakfast marry –Siteki meansMarrying Place. king) gave hisfrontiertroopspermissionto Mbandzeni (great-grandfather of thepresent temperatures andabustlingmarket. surrounding lowveld, withwideviews,cooler littleplaceandliesaboveIt’s aniceenough the Manzini theMhlumeni–Gobaborder. through Siteki isthefastest route toMozambiquefrom SITEKI try’s northeast. are themainpopulationcentres inthecoun- Tshaneni, Mhlume,Tambankulu andSimunye ThetownsofHlane, MlawulaandMkhaya. most peoplethinkof as‘Africa’. what epitomises of Mountains theLebombo major sugar-producing area. Thearidfoothills The hot,northeastern cornerof Swazilandisa SWAZILAND EASTERN Minibus taxis fromManziniMinibus taxis runtwice daily recommendedThe highly The townwasoriginallynamedwhen Siteki (Stegi) Hotel (Stegi) Siteki areThis area’s parksandreserves notable , a community-owned camp northeast of , acommunity-ownedcampnortheast hascottages fitted outwithcolonial harksbacktocolonialdays.Itoffers Shewula MountainCamp

( % 343 4126;s/dwithhalfboard ( or,ifyou’re arriving % h 528 3943/4;www.big Mabuda FarmMabuda 6am-6pm) Swazi Trails inthe ( %

611

343 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND US$70) antelope speciesandhyenas,crocodiles boasts Mountains, theLebombo plains meet adult/child E25/12; four people. Bookaccommodationthrough from the turn-off ontheleft. entranceisabout 600m Mlawula; thereserve Mbuluzi River. ing perpersonUS$5) ontheMlawulaRiver.set verandas andwoodenviewing decksandare Somelodges haveNature spacious Reserve. more luxuriousthanatneighbouring Mlawula catering bird speciesrecorded here. Therewildebeests. have over alsobeen 300 zebras,hippos,antelopegiraffes, speciesand E20/10) Reserve The smallandprivately owned RESERVE MBULUZI GAME 1151, 4161178;www.sntc.org.sz) the (camping perpersonE60) (camping perpersonE150) somiasis (bilharzia). bike.mountain of Checkthestatus schisto- fishing rodsforUS$3andbringyourown plus rewarding birdwatching. Youcanhire tranquil This MLAWULA NATURE RESERVE hutswithelectricity. contained tricity, acommunalarea, andarestaurant. ant andrusticfenced-off camp,withnoelec- from US$32/45,8-personcottageperpersonUS$27) (US$0.70; 7kmfromSimunye). Simunye willdropyouattheentrancetoHlane bike rentals to (perhourUS$9).Minibustaxis person US$5.50,minimumfour)andmountain tural village tourwithdanceperformances(per drives (perperson US$18,minimumtwo),acul- (per person US$4.50),two-hourwildlife day reintroduced. There are guidedwalkingtrails ante lope species.Elephantsand lionshave been life watching. There are white rhinosandmany grounds andoffers wonderfullylow-key wild- 612 office Bhubesi Camp The turn-off for Mbuluzi is the same asfor forMbuluzi isthesame The turn-off There’s tented accommodationat Accommodation here, insomelovely self- the Book forboththrough Camp Ndlovu National TrustCommission

(Map (Map p606 ; is self-catering andcanaccommodate is self-catering EASTERN SWAZILAND •• Mlawula Nature Reserve SWAZILAND••MlawulaNature Reserve EASTERN boasts arange of animals,including

( % lodges 383 8861;[email protected];adult/child reserve h (camping perpersonUS$5.50,rondavels/d % (5-/8-person lodgesUS$52/73;

are alsoavailable nearthe (cottage s/dUS$27/54) 6am-6pm) 528 3943/4;www.biggame.co.sz) . , and Mapelepele Cottage Mapelepele

( % Siphiso campingground 416 1151;www.sntc.org.sz; . , where the lowveld

Camp sites Camp Mp p606; (Map Big Game Parks Big Game Mbuluzi Game Mbuluzi Game is apleas- has self- Sara Camp

a (cottage

% (camp- ) , is . 416

.co.sz) Parks office Africa. nearKruger NationalParkreserves inSouth good valuecompared tomanyof the private parkentryandmeals,is walking safaris, by bush. Thepriceincludeswildlife drives, ious stoneandthatch cottages surrounded camp, withaccommodationinrusticallyluxur- is reminiscent of a19th-century hunting foratleastonenight. ideal tostay While daytours canbearranged (E390),it’s specified pick-uptime,usually10amor4pm. drive inalone;you’llbemetatPhuzumoya ata thenyoucan’t booking inadvance,andeven life itsupports. brew andbird butalsofortheinsect beer, ued notonlyforitsfruit,fromwhich Swazis from the namecomes and blackrhinos. Thereserve’s panded toantelopes, elephants,andwhite breed of cattlefromextinction. Itsfocusex- in1979tosaveestablished thepure Nguni road nearthehamletof Phuzumoya, was .biggameparks.org) top-notch This MKHAYA RESERVE GAME is onahill justsouthof town,with pleasant It maypaytobook accommodationahead. route inSouthAfrica. to/fromKwaZulu-Natal River andmakes aconvenientLusutfu stopen on –notsurprisinglyabigbend inthe Picturesque sugartown isa sleepy Big Bend BIG BEND and squash courts). facilities (swimmingpool,golfcourse, tennis visitors are theclub welcomeandcanuse and abar-restaurant. it’saclub, Although cottages single rooms,modernself-catering is afriendlyandtranquilspotwithsmall .com; s/dfromUS$43/49,cottageUS$48/80; short. caught orabedifyou’re Mbuluzi Nature Reserves, Hlane RoyalNationalPark, orMlawulaand possible stocking-up pointforvisitingnearby with littleof interest fortravellers, exceptasa Simunye isamanicured sugar-company town SIMUNYE The Simunye CountryClub Stone Camp without inthereserve You can’tvisitorstay Bookings are the madethrough . Bend InnHotel mkhaya

Mp p606; (Map (all-inclusive s/dwithfullboardUS$143/245)

, offtheManzini–Big Bend private reserve private (orknobthorn)tree –val- (

% %

( % 363 6855;s/d US$26/40; 528 3943/4;www.biggame 313 4792;www.visitswazi lonelyplanet.com (

% 528 3943;www Big Game Big Game as s )

) door, good-valuesmall, comfortable, doubles.Next outdoor bar. ItisOKvalue. views acrosstheriver fromtherestaurant and lonelyplanet.com to US$100, topendUS$100 andabove. are: budget US$40 andbelow,midrange US$40 good midrange B&B optionsavailable. ists andare expensive, butthere are some hotels are geared towardsSouthAfrican tour- and EzulwiniValley. Many of thecountry’s from localpeople. camp inruralareas, but It’susuallypossible(andsafe) to reserves. land exceptinmanyof thenationalparksand There are few designated campsites inSwazi- ACCOMMODATION SWAZILAND DIRECTORY en route in twodifferent huts. two tothree daysexploringthearea andsleep Mankayane–Vlelzizweni road.Youcanspend run 33kmtrailintheNtfungulaHillson the NgwempisiHikingTrail,acommunity- River. Adventure-seekers willbethrilledby beautiful naturalforests andtheNgwempisi few remaining untouched environmentswith of theMalkerns Valley, isoneof thecountry’s The NGWEMPISI GORGE Gorge. Swaziland, especiallyaroundtheNgwempisi off onabike oronfoottodiscover the‘real’ area isquietandrural,it’sagoodplacetoset the north’sdramaticscenery.Whileentire ists don’tgambleonavisit;theythinkitlacks than itssurroundings.Nowadaysmanytour- frequently visited foritsroulette rather tables, southernSwazilandwas to KwaZulu-Natal, In formeryears, of because itseasyaccess SOUTHERN SWAZILAND (US$2.50, onehour). borderpost one hour)andtotheLavumisa food curry. kebabsincluding calamari,seafood andsea- h Lismore Lodge Lismore Prices foraccommodation inthischapter You’ll findhostels inMbabane, Manzini godailytoManziniMinibus taxis (US$2, lunch &dinner) Ngwempisi Gorge LL Restaurant Bar LL Restaurant offers dishes, great seafood SOUTHERNSWAZILAND••NgwempisiGorge

( %

( 363 6613;dfromUS$28) %

( % 625 6004) always 363 6380;mainsUS$5-11; askpermission , 30kmsouth has food before heading toremote areas. tricky. It’s probably besttostock uponbaby a pramanywhere inthecountry wouldbe –negotiating best tobringababy-rucksack national parksare goodto visitwithkids.It’s pools andentertainmentfacilities.Elsewhere, cater toyoungvisitors. Many hotels have especially themore upmarket establishments, in Swaziland.Mostaccommodation options, Travelling withlittle’unsshouldbehassle-free CHILDREN 8.30am to11.00amonSaturday. 2.30pm MondaytoFridayandsomebanks, hoursMonday toFriday.Bank are 8.30amto andshopsareOffices usuallyopen8amto5pm BUSINESS HOURS the kingdom. reintroduction of endangered wildlife into Tedconservationist Reillyandthesuccessful Kessler andMswatiIII,isthestoryof the dangered WildlifetoSwaziland, influence. in thefaceof anoverwhelming European itstraditionalwayof tomaintain lifeseeking is ahistory(toindependence)of thekingdom The Kingdom of Swaziland, BOOKS localadviceonconditions. seek tracks. Make sure youare wellprepared and eral parks,plusthecountlessancientwalking biking. horse ridingandmountain season), some terrific white-water rafting (intherainy Small insize,bigonaction.Swazilandoffers ACTIVITIES All the King’s Animals: TheReturn of En- Hikers canenjoythewalkingtrailsin sev-

PRACTICALITIES Swazilandusesthemetricsystem. The supplyinSwazilandis electricity The The as usedinSouthAfrica. 220V. Plugshave three large roundpins publication. does. much forwhatitdoesn’tsayas lurid tabloid,isafascinatingread as mouthpiece forroyaltyandawould-be Swazi Observer Times (www.times.co.sz), avirtual isadaily by D Hugh Gillis, byDHugh byCristina

613 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND or finesapply. Opendisplays of are affection officially illegal inSwaziland –imprisonment relationshipssexual are and culturallytaboo Africa orsomeother Africancountries.Gay thanSouth Swaziland ismore conservative GAY &LESBIAN TRAVELLERS the Umhlangadance. at theIncwala,butphotographyisallowed at raphy andsoundrecording isnotpermitted theboxed (see September text, p607 ). Photog- dance heldinAugustor the Umhlanga(Reed) latebetween DecemberandearlyJanuary, and ley) are theIncwalaceremony, heldsometime Swazi land (nearLobamba intheEzulwiniVal- have performances. Sun hotels intheEzulwiniValley sometimes The fordetails. the Mbabanetouristoffice Sibhaca dancingcompetitionsare held–ask FESTIVALS &EVENTS USA South Africa Mozambique inSwaziland Embassies &Consulates USA UK theUKrepresentative.contact In countrieswithout Swazirepresentation, Swaziland Embassies&Consulates EMBASSIES &CONSULATES best tobecautious. (controversially, intheformof DDT),butit’s gramme aroundthisarea toeliminate malaria 1990s there wasasturdyeradicationpro- est riskfromNovember toApril.Inthelate northeast nearMozambique;you’llbeathigh- see diseases, p768 .) Malaria isariskinthe to avoid potentially deadly contractingthese and malaria. (Formore informationonhow ofBeware bothschistosomiasis (bilharzia) DANGERS &ANNOYANCES South Africa(see p583 ). Customs regulations are for similartothose CUSTOMS 614 2507, Mbabane) emergency services. hoursfor 12.30pm Mon&Thu)There are extended embassy.gov; 2350MbabanePl, Washington DC20009) Buckingham Gate, LondonSW1E6LB) Gate, Buckingham ( The most important cultural events in culturalevents The mostimportant (Map (Map p604 ; ( % % SWAZILAND DIRECTORY ••Customs SWAZILAND DIRECTORY 020-7630 6611;www.swaziland.org.uk; 20 202-234 5002;1712NewHampshire Ave, NW, (Map (Map p604 ; ( % % 404 3700; Princess Dr,Mbabane) 404 3700;Princess 404 6441;http://mbabane.us % 404 4651; The Mall, POBox 404 4651;TheMall, h 8.30am- many otherSwazisites. facilities. for detailsaboutSwaziland’shotels,restaurants andother Easter Monday Swaziland NationalTrustCommission Swazi.com ofTourism Ministry RESOURCES INTERNET facilities. wini andMalkerns Valleys have internet and Manzini. Acoupleof placesinEzul- Internet facilitiesare scarceoutsideMbabane ACCESS INTERNET Incwala Ceremony Day Boxing Day Christmas Somhlolo Day(Independence) Dance Umhlanga (Reed) SobhuzaII’sBirthday King National FlagDay MswatiIII’sBirthday King Easter New Year’s Day inSwaziland: Public holidaysobserved HOLIDAYS or orientation. generally frowneduponwhatever yourgender data. for years whiletheoffice isdigitising new mapshave these reprintedalthough notbeen Public Works (1:50,000) are available fromthe wepisi andMalolotja. Topographicalmaps Sibebe, Mlilwane,Mantenga, Mahamba, Ng- hiking spotsincludingShewula, Mlawula, ity alsohashikingmapsof mostpopular the reverse. TheSwazilandTourismAuthor- plans forMbabaneandManzini shown on out afree mapof Swaziland,which hascity hands The maintouristinformationoffice MAPS p781. see inSwati, wordsandphrases For someuseful writtenand Englishistheofficial language. languagesThe official are SwatiandEnglish, LANGUAGE heritage. aswellSwaziland’s cultural Mlawula Nature Reserves and .org.sz) HelpfulsitewithinformationaboutMalolotja year) (March/April) Good Friday, HolySaturdayand GoodFriday, (March/April) (www.swazi.com) Slightly chaotic portal to (www.swazi.com)Slightlychaoticportal 26December (

% 25December 1January 404 6267;Mhlambanyatsi Rd,Mbabane) 25April December/January(datesvaryeach (www.mintour.gov.sz) Bestused August/September 19April 22July 6September lonelyplanet.com (www.sntc Ministry of Ministry , reach regions. mountainous the countrycodeandcitycode. accepted everywhere andthere’s noneed are equal totheSouthAfricanrand.Rand emalangeni –E),which isfixed atavalue The unitof currency isthe lilangeni (plural MONEY lonelyplanet.com 9am-1pm Sat) Plaza, Mbabane; p604; main Swaziland’s TOURIST INFORMATION com is US$8.50.Dial The lowestcardvalueisUS$2andthe highest most easilymadeusingMTN phone cards. there are noarea codes. International callsare The international countrycodeis Swaziland hasareasonable telephone network. TELEPHONE days, anduntil11amSaturday. Post officesare openfrom8amto4pmweek- POST villages. aphotooftaking anyone, particularlyintribal that youshould alwaysaskpermissionbefore Incwala ceremony. without saying Itgoes hibited to photographorsoundrecord the ports orgovernment buildings.Itispro- able inMbabane andManzini. Film andphotographicaccessoriesare avail- PHOTOGRAPHY &VIDEO is usual. smarter 5%to10% touristestablishments, parts of Swazilandistoroundupabill.In lers cheques. the receipt of whencashingtravel- purchase and travellers cheques. Mostbanksask tosee and insidetheRoyalSwaziSpa’scasino. inSwaziMall,are Bank atStandard Mbabane credit ordebitcards.Themostconvenient cover of thisbook.) the QuickReference page ontheinsidefront land. (Formore onexchange details rates, see change forothercurrencies outsideSwazi- to change them.Emalangeni are to difficult Mobile-phone services are MTN and Mobile-phone services Only afew ATMs acceptinternational Don’t take photosof soldiers, police,air- The normalpracticefortippinginrural andFirstNedBank Nationalchange cash (www.vodacom.co.za) % 404 2531;www.welcometoswaziland.com; Swazi isinMbabane. Thewebsites of h TRANSPORT IN SWAZILAND •• Getting There & Away INSWAZILAND••Getting TRANSPORT % 9am-4.45pm Mon-Thu, 9am-4pm Fri, tourist information office tourist 00 forinternational, then . These donotgenerally . These % 268; Voda- (Map (Map lankulo (US$21toUS$197)inMozambique. toMaputoa week (US$21toUS$63)andVi- (US$63 toUS$175)inSouthAfrica, and twice express.com) Johannesburg (onewayUS$127). Manzini. Swazilandand Itfliesdailybetween operates out of Matsapha airport,northof Swaziland Airlink Air recently inayellow-fever been area. ation certificates are required unlessyouhave and entryisusuallyhassle-free. Novaccin- passport isrequired forentering Swaziland in fromJohannesburg andMozambique. A it’salsopossibletofly South Africa,although Most travellers enter Swazilandoverland from Swaziland Entering and fromothercontinents,see p752 .) land fromelsewhere ontheAfricancontinent bique. (Forinformationonreaching Swazi- and itsneighbours, SouthAfricaandMozam- coversThis section travel Swaziland between THERE&AWAY GETTING SWAZILAND IN TRANSPORT are intheMinistry of HomeAffairs. ficer residence permitfromthe than 60daysyoumustapplyforatemporary for anextension forlonger of Ifstaying stay. formoreone staying than30daysmustapply charge atborderpostsandtheairport.Any- themfree whodocanobtain ofland. Those tovisitSwazi- avisa Most peopledon’tneed VISAS information. Centre, EzulwiniValley)Craft p606; formation. Theprivately run Parks Swazi NationalTrust Swazi Express Airways Swazi Express airport. airport. taxislevied at Matsapha A US$7departure TAX DEPARTURE

( % % (www.biggame.co.sz) /fax 4162180;www.swazitrails.co.sz; Mantenga 404 2941;POBox372,Mbabane) flies four times a week to Durban fliesfourtimesaweek

( %

(www.sntc.org.sz) 518 6155;www.saairlink.co.za) offer parksin- useful

also suppliestourist ( % Chief ImmigrationOf- 518 6840;www.swazi Swazi Trails and whose offices whose Big Game Big Game (Map (Map 615

SWAZILAND SWAZILAND SWAZILAND and waiver, or such asagearbox, animport you’llalsoneed licence. Ifcarryinganyexpensive spare parts, tration papers, liability insuranceandyour motor thevehicle’scycle you’ll need regis- If you’re arrivinginSwaziland viacaror &Motorcycle Car own bicycleintoSwaziland. There are norestrictions onbringingyour Bicycle also See p299 . continuing ontoManzini (US$2,3½hours). border crossing(US$5,1½hours) withsome the morningforNamaacha–Lomahasha departMaputohours). Minibuses dailyin can catch aminibustoMaputo (US$4,3½ to Manzini (see above ), fromwhere you Bus An excellentalternative istotake the andNamaacha.and Maputo viaBigBend Durban three between timesweekly buses Panthera Azul To/From Maputo 8pm) Mozambique: Swaziland shares twobordercrossingswith MOZAMBIQUE morning. leave taxis Most long-distance earlyinthe tochangeyou’ll need attheborder. minibuses hours).ban (US$17,eight Formanyroutes, four hours) Manzini andbetween andDur- (Park MbabaneandManzini Station), (US$15, alternate days. returningweek, direct toJo’burg/Pretoria on ban viaMbabaneandManzini three timesa .bazbus.com) The Oshoek–Ngwenya Mahamba Josefsdal–Bulembu Golela–Lavumisa Houtkop–Sicunusa crossings, includingthefollowing: There are 11SouthAfrica–Swazilandborder SOUTH AFRICA Crossings Border To/From Durban&Johannesburg 616 Minibus taxis run daily between Jo’burg rundailybetween Minibus taxis

intheextreme northeastof thecountry, ( Goba–Mhlumeni % Baz Bus TRANSPORT IN SWAZILAND •• Getting Around INSWAZILAND••Getting TRANSPORT in South Africa 021-4392323;www.bazbus.com) in SouthAfrica ( runsfromJo’burg/Pretoria toDur- h carnet depassage endouane

( ( 7am-10pm) % % Lomahasha–Namaacha ( ( h ( in South Africa 021-4392323;www in SouthAfrica in South Africa 27113377438) in SouthAfrica h ( h h ( 7am-10pm) h 7am-10pm) 8am-6pm) 8am-4pm) 7am-6pm) .

( h . Border 7am- has Baz

at Matsapha airport. FUEL &SPARE PARTS iscompulsory. driving license A domestic(withphotoID)orinternational DRIVING LICENCE & Motorcycle Car the larger towns. Peakone hour)andPiggs (US$2,onehour). Manzini (US$1, (US$1,35minutes), BigBend stop often. Samplefares includeMbabaneto areThese plentiful,runalmosteverywhere and necessary. leavebuses whenfull;noreservations the mainstopincentre of Mbabane. Mini- mostofbuses, which departandterminate at There are afew infrequent (butcheap) domestic Taxi Bus &Minibus als andtrails. Wildlife Sanctuaryoffer mountain-bike rent- Both HlaneRoyalNationalPark andMlilwane meanders. Minorroadsare often unsealed. elled EzulwiniValley are notidealforleisurely Themaintownsandheavilytainous. trav- Swaziland isgreat forcycling,ifalittlemoun- Bicycle AROUND GETTING repair shops. posts generally don’thave or petrolstations mended. to orloss of yourvehicle recom- ishighly Insurance forthird-party damage anddamage INSURANCE years oldtohire cars frommostcompanies. can offer competitive rates. You have tobe23 % ( payableon entry. US$1 roadtax rental companytoenter Swaziland.There’s a that youhave thewritten agreement fromthe have hired yourcarinSouthAfrica,ensure the countryinacoupleof days.Note: if you Hiring acarwillallowyoutocover much of HIRE and Mbabane. ciation (AA)agents inManzini, Peak Piggs Africa (see p593 ). There are AutomobileAsso- the priceof petrolissimilartothatof South Many are petrolstations open24hours, and % There are alsononshared insomeof taxis Car hireCar inSwazilandisavailable from 404 9136;[email protected]; SwaziPlaza, Mbabane) 518 6226) and Imperial Affordable Car Hire Car Affordable

( % 518 4862/393) lonelyplanet.com

(Map p604 ; p604 (Map , both Avis

through thebush.Theroadnorthwestofthrough the MR3.There are backroads somerough ways. Themainonefromeasttowestis roadsandhigh- Swaziland hasgoodsealed ROAD CONDITIONS&ROAD HAZARDS lonelyplanet.com the above - ‘Do the right thing withourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditionsonoursite foralongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfairtoaskyou useitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake areas. on theopenroadand60km/hinbuilt-up limitis80km/h cades orroadstops.Thespeed Always pullover andstopforofficial motor- beltsiscompulsory. hand side. Wearingseat In Swaziland,vehicles are driven ontheleft- ROAD RULES road, plustheoddkamikazeminibusdriver. main dangers are peopleandanimalsonthe conditionswhenwet.Theother and boggy is gravel formostof slippery theway.Beware Hlane RoyalNationalPark Peak andPiggs TRANSPORT IN SWAZILAND •• Getting Around INSWAZILAND••Getting TRANSPORT day inSwaziland. SouthAfricantourincludinga a seven-day South Africa) POBox697,Wilgeheuwel,1735Gauteng, .bundusafaris.co.za; tours andhiking. try, includingwhite-water rafting,cultural tours aroundthecoun- in one-dayorhalf-day Centre, EzulwiniValley).co.sz; Craft Mantenga Trails Swazi Tours competition fromlocals. time foracaronbackroads,andthere’s keen for women.Hitchhikers waitalong might but hitching aloneisfoolhardy,especially Hitching iseasierhere thaninSouthAfrica Hitching Bundu Bus isaSouthAfricanoperatorthatruns (Map (Map p606 ;

( % in South Africa 011-6750767;www in SouthAfrica % /fax 4162180;www.swazitrails © LonelyPlanetPublications specialises specialises

617 SWAZILAND SWAZILAND