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Evia & the Sporades Εύβοια & Οι Σποράδες

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© Lonely Planet 643 Evia & the Sporades Εύβοια & Οι Σποράδες Evia and the four islands known as the Sporades remain largely off the beaten path, but attract more Greeks than most and consequently retain a good deal of local colour. Evia is joined to the mainland by a short drawbridge at Halkida, which spans a narrow gulf. Only two hours from Athens, both Halkida and nearby Eretria are destinations for car loads of weekend visitors. Across the island, though, the pace slows as the landscape stretches out, dotted by hilltop monasteries, small farms and vineyards. Goats stand in the middle of the road and stare at passing cars. Small beaches await on the north, west and southeast coasts, many of them with crystal-clear bays that elsewhere would be lined with matching umbrellas. The Sporades (in Greek, ‘scattered ones’) seem like an extension of the forested Pelion Peninsula. In fact, in prehistoric times they were joined. Skiathos, a haven for northern Europeans, claims the sandiest beaches in the Aegean, along with several prime scuba-diving spots. Low-key Skopelos kicks back with a relaxed and postcard-worthy harbour and a good number of pristine bays, and forest meadows threaded with walking trails. Alonnisos, the most remote of the group, anchors the National Marine Park of Alonnisos – established to protect the Mediterranean monk seal – and is a model for ecological awareness throughout Greece. Skyros, the southernmost of the chain, retains a good deal of local character, and is well known for its unique cuisine, woodworking and ceramics, folk traditions that date from Byzantine times when these islands were home to rogues and pirates – something that the good-natured residents are proud to mention. HIGHLIGHTS Spa Bathing Soaking in the therapeutic thermal waters at Loutra Edipsou (p647 ), on Evia Dinner on the Dock Picking out your favourite from the fresh catch at Kalamakia ( p663 ), on Alonnisos National Marine Park of Alonnisos Aegean Adventure Watching for dolphins Kalamakia while cruising around Greece’s only national Kastro marine park at Alonnisos ( p661 ) Tsougriaki Island Walks Hiking through olive groves and Atsitsa across pristine meadows on Skopelos (p659 ) Loutra Edipsou Romantic Meditation Catching the sunset over wine from Atsitsa Bay ( p669 ), on Skyros EVIA & THE SPORADES EVIA & THE SPORADES Midnight Music Listening to one of Greece’s best bouzouki players above the kastro overlooking Skopelos Town ( p658 ) Scuba Diving Exploring an underwater reef 30m down off Tsougriaki islet, Skiathos ( p654 ), on Skopelos POPULATION: 228,750 AREA: 4167 SQ KM 644 EVIA •• Getting There & Away lonelyplanet.com 0 20 km EVIA & THE SPORADES 0 12 miles To Thessaloniki (85km) THESSALY Psathoura To Larisa (55km) Gioura Volos Piperi Kyra Panagia Alonnisos (p660) Pagasitikos Pelion Skiathos (p650) Gulf Peninsula Peristera A E G E A N Skiathos Town Patitiri SPORADES S E A Platanias Skopelos E75 Loutraki Town Dio Adelphi Cape (Glossa Port) Artemisio Skopelos Skantzoura Kamatadika (p656) Skyros (p665) Pefki Artemisio Vasilika Glyfa Oreï Istiea Kotsikia Skyros Agiokambos Town Angeli Edipsos Linaria Lihada Loutra Edipsou Agia Anna Strofylia Skyropoula Rovies Agios Camping Konstantinos Limni Pilio Arkitsa To Lamia Prokopi Paralia (46km) Hiliadou Gulf of Mt Dirfys Kymi Evia (1743m) Paralia Kymis Politika Steni Platana STEREA Katheni Ohthonia ELLADA Psahna Nea Artaki E75 Evia Avlonari Halkida Neohori Milos Kalamos Livadia Camping Aliveri Lepoura Eretria Agia Apostoli To Delphi Lefkandi Amarynthos Krieza (51km) Bay Lake Dhistos Thiva Skala Porto Zarakes Oropou Gulf of Boufalo (Thebes) Evia Nea Agia Marina Styra Cape Kafireas Styra (Cavo D'Oro) Kallianos Gulf of Dimosari Gorge Mt Ohi Alkyonides (1398m) Corinth Gulf ATTICA Lenosei Petalia Epanohori Gulf Marmari Myli Elefsina Potami (Eleusis) Rafina Karystos Platanistos To the Megara E94 Peloponnese Petali Karystos (20km) ATHENS Bay an event whose full explanation has eluded EVIA ΕΥΒΟΙΑ observers since Aristotle. Evia (eh-vih-ah), Greece’s second-largest island after Crete and a prime holiday des- Getting There & Away tination for Greeks, remains less charted by There are regular bus services between foreign tourists. Its attractions include glori- Halkida and Athens (€6.20, 1¼ hours, half- ous mountain roads, challenging treks, major hourly), Ioannina (€35.50, one daily) and archaeological finds and mostly uncrowded Thessaloniki (€36, 6 hours, twice daily). beaches. A mountainous spine runs north– There is also a regular train service between south, dividing the island’s precipitous eastern Halkida and Athens (normal, €5, 1½/one cliffs from the gentler and resort-friendly west hour, hourly/four daily), and between coast. Ferries link the island to the mainland, Halkida and Thessaloniki (normal/IC express along with a short sliding drawbridge over €26/33, 5½/4½ hours, six/four daily). There the narrow Evripos Channel to the capital of are regular ferry services from Evia to Skyros, Halkida. The current in the narrow channel Alonnisos and Skopelos; for details see Island reverses direction about seven times daily, Hopping ( p750 ). EVIA & THE SPORADES EVIA & THE SPORADES .
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