Spring 2006 Vol. 33 No. I Quarterly Journal of the Wilderness Canoe Association

The Icy portage

100 DAYS FROM THE ROCKIES TO THE ARCTIC OCEAN Authors: Pat Maher, Phil Mullins and Anthony Berken Photos: Phil Mullins, Anthony Berkers and Margo Millette

Overview ation, tourism, education anc:l/orsocio-cultural perspectives The Paddling the Big Sky expedition began as many expe- on physical education. The breadth of our experience was ditions do, from the banter, stories, daydreams and past trips equally varied; some of us had grown up canoeing and/or of a group of friends. Our 2,800-kilometre journey departed worked with international environmental education and in early May from Hinton, Alberta in the foothills of the adventure programs, whereas others were experiencing their Rocky Mountains and crossed prairie and boreal forest into first-ever extended canoe trip. The bridge in this diversity the barren lands. Seven people completed the 100-day trip was an overarching interest in the past, present, and future that also encompassed a university outdoor education pro- role of outdoor recreation and education as a mode of per- gram at the University of Alberta. The expedition ended in sonal, social, and environmental learning. This theme guided Kugluktuk, Nunavut in mid-August, where winter had the approach to planning and executing the journey. Our arrived on the shores of the Coronation Gulf. purpose was to explore and challenge how skills learned We were a varied group of athletes, guides, and teachers, through outdoor activities engage people in meaningful re- our educational backgrounds ranged from a first undergrad- lationships with their environment, and promote ecological uate degree to doctoral studies in the fields of outdoor recre- and social responsibility. After he leaves, an instructor will have to paddle a solo boat over the wide, slow sections of the Athabasca River, the prospect of which we are not too keen.

May 30th, 2005 Wow, it's already been three weeks on the Athabasca River and so much has happened. We're now getting a bit of a late start after a wonderful evening of camaraderie with some of the "commu- nity" along the river (Zelman's lodge at Grand Rapids). So many great people are sharing with us their lives, their food, and their stories of the river. For a trip that many students probably ex- pected to be a wilderness, it sure has a lot of human presence. In fact, we've felt a very strong sense of community Pat cleaning fresh moose meat May 31st, 2005 The expedition really began during Point Lake, the headwaters of the We're now on the Grand Rapid portage the winter of 2003 and daydreams Coppermine River. This Canadian and it is very hot! During a month in about the expedition gave way to long Heritage River led us to Kugluktuk which we expected cold to be our great- hours of planning and preparation. where the river's fresh water mixes with est adversary, we have had over a week Food was dried, equipment procured, the salty Arctic Ocean. The full route of cloudless days and scorching heat. sponsorship arranged, and courses can be seen in the following map We discuss with Darlene Zelman our planned. For the first leg of the journey, (adapted from http://atlas.gc.ca). mutual amazement at how much water twelve students and three instructors As with all travel logs there are the Athabasca River carries and how paddled the Athabasca River to Fort countless stories waiting to be told. not a drop of it can be used to quench McMurray, Alberta. The students re- This is just a smattering. our thirst. The water is high in silt and turned home from there and three oth- thus difficult to filter and siphon and its ers met our trio for the second leg of May 9th, 2005 quality is also suspect, given the num- twenty-one days. Motivated by the Another extended expedition begins! ber of towns and amount of industry short northern summer, concerns over Our group consists of twelve students along the banks. Overall, this produces August weather, and a strong desire to and three instructors including a guest a difficulty in finding enough small complete the third leg around Great for the next three days, the Dean of the tributaries to keep the group hydrated. Slave Lake and reach the ocean, we al- Faculty of Physical Education and We've taken a rest day, camping in a tered the plan. From the original Recreation at the University of Alberta. large clearing at the top of the Grand Athabasca River/Lake Athabasca/Slave A unique part of this trip though are Rapid portage, completing some teach- River to Great Slave Lake route, we the students who are taking Spring ing requirements and also portaging, at found ourselves bumping along by Outdoor Camp during the first month our leisure, some lighter loads. truck from Fort Resolution to of our travel. After a four-hour drive Yellowknife. Here we replenished our from Edmonton to Hinton, we cross the June 3rd, 2005 food stocks and adjusted the team Athabasca River on a forestry bridge Well, we have a bit of a surprise today! membership in preparation for the final and drop down next to the river. Taking We paddled through a number of big- fourth, longest, and most difficult leg of 30 minutes to sort out gear, tie on water rapids where a few student boats the journey Beginning this fifty-day leg, throw bags, and make sure paddles and took on water. Folks were, in general, we left the docks of Yellowknife and PFDs fit, we say goodbye to our drivers hollering with delight. This white-water traveled slowly north against the cur- and hit the water. The students are environment is a welcome change from rent of the Yellowknife River, over the somewhat green but very enthusiastic. our weeks on a big, slow, muddy river. Canadian Shield, and into the Barren I think that it should be a great month We ran Boiler Rapids on river left, then Lands of the Arctic tundra. We lake- providing the water levels co-operate to the right, and back left. Rated as C-3, hopped and portaged heavy loads for and how nice it is to have the Dean it was probably C-2 at this high water nearly four weeks and finally crossed along because of his administrative in- level. We were also able to run Middle the height of land into Starvation Lake volvement in getting the program run- Rapids, rated C-4, on the left side for and down the Starvation River into ning. Also, he evens out our numbers. the first bit and then via a long ferry to

2 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 river right. Long Rapids was also rated laxation. Yesterday,we started at the site Yesterday we were tracked down by an- C-4 in the Canoe Alberta Reach Report, of an old store on the Athabasca River other expedition: a solo paddler from but again was probably C-2 when we and continued through the Fletcher Poland paddling from jasper, Alberta to ran it river right all the way down. After Channel and Embarrass River into the Tuktoyaktuk, North West Territories. a swamp on the rapid we ate lunch and beautiful low-lying Peace-Athabasca He had heard about us (as the larger everyone enjoyed the sunshine. Then delta. Once we reached Lake Athabasca, group with students) throughout his we continued on to Crooked Rapids, the delta seemed to spread out in all di- journey. He seems like a nice guy and is which is formed by a sharp right-hand rections and apart from the mass of keen to chat and paddle with us, at bend in the river combined with ledges Canadian Shield behind the lights of least through to the large rapids on the extending from the right (inside of the Fort Chip, the sky and land seemed to Slave River where we'll need to hire a bend). Running the rapid far left, we hit go on forever in all directions. From the shuttle and can split costs. a number of big waves. Centre-left map, we knew it was about a seven- probably would have been ideal, but kilometre crossing to Fort Chip and so June 18th, 2005 would have been difficult given the stu- given the calm winds and time (10:30 Yesterday,after another day wind bound dents' level of experience. The surprise p.m.) we felt it was a safe bet to head in Fort Chip we were able to depart. The of the day came at Rock Rapids where straight across. Getting to the beach at Riviere des Rochers and Revillon Coupe we could hear the water pouring over a just after 11:30 p.m. was a relief. The took us through to the Peace River which ledge, but could see nothing. A lime- weather had remained relatively calm about nine kilometers later became the stone ledge like many on this stretch, but feelings had existed amongst the Slave River (proper). Yesterday we forms this rapid, extending the width of group as to the decision to cross. In the camped at the confluence of these two the river with a narrow tongue in the end, today is very windy and it was re- after a monotonous day of big river travel centre. With instructors in the lead, we ally quite fortuitous that we did cross. with few campsites to be found. Tonight hit the tongue and held on for the ride. Also, there were no campsites at the we are camped at La Butte (river right) All the students made the deepwater delta prior to the crossing despite what on the Slave River, a very nice rocky vee and broke through the curling we had been led to believe. point and also near the site where plains wave. Despite this, due to a few stressed In Fort Chip we've taken the manda- buffalo were re-introduced to Wood minds and spirits we called it a day at tory trip to get fresh and junk food BuffaloNational Park. Excellent camping the next island. from the Northern Store and have exists up on the cliff overlooking the On the heels of Crooked Rapids is begun to see the sites. The town seems point with a view well worth the jaunt Rock Rapids, rated C-3 and we concur. really friendly and we've managed to through the woods. It's Marcin's (Polish In high flow we couldn't see the ledge. get a lot of good information about the journalist/adventurer) birthday today and The tongue is tight, but shouldn't be upcoming route from both locals and so we made dinner and chocolate cake too much trouble for a more experi- the Parks Canada office. I'm not sure if for him supplemented with some moose enced group. Though we didn't have we'll be heading out tomorrow - wind meat that we had been given earlier in the opportunity, scouting might be pos- doesn't look promising - but at least it's the day by a family at one of the cabins sible on river right. a very nice place to stay a while. along the Slave River.

June 6th, 2005 One phase of the expedition is over and another is about to begin! Arriving in Fort McMurray, it's time for the stu- dents to head back to Edmonton. Under the highway bridge in the midst of town we met up with Ron and Rob who provided transportation for the program on behalf of Western Outdoor Works. We sorted gear and waited for the other three group members to ar- rive. A short stay in Fort McMurray should be a good chance to revitalise, get everyone on the same page, and also close up/debrief a great month of teaching.

June 15th, 2005 After about ten days and yesterday'S marathon day, we've now arrived in Fort Chipewyan for a day of rest and re- Amazing evening! Caught up in the migration of the Bathurst caribou herd

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 3 June 21st, 2005 citing news to tell but the group seems on the hillside. After checking it out Today is the summer solstice and to have a new enthusiasm and getting with the binoculars, we were super ex- National Aboriginal Day in Fort Smith, back on the water tomorrow will be a cited, as it was our first sighting of cari- NWT. Yesterday at 9:30 a.m., after a welcome but difficult change. We are bou. "Hey wait a minute," someone re- 20-km paddle to Fitzgerald, Alberta, we facing upwards of a month of upstream marked while looking through the met Clayton Burke who ran our shut- travel. binoculars, "There's a whole line of cari- tle. We crossed the 60th parallel in the bou on the ridge ...oh my gosh The back of Clayton's pickup truck on a July 11th, 2005 whole hill is covered!" We had come dusty road leading around the Cassette, We didn't expect to see this sight on the upon the migration of the Bathurst cari- Mountain, Pelican, and Rapids of the river. As we rounded a point in the bou herd. QUickly, we landed and ran Drowned. We camped at the Fort Smith Yellowknife River, we knew that we up the shore to get a better look. A few boat launch, just downstream of a large would come upon the start of the Icy hundred caribou grazed a ways off to white pelican colony Today has been a Portage. But the Icy Portage we came our right and so we figured we could wonderful opportunity to get to know upon was very much icy. While we'll safely portage up to the ridge without the community of Fort Smith. Although rest here for the next day, it'll be a bit of disturbing them. After unloading the many of the shops and services are work to get up and over the deep boats, we took the first load up to the closed, that's fine because we've been freeze. However it's nice to have some height of land and realized how many able to share dried caribou meat, learn cool clean ice in the powdered milk, thousands of caribou surrounded us. about sculpting and watch some truly and a bit of the rocks to go with our We were captivated with amazement as entertaining axe throwing and burlap limited supply of scotch. we alternated between taking pictures sack races. Intermittent thundershow- and shuttling gear to a depot l.S-km ers made today a bit of fun for those of July 19th, 2005 along the 2.S-km portage. Given the us camped by the river and serving at Again wind stifles our progress. We hour, we decided to make camp on the the community BBQ. tried to wait it out over the better part ridge, at times no further than Sm from of the day but it kept up and we were hoards of curious caribou who streamed June 27th, 2005 forced to spend a second night on by, a truly amazing experience. We With the abrupt news over the past few Dissention Lake with many hours of basked in a gorgeous pink sunset while days that our group will be changing reading, writing, and drinking hot tea listening to the clicking of caribou as one member in Yellowknife and that but enjoyed a good break in our daily they passed. Although we had hoped to crossing the east arm of Great Slave routine for a meeting to discuss Phil's make it through the entire portage in Lake would no longer be an option due research. one go, this sight was just too fantastic to wind and ice, we have arrived in Fort to pass up. After shuttling a number of Resolution ready to sort out the up- July 24th, 2005 loads over the entire portage, by dusk at coming logistical challenges. At dusk Since leaving Greenstocking Lake two midnight we were well set to finish with last night following an amazing sunset days ago, we've jumped from lake to ease in the morning. of moon rising over trees like a neon lake, shot down some small streams sign or ball of flame, we paddled from through overhanging bushes on creeks July 30th, 2005 the mouth of the Slave River to the just wide enough for our 17-foot ca- We took a celebratory group photo this town of Fort Resolution. noes and completed a number of 400- morning when we made it to Starvation Fort Resolution appears to be a won- 600-m portages along sandy, open es- Lake as we are finally now heading derful town with a vibrant history We kers. Upon entering Winter Lake, we downstream on the Starvation River have camped down by the beach and encountered a large bull moose. This into Point Lake and on to the this morning said goodbye to Marcin. I fascinating experience was made more Coppermine River. Our month of head- wonder how he'll cope solo after so so by Anthony who seemed to be able ing upstream is over. After some gor- many days with us. He's off to the town to call it closer and closer. Camped on geous sunshine crossing Starvation of Hay River and then down the one of the islands in the middle of Lake, we came to the first large set of Mackenzie River. I hope the weather Winter Lake, we could see that the rapids (a waterfall) which we portaged holds for him. Winter River enters with an impressive (300-m) on river right. We ran the next drop that cuts a wide swath through the swifts (C- 1) and although they were a June 28th - July 2nd, 2005 tundra. More than likely we will bit rocky at least the walking was good. After four days sightseeing in portage around it. The section that followed was shallow Yellowknife, we've re-stocked our food, and rocky but not too difficult. revitalized our bodies and minds, and July 29th, 2005 Eventually we ended up at a series of have a new group member. The fresh Last night we camped on the portage steep ledges that we portaged on river food in Yellowknife was a wonderful between Big Lake and Starvation Lake right. About halfway through the treat as was the ability to contact and were treated to an amazing sight. As portage we made camp with a lovely friends and loved ones in the outside we paddled to where we planned to view of the Starvation River winding to- world. We did not have too much ex- portage, Pat noticed something moving wards Point Lake.

4 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 Finally over the height of land and on to Starvation Lake (L to R: Anthony Berkers, Haley Elzen, Pat Maher, Phil Mullins, Sean Ryan, Margo Millette)

July 31st, 2005 right to left; the second set is series of water really pushes through it, espe- Continuing down Starvation River we nasty ledges which we lined on river cially at the high water level we've en- ran a number of swifts and camped at a right before getting in the lee of two countered all summer. This is definitely marked site between the second and small islands and running the end. a dangerous rapid, as we would note third set of rapids. We portaged the Between these two sets are a number of during scouting from the trail on river third set and a possible fourth along swifts. The third set of rapids consisted right. The water slams into the canyon river right. The total length of the of a very large standing wave with a walls in a number of places and a me- portage is about one kilometre. From ledge running out from river left. We morial plaque along the portage trail re- here, the river winds for the next seven ran these along the eddy line on river members previous paddlers who lost kilometers or so before the next marked right. The final set of the day was a there lives in this rapid. The current is rapid which requires a combination of two-km boulder garden that we scouted very nice and swift through this section running, lining, and lifting. We en- from the canoes. Today was relatively and at the end of the day we camped on countered two more marked sets before sunny and we met the first other trav- river left near the September and Point Lake, the first a boulder garden elers that we had seen in quite some Coppermine Mountains, deciding to- that we lined, and the second a chute time. A group from YMCA Camp morrow would be a rest day straight into the lake. This final set we Pinecrest in Ontario were taking a rest lined for the first 3/4 and then ran the day just after the first set of rapids. August 12th, 2005 last section. Tonight we're camped on a small island We finally have a rest day After 30+ Arriving at Point Lake at 9:30 p.m., (shoal) on "Lake 341" (1:250,000 topo days of continual travel the "sleep in" is we camped right after the final rapid on map 86G). great. Anthony and I hike up the ter- an excellent point of rock with lots of raced slopes of the Coppermine flat ground for tents. Because it has August 11th, 2005 Mountains to stretch our legs (great been overcast all day, with occasional Yesterday we rounded the "Big Bend" of views and a cloudy day). Winter is cer- drizzle, it's starting to feels like fall or the Coppermine River and the current tainly coming. Stumbling upon a sandy winter. has picked up as did a nasty headwind. outcrop, I notice a half-eaten (and still Today we hit the big water of Rocky bloody) caribou leg. Closer inspection August 5th, 2005 Defile rapid. A series of big waves and of the area reveals a series of abandoned Now we're on the Coppermine River holes occur all along the left shore but wolf dens. As I am peering into yet an- proper after passing through Point are avoidable by sticking to river right, other dark nook, something (a sound, Lake, Red Rock Lake, and Rocknest once you turn the initial corner. Rocky or movement, or presence?) causes me Lake. We ran the first set of rapids from Defile is a steep-walled canyon and the to turn. Holy shit! A wolf not 20-meters

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 5 marked but unnamed rapids that we again boat scouted. The best route was generally from inside bend to inside bend. We camped prior to reaching Escape Rapids because of the cold overcast weather and the fact that we didn't want to run anything in the growing darkness or while we were tired. One rapid of note between Sandstone Rapid and our campsite was a sharp bend with some large waves to navigate; at higher water it may be wise to scout this rapid from shore. At this particular bend we also encountered a herd of about 12 muskox - not the opportune photographic moment but really cool just to see them (males, females, young ones). Today we also saw two white wolves, and at Sandstone Rapid, a cari- bou ferry across the river with ease. This whole section of the river is quite beautiful in terms of the scenery and cliffs. A lot of birds of prey fly about and signs of their nesting are all along the cliffs. A number of waterfalls crash down from the barrens above the cliffs and, as the trees become sparse, we really get that sense of openness again.

August 16th, 2005 We're done. We've made it to Kugluktuk! Yesterday we continued to Escape Rapids, which have some very large waves. As you approach, a large waterfall draining into the Coppermine River (river right) can be seen. When you see it straight ahead, it's time to get The big water on Rocky Defile of the Coppermine River out and scout from river left. The Coppennine takes a large, sharp, left away! Stark and white, it is looking rapids and swifts, we hit Muskox bend at Escape Rapids and has a good none to pleased as it starts to jump up Rapids. We ran the top bit through the view of the rapid from the top of the and down on the spot (making itself centre and then eddied out on river left cliffs on river left. We scouted and then look bigger?) while barking and yelp- to scout the next section. The second ran the rapid as follows: river right to ing (it really does sound like a dog). I section centre was negotiated left along begin with (avoiding the large waves on try to remind (convince) myself that the eddy line, missing a number of river left) and then cut across to river healthy wolves don't hurt humans and holes on river left and big waves on left through the wave train to avoid the curse the name of a certain Northern river right. At higher water this proba- hole and large waves below the water- author for all those stories of playing bly wouldn't be possible because of the fall. After this, a series of boat-scoutable with wolf pups as their parents kindly size of the waves, but you can portage rapids and swifts continue basically to looked on. With a pounding heart and around the holes on a small point and Bloody Falls. Between Escape Rapids the occasional beating of big sticks, continue from there. Next we scouted and Bloody Falls, the surrounding val- waving of arms and yelling, I am slowly Sandstone Rapids from river right and ley opens up and the scenery becomes escorted off the property and make my ran right of centre, then cut to river left quite vast. Once everything seems to way back to camp two kilometres away. for the last third. Between Muskox and narrow again, you've come to Bloody Sandstone rapids are a number of swifts Falls. It's a bit of a search for the August 14th, 2005 which were easily boat scouted. After portage trail on river left, but basically This morning, after a series of small Sandstone Rapids are a number of at the end of a beach you start to see

6 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 the falls. From upstream it's not easy to cle: Haley Elzen, Margo Millette, Alissa week after this expedition finished. find the trail, but once you find it, Overend and Sean Ryan. Margo's trip Phil Mullins is currently pursuing there's a boardwalk, picnic tables, and log is where much of the precise detail doctoral studies at the University of obvious ATV tracks coming from the for the article comes from. As well, Alberta where he teaches outdoor and other direction as you're now in Kugluk thank you to the students involved in environmental education for the (Bloody Falls) Territorial Park. So, once the first month of courses. Faculty of Physical Education and you've made your first trip across the Financially and logistically, the ex- Recreation. His research interests cen- portage, it's a very obvious route. pedition was sponsored by a number of tre on the ability of outdoor program- At Kugluk (Bloody Falls) Territorial companies and organisations: a grant ming to foster and maintain people's Park, four of us spend our last night on from the Expedition Committee of the connection to particular environments the river, while the other two continued Royal Canadian Geographical Society, and places. This work builds on his on to Kugluktuk. This split is difficult, grants from the Mountain Equipment Master's degree from the U of A, his in- but in the end the two who left felt they Co-op Expedition and Environment ternational work with environmental needed to get to town and rest a num- Funds, Ostrom Outdoors, Totem Out- field studies and programming, and his ber of nagging physical injuries, which fitters, K & K Foodliner, Souptacular, undergraduate studies from Lakehead perhaps have created the accompanying The Cheese Factory, Western Outdoor University in geography, philosophy, psychological pull to finish the trip. Works, Shecode, and Alta-Comm and outdoor recreation. The skies have cleared at Bloody Falls Wireless. Over the last 10 years, Anthony and the four of us have a wonderful Berkers has worked as a mountain and time chatting with fishermen, receiving Bios kayak guide in Bolivia, a summer camp a gift of grayling, eating a wonderful Pat Maher is currently an Assistant counselor in Alberta, an Outward meal, and generally relaxing. Today, we Profess or in the Resource Recreation Bound instructor in BC, and a youth paddle the final l o-km to Kugluktuk at and Tourism Program at the University and community leader in Costa Rica. a leisurely pace, enjoying the sunshine of Northern British Columbia. Prior to He holds a degree in Outdoor Pursuits and each other's company. Coming to this he studied and taught at institutions as well as in Psychology. He is currently the end of the journey is both a shock in New Zealand and Canada and was an enjoying a certain sense of geographic and a joy. We round the point where instructor at the Canadian Outward stability and teaches Outdoor and the Coppermine River meets Coro- Bound Wilderness School. Pat's enjoy- Physical Education at Dawson College nation Gulf and that is it. There is ing settling down in the wilds of and the College International des Kugluktuk, the end of our journey. Northern BC where he "landed" one Marcellines in Montreal, QC.

August 20th, 2005 After a few days meeting the teachers, students, families, and other visitors to Kugluktuk, we begin to part our ways. With most of us having booked flights Scale I (chelle 200 0 200 400 600 south on Aeroplan points, we leave km km whenever seats are available over the course of four days. While adjusting to life in town we take part in many won- derful experiences: giving presentations leg 1: University program. The Athabasca River to Kugluktuk elementary school classes Hinton, AB . Fort McMurray, AB 29 days + 2 transition days explaining why we aren't any good with a shot gun or a fishing rod (to the laughs of the kids); we help teachers leg 2: Athabasca and Slave Rivers unload their groceries that had been Fort McMurray, AD· Fort Resolution, NWT barged in; we load up our boats to be 16 days barged out to Hay River; we go out to the sea ice with joe Allen Evyagotailak, the Kugluktumit MLA. Kugluktuk has leg 3: The drive around Great Slave lake a wonderful friendly atmosphere to go Fort Resolution, NWT· Yellowknife, NWT 3 transition days along with its beautiful view - an excel- •.•.... --UA-Fort lent place to end a stunning expedition. McMurray leg 4: Yellowknife and Coppermine Rivers Yellowknife, NWT . Kugluktuk, NU Hinton Acknowledgements 50 days Acknowledgement must be made to the other expedition members who did not take part in the authorship of this arti-

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 7 THE MOISIE Authors: Barb and Dave Young Photos: Bruce Bellaire and Barb Young

Rim Canyon - time to wade

Introduction advanced intermediate paddlers. We are 2003 so we referred to it as the SARSgroup The Moisie River begins near Labrador also advanced intermediate in age (aver- description. We paddled SwiftDumoine ca- City, drops off the Labrador Plateau and age age 55) and Barb has damaged knee noes with spray covers. Other equipment 420 kilometres downstream, enters the St. ligaments requiring her to wear a knee included a satellite phone and GPS. We Lawrence River east of Sept-Isles, Quebec. brace. As it turned out, the trip was just used the GPS frequently to pinpoint our lo- Though the Moisie can be accessed via as difficult as we had thought. We cations and campsites. the Pekans River or by floatplane, we planned on 16 days to complete the trip, For the most part the campsites were chose the more popular rail option. The which turned out to be the bare mini- disappointing and difficult to find. On the Quebec North Shore and Labrador rail- mum. While three or four added days train we heard reports that it was a good way (QSN&:L) runs from Sept-Isles to would have been helpful, nevertheless we year for bugs but even so the black flies Labrador City. Canoeists wishing to ac- enjoyed our adventure on the Nahanni of were bothersome, especially on the cess the Moisie depart the train at Lac De the East. portages. We were also prepared for lots Mille and head south through a chain of We used maps developed by Raymond of rain and cold weather. Here we were lakes to access the Moisie at Rim Canyon. Boyer of Sept Isles although we also took pleasantly surprised. Even though we had We had put off doing the Moisie River along topographical maps for the initial part rain most days it was usually intermittent. until this year, having lacked confidence of the trip on the lakes. We also referred to a We only had two days when we were in our ability for this challenge. We (Barb detailed trip description we found on the chilled from wet and cold. and Dave, Bruce and Beth) have been Internet at Canadian Canoe Routes Water levels were very low but paddling together for many years and are (www.myccr.com).This was written in seemed to match the description of the

8 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 SARSgroup. This created some difficulty Trestle Rapids, which didn't look too dif- Aug 5th (km 425 - km 403-22 km) at the beginning of the trip where we had ficult from our elevated position. Our Rising at 6 a.m. we ate a quick breakfast to drag our canoes on Lac Menistouc and route then followed the Nipissis River, of coffee and granola and packed up in wade through several rapids at the begin- which appeared dry, and we sympathised the rain. After a long paddle in a light and ning of the Maisie. Other groups had with the WCA group who were dropped wet headwind, we came to the dam near similar experiences at those points in the off on its bank. the height of land on Lac De Mille. We trip, thus water levels may not make a At Ross Bay Junction, the train di- pulled the canoes over the dam and then difference. vides, some cars going to Labrador City paddled into the narrow arm at the end The scenery on the Maisie River is and some to Schefferville. The train agent of the lake, looking for but not seeing the quite spectacular but we were often too had warned us to make sure that our ca- portage indicated on the map. A narrow tired to appreciate it. The long stretches noes were transferred to the Labrador channel separated Lac De Mille from Lac of whitewater were very enjoyable with City train. Amid a lot of confusion, a Menistouc. After some wading and lining, lots of C-3s. Trestle Rapids on the last day group of Americans who were supposed we found that the channel opened up were the most difficult for us. Though to be on the car ahead for Schefferville into the wide, shallow end of Lac listed as C-3, this section was very volu- were on our car and almost went to Menistouc. Barb and Dave got stuck in minous and more difficult then any of the Labrador City with us. As well, our ca- the shallow water and had to wade up to previous C-3s. noes almost went to Schefferville with their knees in deep sucking mud. We them. After a long delay, we were finally stopped for lunch on a mucky sandbar The following is a day-by-day account of on our way to Labrador City with our ca- before dragging and walking the canoes the trip. noes and gear safely in tow. We asked for through a long stretch of very shallow a drop-off at Opocopa (mile 23) but water. Keep to the left on this piece of the Thursday, Aug 4th should have asked for mile 19, which lake to avoid getting totally stuck. Having arrived at Sept-Isles after a two- would have saved an hour's paddle the Following this, the sun came out and day road trip from Cobourg, we were up next morning. the wind picked up from the west. At 4 at 6: 15 a.m. for a take-out breakfast at Arriving at mile 23 around 6:15 p.rn. p.m. we stopped at a point about midway Tim Hortons and then the train station. we set up our tents on a gravelly spot be- down the lake on the west side. Bruce We met another WCA group from side the train tracks. The road behind has checked the GPS, locating a campsite di- Whitby who was doing a shorter trip on lots of train and car/truck traffic as it runs rectly across from us on the east side of the Maisie via the Nipissis River. We all the way from Baie Comeau to Goose the lake. We paddled across with a big tail checked in, following two other canoe Bay/Happy Valley Around 3 a.m. some wind and waves coming up behind us. groups. heavy wind and rain began, which flipped The campsite was great with lots of beach The train initially traveled along the our canoe over but luckily not onto the and we set up the tents before it started Maisie River and we were able to see train tracks. raining again. We enjoyed some beer in

Class V rapid ahead

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 9 temperature dropped. We were elated to find the wind had finally changed direc- tions. Following a breakfast of porridge and fresh blueberries we packed up and then made a sail and lashed the boats to- gether. The wind was not really strong so we sailed and paddled on and off. We stopped at a very pretty spot for lunch and discovered a cabin called the Three Island cabin. After lunch the wind seemed to be stronger. We paddled against it for a bit to get closer to the west shore since the waves were picking up and we had not installed the spray covers. We arrived at the campsite we had picked out around 2:30 p.m. and had a swim and beer and then chicken and dumplings for supper. This was one of the few nights that we had enough energy to stay up for a fire and stargazing.

Aug 9th (km 349 to km 325-24 km) We were packed and off around 8 a.m. after a breakfast of granola. As we pad- Barb & Dave running an R-III dled around the point just past our camp- site we again hit a head wind! Arriving at the dining tent while waiting for the around 7:30 a.rn. after a breakfast of gra- the official beginning of the Moisie, we storm to pass and supped on chili before nola and fresh raspberries, which were stopped for a ceremony, asking for safe retiring at 9 p.rn. growing on bushes around the cabin. The guidance and sacrificing an orange and river between Lac Menistouc and Lac some whisky We had meant to bring Aug 6th (km 403 - km 389-14 km) Opocopa is about 13 kilometres long. The sweet grass but had forgotten it. Each of The crashing waves, wind and rain sun was out and the southwest wind cre- us also took a swig of whisky, which caused a lot of noise overnight and con- ated some difficult paddling. After about seemed like the proper close to the cere- tinued into the morning. We waited an hour, we ran a shallow C-l and a set mony around a bit to see if the wind would die of three rapids just before the lake. The As we entered Lac Felix the wind be- down but finally left around 9:30 a.m. A first was a C-3, which we scouted from came very strong again. We paddled into strong wind from the west made the pad- the left and then ran on the right. The C- it for about one kilometre and then dling very difficult but we were able to 2 and C-l were straightforward. turned right, paddling to a campsite make headway We stopped for lunch be- The wind increased in intensity as we hind some rocks to get out of the wind, entered Lac Opocopa and we stopped to which was increasing in intensity The lunch on a beach to the left while waiting wind was so strong that we had to track for the wind to lessen. About three hours along the shore for the last two kilome- later, the wind had subsided enough for tres to the end of the lake. We set up us to paddle across the lake to the west camp beside a run-down, debris-littered shore. Still fighting the wind, we passed cabin with time for washing, organizing by a narrows, a third of the way along the and a game of bridge before a supper of lake, the shallow, reedy water attracting a soup and grilled cheese. The wind finally lot of terns. We stopped after another four stopped and loons serenaded us. After we kilometres around 6:30 p.m, exhausted got into our tents we heard a loud thump- and ravenous, at a large open campsite on ing, gnawing sound, which we decided the west side of the lake. After quickly must have been a porcupine somewhere setting up our tents and making supper in the old cabin. we were hit by another storm.

Aug 7th (km 389 - km 368-21 km) Aug 8th (km 368 - km 349-19 km) We had a good night's sleep and woke to Rain, thunder and lightning continued the loons at 5 a.m. getting underway overnight and then towards morning the Chicken and dumplings - yummy!

10 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 Fire ahead - Aug 75th

marked on the map. There were fresh could be seen from the top of the trail. equal pieces. Bruce started with a pack bear and moose tracks on the beach. We We portaged to a small campsite close and the GPS and stopped after the first finished the last of the beer with our to the end of the trailjust above the water, piece. The bog proved troublesome on cheese and crackers appetizer, followed finishing about 6 p.m. The site was very this stretch and some loud cursing was by a spaghetti supper with chocolate for buggy but with a beautiful view of the heard as a canoe was dropped. He dessert. turbulent river below. We quickly set up measured the second pieces and was the tents and then had grilled cheese and very excited when he finished at the Aug 10th (km 325 - km 318-7 km) soup for dinner. (We were eating sand- river. We were very pleased not to have We had no visits from bears overnight wiches early in the trip in order to finish to do a third. Next, we arrived at Five that we were aware of. Phew! We the rye bread before it got stale.) We were Finger Falls and started looking for the packed up after a pancake breakfast and glad to get into bed after a very difficult, dried up box canyon the SARS group were off by 8 a.m. After an hour, with hot and sweaty day. used. spray covers on, we started into the first The description of how to get around C-2 on the south channel of Rim Aug 11th (km 318 - km 295-23 km) this falls was a little sketchy. After quite a Canyon, finding it pretty dry. We took The night was cold and for the first bit of exploring, we paddled to an eddy two hours to wade the canoes through time we zipped up the door on the tent. just above the falls. As it was getting dark the C-2 and C-3 to the portage on river After a breakfast of porridge, we packed and we were all tired, we surveyed the top left. After exploring all of the portage and were off by 8 a.m. Over the next 20 of the island on our left as a possible possibilities, we carried everything kilometres we ran a number of C-l/C- campsite. Finding sufficient space to about 500 metres, then lined and waded 3 rapids. At one C-4, we lined the first camp we stopped, put up the dining tent through a C-3/C-4. At this point the drop and then paddled the next big and had a quick dinner. Everyone was re- north and south channels meet and we drop and ran the rest on the right. We lieved to be camped after a long day. It were finally able to paddle. A 1,200-m had a short portage on the left around didn't look like the site had been used be- section of C-2/C-3 rapids took us to the an 5-5 (ledge) and then ran a C-3 be- fore and we found ourselves slipping as next portage on river left. This portage fore we reached the portage at 1:00 the lichen/moss gave way under foot on was more difficult with a long gradual p.m. The SAR5 group's description had the uneven terrain. For a last minute, climb and then a steep downhill at the estimated the portage to be 1,500 me- makeshift campsite it was quite comfort- end. Beautiful views of the falls below tres, so we decided to do it in three able and very beautiful.

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 11 Aug 12th (km 295 - km 282-13 km) Aug 14th (km 244 - km 227-17 km) out and scouted the last piece before the Sleeping in until 6 a.m. we awoke to We had a great sleep followed by a pan- C-4. We front-ferried to reach a tongue face a cold clear morning, requiring a cake breakfast, taking some time to dry on the left and then paddled to an eddy jump-start of two cups of coffee. We out clothes before starting out at 9:30. We on the right. The portage on the right was were able to portage the packs and ca- had a tail wind and strong current, mak- a hard carry over large boulders to a small noes to the river below the falls by car- ing 10 kilometres per hour at times. This eddy. After paddling into a headwind for rying them down the slope of the island section of the river was narrow with lots most of the afternoon we arrived at our where we had camped. We congratu- of rock faces and falls. We ran two C-3s: predetermined campsite near the lated ourselves on finding what must be the first was easy with big waves, the sec- Caopacho River. Unfortunately, the Camp the easiest way to get around these falls ond required scouting before following Kandalore group that had left the journal below which the Pekans River cascades the tongue down the left side. Stopping at note in the cabin was camped at the site. to join the Moisie. the C-5 to lunch on the rocks and enjoy The next site was supposed to be two Across from the Pekans we stopped to the sunshine, we then took the portage kilometres downriver on the left. We portage around a C-5. The campsite here on river left to the campsite midway couldn't find it so we ended up camping was very pretty and sandy with some along the trail. Barb slipped in some bog on a beach site. We had a quick supper of large trees. The portage on river left was on the second trip and her knee gave way Kraft Dinner and got the tents set up. Just not long (about 400-m) but very difficult causing her to fall. She had forgotten to as we got into bed a huge thunderstorm with lots of bog. A very large porcupine put on her brace. hit with lots of lightning. The day had was sited along the trail. For the next 10 At 2 p.m. we stopped at a beautiful site been exhausting due to the strong head- kilometres, we negotiated many C-3s, C- and set up the tents amid black flies and wind. 4s, and ledges. Some could be run, some bees before a short rain. We had time for lined, and others required short carries. drinks, appetizers, bridge and a spaghetti Aug 17th (km 170 - km 139-31 km) It was challenging, exciting, but exhaust- supper followed by sunset gazing over the We had an early departure at 8 a.m. since ing work. We ran the last C-3 centre and water. The night was cold followed by we knew the Fish Ladder portage was then left followed by a long C-2/C-1 run- lots of dew. going to be difficult and would take a lot out on river left. We portaged 400-m up- of time. We paddled hard into a light hill to the large sandy campsite, arriving Aug 15th (km 227 - km 209-18 km) headwind and reached the portage around 7 p.m. and setting up the dining We awoke to a misty morning that around noon. A light rain turned heavy as tent. Grilled cheese sandwiches made cleared to blue sky and sun for the rest of we began the portage. The first part of the their last appearance tonight. Darkness the day. Another day of navigating around portage was a steep carry over broken tree and the need for rest chased us into the difficult C-4s and falls followed, inter- branches. We hauled all the gear up over tents. spersed with a 500-metre portage. About this first piece to a level bank and then all half an hour after passing the Taoti River carried a pack up the initial steep part of Aug 13th (km 282 - km 244-38 km) we stopped for a snack and noticed a for- the trail. This wasn't too bad for footing - We awoke to rain, which remained fairly est fire ahead along the river. We soaked hard ground with tree roots and trees to constant for the day: By the time we got some towels in case we had to canoe hang onto but very strenuous. Then Dave going it was around 10:30 a.m. Again we through heavy smoke and as we paddled and Bruce carried the canoes to the top in fought the wind, paddling through C- past the forest fire, saw flames but the one carry - yahoo! After all the gear was 1/C-2s and some flat water until we ar- smoke was billowing upwards and didn't at the top we started the next piece. This rived at a falls, where we portaged on bother us. We stopped for the night at a was much longer with one very steep, river right. Most was over smooth rock, beautiful cabin (Camp de chasse de down-section, and another section over which was very slippery: We stopped for Ludovic) enjoying a lovely evening in its rocks and logs with difficult footing. As lunch at the completion of the portage, luxurious comforts. We had drinks, ap- we were doing this next section, the before sliding the canoes down the flat petizers and chicken and dumplings for Kandalore camp group joined us. Where slope of rock into the water. We negoti- supper. We read an undated journal note we had broken up our carry into three ated a few more rapids followed by a long from a Camp Kandalore group and no- pieces with three trips each, they did two flat stretch. ticed a canoe and paddle in the rafters. carries from beginning to end (blame it Around 6 p.m. just before another The special paddle had been presented to on their youth). At the end there was a thundershower hit, we came across a the cabin owner from Camp Kandalore, cabin, outhouse, and sink with spring hunt cabin and were very pleased to es- who had used his cabin on numerous and cups for drinking. We filled up our cape the elements in comfort. We dried trips. water container at the spring while get- out and took our time over drinks and ting advice from the camp guides on how appetizers before a fried rice dinner. The Aug 16th (km 209 - km 170-39 km) to run the rapid just below the Fish drinks were a bit strong for some people. The morning started out looking grey and Ladder. The rapid (7 rating) looked dan- In the evening, we enjoyed a beautiful rainy. We could still see smoke from the gerous with big volume and a large trian- sunset and moon, later discovering a note fire. After about 10 kilometres we came to gular rock in the middle. The advice was written by the SARS group in the cabin a long C-3/C-4 rapid. We started down to run it by crossing the tongue from journal. the C-3 by scouting from eddies, then got right to left aiming for the eddy on the left

12 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 side. The adrenaline had our hearts pounding but w~ made it without inci- dent. Following the first rapid were two more C-3s and a C-2. These went by in a blur after the excitement of the first rapid. We passed a fishing lodge on the left and then found the campsite on the right, while being lashed by wind and rain from a micro burst of weather. We quickly changed into dry clothes before setting up the tents. This campsite was not very at- tractive due to lots of garbage at the back of if. We had a very poor sleep since a porcupine could not be dissuaded from eating our pots.

Aug 18th (km 139 - km 83-58 km) Bruce was up early and had a look at the culprit. Besides chewing on the rim of our cook pots, it destroyed a leather handle on a pack and also put holes in the mesh Everyone's hands took a beating on this trip - especially our thumbs! of the dining tent. Note: roll up mesh of dining tent before going to bed. We got the day would be longer than predicted) we were expecting a C-2. We didn't expe- an early start after a porridge breakfast. and were off at 8:30 a.m. after a pancake rience a lot of problems but the rapid was Paddling was great, beginning with six breakfast. We paddled hard for two hours certainly bigger than a C-2 and some bail- kilometres of rapids and strong current. to reach the first rapid, which was sup- ing was required. The C-3 was a favourite - long and re- posed to be a C-l at a narrowing of the We presumed that we had run the first quiring lots of split-second decisions. river. The C-l didn't materialize and we C-3 (our description indicated the first Following the C-3 the weather changed paddled on to the first C-3. We stopped two C-3s were identical) so Dave and and rain began falling. We saw a helicop- on the left to scout. This is where we had Barb decided to run the second rapid ter take off from the beautiful Ouapetec initially planned to camp before deciding without scouting. Though still upright, it Fish Camp. The river had widened here to make yesterday a short day. We ran the had been tricky. Bruce and Beth followed and looked more like a lake. The sun C-3, which was a big tongue of huge the same route and flipped over. They came out and with a tail wind and strong waves and no obstacles. We were amazed safely rescued themselves on the right current we had completed 58 kilometres and exhilarated as the canoes rode up and shore while Barb and Dave bailed their by 4 p.m. We camped at a nice beach site over an eight-foot wave. Some concern canoe and watched from the left side. with time for a little Frisbee toss and a was expressed at this point since one trip Then they ferried over to Bruce and Beth wash in the eddy. After a spaghetti dinner, description did not mention large waves through the strong current and saw but we enjoyed a porcupine-free night's rest. here but did so for the following rapids. were not able to pick up Bruce's paddle. The next C-5 required a portage over the Dave scouted the next rapid while Bruce Aug 19th (km 83 - km 53-30 km) rocks on the left. The launch from an bailed the canoe. We had lunch, some of We paddled from around 9:30 a.m. until eddy was a bit dicey as we entered the which was soggy. It had turned cloudy 4 p.m. The day was beautiful and the main current with lots of froth and power. and looked like it might rain. Dave paddling easy. There was only one short Some trip descriptions name the next thought we could run the next rapid - a but steep portage around a C-5. We rapids as Trestle Rapids for the railway C-3 - so Barb and Dave went first. The camped on a rock/gravel site just past the trestle bridge here. The map shows a waves were huge, similar to the last C-3 Nipissis River fish camp. The last canis- C-2, C-3, C-3, C-4, C-3 and C-3 in quick but this time they weren't as lucky and ter of propane lost a lot of gas in the succession. Jumbles of large angular rocks flipped as their canoe turned sideways. morning when it was disconnected so at water level make walking difficult. It This was the scariest dump that Barb and Bruce made great chicken and dumplings appears that the rocks are left from the Dave had ever experienced. Dave popped on the campfire. We heard the train, building of the train tracks. This unusual out of the canoe immediately but Barb which was close by. People had time to arrangement of rocks creates some very took some time to extricate herself. Both read and relax a bit except for Bruce who difficult rapids with huge waves criss- choked as the waves filled their mouths was cooking. crossing and no clear tongue to follow. with water, However, Dave focused and The first rapid we came to after the C-5 managed to instruct Barb to grab her pad- Aug 20th (km 53 - km 13-40 km) was a huge C-3 (rather than the C-2 de- dle while he took over the canoe and his We intentionally started early Gust in case scribed). We didn't scout this rapid since paddle. They were in the main current

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 13 the right to scout and decided to line the be finished Trestle Rapids! It was around N first piece. The lining went pretty well al- 6:00 p.m. at that point.

to Schefferville though everyone was a bit nervous. After The last eight kilometres seemed to (starting point) about 80 meters oflining we were able to take forever as the Moisie slowed to a 20km L. De.:;.M~ill~...... , ,- paddle the rest of the rapid staying close crawl and the wind and rain battered our to the right shore. Next we paddled under faces. Finally, with darkness imminent we the rail bridge into a small eddy on the arrived at the take-out. The last piece of right between the boulders and the shore. excitement was a hair-raising taxi ride on From here we were able to scout the last slippery pavement back to the train sta- drop. The C-3 looked difficult with lots tion to pick up the van. On our return we of big water and obstacles. We found and packed the van in the cold rain and drove paddled a channel on the right staying to Sept-Isles with the heater blasting. The out of the main stream and found Bruce's Moisie had allowed us to pass safely, but paddle in the last C-2. We were elated to not without incident.

I like the smell of it, the look of it, the heft of it. Firewood. It was a tree that once was alive and growing and vibrant and now is dead.

SI. Lawrence River Even in death though the tree is full of dignity. It is returning to the earth yet it is still providing a measure of comfort to all who come into contact with it on its return journey. and moving quickly towards the next While there is sadness in all death strangely there is something rapid. They tried to swim to the right more akin to contentment and peace here. It's as if the tree knows shore but couldn't get there. Then they that it has fulfilled in full measure its purpose in life. The wood from decided to try for the left shore, which the tree has provided us with light, warmth and safety. It has dried turned out to have an eddy. As Barb got our clothes, cooked our food, and shared our company. It is a friend into the eddy she started making progress towards the shore. Dave was below her who has sat with us in the dark and listened to us and understood our and looked in danger. Barb yelled at him deepest thoughts. No wonder the tree feelsso contented returning to to let go of the canoe since he looked like the earth. What more service could it provide to us here? he was going to be carried into the next Taking in the aroma of the piece of wood that I am holding before rapid. He decided to hold onto the canoe consigning it to the campfire. It's almost like perfume to me. Fragrant since he could see a power line overhead and could tell that he wasn't moving and sharp. Newly split always is. Thinking that even if we weren't here downstream. He finally made it to shore. to speed up the process, the tree's round trip of birth growth death They were both badly shaken thinking and decomposition would still take place. It's final decomposition would they had been in a very dangerous situa- be a little slower than the campfire to ash process of the wilderness tion. The spare paddle, Dave's hat, bailer canoeist, but the way time is measured in the wilderness, not that and sponge were gone. While Barb and Dave got their canoe and gear back in much slower. order, Bruce and Beth lined the rapid. When our remains are consigned to the earth will we feel as con- Our confidence shaken, we scouted tented as the tree? That we have fulfilled our purpose in life? That we the next rapid, judging it runnable. Bruce have brought joy and beauty to all who knew us? That we have and Beth went first planning on staying to the right. They missed their line and warmed another? That we have provided light in their wilderness? nearly dumped. Dave and Barb followed I hope that my round trip can stand this kind ofjudgment. I'm try- and went further right and made it okay ing my best to measure up. but had to lean downstream as the canoe turned sideways. Greg Went We paddled to the top of the next rapid before the rail bridge, stopped on

14 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 PORTRAIT LAKE PASS Author: Iva Kinclova Photos: Hugh Westheuser

Lining up the Ross River

The following is the account of our ing to sift through ideas on equip- canoe. I wonder if you would be inter- journey from the Yukon over a moun- ment. ested in doing something like this?" he tain pass into the source of the South "I came across an article in a 1977 enquired. "My sister is making a trip to Nahanni River in Northwest Territories. edition of Canadian Geographic that area and could drop us off on And here is how we dragged, portaged, (Feb/March) about gaining access to Canol Road. We could meet others in lined and sometimes paddled our the South Nahanni River by land," our group at the Moose Ponds. I will canoe, all that willing and voluntarily ... Hugh said. "It's written by a couple send you the article and you can have a (john &. Mary-Lou Roder) who scouted look at it." Late November 2004 a number of possible routes into the I cannot quite recollect my exact My phone rang. It was my friend Nahanni after the South Nahanni thoughts at that moment. What I do Hugh Westheuser calling about one National Park was established. The best recollect is my physical reaction. I felt of the many details regarding an up- route they found was down a portion of suddenly so excited! The "dormant pi- coming self-organized trip to the the South MacMillan River from Canol oneer" in me woke up. This idea pre- South Nahanni River. The prepara- Road in the Yukon. Then they lined up sented a potential challenge that I was tions were shaping up well under his several creeks to Willow Lake. From looking for. It promised a pioneering leadership. We had 11 crew members there they portaged south easterly into type of experience - finding our way in lined up - some were members of the Ross River Valley,lined upstream to wild country, bushwhacking, going WCA and some were friends of the Continental Divide and carried through mountains with everything Hugh's from British Columbia. Our their gear to the Moose Ponds on the needed to support us, working very preparation duties were divided, air- South Nahanni River. It took them hard physically and using all our ca- planes pre-booked and we were start- about a week to do it with a Grumman noeing, camping and survival skills.

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 15 risks was finally going to turn into an actual trip. It was a beautiful sunny day with fluffy summer clouds in the sky and an awesome view of the Itsy Mountains in the east. But these were not the rounded hills I recalled from pictures of Nahanni trips that friends showed me. These were sharp, steep mountains covered with glaciers and ice. During the last hour on the road, I was quietly think- ing to myself: "Do I really want to do this? How the heck does one carry a canoe over this stuff?" When we reached our destination on the second bridge of the South McMillan River, my attention was im- mediately drawn to the river. We were supposed to paddle downstream for about 13km. This was merely a creek Moving the canoe up the hill with a pUlly system about 7-metres-wide, rushing noisily down a visibly sloping hill. There were The next day I headed to the Robarts details, such as a air charter contracts, no eddies in Sight. The terrain along the Library at the University of Toronto to food schedule, canoe rentals, detailed creek was dropping off so fast that I had check the topographic maps of the area lists of equipment and destination of this eerie feeling that something terri- on the Yukon and Northwest Territories barrels and packs (our equipment was bly wrong was going to happen. I could border. In the evening I reported to going to three destinations: Canol not resolve in my mind why there were Hugh over the phone: "I am not sure Road, Moose Ponds and Island Lakes) no rapids marked on the map in the where Willow Lake is, but it looks to were in place and delegated to specific next two-kilometre section. Fears were me like there is a way through Portrait crew members. rolling through my head. Will we be Lake. The vertical rise is only 200m be- able to eddy-out when we need to? The tween the South McMillan River and Late June, 2005 creek is really quite narrow; what if Portrait Lake, on a 30km route as the Hugh, his sister and I departed from there are some sudden obstacles in the crow flies." Hugh's home in Kelowna, BC two way, like sweepers in the water? How "Did you get the article in the mail?" weeks ahead of the rest of our group. It will I communicate with Hugh? I had Hugh asked. took us five days to drive into the never paddled with him before. "No, not yet," I responded. "But Yukon, which included a detour to Fort I suddenly felt I wasn't ready to go after looking at the topo maps, I am Simpson to drop off food barrels for the and needed to work through my fears. game to do this, for sure." planes (to take them in with the other Logically, there was no reason for them. When the article came, I was not members of our group). Both of us had a lot of canoeing expe- much wiser as to the route because "To each their own" was the message rience. I knew Hugh from two long arc- names like Witham Lake, Peter Creek, received as we left civilization in Ross tic canoe trips and trusted him as a per- Willow Lake used in the article did not River, Yukon. While buying gas, the son and as a canoeist. On a spiritual appear on the topo maps. But from the store owner, who was a local game level, I thought that the fears were ap- travel times and descriptions of locations guide, informed us that his pack horses propriate. I believe they allowed me to in the article we eventually established had refused to go through the bush stop, think and focus my energies into that Portrait Lake on the topo was in fact along Witham Creek because of the what was coming. They allowed me to Willow Lake in the article. Our route has density of the willows. In addition, his still myself and start to listen to the sur- been confirmed and the "Portrait Lake description of Canol Road scared rounding environment, particularly the Pass" expedition was born. Hugh's sister so badly that she em- river, with all my senses and all the Next, we contemplated how this barked on the last leg of the trip very pores of my body. It took me a day to would affect the rest of the group. What reluctantly. focus myself and as I call it, to get "a if we injured ourselves on Portrait Lake Six hours later, Hugh's four-wheel green light" from my river gods. Pass or couldn't make it as planned? truck was still in one piece and we were Thankfully, my partner understood. We consulted the other members of the near the end of Canol Road. All the group and obtained their consent. talking and planning, dehydrating, Day 1 Hugh and I made sure that all departure packing, thinking through potential Just over one kilometre downstream,

16 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 the river narrows and rushes through a end of the rope. The ground was loose two kilometres downstream of Canol rock field in a wide right-hand bend. and it was hard to get good footing. We Road although the day surely filled the We started lining this part and shortly slipped and slid, progressing slowly adventure quota. after managed to swamp the canoe. The using all our strength. bank was not easily accessible because When I was attaching the pulleys to Day 2 of overhanging willows and to get the the last tree at the top of the hill, I In the morning the South MacMillan now tipsy, water-filled canoe out of a heard Hugh yell. "Watch the axe!" I took us through peaceful meanders strong current was a challenging task. ducked and heard a thump. As I was re- with swift current and gorgeous While I steadied the canoe and held it covering from a shock, I realized that mountain scenery all around. We were roped to a tree, Hugh bailed the water the last tree I chose for the pulleys was weaving through the midst of a wide, out standing waist-deep in the cold, fast the same tree Hugh chose to place an green mountain valley. In the next sec- current. This "exercise" stressed me old axe we had found while first scout- tion were a series of six marked rapids, enough to refuse further lining at this ing the rapids. He hung it on this tree all runnable, mostly without scouting. point. so we could easily see it when we car- The river was getting progressively Our previous scou ting showed us a ried the packs to the top of the hill. It easier with more room to manoeuvre possible portage route around this narrowly missed my head, thank good- and more routes through the rapids to bend. There was a nice moose path on ness! paddle. top of the hill which led along the river. In a few more minutes the canoe was When the rapids ended we atten- However, to get to it, we had to haul on a plateau and we collapsed ex- tively watched for Witham Creek, a the canoe up a 45-degree slope on a 40- hausted. tributary from the left. It was easy to metre high bank. We rigged a three- We rested a bit and then completed find. Its swift, clear water sparkling in pulley system using carabineers and the portage. When we got in the boat it the warm afternoon sun as it entered canoe ropes and pulled the canoe from was late afternoon and we unanimously the browner water of the South one tree to another tree higher up. voted for camping on the first sandbar MacMillan. After paddling and lining it Hugh pushed the canoe from under- that appeared in Sight. A review of a for about two kilometres, we came to a neath and I threw all my weight on the map showed that we had barely covered spot where the creek became much

Peter Creek with ttsy Mountains in the background

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 17 Ross River just below the Continental Divide

steeper and the swift current changed twenties paid us a visit. They were the for those who happened to be carrying into rapids. We took out in an obvious guides of a group of 14 from Camp "Brute" - the canoe. At noon we de- opening in the willows which was Wanapitei in Ontario and the owners of cided to cross to the south shore of made even more apparent by pieces of the Westjet tag. They ranged in ages Witham Creek where the land seemed garbage left there. A fresh Westjet tag from 16 to 23 years and were doing a more open. We had only about one suggested that a group had landed here 52-day canoe trip headed to the Natla kilometre to cover before that night's not too long ago. What a disappoint- River, NT. My disappointment in en- destination. We really looked forward ment! We are not the only ones on this countering strangers and their garbage to an early finish but it was not meant route. We waited out a shower and and flagging tape in a remote wilder- to be. A kilometre turned into three as started a four kilometre portage along ness started to melt in light of their we had to find our way around a marsh the creek to Witham Lake. We made grand plan. Out trip sounded like a and through a very rough area covered good progress as a forest fire had come piece of cake in comparison to theirs. with big boulders and uneven terrain. through this area last summer and thinned the willow growth. The land Day 3 Day 4 was almost bare with only the odd wil- We continued with our two carries on Our camp at Witham Lake was on a low or tree remaining. We followed a the moose trail along the river, taking high bank. It provided a good view of moose path on top of a ridge above the lighter packs first because naviga- the whole lake as well as the slopes Witham Creek. As we progressed, tion with them was easier. The canoe above us as they were cleared by fire. In pieces of old and new flagging tape kept travelled in the second round together the morning, while I was packing the appearing. "Following a marked route with the heaviest pack. At first the path kitchen and Hugh the tent, I realized is not my idea of a discovery trip," I was open and dry but as the day pro- that we were being watched. A grey thought grumpily. gressed it got wetter, less pronounced wolf stood 15 metres away from us and That evening while we were cooking and covered with deep layers of moss. was looking intently at us. He or she dinner, two young women in their early This was hard on the knees, especially seemed curious as if trying to figure out

18 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 what we were. Hugh and I spoke qui- with a canoe nearly impossible. We beautiful, serene mountains covered etly and took some pictures while the walked either on the boulders on the with snowfields. The sun kept us warm wolf stood there. Then the animal made banks or right in the water. Some boul- and in high spirits. a few steps towards me. I held my ders were unstable and some slippery, Finally Peter Lake! By 2 p.m. we had breath and started playing scenarios in so we dragged the canoe uphill instead made it to the end of the staircase: the my head about what might happen if he of portaging it. This was perhaps the one and a half kilometre uphill stretch keeps coming. But after two steps for- hardest work we had to do on our trip. on Peter Creek was behind us. We ward he turned around and took off The creek kept rising and I had plenty "rested" on Peter Lake while flat-water running along the shore. of time to contemplate the meaning of paddling and soon enough we were My memories of the rest of the day three contour lines (or 60 vertical me- moving up against a swift, meandering are vague. I was mesmerised by the tres) while doing our two carries. When creek, first paddling and then lining on wolf's eyes. Those 30 seconds of look- you hike, climbing 60 vertical metres sandbars and on grassy shores. These ing directly into them transferred me just gets you warmed up, but carrying three kilometres up an unnamed creek into a different dimension of awareness an SO-pound canoe over slippery, wob- contained only one contour line, but (raw, wild, unfamiliar and exciting). It bly boulders changes the picture dra- the current was again relentless. Then also started to rain. It rained steadily matically. Yet the scenery made up for just bellow Portrait Lake we arrived the whole afternoon, hard at times. the hardship. We were surrounded by into the kingdom of the "Giant Beaver". Today was supposed to be a day of rest, after three days of working hard. But we were behind in the schedule, so, in spite of our fatigue, we had to keep going. Being inside my head was the most comfortable place to be. My body paddled on automatic up continuous swifts. There didn't seem to be an end to them. The water moved relentlessly and fast, even through a swamp. We kept looking for Peter Lake, but by 5 p.m. all we found was a hill that we obviously had to climb. I couldn't quite understand why there was a hill in our way. But for now we had other priorities and could not afford to be puzzled by this obstacle. We were cold and wet and needed to camp. As we were between a swamp and a sloping hill the only place we could find was a small sandbar (about 3x3 metres). After dinner we examined the route ahead of us on the map. There were three contour lines between our camp at the foot of the hill and Peter Lake. "But how is that possible? When I checked the map at the library in the winter this area looked flat," I ex- claimed.

Day 5 Bright sun woke us up in the morning. As I looked uphill, Peter Creek seemed just as steep, but with the sparkling water cascading down, appeared far friendlier than the night before. We had to use the creek itself to move onward. The bush was so dense on either side of the creek that getting through it with a pack would have been difficult and Hugh at the top of the Staircase

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 19 Portrait Lake

As if to "finish ourselves off" we had to Portrait and Willow were both apt clear moose path led us on and at this haul the canoe up a few high beaver names for this lake. point we started a three kilometre de- dams. One of them was about 50 me- When we had finally packed-up by scent into the Ross River valley. The tres long and over two metres high! 10 a.m., we dragged our butts over to path was rough in some places, marshy the end of the lake. As we paddled, Mt. in others and surrounded by dense veg- Day 6 Wilson appeared, guarding the Moose etation. This forced us to push the This morning Hugh and I decided to Ponds on the South Nahanni. Our final canoe through bushes, a pretty cumber- have "a three-coffee cup breakfast." Our destination was in Sight! It was only some and physically draining exercise. bodies needed some downtime and our eight kilometres away as the crow flies! The day was hot and we were getting pants mending. We enjoyed the coffee Our spirits lifted. With renewed enthu- dehydrated. Sometime in the afternoon with a view of mountain ranges back to siasm we started pulling the canoe over I tripped over a rock while portaging the west and a view of willowy shores a marsh. It went quite well considering the canoe and fell flat on my stomach. to the east. I wouldn't have thought that the fact that we were walking in 10 cen- My whole body was underneath the portrait-like scenery and willows go to- timetres of water. canoe: only one foot was sticking out. gether, but here we indeed had both. When we got through the marsh, a Amazingly, I didn't hurt a thing, only

20 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 scared Hugh. In my giddy state of ex- haustion I didn't even care. Considering the consequences took too much effort. I felt dismayed when we finished the "portage." There was no river there. I suppose I had assumed that just as in other places, a portage ends at a water- way. Well, this wasn't a portage, but a N moose trail. And it ended not at a wa- terway, but at a huge marsh. So around 5 p.m. we had to drag the canoe and i ourselves with the packs again through about 200 metres of slimy gunk and kilometres 10 then paddle through meanders that eventually got us to the Ross River.

Day 7 Lining up the Ross River was at first quite easy with a number of gravel bars to walk on as the river flowed gently in all directions! This was not just an the muscle while portaging. I did have through a healthy alpine forest. The easy after-dinner stroll. Knowing that the rum but only to ease the pain, not weather was pleasant and the views of Moose Ponds nestle at the feet of to celebrate our accomplishment. The Mount Wilson in the background made Mount Wilson but not being able to see rum was the best medicine we had be- the scenery poetic. In the early after- them, we managed a circuitous and at cause it acted as a muscle relaxant. It al- noon the terrain started rising and we times wet, three hour struggle through lowed me to sleep until the plane ar- had an opportunity to practice up- and around willows and swamp until rived and brought me some heavy duty stream ferries. Many of them were tight exhaustion made it time to forget the muscle relaxants. Those made me sleep manoeuvres through C-2 rapids avoid- whole thing for the rest of the day. We for another 24 hours and put me back ing rocks. This was not Ferry Practice headed for a cluster of trees (the only on my feet. 101! Our moves had to be exact and landmark around) and left our canoe executed fast. The terrain gained yet a and pack there. Now it was time to start on the second few more degrees in altitude as we ap- leg of our canoe trip. proached the pass. We couldn't ferry DayS any longer and had to wade through I woke up with a pain in my back. Trip Details: the water often waist-deep and push didn't pay much attention to it as we Put-In: I recommend that you start the boat up the rapids. As I eyed, with a had only one more carry to do! Only from Canol Road about one kilometre great deal of apprehension yet another three kilometres before this journey below the second bridge over the South 200-metre stretch of bubbly rapids ends! Tomorrow Norm and Earl would MacMillan River. above us, Hugh found a take-out on fly in and join us to run Rock Garden Route Description: downstream on the river left. I was so relieved to be out of rapids! We packed up, said good-by to South Macmillan River, up Witham the rapids! Ross River and headed for our cluster Creek, across Witham Lake, up Peter All we had left now was a portage of trees. I took frequent breaks because Creek across Peter Lake, up a creek, over to the Moose Ponds. We were cu- my back was feeling progressively more across Portrait (Willow) Lake, portage rious to see what the Continental painful. By the time we reached the overland to Ross River, up Ross River, Divide would be like to portage. I en- trees I was feeling quite miserable and portage overland to Moose Ponds. visaged climbing a Golden Staircase as upon reaching the ponds in another Navigation: 1; 50000 topo maps # 105 the gold seekers did during the twenty minutes I could barely walk. OIl: 105 J/16: 105 1113, compass and Klondike Gold Rush. So after dinner we Now was the time to celebrate with a GPS. set off with everything we didn't need bottle of over-proof rum. We had Length: Approximately 50km (13km for our camp at the river. We took turns reached the Moose Ponds and com- downstream canoeing, 15km portaging. carrying a pack and the canoe. The pleted an amazing seven-and-a-half-day If you have one load, l.Okrn paddling path at first went uphill for about 200 journey through the mountains! across lakes, 12km lining upstream). metres where terrain levelled off. There But all I cared about was putting up Time: 8 days. Rapids: 1- III+. were no steep hills, big boulders, scree the tent and climbing into a sleeping For a detailed route description fields, or snow to negotiate, but some- bag. I must have pulled a muscle while e-mail: [email protected] thing more insidious: moose trails that pushing the canoe against rapids on went on and on through dense willows Ross River and then further aggravated

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 21 CPM #40015547 Published by the Wilderness Canoe Association ISSN 1828-1327 Nastawgan is an Anishinabi word meaning "the way or route"

The WILDERNESS CANOE ASSOCIATION is a non-profit itate the exchange of information and ideas of interest to organization made up of individuals interested in wilder- wilderness travellers, organizes an extensive program of ness travel, mainly by canoe and kayak, but also including trips for members, runs a few basic workshops, and is backpacking and winter trips on both skis and snowshoes. involved in environmental issues relevant to wilderness The club publishes a quarterly journal, Nastawgan, to facil- canoeing.

NEWS BRIEFS CHINIGUCHI WATERWAY The Friends of Chiniguchi is a newly formed non-profit or- NASTAWGAN MATERIAL AND DEADLINE ganization dedicated to the protection and preservation Articles, trip reports, book reviews, photographs, sketches, technical tips, or anything else that you think might be of of the Chiniguchi Waterway. Our organization consists of interest to other readers, are needed for future issues. Try a group of volunteers who maintain the campsites and to submit your contributions bye-mail, on computer disk portage trails along these unique canoe routes. Our plan (WordPerfect or MS Word or text files preferred, but any is the creation of a provincial park located in the format is welcome), or in typewritten form, but legibly Southwest corner of Temagami, which includes Dewdney, handwritten material will also be accepted. For more in- Wolf, Sylvester, Matagamasi, Donald, and Kukagami lakes. formation contact the editor-in-chief (address etc. see The Chiniguchi Waterway offers interesting geological WCA Contacts on the back page). Contributor's Guidelines formations, often compared to those of Killarney are available upon request; please follow these guidelines Provincial Park, as well as old growth Red Pine forests, sev- as much as possible to increase the efficiency of the pro- eral ancient Aboriginal pictograph sites, and miles of duction of our journal. The deadline dates for the next four canoe routes based on traditional Nastawgan. issues are: A website has been set up to help inform the public of Issue: Summer 2006 deadline date: May 1 some of the news and issues that are affecting the Fall 2006 July 31 Chiniguchi Waterway, and a thunderbox construction and Winter 2006 October 30 distribution project is currently in the works, to be in- Spring 2007 January 30 stalled on the most heavily used campsites along the MULTIPLE YEAR WCA MEMBERSHIPS are now possible, route. albeit with no discount. This will help alleviate much of the The Friends of Chiniguchi's first task for the summer (volunteer) administrative work, saveyour time and postage, 2006, is to wade into the stalled plan to create the and also hedge against future fee increases. Contact mem- Chiniguchi Waterway Park. The park creation has been bership secretary Gary Jamesfor more information. stymied by the mining leases covering the Wolf Lake area, located in the middle of the park. Our memberlist of supporters is growing day by day AJV'om pfW'hanh& and every name added to this list will help give canoeists Now that I have retired as editor of Nastawgan, a voice when it comes to planning and managing this unique and scenic area. Please visit our website at I want to show my sincere appreciation for the www.friendsofchiniguchi.org and add your name to our many expressions of gratitude I have received memberlist today. for the work I have done. Producing 82 issues Thanks of our newsletter in more than 20 years has Mike Mcintosh been quite an adventure and it's wonderful to Chair, Friends of Chiniguchi read and hear the members' grateful reactions. WCA Contact: Erhard Kraus ([email protected]) Also, seeing so many smiling faces at the Wine and Cheese Party did Ria and me a whole lot SATELLITE PHOTOGRAPHY Want to have a good look at your beloved rivers and of good. Being your editor has been a blast, lakes? Then go to www.earth.google.com and find out thanks. how inspiring it is to see the world from high up in Toni Harting remarkable detail. T. Harting

22 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 NEWS BRIEFS EDITOR'S NOTE: DROUGHT DISASTER EXPLAINED Nastawgan hopes to bring you excerpts of select (Reprinted from the Canadian Canoe Routes website) favourites from our libraries. Sharing passages "To put things in perspective," I have decided to talk that stir the soul back home and might find their about the accident that Barbara and I had. First let me say way into your map case to warm a moment by a that we have been travelling in the Barrens for 17 years campfire or add clarity to a blur of insight almost now and it is inconceivable that at some time or other making it to consciousness: that is our goal. Your some sort of accident would not occur. We have been editorial team hope this regular feature is well re- lucky. To date in those 17 years, we have only had a ceived. Why not, let us know and pass along your sprained ankle, a broken wrist and a prolapsed disk. None ideas for regular or irregular columns. of them required medical evacuation. But for the last 14 Nastawgan Editorial Team years we have carried a VHF Air Transceiver, and for the last 6 years, a satellite phone. We have never considered a locater device of any sort simply because they are not pre- cise enough with regard to giving information on condi- THANKS FOR SUPPORTING THE TEMAGAMI tions of weather or emergency. To get back to our accident on the 2nd August of this INTEGRATED PLANNING INITIATIVE year (2005), we were involved in normal activities, hav- At the recent Wilderness Canoeing Symposium, George ing a late breakfast at 10.30 a.m. We were camped on a Luste kindly gave us permission to distribute letters in sup- high point over the Back River almost precisely 40-km port of the Temagami Integrated Planning initiative. A from Chantrey Inlet and 30-km from the Hayes River, planning process directed at the management of recre- which was to be our pick up location. We were using our ational activities in the Temagami area. Tundra Tunnel (Eureka Tunnel Vision Tent) for shelter. About 150 form letters and other materials were picked Coffee was brewing on an MSR Whisper Lite and about up by attendees and we received about 50 signed letters 2ft away porridge was cooking in a large Coleman Pot on by Saturday evening. That is a pretty good number for a an MSR Dragonfly Stove. We had the windshield in use campaign of this nature and I would like to thank all of but it was not between the stove and the tank. Right from you who took the time to read the material and respond lighting the Dragonfly it sounded as though it was burn- ing harder than usual. Then simultaneously I bent down by signing the letter. to pick the coffee pot off the Whisper Lite and Barbara If by chance you are still thinking about it, well, you bent down to turn the Dragonfly down. At that moment haven't missed the boat. We still need your help and the the side of the fuel tank on the Dragonfly split about 1" MNR would appreciate hearing your thoughts about this on the side and a ball of fire exploded into the tent. It process as it relates to canoeists. blew two thirds of the tent away hit me full in the face In the meantime, thank you all for your help and for and set fire to my rain jacket. I burned my hands putting taking the time to participate. my jacket out. It caught Barbara badly on her left arm, Best regards, burned her right arm slightly and her thighs also slightly. Ed. MacPherson Her clothing was destroyed but it saved her from worse [email protected] harm. The biggest blessing was that the tent did not burn 519-763-1253 as law in Canada and the USA requires tents be made of flame retardant materials. I screamed when it happened Guelph, ON and that saved my lungs otherwise I would probably have PS: for further information on the TIP process go to: inhaled the flame and burned my throat and lungs. As it http://www.ottertooth.com/Temagami/newsbriefs.htm was, the interior of my nostrils was burned. and follow the links. We were fortunate. One member of our party was an emergency doctor. She was able to treat our wounds im- mediately and assessthe situation. She also gave the two of us morphine injections for the pain. One other member The rest of the group paddled on to the Hayes River of our party of six had his left hand burned and she towing our canoe and equipment and were picked up as treated that. scheduled on 6th August. Bill Layman is correct. If you in- The satellite phone was then used to contact the RCMP sist on Location Devices, ONLY use a personal one but a in Baker Lake and arranged the evacuation of the two of Satellite phone is infinitely better because it allows for sen- us, Barbara because her left arm was so badly burned, and sible discussion and decision making." myself in case my lungs were burned. At 4.30 p.m. a hel- I hope that this is of some help to you. icopter picked the two of us up and flew us to Baker Lake George for further treatment. Except for Barbara's arm we are Note: Look for more about disasters on the Back in the now both fully recovered. summer issue.

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 23 ON STOVES by Bill Ness

When I started out, the only stoves ing. Only a few allow instant lighting the leather pump washer. It dries out available were little self-priming ones but I think it's a great feature. I've easily and requires periodic oiling. made in Sweden. They were as sim- heard people say these stoves won't Bottom line is that you must be able ple a stove as one could get(no vaporize fuel automatically in cold to maintain, in the field, any stove pump to pressurize them and only weather. I've used mine down to that you are considering. The manu- two output levels: blow torch and about -40 without a hitch. If you're facturer should offer a repair or field off. They were cantankerous to start going to Antarctica, I'm not sure maintenance kit that I suggest you and if overheated could blow up in though. The other thing I really like buy with the stove. Then get a your face with the power of a hand about the old thing is its outstanding wrench, screwdriver, or whatever you grenade. However, since the only simmer control and large burner need to dismantle the unit. Do some moving parts were the fuel cap and head. This doesn't matter for some playing around at home so you feel the fuel valve, they were stupidly reli- people's menus as they are mainly comfortable "field stripping" your able. Once you figured out how to heating water. However, if it does to stove. Try to find out the weak spots deal with their idiosyncrasies, they you, ask about the simmer ability of of your design so you'll be prepared. never let you down. You could kick any stove. If you like doing more Again, gossip on the Net is a good them in the lake, fish 'em out, dry elaborate meals like pancakes and source of such information. 'em off, and get the water going for omelets, you are better with a large A downside of old designs like my tea. However, given their peculiar burner head. Even if a stove can be Coleman is that it has a steel tank at- personalities, most outdoors people turned down well to simmer, if the tached below the burner. This makes didn't shed many tears when more head is small, it just heats a small it larger and heavier than some new user-friendly stoves came alone. spot under the pan. A larger burner models that are basically a burner However, I still keep mine as curiosi- spreads the heat out a lot better. head with a fuel line that screws into ties of outdoor gear history. With small burner stoves, if you crank a fuel bottle. So if weight and volume I've got an old Coleman Peak One up the heat, it's about like putting a are important, as they are for most that has served me reliably for many propane torch to the pot: intense trippers, have a good look at the years. They seem to have gone out of heat in a small spot. OK for water: newer designs that use a regular alu- fashion in recent years though. Let not so good for cream sauces. minum fuel bottle as a fuel reservoir. me generalize about stoves, based on My stove is basically a miniaturized My final comments about stoves my experience with it. Hopefully this single version of the classic two- would be firstly, buy or make a wind- will give you some things to think burner Coleman camp stove. These screen. It will improve the perform- about when you go shopping. have been around since probably the ance of any stove. Secondly, be care- I like the fact that when I take my '30's, and you can see them in daily ful about using oversized pots on stove out of the case, it's ready to go. use as the family stove for native peo- your stove, especially with a wind- I don't have to do any assembly(at- ple and outdoor professionals all screen, if the arrangement on your tach fuel lines to bottles, etc.( as you across the north. That's a great testi- particular model causes heat to be do on some stoves. Also, it's very monial to its reliability. I've learned by channeled around the fuel reservoir. rugged and will take a lot of chuck- bitter experience to be cautious about If your windscreen encircles the fuel ing around without getting dam- products that are new to the market, container and burner and you place aged. Carefully check stoves that especially when it's an item that I'm a jumbo pot on top, you're not cook- have separate burners and bottles as depending on to make my meals in ing a meal, you're cooking up an ex- some have exposed delicate parts the bush. Personally, before I would plosion. Finally, never pour fuel di- that are easily damaged. You'd cer- buy, I'd like to see a model on the rectly from the can you bought at tainly want to keep them in a hard market a couple of seasons so that the the store into your stove or fuel bot- case or padded bag. The other thing manufacturer can work out any bugs tle without using a cloth filter. Cut a I like about my stove is that it's really and I can get performance feedback piece of felt to fit in the bottom of easy to light. Pump it up and put a from retailers and other paddlers. your funnel. This will protect against match to it. Some stoves require Now, the Internet, of course, is a great contamination with oil and particles, pumping and opening the valve to source of such information. which will quickly do in even the put liquid fuel in a cup at the base of While my stove has always been most reliable stoves. the burner. You then have to light reliable, I do like to know that I can There are a lot of good models on the liquid, which heats the burner repair it in the field, if need be, espe- the market so you should be able to head. This allows the fuel to vaporize cially on longer outings. Conse- find one that meets your particular when you re-open the fuel valve to quently, I carry a replacement gener- culinary and tripping style. start the stove actually running. I'd ator and a small adjustable open-end Happy shopping and happy suggest you check lighting instruc- wrench. I've also learned that one of cooking. tions on any stove you are consider- the design weaknesses of my stove is Bill Ness

24 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 Food for Paddlers Letter from the Editor If we all have just a little more patience, we will soon be on the water. We're especially ready for spring this year due to the poor showing of sno~ which has certainly elim- PEMMICAN inated most local cross country skiing fun. I The word pemmican is derived from the Abnaki word pemikan (pay-me-kan) and the consider myself lucky though, having found Cree word pimikan (pe-me-kan). In the Cree language, the word was originally used to something else to do and that is to be your new editor-in-chief. Even luckier is the fact describe the action of bone marrow grease preparation, but later evolved to mean the that the first issue of 2006 is out to you just product itself. The preparation of pemmican evolved over thousands of years, for the as run-off or at least warm air is about to purpose of storing meat. It became the best concentrated, unspoilable and easily trans- begin. portable food in North America. It was the major food staple which enabled Alexander In this issue you will find a notice from Toni Mackenzie in 1793 to be the first European to cross the North American continent. Harting who has decided to find other uses The Hudson's Bay Company bought tons of pemmican from the Indians and later the for the time that he usually spends editing Metis. It paid a premium price for pemmican made solely from the best of lean meats Nastawgan. He thanks us for letting him be and only bone marrow grease. This was called sweet pemmican, which could be pre- our editor all these years. Well, I think that served for years. The Hudson's Bay Company factors calculated a supply of food for a everyone who was ever a member of the long trip on the basis of four kg/man/day of fresh meat or the equivalent of pemmican. WCA or happened to read an issue of It is estimated that 0.8 to 1 kg of pemmican was equivalent to 3 to 4 kg of fresh meat in Nastawgan owes Toni a tremendous thankyou for donating so many years of his nutritional value, which is approximately 14,000 calories. talents. Thank you Toni. You may be wondering why you are read- Original Pemmican Recipe ing this letter from me. Not too long ago, meat, bones &. skin from buffalo we announced that Bob Henderson would saskatoon berries be the new editor-in-chief and I would be a peppermint leaves (optional) member of his team. Unfortunately, Bob wild onions (optional) could not continue with the job and I guess I was standing there in line. Bob has not Cut meat into thin strips and dry over fire or in sun and wind. When meat is dry (all left the team though; he will be a resource redness gone), shred using two stones (flat stone for mortar and small round stone for person, looking for new material of interest to readers of Nastawgan. pounder). Wash berries, then dry in sun for S days at 26 -32 degrees C. Crack femur and tibia bones and boil for 3 hours, let cool overnight. Mix meat and berries thor- We hope that you enjoy this issue of Nastawgan and that we can continue to oughly, add to hot grease. Blend to produce an even consistency. Pour the hot mixture bring interesting stories of paddling and into buffalo hide bags and let cool and harden. Rub the bags with hot tallow to seal. To wilderness to its pages and to you, its most serve, cut off chunks with an axe and eat raw or boiled. important participants. And Toni, let me thank you for the job. Alternate Recipe - when buffalo scarce Elizabeth 8 oz. jerky (of any meat) very dry and crumbly 8 oz. raisins 8 oz. peanuts or pecans, unroasted 8 oz. dried apricots, chopped (optional) 8 oz. dried peaches, chopped (optional) 8 oz. dried blueberries (optional) 2 tsp honey 4 tsp peanut butter 3/4 tsp cayenne pepper

Pound the jerky into powder or grind it using an electric blender. Add fruit and nuts. Heat honey and peanut butter to soften them, then blend into the mixture. Add cayenne pepper, working it thoroughly through the mixture. Put the pemmican in plastic tie bags, or, if you want to be completely natural, pack it into sausage casings.

Source: http://www.geocities.com!YosemiteiGeyser/4034/pemmican.html

The above information and original pemmican recipe adapted from: http://collections.ic.gc.calnotukeu/pemmican_e.htm If you would like to share your favourite tripping recipes, please contact Barb Young, 12 Erindale Crescent, Brampton, Ont. L6W 1BS;[email protected].

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 25 Book Reviews book, you will find the solution to a tures walking about on their hind legs. mystery that has been talked about "I think they are people," Joe ex- THE CABIN, A Search for Personal around many a campfire. Indeed, claimed in disbelief. Three months Sanctuary by Hap Wilson, published Hap's official first name is David. Let's had passed since we had seen an- by Natural Heritage Books, Toronto, stick with Hap. other human being, but, indeed, www.naturalheritagebooks.com. these were children, dressed from 2005, softcover, 192 pages, $24.95. A DEATH ON THE BARRENS, By head to toe in caribou fur, playing on Review by Toni Harting. George Grinnell, illustrated by Rod the tundra. Maciver, published by Heron Dance When we landed, a woman, also If you thought that Hap could only Press (01/05), $16.00 dressed completely in fur, emerged paddle and draw you will be pleas- Review by Rod Maciver, Heron antly surprised by this delightful book from a tent. We stayed by the ca- Dance Books that clearly shows he can also pro- noes so as not to overwhelm her, while Skip walked slowly up the duce some pretty thoughtful quality In 1955 five men in their early twen- stuff with the pen. The Cabin is a ties set off with 36-year-old Art bank, pronouncing reassuring sometimes painfully honest account Moffat on a summer-long canoe trip words in English, none of which of various ups and downs in Hap's through the sub-arctic and arctic. she seemed to understand. Her life, focussing on his search for per- The group traveled through long sec- children gathered close about her sonal freedom and, indeed, sanctu- tions of previously unmapped terri- caribou-clad legs for protection. ary. It's all there, the lack of under- tory. As winter approached, they ran She too was frightened. There were standing and insight of his parents, out of food. When the group inad- no men around. Was it we who the unhappy periods in his child- vertently went over a waterfall, Art needed rescuing, or her? The only hood, his discovery of his great love Moffat succumbed to hypothermia. thing we were certain of was that (paddling the wilderness) and his For fifty years, George Grinnell, she was more frightened of us than overriding passion (the lakes and one of the young men on the trip, we were of her, so we left and pad- streams of Temagami in northern has been writing and re-writing the dled across the narrows to the op- Ontario). This guy really has the out- story of the trip. The result is a pow- posite shore, set up camp, built a doors in his blood and he is prepared erful book of survival and awakening, stone wall against the impending to fight for its well-being with the a physical and spiritual odyssey. A storm, then cooked up the last of dedication of a fanatic. Death on the Barrens, was originally the dehydrated carrots for dinner. It's really not necessary to write a published in 1996. The following ex- During our meal, we heard the thorough review of this book. It's cerpt is from the revised Heron sound of an outboard motor and a fine, it's touching, it's intelligent, it's Dance Press edition. boat suddenly appeared from wonderful reading for anybody inter- around the bend. When he saw us, ested in the outdoors and its people. The storm was long foretold. We the Inuit hunter turned sharply to- It's also well illustrated with many of continued cautiously down the lake, wards shore and landed. Three Hap's famous drawings. Hap obvi- keeping an eye on the sky all around. boys and a dead caribou were in ously knows how to write his The quiet ballet of warm and cold the boat with him. They were smil- thoughts down eloquently, but the fronts danced all day. Through blue ing broadly. We invited them to use of "heavy, difficult" words is holes in the lower strata I could see share some dehydrated carrots sometimes a bit too much (and not wispy cirrus clouds sparkling like dia- with us, which Bruce had cooked always required) and makes the book monds in the golden light of the directly in the tin can they had harder to read than necessary. I also southern sun. Closer to the ground, been packed in, and from which have some (minor) squabbles with the darker clouds burned against the we were now eating, using the lid the presentation of the text: over-use azure horizon. We paddled toward as a spoon. of italics, sometimes sloppy punctu- that distant horizon, never able to The Inuit shared this spare meal ation, confusing mix of miles vs. kilo- reach it physically, but being contin- with us with polite smiles. They metres (it's best to use either impe- ually transformed by it spiritually. We rubbed their bellies as if it were the rial or metric, not both) [have a look paddled more slowly. I wondered best meal they had ever eaten, but at my style guide,] paragraphs that whether we had already arrived at they could not all bring themselves are sometimes too long. However, our destination. to swallow the carrots. Finally the this is easily forgiven because The Toward evening, we felt the cur- hunter, cheeks bulging, disappeared Cabin gives such fine insight into the rent drawing us out of the lake into behind a rock and when he returned full life of one of our best-known and fast water; our paddle strokes quick- he was still smiling broadly and rub- most-admired wilderness canoeists. ened to keep pace with the tumul- bing his belly, but his cheeks were no By the way, if you study the tuous river, until something on the left longer bulging with carrots. He sat "copyright page" in the front of the shore caught our eye: small furry crea- down again.

26 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 Before we had finished eating, the around. We wolfed them down. I do Inuit hunter pointed to the sky and not know if they had been planning PRODUCTS AND suddenly stood up; the boys fol- to join us, but when they saw how lowed and in a moment they were hungrily we ate them, they held back SERVICES gone. and left us all the steaks. All was silent. Camp seemed When the pot was empty of meat, This PRODUCTS AND SERVICESsection empty without them, as if they had and our tea finished, the hunter of- is available, free of charge and on a never been there, and we were left to fered us the fatty broth the steaks first-come, first-served basis, to mem- face the storm, which raged all night, had been boiled up in. We shook our bers as well as non-members for their alone again. heads politely. He offered it a second announcements regarding items for The following day, as the blizzard time, and when we again refused, sale, special products, discounts, serv- blew itself out, we lay low in our knowing that they, like us, valued the ices, courses, etc. Contact the editor if tents and slept, for lack of food. fat more than the meat, he poured a more information is required. Toward evening, I heard strange tiny bit out onto the ground. We all WCA MERCHANDISE We have a sounds through the whistling of the leaped forward to save it. They wide selection of WCA merchandise wind. laughed and filled our tea cups with available for purchase at all WCA "ls that you, George?" Skip asked it, then indicated through gestures events (but not by mail order). Items from the other tent. that we were more like Inuit than available include WCA mugs ($5), "No. I thought it was you." I white men. We laughed happily, for crests ($3),and decals ($1). We also poked my head out and discovered they could not have paid us a deeper have WCA clothing in a range of our new friend, the Inuit hunter. compliment. colours and sizes. Each item is a high- "Tea? Canoe?" I was puzzled. I After a while the hunter began to quality product that has been em- thought perhaps that he wanted prance over the rocks in imitation of broidered with a colourful WCA logo. a caribou. Then he stopped, and some tea, or to borrow a canoe. My At your next event plan to purchase held his hand to his brow as if look- companions shortly emerged, but all one of these garments and proudly ing far into the distance. were just as puzzled. represent your organization. "Tea? Canoe?" the Inuit hunter We shook our heads. We had seen Golf Shirts:$30; Fleece Vests: $40; asked again. no caribou for ten days. Skip held up Fleece Jackets:$60. (Cheque or cash We decided hopefully that he was both hands, then pointed to the sun, only.) inviting us to tea at his place. We drew its motion across the sky with For up-to-date information on picked up our canoes and began to his finger in the air, and held up his Products and Services items, go to carry them toward the water, but ten fingers again. The hunter under- the Bulletin Board of the WCA web- were stopped when the hunter stood. He looked sad. We hoped his site: www.wildernesscanoe.ca. placed his hand firmly on the bow of family would not be facing starvation the green canoe and pressed it that winter as so many had before Survivorman Fans down. them. Les Stroud's Survivorrnan''" Series "Thank you! Thank you!" he said. As darkness settled, we went our Season 1 is available on DVD contain- His command of English was limited, separate ways. We were tempted to ing 10 episodes for $34.99. If you are and ours of Inuktitut was non-exis- ask the hunter to guide us down the lucky to be one of the first 250 to tent. He began to walk away, and we river to Baker Lake, which was still a purchase, you will received an auto- stood by our tents in despair, until he hundred or so miles away; but we re- graphed copy. turned and beckoned us to follow. strained ourselves. He had a family to Also on VHS are Les's earlier works: Behind some rocks on the beach, feed, and here we were, grown men, Snowshoes and Solitude, the award- we found other Inuit men standing frightened of what the Inuit children winning documentary about Les and around and heard the distinct roar of lived with every day. his wife's one-year escape from mod- a kerosene stove coming from be- This book and other classics ern society to live in the Canadian hind a curtain. He handed us of northern Canadian canoeing wilderness chipped enamel cups, then reached (Sleeping Island and True North) were Stranded (is the pilot version of through the curtain and brought recently brought back into print by Survivorrnan>'). where Les makes his forth a pot of boiling tea. We were Heron Dance Press (www.heron- first two ventures out in the Canadian very grateful to warm our bellies with dance.org) and are distributed in Wilderness, without food, water, shel- hot tea, but we could not help notice Canada by Natural Heritage Books ter, matches, or a camera crew. Les that there was also a large pot filled 1-800-725-9982 experiences these 7-day challenges in the heat of summer and the dead of with caribou steaks steaming on the (www.naturalheritagebooks.com). winter. rocks nearby. This excerpt was selected by Rod To order, go to to http://www. The hunter caught us eyeing Maciver, Publisher of Heron Dance lesstroudonline.com/shop.html them, reached in and handed them Press.

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 27 Excerpts from The Last Wilderness the wind and waves to moderate, ows and echoes. by Peter Browning, a trip from ...to and perched ourselves on a protrud- We rode the bus to Edmonton, a Snowdrift. ing boulder in shallow water fifty feet 1,OOO-mile trip that took thirty-two off shore. hours. We picked up John's car, and After the meal John broke out his After emptying our boots and steered westward. There followed a fishing gear for the first time. I re- wringing out our socks, we discussed rapid tour through Jasper National laxed and watched the sunset and the affairs of the world. It was a most Park, Banff and Lake Louise, Yoho, the trees and the calm lake, listened incongruous scene: probably the Glacier, and Mt. Revelstoke national to the restless, persistent chirping of only human beings within a radius of parks, along the Fraser River, on to the birds, and stared into the fire. a hundred miles, perched like two Vancouver, and then to Seattle. Fire was not only comfort and con- soggy cats on a hunk of rock sur- There was little joy in any of it. We venience and necessity, it was the rounded by water, waiting meekly did it because we had planned it, means by which we felt environ- for a change in the weather, and all and did not even conceive of altering ment, bending it to our will and the while hashing over the problems the arrangement. The food obses- making it perform for us. In civiliza- of the organized society from which sions were still with us. We con- tion, with all the light and heat one we had temporarily escaped. Perhaps sumed three large meals a day, had desires available at the snap of a it was a good indication that perma- many snacks between meals, and switch, there is no such strength and nent escape was not possible. were unable to pass a bakery without security to be had from so minor a The trip had ended in a crashing stopping for a sackful of tarts, rolls thing as fire. Technological and sci- anticlimax. We were emotionally and cookies. entific progress seem capable of sup- empty. The delight and sense of We parted company in Seattle fif- plying endless amounts of power to achievement we had anticipated so teen days after our arrival at individuals and societies alike, and at long had not appeared. Nor was Snowdrift. Both of us felt that much the same time increasing their long- there any incentive other than food had been left unsaid, that we had ing for more power still, always obsessions that could drag us from failed to make a proper summation more. But that night I got a far the tent in the morning. What it was of the trip in terms that had meaning greater sense of power and well that we had expected I could not re- and value for either of us. And we being than ever before from fire. member. A brass band? Welcoming despaired of ever imparting to any- What John and I needed was the speeches: the keys to the city? one else more than a superficial, bar- symbol and not the actuality of Adulation of a raucous multitudes? -- ren description of the wanderer's power, and for this the small comfort - I did not know. We were left with progress through the solitude and of a modest fire served quite well. the vague, rankling impression that cold beauty of the North. Surely primitive peoples have always we had been cheated of whatever it felt about fire as I did then. An illu- was we sought. We felt that there sory and deceptive feeling, perhaps, should have been, in some fashion or yet it sufficed. All the seeming sub- other, a grand and profound conclu- PRODUCTS AND stance of those wavering, evanescent sion to our long journey, but there flames was in a man's mind, but for was nothing we could pinpoint. It SERVICES the moment it served to hold back had abruptly ended, expired, died, the immense, unknown, threatening like the flame of a candle snuffed out Passing through, staying over, seek- darkness. between thumb and forefinger. ing refuge, check out this: New Peterborough lodging: passing In the afternoon we crossed a The romantic intermezzo was through, staying over, seeking refuge, small lake, and wearily waded the over; the chimerical summer was be- check out this: canoe down a long, rough rapids. hind us. Forty-eight hours after the For residents, canoe trippers, guests, We started across a larger lake, and trip ended we were scarcely above to and road trips in the Peterborough had made half a mile when a strong believe that we had done it. Rather it area, go to website and drop by for a wind with huge waves came rushing seemed that we had thumbed visit at: at us. It was too much for us to buck, through a picture book of a journey www.kingbethunehouse.com (full de- so we turned around and attempted taken by two remote acquaintances. tails of guesthouse) to run back to a fine beach and Our lives had been torn up by the www.festivalhost.com (useful local in- campsite that was astern and slightly roots; there was not stability and no formation) to the right of us --- but we couldn't permanence. The leap back into the King Bethune House, get there. The waves were so large mechanical world was as abrupt and Guest House & Spa that we couldn't angle across them complete as was our departure from 270 King Street to the slightest degree. They carried it eleven weeks earlier. Once again a Peterborough, Ontario us back past the point we had host of gaudy, strident impressions Canada K9J 2S2 rounded shortly before. We ducked obliterated all memory. The present 705-743-4101 into the lee of the point to wait for dominated; the past was but shad- 1-800-574-3664

28 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 WCA OUTINGS WANT TO ORGANIZE A TRIP AND HAVE IT PRESENTED IN THE SUMMER ISSUE? Contact the Outings Committee before May 15

For questions, suggestions, proposals to organize trips, or anything else related to the WCA Outings, contact the Outings Committee: Bill Ness, 476-327 -3005, [email protected]; Gisela Curwen, 476-484-7477, [email protected]; Geri james, 476-572-6690, [email protected]; Scott Card, 905-665-7302, [email protected] WCA outings and other activities may have an element of danger of serious personal injury. You are ultimately responsible for your own safety and well-being when participating in club events.

All Season HAVE PADDLE WILL TRAVEL March 26 LOWER CREDIT RIVER Scott Card, 905-665-7302, [email protected] - Mowing the Bill Ness, 416-321-3005, [email protected], book before March 19 - Just lawn this weekend because you don't have any trips planned? I paddle leave the boat on the car after the Moira and join me on this classic early whitewater nearly every weekend from spring break-up through as long spring trip. We'll catch the river in Streetsville and run down to the as the water remains liquid in the fall (or winter). If you want to get out mouth at Port Credit. The river is a delightful continuous class 1 to 2 on a river any weekend, just call me to find out where I'm headed. I go with lots of play spots. However, as sweepers can present a hazard and wherever there's good water. Longer trips also a possibility. Trip diffi- the water will be cold, participants should be at least intermediates, and culty levels vary from intermediate to advanced. Open canoe, C1, or wear a wetsuit or drysuit. Limit of six boats. kayak welcome.

All Season HAVE PADDLE WILL TRAVEL, PART II April 1 MOIRA RIVER Al Sutton, 905-985-0261 - I'm on the river most weekends through John & Sharon Hackert, [email protected], book before March 25 the season. If you'd like to get away, give me a call to find out what I'm - A great trip is always worth repeating. Please see trip description doing. You're welcome to join me. Trip difficulty levels vary from inter- above. mediate to advanced. April 2 BURNT RIVER March - May FRED'S FABULOUS TRIPS: BLACK (WASHAGO), HEAD, Jon McPhee, 905-640-8819, book immediately - An easy river trip MOIRA RIVERS from Kinmount to above the village of Burnt River. Pretty scenery and a Fred Lum, 416-482-3774 - The Black near Washago and the Head a few short portages make this a pleasant spring outing. This is basically little farther southeast have some very interesting whitewater sections if a flatwater trip. There are several large rapids at this time of year. you catch them at the right levels. Both are quite different despite their However, these are easily carried over good portages, making this trip close proximity. The Head is a technical little creek with a number of enjoyable for novice paddlers. On the other hand, for any serious white- small ledges that will test a good intermediate's route finding and pre- water paddler who doesn't mind mixing a flatwater workout with the cision boat-handling skills. The Black has some super surfing waves frothy white stuff, these Class 3-4 rapids can provide an interesting chal- that make for a day full of fun even for experienced novices. Down lenge. Limit 6 boats. Belleville way, the Moira has a very challenging upper section at Lost Channel, requiring solid intermediate skills to negotiate a series of April 8 BEAVER CREEK ledges with large waves. There is also a roller-coaster-ride section far- John & Sharon Hackert, 416-438-7672, or [email protected], book ther down through long, easy rapids from Chisholm's Mill to the take- before April 1 - This will be a challenging whitewater run suitable for out at Latta that all paddlers from skilled novice up will enjoy. If there is advanced-level whitewater paddlers with fully outfitted canoes and interest, I could run a trip down the Upper Salmon, which is a step up in proper cold-weather attire. Note: if the river isn't open yet, we could difficulty with many class 2 to high class 3 rapids. I keep my eyes on switch to the Moira. Limit five boats. water levels and go when things look good. If you want to get on my call list for these trips, just send me an e-mail to April 15 BEAVER CREEK ENCORE [email protected]. John & Sharon Hackert, 416-438-7672, or [email protected], book Note: Paddlers must have drysuits or wetsuits, helmets, and at least before April 8- Please see April 8 description above. You had so much one throw bag per boat. All cars should be equipped with roof racks fun with us last week that you want to come back again; and besides, capable of carrying MORE than one boat so they can help out with the you have to pick up the Thermos that you left at the lunch spot. shuttles. April 16 LOWER BLACK RIVER (TWEED) March 25 MOIRA RIVER Jon McPhee, 905-640-8819, Scott Card, 905-665-7302, book before John & Sharon Hackert, [email protected], book before March 18 April 9 - We will run the lower section from Queensborough to Hwy. 7. - This is our season opener and a chance to recover our skills after a This is an interesting run for solid intermediate to advanced paddlers, long winter. We will start at Chisholm's Mill and finish at Latta in the with frequent technical class 2-3 rapids. Wetsuit/drysuit and full canoe morning, eat lunch in our vehicles, and run Lost Channel in the after- flotation are required. Limit five boats. noon. This is a good opportunity for new spring paddlers to introduce themselves and demonstrate their competence. The river is not particu- April 22 UPPER MADAWASKA RIVER larly technical and we will only be about an hour from our cars. This trip John & Sharon Hackert, 416-438-7672, or [email protected], book is open to anyone who doesn't mind swimming in ice-cold water. before April 15 - A day of whitewater excitement for advanced pad- Tandem canoes must have a centre airbag. Wetsuits or drysuits are re- dlers. The upper Madawaska is a fast-flowing pool-and-drop river with quired. Limit of six boats. quiet stretches interspersed with some very serious rapids. All rapids

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 29 can, and some must, be portaged. Wetsuits or drysuits, helmets, and May 20-22 MADAWASKA WINE AND CHEESE FESTIVAL fully outfitted whitewater boats with full flotation are musts. Limit six Larry Durst, 905-415-1152 or [email protected], book boats. as soon as possible to avoid disappointment. Join us for the sixth annual spring paddle/wine and cheese party. We April 29 MINESING SWAMP paddle from above Aumond's rapids to the take out at Griffith, a distance Ray Laughlen, 705-754-9479, [email protected] or of only 28km. The pace is leisurely with only the Sunday as a full day of [email protected], book before April 22 - This will be a slow paced paddling. Typically there is lots of time to play, chat and nibble. Rapids trip downstream from the Willow Creek 'coral' to Edenvale. We can range from class 1 to 4 and there are a couple of short but muddy check out the heronry, osprey nest, early spring migrants and maybe portages around falls. All other rapids can also be portaged. The water some furry critters. levels (and cholesterol levels) will be high. As well, cold weather is al- most always a challenge. Participants should be intermediate level and April 29 UPPER MADAWASKA RIVER-TAKE TWO be prepared for chilly, wet conditions. Attendees are also expected to John & Sharon Hackert, 416-438-7672, or [email protected], book share in camp preparations, transporting shared gear, etc. before April 23 - Please see April 22 description above. A chance to hit the eddies and surf the waves you missed last week. May 20-22 PETAWAWA RIVER RUN Frank Knaapen and Jay Neilson 613-687-6037, book before May 14.- April 29-30 SPENCE'S CELEBRATED SALMON-MOIRA WEEKEND Self-sufficient wilderness and whitewater outfitting including flotation, Glenn Spence, 613-475-4176, book before April 19 - Just north of wet/dry suits and strong intermediate whitewater skills are required. Belleville, these two rivers offer exciting whitewater and fine scenery. Second takeout at Crooked Chute is considered mandatory by organizers The Salmon is the more gentle run, with some small rapids for you to on this trip, so if you plan on actually running the chute, please do not practice your skills. The Moira has larger rapids possibly up to class 3. join this trip. You can bivouac at my house and enjoy a potluck dinner. These are two of Southern Ontario's finest spring rivers. Intermediate paddlers wel- May 27-28 INTERMEDIATE WHITEWATER CLINIC come. Limit six boats. John & Sharon Hackert, [email protected], book before April 22. - This is the tenth year of our clinic, which is designed to help improve April 29-30 SPRING IN MUSKOKA your basic skills. We will paddle the Lower Mad on Saturday and practice Gisela Curwen, 416-484-1471, gisela.cu [email protected], book before our basics skills at Palmer Rapids on Sunday. The emphasis will be on April 22 - We will paddle the Herb and Gun lakes near Minden and ex- front ferries, eddy-outs, and peel-outs. Your paddle strokes will be cri- perience the returning birds and discover other flora and fauna emerging tiqued. You will also have an opportunity to practice self-rescue tech- from hibernation. Maybe we will find the first turtles or the last cranber- niques. Open to properly outfitted solo and tandem canoes. Wetsuits or ries, as in past trips. Since it will still be too cold to sit around, we'll try drysuits will be needed. We will camp at our cottage. to hike a bit to explore the area and, as in past years, clean up portages and campsites along the way. There will be prizes for the best junk col- Early June DUMOINE RIVER lected! Limit four canoes. Frank Knaapen and Jay Neilson 613-687-6037, book before May 14.- Contact organizers for exact dates. This will be a 3-4 day extended week- May SPRING TRIPPING IN ALGONQUIN end trip. In early June this river requires self-sufficient wilderness and Andrea Fulton, [email protected], book as early as pos- whitewater outfitting including flotation, wet/dry suits and strong inter- sible. - Exact dates to be determined. Let's get out there before mediate whitewater skills. the black flies do! Join me and my two teenage daughters for an easy weekend trip in Algonquin off the Hwy. 60 corridor. This will June 4 ElORA GORGE be an easy flatwater trip with a few portages. I plan to camp Friday Bill Ness, 416-321-3005, [email protected] - Up north the bugs may be night at Tea Lake campground and do a one- or two-day loop into at their peak, but down on the Grand, you can at least paddle without the interior. getting eaten alive. At this time of year the Gorge is usually pretty tame, but it's a very pleasant day's outing. It's an excellent place for newer May 6 UPPER MADAWASKA RIVER - FOR THE LAST TIME moving water paddlers to get some practice developing their skills, and John & Sharon Hackert, 416-438-7672, or [email protected], book I'd be happy to provide some informal coaching for anyone who wants before April 30. - Please see April 22 description above. For those of it. Suitable for novice moving water paddlers. you who missed the first two trips. Lower water levels give the trip a dif- ferent feel from earlier in the season, so come on back to enjoy the June 10 GRAND RIVER Upper Mad in all its moods. Still a challenging trip for advanced pad- Doug Ashton 519-620-8364, book by June 1. - This popular trip down dlers though. the Grand River offers a local leisurely day from Cambridge to Paris where it passes through scenic farm country. This trip is suitable for May 13 LOWER MADAWASKA RIVER novice paddles with some moving water experience. An excellent family McPhee, 905-640-8819, book before May 6. - The classic day run from trip without any portaging. Aumond's Bay to Buck Bay through a number of big water Class 2-3 rapids. Suitable for solid intermediates or better with proper cold June 15-18 FRENCH RIVER - WESTERN OUTlETS weather attire and boats with full flotation. Limit 6 boats. Bob Fisher, 416-487-2950 or weekends 705-445-9339, book by June 1. - We will complete a circle route from Hartley Bay House out through Mid-May OPEONGO RIVER ALGONQUIN PARK the Western Outlets of the French River, exploring the historic Old Frank Knaapen and Jay Neilson 613-687-6037, book before May 7 . - Voyageur Channel, and return past the ghost logging town of Contact organizers for exact dates. We will run the Opeongo Saturday Copananing. There is a fee for parking, water taxi, and group dinners. and again on Sunday, camping at an awesome marsh with the spring Limit of six canoes. peepers. Self-sufficient wilderness and whitewater outfitting including flotation, wet/dry suits and strong intermediate whitewater skills are re- Late June/July INTERMEDIATE/ADVANCED SOLO WW COACHING quired for this Class II-III spring runoff river. WEEKEND Scott Card 905-665-7302, [email protected] - Take your pad-

30 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 dling skills to the next level! An advanced intermediate solo whitewater quite difficult. You should be at least a strong intermediate paddler to coaching weekend in late June or July with Barry Godden. Exact date to safely enjoy it. We recommend that you join us on some of our spring be determined. We will be covering advanced river reading and running trips to develop and practice your skills before attempting this river. as well as playboating. The weekend will be on the Ottawa or the Gull Limit six boats. River depending on water conditions. Participants must have there own boat and be comfortable with class III water. Limit 6 boats. August 12- 20 TEMAGAMI Richard Steinberg, cell @ 647-284-8083, business 905 671-5494, email July ROUGE RIVER @ [email protected], book as soon as possible. - Join Martin Heppner, 416-365-7802 or 416-465-1558; mheppner@an- us for a 9 day trip on Lake Temagami and surrounding area. Short visit chorsecurities.com , book by May 31. - Exact dates to be determined. to Bear Island Indian Reserve and a hike on the Old Growth Pine Hiking This is a whitewater trip from Lac Rouge to the Ottawa. Contact organ- Trail on Temagami Island. We will be exploring the northern area by way izer for details. of several portages. This is rated as an intermediate flat-water trip as the lake water can be rough at times. Due to planning requirements, can July 1-3 OTTAWA RIVER only accept participants who are certain they will be going. Please do John & Sharon Hackert, 416-438-7672, or [email protected], book not call unless you can make a firm commitment. before June 22. - We are fortunate to have access to the most beauti- ful campsite on the river. The Ottawa is big water and many of the rapids August 22-28 GEORGIAN BAY are quite difficult. You should be at least a strong intermediate paddler to Don Andersen, [email protected], 716-873-4476, book before July safely enjoy it. We recommend that you join us on some of our spring 22. - We will be visiting the more secluded, remote sections of trips to develop and practice your skills before attempting this river. Georgian Bay in the vicinity of the mouth of the Key River. We will be Limit six boats. exploring isolated sections of Sandy Bay, Kantos Point and the Champlain Islands in the southern portion of the trip with special em- July 7-9 CANOEING CHRISTIAN ISLAND phasis to explore Fox Bay or Fox Lake in the trip's northern extremity. Richard Steinberg, cell @ 647-284-8083, business 905 671-5494, email We may spend a night on Tanvat Island depending on weather and group @ [email protected], book as soon as possible. - We interest. We may be exploring some of these areas by foot as well. We will meet on the evening of Friday, July 7. Enjoy a weekend on Georgian will be searching for new residents to the area, the Sandhill Crane, a Bay. Canoe over to one of the first Imperial Lighthouses on Georgian large and magnificent water bird, whose range is increasing from the Bay. If the weather permits, we will search for the shipwreck Maple southwestern part of the Bay. This trip will use available sheltered waters Dawn up the coast at Daly Point. It's mostly flatwater, but winds can whenever conditions require it. This trip is suitable for parents with ado- make it rough. This will be a full day outing. Picnic & swimming on one lescent children to retired folk alike provided they are competent novices of the sandy beaches before returning. Sunday is open for coastal ca- who can manage windy conditions, waves, adhering to no-trace camping noeing. Due to planning requirements, can only accept participants who principles and can function in a team environment. Limit six canoes. are certain they will be going. Please do not call unless you can make a firm commitment August 27 - September 17 VOYAGEUR BOUNDARY WATERS Martin Heppner, 416-365-7802 or 416-465-1558; mheppner@an- July 8-9 INTRODUCTION TO MOVING WATER chorsecurities.com - Book by April 28th. We shall travel overland, Jon McPhee, 905-640-8819; Bill Ness, 416-321-3005; Scott Card, 905- westward to the Winnipeg River from Fort William and the Kaministiquia 665-7302, book before June 24. - This is a two-day workshop for flat- River or, alternatively, from Grand Portage and the Pigeon River, over water paddlers who want to develop basic moving-water skills. It should the height of land, stopping in Quetico along the way, then west to Rainy be of interest to trippers who want to become more comfortable negoti- Lake, then Lake of the Woods, ending at Minaki or the Winnipeg River. ating the moderate moving-water they often encounter on river trips, All plans to be made. Bring your pemmican. Limit of 3 canoes. and to canoeists who want to determine if whitewater paddling could be for them. We will focus on the basics of moving-water boat control and September 2-4 OTTAWA RIVER manoeuvres, water reading, and safety. Both tandem and solo paddlers John & Sharon Hackert, 416-438-7672, or [email protected], book are welcome. The weekend will be spent at Palmer Rapids on the before August 25th. - We are fortunate to have access to the most Madawaska River, one hour northeast of Bancroft. The location offers beautiful campsite on the river. The Ottawa is big water and many of the some of the best novice to intermediate whitewater in Southern Ontario. rapids are quite difficult. You should be at least a strong intermediate In order to be able to work closely with participants, registration is lim- paddler to safely enjoy it. We recommend that you join us on some of ited to six boats. our spring trips to develop and practice your skills before attempting Prerequisites: Participants must be able to steer a canoe competently this river. Limit six boats. on flatwater. A Royalex canoe with supplementary floatation (air bag, air mattress, inner tube, etc.) to simplify recovery when you capsize is September 2-4 RIVIERE AUX SAUBLES mandatory. If you need to rent a canoe, you should register and reserve Aleks Gusev, 416-236-7079, [email protected], book by August 15 - the boat immediately as there are very limited numbers available with Riviere aux Sables is west of Sudbury, near Massey. This is a long drive outfitters. Vest-type PFD's, helmets, and square-bladed, T-gripped white- from Toronto but well worth the trip for whitewater aficionados, with water paddles are necessary. Lastly, you must feel at home in the water some of the best technical water in Ontario (class 2 to 4 with some class to enjoy these workshops. 5 falls for the adventurers). Must be at least a strong intermediate pad- Recommended: While not required, a wetsuit will make floating in the dler. Fully outfitted whitewater boats required. Limit six boats. river more pleasant. Reviewing a Whitewater instructional book or video before we meet will familiarize you with the important concepts so you ADDITIONAL TRIPS can get the most value out of your river time. Check our website at www.wildernesscanoe.ca/trips.htm for additional trips. Members may submit additional trips to the Outings Committee August 5-7 OTTAWA RIVER anytime at [email protected]. If you miss the Nastawgan deadline, your John & Sharon Hackert, 416-438-7672, or [email protected], book trip will still be listed on the website. Also, check the bulletin board at before July 30.- We are fortunate to have access to the most beautiful www.wildernesscanoe.ca/bulletin.htm for private, non-WCA trips or part- campsite on the river. The Ottawa is big water and many of the rapids are ner requests.

NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 31 Where it is...

Ontario

.. .in this issue

1. 100 Days from the 14. The Tree 23. Drought Disaster 25. Letter from the Editor Rockies to the 15. Portrait Lake Pass Explained 26. Book Reviews Arctic Ocean 22. News Briefs 24. On Stoves 27. Products and Services 8. The Maisie 22. A Note ofThanks 25. Food for Paddlers 28. The Last Wilderness 29. WCA Outings

WCA Postal Address WCA Contacts http://www.wildernesscanoe.ca P.O. Box 91068 2901 Bayview Ave. Secretary Resource Editor Membership and Toronto, ON M2K 2Y6 Bill King Bob Henderson Computer Records 45 Hi Mount Drive 19 Lantern Lane Gary James BOARD OF DIRECTORS Toronto, ON M2K 1X3 Dundas, ON L9H 6N9 27 Canary Cresco George Drought (Chair) Aleksandar Gusev 416-223-4646 905-627-9772 North York, ON M2K 1Y9 43 Brodick Street 8 Valiant Road [email protected] [email protected] 416-512-6690 Hamilton, ON L8S 3E3 Etobicoke, ON [email protected] 905-528-0059 416-236-7079 WCA Outings Treasurer gdrought@wilderness [email protected] Bill Ness Howard Sayles Conservation bound.ca 194 Placentia Blvd. Toronto, ON Erhard Kraus Gillian Mason Toronto, ON M1S 4H4 416-921-5321 Scarborough, ON Michael Law Toronto, ON 416-321-3005 416-293-3755 B67 Ball Ave East, RR 3 416-752-9596 [email protected] Webmaster [email protected] Beaverton, ON LOK 1AO [email protected] Jeff Haymer (705) 426-1951 Toronto, ON [email protected] Martin Heppner 416-635-5801 Toronto, ON [email protected] Elsie Carr-Locke 416-465-1558 Toronto, ON mheppner@anchor 416-463-9019 securities.com [email protected]

Editorial Team: Elizabeth Sinclair, Editor-in-Chief Mike WeYrick, Associate Editor, Text Barb Young, Food Editor Bill Ness, Outings Editor Aleksandar Gusev, Illustrations Editor

32 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006