Spring 2006 Vol. 33 No. I Quarterly Journal of the Wilderness Canoe Association The Icy portage 100 DAYS FROM THE ROCKIES TO THE ARCTIC OCEAN Authors: Pat Maher, Phil Mullins and Anthony Berken Photos: Phil Mullins, Anthony Berkers and Margo Millette Overview ation, tourism, education anc:l/orsocio-cultural perspectives The Paddling the Big Sky expedition began as many expe- on physical education. The breadth of our experience was ditions do, from the banter, stories, daydreams and past trips equally varied; some of us had grown up canoeing and/or of a group of friends. Our 2,800-kilometre journey departed worked with international environmental education and in early May from Hinton, Alberta in the foothills of the adventure programs, whereas others were experiencing their Rocky Mountains and crossed prairie and boreal forest into first-ever extended canoe trip. The bridge in this diversity the barren lands. Seven people completed the 100-day trip was an overarching interest in the past, present, and future that also encompassed a university outdoor education pro- role of outdoor recreation and education as a mode of per- gram at the University of Alberta. The expedition ended in sonal, social, and environmental learning. This theme guided Kugluktuk, Nunavut in mid-August, where winter had the approach to planning and executing the journey. Our arrived on the shores of the Coronation Gulf. purpose was to explore and challenge how skills learned We were a varied group of athletes, guides, and teachers, through outdoor activities engage people in meaningful re- our educational backgrounds ranged from a first undergrad- lationships with their environment, and promote ecological uate degree to doctoral studies in the fields of outdoor recre- and social responsibility. After he leaves, an instructor will have to paddle a solo boat over the wide, slow sections of the Athabasca River, the prospect of which we are not too keen. May 30th, 2005 Wow, it's already been three weeks on the Athabasca River and so much has happened. We're now getting a bit of a late start after a wonderful evening of camaraderie with some of the "commu- nity" along the river (Zelman's lodge at Grand Rapids). So many great people are sharing with us their lives, their food, and their stories of the river. For a trip that many students probably ex- pected to be a wilderness, it sure has a lot of human presence. In fact, we've felt a very strong sense of community Pat cleaning fresh moose meat May 31st, 2005 The expedition really began during Point Lake, the headwaters of the We're now on the Grand Rapid portage the winter of 2003 and daydreams Coppermine River. This Canadian and it is very hot! During a month in about the expedition gave way to long Heritage River led us to Kugluktuk which we expected cold to be our great- hours of planning and preparation. where the river's fresh water mixes with est adversary, we have had over a week Food was dried, equipment procured, the salty Arctic Ocean. The full route of cloudless days and scorching heat. sponsorship arranged, and courses can be seen in the following map We discuss with Darlene Zelman our planned. For the first leg of the journey, (adapted from http://atlas.gc.ca). mutual amazement at how much water twelve students and three instructors As with all travel logs there are the Athabasca River carries and how paddled the Athabasca River to Fort countless stories waiting to be told. not a drop of it can be used to quench McMurray, Alberta. The students re- This is just a smattering. our thirst. The water is high in silt and turned home from there and three oth- thus difficult to filter and siphon and its ers met our trio for the second leg of May 9th, 2005 quality is also suspect, given the num- twenty-one days. Motivated by the Another extended expedition begins! ber of towns and amount of industry short northern summer, concerns over Our group consists of twelve students along the banks. Overall, this produces August weather, and a strong desire to and three instructors including a guest a difficulty in finding enough small complete the third leg around Great for the next three days, the Dean of the tributaries to keep the group hydrated. Slave Lake and reach the ocean, we al- Faculty of Physical Education and We've taken a rest day, camping in a tered the plan. From the original Recreation at the University of Alberta. large clearing at the top of the Grand Athabasca River/Lake Athabasca/Slave A unique part of this trip though are Rapid portage, completing some teach- River to Great Slave Lake route, we the students who are taking Spring ing requirements and also portaging, at found ourselves bumping along by Outdoor Camp during the first month our leisure, some lighter loads. truck from Fort Resolution to of our travel. After a four-hour drive Yellowknife. Here we replenished our from Edmonton to Hinton, we cross the June 3rd, 2005 food stocks and adjusted the team Athabasca River on a forestry bridge Well, we have a bit of a surprise today! membership in preparation for the final and drop down next to the river. Taking We paddled through a number of big- fourth, longest, and most difficult leg of 30 minutes to sort out gear, tie on water rapids where a few student boats the journey Beginning this fifty-day leg, throw bags, and make sure paddles and took on water. Folks were, in general, we left the docks of Yellowknife and PFDs fit, we say goodbye to our drivers hollering with delight. This white-water traveled slowly north against the cur- and hit the water. The students are environment is a welcome change from rent of the Yellowknife River, over the somewhat green but very enthusiastic. our weeks on a big, slow, muddy river. Canadian Shield, and into the Barren I think that it should be a great month We ran Boiler Rapids on river left, then Lands of the Arctic tundra. We lake- providing the water levels co-operate to the right, and back left. Rated as C-3, hopped and portaged heavy loads for and how nice it is to have the Dean it was probably C-2 at this high water nearly four weeks and finally crossed along because of his administrative in- level. We were also able to run Middle the height of land into Starvation Lake volvement in getting the program run- Rapids, rated C-4, on the left side for and down the Starvation River into ning. Also, he evens out our numbers. the first bit and then via a long ferry to 2 NASTAWGAN SPRING 2006 river right. Long Rapids was also rated laxation. Yesterday,we started at the site Yesterday we were tracked down by an- C-4 in the Canoe Alberta Reach Report, of an old store on the Athabasca River other expedition: a solo paddler from but again was probably C-2 when we and continued through the Fletcher Poland paddling from jasper, Alberta to ran it river right all the way down. After Channel and Embarrass River into the Tuktoyaktuk, North West Territories. a swamp on the rapid we ate lunch and beautiful low-lying Peace-Athabasca He had heard about us (as the larger everyone enjoyed the sunshine. Then delta. Once we reached Lake Athabasca, group with students) throughout his we continued on to Crooked Rapids, the delta seemed to spread out in all di- journey. He seems like a nice guy and is which is formed by a sharp right-hand rections and apart from the mass of keen to chat and paddle with us, at bend in the river combined with ledges Canadian Shield behind the lights of least through to the large rapids on the extending from the right (inside of the Fort Chip, the sky and land seemed to Slave River where we'll need to hire a bend). Running the rapid far left, we hit go on forever in all directions. From the shuttle and can split costs. a number of big waves. Centre-left map, we knew it was about a seven- probably would have been ideal, but kilometre crossing to Fort Chip and so June 18th, 2005 would have been difficult given the stu- given the calm winds and time (10:30 Yesterday,after another day wind bound dents' level of experience. The surprise p.m.) we felt it was a safe bet to head in Fort Chip we were able to depart. The of the day came at Rock Rapids where straight across. Getting to the beach at Riviere des Rochers and Revillon Coupe we could hear the water pouring over a just after 11:30 p.m. was a relief. The took us through to the Peace River which ledge, but could see nothing. A lime- weather had remained relatively calm about nine kilometers later became the stone ledge like many on this stretch, but feelings had existed amongst the Slave River (proper). Yesterday we forms this rapid, extending the width of group as to the decision to cross. In the camped at the confluence of these two the river with a narrow tongue in the end, today is very windy and it was re- after a monotonous day of big river travel centre. With instructors in the lead, we ally quite fortuitous that we did cross. with few campsites to be found. Tonight hit the tongue and held on for the ride.