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Hibridisasi Masakan Melayu: Kajian Kes Di Kuala Lumpur

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Hibridisasi Masakan Melayu: Kajian Kes Di Kuala Lumpur HIBRIDISASI MASAKAN MELAYU: KAJIAN KES DI KUALA LUMPUR ABD. RAZAK BIN AZIZ Malaya of AKADEMI PENGAJIAN MELAYU UniversityUNIVERSITI MALAYA KUALA LUMPUR 2018 HIBRIDISASI MASAKAN MELAYU: KAJIAN KES DI KUALA LUMPUR ABD. RAZAK BIN AZIZ Malaya of TESIS DISERAHKAN SEBAGAI MEMENUHI KEPERLUAN BAGI IJAZAH DOKTOR FALSAFAH UniversityAKADEMI PENGAJIAN MELAYU UNIVERSITI MALAYA KUALA LUMPUR 2018 UNIVERSITI MALAYA PERAKUAN KEASLIAN PENULISAN Nama: ABD. RAZAK BIN AZIZ No. Matrik: JHA080003 Nama Ijazah: Ijazah Doktor Falsafah Tajuk Kertas Projek/Laporan Penyelidikan/Disertasi/Tesis (“Hasil Kerja ini”): HIBRIDISASI MASAKAN MELAYU: KAJIAN KES DI KUALA LUMPUR Bidang Penyelidikan: SOSIO-BUDAYA MELAYU Saya dengan sesungguhnya dan sebenarnya mengaku bahawa: (1) Saya adalah satu-satunya pengarang/penulis Hasil Kerja ini; (2) Hasil Kerja ini adalah asli; (3) Apa-apa penggunaan mana-mana hasil kerja yang mengandungi hakcipta telah dilakukan secara urusan yang wajar dan bagi maksud yang dibenarkan dan apa- apa petikan, ekstrak, rujukan atau pengeluaran semula daripada atau kepada mana-mana hasil kerja yang mengandungi hakcipta telah dinyatakan dengan sejelasnya dan secukupnya dan satu pengiktirafanMalaya tajuk hasil kerja tersebut dan pengarang/penulisnya telah dilakukan di dalam Hasil Kerja ini; (4) Saya tidak mempunyai apa-apa pengetahuan sebenar atau patut semunasabahnya tahu bahawa penghasilanof Hasil Kerja ini melanggar suatu hakcipta hasil kerja yang lain; (5) Saya dengan ini menyerahkan kesemua dan tiap-tiap hak yang terkandung di dalam hakcipta Hasil Kerja ini kepada Universiti Malaya (“UM”) yang seterusnya mula dari sekarang adalah tuan punya kepada hakcipta di dalam Hasil Kerja ini dan apa-apa pengeluaran semula atau penggunaan dalam apa jua bentuk atau dengan apa juga cara sekalipun adalah dilarang tanpa terlebih dahulu mendapat kebenaran bertulis dari UM; (6) Saya sedar sepenuhnya sekiranya dalam masa penghasilan Hasil Kerja ini saya telah melanggar suatu hakcipta hasil kerja yang lain sama ada dengan niat atau Sebaliknya,, saya boleh dikenakan tindakan undang-undang atau apa-apa tindakan lain sebagaimana yang diputuskan oleh UM. UniversityTandatangan Calon Tarikh: Diperbuat dan sesungguhnya diakui di hadapan, Tandatangan Saksi Tarikh: Nama: Prof. Madya. Dr. Awang Azman bin Awang Pawi Jawatan: Pensyarah HIBRIDISASI MASAKAN MELAYU: KAJIAN KES DI KUALA LUMPUR ABSTRAK Budaya kulinari Melayu sentiasa dalam keadaan aktif dari segi innovasi dan tindak balas terhadap pengaruh elemen-elemen kulinari luar negara. Untuk memahami bagaimana cef- cef Melayu bertindak balas terhadap fenomena ini, kajian ini menganalisis berbagai-bagai aktiviti masakan di restoran-restoran terpilih. Kajian ini menggunakan dua kaedah, iaitu kaedah pemerhatian dan temu bual. Implikasi globalisasi melalui berbagai “scape” dianalisis bertujuan untuk meninjau ciri-ciri globalisasi, iaitu bagaimana ia mempengaruhi dan disesuaikan sebagai tindak balas terhadap trend pemakanan global. Satu permasalahan besar dalam masakan Melayu adalah ketiadaan konsep yang jelas dan kurang daya tarikan. Perkembangan ini menyebabkan cef-cef Melayu berusaha mencari penyelesaian terhadap isu ini. Amalan menyesuaikanMalaya makanan asing dengan makanan Melayu baik dari segi teknik mahupun penggayaan dalam kalangan cef-cef Melayu dilihat boleh mendatangkan masalah dari ofpenyelesaian. Setiap cef mempunyai minat yang mendalam terhadap masakan mereka. Sungguhpun begitu mereka terpaksa memilih antara minat dan keuntungan yang boleh dijana dari masakan tersebut. Justeru kajian ini menyarankan penggunaan kaedah “scape” untuk membina lanskap kulinari Melayu yang lengkap. Kerangka lanskap kulinari Melayu ini membolehkan analisis dibuat terhadap masa hadapan masakan Melayu dalam mengharungi era pemodenan. KataUniversity kunci: ethnoscapes, technoscapes, ideoscapes, mediascapes, finanscapes. Globalisasi, nouvelle cuisine. ii HIBRIDISASI MASAKAN MELAYU: KAJIAN KES DI KUALA LUMPUR ABSTRACT In this modern globalized world, Malay culinary culture is in constant innovative mode. The influx of external cultural elements are affecting its traditional gastronomic microcosm. The practice of adapting foreign food culture among the Malay chefs, using modern techniques and presentation, not only prove problematic, but also has the potential to destroy the local gastronomic heritage. This research, therefore, explores the implication of globalization through various “scape” and how Malay chefs have to adapt to the global food trend. To understand how the Malay chefs respond to these phenomena, this research will analyse the activities taking place in their kitchen. This research adopts an in-depth interview and observation data collection methods. This approach enables the researcher to signify the transformation at the macroMalaya level in term of modernization and globalization into micro practices of everyday culinary activities. Chefs are passionate about their culinary aesthetics, and at the sameof time they have to be concerned about the business profitability. This will dictate how these chefs decide on their culinary priorities. This study discovers that one prevalent problem with Malay food is the unclear concept and lack of customer appeal, particularly in a full-service restaurant environment. In response to these circumstances, the chefs tried to find ways of a addressing these challenges. The research concludes that the idea of using “scape” is a suitable tool to build a reliable Malay culinaryscape that will determine the future of Malay cuisine in the wave of Universitymodernization. Key words: ethnoscapes, technoscapes, ideoscapes, mediascapes, finanscapes. Globalization, nouvelle cuisine. iii PENGHARGAAN Bismillah Arrahman Arrahim, bersyukur ke hadrat Allah SWT kerana dengan izin dan limpah kurniaNYA penulis dapat melengkapkan kajian tesis ini. Sekalung penghargaan dan setinggi-tinggi terima kasih kepada Universiti Malaya kerana memberi peluang kepada saya untuk menjalankan kajian ini. Sejambak penghargaan kepada penyelia, iaitu Profesor Dr. Wan Kadir sebagai penyelia peringkat awal, Profesor Dr. Amri Marzali yang telah sudi mengambil tempat Profesor Dr. Wan Kadir yang telah bersara kerana dengan bimbingan dan tunjuk ajar mereka penulis dapat meneruskan kajian tesis ini. Penghargaan ikhlas juga ditujukan kepada Profesor Dato’ Yaakop Harun yang terlibat dalam membantu penulis dan begitu juga kepada Encik Hakimi. Sekalung penghargaan juga buat Profesor Madya Dr. Awang Azman dan Dr. Sjafri Sairin yang membantu penulis menghabiskan kajian tesis ini. Kepada rakan-rakan,Malaya budi anda tetap terpahat dalam ingatan. Kepada Isteri Zarina binti Sabdin dan anak-anak Muhammad Afiq, Muhammad Hanis, Abdul Hakim, Abdul Rahman danof Ahmad Kamil terima kasih, pengertian dan sokongan yang berterusan menjadi tonggak kejayaan ini. Kepada kakitangan pejabat ijazah tinggi Akademi Pengajian Melayu yang banyak membantu. Tidak lupa kepada kedua ibu bapa dan mertua serta keluarga yang telah mendoakan kejayaan ini. Sekalung penghargaan juga kepada pihak hotel-hotel dan restoran yang sudi memberi kerjasama. UniversityAbd. Razak bin Aziz Akademi Pengajian Melayu Universiti Malaya 2 Jun 2018 17 Ramadan 1439 iv ISI KANDUNGAN ABSTRAK ........................................................................................................................ ii ABSTRACT ..................................................................................................................... iii PENGHARGAAN ........................................................................................................... iv ISI KANDUNGAN ........................................................................................................... v SENARAI RAJAH ........................................................................................................... x SENARAI JADUAL ........................................................................................................ xi SENARAI SINGKATAN ............................................................................................... xii SENARAI GLOSARI .................................................................................................... xiii SENARAI LAMPIRAN ................................................................................................. xv BAB 1: PENGENALAN ................................................................Malaya................................. 1 1.1 Pendahuluan ................................................................................................................ 1 1.2 Pernyataan Masalah ................................of................................ .................................... 2 1.3 Objektif Kajian ............................................................................................................ 6 1.4 Kerangka Konseptual Perubahan Masakan Melayu ................................................... 8 1.5 Sorotan Karya.............................................................................................................. 8 1.6 Metodologi Kajian .................................................................................................... 20 1.6.1 Kaedah.. .......................................................................................................... 22 1.6.2 Pengumpulan data ........................................................................................... 24 University1.6.3 Deskripsi informan ................................ .........................................................
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