The Daily Telegraph Saturday 19 October 2019 *** 13 INTERNATIONAL

Raise a toast to the good life Locator on Barcelona’s Maresme coast requested

Zoe Dare Hall ventures further along from Catalonia’s capital and finds peace and charm among the vineyards rom the green hilltops of the family-run Alta Alella vineyard, the nearest winery to Bar- celona, the views stretch for miles across the rolling countryside F and coastline. In the distance, you can make out the distinc- tive sail shape of Barcelona’s beach- front W hotel and the city’s towers. Yet here, among the terraced hills of the Maresme coast, it feels like a different world altogether: peaceful, genteel and rejuvenating. British palates in particular have latched on to Alta Alella’s wines, known for their salty minerality that comes from being so close to the sea. “The UK is one of our biggest markets for wine tourism and exports,” says Valérie Veil- leux, the vineyard’s exuberant commu- nications manager, fresh from the local area’s biggest fiesta, the Festa de la Ver- ema (wine harvest festival), which takes place every September. A walk around Alella will show just how important wine is to this well- heeled town, with its historic mansions set on sprawling estates. Residents also talk of the many wine tastings and pic- nics in vineyards that pepper the year. But this is a place you come to for well- ness too, and some of those historic wine estates are now being turned into spa and cosmetic surgery retreats by Russian and Indian buyers. The Catalans are an active bunch in general, says Tom Maidment of Lucas Fox estate agency. “Sailing, tennis, golf, hiking in the Serralada de Marina natu- ral park, road cycling and mountain biking… at weekends, everyone’s in Lycra. And within an hour and 40 min- utes, you can be on the ski slopes of Masella or La Molina,” he says. Indeed, jump on a bike in Barcelona, follow the coastal path for 45 minutes or so and you reach the Maresme’s first town, Montgat, home to one of the ar- ea’s in-demand international schools, Hamelin Laie. The coast then stretches 37 miles north to where it meets Blanes on the Costa Brava. Towns such as Premià de Dalt, Ca- Wine brils, Cabrera de cOuntry Mar and Sant An- A villa in Allela dreu de Llavaneres – overlooking which have more in vineyards, main, common visually left and bottom, with small Tuscan or €4.7m (£4.1m) with Provençal towns Lucas Fox; Jane than classic Spanish Mitchell, far left costa architecture – may not roll off the tongues of most tourists to Spain. But they have long been popular second- home spots for wealthy Barcelona families and they are reporting high inter- est from overseas buyers too (mainly “You can live European, but with a smattering from ‘Estates in the hills have among working the US, Asia and Russia). outstanding views of the vineyards just 15 “They all have beautiful historic cen- minutes from a tres, churches, narrow streets and Mediterranean and major European plenty of bars and restaurants. Resi- city and minutes dential estates in the hills have out- Barcelona skyline’ from the Mediter- standing views of the Mediterranean ranean Sea, which Sea and Barcelona skyline,” says Sa- is a rare privilege,” mantha Brindle from Sotheby’s Inter- says Maidment. national Realty. “They are also all in the “The growth of top 20 for wealth per capita in Spain.” tech companies in Barcelona is attract- Sotheby’s Realty, was designed by Jo- The lack of mass tourism, she adds, ing a young, entrepreneurial demo- sep Lluís Sert, a disciple of Le Corbus- means these towns are also near un- graphic to the Maresme, either because ier. “He was one of Barcelona’s finest spoilt sandy beaches, with natural they can’t afford the city or they want rational architects and he, Picasso and dunes. “There are also numerous golf to live on the coast within commuting Dalí would party together,” says Brin- clubs, six marinas, infinite mountain distance.” At the top end of Alella’s mar- dle. Or there’s a house inspired by trails, and the region is known for its ket, he is selling a five-bedroom, tradi- Frank Lloyd Wright in Sant Andreu de amazing gastronomy too,” she adds. tional Catalan masia-style house, set Llavaneres, on sale for €1.95 million, Alella, however, is “by far” the most on five acres overlooking vineyards for also through Sotheby’s. popular town among overseas buyers, €4.7 million (£4.1 million). At the more In contrast, modern minimalist vil- says Maidment. He adds that 20 per affordable end, you can buy a three- las are being built for the foreign mar- cent of his international clients are bedroom house with use of a commu- ket, says Brindle, who is marketing a looking to relocate from abroad, an- nal pool, gardens and tennis court for new four-bedroom villa with sea views other fifth are buying a second home, €550,000. “The same budget would in Arenys de Mar for €795,000. and the rest are moving within the lo- get you a two-bedroom flat in central “It’s a region that offers everything,” cal area. Many begin with apartment Off the beaten track Barcelona,” adds Maidment. says Brindle. “Historically, the living in buzzy Barcelona, then move A villa in Llavaneres, below, €1.35m, and Part of the charm for foreign families Maresme was an area for weekend and to the Maresme when kids and the de- a Le Corbusier-inspired house, above, in the area is being able to blend in with summer homes. But increasingly, peo- sire for more space enter the frame. €1.1m, both with Sotheby’s Realty local life rather than form expat en- ple are buying to relocate here, with claves. “Overseas families tend to speak the commute to Barcelona and the in- Spanish or Catalan, or both, and inte- look seen readily along the Spanish farm Out ternational airport so easy. Or they are grate into local life easily, but they also coast. Elegant Premià de Dalt, with its A farmhouse with looking to the future, with a plan to re- have an international circle of friends. avenues of orange trees, is one of the sea views, above, tire here. It’s all about quality of life.” They sit somewhere between locals towns known for its casas indianas (In- €1.95m with And should you wish to drink to that, and expats,” says Alella resident Jane dian houses), the highly decorative Sotheby’s Realty you know where to go. Mitchell, 50, whose five-bedroom villa, mansions built by returning Catalans with sea views from her saltwater pool, in the 19th century after making their is on the market for €1.15 million fortune in South and Central America. through Lucas Fox, as she wants to “Many need full renovation, so the downsize to be nearer the beach and prices are good, and they suit those her children’s school. with a love of bringing back history,” “I love the outdoor life here – plenty says Brindle, who is marketing a five- of good walks in winter, the beach, wa- bedroom casa indiana in Premià de ter sports and chiringuitos [beach bars] Dalt for €1.69 million. And on the sea- in summer,” says Mitchell, who co-runs front in El Masnou, a popular com- the website mumabroad.com and has a muter town for Barcelona, Lucas Fox sideline making quilts to order (@ has on its books a 10-bedroom Modern- squarequilts on Instagram). “Alella is a ista mansion of this sort next to the small village so people get to know you beach, complete with ornate murals kicker if as a family. And I go to Barcelona a few and stained glass windows, for needed ch times a month for the cinemas, maybe €1.25 million. PLEASE DELETE for dinner or a networking event.” Famous architects have also made THIS BOX The Maresme’s architectural diver- their mark in the Maresme. A property sity is also striking for those used to the near the sea in Vilassar de Mar, on sale more homogenous whitewashed box for €1.1 million through Barcelona