CONTENTS

List of Maps vii

1 THE BEST OF & LOMBOK 1 The Best Unique Balinese The Best Activities for Kids 5 Experiences 2 The Best Resort Hotels 6 The Best Temples 2 The Best Value Accommodations 6 The Best Diving & 3 The Best Dining 7 The Best Beaches 4 The Best Spas 8

2 BALI IN DEPTH 9 Bali Today 9 EATING AT THE KAKI LIMA 23 BALI’S ROYAL REGENCY PAST 10 When to Go 24 Looking Back: Bali History 11 ONLINE TRAVELER’S TOOLBOX 27 Art & Crafts 15 Calendar of Events 27 BUYING TEXTILES 18 Lay of the Land 28 BALI’S CRAFT VILLAGES AT A GLANCE 19 Responsible Travel 29 Balinese Architecture 19 JOHN HARDY’S BALI 31 Eating & Drinking 21 3 BALI & L0MBOK REGIONS & SUGGESTED ITINERARIES 32 The Regions in Brief 32 BALI FOR FAMILIES 38 THE BEST OF BALI IN 1 WEEK 34 SUGGESTED LOMBOK ITINERARIES 39 THE BEST OF BALI IN 2 WEEKS 37

4 ACTIVECOPYRIGHTED TRIP PLANNER MATERIAL40 Organized Trips & Tours 40 ALTERNATIVE HEALTH & WELLNESS A TO Z 44 Activities A to Z 42

5 KUTA & LEGIAN 54 Essentials 54 Exploring Kuta & Legian 66 FAST FACTS: KUTA 55 Shopping 69 Where to Stay 58 Kuta & Legian Entertainment & Where to Eat 62 Nightlife 72

002_9781118096000-ftoc.indd2_9781118096000-ftoc.indd iiiiii 11/23/12/23/12 22:17:17 PMPM 6 SEMINYAK 75 Essentials 75 Shopping 90 FAST FACTS: SEMINYAK 78 Seminyak Entertainment & Where to Stay 78 Nightlife 95 Where to Eat 82 Canggu 96 THE BEST OF EAT STREET 88 Denpasar 99 Exploring Seminyak 89

7 SANUR & THE NUSA ISLANDS 101 Essentials 101 Sanur Entertainment & Nightlife 118 A BRIEF HISTORY OF TOURISM IN SANUR 104 Nusa Lembongan, Ceningan & FAST FACTS: SANUR 105 Penida 119 Where to Stay 105 FAST FACTS: NUSA LEMBONGAN 122 Where to Eat 109 WALKING FROM TAMARIND TO MUSHROOM BEACH 123 Exploring Sanur 113 NUSA CENINGAN 128 Shopping 117 FAST FACTS: NUSA PENIDA 129

8 THE BUKIT PENINSULA 133 Jimbaran Bay 133 THE NUSA DUA SEAWEED FARMERS 161 FAST FACTS: JIMBARAN BAY 136 BALINESE DANCE PERFORMANCES ON THE BUKIT PENINSULA 162 Uluwatu 145 ASHES TO ASHES, DUST TO DUST: PECATU INDAH DEVELOPMENT & THE NEW CREMATION 163 KUTA 149 Tanjung Benoa 164 LUXURY VILLAS IN ULUWATU 151 FAST FACTS: TANJUNG BENOA 164 Nusa Dua 153 FAST FACTS: NUSA DUA 154

9 UBUD 168 ESSENTIALS 169 LEARNING TO LOVE THE EARTH 194 FAST FACTS: UBUD 172 Around Ubud 195 Where to Stay 172 Shopping: Island of the Goods 197 Where to Eat 179 DANCE & CULTURAL PERFORMANCES 200 CAFES, COFFEE & TEA 182 Ubud Entertainment & Exploring Ubud 186 Nightlife 202

10 CENTRAL MOUNTAINS 203 Essentials 203 Bedugul & Danau Bratan, Buyan & Danau Batur 204 Tamblingan 212 A VIEW OF DANAU BATUR & Munduk 215 PENELOKAN 206 Gunung Batukaru 217

002_9781118096000-ftoc.indd2_9781118096000-ftoc.indd iviv 11/23/12/23/12 2:172:17 PMPM 11 EAST BALI 221 Exploring East Bali 221 FAST FACTS: PADANGBAI 233 FAST FACTS: EAST BALI 224 Manggis 235 Klungkung (Semarapura) 225 FESTIVALS IN & AROUND TENGANAN 236 DINING & BREAKING RECORDS IN KARANG- Candidasa 238 SEM REGENCY 226 FAST FACTS: CANDIDASA 238 227 The Sidemen Valley Amlapura 241 Bangli & Gunung Agung 229 FAST FACTS: AMLAPURA 241 FAST FACTS: BANGLI 229 Amed 244 233 Padangbai 247

12 NORTH BALI 250 Tembok, Sembirenteng & Lovina 257 Tejakula 250 FAST FACTS: LOVINA 258 Air Sanih & Surrounding Pemuteran 263 Villages 254 FAST FACTS: PEMUTERAN 264 Singaraja 255 PEMUTERAN’S BIOROCK PROJECT 265 FAST FACTS: SINGARAJA 256

13 WEST BALI 268 Essentials 268 Negara & Around 277 FAST FACTS: WEST BALI 268 Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Tabanan 269 Bali National Park) 279 Tabanan to Negara 274

14 LOMBOK 283 Lombok in Depth 283 Kuta & the South Coast 308 BEST LOMBOK EXPERIENCES 284 SURFING ON LOMBOK’S SOUTHERN PENINSULA: EKAS BAY 309 Getting There & Getting Around 287 BAU NYALE FESTIVAL 310 FAST FACTS: LOMBOK 292 Central Lombok 312 West Lombok 293 North Lombok 313 SPECIALIZED LOMBOK TOURS 294 TIPS FOR TREKKING GUNUNG RINJANI 318 ISLAND OF 1,000 MOSQUES 296 East Lombok 319 Senggigi 298 CULTURAL RICHES & ANCIENT TRADITIONS IN EAST LOMBOK 321 The Southwest Coast & Islands 305 LOMBOK’S (& THE WORLD’S?) GREATEST WAVE 306

002_9781118096000-ftoc.indd2_9781118096000-ftoc.indd v 11/23/12/23/12 2:172:17 PMPM 15 THE 323 Getting to, Between & Around the THE FIVE BEST DIVE SPOTS ON THE Gilis 324 GILIS 336 FAST FACTS: THE GILI ISLANDS 327 Gili Air 339 Gili Trawangan 328 FAST FACTS: GILI AIR 340 FAST FACTS: GILI TRAWANGAN 328 Gili Meno 343 BIKING & SNORKELING TOUR: GILI FAST FACTS: GILI MENO 343 TRAWANGAN 334

16 PLANNING YOUR TRIP TO BALI 346 Getting There 346 GETTING YOUR MONEY’S WORTH WHEN CHANGING CURRENCY 352 Getting Around 346 Health 353 Tips on Hotels 348 FAST FACTS 355 Money & Costs 351

17 BASIC INDONESIAN 362 Basic Grammar 362 Essential Words & Phrases 362

Index 367 Accommodations Index 372 Restaurant Index 373

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Suggested Bali & Lombok Itineraries35 Danau Batur207 Kuta56 East Bali222 Seminyak76 North Bali252 Sanur102 West Bali271 Nusa Lembongan, Nusa Ceningan & Taman Nasional Bali Barat & Nusa Penida121 Gilimanuk281 The Bukit Peninsula134 Lombok288 Nusa Dua & Tanjung Benoa155 The Gili Islands325 Ubud170 Biking & Snorkeling Tour: Central Mountains205 Gili Trawangan335

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