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ANTOLOGIJA SRPSKIH VINARIJA Godina 2019

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ANTOLOGIJA SRPSKIH VINARIJA Godina 2019 ANTOLOGIJA SRPSKIH VINARIJA Godina 2019. ANTHOLOGY OF SERBIAN WINERIES Year 2019 ANTOLOGIJA ANTHOLOGY SRPSKIH OF SERBIAN VINARIJA WINERIES Specijalna publikacija magazina Wine Style Special publication of the Wine Style magazine Prvo izdanje, 2019. godina First edition, 2019 Urednik / Editor Fotografije / Photography Izdavač / Publisher Aleksandar Duković Vladimir Miloradović SPECIAL PRESS d.o.o. Beograd Dositejeva 13, 11000 Beograd/Belgrade Autori tekstova / Authors Mape / Maps Tel/fax: +381 11 405 92 53 Aleksandar Duković Tatjana Antić e-mail: [email protected] Vuk Tripković www.winestyle.rs Dizajn / Design Opisi vina / Wine descriptions BlackBox Štampa / Print Aleksandar Duković Rotografika, Subotica Lektor / Lector Stručni konsultant / Wine consultant Biljana Branić-Latinović Tiraž / Copies Dr Saša Matijašević, 2.500 profesor vinogradarstva Prevod / Translation Prof. Sasa Matijasevic, PhD, Milena Ankić Naslovna strana / Cover page the professor of Viticulture Sandra Vasiljević Podrum Radovanović ©SPECIAL PRESS, Beograd, 2019. ©SPECIAL PRESS, Belgrade, 2019 Sadržaj ove knjige, u delovima ili u celosti, Contents of this book, in parts or as a whole, ne sme se koristiti bez odobrenja izdavača cannot be used without publisher’s authorization PODNOŽJE VRŠAČKOG BREGA3 Sadržaj / Contents 6 Uvod / Introduction Palić 8 Istorijat / History 38 Vinarija Zvonko Bogdan 12 Geografija, topografija i zemljište / 42 Tonković Geography, topography and soil 14 Klima / Climate Fruška gora - Srem 16 Vinogradarstvo / Viticulture 48 Kovačević 18 Sorte grožđa / Grape varieties 52 Bikicki 26 Proizvodnja vina / Winemaking 56 Atelje vina Šapat 30 Vinski turizam / Wine tourism 60 Belo Brdo 32 Vinska scena / Wine scene 64 Vinarija IN 34 Regioni / Regions 68 Imperator 72 Đurđić 76 Kiš 80 Do kraja sveta 84 Trivanović 88 Vista Hill Banat 94 Selecta Smederevo - Beograd 100 Janko 4 Šumadija Župa 106 Aleksandrović 194 Ivanović 110 Veličković 198 Braća Rajković 114 Zmajevac 202 Spasić 118 PIK Oplenac 206 Vino Budimir 122 Vladimir 210 Milosavljević 126 Radovanović 130 Despotika Južna Srbija 134 Eden Southern Serbia 216 Aleksić Zapadna Srbija 220 Doja Western Serbia 140 Pusula Kosovo Pomoravlje Hercegovina 146 Cilić 230 Podrumi manastira Tvrdoš 150 Temet 234 Podrumi Vukoje 1982 154 Lastar 238 Anđelić 158 Rubin 162 Virtus Sveta Gora - Atos 244 Vinarija manastira Hilandar Istočna Srbija Eastern Serbia 168 Matalj 172 Radulović 176 Tana 180 Raj 184 Tri oraha 188 Izba Jovanović 5 Uvod Introduction srp – Nastavljajući viševekovnu tradiciju, koja je bila prilično eng – Following a centuries-old tradition, which was rather devastirana tokom druge polovine XX veka, srpsko vinarstvo devastated during the second half of the 20th century, Serbian proživljava renesansu i sve sigurnije korača kroz modernu winemaking is undergoing a renaissance and more confidently vinsku eru. U Srbiji, maloj zemlji na jugoistoku Evrope, danas moving into the modern wine era. In Serbia, a small country živi oko 7,5 miliona ljudi, od kojih je oko dve hiljade svoj život in southeast Europe, there are about 7.5 million residents, out posvetilo vinu. Gostoprimljiv narod burnog temperamenta of which about two thousand have dedicated their lives to nekako i zahteva vino, pa noćni život, po kojem je Srbija i wine. Wine is somehow logical for the hospitable people with poznata širom sveta, u velikoj meri podrazumeva i vino. S dynamic personality, and the nightlife in Serbia, well-known all obzirom na trenutni trend, ovaj broj će u budućnosti sigurno over the world, is associated with wine as well. Taking into ac- biti daleko veći, na radost takođe sve brojnijih ljubitelja vina. count the current trend, the number will certainly significantly Vinska kultura i vinski biznis u Srbiji već odavno zauzimaju rise in the future to the delight of ever-increasing number of značajno mesto, a vino se uvuklo u sve društvene pore; ono je wine lovers. Wine culture and wine business in Serbia have sad neodvojiv deo kulturnog i javnog života, lifestyle proizvod, been playing a significant part for a long time, and wine has nezaobilazna karika u lancu turističke ponude... Što se tiče managed to creep steadily into the entire society; it is now globalnog vinskog tržišta, srpska vina nisu više toliko egzo- an intrinsic part of cultural and public life, a lifestyle product, tična i sve je više svetskih metropola u kojima ih ima, a važne an indispensable link in the tourism supply chain... As for the nagrade sa najznačajnijih ocenjivanja širom sveta postale su global wine market, Serbian wines are no longer exotic and već uobičajene. they are more and more available in the world’s largest cities, so receiving important rewards in the most significant global U ovoj publikaciji, koja je rezultat jednogodisnjeg putešestvija ratings have become commonplace. tokom kojeg su posećivane vinarije i vođeni brojni intervjui sa vinarima, kroz više od 300 ekskluzivnih fotografija i brojne In this publication, as a result of a one-year journey when a large zanimljive priče predstavljamo ono što u najboljem svetlu number of wineries were visited and many interviews carried ilustruje današnju, modernu epohu srpskog vinarstva. out with the winemakers, with more than 300 exclusive photos and numerous interesting stories, we present the things that best illustrate the modern era of Serbian winemaking. 6 7 Istorijat srp – Tradicija srpskog vinarstva počinje u III veku n.e, u doba starih Rimljana, koji su ovde doneli kulturu gajenja vinove loze i proizvodnje vina; imperator Marko Aurelije Prob osnovao je prve vinograde na Fruškoj gori u Vojvodini i Zlatnom brdu kod Smedereva u centralnoj Srbiji. Do danas su sačuvani brojni do- kazi koji svedoče o dugom i bogatom srpskom vinskom istori- jatu − pisani dokumenti, iskopane amfore... Recimo, Stefan Ne- manja je specijalnom poveljom iz XII veka zadužio nekoliko sela da nastave da snabdevaju vinom njegovu zaostavštinu mana- stir Studenica, car Dušan je u XIV veku sastavio prvu rejonizaciju vinograda i izgradio 25 kilometara dug vinovod na Kosovu kojim se vino transportovalo do njegovih podruma, Knez Lazar imao je u to doba svoje vinograde u Župi; postoje brojni dokumenti koji svedoče da su Francuzi sredinom XIX veka, u vreme filok- sere koja je skoro potpuno uništila njihove vinograde, kupovali grožđe u Negotinskoj krajini, u kojoj i danas postoje male vina- rije, čuvene Rajačke Pimnice; sremskokarlovački bermet bio je jedno od glavnih vina na bečkom dvoru u vreme Austrougarske monarhije, a takođe je bio i na vinskoj listi na Titaniku. Vino je bilo nezaobilazan deo života i srpske aristokratije, što potvrđu- je podatak da je po nalogu kralja Aleksandra I Karađorđevića 1931. godine na Oplencu izgrađena vinarija Kraljev podrum, koja je nakon višegodišnje pauze danas ponovo u funkciji i čuva jednu od najstarijih kolekcija vina na Balkanu. Početak organizovane proizvodnje vina obeležilo je osnivanje jedne od prvih vinogradarsko-vinarskih zadruga, Venčačke, u 8 History eng – The Serbian winemaking tradition begins in the 3rd cen- tury AD, in the time of the ancient Romans, who brought here the culture of growing grapevine and wine production; Marcus Aurelius Probus planted the first vineyards in Fruska Gora, in Vojvodina and Zlatno Brdo near Smederevo in Central Serbia. Until today, abundant evidence has been preserved, testifying to the long and rich Serbian history of wine-making - written documents, excavated amphorae ... For example, in the 14th century, the Emperor Dusan established the first regional dis- tribution of vineyards and built a 25 km long “wine pipeline” in Kosovo that transported wine to his wine cellars. At that time Prince Lazar had the vineyards in Zupa; Stefan Nemanja, by a special charter from the 12th century, charged several villages with continuing to supply his endowment Studenica monas- tery with wine; there are numerous documents showing that the French, during the phylloxera which completely destroyed their vineyards, bought grapes from the Negotin region where there are still today small wineries, well-known Rajacke Pim- nice; Bermet from Sremski Karlovci was one of the main wines in the court of Vienna during the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, and was also on the wine list on the Titanic. Wine was an in- dispensable part of life of Serbian aristocracy, confirmed by the fact that in 1931 the winery Kraljev Podrum (English: The King’s Wine Cellar) was built in Oplenac by the order of the King Alexander I Karadjordjevic. After several years’ break it now operates again and preserves one of the oldest wine col- lections in the Balkans. KRALJEVA VINARIJA, OPLENAC 9 selu Banja kod Aranđelovca 1903. godine. Tada započinje ogro- man napredak u svakom smislu – uzgoj grožđa postaje kontro- lisaniji, radi se precizna evidencija površine vinograda i količine proizvedenih vina, osnivaju se asocijacije kooperanata, mnogi vinari odlaze na školovanje u ugledne institute širom Evrope, uglavnom u Francusku, i primenjuju nova znanja i tehnologije po povratku u Srbiju. Kvalitet vina dramatično se popravlja, sve više vina se izvozi širom Evrope, a zasadi i proizvodnja uvećava- ju se svake godine. Jedan austrijski novinar pisao je 1933. godi- ne u bečkim novinama Die Wiener Tag o Župi kao o modernom vinskom centru, rekavši da tu postoji 4.000 hektara vinograda sa 30 miliona čokota, kao i da ima oko 20 moderno opremljenih vinarija koje veliki deo količina svojih vina izvoze širom Evrope. Vinogradarstvom i proizvodnjom vina tada su se uglavnom ba- vili seljaci na svojim malim posedima,
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