ANTOLOGIJA SRPSKIH VINARIJA Godina 2019

ANTOLOGIJA SRPSKIH VINARIJA Godina 2019.

ANTHOLOGY OF SERBIAN WINERIES Year 2019 ANTOLOGIJA ANTHOLOGY SRPSKIH OF SERBIAN VINARIJA WINERIES

Specijalna publikacija magazina Wine Style Special publication of the Wine Style magazine Prvo izdanje, 2019. godina First edition, 2019

Urednik / Editor Fotografije / Photography Izdavač / Publisher Aleksandar Duković Vladimir Miloradović SPECIAL PRESS d.o.o. Beograd Dositejeva 13, 11000 Beograd/Belgrade Autori tekstova / Authors Mape / Maps Tel/fax: +381 11 405 92 53 Aleksandar Duković Tatjana Antić e-mail: [email protected] Vuk Tripković www.winestyle.rs Dizajn / Design Opisi vina / Wine descriptions BlackBox Štampa / Print Aleksandar Duković Rotografika, Subotica Lektor / Lector Stručni konsultant / Wine consultant Biljana Branić-Latinović Tiraž / Copies Dr Saša Matijašević, 2.500 profesor vinogradarstva Prevod / Translation Prof. Sasa Matijasevic, PhD, Milena Ankić Naslovna strana / Cover page the professor of Viticulture Sandra Vasiljević Podrum Radovanović

©SPECIAL PRESS, Beograd, 2019. ©SPECIAL PRESS, Belgrade, 2019 Sadržaj ove knjige, u delovima ili u celosti, Contents of this book, in parts or as a whole, ne sme se koristiti bez odobrenja izdavača cannot be used without publisher’s authorization PODNOŽJE VRŠAČKOG BREGA3 Sadržaj / Contents

6 Uvod / Introduction Palić 8 Istorijat / History 38 Vinarija Zvonko Bogdan 12 Geografija, topografija i zemljište / 42 Tonković Geography, topography and soil 14 Klima / Climate Fruška gora - Srem 16 Vinogradarstvo / Viticulture 48 Kovačević 18 Sorte grožđa / Grape varieties 52 Bikicki 26 Proizvodnja vina / Winemaking 56 Atelje vina Šapat 30 Vinski turizam / Wine tourism 60 Belo Brdo 32 Vinska scena / Wine scene 64 Vinarija IN 34 Regioni / Regions 68 Imperator 72 Đurđić 76 Kiš 80 Do kraja sveta 84 Trivanović 88 Vista Hill Banat 94 Selecta Smederevo - Beograd 100 Janko

4 Šumadija Župa 106 Aleksandrović 194 Ivanović 110 Veličković 198 Braća Rajković 114 Zmajevac 202 Spasić 118 PIK Oplenac 206 Vino Budimir 122 Vladimir 210 Milosavljević 126 Radovanović 130 Despotika Južna Srbija 134 Eden Southern Serbia 216 Aleksić Zapadna Srbija 220 Doja Western Serbia 140 Pusula Kosovo Pomoravlje Hercegovina 146 Cilić 230 Podrumi manastira Tvrdoš 150 Temet 234 Podrumi Vukoje 1982 154 Lastar 238 Anđelić 158 Rubin 162 Virtus Sveta Gora - Atos 244 Vinarija manastira Hilandar Istočna Srbija Eastern Serbia 168 Matalj 172 Radulović 176 Tana 180 Raj 184 Tri oraha 188 Izba Jovanović

5 Uvod Introduction

srp – Nastavljajući viševekovnu tradiciju, koja je bila prilično eng – Following a centuries-old tradition, which was rather devastirana tokom druge polovine XX veka, srpsko vinarstvo devastated during the second half of the 20th century, Serbian proživljava renesansu i sve sigurnije korača kroz modernu winemaking is undergoing a renaissance and more confidently vinsku eru. U Srbiji, maloj zemlji na jugoistoku Evrope, danas moving into the modern wine era. In Serbia, a small country živi oko 7,5 miliona ljudi, od kojih je oko dve hiljade svoj život in southeast Europe, there are about 7.5 million residents, out posvetilo vinu. Gostoprimljiv narod burnog temperamenta of which about two thousand have dedicated their lives to nekako i zahteva vino, pa noćni život, po kojem je Srbija i wine. Wine is somehow logical for the hospitable people with poznata širom sveta, u velikoj meri podrazumeva i vino. S dynamic personality, and the nightlife in Serbia, well-known all obzirom na trenutni trend, ovaj broj će u budućnosti sigurno over the world, is associated with wine as well. Taking into ac- biti daleko veći, na radost takođe sve brojnijih ljubitelja vina. count the current trend, the number will certainly significantly Vinska kultura i vinski biznis u Srbiji već odavno zauzimaju rise in the future to the delight of ever-increasing number of značajno mesto, a vino se uvuklo u sve društvene pore; ono je wine lovers. Wine culture and wine business in Serbia have sad neodvojiv deo kulturnog i javnog života, lifestyle proizvod, been playing a significant part for a long time, and wine has nezaobilazna karika u lancu turističke ponude... Što se tiče managed to creep steadily into the entire society; it is now globalnog vinskog tržišta, srpska vina nisu više toliko egzo- an intrinsic part of cultural and public life, a lifestyle product, tična i sve je više svetskih metropola u kojima ih ima, a važne an indispensable link in the tourism supply chain... As for the nagrade sa najznačajnijih ocenjivanja širom sveta postale su global wine market, Serbian wines are no longer exotic and već uobičajene. they are more and more available in the world’s largest cities, so receiving important rewards in the most significant global U ovoj publikaciji, koja je rezultat jednogodisnjeg putešestvija ratings have become commonplace. tokom kojeg su posećivane vinarije i vođeni brojni intervjui sa vinarima, kroz više od 300 ekskluzivnih fotografija i brojne In this publication, as a result of a one-year journey when a large zanimljive priče predstavljamo ono što u najboljem svetlu number of wineries were visited and many interviews carried ilustruje današnju, modernu epohu srpskog vinarstva. out with the winemakers, with more than 300 exclusive photos and numerous interesting stories, we present the things that best illustrate the modern era of Serbian winemaking.

6 7 Istorijat

srp – Tradicija srpskog vinarstva počinje u III veku n.e, u doba starih Rimljana, koji su ovde doneli kulturu gajenja vinove loze i proizvodnje vina; imperator Marko Aurelije Prob osnovao je prve vinograde na Fruškoj gori u Vojvodini i Zlatnom brdu kod Smedereva u centralnoj Srbiji. Do danas su sačuvani brojni do- kazi koji svedoče o dugom i bogatom srpskom vinskom istori- jatu − pisani dokumenti, iskopane amfore... Recimo, Stefan Ne- manja je specijalnom poveljom iz XII veka zadužio nekoliko sela da nastave da snabdevaju vinom njegovu zaostavštinu mana- stir Studenica, car Dušan je u XIV veku sastavio prvu rejonizaciju vinograda i izgradio 25 kilometara dug vinovod na Kosovu kojim se vino transportovalo do njegovih podruma, Knez Lazar imao je u to doba svoje vinograde u Župi; postoje brojni dokumenti koji svedoče da su Francuzi sredinom XIX veka, u vreme filok- sere koja je skoro potpuno uništila njihove vinograde, kupovali grožđe u Negotinskoj krajini, u kojoj i danas postoje male vinarije, čuvene Rajačke Pimnice; sremskokarlovački bermet bio je jedno od glavnih vina na bečkom dvoru u vreme Austrougarske monarhije, a takođe je bio i na vinskoj listi na Titaniku. Vino je bilo nezaobilazan deo života i srpske aristokratije, što potvrđu- je podatak da je po nalogu kralja Aleksandra I Karađorđevića 1931. godine na Oplencu izgrađena vinarija Kraljev podrum, koja je nakon višegodišnje pauze danas ponovo u funkciji i čuva jednu od najstarijih kolekcija vina na Balkanu.

Početak organizovane proizvodnje vina obeležilo je osnivanje jedne od prvih vinogradarsko-vinarskih zadruga, Venčačke, u

8 History

eng – The Serbian winemaking tradition begins in the 3rd century AD, in the time of the ancient Romans, who brought here the culture of growing grapevine and wine production; Marcus Aurelius Probus planted the first vineyards in Fruska Gora, in Vojvodina and Zlatno Brdo near Smederevo in Central Serbia. Until today, abundant evidence has been preserved, testifying to the long and rich Serbian history of wine-making - written documents, excavated amphorae ... For example, in the 14th century, the Emperor Dusan established the first regional dis- tribution of vineyards and built a 25 km long “wine pipeline” in Kosovo that transported wine to his wine cellars. At that time Prince Lazar had the vineyards in Zupa; Stefan Nemanja, by a special charter from the 12th century, charged several villages with continuing to supply his endowment Studenica monas- tery with wine; there are numerous documents showing that the French, during the phylloxera which completely destroyed their vineyards, bought grapes from the Negotin region where there are still today small wineries, well-known Rajacke Pim- nice; Bermet from Sremski Karlovci was one of the main wines in the court of Vienna during the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy, and was also on the wine list on the Titanic. Wine was an indispensable part of life of Serbian aristocracy, confirmed by the fact that in 1931 the winery Kraljev Podrum (English: The King’s Wine Cellar) was built in Oplenac by the order of the King Alexander I Karadjordjevic. After several years’ break it now operates again and preserves one of the oldest wine col- lections in the Balkans. KRALJEVA VINARIJA, OPLENAC

9 selu Banja kod Aranđelovca 1903. godine. Tada započinje ogro- man napredak u svakom smislu – uzgoj grožđa postaje kontro- lisaniji, radi se precizna evidencija površine vinograda i količine proizvedenih vina, osnivaju se asocijacije kooperanata, mnogi vinari odlaze na školovanje u ugledne institute širom Evrope, uglavnom u Francusku, i primenjuju nova znanja i tehnologije po povratku u Srbiju. Kvalitet vina dramatično se popravlja, sve više vina se izvozi širom Evrope, a zasadi i proizvodnja uvećava- ju se svake godine. Jedan austrijski novinar pisao je 1933. godine u bečkim novinama Die Wiener Tag o Župi kao o modernom vinskom centru, rekavši da tu postoji 4.000 hektara vinograda sa 30 miliona čokota, kao i da ima oko 20 moderno opremljenih vinarija koje veliki deo količina svojih vina izvoze širom Evrope. Vinogradarstvom i proizvodnjom vina tada su se uglavnom ba- vili seljaci na svojim malim posedima, podrazumevalo se imati vinograd gdegod je to bilo moguće.

Taj intenzivan vinski život prekinut je posle Drugog svetskog rata, kada je državni režim preuzeo kontrolu nad proizvodnjom vina i potpuno je reorganizovao, sistemski forsirajući Proizvodnja i tržište vina u Srbiji danas imaju vrlo jasnu kontu- isključivo kvantitet i potpuno zanemarujući kvalitet vina. Vi- ru, a potencijala za još veći progres u svim aspektima i te kako nogradi su ukrupnjavani i većim delom stavljeni pod kontrolu ima. države, kao i proizvodnja, koja je bila zasnovana na jeftinim vinima. Poslednjih godina Srbija prolazi kroz svoju drugu vinsku revolu- ciju, u potrazi za jedinstvenim identitetom, pa se okreće autoh- tonim sortama i onima koje to uistinu nisu, ali se mogu smatrati Moderna era lokalnim jer su vekovima prisutne na ovom prostoru. Dostignut je onaj standardan nivo proizvodnje kvalitetnih vina od interna- Sistem masovne produkcije bio je aktuelan sve do 1992. go- cionalnih sorti, pa je sve više vinara koji počinju da grade neki dine, kada se desila revolucija srpskog vinarstva. Zakon je svoj, osoben stil, tražeći autentičnost a u skladu sa modernim dozvolio osnivanje malih privatnih podruma vina, a prva dva, globalnim trendovima. Sve je više i posebnih vina, naročito iz Aleksandrović i Radovanović, započeli su modernu eru proi- dobrih godina u magnum bocama u ograničenim serijama sa zvodnjom premijum vina u ograničenim količinama. Otada do visokom cenom. danas, knjiga moderne ere srpskog vinarstva dobija sve više stranica, a nema sumnje da će ih u budućnosti biti još više.

10 The beginning of organized wine production was marked by the founding one of the first wine-making cooperative, Vencacka, in the village of Banja near Arandjelovac in 1903. Remarkable im- provement started to take place - grape growing became more controlled; accurate records of the areas of vineyards and the amount of wine production were carried out; cooperative asso- ciations were established; many winemakers went to renowned institutes across Europe to get more educated, mainly to France, and afterwards started applying the acquired knowledge and new technologies back in Serbia. Wine quality was improving dramati- cally; more wines were being exported throughout Europe, planta- tions and production were increasing year in year out. An Austrian journalist wrote in the Viennese newspaper Die Wiener Tag in 1933 about Zupa as a modern wine center, saying that there were 4,000 hectares of vineyards with 30 million vines, and about 20 modern- ly equipped wineries that exported a large amount of the wines across Europe. Viticulture and wine production were then mostly managed by the villagers on their small estates. At that time it was VINARIJA ZMAJEVAC expected to have a vineyard wherever possible. modern era of Serbian winemaking has been getting additional The intense wine life ceased after the Second World War, when pages, and there is no doubt that there will be even more in the the state regime took control of the wine production and com- future. Nowadays, wine production and wine markets in Serbia pletely reorganized it, systematically focusing only on quantity have a perfectly clear contour, and there is great potential for and completely ignoring the quality of the wine. Vineyards were much bigger progress in all aspects. enlarged and mostly controlled by the state, as it was the case with the wine production which was based on chap wines. Over recent years, Serbia has been experiencing its second wine revolution, pursuing the unique identity, and turning to indigenous varieties and those that are not really such; however, they can be The modern era considered local since they have been present in the region for centuries. When certain level of high-quality wine production from Mass production was practiced until 1992, when the Serbian international varieties was reached, more winemakers have begun winemaking revolution occurred. The law allowed the estab- forming their own, distinctive style. They are looking for the au- lishment of small private wine cellars, and the first two, Aleksan- thenticity, at the same time following modern global trends. There drovic and Radovanovic, began the modern era by producing is increasing number of special wines in magnum bottles, especial- premium wines in limited quantities. Up to now, the book of the ly from the good years in limited editions at high price.

11 Geografija, topografija i zemljište

srp – Srbija se nalazi između 30 i 50 stepeni geografske širine na severnoj hemisferi, u jugoistočnom delu Evrope. U geografskom smislu, podeljena je na dva dela – severno od glavnog grada Beograda je Vojvodina, dok veći, južni deo zemlje zauzima centralna Srbija. Ove dve celine prilično se razilku- ju u smislu topografije i zemljišta.

Vojvodina je prostrana, plodna ravnica koja se nalazi na teritoriji nekadaš- njeg Panonskog mora. U centralno-južnom delu uzdiže se planina Fruška gora, nedaleko od Novog Sada, dok se brežuljci Deliblatske peščare prostiru na jugoistoku, u okolini Vršca. U ravničarskim predelima nadmorska visina je blizu nivoa mora, dok je na obroncima Fruške gore vinogradarski predeo na visini od 100 do 300 metara. Zemljište u Vojvodini je u opštem smislu hladnije i zbijenije i to u predelu Fruške gore i predelu ravnog Srema i Vršca, bogato je smonicom i ilovačom, a vrlo su zastupljeni i različiti tipovi černo- zema (rigosoil). Ostatak Vojvodine, njen severni deo i Deliblatsku peščaru u južnom Banatu, karakteriše lakše, peskovito zemljište. Generalno, zemljište u Vojvodini pogodnije je za uzgoj belih sorti.

Centralna Srbija je dosta brdovitija, sa nekoliko visokih planina, a vinogradarske oblasti uglavnom se nalaze u kotlinama i na obroncima brežuljaka, sa proseč- nom nadmorskom visinom od 150 do 350 metara. Zemljište varira od regije do regije, ali generalno može da se okarakteriše kao kombinovano, umereno plodno i rastresito, toplije nego u Vojvodini, uz umeren do visok sadržaj gline i umeren sadržaj krečnjaka. Takođe, u pojedinim oblastima ima dosta škriljca i

kamena, a uopšteno posmatrano, crne sorte daju bolje rezultate. VINARIJA DOJA

12 G e o g ra p hy, topography and soil eng – Serbia lies between 30 and 50° N, in southeastern Europe. Geograph- ically, it is divided into two parts - north of the capital Belgrade is Vojvodi- na, while a larger, southern part of the country is the Central Serbia. These two parts are entirely different in terms of topography and soil.

Vojvodina is a vast, fertile plain located on the territory of the former Pannonian Sea. In the central-southern part is the mountain Fruska Gora, in the vicinity of Novi Sad, while the hills of Deliblatska Pescara stretch in the southeast, near Vrsac. In the lowlands, the altitude is close to the sea level, while on the slopes of Fruska Gora, the winegrowing area is ranging from 100 to 300 meters high. The soil in Vojvodina is mainly cooler and more compact, in the area of Fruska Gora and flat Srem and Vrsac; it is rich in juniper and loam with also different types of chernozems. The rest of Vojvodina, its northern part and Deliblatska Pescara in southern Banat, is characterized by lighter, sandy soil. Gen- erally speaking, the soil in Vojvodina is more suited for growing white varieties.

The Central Serbia is mostly hilly area, with several high mountains, and the winegrowing areas are largely located in river valleys and hillsides, with an average altitude ranging from 150 to 350 meters. The soil differs from region to region; still it is usually combined, moderately fertile and loose, warmer than in Vojvodina, with moderate to high clay content and moderate limestone content. Moreover, in some areas there are a lot of shales and stones, and in general, black varieties give better results.

13 VINARIJA ATELJE VINA ŠAPAT Klima

srp – Globalne klimatske promene zahvatile su i Srbiju, sezona grožđa vrhunskog kvaliteta. Po Winklerovom indeksu, većinski vegetacija sve je toplija, ali klima je i dalje vrlo pogodna za pro- deo vinske Srbije je u temperaturnoj zoni B prema klasifikaciji izvodnju vrhunskih, i belih i crvenih vina. Može se okarakterisati EU, a pojedini delovi, naročito na istoku centralne Srbije su u kao umereno kontinentalna, sa dobro definisanim sezonama, nešto toplijoj zoni C1. Nekoliko velikih reka – Dunav kroz sredinu uz vrlo topla leta i hladne zime, kao i velike razlike u dnevnoj i Vojvodine, Morava kroz središnji deo centralne Srbije i Timok kroz noćnoj temperaturi. istočnu Srbiju značajno utiču na klimu i moderiraju je, čineći je posebno pogodnom za uzgoj visokokvalitetnog grožđa. U Vojvodini je klima nešto hladnija, sa više vetrova, dok je južno od Beograda toplija, sa manje vetrova. Generalno, Srbija tokom Takođe, postoji nekoliko posebno značajnih mikrolokaliteta, godine ima dosta sunčanih sati, u pojedinim delovima čak i blizu od kojih su najvažniji Fruška gora i jezero Palić u Vojvodini, kao 2.000. Količina padavina je umerena, u proseku oko 650 mililitara i brežuljkasta okolina Topole u Šumadiji i kotlina Župa na jugo- po kvadratnom metru godišnje, što je optimalno za proizvodnju istoku Srbije.

14 Climate eng – Global climate change has also affected Serbia; the grow- Winkler index, large part of Wine Serbia is in the temperature ing season is getting warmer, but the climate is still well-suited zone B according to the EU classification; and some parts, espe- for premium white and red wines. It can be described as mod- cially in the east of central Serbia, are in a slightly warmer zone erately continental, with well-defined seasons, very warm sum- C1. Several large rivers - the Danube through the central part of mers and cold winters, significant differences between day and Vojvodina, the Morava through the central part of the Central night temperatures as well. Serbia and the Timok through the Eastern Serbia - considerably influence the climate and cool down the regions, making it par- In Vojvodina, the climate is slightly cooler, with more winds, ticularly suitable for growing high-quality grapes. while in the south of Belgrade it is warmer and less windy. Generally, Serbia has a lot of hours of sunshine during a year, in There are also several vitally important micro-localities, the some parts even almost 2,000. Rainfall is moderate, amounting most important being Fruska Gora and Lake Palic in Vojvodina, to about 650 milliliters per square meter annually, which is op- as well as the hilly surroundings of Topola in Sumadija and the timal for the production of high-quality grapes. Pursuant to the Zupa basin in southeast Serbia.

VINARIJA KIŠ

15 Vinogradarstvo srp – Površina vinograda u Srbiji konstantno se uvećava − obnavljaju se stari i sve više se sade novi vinogradi, a osim tradicionalnih vinogradarskih krajeva, ovaj trend širi se i na nove lokacije. Pristup vinogradarstvu je sve moderniji; koriste se nova saznanja i primenjuju savremene agrotehničke mere. Sve više se vodi računa o odabiru adekvatnih mikrolokacija, o sastavu i tipu zemljišta, odabiru adekvatnih loznih podloga i klonova, nagibima terena, ekspoziciji vinograda, a sve to s obzirom na mikroklimatske uslove. Što se tiče održavanja vinograda, primenjuju se moderni uzgojni oblici sa vertikalno postavljenim lastarima, najčešće jednogubi a zatim i dvogubi gijo sistem orezivanja, praktikuje se gušća sadnja kako bi se ograničio prinos i dobilo kvalitetnije grožđe, vodi se više računa o zaštiti od bolesti, primenjuju se defolijacija, zelena rezidba, zelena berba i druge mere koje doprinose poboljšanju kvaliteta grožđa.

Prema zvaničnim podacima, u Srbiji trenutno postoji nešto više od 20.000 hektara vinograda, a prinos je ograničen na 7−8,5 tona po hektaru za proizvodnju vina visokog kvaliteta. Poređenja radi, Srbija ima malo veću površinu od Austrije, ali u Austriji ima oko 30.000 hektara vinograda. Daleko najveći broj uzgajivača grožđa ima posede manje od 1 hektara, a vinogradi su uglavnom stari od 10 do 20 godina, mada se ponegde mogu naći i oni stariji od 50 pa i više godina i najčešće se ne navodnjavaju.

16 VINARIJA KOVAČEVIĆ Viticulture eng – The area of vineyards in Serbia is constantly increasing - the old ones are being renewed and new ones are being planted, and in addition to the traditional vineyard areas, the trend is expanding to new locations. The approach to viticulture is becoming more up- to-date; new knowledge and modern agro-technical measures are applied. More attention is being paid to the selection of proper micro-locations, the composition and type of soil, adequate grapevine rootstocks and clones, slopes of terrains, vineyard exposure, while taking into account the microclimatic conditions at the same time. As for maintaining vineyards, the modern method with vertically shoot positions is applied; mostly single and also double guyot system of pruning. High-density planting is applied to limit the yield and get high-quality wine, taking care of disease protection, applying defoliation, green pruning, green harvesting and other measures that contribute to improving the quality of grapes.

According to the official data, currently in Serbia there are just over 20,000 hectares of vineyards in Serbia, and the yield is limited to 7-8.5 tons per hectare for the production of high-quality wines. For example, Serbia has a slightly larger area than Austria, but there are about 30,000 hectares of vineyards in Austria. Vast majority of wine grape growers has holdings of less than 1 hectare. The vineyards are generally between 10 and 20 years old, rarely 50 or even older, and they are usually not irrigated.