Top Ten Dubai & Abu Dhabi

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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TOP DUBAI & ABU DHABI LARA DUNSTON & SARAH MONAGHAN

Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED: Title-page “UK” LAYER 001_Top_10_Dubai.indd(SourceReport 1 v1.3) 17/05/2017 12:54 Date 2nd October 2015 Size 100mm x 191mm Top 10 Dubai and The Top 10 Abu Dhabi Highlights of Everything

Welcome to Dubai and Culture and Tradition ...... 36 Abu Dhabi ...... 5 Art Galleries ...... 38 Exploring Dubai and Abu Dhabi ....6 Resorts in Dubai ...... 40 Dubai and Abu Dhabi Children’s Attractions ...... 42 Highlights ...... 10 Outdoor Activities ...... 44 Burj Khalifa and Around ...... 12 Restaurants ...... 46 Dubai Museum ...... 14 Best Bars in Dubai ...... 48 Dubai Creek ...... 16 Shopping Malls and Souks ...... 50 Al Fahidi ...... 18 Dubai and Abu Dhabi for Free .....52 Jumeirah Mosque ...... 20 Excursions and Tours ...... 54 Burj Al Arab Jumeirah...... 24 Dubai Souks ...... 26 Sheikh Zayed Mosque ...... 28 Emirates Palace ...... 30 Desert Escapes ...... 32

Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED: Contents “UK” LAYER 002-003_Top_10_Dubai.indd(SourceReport 2 v1.3) 17/05/2017 12:54 Date 19th June 2015 Size 100mm x 191mm CONTENTS

Dubai and Abu Dhabi Streetsmart Area by Area

Deira ...... 58 Getting To and Around Bur Dubai ...... 64 Dubai and Abu Dhabi ...... 104 Sheikh Zayed Road Practical Information ...... 106 and Downtown Dubai ...... 70 Places to Stay ...... 112 Jumeirah ...... 76 Dubai Marina and General Index ...... 118 Palm Jumeirah ...... 82 Acknowledgments ...... 124 Downtown Abu Dhabi ...... 90 Phrase Book ...... 126 Beyond the Centre of Abu Dhabi ...... 96

The information in this DK Eyewitness Top 10 Travel Guide is checked regularly. Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information, are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot Within each Top 10 list in this book, no hierarchy guarantee that any website address in this of quality or popularity is implied. All 10 are, in book will be a suitable source of travel the editor’s opinion, of roughly equal merit. information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Front cover and spine Madinat Jumeirah Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness and the Burj Al Arab hotel in Dubai Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, Back cover Dubai Marina at dusk London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email Title page Riding camels through [email protected] the desert near Dubai

002-003_Top_10_Dubai.indd 3 17/05/2017 12:54 004-005_Top_10_Dubai.indd 4 17/05/2017 12:54 Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi ❮❮ 5 Welcome to Dubai and Abu Dhabi

Dubai and Abu Dhabi are two of the world’s most exciting, rapidly changing cities. Packed with soaring skyscrapers, chic shopping malls and luxury resorts, both offer a surfeit of hedonistic pleasures and futuristic style. With Eyewitness Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi, they are yours to explore.

Both these cities have rewritten the record books and established themselves as global icons with recent mega-developments. Dubai’s sail-shaped Burj Al Arab Jumeirah is one of the Middle East’s most instantly recognizable landmarks, now rivalled by the cloud-capped Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building. In Abu Dhabi, the extravagant Emirates Palace hotel and monumental Sheikh Zayed Mosque have set their own raft of records, with the Abu Dhabi Louvre poised to add further lustre to the city’s ever-growing array of attractions.

Although modern developments inevitably hog the headlines, both cities – Dubai especially – have an older and much more traditional side. The labyrinthine souks of Deira and the historic windtower houses of Bur Dubai are a joy to explore, while a ride on Dubai’s breezy creek is the highlight of any visit. Outside the two cities the desert landscape is spectacular, and is best appreciated with an exhilarating afternoon drive across the sand dunes.

Whether you’re coming for a weekend or a week, our Top 10 guide brings together the best of everything the two cities can offer, whether shopping for spices in the backstreets of Deira or exploring the futuristic cityscapes of Dubai Marina and Al Maryah Island. The guide gives tips throughout, from seeking out what’s free to avoiding the crowds, plus nine easy-to-follow itineraries designed to help you visit a clutch of sights in a short space of time. Add inspiring photography and detailed maps, and you’ve got the essential pocket-sized travel companion. Enjoy the book, and enjoy Dubai and Abu Dhabi.

Clockwise from top: skyscrapers line Dubai Marina; Burj Khalifa; traditional wooden dhow in front of the Dubai Museum; water pool at Sheikh Zayed Mosque; Aladdin shoes in a Bur Dubai souk; desert hotel Anantara Qasr Al Sarab, near the Liwa Oasis; aerial view of the Palm Jumeirah

004-005_Top_10_Dubai.indd 5 17/05/2017 12:54 6 ❯❯ Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi Exploring Dubai and Abu Dhabi Both Dubai and Abu Dhabi are very spread out, and away from the old centre of Dubai you won’t see much by walking. Fortunately, Dubai’s superb modern metro system makes getting around easy, while in Abu Dhabi there are plenty of inexpensive taxis. Whether you have just a couple of days or more time to explore, here are some time-efficient ideas to help you make the most of your visit.

hindaghahindagha DeiraDeira BurjBurj Al Al Arab Arab Jumeirah Jumeirah ouksouks MadinatMadinat Jumeirah Jumeirah AlAl ahidi ahidi Jumeirah Mosue Jumeirah Mosue DubaiDubai Marina Marina DEIRADEIRA ALAL Dubai Museum UMMUMM SUQEIM SUQEIM JUMEIRAHJUMEIRAH Dubai Museum WASLWASL BURBUR DUBAI DUBAI bnbn Battuta Battuta heikhheikh aed aed Road Road MallMall JUMEIRAHJUMEIRAH aiai it it ISLANDSISLANDS BurjBurj halia halia DubaiDubai Mall Mall DubaiDubai ountain ountain RalesRales otel otel Around Dubai 0 km 50 views over the city (book your ticket oukouk al alBahar Bahar 0 miles 50 in advance to save money), and then browse the chic shops of the 0 km0 km Arabian ul adjacent Dubai Mall (see p73). 0 miles0 miles o desert saari harjah o desert saari AFTERNOON oo desert desert saari saari o Head out into the sands for a desert safari (see p32), starting with a spot of dune bashing. Round off the day with Desert an evening of henna painting, belly Abu aari Dhabi dancing and other traditional activities. UNITED ARAB EMIRATES OMAN Al Ain Seven Days in Dubai and Abu Dhabi Two Days in Dubai Day 1 Day 1 Start by visiting the Dubai Museum MORNING (see pp14–15) and then explore the Visit the Dubai Museum (see pp14–15; historic Al Fahidi (see pp18–19) closed Fri mornings) and take in the and Shindagha districts (see p16). historic Al Fahidi district (see pp18–19). Towards mid-afternoon head out of Catch an abra across Dubai Creek the city on a desert safari (see p32). (see pp16–17) and explore the souks in Deira (see pp26–7). AFTERNOON Head down to the Burj Al Arab Jumeirah (see pp24–5) for afternoon tea (advance booking required), then stroll over to the Madinat Jumeirah (see p79) at sunset. Day 2 MORNING Begin with a visit to the soaring Burj Khalifa (see Dubai Mall, the world’s largest shopping mall, is pp12–13) for panoramic packed with stores, food outlets and attractions.

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Sheikh Zayed Mosque is a truly incredible sight. The exterior is completely covered in gleaming white marble.

Key Two-day itinerary Seven-day itinerary

0 miles0 miles oo desert desert saari saari oo desert desert saari saari Day 2 Visit the beautiful Jumeirah Mosque (see pp20–21; closed Fri), then take a taxi or metro via Sheikh Zayed Road (see pp70–73) so that you can admire the skyscrapers en route to the Dubai Mall (see p73) and Souk al Bahar (see p72). Towards sunset, head up the Burj Khalifa (see pp12–13) for stunning views. End the day watching the spectacular Dubai Fountain (see p71). Day 3 Take a day trip to explore either the A desert safari is a popular and excellent museums and traditional thrilling way of seeing the desert. buildings of Sharjah (see p54) or the marvellous mud-brick forts and Day 6 oases of idyllic Al Ain (see p54). Explore the labyrinthine souks in Deira (see pp26–7). Then head down Day 4 to the quirky Egyptian-themed Head to Abu Dhabi (see pp90–101) to Wafi City (see p68) before ending spend a day exploring the Downtown the day with drinks or a meal in the area and the wonderful Corniche landmark Raffles Dubai(see p112). (see pp90–93). Book in advance for afternoon tea or dinner at opulent Day 7 Emirates Palace (see pp30–31). Admire the quirky Ibn Battuta Mall (see p83), then explore Dubai Marina Day 5 (see pp82–5). Next, head up to the Visit the monumental Sheikh Zayed Burj Al Arab Jumeirah (see pp24–5) Mosque (see pp28–9), then head for afternoon tea (advance booking down to the Abu Dhabi Louvre required) and explore the stunning (see p97) before returning to Dubai. Madinat Jumeirah (see p79).

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The entrance to Sheikh Zayed Mosque at dusk, Abu Dhabi

Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED: Chapter Openers “UK” LAYER 008-009_Top_10_Dubai.indd(SourceReport 8 v.1) 17/05/2017 12:54 Date 22nd April 2015 Size 100mm x 191mm Burj Khalifa and Around 12 Burj Al Arab Jumeirah 24 Dubai Museum 14 Dubai Souks 26 Dubai Creek 16 Sheikh Zayed Mosque 28 Al Fahidi 18 Emirates Palace 30 Jumeirah Mosque 20 Desert Escapes 32

008-009_Top_10_Dubai.indd 9 17/05/2017 12:54 10 ❯❯ Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi Highlights Dubai and Abu Dhabi Highlights The cities of Dubai and Abu Dhabi offer the best of East and West – Arab culture, Bedouin heritage and Islamic architecture, plus sophisticated shopping, dining and hotels. Dubai is set around its creek and skirted with white-sand beaches, while Abu Dhabi is located on a fine corniche. Dubai Museum Housed in an 18th-century fort, the Burj Khalifa Dubai Museum, with The world’s its fascinating displays, tallest building and provides a comprehensive the jewel in the crown introduction to the city of modern Dubai (see pp14–15). (see pp12–13). umeirah ubai osue ubai osue ous Dubai Creek ur l rab umeirah ubai JUMEIRAH useum Crisscrossed by DEIRA

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Dhaid ii aa bb E66 uu Arabian Jebel Ali Al Habna DD ul JADDAF T JADDAF E11 Madam TD AA E60 AL m Abu MATS MARQADH miles Dhabi 0 km 50 E20 0 miles 50 Al Fahidi The gypsum and coral courtyard houses in this quarter (also known as Bastakiya) were built by Persian merchants who settled here in the 20th century (see pp18–19). Jumeirah Mosque Desert Escapes Not only is this Dubai’s most A visit to the United Arab beautiful mosque, it is the only Emirates (UAE) is incomplete mosque open to non-Muslims. without a desert experience. Stay A guided visit to learn about Islamic at an enchanting resort or take a culture is a must (see pp20–21). fun desert safari (see pp32–3).

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Burj Al Arab Jumeirah This iconic seven-star hotel has long been the defining symbol of Dubai and is still a recog nizable landmark, rising high above the coast (see pp24–5).

Dubai Souks Bargain for gold, perfume, spices and textiles, or simply take in the heady atmosphere of Dubai’s souks (see pp26–7).

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DD This vast, snowy-white JADDAF T JADDAF mosque is topped with myriad domes and minarets. AL m The immense prayer hall is MARQADH miles a real highlight (see pp28–9). Emirates Palace The jaw-dropping display of gold lining the walls and Swarovski crystals dripping from the chandeliers at Abu Dhabi’s Emirates Palace hotel make for an impressive sight (see pp30–31).

Desert Escapes A visit to the United Arab Emirates (UAE) is incomplete without a desert experience. Stay at an enchanting resort or take a fun desert safari (see pp32–3).

010-011_Top_10_Dubai.indd 11 17/05/2017 12:54 12 ❯❯ Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi Highlights Burj Khalifa and Around Opened in 2010, the Burj Khalifa is by far the tallest building on the planet (828 m/2,716 ft). Its needle-thin outline soars high above Dubai and is visible from almost 100 km (62 miles) away. The Burj was planned as the centrepiece of the multi- billion-dollar Downtown Dubai development, but only when prompted by Dubai ruler Sheikh Mohammed did architects consider making it the tallest building in the world and a true symbol of Dubai’s towering ambitions. Armani Hotel 1 Occupying several of the Burj’s lower floors is the world’s first Armani Hotel, showcasing the famous Italian designer’s chic minimalist style (below). The hotel boasts some very trendy bars and restaurants, which are open to non-guests for meals and drinks.

The Exhibition Burj Khalifa 2 Interesting displays 3 Lake scattered around the The two observation entrance foyer and en decks offer incredible route to the observation views for miles around. decks chart the history The views straight down of the construction of the over Downtown Dubai Burj, commemorating are particularly stunning, some of the leading with buildings reduced to figures involved. A display the size of neat models, of fascinating photos also clustered around the show the tower when it intense-blue outline of was under construction. the Burj Khalifa Lake.

NEED TO KNOW Armani Hotel: 04 888 3888; cheaper for floor 124 if MAP C6 www.armanihotels.com pre-booked online, but prices rise for sunset. The Address Downtown: Burj Khalifa: Sheikh Combination tickets for Mohammed bin Rashid 04 436 8888; floors 124 and 148 must Boulevard, Dubai; 04 888 www.theaddress.com be pre-booked and also 8888; open 8:30am–6pm • cost more at sunset. Sat–Thu, 2:30–8:30pm Fri; The two observation decks adm: adults AED 125–500; are on floors 124 and 148. • Visit in the evening to children AED 95–500; Entrance is via the Dubai watch the Dubai Fountain www.burjkhalifa.ae Mall (see p73). Tickets are (see p71) perform to music.

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Souk Al Bahar 4 and Old Town On the southern side of Burj Khalifa Lake are Souk al Bahar (see p72) and the so-called “Old Town”. These mark a change in architectural tone from other nearby buildings with low-rise, sand-coloured Arabian- style design (right).

The Exterior 6 The vast exterior (left) is clad in 26,000 individually hand-cut glass panels set into the aluminium and steel curtain wall. Materials were designed to resist scorching summer temperatures. Sheikh Zayed At.mosphere 7 Road 0 The world’s highest Looking north from the bar and restaurant are on observation deck, Burj Khalifa’s 122nd floor. the view is dominated Fine dining and cocktails by Sheikh Zayed Road’s in the clouds are the long line of spiky sky- theme here (see p75). scrapers, although the height of the Burj means that even the tallest is TOP TEN reduced to relative TOWER FACTS insignificance. 1 It has more floors (163) The Address than any other building. 5 Downtown Jumeirah 2 The world’s highest Dominating the view 8 Looking west mosque (158th floor) to the southeast of the from the Burj, the sea is can be found here. Burj Khalifa is the huge relatively close at hand, 3 Lifts reach speeds of Address Downtown hotel with glimpses of the 10 meters per second. (below), with its unusual beach and views over 4 Over 12,000 people semicircular sum- the suburb of Jumeirah worked on its construction. mit. The hotel (see pp76–81), with its 5 A World War II airplane made world endless sprawl of low, engine was used to test headlines on milky-white villas. the wind resistance. New Year’s Eve 6 It takes three months in 2015, when Burj Al Arab to clean the windows. a huge fire 9 Jumeirah engulfed part and Beyond 7 The total aluminum used is equal to five Airbus 380s. of the building. At the far southern end of Fortunately Jumeirah rises the outline 8 The spire contains over no one was of the Burj Al Arab hotel 4,000 tons of steel. badly hurt. (see pp24–5). Although it’s 9 Pressurized refuges on over 10 km (6 miles) away, every 25th floor provide the hotel’s size means safety from fires. that it’s clearly visible. 10 It is named after the Beyond you can make out President of UAE, Sheikh the outline of the Palm Khalifa bin Zayed Jumeirah and the sky- Al Nahyan. scrapers of the marina.

012-013_Top_10_Dubai.indd 13 17/05/2017 12:54 14 ❯❯ Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi Highlights Dubai Museum This cleverly planned museum makes a great starting point for a tour of Dubai. It gives an insight into traditions past and present, and offers a vivid picture of how Dubai has crammed into five decades what most cities achieve in several centuries. Located in the historic creekside Al Fahidi district (see pp18–19), the museum is set within and beneath one of the city’s oldest buildings, Al Fahidi Fort. It traces the city’s meteoric development from a small desert settlement to the centre of the Arab world for commerce, finance and tourism.

Archaeological Multimedia 1 Finds 3 Presentation Interesting artifacts from An interesting 10-minute excavations of graves that film presentation with date back to 3,000 BC archive footage explains are on display, including the development of fine copper and alabaster modern Dubai from 1960 objects and a selection onward. The film takes of pottery (above). you through a decade-by- decade pictorial tour of Desert at Night Dubai’s transformation 2 Exhibitions over the past 50 years. Learn how animals that live in the Arabian desert Old Dubai have adapted to cope 4 Souk Dioramas with the lack of water, Holographic technology Al Fahidi Fort extreme temperatures combined with waxwork 5 Constructed in and shortage of food. figures(below) , smells, 1787, this fort, with its sounds and archive magnificent watchtower, footage help transport was built to defend the BEDOUIN CULTURE visitors back in time to Emiratis against invasion. Bedu, the Arabic word the creekside souks of Renovated in 1971, it now from which the name half a century ago. serves as a city museum. Bedouin is derived, means “inhabitant of the desert”. Bedouins would move from oasis to oasis by camel and engage in small-scale agriculture. The hardships of the desert have imbued Bedouin culture with a strong honour code and a famous hospitality.

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Courtyard Barasti and 6 Windtower House The courtyard in the Al Fahidi Fort (see p19) houses a barasti (date- palm frond) house (right) and windtower cooling system, which were both commonly seen in the region as recently as the 1950s.

Floorplan of Dubai Museum

6 7

9 3

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Key to Floorplan Ground Floor Basement

NEED TO KNOW Wooden Dhow Underwater MAP K2 • Al Fahidi 7 A traditional Arab 0 Pearl-Diving Fort, Al Fahidi St • 04 dhow (above) is on show Exhibition 353 1862 • www.dubai at the exit. For celestial This interesting gallery tourism.ae navigation, sailors used explains the techniques Open 8:30am–8:30pm the kamal, a device that used by pearl divers who Sat–Thu, 2:30–8:30pm Fri determines latitude using wore nose clips so that Adm: adults AED 3; the angle of the Pole Star they could descend to children AED 1 above the horizon. impossible depths. • A souvenir area at the Islamic School Dioramas museum sells traditional 8 Young Emiratis recite the lines of the Bedouin artifacts. Koran under the watchful eye of their tutor • Retain the flavour in this reconstruction of a 1950s school. of historic Dubai with lunch or a coffee in the Bedouin Traditions Display shady courtyard of A gallery displays the costumes, 9 the nearby Arabian Tea jewellery, weapons (right) and House Café (see p69). tools of the Bedouin people.

014-015_Top_10_Dubai.indd 15 17/05/2017 12:54 16 ❯❯ Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi Highlights Dubai Creek Dubai Creek, fed by the waters of the Arabian Gulf, is the lifeblood of old and new Dubai. The contrast of traditional woodendhows being unloaded at the wharfage against stunning modern architecture, such as the glass dome-fronted National Bank of Dubai and the giant ball-topped Etisalat building, is fascinating. The two sides of the creek are Deira (north) and Bur Dubai (south) and a walk along either is an ideal way to discover this multi-faceted city. Getting across the creek is easy: the nearest bridge for cars is Maktoum Bridge but the cheapest and most authentic crossing has to be byabra .

Bur Dubai 2 Waterfront The Diwan and historic architecture of “Old Dubai” are best enjoyed from the Deira side of the creek: here you can see windtowers, minarets and the domes of the Grand Mosque. Shindagha 3 Heritage In the Shindagha area near the mouth of the The Diwan creek you will find 1 8 1 With its modern the restored house and 3 white windtowers and museum of the late ruler imposing wrought-iron Sheikh Saeed Al Maktoum 2 gates, the Diwan (above), (see p67) and the Heritage T F T or Ruler’s Office, is an and Diving Village (see

impressive and important p66), which showcases 9

building (see p65). Arabian culture. T D u 7

b B B a i 6 l atoum Bateaux Dubai: 04 399 NEED TO KNOW ridge 4994; departs at 7:45pm MAP K1–K4 loating daily; www.jaresorts ridge

Creekside Park: 04 336 r

hotels.com e 7633; open 8am–11pm k Sun–Wed, 2–11:30pm Creek Cruises: 04 393 9860; Map of 4 5 Thu–Sat; Adm: AED 5; www.creekcruises.com Dubai Creek www.dm.gov.ae • By night, admire the Creekside Abra Crossing: Route 1: illuminated dhows as they 4 Park 5am–midnight, Route 2: glide along the creek. A wonderful expanse 24 hours; AED 1 each way of parkland, Creekside Al Mansour Dhow: • If you need a refreshment Park stretches along opposite Radisson Blu in the area, stop for a the water’s edge. Walk Hotel, Baniyas Road; cooling fresh juice at the its length and enjoy the 04 222 7171; departs stall by the entrance to vistas or take a half-hour at 8:30pm daily the Textile Souk (see p27). cable car ride along the length of the entire park.

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National Bank Creek Cruises 7 of Dubai 9 Tour operators One of Dubai’s first offer romantic dinner modernist high-rises cruises along the creek is still one of its most each evening aboard memorable (left). The traditional wooden dhows, curved façade (inspired often accompanied by by the shape of belly-dancing and live a dhow’s hull) Arabian music. The sleek reflects the Bateaux Dubai offers a water below more modern and (see p59). luxurious option.

Dubai Creek Golf Club 5 The Dubai Creek Golf Club building (above) HISTORY OF DUBAI CREEK is one of the city’s most unusual modernist T landmarks, with glass-fronted façades nestled Once a tiny fishing F T settlement sprawled beneath three spiky white “sails” (see p60).

around the mouth of

the creek, Dibei, as T D Dhow Abra Trips u 7 b it was known in the B B a 6 Wharfage 8 Abras are flat- i 6 16th century, owes its l atoum Stroll beside the creek bottomed, open-sided ridge existence to the 14-km along Baniyas Road, water taxis and are a (9-mile) Dubai Creek, loating where colourfully painted breezy way to travel the ridge which led into a natural

r wooden dhows (below) creek. Cram in with other e harbour and established

e k are moored and boats passengers – the abras itself as a flourishing arrive from Iran, Oman carry 40,000 people per hub for entrepôt trade. 5 and the rest of the UAE. day – and enjoy the views. Marsa al Seef 0 Stretching along the Bur Dubai waterfront, Marsa al Seef is the biggest development in the history of the creek. Due to open in 2017, it will have a traditional souk, abra station, shops, cafés and a museum.

016-017_Top_10_Dubai.indd 17 17/05/2017 12:54 18 ❯❯ Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi Highlights Al Fahidi The beautifully restored old Al Fahidi quarter (also known by its old name of Bastakiya) gives a picturesque glimpse into the city’s past, in sharp contrast to the futuristic architecture found elsewhere. As you wander the maze of shady streets and alleys, traditional windtower houses with elegant courtyards can be seen in sand, stone, coral and gypsum. The buildings have been restored to their original state, with Arabesque windows, decorative gypsum panels and screens. This area is home to art galleries, museums and cafés.

Traditional Coins Museum 1 Architecture 3 The Coins Museum The need to remain showcases Arabian cool prompted money (left) the vernacular through the style of the ages. Almost windtower 500 coins are courtyard on display houses. Thick from Ummayad walls and narrow to Ottoman times, windows with with touchscreens intricate Arabesque providing fascinating designs are featured. historical information. Majlis Gallery Sheikh 2 Named after the 4 Mohammed word for a meeting place Centre for Cultural in Arabic, Majlis is a bijou Understanding art gallery built around This pioneering centre a beautifully converted aims to give visitors whitewashed Arabic and expats a deeper house with a central understanding of Emirati garden. It houses the culture. A number of works of local Emirati activities are available, and expat artists, and including walking tours features original pottery, of Al Fahidi (see p55) ceramics, crafts and and regular “cultural” Coffee jewellery (see p38). breakfasts and lunches. 5 Museum This museum reveals the history of the region’s favourite drink. Exhibits include old-fashioned grinders, coffee pots and antique tins (above), and you can try a cup of Arabian-style coffee. Old City Wall 6 Restoration work of the original 200-year-old city wall (left) has drawn attention to the history of this section of the city as a crucial defensive zone.

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Bastakiah 7 Nights NEED TO KNOW Restaurant MAP K2 With its courtyard setting, Coins Museum: 04 515 this restaurant boasts an 5035; open 8am–1pm & Arabian atmosphere best 5–8pm Sun–Wed, experienced after dusk. 9am–1pm Thu The restored building (left) has been tradition Sheikh Mohammed ally furnished, with Centre for Cultural authentic Arabic and Understanding: 04 353 Emirati food served 6666; open 8am–5pm inside or on the rooftop. Sun–Thu, 9am–1pm Sat; www.cultures.ae Coffee Museum: 04 353 8777; open 9am–5pm Sat–Thu; www.coffee museum.ae Bastakiah Nights Restaurant: 04 353 7772; open 11am–11pm

• Visit Al Fahidi late in the day when the golden light and long shadows add to the atmosphere.

• For lunch, the Arabian Tea House Café offers healthy light meals and snack options – fresh soup and salad (see p69).

Arabian Tea 0 House Café Located in a traditional courtyard of an Al Fahidi house, this café is a great spot to sit amid flowering Al Fahidi Fort bougainvillea and enjoy WINDTOWERS 8 An interesting lunch (see p69). The most distinctive museum that provides architectural element insight into the history, of Arabian houses in culture and heritage of the early 20th century, Dubai. The original walls windtowers (barjeel) of the fort were built were designed to create from coral and shell natural ventilation. With rubble (see pp14–15). four open sides, each of which was hollowed XVA Gallery, into a concave v-shape, 9 windtowers deflected Café and Hotel the air down, cooling Contemporary art is on the rooms below. Water display in galleries off the was thrown on the floor courtyard of this restored beneath the tower to traditional house (right). cool the house further. It is also home to a café and hotel (see p38).

018-019_Top_10_Dubai.indd 19 17/05/2017 12:54 20 ❯❯ Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi Highlights Jumeirah Mosque Dubai’s culture is rooted in Islam, a fact that touches all aspects of everyday life. Virtually every neighbourhood has its own mosque, but the jewel in the crown is undoubtedly Jumeirah Mosque. This fine example of modern Islamic architecture was built in 1998. It is a dramatic sight set against blue skies and is especially breathtaking at night, when it is lit up and its artistry is thrown into relief. Built of smooth white stone, the mosque, with its elaborately decorated twin minarets and majestic dome, is a city landmark and an important place of worship.

The Hajj Mosque Architecture 1 Every able-bodied 3 With its vast central dome Muslim is expected to (right), this mosque is inspired by make the annual the Anatolian style. The exterior pilgrimage to Mecca, is decorated in geometric relief in Saudi Arabia, once. over the stonework. Each year millions of Muslims from all over the globe do so to be forgiven of sins, to pray and to celebrate the glory of Allah (below).

NEED TO KNOW • The mosque tours are intended to help visitors MAP E4 • Jumeirah Road, gain a real understanding Jumeirah • 04 353 6666 of the Islamic faith, so Mosque Tours: 10am Sat– make the most of the Thu, meet by the entrance Ramadan question time to find out to the mosque 10 minutes what you would like to 2 During the holy in advance (no booking know. Photography is month of Ramadan (the required); adm: AED 20, permitted inside. ninth month of the Islamic under 12s free calendar), Muslims abstain • Each tour lasts about from food, drink and other • Close to the mosque, 75 minutes. Admission physical needs from the Lime Tree Café (see includes water, dates, dawn till sunset. This is p81) serves sandwiches, Arabic coffee, tea and a time for purification cakes and coffee. traditional pastries. and to focus on Allah.

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CALL TO PRAYER Wherever you are in Dubai, you are likely to be within earshot of a mosque and to hear the daily calls to prayer “Allahu akbar” (God is great). Today, the modern-day call Prayers is transmitted through 5 loudspeakers; in the The adhan (call to prayer) rings past the muezzin made out from the minarets five times a day – the call himself. all able Muslims must supplicate themselves (above) to Allah by praying on a musalla (traditional mat). Mihrab 9 The mihrab Five Pillars of Islam (below) is the niche in 6 The “Five Pillars of Islam” the wall of this and every are: Shahadah, the belief in the mosque that indicates oneness of God; Salat, the five daily the qibla, the direction prayers; Zakat, almsgiving; Siyam, a Muslim should face selfpurification andHajj , the when praying. This pilgrimage to Mecca. mihrab gives the impres sion of a door or a passage to Mecca.

“Open Doors, Minarets 4 Open Minds” 7 Two minarets Guided Tour (above) crown this Jumeirah Mosque is mosque. The height of the the only mosque in Dubai tallest one – the highest Mosque open to the public. The point of the “House of 0 Etiquette “Open Doors, Open Minds” Allah” – is determined Dubai may be very inter active guided mosque by how far the call to cosmopolitan, but in tour, run by the Sheikh prayer should be heard. keeping with mosque Mohammed Centre for etiquette, you must dress Cultural Understanding Minbar conservatively to enter. (see p18), offers an 8 The minbar is No shorts or sleeveless opportunity to admire the pulpit from which the tops for either gender; the subtle interior Imam (leader of prayer) women must wear a decoration and to gain stands to deliver the headscarf. Remove your insight into Islam. khutba (Friday sermon). shoes before entering. Following pages The beautiful interior of the Sheikh Zayed Mosque

020-021_Top_10_Dubai.indd 21 17/05/2017 12:54 022-023_Top_10_Dubai.indd 22 17/05/2017 12:54 022-023_Top_10_Dubai.indd 23 17/05/2017 12:54 24 ❯❯ Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi Highlights Burj Al Arab Jumeirah So recognizable that it instantly became an international symbol for modern Dubai, the Burj Al Arab Jumeirah (meaning “Arabian tower”), completed in 1999, is an exclusive all-suite hotel. With its helipad on the 28th floor and a restaurant seemingly suspended in mid-air, it is a place of sheer decadence. At a soaring 321 m (1,053 ft), it also takes the trophy for being the world’s tallest all-suite hotel. Set on its own artificial island against the backdrop of the turquoise waters of the Gulf, it is dazzling white by day and rainbow-coloured by night, when its façade is used as a canvas for spectacular light displays.

NEED TO KNOW Talise Spa Lobby 1 Perched on the 4 The lobby is an MAP C1 • Jumeirah Rd, 18th floor, Talise Spa airy space of marbles, Dubai • 04 301 7777 is an idyllic retreat with mosaics and hand- • www.jumeirah.com soothing ocean views. crafted carpets in Al Mahara: open 12:30– The beautiful decor is swirling patterns. There 3pm, 7pm–midnight reminiscent of baths used is an impressive multi- Skyview Bar: open by ancient Middle Eastern hued dancing fountain. noon–2am civilizations.There are panoramic views from • In order to enter the the infinity pools. hotel, you must have a reservation for a meal, The Exterior cocktails or afternoon 2 The shore-facing tea. To do this, call the façade of the Burj is hotel at 04 301 7600 or covered by what looks email BAArestaurants@ like stretched translucent jumeirah.com. The most fabric. This is Teflon- affordable options are coated woven glass fibre. drinks at Gold On 27 It is the first time such and at Scape Restaurant technology has been & Bar, or food at Bab used in this way in any Al Yam. building worldwide. • The dress code at Gold On 27 and Scape Skyview Bar Restaurant & Bar is 3 With its sky-high "stylish chic", and smart location, this rooftop bar The Atrium casual dress is required offers the most amazing 5 The vast gold- at Bab Al Yam. vistas of the shimmering leaf-covered columns coastline. The bar – a and many layers of floors must for cocktails at rising up from the lobby sunset – is reached by an (above) give a strange express panoramic lift. dizzying sensation.

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The Helipad 0 Jutting out of the building's summit, the Burj’s iconic helipad (below) has featured in numerous commercials. It is also a unique wedding venue, and once hosted a game of tennis between Andre Agassi and Roger Federer. Suites Architectural 6 The 202 amazing 9 Inspiration duplex suites (above) are The billowing sail of the equipped with the latest Arabian dhow was remote technology, plus the inspiration for in-suite check-in and this contemporary personal butler service. creation (below). The two Royal Suites offer Access for guests unsurpassed luxury, even is by helicopter including a private cinema. or via Rolls Royces on the Fish Tanks causeway. 7 The lobby boasts a pair of enormous tropical aquariums. They are so THE CONSTRUCTION large that members of The Burj Al Arab Jumeirah the hotel staff have to is said to be one of the put on diving suits in most expensive build order to clean them out. ings ever constructed – an estimated $2 Nathan billion was spent on it, 8 Outlaw at though the full cost has Al Mahara never been revealed. Built on its own artificial island At the base of the (which took three years tower, this lavish to reclaim), the Burj al but intimate Arab Jumeirah rises to a restaurant is height of 321 m (1,053 ft); centred on a it was the world's tallest circular aquar- hotel until 2007. Inside, ium. Dine on the building's dazzling superb seafood decor incorporates over from a menu 30 types of marble and devised by 8,000 sq m (86,111 sq ft) Michelin- of shimmering 22carat starred chef gold leaf ornamentation. Nathan Outlaw.

024-025_Top_10_Dubai.indd 25 17/05/2017 12:54 26 ❯❯ Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi Highlights Dubai Souks Shopping in Dubai is a shopaholic’s dream, with almost nothing that cannot be bought here, but away from the air-conditioned marble-floored shopping malls is another experience: the souks. Many of these, such as the gold, textile and spice souks clustered beside the creek, date back to Dubai’s beginnings as a palm- fringed trading port. Exploring their warren-like alleyways is a delight. Generally, each type of stall, be it spices, crafts, perfumes or clothing, are located close together, making it easy to spot a good deal. Bring cash and keep in mind that bargaining is expected. Naif Rd Souk, Deira Covered 1 Deira 3 Souk A kitsch faux desert fort This souk feels more houses this traditional- Indian than Arabic, with style souk with everything a medley of merchandise from cheap clothes and offered: colourful textiles, fake designer accessories spices, kitchenware, to children’s toys. clothes and henna. Gold Souk 2 This souk gleams with gold (below), silver and gems. Prices are competitive; dealers come in from around the globe and strict regulations are followed.

Map of the 47 2 9 VISIT TO A TAILOR’S Dubai Souks

k Dubai is a wonderful place for tailoring, with an incredible array of 8 textiles being widely T 5 available. Various tailors’ T shops can be found around the Textile Souk, 6 T but also elsewhere in Satwa and Bur Dubai. Most tailors will make 02 km 3 1 an exact replica from Deira Grand Souk the original item or a 4 photograph, or you can Sprawling behind the Spice Souk, Deira’s Al select from their range Souk Al Kabeer (“Big Souk”) boasts hundreds of of pattern books. shoebox shops clad in coral-stone façades. The cute little Al Arsa Courtyard at the back is especially pretty.

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Deira Spice Dubai Souks 7 Souk NEED TO KNOW This tiny souk is a real Open 10am–10pm sensory delight. You (some souks shut at can purchase aromatic 1:30pm to attend the frankincense and myrrh prayers) • www.dubai (with charcoal burners tourism.ae for them), plus an array • Bargaining is expected. of spices (left) such Start at half of the initial as cloves, cardamom price and haggle until and cinnamon. Iranian you reach a compromise. saffron is particularly good value, too. • Tax-free prices in Dubai make luxury items such as perfume and electronic goods highly affordable.

• Around the Bur Dubai souks are good-value Indian restaurants.

Dubai Food 9 Souk Great piles of colourful fruit and vegetables (especially dates), huge hunks of meat and heaps of ocean-fresh hammour and shark are just some of the foodstuffs on offer at this bustling souk. Karama Souk 0 This souk offers “copy” items, especially watches and handbags. The quality of much of the products, although fake, is very good (below). Bur Dubai Textile Souk 5 Beautifully restored, this creekside souk k (above) is covered by an arched pergola. It makes for an atmospheric walkway lined with money lenders and little stalls selling reels of cloured cloth. T Bur Dubai Deira Perfume T

6 8 Meena Bazaar Souk T Be warned, a visit here Fascinating shops sell may necessitate a trip heavy exotic scents like to a tailor. Wonderful jasmine, oudh, amber fabrics from all over the and rose, and will also world, in every colour mix individual “signature and texture imaginable scents”. Traditional (silks, satins, brocades, Arabian attars are for linens and more), are sale alongside well- laid out before you. known Western brands.

026-027_Top_10_Dubai.indd 27 17/05/2017 14:30 28 ❯❯ Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi Highlights Sheikh Zayed Mosque Standing guard over the city, the monumental Sheikh Zayed Mosque is the largest mosque in the UAE. It has room for 40,000 worshippers and attracts vast crowds during festivals such as Eid. Built between 1996 and 2007, the mosque was the brainchild of the late president of the UAE, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan. Vast quantities of marble, gold, semiprecious stones and crystals were used in the construction, while the Pan-Islamic design unites styles including Persian, Mughal and Moorish. The Exterior 1 The outline of the mosque, with its four great minarets, dominates all approaches to the city. Covered in snowy-white Sivec marble from Macedonia, the building is topped with over 100 domes. The Prayer 4 Hall Carpet The floor of the main prayer hall is covered in a single vast carpet, the largest in the world. Made in Iran, the carpet is well over 5,000 sq m (53,819 sq ft) in size, weighs around 35 tonnes and contains an estimated 2.26 million knots. The Prayer 5 Hall Chandelier Hanging magnificently The Minarets above the centre of the 6 Four minarets The Prayer prayer hall is the largest stand at each corner 2 Hall of the mosque’s seven of the courtyard, rising The cavernous main huge chandeliers. some 107 m (351 ft) prayer hall (above) is an Produced in Germany, high. The design of the extravagant showpiece this is the third biggest minarets fuses Mamluk, of decoration and design, chandelier in the world – Ottoman and Fatimid supported by 96 marble- measuring some 10 m styles from Turkey and clad columns inlaid with (33 ft) wide and 15 m Egypt, symbolizing the mother of pearl. The hall (49 ft) high. It was made diverse traditions of is capable of holding over using over a million Islamic architecture 7,000 worshippers. Swarovski crystals. around the world. The Entrance Entrance to the 3 mosque is via a grand white arcade (right), with lines of gold-topped pillars to either side. The entrance is fronted by long pools of water.

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The Qibla 8 The prayer hall’s SHEIKH ZAYED qibla wall (indicating the Former ruler of Abu direction of Mecca) has a Dhabi and “Father of the golden alcove set into UAE”, Sheikh Zayed bin the wall surrounded by Sultan Al Nahyan (1918– the 99 names of Allah 2004) became leader written in traditional of Abu Dhabi in 1966 Kufic calligraphy(left) . following a peaceful coup against his elder brother. He instigated a programme that rapidly launched the city’s transformation from Arabian backwater to global city. In 1971, he also became the first president of the newly formed UAE. Famed for his generosity, Zayed remains a revered figure throughout the country.

The Minbar 0 Sitting alongside the qibla alcove is the small minbar (pulpit), from which sermons are given during Friday Prayers (below).

The Courtyard Tomb of 7 The vast courtyard 9 Sheikh Zayed (above) has space for Outside the mosque is 30,000 worshippers and the tomb of Abu Dhabi’s is dazzlingly bright during former ruler, Sheikh the day. The floral mosaic, Zayed bin Sultan Al picked out in marble on Nahyan. The tomb is as the floor, is said to be the under stated as the rest largest in the world. of the mosque is ornate.

NEED TO KNOW 2pm & 7pm Sat), 5pm & the mosque, and the 7pm Fri building also looks MAP V3 • Khaleej al Arabi spectacular after dark, and Sheikh Rashid bin • Visitors must remove with a unique lighting Saeed streets • 02 419 1919 shoes and cover arms and system designed to reflect • www.szgmc.ae/en legs. Women are asked to the phases of the moon. Open 9am–10pm Sat– wear a robe and headscarf • For refreshment head to Thu, 4:30–10pm Fri (provided free). the nearby Souk Qaryat al Free guided tours: 10am, • The 5pm Sunset Tour is Beri (see p97), with its many 11am & 5pm Sat–Thu (also a nice time of day to see cafés and restaurants.

028-029_Top_10_Dubai.indd 29 17/05/2017 12:54 30 ❯❯ Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi Highlights Emirates Palace The stupendous Emirates Palace hotel dominates Downtown Abu Dhabi’s southwestern side. Opened in 2005 to rival Dubai’s Burj Al Arab Jumeirah, the hotel cost a reputed $3 billion and is built on the grandest of scales, stretching for well over a kilometre along its own exclusive beach. The hotel’s majestic red-sandstone exterior, topped with rippling domes and surrounded by gushing fountains, is guaranteed to impress. Even more spectacular, however, is the lavish interior, a dazzling, shimmering vision of marble, gold leaf and opulent decorative features.

NEED TO KNOW

MAP N1 • The Corniche, Abu Dhabi • 02 690 9000 • www.emirates palace.com

• Officially you need an advance reservation to get into the hotel. However, the lobby is open to the public. For reservations email: guestrelation@ emiratespalace.ae

• For a soothing evening, Emirates Palace Spa offers an array of excellent spa escapes, such as the signature 24 Carat Gold Radiance Facial. Swarovski Majlis with • For afternoon tea or a 1 Crystal 3 Arabian Horse cup of coffee, call into Al Chandeliers Mural Majlis coffee lounge or You’ll notice the abundant The most impressive of the Viennese-style café. use of chandeliers the many plush public For lunch or dinner, try throughout the hotel – at spaces here is the majlis Mezzaluna (02 690 7999; Emirates Palace, they’re (meeting area). It has a 12:30–3pm & 7–11pm) used like light bulbs and blue ceiling with frescoes or Sayad (see p95). appear to be sparkling and a magnificent mural in every single room. of Arab stallions. Triumphant Emirates 2 Arch 4 Palace Theatre Before entering Emirates Emirates Palace has Palace you’ll be dazzled given Abu Dhabi its first by a majestic pink theatre, a remarkable Triumphant Arch gate venue that is the largest with a dome on top and a in the UAE. The packed long and grand driveway programme includes (left). The gate is usually Russian ballet, Arabic closed but opened for orchestra concerts and royalty and dignitaries on musical shows like special occasions. “The Spirit of the Dance”.

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Palace Suites Emirates Palace 5 has 302 plush rooms and 92 sumptuously decorated Khaleej and Palace Suites. On the fifth floor is a reception for kings and heads of state and on the eighth are suites designed especially for the Gulf Rulers. The Saudi suite (right) even has its own barbershop. Palace 9 Gardens and Fountains The exterior of the palace (left) adopts traditional Arabian architectural elements and is painted to reflect the variations in colour of the Arabian sands. It is beautifully enhanced by its landscaped gardens and stunning fountains. Algerian 0 Sand Beach The white sand of the 1.3-km- (1-mile-) long beach was imported from Algeria. A popular Domes Petrified beach for swimming and 6 There are 114 7 Palm Trees cricket before Emirates domes here. The most There are 8,000 trees Palace was built, it was stunning is the Grand within the hotel. The felt the sand wasn’t soft Atrium dome, decorated date palm, which is a enough for royal feet. with silver and gold glass national icon, can be mosaic tiles and a gold seen everywhere. finial at its apex. Some of the palm trees, ON A SCALE LIKE petrified to preserve their NO OTHER natural beauty, look real The Emirates Palace is and are very impressive. spread over 1 million sq m (10 million sq ft), with Gold-Plated over 300 rooms, around 8 Lobby 2,000 staff from 50 The opulence of the different countries, 114 domes, 1,002 chandeliers, lobby’s gold interior two helipads and a (left) is dazzling. Until ballroom capable of Emirates Palace was accommodating more built, Abu Dhabi was a than 2,500 people. It is modest city. It was here claimed even hotel staff that the city’s wealth sometimes get lost in was ostentatiously put on the endless corridors. display for the first time.

030-031_Top_10_Dubai.indd 31 17/05/2017 12:54 32 ❯❯ Top 10 Dubai and Abu Dhabi Highlights Desert Escapes The Emirates’ desert is sublime in parts and a trip here is incomplete without experiencing its myriad textures and colours. Not far out of the cities, camels graze on desert grass. If you don’t have a 4WD and off-road driving skills, the best way to experience the desert is at the magical desert resorts Al Maha or Bab Al Shams. Or take a desert safari, which allows you to tick off a range of experiences you otherwise would not get a chance to do. If you have time, stay overnight, sleep under the stars and enjoy the silence.

Ballooning LIWA OASIS 3 Drifting over the desert The most spectacular in a hot-air balloon (right) is an desert scenery can be incredible experience. Balloon enjoyed at Liwa Oasis, Adventures Emirates fly over the just a few hours drive Dubai Desert Conservation Reserve. from Abu Dhabi. The sand dunes here are the largest in the UAE. Beautifully coloured in pretty shades of peach and apricot, the sand dunes look at their best shortly after sunrise or just before sunset.

Desert Safaris 1 Tour agencies like Arabian Adventures organize desert safaris. These may include a thrilling desert drive in a 4WD, falconry displays, camel rides, Arabic buffets and belly dancing. Dubai Desert 4 Conservation Reserve Experience the unspoiled desert at this reserve, with dunes and rare wildlife, including oryx and mountain gazelle. Visit on a day tour or stay at the Al Maha resort. Al Maha 5 Resort Book a romantic tent-like Bab Al Shams Desert Resort luxury suite, and get your 2 The palm-shaded gardens and trickling ponds own plunge pool with the make this resort (above) enchanting. A wonderful golden desert as your infinity pool overlooks the desert(see p117). “backyard” (see p117).

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NEED TO KNOW Arabian Adventures: 04 303 4888/343 9966 (Dubai), 02 691 1711 (Abu Dhabi); open 9am– 6pm; from AED 250; www.arabian- adventures.com Balloon Adventures Belly Dancing Dune Bashing Emirates: 04 388 4044; 6 Belly dancing is 8 Experience an open Sep–May; www. known as Oriental exhilarating “dune ballooning.ae dancing in the Middle bashing” session – a Dubai Desert East, and it has a long white-knuckle 4WD Conservation Reserve: history. Try to pick up desert drive crashing www.ddcr.og some moves from the over huge dunes and Abu Dhabi Falcon dancer at the desert wheel-spinning out of Hospital: Sweton Rd; safari – she may even dips (above). It is not tours 10am & 2pm Sun– pull you up for a dance. for the faint-hearted. Thu; www.falcon hospital.com

• Unless you want to experience the scorching heat, it is best to visit the desert in spring, autumn or winter.

Bedouin Feast 7 Tuck into a delicious Arabic buffet, such as the Bedouin feast at Bab Al Shams’ Al Hadheerah Desert Restaurant. You can experience local specialities including roasted baby camel. Falconry 9 Falconry is one of the UAE’s most cherished Camel Riding desert traditions, with 0 Become friendly magnificent birds of prey – with this local beast of falcons (left), hawks burden. Nothing is quite and eagles – swooping like a camel ride (above) across the sands. along spectacular dunes Displays are offered in at sunset. Ride a camel various places including at the Heritage and the Al Maha and Bab Diving Village in Dubai Al Shams resorts. (see p66).

032-033_Top_10_Dubai.indd 33 17/05/2017 12:54 The Top 10 of Everything

The atrium at Burj Al Arab Jumeirah, Dubai

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in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. You can ride a camel at the Heritage and Diving Village in Dubai (see p66). Fishing and 4 the Dhow Historically, fishing, pearl diving and building dhow (boats) were the main occupations along the coastal settlements. Today, Emiratis still use the old wooden dhow boats for fishing, trading An Emirati man training a falcon and tours. Visit dhow- building wharfs in Deira (see p61). Falconry 1 In the past, falcons were used Bedouin Society by Bedu to capture small birds and 5 The seminomadic lifestyle of hares. Today, Emirati men still train the Bedu tribes – most of whom their falcons daily. Some desert spent the harsh summers inland at resorts and safaris have falconry the cool date-palm oases and their displays (see p33). winters fishing by the sea – is a source of pride for Emiratis. Visit the Traditional Dress Heritage Villages in Dubai (see p66) 2 Women wear a black abaya and Abu Dhabi (see p92) for a (a cloak-like dress) and a black shayla glimpse into the Bedouin culture. (scarf) to cover their hair. Men wear a white dishdasha (robe) and a white Poetry, Dance and Song or checked gutra (head scarf) with a 6 Emirati poetry takes many black agal (cord) to hold it in place. forms, from the romantic baiti style to the vernacular nabati poetry. The Camel Wedding processions are an occasion 3 A mainstay of the Bedouin’s for song and dance. Songs and group nomadic life, the camel enabled dances such as the ayyalah and Bedouin tribes to move their liwa celebrate bravery in war and at possessions from coastal villages to sea. Enjoy traditional performances inland oases. Camel’s milk quenched at the Heritage and Diving Village their herders’ thirst when water (see p66) and in Downtown Dubai wasn’t found, while the fur was used during Eid and the Dubai Shopping to make tents, textiles, rugs, bags Festival (see p39). and cloaks. Camel’s milk is more nutritious than cow’s milk, and you The Arabian Horse can buy it at local supermarkets 7 Beloved by the Bedouin for their elegance and valued for their strength and sturdiness, the Arabian horse is one of the world’s oldest and purest of breeds due to the Bedouin’s careful breeding.

Camel with a bright saddle blanket

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Appreciate the beauty of the Arabian horse at the Heritage and Diving MOMENTS IN HISTORY Village (see p66) during both Eid and the Dubai Shopping Festival. Pearling 8 Up until the 1920s, pearling was Dubai’s major source of income. By the turn of the 20th century the city had well over 1,000 pearling boats employing most of the city’s men during pearling season.

9 The Date Palm Death of Sheikh Zayed Dates were essential for 1 5110 BC: Abu Dhabi settlement desert survival. They were used to Date stones on Dalma Island and flint create tamr, a preserve, tools on Merawah Island attest to which helped sustain human life in Abu Dhabi in 5110 BC. the Bedu over long 2 AD 700: Islam arrives journeys. There The Umayyads bring Islam to Arabia. are over 50 date 3 1507: European traders reach varieties in the the Gulf UAE. The Dubai The Portuguese invasion of the Gulf Food Souk (see p59) islands and the east coast paves the A basket is the best place to way for Arabia to start trading with of dates shop for dates. British, French and Dutch ships. 4 1793: Al Bu Falah tribe settles Henna in Abu Dhabi 0 Intricate henna patterns were The Al Bu Falah and Al Nahayan painted on pottery across the Middle tribes settle in Abu Dhabi. East in around 9000 BC (the start of 5 1833: Al Maktoum tribe arrives the Neolithic period). Today, Emirati in Dubai women have henna designs painted Under the leadership of Maktoum bin on their hands and feet for weddings Buti Al Maktoum, the Al Maktoum tribe and other events. Get henna designs settles at the mouth of Dubai Creek. at “henna tents” in shopping malls. 6 1894: Tax-free trading Dubai introduces tax exemptions for foreigners. Persians are the first expats. 7 1950s: Discovery of oil Oil is discovered in Abu Dhabi in 1958 and Dubai in 1966. The fortunes of the cities are immediately transformed. 8 1971: UAE established The seven emirates become the UAE Federation, with Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, ruler of Abu Dhabi, as the new President. 9 2004: Death of Sheikh Zayed The UAE goes into mourning with the death of its president. 10 2008: Credit crunch The global financial crisis sends Dubai to the brink of bankruptcy before intervention from Abu Dhabi. Henna designs being applied

036-037_Top_10_Dubai.indd 37 17/05/2017 12:54 38 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Art Galleries Folklore Gallery 1 MAP Q2 • Zayed 1st Street, Al Khalidiya, Abu Dhabi • 02 666 0361 • Open 9am–1pm & 4pm–9pm Sat–Thu One of the best places to find works of art and craft from across the region, including handmade greeting cards, Turkish bookmarks, prints and handblown glass. Majlis Gallery 2 MAP K2 • Al Musalla roundabout, Al Fahidi neighbourhood, Dubai • 04 353 6233 • Open 10am–6pm Sat–Thu • www.majlisgallery.com Dubai’s oldest commercial art gallery focuses on Arabian and Middle Eastern themed work by local and The traditional exterior of XVA expat artists. Browse for good prints, ceramics and sculpture (see p18). XVA 5 MAP K2 • Al Fahidi neighbour hood, Dubai • 04 353 5383 • Open 10am–6pm • www.xvagallery.com A superb contemporary art gallery set in a stylish boutique hotel in a restored traditional house. The idyllic courtyard café is also used as an exhibition space (see p19). Green Art Gallery 6 MAP C2 • Alserkel Ave, Al Quoz, Dubai • 04 346 9305 • Open 10am–7pm Sat–Thu • Closed first two weeks in Abstact artwork at the Third Line August • www.gagallery.com This established commercial gallery The Third Line in Al Quoz displays the work of 3 MAP C2 • Street 8, Alserkel Emirati and international artists, with Ave, Al Quoz 1, Dubai • 04 341 1367 a focus on the heritage, cultures and • Open 10am–7pm Sat–Thu; call environment of the Middle East. ahead • www.thethirdline.com There is a programme of changing This gallery showcases playful and edgy exhibitions throughout the year. work by artists from around the Gulf. Displays change every couple of weeks. Kanoo exhibition of Pop Art at Art Space The Empty Quarter 4 MAP D6 • Building 2, the Gate Village, Dubai • 04 323 1210 • Open 10am–7pm Sun–Thu • www.theemptyquarter.com This is the UAE’s only fine-art photography gallery. It features Middle Eastern and international documentary and creative work.

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Abu Dhabi Art Hub 7 MAP U4 • Plot 38, Musaffah, TOP 10 FESTIVALS AND EVENTS Abu Dhabi • 02 551 5005 • Open 9am–7pm Sat–Thu • www.adah.ae Focusing on both emerging and established visual artists, this gallery encourages interaction and cross- cultural artistic exchanges between national and international artists. Etihad Modern 8 Art Gallery MAP Q3 • Al Bateen Area, Villa 15, Huwelat St, Abu Dhabi • 02 621 0145 Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge

• Open 10am–10pm Sat–Thu 1 Dubai Marathon • www. etihadmodernart.com Jan • www.dubaimarathon.org This contemporary gallery An annual marathon race across the city. encourages the creation of art with 2 Dubai World Cup local references, exhibiting work MAP D3 • Meydan racetrack • Feb– from well-established and upcoming Mar • www.dubaiworldcup.com Emirati and international artists. The world’s richest horse-racing cup. 3 Dubai Tennis Championships Gallery Isabelle Feb–Mar • www.dubaiduty 9 van den Eynde freetennischampionships.com MAP C2 • Alserkal Ave, Al Quoz, Players battle it out at this tennis event. Dubai • 04 323 5052 • Open 10am– 4 Dubai Desert Classic • 7pm Sat–Thu www.ivde.net MAP B2 • Mar • www.dubaidesert This gallery predominantly represents classic.com Middle Eastern artists and favours A renowned golf tournament. provocative paintings, photography 5 Art Dubai and mixed media works. Standout Madinat Arena • Mar • www.art shows include Iranian artist Ramin dubai.ae Haerizadeh’s photo-manipulation Dubai’s biggest contemporary art fair. using his own face to recreate 6 Dubai International Jazz Festival themes from Persian theatre. MAP B2 • Dubai Media City • Mar • www.dubaijazzfest.com Art Space Crowds gather for performances by 0 MAP D6 • Gate Village, DIFC, some of the world’s biggest jazz names. Dubai • 04 323 0820 • Open 7 Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge 9am–6pm Sun–Thu Apr • www.abudhabidesert With a mission to nurture local challenge.com talent, this gallery has hosted A 4-day motor rally through the desert. great exhibitions by Middle Eastern 8 Dubai International Film Festival and Emirati artists. Highlights MAP C2 • Madinat Jumeirah • Dec • include Mohammed Kanoo’s www.dubaifilmfest.com Glam galas and film screenings take Kanoo exhibition of Pop Art at Art Space playful Pop Art. place during this week-long event. 9 Global Village MAP C3 • Dubailand, Emirates Rd • Dec–Feb • www.globalvillage.ae A huge fun fair and shopping bazaar celebrating multiculturalism. 10 Dubai Shopping Festival Citywide • Dec–Feb • www.mydsf.ae A retail and entertainment extravaganza, with sales, shows and events.

038-039_Top_10_Dubai.indd 39 15/06/2017 16:03 40 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Resorts in Dubai

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Al Qasr the hotel for its vast selection of 1 Opulent to the last detail, this restaurants and bars, including extravagant hotel looks almost like the trendy club Mahiki and 360°, a a Hollywood film set, with sweeping super-cool cocktail bar (see p81). staircases, supersized chandeliers and lavish Arabian styling (see p113). Ritz Carlton It is also where you will find the 4 Traditional European design romantic Pierchic restaurant (see p81), and understated elegance reign which offers memorable views of supreme at the superior Ritz Carlton the nearby Burj Al Arab Jumeirah. (see p114). Savour the hotel’s style over a sumptuous afternoon tea at the immaculate Lobby Lounge, sip cocktails in the opulent Library Bar or enjoy a spot of pampering at the hotel’s luxury spa. Raffles 5 All things ancient Egyptian are the order of the day in this pyramid-shaped city hotel (see p112). The lavish foyer, with its huge hiero- glyphic columns, is a sight in its own right, while views from the top of the building can be enjoyed during Jumeirah Zabeel Saray interior a visit to the trendy Tomo Japanese restaurant or an evening at the glitzy Jumeirah Zabeel Saray nightclub People by Crystal. 2 Dubai’s fondness for extravagant interior design reaches fever pitch at this extraordinary Palm resort (see p113), with a series of show-stopping restaurants and bars ranging from the stunning Indian- style Amala restaurant (see p87) to the futuristic Voda Bar (see p86). Jumeirah Beach Hotel 3 Dubai’s famous wave-shaped resort (see p113) is home to the ever-popular Wild Wadi Water Park (see p78). Non-guests also flock to The vast foyer at Raffles

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several leading family attractions, including the Lost Chambers (see p83) and Aquaventure (see p84). Non-guests can also use the beautiful hotel beach. Park Hyatt 8 A real urban retreat in the heart of the city, the Park Hyatt’s serene Moroccan styling and beautiful creekside setting offer a genuine sanctuary for the senses (see p112). The place is best appreciated over a meal at the Thai Kitchen restaurant (see p63) or with a glass of champagne at the waterfront bar The Terrace (see p62). Burj Al Arab Jumeirah 9 No trip to Dubai is complete without a visit to the most famous The opulent One&Only Royal Mirage building in the city – and perhaps the world. Enjoy a memorable One&Only Royal Mirage afternoon tea in the dazzlingly 6 With Moorish-style buildings, decorated atrium or take in stunning Dubai’s most romantic hotel is spread views over a cocktail in the sky-high out along the beach amidst a forest Skyview Bar (see pp24–5). of palms (see p113). Visit to savour the atmosphere and explore the The Palace outstanding restaurants, including 0 A haven of traditional Eauzone (see p87) and Tagine (see p87), Arabian style amidst the modern and relax in the stunning Oriental Spa. developments of Downtown Dubai (see p112). Admire the hotel’s Atlantis, The Palm sumptuous styling and stunning 7 This towering arch-shaped lakeside setting, and have a meal resort (see p113) at the end of the at the romantic Thiptara restaurant Palm is one of the city’s most famous (see p75) or take afternoon tea in landmarks and is also home to the decadent Al Bayt Lounge.

There are numerous attractions for day-trippers at Atlantis, The Palm

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An exhilarating water slide at the Aquaventure water park Magic Planet Aquaventure 1 MAP E2 • Deira City Centre, 3 Sprawled across 17 ha Dubai • 04 295 4333 • Open 10am– (43 acres) next to the Atlantis resort, 11pm Sat–Wed, 10am–midnight Thu– this vast water park has plenty to Fri • Adm for rides • www.deiracity thrill visitors. Travel through rapids, centre.com waterfalls and the death-defying An indoor entertainment venue for Leap of Faith slide (see p84). all the family, with a merry-go-round, bumper cars, pitch and putt golf, and MOTIONGATE™ Dubai video games for children, and a soft- 4 MAP B2 • Sheikh Zayed Rd, play area for toddlers. Dubai • 04 820 0000 • Open 11am–8pm Sun–Wed, 11am–10pm Thu–Sat • Adm Ski Dubai Snow Park • www.dubaiparksandresorts.com 2 All ski levels and ages can try Enjoy rides and shows based on the their hand at skiing or snowboarding Smurfs, Kung Fu Panda and many on the slopes of the largest indoor other movies, at the Middle East’s snow park in the world. You can also largest Hollywood-inspired theme park. meet the resident penguins during the 40-minute Penguin Encounter, IMG Worlds of or watch them for free during the 5 Adventure March of the Penguins (see p77). MAP C3 • Sheikh Mohammed Bin Zayed Rd, Dubai • 04 403 8888 • Open 11am–9pm Sun–Wed, 11am–10pm Thu–Sat • Adm • www.imgworlds.com This large indoor amusement park is split into four themed zones, including two based on Marvel Comics and Cartoon Network, and the exciting Lost Valley – Dinosaur Adventure. Wild Wadi Water Park 6 Dare to try some of the 30 adrenaline-fuelled watery rides or just float about on a rubber ring along the waterways of this enormous Watching the skiers at Ski Dubai outdoor water park (see p78).

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Yas Waterworld 7 Yas Island, Abu Dhabi • 02 414 TOP 10 PARKS, GARDENS AND BEACHES 2000 • Adm • www.yaswaterworld.com Offering fun-filled adventures for all ages, this Emirati-themed water park features 45 rides, slides and attractions for the whole family. Kidzania 8 MAP C6 • Dubai Mall, Dubai • Open 10am–10pm (till 11pm Fri– Sat • Adm; under 2s free • www. kidzania.ae Jumeirah Beach Park Children take over the world at Kidzania, a miniature city in which 1 Creekside Park kids can dress up in costumes A huge botanical park with BBQ areas, and role-play from a selection of a mini golf course and a cable car different jobs, including policeman (see p16). and fireman. 2 Za’abeel Park MAP F5–F6 • Sheikh Zayed Rd, Dubai Children’s City A technology-themed park with a football field, boating lake and cafés. 9 MAP K3 • Creek Park, Dubai 3 Al Seef Rd Park • 04 334 0808 • Open 9am–7pm MAP K2 • Dubai Sun–Thu, 2–8pm Fri & Sat • Adm; A great place to enjoy the creek action. under 2s free • www.childrencity. 4 Jumeirah Beach Park dm.gov.ae This park has landscaped play areas Housed in a brightly coloured and a beach with sunbeds (see p78). building, this play zone places an 5 Al Mamzar Beach Park emphasis on education. Activities MAP F1 • Al Hamriya, Dubai • 04 296 focus on subjects ranging from space 6201 • Open 8am–10pm; Mon is for exploration to international culture. women and children (boys under 4) only • Adm A child-friendly beach park with huge picnic areas, four swimming beaches, a mini train and bikes for hire. 6 Umm Suqeim Beach MAP C2 • Off Jumeirah Beach Rd, Dubai This public beach has shallow waters and views of the Burj Al Arab Jumeirah. 7 Safa Park A huge park with lots to do. Try the trampoline cage for fun (see p77). 8 Mushrif Park MAP F3 • Al Khawaneej Rd, Dubai • Open 8am–10:30pm Sat–Wed, 8am–11:30pm Thu–Fri • Adm A desert park with pools, farm animals, The futuristic Sega Republic a theatre and a botanic garden. 9 Russian Beach Sega Republic MAP D4 • Jumeirah Rd, Dubai 0 MAP C6 • Dubai Mall, Dubai This lively local beach is popular with Russian expats and tourists. • 04 448 8484 • Open 10am–midnight 10 Kite Beach • Adm • www.segarepublic.com MAP C2 • Umm Suqeim, behind Inside the Dubai Mall is an enormous Wollongong University, Dubai amusement arcade and theme park. A popular spot for watersports. Pay individually for rides, games and attractions, or buy a combined pass.

042-043_Top_10_Dubai.indd 43 17/05/2017 12:54 44 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Outdoor Activities Wind Surfing 3 Great winds make Dubai an ideal wind-surfing destination. Most good beach resorts hire out equipment and also offer wind- surfing lessons. The Westin Mina Seyahi hotel (see p113) is particularly renowned for its facilities. Fishing 4 Join an organized fishing trip where equipment is provided. Cook your fish on board or charter your own boat. Le Meridien Mina Seyahi Resort in Dubai (see p113) and the Beach Rotana in Abu Dhabi Skydiving over the Palm Jumeirah (see p116) offer great fishing trips. Skydiving Motor Racing 1 Skydive Dubai: MAP B1; 5 Dubai Autodrome Kart-drome: Al Sufouh Rd, Dubai; 04 377 8888; Emirates Rd, Dubai; MAP B3; 04 367 www.skydivedubai.ae 8700; www.dubaiautodrome.com For the ultimate Dubai high, strap Adrenaline-junkies can burn rubber yourself into a parachute and dive driving pro-karts at the Dubai into the city. Skydive Dubai arrange Autodrome. The Formula 1 standard tandem jumps over racing circuit has 17 hair-raising the Palm Jumeirah, turns. Book ahead for and run a training lessons at the excellent school in the desert. driving school. Scuba Diving Hot-air 2 Emirates Diving Racing car, the Autodrome 6 Ballooning Association: MAP K1; Getting a bird’s-eye- Heritage Village and Diving Village, view of the desert from a hot-air Al Shindagha; 04 393 9390; balloon is simply sublime. Only by www.emiratesdiving.com floating way above the dunes can you A popular local activity, the Emirates fully appreciate the waves of sand and Diving Association offers information patterns of light and shadow crafted on diving in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and by the ridges that are impossible to some of the East Coast towns. see from the ground (see p32).

A hot-air balloon floating over the desert landscape

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Wakeboarding 7 Hiltonia Beach Club: MAP Q2; TOP 10 SPECTATOR SPORTS Corniche Road West; Abu Dhabi; 02 692 4205; www3.hilton.com Try your hand at some wakeboarding tricks on the Arabian Gulf sea. If you’re a first-timer, the best place to learn is at a resort. Le Meridien Mina Seyahi Resort in Dubai (see p113) and the Hiltonia Beach Club in Abu Dhabi offer great lessons. Golfing 8 Dubai Golf: www.dubaigolf.com Runner in the Dubai Marathon Both Dubai and Abu Dhabi are awash 1 Dubai World Cup with world-beating courses. Several Dress up for the world's richest horse international competitions take place race with a $6 million prize (see p39). every year, including the Dubai 2 Dubai Desert Classic Desert Classic at the city’s largest Watch the world's best golfers compete course, the Emirates Golf Club. in this 4-day tournament (see p39). 3 Dubai Tennis Championships See the big guns of world tennis serve action at Dubai Tennis Stadium (see p39). 4 Dubai Rugby Sevens Nov • www.dubairugby7s.com The first leg of the Sevens World Tour is loved by rugby fans all over the world. 5 Camel Racing Al Wathba Camel Track, 45 km (30 miles) east of Abu Dhabi • Oct–Mar Thu–Fri Watch Emiratis drive their 4WDs around the track beside their camels. 6 F1 Grand Prix Dates vary • www.yasmarinacircuit. com Golfing in front of the Dubai skyline Since 2009, Abu Dhabi has hosted a race at the Yas Marina circuit. Kite Surfing 7 UAE Football 9 Kite Beach: MAP C2; Jumeirah Winter weekday nights • www. Beach, Dubai • North Kites: 04 394 proleague.ae 1258, www.northkites.com The choreographed dances and songs Join the local kite surfers on Dubai’s by the fans are just as riveting as the play on the field at this popular event. Kite Beach. You can hire or buy equipment from North Kites, who 8 Powerboat Racing will help connect you with instructors. Dec • www.f1h2o.com Watch the lightweight catamarans Horseriding in action at this exciting race. 0 Emirates Equestrian Centre: 9 Dubai Marathon MAP D3; 050 558 7656 • Abu Dhabi Runners from all around the world Equestrian Club: Al Ain, 02 445 5500 compete on the city streets (see p39). With its world-class equestrian 10 Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge centre, Dubai is the Middle East’s Bikes, 4WDs and even trucks take part undisputed horseriding capital. There in this international cross-country rally through the desert (see p39). is also a top equestrian centre in Abu Dhabi, which offers riding lessons.

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Mezlai Hotel. Opt for the blind-tasting menu, 1 MAP N1 • Emirates Palace, and choose between a seat in the Dubai • 02 690 7999 • Open beautiful old-world dining room or 1–10:30pm • DDD on the terrace outside (see p101). This innovative restaurant features authentic Emirati cuisine in a lavish Qbara setting. Guests are given five-star 4 MAP E2 • Wafi City (adjacent to treatment and can choose from a Raffles Hotel), Dubai• 04 709 2500 selection of local dishes, including • Open 6pm–1am • DDD fire-grilled seafood, Gulf-style There’s a distinct hint of Arabian biryanis and creamy desserts. magic in this very chic restaurant, with its intimate, dimly-lit interior and star-like illuminations twinkling overhead. Arabia dominates the menu, too, with mouthwatering mezze and inventive mains. Anise 5 Modelled on the eight points of the star anise, this charming eatery offers eight cooking stations. Diners can watch as the chefs create their meal with flair and passion. It also has a beautiful terrace that boasts views over The lavish dining room at Mezlai the Dubai Creek (see p63). Buddha Bar Eauzone 2 A cavernous, dimly-lit 6 Located in the One&Only restaurant overseen by an enormous Royal Mirage (see p113), this is Buddha, this is Dubai’s most spec- one of Dubai’s most romantic res- tacular piece of culinary theatre. taurants. Visit after dark and dine Food focuses on Pan-Asian cuisine, at tables in miniature Arabian tents including an excellent selection of set between floodlit pools. The Japanese dishes (see p87). food features top-quality Pan-Asian cuisine including some traditional Bord Eau classics and delicious contemporary 3 French fine dining is the fusion creations (see p87). theme at this upmarket restaurant housed in Abu Dhabi’s Shangri-La Eauzone, set beside a floodlit pool

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TOP 10 MIDDLE EASTERN RESTAURANTS 1 Tagine An exquisitely decorated restaurant serving fine Moroccan cuisine(see p87). 2 Arabian Tea House Café Affordable Arabian fare is served in a pretty courtyard garden (see p69). 3 Zahr el Laymoun MAP B6 • Souk Al Bahar, Dubai • 04 448 6060 • Open 10am–midnight • www.zahrellaymoun.com • DD Enjoy good Lebanese cuisine at this place overlooking the Dubai Fountain. 4 Shabestan MAP L2 • Radisson Blu Hotel, Dubai Creek • 04 205 7333 • Open 12:30– 3:30pm & 7:30–11:30pm • DDD A table setting at Indego by Vineet Expect quality Iranian cuisine and creek views at this hotel restaurant. Indego by Vineet 5 Awtar 7 Vineet Bhatia, India’s first MAP E2 • Grand Hyatt Dubai, Dubai Michelin-starred chef, showcases • 04 317 2222 • Open 7:30pm–3am his unique talents at this stylish Sun–Fri • DDD restaurant. It offers a mix of This place offers good Lebanese food with regular bellydancing performances. traditional Indian favourites alongside more unusual contemporary 6 Al Nafoorah creations, blending European and Top-quality Lebanese cuisine is served in a sedate setting (see p75). subcontinental influences (see p87). 7 Almaz by Momo Hoi An A Moroccan café owned by restaurateur Mourad “Momo” Mazouz (see p81). 8 The spirit of colonial-era French Indochina lives on at these 8 Bastakiah Nights A lovely courtyard restaurant in a beautiful wood-panelled restaurants, beautiful old Al Fahidi mansion (see p19). located in the Shangri-La Hotel in both Dubai and Abu Dhabi. The menu offers 9 Atayeb MAP W4 • Yas Viceroy, Abu Dhabi delicious and innovative Vietnamese– • 02 656 0600 • Open 7pm–1am French cuisine (see p75 & p101). Sun–Fri • DD Offers an iconic view. Dishes include 9 Rhodes Twenty10 Emirati fare. The brainchild of UK celebrity 10 Lebanese Flower chef Gary Rhodes, this unpretentious Abu Dhabi residents flock to this and affordable restaurant serves up excellent Lebanese restaurant (see p95). Rhodes’ signature reworkings of traditional British classics alongside a selection of more Middle Eastern- influenced creations(see p87). Pai Thai 0 Approached by abra (water taxi), this waterfront restaurant offers one of Dubai’s most romantic dining experiences. The stunning setting is perfectly complemented by the fresh and authentic Thai food. Expect Arabian Tea House Café crisply flavoured curries(see p81).

For a key to restaurant price ranges see p63

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Vivid blue and green decor at the popular Skyview Bar Skyview Bar Bar 44 1 Jutting out from the top of the 4 Prop yourself up at the Burj Al Arab Jumeirah, this is one of swanky circular bar or sink into Dubai’s ultimate places for a drink. a plush chair at this swish cocktail Sweeping views up and down the coast bar on level 44 (hence the name) are accompanied by a superior list of of the Grosvenor House hotel. cocktails, wines and other drinks. It attracts a regular sophisticated Advance booking is required (see p24). local set as well as visiting businesspeople out to impress The Rooftop colleagues with spectacular 2 It is easy to fall in love with views over Dubai Marina (see p86). the magical look and feel of this atmospheric Moroccan-style rooftop Up on the Tenth bar, with its Arabesque lanterns and 5 MAP L2 • Radisson Blue, Oriental lounge music (see p86). Bani Yas Rd, Dubai • 04 205 7033 • Open 6:30pm–3am Hidden away in Deira’s Radisson Blu hotel, Up on the Tenth is one of the city’s better-kept secrets. The bar itself is smart but unremarkable, but the stunning view over the creek is perhaps the best in the whole of the old city. Arrive early to bag a seat by the window and then while away the evening listening to the bar’s nightly jazz performances. Moroccan styling at the Rooftop Asia Asia Vault 6 Embark on a journey from 3 At the top of the JW Marriott Asia Minor through to the Far East Marquis, Vault is another head-in-the- at this extravagant restaurant. clouds bar with amazing views across The exciting menu takes inspiration Dubai. Chic decor and cocktails from the ancient Spice Route attract a monied crowd (see p74). (see p74).

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The Terrace 7 Reclining on one of the low TOP 10 SHEESHA SPOTS sofas at this bar and listening to the water lapping at the boats on Dubai Creek is about as relaxing as life gets. Add some oysters, champagne and caviar to the equation and you’re bound to have a sublime experience. The Terrace prides itself on its extensive vodka menu (see p62). 8 At.mosphere On the 122nd floor of the Burj Shimmers, located on the beach Khalifa, At.mosphere is the world’s highest bar, offering jaw-dropping 1 The Courtyard views in swanky surroundings. Most MAP B1 • One&Only Royal Mirage people come to eat in the attached Hotel, Jumeirah, Dubai • 04 399 restaurant, but you can also book 9999 • Open 6am–1pm yourself in for a drink. Advance A great selection of aromatic tobacco reservations are required (see p75). blends in a cushion-strewn courtyard. 2 Kan Zaman Bahri Bar Smoke under the stars at this authentic 9 You’ll be impressed with the Arabic café by the creek (see p69). enchanting old-Arabian details and 3 Shimmers sumptuous interiors of the colonial- MAP C2 • Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai styled bar at the Mina A’Salam hotel. • 04 432 3232 • Open noon–1pm Nurse a drink on the veranda and Sheesha at a deluxe beach shack. take in the mesmerizing view of the 4 Shakespeare & Co Burj Al Arab Jumeirah (see p81). MAP D4 • The Village Mall, Dubai • 04 344 6228 • Open 8am–1am A French Baroque-style patisserie by day, and a sheesha bar at night. 5 Souk Madinat Jumeirah The central plaza is a breezy, magical spot to smoke sheesha (see p80). 6 QDs Expats love this great smoking spot overlooking the creek (see p62). 7 Barouk MAP E5 • Crowne Plaza, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi • 02 656 3000 A lebanese eatery with sheesha terrace. 8 Khan Murjan MAP E2 • Wafi City, Dubai• 04 327 9795 • Open 10am–12:30am The grandeur of a 14th- century souk, Views from the veranda, Bahri Bar in the heart of Modern Dubai. 360° 9 Al Hakawati Café MAP B2 • Dubai Marina, Jumeirah, 0 Perched amidst the waves at Dubai • 04 288 8396 • Open the end of a breakwater, 360° has 10am–1am one of the very best views in Dubai, Smoke amongst towering skyscrapers. with the Burj Al Arab Jumeirah and 10 Special Sheesha Café Jumeirah Beach Hotel rising to either Branches on Abu Dhabi Corniche side. Chill-out music and DJs attract • Open 24 hours a cool crowd, and it’s a good place to Join the locals at these simple cafés. lounge over a sheesha (see p81).

048-049_Top_10_Dubai.indd 49 17/05/2017 12:54 50 ❯❯ The Top 10 of Everything Shopping Malls and Souks Marina Mall (Dubai) 3 MAP P1 • Exit 32 off Sheikh Zayed Rd • 04 436 1020 • Open 10am–10pm Sat–Wed, 10am– midnight Thu–Fri This sleek, modern mall on the marina waterfront is bursting with upmarket designer boutiques set around a huge circular atrium. Dubai Festival City 4 MAP E3 • Al Rebat St, Dubai • 800 332 22 • Open 10am–10pm Sun–Wed, 10am–midnight Thu–Sat This waterfront development offers a French Riviera-style marina, excellent shopping and alfresco dining. It has Textiles for sale, Souk Al Bahar more than 400 shops, including a huge Marks & Spencer and an IKEA. Souk Al Bahar 1 Just over the waterway from Marina Mall (Abu Dhabi) the Dubai Mall is this more Arabic- 5 With over 300 shops, expect themed affair featuring an array of big name brands, exclusive stores boutique and antique shops. There such as Rolex and Tiffany & Co, and is also an excellent selection of traditional Arabian perfume, sweets eateries and bars (see p72). and clothes shops. The excellent cafés include Hediard from Paris (see p91). Mall of the Emirates 2 Over 520 stores, including a Wafi City swish Harvey Nichols, make this the 6 This quirky mall is adorned city’s most sumptuous mall. If you’re with pharaonic statues, miniature in a rush, use the mall’s website to pyramids and assorted hieroglyphics. create an itinerary identifying the Shops include some excellent most direct route to the shops you independent fashion boutiques and wish to visit (see p79). the Wafi Gourmet deli(see p68).

Mall of the Emirates, crowned by an impressive glass dome

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Abu Dhabi Mall 7 Generally considered to be TOP 10 THINGS TO BUY Abu Dhabi’s smartest mall, this place boasts a huge array of shops arranged over three floors. You can find everything from designer fashion through to electronics and home furnishings (see p94). Ibn Battuta Mall 8 As soon as you see the six themed shopping zones and food courts within this mall, you won’t regret your long drive out to Emirates A selection of traditional khanjars Hills. The decor for each area is inspired by the countries that Arabia’s 1 Gold and gems Gold prices in Dubai are amongst the own Marco Polo, Ibn Battuta, cheapest found anywhere in the world, travelled to: Tunisia, Egypt, Persia, while precious stones (diamonds in India, Andalucia and China. There is particular) are also very keenly priced. also a 21-screen cinema (see p83). 2 Carpets Numerous shops across the UAE sell opulent Persian carpets at prices significantly lower than you would pay back home. Make sure you bargain hard. 3 Perfume Concoct your own scent from Arabian oils (attar) in a local perfume shop. 4 Arabian handicrafts Collectible local handicrafts include traditional Arabian-style coffeepots, traditional khanjars (daggers) and miniature carved wooden boxes. 5 Fun souvenirs Mosque-shaped alarm clocks, cuddly Ibn Battuta’s exotic interior camels and Burj Khalifa paperweights all make enjoyable mementos. The Galleria 6 Designer fakes 9 One of Abu Dhabi’s new Branded bags, watches and other consumer additions, the Galleria replica designer accessories are widely houses boutique stores owned by available in Karama and Deira. world-class luxury brands. It is set 7 Bedouin jewellery across three floors(see p94). Chunky antique silver bangles, necklaces and rings make unusual 0 The Dubai Mall but affordable souvenirs. Next to the world’s biggest 8 Music tower sits the world’s largest Stock up on a selection of recordings shopping mall. This monument to of Middle Eastern music, from more consumerism houses over 1,000 traditional Emirati singers to Egyptian stores, not to mention an ice rink, and Lebanese pop megastars. an aquarium, and a vast cinema and 9 Aladdin slippers entertainment complex. The mall also Dress like Aladdin in a pair of boasts over 150 food outlets, offering curly-toed Arabian slippers. everything from fine dining to casual 10 Electronics eateries. For Emiratis, the Dubai Keen competition keeps prices low Mall is as much about socializing as for mobiles, laptops and tablets. shopping (see p73).

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The striking white façade of Sheikh Zayed Mosque, a principal religious site Movies Under the Stars Sheikh Zayed Mosque 1 MAP E2 • Wafi City, 3 Abu Dhabi’s single biggest Oud Metha Rd, Dubai • 04 324 4100 tourist attraction is absolutely free • www.pyramidsrestaurantsatwafi.com to enter – and there are even gratis Grab a beanbag and settle down to guided tours (see pp28–9). enjoy a free open-air film-screening every Sunday (8:30pm) from October Dubai Trolley to May in the pretty rooftop garden 4 Free rides around Downtown above the Wafi City complex(see p68). Dubai are available every evening outside summer (5pm–1am daily) Free Museums aboard the cute Dubai Trolley, an 2 Museum admission rarely antique-style trolley-tram running costs more than a few dirhams, but on tracks alongside Mohammed bin some places – including Dubai’s Rashid Boulevard. Sit upstairs for Coffee Museum (see p18), the cooling breezes and the best views. Traditional Architecture Museum (see p67), Heritage House (see p59), Art for Free Al-Ahmadiya School (see p59) and 5 Dubai’s many art galleries offer the Abu Dhabi Heritage Village endless scope for seeing the work of (see p92) – are completely free. leading Middle Eastern and other artists at zero cost – unless you want to take a piece home (see pp38–9). Amazing Malls 6 Some of Dubai’s malls are virtual tourist attractions in their own right. Top picks include the extravagantly decorated Ibn Battuta Mall (see p83) and the upscale Mall of the Emirates (see p79), which has surreal views of the snow-clad slopes of Ski Dubai, complete with Exhibits at the Coffee Museum the occasional penguin (see p77).

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Waterside Walks Dubai and Abu Dhabi for Free 7 The breezy walks along the TOP 10 MONEY-SAVING TIPS Bur Dubai side (south) of the creek (see pp16–17) in Dubai and along the Abu Dhabi Corniche (see p90) are spectacular. You’ll see some of the best sights in these intriguing cities and it won’t cost you a penny. Free Beaches 8 The huge sandy beach at the Dubai Marina (see p84) is a popular local destination, with plenty of facilities available, including water sports. In Abu Dhabi, there’s a fine Dubai’s Gold Souk stretch of free soft white sand and 1 Purchase a Nol Card to make the clear blue sea fringing the city’s most of Dubai’s excellent metro. beautiful Corniche (see p90). The card can also be used on buses, water buses and trams (www.nol.ae) Ras Al Khor 9 Wildlife Sanctuary 2 The old city is absolutely crammed full of Indian curry houses and Settle into a hide and watch colourful shawarma cafés offering excellent flocks of bright pink flamingos and food at great bargain prices. other birds framed against a surreal 3 While summer is best avoided due backdrop of skyscrapers. It is free to the ferocious heat, hotel rates often to use the hides but groups of 10 or plunge between May and September. more require a permit (see p72). 4 Check online or with travel agents for combined hotel-plus-flight packages rather than booking travel and accommodation separately. 5 Bringing cash from home and changing it locally will often work out cheaper than using plastic, which can mean having to pay hefty credit card and ATM fees. 6 Many bars have regular midweek “ladies’ nights”, offering free drinks to members of the fairer sex. 7 Take advantage of the regular happy hours (generally from 6pm to 8pm daily). Offers during this time can massively reduce the cost of a drink. Ras Al Khor Wildlife Sanctuary 8 Don’t be afraid of haggling over prices in the old city souks, especially Dubai Fountain in Dubai’s Gold Souk (see p26). 0 Dubai’s record-breaking 9 If you want designer brands without choreographed fountain, set in the the Hollywood price tag, shops in middle of Burj Khalifa Lake, can be Karama Souk (see p27) offer a vast enjoyed for free every evening and array of convincing fakes at affordable most afternoons from any part of prices. Have an idea of how much you the broad pedestrianized walkway want to pay and bargain hard. running around the lake. This must- 10 Dubai’s many festivals (see p39) see experience offers close-up views often include activities, events and of the dancing jets and watery swirls entertainment either for free or at as they rise up, accompanied by very discounted prices. dramatic music (see p71).

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0 km 50 Khasab Hatta 3 105 km (65 miles) 0 miles 50 Al Qir OMAN from Dubai • Heritage Ras Al Khaimah Village: open 8am–7:30pm ee Sat–Thu, 3–9pm Fri Dibba Umm al Quwain E18 E87 Bidiya Visit the Heritage Village Sharjah Biatah Zubarah at this serene oasis town. Sharjah E88 A drive into the mountains Masafi Dubai Dhaid Fujairah from here leads to the Dubai E44 E311 E66 Al Habna clear Hatta Rock Pools, Jebel Ali Khor

E55 a fantastically beautiful Al Kalba E11 Maktoum Madam Hatta spot for swimming. E611 E77 E60 Al Ain Abu UNITED ARAB E66 4 Dhabi Abu Dhabi EMIRATES 160 km (99 miles) OMAN • E20 from Dubai Al Ain Al Mafraq Al Ain E11 Palace Museum: 03 751 E22 ee ee 7755 • Jahili Fort: next E30 to Al Ain Rotana Hotel • Al Ain Camel Souk: Wonder Bus Tour Al Ain-Buraimi border 1 04 359 5656 • www. Known as Garden City, this green wonderbusdubai.net emirate is home to the Al Ain This one-hour tour starts with Palace Museum. Also here a drive down to Shindagha in are the Al Ain Livestock Souk Bur Dubai, at which point the and the Jahili Fort. vehicle plunges into the creek for a cruise through the old Sharjah city before returning to land. 5 10 km (6 miles) from Dubai • Sharjah Art Liwa Museum: 06 568 8222 2 300 km (186 miles) • Heritage Museum: 06 from Abu Dhabi 569 3999 • Archaeological Liwa’s high golden dunes are Museum: 06 566 5466 almost devoid of vegetation The Sharjah Art Museum, yet close by are flourishing Pot, Heritage the Heritage Museum date-producing farms – an Museum, and the Archaeological awesome spectacle (see p32). Sharjah Museum are must-see sights. The souks here Liwa’s sandswept roads are also very good for shopping.

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Rugged mountain scenery on the Musandam Peninsula Musandam Peninsula Bidiya 6 193 km (120 miles) from 9 38 km (24 miles) north of Dubai • Khasab Travel & Tours: www. Fujairah • Visit outside of prayer times, khasabtours.com • Visa available accompanied by a mosque guide at Oman entry point This tiny fishing village is home to With amazing mountain cliffs and the oldest mosque in the UAE, dating a coastline of inlets and fjords, this back to 1446. Made from mud brick, northerly enclave is part of Oman. stone and gypsum, it is now restored, Enjoy dhow day-trips into the fjords. with its four small domes held up by a massive central pillar. Fujairah 7 130 km (81 miles) from Dubai Fujairah has a coastline of coral reefs and hillsides with forts and watchtowers. The Fujairah Fort is the oldest in the UAE, dating to 1670. The Yellow Boats 8 www.theyellowboats.com For the best views of the modern city, head out on the water with the Yellow Boats. Tours run up and down the coast starting from Dubai Marina, offering superlative views of the Marina skyscrapers, Atlantis and the Palm, and the Burj Al Arab Jumeirah. Bidiya’s 15th-century mosque Al Fahidi Walking Tour 0 Tours: Tue, Thu, Sat & Sun Explore Dubai’s historic and atmospheric Al Fahidi (Bastakiya) district with an expert guide from the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding (see p18). The 90-minute morning tours also include a rare chance to see inside the neighbouring Diwan Mosque and are followed by a Q & A session.

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Towering skyscrapers lining the spectacular man-made Dubai Marina

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056-057_Top_10_Dubai.indd 57 17/05/2017 12:54 58 ❯❯ Dubai and Abu Dhabi Area by Area Deira The term Deira is used to describe the bustling commercial area north of the creek. Deira is the source of Dubai’s trading roots and it is around the creek that you really get a sense of this. There is a telling contrast between the sight of the old wooden dhows moored at the wharfside and the glass façades of the sleek skyscrapers that surround them. Much of the dhow cargo is destined for the souks and shopping districts of buzzy Deira. As a result, the Gold Souk goods narrow streets here boast some of Dubai’s most atmospheric souks, including the Gold Souk, Spice Souk and Deira Covered Souk. A major preservation effort by Dubai Municipality means that this area offers some architectural gems like the Al-Ahmadiya School and the Heritage House.

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Food Souk 3 The sights and smells of a traditional food market provide an enthralling insight into the shopping and eating habits of the locals. On the north side of Deira, this large warehouse-like complex is the old city’s major source of fresh food. The colourful fruit and vegetable selection has dozens of stalls piled high with produce, as well as a section specializing in dates from the local area. The gory meat section is for dedicated carnivores only, but the salty-smelling fish section is well worth exploring, with ocean-fresh prawns, hammour and sharks laid out on display (see p27). National Bank of Dubai Courtyard at Heritage House 4 MAP L1 • Baniyas Rd Another architectural achievement Heritage House is the building housing the National 1 MAP K1 • Al Khor St • 04 226 Bank of Dubai – one of the city’s first 0286 • Open 8am–8:30pm Sat–Thu, iconic buildings. Built in the mid- 2–8:30pm Fri 1990s by Carlos Ott, architect of the This beautifully restored airy Opéra de la Bastille in Paris, courtyard house dates back to the it is inspired by the dhow. Its curved 1890s. Unusually, this 10-room curtain glass wall symbolizes the building does not have a windtower, billowing sail. The base of the but the upper floor is designed with building is clad in green glass, open doors and windows to draw in representing water, and its roof is the creek breezes. Now a museum cast in aluminium (denoting the giving an insight into Emirati history hull of the boat). It is most (with dioramas and touch screens), striking at sunset, when you can explore the different rooms, the mirror reflects all with 19th-century furnishings. its gold and silver lights. Al-Ahmadiya School 2 MAP K1 • Al Khor St • 04 226 National Bank 0286 • Open 8am–7:30pm Sat–Thu, of Dubai’s 2:30–7:30pm Fri stunning Dubai’s first school, opened in 1912, façade was founded by a philanthropist pearl merchant. Maths, the Holy Koran and Arabic calligraphy were taught and the pupils (all male) sat on palm mats. Many such schools were located in Emirati coastal cities with the support of leading merchants and sheikhs, who subsidised the education. This school closed in 1963. Now a museum, it offers a great educational insight into the past and is worth visiting just for its sheer architectural grace.

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The beautifully manicured greens of the Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club

Dubai Creek Golf as the Perfume Souk – although 5 and Yacht Club there’s no actual souk building. MAP E2 • Garhoud • 04 295 6000 Dozens of small shops line the This soaring white building, inspired street, selling a mix of international by the sails of a dhow and sitting brands and local perfumes. The amidst rolling greens, is a city land best are made using the aromatic mark, visible from both Maktoum oud (derived from aloe wood) and and Garhoud bridges. Opened in come in ornate cutglass bottles. January 1993, the worldclass golf Most shops also allow you to create course here is the centrepiece of a your own scents from their selection sprawling leisure complex that also of perfume oils (see p27). incorporates a 115berth marina. The separate yacht club incorporates the Aquarium, an excellent seafood DEIRA HISTORY restaurant, as well as one of Dubai’s Liberal trade policies are behind the most popular alfresco eateries, the development of Deira, which, by the Boardwalk (see p63), which sits on early 20th century, had become the stilts and offers a spectacular view of largest souk on the Arabian coast. It was the creek, especially at night when a haven for merchants who left Lingah, on the Persian coast, after high customs the illuminated dhows pass by. were introduced there in 1902. They continued to trade with Lingah, as do Perfume Souk many of the dhows in the creek. 6 Immediately east of the Gold Souk, Sikkat al Khail Rd is home to an array of shops popularly known Spice Souk 7 Moody and atmospheric, the Exotic spices at the Spice Souk Spice Souk is a sensory trip into the past, where you can wander through a maze of narrow alleyways of shops piled high with aromatic spices. You’ll find sacks of cinnamon sticks, frankincense, cumin, coriander seed and oud. Some great souvenir buys include frankincense (sold with a charcoal burner), henna kits (for hand and body decoration), saffron and fragrant rose water (see p27).

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Gold Souk A STROLL THROUGH THE SOUKS 8 You are unlikely to have ever seen so much gleaming gold as in ee Dubai’s historic Gold Souk. The souk s ee is still dominated by Indian and Iranian craftsmen and traders, as it has been for close on a century. It has pe been restored with a traditional Arabic arcade and an arching wooden roof. You’ll find jewellery in both Arabic and western styles (see p26). e ee Deira Covered Souk s 9 This is where you get a real taste of the melting pot of cultures AFTERNOON that is Dubai. The souk is frequented by both Emiratis and expats, and Aim to start this walk around sells everything from bright Indian 4:30pm, when the souk shops re-open after prayers and clothing to colourful kitchenware. temperatures are cooler. Start There are even household appliances with an abra crossing (see pp16- and pirated CDs. It is a fascinating 17) from the Bur Dubai Abra area to wander around (see p26). Station. You can disembark at Deira Old Souk Abra Station. Take the underpass beneath Baniyas Road to emerge at the Spice Souk entrance. Enjoy a browse among the fragrant alleyways here. Leave the Spice Souk at Al-Abra St, turn right along Al-Ras St, which leads into Sikkat Al-Khail St. Ahead you will see the latticed entrance to the Gold Souk, with its colonnaded interior. There are more than 300 jewellery shops to explore (most accept credit cards). Wander into the narrow alleyways off the main thoroughfare and enjoy a traditional cup of tea at one of the small cafés. Exit at the Gold Souk and continue along Sikkat Al-Khail St to the Colourful textiles, Deira Covered Souk tiny Perfume Souk. The shop windows here are a treasure Dhow Wharfage trove of bottles filled with heady Arabian scents, incense and oud. 0 MAP L1 • Baniyas Rd A walk along the wharfside beside EVENING Baniyas Road allows you to get up close to the painted wooden dhows, Continue along Sikkat Al-Khail St the traditional Arabian sailing vessels and enjoy an evening snack at Ashwaq Cafeteria (04 226 1164), a moored here. These ships still trade down-to-earth café with outdoor around the Gulf. Their cargo these tables, serving shwarmas. Next, days is tyres, refrigerators, air return to the creek to admire the conditioners, electronics – just about Dhow Wharfage. For a relaxed any modern item. Moored five or six ending to the day, drop in at Dubai abreast, these dhows have sailed to Creek and Yacht Club’s QDs (see trade with Dubai from places such as p62) and chill out with a cocktail. Pakistan and Sudan since the 1830s.

See map on p58

058-061_Top_10_Dubai.indd 61 17/05/2017 12:54 62 ❯❯ Dubai and Abu Dhabi Area by Area Cafés and Bars YUM! QDs 1 MAP L2 • Radisson Blu Hotel 5 MAP K6 • Dubai Creek and • 04 222 7171 • Open noon–11:30pm Yacht Club • 04 295 6000 • Open • D 5pm–2am “Live Fast: East Fast” is this noodle Lounge with a sundowner at this kitchen’s motto. Inspired by different creekside wooden-decked terrace Far Eastern cuisines, it makes for a bar or enjoy a sheesha at the majlis fun pit stop for lunch or a quick dinner. area while the live band plays. Aroos Damascus Paul 2 MAP L3 • Al Muraqqabat Rd 6 MAP E2 • Deira City Centre • 04 • 04 221 9825 • Open 6am–3am • D 295 8404 • Open 8am–midnight • DD One of the city’s best cheap Middle This bustling French brasserie chain Eastern cafés, with a menu featuring has taken the city by storm over the mezze, grills and fish, all beautifully past few years. It serves an excellent cooked. Try to get a table on the terrace. array of open sandwiches, salads, and delicious eggs Benedict. Creekside 3 MAP K3 • Sheraton Dubai Automatic Creek • 04 207 1750 • Open 6:30– 7 MAP L3 • Al Rigga St • 04 294 11pm • DD 8333 • Open 10am–1am Sat–Wed, Savour the freshest of fish, expertly 10am–3am Thu & Fri • D prepared Japanese-style, and enjoy This local Lebanese chain is a Dubai the lovely views of the creek. institution, with fresh food, great prices and friendly staff. There are a number of branches across the city. Irish Village 8 MAP E2 • Garhoud • 04 282 4750 • Open 11am–1am Sat–Wed, 11am–2am Thu & Fri Throw back a pint or two and tuck into some fish and chips in Guinness batter at this Irish-style pub. Find yourself a spot on the outdoor bench seating surrounded by greenery. Belgian Beer Café 9 MAP E3 • Crown Plaza, Dubai Festival City • 04 701 1127 • Open noon–2am • DD The Terrace, overlooking the creek A favourite among expats, the BBC, as it is affectionately known, offers The Terrace a wide range of Belgian speciality 4 MAP E2 • Park Hyatt Hotel, ales and traditional dishes. Dubai Creek Golf Club • 04 602 1814 • Open 11am–2am Eclipse Champagne Bar Made for alfresco drinking and set 0 MAP E3 • Inter Continental, Dubai on the marina front, the Terrace Festival City • 04 701 1111 • Open 6pm– features the Raw Bar, offering a 2am Sat–Wed, 6pm–3am Thu & Fri selection of caviar, oysters, prawns This cosy cocktail bar has a real wow and salmon accompanied by a factor thanks to its views over Dubai variety of premium vodkas (see p49). Creek and Sheikh Zayed Road.

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The China Club PRICE CATEGORIES 1 • MAP L2 Radisson Blu Hotel For a three-course meal for one with half • 04 222 7171 • Open 12:30–3pm & a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), 7:30–11pm daily • DD taxes and extra charges. This elegant restaurant has striking D Under AED 100 DD AED 100–400 oriental decor and an extensive menu DDD Over AED 400 of dim sum and Chinese classics. Glasshouse 6 Mediterranean Brasserie MAP L3 • Hilton Dubai Creek, Baniyas St • 04 227 1111 • Open 7am–10:30pm • DD A chic, glass-enclosed casual restaurant that serves comfort-food classics. It is the perfect place for a light lunch or an informal dinner. Traiteur 7 MAP E2 • Park Hyatt Hotel, The stylish interior of the China Club Dubai Creek Golf Club • 04 602 1814 • Open 6pm–midnight daily & 12:30– Table 9 4pm Fri • DDD 2 MAP L3 • Hilton Dubai Enjoy classic European cuisine and Creek, Baniyas St • 04 212 7551 admire the chic, modern decor here. • Open 6:30pm–midnight • DDD Set up by two British expats, this Boardwalk fine-dining destination is a Dubai 8 MAP E2 • Dubai Creek Golf favourite. Gastronomic surprises are Club • 04 295 6000 • Open 8am– served in a subtle, upmarket setting. midnight • DD This restaurant is built on a wooden Thai Kitchen veranda over the creek, with stunning 3 MAP E2 • Park Hyatt Hotel, views, especially by night. The menu Dubai Creek Golf Club • 04 602 1814 is varied, with light Mediterranean • Open 7pm–midnight Sat–Thu, fare and Eastern-inspired dishes. 12:30–4pm & 7pm–midnight Fri • DD Thai delicacies are served from live Anise cooking areas. The tasting portions 9 MAP E3 • InterContinental, allow you to sample a range of dishes. Dubai Festival City • 04 701 1131 • Open 6:30pm–11:30pm • DD Blue Elephant Enjoy international fare after 4 MAP E2 • Al Bustan Rotana Hotel, some shopping at Dubai Festival Al Garhoud Road • 04 282 0000 • Open City Mall (see p46). noon–3:30pm & 7pm–midnight • DD A must-visit for the Thai decor, Nomad delicious food and warm service. 0 MAP E2 • Jumeirah Creekside Hotel, Garhoud • 04 230 8572 The Bombay • Open 6:30am–midnight daily 5 MAP L2 • Marco Polo Hotel • DD • 04 272 0000 • Open 12:30–3pm & This one-of-a-kind eatery offers 7:30pm–2am • DD a unique experience with its This restaurant is considered to be combination of international cuisine one of the best curry houses in town. and a vibrant, atmospheric décor.

See map on p58

062-063_Top_10_Dubai.indd 63 17/05/2017 12:54 64 ❯❯ Dubai and Abu Dhabi Area by Area Bur Dubai This bustling part of the city is packed with hotels, office blocks and residential developments, yet over a century ago it was a sandy area filled withbarasti (palm frond houses) and windtower houses around the creek. To get a sense of old Bur Dubai visit the historical Al Fahidi neighbourhood (formerly Al Bastakiya), where the charming courtyard houses have been restored beside the creek. This atmospheric district is a quiet oasis amidst the city’s hustle and bustle. Here too is the Al Fahidi Fort, now the Dubai Museum. The Shindagha heritage area, right at the creek mouth, is where Dubai’s role as an enterprising Panel detail, Architecture and cosmopolitan trading city really began. Museum The souks of Bur Dubai are evidence of this.

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Crossroads of 1 Civilization Museum MAP J1 • Al Khaleej Road • 04 393 4440 • Open 10am–4pm Sat–Thu • Adm • www.themuseum.ae Travel through the ages at this intimate museum. Interesting displays showcase a world-class array of largely Middle Eastern artifacts, which range from ancient Mesopotamia through to the Ottoman era. Highlights include Egyptian mummy masks, priceless Sumerian sculptures and a beautiful section of kiswa (cloth used to drape the Kaaba in the Grand Mosque at Mecca), which was donated by legendary Ottoman ruler Suleiman the Magnificent in 1543. Dubai Museum 2 and Al Fahidi Fort Door at the Iranian Mosque Once Dubai’s main defence outpost, T l ahidi T T the imposing sand-coloured Al Fahidi but well worth the effort. Following T Fort was built in 1788 and has also the traditional Persian style, every

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girih residence. Renovated in 1970, it is dome is covered in rich -style now the city museum and worth a tilework glazed with swathes of e e look for an informative overview of deep-blue patterns and embellished Al Ghubaiba the Emirates’ history. It makes an with delicate arabesques and swirling TT entertaining visit for all ages: you can floral motifs picked out in yellow T T T T walk through a souk from the 1950s, and green. See ne map metres T T visit an oasis with a falaj (irrigation Al Ghubaiba yards channel), learn about the desert at Ruler’s Court (Diwan) 4 • night and visit a traditional barasti MAP K2 Adjacent to Al Al Rigga T (see pp14–15). Fahidi, Creekside A cream building with imposing wind- Al Fahidi e Iranian Mosque towers sits beside the Creek next to e

3 MAP J1 the Grand Mosque. The striking gold- Tucked away in a topped wrought-iron gates give a clue l atoum backstreet off the to its importance: it is the seat of ridge Deira City Buruman Centre Textile Souk (see p66), power and the Ruler’s Court or Diwan, T Bur Dubai’s superb (Persian for couch). Dubai’s ruler loating Iranian Mosque (no Sheikh Mohammed’s offices are here. ridge T entrance to non- ADBC Al arama Ruler’s Court (Diwan) beside the Creek Oud T Muslims) is tricky to find Metha T T eese

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Al Fahidi 5 This is one of the oldest and most atmospheric heritage areas in Dubai. Here you can wander the alleyways between original, restored courtyard houses. Many are crowned with tall windtowers, which were the earliest forms of air conditioning. Late afternoon is the best time to spend a couple of hours here, when the light throws the Beautiful carpets at the Textile Souk architecture into golden relief. The area has become a Textile Souk cultural hub for the city with many 7 At the heart of Bur Dubai, the buildings converted to art galleries Textile Souk begins at the water’s and courtyard cafés (see pp18–19). edge by the Dubai Old Souk Abra Station. Since the souk’s Heritage Village renovation, it is now housed 6 and Diving Village under an imposing arcaded MAP K1 • Al Shindagha • 04 393 wooden roof, keeping it cool even 7151 • Open 8:30am–10pm during the most consuming heat. A microcosm of Dubai’s cultural It’s a mix of old and new – here and historic past, located near you’ll find moneychangers, the mouth of the creek in the textiles, bargain clothes, glittery old Shindagha conservation Arabian slippers and curios. area, this traditional complex The souk (sometimes referred to is a living museum staffed by as the “Old Souk”) is great fun to potters and weavers practising explore – look out for the tailors crafts as they have for centuries. working on old-fashioned sewing There’s a tented Bedouin village, machines. Lanes off the main drag armoury displays, handicraft are dotted with examples of local shops, camel rides and an traditional architecture, including exhibition of Emirati cooking long wooden balconies, latticed techniques. The Diving Village windows and the occasional focuses on Dubai’s sea-faring windtower (see p27). and pearl-diving history, with displays of dhows and black Artifact from the Hindi Lane and white photographs. Heritage Village 8 MAP K1 Buried away at the back of the Textile Souk, this truly MAKTOUM FAMILY’S SETTLEMENT delightful “Hindi Lane” (as it is ON DUBAI CREEK known locally) is one of Dubai’s best- The Maktoum family’s reign as rulers hidden secrets. Walking into this of Dubai began in 1833, when Sheikh narrow little lane is like stepping into Maktoum bin Buti and around 800 India itself, with its colourful shops tribesmen broke away from the Bani Yas tribe of Abu Dhabi. They settled in selling religious posters, garlands Shindagha, an ideal location for trade of flowers and bindis, and other and for the development of Dubai’s subcontinental paraphernalia. There pearling and fishing industries. is even a tiny Sikh temple tucked away above the shops.

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Traditional Architecture A DAY’S EXPLORATION OF 9 Museum OLD DUBAI

• MAP J1 Al Shindagha waterfront e ee • Open 8am–2pm Sun–Thu • 04 392 se ee e 0093 • www.dubaiculture.gov.ae e

Housed in the beautiful old mansion

of Sheikh Juma, this truly excellent s s museum has absorbing displays on ee the architecture of Dubai and the UAE. s e Displays cover the different building ee materials used – stone, mud, coral stone and gypsum – and traditional e se se construction techniques. There are also exhibits of old tools and life-size MORNING mannequins of builders at work. Start your tour at the Heritage Sheikh Saeed Village and Diving Village at 0 Al-Maktoum House 10am, where you can learn about Emirati crafts and the history of MAP J1 • Al Shindagha • 04 393 7139 Dubai’s pearling industry. Take a • Open 8am–8:30pm Sat–Thu, break to sample fresh lemon and 3–9:30pm Fri • Adm mint juice at any of the nearby Built in 1896 from coral stone covered waterside restaurants. in lime and sand plaster, this was the Afterwards, head in the opposite home of Dubai’s former ruler until his direction to explore the rest of death in 1958. Opened as a museum the Shindagha heritage area (see in 1986, it contains photographs, pp16–17), including a visit to the coins, stamps and documents. The museum within Sheikh Saeed Al- building itself has four windtowers Maktoum House. Following the and verandas. Photographs from the curve of the creek, you will arrive at the wooden-arcaded Textile 1950s to the 1980s show seaplanes Souk. Enjoy a browse of the landing in the creek and reveal the textile and curio stalls here. extraordinary pace of development. Also peep down the alleyways Copies of early oil prospecting for views of restored windtowers agreements with international and small fabric and tailor shops. companies make fascinating reading At the end of the first covered on the Trucial Coast “oil rush”. section of the souk, head left to the creek for a great view across to Deira Spice Souk (see p26). Sheikh Saeed Wend your way through to Ali Bin Al-Maktoum Abi Thalib Rd and to your right is House the unmistakable Dubai Museum and Al Fahidi Fort (see p65), where you can easily spend an interesting, informative hour.

AFTERNOON Head along Al-Fahidi St to the Al Fahidi area where you can enjoy a leisurely courtyard lunch inside the restored building of the Arabian Tea House Café (see pp18–19). Afterwards, spend some time exploring Al Fahidi’s alleys and buildings; don’t miss authentic cuisine at Bastakiah Nights (see p18–19) and the bijou Majlis Gallery (see p38).

See map on p64

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Burjuman Mall, spread out over several stylish levels Burjuman Mall Wafi City 1 MAP J3 • Trade Centre Rd • 04 6 MAP E2 • Oud Metha Rd 352 0222 • Open 10am–midnight • 04 324 4555 • Open 10am–10pm This chic shopping mall has high- Sat–Wed, 10am–midnight Thu–Fri end stores selling exclusive labels This kitsch, Egyptian-themed, and glam accessories. pyramid-shaped building is the very best place to head if you love fashion. Jashanmal “Around 2 the World” Textile Souk MAP J3 • Burjuman Mall • 04 325 7 Wander through this old 4698 • Open 10am–10pm Sat– renovated souk with small shops Wed, 10am–11pm Thu & Fri and stalls selling a medley of goods, Offering bags, suitcases and from textiles and shoes to bargain accessories from multiple brands, clothing and curios (see p66). this is Dubai’s best store for travel requirements. Karama Souk 8 Hunt for cheap Arabian Lamcy Plaza souvenirs, handicrafts and fake 3 MAP H4 • Adjacent to Sheikh designer goods at this shopping Rashid Rd–Um Hurair Rd interchange complex. For an authentic sense of • 04 335 9999 • Open 10am–11pm local life, wander around the gritty Sat–Wed, 10am–midnight Thu & Fri neighbourhood afterwards (see p27). A long-established mall where you’ll find everyday practical items at very Computer Plaza affordable prices. 9 MAP F7 • Al-Ain Centre • 04 358 1020 • Open 10am–10pm Wafi Gourmet This shopping centre, with over 60 4 MAP H5 • Wafi City • 04 324 specialized retail outlets, is the 4433 • Open 10am–10pm Sat–Wed, perfect place to pick up a discounted 10am–midnight Thu & Fri laptop or digital camera. A range Stocked with Arabian cheeses and of software is also available. sweets, barrels of olives and dates, plus boxes of Lebanese delights, this Ajmal is Dubai’s favourite delicatessen. 0 MAP J3 • Burjuman Mall • 04 351 5505 • Open 10am–10pm Satwa Sat–Wed, 10am–11pm Thu & Fri 5 MAP E2 Specializing in Arabic perfumes, This suburb is known for its fabrics, which are stronger and spicier than tailors and Indian sweet shops – it is Western fragrances, this store will where the local people go to shop. mix you a signature scent.

Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED: Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER 068-069_Top_10_Dubai.indd(SourceReport 68 v.1.9) 17/05/2017 12:55 Date 24th June 2015 Size 100mm x 191mm Bur Dubai ❮❮ 69 Restaurants and Cafés

Ravi PRICE CATEGORIES 1 • MAP E4 Satwa Roundabout For a three-course meal for one with half • Open 5am–3am • No alcohol • D a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), With its famed butter chicken, taxes and extra charges. Ravi is something of an institution. D Under AED 100 DD AED 100–400 An inexpensive local favourite, this DDD Over AED 400 eatery serves Pakistani cuisine, and keeps the people of the city well fed. The tables are always packed. Arabian Tea House Café 7 MAP K2 • 04 353 5071 • Open Lemongrass 8am–10pm 2 MAP H4 • Near Lamcy Plaza For a sense of Arabia, enjoy lunch at • 04 334 2325 • Open noon–11:30pm this alcohol-free, bougainvillea-clad • No alcohol • DD historic courtyard (see p19). An innovative and affordable Thai restaurant where you can savour Peppercrab some fresh, authentic dishes. 8 MAP E2 • Grand Hyatt Dubai • 04 317 2222 • Open 7–11:30pm Manhattan Grill (till 1am Thu & Fri) • DDD 3 MAP E2 • Grand Hyatt • 04 Devour a tasty, peppery crab at this 317 2222 • Open 12:30–3pm & Singaporean seafood restaurant 7–11:30pm • DDD (aprons and pliers are provided). Dig into high-quality juicy steaks at this top-end American diner-style Kan Zaman restaurant. Set menu and vegetarian 9 MAP K1 • Heritage Village options are available too, and there • 04 324 3000 • Open 9am–11pm is a really superb wine list. • No alcohol • D Great Arabic fare in a creekside Khan Murjan setting. Watch the water taxis while 4 MAP E2 • Souk Khan Murjan, you enjoy mezze and fresh juices. Wafi • 04 327 9795 • Open 10am– 12:30am • DD Asha’s A lovely courtyard restaurant that 0 MAP E2 • Pyramids Wafi City locals flock to for fantastic Arabian • 04 324 4100 • Open noon–3pm & food. Dishes range from Lebanese 7:30pm–midnight • DDD staples through to Egyptian, Moroccan Owned by Bollywood singing sensation and Iranian classics, alongside Asha Bhosle, this chic restaurant has some traditional Gulf dishes. a loyal local following for its Indian classics and daring creations. Bastakiah Nights 5 With its rooftop offering unrivalled views of old Dubai, this real gem of a restaurant is a must-visit for authentic Arabic and Emirati cuisine (see p19). Marcos 6 MAP E2 • Wafi City • 04 324 4100 • Open noon–3pm & 7pm– midnight • DD This stylish restaurant serves scrumptious Italian dishes in a chic setting. Asha’s eye-catching interior

See map on p64

068-069_Top_10_Dubai.indd 69 17/05/2017 12:55 70 ❯❯ Dubai and Abu Dhabi Area by Area Sheikh Zayed Road and Downtown Dubai Dubai’s key artery, Sheikh Zayed Road, is a defining symbol of the city’s meteoric development, flanked with a giddying array of soaring skyscrapers of every imaginable shape and size. Even Sheikh Zayed Road’s futuristic skyline, however, is eclipsed by the record-breaking Downtown Dubai development just to the south. Here you’ll find some of the city’s most ambitious modern mega-developments, including the world’s largest mall, its biggest fountain, and the Burj Khalifa, the tallest building on the planet.

Emirates Towers 1 MAP D6 • Sheikh Zayed Rd • 04 319 8999 Two triangular twin towers, clad in aluminium and silver glass, soar into the Sheikh Zayed Road‘s skyline: the Jumeirah Emirates Towers. The taller is an office block, where Dubai ruler Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum has his office, and the other a 400-bedroom luxury hotel joined by a central podium con taining a shopping boulevard. The hotel and boulevard have a great choice of restaurants and bars. Shopping options include international fashion from top The gleaming Emirates Tower designers, jewellery and antiques.

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Dubai World 3 Trade Centre MAP E5 • Sheikh Zayed Rd • 04 332 1000 • www.dwtc. com Hard to believe today when you see it dwarfed by the skyscrapers of Sheikh Zayed Rd, but back in 1979 the DWTC was the tallest building in the city, opened with great pomp by Sheikh Rashid and Queen Elizabeth II of England. It has played an important role in the Dubai Fountain puts on a display city’s development, a fact reflected by the continued use of its Dubai Fountain image on the AED 100 note. Today, 2 MAP C6 • Displays daily every it also comprises 14 huge exhibition 30 min at 6–11pm, plus 1pm & halls. The Dubai International 1:30pm (except Fri) Convention Centre next door can Filling the space between the Burj accommodate more than 10,000. Khalifa, Dubai Mall and Souk al Bahar is the spectacular Dubai DIFC and the Gate Fountain, the world’s largest, 4 MAP D6 • Sheikh Zayed Rd featuring an extraordinary array of • 04 362 2222 jets illuminated with 6,000 lights Behind Emirates Towers is the Gate, and capable of firing plumes of the striking 15-storey architectural water 150 m (492 ft) into the air. signature of the Dubai International Set in the middle of a lake, the Financial Centre (DIFC). This “city fountain puts on an amazing show within a city” is now a global financial after dusk when colourful sprays of hub with its own civil and commercial water erupt dancing in time to an laws. The Gate is shaped like a bridge – accompanying musical soundtrack. DIFC is designed to bridge the gap between the financial centres of SHEIKH ZAYED ROAD AND DOWNTOWN DUBAI London and New York in the West and Hong Kong and Tokyo in the

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Along the souk’s pleasant waterfront promenade there is also a host of eateries, from upscale restaurants to cafés and lounge bars. This is the perfect spot for a stroll before you attempt the shopping madness of the Dubai Mall, which is just a few minutes’ walk away. Meydan Stable Tour 7 MAP D2 • Meydan Racecourse • 04 381 3405 • Open Sep–Apr • www.stabletours.meydan.ae The tour of this world-class facility includes the chance to observe thoroughbred training in action. Flamingos at Ras Al Khor Sanctuary The morning tour starts at 7am with a trackside breakfast, after Ras Al Khor Wildlife which you are given a behind-the- 5 Sanctuary scenes look at the saddling paddock, MAP E2 • Ras Al Khor • 04 606 6822 jockeys’ lounge, parade ring and the • Open 9am–4pm Sat–Thu • Free glamorous VIP suites that play entry to the hides; groups of more host to royals and celebrities. than 10 require permits Pink flamingos, waders and other The Palace birds can be viewed on a marshy 8 MAP C6 • Downtown Burj reserve at the inner end of Dubai Khalifa • 04 428 7888 • www.the Creek. This urban reserve has two address.com hides: Flamingo and Mangrove. Tucked away behind Souk al Both are fitted out with telescopes, Bahar is the opulent Palace hotel. binoculars and picture panels. The hotel’s exquisite Arabian-style façade and palm-lined ornamental Souk Al Bahar pool are sights in their own right, 6 MAP C6 • Sheikh Zayed Rd made all the more memorable by • Open 10am–10pm Sat–Thu, the hotel’s incongruous juxtaposition 2–10pm Fri • www.soukalbahar.ae with the futuristic Burj Khalifa (see Next to the futuristic Burj Khalifa is a pp12–13) rising directly behind. The slice of old, albeit newly built, Arabia. hotel’s Thiptara restaurant (see p75) Souk Al Bahar is an Arabesque offers fine Thai dining and peerless shopping mall with over 100 retail views of the Dubai Fountain. outlets including independent boutiques, souvenir shops and antique stores.

Exterior of the Palace

070-073_Top_10_Dubai.indd 72 17/05/2017 12:55 Sheikh Zayed Road and Downtown Dubai ❮❮ 73

The Dubai Mall A STROLL AMONGST THE 9 MAP C6 • Next to the Burj SKYSCRAPERS Khalifa • Open 10am–10pm Sun– e e Wed, 10am–midnight Thu–Sat • www.thedubaimall.com

The ultimate shrine to consumerism, espee this mall has a vast array of shops e es and other attractions, including the es e Dubai Aquarium, an ice rink and a skeleton of a 150-million-year-old diplodocus dinosaur. Highlights e include the Arabian-themed souk e e ess section and the ultra-chic Fashion Avenue. The selection of places to eat include some nice alfresco places MORNING overlooking the Dubai Fountain. Begin the morning with a stroll down Sheikh Zayed Road (see pp12–13), starting at the Emirates Towers (see p70) and admiring the area’s many super-tall skyscrapers. Shakespeare & Co (see p75), about halfway down the strip, is a great place to get some breakfast or a coffee. Head on to the Dubai Mall and spend time exploring the shops here. If shopping doesn’t appeal, there are plenty of other attractions at the mall, including the Dubai Aquarium or the chance to go for a cooling spin at the ice rink. Lunch can be found in one of the mall’s myriad cafés.

AFTERNOON The Dubai Mall, a retail heaven After lunch head to the pretty, Arabian-themed Souk Al Bahar, Burj Khalifa where more shops await. Then 0 Named after the UAE president pop into the Palace hotel for tea Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed Al Nahyan, before making a late afternoon visit the Burj Khalifa is far and away the to the observation deck of the Burj Khalifa for Dubai’s most tallest man-made structure on the amazing views (be sure to reserve planet. Most of the tower is residential tickets in advance). but a pair of observation decks are open to visitors and the base of the As dusk begins to fall, go out onto building houses the world’s first the promenade surrounding Burj Khalifa Lake (see p12) and watch Armani Hotel (see pp12–13). the show-stopping Dubai Fountain spring into life. Next, head to the Address Boulevard (04 423 8888) and GODOLPHIN enjoy a snack at the sophis ticated The famous Godolphin racing stable lobby lounge that features a selec- was established by the equestrian- tion of gourmet sandwiches, scones loving Maktoum Royal Family of Dubai and handpicked signature blends. in 1994 and has won Group One races Alternatively, head to the oriental- in 11 countries. It bred the great Dubai style Karma Kafé (see p75) in Souk Millennium, who won the Dubai World Al Bahar or to one of the many Cup 2000 by over six lengths and sired waterside res taurants to end your 59 offspring (see www.godolphin.com). Downtown Dubai day with dinner.

See map on pp70–71

070-073_Top_10_Dubai.indd 73 17/05/2017 12:55 74 ❯❯ Dubai and Abu Dhabi Area by Area Bars Double Decker 1 MAP C6 • Roda Al Murooj Hotel, Financial Centre Rd • 04 321 1111 • Open12pm–3am A lively pub with decor themed after the famous London red Routemaster buses. The programme of music and other events keeps things busy.

Alta Badia Bar Colonial-style interior at Long’s Bar 2 MAP D6 • Emirates Towers Hotel • 04 319 8771 • Open 6pm–3am Long’s Bar • www.jumeirah.com 7 MAP D5 • Towers Rotana Hotel This sophisticated bar has unbeatable • 04 312 2202 • Open 12pm–3am views and a good range of cocktails. • www.rotana.com This colonial-style bar, with its small Cin Cin’s dance floor, claims to have the 3 MAP E5 • Fairmont Hotel longest bar in the whole of the UAE. • 04 311 8316 • Open 7pm–2am • www.fairmont.com Vault This chic champagne bar has a great 8 MAP B6 • Business Bay • 04 snack menu with freshly-shucked 414 3000 • Open 5pm–3am • www. oysters and Wagyu beefburgers. jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com Vault is one of the world’s highest The Balcony Bar bars, on the 72nd floor of the 4 MAP C5 • Shangri- JW Marriott Marquis hotel. La Hotel • 04 405 2703 Svelte decor and the • Open 9am–3am upmarket ambience An ideal place are complemented to unwind, this by sweeping views swanky restaurant through 360° windows. overlooks the hotel’s chic lobby. Fibber McGees Enjoy an array of 9 MAP D5 • Off drinks while soaking up Sheikh Zayed Rd • 04 332 the ambience. A dish on the 2400 • Open 8am–2am menu at Vault • www.fibbersdubai.com. Asia Asia Dubai’s best traditional pub 5 MAP B2 • Pier 7, Dubai Marina is tricky to find (check directions on • 04 276 5900 • Open 4pm–1am Sat– the website) but worth the effort. Wed, 4pm–2am Thu & Fri • www.asia- The homely interior transports you asia.com straight to Ireland, as do the draught An urbane dining destination, this Kilkenny and Guinness. There’s good restaurant serves pan-Asian cuisine food, too, plus regular live music. inspired by exotic places such as Thailand, Shanghai, and Kyoto. Zinc 0 MAP E5 • Crowne Plaza Hotel Blue Bar • 04 331 1111 • Open 10pm–3am 6 MAP E5 • Novotel Hotel, • www.crowneplaza.com behind World Trade Centre • 04 332 Always packed, this popular bar and 0000 • Open 12pm–2am club has an ever-changing line-up of A low-key relaxed bar where you can live music and local DJs playing a chill to the tunes of the resident band. variety of music genres.

Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED: Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER 074-075_Top_10_Dubai.indd(SourceReport 74 v.1.9) 17/05/2017 12:55 Date 24th June 2015 Size 100mm x 191mm Sheikh Zayed Road and Downtown Dubai ❮❮ 75 Restaurants

Hoi An PRICE CATEGORIES 1 • MAP C5 Shangri-La Hotel, For a three-course meal for one with half Sheikh Zayed Rd • 04 343 8888 a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), • Open 7pm–midnight • DDD taxes and extra charges. Vietnamese fare served in elegant D Under AED 100 DD AED 100–400 surroundings with a range of dishes DDD Over AED 400 and excellent service (see p47).

At.mosphere overlooking the magnificent Burj 2 MAP C6 • 122nd Floor, Burj Khalifa and the Dubai Fountain. Khalifa • 04 888 3828 • Open 12:30– 3pm, 6:30–11:30pm daily (until 2am Al Nafoorah in the lounge bar) • DDD 6 MAP E6 • Emirates Towers The world’s highest restaurant, this Boulevard • 04 319 8760 • Open place offers top-notch European-style noon–3:30pm & 6–11:30pm • DD fine dining in incredible surroundings This smart basement restaurant is on the 122nd floor of the Burj Khalifa. a contender for Dubai’s best Arabian restaurant. Food includes immaculate Alta Badia mezze, succulent grills and fish, 3 MAP D6 • Emirates Towers and there’s a sheesha tent. • 04 319 8771 • Open noon–3pm & 6–midnight • DDD Teatro This elegant restaurant on the 51st 7 MAP D5 • Towers Rotana Hotel floor serves authentic Italian cuisine. • 04 343 8000 • Open 6pm–2am • DD Try to get a table by the window. The great cross-Continental dishes here have made this restaurant a Exchange Grill firm favourite for many years. 4 MAP E5 • Fairmont Hotel • 04 332 5555 • Open 7pm–midnight • DDD Noodle House Visit the best steakhouse in town, 8 MAP D6 • Emirates Towers which serves delicious melt-in-the Boulevard • 04 319 8757 • Open mouth Kobo steak. noon–midnight • DD Visit this place for a quick, affordable Karma Kafé and very tasty bowl of spicy noodles. 5 MAP C6 • Souk Al Bahar, Downtown Burj Khalifa • 04 423 Shakespeare & Co 0909 • Open 3pm–1am • DD 9 MAP D6 • Al Saqr Business Enjoy classic Asian fusion food in the Tower, 37th St, off Sheikh Zayed Rd• 04 plush interior or on the lovely terrace 331 1757 • Open 7am–midnight • DD Characterized by quirky 19th-century parlour-style decor, this restaurant serves Western and Arabian cuisine. Thiptara 0 MAP C6 • The Palace Hotel, Old Town • 04 428 7961 • Open 6– 11:30pm • DDD Set in a beautiful wooden pavilion on the lakeside, this fine-dining restaurant specializes in Thai seafood. Reservations are recommended.

Oriental decor in the Karma Kafé

See map on pp70–71

074-075_Top_10_Dubai.indd 75 17/05/2017 12:55 76 ❯❯ Dubai and Abu Dhabi Area by Area Jumeirah Stretching down the coast southwest from the port area, Jumeirah is one of the most glamorous and sought-after of all the city suburbs. It’s no surprise that residential property here is pricey – it’s the ultimate location for a place in the sun and the quiet leafy streets are filled with bougainvillea-clad luxury villas. At the southern end of the district the endless low-rise suburbs are punctuated by three of the city’s most famous landmarks: the iconic “seven-star” Burj Al Arab Jumeirah, the enormous wave-shaped Jumeirah Beach Hotel and the vast mock-Arabian Madinat Jumeirah complex (home to the beautiful Souk Madinat Jumeirah). Staying here is an expensive pleasure, but the area’s beaches, bars and restaurants are amongst the finest in the city, while the Wild Wadi Water Park offers watery thrills and spills for those energetic enough to leave the beach.

Burj Al Arab Jumeirah 1 Visible from almost anywhere in Jumeirah, the Burj Al Arab Jumeirah, an iconic luxury hotel, is a symbol for the city itself and is distinguished by its unusual shape mirroring the billowing sail of a dhow. Reservations are needed to visit the interior of this opulent hotel (see pp24–5). For a great close-up view of the exterior, drop into the Jumeirah Beach Hotel and take the super-fast glass The Burj Al Arab Jumeirah elevator to the top floor(see p113).

JUMEIRAH

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Jumeirah Mosque, a fine example of modern Islamic architecture

Jumeirah Mosque over 6,000 tonnes of snow, it offers 2 Rising proudly above Jumeirah five slopes, linked by chairlifts and Road, the imposing Fatimid-style tow lifts, to cater to all ski levels, Jumeirah Mosque is one of the city’s including the longest black indoor most impressive and attractive run in the world. There’s also a mosques (see pp20–21). snow park for little ones, plus the chance to meet the resident Ski Dubai Snow Park Gentoo penguins (see p42). 3 MAP C2 • Mall of the Emirates • 04 409 4000 • Open 10am–11pm Safa Park Sun–Wed, 10am–midnight Thu–Sat 4 MAP A5 • Adm • www.skidxb.com A ride on the giant Ferris wheel here You can’t miss Ski Dubai from the offers the best views of this huge Sheikh Zayed Road, jutting out like landscaped green park stretching a giant space-age tube. Filled with from Al Wasl Road to Sheikh Zayed Road (although construction work on JUMEIRAH the Dubai Canal has reduced the size). It is hugely popular with local residents, many of whom make the Arabian Gulf most of its specially-sprung perimeter

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076-079_Top_10_Dubai.indd 77 17/05/2017 12:55 78 ❯❯ Dubai and Abu Dhabi Area by Area

JUMEIRAH’S BEACHES AND DUBAI’S BEACH CULTURE All of the hotels in Jumeirah are fronted by their own private stretches of golden beach onto the Arabian Gulf, but there are plenty of public beaches too, which fill up at weekends. There are also family-friendly beach parks with a small entrance charge: the best in this area is the Jumeirah Beach Park.

Majlis Ghorfat 6 um al Sheef MAP D2 • 17 St • 04 226 0286 • 8:30am–10:30pm Sun–Thu, 3– 10pm Fri & Sat • Adm Hidden amongst the suburban sprawl, the Majlis Ghorfat um al Sheef is the only historic building to survive outside the old city centre. Built in 1955, this Attractions at Wild Wadi Water Park quaint two-storey structure served as a summer retreat for visionary former Wild Wadi Water Park ruler Sheikh Rashid, with sleeping 5 MAP C2 • Jumeirah Rd • 04 348 quarters below and a majlis (meeting 4444 • Mar–May & Sep–Oct: 10am– room) above. The garden has date 7pm; Jun–Aug: 10am–8pm; Nov–Feb: palm trees watered using traditional 10am–6pm • Adm • www.wildwadi. falaj irrigation channels. com • Cashless payment system using electronic waterproof wristband Jumeirah Beach Park This world-class water park offers a 7 MAP A4 great day out to suit all ages and This lovely green park (closed for bravery levels with 30 water-fuelled renovation until late 2017), backs rides and attractions. Thrill-seekers onto a beautiful white-sand beach. will not be disappointed by its most You can access the beach from the challenging ride, the Jumeirah park along wooden walkways and Sceirah – the tallest and fastest free- there is plenty of shade on fall water slide outside the US. Well- the sand under the palm trees. staffed by lifeguards and with plenty It’s equipped with lifeguards, and has of food outlets, it makes a fun day out. good facilities and some small cafés.

Shoreline at Jumeirah Beach Park

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Madinat Jumeirah A DAY BY THE SEA 8 MAP C2 • Al Sufouh Rd This vast leisure and entertainment complex is a major focus of the Madinat Jumeirah area. It has three hotels Jumeirah Jumeirah linked by waterways navigated by Bahri Bar Beach Park Lime ree Caf silent battery-powered abras. There ouk Madinat Jumeirah are more than 45 restaurants, bars T Burj Al Arab Jumeirah Jumeirah and cafés, many with waterside Mosue views, with the seafood restaurant Dar al AL Masaf AL Pierchic (see p81) on a pier that MARQADH SATWA stretches into the Arabian Gulf. Here also is the Souk Madinat MORNING Jumeirah (see p80), a reconstruction of a traditional Arabian bazaar. Start your day with breakfast on the outdoor terrace of Lime Tree Café (see p81). Enjoy the gentle morning sun as you sip on some coffee or a juice. Then take an insightful morning tour of the Jumeirah Mosque (see pp20–21) for the chance to look inside one of Dubai’s finest Islamic buildings. Drive or hire a taxi to Jumeirah Beach Park, where you can take a safe swim or laze about on a sunbed under the palm trees.

AFTERNOON

Abras at Madinat Jumeirah Leave at lunchtime and head to Madinat Jumeirah, where you Mall of the Emirates can enjoy a leisurely late lunch at a huge choice of restaurants, 9 • MAP C2 Interchange 4 many overlooking the waterways. • 04 409 9000 • www.mallofthe Afterwards spend an hour or emirates.com two window-shopping for Dubai’s swankiest retail complex has souvenirs or browsing the lovely more than 500 shops, selling every Arabian-style Souk Madinat product you can possibly dream of. Jumeirah (see p80) here. There’s also a Harvey Nichols and As evening approaches, head to Debenhams. Other attractions one of Dubai’s most beautiful include a multi-screen cinema and bars, the Bahri Bar (see p81) kids’ play area Magic Planet (see p42), housed in the luxurious Mina plus dozens of cafés and restaurants. A’Salam hotel (see p113). From this beautiful alfresco spot, you can sip a cocktail whilst enjoying Al Quoz Galleries superb views of the Burj Al Arab 0 MAP C2 • www.alserkal Jumeirah and watching the sun avenue.ae set over the Gulf. There are The gritty industrial area of Al Quoz numerous places to eat dinner is one of Dubai’s more unlikely nearby, but for pure romance attractions thanks to the cutting- head to the delectable Pai Thai (see p81) in the nearby Dar al edge art galleries that have moved Masyaf hotel. With fine Thai into the area. Many local galleries cuisine in a magical setting which are relocating into the Alserkal overlooks the meandering water- Avenue arts centre on Street 8, ways of the Medinat and the Burj, including leading names like Gallery a meal here is hard to beat. It is Isabelle van den Eynde and Green recommended to book in advance. Art Gallery (see pp38–9).

See map on pp76–7

076-079_Top_10_Dubai.indd 79 17/05/2017 12:55 80 ❯❯ Dubai and Abu Dhabi Area by Area Places to Shop Mall of the Emirates Pride of Kashmir 1 Prepare to shop until you 6 MAP C2 • Souk Madinat drop at one of the biggest shopping Jumeirah • 04 368 6110 • Open centres in the region (see p79). 10am–11pm • www.prideof kashmir.com Camel Company A craft and souvenir shop packed 2 MAP C2 • Souk Madinat with antique and modern rugs from Jumeirah • 04 368 6048 • Open Iran, Kashmir and Turkey. 10am–11pm • www.camelcompany.ae Dubai’s cutest selection of cuddly Boxpark toy camels and other dromedary- 7 MAP D2 • Al Wasl Rd • Open themed souvenirs – perfect for kids. 10am–10pm (till midnight Thu–Sat) • www.boxpark.ae Times Square Center A funky retail space made up of 3 MAP C2 • Sheikh Zayed Rd minimalist cuboid buildings with the • 04 341 8020 • Open 10am–10pm odd shipping container poking out, • www.timessquarecenter.ae housing eclectic and offbeat shops. This smallish mall features an impressive electronics store. It also Gallery One has its very own ice lounge where 8 MAP C2 • Souk Madinat everything, from the tables to the Jumeirah • 04 368 6055 • Open glasses, is made out of ice. 10am–11pm • www.g-1.com This commercial gallery specializes The Village Mall in selling beautiful but relatively 4 MAP D4 • Jumeirah Rd • 04 affordable limited-edition Arabian- 344 9514 • Open 10am–10pm Sat– and Asian-themed artworks. Thu, 2–10pm Fri An intriguing mix of niche upmarket Mercato Mall boutiques fill this pretty shopping 9 MAP C4 • Jumeirah Beach Rd centre, with its archways, plants • 04 344 4161 • Open 10am–10pm and fountains. It is the perfect place • www.mercatoshoppingmall.com to find a one-of-a-kind gift. An Italian-themed mall with 90 shops, restaurants and cafés. With a fun Souk Madinat Jumeirah soft play area, it is great for kids. 5 MAP C2 • Al Sufouh Rd • Open 10am–11pm Jumeirah Plaza This magical bazaar has art, jewellery, 0 MAP D4 • Jumeirah Rd antiques and handicrafts, interspersed • 04 349 0766 • Open 10am– with great bars and restaurants. 10pm Sat–Thu, 1:30–10pm Fri This small mall, popular with local Souk residents, has a pleasant Madinat coffee shop with an Jumeirah outdoor terrace.

080-081_Top_10_Dubai.indd 80 15/06/2017 14:54 Jumeirah ❮❮ 81 Restaurants and Bars

PRICE CATEGORIES Bahri Bar 7 • For a three-course meal for one with half MAP C2 Mina A’ Salam, a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), Madinat Jumeirah • 04 366 8888 taxes and extra charges. • Open 4pm–1am D Under AED 100 DD AED 100–400 With a large terrace and views of the DDD Over AED 400 Burj Al Arab Jumeirah light shows, this is an ideal spot for a sundowner. Almaz by Momo 1 MAP C2 • Mall of the Emirates • 04 409 8877 • Open 10am–1am • No alcohol • DD Set up by famous restauranteur Mourad Mazouz, this is the hippest Moroccan restaurant in town. Zheng He’s 2 MAP C1 • Mina A’ Salem, Midinat Jumeirah • 04 366 6730 • Open noon–11:30am • DDD Dine on fresh seafood and Chinese cuisine by the harbourfront. Trattoria Toscana 3 MAP C2 • Madinat Jumeirah Elegant surroundings at Bahri Bar • 04 366 6730 • Open noon–midnight • DD Sho Cho’s Delicious Italian fare is served in a 8 MAP E4 • Dubai Marine mock Venetian waterway setting. Beach Resort & Spa • 04 346 1111 • Open 6pm–3am Pierchic This super-chic Japanese bar 4 MAP C1 • Al Qasr, Madinat offers a gorgeous terrace Jumeirah • 04 366 6730 • Open overlooking the Gulf. The interior 12:30–3pm Sat–Fri & 6:15–midnight walls are filled with fish tanks. Sat–Sun • DDD Book a terrace table at this seafood 360° restaurant on a wooden pier. 9 MAP C1 • Jumeirah Beach Hotel • 04 406 8741 • Open 5pm– Lime Tree Café 2am Sat–Thu, 4pm–3am Fri 5 MAP D4 • Jumeirah Rd Located in a glass building perched • 04 348 8498 • Open 7:30am– out at sea at the end of a breakwater, 6:30pm • No alcohol • D this is a great place for a sunset drink. This homely café with a shady outdoor terrace serves healthy Pai Thai homemade lunches, soups, 0 MAP C2 • Dar al Masyaf, juices, tea and coffee. Madinat Jumeirah • 04 432 3232 • Open 6:30–11:30pm • DDD Maria Bonita’s Taco Shop Romance is in the air at this magical 6 MAP C2 • Umm Al Sheif St restaurant set above the Madinat • 04 395 5576 • Open noon– Jumeirah waterways. The chic midnight • No alcohol • D decor and memorable views from Be transported to Mexico for good- the candlelit terrace are spectacular, value tacos, tortillas and salsas. as is the Thai cuisine (see p47).

See map on pp76–7

080-081_Top_10_Dubai.indd 81 17/05/2017 12:55 82 ❯❯ Dubai and Abu Dhabi Area by Area Dubai Marina and Palm Jumeirah Far south of the city you’ll find the most evidence of modern Dubai’s growth. Little over a decade ago most of this area was nothing but sand and sea. Now, it’s a whole new city within a city. The skyscrapers of the Dubai Marina district run unbroken for several kilometres along the coast, enclosing a futuristic marina that is backed by a swathe of beach and huge resorts. Offshore lies the Palm Jumeirah, the world’s largest artificial island, crowned by the Atlantis resort. The marina

DUBAI MARINA AND PALM JUMEIRAH

Top 10 Sights Palm Jumeirah see pp83–5 Atlantis Resort Arabian Restaurants Gulf see p87 PALM ea o man map Jumeirah JUMEIRAH Cafés and Bars Zabeel see p86 Saray

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T T Jumeirah T T T aes Naheel Toers DAMAC Properties

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Ibn Battuta Mall Boat Trips at the Marina 1 MAP A2 • Emirates Hills 3 The marina development is • 04 362 1900 • Open 10am– definitely a place best appreciated 10pm (till midnight Thu–Sat) from the water, and there • www.ibnbattutamall.com are a range of boat trips Dubai’s most bizarre mall by a available to make this mile, the Ibn Battuta is designed possible. The cheapest around the travels of the and simplest option is to legendary Moroccan traveller. take a ride on one of the The mall is themed after six of water taxis, which shuttle the countries visited by Battuta, up and down the marina including a bright red Chinese itself, and there are also section (complete with a junk after-dark dinner cruises ship), an Indian section with aboard traditional dhows. a life-size replica elephant, Alternatively, catch a ride and a Tunisian village at on the Dubai Ferry (see dusk. Best of all is the p105) that runs between Persian zone, arranged Bur Dubai and the marina around a spectacularly or go for a sightseeing tiled, mosque-like dome. tour with the Yellow Boats (see p55). Lost 2 Chambers The Marina MAP B1 • Atlantis, 4 MAP B2 the Palm • 04 Centrepiece of the Dubai 426 0000 • Open Marina development is the 10am–10pm Indian elephant, expansive marina itself, lined • Adm; under 3s free Ibn Battuta Mall with millionaires’ boats and • www.atlantisthepalm.com surrounded by skyscrapers Palm Jumeirah Located inside Atlantis, The Palm, on all sides. It is particularly s es the atmospheric Lost Chambers is impressive when illuminated after a vast aquarium filled with colourful dark. Created out of a man-made PALM shoals of tropical fish and other sea inlet running parallel to the ocean, ea o man map e JUMEIRAH ee marine creatures, including sharks, the marina is the best part of 3 km piranhas and seahorses. Assorted (2 miles) long. Disoriented sharks

metres fake “ruins” have been placed amid and even whales have been known the waters, masquerading as the to swim into it from time to time. yards DUBAI MARINA remains of the legendary ancient AL Mediterranean city of Atlantis itself. Underwater hall, Lost Chambers SUFOUH m JEBEL ALI JUMEIRAH e ISLANDS miles e s s

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Aquaventure and 6 Dolphin Bay MAP B1 • Atlantis, The Palm • 04 426 1030 • Open 10am–sunset • Adm • www.atlantisthepalm.com The Aquaventure water park offers state-of-the-art rides and attractions. The highlight is the huge Leap of Faith water slide, which lands you in a transparent tunnel in a shark- filled lagoon. The adjacent Dolphin Bay gives visitors the unforgettable opportunity to swim with the resort’s resident bottlenose dolphins, offering shallow-water programmes for kids and deep-water interactions for stronger swimmers. Marina Walk 7 MAP B2 Interior of Atlantis, The Palm Encircling both sides of Dubai Marina is the pedestrianized Marina Walk. Atlantis, The Palm An array of cafés and restaurants 5 Dominating the far end of the line the waterfront here, along with Palm Jumeirah is the vast Atlantis, the swanky Marina Mall (see p50). At The Palm resort. This is one of Dubai’s the northern end of the marina, look most distinctive landmarks, a soaring out for the unmistakeable 73-storey pink colossus arranged around a Cayan Tower with its remarkable vast Arabian-style archway. The twisted shape – the entire building lavish interior is a riot of gold columns rotates over 90°. When this residential and marble floors. Attractions tower opened in 2013 it was the include the Lost Chambers (see p83), world’s tallest high-rise building, Aquaventure and Dolphin Bay, and but it has now been surpassed by a vast swathe of beach (see p113). the Burj Khalifa (see pp12–13).

People stepping out while enjoying the views from Marina Walk

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The Walk at JBR A DAY ON LAND AND OUT AT SEA 8 MAP B2 Running along the beachfront is s es the Walk at JBR, a long boulevard of shops, restaurants, cafés and hotels s es backed by the huge towers of the Jumeirah Beach Residence, which is e one of the city’s most relaxed places

for an outdoor stroll. Adjacent, the e e Beach at JBR is amongst Dubai’s most attractive recent developments, e with a low-rise cluster of shops and T e restaurants arranged around pretty piazzas and fountains. MORNING Start your day by going for a pleasant stroll around the marina (see p83). Spend an hour or so exploring the shops in the Marina Mall or take a boat trip (see p83). Next, walk over to the nearby Marina Beach. Take some time to catch the rays or maybe try your hand at one of the water sports on offer there. Afterwards, explore the shops along the Walk at JBR The Palm Monorail crossing the Gulf and grab some lunch in one of Palm Monorail the many cafés and restaurants. 9 MAP B1–2 • Open 10am–10pm AFTERNOON (trains every 20–30 min) • Adm The only place you really get a proper After lunch, catch the Dubai view of the Palm Jumeirah is from tram to Palm Monorail station and ride the Palm Monorail the air. If your budget can’t quite across to Atlantis, The Palm, with stretch to a helicopter ride, the Palm bird’s-eye views across the huge Monorail offers the best overview of Palm Jumeirah along the way. the development, running on a raised Have a look around the vast track across the island and offering Atlantis resort’s lavish interior great views of the Palm and the and visit the spectacular Lost skyscrapers of Dubai Marina behind. Chambers aquarium (see p83). Marina Beach EVENING 0 MAP B2 Hop back on board the monorail One of the marina’s top draws is its and head back to the mainland. superb swathe of white sand – the From Palm Monorail station best free beach in the city. The size continue to the nearby One&Only of the beach means that there’s Royal Mirage (see p113). You can spend an enjoyable evening usually plenty of space to lounge on here admiring the hotel’s magical (although it does get busy, particularly Moorish architecture and endless at weekends) and there are various palm trees. Start with a drink facilities including showers and at Moroccan-style The Rooftop changing rooms, plus loungers terrace bar (see p86), followed for hire. This is also the best place by dinner at one of the resorts in Dubai to arrange water sports, excellent restaurants. The pool- fringed Eauzone (see p87) is with a wide selection of activities particularly romantic, but you available, including sailing, water- will need to book ahead. skiing, kayaking and banana boats.

See map on p82

082-085_Top_10_Dubai.indd 85 17/05/2017 14:14 86 ❯❯ Dubai and Abu Dhabi Area by Area Cafés and Bars The Rooftop Stereo Arcade 1 MAP B2 • Arabian Court, 5 MAP B2 • DoubleTree by One&Only Royal Mirage, Al Sufouh Hilton, the Walk at JBR, Dubai Marina • 04 399 9999 • Open 5pm–1:30am • 052 618 2424 • Open 6pm–3am Visit this Moroccan-styled bar for • www.facebook.com/StereoArcade views over the Arabian Gulf and a A rustic European-style pub with relaxed drink under a star-filled sky. an attached room full of vintage 1980s arcade video games that are Chandelier free to play when you buy a drink. 2 MAP B2 • Dubai Marina • 04 366 3606 • Open 10am–2am Nasimi Beach • No alcohol • DD 6 MAP B1 • Atlantis, The Palm, This casual Lebanese restaurant is Palm Jumeirah • 04 426 2626 • Open good for a light lunch or evening meal. 9am–1am Sun–Thu, 9am–2am Fri–Sat It has a pleasant outdoor terrace, With an outside terrace spilling onto where you can also sample sheesha. the sand, what better way is there to unwind than sprawled out on a Bar 44 beanbag with an ice-cold drink? 3 MAP B2 • Grosvenor House, Dubai Marina • 04 399 8888 • Open Zero Gravity 4pm–2am Fri–Wed, 4pm–3am Thu 7 MAP B1 • Al Sufouh Rd • 04 • www.bar44-dubai.com 399 0009 • Open 10am till late (from This top-floor swanky bar with comfy 8am Fri & Sat) • www.0-gravity.ae • D sofas and a giant balcony offers This beachfront bar-restaurant is a 44 different types of champagne. lovely place to linger over a sundowner. A selection of food is served Johnny Rockets from breakfast until late at night. 4 MAP B2 • Marina Walk (south), Dubai Marina • 04 368 2339 • Open Masaad 10am–1am • DD 8 MAP B2 • The Walk at JBR, Re-creating the look of a 1950s US Dubai Marina • 04 362 9002 • Open diner, this eatery serves milkshakes 11am–11pm • www.massaadfarm and the very best burgers in town. totable.com • D One of the best cheap places to eat in Dubai Marina, this tiny café dishes up excellent Arabian light meals using fresh, locally sourced ingredients. Voda Bar 9 MAP B1 • Jumeirah Zabeel Saray, Palm Jumeirah • 04 453 0444 • Open 6pm–3am • www.jumeirah.com Pod-like chairs and arctic-blue lighting give this funky bar the look of a futuristic ice-cavern. Barasti 0 MAP B2 • Le Meridien Mina Seyahi Beach Resort & Marina • 04 318 1313 • Open 11am–3:30am Barasti comes alive on the weekends, when revellers sprawl out across the Diner-style interior at Johnny Rockets sand. There is live music most nights.

Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED: Two-column, 8.5pt grid “UK” LAYER 086-087_Top_10_Dubai.indd(SourceReport 86 v.1.9) 17/05/2017 14:14 Date 24th June 2015 Size 100mm x 191mm Dubai Marina and Palm Jumeirah ❮❮ 87 Restaurants Buddha Bar 1 PRICE CATEGORIES Grosvenor House, Dubai Marina For a three-course meal for one with half • 04 317 6833 • Open 7pm–midnight a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), • DDD taxes and extra charges. Expect great Pan-Asian food and D Under AED 100 DD AED 100–400 cocktails at this hip restaurant with a DDD Over AED 400 huge Buddha centrepiece (see p46). Eauzone 6 MAP B2 • One&Only Royal Mirage, Al Sufouh • 04 399 9999 • Open noon–3:30pm & 7–11:30pm • DDD Enjoy classic Pan-Asian dishes and contemporary fine-dining creations at tables under tented canopies laid out alongside a floodlit pool(see p46). Nina Atmospheric dining at Tagine 7 MAP B2 • One&Only Royal Mirage, Al Sufouh • 04 399 9999 Tagine Open 7–11:30pm Mon–Sat • DDD 2 MAP B2 • One&Only Royal Sample traditional Indian ingredients Mirage, Al Sufouh • 04 399 9999 with a new twist at this sophisticated • Open 7–11:30pm Tue–Sun • DD restaurant in pretty surroundings. Visit this candlelit restaurant for a A live DJ plays background music. magical Moroccan experience. The courtyard location adds to its charm. Indego by Vineet 8 MAP B2 • Grosvenor House, Maya Dubai Marina • 04 317 6000 • Open 3 MAP B2 • Le Royal Meridien 7pm–midnight • DDD Beach Resort • 04 316 5550 • Open A contemporary take on traditional 7pm–midnight • DDD Indian cuisine overseen by chef Come to Maya to experience new- Vineet Bhatia, the first Indian chef to wave Mexican cuisine in spacious be awarded a Michelin star (see p47). surroundings decorated with Mayan art and modern sculpture. Ruya 9 MAP B2 • Grosvenor House, Amala Dubai Marina • 04 317 6000 • Open 4 MAP B1 • Jumeirah Zabeel 6pm–1am Sat–Wed, 6pm–2pm Thu & Saray, Palm Jumeirah • 04 453 0444 Fri • www.ruyadubai.com • DD • Open 6pm–1am Sun–Thu & 1–4pm Visit Ruya for an authentic, Fri–Sat • DD contemporary Anatolian cuisine in Enjoy tasty North Indian dishes in a a lively, relaxed setting. lavish setting with traditional decor. Rhodes Twenty10 BiCE 0 MAP B2 • Le Royal Méridien 5 MAP B2 • Hilton Dubai Beach Resort • 04 316 5550 • Open Jumeirah • 04 399 1111 • Open 7pm–midnight • DDD 12:30–3:30pm & 7–11:30pm • DD A lively restaurant overseen by An Art Deco-themed Italian with UK chef Gary Rhodes, it features a an excellent selection of seafood, mix of British classics and Middle meat dishes and wine. Eastern-influenced dishes(see p47).

See map on p82

086-087_Top_10_Dubai.indd 87 17/05/2017 14:14 Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED: DPS “UK” LAYER 088-089_Top_10_Dubai.indd(SourceReport 88 v.1) 17/05/2017 12:55 Date 21st January 2015 Size 100mm x 191mm 088-089_Top_10_Dubai.indd 89 17/05/2017 12:55 90 ❯❯ Dubai and Abu Dhabi Area by Area Downtown Abu Dhabi A stunning city of shiny new skyscrapers strung out along an idyllic corniche, oil-rich Abu Dhabi is the capital of the UAE and a rising player in the world’s financial, commercial and tourist stages. Many visitors enjoy the slower and more traditional pace of life compared to Dubai, although after years in the shadow of its neighbour, Abu Dhabi is now also launching into its own spectacular spate of large-scale developments, ranging from the ultra-opulent mock-Arabian Emirates Palace, one of the world’s most lavish hotels, to the futuristic architecture of Al Maryah Island and the gleaming Etihad Towers. Downtown Abu Dhabi is the city’s bustling commercial centre, where you’ll find the biggest mega-developments, the liveliest attractions, and all the busiest shops, bars and restaurants. Abu Dhabi Corniche 1 MAP N1–R1 Abu Dhabi’s showpiece boulevard sweeps for almost 5 km (3 miles) along the Downtown waterfront. A long line of skyscrapers rises to one side, while to the other are a series of gardens, popular in the evenings with strolling locals and joggers. Hiring a bike and riding up and down the waterfront is a great way to spend an hour or so, and The expansive Abu Dhabi Corniche there’s a fine stretch of public beach.

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Previous pages Bird’s-eye view of Downtown Dubai from the Burj Khalifa

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Looking across the water to Al Maryah Island and its new developments Marina Mall Al Maryah Island 2 MAP P1 • The Breakwater 3 MAP T3 • 02 681 8300 • Open 10am–10pm, On the northern side of Downtown, (till midnight Thu & Fri) • www.marina this island is the site of arguably the mall.ae city’s most ambitious mega-project. Despite its slightly out-of-the way Planned as Abu Dhabi’s new financial location, the sprawling Marina Mall and business district, much of the is one of the city’s largest and most development has yet to take shape, popular shopping destinations, with although the Abu Dhabi Global shops laid out between an attractive Market Square gives a taste of things sequence of circular atriums topped to come, with its huge skyscrapers with tent-shaped roofs. The highlight and chic Galleria mall (see p94). of the complex is the slender Marina Sky Tower, at the back of the mall, World Trade Center which offers superb views over the 4 MAP R2 • Hamdan Bin city and Corniche from the Colombiano Mohammed St • www.wtcad.ae coffee shop (floor 41) or the Tiara One of the largest develop ments in revolving restaurant (floor 42). Abu Dhabi, the World Trade Center is topped by the Trust Tower and the DOWNTOWN ABU DHABI Burj Mohammed bin Rashid. The main attraction is its souk (see p94), offering l ulul ulu sland sland a kind of Postmodern re-imagination asas l l of the traditional Arabian souk. T T BateenBateen

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Al Ittihad Square 5 MAP R1 THE DISCOVERY OF OIL A crop of supersized sculptures stand The Japanese invention of the cultured in the small park at the centre of Al pearl and the subsequent collapse of Ittihad Square, creating a whimsical the Gulf’s pearl industry led to the contrast to the surrounding tower granting of petroleum concessions blocks. The five sculptures feature a by Sheikh Shakhbut bin Sultan Al Nahyan in 1939. It turned out to be a gigantic coffeepot, a huge perfume very wise move. The discovery of oil in bottle, an elaborate plate cover, a 1958 and its export from 1962 made colossal cannon and a small fort. Abu Dhabi an extremely rich city.

Al Mina Souks 7 MAP T1 • Open 5am–11pm Stretching away on the northern side of Downtown Abu Dhabi is the city’s Al Mina port area, stacked with cranes and busy with boats. A trio of small markets can be found here. The so-called Carpet Souk (see p94) comprises a small square with low- key shops. The nearby food souk is the heart of the city’s retail trade in Potter at Abu Dhabi Heritage Village vegetables and fruit, while opposite is the lively fish market, with the day’s Abu Dhabi catch laid out along the quay. 6 Heritage Village MAP P1 • The Breakwater • 02 681 Emirates Palace 4455 • Open 9am–5pm Sat–Thu, 8 Abu Dhabi’s magnificent pink 3:30–9pm Fri • www.visitabudhabi.ae palace hotel dominates the western For a taste of life as it was in the end of the splendid Corniche. The city before the discovery of oil, majestic multi-domed exterior is Abu Dhabi’s Heritage Village is the surpassed in extravagance only by place to come. In a superb location the dazzling interior, glittering with directly over the water from the gold and sparkling with Swarovski soaring towers of the Corniche, the crystals. The Emirates Palace was village comprises a line of traditional constructed to provide opulent barasti (palm-frond) huts, some of accommodation fitting for the capital’s them turned into workshops in visiting dignitaries (see pp30–31). which resident craftspeople can sometimes be seen at work. Iconic facade of the Emirates Palace

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Etihad Towers A CORNICHE AND CITY WALK 9 MAP N2 • Observation deck at 300: Open 10am–6pm • Adm arina all bu Dhabi • www.etihadtowers.com eritae illae Dominating the southwestern end mirates orld alae l ttihad rade bu of the Corniche is the huge Etihad uare enter Dhabi all Towers development, a cluster of five T alleria glistening skyscrapers with gently ornihe tihad asr al osn curved outlines and a gleaming owers ebanese metallic shine. There are superlative lower Beah otana l aryah views over Abu Dhabi from the sland 74th-floor Observation Deck at 300 (in tower two) and from Ray’s Bar MORNING on the 62nd floor of the Jumeirah at Etihad Towers hotel (see p115). Start with a stroll around the stunning new Abu Dhabi Global Market Square (Sowwah Square) on Al Maryah Island (see p91) and a wander through the boutique shops of the Galleria (see p94). Afterwards, head along the waterfront before crossing the bridge to the Downtown area. Wander past the Abu Dhabi Mall (see p94) and along 5th St, one of the city’s liveliest shopping areas, then have a look into the souk at the World Trade Center (see p91) and admire the quirky statues in Al Ittihad Square. From here it’s a short stroll past Qasr al Hosn to the Lebanese Flower restaurant (see p95), where you can break for lunch.

AFTERNOON Walk down past Al Markaziyah Gardens to the spectacular Etihad Towers dominating the skyline Corniche (see p90) and then take a stroll along a bit of the Qasr al Hosn waterfront before jumping in a cab and heading past the Etihad 0 MAP R2 • Al Nasr St (5th St) Towers for afternoon tea in the Located at the heart of Downtown, opulent surroundings of the Qasr al Hosn (the Palace Fort) offers Emirates Palace hotel. Catch an unexpected throwback to earlier another cab for the short drive to times. This is the oldest building in the Abu Dhabi Heritage Village, Abu Dhabi, first established back after which you can watch the sun in the 1760s, after which it served as set from the top of the Sky Tower in the Marina Mall (see p91). home to the ruling Al Nahyan family for the next two centuries. Most of Catch a taxi back to Downtown what you see now – a high white wall and enjoy the spectacular dotted with a sequence of circular nighttime view of Al Maryah battle mented towers – was built Island from the terrace of the fashionable Finz restaurant at the in the 1940s. The fort is currently Beach Rotana hotel (see p116). undergoing extensive renovations End the day with a drink at and will eventually reopen as a new the hotel’s German-themed museum showcasing the city’s history, Brauhaus pub. although the date is unknown.

See map on pp90–91

090-093_Top_10_Dubai.indd 93 15/06/2017 14:54 94 ❯❯ Dubai and Abu Dhabi Area by Area Places to Shop Abu Dhabi Mall Khalifa Centre 1 MAP T2 • Tourist Club area 7 MAP T2 • Tenth St, opposite • 02 645 4858 • Open 10am–10pm Abu Dhabi Mall, Tourist Club area (till 11pm Thu–Fri) • www.abudhabi • Open 10am–1pm & 4–10pm Sat–Fri mall.com • 02 667 9900 Known as “AD Mall”, this popular Bargain here for exquisite Persian spot has all the top-name shops. rugs, sheeshas, tribal kilims and even silver prayer boxes. Hamdan St 8 MAP R2 • Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed St (Hamdan St) This street sells pretty much everything. It has jewellery stores and Arabic and Bollywood music shops, as well as discount supermarkets. The Galleria 9 MAP T2 • Al Maryah Island A water feature at Marina Mall • Open 10am–10pm (till midnight Thu–Fri) • 02 616 6999 Marina Mall Spanning three floors, the Galleria 2 This enormous mall is packed houses numerous luxury boutique with stores, cinemas and cafés. stores from across the world. There is even an ice rink (see p91). World Trade Carpet Souk 0 Center Souk 3 MAP U2 • Mina (Port) Rd MAP R2 • Off Al Ittihad Square This souk is more about the buying • 02 810 7814 • Open 10am–10pm experience than the items on offer (till 11pm Thu–Fri) • www.wtcad.ae (carpets, rugs, kilims and cushions). Explore the great selection of craft and souvenir shops at this stunning Al Wahda Mall souk within the World Trade Center 4 MAP R3 • Near Central Bus (see p91). There are also shops Stop • 02 443 7000 • Open 10am– selling local food, spices and honey. 10pm (till 11pm Thu–Sat) • www. alwahda-mall.com The World Trade Center Souk With more than 250 stores and a cinema hall, this recently expanded mall is now the largest in Abu Dhabi. Iranian Souq 5 MAP U2 • Mina (Port) Rd Amid the plastic items and plants sold here, you’ll find Iranian painted crafts. Fotouh Al Khair Centre 6 MAP R2 • Near Etisalat, opposite Cultural Foundation • Open 10am–10pm • 02 622 2241 Expats love this bright mini mall. It is home to Marks & Spencer and a number of other popular UK brands.

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PRICE CATEGORIES Vasco’s 6 • For a three-course meal for one with half MAP N2 Hilton Abu Dhabi, a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), Corniche Rd West • 02 681 1900 taxes and extra charges. • Open noon–3:30pm & 7pm–11pm • DDD D Under AED 100 DD AED 100–400 DDD Over AED 400 A smart restaurant offering an incredible blend of European cooking with a pinch of Asia. Hanoi 1 MAP N2 • Khalifa Bin Zayed St • 02 626 1112 • Open 10:30am– 10:30pm daily • D The capital’s original Vietnamese restaurant, this place serves classic unpretentious dishes. Beijing 2 MAP N2 • Madinat Zayed • 02 621 0708 • Open 11am– midnight daily • D Authentic Chinese food need not be expensive, as this popular spot pulls out all the stops to prove.

Hakkasan Sayad, with views to the sea 3 MAP N6 • Emirates Palace Hotel, Corniche West St • 02 690 Sayad 7999 • Open 6pm–midnight daily & 7 MAP N1 • Emirates Palace noon–3pm Fri–Sat • DDD Hotel, Corniche Rd West • 02 690 7999 This award-winning Chinese eatery • Open 6:30–11:30pm daily • DDD serves up exquisite Cantonese Expect playful decor and fine seafood staples. The opulent surroundings cuisine at this swanky restaurant. were designed by French interior designers Gilles & Boissier. Royal Orchid 8 MAP T2 • Al Salam St • 02 Cristal Cigar and 677 9911 • Open noon–11:30pm 4 Champagne Bar • No alcohol • D MAP S1 • Millennium Hotel, Khalifa St An authentic little Thai restaurant • 02 614 6000 • Open 5pm–2am daily with a great atmosphere. For a sophisticated evening, stop by this gentlemen’s club-style bar for India Palace a glass of bubbly or a cigar. 9 MAP T2 • Al Salam St • 02 644 8777 • Open noon–midnight Lebanese Flower daily • No alcohol • D 5 MAP P3 • Near Choitrams Dine on North Indian cuisine in an Supermarket, cnr Hamdan & Fourth opulent Anglo-Indian-style setting. St, Khalidya • 02 665 8700 • Open 7am–3am daily • No alcohol • D Jazz Bar & Dining A must-visit restaurant serving 0 MAP P6 • Hilton Abu Dhabi, scrumptious mezze (Arabic appetizers Corniche Rd West • 02 681 1900 • Open such as hommous and vine leaves), 7pm–2am Sun–Wed, 7pm–3am Thu & Fri smoky mixed grilled meat plates Enjoy live jazz and great cocktails and honey-soaked baklava. at this Art Deco-inspired bar.

See map on pp90–91

094-095_Top_10_Dubai.indd 95 15/06/2017 14:54 96 ❯❯ Dubai and Abu Dhabi Area by Area Beyond the Centre of Abu Dhabi Car at Ferrari Beyond the central Downtown area, World Abu Dhabi is booming. Much of the city’s ongoing future development plans are focused on Saadiyat Island, a couple of miles east from the centre. Already home to the almost-finished Abu Dhabi Louvre (a sister museum to the Louvre in Paris), the island is planned to become a key tourist destination with world-class museums, heritage sites and leisure attractions. Past here, adjacent Yas Island is where you will find the city’s famous Formula 1 racetrack and swanky Yas Marina, with the vast Ferrari World and Yas Waterworld theme parks close by. Back towards the centre, the city shows its more traditional face at the vast white Sheikh Zayed Mosque, one of the world’s most spectacular modern mosques.

BEYOND THE CENTRE OF ABU DHABI

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Bain al Jessrain Beyond the Centre 1 MAP V4 • Souk Qaryat al Beri: Open Sat–Thu 10am–10pm, Fri 4– 10pm • www.soukqaryatalberi.com of Abu Dhabi Most of Abu Dhabi is actually built on an island separated from the mainland by a narrow sea inlet known as Maqta Creek – it wasn’t until the opening of Maqta Bridge in 1966 that the island and mainland were connected. Three bridges now span the creek, whose shores now feature several top hotels and some of the city’s most valuable real estate. The area on the mainland side, known as Bain al Jessrain (Between the Bridges), is also where you’ll find the little Souk Qaryat al Beri, which is home to a string of boutique and eating outlets set over two levels. Following a Venetian theme, canals meander throughout the pretty souk. The striking Sheikh Zayed Mosque

BEYOND THE CENTRE OF ABU DHABI Sheikh Zayed Mosque 2 This impressive structure is an imposing sight on the drive from BarghailamBarghailam BainBain al alJessrain Jessrain SaadiyatSaadiyat IslandIsland (Between(Between the the Bridges) Bridges) Dubai to Abu Dhabi. The mosque PublicPublic Beach Beach Abu Dhabi Abu Dhabi is named after Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, the founder and CULTURECULTURE DISTRICTDISTRICT RamhanRamhan ouou aryat aryat the first president of the United IslandIsland al erial eri Arab Emirates, who is also buried

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Creek Shangri-LaShangri-La Hotel Hotel here. The building is open to non- ALAL MINA MINA SaadiyatSaadiyat MARINAMARINA IslandIsland Muslims, but visitors should dress DISTRICTDISTRICT meters meters conservatively (see pp28–9). Al JubailAl Jubail T T LuluLulu Al MaryahAl Maryah IslandIsland yards yards IslandIsland IslandIsland Abu Dhabi Louvre 3 MAP V2 • Cultural District, YasYas Island Island ZeraaZeraa • • IslandIsland Abu Dhabi Adm www.louvre KhoKrh o Lr L aﬀanﬀan abudhabi.ae ABUABU DHABI DHABI REEM TT REEM TT MushayribMushayrib Kh Kh YasYas Viceroy Viceroy Hotel Hotel A new branch of the famous Parisian or or IslandIsland T T T T Al Al Al-SamaliyaAl-Samaliya YasYas Marina Marina museum, the Abu Dhabi Louvre is YASYAS Ba Ba TT TT g g Island Island PLAZAPLAZA the centrepiece of the huge Saadiyat MangroveMangrove h h NationalNational al al Island project, intended to form a TT TT ParkPark dedicated cultural and leisure AbuAbu Dhabi Dhabi T T SasSas An An InternationalInternational ALAL MOROOR MOROOR destination within the city, with further NakhiNakhi Island Island TT TT T T museums, malls and beaches T T MASDARMASDAR CITY CITY HideriyyatHideriyyat planned. Due to open in 2017, the IslandIsland MADINATMADINAT building was designed by French SeeSee map map KHALIFAKHALIFA Top 10 Sights architect Jean Nouvel and resembles aoeaoe see pp97–9 AL ALMUZOON MUZOON an enormous white flying saucer Restaurants under an intricately latticed roof. see p100 TT The museum will host a range of Bars exhibits from the Louvre’s collections, m m see p101 including a strong selection of miles miles MUSSAFAHMUSSAFAH Middle Eastern and Islamic art.

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Pure white sand and turquoise-blue sea at Saadiyat Public Beach Yas Waterworld Saadiyat Public Beach 4 MAP W4 • Yas Island • 02 414 6 MAP V2 • Open 8am–sunset 2000 • Open 10am–7pm • Adm; under • Adm with lounger and umbrella 3s free • www.yaswaterworld.com This beautiful beach offers a nice Rivalling Wild Wadi (see p78) and change of pace from the city centre, Aquaventure (see p84) in Dubai, with a huge expanse of fine white Abu Dhabi’s state-of-the-art water sand. The dunes behind the beach park offers more than 40 stomach- are a nesting site for turtles and a churning rides and slides, plus gentler refuge for other rare flora and fauna, water-based fun for kids and adults while dolphins are sometimes alike. Adrenaline junkies should spotted offshore here. The facilities head for the near-vertical Jebel Drop include toilets, showers and a café. water slide. If you want to enjoy the sea itself, the nearby Yas Public Manarat al Saadiyat Beach has loads of sand, an infinity 7 MAP V2 • Sheikh Khalifa Hwy pool and lovely loungers to relax on. • Open 9am–8pm • 02 657 5800 • www.saadiyatculturaldistrict.ae Great things are planned for Saadiyat Island, although it’s likely to be quite a few years before the development really gets going. In the meantime, a sense of the enormous ambitions of this project-in-progress can be gleaned from a visit to Manarat al Saadiyat, hosting tantalising architectural models and other exhibits on the future island. The striking metallic building next door A jumble of slides, Yas Waterworld is the UAE Pavilion, designed by Foster + Partners for the Shanghai Al Maqtaa Fort World Expo in 2010. 5 MAP V4 • Al Maqtaa bridge, on the right coming from Dubai Ferrari World This quaint little 200-year-old fort once 8 MAP W4 • Yas Island • 02 496 guarded the main approach to the 8000 • Open 11am–8pm (till 10pm city and still stands sentinel beside Thu–Sat) • Adm; under 3s free Al Maqtaa Bridge. The sand-coloured • www.ferrariworldabudhabi.com exterior is adorned with carved The ultimate shrine to one of the wooden doors and shuttered windows, world’s most famous cars – with narrow slits above for rifles. appropriate enough in a city built

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almost entirely using petrodollars. A DAY AROUND ABU DHABI Billing itself as the “world’s largest e indoor theme park” this vast red extravaganza boasts an amazing e range of rides. Highlights include TAXI a Formula 1 simulator, the world’s fastest rollercoaster and the s e vertiginous Tower of Speed ride. s e e Aldar HQ se TAXI 9 MAP W4 • Al Raha, next to ess the Dubai–Abu Dhabi highway e e The Aldar HQ is another strong contender for the title of Abu Dhabi’s MORNING most unusual building, clearly visible from the main highway as you Spend the morning exploring approach from Dubai. Claimed to be the myriad treasures of the Abu Dhabi Louvre (see p97), including a the world’s first circular skyscraper, large selection of Middle Eastern the structure looks a lot like a huge and Islamic art. Afterwards, pop magnifying glass, supported by into the nearby Manarat al a diagonal grid of steel girders. Saadiyat exhibition to see what Casual visitors are welcome to go the future of Abu Dhabi looks like. inside for a look at the airy atrium. If museums aren’t your thing, spend some time on the sands Capital Gate at Saadiyat Public Beach or brave the looping rides and slides of Yas 0 MAP U3 • Al Khaleej al Arabi St Waterworld. Pick up some lunch The so-called “Leaning Tower either in the museum or at one of Abu Dhabi”, Capital Gate is one of the numerous places to eat of the most remarkable of Abu around the Yas Marina. Dhabi’s many strange modern buildings. Officially recognized by AFTERNOON Guinness World Records as the Next, head back to the mainland. world’s most tilted tower, this If you have time, make a short enormous skyscraper looks detour to see the innovative Aldar as if it’s on the point of HQ building en route. Spend the toppling headfirst into rest of the afternoon visiting the the sea, with four iconic Sheikh Zayed Mosque and times more lean than admiring its incredibly ornate even the famously courtyard and interior. wonky Leaning As evening approaches, catch a Tower of Pisa. cab for the short drive over to Bain al Jessrain. Look out for the 200-year-old Al Maqtaa Fort The tilting and then dive into Qaryat al Beri Capital Gate souk to explore the boutiques and eateries there. Watch the sun go down over the historic Maqtaa Creek whilst sipping a cocktail at the kitsch Left Bank (see p100). Afterwards, head to one of the many excellent restaurants in the area. Bord Eau (see p101) at the Shangri La Hotel is an especially memorable place for a romantic evening meal, boasting sweeping views across the creek from the terrace.

See map on pp96–7

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Y Bar, with its striking brick-vaulted ceiling Y Bar Stars ‘N’ Bars 1 MAP W4 • Yas Island Rotana 6 MAP W4 • Yas Island, Abu Hotel • 02 656 4000 • Open noon– Dhabi • 02 565 0101 • Open 2am • www.rotana.com 11:30am–2am daily A funky bar with an outdoor terrace. Enjoy a variety of international It’s a great place for evening cocktails. cuisine along with free arcade games at this Americanstyle sports bar. Cabana 9, Saadiyat 2 Beach Club Sorso MAP V2 • Saadiyat Island • 02 656 7 MAP V4 • Ritz Carlton 3500 • Open 8am–10pm • www. • 02 818 8282 • Open 5pm–1am saadiyatbeachclub.ae • www.ritzcarlton.com Sip a drink overlooking the sea at A smart bar that looks like the this idyllic beachfront pool bar. lounge of an oldschool European gentlemen’s club, with huge Relax@12 armchairs and plush sofas. 3 MAP V3 • Aloft Hotel, Khaleej al Arabi St • 02 654 5138 • Open 5pm Belgian Beer Café till late • www.relaxat12abudhabi.com 8 MAP W4 • Radisson Blu Hotel, A cool rooftop bar offering sweeping Yas Island • 02 656 2407 • Open noon– views through huge picture windows. 2am Sat–Wed, noon–3am Thu & Fri Visiting DJs keep things lively. A chic café serving lunch and dinner favourites accompanied by a fine Turquoiz selection of Belgian beverages. 4 MAP V2 • The St. Regis Saadiyat Island Resort • 02 498 8888 • Open Iris noon–11pm Sun–Thu, noon–2am Fri & 9 MAP W4 • Yas Marina • 055 Sat • www.turquoizabudhabi.com 160 5636 • Open 6pm–3am Mon–Sat A beach restaurant offering an array of • www.irisabudhabi.com appetizing seafood, light meals, deli Pose with a drink at this chic barclub, cious snacks and signature cocktails. while admiring views of Yas Marina. Chameleon Skylite Rooftop Lounge 5 MAP V4 • Fairmont Bab Al 0 MAP W4 • Yas Viceroy Hotel, Bahr, Bain Al Jessrain • 02 654 3238 Yas Island • 02 656 0600 • Open • Open 6pm–1am Tue–Sun 6pm–1am (8pm–2am May–Sept) • This chic cocktail bar with views over www.viceroyhotelsandresorts.com the water is one of the classiest spots A hip venue set under a dramatic in the city. Prices reflect its popularity. latticed roof, with a nightly DJ.

See map on pp96–7

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Bord Eau PRICE CATEGORIES 1 • MAP V4 Shangri-La Hotel, For a three-course meal for one with half Qaryat Al Beri • 02 509 8888 • Open a bottle of wine (or equivalent meal), 6:30–11:30pm • DDD taxes and extra charges. This elegant French restaurant D Under AED 100 DD AED 100–400 in the Shangri-La Hotel offers DDD Over AED 400 classic French dishes and modern, innovative cuisine. There is also a really excellent wine list. Shang Palace 7 MAP V4 • Shangri-La Hotel, Sardinia Qaryat Al Beri • 02 509 8555 • Open 2 MAP U3 • Abu Dhabi Country noon–3pm & 7–11:30pm • DD Club • 02 657 7640 • Open noon– Enjoy excellent Chinese cuisine 3pm & 7–11pm • DD cooked with panache. An award-winning kitchen serving top-notch international cuisine. p&c by Sergi Arola A complimentary amuse-bouche 8 MAP V4 • Shangri-La Hotel, is served between each course. Qaryat Al Beri • 02 509 8777 • Open 7–11:30pm • DD Entrecôte Café de Paris Sip cocktails and tuck into a 3 MAP V4 • Shangri-La Hotel, selection of tapas dishes at this glitzy Souk Qaryat al Beri • 02 557 6508 venue overlooking Maqta Creek. • Open noon–midnight • DD An offshoot of the famous Geneva Ushna restaurant, serving just a single 9 MAP V4 • Souk Qaryat al Beri dish – the famed entrecôte fillet • 02 558 1769 • Open 12:30–11:00pm steak – in the café’s special • DD secret sauce. A chic North Indian restaurant in an attractive waterside setting. Amici 4 MAP W4 • Yas Viceroy Hotel, Angar Yas Island • 02 656 0600 • Open 0 MAP W4 • Yas Viceroy Hotel, 12:30–3pm & 7–11pm • DD Yas Island • 02 656 0600 • Open An Italian restaurant serving 7pm–11am Wed–Mon (from 2pm Fri) authentic freshly made pasta and • DD wood-fired pizza, plus good antipasti. A stylish and upmarket restaurant serving innovative and delicately Atayeb spiced modern Indian cuisine. 5 MAP W4 • Yas Viceroy Hotel, Yas Island • 02 656 0600 • 7pm–1am Interior of the sophisticated Angar Sun–Fri • DD This intimate restaurant (with a spectacular outdoor terrace) offers a rich array of classic Levantine dishes from Lebanon and Syria, cooked over charcoal stoves. Hoi An 6 MAP V4 • Shangri-La Hotel, Qaryat Al Beri • 02 509 8555 • Open 6–11:30pm • DD A smart colonial-style restaurant dishing up great Vietnamese cuisine.

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Al Fahidi Metro Station, Bur Dubai

Eyewitness Travel – Top 10 series LAYERS PRINTED: Chapter Openers “UK” LAYER 102-103_Top_10_Dubai.indd(SourceReport 102 v.1) 17/05/2017 12:55 Date 22nd April 2015 Size 100mm x 191mm Getting To and Around Dubai and Abu Dhabi 104 Practical Information 106 Places to Stay 112 General Index 118 Acknowledgments 124 Phrase Book 126

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Arriving by Air the metro isn’t running. one-day travel pass (AED To get from Abu Dhabi 20), offering unlimited Centrally located just airport, you’ll either have transport around the city. outside the old city, sleek to catch a taxi (around There are also three types Dubai Airport is one of the AED 70–80 into the city of rechargeable Nol cards world’s best. Emirates centre) or ride the (Silver, Gold and Blue) Airline has its own, 24-hour airport bus #A1, which can be pre-loaded ultramodern terminal (3), which runs regularly with up to AED 500 of while most other long- into the centre (AED 4). credit. Cards/tickets can haul international flights It’s around a 30–40 be bought and topped up land at Terminal 1. minute drive into the city, at any metro station and Abu Dhabi Airport is depending on traffic. various other locations. also very modern in design Fares are identical across and international visitors Arriving by Sea metro, tram and bus will arrive into an unusual networks, and offer circular terminal (1). Numerous cruise ships superb value, costing If you’re from one of include Dubai in their between AED 3 and the 49 countries eligible itineraries, docking at AED 7.5 (or double that for an on-the-spot visa the Dubai Cruise in the more luxurious (see p106), the entry Terminal in Port Rashid, metro/tram Gold Class process is a breeze. If centrally located between compartments). you don’t come from an Jumeirah and Bur Dubai. eligible country, make By Metro sure you have your visa Arriving by Road documents to hand. Be The impressive driverless aware that the UEA has The UAE’s land borders Dubai Metro is by far the very strict narcotics laws, with Saudi Arabia are quickest and cheapest and some prescription open only to GCC nationals. way to get around. There drugs are banned. Check There are five border are two lines – Red and with your local UAE crossings with Oman Green – which between embassy before flying, as currently open, with visas them cover most of the you may have to ask your issued on the spot to city’s sights. Trains run doctor for documentation. citizens of 49 different daily from around 5:30am There are almost countries (see p106). to midnight (later on always plenty of taxis at Thursday) and from both airports. In Dubai the Transport Tickets 10am on Friday. There fixed rate from the airport are departures every five is AED 25, with a fare into Run by RTA, almost all to ten minutes. Children Deira or Bur Dubai of public transport in Dubai, under five or shorter than around AED 50, or including the metro, tram 0.9m travel free. All trains AED 75–100 to Jumeirah. and city buses, is covered have a plusher and more Alternatively, Terminals 1 by the Nol ticketing expensive Gold Class and 3 are both connected system. You’ll need a compartment and a to the Dubai Metro. There ticket before you use any dedicated carriage for are also various airport of these since none are women and children. buses including the useful sold onboard any form of Sky Bus (Terhab) transport. The cheapest By Tram network, run by RTA, option is the reusable Nol which runs 24 hours from Red Ticket (AED 2). To use Opened in 2014, the all three airport terminals this you need to pre-pay superb Dubai Tram loops with departures every the correct fare for each around the marina and 30 minutes. This is useful journey you make. You continues up the coast if you arrive at night when can also use it to buy a for several kilometres,

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providing access to places street, and there are taxi There are carrental the metro doesn’t reach. ranks at most shopping desks at airports, hotels The system connects malls – though during and other locations. directly to the metro and busy times it might be The international also links to the Palm better to call ahead. All companies Avis, Budget, Monorail (see p85). Trams taxis use meters and cost Europcar and Hertz are run Saturday to Thursday around AED 1.5 per km all well represented. 6:30am–1am and Friday plus flag fall. In Dubai the 9am–1am, with services flag fall is AED 5, with a By Boat every 8 minutes. minimum charge of AED 12 per ride. In Abu Dhabi The plush Dubai Ferry By Bus the flag fare is AED 3.50 runs three times daily (AED 4 at night; minimum between Bur Dubai and Dubai Buses, run by fare AED 10dh from Dubai Marina (75 minutes), RTA, has an extensive 10pm to 6am). Reputable and there are also various bus network, although companies are the Dubai sightseeing round trips. services tend to cover Taxi Corporation and Fares on all trips are routes and areas of little TransAD (for Abu Dhabi). AED 50. In the old city, interest to most visitors. abras crisscross Dubai Abu Dhabi buses (DoT) By Car Creek, connecting Deira are more useful, with and Bur Dubai. The fare various routes criss Driving in Dubai can be is AED 1 per person. You crossing Downtown. Fares challenging, given the can also hire your own are around AED 3–4 per sometimes heavy traffic, abra to cruise the creek journey. There are also labyrinthine road layouts for AED 120 per hour. regular bus services and often aggressive between the two cities, and driving styles, but is By Foot to other major destinations feasible if you’re confident across the country. behind the wheel. Cars Neither Dubai nor Abu drive on the right, and Dhabi is very pedestrian By Taxi speed limits are 60km/h friendly, apart from on city streets, 80km/h on Dubai’s souks, marinas Taxis are a great and major city roads, and 100– and Al Fahidi, and the affordable way of getting 120km/h on highways. Do Corniche in Abu Dhabi. around in both Dubai and not drink and drive unless Elsewhere, be cautious Abu Dhabi. Vehicles can you want to spend the on pedestrian crossings, be hailed anywhere on the night (or longer) in jail. which drivers ignore.

DIRECTORY ARRIVING BY AIR BY METRO TransAD ∑ Abu Dhabi Airport Dubai Metro transad.ae ∑ abudhabiairport.ae ∑ dubai-metro.me BY CAR Dubai Airport BY TRAM Avis ∑ dubaiairport.com ∑ avis.com Emirates Airline Dubai Tram ∑ Budget ∑ emirates.com alsufouhtram.com ∑ budget-uae.com Sky Bus (Terhab) BY BUS Europcar ∑ dubai-buses.com DoT ∑ europcardubai.com ARRIVING BY SEA ∑ dot.abudhabi.ae ∑ europcar-abudhabi.com Dubai Cruise Terminal RTA Hertz ∑ dubaicruiseterminal. ∑ dubai-buses.com ∑ hertzuae.com com BY TAXI BY BOAT TRANSPORT TICKETS Dubai Taxi Corporation Dubai Ferry Nol ∑ nol.ae ∑ dubaitaxi.ae ∑ dubai-ferry.com

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Passports and Visas from the US Department hospitals. Good hospitals of State, from the for tourists include the Free 30-day (90-day for Australian Department American Hospital and some nationalities) visit of Foreign Affairs and Emirates Hospital in visas are available on Trade, and from the Dubai, and the Burjeel arrival to citizens from UK Foreign and Hospital and Cleveland 47 countries. Passports Commonwealth Office. Clinic in Abu Dhabi. must be valid for six The UAE also has good months from the date of Embassies dentists and consultations entry to the UAE. Visas for and Consulates are reasonably priced. In 30 days (but not for 90 an emergency, the best days) can be extended by Canada, the UK, the US, place to go is the British the General Directorate and other countries have Dental Clinic (branches in of Residency and consular representation Dubai and Abu Dhabi). Foreigners Affairs at a in the region. Check your There are numerous cost of AED 620. consulate’s UAE website pharmacies, including for travel warnings and many that open 24 hours Customs security information. (ask at your hotel for the Regulations nearest branch). Travel Insurance The duty-free allowance Personal Security for each traveller is 400 While petty crime is rare cigarettes, 500g of in the UAE, insurance While petty crime is tobacco, 50 cigars and covering loss of luggage almost unheard of, be 4 litres of alcohol. It’s not and theft is always good sensible – don’t leave possible to buy alcohol to have, along with com- valuables unattended and in shops in the UAE prehensive health and don’t flash cash around. without a liquor license dental insurance. Hospitals As a pedestrian be vigilant; (only available to UAE are very efficient, but drivers will not stop for residents), so buy duty services are expensive. you on a crossing, so free at the airport if you cross only at lights where want to have your own Health possible. If your taxi driver supply. In addition to the is driving too fast or usual items (firearms, No special vaccinations recklessly, tell him to slow illegal drugs and porno- are needed for the UAE. down (“shway shway”). graphy), it is forbidden The biggest danger to If you’re driving and you to bring in any banned your health is the heat. have an accident, first get movies, TV programs Take precautions to avoid out of harm’s way, then and offensive publi- dehydration, sunburn and call the police for instruc- cations, especially films sunstroke. Be careful, too, tions. Do not move the car and programs that may when crossing roads, and unless instructed to do include scenes with when driving. Tap water is so by the police. Rainy passionate kissing, sex, safe to drink. At most, you weather makes driving nudity or semi-nudity, or may experience an upset hazardous simply drugs use. Goods made in tummy as your body because UAE residents Israel (or bearing Israeli adjusts to new bacteria. If aren’t used to driving in logos) are also forbidden. you need urgent medical the rain – they won’t Check the Dubai Customs attention, call the necessarily slow down. website for the most Emergency Number. Decelerate or pull over up-to-date information. Standards are out- in sand storms when standing in both private visibility is poor. When Travel Safety Advice and public hospitals, you see oncoming drivers although the service is with their hazard lights Visitors can get up-to-date faster at emergency on, it means conditions travel safety information departments at private are even worse up ahead.

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The UAE is an Islamic seat of taxis and in the also see Emirati men rub state and you can land in “women’s section” of noses when they meet, in trouble for not respecting buses. Dedicated women’s the same way that close local religious customs queues at banks and male friends kiss cheeks and decency laws. Never government departments in Europe’s Mediter- drink alcohol and drive. indicate that women will ranean countries. In Dubai and Abu Dhabi, get preferential service. When swimming, take arrests have resulted Do not attempt to bring warning signs about from foreigners being too medicinal drugs into the dangerous rips and strong affectionate in public. If country. Bear in mind that undertows seriously. you get arrested, do not even some prescription Despite the calm appear- sign anything in Arabic drugs, such as codeine, and ance of the water, Dubai’s immediately. Your consu- anti-depressant and HRT beaches have very late should be your first medications, are banned. powerful undercurrents. call – they can help The UAE has a zero toler- In Dubai, if you leave facilitate contact with a ance policy on recreational something behind in a taxi, local bilingual lawyer. drugs. Penalties and sen- you’ll need to file a report In Sharjah, it’s illegal tences are harsh. While at Dubai Taxi. For any for women to travel in a the death penalty is an other lost property, contact vehicle with men other option, it’s rarely applied. the Police Lost and Found. than their husband. Homosexuality is illegal Casual irritations while Women must dress and punishable with harsh visiting Dubai include the modestly and not show penalties, although rarely numerous touts in old city their upper arms or back. enforced. You will some- souks attempting to sell Women travelling solo times see men from “copy watches”, “copy bags” in the UAE shouldn’t Central Asia and the and so on. Male visitors may experience any harass- Indian Subcontinent also be approached by pros- ment if they follow local holding hands – this titutes in bars, especially in norms. Sit in the back signifies friendship. You’ll the older parts of the city.

DIRECTORY PASSPORTS EMBASSIES Cleveland Clinic AND VISAS AND CONSULATES (Abu Dhabi) General Directorate Canada § 04 313 9999, 800 of Residency and ∑ canadainternational. 5111, 800 8 2223 Foreigners Affairs gc.ca ∑ clevelandclinic § 04 313 9999, 800 5111 UK abudhabi.ae ∑ dnrd.ae ∑ ukinuae.fco.gov.uk/en Emergency Number CUSTOMS US (Ambulance, Fire REGULATIONS ∑ dubai.usconsulate.gov and Police) ∑ abudhabi.usembassy. § 999 Dubai Customs gov ∑ dubaicustoms.gov.ae Emirates Hospital HEALTH (Dubai) TRAVEL SAFETY § 04 313 9999, 800 5111, ADVICE American Hospital 04 349 6666 (Dubai) ∑ emirateshospital.ae Australian Department § 04 337 5000 of Foreign Affairs and ∑ ahdubai.com Trade PERSONAL SECURITY ∑ dfat.gov.au British Dental Clinic Dubai Taxi § ∑ smartraveller.gov.au 04 342 1318 (Dubai) ∑ dubaitaxi.ae § 02 677 3308 (Abu Dhabi) UK Foreign and ∑ britishdentalclinic.com Police Lost and Commonwealth Office Found Burjeel Hospital ∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel- § 901 advice (Abu Dhabi) § 04 313 9999, 800 5111 (Dubai) US Department of State 02 508 5555 § 02 699 9999 ∑ travel.state.gov ∑ burjeel.com (Abu Dhabi)

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Currency the mobile number. North America and and Banking Within the UAE, dial Australasia takes about 050/055/056 for mobiles, 10 days. It’s unreliable, The UAE’s currency is 04 to call Dubai from however, so register the UAE dirham, written outside the emirate and anything valuable or as AED (Arab Emirates 02 to phone Abu Dhabi use a courier for anything Dirham) or as Dh. One from another emirate. urgent. Emirates Post dirham is divided into If you’re bringing your also provides surface 100 fils. Notes are in own mobile/cellphone and air delivery services denominations of AED 5, from home, note that for sending large parcels, AED 10, AED 20, AED 50, GSM phones (the type although courier services AED 100, AED 200, AED typically used in Europe) are more reliable. Com 500 and AED 1000. Coins will work in Dubai, but panies with a good are available as 25 fils, 50 make sure any international reputation for service fils and one dirham. The call bar is switched off. include Aramex, FedEx UAE dirham is pegged to North American CDMA and DHL. All will pick up the US dollar. US$1 is phones will not work, so from your hotel – you can equal to AED 3.67. All you’ll have to either bring pay on collection if you other currencies a nonCDMA phone from don’t have an account. fluctuate, but at the time home or purchase a of writing €1 was equal handset locally. TV, Radio and to AED 4 and £1 was If you need a mobile, Newspapers worth AED 5. it’s generally easier (and Numerous international cheaper) to get a local The UAE has a number of banks operate in the UAE, SIM card. The national daily Englishlanguage including HSBC, Citibank telecommunications newspapers (mostly AED and Standard Chartered company Etisalat offers 3–4), although all practise Bank. Good local banks visitors a useful “Visitor some degree of self include National Bank Mobile Line” (AED 35, censorship in order to of Abu Dhabi, Mashreq including 20 minutes of avoid offending the Bank and National Bank free local calls), which government. The best of Dubai. Globally linked gives you a SIM card and is The National, published ATMs are everywhere. allows you to make calls in Abu Dhabi. Gulf News American Express, at local rates. The card is (published in Dubai) is Mastercard and Visa are is available at the Etisalat also reasonable, while widely accepted and shops and other outlets. the online newspaper credit cards can be used You’ll need to present Emirates 24/7 provides almost anywhere. your passport when the latest updates. There are also buying a SIM card. The biggest of the numerous bureaux de There is WiFi access various Emirati television change, including the everywhere. Etisalat channels is the English leading Al Ansari operates numerous WiFi language Dubai One, Exchange, which has “hotspots” in shopping which mainly screens branches all over the city, malls, restaurants, coffee repackaged US shows including in many malls. shops and elswhere. and movies, plus a few You can pay online with local programmes. There Telephone a credit card, with rates are also several English and Internet starting at around AED 10 language radio stations per hour. including Virgin Radio To phone the UAE from Dubai (104.4 FM), though abroad, dial your inter Post and Couriers none is notably interesting. national access code, the UAE country code 971, Emirates Post is the Opening Hours then 4 for Dubai or 2 for UAE’s national postal Abu Dhabi, followed by service. You can buy The UAE weekend is the local number. To dial a stamps at any post office Friday and Saturday. mobile from abroad, dial and at some stationery Business hours aren’t 971 50/55/56 followed by shops. Mail to Europe, fixed but, generally,

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shopping malls and January) is usually when DIRECTORY supermarkets are open Dubai is at its best and daily 10am–10pm (some busiest, although you CURRENCY AND BANKING times later on Friday and may experience a little Saturday). Shops in the rain and overcast skies. Al Ansari Exchange streets open at approx This is when the Dubai ∑ alansariexchange.com imately the same times Shopping Festival, Global Citibank but sometimes close for Village and most major ∑ citibank.ae lunch from 1 to 4/5pm. sporting events take HSBC Government departments place. October to November ∑ hsbc.ae open around 7am and and March to April are a Mashreq Bank close to the public around bit hotter and are almost ∑ mashreqbank.com 3pm. Private companies guaranteed sunshine. National Bank of usually work 9am–6pm. Summer (May to Sep Abu Dhabi Museum opening hours tember) is scorching and ∑ nbad.com fluctuate wildly, and some it’s almost impossible National Bank of Dubai smaller places close to do anything except ∑ emiratesnbd.co.uk during the afternoon. lounge by a pool or stay in airconditioned buildings, Standard Chartered although hotel prices Bank Time Difference ∑ sc.com/ae tumble dramatically. The The UAE time zone is holy month of Ramadan TELEPHONE AND GMT+4. It is 9 hours presents some challenges INTERNET ahead of North American to visitors and is best Etisalat Eastern Standard Time, avoided unless you want ∑ etisalat.ae 12 hours ahead of North to experience the country’s American Western more traditional side. POST AND COURIERS Standard Time, and 6 Aramex hours behind Australian Travellers with ∑ aramex.com Eastern Standard Time. Disabilities DHL There is no daylight saving. ∑ dhl.ae Developers in Dubai and Emirates Post Electrical Abu Dhabi have worked ∑ emiratespost.com hard to cater for visitors Appliances FedEx with specific require ∑ fedex.com/ae UAE power sockets ments. Most of the two generally accept the UK cities’ more modern and TV, RADIO AND threeprong plug upmarket hotels now NEWSPAPERS operating on 220/240 have specially adapted Dubai One volts, although you may rooms, although cheaper ∑ dmi.ae/dubaione also see the European accommodation is harder Emirates 24/7 tworoundprong plug. to find. ∑ emirates247.com It’s a good idea to bring Transport facilities are Gulf News an adaptor that works also good. There are ∑ gulfnews.com for both. Some hotels excellent services at both have adaptors you can airports for visitors with The National ∑ thenational.ae borrow, or you can buy disabilities, while the them in supermarkets. Dubai Metro boasts tactile Virgin Radio Dubai guide paths, wheelchair ∑ virginradiodubai.com Weather spaces in compartments TRAVELLERS WITH and other facilities. The DISABILITIES The UAE has an arid Special Needs Taxi desert climate with service can be booked in Special Needs Taxi § 04 208 0808 infrequent rainfall. Dubai and in Abu Dhabi. (Dubai) Temperatures average Many of the city’s malls § 600 53 53 53 20°C (68°F) in winter to also have some facilities, (Abu Dhabi) 45°C (113°F) in summer. including specially Winter (December to adapted toilets.

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Sources of sightseeing bus tours are Shopping in traditional Information offered by Big Bus Tours souks of the old city is in both Dubai and Abu a different affair. Prices Tourism in Dubai is Dhabi, while the unusual are generally lower and overseen by the Wonderbus (see p54) haggling is expected Department of Tourism in Dubai is another (credit cards may not be and Commerce enjoyable tour. accepted except for big- Marketing (DTCM) and in Abras can be chartered ticket items). A lot of the Abu Dhabi by the Abu (see pp16–17) for your own items on sale consist of Dhabi Tourism and private cruise up and everyday essentials, but Culture Authority down the creek in Dubai, you’ll also find interesting (ADTCA). There are no and there are also sight- collectibles – gold, spices, proper tourist offices in seeing trips aboard the perfumes, designer fakes either Dubai or Abu Dhabi, Dubai Ferry. and antiques. but both DTCM and Walking tours of Al ADTCA maintain tourist Fahidi are offered by the Where to Eat offices overseas and SMCCU (see p19), and operate helpful websites. interesting foodie tours of There’s a huge range of For information on offbeat Dubai eateries by places to eat in both the latest events and Frying Pan Adventures. Dubai and Abu Dhabi, happenings, the best Shaheen Xtreme offer from inexpensive local resources are Time Out falconry experiences at cafés to extravagant fine- Dubai and Time Out Abu the Dubai Desert dining venues overseen Dhabi magazines. Conservation Reserve by Michelin-starred chefs. 800Tickets sell tickets for (see p33), while for a walk There’s also a huge many major music (and on the wild side in the array of cuisines on offer. other) events. What’s On mountains of the UAE This is one of the best magazine is also handy. and Oman, contact UAE places to sample classic For more detailed Trekkers or Absolute dishes from across the practical information, the Adventure. Middle East including government-led website For the ultimate view of traditional Arabian cuisine UAE Interact is sometimes either Dubai or Abu Dhabi, (or “Lebanese”, as it’s useful, as is the brilliant try a helicopter ride with often described), along (though now somewhat Emirates Helicopter with Iranian, Moroccan out-of-date) expat-run Tours and Abu Dhabi and Emirati specialities. Dubai FAQs website. Helicopter respectively. Indian food is also The best source of popular, as is Italian breaking local news is the Shopping and Chinese. website of The National Cheaper places are newspaper (see p109). There are basically two aimed largely at Asian There are also a few blogs types of shopping in Dubai expats living in the city, worth browsing including and Abu Dhabi: modern which explains the huge Dubai at Random and (for malls and traditional souks. number of Indian and food) the excellent I Live Shopping malls are every- Pakistani restaurants in a Frying Pan. where, from huge mega- across the old city. There developments to low-key are plenty of inexpensive Trips and Tours local places. Many leading cafés serving up Arabian local and international food including shawarma There are dozens of tour shops have outlets in kebabs in pitta bread plus operators in both Dubai malls, and chains such as other local dishes. and Abu Dhabi offering a Damas (jewellery), Paris More expensive places fairly stereotypical range Gallery (perfume) and are largely found attached of desert outings, trips to Grand Stores (electronics to hotels and come in neighbouring cities and and cameras) can be every conceivable shape dinner dhow cruises. found in almost all the and form from opulent Arabian Adventures major shopping centres. Arabian-themed venues (see p33) is the biggest Prices are fixed and credit to ultra-chic boltholes. and best. Hop-on hop-off cards normally accepted. Dining next to the sea is

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popular, and many places exclusively modern most of the world’s offer outdoor terraces – hotels – although there leading hotel companies those with outdoor are a handful of more now have at least one seating may also offer characterful small hotels establishment in each sheesha (waterpipes). in historic houses avail- city, often several. Tipping is generally able in Dubai, including Accommodation is not expected but is several places run by the available on all the usual appreciated if you’ve Heritage Collection. You’ll booking websites. Rates enjoyed your meal and also find plenty of Airbnb vary considerably from service. A 10 per cent options and loads of self- month to month (some- service charge may be catering apartments – times from week to week), added to cover the tip, Golden Sands is the main peaking during the winter along with other taxes. local operator, with over a months and falling hugely These can add up to 25 dozen apartment blocks during the summer per cent of the basic cost in Bur Dubai. (see p109). During busy of a meal and drinks, so There is considerable periods, such as the check before if included. variety amongst the more religious festival of Eid, Children are generally upmarket hotels. At the hotel prices can soar. well-catered for and top end of the scale Rates start from around welcome everywhere places range from chic AED 250 (US$70) for a except at the very best modernist highrises double in a rock-bottom, fine-dining restaurants. through to lavish resorts old-city one-star hotel, built in opulent pseudo- rising up into the Where to Stay Arabian style. Cheaper thousands of dollars per places, however, tend to night at top places. Many There’s a mind-boggling be functional concrete hotels quote room rates array of accommodation boxes of rather uniform exclusive of relevant in both Dubai and Abu appearance. The main government taxes, which Dhabi. The vast majority local chain is the can bump the price up in both cities is generally luxurious, Dubai-owned by 25 per cent – always in large and almost Jumeirah group, although check before booking.