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Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

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AAutumnutumn - WinterWinter 2009-20102009-2010

Rural tourism Novo Brdo‘s food, hikes, bikes and castle

Fresco heaven Gracanica monastery

N°3 - €4 pristina.inyourpocket.com CONTENTS 3

Mbërrita! MOBILE Allo? TELEPHONY ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Mbërrita! Urdhëroni? Hola! Contents Pronto? Arriving 7 Basics 8 Hello! Visas, streets, money and electricity Mbërrita! History 10 Hola! The one thing that Kosovo has too much of Culture & Events 12 Hello! Urdhëroni? Cinemas, theatres, concerts Where to stay 13 From business hotels to backpacker beds

Restaurants 17 Greasy burek to gourmet dining

Nightlife 23 Bars, pubs and clubs

Sightseeing 27 Away from home? Keep in touch. Mosques, museums and a map Gracanica 32 Choose Mobitel/IPKO as your roaming network for more convenient The medieval monastery prices in Kosova. Novo Brdo 33 IPKO roaming services are activated immediately, with no activation needed and Food, hikes, bikes and a castle no additional payment. Getting around 34 With IPKO roaming you can: Planes, taxis and trains dial and receive calls Mail & Phones 38 send SMS and MMS, and use GPRS. Shopping 40

Directory 42 For IPKO mobile phone users, while away from home, can even use services as: Credit transfer and Call me message. Maps & Index City map 46-47 Street index 48 Country map 49 Index 50

Pristina, Prizren, Peja online kosovo.inyourpocket.com

pristina.inyourpocket.com Autumn - Winter 2009-2010 4 FOREWORD

As the dusty summer makes way for cooler days, it’s high time for a newly updated edition of Pristina In Your Pocket, About this guide and this issue is packed with details of bars, restaurants, The Pristina In Your Pocket city guide is the only dedi- sights and practical information. cated English-language guidebook to Kosovo’s capital, Autumn kicks off with an exciting and brand new film and is part of a Europe-wide series of acclaimed city festival, PriFilmFest, held from 22-30 September. Catch a guides. In Your Pocket guides are written for foreign slew of quality international films (and maybe a tantalising travellers and residents, to provide honest, critical infor- glimpse of Vanessa Redgrave) at the Kino ABC. Music mation that makes visiting the city easier for newcomers. lovers can look forward to Pristina’s famed Jazz festival, As a private and commercial initiative, Pristina In Your Pocket has been written and researched by a team of taking place this November at the ODA theatre. See page local and foreign travel guide experts. The opinions in the 12 for details on all main events. guide are those of the writers, and are not in any way Newcomers to the city should check out the gleaming meant to glorify or denigrate the city, merely to point marble Indendence Museum beside Tiffany’s restaurant. out the merits and shortcomings that we think foreign It’s the only place in town where you can see a handful of travellers should know about. Although we realise the photos of the 1999 Kosovo conflict on display, together with local name for the city is spelled Prishtina, in this guide we use the official English spelling for the city name, various items and documents belonging to the main political Pristina, as described in article 13 of the Constitution of players at the time - and of course Ibrahim Rugova’s Kosovo. Every guidebook has its faults, so we appreciate desk. It’s best to take a local along to fully understand the any information that would lead to improving the next context. Opening this autumn is the new Ancient Prishtina issue. Emails can be sent to [email protected]. Archaeological Park, which aims to bring ancient tombs and structures to the attention of a wide audience. It’s certainly a welcome addition to Pristina’s short list of sights. Lidhur me këtë udhëzues Pristina In Your Pocket could do with your help to keep track of the rapid changes in Kosovo. Let us know your Udhëzuesi i qytetit Pristina In Your Pocket (‘Prishtina në additions, comments and suggestions by writing to xhepin tuaj’) është udhëzuesi i vetëm në gjuhën angleze që i dedikohet kryeqytetit të Kosovës, dhe është pjesë e një sërë [email protected] or by adding your personal udhëzuesve të njohur të qyteteve në mbarë Evropën. Udhë- comments on specific venues to our website, zuesit in your pocket janë dizajnuar për udhëtarët e huaj dhe http://pristina.inyourpocket.com. banorët, por thjeshtë që të sigurojnë informata të sinqerta kri- Enjoy autumn and enjoy Pristina. tike që e bëjnë vizitën në qytet më të lehtë për të sapoardhurit. Si një iniciative private komerciale, Pristina In Your Pocket është shkruar dhe hulumtuar nga një ekip i ekspertëve vendor Cover story dhe të huaj të udhëzuesve të udhëtimit. Mendimet në udhë- zues vijnë nga shkrimtarët, dhe në asnjë mënyrë nuk kanë për The 6000 year old Hynesha në Fron qëllim që të lavdërojnë apo denigrojnë qytetin, por thjeshtë (Goddess on a throne) statue is që të tregojnë meritat dhe mangësitë të cilat ne mendojmë Kosovo's trademark archaeological se udhëtarët e huaj duhet t’i dinë. Ndonëse e kemi vërejtur find and mascot. It was uncovered që emri i qytetit është shkruar Prishtina, në këtë udhëzues at Tjerrtorja near Pristina in 1956, ne kemi përdorur anglishten zyrtare për emrin e qytetit went on a short involuntary holiday Pristina, siç është paraparë në nenin 13 të Kushtetutës së to Belgrade during the Kosovo Kosovës. Çdo udhëzues i ka të metat e veta, prandaj ne do conflict and returned to Pristina in të çmonim çdo informatë që do të çonte në përmirësimin 2002. It can be seen in the Kosovo e botimit të ardhshëm. E-mailet mund të dërgohen në Museum. [email protected].

Editorial Copyright notice Editorial management Text and photos copyright Pristina In ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Rentapocket.com: Jeroen van Marle, Sco Your Pocket 2006-2010. Maps copyright Research Armend Morina, Nora Fazliu cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced Pristina In Your Pocket Fact-checking Donika Ahmeti, Kaltrina Hoxha in any form, except brief extracts for © Albania Experience Sh.P.K the purpose of review, without written c/o Tirana In Your Pocket Layout & Design Tomáš Haman permission from the publisher and Rr. Papa Gjon Pali II, Pall 11/1, Photos Rentapocket copyright owner. The brand name In Your kati 5, Cover photo Hynesha në Fron statue, Pocket is used under license from UAB Tirana, Albania JvM In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Tel +355 4 225 56 55 Maps Trimaks Kartografia, Skopje Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). Fax +355 4 227 19 60 The editors would like to thank Fiona [email protected] Kelmendi of IKS, iksweb.org, and Editor’s note www.inyourpocket.com Shannon of mtcowgirl.us. The editorial content of In Your Pocket Sales & Distribution guides is independent from paid-for ISSN 1819-2890 advertising. We welcome all readers‘ Manager Vullnet Malazogu comments and suggestions. We have Printing Evropa 92, Kocani [email protected], Published 10,000 copies, made every effort to ensure the accuracy tel. +386 49 17 34 47 of the information at the time of going to twice a year Assistant Alban Rafuna press and assume no responsibility for Publishers Gazmend Haxhia, changes and errors. Jeroen van Marle, Sco

Pristina In Your Pocket pristina.inyourpocket.com ARRIVING 7

By plane Public holidays Pristina's modern international airport (PRN, www.airport- pristina.com) is 15km west of the city centre. The arrivals When Kosovo grinds to a complete halt. hall is separate from the other buildings and not a happy 1-2 Jan New Year place, but the departures building has ATMs and other 7 Jan Orthodox Christmas services (see Transport). A taxi ride to the centre will cost 17 Feb Independence Day about €25 and takes about 20 minutes. The airport bus 4 Apr 2010 Catholic and Othodox Easter from right outside the arrivals terminal to the Grand Hotel in 9 Apr Constitution Day the city centre theoretically departs daily at 09:00, 11:00, 1 May Labour Day 13:00, 15:00, 17:00 and 18:00; a ticket costs €3 and can 9 May Europe Day be purchased on the bus. 20 Sept 2009 Eid Al-Fitr (Ramadan) 27 Nov 2009 Eid Al-Addha By train 25 Dec Catholic Christmas Trains from Skopje and within Kosovo all pass through Fushë Kosovë train station, which is Kosovo's main railway hub, seven kilometres west of central Pristina. Street smarts Hop onto a N°1 kombi minibus outside, which goes to the eastern end of Bul. Bill Clinton every 5-10 minutes Street Rruga Highway Autostrada for €0.40. Using a taxi will cost around €9. Some trains, Square Sheshi Bridge Ura including the one from Skopje, continue to Pristina Boulevard Bulevardi train station, which is a short walk to the centre along Rruga Garibaldi. Don't count on any taxis awaiting arrivals here. Europe In Your Pocket By bus Penny-pinchers who choose to get to Pristina by bus will be justly rewarded with a dilapidated bus station with nothing in the way of facilities beyond a couple of grotty cafés and kiosks. There's not even a city bus linking it to the city centre, two kilometres away. Taxis are parked outside the main exit and a ride into the centre will cost less than €2. Alternatively, it's a 20-30 minute walk: go directly north until you get to Bul. Bill Clinton and take a right. By car Driving around Kosovo in daylight is fairly easy and straight- forward, but we wouldn't recommend a nighttime trip if it's your first time. Check with the rental company if you plan to drive into Kosovo with a rental car.

Pristina’s districts Pristina’s city centre (‘qendra’) is surrounded by low hills with several districts draped over them. Velania, to the east between the centre and Germia park has upmarket housing, the city park, and is best known as the place where President Rugova used to live, and where he now lies buried. Just south of Velania is Bregu i Diellit, better known as Sunny Hill. South of the centre, Ulpiana is the high-rise modern district east of Bul. i Deshmoreve, Dardania is west of it. The narrow roads in Arbëria (also known under its Slavic Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special In name Dragodan), the district on the hillside west of the Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with the 1150th centre, are crammed with the 4WDs of the expats and aniversary of the city of Velikiy Novgorod. Look out for a embassies based here. To the north of the centre lies special supplement in our next Russian guides and online Kodra e Trimave. As a foreign visitor, you’ll probably at russia.inyourpocket.com. Elsewhere, you can now only ever need to leave the centre to visit Velania, where get your hands Sarajevo In Your Pocket when visiting there are several hotels, and perhaps Arbëria which is the Bosnian capital, and the same team - who have home to some good restaurants. A large concentration successfully pocketed Slovenia and Bosnia - are now of cafés, bars and restaurants can be found in ‘Qyteza turning their attention to Italy, and to Venice. Pejton’ (Peyton city, named after the raunchy 1960s We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like to drama serial, Peyton Place), the low-rise area south of take part in our Pocket Revolution, either by contribut- the Grand hotel, between Rr. Garibaldi, Bul. Nënë Teresa ing content or starting up an IYP. Send us an email at and Bul. Bill Clinton. [email protected]. pristina.inyourpocket.com Autumn - Winter 2009-2010 8 BASICS BASICS 9

pursuits as driving from a to b all of sudden become confusing Electricity to say the least. The word Kosovo incidentally is the English Basic data Electricity is the ubiquitous energy product that powers the spelling. Locals use Kosova (and of course Kosovë). whole of Europe with the exception of Kosovo, where they’ve Population chosen the rather novel approach of switching it off for large Kosovo 2,153,139 (2008 estimate) periods of the day and night. When it works, electrical current Money Pristina 197,000 (2009 estimate) is 220 Volts and is distributed by Kosovo’s KEK electricity The euro (€, divided in 100 cents) is the official currency of Pristina district 401,335 (2009 estimate) company via standard European plugs. There are daily Kosovo, though Serbian dinars are also used in some Serb- Ethnic groups: Albanian 92%, Serb 5,3%, other 2,7%. power cuts, effectively caused by nobody bothering to pay majority areas. Euro banknotes come in denominations of €5, their electricity bills, and nobody really willing to do anything €10, €20, €50, €100, €200 and €500, and can look pretty Geography about it. Electricity in Kosovo is divided into three categories, crummy as they’re not replaced as often as in eurozone Kosovo is located in southeastern Europe in the central namely A, B and C. Categories are assigned according to countries. The coins, whose design depends on in which Balkan Peninsula. Entirely surrounded by high mountains how good individual areas of each municipality are at paying country they were minted in, come in denominations of its terrain is varied, ranging from high plains some 500 their electricity bills. Under normal circumstances category A €0.01, €0.02, €0.05, €0.10, €0.20, €0.50, €1 and €2. Cash metres above sea level to hills and mountains. The means an uninterrupted flow of the stuff. Category B is on for is king in Kosovo, though an increasing number of shops country is 10,908 km2, while Pristina covers 572 km2 five hours then off for one, and category C entitles you to four and restaurants is getting plugged into the grid. Although and can be found between 535 and 580 metres above on and two off. Under so-called extraordinary circumstances you can change money in banks and exchange offices and sea level. Kosovo is bordered by four countries, namely category A becomes B, B becomes C, and C has to suffer with grinning men in black leather jackets, ATMs are really Montenegro (border length 78.6km) to the northwest, power cuts for fifty percent of the time. This makes living (and the best way to get cash. Serbia (border 351.6km) to the north and northeast, socialising) a bit of an adventure to say the least. The daily Macedonia (border 158.7km) to the south and Albania ritual of revving up the smelly little home generator outside all (border 111.8km) to the west and southwest. The longest restaurants and shops is the defining and deafening sound of Religion river in Kosovo is the Drini i Bardhë (122km) that flows Pristina. In short, bring a torch. In winter, it’s important to ask Most Kosovan Albanians are officially Muslims, although an through Albania and out into the Adriatic. The highest if your room heater runs on electricity, and if the hotel has a unwitting traveller would hardly notice in urban areas. Kosovo, mountain is Gjeravica (2,656m), located in the Peja region back-up generators. If you’re living here, keep in mind that if like Albania, is quite secular and can not be compared with in the west of the country. there’s no electricity you’ll probably also lose water pressure, more religious places like Turkey or countries in the Middle so it’s a good idea to keep a few buckets of water handy just East. Although pork is not readily available, drinking and Local time in case Pristina goes Stone Age just when you’re shaving. smoking are practiced with enthusiasm, headscarves are Kosovo is in the Central European Time zone (CET), generally not worn by women, and mosque attendance is GMT+1 hour. When it’s 12:00 in Pristina it’s 06:00 in insignificant compared to the aforementioned countries. New York, 11:00 in London and 19:00 in Tokyo. Central Health Showing deep affection in public is not done. Kosovan Serbs European Summer Time (GMT+2 hours) runs from the Pristina can get very dusty when the wind from the west are mainly Orthodox Christians, a religion that has been last Sunday in March until the last Sunday in October. brings in dust pumped out of the electricity plant near town – around here since early medieval times, witness the many Ibrahim Rugova's desk in the Independence Museum don’t wear your white suit. Although the locals say the water magnificent monasteries. is safe to drink, it’s probably best to stick to bottled water, An alphabetical listing of seemingly random useful facts which is readily available; support the fledgling local economy Croatian-born inventor Nikola Tesla got a street during for the traveller. and buy the local Ola and Bonita brands. Smoking the reforms. Despite all this, most locals don’t have a clue Smoking is officially forbidden in all public institutions, about the new or even the former names, and sticking to educational institutions and healthcare institutions unless nearby landmarks like hotels or restaurants is your best Body language & Sounds Language there’s a smoking area. But in practice, all of Kosovo is a bet of finding anything. Like Bulgarians, Turks, Indians and a handful of others, the Albanian is Kosovo’s majority language – though you’ll find smoking area. locals here shake (or perhaps: wobble) their heads to mean English and Serbian translations on all official signs in Kosovo. ‘yes’ and nod (or rather jerk the head backwards while German and sometimes English is widely spoken by the many Toilets emitting a bold cluck) to mean ‘no’. Every time you see it refugees who returned to Kosovo after a few years in western Street names There are no public toilets in Pristina – your best bet done, it’s a pleasant little culture shock. Europe. The names of cities in Kosovo as well as all other Pristina has street names, with ‘rruga’ meaning street and is to walk into any hotel, café or restaurant and ask if Albanian nouns have two different endings. One is definite ‘sheshi’ meaning square, but most locals prefer not to use nature calls. You can’t count on sufficient toilet paper (Pejë), the other indefinite (Peja, or ‘the Peje’). Even when the them. Indeed, many hotels, shops and restaurants have so it’s a good idea to carry an emergency supply just in Crime & Safety names appear in English text, translators don’t agree on which no idea of the street name, let alone the number they’re case. Be aware that restaurant toilets can be unheated The well-being of honoured guests (you) is a major source of version to use. Add a dash of Serbian (Peć), and such ordinary at. The reasoning is that you can simply ask around when in winter – be quick. concern and pride for the locals, and rather than being mugged, you get lost, though this does make getting around town you’re more likely to be overwhelmed with hospitality. Despite a little challenging for foreigners. Staying true to ancient the locals’ friendly attitude, it’s important to stay alert for Climate Balkan habits, people just refer to places by mentioning Visas & Borders petty crime such as bag-snatching and hotel room or house nearby landmarks just like they did in the days they lived in Citizens of the EU, the USA and Canada and can stay burglaries. Lock up your valuables in the safe or leave them at Pristina has a predominantly continental climate, the village. So, if you’re looking for Rruga Luan Haradinaj, in Kosovo for 90 days without further paperwork. After home, and don’t wander around unlit alleys at night. Pedestrians meaning warm summers and cold, wet winters. ask for ‘police avenue’, and if you get directions to a place this period, extensions can be requested from the should be aware of holes in or bits of metal sticking out of the ‘opposite the police station’ you’ll need to be on Rruga Pristina’s main police office on Rr. Luan Haradinaj. Arrival 70 40 pavement, missing sewer lids and surprisingly deep puddles. Rexhep Luci. Until 1999, most streets in Pristina had formalities at the borders and airport are dealt with by Outside Pristina, if you don’t know the area, don’t leave asphalt 60 30 communist-inspired or Yugoslav names written in Serbo- Kosovo police staff wearing large 1955 NYPD hats. As or well trodden paths as there still are some mines. Croat. In 2001 the municipality decided on new names Serbia does not acknowledge Kosovo’s independence, it 50 20 for some 500 streets and squares, some named after considers it illegal for anyone to be there without a valid

40 10 famous Kosovans and Albanians, some after people we Serbian entry stamp, but as long as you enter and leave Disabled travellers all know. Out went Moskovska, Beogradska, Proleterska from a third country, there’s not much they can do about In Pristina we’re all equal and are all forced to dodge 30 0 and Partizanska. Kralja Petra I Oslobodioca became it. When travelling from Kosovo to Serbia note that you rainfall (mm)

speeding cars splashing through puddles, cross streets 20 -10 temperature (°C) Boulevard Bill Clinton, Marsal Tito became Nëna Tereza won’t be able to leave Serbia any other way than back with malfunctioning traffic lights, stumble across broken (Mother Teresa, an ethnic Albanian), Beogradska became via Kosovo. Entering Serbia from another country with pavements, jump over missing manhole covers and 10 -20 Fehmi Agani, and ‘Kosovo Film street’ became Rruga Toni a Kosovo border stamp in your passport may result in wiggle down ankle-twisting uneven steps. If you’re in a Bler. Other foreigners with their own streets here include petty harassment and a cool but otherwise meaningless 0 -30 wheelchair, forget it. Officially, all state buildings have ‘made Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Gustav Meyer, Henri Dynan, Holger Pedersen, Jukup Ferri, ‘annulled’ stamp firmly placed on top of it, but little else. arrangements’ for wheelchair users. What this actually rainfall average daily temp. (max) average daily temp. (min) Goethe, Johan Hahn, ‘Lord Bajron’, Miss Edit Durham, It’s not a problem to travel through Serbia to Kosovo and means is anyone’s guess. William Shakespeare and Viktor Hygo. Even the great then leave to a third country.

Pristina In Your Pocket pristina.inyourpocket.com pristina.inyourpocket.com Autumn - Winter 2009-2010 10 HISTORY HISTORY 11

The quarrel over just whom Kosovo belongs to goes back 1914 On June 28 the teenage Serbian nationalist Gavrilo There is however a distinct possibility that the decision will to the earliest accounts of life in the region and is split Princip assassinates the Austrian Archduke Franz Ferdinand be postponed until 2007. into two distinct camps. The Albanians believe that they in Sarajevo, changing the course of European and world are the direct descendents of the Illyrians, who were history forever. Austro-Hungarian and Bulgarian troops move 2006 October 29 In a referendum, Serbians vote in favour of arguably the first tribe to settle in the region. The Serbs into Kosovo, defeating the Serbs decisively. Many Kosovar a new constitution which asserts that Kosovo is an integral on the other hand see it rather differently, claiming that Albanians join the Austro-Hungarian army. Albanian language part of Serbia. Kosovo Albanians were not able to vote. the Albanians first arrived in Kosovo in the Middle Ages schools are opened to undermine the Serbian presence. (ie. after the Serbs), and are the descendents of a series 2008 The Declaration of Independence is signed on of intermarriages between nomadic shepherds and the Between the wars February 17, and thousands of people party the night away. unromanised remnants of the Illyrian-Dardanian tribes. In Between 1918 and 1941 the Serbs attempt a mass The new constitution is ratified in April. Based on Ahtisaari’s short, the current situation in Kosovo that led to the ethnic colonisation of Kosovo. Land is illegally taken away from the recommendations, it grants specific rights to minority groups. conflict in 1999 and independence in 2008 boils down Albanians and they are encouraged to leave. Many Albanians June: Parliament approves Mehdi Mengjiqi’s wordless song to who got there first. What is known for sure is that the resist, and the attempt fails. ‘Europe’ as Kosovo’s national anthem. region was conquered by Alexander the Great 300 years before the birth of Christ and became part of the Roman 1943 Yugoslavia consists of the republics of Slovenia, Croatia, 2009 In May, a local Raiffeisen bank manager and her province of Dardania in the 4th century. Serbia, Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro and Macedonia. Tito boyfriend are sentenced to six years in prison for stealing consolidates his supremacy and the rule of the Communist Prishtina train station clock €220,000 from the bank. 6th Century Slavs cross the Danube and move into the Party over all of Yugoslavia. For political reasons Tito favours Unlike Serbia, Macedonia and Montenegro, Kosovo is not Balkans. These migrations weaken the Byzantium Empire a Serbian-ruled Kosovo as he needs Serbian support to win 1991 The League for a Democratic Kosovo (LDK) is formed, included on the EU’s whitelist for visa-free travel in July, due sufficiently that Illyrian-speaking people, known to their them over to Communism. The Second League of Prizren is with 700,000 members. The LDK has offices in Zurich, to insufficient passport technology. neighbours as Albanians, move eastwards from the Adriatic founded by leading Albanian officials in Kosovo to campaign for Stuttgart and Brussels among other cities. The LDK is led In August Vetevendosje (self determination) protests against into the Kosovo region of the Balkans. Their language the ethnic unification of Albanians in Albania and Kosovo. Their by Dr. Ibrahim Rugova, whose ideology for independence was EULEX’ cooperation with Serbia on organised crime by becomes known as Albanian and their culture allies with aim is to ensure the formation of a greater Albania made up sought through a non-violent solution to the crisis. vandalising some 25 EULEX vehicles. Byzantium after the break up of the Catholic Church into of Albania, Kosovo and areas such as Debar (now in western The election commission denies the opposition parties’ Eastern and Western branches in 1054. Macedonia) that contain significant Albanian populations. 1993 - 1997 Ethnic tension and armed unrest escalate due demand to install cameras in all polling stations for the Bedri Pejani is appointed President of the League. to rising nationalism with the break-up of Yugoslavia and November 2009 local elections. 12th Century Almost all arable land in the region now known Serbia’s dissolution of the Kosovo Assembly. In defiance Miss Kosovo, Marigona Dragusha, comes third in the Miss as Northern Albania and Kosovo is in Slavic hands. By 1190 1946 The Yugoslav constitution fails to grant territorial autonomy of the Serbian authorities, ethnic Albanians elect Ibrahim Universe beauty contest in the Bahamas. Kosovo becomes the administrative and cultural centre of to Kosovo or recognise Albanian as a distinct nationality. Rugova as president of a self-proclaimed republic and set Pristina’s historical Union Hotel building is badly damaged by the Medieval Serbian state ruled by the powerful Nemanjic up a provincial assembly. fire. A homeless man living in the empty building is suspected dynasty. The dynasty lasts 200 years and still today Kosovo 1961 - 1971The combined impact of Albanian immigration, of accidentally starting the fire and is arrested. is known by the Serbs as Old Serbia. Serb emigration and a higher than average Albanian birth-rate, 1998 Fighting between the KLA and civilians on one side and the Albanian population in Kosovo increases from 67% to 74%. the Serbian military, paramilitary and police forces becomes 14th Century The battle of Kosovo Polje in 1389, in which a mainstay of media reporting throughout the world. In March Further reading the Serbs concede an honourable defeat to the Ottomans, 1967 Tito visits Kosovo for the first time. US Secretary of State Madeline Albright blames the Kosovo secures the region a place in Serbian minds. crisis squarely on the shoulders of Slobodan Milosevic. Kosovo: A Short History 1974 The new Yugoslav Constitution makes Kosovo an by Noel Malcolm. Pan, 15th Century Serbia, including Kosovo, is conquered by the autonomous province and it becomes one of eight federal 1999 On January 28, Nato warns that it’s ready to use 1998, 492 pages, ISBN Ottoman Turks in 1459. During this time the great majority units of the Yugoslavian Federation. Although not a republic, military force immediately. In February a conference is held at 0330412248. of Albanians are still Christians. Serbs and Albanians live its authority within the Federation is equal to that of Serbia. Rambouillet, France, to negotiate an end to the conflict. The Published just before the together in reasonable harmony. Gradually Albanians, and settlement, dictated by the West, demands that Yugoslavia NATO bombs started falling to a lesser extent Serbs, convert to Islam. 1980 Tito dies on May 4. withdraws its forces from Kosovo, that the KLA lays down in 1999, Noel Malcolm’s epic its arms, that NATO peacekeepers are placed on the ground history of Kosovo is generally 19th Century The League of Prizren is created on June 10, 1987 In February the Serbian government proposes to to enforce the agreement and a three-year period to settle acknowledged to be the most 1878 in a Mosque in Prizren, attended by some 300 Albanian take away Kosovo’s autonomy, despite having no right to the political future of Kosovo is put in place. The Albanian balanced critique of one of the nationalist leaders from what is now Kosovo, Macedonia, and do so. Slobodan Milosevic visits Kosovo for the first time representatives agree to sign the what’s known as the world’s most misunderstood, Muslim leaders from Bosnia-Herzegovina and the Sandzak. in April and replaces Ivan Stambolic as president later in Rambouillet Agreement. Milosevic refuses to sign and US historically enigmatic and The aim of the League is to achieve an autonomous Albanian the year. Milosevic gives a now famous speech in Kosovo President Bill Clinton dispatches special envoy Richard Holbrook politically sensitive regions. state made up of the former Ottoman vilayets of Shkodra, Illyria, Polje promising to return the two autonomous provinces of to Belgrade for one last meeting with Milosevic on March 22. An Oxford history graduate Chameria, Janina, Bitola and Kosovo. The 60-member board of Vojvodina and Kosovo to Serbian authority. Holbrook is unable to convince Milosevic to sign the agreement, and former political columnist the League, led by Abdyl Bey Frashëri, sends a letter to the Great and two days later on March 24 the bombing starts. After 73 for the Daily Telegraph, Malcolm’s colossal history Powers at the Congress of Berlin, asking for the settling of the 1990 Civil disturbances erupt throughout Kosovo by tens days of continuous bombing Serbian infrastructure is seriously attempts to understand the current situation in Kosovo Albanian issues resulting from the Turkish War. The memorandum of thousands of Albanian protesters. The complete removal damaged. in June 1999 Yugoslavia and NATO sign a peace by analysing almost every manuscript relating to the is ignored and the territories are given to Serbia and Montenegro. of autonomy is completed in September when a change in deal agreeing on the withdrawal from Kosovo of all Serbian demographics of the region written over the last fifteen the Serbian constitution redefines Kosovo as a region within military, police and paramilitary forces, the return of all refugees, hundred years. By looking at censuses, diaries, ancient 20th Century In the first Balkan War of 1912 Serbs join Serbia. Administrative and executive control is now in the and an international armed security presence in Kosovo with travelogues and other documents the book discovers the army in large numbers to avenge the Serbian defeat at hands of the Serbian National Assembly. ‘substantial’ NATO participation. The agreement also calls for more booby traps than answers, introduces the reader to the Battle of Kosovo Polje. They plunder and occupy Pristina respect of the territorial integrity of Yugoslavia. the strange and complicated world of the crypto-Catholic and the Albanian majority are forced into the surrounding and generally serves as an excellent tool for unlocking the mountains. Serb peasants follow the army into Kosovo and Government 1999 - 2006 The UN Security Council Resolution adopted strange and beautiful culture of the southern Balkans. re-occupy the region. After fierce battles the Serbs take on June 10, 1999 places Kosovo under UN administration. Despite his best efforts at neutrality, the author comes control of the region and Kosovo comes under Serbian Kosovo has a democratically elected government with On January 21, 2006 President Ibrahim Rugova dies of out of the book slightly in favour of the Albanians, but authority. At the Conference of Ambassadors in London in 120 members of parliament (on a four-year term) and cancer. In February, Fatmir Sejdiu, a law professor and he does remain apolitical enough to give the reader an 1912 presided over by Sir Edward Grey, the British Foreign with 20 seats reserved for minorities (10 for Serbs, 10 assembly deputy, is elected to succeed Rugova as president. entertaining as well as a thought-provoking read. If you’ve Secretary, Serbia is given sovereignty over Kosovo, which for others). At the moment, power is shared by a coalition Rugova’s death comes at the worst possible time, at a got enough room in your hand luggage or are a kilo or it retains to this day. For the first time in history Albania is between Kosovo’s Democratic Party (PDK) and Kosovo’s crucial point in the negotiations to reach a final solution to so under with your baggage allowance, the book is well internationally recognised. The Treaty of London in 1913 Democratic League (LDK). The president is Fatmir Sejdiu, Kosovo crisis. Marti Ahtisaari, the former Finish President worth bringing along with you as it’s unlikely you’ll finish it declares Albania a fully independent and sovereign state. in office since February 10, 2006, and the Prime Minister and status negotiator in Kosovo is expected to make an unless you start reading it a year or so before you leave. The population of Kosovo remains mostly Albanian, and anti- is Hashim Thaçi, in office since January 9, 2008. official statement about full independence in September Heavy stuff indeed. Serb sentiment continues to bubble just under the surface. 2006 when he meets UN Secretary General Kofi Annan.

Pristina In Your Pocket pristina.inyourpocket.com pristina.inyourpocket.com Autumn - Winter 2009-2010 12 CULTURE & EVENTS WHERE TO STAY 13

Pristina's cultural life is undergoing a revival after several plays and shows. With help from the authorities and Pristina's accommodation market is small but growing; it desolate decades. sponsors, the theatre has revived after a difficult period offers a limited selection of locally-run hotels with surpris- Symbol key of censorship, forced management and staff changes and ingly small price differences between them. Despite what Cinemas a dictated repertoire between 1981 and 1999. In that they may claim, few places rise above three-star standard. P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted period some directors and actors went underground to Pristina has a reputation for having average, expensive H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled Currently there are two small cinemas in town, though performed illegal plays, some performed at the Dodona hotels, and does suffer somewhat from an all-expenses- there are longstanding plans for a five-screen multiplex. theatre. Performances start at 20:00. paid-all-choices-made foreigner market, but its reputation R Dataport L Guarded parking is undeserved, but the best hotels are all central and F Fitness centre G Non-smoking rooms Kino ABC ODA Theatre (Teatri ODA) A-2/3, Rr. Luan Hara- affordable. B-2, Rr. Rexhep Luci 1, tel. +381 38 24 31 17, www. dinaj, Pallati i Rinisë dhe i Sporteve, 111, tel. +381 K Restaurant C Swimming pool kinoabc.info. Kino ABC and its sister ABC-1 show Hol- 38 24 65 55, [email protected], www.teatrioda. W Wi-Fi lywood releases, documentaries and occasionally have com. A small independent theatre founded in late 2002 Upmarket film festivals. Find the English-language programme on and kicking off in style with the controversial play 'Vagina Upmarket for their prices, these hotels with doubles priced the website. Monologues'. Besides plays, the theatre has music, film over €100 per night are good - but not always the best Prishtina A-3, Rr. Kosta Novakovic 20, tel. +381 38 and art exhibitions, and is known for hosting the Jazz value. 22 32 84, fax +381 38 22 52 94, reservations@hotel- Kino ABC-1 A-2, Rr. Migjeni, tel. +381 38 22 20 86, festival every November. ODA works together with New prishtina.com, www.hotelprishtina.com. Better value than www.kinoabc.info. The ABC-1 cinema has a large, modern York's Blessed Unrest theatre. There's a pleasant café Ambasador B-3, Rr. Ardian Krasniqi 1, tel. +381 38 24 most others, the Prishtina is perhaps the best city centre hall with cheerful rainbow-coloured seating. with an art book library too. Adjacent to the car park 83 00, fax +381 38 24 85 00, info@hotel-ambasador. hotel. It has large and modern rooms with soft beds, big behind the Pallati i Rinesë complex. Q Admission to com, www.hotel-ambasador.com. Pristina’s best hotel TVs and free minibar. The apartments are downright swanky, performances €3-7. is defined by its elegant central atrium space that is clad each with their own sauna booth. Downstairs there’s a good Cultural centres with natural stone. The rooms include elegant doubles, restaurant. Walking distance to anywhere you’d need to be.Q British Council A - 3, Rr. Perandori Justinian 6, tel. sweet suites and apartments with big Jacuzzi tubs in the 43 rooms (5 singles €70, 10 doubles €100, 4 suites €115, +381 38 243 29 21 01, [email protected], Events open bathrooms. The fifth-floor restaurant, complete with 14 apartments €115-150). PHARFLGKCW www.britishcouncil.org/kosovo. Travellers are welcome fireplace, is for hotel guests only. The best surprise is the to visit and read books and newspapers in the library. To 9/11 Dedication Festival sauna area in the basement. Just east of the city centre, Victory Bul. i Dëshmorëve, tel. +381 38 54 32 77, take items including CDs and DVDs home, membership is The 6th edition of this film festival that commemorates beside the Swiss embassy. Q 20 rooms (3 singles €80- fax +381 38 54 32 86, [email protected], www. required (€20-40 per year). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed the 9/11 attacks takes place from 8 to 11 September 92, 11 doubles €109, 3 suites €126, 3 apartments €149). hotel-victory.com. Located between two busy roads on the Sat, Sun. 2009 at Pristina’s National Theatre. It features short PLKDW southern edge of town, the Victory is popular with foreigners, films (5-30 minutes) by local directors, all provided though is rather pricey compared to some city-centre hotels. Espace Culturel Français (Qendra Kulturore with English subtitles. For more information email Baci Rr. Ulpiana I/1, tel. +381 38 54 83 56, fax +381 As a plus, the bathrooms feature neo-Rococco toilets that we Franceze) Bul. Nëne Tereza, tel. +377 44 30 90 94, [email protected], call +381 38 50 07 23 or see 38 54 83 58, [email protected], www.baci- haven’t seen anywhere else in ten years of hotel reviewing. [email protected], www.ecf-prishtina.org. The French cul- www.911fest.com. company.com. Baci is a modern hotel on the southern Rooms have good central heating and there’s a thermo- tural centre in the French departement of Pristina University end of the city, along the main road into town. Behind the massage centre in the hotel. It’s easy to spot as you drive offers language courses, a library (€10 per year) with books, PriFilmFest mirror glass facade, the wooden lobby is a grand affair into town from Skopje - look for the building with Lady Liberty CDs and DVDs, and organises events. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00, Kosovans love film festivals, as proven by the first with a fountain and attentive staff. Rooms are modern, stuck on the roof. Q42 rooms (singles €80, doubles €100, Mon, Tue 10:00 - 15:00; 17:00-19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. edition of the Pristina International Film Festival, held standard but efficient and fitted out with showers - the suites €120). PHALKW at the Kino ABC cinema from 22 to 30 September only problem is the street noise; take a room facing the 2009. The great actress Vanessa Redgrave (truly back for peace. Free laundry service included. Q 22 Music & Dance unforgettable as Jane in Michelangelo Antonioni’s 1966 rooms (singles €76, doubles €100, apartments €130- Mid-range Kosova Ballet (Trupa e Baletit e Kosovës) B-2, Bul. film Blowup) will preside over the jury, which hands 180). PHARLK The mid-range hotels, with double rooms priced from €70 Nëna Tereza 21, tel. +381 38 22 43 97. The trupa was out awards in six categories. The prize is a ‘Golden per night, offer some good-value kip. established in 1972, within the National Theatre of Pristina, Goddess’ award; a stylish golden version of Pristina’s Gorenje Niti Tiki Veternik, tel./fax +381 38 55 77 with the first 27 ballet dancers having graduated in Skopje. 6000-year old Hynesha në Fron statue. For more 00, [email protected], www.hotelgorenjen- Afa B-4, Rr. Ali Kelmendi 15, tel. +381 38 22 77 22, fax After a ten year break due to the conflict, the first School of information contact tel. +381 38 22 11 44, email info@ ititiki.com. Just out of town, this tall building is instantly +381 38 24 46 82, [email protected], www.hotelafa. Ballet established in 2000. The group occasionally performs prifilmfest.org or see www.prifilmfest.org. visibly along the Skopje highway, and as you’d expect, the com. One of our favourite hotels in Kosovo - if you ignore in the National Theatre building. rooms on the top floors offer great views all round. With the idiosyncratic plumbing. Featuring friendly receptionists Prishtina Jazz Festival several modern conference rooms, the hotel that’s linked and some rather large and well-furnished rooms, Afa shines Kosova Philharmony & Opera (Opera e Kosovës) In November 2009 Pristina hosts the fifth edition of to the Slovenian Gorenje manufacturing group is firmly brightly above many hotels in Pristina that charge more. B-3, Rr. Sylejman Vokshi, tel. +381 38 24 49 39. The the annual Prishtina Jazz Festival. Held in the ODA geared towards business. The restaurant near the top of Other bonuses include fast laundry service, chambermaids Philharmony and Opera orchestra has about 100 members theatre, just behind the Pallati i Rinise complex, there the building has equally good views and lists fresh fish and who ask you if you’re happy with their work and a super and performs irregulary. is a concert every evening at 20:00, with bands from frogs legs on the menu. Q 18 rooms (14 doubles €101, 4 secluded garden out the back. Q 52 rooms (singles €45- across the region and beyond. Tickets are €5 per apartments €101), 20% less for stays of more than one 69, doubles 75-92, apartment €92-112). 15% off on Fri/Sat. concert or €25 for the whole festival, and are for sale night. PHREKW PHARLKD Theatres at the theatre. For more information and bookings, Dodona Puppet Theatre C-2, Rr. Xhavit Mitrovica, see www.jazzprishtina.com or call Teatri ODA at +381 Grand A-3, Bul. Nëna Tereza, tel. +381 38 22 02 tel. +381 38 23 06 23, [email protected]. Putting 38 24 65 55. 10, fax +381 38 24 81 38, [email protected], on puppet, children's and youth shows since 1986, the www.grandhotel-pr.com. An unfortunate misnomer, Purchasing power Dodona Theatre is very popular with the local kids. During Skena Up Film & Theatre Festival this 1977 building that dominates central Pristina is How far does your euro. pound or dollar go in Pristina? the repressive years of the 1990s, this was the only Alba- The 7th edition of the Skena Up, from 4-11 December the hotel that foreigners love to hate. Former EU com- nian cultural institution that was not completely restricted. 2009, is a visual arts festival with a competitive missioner Chris Patten named it the worst hotel in the Exchange rates (Aug 31, 2009): €1 = £0.88 = US$1.43 In and after 1999, the theatre did performances for child world, “unbelievably grim, clearly built for the politburo element. It’s dedicated to film and theatre students Product Price refugees across the region, and has also toured Kosovo and aims to bring new works to a wide audience and of the Yugoslav Communist Party”. The time-warp lobby villages with a puppet show warning children of the danger is indeed perfect for getting an idea of what Yugoslavia Espresso €0.50 to bring together artists and audiences from varying Glass of local beer (0.5 litre) €1.50 of landmines - which perhaps explains why the puppets all felt like. The shabby rooms are just about acceptable for cultural backgrounds. As it involves students, there Mineral water (1 litre) €1 have wooden legs. sleeping in, though not at these prices - and you even will be plenty of beer and parties too. Shows are at Mars bar €0.40 the National Theatre and Kino ABC cinema. For more have to pay extra for wifi access which is free in many Hamburger €1 National Theatre B-2, Bul. Nëna Tereza 21, tel. information on the programme and ticketing, see other hotels. The Grand is apparently slated for privatisa- Cinema ticket €3 +381 38 22 43 97, www.teatrikombetar.eu. Founded www.skenaup.com, contact [email protected] or tel. tion - we suggest demolition. Q 369 rooms (184 singles Public transport ticket €0.30 in 1946 in Prizren, the birthplace of all cultural things +381 38 72 24 63. €70, 175 doubles €100, triples €120, 2 suites €180-250, 100km by bus or train €3 Albanian, the National Theatre puts on Albanian-language 8 apartments €200). HALKW

Pristina In Your Pocket pristina.inyourpocket.com pristina.inyourpocket.com Autumn - Winter 2009-2010 14 WHERE TO STAY 20 Vaso Pasha Street Payton Place 10000 Prishtina, Kosova Tel. +381 38 22 32 84 Fax +381 38 22 52 94 [email protected] www.hotelprishtina.com

The Kosovo Museum

Ora B-2, Rr. A.Z. Çajupi 4, tel./fax +381 38 23 37 09, Royal A-3, Rr. Pashko Vasa 3, tel. +381 38 22 [email protected], www.hotelora.com. An excellent 09 02, fax +381 38 22 09 03, info@royalhotel-pr. mid-range business hotel on a quiet street just north of the com, www.royalhotel-pr.com. A modern hotel on a centre, best reached from the eastern end of Rruga UÇK. The quiet road in Pejton, close to bars and offices. Apart Ora has good-sized rooms in bright colours, a restaurant/bar from elegant rooms, it boasts a restaurant, bar, an and extremely dedicated, friendly staff. A short walk from most underground indoor pool and sauna. There are laun- Hotel Prishtina is located in the heart of the city’s international organisation offices. Q 35 rooms (19 singles €60, 4 dry and dry cleaning services and an airport tranfser doubles €80, 12 apartments €80-100). PALGBKXW service. Room 112 is the Nicole Kidman suite - it was most important business district. Our 43 charming good enough for her, so why not for you? Q 44 rooms Pandora Apartments A-2, Rr. Zagrebi 19, tel. +377 44 (singles €80, doubles €92, apartments €135-150). guest rooms and suites are reminiscent of a small 18 25 58. Lead the high life in the Pandora Tower’s handful of PHAFLKDCW top-floor deluxe apartments - each quite large and equipped hotel in the European tradition. You'll immediate- with a Jacuzzi, wifi, a free minibar and panorama windows displaying Pristina in all its dusty glory. A short walk across Budget ly feel at home in our living room, sipping a glass of the railway tracks to the bars and restaurants on Rruga Penny-pinching businessmen and travellers will find good wine in our fine restaurant surrounded by a gallery Fehmi Agani. Q 5 rooms (apartments €79-€109). PKW value accommodation in these hotels, with double rooms priced from €30. of paintings by local artists. Pejton A-3, Rr. Pashko Vasa 14a, tel. +381 38 22 22 04/+377 44 30 80 80, [email protected], www. Adria Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi, Arbëria, tel./fax +381 38 The hotel offers free fast wifi internet, complimen- hotelpejton.com. Next door and similar to the Real, this small 22 62 22, [email protected], www.hoteladria- modern hotel has a handful of nicely-furnished rooms just a ks.com. Near to the embassy district and along the main tary breakfast, conference room, swimming pool, short walk from the city centre. Two of the rooms feature road west, Adria offers great views over southern Pristina Jacuzzis, and four minibar drinks are on the house. Q 12 from some of its well-sized rooms. The new rooms at the sauna and laundry service. Just step out the door rooms (10 singles €69, 2 doubles €92). KW rear of the complex are away from the traffic noise and are fabulously kitschy, each with a different design involving and you'll find art galleries, bars, specialty shops, Pllaza A-3, Rr. Kosta Novakovic 22, tel. +381 38 22 20 plenty of Baroque frills and doors with a red HAL light scan- 09, fax +381 38 22 33 09, [email protected], www. ning the corridor.Q 17 rooms (singles €39, doubles €59, theaters and restaurants, all within easy walking hotelpllaza.com. The fourth and latest addition to Pristina’s apartments €79). PKW hotel row, the Pllaza has comfortable rooms with rustic distance. landscapes on the walls and balconies. The friendly staff Begolli B-1, Rr. Maliq Pash Gjinolli 8, tel. +377 44 30 and a nice ground-floor café/restaurant round off the offer.Q 80 93/+381 38 24 42 77, [email protected], 12 rooms (10 singles €69, 2 doubles €92). PALKW www.hotelbegolli.com. Tucked away in the heart of the bustling bazaar, the Begolli is quite simply a jewel of a find. Real A-3, Rr. Kosta Novakovic 14, tel. +381 38 24 52 With lots of brass and marble in the lobby and a gaggle of 70, fax +381 38 22 50 29, [email protected]. A charming receptionists, the rooms are literally full of eastern mirror-image of the attached Pejton Hotel, the Real is a small promise, with lots of crazy colour schemes, soft, bright drapes central hotel offering small but nice rooms with Hollywood all over the place and DVD players. Some rooms come with a ceilings and balconies. The renovated rooms on the fourth balcony overlooking the bazaar, whereas others feature huge floor come in delicate pastel colours. There’s no satellite TV baths or, if you're lucky, massive sauna/Jacuzzi cabins. The Business & Holidays... in the rooms, but a couple of drinks from the minibar are on best budget hotel in town. Q 23 rooms (3 singles €30-40, the house. Q 12 rooms (11 singles €60, 1 doubles €80). 18 doubles €40-60, 1 triple €60, 5 apartments €40-100). HALKDW PALKDW withh Hotel Prishtina Pristina In Your Pocket pristina.inyourpocket.com 16 WHERE TO STAY RESTAURANTS 17

Luxor Rr. Nazim Gafurri, tel. +381 38 51 78 88, reserva- First impressions when scouring Pristina for something [email protected], www.hotelluxor.net. The best choice Coming soon to nibble can make you wish you'd brought sandwiches. Symbol key for those who appreciate peace, quiet and jogging, the Luxor However, like so many other things in the city, don't let is set in the quiet green surroundings of Gërmia park, two Iliria B-2, Bul. Nëna Tereza, tel. +377 44 261 358. appearances fool you. A largish Balkan city populated P Air conditioning B Outside seating The Iliria’s worn and weary rooms are undergoing a much kilometres east of the city centre. The large rooms have big by Albanians and rich Westerners ensures that eating A Credit cards accepted L Guarded parking windows, balconies with views and come with proper show- needed renovation. We’ll report on the newly arisen hotel out in Pristina is deliciously varied, and more than often ers. The restaurant is surprisingly good, with a palm-lined as soon as it is reopened. excellent. Eating out is cheap too in Prishtina, with main E Occasional live music S Ta k e a wa y terrace outside.Q 14 rooms (8 singles €50-90, 6 doubles courses often under €10. You'll soon be endlessly dazzled G No smoking €60-70). PLW by superb salads, lashings of lamb, fabulous white cheese, to three people to renovated albeit very simple apartments. the very best of Turkish food, passable pizza and much Lyon C-3, Rr. Robert Gajdiku 91, tel. +381 38 22 09 Clean and basic, this hotel features lurid red and green cor- more besides. Ignore the battalions of beleaguered expats variety of other toppings and sauces for just €1,50. Other 97/+377 44 24 50 82, [email protected]. Up on ridors, a handful of satellite television channels, a few rooms who tell you what a dreadful experience Pristina is, and snacks available for dog haters. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. the hill east of the centre, and overlooking the park with war with small Jacuzzis and a garage for two cars.Q 33 rooms simply tuck in. Who cares if the waiter has a cigarette in Closed Sun. B graves, the Lyon is a decent budget option for those driving, (singles €30, doubles €40, triples €60, apartments €60, suite his mouth? He really is genuinely pleased to serve you. willing to take taxis or to slog up the hill. Rooms are compact, €99). PHALKW Route 66 A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +381 38 22 72 modern and clean but hard to heat in winter. The quiet rooms 25/+377 44 93 86 66. A fun, bright and brash American are at the back. On our first visit, the bouncy rubber lion on Chinese diner right opposite the UN compound. The menu includes the reception desk suggested the hotel name was victim of Cheap Chinese Restaurant A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +377 classics such as chicken burgers, buffalo wings, fajitas an unfortunate misspelling.Q19 rooms (10 singles €30, 7 Who said that sleeping in Pristina is expensive? It's pos- 44 38 49 28. Popular with foreigners looking to spice up and nachos, and takes the Micky out of UNMIK with its doubles €40, 2 triples €50 ). PALKW sible to get a decent double room for €30 or less. Here their meals (witness the expat trophy badges and flags on Bondsteel sandwich (named after the largest US military you can get an Oriental-style double room with DVD player display), this aptly named restaurant is nicely done up with camp), and the Bill Clinton enchilada (with extra chilli sauce). Newborn B-3, Rr. Nak Berisha, tel. +381 38 22 71 for the same price as a sagging dorm bed in a smelly lanterns and painted masks. The short menu offers Chinese The platter for two is €5,50. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 20, fax +381 38 22 71 35, www.hotel-newborn.com. Barcelona hostel. classics, including dumplings, seafood and pork options, at 08:00 - 02:00. B A small and quiet retreat that's named after the fledgling around €5; try the sizzler plates or ask the cook (who is from republic and within walking distance of the city centre. A Guesthouse Velania (Profesor) Rr. Emrush Miftari Harbin) for a recommendation. If you just can't get enough, dozen simple but adequate rooms in various shades of red 4/34, Velania, tel. +381 38 53 17 42/+377 44 16 the restaurant also offers foot, head, ear and other mas- Fish overlook the dead-end street or the garden and come with 74 55, [email protected], www.guesthouse- sages, starting at €25 per hour. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun Rio 2 A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani. Fish, glorious fresh fish, from wifi and satellite TV. Q 12 rooms (singles €49, doubles ks.com. Also known as Guesthouse Profesor, Pristina's 12:00 - 22:00. (€2-15). S the Adriatic or from Kosovo's lakes and streams. Sea bass, €69). PKW cheapest accommodation is run by an affable former squid, octopus salad, scampi pizza, Mexican fish filet and electronics professor who studied in the UK. The rooms pancakes for desert are a few samples from the menu. Princi i Arbërit Rr. Vellezerit Fazliu, Kodra e Trimave, in the three-storey house have a hotch-potch of furniture Fast food QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. S tel. +381 38 24 42 44, fax +381 38 24 44 42, info@ but are mostly spacious and adequate, each with satellite For the local take on fast food, see the Burek listings. hotel-princiiarberit.com, www.hotel-princiiarberit. TV, electric heaters a private bathroom. Breakfast is not Villa Corona Rr. Nazim Gafurri, tel. +381 38 51 70 com. A great hotel, unfortunately stuck on the northeast included, but rooms share well-equipped kitchens, there's Hot Dog Adi A-3, Rr. Luan Haradinaj, tel. +377 44 51 00/+377 44 50 95 90. The quiet surroundings of Germia edge of town. The Princi has elegant, spacious rooms, good a free laundry service and a few communal balconies. The 93 94. Hot dogs, hot dogs get yer hot dogs at Adi's base- park, only disturbed by the restaurant's fountains and the soft business facilities and a great little entertainment centre professor was delighted to see us, as despite being men- ment hot dog emporium, with mustard, mayo, ketchup or a scurrying of waiters' feet, are perfect for a relaxed seafood or with pool tables, pool and even a bowling centre. Q 23 tioned in a few travel guides, In Your Pocket was the first meat-based meal. Upmarket furnishings and knowledgeable rooms (2 singles €40, 16 doubles €50, 5 suites €80-150). to actually visit. Find Velania up the hill east of the centre staff complete the experience. Near the Luxor hotel.QOpen PHAFKDCW behind the Lyon hotel. If the guesthouse is full, the profes- Menu decoder 07:00 - 24:00. (€2-12). PB sor's brother has an additional 20 similar rooms in a house Sara B-1, Rr. Maliq Pash Gjinolli, tel. +381 38 23 62 03, nearby. Q (singles €10-15, doubles €15-20. triples €25-30, Meat & Fish Mish & Peshk [email protected], www.hotelsara-medi.com. apartments €25-35). W beef Mish lope Indian Very good value accommodation in the heart of the bazaar, chicken pulë Himalayan Gorkha A-2, Rr. UÇK 17, Qafa Centre, tel. Sara comes with a galaxy of plain choices from rooms for one Xhema B-1, Rr. Maligjash Gjinollli, tel. +377 44 17 lamb mish qeng ji +377 44 23 56 68, [email protected]. 76 65, [email protected], www.hotelxhema.com. pork mish derri Indian food with a Himalayan twist. It's a bit of a expedition Featuring lush oriental rooms with heaps of chintzy wall hang- sausage suxhuk to find the modestly sized and furnished restaurant on the Airport hotels ings and a distinctly feminine feel, Xhema is hidden just off veal mish viçi first floor of the evil Qafa shopping centre, but the food is as the main road in a peaceful part of the city centre. Facilities schnitzel shnitcell authentic as it comes, with lovely Tibetan chicken and mut- These two small airport hotels are in the town nearest include cable television, the ubiquitous bazaar hotel Jacuzzi fish mish peshku ton momos (dumplings), tandoor dishes and some Chinese to the airport. Not great, but you never know when you and a DVD player in the studio room. There's no restaurant, salmon salmon food from across the mountain passes too. Free delivery to might need them. but the surrounding area features plenty of options for eating sea food ushqim deti nearby offices, and take-away too. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. out. Good value for little money.Q 7 rooms (3 doubles €25, trout troftë (€3-6). PS Aviano Sllatina, tel. +377 44 17 99 12, mail@aviano. 4 apartments €60). LW com. For the desperate ones who arrive too late or depart Fruits and vegetables Pemët dhe perimet Mumtaz Mahal Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi, Arbëria, tel. +377 too early from Pristina airport to make it to town, this Dorms & Rooms apple mollë 44 11 47 26. Next to the Adria hotel along the Mitrovica motel along the main road of the village near the airport banana banane road, and overlooking the city from its high perch, Pristina's has small, functional rooms and a huge restaurant. The There's no proper hostel in Pristina yet, nor many private cabbage lakër best Indian restaurant serves up curries that have expats hotel sign features a large F-16 fighter plane - hopefully rooms. Internationals looking for long-term accommoda- carrot karotë reaching for the fire extinguishers, a proper tandoor oven you won’t see too many of those. Q (singles €30, doubles tion can expect to be fleeced by the locals to pay up to eggplant patëllxhan churning out tasty dishes and naan. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. €40, triples €45). PARLK €700 a month for a fleapit room. mushrooms këpurdha (€3-5). orange portokall Fitimi Sllatina, tel. +377 44 29 80 98. Four very basic, University dorms Rr. Agim Ramadani, tel. +381 38 22 peppers speca fairly clean and rather small rooms with local television, 39 51 ext. 220/+377 44 22 02 53. Prishtina University tomatoes domate Home delivery big comfy beds and unrenovated bathrooms. Exceed- has 5 dorm buildings with 1,060 rooms and 2,872 beds ingly local, expect not one word of English to be spoken available that are occasionally available to travellers - call Drinks pijet Proper Pizza Rr. Agim Ramadani 24, tel. +377 44 here or for that matter the sort of pleasant Albanian and ask for Mr. Isak Beha. beer birrë 13 13 10/+381 38 54 21 82, [email protected], hospitality you find almost everywhere in Kosovo. Find it juice lëng www.properpizza.com. Huge tasty, proper pizzas, feed- close to the junction where the airport and Pristina roads Zogu C-4, Vellusha, tel./fax +381 38 24 44 19, tel. wine verë ing 1-4 people, delivered steaming to your front or hotel meet.Q(singles €30, doubles €40). +377 44 19 98 74, [email protected]. An agency for water ujë room door. Q (€3-4,50). budget housing, both long and short term.

Pristina In Your Pocket pristina.inyourpocket.com pristina.inyourpocket.com Autumn - Winter 2009-2010 18 RESTAURANTS RINGS Gizzi Grill Pristina-Skopje highway, Grand Store mall, tel. Food with a view +377 44 65 59 66, www.gizzigroup.com. Perhaps the best Food Wine & café thing to come to Kosovo since the Ottomans, Gizzi Grill is a popular Pandora A-2, Rr. Zagrebi 19, tel. +377 44 18 25 58. restaurant set beside the mall, serving just about anything you'd Compared to a “twinkling 10-storey imperial destroyer like. There's a Mexican and US breakfast (with pork bacon), goulash, from Star Wars” by the Financial Times, Pristina’s first some excellent lunch sandwiches and burgers, steaks, salads, fish skyscraper has a panorama lift shooting you up to dishes and to top it all off, a selection of local cuisine. Especially the top floor where there’s a restaurant (serving pizza, popular with the after party clubbing crowd.QOpen 24hrs. Also in pasta, fish and grilled meat) and terrace with views. One Kodra e Diellit (Sunny Hill), Zona e perendimit L5. PBW floor up is the bar where customers and their drinks are stirred anti-clockwise on the rotating floor. QOpen Hani i 2 Robertëve A-3, Rr. Zahir Pajaziti, tel. +377 44 11 12:00 - 24:00. (€3-10). 26 09/+377 44 11 72 19. The 'two Roberts' have found an unusual setting for their excellent restaurant (behind the Pallati i Rinisë, beyond the car park), and it's a popular venue for dinners and receptions. The han (inn) has pizza, grilled meat, pasta, and International a suprisingly wide range of seafood on the menu, as well as a A&A B-4, Rr. Rexhep Mala 39, tel. +381 38 23 95 good selection of wines. Live music at night; jazz on Wednesdays. 35/+377 44 16 17 13. A small restaurant on a side Book ahead. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€3-12). EB street west of the centre. Smartly dressed waiters pop in and out of the kitchen to bring well-prepared salads, home Home A-2, Rr. Migjeni, tel. +377 44 33 63 36/+381 38 22 made pastas and dishes such as pan-grilled eggplant 40 41, [email protected]. For many expats working in with mint and vinagar or birjani chicken. Unfortunately the Pristina, this is as close to home as it gets - the chef cook worked no-smoking signs are ignored by most patrons and we in London and conjures up great breakfasts and divine dinners. ended up eating lots of smoke with our dinner. QOpen Try the Greek chicken, the eggplant tower with tomatoes, or 07:30 - 23:00. GB a local specialities such as llokuma (wedding doughnuts) or pershut (dried meat). With two small, dark rooms and quality Amaro B-2, Bul. Nëna Teresa 29, tel. +377 44 27 83 music playing, the atmosphere inside is relaxed and intimate. Rings restaurants mark a new era in Prishtina’s gastronomy scene. The ﬁrst 13. A small restaurant decorated with wood panelling and QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (€2-7,5). B pictures of old Pristina. The menu here is standard inter- Rings was open in March 2002 and was named after the many circles national, with the Parisian veal as its standout. QOpen Lounge Food & More A-3, Rr. Perandori Justinian C2, visible in the restaurant. Today there are ﬁve restaurants: 07:00 - 24:00. tel. +381 38 73 74 75, www.lounge-prishtina.com. A bustling, barn-like place facing Bulevard Nëna Tereza that Chalet Denis Rr. Ahmet Krasniqi, Arbëria, tel. +377 does a bit of everything - sandwiches and home made pasta The newest Rings measures over 1000m2 and offers exclusive design and 44 79 91 18. This wooden chalet by the Adria hotel offers for lunch; Italian and seafood dinners; cocktail, beer and wine good views of town from the terrace and has ample seating specials at night and lavish brunches and rocking club music international standards. With various exclusive Italian food and Italian at its wooden cartwheel chairs and tables to feed local and on weekends.QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (3-10). international dishes to dozens of people. Speciality of the and French wines, Rings is a unique and relaxing place to hang out with house is the Omelet Chateau Denis which basically contains Mozaik B-3, Rr. Sylejman Vokshi, tel. +381 38 24 76 friends and family. Or bring your business partners for dinner or a meeting everything. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (€4-8). 34. A classy-looking upmarket restaurant with congenial staff that's perfect for a quiet business meal. There's lamb, in the private business rooms or conference room. De Rada A/B-2, Rr. UÇK 50, tel. +381 38 22 26 22. grilled meats and pasta to choose from, but don't be afraid to Named after a romantic Albanian-Italian writer, this upmar- order the house speciality, the spicy Mozaik Burger. QOpen ket restaurant serves up home made pasta, fillet steaks, 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. LW fresh bread, salads, daily specials and more. With the light music, some poetry and old photos on the walls, it's a Parcae A-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani, tel. +377 44 22 27 96. An decent choice, though the waiters got bad marks from a upmarket restaurant near the OSCE office, rather obviously few PIYP readers recently.QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed owned by an architect; the space is filled with an unusual com- Sun. (€6-8). LBW bination of gold, brown and red shapes and colours. The Italian- inspired menu lists Filet Parcae with pershut meat, and fresh Edi-1 A-2, Rr. Luan Haradinaj 6, tel. +377 44 12 47 15. trout.QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€2-7,5). PLB This functional-looking restaurant stands out with its dishes from Zhuri, the owner's village, such as pastry with veal and Pjata B-3, Rr. Gazmend Zajmi 1, tel. +381 38 22 07 39, mushrooms. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. (€3-9). PB [email protected], www.pjata.com. With a modern interior featuring plenty of wood, paintings and shelves of wine, Pjata Ex B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 3/8, tel. +377 44 55 77 00. A is a small but popular restaurant serving pasta, various meat superb place for spotting Kosovo politicos and other celebri- dishes, salads and some good cakes for dessert. The set ties wolfing down excellent dishes like there's no tomorrow. lunch is €7,50 though booking ahead is recommended on Attentive staff can advise when you're wondering if you weekdays. Find Pjata at the bottom end of the street. QOpen should take the Finnish beef or the Thai noodles with curry, 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (€3-14). B the Malaysian saté or the fresh mussels, or perhaps the teriyaki... or the Indian barbecue chicken. Vegetarians are Rings B-2, Bul. Nëna Tereza 16, tel. +377 44 24 79 99, well catered too. Booking ahead is wise, especially for lunch. www.restaurantrings.com. Pristina's classiest new restaurant QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 16:00 - 23:00. (€2-6). is the flagship of the local Rings chain, and consists of a large RINGS interior with dining and lounging happening around a central bar. Gagi Café B-2, Rr. Fehmi Agani 12, tel. +386 49 52 25 Like the five other Rings outlets, the food is international, tasty and Tel. 049/044 247 999 11, [email protected]. A dazzlingly modern three-storey well-priced; try the beefsteak with mozzarella. For a bit of privacy [email protected], www.restaurantrings.com venue with food served on all floors, and plenty of terraces to you can book one of the smaller function rooms, some of them enjoy the sun. The menu includes fresh calamari, frogs' legs with big windows to keep an eye on the hoi polloi outside. QOpen and delicious home made cheese cake. The piano is tinkled on 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. Also on Rr. Luan Haradinaj Locations: Rings 2: opposite the police station; Rings 3: opposite the Swiss embassy; Thursday and Saturday. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (tel. +381 38 24 79 99) and four other locations. (€5-15). PB Rings 4: beside the KEK building; Rings 5: Santeja; New Rings: Nënë Terezë Boulevard.

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