News: Kosovo Independence Anniversary Brings Mixed Emotions

February 26 - March 11, 2010 Issue No. 34 www.prishtinainsight.com Free copy

GUIDE Try Prishtina’s Museums on a Grey Day > page 8

FEATURE Curtain Yet to Rise on Stand-up in Kosovo > page 7

ARTE Artists Take Kosovo’s Isolation Worries Criminals Walk Free in to EU’s Heart Kosovo’s Lawless North > page 9 The huge backlog of court cases in the divided town of Mitrovica means that even when police arrest crime suspects, CITY they rarely face justice. London Cabs Cause minor offences are often being maintains effective rule of law January 2009 but have only dealt By Petrit Collaku released on the same day. there. with a handful of cases. Road Rage Mitrovica has been a crucible of The courthouse in the north of Cases in the southern, govern- We arrest criminals in the ethnic strife since the conflict in Mitrovica has struggled to func- ment-held part of Mitrovica are > page 6 morning and then they’re Kosovo ended in 1999. The river tion since independence in 2008, handled in the nearby town of “waving at us by the after- Ibar, which runs through the town when it became the scene of Vushtrri. noon,” an officer at south of 120,000 people, has become a de- pitched battles between the UN But the small courthouse there Mitrovica’s police station told facto border between the two com- mission in Kosovo, UNMIK, and is struggling to cope with the NGO FOCUS Prishtina Insight. “It’s very frus- munities – Albanians to the north protesting Serbs. Dozens were workload and judicial officials Civil Rights trating.” and Serbs to the south. injured and one UNMIK officer admit they only deal with the most Local courts in the divided city Serbia retains strong influence was killed in the violence. serious crimes, such as corruption Program in Kosovo face a backlog of 3,000 cases and over the area north of the Ibar, Officials of the EU rule-of-law and smuggling. only the most serious are being home to about 100,000 Serbs, but mission, EULEX, held their first – Making the brought to trial. Those arrested for neither Belgrade nor Prishtina sessions in the courthouse in continues on page 2 Return Easier Announcement News > page 14 Subscribe to Prishtina Insight Kurti: ‘I’m Carrying on as Usual’

News: Firms Allege Cronyism is Undermining Kosovo Economy News: Kosovo’s New Highway – The Most Expensive in Region? To carry on receiving Prishtina Tensions Unnerve South Serbia Villagers on Kosovo Border News: Free copy February 12 - 25, 2010 Issue No. 33om www.prishtinainsight.com Free copy htinainsight.c .32 www.pris GUIDE 10 Issue No ebruary 11, 20 In Vetevendosje’s main office in cen- 9 - F E Kosovo’s Insight from the next edition, on March anuary 2 FEATUR J Ski Season Free copy Kosovo Becomes ‘Alternative’ .prishtinainsight.comFinally G ets off Home to Migrants Outdoor Sport Start Destination - Boge January 15 - 28, 2010 Issue No. 31 www to FlyingFEATURE ht’s and Asylum- htina Insig e 7 Pris e worst r Seekers > pag Top Ten After one of th f the Yea eview o , rtsR in 30 years tral Prishtina, BIRN’s Jeta ne Kosove sta 12, you will need to subscribe. For just 13 Destinations i season Brezovica's sk > page 7 d off. for 2010 as finally kicke h ers ARTE iaries look- nd snowboard With your d Skiers a ’s New empty for force last Tim Judah ing decidedly were out in months, joying the the next 12 weekend,en Book sight has gde b lu7e skies. Prishtina In fresh s>n opwa an > page 9 top ten tion on A FEATURE show interviewed its leader Albin its a euro, you can receive six months’ worth mpiled re inform t co inFor mo h ns for 2010 INSIDE PRISHTINents in Son’s Search For sig destinatio eather and ev GUIDE In the w a ,ranging The Ancient City of vers in ion t e reg isit Father Unco th lturalBrezonvica, v Kosovo’s Railways, rish must-see cu Ulpiana s r P r from et/snow. Albanian Mas

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Y M is supported by: C K 2 February 26 - March 11, 2010 news The Bishop, the Builder Criminals Walk and the Lobbying Firm Free in Kosovo’s The Serbian Orthodox Church in Kosovo has been rocked by allegations of corruption in recent weeks, leading to hardline Bihsop Artemije being suspended as leader of the Lawless North Eparchy in Kosovo, questions over how the church funded a lobbying campaign against from page 1 tions for smugglers, by both eth- Kosovo’s independence and splits within the church nic Albanians and Serbs, who Kapllan Baruti, president of use the lack of controls to bring the district court in Mitrovica, goods into Kosovo without pay- based in Vushtrri, said they had ing taxes, thereby depriving the an unwritten agreement with Kosovo government of a major By Lawrence Marzouk police that only the most serious source of revenue. cases would be sent for trial. Last year, custom officials he Serbian Interior “All other cases remain with working for EULEX returned to Ministry has launched an the police because we do not the border points and since then Tinvestigation into alleged have the capacity to deal with all trucks and private vehicles corruption involving close associ- all of them,” he told Prishtina entering Kosovo have been reg- ates of Bishop Artemije, the bish- Insight. istered. op of the Diocese of Raska and “Those worst affected in this But payment of duties on Prizren in Kosovo. situation are the innocent par- imported goods has not been On Tuesday, Serbia issued an ties in a case,” Baruti added, imposed, though EULEX main- international warrant for the “and those in the worst position tains that registering the vehi- arrest of Monk Simeon Vilovski, of all are those living in the cles entering and leaving Artemije’s right-hand man, on sus- northern part of Mitrovica.” Kosovo has helped decrease picion that he embezzled money The law-and-order situation smuggling. that was meant for reconstruction in the north of Kosovo deterio- In the first two months of of churches in Kosovo and feeding rated sharply after Kosovo 2010, police uncovered two Bishop Artemije has been suspended from leading the Orthodox Church in Kosovo the poor. declared independence in major smuggling crimes, one Belgrade police have also arrest- well as to spreading various other clearly improper action’. February 2008, with majority involving the illegal import of ed the director of the Rade Neimar misinformation regarding the As news broke on Saturday, Serb areas refusing to accept the 10,600 litres of motor oil and Building Center of the Diocese of current situation in the Diocese.” February 13, that Bishop authority of the government in another of 2,292 litres of cook- Raska and Prizren, Predrag James Jatras later released a Artemije had been suspended, Prishtina. ing oil. Suboticki, a close associate of the statement, emphasizing that while monks supporting the ousted cler- In protest against independ- Colonel Avdiu said that estab- dismissed Bishop Artemije. The working for Venables, and later ic gathered at Gracanica ence, 325 ethnic Serb policemen lishing trust between police in Rade Neimar company was Squires Sanders, the firms had Monastery. across Kosovo began a boycott of the north and south remained a engaged in reconstruction and received $600,000 in total, as the The supporters of Archbishop the Kosovo Police Service, KPS. challenge, although the situa- rebuilding of monasteries in church had been unable to pay Artemije tried to force their way In June 2009, however, 318 of tion was improving. Kosovo in the period from 2004 to more, but that work had continued into the monastery to protect him. them returned to work, some to “There was non-compliance 2009. on a voluntary basis, and only According to KiM radio, after areas north of the Ibar. from the Serb police in the The affair has also raised ques- expenses had been paid for. several failed attempts, around In 2009, the northern police north,” he said, referring to the tions about the hundreds of thou- He said Bishop Artemije’s sus- twenty monks, led by the monks stations registered an increase period after independence, “but sands of dollars used by the pension was a ‘concerted effort to of the Crna Reka Monastery, in reported incidents compared now there have been changes for church to pay for lobbying against destroy the man who, more than physically assaulted those at the to the previous year, which may the better”. Kosovo’s independence. anyone else, has become the sym- monastery who support the deci- reflect the fact that more police Avdiu said that since the Bishop Artemije agreed to a bol of Serbia’s resistance to ampu- sion of the Holy Synod to suspend were now back on duty. return to duty of ethnic Serb $100,000 a month contract with US tation and annihilation of Bishop Artemije. Police in northern Mitrovica police last July, officers in the lobbing firm Venables in 2006. The Serbia’s most important spiritual After the conflict, the group reported 23 per cent more inci- north had reported to the contract was later transferred to and national patrimony’. reportedly withdrew and broke dents compared to 2008. The regional station in the south and another firm, Squires Sanders, “I sincerely believe we helped into the monastery though a back neighbouring Serb-run munici- now “take orders and execute and signed off by Monk Vilovski. give Serbia a fighting chance, entrance. pality of Zvecan saw a rise of 28 actions jointly with other sta- The lobbying bill amounts to sev- which it is still her option to take The newly elected Serbian per cent. In Zubin Potok, there tions”. eral million dollars. advantage of or not,” he added. Patriarch Irinej has expressed his was a 7.74 per cent fall. But in Meanwhile, EULEX is trying The lobbying was led by James “With respect to the money, confidence that the church would each station, only about half the to clear up the backlog of court Jatras who, last week, launched there is a curious assumption find the best solution for overcom- reported crimes were solved. cases in Mitrovica that has piled an online petition against the sus- behind the accusation that mon- ing the problems in the Diocese, Colonel Jahe Avdiu, director up since independence. The mis- pension of Bishop Artemije. eys were ‘diverted’ to lobbying: where Atanasije is now the leader. of Mitrovica regional police, sion now has four judges, two The move was greeted angrily that while Serbia’s enemies “Bishop Artemije is a good and said officers had achieved a prosecutors, three legal officers by the Diocese of Raska and should take full advantage of all honest man, but he has let others number of successes in recent and three local legal advisors at Prizren, which covers Kosovo. In a the influence money can buy, do many things that have compro- months, including the arrest of the courthouse north of the Ibar. statement it said: “Since it is Serbs should rely solely on good- mised his position,” the head of four local officials from “EULEX is working on an apparent from available documen- hearted, voluntary,nonprofession- the Serbian Orthodox Church told Mitrovica charged with misus- agreement with Prishtina and tation that a part of the money for al efforts. Television Cacak. ing public money and three Belgrade to deal with all pend- ‘lobbying’ came from humanitari- “That assumption is a large part Howver, last Sunday, Bishop transport ministry officials ing cases at the Mitrovica an funds and the funds for the of why Serbia and Serbs ended up Artemije held liturgy at charged with taking bribes. District Court,” said Kristiina restoration of churches in the where they did in the propaganda Gracanica. “We’ve made many arrests in Herodes, the mission’s justice Diocese, Mr Jatras’ petition is wars of the 1990s. It is an assump- Vicar Bishop Teodosije said: “. the past two months alone,” he spokesperson. extremely hypocritical, to say the tion Vladika Artemije wisely “The clergy, monks and nuns in said. Herodes said that one suspect least, because the same man cost understood he had to reject if he Kosovo and Metohija must set an Smuggling remains a key law had been in police detention the Diocese and the hungry was to have any hope of saving example, and not be a stumbling enforcement issue in northern since 2007, as a result of the Serbian people in Kosovo and his flock.” block and a cause for distress and Kosovo because there is little accumulation of cases. Dealing Metohija hundreds of thousands Jatras added that, given that his therefore our responsibility is control of the borders between with the backlog was “a matter of dollars, regularly receiving firms had received the $100,000 fee even greater because of severe the Serb-controlled zone and of urgency and justice,” she payment for even the most bizarre for just the first six months and circumstances in which we live Serbia. added. costs of his lobbying. only expenses after that, the here. Following the declaration of She said EULEX hoped to find “This petition brings further investment represented good “National and spiritual unity is independence, Serb militants a solution whereby both ethnic confusion to the many honorable value for money. He also rejected our greatest task, and this can not burned down the border check- Serb and Albanian prosecutors, Orthodox Christians in the US ‘any suggestion that Vladika be achieved on the basis of some points. Control over customs judges and other legal staff who empathise with the struggles Artemije, Fr Simeon, or any of secular ideology nor some individ- collapsed, and it has yet to be would be able to work side by and sufferings of the Serbian peo- the monastics and laity associat- ual, but only in community, in restored fully. side in the Mitrovica Court as ple in Kosovo and Metohija, as ed with him would perform any liturgy, in the Church of Christ.” This has created ideal condi- well as in the jailhouse.

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Editor’s Word Flamur

By Lawrence Marzouk

here in the world would you find an international football match, Wpitting two national teams against each other, where all supporters cheered for every goal and waved each others flags as the ball hit the back of the net? The answer: Kosovo vs. Albania ‘B’ on independence day 2010. Yes, the sporting clash on February 17

Photo byPhoto FoNet was truly the most confusing football Kosovo Bus Crashes in Austria Leaving Six Dead: A bus from Kosovo collided with two trucks on an Austrian highway, killing six people match I have ever witnessed. and injuring 37 others. The incident occured on Sunday around midnight, Kosovo police reported. The bus, from a private company in I am well aware that football supporters Ferizaj, was traveling from Prizren, Kosovo, to Munich, Germany. tend to be a patriotic/nationalist bunch. In many countries this takes on the form of hooliganism and racism, although I am glad to say this was not the case at the match marking Kosovo’s second birthday. Kurti: ‘I’m Carrying on as Usual’ But, from the supporters’ chants to the half-time entertainment, this was very In Vetevendosje’s main office in central Prishtina, much more an event about Greater Albania than a celebration of Kosovo’s BIRN’s Jeta ne Kosove show interviewed its leader independence. Albin Kurti, currenrly ‘on-the-run’ from justice after he The game was a 3-2 thriller. Albania emerged victorious with a late winner, failed to attend a court hearing this week about his although Kosovo scored the pick of the involvement in a February 2007 protest, during which goals thanks to a superb half volley – but the non-sporting entertainment was cer- two of his activists were killed. tainly as interesting as the entertainment they had orders to do so? on the pitch. A: Well, it is just like that. Albanian flags hung and were waved at They used rubber bullets at a every corner of the ground, far outnum- By Jeta Xharra distance of 20 metres and hit bering Kosovo’s stared standard. And this the heads and chests of the pro- was not due to a surprisingly large testers while they were turnout from the away fans, but Kosovo Question: Albin, do you unarmed and stepping back- Albanians’ preference for the doubled- headed eagle.

know that the Police are wards. In this case, police had byPhoto FoNet looking for you? rubber bullets which were out Albin Kurti, leader of Vetevendosje, says his movement could take part in elections As the goals went in, the red-and-black Kurti: Yes, I’ve heard through of date by twelve years, and and blue-and-yellow flags were waved furi- reactivate that old arrest war- war and parallel structures. the media that they have been Hysni Hyseni lost his eye, Zenel ously – it seemed that it didn’t matter who rant, and based on it they held And now, EULEX, just as in my apartment in Dardania, Zeneli was injured very seri- won. It would, in all cases, be a victory for Glauk and Zgjim for five hours UNMIK, are restarting the trial and here, but haven’t entered ously, today, he still has the bul- Albanians. at the building of the municipal against me, and I don’t think because they didn’t have an let next to his heart, while The chants were very much focused on court in a room filled with that there can be a fair trial nor arrest warrant, thus, we haven’t Mustafe Nerjova has a plastic the quest for a Greater Albania, and the police officers. So, the court for me, neither for anyone else, met on the streets of Prishtina. part in his skull, and we known half-time entertainment was a plaintive didn’t just transform into a because the justice and prosecu- that Arben Xheladinin and Mon display, illustrating the pain of losing police station, but also, it tion system functions only to Q: Are you hiding, or what? Balaj have been killed that day, Chameria, the coastal area of Greece, looked like a prison, and only formulate the official prosecu- A: No, on contrary, I’m carry- and 80 others were injured. inhabited by Albanians. after five hours, when they tion documents. ing on with my usual activites. I couldn’t help but think that on the day were sure that everything was While EULEX first came as Q: The police didn’t find that Kosovo was marking its second birth- under control, they let them ‘political police’, they have Q: Why are the Police look- you yesterday, they found day,the emphasis was skewed. Surely this free. since become a ‘police of poli- ing for you? your colleagues. Do you was an occasion to celebrate a great tics’. And it is very strange that A: Well, the EULEX court has know why they got them? achievement for the Albanians of Kosovo, Q: What did they do to two years after independence, issued an arrest warrant, A: I think that they got Glauk rather than the chance to complain about them within those five EULEX Police is ruling the regarding the restart of the so he could not talk to the ancient lost lands and the dream of unity. hours? Were they just asking police of Kosovo, just as UNMIK trial against me, regarding the media after Tuesday’s trial. Admittedly, I understand that idea of questions about the over- ruled back then. demonstrations of February 10, From one side we had the ‘Kosovars’ is a contentious one, and the turned cars, about you, or 2007. spokeswomen of EULEX and on concept represents little if nothing to about the February 10? Q: In the last show of Jeta the other hand we had Glauk, many people who inhabit this land. A: They didn’t ask them any- ne Kosove, the US Q: Can you please, once who was reporting back to us But towards the end of the game, as thing at all, because their aim Ambassador Dell said that more, tell us what you are what was going on at that trial. Kosovo equalised and was pushing for a wasn’t to find out information, the current political parties being charged of ? Furthermore, we found out, late winner, the crowd did seem to change. their aim wasn’t an investiga- are not representing the citi- A: The first charge from the that at that trail only the The tide of support suddenly swung tion, but was isolation. zens values, thus he men- EULEX indictment is exactly spokeswomen testified because noticeably in favour of Kosovo – aside tioned that a new political the same as the UNMIK one, they had received an order from the shared ethnicity, geography and Q: 80 000 people are sup- party may emerge. After the ‘attempting to cause general about the overturned Jeeps, porting you and believe you interview many asked for the statehood were starting to play a part in danger’, while we know that on from August 25, 2009. An old are not guilty, so why don’t establishment of a new polit- this football match. that day, UNMIK Police caused arrest warrant was reactivated you go and deal with the ical party. We don’t know if This made me wonder whether, per- deadly danger. The second on the day the trial has going court? he referred to you or not, but haps, with time, being a ‘Kosovar’ will charge is for ‘obstruction of on. A: EULEX, just like UNMIK, we have seen Vetevendosje assume greater meaning, and the chants official persons to carry out haven’t taken any action active in political move- of football matches between Albania and their official duties’. In fact, I Q: How did they argue to against the Romanian police- ments, but not as a political Kosovo will not be about Chameria or tak- couldn’t have obstructed them reactivate the old arrest war- man. EULEX, just like UNMIK, party. Can we see it as such? ing Skopje, but about thrashing the other, in their official duties. I would rant on the overturned cars have obstructed the Human A: There are no ways to see brotherly side. have liked to have been able to on the day of the trial? Rights Advisory Panel having a Vetvendosje as a political party, Having said that, I can’t see anyone tak- do so, because they had permits A: In Kosovo, there is no session in the EULEX building, because we won’t become one. ing the sterilised Kosovo flag, or Flamur and orders to kill. democracy that would ensure claiming that they cannot offer We already have political pari- in Albanian, to heart. Both sides will that the ones giving order also security measures. EULEX, just ties, but our movement might probably have to make do with sharing, Y Q: Does this mean that you have to argue decisions. An like UNMIK, doesn’t look for participate in elections as a even if it continues to baffle the impartial M stopped them from killing order was issued to the munici- corrupt politicians or crimi- movement, because such a C more than two people, since pal court to order the police to observer. nals, Serbs activists from the thing is [legally] possible. K 4 February 26 - March 11, 2010 news

Kosovo Independence Anniversary Outside In Brings Mixed Emotions ‘Mind the There were fireworks and revelers on the streets on Wednesday – but two years on, the actual gains of statehood have left many people in Kosovo feeling shortchanged. Gegë’ long time, and we have our insti- tutions that function in the way By Lawrence Marzouk they function,” she told and Petrit Collaku Prishtina Insight. By Kreshnik Hoxha “But there are many reasons, more important than the ones I osovo marked the second mentioned, not to celebrate,” ven during the worst evening anniversary of its independ- she added. rush hour on the London ence on Wednesday. But K “Kosovo is still recognised by EUnderground you wouldn’t strug- while many people took to the only 65 countries, including five gle to spot the Albanian! Just look out streets to celebrate, the festivities EU members who do not recog- for the impatient and angry-looking could not mask the fact that the nise Kosovo, which makes individual, he or she will be there mov- newborn country has failed to meet Kosovo’s path to European inte- ing like a headless chicken. expectations. gration difficult. But what happens if you have hun- Corruption, a stunted economy, “The last [EU] progress report dreds of Albanians rushing around the and a growing sense that Kosovo is for Kosovo was very weak. It London Underground to get to Holborn? becoming isolated in a region that

Photo byPhoto Marzouk Lawrence showed that corruption in Well, I dare you to go and ask any is marching towards European Flags on sale on Mother Teresa Boulevard during independence day celebrations Underground member of staff about Union membership, are among the Kosovo has been very much on Wednesday, February 17. Bloody main concerns. tries, Canada, Australia and Kosovo is greater now than it the increase in the past last Independence! Bloody Foreigners! Some hope that during the third Japan. was on the day of the independ- year,” she continued. Allegedly, the Albanians caused real year of independence, Kosovo will While the streets were filled ence declaration,” he added. One major setback for Kosovo mayhem for Londoners while racing on begin to resolve key structural today with revelers waving Kuci said Kosovo had faced over the past year was the fail- the Tube to get to Bloomsbury Ballroom issues – lack of control over 15 per Albanian and Kosovo flags, in significant challenges in terms ure to gain inclusion in the EU’s for Kosovo’s much awaited independ- cent of the national territory, divi- the run-up to the anniversary, of the rule of law, in integrating visa liberalization scheme for ence party.If the underground staff did- sions inside the EU over its inde- Kosovo suffered a debilitating the whole of Kosovo’s territory the Balkan region. n’t think it would be racist they would pendence, no seat at the United series of strikes by public work- and in changing the country’s Three of Kosovo’s neigh- have even changed the world-famous Nations and an antagonistic rela- ers demanding higher wages. image internationally. bours, Macedonia, Montenegro ‘Mind the Gap’ announcement to ‘Mind tionship with Serbia. Frustration is widespread “Now I believe that Kosovo and Serbia, joined the White the Gegë’. Kosovo’s parliament unanimous- over an unemployment rate that has passed this transition phase Schengen list in December, But there was reason to be impatient ly endorsed a declaration of inde- hovers around 40 per cent. and is in the consolidation opening the doors of the EU to – we were about to be treated to an epic pendence on February 17, 2008. The While the economy grew by 4 phase of its development as a citizens of those countries. evening celebrating two years of inde- news was greeted with wild cele- per cent in 2009, Kosovo’s free and democratic country,”he Bosnia and Herzegovina and pendence. “This is the night when every brations in Kosovo, but also in Central Bank said this was continued. Albania are penciled in to follow Albanian in the UK should invite their Albania and in ethnic Albanian mainly down to higher public The question of integration this summer, which would leave mates, John and Amanda, and proudly parts of Macedonia. spending rather than growth in refers principally to the north- Kosovo isolated. tell them that this is our culture, these The unilateral move was, howev- the private sector. Foreign ern sliver of Kosovo, including The European Commission are our artists and this is what we can er, bitterly contested by Serbia, its investment in Kosovo actually the northern half of the town of has promised it will not leave do,” said Eki Rrahmani from the In My close ally Russia and by other coun- fell last year, for the second year Mitrovica, which has remained Kosovo by the wayside on visa Country Production. tries. in a row. under Serbian control. but has yet to open formal nego- The night commenced with the Thanks to their lobbying, only 65 The Deputy Prime Minister, Referring to the International tiations with Pristina. London-based Albanian band, The of the 192 countries represented at Hajredin Kuci, told Prishtina Civilian Office’s plans to bring Morina said failure to make Bloody Foreigners, who warmed up the the United Nations have recognised Insight that improving the econ- the north under the authority of progress on visa liberalisation atmosphere with their brilliant music. Kosovo, though the 65 include the omy and provision of welfare the government, Kuci said they was another reason not to cele- After their spicy performance, the audi- United States, 22 of the 27 EU coun- were challenges that the govern- had faced major opposition. brate because the Kosovo gov- ence was bombarded by the breathtak- ment accepted as priorities in “The [ICO] strategy will be ernment had “failed to work ing acts of Ilir Bajri, Visar Kuci and 2010. challenged by those people that with what it had”, referring to Crucially, Kosovo gained are against the rule of law, by the measures it could have Nesim Maxhuni from The Man Indicted membership of the IMF and those carrying out smuggling taken to meet EU technical stan- Band. Their thrilling tunes accompa- World Bank in 2009, enabling the and organised crime, and by cer- dards. nied the mellow songs of Shpat Deda. www.prishtinainsight.com country to access important tain elements in Belgrade.” In an interview with BIRN’s The night went on and so did the alco- international funds.But the The Deputy Prime Minister Life in Kosovo TV show, the US hol intoxication when suddenly Genc Publisher: longed-for seat at the UN has said the process of recognition ambassador, Christopher Dell, Salihu appeared on the stage, hypnotis- ing everyone with his piercingly sharp BIRN remained out of reach. To had been held up by the ICJ case said there were reasons to cele- secure a place, Kosovo needs the and by Serbia’s lobbying, but brate this week, and subjects to voice and absolutely schizophrenic gui- Balkan Investigative Reporting Network support of half the UN’s 192 promised a further push for regret, particularly problems tar. The relentless dancing of the audi- members. But after an initial recognition in 2010. with the rule of law. ence during Genc’s performance turned Mensa e Studenteve, first floor wave of recognitions following Meanwhile, Kosovo has been “We can look at a solid record to chants when Eda Zari made her 10000, Prishtina the declaration of independ- criticized by the EU this year for of accomplishments. appearance. Even the English audience Kosovo ence, the rate of recognitions its failure to tackle high-level Relationships with most of the started to pick up the chorus ‘vaj vaj vaj, gishtat me kajmak’ while the Albanians Phone: +381 (0) 38 24 33 58 has slowed to a trickle. corruption. More recently, the neighbours have improved and Many governments are wait- US ambassador complained that continue to improve every day. were singing their lungs out to Eda. Fax: +381 (0) 38 22 44 98 ing for the International Court “corruption, violence and abuse Institutions function, the parlia- It was an unforgettable night with a [email protected] of Justice, ICJ, to give an adviso- go without redress”. ment has passed laws and the vibrant venue that hosted all sorts of ry opinion on Serbia’s request The European Commission’s government has acted,” he said. people. From those that felt foreign in Editor-in-Chief: for a ruling on whether the dec- 2009 Progress Report for Kosovo “Unfortunately,and this is not their own country, to those few stingy Lawrence Marzouk laration of independence was noted failures to control how Kosovo’s fault, relationships Albanians who refused to pay £2 for the internationally legal. politicians and officials made with your biggest neighbour cloakroom and carried their coats like [email protected] Deputy Prime Minister Kuci and spent money. The report [Serbia] are not what they vegetables all night while raving it Editorial Team: maintained that Kosovo had added: “Due to a lack of clear should.” under the electronic waves of DJs Toton Ana Petruseva, Gordana Igric, made progress in the past two political will to fight corruption, Dell added that the higher and Faton. Jeta Xharra, Marcus Tanner, years, but admitted that much and to insufficient legislative turnout of minority Serbs to This article would fall short if it did- remains to be done, including and implementing measures, vote in the local elections in n’t acknowledge the sterling efforts of Petrit Collaku and Shengjyl Osmani tackling corruption. corruption is still widespread.” November was also an achieve- Eki Rrahmani and Jeton Kulinxha from “Kosovo has managed to form Kuci said that fighting cor- ment, holding out hope that the the IMCP for putting on such a cultural- Marketing, Sales & Distribution: the institutions foreseen by its ruption and improving the rule- Serb-controlled north may opt to ly diverse night with four different [email protected] constitution, and which a demo- of-law were also priorities for cooperate with Pristina. music genres in the heart of central cratic and modern country the government. The ambassador said he London. hoped that in a year’s time he Design & Layout: “Rrjeti” needs,” he said. However, Engjellushe Morina, Let’s hope that next time London “Over these two years, head of the local think-tank, would be talking about Kosovo’s Underground announce ‘Mind the Y Kosovo’s institutions have pre- IKS, sounded a skeptical note. inclusion in the UN and Gegë’, there will be more to celebrate Printing: Lindi Printing Center M served and developed relation- “The positive reasons for cele- renewed discussions between than a great night of music. Like mem- C Copyright © BIRN ships with international actors bration are that we are inde- Kosovo and Serbia on finding a bership of the UN. K [and] international support for pendent, for which we waited a way to live side-by-side. business February 26 - March 11, 2010 5

Tender for New Power Euro: A Force for Stability in Plant Closes Today he tender to build a new 500 megawatt power plant in the out- Kosovo, Despite Greek Woes Tskirts of Prishtina closes today. The Ministry of Energy and Mining Despite fears that Greece’s floundering economy could damage the Euro, banking experts say that Kosovo’s extended the tender deadline for the Kosova e Re facility until Friday, 26 adoption of the currency has served it well February, following requests from making products more expensive potential bidders. and, as a result, reducing con- A winner is expected to be announced sumer purchasing power. This in September this year and construc- By Lavdim Hamidi happened because prices were tion to start in 2011. generally rounded up to the near- The scheme faced a series of setbacks

est Euro. in Brief Business News last year as potential investors dropped osovo’s decision to adopt He said that the use of the out of the original tender to build a the Euro in 2002 has Euro will not have a negative 2,000 MW plant, which would have Kproved a wise move, impact on the economy, despite placed Kosovo as one of the region’s despite the higher prices that the problems elsewhere, adding that major energy exporters. strong currency has brought, Kosovo’s economy is very differ- The project has now been downsized experts have told Prishtina ent from Greece’s. to a 500 MW plant, possibly followed by Insight. Before the decision to intro- another facility of the same size. Fears that Greece would duce the Euro, the late former Kosovo sits on the world’s fifth largest default on repaying its huge Photo byPhoto www.sxc.hu President of Kosovo Ibrahim reserve of lignite, sometimes called debt, which now exceeds its GDP, Kosovo considered adopting its own currency before opting for the Euro in 2002 Rugova had suggested the idea of brown coal. pushed other members of the adopting its owned currency, the Eurozone to demand the country The unilateral adoption of the Before the Euro, Kosovo’s offi- Dardan. reigns in its public spending ear- European Union currency in cial currency between 1999 and According to Safet Gerxhaliu, lier this month. Kosovo has brought financial 2002 was German Marks (DM). vice president of the Kosovo But not before confidence in and economic stability,economic Banking expert Flamur Keqa Chamber of Commerce, such a the Euro had already been dent- experts told Prishtina Insight. agrees that the Euro has brought decision would have been fatal ed in the international markets. “For a small, open economy, financial and economic stability for Kosovo’s economy. He point- Experts, however, believe the adoption of the euro is con- to Kosovo. ed to the inflationary dangers fac- Kosovo, which unilaterally sidered a very important step,” “Had Kosovo not adopted the ing other countries such as adopted the Euro and is not part said Gani Gerguri, Vice Euro in 2002, you can be sure that Serbia and Albania as proof. of the Eurozone, will not be Governor of Kosovo’s Central the economic situation in our As Kosovo is not part of the impacted by the crisis. Bank. country would be more dramatic Eurozone, its central bank can- A weaker Euro could even The problem of ensuring mon- and more complicated,” he said. not issue notes and does not have play to Kosovo’s advantage, by etary stability is a serious one Management of economic- control of its monetary policy. making its products more com- that has challenged and contin- financial activities and public However the central bank of petitive outside of the Eurozone, ues to challenge many countries finances is significantly facilitat- Kosovo can issue money to although this would only happen in the region and beyond, and ed with the Euro, and its use ensure that enough is circulat- if other currencies did not take a Kosovo, he says, has minimised avoids the risk of hyperinflation, ing, including to replace dam- Easyjet Launches Kosovo tumble. this issue by bringing in such a as well as the risk of possible aged notes. Research by Kosovo’s central strong currency. losses from exchange rate fluctu- According to Gerguri, in 2009 Routes bank in 2006 however suggested “Having the Euro contributes ations, he added. around 24 million euro of new ow-cost airline Easyjet has begun that the country’s export market to monetary stability and overall Keqa, however, admits that the notes were brought into the coun- to accept bookings for flights con- was too small to benefit substan- macroeconomic stability,” said use of the euro initially had a try,while in 2008 the figure was 16 necting Prishtina with Geneva tially from a weaker currency. L Gerguri. negative impact on Kosovo by million euro. and EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse- Freiburg. The Geneva–Pristina flights will start on June 19 and will initially operate Mayor Objects to Brezovica twice weekly on Wednesdays and Saturdays while the EuroAirport route will start on 26 June and operate on Thursdays and Saturdays. Privatisation Plans Both airports provide good connec- tions to other destinations in Europe. Facilities at Kosovo’s biggest ski centre, Brezovica, have been included in the latest privatisation round, but the Flights are available for as little as 30 move is facing opposition from the new mayor of Strpce, Bratislav Nikolic, who objects to not being consulted euro, one way. Kosovo. For more information visit Strpce is a town located near easyjet.com Kosovo’s border with Ikea Considers Serbia By Petrit Collaku Macedonia; its population is 70 per cent Serb. Store in 2011 Despite other disagreements, Serbs and ethnic Albanians alike erbian Deputy Prime Minister he Privatisation Agency of enjoy skiing in Brezovica. Bozidar Djelic said that the Kosovo, PAK, has included “This privatisation is foreseen SSwedish furniture giant Ikea Tthree facilities around the as part of Kosovo’s privatisation could open its first shopping centre in Brezovica ski centre in its 42nd law,” Kaloshi said. Belgrade next year. privatisation cycle. He claimed that PAK was According to Beta news agency,Djelic But the municipality of Strpce working closely with the said, after talks in Belgrade on Monday told Prishtina Insight that it is European Commission Liaison with Swedish Minister for Trade, Ewa against the privatisation, claim- Office in Kosovo, the municipali- Photo byPhoto Insight Prishtina for Rrahmani Petrit Bjorling, that Ikea’s investment project ing that PAK has not discussed The ski resort in Brezovica has great potential but the infrastructure is poor ty of Strpce, and the manage- in Serbia is going in the right direction. the move with town officials. ment of the Brezovica ski centre government has also reacted It claims to have the support of “Serbia’s government and the city of A restaurant, a small log cabin to create a master plan for the against the planned privatisa- the ski centre management and Belgrade will do everything for Ikea to and the café in the town of privatisation of two hotels in tion in Brezovica. of the community for its plan to open its first Balkan shopping centre in Strpce are all part of the coming Brezovica. Elections held in November privatise the Brezovica facilities. Belgrade and then in other cities in privatisation wave which has “The management and the last year saw a Serb mayor elect- “The privatisation of Serbia,” Djelic said. raised the ire of the mayor of community there are more and ed to the municipality for the Brezovica is in the interests of After Ikea representatives in Serbia Strpce and other town officials. more supportive of the privatisa- first time under Prishtina’s insti- the residents of the area, the sent a letter last October to the govern- “We are against the privatisa- tion of Brezovica,” Kaloshi said. tutions. management and Kosovo,” said ment requesting to purchase land, tion in Strpce because no one “They see it as the only solution It was hoped that this would Yll Kaloshi, a spokesperson from Spokesperson of the Serbian Agency for called us for discussions,” Mayor for the development of tourism.” ease the ethnic and political dis- the Privatisation Agency of Foreign Investments Aleksandar Bratislav Nikolic said. Brezovica’s ski centre covers agreements which had blocked Kosovo. Miloradovic said that the Serbian gov- Nikolic claimed that he found approximately 230 hectares and previous privatisation bids. Brezovica has been with- ernment will announce a tender for the out about the privatisation wave is seen as one of the most prom- Y PAK says that it does not plan drawn from the privatisation sale of 70 hectares of land, allowing the only when PAK sent town offi- ising ski destinations in the to withdraw any buildings or process twice already due to dis- Swedish company to build its first store M cials a document explaining Balkans with the right infra- companies from this wave. putes over who owns it, Serbia or in Serbia. C what would be sold. The Serbian structure. K 6 February 26 - March 11, 2010 city ‘Collective Roland Punishment’ for Gjoni Senior Legal and Policy Advisor for USAID’s Kosovo Energy Effective Municipalities ini- Customers tiative

as the ‘New Neighbourhood’ of Prishtina. tomers, but that there would be of: the Eyes through Prishtina was left without electricity for Astrit Kuqi, from Peja, said only paying customers and non- one week, leading to protests that he had been without energy paying customers. By Besiana Xharra from residents. for five hours a day during The Pristina based NGO Fol “Why has KEK disconnected February, on average. recently assessed this statement me when I pay my bills regular- He told Prishtina Insight: as ‘false’ in its report on the espite claims that ly?” asked Selvije Gashi, a resi- “For a long time we didn’t have veracity of government state- Kosovo’s Energy dent of the affected neighbour- problems with the electricity, ments, called ‘Truth Metre’. DCorporation, KEK, would hood. “It is not fair – I should but in February, KEK started to KEK officials justified the col- not disconnect whole villages or not live without electricity disconnect us collectively.” lective cuts, saying that this neighbourhoods for unpaid because my neighbour doesn’t In the past two weeks, KEK method was only used when the bills, the practice is back. pay.” teams have also switched off majority of customers had not Whole villages and parts of Electricity was restored to the electricity to the villages of paid electricity. “Individual dis- some towns have had their elec- area following an agreement Shushice, Studenice, Vrellem, connections are more common, tricity cut off in recent weeks with KEK but residents remain Dubrave and in some neighbor- but in cases when in one zone leaving some paying customers angry at what they see as ‘collec- hood in Istog. most consumers have debt, then Roland Gjoni of KEK without energy. tive punishment’. The return to collective cuts we need to disconnect them col- The practice has reemerged Other areas of Kosovo have comes after Prime Minister lectively,” said Viktor Buzhala, despite promises from KEK that also been affected, including the Hashim Thaci said that neigh- spokesperson for KEK. What surprised you most it would target individuals who city centre of Peja, where elec- bourhoods would no longer He added that up to 30,000 about Prishtina? have not paid their bills. tricity has been off for hours at receive electricity based on the individual disconnections are In Vushtrri, the area known a time during the day, and parts proportion of paying cus- carried out each month. How big and beautiful it looks at night and how gloomy and small during the day.

What’s your favourite hang- London Cabs Cause Road Rage out? The arrival of ‘Black Cabs’ from Britain’s capital on the streets of Prishtina has led established It depends on the season, day of taxi drivers to call foul the week and the friends I am “My cars are one hundred per cent with. Summer time! produced in England, plus my vehi- Do you do anything cultural? cles are adapted for people with dis- By Besiana Xharra Not much. I try to find out about abilities, so that we meet all the con- live music bars and I have seen ditions that municipality asks for.“ some museums, but I don’t have so much time. ondon’s trademark taxis have begun to of its fleet because of a lack of parking, ply their trade in Prishtina – to the while London Taxi had been awarded per- What is the most annoying Ldelight of some passengers and dis- mits without any problem. thing about Prishtina? may of established cabbies. Mr Berisha told Prishtina Insight that it Luan Berisha launched his London Taxi was his time spent living in London and Narrow streets and the lack of service earlier this month with 15 left-hand using the famous cabs which inspired him green spaces and pedestrian areas. drive black cabs, but other taxi drivers com- to bring 15 back to Prishtina. plain that the firm should not have received He dismissed allegations of political con- If you were mayor of a licence to operate the vehicles. nections as ‘pointless rumours’, saying that Prishtina for the day what Rumours have been swirling around if his firm was connected to the President’s would you change? Prishtina that the real owner of the compa- son, he would not hide it. ny is the son of President Fatmir Sejdiu, “There is no law in Kosovo that denies the Assign designated parking Bardhyl Sejdiu, and that political connec- right to any politician’s son to open a private areas, as during week days tions helped secure the licences by allowing business, so I do not want to deal with these Prishtina looks like a big parking the firm to leapfrog competitors. pointless rumors,” he said. lot or car market. Strenuous denials by Mr Berisha have not “My cars are one hundred per cent pro- softened the position of other taxi firms. duced in England, plus my vehicles are How many macchiatos do you Gezim Babiqi, the owner of Radio Taxi adapted for people with disabilities, so that drink a day? Roberti, told Prishtina Insight: “We all know we meet all the conditions that municipality that this company is registered under the asks for,” said Berisha. Big or small? Usually 2 big and 2 president’s son’s name, and that is why the Muhamet Gashi, Prishtina municipality small. municipality has given permission so quick- spokesman, said that the municipality gave ly to this company, while other taxi compa- permits to London Taxi after the firm met What’s the tastiest Kosovar Photo byPhoto www.sxc.hu nies who have worked here for ten years all conditions. food? aren’t allowed to expand their service.” “London Taxi received permission to He added that while he does not fear the work after the commission completed Sarma at Tiffany or grilled “There is no law in Kosovo competition, he feels it is wrong for a firm to assessments and, according to this commis- mushrooms at Ron. be given preferential treatment. sion, this company has met all the condi- that denies the right to any “We have no parking spaces for our cars, tions. What landmark do you use to and then there are many of the other taxies “The municipality has also permitted the tell taxi drivers where you live? politician’s son to open a pri- who work illegally and nobody controls expansion of several other companies them,” he added. “So the municipality first depending on the requirements, so it is not ‘Shpia e Pleqve’ or the second vate business, so I do not should regulate these issues, and then let as Babiqi says,” Gashi added. curve after the third turn on the Y want to deal with these other companies operate.” Gashi said that the President’s son did not right hand side junction of the M He said that his company, like many oth- feature in the official documents of this Germia street near Qebaptore C pointless rumors,” ers, had not been allowed to increase the size company. AMA. K Feature February 26 - March 11, 2010 7

Kosovo’s Lead Camps to Curtain Yet to Rise be Closed he European Commission and Kosovo’s government have Tlaunched a 5 million euro proj- ect to close the lead-contaminated Cesmin Lug and Osterode refugee on Stand-up in Kosovo in Brief News camps for Roma ‘as soon as possible’. The camps were set up by UNHCR While live comedy and scathing political satire are mainstream in the West, in Kosovo it’s proving more diffi- in 1999 as a temporary measure when the Roma Mahalla, on the cult to tempt comedians onto the stage. southern shore of the Ibar River, was burnt down by ethnic Albanians at said. the end of the conflict in Kosovo. Scriptwriting was a chal- Despite repeated calls to close the lenge for local comedians, camps and numerous investigations who often did not hit the right into the toxic, lead-contaminated By Petrit Collaku note. “They should be looking at everyday problems that environment, around 600 Roma still everyone can relate to,” he live there. umour is a part of life said. “You have to make the The 30-month project will be in Kosovo. But telling audience imagine themselves implemented by Mercy Corps and Hjokes has usually been in such situations.” Kosovo Agency for Assistance and a private pastime rather than Kosovo’s television fare in Development (KAAD). taking the form of stand-up comedy terms is mostly of The Council of Europe’s commis- comedy of the kind now the canned laughter, sit-com sioner for human rights, Thomas omnipresent on stage and tel- variety, in particular Familja Hammarberg, earlier this month evision in the West. Moderne, [Modern Family[, called for the camps to be closed and Until recently, that is. Now or Kafeneja Jone, [Our Cafe.] forced returns to Kosovo to be the owners of the sports bar The few stand-up comedi- stopped. Filikaqa, located in ans who have appeared on tel- Prishtina’s Pejton district, evision or who have posted Kosovo PM Visits are trying to break the mould sketches on the internet were Vandalised Serb by tempting would-be stand- hesitant to talk to Prishtina up comics onto the stage. Insight, saying they didn’t Cemetery So far just one comedian, want to criticise their peers Dardan Islami, has taken up or discuss the lack of politi- osovo Prime Minister Hashim the gauntlet. The bar’s co- cal satire in Kosovo. Thaci visited the desecrated owner, Kreshnik Berisha, One comedian who did Kgrave of a Serb woman in admits it’s proving difficult to agree to talk to us was Halim Gjilan on Sunday. convince people to joke in Berisha, known for mocking The destruction of Zivka front of a live audience. Kosovo’s leaders on the satiri- Jovanovic’s grave last week has been But Berisha remains cal TV show, Lamje. condemned by Kosovo’s prime minis- adamant that stand-up come- Halim Berisha said he ter and the head of the International dy will eventually take off in wanted to take part in helping Civilian Office, Pieter Feith. Kosovo. “Dardan Islami per- stand-up develop in Kosovo, Both called for a speedy investiga- formed a few weeks ago, and but feared not everyone in the tion into the crime and the perpetra- people enjoyed it,” he said. audience would appreciate tors to be brought to justice. “We saw people having a good his humour. Kosovo’s problems in order to because the US helped us so time.” “I have two characters that gain the approval of his much.” EU’s Ashton: Kosovo In a sign of the growing I have developed so far, Kosovar father-in-law Johnson described live interest in stand-up in Kosovo’s President and Prime “People have to be able to comedy as an art form that Belongs in Europe Kosovo, Islami’s show became Minister – but it’s not safe yet laugh at the ironies and hard- requires qualities of spon- a Youtube hit, attracting in Kosovo to mock the politi- ship they live with,” Johnson taneity and bravery. “You he European Union’s foreign thousands of viewers within cians live,” Berisha said. told Prishtina Insight. He have to make the audience policy chief, Catherine days. Casey Cooper Johnson, who said the dearth of political laugh right in front of you, TAshton, met Kosovo Prime After Islami’s successful had his own satirical spot on humour was possibly related and if they don’t laugh, you Minister Hashim Thaci last Friday start, Filikaqa is planning to BIRN’s Life in Kosovo show, to the fact that mocking satire are just standing there watch- and reiterated that the Western invite new comedians and as “Dhandrri i Kosoves” “was previously considered a ing yourself look stupid,” he Balkans is a top priority for the EU. hold regular stand-up nights. [Kosovo’s Son-in-Law], said threat to the [national] said. “We know that Kosovo wants to Berisha, who has worked as he had been shielded from cause”. “But if some funny people move forward in relation with visa a comedy scriptwriter, said criticism because of his Johnson added: “I might start getting up on the stage, liberalisation and during the next all the arts were struggling in American nationality. have had an easier time doing like Dardan did, and braving few weeks a team will come here to Kosovo. “Stand-up is a new His character, Dhandrri, is it because I was American, so a live audience, it might catch visit in order to evaluate the situa- thing for Kosovo and I know it a US immigrant to Kosovo there was this sense like, “Oh, on,” he added. “I could never tion,” Ashton said. is going to be difficult,” he who tries to solve all of let Dhandrri do his thing, do it.” She added that it was “important to contribute together to the econom- ic development of Kosovo in order to “People have to be able make it possible for people to reach to laugh at the ironies EU standards.” and hardship they live Elections in Istog and with,” Johnson told Gjilan Prishtina Insight. He said the dearth of politi- he mayoral run-off in Gjilan is to be rerun after the Supreme cal humour was possi- TCourt approved the recom- bly related to the fact mendation of the Election Complains and Appeals Commission that mocking satire to hold the election again due to sus- “was previously consid- pected fraud. The Central Election Commission ered a threat to the then approved the rerun, having ini- [national] cause”. tially called for a recount of the votes in Gjilan. Reruns have already been held in Prizren and Lipjan. The election will be held on March 14 between PDK and LDK mayoral candidates. Y A new poll will also be held in M Istog on April 4, after the LDK mayor C died. K 8 February 26 - March 11, 2010 Guide Try Prishtina’s Museums

Prishtina may not have a Guggenheim or a Louvre, on a Grey Day but its museums offer an intriguing look into Kosovo’s past and future

The Independence Museum - House of Kosovo Dr Ibrahim Rugova

stablished on December 12, of the Democratic League of and the first Constitution of 2007, on the 63rd Birthday of Kosovo, LDK, because many of the Kosovo was drafted and ratified in Ethe first President of meetings and dialogues of the in 1991. Kosovo, Dr Ibrahim Rugova, the intellectual elite of Kosovo had The building was badly dam- Independence Museum House pro- been held in this historical house. aged in 1999, so many of the arti- vides a great insight into the Supported by the Ministry of facts are not original, but they do efforts and political movements of Culture and the Museum of give a sense of the important work the people of Kosovo for peace, Kosovo, Rugova’s proposal of 2002 that was carried out in this small democracy and independence. that the house should be trans- house. In this small house you will find formed into a museum was personal belongings of Ibrahim realised five years later, and unfor- The Independence Museum- Rugova as well as key documents tunately one year after his death. House of Kosovo Dr. Ibrahim in Kosovo’s path towards inde- Although small in size, the Rugova pendence. house has attracted many national Fehmi Agani Street (next to The inauguration of the intellectuals and international Tiffany Restaurant) Independence Museum was timed diplomats. Working Hours: Monday to to coincide with the thirteenth It was in the building that the Friday 10am to 5pm anniversary of the establishment first declaration of independence Entrance is free

Stacion - Centre for Contemporary Art Prishtina stablished in 2006 by artist advanced architectural research, Heta and Vala Osmani, and are in Albert Heta and architect stands for intellectual independ- the process of finalising the publi- EVala Osmani, Stacion, ence and works to create condi- cation of the long-term project Center for Contemporary Art tions where contemporary Politics of Contemporary Art. Prishtina, is today a meeting point thought and practice can happen. The most recent event was the of artists, architects, thinkers, They also work alongside a num- first solo exhibition in Kosovo of critics and other socio-political ber of institutions across Europe, Petrit Halilaj, who explores the workers committed to reflecting including the European Institute nature of travel and reality and responding to the relevant for Progressive Cultural Policies through his photography. challenges of contemporary socie- in Vienna and the Tirana Institute Check the Stacion Facebook site ty with an active and critical of Contemporary Art. or website for details of the latest approach. They are currently engaged in exhibition. Stacion is the only venue in the promotion of the publication Kosovo with an exhibition pro- ‘The way between Prishtina and Stacion - Center for gramme focused on contemporary Belgrade has 28000 un-proper Contemporary Art Prishtina art and architecture. It also build objects. So, never it will be Rr. Zija Prishtina p.n. encourages artistic practice and an autobahn!’, edited by Albert www.stacion.org

The Ethnological Museum s Prishtina is bombarded to sustain a growing family, eth- museum compound are meant by waves of urban plan- nologist Valon Shkodra told to illustrate the four cycles of A ning and fresh slabs of Prishtina Insight. life – birth, life, death and concrete, an oasis can be found The story of traditional intangible heritage, through the even amid the grumbling of Kosovar life begins when you perspective of a traditional construction vehicles. enter the family home. Kosovar family. Tucked behind post-war The first room is a large work- The illustration continues apartments and homes, the eth- ing area with a stone sink and throughout the other two 19th- nological museum tries to fireplace surrounding the eat- century homes, through the recapture Kosovar life between ing area called the “sofra”, a means of traditional furnish- the 15th and 20th centuries, detail included in all Kosovar ings, folk wear, artifacts and almost a mythical era compared homes at this time. jewelry. to life in Prishtina in the 21st Every element of the home Century. has its own story, from the Prishtina’s Ethnological The museum compound is weird cut-out holes around the Museum located down a street opposite fireplace used as central heat- Open Monday to Saturday Prishtina’s Sami Frasheri High ing to the small-sized, goat-fur from 10:00 to 17:00. School. covered doors, which force any The entrance fee is one euro The compound is home to four visitor to bend forward while for adults. houses built between the 18th walking through. For more information call 038 and 19th centuries, homes built The four buildings of the 211-394 Other Museums:

osovo Museum: Housed in is also the symbol of Prishtina. is still plenty to keep visitors busy Orthodox church, just off Agim Ministry of Culture Art one of Prishtina’s grandest You’ll also find other archaeolo- for a few hours. Ramadani Street. Gallery: See page 9 for the cur- Kbuildings, it is the city’s, gy artifacts dating back to Illyrian, Open Tuesday to Saturday from It hosts regular exhibitions of rent exhibition of modern art. and the country’s best known Dardanian and Roman times. 10am to 6pm contemporary art and photogra- Finding out what’s happening Y museum. Its piece de resistance is Many of the museum’s pieces phy. there can be difficult, so it’s M a small terracotta statuette which were taken to Belgrade in 1999 and Kosova Art Gallery: This gallery Visit www.kosovaart.com for worth poking your nose in if near C is believed to be 6,000 years old and have not been returned, but there is situated next to the unfinished more information the Qafa building. K 9 Arte February 26 - March 11, 2010

White Wedding, an exhibition Artists Take Kosovo’s exploring Kosovo’s fears of exclusion from Europe, aims Isolation Worries to to alert the public and the bureaucrats in Brussels to EU’s Heart their concerns.

he explained. “Kosovo – The Young artists. “We believe the concept will Europeans”. It didn’t take long Arta Agani, an artist working By Shengjyl Osmani draw attention to our cultural for local wits to modify the at Kosovo’s Gallery of Arts, hopes and intellectual concern about refrain to “Kosovo – The Isolated her film, which looks at the the exclusion of Kosovo from the Europeans.” “right” to free movement, will hat do a photograph of visa liberalization process,” Balaj Some argue that the obstacles cause discussion. “I think my an almost naked man continued. delaying the entry of Kosovo, contribution may have a posi- Wtied up in ropes, a “It is disturbing, when our Bosnia and Albania to the tive influence, increasing Schengen visa form and a framed neighbours have already over- Schengen list – and Turkey’s slow awareness of the visa lib- picture of the European Union come this issue. As an artistic progress towards EU member- eralization process,” she stars have in common? All are community, we are concerned ship – reflect Christian Europe’s said. works of Kosovo artists, express- that the unlimited freedom of prejudice against Muslim coun- Majlinda Kelmendi, a ing frustration at the EU’s deci- movement of people from the tries. graduate from the sion to exclude their country region is being conducted in a For its part, Brussels cites Academy of Arts in from the Balkan visa liberaliza- selective manner.” Kosovo’s failure to meet the tech- Tirana and professor tion process. The idea that Kosovo is becom- nical requirements for inclusion of arts in Prishtina, The issue is tackled head-on in ing increasingly isolated in as well as its unsettled status in has contributed a new exhibition called White Europe has become a theme of the eyes of five EU countries that works through Wedding, which is soon to close café chatter since Brussels have not recognised its independ- which she express- in Prishtina and move to announced last summer that citi- ence. es her view of the sit- Brussels. Artist and exhibition zens of Serbia, Macedonia and The exhibition, closing this uation in the region. organiser Artan Balaj said the Montenegro would no longer Saturday evening, opened on Her work includes works aimed to explain the con- need visas to enter the EU’s visa- February 17, the second anniver- a photograph of man cerns of the artistic community free Schengen zone. sary of Kosovo’s independence, at wearing just a tie, in Kosovo. The decision became active in the Gallery of the Ministry of shirt collar and hat, The exhibition by six artists, December, while Bosnia and Culture in the Qafa building in tied to a chair with Arta Agani, Artan Balaj, Arzana Albania, two of the three exclud- Prishtina. It has been supported rope. The picture is about Kraja, Dafina Hajra, Lorik ed countries, expect to be includ- by the interior ministry and the being “ghetto-ised and limited Sylejmani, and Majlinda ed this year. ministry of culture. by bureaucracy from moving as a Kelmendi, is called White But for the third excluded coun- “White Wedding” opens in free being in the world”, she said. Wedding in reference to the try, Kosovo, the dream of joining Brussels on May 9, which is, Kelmendi hopes the exhibition White Schengen list. the Schengen White list remains pointedly, Europe Day. in Brussels will draw the same “A wedding centres on the idea distant, even if discussions The artists hope their works level of interest and prompt the of living in a harmonious com- between Brussels and Prishtina will be seen by, and influence, same feedback that it has done munity,” Balaj said. “In our case, have begun. diplomats and NGOs as well as in Prishtina. Kosovo has been cut off from As part of Saatchi and officials of EU institutions in “Artists cannot solve all these such a ‘wedding’ through its non- Saatchi’s 6-million-euro cam- Brussels, such as the European problems, or the politics, but inclusion in the White Schengen paign to rebrand Kosovo, posters Parliament and the European through different forms of list.” The exhibition is being of beautiful young Kosovars were Commission. Another broad aim expression they can influence Y taken to Brussels because this is plastered across Prishtina last of the exhibition is to showcase awareness [of the problems],” she M where “the wedding takes place,” autumn with the headline the cultural potential of Kosovo’s said. C K 10 February 26 - March 11, 2010 Food & Drink We recommend We Ciao

inner time is usually a lively affair at this Serbian eatery,with Dtraditional music, rakija drink- ing and superb food served in gargantu- an proportions. To get to Ciao from Prishtina take the Skopje road out of town. At the first roundabout take the single-lane road on the left-hand-side of the highway head- ing towards Skopje and then the next left. Ciao is around 500 metres from the roundabout.

Ciao Caglavica +381 63 88 100 98 Paying Lip Service

Lips Caffe is the latest eatery to open along busy Qamil Hoxha Street, but certainly not the best

Additionally, the presentation was poor: no Balance garnish, just a medium-sized porcelain plate with the mushrooms. alance is best described as a wild- By Maneater My next appetizer was more attractively card – well known dishes, but plated on a rustic wooden platter. Bwith the possibility of serving up The tomato bruschetta mix was generous- a surprise. ips Caffe faces some fierce competition ly spread on toasted French bread but the This venue offers a new take on some from its well-established neighbours, flavour was ever so overpowering due to the worn-out dining options that have LPishat and Te Komiteti to name but acidity of the tomatoes and a overgenerous become too repetitive in this city. two, but its large floor-to-ceiling front win- lug of oil. dows draw onlookers to a fairly well designed The culinary disappointment unfortunate- Balance area, and its alluring name signals a modern ly carried on with the main course. Rr. Perandori Dioklecian, Prishtina setting. Again, the shortcomings were copious, 044 455 005 The interior is well-defined, with a neutral beginning with the overcooked spaghetti that backdrop of colour, complemented by more can only be described as mushy, breaking a distinctive elements such as brick accented cardinal rule of Italian cuisine. walls, beamed ceiling and novel chrome light While the chopped tomatoes were fresh, fixtures. Dark wood furniture and colourful they were the only complement to pasta. Not upholstered seating add character, and an even staples such as virgin olive oil, garlic or overall comfort to the space. fresh pepper were incorporated into the dish. However, there is nothing distinctive about While defiantly deciding to skip dessert, the menu, which ranges from salads, starters my waiter noticed my dissatisfaction with and main courses – everything has been done my meal. Although he offered to correct my The interior is well-defined, before. order, I quickly declined, deeming the short- Mezze and caprese salad, prociutto and comings too extensive for any sort of with a neutral backdrop of chicken mix sandwiches, carbonara and improvement. colour, complemented by Bolognese pastas, pizza and grill chicken are Unexpectedly, I was the only guest that more distinctive elements all tired options that countless Prishtina opted for dinner that evening. Perhaps the restaurants have been dishing out for years. others knew something I didn’t upon order- Filikaqa such as brick accented I decided to go with bruschetta and fried ing, or were just lucky enough to be fended walls, beamed ceiling and mushrooms for starters and spaghetti off by an uninviting menu. his sports bar doesn’t play with pomodoro with fresh tomatoes as a main. I’ve since heard that the coffee is excellent novel chrome light fixtures. small portions or mediocre-reso- Again, the menu was quite disappointing, and served with warm, delicious cakes. Tlution television. The only thing Dark wood furniture and and I hoped my order wouldn’t be the same. With this in mind, stick to enjoying the that is small in terms of quantity at this colourful upholstered seat- The fried mushrooms came close to a culi- décor while sipping a macchiato, rather then spot is the price tag, and we’re all better nary disaster. Half of the mushrooms were delving into a three course meal. off for it. ing add character, and an withered up to a burnt crisp, while the rest If you’re looking for a fastfood hit of overall comfort to the space. were clearly seasoned with absolutely noth- Lips Caffe burgers, pizzas or chicken wings, this is ing other than frying pan oil, which wasn’t Qamil Hoxha Street the place to come. even a more flavoursome pick, such as olive. Rating: 1 star Y Rr. Mujo Ulqinaku BL 4/1, Pejton, M Prishtina C www.filikaqa.com Graze on my lips Lick your lips Hot lips Sealed lips Lip service Liposuction K 038 244 288 By Shega A’Mula 11 in Prishtina Inside Prishtina February 26 - March 11, 2010

Building Review: Life Returns to St Nicholas Church, Prishtina

rishtina’s St Nicholas future founded on cultural coopera- restoration in 2009 because “those ers most of the walls, and all icons structures located in the enclosed Church is not as easily spot- tion. that burned it had no right to and religious symbols are visibly grounds, also had to be replaced Pted as the city’s many lofty On Saturday, St Nicholas Church rebuild it”. new. and only rang for the first time minarets, but continues to survive, held its first liturgy since March To Nojkic’s and many other Floors are covered in new mar- since March 2004 in November despite its discrete location and the 2004, following the completion of Kosovo Serb’s joy, the appointment ble tiles, and wooden railings lead- 2009, after reconstruction was com- substantial fall in the city’s repairs at the end of last year, of Bishop Atanasije as Orthodox ing to the second level are seeming- pleted. Orthodox population. which were carried out by an eth- church leader of Kosovo earlier ly recent instalations. The second structure in the Located in the Tauk Baqe neigh- nic Albanian team of contractors. this month led to a change in posi- However, Nojkic says that the grounds is the parish home, located bourhood, the top of the bell tower However, Albanian contribu- tion and immediate consent to church’s initial construction can near the entrance to the church, is the only element visible from tions to restoring the church were begin liturgy at St Nicholas. be traced back to the 17th Century. which is occupied by Nojkic in the busy Nazim Gafurri Street, which not welcomed by everyone in the This decision makes St Nicholas The church was heralded for its evenings. leads to Germia Park. Orthodox community, Ranjil the only functioning Orthodox wooden icons, made by painters Other tasks at hand at St Although subject to incredible Nojkic, keeper of the church, told Church in the city, as Christ the from the city of Debar, current-day Nicholas Church include the damage during the March riots Prishtina Insight. According to Saviour, located beside the national Macedonia, in the 18th Century, appointment of a parish priest in that swept Kosovo in 2004, the cen- Nojkic, St Nicholas was initially library, remains unfinished. elaborate wall frescos completed in order to hold weekly liturgies for turies old church has a completely not given Diocese permission to On Saturday, Bishop Atanasije the 18th Century, and a very rare Prishtina and the surrounding peaceful track-record, and now a hold church liturgies after its and other clergymen from the silver cross brought to the Church area. region held liturgy at the Church to from Belgrade in the 19th century. Nojkic said the decision would be mark the feast of St Theodore, and March rioters set fire to the made soon, and that Kosovo Serbs were joined by around 250 Kosovo church in 2004, damaging all of its were eager to begin services at the Serbs. International representa- distinct pieces. The only reminders church. tives from the Greek, US and UK of its history are the remaining The renovation of St Nicholas offices in Prishtina attended the sections of hand-painted frescos Church was funded by the service, which was also followed by that, when analysed closely, illus- European Commission in 2007, and major media stations visiting from trate images of the Orthodox specifically covered the cost of roof Belgrade. Church’s values and history. reconstruction and the restoration At first glance, the church does Unfortunately, even the remain- of the choir gallery, the paraklis, not seem to possess any antiquities ing frescos will have to be complete- the baptismal chamber and the which suggest a venerable histori- ly repainted, said Nojkic, because parish home. cal past. The exterior noticeably of the extent of the damage. If you would like to visit the has had a fresh coat of paint, exten- A tender is expected to be church, Ranjil Nojkic is happy to sive roof repairs, and new doors released soon in order to commis- show you around when he is in and windows. sion the project. attendance, most evenings from Inside, bright-white plaster cov- The bell tower, one of two other 5pm. Bar Review: Shop Review: Prince Coffee House Art eople have really been rav- options are definitely more appeal- More importantly, all refresh- nut and white chocolate is conve- he right accessories com- ing about the new Prince ing. My choice of vanilla and cin- ments, including herbal teas, and niently sized to about a three-bite plete an outfit but are some- PCoffee House, and with good namon iced coffee was served in a even alcoholic beverages such as serving, and priced at only 60 Ttimes hard to find among reason. beautiful glass and topped with whiskies and rums, are all very cents. Be warned, it’s hard to Prishtina’s confusing retailers. First of all, the interior is swirls of sweet caramel. reasonably priced, taking into con- choose a favourite because each At Art, a Bulgarian chain, you immaculate, reminiscent of high- Thankfully, the coffee isn’t just sideration the super sophisticated variety tastes better than the next. are assured an adequate choice in end coffee chains located all over tipped over ice cubes, but instead digs which initially suggest inflat- You can also enjoy a cup of style, quality and price. the rest of Europe. Second, the blended together to create a dense ed prices. Prince Coffee at home, as it’s avail- The shop is small but offers array of coffee options is immense texture that is undeniably a pleas- Don’t forget to sample their able for purchase at the café and extensive varieties of goods, espe- – hot, cold, bitter, sweet, chocolate, ure to sip. Similar blended drink many desserts, which sit behind a shops across the country. cially leather-made selections. mint, latte, frappe, Turkish, Greek, options are also available in the large window display at the bar, If leather is your thing, dozens Americano – the list goes on. form of fruit smoothies, in and are made directly in the coffee Prince is located in Garibaldi of belts, wallets, gloves and bags Classic, round coffee tables are flavours such as apple, pineapple house’s kitchen. Each piece of Street, in the former Rilindja are displayed in the shop, and scattered throughout the spacious and banana. dessert, such as cheesecake, hazel- printing house. many more are available for order interior and are almost always full from the in-store catalogue. throughout the day. High ceilings Belts cost between 5 and 29 euro, add further breathing space, while while wallets are priced between 5 romantic lighting, soft neutral and 31 euro. colours and accents of wood create Other goods offered by the store a tremendously cosy place to include watches, a selection of unwind and enjoy a cup of joe. jewelry, ties, umbrellas, cigarette A large bar runs across one side holders, pens, key chains, and of the space, full of busy employ- lighters, just to name a few. ees operating buzzing coffee More expensive pieces include machines, blenders and grinders luggage and briefcases, priced in order to create the alluring from 50 euro to well over 100 euro. brews displayed on the large, over- However, all leather pieces are head menu. Although Prishtina guaranteed 99 percent leather. classics such as machiattos, Art’s merchandise is well-suited espressos and Turkish coffee are for gift-giving, and the store also available, each option is provided provides gift-wrapping for conven- in three different varieties of ience. Prince Coffee blends, such as Art has two shops in Prishtina, Dolce Aroma, Grande Aroma and the first is in Bill Clinton Y Prince Gold. Boulevard (across from Pro Credit M However, latte and iced coffee Bank) and the other in the Youth C and Sport Palace. K 12 February 26 - March 11, 2010 neighbourhood

Serbian Police End Gruevski’s Vision for Skopje Mladic Search, No Arrest

Provokes Capital Argument olice in Belgrade ended Depending on your viewpoint, the Macedonian leader’s ambitious plans for the city are either going to add some a search on Tuesday afternoon of war crime

News in Brief News P much-needed splendour, or are a tasteless waste of money. indictee Ratko Mladic’s house and surroundings in the Banovo Brdo neighbour- hood in Belgrade, saying they By Sinisa-Jakov confiscated ‘a number of Marusic movable objects and a small sum of money’. ith the controversial Lawyer Svetozar Vujacic reconstruction of the told the Tanjug news agency WMacedonian capital’s city that police confiscated ‘a centre well underway, authorities number of CDs, cassettes and have finally released a video show- organiser books, as well as a ing what they hope will be the final certain amount of money, result. during the search conducted “Vision of Skopje 2014” portrays in the presence of two wit- the city adorned with elaborate nesses’. bronze monuments, triumphal The country’s Interior arches, obelisks, cascading foun- Minister Ivica Dacic con- tains, new bridges, and domed firmed that the search was buildings – the whole ensemble fus- part of the authorities’ regu- ing classical and baroque architec- lar activities aimed at locat- tural themes. ing and arresting the remain- “The aim was to cover over the ing Hague fugitives. greyish architecture of the old Broadcaster RTS earlier communist era”, the mayor of the reported that about 20 armed city centre municipality of police members and three or “Centar”, Vladimir Todorovic, An artist’s impression of how Skopje will look in 2014 four vehicles were in front of explained at the video presentation Mladic’s house in Blagoja beside Skopje’s best-known land- look when the rebuilding work is They say the new monuments last week. Parovica Street No. 119, mark, the Stone Bridge. Caught by complete. are in poor taste and combine But controversy has only grown blocking the approach to the surprise by the swift pace of con- Many people were surprised to styles unnaturally. They dismiss since then, overshadowing the house. struction, many argued that the learn that the authorities intended the project as an attempt to revive ever-present topics of Macedonia’s Neighbours said that building’s location and appear- to add classical and baroque ele- dead architectural motifs, in the EU accession bid and its NATO Mladic’s son Darko was in the ance did not fit the surroundings. ments to the front of a planned wrong time and place. membership, both held up by the house, Alarm grew when at the same multi-storey car park. “This is a catastrophic idea that Greek blockade linked to the dis- time it was revealed that the gov- Not surprisingly, architects disregards the rules of urban plan- pute over Macedonia’s name. ernment planned to help finance involved in the project express ning and aesthetics,” said Nikola However, the heated public Italian Prosecutor: the erection of a new church on unlimited enthusiasm about the Naumoski, of Plostad Sloboda. He debate appears to have started too the city’s main square. The changes. “This project is bold and described the recent video as a Balkans is Drugs late, because the authorities seem announcement prompted the city’s much needed for Skopje,” Vangel political advert for VMRO determined to complete what they Warehouse large and mainly Muslim Bozinovski, one such architect, DPMNE, the centre-right party of have already planned and Albanian community to demand said last Wednesday. the Prime Minister, Nikola designed. talian anti-mafia national that a mosque be built on the oppo- Bozinovski who designed the Gruevski. For some, the bronze and marble prosecutor Pietro Grasso site side of the same plaza. memorial house to the Skopje- He also complained that the ornaments, and the new buildings Ihas called the Balkans a Faced with the prospect of los- born beatified nun Mother monuments and buildings envis- drawing on architectural styles “warehouse for drugs”. ing a case before the Theresa, which opened last year, aged in the project provided a one- from the past, will make the capital In an interview with Constitutional Court, because the sat on the commission that select- sided, mono-ethnic version of look more dignified and more in Montenegrin television secular character of the state pro- ed the projects for “Skopje 2014”. Macedonia’s history that did not line with the capitals of other Vijesti, Grasso explained that hibits state funding of religious “The final look of the central enjoy a consensus even among the European countries whose values criminals choose the Balkans objects, the government sold the area was not compiled to suit ethnic Macedonian majority. Macedonia is striving to follow. to store drugs intended for site of the church to the someone’s caprice,” he main- The concentration on ethnic To others, the architectural the European market because Macedonian Orthodox Church, at tained, arguing that proper selec- Macedonian historical figures and value of the project, and the of its proximity to the market a bargain price. The Islamic tion procedures had been duly fol- the affair of the state-sponsored alleged reliance on what they see for sale. Religious Community now wants a lowed. church had the potential to re- as outdated styles, is questionable. “Due to the location, drugs similar arrangement made for At the promotion of the video ignite simmering religious and Many have objected also to the cost can be brought in less than 24 their mosque. last week, the Minister of Culture, ethnic conflicts, the activist said. of the refurbishments, estimated hours to a location in Europe. Since then, it has been revealed Elizabeta Kancevska Milevska, Some would say these conflicts at around 200 million euro, and to This brings changes in drugs that the government is funding the said the authorities remained have already begun. Last weekend, the authorities’ reluctance to in the European market,” construction of over a dozen open to fresh suggestions, as long an ethnic Albanian NGO “Razbudi reveal the precise costs. Grasso said. bronze and marble monuments as they complemented the overall Se” (Wake Up) staged a protest on Until now, the entire project has He went on to say that organ- scattered across the city’s central vision for the city. the city square, accusing the proj- remained largely under wraps. ised criminal groups consist area. The most controversial of However, she did not explain ect of fomenting divisions. Although the authorities began of members of the secret the new monuments is the 22- why most members of the public The Islamic Religious reconstructing certain monu- police and paramilitary metre-high bronze statue of only found out about the design of Community, IVZ, has repeated its ments and buildings in the capital groups from the former Alexander the Great, for which the new buildings after their con- calls for a new mosque on the city back in 2008, few then realised this Yugoslav republics. space has been reserved in struction had already begun. square to match the new church. was the start of a much broader The fact that they have Skopje’s central square. Vasko Popetrevski, editor at the Meanwhile, another NGO, overhaul. taken over all of the dirtiest The monument, has cost at daily newspaper Dnevnik, said “Pomiruvanje”, (reconciliation), is In 2008, the authorities started job from Italian colleagues around 5 million euro, is currently that “millions of euros of public demanding that five new churches rebuilding the old neo-Romantic shows how strong they are, being cast in Italy and is due to go money are being spent on chang- be built at the western entrance to Macedonian National Theatre, a Grasso said. up in 2011. They are now prepar- ing the face of the capital without Skopje to match the five mosques casualty of the 1963 earthquake. “These criminal groups ing work on an ornate fountain to any consultation of the public already present there. Soon after, foundations were laid have begun to deal with the surround the statue of the warrior about it”. The opposition Social Democrat for the new Museum of dirty and dangerous job of king. This month, work started on One of the most vociferous leader, Branko Crvenkovski, has Macedonian Struggle. procurement of drugs. They the new foreign ministry building opponents of the building frenzy is condemned the project as an exer- Speculation mounted that a buy drugs in South America on the riverbank whose design the architect Miroslav Grcev. “In cise in “kitsch” and as “spend- much larger project, aiming to and provide its transport incorporates neo-baroque ele- this computer-generated ugliness thrift” at a time when Macedonia change the entire image of the city, where necessary. ments. everything is phony,” he recently is struggling to overcome the glob- was secretly underway last year, “Based on these ‘jobs’ the On Tuesday, the authorities told media. al downturn and unemployment is when the authorities started con- criminal groups earn a lot, announced that work would begin Some local NGOs are also cam- over 30 per cent. structing the Archeological and being in this ‘business’ on a new Criminal Court whose paigning hard against the However, Gruevski is not back- Museum. does not require big invest- massive pillars have a classical changes. “Plostad Sloboda” ing down. The new buildings will This was more controversial. ment because the drug is gen- Y look. The footage presented last (Freedom Square) and “Prva Arhi provide much needed space for Unlike anything seen in the city’s erally paid on delivery, which week gave the public their first Brigada” (First Archi-Brigade) public offices that currently waste M recent history, the design involved tells of a great trust between opportunity to see how the new stand at the helm of this resist- money on renting premises, he C placing tall antique columns these groups..” K buildings and monuments will ance. says. opinion February 26 - March 11, 2010 13 Kosovo: Independence Day Dear Teta Mia... versal morality since the 19th Century are of the Albanian enclaves in the north. I on the side of the self-determination of drove along the road on the north side of nations. the Ibar connecting Mitrovica to the Teta Mia solves your problems By Gerard Gallucci By any score, Kosovo is independent Albanian village of Cabra in Zubin Potok. and will remain so until Europe makes I stopped to talk with a group of men and nations irrelevant. What is this independ- boys who had put out the flag of their new My car looks like it might break down, but I need it to urope has never known what to do ence? It is that declared and taken by the country and they assured me all was drive between London and Prishtina. What should I do? with the Balkans; it “produces too majority Kosovo Albanian population. peaceful. With dialogue and good will on much history” for the rest of the E There is no such a thing as a Kosovar, not all sides we got through those days with- A driver, Prishtina/London continent to consume. In 1991, the inabili- yet and perhaps never. But this does not out difficulty. Later the Serbs did react, ty of Europe to get ahead of the curve in reduce the legitimacy of this independ- including burning down Customs. The hat a serendipitous question! I have recently Yugoslavia allowed the wars there to ence. The problem comes here as else- story of what provoked their action experienced the flaws of the internal com- become the ethnic cleansing orgy that where in the Balkans where, under the remains to be told. Wbustion engine myself, and can consequent- made all the subsequent problems worse. Ottomans, the mixing of peoples made Who a people are, how they define ly offer some sound advice on the merits of mechan- Germany’s premature recognition of simple separation impossible. ics throughout Europe. themselves and what country they belong Slovenia and Croatia in December 1991 On February 17, 2008, the Kosovo Of course, the answer to your question depends on to is not something that can emerge from helped make everything that happened Albanians declared independence. I whether you do break down, and whether you do so either the barrel of a gun or the stroke of after largely inevitable. The failure to believed at the time and still do that it was in London or in Prishtina. Since your car is already a pen. In practice, compromises must be intervene forcefully and urgently to stop not only inevitable but timely as the situ- threatening to give up on you, the first thing you the slaughter of civilians in Bosnia and ation could not much longer remain sta- made and no ethnically homogeneous should do – if you are in London – is get yourself cov- Herzegovina still haunts Europe. The US, ble in the face of pent up Albanian desire state can exist in the Balkans. ered by one of the roadside assistance agencies. for its part, seemed content to leave the to take charge of their own affairs and get Kosovo has the responsibility to But be warned – even this sort of insurance, how- Balkans to the Europeans, intervening – out from under an international tutelage empower non-Albanian communities ever responsible you are, may not work: in the recent as with Dayton – only when it became that had run its course. south of the Ibar to govern their own local wintry conditions that blighted Blighty over clear they were not capable of solving this The great powers failed to play their affairs just as Serbia has for its minori- Christmas, the main roadside recovery company European problem themselves. part effectively in bringing this interna- ties. But where lines can be drawn to couldn’t cope – and was declining to help some freez- But the root causes of the problems in tional phase to an appropriate end. The allow people to live in “their” state, it is ing motorists if they stood any sort of chance of stay- the Balkans go deeper. Ever since the Quint mistakenly believed they did not foolish, dangerous and unjust to do other- ing safe and warm. French Revolution and Napoleon have to really bargain with Belgrade and wise. Kosovo is independent but only the Such insurance does not exist in Kosovo as far as I unleashed upon Europe and the world the ultimately they left the Albanians holding lazy will seek to grab the north in order to am aware. But there is little need. First, the country reality of the “nation,” it has become the bag of a half-baked and imposed “set- provide the new nation with a “multi-eth- is small, so only in the remotest of villages will you almost impossible to stop its spread. tlement package” that settled little. nic” facade. This logic applies as well to struggle to flag down a passing car or tractor. Since the passing of “divine right”, The “problem” of the north must also any effort to prevent any subsequent And secondly – and far more importantly – people political power has been legitimised on be seen in this context. Any effort to agreements the Kosovo Albanians may will always, always help. Whether your car’s stuck in the basis of the “people”. Though this impose the rule of one people over anoth- make with that other majority Albanian the snow on the unasphalted adventure course to may take the form of demos or class, the er remains morally unjustified and state next door. Boge, Rugova, or a tyre bursts on a new hole in the most powerful claim is that of blood. unlikely to succeed. Ferizaj road, or smoke billows out of the bonnet in Kosovo must be freed of the handcuffs Once this claim receives widespread On that Feburary 17 of two years ago, between Leposavic and Zvecan, benevolent drivers the unfinished status process has left it in. acceptance within the group to which it is we in the UN in the north monitored and caught behind you will stop. Thus the need before the next independ- said to apply, it becomes very difficult to waited for reactions. Many people in In my now vast experience of mechanics, I come ence day for further negotiations to arrive overcome or brush aside. In this sense, Pristina feared the Serb reaction. out hands-down in support of Kosovars over Brits. Kosovo independence was inevitable after We had talked with everyone we could at a final status that can be approved with- Our car blew its head gasket right in the middle of 1999. And it was justified, justified in the reach in the days prior to remind the in the UNSC. Christmas and New Year, two miles shy of the M40 only way declarations of independence Serbs of our “redlines” We talked con- Gerard Gallucci was UN Regional motorway in Home Counties Britain, and it was all have ever been justified, by seizing it and stantly and then on the 17th, travelled Representative in Mitrovica between 2005 we could do to rouse a garage from its mulled-wine- making the seizure stick. And justified throughout the region checking on poten- and 2008. Read his blog at www.outside- fuelled torpor to inform us that we were probably too by the fact that natural law and uni- tial trouble spots and verifying the safety walls.blogspot.com looking at a new engine for a thousand quid and no- one could start work until the next decade. In stark contrast, within 20 minutes of calling Amir in Prishtina to suggest to him that perhaps the Five myths about Kosovo clutch cable had snapped, he had found the only other right-hand-drive cable in the country, in Peja, and Two roommates in Prishtina – a Kosovar and a German – was about to leave in search of it. For dull techy reasons, Amir eventually had to skip BY Martin Wahlisch share their most striking and basic common observations. off to Albania for another cable, charging us 80 euro and Behar Xharra for his “time and petrol”. It had cost us 80 pounds to get the car towed the five miles to the garage in the UK. ‘Prishtina is a grey capital’ and lives with you. Leave Prishtina, and the population is Muslim, less than 0.1 What flexibility! What jaw-droppingly low costs! Foreigners can often be heard to quip you’ll find yourself eating filja, drinking per cent would be able to explain the dif- What innovation and entrepreneurship Kosovo has that the ‘good thing about snow in fresh milk and eating homemade cheese. ference between a muezzin and a mullah. to offer the stranded motorist! Prishtina is that you don’t see the There are also film festivals like People drink and smoke (even during The reasons for these outstanding qualities are garbage anymore.’ The air is often burnt Dokufest in Prizren (which has been official meetings), and you’ll find less sometimes sad. Unemployment is so high here that with the smell from the old coal power running annually since 2002), as well as women with headscarves than in Paris. people will go to the ends of the earth – or at least the station, which lies kilometres away. drama, jazz, folklore, and river tubing as The city of Gjakova in western Kosovo Patriotic Highway – to undertake a simple, poorly Though, believe it or not, Prishtina also other highlights. is 85 per cent Muslim but recently elected paid job. offers one of the largest and inexpensive a Catholic mayor - could there be more The competition is stiff among plentiful mechan- varieties of café, bar and restaurant ‘Kosovo has no future’ tolerance? ics – it’s the customer’s call. In the UK, it’s a suppli- structures, easily competing with Berlin. Economically isolated, landlocked and er’s world and the mechanics have us under their oil- Kosovo’s pot-holed capital might be less a source of tension with its cultural ‘Kosovo is war-torn’ stained thumb. And the road safety standards in the pretty than Prague, but it’s a cheerful backwardness. But Kosovo’s greatest We saved the best for the last. Over 10, UK are high compared to Kosovo’s; witness the horri- place to be, particularly with a nightlife unexploited treasure is its youth. 000 Nato Kfor troops are still in the ble number of traffic accidents you’ll drive past on where clubs play live music seven Around 75 per cent of the population is country, securing historical buildings, summer getaways. evenings a week. below 35 years old, and because of the churches and bridges. The widely known As Kosovo’s economy grows and employment war a significant portion of it has spent dispute between Kosovo and Serbia is increases, as it edges its way towards EU integration ‘Why visit Kosovo?’ time abroad in Europe and the United strictly political; besides March 2004, vio- and adopts EU directives on road safety, the lives of A poor country with a communist States, racking up degrees and learning lent action ended in 1999. So, you won’t its citizens should improve. But I suppose this is a touch to its infrastructure and no beach, English. Even local beggars can hold a get shot at when you arrive at Prishtina plea to Kosovo as it moves up the league tables: Kosovo is small, but with the advantage conversation in English or German. airport. A May 2008 UN report stated remember this spirit of entrepreneurship, remember that you can reach beautiful canyons Young people are resourceful and enthu- that the Balkans was one of the safest how innovative and flexible your citizens have been, stretching through the Gjeravica moun- siastic, eager to learn and explore. Plus, areas in Europe. Kosovo’s crime rate is remember how to help shivering drivers stranded on tains (the highest peaks in Kosovo) with- it’s easy to do business here: Kosovo has lower than any other Balkan country; the side of the road. EU countries do a lot better than in several hours; they’re great for hiking the lowest taxes in the Balkans, cheap according to 2009 reports released by the Kosovo does – but not everything. and rock climbing. You can visit valleys, property and cheap labour, with an aver- European commission and United Treasure what you do well. Don’t forget how to find waterfalls, Ottoman remains, 13th centu- age monthly salary of 160 to 190 euros. Nations, it’s the UK that currently leads a clutch cable at a moment’s notice from another ry mosques and orthodox churches, tra- Europe’s crime record. country. ditional houses with red roof tiles and ‘Kosovo is a fanatic islamic state’ This article was first published on And if you’re still unsure, I have one extra piece of encounter traditional village hospitality; Whilst you’ll spot a mosque at most www.cafebabel.co.uk, where you can read advice for you: Don’t buy a Freelander on Ebay. Y people will share their homes, stories corners in Prishtina, and the majority of it in five other languages. M C To send a letter to Prishtina Insight, email [email protected]. K 14 If you would like your NGO to appear in February 26 - March 11, 2010 our Making a Difference feature, please NGO Focus email [email protected]

Embassies Civil Rights Program in Kosovo and Liaison Offices in – Making the Return Easier Prishtina

American Address: "Nazim Hikmet" no. 30 Arbëria/Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina By Lawrence Marzouk Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 516 Austrian Address: "Ahmet Krasniqi" no. 22 Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina ince 1999, Civil Rights Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 284 Program in Kosovo has Belgian Shelped more than 50,000 Address: "Taslixhe" I, 23 A refugees, returnees, internally dis- 10000 Pristina placed people and persons at risk Phone: +381 (0) 38 734 734 rebuild their lives following con- British flict. Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 6 The work of this NGO ranges Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina from counselling to securing the Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 700 right documentation across bor- Bulgarian ders, so that people can return to Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 12 their country of origin and home. Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina Executive director Naim Phone: +381 (0) 038 245 540 Osmani told Prishtina Insight: Danish “The events in former Yugoslavia, Address: "Nene Teresa" no. 2 during 90s, have impacted largely 10000 Prishtina the life and the destiny of many Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 995 people in these areas. Dutch “Hundred of thousands of Address:" Xhemal Berisha" no. 12 refugees, IDPs and other cate- settle the status of these people, administrative authorities and Velania, 10000 Prishtina gories of affected people still whether through the process of courts in Kosovo. Phone: +381 (0) 38 224 61 remain very vulnerable return or through support of their The Norwegian Refugee Finnish and with no certain integration in the countries where Council founded the Civil Rights Str. Perandori Justinian No. 19 solution of their sta- there were/are temporarily set- Program Kosovo in 1999, in close Pejton tus. tled. cooperation with UNHCR. 10 000 Pristina “The govern- “The most work and efforts in On December 1, 2004, CRPK Phone: +386 43 737 000 ments of countries this regard was made by interna- started to operate independently French Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 67 which followed dis- tional organisations and NGOs, as as a local, Kosovo-based non-gov- Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina solution of the for- well as by local NGOs, acting in ernmental organisation and is the Phone: +381 (0) 38 22 45 88 00 mer state, due to polit- cooperation with the former.” leading free legal aid provider in Greek ical, territorial and Civil Rights Program in Kosovo Kosovo. Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 68 other reasons, never provides free legal assistance, CRPK has a network of offices Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina made sufficient information and counselling to within Kosovo – in Prishtina, Peja, Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 013 efforts to those in need. Gjilan, Mitrovica and Prizren, German It has been the UNHCR’s imple- with satellite offices in Gracanica Adress: "Azem Jashanica" no. 17 menting partner in legal aid and Zvecan, all providing free Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina projects since the conflict legal information, through a mul- Phone: +381 (0) 38 254 500 ended in 1999. tiethnic team of lawyers. Italian Osmani added: “More The NGO also conducts field vis- Address: "Azem Jashanica" no.5 than 50,000 direct benefi- its to reach isolated areas and vul- Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina ciaries and double that in nerable minority communities. Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 925 indirect beneficiaries With its sister organization Japanese were assisted during this PRAXIS in Serbia, and the Address: "Rexhep Malaj" no. 43 10000 Prishtina period.” Humanitarian Law Centre in Phone: +381 (0) 38 249 995 CRPK also assists people at a Montenegro, CRPK visits centres Luxemburg regional level by providing the in Serbia on a regular basis to pro- Address: "Metush Krasniqi" no. 14 necessary documents to settle vide legal assistance and counsel- Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina their status. This involves provid- ing to IDPs from Kosovo. Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 787 ing information on their place of Malaysian origin and by representing them For more information visit Address: "Bedri Shala" no. 48 on various legal issues before www.crpkosovo.org 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 243 467 Norwegian Address: "Sejdi Kryeziu" no. 6 10000 Prishtina Easy Medium Hard Phone: +381 (0) 38 232 111 00 Saudia Arabian y Address: Dardania SU 7, building 2, #1 10000 Prishtina 837 987 3 163Phone: +381 (0) 38 549 203 Slovenian 924 836 3942Address: "Anton Ceta" no. 6 10000 Prishtina 76 5 5 47 Phone: +381 (0) 38 244 886 Swedish 46 3 3276 5 498 Str. Perandori Justinian No. 19 Pejton 3958 67835610 000 Pristina Phone: +381 38 24 57 95 751 8 2349 978 Swiss Address: "Adrian Krasniqi" no. 11 851 2 67 10000 Prishtina Phone: +381 (0) 38 248 088 Y 69 2 615 8241Turkish M Address: "Ismail Qemajli" no. 59 C Arbëria /Dragodan, 10000 Prishtina 97 2 1 928 65 1 Phone: +381 (0) 38 226 044 K By Visar Hapçiu February 26 - March 11, 2010 15 in Prishtina Timeout Contact Prishtina Insight if you would like your event to feature or to advertise your venue. Email [email protected]

Prishtina Diary Friday, February 26, 10 pm Duplex Club: Skopje’s DJ Bobi with House music and DJ Pamoni’s Hip Hop mixes to entertain the guests Cinema

February 26, 9pm Purple (ex Flirt caffe): DJ Doni

February 26, 9pm Filikaqa Sports Bar: Karaoke returns to Filikaqa after a two week break (call 044 788 748 for reservations)

February 26, 11pm Peppermint Club: Special Deep House set by Alban Hi-Dini

February 26, 10pm Tease Club: Rona Nishliu and The Jingles entertaining Tease Club’s guests once again

February 26, 9pm First Club: The well known DJ Tomekk performs ABC Cinema is currently airing the Albanian Pristina In Your February 27, 10pm movie West East West, winner of Prifilmfest 2009’s special award. Duplex Club: Hip Hop and rap music all Pocket city guide Legion, an adventure/horror movie starring night long with DJ Boogieman Paul Bettany, Denis Quaid and Lucas Black is set to replace it in the coming days. New issue for sale at February 27, 10pm The Apocalypse is a theme many moviemakers Dukagjini and Dit e Nat Tease Club: Hana Cakuli and Teletubies are using these days, and Legion is one of them. band will be performing this Saturday This time God has sent a legion of angels to get For more info tel. +38 649 173 447 the job done. Will they succeed?

February 27, 8pm For more information, check ABC’s offi- cial website kinoabc.info or call 038 243 117. Hard Rockers Club: The Freelancers, http://pristina.inyourpocket.com Madgod, Bim Bimma, Diadema, Dj.Jimi and Labinot Sponca will all be performing to a passionate crowd

February 27, 9pm Novel: Agronom band performing live at Depo is Back Novel This Friday marks February 27, 11pm the reopening of a Peppermint Club: DJ Flow with his out- one of Prishtina’s standing Hip Hop mixes best know and best loved clubs, March 3, 11pm Depo. Peppermint Club: Endri Buka (DJ DJ Jungle will take Boocky) from Tirana’s Lollipop club care of entertain- ing the guests at Special announcements: this long-awaited Starting from February 25, Purple club hip hop music will be organising Karaoke nights every extravaganza. On Thursday. The events will kick off at Saturday, Mimo 8.30pm. will be bringing you the best of his ‘Macja mbi çatinë e nxehtë’ is being House mixes. staged at the National Theatre of Kosovo. Y For reservations or more information M C regarding the play call 038 224 397. K 16 February 26 - March 11, 2010 marketing

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