“SERVING THE ANGLER WHO TRAVELS” $5

A MONTHLY NEWSLETTER THE REPORT April 2016 Vol. 29, No. 4

Dateline: oman my guide on his new boat fishing bait is to be had in and near that balls for bonito and a variety of other famed city, in mangrove swamps and On-Site Report species of . I am delighted to on abundant flats. The prime targets are All about a Wind-Blown report that this new fly fishing frontier sea bream and grunter. I did go fishing holds much promise, and I look for- once, but only to go jigging with dead Fly Fishing Trip to Oman ward to a return. bait a few miles offshore where our My visit to Oman followed visits guide took us to some structure. We Editor Note: Subscriber Terry Shultz caught a variety of fish, including em- checked in this month with an intrigu- perors, groupers and trevally. I plan to ing report on a fly fishing trip to Oman, return to Abu Dhabi and explore its fly which is called the “Switzerland of the fishing opportunities. Mideast” by those who know that part My visit to Oman began on the of the world. Is this our next hot fly afternoon of December 12, with a fishing destination? Maybe . . . . flight to the capital city of Muscat. his past December, I was fortu- There, I met Clare Carter, co-owner nate to spend a week fly fishing of Arabian Sport Fly Fishing (http:// Tin Oman, a nation on the south- blog.arabianfly.com/) and we enjoyed ern border of Saudi Arabia. First, I dinner at a fine local Omani restaurant. spent three days with my guide patrol- Next morning, we met at the airport ling the surf along the beach, watch- to Abu Dhabi, the capital of United and took a one-hour flight southwest to ing for permit as they came into the Arab Emirates (where my son and a small town called Duqm. There, we shallows in search of crabs. Then, after daughter-in-law live), and to India’s were met by Brandon King, my guide a day of driving southwest along the Andaman Islands for three weeks of fly and Clare’s partner, and we went to a Omani coast, through incredibly beau- fishing. While I did not do any fly fish- local hotel, Park Inn (by Radisson). I tiful mountains, I spent three days with ing in Abu Dhabi, I did learn that there quickly changed and tackled up, and we drove to a beach about half an hour SUPPORT OUR CORPORATE SPONSORS away where, for the next three days, Brandon and I marched back and forth along the surf over a three-mile stretch, searching for and occasionally cast- ing to Indo-Pacific permit. What is an Indo-Pacific permit? The Latin name for it is Trachinotus blochii, and it is IN THIS ISSUE related to the Atlantic permit, Trachi- notus falcatus. It is also known as the New Zealand Cuba silver pompano or, sometimes, simply A NZ Appreciation Another Look at the pompano, as well as snub-nosed dart. Plus a Travel Guide Legality of Cuba Travel Pages 4–5 Page 10 Brandon and Clare had told me marching up and down the beach has Russia proved to be a very successful tech- The Real Skinny on A Major Shakeup a Newly Opened Lodge on the Kola Peninsula nique. The tackle I used included a Pages 5–7 Pages 11–12 9/10 wt ADG Titanium rod and Rio General Salt Water intermediate #10 Chesapeake Bay Subscriber-Written Reports line. The fly of choice was a weighted What You Need to Know The Bahamas, Christmas Island, about Fly Fishing the Bay Montana, Arizona and More crab imitation that mimics the crabs Pages 7–8 Pages 11–14 habituating the surf on which the per- THE ANGLING REPORT mit feed. Alas, we were plagued by All sizes, large and small. We saw a clouds and a good amount of wind dur- number that appeared to weigh three to ing my visit, and that made spotting the seven pounds, and we also saw some permit a challenge. Brandon has years larger ones in the 15- to 20-pound of experience and keen eyesight, how- class. Clare has posted photos of some ever, and we saw roughly 15 permit larger than that, in the 20- to 30-pound that first day. I got to cast to most of class. So, I think anglers can expect a them, and even got a few follows, but wide range of permit angling opportu- sadly no hookups. Our day was inter- nities here. THE ANGLING REPORT rupted around noon, as it was each sub- The next day we drove some 400 EDITOR sequent day for the next six by an in- miles through magnificent mountains Don Causey credible lunch prepared by Clare: hum- and desert, southwest along the coast mus, chicken, dates, salads, pita bread, of Oman, arriving at the Marriott Re- MARKETING DIRECTOR sweets, wow! Wonderful! Brandon and sort Salalah in Mirbat, a small town 30 Michael Lyons I calculate that in all we walked four or miles or so up the coast from Salalah, COPY EDITOR five miles during that first day. Oman’s second-largest city, 100 miles Gary Hamel Our second day on the beach was or so north of Oman’s border with Ye- much windier and much cloudier, but men. The next day we put Brandon’s LAYOUT & PRODUCTION we pressed on. I got one shot in the boat in the water and set out. Normally, Ben F. Badger Jr. morning and two in the afternoon, Brandon said, he would have taken me ILLUSTRATIONS but no follows. We left about 4 PM, a northeast up the coast, to his favorite Gordon Allen little ahead of schedule, as the wind fishing areas. But, the wind—yes, had come up stronger and the tide again the wind—was blowing hard ceased to be favorable. Again, this day from the north, making it impossible we walked perhaps six or seven miles to fish northeast of the launch site. We The Angling Report along a beautiful beach. headed southwest from the hotel, and 202-770-9942 Our last day on the beach saw promptly came upon a large bait ball, us walking what we calculated as 12 where I hooked and lost a barracuda. The Angling Report (ISSN: 1045-3539) is published monthly by Oxpecker Enterprises, Inc., 4431 miles. Yes—a lot of walking! Weather- Shortly afterward, around another bait Greenwich Parkway, Washington, DC 20007. wise, this was our best day yet, but still ball, I lost a bonito. Unfortunately, Periodicals Postage Paid at Washington, DC. and windy and somewhat cloudy. I got one the wind continued getting stronger at additional mailing offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to The Angling Report, 4431 shot in the morning and a good number at that point, making fishing the bait Greenwich Parkway, Washington, DC 20007. The in the afternoon, with a few follows, balls very difficult, if not dangerous. Angling Report is not a booking agent, nor is it but no takes. We left when the wind Our only recourse was to move close affiliated with a booking agent, outfitter, or guide. picked up and the tide was no longer to the shore where there were rock How can we help you? favorable. What I learned was that I ledges rising perhaps 20 or 30 feet. needed to be quicker and more accu- There, around the reef in front of the New Subscriptions: A one-year subscription costs $49. Add $11 per year in Canada/Mexico. $29 rate in my to get the fly in front ledges, I hooked and landed a “three- overseas. Visa/MC/Amex accepted. Contact us on the of the permit. the fish needed to see the spot” pompano. At that point, Brandon Web (www.anglingreport.com), by phone (202-770- fly and have the opportunity to take it. spied permit on the reef, so I switched 9942), by e-mail ([email protected]), or by mail (The Angling Report, 4431 Greenwich Parkway, Well, next time. . . . to a crab pattern and began to cast to Washington, DC 20007). How big were the permit we saw? sighted permit. I failed to hook up, Online Extra Upgrade: One year costs $24, in addition to regular subscription fee. Puts one on list to receive e-mail invitations to go fishing FREE in Honor Roll Subscribers return for filing a report. Unlimited access to our trip- „„ The Angling Report encourages also get special consideration for FREE planning database also included. Plus, e-mail and hard copies of monthly newsletters. Same contact details subscribers to file reports on great trips. If you have been on an interesting as above. places to fish and important news devel- trip recently, send a letter-length report Trip-Planning Materials: Same contact details as opments that help the rest of us decide to see if you can get on our subscriber above. By phone, fax, e-mail, or mail. Do your own where to go—or not to go—fishing. Honor Roll. E-mail it to doncausey@ searches on our website, www.anglingreport.com. Click on “Trip-Planning Tools.” Thousands of pages of sub- Subscribers who file unusually impor- anglingreport.com. You can find the scriber reports and previously published articles. tant and useful reports are placed on our complete list of Honor Roll subscribers Subscription Questions: Same contact details as Subscriber Honor Roll and sent a com- on our Web site, www.anglingreport. above. On our website, www.anglingreport.com, click plimentary Angling Report Honor Roll com. Click on “Honor Roll subscrib- on “Subscribe.” fishing cap. Honor Roll subscribers ers.”

April 2016 -2- Volume 29, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT probably because I did not get the fly that the government, under the rule of can chase billfish, dorado, tuna, queen- near enough for them to see it. After the Sultan of Oman is dedicated to pre- fish, and giant trevally. People have fly lunch, we tried the bait balls again, and venting any incidents. I felt very safe fished here before for their own plea- I got lots of hits, lots of follows, but no my entire time in Oman, and look for- sure but, until we arrived, no one had hookups. Brandon told me I was not ward to returning to that lovely country actually set up a fly fishing business in stripping fast enough, and no doubt he with its cordial citizens. Oman. We had to start with the basics was correct. Mike Lyons Note: We felt the need and explain to the local ministries what The next morning, a Friday, was to reach out to Clare and Brandon to fly fishing is, how catch-and-release wonderful. The seas were calm until 1 find out how this operation developed works, and why it is important to us. PM, and everywhere you looked there and more about this promising fishery. “A year later, we now operate out were bait balls. I managed to hook and Here is what Clare had to say: of two main fishing locations. The first land a good number of fish, including “Our Oman story started in the is beach-based, where our clients fish a few longtail tuna and lots of bonito. summer of 2014, when we were on the on foot targeting Indo Pacific permit. This was great fishing, and just what I hunt for somewhere new and undiscov- These beautiful fish, which I like to came to Arabia for! Our last day was ered for a fly fishing destination, acces- call Omani Gold, are as challenging to a repeat of Friday, only better. The ac- sible yet remote, and close enough to catch as any species of permit. They tion in the morning in calm seas was civilization that we could build a home cruise in to feed along the shallow nonstop. We saw lots of dorado (ma- and life. After months of research and banks and shore breaks and annihilate himahi) and I was able to cast to them, scanning Google Earth, and rejecting your crab pattern in just six inches of without success. But a number of bo- hundreds of places, just one place re- water. We base our clients here in one nito did grace my rod that day. Unfor- ally stuck in our minds: Oman. With of the two four-star hotels situated on tunately, we had to leave the fishing at the beach just outside the main town. 1 PM because of the wind. That same Although the location is remote, there afternoon I packed and made a flight are flights in/out of the local airport directly from Salalah to Abu Dhabi, four times a week making it easy to ac- and a few days later back to New York. cess from Muscat. Our second location Why all the wind? When do the is a boat-based operation. We have a winds normally stop and make fly fish- 24-foot, custom-made fly fishing boat ing a more doable activity? Historical- with a center console and front and ly, January through May are the times back casting decks. Again, clients are of calm. I hope that will be true in the based in a top-end hotel by the beach. future. But after my experience, I am There are many activities for non-an- not sure, and anglers planning to fish glers, including sightseeing and snor- in either place should be sure to check keling. Our boat is docked on the jetty out the situation. I heard a number of outside the hotel, so it is just a short theories as to why the normal weather 2,000 kilometers of coast line there walk to the boat. The oceanic drop off pattern appears to have changed, at was certainly enough water to be ex- is quite literally a stone’s throw away least for this year. Some suggest the plored. from the dock, so there is no need abnormal winds are a result of changes “When we arrived in Muscat, the to travel long distances out to sea to in the Earth’s climate. But I will leave capital of Oman, I was beside myself target pelagic species. This makes it that for meteorologists to speculate on. with excitement and also a little unsure easy to spend the morning trolling for I just know I want to investigate the sit- of how easy it would be for a Western billfish and dorado or chasing bait balls uation before I go back again. Anyone woman moving to a Middle Eastern for tuna, queenfish, and trevally, then with more information is urged to send country. I was pleasantly surprised to spending a quiet afternoon exploring it to The Angling Report, which has find that the Omani people are the most the rocky bays and secluded beaches pledged to publish anything received. welcoming and friendly people I have looking for Omani bream, bluefish, and “Oman is a surprising, wonderful, ever had the pleasure of meeting. even schools of milkfish. beautiful country, inhabited by what “We spent six weeks traveling the “With something for every mem- must be the friendliest people in the entire coastline and exploring every- ber of the family, be it fishing, sight- world! Omanis will come up to you, a where we could on foot and by car. seeing, or relaxing, Oman really is a perfect stranger, on the street, look you Oman, we learned, has a plethora of hidden gem. As far as safety is con- in the eye, shake your hand, ask you species to target, from Indo Pacific cerned, Oman is the Switzerland of the if everything is OK and if you like his permit, local Omani bream, bluefish, Middle East. We are always happy to country. There is a strong police pres- grunter, large schools of milkfish, plus answer any questions. Just write us at: ence on the roads, and I understand multiple trevally species. Offshore you [email protected].”

April 2016 -3- Volume 29, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT

Dateline: New Zealand try, have you slap the fewest sand flies teichelmanns.nz) is the place. It’s just (if any), and see tons of different rivers one block off the downtown area. Special Report and streams without ever retracing your Your next four- to five-hour drive An NZ Appreciation, steps. Every road you take will be a new will take you down the West Coast. The one. Here we go. . . . landscapes alone are worth the drive Plus a Travel Guide Arrive in Christchurch and pick up as you head over Haast Pass and on to Editor Note: Occasional correspondent the car you booked months prior to get Wanaka, a town hard not to love. It’s David Lambroughton weighed in this a huge discount. I’d try Ace Car Rent- also the home of a very well-respected month with a New Zealand fishing itin- als first. You might want to overnight in fishing guide, Paul MacAndrew (paul@ erary that will make your eyes mist up aspiringflyfishing.co.nz), who guides far with longing. He loves New Zealand, and wide out of Wanaka. and so will you when you read what he From Wanaka you want to head says about it. Enjoy! to Queenstown via the Crown Range s an outdoor writer/photogra- Road. It’s only about an hour’s drive pher, I’ve had a chance to fish to Q’town, which is the home of an- just about everywhere in the other top guide, Chris Dore (flyfish@ A chrisdore.com). He’s been my go-to guy world that I ever dreamed of but no- where has hit all my buttons like New when I have any questions about any- Zealand. It’s pulled me down there for thing, like the best helicopter rates to the past 37 years, and the past 25 have get somewhere, and such. Queenstown been for the full November through itself is lots of fun, and is also surround- March season. My annual Fly Fishing ed by some wonderful golf courses. Dreams calendar usually has about a From Queenstown you want to 50 percent New Zealand Content. As a Christchurch, as you’ve had a long jour- head southeast to Te Anau (gateway to result, I get lots of people contacting me ney and are overdue for a shower. Then Milford Sound). The Lakeside Motel is with their questions. you want to head east over Arthur’s Pass a great place to stay here. There’s also Most of the inquiries I get are from on Hwy. 73. If you are unfamiliar with a Holiday Park here (“Accommoda- anglers who would like to do lots of driving on the left-hand side of the road, tions to suit everyone’s budget”) just fishing on their own with just a buddy this is a particularly good direction to like those you’ll find in every town or two and not be “living above the take, as it takes you through the least I’m mentioning. There are lots of well- pension” as they say down here. With inhabited area of the country, the West known rivers within an hour’s drive, this in mind, I tell them to come for Coast. and if you’d like to up your chances as long as they can so if they hit some Your first stop is Hokitika, the of success, Dean Bell (www.deanbell- bad weather it will proportionally be a nicest town on the West Coast. It’s flyfishing.co.nz) of Te Anau would be much smaller chunk of their trip. Sec- also really the only one. It’s a great an excellent choice if you can get him. ondly, arrive with good casting skills. place, filled with all those wild people He may not have the best bedside man- Being able to cast 70 to 80 feet of line who headed west until they ran out of ner or patience with the inept, but he is will really give you a leg up, not that “west.” Hokitika is a superb place to the best angler and guide that I’ve ever you ever need to cast that far. but it will park yourself for a couple of days or met anywhere in the world. Nearby, in mean that you have a good grasp of the longer at Hokitika Homestay (info@ Manapouri, Lawton Weber (lawtonwe- mechanics of casting and you are able brenttrolle.co.nz), home of the famous [email protected]) should be on your list to throw a line accurately 25 to 40 feet, artist, Brent Trolle, and his wife, Grace. as well. They often work together with turning over long leaders with some line The food you will eat here was either small groups. speed even with a bit of wind. When grown in their garden or caught that day At this point, head east for about you are casting to individual fish in in the sea. Their son, Dean (deantrolle@ two hours on Hwy. 94 to the town of clear water, accuracy is generally much gmail.com), does some guiding for Gore, one of the most famous fishing more important than fly patterns. them, and a day or two with him will towns in New Zealand. You have lots of As I sit here, writing this on the really set you up on how the game is small streams to choose from here in the kitchen table at one of my favorite little played in New Zealand. Brent himself early season, plus the well-loved Matau- South Island Cottages that I frequently has a wealth of information that will ra River, which flows right through the rent, I’m realizing that what people put lots of X’s on your map. The Trolles middle of it all. For some good info need, as much as all the other info, is a take only a few people at a time (one or guiding, contact Bunny Burgess good itinerary to build their trip around. group really), and, if they are booked ([email protected]). His shop is right So here’s a great route that will show up or you just want a single night, Tei- on the main drag. If it’s lunchtime, try you the most scenic parts of the coun- chelmann’s Bed & Breakfast (book@ a Turkish kabob, just two doors down.

April 2016 -4- Volume 29, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT Dean Whaanga ([email protected]) in years to come. In US dollars, hiring never lock a door, and everyone waves also lives not far away, and is well a guide will generally run you $500 to as you pass them on the road when known as a great fishing guide. $600 a day. Motels will run you about you drive around the rural areas of the From Gore, head north on Hwy. the same as if you were in Montana. South Island. So, maybe the biggest gift 90 to Raes Junction and then north on But, as you find the fishing areas you to us from New Zealand is not just the Hwy. 8. This road takes you through the love the most, and with a little sniff- fishing; it’s realizing that there’s lots of old Gold Rush Towns and the warmest ing around, New Zealand can be very goodness left in the world. Thank You and driest part of New Zealand, with inexpensive. For me, after fishing all New Zealand. It’s been such a wonder- fruit stands everywhere. It also leads to over both islands for many years, I’ve ful privilege and I can’t wait for No- Cromwell, the home of Ronan Creane now pared my options down to a few vember to do it all over again.—David ([email protected]), who guides favorite places surrounded by rivers and Lambroughton. all over the map and also writes on the streams. I now rent four different cot- Postscript: David Lambroughton Sexy Loops blog, which is a good source tages that I orbit between. So, instead dropped us a note after his report was of down-to-earth fishing info and in- of all the packing and unpacking, I just edited saying he keeps a lot of New sights. park myself for a week or two or longer Zealand information on his website The last great stop on this route at one spot and load up the refrigerator (www.DavidLambroughton.com), in- is the town of Omarama, which is less cluding recommendations on Trip Plan- than two hours north of Cromwell. You ning/Gear and “Arriving Ready to Go,” want to stay at the Sierra Motel. Ask for along with short seasonal reports that Neville. He will point you in all kinds he adds to every year. He also posts of directions for streams, rivers, spring fresh photos for his New Zealand Gal- ponds, etc., or hook you up with a fish- lery there, plus the names of some top ing guide. He knows them all. From lodges and great guides. Most important Omarama, you are also not far from of all, you can always buy his latest Fly Mt. Cook, the tallest mountain in New Fishing Dreams calendar there. Zealand. You can drive up for a look on your way back to Christchurch for your Dateline: Chile departure. Departing from Queenstown On-Site Report would also be an option. Mt. Cook is actually closer to Queenstown than The Real Skinny on Christchurch. a Newly Opened Lodge This route that I just took you with good food. A tank of gas can easily through could easily fill two to three last the whole week. When you get to Editor Note: We are indebted to Sub- weeks or two to three months. If it’s the point where I am in my knowledge scriber Bill Wichers for this wonderfully your first trip, you likely would want to of New Zealand, the costs really drop written and thorough report on a new see as much as possible and then find and your time on the water goes up. lodge in Chile. It sounds like a winner. your favorite places to focus on during Often you wind up fishing right out Thanks, Bill, for continuing to check in your next trip, when you would want to your front door, catching the evening on places you visit. have fewer and longer stops. Hiring a hatches with ease. Doing things the y wife, Donna, and I recently few guides, especially early in your trip, way I do, two people sharing costs can had the pleasure of spending can really help bring you up to speed easily fish their brains out for about Ma week at a new (opened No- quickly. Bringing a laptop also really $100 US per day per person, everything vember 2015) fishing lodge in the Lakes helps. You can now get Wi-Fi practical- included. I should also add, if you are Region of Chile, Chimalfe ly everywhere. It makes planning your a golfer, you’ll find Heaven down here, Lodge. Chimalfe is the native Mapuche next stop easy, as well as checking the especially if the rivers need a day or two word for “dragonfly,” which is appropri- river flows and rainfall (www.es.govt. to clear after a freshet. I have a course ate, as the lodge overlooks the outlet of nz). Watching The Breakfast Show on I just love, so I joined the Golf Club. Yelcho Lake, a very productive rainbow Channel One every morning will give When I asked the Club secretary how and fishery famous for you a pretty good handle on the ever- much the annual membership cost was, its dragonfly fishing. Jaime Castillo is changing weather patterns. he said $75 a year. In US dollars that’s the lodge manager, a very experienced As for the costs of fishing in New about $55. This year, I played about 35 guide and skilled chef who previously Zealand these days, it’s really not that rounds and mostly had the course all to was the head guide at Estancia De Los much, especially with the low New Zea- myself. Do the math. Rios Lodge. land dollar. My banking friends tell me Add to all this the fact that you After a long day of flights begin- they don’t expect that to change much can leave the car keys in the ignition, ning in Missoula, Montana, we arrived

April 2016 -5- Volume 29, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT at , Chile, where driver dia also helps in the kitchen and around The next day we left from the boat Juan Carlos picked us up at the airport the lodge. Everyone works hard to launch below the lodge in the Lund and and, after a 30-minute drive, dropped us make your stay memorable—they have went down the Yelcho River, where we at the Hotel Bellavista on Lake Llano- assembled an outstanding staff. Jaime spent most of the morning fishing a quihue in Puerto Varas. The next morn- has guided fly fishermen in Chile for 15 side channel with dry flies and landed ing he took us to another airport where years and in Mongolia (where I first met a dozen or so rainbows and browns up we boarded a charter plane for a very him) for 10 years. Before that, he went to 22 inches. We ate lunch at the lodge, scenic 45-minute flight to the Chaiten to culinary school in Chile. He has been and in the afternoon my wife stayed at Airport. Jaime picked us up, and after the lodge while Jaime took me sight an hour’s drive, with a stop at a local fishing for rainbows at the mouth of the organic farm for fresh vegetables and lake and to a couple of spots on the river berries, we arrived at the lodge perched where I landed six or eight fish up to 20 on a hill in the tiny village of Puerto inches. Cardenas. We were greeted with stun- The fourth day we floated the ning views of Lake Yelcho and its out- Yelcho River in a raft beginning below let, the Yelcho River, and surrounding the lodge. Donna and I landed a dozen mountains, including a beautiful glacier. or so rainbows on dry flies (some sight After settling in, rigging our rods fishing, some blind casting) and another and devouring a gourmet lunch, Jaime dozen rainbows and browns on stream- took us fishing on the lake in a 16-foot ers and Jaime’s mouse pattern, plus a Lund boat with a 25 hp Yamaha motor. 16-inch . We threw adult dragonfly patterns near We spent the fifth day on an explor- emergent bulrushes and caddis emerg- a chef at several top-notch restaurants. atory trip on the lower Yelcho River and ers and adults where the lake transitions As expected, the food was excep- on into the ocean, trolling with spin- into the river. Both Donna and I landed tional, featuring local fresh seafood, ning gear for king salmon. The Yelcho several very strong, hard-fighting rain- beef, chicken, and lamb. Emphasis is has a good run of kings, peaking in the bows up to 23 inches and missed or lost on local, organically raised animals and last half of February (we were there in quite a few more. The fishing in the lake vegetables as well as wild-caught sea- late January). A few salmon had been outlet was especially fun, with several food. Excellent Chilean wines, ice-cold caught in the lower river and Jaime had large pods of fish actively moving and beer in frosty mugs, and the best pisco never fished for them down that low. feeding, providing exciting sight fish- sours you’ll ever taste complement the I managed to land a small (16-inch) ing. food. Breakfasts were cooked to order Atlantic salmon in the river and Donna We fished about eight hours that and lunch was usually fresh meat grilled caught a 12-pound king mackerel (or afternoon and evening, our shortest day. over an open fire with some sort of its equivalent in the southern Pacific) On most subsequent days, we fished salad, fruit, and homemade bread. casting to a bait boil in the ocean. It was 10–12 hours, as Jaime tailors the fishing The second day, we drove to the a calm day with a few spots of rain and days to the guests’ desires rather than a and jet-boated upstream we spent most of it chasing bait boils or set lodge schedule. That meant that our about 12 kilometers in another 16-foot fruitlessly trolling in the estuary of the dinners were generally served around Lund with a jet conversion outboard Yelcho River. The wildlife viewing was 10 PM. motor. The Lund then became a rather great, including large numbers of sea The lodge itself is gorgeous, com- ungainly (but tolerable) drift boat as lions basking on cliffs, a couple of pods fortable, and tastefully decorated. It Jaime rowed us from one good spot to of black dolphins, and a variety of sea has huge windows, a large deck, and a the next. We mostly fished large dry birds (including Magellanic penguins) wood-fired hot tub. The beds, furniture, flies (primarily Fat Alberts) and had chasing baitfish. And the mackerel was and furnishings are first rate, as are the steady action in the morning and early very tasty that night for dinner. gourmet meals and excellent service afternoon until a cold front with a lot of The following day, Donna spent provided by the staff. Features like the wind arrived, at which point the fishing the morning in the lodge catching up fly-tying area, outdoor rod rack, and slowed considerably. We landed nice on work e-mails while Jaime took me boot-changing areas (one inside, one rainbows measuring up to 18 inches and to several locations farther up the lake. outside) were obviously designed by lost a 20-inch brown on a streamer. The It rained all morning, so our hopes for fishermen for fishermen. Six Chilean river had a moderate gradient with lots good with dragonflies businessmen (who love to fish) are the of submerged trees, and the water was were dashed, but I did catch several owners of the lodge. Fernando is the very clear until a glacial till tributary nice browns and rainbows on streamers. caretaker; his wife, Karen, is the chef dumped in just above the launch/take- After an excellent lunch at the lodge (la- (overseen by Jaime); and her sister Na- out spot. sagna), Donna joined us and we fished

April 2016 -6- Volume 29, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT dries and streamers at the mouth of the bird-watching, and horseback riding. on Maryland’s Eastern Shore; trophy lake and several locations downstream The lodge can accommodate up to eight striper fishing on the Susquehanna on the river, catching several more good fishermen. The seven days and nights Flats; and shad runs on Deer Creek, the rainbows and breaking off or missing we spent at the lodge cost $4,800 each Potomac River, and the James River. even more. and included flies and alcohol. Jaime Here is a rundown on all three fisheries. Our last day was spent in the raft made the Puerto Varas hotel reservation White and Yellow Perch. Yellow floating the Futaleufú River, the largest and arranged the transfers and the flight perch usually kick off the angling year tributary to Lake Yelcho. It was one of to/from Chaiten. in this part of the world, with white those days when the fishing was slow— As yet, there are no US agents for perch following soon behind them. no bugs hatching, few fish in feeding this lodge, so booking via their website Hordes of these aggressive fish invade positions, with a major weather change (www.chimalfepatagonialodge.com) is the Chester and Choptank River sys- from cloudy in the morning to sunny the only current option. I expect this to tems to spawn each spring. These are and very windy in the afternoon. Be- change, as representatives from several small fish that hit streamers on a quick tween the two of us, we landed around US booking agencies have scheduled retrieve. They’re more like bass than 15 trout up to 20 inches on a mixture trips to Chimalfe this winter. Enjoy! bluegill, however, and they will put a of dry flies, nymphs, streamers, and the Dateline: maryland good bend in a light fly rod. They’re a mouse fly. great fish to target after a long, quiet We never saw a mosquito, but Discovery winter. They’re also great to eat. Be sure horseflies were annoying at times. High The Real Skinny on you check local fishing regulations be- temperatures were generally in the up- fore keeping any fish. per 60s and most days were cloudy with Fishing Chesapeake Bay These small are found some breeze. We had brief showers sev- in the greatest numbers in the upper eral days and a steady rain one morning. Editor Note: Brett Gaba is author of the reaches of tidal creeks. A 4 to 6 wt rod The king and Atlantic salmon originally recently released book Fly Fishing the will work well on perch, depending on were escapees from cage aquaculture Tidewaters of Maryland’s Chesapeake what line you’re throwing and what type operations located from Puerto Montt to Bay (www.schifferbooks.com), and he of water you’re fishing. For boat fishing Chaiten, but they now have established has spent a great deal of time fishing in open-river holes up to 10 feet deep, wild populations in many area rivers. In those waters. With warm weather just I suggest a 6 wt with a 150-grain sink- the Yelcho, they move upstream above around the corner, we asked Brett to put ing line. For smaller tributary streams, the lake to spawn in the Futaleufú River. together a report on fly fishing the bay a 4 wt with a floating line should do the The rainbows from the lake and upper area in the springtime. trick. I like pink, white, or chartreuse Yelcho River were spectacular fighters, Crazy Charlies, along with shrimp pat- extremely strong and acrobatic. Driving terns such as Joe’s Grass Shrimp. Reach times to the Palena and Futaleufú Rivers out to Joe Cap at Shore Tackle, (www. were about an hour over mostly gravel shoretackleandcustomrods.com) in Gra- roads with some areas of road construc- sonville, Maryland, if you’d like to pick tion. In two years, most of these drives up a few tied by the master himself. The will be on paved roads. shop always has firsthand local informa- The most enjoyable part of this tion on where the hot bite for perch is trip was the sight fishing on the lake and on Maryland’s Eastern Shore. in the three rivers we fished. The water Striped Bass. Later in spring, was very clear and the fish easy to spot striped bass enter Chesapeake Bay in many locations. Casting dry flies to ly fishing Chesapeake Bay waters from the Atlantic Ocean and work their them was great fun! Fishing different in spring can be a moving target way north to spawn in its tributaries. waters almost every day was also very Finasmuch as it depends greatly The ideal place for fly anglers to find attractive to us. Jaime is investigating on the severity of the preceding win- these fish is on Susquehanna Flats, at additional fishing opportunities in other ter. Some years there is a late winter the northernmost end of the bay. As lakes and streams in the area, as well as blizzard that pushes spring back a few its name implies, this area is mainly a figuring out how to effectively fish the weeks into April, causing cold tem- shallow saltwater flat, roughly six miles Yelcho River estuary on the coast. So, peratures and high water, while other by eight miles, with two main channels the future will have even more variety years we might get an early spring with working up the eastern and western in the available fishing. We both felt this daffodils peeking out in late February. shores and a network of smaller cuts trip was a good value and will return. Though the dates differ, there are three woven throughout. Much of the water is Non-fishing activities available major fisheries in play at this time of less than 10 feet deep, with many por- include sightseeing, hiking, kayaking, year: the white and yellow perch runs tions as shallow as three feet or less.

April 2016 -7- Volume 29, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT This fishery can be temperamen- bet is to check with local fly shops to describes a particular day or a multi- tal, with muddy water spilling over see what’s working. Joe Cap at Shore day fishing trip for a certain species. Conowingo Dam putting the fishing Tackle in Grasonville (410-827-7765) “Gaba also shares entertain- off. Cold water temperatures can is one good source of information. ing stories and anecdotes as he goes also kill the bite. If you time it right, For Deer Creek conditions, call Ele about describing the places he fishes however, you’ll quickly learn that at Herb’s Tackle Shop in North East, and the techniques he uses. There calling this a trophy fishery is not at Maryland (410-287-5490). For D.C./ is plenty of technical detail in this all an exaggeration. Fish in the 40- Virginia waters, call the Orvis shop book, but it doesn’t get in the way inch class are caught quite often, with in Clarendon (703-465-0004) or the of the warmth and liveliness Gaba fish in the high 20s and 30s being Orvis shop in Charlottesville (434- brings to celebrating the bay and its common. As for the right rods, lines, 975-0210). They always have the many fisheries. Many chapters seek to and flies for these fish, I recommend scoop on the James and other Virginia link fishing experiences to universal a 9 or 10 wt for two reasons. First, rivers.—Brett Gaba. truths that apply to all fishing. One the chance at 30- to 40-inch fish is Postscript: If you fish with any of such chapter talks about the sundry pretty good; and, second, the flies the guides mentioned above, please fishing trucks the author has owned. you need to throw here can be up to weigh in with a report. Write: mike@ Every serious angler has had a fish- 10 inches long. Big streamers such anglingreport.com. As regards author ing truck, and these vehicles always as Cactus Stripers, Yak Hair Deceiv- Brett Gaba’s new book on the Chesa- hold a sentimental value after a while. ers, and Half-and-Halfs are great The older and more obscure the bet- choices. The water is fairly shallow, ter. The author talks at one point so a moderate sinking line (200 to about his late ’70s Ford F-150 and 300 grams) should cover your bases the summer he spent driving it on the fairly well. The best source of timely Eastern Shore. While not directly tied information on what’s happening on to fishing, it is intimately tied to the the flats is Herb’s Tackle Shop in lifestyle of a serious fisherman, and North East, Maryland (Tel. 410-287- the reader will easily relate. Another 5490—ask for Ele). Captains Pete chapter talks about adopting a dog Dahlberg (http://walleyepete.com/ and teaching her to hunt during a walleye-pete/) and Kevin Josenhans winter when fishing was slow. Con- (www.josenhansflyfishing.com/) of- tent like this evokes the larger Chesa- fer guided trips here when the fishing peake fishing life, painting a vivid is consistent. They both cater to fly peake, I asked subscriber Michael S. picture of what it’s like to fish the bay fishermen. Behot to offer an assessment. Michael regularly. At the end of each chapter, Shad runs. The shad that enter fishes Chesapeake Bay a lot and is there is a detailed recipe for each spe- Chesapeake Bay waters each spring therefore in an excellent position to cies caught. are hickory shad that average between review the book. He writes: “The “Gaba does what many sport- 10 and 14 inches but sometimes run book Brett Gaba has put together on ing authors fail to do: describe the up to 20 inches. Shad are aggressive the Chesapeake is not one of those atmosphere and attitudes that sur- and will chase and hit a fly on an ac- volumes full of vague advice that round a certain fishing community. tive retrieve. This fishery is mostly is hard to apply to your own fish- Indeed, the Chesapeake is a special . Be sure to check ing trips. On the contrary, his book fishery with a unique culture, and local regulations before heading out. is full of information about specific the author has managed to write a The most consistent shad fisheries fishing spots and how to fish them, unique book that does justice to the in this area recently have been: Deer all of it presented in a way that a seri- fly fishery that has developed there. Creek at the Susquehanna River; ous fly angler can understand. The The full name of the book is: Fly Fletcher’s Boat House on the Po- book consists of 12 chapters, one for Fishing the Tidewaters of Maryland’s tomac River; the Upper Choptank on each month of the year. Each chapter Chesapeake Bay: A Calendar Year Maryland’s Eastern Shore; and the includes details on one of the many of Stories, Spots, and Recipes. It James River in mid-central Virginia. fly fishing opportunities available at can be purchased here: http://www. Five to 6 wt fly rods will do the that time of year. These range from schifferbooks.com/fly-fishing-the- trick for these fish. In most situa- the classic Chesapeake striper blitzes tidewaters-of-marylands-chesapeake- tions, floating lines work best. Plan to the less publicized perch and bay-a-calendar-year-of-stories-spots- on using small, flashy streamers. largemouth fishing that are equally and-recipes-5721.html. You can reach Each region and river seems to have important to a full year of fishing in Brett Gaba through his blog at: its own magic shad fly, so your best the Chesapeake area. Each chapter https://smallwater.wordpress.com/.

April 2016 -8- Volume 29, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT

Briefly Noted Things to Do . . . Places to Go . . . New Developments „„ It’s happening—American anglers ters for 15 years and his brother is also January is not a good time for permit. in increasing numbers are going to a seasoned guide on the Tortuga. He is One pair of anglers did find a permit Cuba on fishing trips, as witness this a fantastic guide. lazily tailing in the surf zone near a report from a subscriber who fished “The weather was challenging to rocky shoreline. Despite multiple shots aboard the Avalon II in Queens Garden say the least. In fact, we had to move at it, they did not get a hookup, howev- Archipelago. The trip was marred by in the middle of the first night from er. They told us casting from the bow bad weather, but the subscriber who our first mooring to a more protected of the skiff while rocking in the surf filed the report is generally happy with area. The howling wind kept shifting, zone was quite a challenge. We also the experience. Just be aware that the and the waves made for a few ill pas- saw a few tarpon and came tight once, report came to us in several install- sengers. Still, we caught fish every day. but the encounter turned out to be short ments, so we had to do some fairly ag- Not many—but each day had some lived. Other anglers did catch tarpon. gressive editing to make the pieces all sort of bonus. For example, we had a This is fishing, and I think the anglers come together. As regards our decision few exciting chances to stalk bonefish all realized the variables involved. to leave the subscriber’s name off this on our own when the guide dropped “The trip itself was easy. From the report, see the next item in this section US, we were told you have two pos- for an update on the legality of tourist sible routes: through Mexico City or travel to Cuba. through Cancun. We flew to Mexico “We arrived in Cuba on the tail City and then on to Havana via Aero- end of a cold front and left as another mexico. Some anglers passed Mexico was coming in, with windy conditions. City Airport security with carry-on We experienced one perfect day during rods and reels without incident. I did the week. The fishing was challenging not. My reels, not the rods, caused due to the weather conditions, but my concern, and I had to check my Fish- angling partner and I got it done. We pond carry-on, as well as a 10 wt rod. caught fish every day. Our trip was ar- The rod was broken upon arrival. ranged for us through a Chilean Com- “Our guide spoke good English. pany called Wild on the Fly (www.wil- We had a few breakdowns but nothing donthefly.com). Their service was top- that inhibited our chances at catching notch, with excellent communication us around the corner while moving the fish. Several crew members aboard the and a friendly, knowledgeable staff. boat. For the most part, we fished with mother ship spoke near perfect English “The trip began with a fantastic two anglers rotating on the bow of a and made sure we knew the game plan overnight in Havana, where we were 15-foot Dolphin skiff. When poling for each day. My overall equipment met by an Avalon rep named Tony for hard-bottom flats, one angler would rating can be described as good, which our 4 AM departure on a nice coach wade. We had shots at multiple tail- requires a quick explanation. The bus that is shared with other custom- ing fish during our trip, and, despite mother ship was flawless. The skiffs ers, including divers going to the heavy clouds and brief downpours, we are most likely secondhand and were a same area. The bus ride included two consistently came across fish during a little beat up. We had no problems and bathroom and refreshment stops along three- to four-hour window on incom- I had no concerns, but I could not help the way. Our five-hour crossing to the ing tides. During one memorable ses- but notice rusting corroded bolts on archipelago was rough, and we did not sion we brought four bonefish to hand the console. Otherwise, these guys are have an opportunity for a half day of and came tight to a few more. All but pros all the way. The crew and staff of fishing on arrival, as hoped for initially. one or two of the bonefish were above the Avalon II were as good as it gets. “Once we were underway on average in size. We estimate that our Would I recommend this trip? Yes! Go the mother ship, the guides quickly largest bonefish that day weighed nine while you can. A day/night in Havana rigged up all of the rods and stowed pounds and measured 27 inches. alone is worth the trip.” them nicely in an ample rod rack on “We spent some time on the trip Don Causey Note: The subscriber who the open stern of the boat. I took note poling for permit in deep water on the filed this report gives the cost of his that my guide, Titi, was consulted once outside edges of flats. I did not see any trip as $4,500 for the week. It would or twice by a fellow guide on a tackle permit, and that was a disappointment not be responsible on our part to omit decision. Over the course of the trip I because permit is my preferred target his note that a couple of fellow guests learned Titi has been guiding these wa- species on the flats. However, I know on this trip felt that their guides were

April 2016 -9- Volume 29, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT incompetent and did not put them onto pon Trust (www.bonefishtarpontrust. line of Google. One item appearing fish. As he puts it, “There appears to org). They can issue you a permit that there, as this is written, states succinct- have been some communication prob- fully legalizes your trip as a people- ly that: “Americans are not allowed lems on one skiff. I think the anglers to-people excursion. The permit costs to simply vacation in Cuba. The only on that skiff did not believe their guide $250 (not $500 as I have erroneously way to legally visit is to fall under one knew how to find fish the first couple reported in the past), and it helps BTT of 12 tourist licenses, including family of days. One of those anglers (whom I cover the cost of conservation work it visits, religious activities, professional did not know prior to the trip) did end is doing with Cuban colleagues. Just purposes, and educational reasons, to up with a tarpon and possible shot at a don’t contact BTT expecting them name a few. That means that you can’t permit, however. At least he saw one. I to book your trip. Do that through a go to Cuba to just lay on the beach.” never saw a permit on the trip. The an- travel agent who is set up to book the The item does not specifically glers in the other skiff (whom I know approved people-to-people fishing itin- state that you “can’t just go fishing.” very well) generally thought their erary. Most major agents are set up to But you get the picture. It can be fun guide was missing opportune times for do that. and a bit exciting to ignore an unfair tailing bonefish on shallow flats.” Why many anglers are not ar- and stupid law. And, indeed, you will ranging for this permit is easy to un- probably never suffer any consequenc- „„ Don Causey Note: As editor of derstand. First, there is the $250 cost. es for doing so in this instance. On The Angling Report, I am not fool- Then, there is all that irresponsible the other hand, some spooky political ish enough to take a position on the winds are beginning to blow, in my upcoming presidential election, but I personal view. If I were going to Cuba, think I owe it to longtime paid sub- and I needed a permit (which I don’t scribers to take one more run at point- for reasons I will be glad to explain), I ing out the illegality of tourist travel to would get one before I went there. Cuba and the linkage between that and Postscript: After this report was final- what is happening on the campaign edited, I reached out to Bonefish Tar- trail. Simply put, two of the prominent pon Trust, and it appears more anglers presidential candidates have a Cuban than I thought are fully legalizing their background, and it is no secret that travel to Cuba. Seems, at this writing, they do not agree with the current 421 anglers have legalized their travel president on his efforts to normalize to Cuba through BTT. The BTT person relations with Cuba. If either of these we contacted, incidentally, had this ad- candidates is elected, or another prom- media coverage urging Americans to ditional observation about the wisdom inent conservative candidate for that just drop everything and GO! Enjoy of legalizing your travel to Cuba: “If matter, it is entirely possible that Cu- yourself! The coverage has been ex- a traveler gets into trouble during a ban/American relations are going to go tremely one-sided, and we know our trip to Cuba and needs help from the into a tailspin. If they do, and there is a position has been ridiculed by some US Embassy or State Department, that wave of retribution toward those who in a position to profit from increased traveler had better be traveling legally. supported or exploited the opening to travel to Cuba. So be it. Attempting to Enough said.” Cuba, anyone who traveled to Cuba be accurate is an old-fashioned jour- as a normal tourist will be subject to nalistic ideal that is worth pursuing for „„ We came across a report recently a fine and/or prosecution for violating its own sake. of a tagged tarpon being recaptured the so-called Cuban trade embargo. For the record, we are not the only in Campeche, Mexico, and decided to There are 12 categories of Ameri- media outlet that is telling the truth get an update on what Bonefish Tarpon cans who qualify for travel to Cuba about travel to Cuba. Another outlet is Trust (BTT) is currently doing in that and you can read about them at: National Public Radio (NPR), which area. Here’s the latest from Alexandra https://www.treasury.gov/resource- is hardly a right-wing organization. In Lovett-Woodsum, BTT’s director of center/sanctions/Programs/Documents/ fact, they are widely viewed as slant- development and communications: cuba_faqs_new.pdf. The only legal ing more left than right. NPR recently “As part of BTT’s ongoing efforts tourist-like trips are those conducted aired an hour-long special on travel to to identify habitats that are important through approved people-to-people Cuba by Americans that reiterated and to the flats fishery for bonefish, -tar programs, and you can legally go re-reiterated all I have been telling you pon, and permit, we initiated a tagging fishing in Cuba through one of those about travel to Cuba. As this is written, program in 2012 for juvenile tarpon in programs. As I have pointed out re- you can pull up a number of NPR web- conjunction with Tarpon Town guides peatedly, all you have to do, after you site postings on travel to Cuba by typ- in Campeche, Mexico. The mangrove book your trip, is contact Bonefish Tar- ing “NPR Cuba Travel” on the search creeks of Campeche are a fantastic

April 2016 -10- Volume 29, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT habitat for juvenile tarpon, and the in November. He writes: nity. The stand-up paddleboards are region is full of habitats that support “Just checking in with fellow sub- available on a first-come, first-served these juveniles as they grow to sub- scribers on the paddleboard program at basis for our guests. We transfer the adult size. Mangrove Cay Club. Both the equip- paddleboards, the guests, and their “After Raul Castaneda and his ment and the boat used to transport the guide to the inaccessible areas of An- team tagged hundreds of fish there in paddleboards are of excellent quality. dros by boat. There is no extra charge 2012 and 2013, the tagging effort was As previously reported, the boards al- for this opportunity. It is available to suspended as we awaited recaptures. low you to access areas not available to all of our guests and has been enjoyed We had an early recapture, and just flats boats or wading anglers. A typical by guests of all ages.” recently received a very interesting expedition involves an accompanying recapture nearly three and a half years guide on his own board. The areas my „„ And finally, in case you haven’t after the fish was initially tagged. The guide and I fished had plenty of ‘naive’ heard, there has been a major shakeup recaptured fish was actually the first fish averaging 3.5 to seven pounds. We on the Umba and upper Varzuga riv- fish we ever tagged in Campeche (what may have lost about 20 percent of our ers on the Kola Peninsula of Russia. are the odds?). It was caught by angler hooked fish to the mangroves, but it is Seems Roxtons Field Sports, a UK Don Arthur about a mile away from its worth mentioning that these were the booking agent, has taken over from original capture location. It had grown best-sized fish overall I have seen since Salmon Junkies, a Danish booking from 18.5 inches to 29 inches in that the 1980s and the Charlie Era. agent. Our Atlantic salmon editor, Paul time. This growth was much slower Marriner has all the details, starting than we anticipated. With pristine habi- with some background on how Atlantic tats and plenty of food available, why salmon rivers are managed in Russia. the growth rate was so slow is a mys- He writes: tery we are investigating.” “Atlantic salmon rivers in Russia BTT is in the process of mapping are all leased by the government, in juvenile tarpon habitats in Florida, and whole or in part, to Russian compa- it plans to gradually expand that effort nies. Most of these companies sign to other states and countries. And that contracts with Western agents, who is one way Angling Report subscribers are charged with the responsibility of can get involved, Alexandra Lovett- finding clients to fill available rods. In Woodsum says: “We need anglers to cases like this, the Russian company confidentially report where they see ju- is commonly referred to as a ‘Russian veniles under 12 inches so those areas partner.’ A few Russian lessees do their can be mapped. This will help us pri- own booking, to be sure, and a few oritize juvenile habitat most in need of “Operating the paddleboard re- simply hold the lease for themselves protection and restoration. If you know quires fairly decent balancing skills, and their friends, mirroring the situa- of juvenile tarpon habitat that meets and fishing is only possible in low tion that occurs on some North Ameri- this criteria, please e-mail project winds. But it was a great way to break can salmon rivers. In a typical agency manager JoEllen Wilson at jwilson@ up a standard week of fishing from a relationship, a Russian partner is re- bonefishtarpontrust.org. flats boat!” sponsible for operating the facilities, Postscript: At press time, we checked providing guides and anti-poaching op- „„ Continuing subscribers will re- in with Mangrove Cay Club’s Dan erations, and arranging transport to the member our report in the May 2015 is- Vermillion (dan@mangrovecayclub. river. The agent’s responsibility, typi- sue about a new stand-up paddleboard com) to get his take on the new SUP cally, is limited to promoting the river (SUP) program at Mangrove Cay Club program. He writes: “We introduced to clients, though some also invest in in the Bahamas (http://mangrovecay- stand-up paddleboards to expand fish- the facilities. club.com/). The report, by subscriber ing opportunities for our guests. As “With that understood, I will turn Bill Horn, highlighted the ability to any visitor to Andros has experienced, to an analysis of the recent shakeup on reach skinny water that is unreachable there are many flats that are simply too the Umba and upper Varzuga. Seems by boat or wet wading, and it went on shallow to access by boat and others Salmon Junkies, a Danish booking to describe the Mangrove Cay Club’s that are too soft to wade. SUPs allow agent, had three years left on a five- plan to bring in 13.5-foot Dragon Fly our anglers to access these flats and year contract for the Umba and upper Paddleboards for clients to use. The fish areas that were previously inac- Varzuga Rivers. The upper Varzuga news is, we now have an update on cessible. A year into the program, I’m camp is called Grand Varzuga. Steffen that program from subscriber Frank pleased to say that many of our guests Juhl, the principal, has been involved Thompson, who visited Andros Island have taken advantage of this opportu- with salmon fishing on the Kola, in-

April 2016 -11- Volume 29, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT cluding the Umba, for more than 25 “At around this same time, Rox- together makes me very confident of years. He began Salmon Junkies in tons Field Sports, a UK booking agent, the situation. This coming year we will 2008, taking over the Umba sublet at was approached to handle the Umba. book a six-week season on the Umba the same time. Charlie White, a company director, from August 27 to October 8, histori- “Suddenly, this past January 23, tells me he agreed to do so but on the cally the best time to be on the river.’ Juhl wrote a letter to his clients that condition that he would have to look “As for the upper Varzuga camp, read, in part, as follows: “In late fall I after the Umba only, not also the up- the best information I have been able heard a rumour that our Russian part- per Varzuga. Roxtons has considerable to dig out indicates that one week has ner on the Umba and on the Varzuga Kola experience and the Russian part- been taken by a French agent and the was about to sell Umba Lodge to a ner in this case is the same one they’ve remainder will be reserved for friends Russian mining company. I immedi- been in business with for many years and guests of the Russian partner. Ap- ately commenced discussions with on the Varzuga, not to be confused parently, this stretch has always been the Russian landlord, and during the a dicey proposition, as it fishes well following few months, I tried hard to for only about ten days. White had find out whether the rumour was true. this to say about the upper Varzuga: Despite all my efforts to secure a firm ‘Roxtons actually helped finance the future for Salmon Junkies at Umba, I lodge on the Upper Varzuga but after regrettably did not receive assurance several years of operation we walked that the lodge was not about to be sold, away from it and our investment, as nor was I able to get a firm commit- there were just too many disappointed ment to honour the lease. There was a clients.’ real danger, in my view, that the lodge “You can read the full text of would be closed without warning at Roxtons’ announcement about their some time during the season.” availability on the Umba by clicking “The letter went on to say that here: http://www.roxtons.com/fishing/ Salmon Junkies was refunding the de- with the upper Varzuga operation. destinations/europe/russia/umba/ posits on 130 bookings and deciding, White went on to say this in an e-mail: “Clearly, this has been a messy with great regret, to leave the Kola per- ‘We have worked with these Russian situation, but it is hard to fault Salmon manently. The letter concluded with an partners for 25 years, and we have a Junkies for doing what they thought assurance that Salmon Junkies would really good relationship with them. was in the best interest of their clients. continue to operate its very successful Whenever they have given me assur- As for the immediate future of the British Columbia steelhead and salmon ances in the past, they have delivered, Umba under Roxtons’ management, program. You can read the full text of and they have let me know that with their ongoing relationship with the Juhl’s letter here: http://salmonjunkies. Roxtons’ involvement they are go- Russian partner should mitigate client com/articles/salmon-junkies-withdraw- ing to focus much more attention and concerns. Stay tuned for possible up- from-umba/ resources on the Umba. Our history dates.—Paul Marriner.

OUTFITTER CRITIQUES The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly

This section of The Angling Report is based entirely on subscriber-written Fishing Trip Report Forms. Our policy on these forms is to publish excerpts in the newslet- ter of Angler Network Forms as received without censorship. Agents, guides, lodge operators, and/or outfitters who disagree with anything said about them in this section are free to submit a rebuttal. As a subscriber, you can help extend the reach of this program by filing a Fishing Trip Report Form yourself. You should find one inside this issue of your newsletter. Alternately, you can file a report online by going to our website, www.anglingreport.com, and clicking on “File a Report.” For details about how to do custom searches for Angler Network Reports on our website, see page 2 of this issue. „„ Subscriber Larry Hartley recently “Christmas Island is a spectacular his presence on this trip. It is worth returned from Christmas Island and destination, with the potential for re- noting that we experienced some trop- has this to say about the experience. markable fishing. We booked our trip ical storm–force winds on occasion Just be aware that the stormy condi- with Brian Gies of Flywater Travel and it rained every day. Despite this, tions he mentions are almost certainly (http://flywatertravel.com), who was we averaged about three giant trevally due to an ongoing strong El Niño. outstanding and highly professional. (GTs) per day, the largest being about Typically, the weather on Christ- He dealt with every problem we en- 32 pounds, which was the highlight mas Island is predictable and mild: countered, and I completely enjoyed of the trip. The bones were numerous

April 2016 -12- Volume 29, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT but disappointingly small, weighing nearby. That is great fun, and I am inclusive. In the event Eric is booked, about 2 to 4 pounds on average, at sure we will do it again. Armstrong says, he has other great best. The fishing was done by wad- “This past year we started late, guides he can call. Eric also books ing, using a 12 wt TFO rod and Orvis fishing in mid-September, right after weeklong trips and excursions. His Mirage reel for GTs and a mix of 8 the first big cold front came through. single-day rate for 2016 is $500 per and 10 wt rods for bonefish. Most of The front put the fish off, but we day. the GTs were caught using brush flies still managed to catch fish. I fished and a Christmas Island special for streamers one day on the Clark Fork „„ When two experienced anglers bonefish. I would recommend this trip this past year, which I am new to, and come to the same conclusion about to fellow subscribers, but it should be I moved lots of fish but caught only a a trip, it is safe to say their opinion noted that there are no activities for few. My friend nymphed and did well. carries more weight. Case in point, non-anglers. I should add that I rented We had to work hard for our fish that this report by longtime friends Dave a satellite phone from Andy Cool at day. Another day we fished dries on Hardacre and Bill Gordean on their Explorer Satellite Communications the Clark Fork and did okay but not return trip to Lee’s Ferry in Arizona. (www.explorersatellite.com), and I great. We always do better than the They write: received outstanding service. I live in other guides, however. Eric’s poor “Our loosely organized group a rural area and Andy made sure I got day is most guides’ good day. Eric known for many years as the Moose- my phone over the January 1 holiday always goes the extra mile and looks head Flyfishers (after the beer) re- to be sure I could take it with me. I for places to float-fish where there cently fished for three days with totally recommend Andy and his ser- won’t be other guides. We didn’t see Lee’s Ferry Anglers (http://leesferry. vice. com) on the Colorado River below Postscript: Larry gives the cost of his Glen Canyon Dam. Bennett Mintz weeklong trip as $3,000. (whom some of your readers may know) organized the trip for us, but „„ Subscriber Don Armstrong has was not able to join William Gordean, weighed in with a report on a Mon- Steve Burns, Jay and Lisa Bingham tana outfitter he holds in high regard, and me due to a last minute illness Eric Ederer of Renegade Fly Fishing from which he is recovering well. Outfitters. He writes: “Wade fishing was the order of “Every year my friends and I go the day, except for me, as I have two on a fishing trip to Montana in search knee replacements and the river bot- of rainbow and brown trout. One of tom is quite rocky, so I fished from the best parts of the trip is spend- the boats—which are jet-driven here, ing time with guide Eric Ederer of mostly with covered cockpits to help Renegade Fly Fishing Outfitters. We other boats very often. Eric has both you escape the sun. If you do not usually go in August or early Septem- a drift boat and a raft. He uses the wish to wade, there is plenty of cast- ber and start in Missoula where Eric latter to fish rivers with less water. ing room in the stern of one of these lives. Then, we just go day by day de- We bring our own fly rods, and Eric boats or, if you are agile, on the bow. pending on where Eric feels the best provides all the flies. I hate it when “Our group literally hooked and fishing is. guides charge for each fly. Eric is landed more trout than we could “Those who have never fished always prepared for anything. We count or remember. With a couple of in Montana should know that it is a are talking with him about fishing in memorable exceptions noted below, simply spectacular place. Everything Canada next year. Would I go again? the fish were mostly clones in the 10- is big. The rivers are big, the fish are We already have two trips planned inch range, give or take an inch here big, the options are many, and the next year. or there. However, they were bright, beauty is endless. My friends and I Postscript: Armstrong says Renegade feisty fish, and the action was non- consider ourselves dry fly fanatics, Fly Outfitters (www.flyfishmissoula. stop. The notable exceptions were a and our guide Eric knows it. We usu- com/) fishes the Bitterroot, Clark 17-inch fish I blundered onto the first ally fish the Clark Fork or the Bit- Fork, Blackfoot, Rock Creek, Big day just below the dam, and a 21-inch terroot Rivers. We have also fished Hole, Yellowstone, Missouri, plus a beast brown trout taken downriver by Rock Creek and others in the past. bunch of waters that can’t be men- Bill Gordean the last day. The majori- Rock Creek has traditionally been tioned for the sake of privacy. He ty of the fish were caught on nymphs, great in June in prior years. In the says Eric now has a new Nomad Trip with the exception of a few that I past, we have also fly-fished for pike that involves fishing five rivers in tempted with a green . and smallmouth bass in another river five days for $2,650 per person all- “The guides here are knowledge-

April 2016 -13- Volume 29, Number 4 THE ANGLING REPORT able, friendly, and right there when “I just wanted to chime in with a away from the boat ramp. The prob- needed. The one drawback to the couple of additional opinions. Yes, we lem is, they are pretty pricey. trip is that we had to drive from Las indeed caught lots of 10-inch fish on “Finally, the accommodations Vegas to Lee’s Ferry, a long 200-plus our trip, but we also took more than at Cliff Dwellers, where we stayed, mile trip each way that takes four to enough 12- 14- and 15-inch fish. I were very comfortable, and the res- five hours. This was because the con- think wading, rather than fishing from taurant there has a good menu that necting airline went out of business. the boat, has a bit to do with the dif- will keep your stomach from growl- We hope someone fills the void or we ference in our memories here. As for ing for three or four days. There is can find a shorter route into the area. the guides, they were indeed terrific. also a great fly shop on site, which “Anyone planning a trip here, They know the river intimately, and has just about anything a gear head I should note, needs to check with they put us onto fish at every stop. would want, not to mention an enor- Lee’s Ferry Anglers concerning up- They were extremely helpful in teach- mous, reasonably priced fly selection. coming water releases. The dam man- ing us old men a few new nymphing Ultimately, the best part of this area agement authorities do not take into tricks that increased our catch rate. is the stunning landscape—Marble account the plans of fly fishermen in As regards that long drive from Las Canyon, Glen Canyon, and Grand its water release patterns. Vegas, we have been told there is a Canyon itself, with its high, multi- “On another matter, one of our somewhat faster drive from Phoenix colored walls and amazing wildlife. Moosehead Flyfishers, Bill Gordean, rather than Las Vegas. Next year, I often missed takes because I just asked to add a comment to this report. most of us will try that route. There couldn’t take my eyes off of all the Bill took the trophy for largest fish of are still a couple of major scheduled glorious scenery. Fishing Lee’s Ferry the trip with his 21-inch brown. He airlines that fly into Page, Arizona, is a tough job, but someone has to do writes: by the way, which is only a half hour it.”

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April 2016 -16- Volume 29, Number 4