Serving Wine Like a Master Sommelier by Eddie Osterland, M.S
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Wine, Dine, Taste, & Tour Serving Wine Like a Master Sommelier by Eddie Osterland, M.S. ~ America’s First Master Sommelier Wines are made for the purpose of “provoking pleasure.” The ap- preciation of wine requires that we measure the amount of pleasure each wine provokes. Some wines provoke more pleasure than oth- ers, and this is always reflected in the price one pays for the wine. We begin by analyzing the aro- matics (aroma/bouquet) with our nose, and tasting on our palate follows. Really fine wines reveal themselves with ethereal aromat- ics that are always followed with equally impressive, long- lasting flavors. Not all wines were created equal. Less expensive wines are suited for simple dining experiences, while more expensive wines lend themselves to special occasions and people who understand ................................................................ fine wines. Just like the wines, those friends and clients whom we choose I’d like to share with you my philosophy on how one invests to entertain come in different flavors. Not everyone is equally in wine for power entertaining. I will refer to the diagram experienced with wine, and this is where the fun comes in— below, which is titled “The 3 B’s of Wine Hierarchy.” teaching them something by creating an experience with food and wine. Start them with simple (Beverage) wine and, as their experience develops, bring them up a notch to Better Complex Need Aging and, if merited, BEST! BEST Focus of Attention $$$ BETTER Fruity Ideal Restaurant Wines POWER TOOLS $$ Ready-to-drink Savory Keeping within my theme of power entertaining, you need BEVERAGE to have some power tools. To create an experience that goes Simple everyday $ beyond your guests’ expectations, power tools arm you with those subtle distinctions that set you apart. Wine Where Consumed Reasons I enjoy entertaining with wine from each of the three quality Best At home Wine becomes center of attention; food Complex At some restaurants should be chosen to show off the wine; food levels seen in the diagram. As the wines continue to increase Intense should be ample, yet subordinate to wine. in value, I like to make sure that my guests can experience $$$$ them to their fullest expression. The following are among the Better Special meals at As dining experience hightens, so does items you need to seriously entertain with wine: Fruity home when importance of wine and food, which serve as Savory entertaining partners having equal importance. Ideal as $$ “restaurant” wines, being moderately priced Glassware and integrating well with the food menu. The pleasure of enjoying wines starts with the glass. You need Beverage In restaurants In this case, food is more important than to have sufficient glassware. For those of you who have expe- Simple On picnics the wine, which serves essentially to wash it $ With daily meals down; ideally suited to serve as restaurant rienced my power entertaining dinner event, you know that I In Restaurants house wines. always serve two wines, side-by-side, for taste comparisons. I :24 :25 call this the “intellectual component” where you can teach your guests something about different wine styles (Or- egon Pinot Noir vs. California Pinot Noir). For example, if you entertain six people and choose to serve them in this fashion, you will need two glasses per person (12 glasses). I suggest you have a dozen white, red, and tulips for bubbles. As I’ve mentioned, when wines progress in price, I feel that the host should upgrade the quality of glassware for maxi- mum appreciation. Simple wines need simple glassware; complex wines deserve complex glasses. My choice of glassware is Riedel, the Rolls-Royce of fine crystal glassware (www.riedel.com). The correct pronun- ciation of this brand is easy: it rhymes with “needle.” Riedel has an unbelievably vast collection of superb wine glasses from which to choose. How much to spend on wine glasses? A good rule of thumb is to spend about as much on the glass as you spend on the bottle of wine. Here is what I use: For Best: Riedel’s Sommeliers Collection For Better: Riedel’s Vinum Collection For Beverage: Riedel’s Ouverture collection a fine decanter with one of those speedy wine funnels that everyone gave you in your Christmas stocking. You should not be in a hurry; take the time to decant. No Master Sommelier would dare to use one of these devices at your table. Using a decanter contributes the added dimension of theater. Riedel also makes the best decanters. My favorite is their Cornetto because of its impeccable balance. Drink, Don’t Dry! • Use your fine crystal glassware and decanters tonight and wash them tomorrow. You will lower the kill rate on your stems 20 percent. • Polish your glasses each time before putting them away. Use a micro fiber cloth (no lint). That way, they are ready for use on demand. Water spots are not acceptable. • Have several glass wine bottle coasters handy to keep from soiling a white tablecloth. Your bottles may collect dust and dirt as your hobby grows and as your collection of wines ages. Riedel makes some lovely glass bottle coasters. Power tools arm you with those subtle distinctions that set you apart. If you don‘t have them, you’re simply not in the game! Eddie Osterland, M.S., is a nationally acclaimed speaker on food and wine and was the first American to receive the Master Sommelier certification. For the last 25 years, he has worked with event, meeting planners and hosts to customize corporate and private Decanters parties and special occasions, adding his own unique Always decant your red wines. Decanting a wine allows it to touch and perspective to create unforgettable culinary experiences. His clients have included General Mills, open up and breathe. Decanting also allows the sediment to American Express, Morgan Stanley Smith Barney, and fall to the bottom, allowing you to pour the wine unfettered. Procter & Gamble. (www.eddieosterland.com) Allow at least one hour to decant. Do not substitute using :26 Master Sommeliers GermanLove Riesling with food. by Eddie Osterland, M.S. ~ America’s First Master Sommelier ................................................................................... German Riesling is one of the most interesting, versatile, and coined from the Kloster Eberbach in the Rheingau, where monks misunderstood grape varietals in the world. The incorrect general used to store reserve wines in the cellar “Kabinett.” Aging Poten- consensus is that all Riesling comes in blue bottles and is sweet tial: 3–5 years (min 17 Bx). Bx or Brix is the sugar in the grape and simple. In fact, in a recent poll of Master Sommeliers, German at harvest. For Germany, there is a minimum level required at Riesling was overwhelmingly chosen as the favorite “desert island” harvest for each Prädikat classification. white wine, thanks to its bracing acidity levels. For too long, German Riesling has been relegated to the bottom shelves of grocery stores across America. But now, its time has come…again. Here is a brief synopsis of what you need to know to power entertain with German Riesling. If you want to delve deeper, take a look at this website, which is a company dedicated to the “dry-style” Rieslings. They have it all! (www.trulyfinewine.com) 2. Spätlese: Means late harvest, made from late-picked grapes (7–12 days past the Kabinett) that are fully ripe with greater QbA (Qualitätswein – Quality Wine): This is the common clas- intensity and strength. Built dry to fully sweet (alc. 8–13.5%), with sification for basic wines in Germany. They range from Blue Nun a bigger body and more pronounced concentration of fruit. Aging to higher quality estate fruit wines from well-known producers. Potential: 7–15+ years (min 18.4 Bx). The main difference in this category is that this level will allow for chaptalization, which is the addition of sugar during fermentation to increase alcohol and enhance flavor. Prädikatswein (distinct wine, formerly known as QmP): This is the higher quality level of wine production, and these wines do not allow chaptalization. They must be produced 100% naturally from the grape and have a hierarchy based on ripeness level at harvest, which is explained below. 3. Auslese: Selected harvest, made from very ripe grapes har- vested in select bunches. Rich intensity and only made in the best warm years when botrytis (a beneficial mold) can start to set in. Increased labor contributes to higher prices. Much fuller and loaded with tropical fruit aromas, balanced acidity, and exceptional as entry-level dessert wines but can also be done dry. Aging Poten- 1. Kabinett: Picked during normal harvest, lighter bodied wine, tial: 25–40+ years (min 19.9 Bx). lower in alcohol (7–12%), and usually dry or semi-dry. Term :28 4. Beerenauslese: Berry select harvest, rare and costly due to high labor. Usually affected by botrytis (20–80%). Deep, honeyed, raisin richness. Aging Potential: 60+ years (min 25.8 Bx). ................................................................................. 5. Trockenbeerenauslese: Dry, berry select harvest. Richest, sweet- • They work extremely well with fish and seafood since the high est, rarest, and most expensive. Only made in exceptional years. levels of natural acidity act as a stunt double for lemon. Experience difficulty in fermenting and are usually 6–9% alcohol. Incredible richness and character. Aging potential: 80+ years • They also work great with heartier proteins like pork, veal, (min 33.9 Bx). chicken, and game. Don’t be afraid to try them against a rich sauce preparation either. • It is not uncommon in Germany to serve wild boar or venison over a homemade Spätzle and hunter sauce—with a dry Riesling. • We only suggest avoiding spicy foods, which are covered below Sweet Riesling Food Pairing: Classic pairings for sweet Rieslings 6.