421 INDE X a Abakh Hoja Tomb 325 Abbottabad 245-9, 246

© Lonely Planet Publications 420 421 Index

A Saidu Sharif 209-12, 210 Barikot 213 Abakh Hoja Tomb 325 Taxila 88-90, 89 Barpu Glacier 353 Abbottabad 245-9, 246 architecture 53-4 Barsat 284 accommodation 364-6 area codes, see inside front cover Barsin 263 activities 366, see also individual army 34-6 Basant 110 activities arts 52-6, see also individual arts Basha Dam 265 acute mountain sickness (AMS) Artush 330 Basho 286 341, 400 Ashoka, Emperor 237, 249-50 Basho Valley 291-2 Afghan border 154 Ashoka Rocks 249-50 Batagram 256-7 INDEX Afghan refugees 46 Askur Das 306 bathrooms 377-8 Afiyatabad (New Sost) 314-15, 314 Astor Valley 268-70, 269 Batrik 232, 344 AIDS 398 Astor village 268 Battakundi 255 air pollution 70 Athmaqam 185 Batura Glacier 356-7, 7 air travel 382-3 ATMs 373 bazaars 376, 6 airlines 382-3 Avdegar 355-6, 355 Bazira 213 airports 382-3 Avgarch 313-14 begging 50 tickets 383 Awami League 32 Begum Shah Mosque 105 to/from Pakistan 383-5 Ayub National Park 80 Besham 258-9, 258 to/from the KKH 394 Azad Jammu & Kashmir 181-6, 182 Beyal 349 within Pakistan 388-9 earthquake 183 Bhitai, Shah Abdul Latif 52, 176 Akbar 27 Bhong Mosque 126-7 Akbari Mosque 179 B Bhurban 92-3 Alai Valley 259-61, 260 Baba Ghundi Ziarat 316 Bhutto, Benazir 35, 39, 51 alcohol 60 Baba Wali Kandahari 90 Bhutto family 38-9 Alexander the Great 26 Babur 27 Bhutto, Zulfiqar Ali 38, 39 Ali Masjid 200 Babusar Pass 255-6, 267 bicycle travel, see cycling Aliabad 298-9 Badshahi Mosque 103-5 bird-watching 66 All-India Muslim League 29-30 Bagh 186 Birir Valley 233 Allergological Asthma Resort Bagrot Valley 271-2, 271 Birmogh Lasht 227-8 138 Bahawalpur 121-5, 122 Biyabari 347 Altit Fort 305 Bahrain 215-16 boating 167, 366, 4 altitude sickness 400 baksheesh 373 Boibar Valley 313 Aminabad 313 Bala Hisar Fort 194 Bolan Pass 153 Anarkali 106 Balakot 253 books Andra Fort 309 Balanguru 231-2 cooking 58 animals 65-7, see also individual Baloch people 37, 44-5 health 397 animals Balochistan 139-56, 141 history 32, 34, 38, 40 endangered species 66-7 Balti 405-6 literature 53 Anish 232 Baltistan 284-94, 361-3, 285 politics 31, 32, 34, 38, 40 Archaeological Museum of Balochistan Baltit, see Karimabad travel 17-18 (Quetta Museum) 145 Baltit Fort 300, 301 wildlife 66 archaeological sites Baltoro Glacier trek 362 border ceremony 120 Banbhore 174-5 Banbhore 174-5 border crossings 385-8 Ha Noi 330 Bangladesh 31-2 Borit Lake 309, 312 Harappa 134-5 Banjosa 186 Brahui people 45 Lower Swat 213 Bannu 203 British East India Company 28 Makli Hill 175 Bar Palas 262 British Raj buildings 166 Mardan Plain 205-6 Bar Valley 295-6 British rule 28-9 Mehrgarh 153-4 bargaining 374 Brun 232 Moenjodaro 176-9, 178 Bari Imam Shrine 79 Bualtar Glacier 353 INDEX Chalt 295-6, 293 Chakhchun Chakdara 217-18 Chaghbin 228 NationalPark Central Karakoram carpets 55-6 car travel camping 365 C business hours366-7, bus travel 406-7 Burushaski Burawai 255 Buni 233 Bundiwalum 346 Bunar Das267 Bumboret Valley 232-3 Dobey321 Bulunkul Buddhist sites Bubulimating 305 422 Changa Manga Wildlife Reserve 121 Wildlife Reserve Changa Manga Chaman 154 000 000 68, 286 390-1 within Pakistan 386 to/from Pakistan rental 390 on theKKH394 hire 390-1 driver 389-90 within Pakistan 387 to/from Pakistan on theKKH393-4 Zarai 200 Udegram 213 Caves330 Three-Immortals Taxila 88-9 206 Takht-i-Bahi Shigar 292 Shatial 263 206 Garhi Shahbaz 210-11 Saidu Sharif Sacred RocksatHunza306 Peshawar 191 176 Khas Mirpur Smats206-7 Kashmir 206 Jamal Garhi Gilgit region 280 Ghaligai Buddha213 Chilas 267 Chakdara 217-18 front cover

Photograph pages pages Map Index (B-E) 297 see also

inside Chilas 265-7, 186 Chikar 174 Chaukundi Chattar Plain265 283 Chatorkhand Chashi 283 Charsadda 207 Chapursan Valley 315-16, Chaprot Valley 295 Channan Pir 126 126 Channan Mela Chitral Town222-7, Chitral GolNationalPark 68-9,228 Chitral Festival 370 Darel 263-5 Dar 272 dangers 16-17, 369 Dandai 258 dance 55 77-9 Daman-e-Koh Dainyor 280-2 Dadar 256 D cycling 366,385,389 customs regulations 367-9 culture 41-57 56-7 cricket credit cards374 costs 17 corruption 50-2 consulates 370 computer repairs 117 clothing 381 climate 15-16,367, cinema 53 108-9 Chughtai Museum 108 Chughtai, Abdur Rahman Chowa Daravalley262 Cholistan 125-6 Choar 260 220-34, Chitral district 271 Chirah 317 Highway China–Pakistan Rd317 China Friendship 343 Chimirsan Ghari children, travel with367 child labour50 trekking 341-6 trekking people 190 safety 393 on theKKH392-3 toIslamabad 242-4 Kashgar ValleyBabusar Pass 255 &Kaghan 337 trekking 266 368 223 221 6 Dir district 217-20, Dir district Dih 317 digital photography375 400 diarrhoea 126 Derawar Fort (DeraNawab) Dera NawabSahib 203-4 (DIKhan) Dera IsmailKhan 133-4 (DGKhan) Dera GhaziKhan Deosai PlainsNationalPark 69 Deosai Plains291 dengue fever 397 dehydration 401 deforestation 69-70 Defence Mosque HousingAuthority 397 deep veinthrombosis(DVT) Davdar 318 106 Bakhsh Data Ganj Dasu 262 202-3 Darra AdamKhel Darkot 283 Dut 313 Durand Line32,37,189 305 Duikar Dubair Valley 261 drugs 51,196,369 Drosh 222 email, 365 electricity repairs 117 electrical Mosque131 Eidgah 206 ofAshoka Edicts Edhi Foundation161 Edhi, Abdul Sattar 161 Edara 320 economy 49-52 64,183 earthquakes E driving, 60 drinks dress 43 Donson Pass 344-5, 342 Doni Ghari Doni An342-3 disabilities, travellerswith378 Diran Peak 272 Dir town218-19, etiquette 43 erosion 70 environmental issues65,69-70 70 energy shortage emergencies, embassies 370 126 (Masjid-i-Tuba) 166-7 see see internetaccess cartravel see insidefront cover 219 208 344 festivals 370-1 Faqir family106 Faiz AhmedFaiz 52-3 Faisalabad 136-7 Fairy 267,348-9, Meadow Fa Hsien257 F events, forts 134 Munro Fort foreigner’s registration 378 food 58-62,371 fishing 366 film 53 exchange rates, urs of Data Ganj Bakhsh Hajveri Hajveri Bakhsh urs ofDataGanj 152 Sibi Mela Shandur Pass 276 Shandur Cup(PoloFestival) 370 371 Ramazan Nauroz (Navrus)370 Chiraghan110 Mela 231 Kalasha Islamic 371 Eid-ul-Fitr 371 (Adha)371 Eid-ul-Azha 371 Eid-Milad-un-Nabi Chitral 222,370 126 Channan Mela Basant 110 FestivalBaisakhi 90 Mir Chakar’s Fort 153 Fort Chakar’s Mir Qila) 102-3, (Shahi Fort Lahore Kot Diji180 134 Khar 218 Katkala 288 Fort Karpochu Darchi361 Kalam 200 Jamrud Fort 126 Derawar Fort 224-5 Chitral Fort 265 Chilas Fort 300, Baltit Fort 194 Fort Bala Hisar 309 Andra Fort 305 Altit Fort travellers61 vegetarian restaurants 60-1 Hunza 304 glossary 62 etiquette 43 customs 61 103 110 see festvials see insidefrontcover 301 348 fundamentalism 47-8 Ghulmet 297, Village309 Ghulkin 292 Ghowari 92-3 Ghora Dhaka Ghizar 283-4 Ghez 321 of237 Ghazni, Mahmud Ghashumaling 295 Ghaligai Buddha213 geology 64 geography 63-5 237 Khan Genghis gay travellers371-2 Glacier346 Gazin 346 Gashuchi 272 Gargoh Chashma228 Garam 306 Ganish 26,27,88,188,191, Gandhara the92-3 Galis, 283 Gakuch beach174 Gaddani G glaciers 36 glacial warfare Gittidas 256 275 Gilgit Uprising Gilgit town272-80, Gilgit region 263-84, giardiasis 400 Tashkurgan 318-19 Fort 120 Sheikhupura 213 Fort Shahi 200 Fort Shahgai 175 (Hyderabad)Fort Makkai Shah 176 Sharif Sehwan 137-8 Rohtas Fort 184 Fort Red 176 Fort Ranikot 129-30 Qasim BaghFort 220 Naghar Fort 184 Fort Muzaffarabad 205-6, 207 Raikot Glacier348 Raikot Passu Glacier311 Pakora Glacier351 Glacier313 Mulungutti Gulmit Glacier 309 Glacier346 Gazin Bualtar Glacier353 Batura Glacier356-7, Barpu Glacier353 Baltoro Glacier362 298 273 264 7 Gojal 307-17, global warming65 Gulmit 308-10, Gulagmuli 284 Gujars 240 guesthouses 366 Guchesham 357 Grom 231-2 176 Great TharDesert Great the30 Game, government resthouses 365 345 Gomenah Golpigol 346 golden marmot66 Gol 292 An342 Gokhshal Hazarganji-Chiltan NationalParkHazarganji-Chiltan Hazara 244-57, Havelian 245 Hasan Abdal90 245 Haripur Harappa 134-6 Haramosh Valley 271, 150 Hanna Lake 55 handicrafts Halmat 185 175 Haleji Lake Halal 61 haggling 374 Ha Noi330 H gurdwaras Gupis 283 guns 51,196 Gulmit Glacier309 health 395-402 heroin 51 hepatitis 398 Gwadar 156 Guru Nanak90,121 Guru 233 Tarashing Glacier270 Siachen Glacier36,293 Shani Glacier351 trekking 355-61 trekking 150-1 Gurdwara JanamasthanNankana websites 397 vaccinations 396 341 trekking insurance 395-6 diseases 397-400 105 Gurdwara ofArjanDev 121 Index (E-H) 308 309 245 , 311 271

423 INDEX INDEX Hyderabad 175-6 Hussaini 311 Hushe Valley 293-4 Hunza Valley 294, Hunza 294-307,349-54, Hund 207 Humbrok 293,362-3, Hudood Ordinance47 Houbara bustard67 Hotan 330 228 hot springs 275 horse trekking Hoper 307 Hon Pass 354 holidays 372 Hodur 265 HIV 398 hitching 391 history 26-40 Latrek 362 Hispar 120 Minar Hiran National ParkHingol 154-5 154-5 Hinglaj range63,64 Hindukush sites Hindu Harai 347 Hinarche Stations 185-6 Hill 424 Independence 29-31 Ilyasi Mosque247 Mosque 325 Id Kah I 000 000 Partition 29-31 Partition 27 Mughals military rule34-6 26 Mauryas Kushans 26 32-4 Kashmir 237-9 Highway Karakoram internet resources 28 Indus civilisation26 Independence 29-31 contemporary 40 the28-9 British, books 32,34,38,40 Bangladesh 31-2 138 Ketas Smats206-7 Kashmir Hasan Abdal90 (Tharparkar Great TharDesert

Photograph pages pages Map Desert) 176 Desert) Index (H-K) 5 362 295 Indus Kohistan257-63, Indian wildass65 28 Indian Uprising itineraries 19-25 itineraries Ismailis 310 Jagran Nala185 Jaglot 268 J Islamabad 71-93, Islam 41,46-8,238 Ishkoman 283 Irshad Pass 316 49 Iqbal, BegumSarfraz Iqbal, Allama Mohammed 29,52,105 internet resources 18 internet access372 insurance 372 Indus Valley civilisation177,180 dolphin65,67 Indus River trekking 25,332-4 trekking &mosques 24 shrines PassKhyber &theGrandTrunk toSwat23 Highway Karakoram 20 Highway Karakoram Gilgit toChitral&theKalasha Chitral toPeshawar 24 travel within87-8 travel to/from86-7 information77 tourist shopping 85-6 73 medical services internet access73 history 72 food 83-4 85 drinking 77-9 attractions 80 activities accommodation 80-3 Sunnis 46 Sufism 47 Shiites 46 radical Islam47-8 Ismailis 310 holy days371 history 27,28 wildlife 67 news 28 history 26,35 health 397 environment 68 383 air tickets health 395-6 Road 19 valleys 22 72 , 74-5 257 joshanda MohammedAli29,151 Jinnah, Jhelum Valley 185-6 Jhelum 137 Jhandrot 283 jewellery 56 Tomb108 Jehangir’s 200 Jamrud Fort alSadiq122 Jami Masjid 206 Jamal Garhi Jalalabad 271 Karimabad (Baltit)299-305, Karimabad Nala280 Kargah Buddha280 Kargah Kashgar 322-30, Kashgar 288 Fort Karpochu 292 Karphok (KKH)235-330, Highway Karakoram 159-73, Karachi Kul320-1 Kara Valley 263 Kandia 309 Kamaris 154 Kalat valleys228-33, Kalasha people45-6,228-30 Kalasha Darchi361 Kalam 216-17 Kalam Valley 251-5,267, Kaghan 254 Kaghan 291 Lake Kachura 57 kabbadi K safety 237,240-1 people 239-40 20,23 itineraries history 237-9 geology 64 internet access322 food 327-8 324-6 attractions accommodation 326-7 236 travel within173 travel to/from172-3 information164 tourist shopping 171-2 161 medical services internet access161 171 entertainment 171 drinking Beach167 Clifton 164-7 attractions 167-8 activities accommodation 168-70 , 106 7 162-3 317 , 323 , 165 229 252 299 Kundyak An345, 185 Kundal Shahi Kulalai 216 232 Krakal Kotli 186 Kot Diji180 Komila 262 Koksil 317 Kohistani 407-8 Kohat 203 316 Kirmin Rudyard29,107 Kipling, PassKilik 360-1 316 Kil Village313 Khyber 202 Railway Khyber PassKhunjerab 307-17, NationalParkKhunjerab 69,317 407 Khowar 138 Khewra khattak 292-3 Khaplu 254 Khanian Nusrat Khan, Fateh Ali54 General Khan, Mohammed Yayha 34 General Khan, Ayub 34 AQ38 Khan, 283 Lake Khalti 138 Ketas 292 Keris 185 Kel 320 Kekyor Valley 262 Kayal 253 Kawai Smats206-7 Kashmir 32-4, Kashmir Lahore 96-119, Lahore Lady Finger 305 L PassKhyber 200-2, 214 Khwazakhela 154 Khuzdar activities 109 activities accommodation 110-13 itineraries 19 itineraries 64 earthquake & Kashmir travel within329-30 travel to/from328-9 information323-4 tourist shopping 328 safety 324 permits 323 322 medical services 55 seealso 98 344 , 100 8 Azad Jammu Azad 308 , 8 , 317 Lahore Fort (Shahi Qila)102-3, (Shahi Fort Lahore literature 52-3, Liachar Nala267 lesbian travellers371-2 legal matters372-3 Leepa Valley 186 270 Latobah language 403-13 Langar Valley 284 Landi Kota201 Lal SuhanraNationalPark 69,125 lakes 254 SaifulMulk Lake Lulusar 255 Lake Dudipat255 Lake Lukkay Gutte(Asota)207 Lukkay PassLowari 219-20 Loralai 155 Madyan 214-15, Madyan 222 Madaglasht National ParkMachiara 185 M travel within119-20 travel to/from117-19 information101 tourist shopping 116-17 Old City105-6 99 medical services the106-8 Mall, internet access97-9 food 113-15 festivals 110 116 entertainment 115-16 drinking 102-9 attractions 106 Anarkali food vocabulary62 185 Lake Subri 290-1 Satpara Lake 352-63 Rush Phari Sar185 Gali Rati 268-9 Lake Rama 351 Naltar Lake 176 Lake Manchhar 254 SaifulMulk Lake Lulusar 255 Lake Dudipat255 Lake 283 Lake Khalti Kul320-1 Kara 291 Lake Kachura 150 Hanna Lake 175 Haleji Lake 309,312 Lake Borit travel 17-18 see also 215

books 103 Mingora 209-12, Mingora 105 Minar-i-Pakistan 298, Minapin military rule34-6 checkpoint201 Michni Mohajir QuamiMovement (MQM) Moenjodaro 176-9, 180 Moenjodaran Script mobile phones377 316-17 Misgar 186 Mirpur 153 Fort Chakar’s Mir Valley 318 Mintaka Pass 360-1 Mintaka 397, medical services measles 399 ofBibiJawindi127 Mausoleum 234 Mastuj PeakMasherbrum 293 ValleyMarghazar 214 PassMargalla 88 NationalPark Hills 79 Margalla maps 373 mosques 313 Morkhun monsoon 16 money 17,369,373-5, Mohajirs 36,45 conversions, metric 286 Mendi 153-4 Mehrgarh 204-5, Mardan Polosheep67 Marco Mansehra 249-51, Mansehra Island167 Manora 216 Khwar Mankial 186 Reservoir Mangla 174 Manghopir 408-9 Mandarin 176 Lake Manchhar 398-9 malaria Jabba213-14 Malam Pass 207 Malakand the155-6 Makran, 175 Hill Makli ofGhazni237 Mahmud Mosque194 Khan Mahabat cover front cover 36-7 336-7 trekking Begum Shah Mosque105 Begum Shah Mosque 103-5 Badshahi 200 Ali Masjid Mosque179 Akbari Index (K-M) 298 204 209 250 seeinsidefront 178 see also see also health

inside

425 INDEX INDEX Multan 128-33, Multan 40 mujaheddin 27 Mughals Mountbatten, Lord Louis 30 mountains Mt Kongur320 Mt Ilam214 motorcycle travel (PearlMoti Masjid Mosque)102 mosques 426 Murree 91-2 Murree 000 000 Tupopdan 310 Ultar 353-5 Chhish) 353 Spantik (Ganesh Shimla Peak 247 Shani 351 Rush Peak 353 351,352 Rakaposhi Nanga Parbat (Diamir) 268-70, Ata320 Muztagh PeakMukshpuri 93 Mt Kongur320 151 Mt Khalifat PeakMiranjani 93 PeakMasherbrum 293 Lady Finger 305 Dior294 Kampire Haramosh 268,271 Dobani 268 Diran Peak 272 Bubulimating 305 390-1 within Pakistan 386 to/from Pakistan on theKKH394 (GoldenMosque) Masjid Sunehri (GrandMosque)225 Masjid Shahi Mosque175 Jahan Shah FaisalShah Mosque77 (PearlMoti Masjid Mosque)102 105 Mosque ofWazirKhan Mosque194 Khan Mahabat alSadiq122 Jami Masjid Ilyasi Mosque247 Mosque325 Id Kah etiquette 43 Mosque131 Eidgah Mosque Defence HousingAuthority Bhong Mosque126-7

Photograph pages pages Map 346 105 (Masjid-i-Tuba) 166-7 Index (M-P) continued 129 Muztagh Ata320 Muztagh 184 Fort Muzaffarabad 183-4 Muzaffarabad music 53 33-4, 35 President Pervez Musharraf, museums national parks68-9 164 ofPakistan National Museum Nathiagali 93 Naran 254-5 Nanga Parbat (Diamir)268-70,346 Naltar Valley 281-2, Nagyr village307 Nagyr 294-307,349-54 guesthouse220 Naghar Fort N qawwali 104 Taxila 88-9 Swat 210 153 Sibi Museum Peshawar 194 166 Museum Maritime Pakistan 80 ArmyMuseum Pakistan AirForce(PAF)Pakistan Museum 164 ofPakistan National Museum Moenjodaro 179 204-5 Mardan 77 Lok VirsaMuseum 107 Museum Lahore Dur232 Kal’as’a Harappa 135 308 Gulmit CulturalMuseum ofPakistan Survey Geological Faqir 106 Museum Khana Defence Mosque HousingAuthority Command &StaffCollegeMuseum 108-9 Chughtai Museum ofArchaeology& Chitral Museum Chakdara 218 Banbhore 174 123 Museum Bahawalpur of Archaeological Museum Deosai PlainsNational Park 69 Chitral GolNational Park 68-9,228 NationalPark Central Karakoram Ayub National Park 80 166 145 Museum (Masjid-i-Tuba) 166-7 145 Ethnology 225 145 Balochistan (QuettaMuseum) 68, 286 281 North-West FrontierProvince North-West Nimogram 213 Nilt 297 Nichagh 346 32 Niazi, General newspapers 52,365 Neelam village185 Neelam Valley 185 Nauroz (Navrus)370 passes Pashtuns 37-8, 44,190 Pashto 409-10 29-31 Partition Paras 254 Panjnad Head 128 Pamiri 359-60 Palas Valley 262 Pakpattan 136 Pakora Pass 350-1, Development Tourism Pakistan Monument77 Pakistan 80 ArmyMuseum Pakistan painting 54-5 P 271 Oshikandas O 79 Nurpur Shahan 108 Nur Jahan nuclear weapons38 Areas 238-9 Northern 187-234, Shandur-Hundrup NationalPark 284 NationalPark Hills 79 Margalla NationalParkMachiara 185 Lal SuhanraNationalPark 69,125 NationalParkKhunjerab 69,317 National ParkHingol 154-5 NationalParkHazarganji-Chiltan Margalla PassMargalla 88 Pass 207 Malakand PassLowari 219-20 PassKilik 360-1, PassKhunjerab 307-17, Irshad Pass 316 Hon Pass 354 Gojal 307-17 Donson Pass 344-5, Bolan Pass 153 Babusar Pass 251,255-6 KKH 238 Corporation 378 safety 189,203 150-1 188 350 360 344 308 Punjab 94-138, Punial 283 public holidays 372 protected areas 68-9, protected 50 poverty pottery 56 375-6 postal services population 42-6 186 Poonch district polo 275,276, pollution 69-70,400 politics 12,26-40,47-8 poetry 52-3 plants 67-8 planning 15-18,369 Pishmal 216 Pirali 318 photography 375 phonecards 377 Phander 283-4 Petroglyphs 267 Peshawar 190-200, permits 378-9 people 42-6 Pattan 261, Patriata 92 Passu Ghar312 Passu 310-13, Punjabis 44 201 national parks trekking 331 trekking 19-25 itineraries holidays 372 health 395-7 travel within200 travel to/from198-9 information193 tourist Old City193-4 193 medical services internet access193 food 197-8 193-6 attractions accommodation 196-7 337 trekking valleys225 Kalasha Balochistan 140 181 Jammu &Kashmir Azad 220 Chitral district Thui An345-6, Shangla Pass 214 Shandur Pass 284 Pakora Pass 350-1, Pass 360-1, Mintaka history 95 261 7 311 95 345 191 see also 350 , 360 192

, 195 ,

Rawalpindi 71-93, Rawalpindi Sar185 Gali Rati 316 Raminj 61,371 (Ramadan) Ramazan 268-9 Lake Rama Bazaar79-80 Rajah 267 Bridge Raikot 32,35,36 SheikMujibur Rahman, Baba194-6 Rahman Yar 126-7 Rahim Khan radio 365 rabies 399 R Quetta 142-50, 164-6 Mausoleum Quaid-i-Azam qawwali 104 Qasim, Mohammed bin 27 129-30 Qasim BaghFort Q religion 46-8 registration 378 refugees 37,44,46 184 Fort Red travel within150 travel to/from149 information144-5 tourist shopping 148-9 144 medical services internet access144 food 147-8 148 entertainment 148 drinking 145 attractions 145-6 activities accommodation 146-7 Sunnis 46 Sufism 47 Shiites 46 Ismailis 310 Islam 41,46-8, 238 Buddhism 26,188-9,237 travel within87-8 travel to/from86-7 information77 tourist shopping 85-6 73 medical services internet access73 history 72 food 84-6 85 entertainment 85 drinking 79-80 attractions 80 activities accommodation 80-3 143 77 , 78 Rush Peak 353 Rupal Valley 270 Rumbur Valley 231-2 130 Rukn-i-Alam, Sheikh 137-8 Rohtas Fort 179-80 Rohri rockfall 369 restaurants 60-1 316 Reshit Shandur Cup(PoloFestival) 222, 77 Shakarparian 270 Shaigiri (GrandMosque)225 Masjid Shahi 200 Fort Shahgai 206 Garhi Shahbaz Mosque175 Jahan Shah FaisalShah Mosque77 Bulleh52 Shah, 176 Sharif Sehwan sea crossings385-8 65,67,69 Schaller, DrGeorge 290-1 Satpara Lake Sassi 286 Sarykol Pamir 321 142,153,154 Sandeman, Robert the138 Salt Range, salt mines138 salinity 70 safety 16-17,369 S Shandur-Hundrup National Park 209-12, Saidu Sharif Saidpur village79 135 Sahiwal Sharda 185 Sharan 254 121 Sharakpur Sharif 213 Shankardara Shangla Pass 214 Shandur Pass 276,284 370 women travellers380 339-40 trekking Sindh 159 Quetta 145 Punjab 96 NWFP 189 102 Lahore KKH 237,240-1 hitching 391 cycling 393 Balochistan 140 181 Jammu &Kashmir Azad 284 Index (P-S) 210

427 INDEX INDEX shrines 179 Mubarak ofMau Shrine Jamal104 ofBabaShah Shrine shopping 376, Shogran 253 Shishi Valley 222 ship graveyard174 256 Shinkiari Shina 410-11 Shimshal village313 Shimshal Valley 313, Shigar 291-2 Sherqila 283 316 Sher-e-Sabz 347 Shelakui Shatial 263 Nawaf39 Sharif, family38-9 Sharif 428 000 000 Ziarat of Mian Abdul Hakim 151 Abdul Hakim Ziarat ofMian 167 Gazi Shah Ziarat ofAbdullah 136 Tomb ofFarid Ganj Shakar Saif-ud-Din ofSheikh Shrine Sarwar134 ofSarkhi Shrine 179 Mubarak ofMau Shrine BazQalandar ofLalShah Shrine 127 ofJalaluddinBukhari Shrine Bakhsh ofDataGanj Shrine Jamal104 ofBabaShah Shrine &MosqueofJalaluddin Shrine Ranjit Samadhi ofMaharaja Saidu Baba211 Ziarat316 Panja Shah 90 Panja Sahib 79 Nurpur Shahan ofSultanAliAkbar130 Mausoleum ofSheikh Mausoleum ofShams-ud-Din Mausoleum ofBibiJawindi127 Mausoleum ofBaha-ud-Din Mausoleum 174 Manghopir 105 Gurdwara ofArjanDev 79 ImamShrine Bari Baba GhundiZiarat316

Photograph pages pages Map Ghazrooni 127-8 176 106 Hajveri 127 Bukhari Surkh Singh 105 Rukn-i-alam 130 130 Sabzwari 130 Zakaria Index (S-T) 6 5 Sindh 157-80, 271 Sinakkar Silk Road237-8 296-7 Sikanderabad 153 Sibi Museum 152 Sibi Mela Sibi 152-3 Siachen Glacier36,293 Shutinbar Nala296 Shuthmarg 316 theatre 55 Thatta 175 Thangus 286 Thandiani 249 Thalle Lungma 292 Thakot 258 Teru 284 12 terrorism 377 telephone services Taxila 88-90, Tashkurgan 318-20, Tarashing 270 Tangir 263-5 Taloybari 296 Taliban 38, 40,47 Talechi 268 206 Takht-i-Bahi Tagharma Basin320 Taftan 387-8 T 207-17, Swat district Sunnis 46 324-5, (Kashgar) Sunday Market (GoldenMosque)105 Masjid Sunehri Sumer Nala263 179 Sukkur Sufism 104 185 Lake Subri Subash Plateau320 STDs 399 56, sport Chhish)353 Spantik (Ganesh Sost 314-15, solo travellers376-7 snow leopard66 Smugglers’ Bazaar196 366 skiing 286-90, Skardu Singhal 283 Sindhis 36,37,45 Ziarat Rahman Baba194-6 Ziarat Rahman AbdulLatif176 Ziarat ofShah safety 207 people 190 see alsoindividualsports 314 89 158 287 319 208 6 trekking 331-63, trekking 388-92 travel withinPakistan 382-8 travel to/fromPakistan train travel traditions 41-2 tours 335 information378 tourist toilets 377-8 tipping 373 time 377 Timargarha 218 Caves330 Three-Immortals Threadnet Hunzaprogramme304 Thowar 286 Thor 265 Thol 297 treks within Pakistan 391-3 within Pakistan 387 to/from Pakistan 87 from Rawalpindi from Quetta150 from Peshawar 199 173 from Karachi Xinjiang time318 Pakora Pass 350-1, Passes 360-1, & Mintaka Kilik Humbrok 362-3, La362 Hispar An&Doni342-4, Gokhshal Fairy 348-9, Meadow Donson Pass &KundyakAn344-5, Diran BaseCamp346-7, Batura Glacier356-7, Baltoro Glacier362 Avdegar 355-6, tours 335 safety 339-40 335,337-9 porters permits 337 Passu 310-11, Nagyr 349-54 332-4 itineraries Hunza 349-54 Gulmit 309, guides 337-9 Gojal 355-61 Gilgit 346-9 Ghizar 341-6 equipment 336 costs 337 341-6 Chitral district Chalt 295-6 Baltistan 361-3 343 344 309 333 311 355 362 350 348 357 347 361 Uyghur 411-12 Urdu 403-5 Urak Tangi 150 Upal 322 305,354 Ultar Meadow Udegram 213 127-8 Uch Sharif U typhoid 399-400 52,365 TV 168 turtles Gol233-4 Turikho tuberculosis 399 Areas 44,189,190,200 Tribal the above - ‘Do the right thing withour content.’ the above -‘Do theright theterms andconditions onoursiteforalonger wayofsaying youknow,or resell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inother words,please don’t uploadthischapter toapeer-to-peer In return, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseit forpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse, accesstothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake valleys vaccinations 396 vacations 372 V permits 201-2 Ultar 353-4, Thui An345-6, Shimshal Pamir 357-9, 352-3, Rush Phari BaseCamp351-2, Rakaposhi Pamiri 359-60, Bumboret Valley 232-3 Boibar Valley 313 ValleyBirir 233 Basho Valley 291-2 Bar Valley 295-6 Bagrot Valley 271-2, Astor Valley 268-70 Alai Valley 259-61, 354 345 360 352 260 271 358 351 water shortages 70 water shortages water 398 volunteering 379 volunteering visas 378-9 travellers61 vegetarian walking, walking, TajikWakhi people307 412-13 Wakhi 90 Gardens Wah 387 Wagah W Kaghan Valley 251-5, Kaghan Jhelum Valley 185-6 Hushe Valley 293-4 Haramosh Valley 271 Dubair Valley 261 Chowa Daravalley262 Chaprot Valley 295 registration 378 Yunz Valley 311-12 Shishi Valley 222 Shimshal Valley 313, Rupal Valley 270 Rumbur Valley 231-2 Palas Valley 262 Neelam Valley 185 Naltar Valley 281-2, Valley 318 Mintaka ValleyMarghazar 214 Leepa Valley 186 Langar Valley 284 Valley 262 Kayal Valley 263 Kandia valleys228-33, Kalasha see trekking 281 5 252 229 weather 15-16,367 women travellers379-81 48-9 women inPakistan wildlife, whitewater boating366-7 weights &measures 365 World WideFund forNature (WWF) zoos 316 Zood Khun AbdulLatif176 Ziarat ofShah Ziarat 151-2 Zia ul 34-5 Haq, General Zarabad 311 Gun)107 Zamzama (Kim’s Z Yusuf HasHajib325-6 Yunz Valley 311-12 Yazrich 316 Yasin 283 Yarkhun Gol234 Yarkand 330 Y Xinjiang 324 X monsoon 16 trekking 339 trekking safety 339-40 health 401-2 68, 274,341,379 Lal SuhanraNationalPark 69 Zoo107 Lahore 123 Bahawalpur see © LonelyPlanetPublications animals Index (T-Z)

429 INDEX