© Lonely Planet Publications 420 421 Index A Saidu Sharif 209-12, 210 Barikot 213 Abakh Hoja Tomb 325 Taxila 88-90, 89 Barpu Glacier 353 Abbottabad 245-9, 246 architecture 53-4 Barsat 284 accommodation 364-6 area codes, see inside front cover Barsin 263 activities 366, see also individual army 34-6 Basant 110 activities arts 52-6, see also individual arts Basha Dam 265 acute mountain sickness (AMS) Artush 330 Basho 286 341, 400 Ashoka, Emperor 237, 249-50 Basho Valley 291-2 Afghan border 154 Ashoka Rocks 249-50 Batagram 256-7 INDEX Afghan refugees 46 Askur Das 306 bathrooms 377-8 Afiyatabad (New Sost) 314-15, 314 Astor Valley 268-70, 269 Batrik 232, 344 AIDS 398 Astor village 268 Battakundi 255 air pollution 70 Athmaqam 185 Batura Glacier 356-7, 7 air travel 382-3 ATMs 373 bazaars 376, 6 airlines 382-3 Avdegar 355-6, 355 Bazira 213 airports 382-3 Avgarch 313-14 begging 50 tickets 383 Awami League 32 Begum Shah Mosque 105 to/from Pakistan 383-5 Ayub National Park 80 Besham 258-9, 258 to/from the KKH 394 Azad Jammu & Kashmir 181-6, 182 Beyal 349 within Pakistan 388-9 earthquake 183 Bhitai, Shah Abdul Latif 52, 176 Akbar 27 Bhong Mosque 126-7 Akbari Mosque 179 B Bhurban 92-3 Alai Valley 259-61, 260 Baba Ghundi Ziarat 316 Bhutto, Benazir 35, 39, 51 alcohol 60 Baba Wali Kandahari 90 Bhutto family 38-9 Alexander the Great 26 Babur 27 Bhutto, Zulfiqar Ali 38, 39 Ali Masjid 200 Babusar Pass 255-6, 267 bicycle travel, see cycling Aliabad 298-9 Badshahi Mosque 103-5 bird-watching 66 All-India Muslim League 29-30 Bagh 186 Birir Valley 233 Allergological Asthma Resort Bagrot Valley 271-2, 271 Birmogh Lasht 227-8 138 Bahawalpur 121-5, 122 Biyabari 347 Altit Fort 305 Bahrain 215-16 boating 167, 366, 4 altitude sickness 400 baksheesh 373 Boibar Valley 313 Aminabad 313 Bala Hisar Fort 194 Bolan Pass 153 Anarkali 106 Balakot 253 books Andra Fort 309 Balanguru 231-2 cooking 58 animals 65-7, see also individual Baloch people 37, 44-5 health 397 animals Balochistan 139-56, 141 history 32, 34, 38, 40 endangered species 66-7 Balti 405-6 literature 53 Anish 232 Baltistan 284-94, 361-3, 285 politics 31, 32, 34, 38, 40 Archaeological Museum of Balochistan Baltit, see Karimabad travel 17-18 (Quetta Museum) 145 Baltit Fort 300, 301 wildlife 66 archaeological sites Baltoro Glacier trek 362 border ceremony 120 Banbhore 174-5 Banbhore 174-5 border crossings 385-8 Ha Noi 330 Bangladesh 31-2 Borit Lake 309, 312 Harappa 134-5 Banjosa 186 Brahui people 45 Lower Swat 213 Bannu 203 British East India Company 28 Makli Hill 175 Bar Palas 262 British Raj buildings 166 Mardan Plain 205-6 Bar Valley 295-6 British rule 28-9 Mehrgarh 153-4 bargaining 374 Brun 232 Moenjodaro 176-9, 178 Bari Imam Shrine 79 Bualtar Glacier 353 422 Index (B-E) Index (E-H) 423 Bubulimating 305 Channan Mela 126 Darkot 283 events, see festvials Muzaffarabad Fort 184 Shani Glacier 351 Buddhist sites Channan Pir 126 Darra Adam Khel 202-3 exchange rates, see inside front cover Naghar Fort 220 Siachen Glacier 36, 293 Chakdara 217-18 Chaprot Valley 295 Dasu 262 Qasim Bagh Fort 129-30 Tarashing Glacier 270 Chilas 267 Chapursan Valley 315-16, 6 Data Ganj Bakhsh 106 F Ranikot Fort 176 global warming 65 Ghaligai Buddha 213 Charsadda 207 Davdar 318 Fa Hsien 257 Red Fort 184 Gojal 307-17, 308 Gilgit region 280 Chashi 283 deep vein thrombosis (DVT) 397 Fairy Meadow 267, 348-9, 348 Rohtas Fort 137-8 trekking 355-61 Jamal Garhi 206 Chatorkhand 283 Defence Housing Authority Mosque Faisalabad 136-7 Sehwan Sharif 176 Gokhshal An 342 Kashmir Smats 206-7 Chattar Plain 265 (Masjid-i-Tuba) 166-7 Faiz Ahmed Faiz 52-3 Shah Makkai (Hyderabad) Fort 175 Gol 292 Mirpur Khas 176 Chaukundi 174 deforestation 69-70 Faqir family 106 Shahgai Fort 200 golden marmot 66 Peshawar 191 Chikar 186 dehydration 401 festivals 370-1 Shahi Fort 213 Golpigol 346 Sacred Rocks at Hunza 306 Chilas 265-7, 266 dengue fever 397 Baisakhi Festival 90 Sheikhupura 120 Gomenah 345 Saidu Sharif 210-11 child labour 50 Deosai Plains 291 Basant 110 Tashkurgan Fort 318-19 government resthouses 365 Shahbaz Garhi 206 children, travel with 367 Deosai Plains National Park 69 Channan Mela 126 fundamentalism 47-8 Great Game, the 30 Shatial 263 Chimirsan Ghari 343 Dera Ghazi Khan (DG Khan) 133-4 Chitral 222, 370 Great Thar Desert 176 INDEX Shigar 292 China Friendship Rd 317 Dera Ismail Khan (DI Khan) 203-4 Eid-Milad-un-Nabi 371 G Grom 231-2 INDEX Takht-i-Bahi 206 China–Pakistan Highway 317 Dera Nawab Sahib (Dera Nawab) Eid-ul-Azha (Adha) 371 Gaddani beach 174 Guchesham 357 Taxila 88-9 Chirah 271 126 Eid-ul-Fitr 371 Gakuch 283 guesthouses 366 Three-Immortals Caves 330 Chitral district 220-34, 221 Derawar Fort 126 Islamic 371 Galis, the 92-3 Gujars 240 Udegram 213 people 190 diarrhoea 400 Kalasha 231 Gandhara 26, 27, 88, 188, 191, Gulagmuli 284 Zarai 200 trekking 341-6 digital photography 375 Mela Chiraghan 110 205-6, 207 Gulmit 308-10, 309, 311 Bulunkul Dobey 321 Chitral Festival 370 Dih 317 Nauroz (Navrus) 370 Ganish 306 Gulmit Glacier 309 Bumboret Valley 232-3 Chitral Gol National Park 68-9, 228 Dir district 217-20, 208 Ramazan 371 Garam Chashma 228 guns 51, 196 Bunar Das 267 Chitral Town 222-7, 223 Dir town 218-19, 219 Shandur Cup (Polo Festival) 370 Gargoh 272 Gupis 283 Bundiwalum 346 Choar 260 Diran Peak 272 Shandur Pass 276 Gashuchi 346 gurdwaras Buni 233 Cholistan 125-6 disabilities, travellers with 378 Sibi Mela 152 Gazin Glacier 346 Gurdwara Janamasthan Nankana Burawai 255 Chowa Dara valley 262 Doni An 342-3 urs of Data Ganj Bakhsh Hajveri gay travellers 371-2 121 Burushaski 406-7 Chughtai, Abdur Rahman 108 Doni Ghari 342 110 Genghis Khan 237 Gurdwara of Arjan Dev 105 bus travel Chughtai Museum 108-9 Donson Pass 344-5, 344 film 53 geography 63-5 Guru 233 on the KKH 393-4 cinema 53 dress 43 fishing 366 geology 64 Guru Nanak 90, 121 to/from Pakistan 387 climate 15-16, 367, 368 drinks 60 food 58-62, 371 Ghaligai Buddha 213 Gwadar 156 within Pakistan 389-90 clothing 381 driving, see car travel customs 61 Ghashumaling 295 business hours 366-7, see also inside computer repairs 117 Drosh 222 etiquette 43 Ghazni, Mahmud of 237 H front cover consulates 370 drugs 51, 196, 369 glossary 62 Ghez 321 Ha Noi 330 corruption 50-2 Dubair Valley 261 Hunza 304 Ghizar 283-4 haggling 374 C costs 17 Duikar 305 restaurants 60-1 Ghora Dhaka 92-3 Halal 61 camping 365 trekking 337 Durand Line 32, 37, 189 vegetarian travellers 61 Ghowari 292 Haleji Lake 175 car travel credit cards 374 Dut 313 foreigner’s registration 378 Ghulkin Village 309 Halmat 185 driver hire 390-1 cricket 56-7 Fort Munro 134 Ghulmet 297, 298 handicrafts 55 on the KKH 394 culture 41-57 E forts giardiasis 400 Hanna Lake 150 rental 390 customs regulations 367-9 earthquakes 64, 183 Altit Fort 305 Gilgit region 263-84, 264 Haramosh Valley 271, 271 to/from Pakistan 386 cycling 366, 385, 389 economy 49-52 Andra Fort 309 Gilgit town 272-80, 273 Harappa 134-6 within Pakistan 390-1 Babusar Pass & Kaghan Valley 255 Edara 320 Bala Hisar Fort 194 Gilgit Uprising 275 Haripur 245 carpets 55-6 Kashgar to Islamabad 242-4 Edhi, Abdul Sattar 161 Baltit Fort 300, 301 Gittidas 256 Hasan Abdal 90 Central Karakoram National Park on the KKH 392-3 Edhi Foundation 161 Chilas Fort 265 glacial warfare 36 Havelian 245 68, 286 safety 393 Edicts of Ashoka 206 Chitral Fort 224-5 glaciers Hazara 244-57, 245 Chaghbin 228 Eidgah Mosque 131 Derawar Fort 126 Baltoro Glacier 362 Hazarganji-Chiltan National Park Chakdara 217-18 D electrical repairs 117 Jamrud Fort 200 Barpu Glacier 353 150-1 Chakhchun 293 Dadar 256 electricity 365 Kalam Darchi 361 Batura Glacier 356-7, 7 health 395-402 Chalt 295-6, 297 Dainyor 280-2 email, see internet access Karpochu Fort 288 Bualtar Glacier 353 diseases 397-400 Chaman 154 Daman-e-Koh 77-9 embassies 370 Katkala 218 Gazin Glacier 346 insurance 395-6 Changa Manga Wildlife Reserve 121 dance 55 emergencies, see inside front cover Khar 134 Gulmit Glacier 309 trekking 341 Dandai 258 energy shortage 70 Kot Diji 180 Mulungutti Glacier 313 vaccinations 396 000 Map pages dangers 16-17, 369 environmental issues 65, 69-70 Lahore Fort (Shahi Qila) 102-3, Pakora Glacier 351 websites 397 000 Photograph pages Dar 272 erosion 70 103 Passu Glacier 311 hepatitis 398 Darel 263-5 etiquette 43 Mir Chakar’s Fort 153 Raikot Glacier 348 heroin 51 424 Index (H-K) Index (K-M) 425 Hill Stations 185-6 Indian Uprising 28 Jalalabad 271 medical services 322 Anarkali 106 Mahabat Khan Mosque 194 Hinarche Harai 347 Indian wild ass 65 Jamal Garhi 206 permits 323 attractions 102-9 Mahmud of Ghazni 237 Hindu sites Indus Kohistan 257-63, 257 Jami Masjid al Sadiq 122 safety 324 drinking 115-16 Makli Hill 175 Great Thar Desert (Tharparkar Indus River dolphin 65, 67 Jamrud Fort 200 shopping 328 entertainment 116 Makran, the 155-6 Desert) 176 Indus Valley civilisation 177, 180 Jehangir’s Tomb 108 tourist information 323-4 festivals 110 Malakand Pass 207 Hasan Abdal 90 insurance 372 jewellery 56 travel to/from 328-9 food 113-15 Malam Jabba 213-14 Kashmir Smats 206-7 health 395-6 Jhandrot 283 travel within 329-30 internet access 97-9 malaria 398-9 Ketas 138 internet access 372 Jhelum 137 Kashmir 32-4, see also Azad Jammu Mall, the 106-8 Manchhar Lake 176 Hindukush range 63, 64 internet resources 18 Jhelum Valley 185-6 & Kashmir medical services 99 Mandarin 408-9 Hinglaj 154-5 air tickets 383 Jinnah, Mohammed Ali 29, 151 earthquake 64 Old City 105-6 Manghopir 174 Hingol National Park 154-5 environment 68 joshanda 106 Kashmir Smats 206-7 shopping 116-17 Mangla Reservoir 186 Hiran Minar 120 health 397 Kawai 253 tourist information 101 Mankial Khwar 216