Top 10 Prague

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL TOP10 PRAGUE

Ř ÁC ÍŽSKÁ Pomník Palác Golz- Kinských Jana Husa Golz-Kinský Palace 10 Jan Hus Dům U Kamenného Unmissable museums & galleries

SELO Monument House at the Ungelt Kostel sv. Mikuláše Stone Bell Týn Courtyard Church of St Nicholas 10 VA Best restaurants & cafés Staromĕstské Námĕstí Kostel Panny Marie U RADNICE před Týnem 10 Old Town Church of Our Lady before Tý Most fun places for children Square Staroměstská radnice Štorchův Dům 10 Old Town Hall Storch House Haunted sites in the medieval city

ŽELE Á

ům U Minuty V ZN 10 tth Mi t Greatest Czech writers & composers 10 Best hotels for every budget 10 Sights in the Jewish Quarter 10 Liveliest bars & clubs 10 Monuments from the Communist era 10 Insider tips for every visitor YOUR GUIDE TO 10THE 10 BEST OF EVERYTHING

TOP 10 PRAGUE

THEODORE SCHWINKE

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL 2 Contents introduced intoaretrieval system, ortransmitted, Left of quality or popularity isimplied. orpopularity All 10of quality are,inthe Eddie Geraldb. Images: NigelHudsontr;Peter tl;RoughWilson Guides/EddieGeraldtc; Cover: Front – A catalogue recordforA catalogue thisbookisavailable from otherwise), withoutthepriorwritten permission otherwise), Within eachWithin Top 10 listinthisbook,nohierarchy publisher ofthisbook.Pulished inGreatBritain under copyrightabove, reserved nopartofthis Dorling Kindersley, 80Strand,London, GreatBritain WC2R 0RL,oremail: [email protected] Every effortEvery hasbeenmadetoensurethatthisbookisasup-to-date aspossibleatthetimeof All rights reserved. All rightsreserved. limitingtherights Without DK Publishing,375HudsonStreet,New York, Copyright 2003, 2011 ©Dorling Kindersley publication may bereproduced,storedinor cannot accept responsibility for anycannot acceptresponsibility consequencesarisingfromtheuseofthisbook,norfor any websites, materialonthirdparty andcannotguaranteethatany website addressinthis of boththecopyright owner andtheabove book will be a suitable sourceoftravelbook willbeasuitable information. We value the views andsuggestionsof going to press. Some details, h going topress.Somedetails, View from Petřín Hill in any form, orby any means(electronic, Printed andboundinChinaby Leo Paper Produced by SargassoMediaLtd,London mechanical, or photocopying,recording, gallery hangingarrangements andtravelgallery information areliable to change. The publishers editor’s opinion,ofroughlyequalmerit. Reprinted withrevisions 2005, 2007, Reproduced by Colourscan,Singapore The information inthisDKEyewitness Top 10 Travel Guideischecked regularly. Published by intheUnitedStates 11 12 13 14 10 987654321 our readers very highly.our readersvery Pleasewriteto:Publisher, DKEyewitness Travel Guides, by DorlingKindersley Limited. First American Edition 2003 Edition First American ISBN 978-0-75666-945-4 the Library ofCongress. the Library Corbis: Eye Ubiquitous/Paul Sehult bl;Hemisphere Images: MaurizioBorgese main.Back- Limited, London ISSN 1479-344X New York10014 Products Ltd 2009, 2011 Right HolocaustMemorial Wall, Pinkas Synagogue owever, such as tel as owever, such House Signs ak n adn 40 Parks andGardens lcso osi 38 Places of Worship uem n alre 36 Museums andGalleries oet nHsoy 34 Moments inHistory 30 Petřín Hill Wenceslas Square tAnssCnet 28 St Agnes’sConvent ainlGley 26 National Gallery l eihCmtr 22 Old Jewish Cemetery The Loreto Charles Bridge l onSur 14 Old TownSquare tVtssCterl 12 St Vitus’s Cathedral Prague Castle Prague’s Top10 Contents ephone numbers,openinghours,prices, Spine: DK Images: Rough Guides/ 42 32 20 18 DK 8 Contents 3 72 80 90 98 104 Dis. access disabled access Dis. Modern Bohemian crystal Modern Streetsmart Information Practical 132 Places to Stay 142 Around Town Around Old Town Malá Strana Castle and Prague Hradčany Josefov Town New Greater Prague 114 General Index General Index 148 Right no admission charge no admission charge Free St Wenceslas mural, Storch House Storch mural, Wenceslas St admission charge admission charge Right Key to abbreviations abbreviations to Key Adm Communist Memorial, Wenceslas Square Square Wenceslas Communist Memorial, The Loreto Left Left Writers and Composers and Composers Writers 44 Shops and Markets Shops and Markets 56 Children’s Attractions Attractions Children’s 54 Haunted Prague Haunted Prague 52 Eccentric Prague Eccentric Prague 50 Communist Monuments Communist Monuments 48 Film Locations Film Locations 46 Bars and Kavárnas and Kavárnas Bars 60 Prague Dishes Prague 58 Performing Arts Venues Venues Arts Performing 64 Restaurants 62 Festivals Festivals 68 Clubs 66

PRAGUE’S TOP 10

Prague’s Highlights

6–7 PRAGUE’S TOP 10 Prague Castle 8–11 St Vitus’s Cathedral 12–13 Old Town Square 14–17 Charles Bridge 18–19 The Loreto 20–21 Old Jewish Cemetery 22–25 National Gallery 26–27 St Agnes’s Convent 28–29 Wenceslas Square 30–31 Petřín Hill 32–33 Top 10 of Everything 34–69 Prague’s Highlights At the geographical heart of Europe, Prague’s beautiful cityscape has been carved and sustained by a variety of emperors, artists and religious communities, from the Gothic exuberance of its castle and cathedral, to the dignity of the medieval Jewish Cemetery, and the 19th-century opulence of the “new” town. Under Communist rule, Prague was off the tourist map, but since 1989 the city has seen a surge of visitors eager to take in this spectacular city. ! Prague Castle The hilltop fortress A ÁNSKÉ HRADBY O V MARI TK of the Přemyslids is J ELENÍ CHO Královská zahrada Royal Gardens home to the head of U BR U U SKỲCH KASÁREN the Czech Republic. B R Hradčany U S N

Spend a day exploring KLÁROV IC E Á SK the castle’s many JN LDŠ T E Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top A KANOVNICKÁ V impressive palaces, U

K Á A K S S churches, galleries Á HRADČANSKÉ N R E E NÁMĔSTÍ T N E L and gardens (see TOMÁŠSKÁ Vojanovy sady N ERUDOVA pp8–11). KÁ MALOSTRANSKÉ Vojan Park RETÁ NS LO ÚVOZ NÁMĚSTÍ MOSTECKÁ

KARMELITS

Malá Strana

KÁ Little Quarter Kampa Kampa Island

ÚJEZD

Petřínské sady Petřín Park

ŘÍČNÍ St Vitus’s @ VÍTĔZNÁ Cathedral most Legií The glory of the castle complex, St Vitus’s took 400 yards 0 metres 400 more than 600 years to build. Visit the beautiful chapels adjoining the cathedral, or its crypt to see the tombs of Bohemia’s Holy Roman Emperors (see pp12–13).

$ Charles Bridge Linking the city across £ Old Town Square the River Vltava, it can be Prague’s central square has been a market difﬁcult to appreciate the since the Middle Ages, and was witness to the beautiful carved statues of rise and fall of numerous regimes and no shortage former citizens, due to the of bloodshed. The city has few charms ﬁner than incessant crowds and watching the moon rise between the towers of trinket stalls. But it’s worth the Church of Our Lady Before Týn (see pp14–17). the effort (see pp18–19).

6 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com Prague’s Top 10 7 & National National Gallery’s Gallery’s ard give ard give buildings in buildings in Europe, the Europe, the modern and modern and collection of collection of Gallery Functionalist Functionalist contemporary National One of the ﬁrst One of the ﬁrst art, including 14 art, including 14 now houses the houses the now Trade Fair Palace Palace Fair Trade Picassos (see pp26–7). St Agnes’s St Agnes’s Convent Old Jewish Old Jewish Cemetery * oldest Gothic Prague’s home to building is now the National Gallery’s art collection of medieval and remains a monument a Přemyslid to its founder, up a princess who gave at court to pursue her life (see pp28–9). faith ^ of tombstones jumble The gravey in this tiny of the some indication buried number of bodies Jewish here. Prague’s and wor- community lived surround- shipped in the . (see pp22–5) ing ghetto

(

Á NICI NICI

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A C

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Wenceslas Wenceslas N REVOLUČNÍ business centre. business centre.

Švermův most REVOLUČNÍ Monuments on the Monuments on the nation’s tumultuous tumultuous nation’s The Loreto have Pilgrims

PANSKÁ its origins as a From grown into a modern into a modern grown humble horse market, humble horse market, NÁMĚSTÍ

square remind visitors square remind visitors

history (see pp30–31).

Á Square has Wenceslas VÁCLAVSKÉ

% K visited this Baroque this Baroque visited Virgin shrine to the Mary since the 17th Visitors can century. see priceless its ornaments in treasury (see pp20–21). PŘÍKOPĚ NA

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DUŠNÍ N E

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B PAŘÍŽSKÁ O SPÁLENÁ

RADNICE Old Town ÁR

Staré Mĕsto Josefov N

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Jewish Quarter

Čechův most D

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Hill Petřín Malá above Perched

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Strana, the forested Petřín Petřín Strana, the forested Hill is criss-crossed with giving visitors footpaths, in some of the ﬁnest views old Ukrainian The the city. is wonderfully church romantic (see pp32–3). )

E Í SM

Letná Park Letná

most Letenské sady most Karlův Mánesův 8 Prague’s Top 10 edifice seentoday. Today itishometothePresident oftheCzechRepublic. castle wasrebuiltinthe16th century, resultinginthegloriousRenaissance The castlelaterbecamethecapitalofHolyRomanEmpire.Much establishing thehilltopoverlooking theriverasPřemyslid’sdynasticseat. hereinthelate9thcentury,lands. PrinceBořivojbuiltawoodenfortress Castle Crowned bythedistinctspiresofStVitus’sCathedral Main entrance • • • Mar: 9am–4pmdaily 9am–6pm daily,Nov– Open Apr–Oct: St George’s Basilica: 10am–6pm daily; George’s Convent: Open Mar: 9am–4pmdaily;St 9am–6pm daily,Nov– Palace: Open Apr–Oct: 6am–11pm daily;Royal daily, Nov–Mar: Apr–Oct: 5am–midnight • www.ngprague.cz www.pis.cz; • MapC2 Hradčany, Prague 1 Adm (seep9) Castlegrounds:Open www.hrad.cz; courtyard. ceremony inthefirst fanfare andtheflag At noonitincludesa changes every hour. Guard The Castle (Pražský Hrad)isthemetaphoricalandhistoricalthroneofCzech Prague Castle • For moresights aroundHradčany 224372423 ! made dowithawooden residences were builton structure, subsequent top ofeach other asthe tastes ofBohemia’stastes rulers Halls aredecoratedwith changed (seepp10–11). coats ofarms(above) 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10 Features @ Ferdinand Iandhis son MaximilianII gave thedourcastle some greenery inthe some greenery late 16th and century, lined paths,stepsand Plečnik createdthe architect Josip the FirstRepublic to MaláStrana(right) . grottoes thatextend Daliborka Golden Lane Powder Tower White Tower StGeorge’s Basilica StGeorge’s Convent Battling Titans Lobkowicz Palace South Gardens Old While Prince Bořivoj Old Royal Palace Gardens South Royal Palace . See pp90–93 family in2007, thisrival tothe National Gallery holdsworksNational Gallery by Bruegel, Canaletto, Dürer, Rubens and Velázquez in its unique collection. £ (see pp12–13), Prague Opened by theLobkowicz Lobkowicz Palace Prague’s Top 10 9 0 3 alace Castle Plan of Prague Prague 9 7 6 Daliborka something Dalibor, Golden Lane hovels colourful The Powder Tower. Powder St George’s Convent and Convent St George’s Kč350 ticket includes Kč350 ticket Daliborka Tower; a Daliborka Tower; and Golden Lane with Basilica, Old RoyalBasilica, P Kč250 ticket includes Kč250 ticket admission to St George’s the third courtyard. A the third courtyard. at the tourist office in at the tourist office the interiors, buy a ticket a ticket the interiors, buy plex for free, but to see for plex much of the castle com- much Castle Guide through can wander You 5 . takes his name (below) avoid guild dues in town. avoid of the tower that now that now of the tower goldsmiths so they could could goldsmiths so they was captured and and captured was became the first prisoner castle wall were home to to home were castle wall of a Czech Robin Hood, Hood, Robin of a Czech built into the built into the (below) ) ( 1 2 8 White Tower Tower White The Powder Tower Powder II’s Rudolf was This 4 with replicas of weapons. & archers once watched once watched archers the moat are lined over The gangwaysThe from which selling grisly souvenirs. selling grisly souvenirs. ber and, today, shops shops ber and, today, contains a torture cham- contains a torture * place where lampreys place where lampreys are kept. implies a “mihulka” implies a top research facility, facility, top research sought where alchemists Stone. the Philosopher’s name Oddly, the Czech . (below)

Prince Boleslav II with Princess Mlada Mlada II with Princess Boleslav Prince St George’s Convent St George’s These stone giants giants stone These Battling Titans St George’s St George’s Basilica

building houses 19th-century Czech art. Czech building houses 19th-century in the 10th century. The Romanesque Romanesque The century. in the 10th established the ﬁrst Czech convent here here convent established the ﬁrst Czech have dominated the First First dominated the have Empress Courtyard since Maria Theresa asked to sculpt Ignatz Platzer century. them in the 18th

% $ grandmother, St Ludmila, St Ludmila, grandmother, is decorated with beautiful 16th-century paintings chapel of St Wenceslas’s Wenceslas’s of St chapel basilica in AD 921. The The AD 921. basilica in

Prince Vratislav Vratislav Prince built the ^ Left Bohemian Chancellery Right Vault in the old Land Rolls Room Features of the Royal Palace Vladislav Hall ! Benedict Ried created a mastery of Gothic design with his elaborate vaulting here. Since the First Republic, the country’s presidents have been ceremoni- Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top ously chosen here, but it has also been used for coronations and jousting tournaments. The Diet

Riders’ Staircase Bohemian Chancellery @ The low steps and vaulted $ The ﬁrst battle of the Thirty ceiling of this stairway permitted Years’ War was staged here. mounted knights to make spec- Protestant noblemen threw two tacular entrances to tournaments Catholic governors and their held in Vladislav Hall. secretary from the east window. Their fall was broken by a dung Louis Wing heap – or an intervening angel, £ Only 10 years and a few depending on whom you ask. steps separate the southern wing from the main hall, but in Old Land Rolls Room the interim, Benedict Ried moved % The coats of arms decora- castle architecture from Gothic ting the walls belong to clerks to Renaissance. Bohemian nobles who kept tabs on property met here in an administrative ownership and court decisions body when the king was away. from 1614 to 1777. Until the reign of Maria Theresa, record books were not numbered, but identiﬁed by elaborate covers.

Diet ^ Bohemian nobles met here with the king in a prototype parliament. The king sat on the throne (the one seen today is a 19th-century replica), the archbishop sat to the king’s right, while the estates sat on his left. The portraits on the wall show, from the left, Maria Theresa, her husband Franz, Josef II, Leopold II and Franz I, who fought Riders’ Staircase Napoleon at Austerlitz.

10 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Prague’s Top 10 11 and 1618 . (see pp16–17) This 1889 work by by work 1889 This Brožík von Václav the captures moment of the attack Protestants’ on the Catholic Painted governors. it later, 271 years the illustrates how has remained event in the Czech consciousness. Prague’s Prague’s Defenestration The Story of Prague Prague of The Story Castle Busts from Workshop Parléř’s Peter ( covers permanent exhibition This personalities the history, events, to the relating crafts and arts and for making main castle complex, and entertaining an informative experience. ) portraits were impressive These century created in the late 14th and include the grandfather- of set of John father-grandson and Luxembourg, Charles IV IV. Wenceslas Prague’s first recorded instance of execution by Prague’s first recorded instance hurling the condemned from a window occurred at Vladislav II’s in 1419. the outset of the Hussite Wars Perhaps as a officials met a similar fate in 1483. Protestant tribute to their forebears, more than 100 in Palace nobles stormed the Old Royal cast two hated Catholic governors and their secretary fall was broken by a The men’s out of the window. dung heap swept from the Vladislav Hall after a recent tournament (although Catholics at the time claim they were saved by angels). The incident is often cited as the spark that began the Thirty Years’ the Protestants’ defeat at Bìlá Hora in Following War. the nobles got their day in court and at the 1620, Hall gallows, in front of the Old Town Prague’s Third Prague’s Third Defenestration

(1896–1953) (1552–1612) Masaryk (1850–1937) (1884–1948) (1361–1419) 907–935)

Soběslav Residence Soběslav literally laid Soběslav Prince Chapel of All Saints of Chapel of eastern end At the Klaus (b.1941) Václav Klement Gottwald Gottwald Klement (b.1936) Havel Václav Rudolph II Rudolph Garrigue Tomáś Beneś Edvard Otakar II (1233–78) Charles IV (1316–78) IV Wenceslas Wenceslas (around Wenceslas 9 0 8 7 6 5 3 4 2 1 Top 10 Rulers of 10 Top Prague

* & the foundations for Prague Prague for the foundations stone Castle, building the first century. palace here in the 12th Vladislav Hall, a doorway leads to Hall, a doorway to leads Vladislav All the Chapel of above a balcony modelled it Parler Saints. Peter Sainte-Chapelle in on the Gothic it in fire destroyed After Paris. in redesigned it was 1541, style. Of particular Renaissance Aachen’s is Hans van artistic note Angels. of the Triptych 12 Prague’s Top 10 finally completedin1929. stopped and,remarkably, constructionwasonly intervention oftheHussiteWars, however, work wunderkind Peter Parléř totakeover. Withthe thereafter andCharlesIVhiredtheSwabian was namedanarchbishopric.Hediedshortly Matthew d’Arras beganworkonthegrandcathedralin1344whenPrague pagan worshipsiteanddedicatedittoStVitus and therestofcity. PrinceWenceslas firstbuiltarotundahereupon because ofitsdominantpositiononHradčanyhill,loomingover theVltava This spectacularGothiccathedralisanunmissablesightinPrague,notleast ra oe windows Great Tower noon–4pm Sun 9am–4pm Mon–Sat, noon–6pm Sun;Nov–Feb: 9am–6pm Mon–Sat, • • • • Prague Castle • OpenMar–Oct: www.katedralapraha.cz 224373162 MapC2 Courtyard, Third Chapel of the Cr the Chapel of end of2010 inthe due to openatthe liturgical artifacts is St Vitus’s Treasury and An exhibitionof with aguide. crypt may beentered closed, buttheroyal The South Tower is whole day. to offer cantake a have and thecastle that thecathedral for free. Seeingall can beappreciated CathedralSt Vitus’s St Vitus’s Cathedral For in Prague moreplaces ofworship oss. 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10 Features ! which pointtheHussite civil wars haltedconstruction of this 96-m(315-ft) tower. By the timework resumed, architectural hadmoved style into theRenaissance, hence the roundedcaponaGothic base. The tower isclosedto the public. High Altar Golden Portal Sigismund New Archbishop’s Chapel StJohn ofNepomuk’s Tomb Royal Royal Crypt Bohemian Crown Wenceslas Chapel South Tower It isclearatexactly South Tower Oratory Jewels (svatý Vít), aRomansaint. See pp38–9 Wenceslas builtthefirst wherePrincestands St Vitus rotunda and rotunda St Vitus contains thetombofitscontains patron saint. The fres- namesake, Bohemia’s coes ofChrist’s Passion @ on thelower wall are the upperfrescoesof St Vladislav IIcommissioned semi-precious stones. surrounded by 1,300 to celebratehisson Wenceslas’s life, painted Ludvik’s coronation. This chapel (left) Wenceslas Chapel

Prague’s Top 10 13 9 8 1 3 2 5 4 6 was the the was 0 (above) 7 High Altar St by Bounded Golden Portal triple-arched This his death in 1399. sons and nephews sons and nephews after continued his work artisans and his talented Prague. He trained the Prague. which still stand in which undertook St Vitus’s Vitus’s undertook St Cathedral, Charles Bridge and numerous other Gothic monuments his chief architect. Parléř Parléř architect. his chief Matthew d’Arras, d’Arras, Matthew Charles IV made Parléř Peter Parléř Peter the death of After Cathedral Floorplan Cathedral Neo-Gothic philosophy. in the 20th century. a strict (centre) follow ern end was completed completed ern end was the high altar and chancel the high altar and chancel cathedral until the west- marble sarcophagi of marble sarcophagi of I and family, Ferdinand main entrance to the main entrance to the Vitus’s Chapel and the Chapel and the Vitus’s arcade ) (

New Archbishop’s New Archbishop’s Chapel St John of St John Tomb Nepomuk’s Sigismund bell of 18-tonne The the Archbishop’s Chapel the Archbishop’s . Despite (below) appearances, the glass is painted, not stained. of the Slavic saints for for saints of the Slavic & created Mucha Alfons window Art Nouveau the left of the tomb. of left statues of miners to the of miners to the statues Hora, symbolized by the the by Hora, symbolized mining town of Kutná of Kutná mining town kg (3,700-lb) cofﬁn (above) (3,700-lb) cofﬁn kg came from the Bohemian came from the Bohemian ^ this 1,680- for silver The holidays and events. holidays bell on important church bell on important church volunteers to ring the to ring the volunteers 1549. It takes four It takes four 1549. largest and dates from largest and dates from affectionately known as as known affectionately Sigismund, is the nation’s , (below) Tower the Great *

Bohemian Bohemian Jewels Crown Royal Oratory Royal family royal The

Royal Crypt Royal greatest kings of The

£ be there would think You’d the crown place for a safer Bohemia, and sceptre of cham- but the coronation Chapel Wenceslas ber of by is said to be guarded saint. the spirit of the were ruled by Vladislav II. Vladislav by ruled were all the countries that all the countries that coats of arms represent coats of arms represent gallery to hear mass. The The gallery to hear mass. and Rudolf II. and Rudolf to this private (see p8) to this private cathedral, including cathedral, including IV Wenceslas Charles IV, Palace from the Royal single room beneath the single room beneath the crossed a narrow bridge bridge crossed a narrow Bohemia are buried in a are buried in a Bohemia

% $ 14 Prague’s Top 10 city andstreet-sellershawkingtheirwares. city waitingtoferrytouristsaroundthe horses andcarts with cafétablessetoutinfrontofpaintedfaçades, (see p16) andthesquarecameintoitsown.Today, ithasa livelyatmosphere, burghers permissiontoformatowncouncil,thattheOldTown Hallwasbuilt 11th century, gavePrague’s butitwasin1338,whenJohnofLuxembourg Town Square(Staroměstskénáměstí).Amarketplacewaslocatedhereinthe andsoulofthecity, novisitorshould,orislikelytomisstheOldAs theheart Jan HusMemorial for tower and cellars; Adm Kč100 English guide)for hall • 10am–10pm daily Sewer (Cellars): 9am–10pm Tue–Sun; Tower: 11am–10pm Mon, 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Open 11am–6pm Mon, 724 911556; • • Adm Kč70(Kč100 with Old Town Hall: MapM3 embarrassment. a fine, aswell as flowers willearn you so, ortrampling the Monument. Doing on theJan Hus temptation to climb Resist the Old Town Square Share your travelrecommendations ontraveldk.com ! Gothic façade of thishouse Formerly doneupinBaroque @ Minutes” (above) takes itsnamefromthenot- as late1980. Onthe workersstyle, discovered the on itswalls. The alchemical so-minute southwestern corner isthe Staroměstské náměstí2date symbols adorning the bellwhich gives the from 1611. Franz Kafkalived house itsname. The in theblack-and-white house Municipal Gallery oftenMunicipal Gallery hosts as aboy (seep44). temporary exhibitions here. temporary 4 3 2 1 Top 10 Features 0 9 8 7 6 5 Church ofStNicholas Church ofOurLadyBefore Týn HouseattheStoneBell DůmuMinuty Malé náměstí Golz-Kinský Palace Štorch House Ungelt Marian Column Jan HusMemorial The “House atthe Dům uMinuty Stone Bell House atthe sgraffito images probably began asahumble This Gothicedifice(below) £ in themercantiletown church residents serving inthe14th(týn) century. customs ofthetime, Following architectural south tower isstouterthan the northone(seep38) Lady Before Týn Church ofOur . Prague’s Top 10 15

Malé náměstí in ornate well The 6th July, the day he was he was the day 6th July, still a national ﬁgure – radical factions, the radical factions, the defeating former Hus is in 1434. latter killed, is a public holiday. split into moderate and Rome. But the Hussites Rome. with Hussite rebels of the power facing Czech resentment Czech war, into civil turned burned at the stake. Germany where he was where he was Germany and was summoned to and was heretic by the Church, the Church, heretic by He was declared a He was ruption in the Church. Church. in the ruption to ﬁghting against cor- (later Charles) University, dedicated Hus was Jan Jan Hus rector of Prague The ) the centre of the “Small “Small the centre of the doubles as a Square” The plague memorial. elaborate murals of on the façade craftsmen House (below) of Rott are the only decoration Until the early left. now the building was 1990s, store. a hardware

$ Štorch House Štorch An Art Nouveau Golz-Kinský Palace Staroměstské náměstí 16. point of the house at point of the house at Wenceslas is the focal is the focal Wenceslas equestrian painting of St equestrian painting of St * an up-market restaurant.an up-market prints and drawings and and prints and drawings Gallery’s collection of collection of Gallery’s ( Once occupied by Communists, this former palace (centre & below) houses the National now . two years before before (right) two years Prague has two Baroque two Baroque has Prague Town Church of St Nicholas of St Church (see p82). starting Malá Strana’s

Ungelt courtyard behind The Marian Column Marian On Czechoslovakia’s Jan Hus Memorial Jan burned at Hus was chance to hear the church’s organ. to hear the church’s chance churches of St Nicholas, both built both built of St Nicholas, churches by Kilian Ignac Dientzenhoffer. The The Ignac Dientzenhoffer. Kilian by architect completed the one in Old the one in Old completed architect

Regular concerts here give visitors a visitors a concerts here give Regular boutiques and cafés. afoot to rebuild it. afoot it is home to smart it is home to smart tore it down. A plan is A plan is tore it down. 14th century, but today century, but today 14th former column reminded column reminded former jubilant mobs of and they Habsburg rule reads “Truth Will Prevail” reads “Truth foreign merchants in the in the merchants foreign dence in 1918, this this dence in 1918, proposing radical Church proposing radical Church The reform. inscription the ﬁgure of Hus below Týn church was home to home to was church Týn declaration of indepen-

the stake in 1415 for for the stake in 1415 &

^ % 16 Prague’s Top 10 Thirty Years’War (seep34).After executed for theirroleinthe the Bohemian nobleswhowere hall’s of easternsideinmemory set inthepavement on thetown of WorldII. Warlations miscalcu- most grievous military in thisSlovak passinoneofthe down 84,000Red Army soldiers gunned field. Germanartillery pot ofsoilfromtheDuklabattle- identified by theyear “1945” isa which features shows. temporary ground floorisanexhibition space which saintiswhich. 1945. A brochure identifies destroyed in by Germanartillery clock –they replacetheones crowds ontheastronomical figures thatturn outfor the Sucharda sculptedthe12 wooden necks oftouristsbelow stiffen. statues dancewhilethecentury cocksbells ring, crow and15th- @ ! Left % $ £ public ceremony. or drawn and quarteredhereina the menwere hanged,beheaded at theBattle of White Mountain, Protestant forces were defeated Apostles Apostles Twenty-seven crossesare White MountainMemorial Behind abrassplaque Dukla Memorial On theOld Town Hall’s Art Gallery Marionette artist Vojtěch Apostles During theday, onthehour, Astronomical Clock Old TownHallFeatures keep aneye onyour walletkeep aswell astheshow While you’re enjoying thehourlyastronomical clock performance, Centre Crosses, White MountainMemorial in Prague. the tower –arareconsideration wheelchair accesstothetopof surroundings. It alsopermits harmoniously withinthestony its space-agedesignworks design in1999. Oddlyenough, tower won anaward for best oftheup totheviewing gallery and may berebuilt the Old Town Squareuntil1918 Marian columnwhich stoodon nave isascalemodelofthe Intheadorn theentranceportal. and hiswife Eufemia’s initial Ludmila. Wenceslas IV’s emblem saints Wenceslas,and Vitus ted in1381 inhonourofthe the Mayors’ Hallwas consecra- & ^ Viewing Gallery Church ofStNicholas seenfrom the The elevator visitors taking Elevator The smallchapel adjoining Gothic Chapel Right GothicChapel (seep15). Prague’s Top 10 17 , but (see p15) The Green German artillery Retreating Craft stalls lining The Green stalls lining Craft ) unloaded their guns on the Old the Old unloaded their guns on wing to avoid north Hall’s Town to Berlin. carrying the shells back torn the wing was the war, After the area is lined with Now down. handicrafts. stalls selling Czech German artillery reduced it to rubble in 1945. The clock tower was installed in 1410, but the clock wasn’t up and running until 1572. Building the Old Building the Town Hall charter and Prague’s Old Town received its fortifications from John of Luxembourg in the mid- 13th century, but its town clerk had to wait nearly 150 years for an office. The Old Town Hall was cobbled together from existing houses over the centuries until it comprised the five houses that stand at Staroměstské náměstí 1–2 today. The hall’s eastern wing once stretched to within a few feet of the door of the Church of St Nicholas relates the relates the Medieval Medieval zodiac. It is zodiac. It is Astrology through the through the signs of the signs of the paintings by paintings by only tells the only tells the and Lust earth and the earth and the Josef Mánes. Josef Master Hanuš Master Dial Angel and the Sciences Death Avarice, Vanity, Rooster Shows Hourly Solar clock Solar clock Lunar Mánes Calendar Josef Apostles sun and moon sun and moon Gothic Cellars Town cellars of the Old The Viewing Gallery Viewing the Old parapet under The planets around planets around

decorated with decorated with Clock’s face not not face Clock’s 0 8 9 7 4 5 6 2 3 1 Top 10 Features of the Astronomical Clock current time, but time, but current

movement of the of the movement The Astronomical Astronomical The Hall were once ground floor once ground floor Hall were subject to was town The rooms. flooding, earth was so more dry. feet burghers’ added to keep used as spaces were The prisons. granaries and debtors’ Town Hall’s roof affords visitors a a visitors roof affords Hall’s Town and of the square unique view Bring your below. Town the Old you will buy Kč20 change: pocket on a miniature two minutes can you which telescope, with Valley. Prague admire the entire

( * 18 Prague’s Top 10 are preservedinmuseumsacrossthecity. the statuesarereproductions–originals Calvary, arepoliticallycontroversial. Today all incomparably lovely; others,suchasBohn’s Some, suchasBraun’s onwards, toleadthemassesbackmass. of 30statues.Thesaintsandotherreligiousfigureswereinstalled,from1683 Bridge, in Peter P yearsofprocessions,battles,executionsand,increasingly,600 filmshoots. The spectacularCharlesBridge detail BridgeTowerOld Town 10am–11pm;Kč70 Adm 10am–10pm; Apr–Sep: 10am–8pm; Mar&Oct: Jan–Feb, Nov–Dec: 221 714575; Open Charles IVandhislife: about thebridgeand Tower: Exhibition • Adm Kč70 Sep: 10am–10pm; Oct: 10am–9pm: Apr– Dec: 10am–6pm; & Mar Open Jan–Feb, Nov– Tower: 224220569; • • MaláStranaBridge MapJ4 Old TownBridge bridge’s history. an exhibitonthe Bridge Tower houses The MaláStrana Charles Bridge arléř Sign upfor DK’s emailnewsletter ontraveldk.com Gothic style. Thebridge’smostdistinguishingfeatureisitsgallery Gothic style. (see p13) builttheviaducttoreplaceitspredecessor, theJudith @ 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10 Features a nearby apologia, the Hebrew.to According among students of will causedouble-takes words “Holy, holy,holyis the Lord ofHosts” were added in1696, paidfor by alocalJewish man who hadbeenaccused of profaning thecross. From theparapet ofthe ! Old Town bridgetower, you canseethegentle S-curve thatthearchitectS-curve Peter Parléř builtinto the viaducttoobstruct invaders, aswell asa of thecity. jaw-dropping panorama St Luitgard,are Statue of the Statue ofthe Antonin Statue ofStLuitgard OurLadyoftheMangles Statue ofBruncvik Statue ofStsCyril and Statue ofStJohn of The Lorraine Cross Calvary Old Town Bridge Tower Trinitarian Order Methodius Nepomuk This statue This Calvary Bridge Tower Old Town (Karlův most)haswitnessedmorethan (right)

said thatifyou wish onthe cross thewishwillcometrue. is abrasscrosswhereJohn Nepomuk’s bodywas thrown into theriver # Halfway acrossthebridge The Lorraine Cross (see p35) . Itis Prague’s Top 10 19 Antonín artists One of many of the Statue Order Trinitarian Statue of St Statue Luitgard Nicholas’s Church and Church Nicholas’s castle looming above. with the illuminated St similarly dramatic view, similarly dramatic view, evening stroll gives a stroll gives evening bridge tower. A late bridge tower. rises over the Old Town Town the Old rises over early hours as the sun It’s best seen in the It’s odd Dixieland jazz band. artists, tourists and the impassable throughout with crowded the day, When to Visit to Visit When Charles Bridge and During summer, increasingly year-round, nigh the bridge is well Canal) may be the key. Canal) may to the Čertovka (Devil’s (Devil’s to the Čertovka the devil. His proximity His proximity the devil. bridge, Antonín paints portraits of himself as selling work from the from the selling work guarding the cell. hence the bored Turk Turk hence the bored tians back their freedom; their freedom; tians back Crusades and buy Chris- and buy Crusades , retains a (below) timeless appeal. prisoners of war from the from the prisoners of war cruciﬁed Christ permitted Christ permitted cruciﬁed his wounds her to touch set up to ransom set up to ransom dream, in which the the dream, in which ( ) religious order was This * 1710 Brauns’ Matthias blind nun’s depiction of a is tied to an is tied to an Statue of of Statue Bruncvik Our Lady of the Mangles desperate hour. at the city’s most most at the city’s awaken and save Prague Prague and save awaken army are promised to to are promised army Arthur. Bruncvik and his and his Bruncvik Arthur. Czech’s answer to King to King answer Czech’s southern edge to see the southern edge to see the ^ the bridge’s over Peer stare too long. imminent death – don’t imminent death – don’t supposedly an omen of supposedly an omen of on the balcony below is is below on the balcony ancient tale of miraculous healing. Seeing the light go out (above) south of the bridge south of the bridge hanging on the house hanging on the house & portrait of MaryThe

$ % bring good luck; bring good luck; of Nepomuk in (right) in this statue Statue of Sts Statue petting the adjacent the adjacent petting National Awakening, National Awakening, Karel Dvořák created created Karel Dvořák the Czech and Slovak and Slovak the Czech are national heroes of are national heroes of old tradition, thought to to old tradition, thought Rubbing the brass relief brass relief the Rubbing brass dog is a new one. new brass dog is a Statue of St John Statue both nations to this day. both nations to this day. Greek missionaries who Greek missionaries who following independence. following diving into the river is an is an river diving into the brought both Christianity of the saint shown (right) of the saint shown 1928–1938 at the peak of at the peak of 1928–1938 Cyril & Methodius Cyril Czechoslovakia’s period of of period Czechoslovakia’s lands, Cyril and Methodius and Methodius lands, Cyril and the Cyrillic alphabet to alphabet to and the Cyrillic 20 Prague’s Top 10 Baroque buildingswasintendedtolureCzechsbacktheCatholicfaith. chapels coincidedwiththeCounterReformation,andoneofPrague’sfirst Incarnation. Constructionofthegrandiosechurchandsurrounding Loreto, Italy, believedtobethehousewhereVirginMaryreceived to fameandmostproudpossession:areplicaoftheoriginalSantaCasain ofthissparkling17th-century BaroquepilgrimagesiteisitsclaimAt theheart • 1–4:30pm Tue–Sun • • • • • Loreto entrance Adm Kč110 Adm Open9am–12:15pm, www.loreta.cz 220516740 Map A2 Loretánské náměstí7 Ministry building. the former Interior the secret policeat people tortured by 2, isamonumentto Loreto, atKapucínská corner from the Just around the The Loreto Share your travelrecommendations ontraveldk.com the outsideofthisreplica of theHolyFamily’s This squareissaidto ! @ house inNazarethdepict have beenapaganburial scenes fromthe Virgin façade oftheLoreto stucco ground. The Mary’s life. Insideis the (above) of OurLadyLoreto. miracle-working statue home of the Ministry of home oftheMinistry Černín Palace opposite, Foreign Affairs. 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10 Features 0 9 8 7 St Wilgifortis Altar Arcade Outer Courtyard Belltower Santa Casa Loretánské náměstí Diamond Monstrance Treasury ofSSFelissimus Altars Church oftheNativity and Marcia náměstí Loretánské The stucco reliefson Santa Casa isdwarfed by the the gift ofaPrague merchant whose daughterwas healed by theintercessionof Lady ofLoreto. An automated mechanism chimes aMarian £ hymn everyhour. The carillon(below) was Belltower Prague’s Top 10 21 Diamond Monstrance Treasury Communists The the truest represen- the truest tation of the original. is believed to be is believed (below) Europe – the Prague site Europe – the Prague started emerging all over started emerging all over Marian cult spread, copies of the Loreto to Loreto, Italy. As the As Italy. to Loreto, family moved the house moved family tury, the Greek Angeli tury, the Greek of God. In the 13th cen- of God. In the 13th would conceive the Son conceive would Virgin MaryVirgin that she have announced to the have Nazareth house in the archangel which to Gabriel is believed Santa Casa Santa the The Casa was ness beyond the grave.” ness beyond “cheap promise of happi- “cheap peasants were brought brought peasants were to obedience with this items to show how how items to show sacred gold and silver sacred gold and silver crafted this exhibit of of this exhibit crafted host in the receptacle. son, represented by the the son, represented by with 6,222 diamonds. with 6,222 diamonds. looks up at her Virgin The Johann Bernard Fischer Fischer Bernard Johann is covered Erlach von ) by work silver The ( Inner Courtyard $ In the inner visitors courtyard, can admire two fountains. Baroque fountain north The a sculpture features of the Resurrection; the south, the of the Assumption MaryVirgin (right). 6 Altars of SS Felicissimus Church of the Church Nativity 5 benefactors. over a crypt to Loreto over stands opposite the altar, stands opposite the altar, 1717. The Rococo organ organ Rococo The 1717. reliquary displays containing the remains of these two Spanish saints. into its present size in in into its present size the Nativity are large the church was expanded expanded was the church altar in the Church of of altar in the Church behind the Santa Casa, * On either side of the & Originally a small alcove and Marcia 4 2 3 1 7 8 4 90 Plan of The Loreto Plan of

St Wilgifortis St Wilgifortis Altar Before and after and after Before Arcade

and Our Lady of Sorrows. Rood, St Antony of Padua of Padua Antony St Rood, Francis Seraphim, the Seraphim, the Francis the Holy Holy Family, its chapels of St Anne, St Anne, St of St its chapels masculine appearance to masculine appearance to preserve her chastity. by the sight of a cruciﬁed, the sight of a cruciﬁed, by pilgrims passed through pilgrims passed through at the arcade and prayed maiden who prayed for a a for maiden who prayed bearded woman. St Wilgi- St bearded woman. of Sorrows is dominated is dominated of Sorrows visiting the Santa Casa, fortis was a Portuguese a Portuguese was fortis

^ Chapel of Our Lady The % 22 Prague’s Top 10 and you’llgetasenseofnoblelivesoncelived. place in1787, stone datingfrom1439.Thefinalburialtook 200,000,withtheoldesthead- in layers–estimatesputthenumberatabout sites availabletoPrague’sJews,whentheplotwasfull,graveswerebuiltup Prague’s onceconsiderableJewishcommunity. Asthiswasoneoffewburial The crumblingimageoftheOldJewishCemeteryisamoving memorialto Rabbi Loew’s Grave Adm Kč200 (to 5pmNov–Mar) 9:30am–6pm Sun–Fri Pařižská, MapK3,Open • various synagogues) (includes entranceto holidays,Kč300 Adm 4:30pm; ClosedJewish Sun–Fri; Nov– Mar:9am– 9am–6pm Open Apr–Oct: www.jewishmuseum.cz, Map K3,224819456, hřbitovaU Starého 3, • Old-New Synagogue: OldJewish Cemetery: cemetery free viewofthe an excellent crowd- facing windows offer east- Decorative Arts’ The Museumof leave. return itwhenyou the entrance, but Look for themnear in thesynagogues. yarmulka (skullcap) men to wear a It iscustomary for Old JewishCemetery Sign upfor DK’s emailnewsletter ontraveldk.com (see p37) but strollthroughtheenclosure . 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10 Features The burialsiteofone £ Mordecai Maisel(1528– @ Loew benBezalel (1520– figures, Rabbi Jehuda Prague’s majorJewish 1601) was ghetto mayor 1609), andcreatorofthe during thereignof Golem (seep52). Rudolf II,andfundedthe synagogue thatbearshis name (seep100). The oldestgrave isthat ! of thispoetandscholar, best known for his pogrom of1389, which ofthedocumentation he survived. Nephele Mound Zemach Graves HendlBashevi’s Grave Gothic Tombstones Rabbi Oppenheim’s Grave Klausen Synagogue David Gans’s Tombstone Rabbi Loew’s Grave MordecaiMaisel’s Grave Avigdor Kara’s Grave Loew’s Grave Rabbi Grave Maisel’s Mordecai Kara’s Grave Kara’s Avigdor of theKlausenSynagogue commissioned thebuilding (left) onthecemetery’s northern edge.Itnow houses exhibitions onJewish festivals andtraditions. % A pupilofRabbi Loew, Gans $ (1541–1613) was theauthor of aseminaltwo-volume history oftheJewishhistory people. He was alsoanaccom- during thetimeof plished astronomer his faith. his nameand David, after ofthe Star marked with (right) is headstone (see p35).His Johannes Kepler Mordechai Maiselalso Klausen Synagogue Tombstone David Gans’s Prague’s Top 10 23 1 0 7 (matzevah) (matzevah) 4 5 9 6 8 Zemach Graves to the Pinkas Next Nephele Mound Stillborn children, 2 tombstone, for example. tombstone, for in German). Some are also professions represented: scissors appear on a tailor’s may David Gans’s tombstone Gans’s David a goose (gans features Germanic translations – deceased’s lineage. deceased’s Names are often animals, by symbolized according to Biblical or precedent or Hebrew grave-markers in the grave-markers CemeteryOld Jewish included symbolic often images indicating the to these basics, the and eulogy. In addition and eulogy. tombstone contains the deceased’s name, date of death Grave Symbols a Hebrew a rule, As 3 “spring” in Hebrew. The name Zemach means name Zemach The corner of the cemetery. his son Bezalel (d. 1589). 1589). (d. his son Bezalel buried in the southeast a square gravestone a square gravestone Zemach where Mordechai is buried with (d. 1592) old were under a year is is (see p101) Synagogue babies and miscarried who died other infants ( ) Plan of the Old Jewish Cemetery Entrance Hendl Bashevi’s Hendl Bashevi’s Grave Rabbi Oppenheim’s Oppenheim’s Rabbi Grave * elaborate tombstone This marks the resting (below) place of the so-called Hendl Queen”, “Jewish Her husband, Bashevi. Bashevi, Jacob mayor knighted and was a coat of arms, permitted seen on his wife’s gravestone. where he died in 1736. where he died and finally of Prague, and finally of Prague, chief rabbi of Bohemia rabbi of Bohemia chief rabbi of Moravia, and later and later rabbi of Moravia, ^ Oppenheim David Rabbi the first chief was (left) street. street. rescued in 1866 rescued in 1866

Gothic Tombstones

the 1990s. site were uncovered in in uncovered site were from another graveyard near Vladislavova Further graves at another graves Further cemetery holds fragments of Gothic tombstones (above)

The eastern wall of the of the eastern wall The & 24 Prague’s Top 10 late 13th century. synagogue’s construction inthe pp28–9), anddatefromthe nearby St Agnes’s Convent and grapemotifs,alsofound in The features tympanum foliage which arekept intheholyark. eastern wall arethe Torah scrolls, Temple ofJerusalem. on thefaçade columnsofthe Two centralpillars aremodelled abbreviation ofBiblicalverses. are unadorned,save for the line theperimeterwalls, which evoking the12 tribesofIsrael, £ the legend“ShemaYisroel” hat withinasix-pointed and star 1716 original,featuring aJewish above theBimahreplicatesa autonomy. The copy hanging asasymbolofitscentury permitted abannerinthe15th wascommunity Prague’s Jewish @ synagogue’s history. throughout the Prague’s chief rabbis forbeen reserved eastern wall has chair found by the of David, thetall Topped withaStar ! Left $ Façade Centre Chair Rabbi Loew’s Behind onthe thecurtain Ark Twelve narrow windows, Nave Standard Jewish Features intheOld-NewSynagogue For morePlaces of Worship Vaulting Right Nave (see . Rabbi Loew’s Chair

See pp38–9 them tofollow theservices. openings inthewall allowed but satinthevestibule. Narrow in thenave ofthesynagogue, read Hebrew (seep99). clockwise –orclockwise, ifyou façade clock’s handsrun counter- is theJewish Town Hall. The synagogue’s largesaddleroof. Golem (seep52)underthe Loew theremainsof stashed performs wedding ceremonies. rabbi readsthe Torah and in thecentre.From herethe & ) ( * with vineleaves andivy. to thenave’s vaulting,decorated Women were not permitted Women’s Windows Adjacent tothesynagogue Josefov Town Hall Legend hasitthatRabbi Attic onthisdaisA pulpitstands Bimah fifth ribwas added ^ % sign ofthecross,a the synagogue. entering andleaving ished worshippers all mankind”admon- For thisappliesto His commandments! God andobserve inscription “Revere To avoid the Vaulting The Biblical Entrance Prague’s Top 10 25 , the 1938 , the 1938 (see p44) Prague’s Jews have been plagued by anti-SemiticPrague’s Jews have since their arrival in the 10th behaviour almost an early destroyed Christians Zealous century. is now Malá Strana. Such settlement in what not uncommon – the most infamous pogroms were in which rioters slaughter of 1389, is the Passover who 3,000 Jews, including those killed more than But Synagogue. had taken refuge in the Old-New Jews – notably there were high points. Prominent influence Maisel – enjoyed and Mordecai Rabbi Loew in Rudolf II’s court; Charles VI recognized the commu- descendant Joseph II his nity’s autonomy in 1716; and, in the ended many discriminatory measures; the National Jews were active in century, late 19th Revival. But anti-Semitism still lurked. In 1899, accused of ritual murder; his Hilsner was Leopold Masaryk, future presi- Garrigue counsel was Tomáš Although the dent of independent Czechoslovakia. age for Czech Jews, interwar years were a golden among them Franz Kafka Munich Agreement gave Hitler possession of Czech Munich Agreement gave Hitler was restricted to a lands, and the Jews’ freedom ghetto, before being deported to concentration were turned into archives for camps. Synagogues looted Jewish artifacts. Hitler reportedly even planned By to create a museum of an extinct race in Josefov. the end of the war nearly 80,000 Bohemian and Moravian Jews had died in the Holocaust. The Jews in Prague Jews The Rapoport (1790–1867) Rapoport (b. 1942) Oppenheim (1664–1736) Landau (1713–93) Aaron of Luntshits (1550–1619) Delmedigo (1591–1655) (1528–1601) (1530–1612) Jaffe Ashkenazi (1512–85) Ashkenazi (1520–1609) Lieb Solomon Judah Efraim Karol Sidon David ben Abraham ben David Yehuda ben Yechezkel Ephraim Solomon ben Solomon Joseph Mordecai Maisel Mordecai Abraham ben Mordecai Elijah ben Eliezer ben Bezalel Loew Judah During World War War II, During World were Jews Prague’s called to a town moved where religious Terezín, banned. practices were Prague Ghetto Prague 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10 Jewish 10 Top Leaders Father and son moving their belongings to the “ghetto” of Terezín of “ghetto” the to their belongings and son moving Father 26 Prague’s Top 10 from the19th, 20thand21st centuries. isaricharrayofinternationalmasters Czech contributionstomodernart collectionwerelaunchedin1979.Gallery’s modernart Alongsideprominent fair complex,planstoturnthebuildingintohomeofNational eight-storey edificewhenhevisitedPraguein1928. Afteryearsasatrade Functionalist buildinginEurope,andevenLe Corbusierwasimpressedbythe austere Veletržní initself.Itwasthefirstofficial Palace isadaringworkofart NouveaubuildingsofHolešovice, theSurrounded bythedecorativeArt • • Tue–Sun • • • • Holešovice Dukelských hrdinu 47, Veletržní Palace façade Adm Kč200 Adm Dis.access Open10am–6pm www.ngprague.cz 224301122 MapB5 on thethird floor. on thesepages are The exhibitsshown details the Prague Post for galleries listingsof Check theweekly short-term exhibits. The firstfloorhouses Internet café. doubles asan ground flooralso The café onthe National Gallery (see p128). For detailsof otherNationalGallery sitesinPrague 3 2 1 Top 10 Paintings 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 ! art was begunin1923, whenCzech president Tomáš Masaryk helpedfound asmallcollection. Masaryk This bright landscape (above) original 25pieces. Paul Gaugín’s simple,flat @ was self-portrait (right)was originally paintedasa decoration for the lower panel ofadining-roomdoor for ahouseinBrittany. The French artistmadethis much-admired 19th-century enlarged copy in1889. Rider Jaguar Attacking a Bonjour, Monsieur Gauguin House in Aix-en-Provence Anxiety Self Portrait Myself, SelfPortrait AttheMoulinRouge Headofa Young Girl StJohn theBaptist Green Wheat Horseman The NationalGallery’s impressive collectionofFrench House in Aix-en-Provence Monsieur Gauguin Bonjour, by Paul Cézanne was oneofthose Entrance Seep36 0 Prague’s Top 10 27 captures the the captures Self Portrait Picassos One of 14 Anxiety Gutfreund paved Otto Myself, Myself, Self Portrait fire in 1974 and reopened fire in 1974 was badly damaged by badly damaged by was to the public in 1995. lic’s 10th anniversary. It anniversary. 10th lic’s in 1928 on the Repub- in 1928 Veletržní Palace opened Palace Veletržní the existing Veletržní Veletržní the existing completed; was Palace other planned buildings due materialized never of funding. to a lack architects Oldřich Týl Týl Oldřich architects Only Fuchs. and Josef A design competition of selected the work complex began in 1924. began in 1924. complex Functionalism a trade fair Plans for Iberian art and sculpture. the almond-shaped eyes the almond-shaped eyes and triangular nose testify to the influence of donated by former former donated by National Museum director 1960, Kramář in Vincenc ( the early 20th century. the way for modern Czech modern Czech for the way sculpture. This This sculpture. bronze (above) apprehension of man in self-assured personality. background Henri Henri background self portrait Rousseau’s as a depicts the artist ) * Withof elements in the modern civilization the right hand. At the Moulin Rouge Head of a Girl Young dominant gesture of of dominant gesture St John the Baptist St John 1878 Rodin’s Auguste turned away from the from the away turned the background. is one of the figures in is one of the figures in Jane Avril. Oscar Wilde Oscar Avril. Jane women is his muse, is his muse, women tempura on cardboard. tempura on cardboard. One of the dancing nightlife such as this oil this oil as such nightlife & thrived Toulouse-Lautrec on depictions of Paris collection in 1935. Laurens’ bronze to its to its bronze Laurens’ National Gallery added form and beauty. The The and beauty. form the Classical ideal of the Classical ideal of synthesis of Cubism and synthesis of Cubism and Laurens’ sculpture is a is a sculpture Laurens’ ^ Henri Created in 1926, ting trunk, to the head head to the ting trunk, anchored feet, to the rota- feet, anchored tension of the firmly tension of the firmly of spiral motion, from the of spiral motion, from the is a study is a study (below) sculpture % motion. 3 5 colour and colour and 4 interaction of interaction of 9 8 7 2 striking for its its striking for

1 research, and is and is research, Rider Jaguar Jaguar Rider a Attacking Van Gogh’s encoun- Gogh’s Van Green Wheat Green

ﬁne example of such of such ﬁne example 6 is a (right) is a from 1853

Delacroix often visited visited Delacroix often predatory zoos to study animals whose inspired movement small canvas This him. £ Horseman . landscape (below) canvases such as this this as such canvases he began to create bright he began to create bright side of southern France, side of southern France, Charmed by the country-Charmed by

ter with Impressionism ter with Impressionism moment. a decisive was $ 28 Prague’s Top 10 of medievalandearlyRenaissanceart. by theNationalGallerytoexhibititscollection its originalsplendour, theconventisnowused to todothesame.Restoredin1980s efforts convent whichraisedBohemiaintheeyesofRome,asmuchanycourtly of StFrancis.ButitwasAgnes’s diplomaticskillsandworkinestablishingthe here in1234forthePoor Clares,anorderofnunsassociatedwiththeOrder Přemysl OtakarI,PrincessAgnes choseaspirituallifeandfoundedconvent impressive Gothicbuilding,closelytiedtoCzechstatehood.Daughterof The 13th-centuryConventofStAgnes ofBohemia Convent façade • • Tue–Sun • • • • • Adm Kč150 Adm Dis.access Open10am–6pm www.ngprague.cz 224810628 MapM1 U Milosrdných 17 Gothic spaces. appreciate thepure the opportunity to concerts give visitors chamber music empty, butfrequent convent buildingis ground floorofthe exhibitions, the of short-term With theexception St Agnes’sConvent Share your travelrecommendations ontraveldk.com year-old statue This larger-than-life, 700- ! the Virgin andChildisthe The gestures ofthe most prized possession. Czech NationalGallery’s rigid, andevoke the Madonna arestrikingly found inplacessuch as Classical French sculpture Reims Cathedral. 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Top 10 Works ofArt Apocalypse Cycle Puchner Altarpiece ofStFlorian Martyrdom Velhartice Altarpiece Capuchin Cycle Třeboň Altarpiece Works ofMaster Vyšší Brod Altarpiece Zbraslav Madonna Strakonice Madonna Theodoricus Madonna Strakonice (below) of celebrated Marianpaintingis evocative ofByzantineicons in its style. in itsstyle. The ringonthe marriage betweenChristand through themystical symbolizes the Church Madonna’s left-hand finger the Virgin Mary. The work @ has beenmoved toSt Agnes’s Convent froma Cistercian monastery where Cistercian monastery the majority ofthePřemyslidthe majority kings were laidtorest. (Klášter sv. Anežky) isan Bohemia’s most Zbraslav Madonna Prague’s Top 10 29 . 2 1 6 7 (see p35) 9 Entrance 5 3 4 Apocalypse Cycle Although he’s Puchner Puchner Altarpiece tion began later, the Velvet Revolu- Velvet the later, canonized her; five days days her; five canonized Pope John Paul II Paul John Pope later when, in 1989, later when, in 1989, hood was felt centuries centuries felt hood was influence on Czech state- influence on Czech housed there. Agnes Agnes housed there. but her died in 1282, priceless relics to be sor Innocent IV sent convent and his succes- convent medieval politics. Pope politics. Pope medieval Gregory IX granted special privileges to her was a powerful figure in a powerful was St Agnes of Bohemia Agnes St 8 strong Gothic flavour. ) , which retain a , which (below) from 1498 series of 15 woodcuts such as this as this such woodcuts probably best known for for probably best known considered the foremost considered the foremost German Renaissance Dürer is Albrecht artist, on this 15th-century on this 15th-century altarpiece. depicted nursing the sick depicted nursing the sick vocation. She is typically She is typically vocation. court to pursue a spiritual court to pursue a spiritual ( at up a life gave Agnes St 0 Floorplan of Floorplan St Agnes’ Convent . Beneath the the . Beneath Velhartice Velhartice Altarpiece Capuchin Cycle Capuchin 14 origin of these The Martyrdom of Martyrdom St Florian Madonna, cherubs hold hold Madonna, cherubs icon. the vera a completely preserved altar (above) Originating in south Originating in south around 1500, Bohemia of this is a rare example & ^ Christ on the right. St Peter on the left and and on the left St Peter Virgin Mary is flanked by MaryVirgin by is flanked panels is unknown. The The panels is unknown. series are in Florence. Other pieces from the Other pieces from the featuring scenes from scenes from featuring the legend of St Florian. part of a multipanel altar Albrecht Altdorfer Altdorfer Albrecht created this painting as *

St St St Charle- St Ambrose St Catherine, have sur- (right) have

St Gregory. , St Luke Třeboň Altarpiece Třeboň Only three of the ﬁve Works of Master of Master Works Theodoricus Vyšší Brod Brod Vyšší Altarpiece

vived to the present day. vived 14th-century Třebon Altar- Třebon 14th-century piece

double-sided panels of the % and , Matthew magne, are

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, then Annunciation, then the proceeds through of the Magi Adoration to Pentecost (below) of creator The (right). £ 14th-century The begins with the cycle 30 Prague’s Top 10 celebrate theendofCommunism whencrowdsgatheredto most recentwasin1989, the time.Oftensceneofhistoricevents, byCzecharchitectsof Nouveau façadesillustratetheembracingofthisstyle buildings seentodaydatefromtheearly20thcentury, andtheirbeautifulArt oftheWenceslas Square,inhonourofBohemia’spatronsaint.Themajority century, fastbecomingthecommercialhubofPrague–in1848 itwasrenamed This formermedievalhorsemarketbegantoberedevelopedinthe19th • the NationalMuseum St Wenceslas Statueand MapN5 square’s north end. cially wary atthe pockets. Beespe- home to many pick- Wenceslas Square is volume oftourists, Owing to thehigh charming café. over acoffee inits of theHotel Evropa Enjoy thefaded glory Wenceslas Square Sign upfor DK’s emailnewsletter ontraveldk.com troops shelledtheNeo- 1968, assumingitwas the Renaissance building in small entry feesmall entry isworth it,if Czechoslovak Parliament. The 3 2 1 Top 10 Sights 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 ! only toseethemuseum’s pantheon ofCzech cultural (above) marble stairway ﬁgures (seep110). St Wenceslas Church ofOurLady Franciscan Gardens Svobodné slovo Balcony Hotel Evropa Palác Koruna Palác Lucerna Communist Memorial St Wenceslas Statue National Museum of theSnows InvadingPact Warsaw National Museum (see p35). and The Přemyslid princesits @ astride ahorseﬂanked by otherCzech patrons (below) inJosef Myslbek’s 1912 sculpture. The area “under the tail” isa“under thetail” traditional meetingplace. Statue St Wenceslas

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1$ 3Ě.23Ü Ě-1$ 10Ü67 -81*0$11292 Svobodné slovo slovo Svobodné Balcony Hotel Hotel Evropa Franciscan Franciscan Gardens original decor (see p78). original façade and some some and original façade preserves 25 (below) its crowds knew that that knew crowds over. Communism was Nouveau building at No. at No. building Nouveau Svobodné slovo of the Svobodné When building.newspaper Alexander the deposed Dubček joined him, the the years, but the Art Art but the the years, & Velvet During the (see p35), Revolution addressed Havel Václav pro-democracy demon- strators from the balcony It’s gone to seed over to seed over gone It’s ^ bustle of Wenceslas Wenceslas bustle of Square, these former monastery gardens much-needed provide peace from downtown. * from the throw A stone’s

Palác Koruna Palác “Geometric Built in Palác Lucerna Palác Václav President Communist Communist Memorial

Shopping Centre, which Shopping Centre, which luxuryhas many stores. home to Koruna Palace Palace home to Koruna style baths. It is now style baths. It is now (right) this “palace” became home to Turkish- became home to

Modernist”style in 1912, Modernist”style in 1912, % invasion in 1968. invasion against the Warsaw Pact Pact Warsaw against the gallery, cinema, cafés, gallery, cinema, cafés, shops and a ballroom. who died in protest who died in protest is now home to an art home to an art is now , such as two men as two men , such (below) square’s western ﬂank. It ﬂank. It western square’s victims of Communism immense building on the immense building on the is a memorial to the to the is a memorial Havel’s grandfather grandfather Havel’s designed and built this

£ Wenceslas of St In front Petřín Hill Covered with forests, orchards and strolling lovers, Petřín Hill creates a soft counterpoint to the spires of Hradčany on the Vltava’s left bank. Rising more than 300 m (1,000 ft) above sea level, the area began life as a vineyard in @ Strahov Stadium the 15th century, but has been a public park It may be ugly, but since 1825. Early chronicles say it was the site Strahov Stadium (above) is the largest arena of its kind of pagan rituals to the god Perun, and believers in the world. It was built for still practise ancient rites here on 1 May each Sokol, a physical culture year. Above all, however, it is the perfect escape organisation, and used for gymnastic rallies. Today it when the city crowds become too much to bear. is a rock concert venue.

Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top Top 10 Features 1 Observation Tower 2 Strahov Stadium 3 Strahov Monastery 4 Mirror Labyrinth 5 Hunger Wall 6 Karel Hynech Mácha Strahov Monastery façade Statue 7 Church of St Michael Nebozízek restaurant 8 Štefánik’s Observatory (Petřínské sady 411) 9 offers spectacular Church of St Lawrence views of Prague. 0 Funicular

• Map C4 • Observation Tower: ! Observation Tower Open Apr–Sep: 10am– Modelled after the 10pm; Mar & Oct: Eiffel Tower in Paris, 10am–8pm; Nov–Feb: Petřín Hill’s Eiffelovka 10am–6pm, Adm, stands only one-quarter Dis. access as high as its inspiration, • Strahov Monastery; at 63.5 m (210 ft). It was www.strahovsky created for the Jubilee klaster.cz; Open 9am– Exposition of 1891. A noon, 1pm–5pm daily, climb of 299 stairs leads Adm to the viewing platform. • Mirror Labyrinth: Open Apr–Sep: 10am–10pm; Mar & Oct: 10am–8pm; Nov–Feb: 10am–6pm, Adm, Dis. access • Church of St Michael, Church of St Lawrence: Closed to the public • Štefánik’s Observatory: £ Strahov Monastery Open Oct–Mar: 6–8pm Founded in 1140, Strahov Tue–Fri, 11am–8pm Sat houses the nation’s oldest & Sun; Apr–Sep: 2–11pm books in the Strahov Library Tue–Fri, 11am–11pm Sat while still functioning as a & Sun, Adm, Dis. access monastery. The Theological • Funicular: Open 9am– Hall, with its frescoes and 11:20pm daily, Adm Kč26 statue of St John (above), is a must-see.

32 For more parks and gardens in Prague See pp40–41 Prague’s Top 10 33 ing the paper Funicular to save want If you Štefánik's Štefánik's Observatory St of Church Lawrence picture gallery. picture old books, ornate gospels, miniature as a Bibles as well Theological and Theological Philosophical Halls are being devoured by by being devoured in the On display acidity. Library today involves Library involves today preserv it from and preventing research at the Strahov at the Strahov research The majorityThe of the research at their library. at their library. research that the monks conduct local monasteries in but spared 1783, on the condition Strahov Josef II dissolved most II dissolved Josef 12th century, Strahov century, Strahov 12th Monastery has suffered fires, pillaging armies and totalitarian regimes. Since its founding in the Since its founding Strahov Monastery Exhibits in the 18th century. in the 18th rebuilt in Baroque style rebuilt in Baroque scientist and astronomer. It was century. 10th diplomat and co-founder co-founder diplomat and of the Czechoslovakian as a state, as well a pagan shrine in the who was a Slovak a Slovak who was the onion-domed Church on built of St Lawrence, ) * since 1928, Operating the observatory was M. Štefánik, named after ( is the labyrinth Facing outstanding views of outstanding of views the castle to the north. The cable car offers cable car offers The the hill and walk down. down. the hill and walk railway to the top of the top of to railway and take the funicular and take the funicular your breath, do as visitors visitors breath, do as your have done since 1890 since 1890 done have . . Church of St Church Michael Karel Hynech Hynech Karel Statue Mácha by a dammed river. by (above)feet it stood in was flooded flooded it stood in was lay flowers at his statue’s at his statue’s flowers lay when the Ukraine valley when the Ukraine valley Romantic poem “May” poem Romantic On 1 May, young lovers lovers young On 1 May, services, this lovely services, this lovely (above) church wooden to Prague moved was best loved for his his for best loved & No longer used for ^ poet, is a national Mácha

Hunger Wall Hunger wall 14th-century The After laughing at the at the laughing After Mirror Labyrinth Mirror

. (below) on Charles Bridge poor during a famine. of the Thirty Years’ War War of Years’ the Thirty its construction as a public its construction the project to feed works depicting the final battle final battle depicting the is said to have ordered ordered is said to have history with a diorama fortifications. Charles IV Charles IV fortifications. labyrinth, take in a bit of take in a bit of labyrinth, was originally originally was (below) southern part of the city’s distorting mirrors in the in the mirrors distorting

% $ Left Charles IV Right Encampment of Matthias, Rudolph II’s brother, 1608 Moments in History

Wenceslas Assassinated church and crown. The resulting ! The “Good King” (actually a animosity between Protestant prince) was the second Christian Czechs and German Catholics ruler of Czech lands, succeeding would rage for centuries. his grandfather Bořivoj. Wenceslas solidified ties with Reign of Rudolph II Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top Rome and with German mer- $ The melancholy emperor chants. Murdered by his brother (1576–1611) was not much good in 935, he was later canonized. as a statesman and was under threat from his ambitious Charles IV Becomes Holy brother, Matthias, but he was a @ Roman Emperor liberal benefactor of the arts and Grandson of an emperor and son sciences. Among his achieve- of a Přemyslid princess, Charles ments were the support of could hardly help rising to both Johannes Kepler’s studies of the Roman and Bohemian thrones planetary motion. He also in 1333. Prague became the seat promoted religious freedom. of imperial power under his reign, as well as an archbishopric Battle of White Mountain and the home of central Europe’s % The Protestant nobility and first university. the emperor continued to pro- voke each other until hostilities Hussite Wars broke into open war. Imperial £ After the Church Council at forces devastated the Czechs in Constance burned Catholic refor- the first battle of the Thirty Years’ mer Jan Hus at the stake in 1415 War in 1620. Czech lands were (see p15), his followers literally re-Catholicized, but resentment beat their ploughshares into against Vienna and Rome swords and rebelled against both continued to smoulder.

Independence ^ While World War I raged, National Revival leaders such as Tomáš Masaryk turned to the United States for support for an independent Czechoslovakia. As the war drew to a close in 1918, the republic of Czecho- Battle of White Mountain slovakia was born.

34 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com World War II Top 10 Historical & The First Republic had barely stretched its legs when the Figures Munich Agreement of 1938 gave ! St Agnes St Agnes (1211–82), Czech lands to Nazi Germany. Prague’s Top 10 devout sister of Wenceslas I, Nearly 80,000 Czechs died in the built a convent for the order Holocaust (see p25). After the of the Poor Clares (the female war, the nation exacted revenge counterpart of the Franciscans). by expelling its German citizens. @ St John of Nepomuk Wenceslas IV arrested Nepomuk (1340–93) over the election of an abbot and threw his body from Charles Bridge. £ Jan Hus Hus (1370–1415) preached against Church corruption and was burned as a heretic. Nazi parade, Wenceslas Square, 1939 $ Mordecai Maisel The Jewish mayor (1528– * Rise of Communism 1601) was one of the richest Grateful to the Red Army for men in Europe (see p22). liberating Prague in 1945, Czecho- slovakia gave Soviet Communism % Tycho de Brahe Astronomer at Rudolph’s the beneﬁt of the doubt in the court, Brahe (1546–1601) February 1948 elections. suffered a burst bladder when he refused to leave the ( Prague Spring emperor’s side at a banquet. In 1968 First Secretary ^ Edward Kelley and Alexandr Dubček introduced John Dee economic and social reforms that The English charlatans gained did not sit well with Moscow. Rudolph II’s trust by converting Warsaw-Pact tanks rolled lead into gold, but were more interested in necromancy. through Prague streets killing more than 100 protestors. & Johannes Kepler The German astronomer Velvet Revolution (1571–1630) pioneered studies of planetary motion. ) After 10 days of mass protests in 1989, the Communist * Albrecht von government bowed to the Wallenstein population’s indignation. Czechs Leader of the Catholics during the Thirty Years’ War, Wallen- proudly recall that not a window stein (1583–1634) built a vast was broken during the revolt. palace in Prague (see p86). ( Franz Kafka Prague’s best-known author (1883–1924) was largely unpub- lished in his lifetime (see p44). ) Emil Zátopek “The Locomotive” (1922– 2000) won three long-distance gold medals at the 1952 Olympic Games. Velvet Revolution celebrations

Flooding in August 2002 caused a great deal of damage to 35 many historic landmarks in Prague. Left National Gallery Right Prague Municipal Gallery Museums and Galleries National Gallery ! The National Gallery’s extensive art collection is spread throughout the city in six locations. Kinský Palace holds the prints and drawings Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top collection; St George’s Convent, 19th-century Czech art (see p9); St Agnes’s Convent (see pp28– 9), medieval art; Sternberg Palace, the Old Masters; Veletržní Palace, the modern and contemporary collections (see pp26–7); and Schwarzenberg Statue of Music, Rudolﬁnum Palace, Baroque art. d Kinský; Palace: Staroměstské náměstí 12, Map natural history collections M3 • Sternberg Palace: Hradčanské housed in the Neo-Renaissance náměstí 15, Map B2 • Schwarzenberg building at the top of Wenceslas Palace: Hradčanské náměstí 2, Map B2, Square (see p110). Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun, Adm Rudolfinum National Museum £ The “House of Artists” @ The National Museum’s hosts a wide range of temporary collections are also spread exhibitions, each running several throughout the country, but the months. If you’re at all a fan of ﬂagship site is the historical and contemporary art, it’s always worth a visit, whatever aspect they are covering at the time. d Alšovo nábřeží 12 • Map K2 • 221 714151 for tours • Dis. access • Adm

House of the $ Black Madonna One of the ﬁnest Cubist buildings in Europe, by Josef Gočár, the Black Madonna houses a permanent exhibition of Czech Cubism, focusing on the period 1910–1919. Much of the collection is from the National Gallery. d Ovocný Trh 19 • Map M4 • 224 211 746 • Open 10am– National Museum 6pm Tue–Sun • Dis. access • Adm

36 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com Prague Municipal Gallery % The city’s ﬁnest 20th- century Czech art collection is on display at the House of the Prague’s Top 10 Golden Ring, while the House at the Stone Bell and Old Town Hall (see pp16–17) are used for temporary exhibitions. d House at the Golden Ring: Týnská 6, Map M3, Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun, Adm • House at the Stone Bell: Staroměstské náměstí Carved chest, Museum of Decorative Arts 13, Map M3, Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun, Adm • www.ghmp.cz Jewish Museum & The museum’s collection of The Montanelli Gallery Judaic art is perhaps the world’s ^ This gallery exhibits largest, while other exhibits contemporary art by local and present the lives and history of international artists. Around Jews in Bohemia and Moravia. 30 exhibitions by individual artists The collection is spread out (Hugo Demartini, Radek Kratina, around the synagogues of Jitka Válová and others) have Josefov (see pp98–101). been organised at its Prague premises. The Montanelli Gallery Museum of is run by the DrAK Trust, with the * Decorative Arts aim of providing support for The museum has spiced up its works that are beneﬁcial to the collection of crystal, porcelain community and for cultural projects. and woodcarving with exhibitions d Nerudova 13 • Map C2 • 257 531220 of Czech fashion and other shows. d 17. listopadu 2 • Map L2 • Open 10am–6pm Wed–Sun, until 7pm Tue • Adm

National ( Technical Museum The ultimate how-things-work museum, with exhibitions on mining, telecommunications and transport. Get a guide to show you the coal mine in the base- ment. d Kostelní 42 • Map M3 • Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat–Sun • Adm

Public Transport ) Museum A celebration of more than 100 years of Prague’s transport systems, from horse-drawn carriages to the metro. d Patočkova 4 • Map A1 • Open House of the Black Madonna Apr–Nov: 9am–5pm Sat–Sun • Adm 37 38 Prague’s Top 10 came Jerusalem, fromwhencethey eventually have tobereturned to Legend hasitthatitsstoneswill reservation”meaning “with come fromtheHebrew building’s curiousnamemay inEurope. the oldest The this 740-year-old synagogue– in stillholdsservices community Czech worthies (seepp12–13). Nepomuk andscoresofother saints Wenceslas, John of the ﬁnalrestingplaceof Prague’s archbishops. It’s also Bohemian coronationsby was thesetting ofspectacular plete. Indays ofoldthecathedral more than600years tocom- architectural andtook styles isacombinationof with majesty, looming over thecastlecomplex @ ! Left Virgin Marystatue, Loreto Holocaustwall, Pinkas Synagogue St Vitus’s CathedralSt Vitus’s Prague’s Orthdox Jewish Old-New Synagogue The current building, (see pp24–5). Places ofWorship Share your travelrecommendations ontraveldk.com Al-Tenai, . Right Monument, Cathedral ofStsCyril andMethodius religious artifacts less monstrancesaswell asother holdsscoresofprice- treasury the Angel Gabriel. The Loreto receivedthe housewhereMary Casa–areproductionofSanta shrine tothe istheVirgin Mary Madonna, Church ofOurLadyBefore Týn (winter: 3–5pmonly Tue–Sun) •Dis.access M3 •Open10am–1pm, 3–5pm Tue–Sun £ clothes little manandchange his English Virgins lookafter the powers. The residentOrderof doll iscreditedwithmiraculous Jesus ofPrague. The wax baby the famed statue oftheInfant This Baroque church contains % p14). as theMadonnaseentoday between thetowers andrecastit gold Hussitechalice thatstood the Jesuits melteddown the During theCounter-Reformation, over Old Town Square’s houses. The Gothictowers of Týn loom $ Lady Before Týn Church ofOur At theheartofthiselaborate Loreto Victorious Church ofourLady d Staro Staro (see p83). městské náměstí14 •Map (see pp20–21). (see

Prague’s Top 10 39

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Prague’s Top 10 41

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^ % Wenceslas Square pavement and and Square pavement Wenceslas office join the pensioners and royal hunting park here in 1266. park here in 1266. hunting royal its A public garden since 1804, ice-skating in ponds are ideal for in winter and duck-feeding paths Its meandering summer. easy strolling offer founded in the 13th century. It is It is century. in the 13th founded trees fruit home to peacocks, of array and a heart-melting flowers 42 Prague’s Top 10 street inMaláStrana Nerudovaolder partsofthecity, matic addressesthroughoutthe you canstillfindsuch emble- of allegoricalsymbols. Although charming butconfusingsystem were known andlocatedby a the Vltava. Before that,homes from Vienna tothebanksof Habsburg traitoforderliness great onefor bringingthefamed Empress Maria Theresa was a identifying numbersuntil1770. ! Left TheTwo Suns name, BíláLabut’). department storeofthesame confused withthedowntown a goldengoose(nottobe these, andprobablyoriginatedas lost. The White Swan isoneof much oftheirmeaninghasbeen significance, althoughtoday many ofthemhadalchemical house signsinthecity. Originally has thehighestconcentrationof The GoldenKey Prague housesweren’t given Swan The White House Signs convenient routefrom theOld Town toPrague Castle. Apart fromstudying itsbeautiful housesigns,Nerudova isa Right

The RedLamb d Nerudova 49 (see p81)

façade. todaypreserved inthisbuilding’s advertise theirwares, as As such, they were entitledto castle’s GoldenLane colleagues wholived inthe fees unlike tothecity, their house inthe17th paid century, the oneswhoworked atthis shops. small artgalleriesandcraft today withthequarter’s many work. The connectioncontinues atmosphere ofMaláStranainhis conveyed area ofPrague, andNeruda this was thewriters’ andartists’ the streetisnamed. Traditionally Neruda (1834–91), after whom Czech poetandauthorJan birthplace ofthemuch-loved £ @ Castle goldsmiths,such as The GoldenKey This housewas the The Two Suns d d Nerudova 47 Nerudova 27 the Bohemian d $ idiosyncrasies. city’s many charming in placeasoneofthe matters –itremains explain it.Notthatit house owner can even thecurrent cance soarcane,not alchemical signiﬁ- façade hasan sheep adorningthis symbols, thescarlet street’s moreunlikely

Nerudova 11 One ofthe The RedLamb (see p9). Prague’s Top 10 43 Nerudova 43 Nerudova d

The Devil pops up as a cuddly Lucifer Lobster The Green were what they Who knows The Three The Three Fiddles trio a demonic say They Nerudova 12 Nerudova 4 Nerudova Nerudova 28 Nerudova The Three The Three Fiddles d ( d ) d * in some quarters – are more – are more quarters in some in the meditative interested however. of the art, aspects character on houses all over on houses all over character and in local legend, more a town than a sinister trickster folksy he’ll prince of darkness. Here, to dine at a not tempt you restaurant. completely infernal hung the thinking when they their door. above crustacean tryingProbably up with to keep the neighbours at the Pendant at No. 39. Parsnip screeches on their instruments their instruments on screeches The nights. here on moonlit of family home to a house was in the early 18th violin-makers century, and the sign advertised of the many their trade. Like it other buildings on this street, home to a restaurant. is now Nerudova 15 Nerudova

d Staroměstské náměsté d Another alchemical Another alchemical The Golden Wheel The Golden The Three The Three Lillies Although their image no St Wenceslas’s St Wenceslas’s Horse Clearly seen on the Old

St Wenceslas’s St Wenceslas’s Horse symbol, the wheel symbol, the wheel represents a stage in the magnum opus, the process by purportedly lead was which into gold. Modern day turned still exist they – yes, alchemists longer adorns the façade, the the longer adorns the façade, remain atop the three ﬂowers house also lends its The house. tale of name to a feverish passion and thunderstorms of Many Neruda. Jan by tales were the author’s as set in houses such this one.

Town Square on the façade of of Square on the façade Town House, this is a tribute Štorch both to the patron saint of and the blacksmiths Bohemia the who shod horses bound for castle. &

^ % Left Karel Čapek Centre Franz Kafka and his ﬁancé Right Václav Havel Writers and Composers Franz Kafka Wolfgang ! Although he wrote in German % Amadeus Mozart and almost none of his work was Prague and Vienna continue to published in his lifetime, Franz duel over the musical genius’s Kafka is Prague. Many of his legacy, with the Czechs always disturbing novels seem to claiming that Mozart loved them Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top foresee the Communist years. better. The composer premiered His peripatetic wanderings across his opera Don Giovanni in this city, brooding features and Prague’s Estates Theatre (see death by tuberculosis all add to p65) and Prague residents the mystique. mourned spectacularly upon his death in 1791. Regular Mozart Gustav Meyrink concerts are held in the city. @ Almost completely unknown outside Austria, Meyrink is Bedřich Smetana nevertheless responsible for one ^ The composer wrote his of the city’s most marketable opera Libuše, based on the notions: the Golem. He penned legendary princess, for the the story of the clay monster, reopening of Prague’s National that was supposedly locked up in Theatre in 1883. Smetana vies the Old-New Synagogue, in 1915 with Antonin Dvořák for the title and attributed its creation to the of best-loved Czech composer; real Rabbi Loew (see p52). the former’s ode to beer in The Bartered Bride gives him a Karel Čapek certain advantage. £ This Czech writer is best known for his science ﬁction and psychologically penetrating novels. With his 1920 play R.U.R. (Rossum’s Universal Robots) he gave the world a word for an automaton, based on a Czech word for “forced labour”.

Jaroslav Hašek $ A notorious joker and the author of the celebrated dig at the Austrian army, The Adventures of the Good Soldier Švejk, Hašek was also the creator of the satirical Party for Moderate Progress Within the Bounds of the Law. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart

44 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Prague’s Top 10 45 My Country are The Unbearable The Unbearable Lightness of Being Vltava Smetana’s New World Symphony ninth sym- With his 1893 the Peace Disturbing meditates on Havel Adventures of the Adventures Good Soldier Švejk Epic Slavonic Alfons master Art Nouveau R.U.R. science-fiction Čapek’s Grandmother Němcová Božena Author The Trial K. protagonist Joseph The The Castle on this Kafka worked ) non-linear tale of Kundera’s politics and the betrayals love, inherent in both. & * ( £ in so effective Hašek was and the sending up the army empire that Austro-Hungarian a hard time still have Czechs taking authority seriously. $ % ^ Top 10 Works of Art, Works 10 Top and Literature Music ! @ six tone poems celebrating six tone poems celebrating second follows The Bohemia. course. the river’s Communism and the values underlying Central Europe’s pursuit of democracy. Mucha celebrates the Czech celebrates the Czech Mucha artwork. past in this mythic of labour rela- is a study play tions and social structures. on her own based the narrator from whom she grandmother, of these stories. heard many of Kafka’s 1925 novel finds finds novel 1925 of Kafka’s of a crime he himself accused did not commit. alienation of social novel Castle’s while living in Prague Golden Lane (see p9). phony, Dvořák incorporated incorporated Dvořák phony, songs. folk the style of black New World World New

Milan Kundera a love-hate have Czechs Václav Havel Václav president was Czech The Bohumil Hrabal author used to sit poetic The Antonín Dvořák Antonín as his such works, Dvořák’s

absurdist works and his fame and his fame absurdist works international atten- helped draw struggles. tion to his country’s )

( * Antonín Dvořák Antonín & relationship with their best- contemporaryknown author. Since his emigration to France, to do with had little has Kundera country, writing his native even His works in French. his novels convey acomic skepticism. known as a playwright before he he before a playwright as known became a civil rights activist Pact Warsaw protesting the (see p35). His in 1968 invasion in the Old Town pub U Zlatého pub U Zlatého Town in the Old tygra (see p60), taking the down stories he heard there. He died his hospital-room from falling 1997. in window , regularly Dances, regularly Slavonic music. He incorporate folk composed his ﬁnal while he was director director while he was Symphony of the National Conservatory in City. York New Left Mission Impossible Right Kolya Film Locations

Mission: Impossible £ Cars explode on Kampa Island, restaurants explode on the Old Town Square. The opulent party in the thriller’s opening scene takes place in the Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top National Museum, in this 1996 sci-fi fantasy starring Tom Cruise. $ Les Misérables Amadeus Jean Valjean, played by Liam Neeson, fled from the gendarme Amadeus on Hradčanské náměstí through ! As a drunken Wolfgang Prague sewers in the 1998 re- Amadeus Mozart, Tom Hulce make of this classic tale. Neeson staggered through Malá Strana’s also fled from fans at Molly narrow Thunovská alley in Miloš Malone’s Irish pub. Forman’s Academy Award- winning 1984 interpretation of The Shooter Peter Shaffer’s successful play. % In a chase scene, Dolph Prague was a well chosen Lundgren leaps from a rooftop at location for the film, since Prague Castle and lands, Mozart’s Don Giovanni debuted miraculously, on the National at the Estates Theatre (see p65), Theatre; Prague audiences were and Praguers are intensely proud unimpressed by this lack of of the association. authenticity in 1995.

The Unbearable @ Lightness of Being Daniel Day Lewis and Juliette Binoche played an unhappily married couple living on Radnické schody during the 1968 Warsaw Pact invasion, in the 1988 ﬁlm adaptation of Milan Kundera’s dark novel about love, relation- ships and betrayal (see p45). Les Misérables

46 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com Prague’s Top 10 47 (1975) (1975) One Flew One Flew (1996). Kolya Daisies (1966). (1932) it it Ecstasy (1932) of grande dame of Amadeus. Ivan Reitman Ivan US-based, now Reitman, Petr Zelenka Petr focuses turk young This Menzel Jiří the country’s won Menzel Chytilová Věra The Vachek Karel creates rambling Vachek Jan and Eva and Eva Jan Švankmajer Gene Deitch a little-known was Deitch Machatý Gustav Slovak When a young Miloš Forman Award- Academy The Jan Svěrák director is young This ) ^ & * ( £ films in creates Director Jan Surrealist Eva’s his wife which animated objects come to life. $ % Top 10 Czech 10 Top Filmmakers ! @ is best known for directing directing for is best known the hit Ghostbusters. on oddballs in films such as as on oddballs in films such (2000). Loners with Award first Academy . Trains Closely Watched capture documentaries which politics. the absurdity of Czech animator before he took a job took a job he animator before producing films in Communist in love He fell Czechoslovakia. with the city and stayed. her clothes in actress took off Machatý’s became the first film to nudity; the actress feature became Hedy Lamarr. – her cinematography Czech best film is winning director of winning director Nest the Cuckoo’s Over to his homeland to returned film filmmaking carrying Czech into the 21st century with as films such

The Chronicles of Narnia: of Narnia: The Chronicles Caspian Prince The Bourne Identity The Bourne near Jindřišská and Panská In 1996 Jan Svěrák cast his cast his Svěrák Jan In 1996 Kolya Plunkett and Macleane Plunkett Miller and Robert Lee Jonny The Hughes brothers turned Hughes brothers turned The From Hell From

In 2007 sets for Miraz’s Castle Castle Miraz’s In 2007 sets for and the underground hiding places of the Narnians were Studios. created at Barrandov )

( *

& ^ Wenceslas Square serve as Wenceslas in this 2002 film adapta- Zurich novel. Ludlum’s tion of Robert father Zdeněk as the grumpy, as the grumpy, Zdeněk father philandering cellist who restores Olšanská cemetery tombstones five-year-old The in his free time. Anděl gets lost in title character metro station (see p49). Carlyle blunderbuss their way up up Carlyle blunderbuss their way Locals Thunovská. and down as 18th-century used were production. the 1999 for extras Saská Alley near Charles Bridge near Charles Bridge Alley Saská and other Malá Strana locations foggy the Ripper’s into Jack Off-screen, in 2001. London Depp retreated to the Johnny smoky of the Blue Light depths bar on Josefská. The Unbearable Lightness of Being The Unbearable 48 Prague’s Top 10 centre for the AC Sparta asatraining serves stadium in Czechoslovakia. Today, the the firstconcrete panel building performances, physicalspartakiáda culture 1955 for thepurposesof situated onPetřín Hill.Builtin inside thismassive arena clear day (seep117). (705-ft) tower on a isspectacular from thetopof216-m view ofPrague’s skyline design,however,utilitarian the nefarious radiation.Despiteits jam foreign radiosignalsoremit intended, accordingtorumour, to built in1985–92, andwas building amongPraguers was history. of Czech andCzechoslovak asamuseummonument serves Revolution removed after the Velvet statue ofJan Žižka. They were atop Vítkov Hill, behindthegiant apparatchiks, were buriedhere those ofvarious other leader. Hisashes,aswell as forced tocrematetheirfavoured Communist government was his deathin1953, the President KlementGottwald after After afailed attempt toembalm @ ! Left £ • Open10am–6pm Tue–Sun Strahov Stadium Žižkov TV Tower TV Žižkov Prague Castlewould fit Strahov Stadium Vítkov Hill National Memorial onthe The city’s mosthated Communist Monuments d Share your travelrecommendations ontraveldk.com Vítkov Hill,Žižkov (see p35).Todaythe the structure was Right Anděl Metro Anděl • MapB6 delight oflocalkids performances here,much to the bands have alsoheld football team.Somepopular same spot. a statue ofhimselfonthevery Tour inPrague, unwisely erecting Jackson launched his1996 World in 1962. Pop Michael star of dramaticdynamiteexplosions the statue destroyed by aseries Khrushchevsuccessor Nikita had all over thecity. Stalin’s citizens, which was visiblefrom – backed by aqueueofadmiring –thelargestinworldStalin 14,000-ton statue ofJoseph swings oncestoodamassive, Novák’s giantmetronomenow $ Sbratření • Map E1 Where sculptor V. Karel Letná Plinth d Letenské sady,Letná (see p32).

Prague’s Top 10 49 Map B6 Map H5 • • Adm • hradská 12, Vinohrady Vinohrady hradská 12, New Building of the National Museum Museum of Communism seeks to help museum This Czech Radio Building Czech tanks invaded Warsaw-Pact Vinohradská 1, New Town Town 1, New Vinohradská Vino Vino Closed to the public daily Open 10am–6pm • ( in the its construction From split until Czechoslovakia 1970s republics and Slovak into Czech the Federal this was in 1993, building, Assembly and later Europe (1994–2009). Free Radio the building houses several Today, temporary but is still exhibitions in the process of being named. d • ) * d visitors experience totalita-visitors experience rianism ﬁrst-hand through reproductions and genuine objects from the Communist era. area is the chilling most The interrogation reconstructed Although locals might not room. agree, the tour is more fun than it sounds (see p37). the Czech capital in 1968 to put an capital in 1968 the Czech Prague Dubček’s Alexander end to Among those Spring liberalization. their resistance with who paid for Radio Czech were their lives ﬁrst broadcast the journalists, who under that the nation was news the A plaque in front of attack. building honours their bravery. Museum of Communism Map A6 Map d - Vrchlického Vrchlického d Map G4 Sbratření statue bronze This Anděl Metro of the In the reconstruction Congress Centre Congress Since its partial reconstruc- •

sady

& ^ Czech Radio Building Radio Czech % recalls the Red Army’s Army’s recalls the Red in liberation of Prague a grateful resis 1945: tance fighter greets a with footsoldier Soviet of lilac and a, a bunch presumably brotherly, of the one kiss. It’s monu- pro-Soviet few ments still standing in Prague. Anděl Centre, developers Anděl Centre, developers an epic mosaic tribute removed to the friendship between but from Prague, and Moscow you below, the metro platforms tributes to can still see frieze if Even cosmonauts. Soviet not riding the metro, you you’re to will need a standard ticket access the platform. tion in 2000, this is one of the of the tion in 2000, this is one centres most modern congress excellent The in Europe. Hall acoustics in the Congress this one of the best makes in the world, concert venues halls comparable to the famous Montreal and Boston. of London, centre has capacity close for The . visitors (see p121) to 10,000 Left Poster, Wax Museum Praha Right National Marionette Theatre Eccentric Prague Museum of Torture Wax Museum Praha ! Instruments £ Bohemia’s great figures all If you can’t quite grasp how come together in one happy these grisly instruments work, community here, with lifelike the helpful illustrations should waxwork representations of make their operation painfully Franz Kafka, Rudolf II and The Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top clear. More than 60 implements Good Soldier Švejk, making for a of pain from all over Europe are wonderful stroll through Czech on display, accompanied by history. The presence of Bill explanations in four languages. Clinton, Elton John, Tina Turner d Křižovnické námětí 1 • Map J4 • Open and other modern icons is a 10am–10pm daily (to 8pm in winter) • Adm little more difficult to fathom. d Melantrichova 5 • Map L4 • Open Rock Therapy 9am–8pm daily • Adm @ Subtitled “a Small Story From the Great Time of the Marionette Don Giovanni Beatles”, this non-verbal show $ Mozart premiered his opera uses film projection, music, Don Giovanni at Prague’s Estates dance and puppetry to present Theatre in 1787. Of the two “a loosely poetical black- marionette homages to the city’s theatrical production of the favourite opera, the better animated film Yellow Submarine”. production takes place at the It is, if nothing else, a unique National Marionette Theatre. The synthesis of various Czech theatre technique of the puppeteers is genres. Must be seen to be so masterful, you’ll leave looking believed, whether you’re a Beatles for strings attached to passers- fan or not. d Animato Theater, by. A true Prague experience Na Příkopě 10 • Map N5 • Adm (see p65).

Choco-Story % Museum This chocoholic’s delight is based on the well-known Chocolate Museum in Bruges, Belgium, and showcases the 2,600-year history of this delicacy, from the discovery of cocoa to modern production methods. Visitors will Museum of Torture Instruments also get the chance to

50 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com Disney tunes. Productions have included live folk dance troupes and a melodrama based on James Bond plots (see p116). d Výstaviště, Holešovice • Map B5 Prague’s Top 10

Marionette * Marriage of Figaro Choco-Story Museum Mozart’s comic opera adapts well to the grotesque puppets learn the secret to producing and the techniques of marionette silky chocolate and to sample theatre. It’s high art and, despite products made on the spot. the efforts of the expert d Celetná 10 • Map M4 • Open 10am– puppeteers, the illusion is a bit 7pm daily • Adm hard to maintain, but patient opera fans will enjoy the novelty. Sex Machine Museum d Staroměstské náměstí 12 • Map M3 ^ An exhibition in a slightly different sense, this is one show Marionette definitely not for the kids. The ( Orpheus et Euridice museum traces the history of Take an eternal tale of gratifying instruments from their humanity’s search for meaning origins to the modern day. While in the cycle of life, death and not entirely without cultural rebirth, add a century of Czech merit, the overall package is marionette tradition and a fuzzy rather bizarre. There is, predic- soundtrack, and mix well. tably, a gift shop. d Melantrichova 18 Watching the bemused audience • Map L4 • Open 10am–11pm daily • Adm is almost as much fun as the action on stage. d National Křižík Fountain Marionette Theatre: Žatecká 1 • Map L3 & Each summer evening, the fountain’s 50 pumps, 3,000 water Operetta jets and more than 1,200 lights ) The Czech love of operetta put on a dizzying display of hydro- knows no limits, except perhaps mechanic choreography. The the number of performers willing musical accompaniment ranges to take part in the latest rock from classical to heavy metal to opera at locations around town. It began with Romany and Juliette, proceeded to Dracula and is still going strong with a romp- ing Monte Cristo. Check The Prague Post for performance times (see p128). d Divadlo Broadway: Na Příkopě 31; Map N5 • Divadlo Ta Fantastika: Karlova 8; Map L4 • Hvdební Divadlo Karlín Křižík Fountain Křižíkova 10 • Map H2 51 Left The Golem Centre One-Armed Thief Right Emaus Monastery Haunted Places Witch Tour The Golem ! Every evening, this tour $ Rabbi Loew created his clay takes you through Prague’s robot to help out around the narrow alleys and unveils the dark house. When the creature raised stories behind them. Your guide a ruckus on the sabbath, Loew will take you to where executions was forced to deactivate him and Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top took place, explain local pagan stashed him in the attic of the religion and folklore, and discuss Old-New Synagogue (see p24). the city’s history of witchcraft and the secrets of the Old Town Hall’s The Iron Man Astronomical Clock (see p16). % Believing his fiancée had been untrue, a knight called off Turk in Ungelt his wedding. After she drowned @ Among the merchants who herself in grief, he realized his lived in the Týn settlement mistake and hanged himself. behind the Church of Our Lady Every 100 years he “appears” in (see p14) was a Turkish Platnéřská Street, hoping to find a immigrant. When his betrothed young virgin who will free him by ran off and married another, he talking to him for at least an hour. flew into a rage and chopped her head off. He is said to wander The Drowned Man around the Ungelt courtyard ^ When the bicycle was all the carrying the decapitated head. rage in the late 19th century, young Bobeř Říma stole one and One-Armed Thief rode it into the river. If a £ Rumour has it that a soggy young fellow tries to thief sought to steal jewels sell you a bike near the Old from a statue of the Town end of Charles Madonna in the Church of Bridge, just keep walking. St James (see p74), but the stony Virgin seized Emaus Devil him by the arm and & In an attempt to local butchers had bedevil the monks to cut him loose. at the Emaus According to Monastery, Satan some, he still took a job there haunts the as a cook and church asking seasoned their visitors to help food with pepper him fetch his and other spices. arm, which To this day, Czech hangs from the cuisine has few wall inside. The Iron Man piquant flavours.

52 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Prague’s Top 10 53 . (see p81) . (see p19) Czech Hippies Painted Hippies Painted Czech Wall Lennon the John Absinth Will You Make Crazy and Slovaks Czechs the Same Nation are the New is Prague Bank Left Jan Nepomuk Died Jan Bridge on Charles Masaryk Jan Suicide Committed Only One Bud There’s Budě- of České town The Czechs are Christian are Czechs to the last According CastleVyšehrad the ﬁrst seat was Vyšehrad in Lived Alchemists Golden Lane ) some the Revolution, After “the proclaimed Prague wag due to the of the ‘90s”, Paris number of free-loading expats. & the was image of Lennon The of a post-Communist work art student Mexican * in amount of wormwood The the drink is negligible. ( form Despite claims that they a single nation, the languages and mentalities are different. $ dead already Nepomuk was the over thrown when he was side % Minister the Foreign In 1948 dead in front of found was “fallen” having Černín Palace, according to from a window, the Communists. ^ Top 10 False Stories False 10 Top ! @ £ on tended to live Alchemists credit in houses in town. census, almost 59% of Czechs 59% of Czechs census, almost be atheists. proclaimed to but its importance of power, legend. by has been inﬂated jovice (Budweis in German) in German) (Budweis jovice producing beer before was but didn’t the US brewer, on the name. register copyright

The Mad Barber When a local barber Drahomíra mother was, Wenceslas’s St Apparently, Rudolph II’s II’s Apparently, Rudolph Werewolf

)

( * Werewolf foresook his home and family his home and family foresook he became caught up in after pursuits, his alchemical daughters ended up in a brothel He is killed herself. and his wife said to haunt the vicinity of streets, and Liliova Karlova to his honest hoping to return amends. and make profession by all accounts, an unpleasant an unpleasant all accounts, by killed her mother-in- She woman. done in her have and might law son, too, but the gates of hell she her up before swallowed could act. She sometimes wheels through Loretanská náměstí in a fiery carriage. gamekeeper became so became so gamekeeper that enamoured of the wolves Stag Moat roamed the castle’s that he became one himself. of he takes the form Nowadays, a large dog and tends to chase and tourists joggers cyclists, when the whim takes him, so shoulder. your over looking keep Left Mirror Maze entrance Right Gargoyle, St Vitus’s Cathedral Children’s Attractions Mirror Labyrinth Puppet Shows ! The warped mirrors lining £ Puppetry is a long-standing the walls here are great fun for Czech tradition, and late making faces, pointing fingers at afternoon shows will keep kids distended bellies and elongated entertained for up to an hour. bodies and giggling hysterically, There’s enough action that Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top whatever your age. For older younger folk usually don’t mind children interested in a bit of not understanding the libretto or gore and history combined, the narration. Weekend presenta- battle-scene diorama is another tions of well-known fairy tales at of the many attractions on Petřín the National Marionette Theatre Hill (see pp32–3). can fill up quickly, so book in advance (see p65). Swan Feeding @ Grab a bag of breadcrumbs Gargoyle-Spotting and head to the riverbank. $ It’s habit-forming. Give the Střelecký Ostrov is an ideal spot little ones their first taste finding to watch these graceful white faces on St Vitus’s Cathedral (see birds dip their necks in the water pp12–13) and they’ll have their to catch the morsels for heads pointed upwards for days. children’s delight. Take care that In addition to gargoyles, train little feet don’t go into the water your kids to spot the innumer- and mud, however, and make able statues, house signs (see sure that fingers don’t pp42–3) and strange faces that inadvertently get snapped in the adorn arches, cornices and feeding frenzy. Good for all gateways all over the city. Just seasons. d Map D4 take care that they don’t get stiff necks or stumble on uneven pavement surfaces.

White Tower % This is an entertaining spot at Prague Castle. Here they can shoot a real crossbow, pick out their favourite suit of armour and imagine the grisly goings-on in the torture chamber. Little people will have no trouble negotiating the low, narrow passages, but adults might. d Zlatá ulička, Prague Castle • Map C2 • Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm, Nov–Mar: Czech puppets 9am–4pm • Adm

54 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com Boat Trips * While adults might enjoy the old-fashioned (and more romantic) rowboats, children

prefer the splashing, pedalling Prague’s Top 10 action of the miniature paddleboats that travel up and down the Vltava. Numerous vendors rent boats and sell tickets in the vicinity of Charles Bridge (see pp18–19). Take all the usual precautions that no one goes overboard, accidentally or otherwise.

Black Light Theatre ( There is an abundance of Boat on the Vltava Black Light shows around the Old Town (see p65), but the best Historic Tram No. 91 is at Divadlo Ta Fantastika. So ^ The old-fashioned streetcar long as the kids don’t mind runs a circuit around the city in strange images suddenly about 30 minutes. A friendly popping out of the dark, the conductor will take your Kč35 brilliant displays should keep fare and you can hop on and off them mesmerized. d Divadlo Ta at any stop on the route, including Fantastika, Karlova 8 • Map K4 Malostranská and Národní divadlo (see p64). Very handy when you Křižík Fountain can’t face walking another step. ) First, bring a sweater. For those who are planning ahead, Second, don’t sit too close to the the end station is Výstaviště, water. Third, sit back and enjoy scene of more excitement. d Map the show. The dancing water-and- B5 • Mar–Nov: noon–5:35pm Sat & Sun light show’s musical • www.dpp.cz accompaniment varies from classical to pop to Disney tunes. Výstaviště The Prague Post (see p128) lists & In addition to Křižík Fountain, the programme in its weekly the Prague exhibition grounds calendar (see p116). are home to the Lunapark carnival: ferris wheels, roller- coasters and similar other rides will toss and turn the kids for hours, and, if they can still stomach it, there’s even candy ﬂoss (cotton candy). The fun begins in March and carries on through the warmer summer months (see p116). Lunapark Carnival, Výstaviště 55 Left Artěl Right Hračky Shops and Markets Dr Stuart’s Botanicus ! Here you’ll ﬁnd oils and salts for that hot bath your travel- weary feet crave, as well as perfumes, candles, soaps and every natural health and beauty Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top product you can imagine. Branches are scattered around town but the main one is off the Old Town Square (see p76). Art Deco

Artěl Art Deco @ Named after a group of $ Enter this shop ﬁlled with Bohemian artisans established in antique furnishings, vintage the early 1900s, Artěl has taken clothing and one-of-a-kind knick- the time-honoured art of knacks and you’ll feel you’ve glassmaking and, working hand stepped back into the First in hand with highly skilled Republic. Outﬁt yourself in Jazz- craftspeople, has created a Age style, right down to the collection of fresh, whimsical yet spats and cigarette holder, or elegant designs. d Celetná 29 dress up your parlour with an Art (entrance from Rybná) • Map N3 Nouveau clock or cordial set. d Michalská 21 • Map L5 Havelský trh £ The Old Town’s largest Cat’s Gallery outdoor market. Monday through % (Kočičí galerie) Friday, the stalls in front of St This delightful little shop in Havel are crowded with produce Týnská Street has vast collections as well as handicrafts and of mugs, magnets, pictures, textiles. The greengrocers stay paintings, sculptures and other away at weekends, leaving more items that all have one thing in room for souvenirs. d Havelský trh common – they depict cats in • Map M5 one form or another. This is a must-see for cat lovers and a great place to buy cat motif souvenirs and mementos. d Týnská 9 • Map M3

Czech Ceramics ^ (Česká Keramika) While walking from the Old Town Square to Celetná Street, set Dr Stuart’s Botanicus aside the time to stop at this

56 For tips on shopping in Prague See p132 small shop, where every item on display is a testimony to Czech traditional arts and crafts. d Celetná 4 • Map M4 Prague’s Top 10 Dorotheum & Dorotheum offices throughout the world trace their roots back to the Vienna Blue pawnbroking office, established by Emperor Josef I in 1707. A Hračky member of the Association of ( This small shop is crammed International Auctioneers, full with hundreds of charming Dorotheum holds large auctions toys. Traditional, hand-painted several times a year and folk dolls, wind up toys, con- maintains a large sales gallery of struction sets and model trains paintings, silverware, fine china, are just some of the goods jewellery, glassware and other on offer. Take advantage of the collectors’ items. d Ovocný trh 2 reasonable prices which are • Map N4 lower than elsewhere in Prague. d Loretánské náměstí 3 • Map A2 Blue * Forget the traditional image Erpet Bohemia Crystal of dust-collecting glass bowls ) A one-stop shop for glass and stemware. Blue’s bold and and jewellery. Erpet sells quirky designs will brighten your Bohemian lead crystal, garnet living room, dining room or jewellery, enamel glass and bathroom like no old-fashioned chandeliers, as well as fine glass can. Plus, the prices are goods from the Moser, Goebel low enough that you won’t and Swarovski manufacturers. hesitate to use your purchases Shoppers can ponder the every day. You can also pick up purchases they’re about to the requisite T-shirts, picture make over coffee in the shop’s books and other gifts here if you comfortable lounge area. wish (see p76). d Staroměstské náměstí 27 • Map M3

DUŠNÍ

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O V HAVELSKÁ O TÍŘSKÁ NA PŘÍKOPĚ N BETLÉMSKÉ RY A NÁMĚSTÍ T VÁCLAVSKÉ E NÁMĚSTÍ M

S 500 250 yards 0 metres 250 500 57 Left Potato knedlíky with sauerkraut Centre Rohlíky Right Liver knedlíky in beef broth Prague Dishes

Guláš Knedlíky ! Not quite as spicy as its % These doughy dumplings are Hungarian cousin, Czech goulash the side dish of choice for many is essentially a rich beef stew gravy-laden Czech dishes. In minus the vegetables. Don’t addition to the savoury varieties, even think of ordering it without made with bread, potato or Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top knedlíky dumplings on the side. bacon (špekové), knedlíky also Beef is the standard recipe of come stuffed with fruit (ovocné this staple dish, but you can knedlíky), the most popular sometimes ﬁnd goulash using variety being plums (švestkové). venison, chicken and even vegetarian variants. Pivní sýr ^ “Beer cheese” is marinated Svíčková na smetaně in ale until semi-soft. It is best @ This is goulash’s sweet enjoyed spread on dark cousin: slices of pot-roasted beef sourdough bread and sprinkled tenderloin are served in a carrot- with chopped onions. sweetened cream sauce, topped with a dollop of whipped cream Syrečky and cranberries. Apparently, this & Also known as olomoucké is one of President Václav tvarůžky, these small cheese Havel’s favourite dishes. Like rounds immediately announce goulash, it’s unthinkable to eat it themselves by their pungent without the dumplings to mop aroma. Eat them as a snack or up the sauce. light lunch, accompanied by beer, bread and onions. Smažený sýr £ Comparable to fried mozzarella sticks, this battered block of deep-fried mild cheese is usually served with French fries (hranolky) and a tangy tartare sauce. As with much of Czech cuisine, try not to think about the cholesterol.

Utopence $ These pickled sausages, slightly sour, fatty and always piled high with pickled onions, are an ideal accompaniment to the local beer, as a lunchtime or early evening snack. Svíčková na smetaně

58 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Prague’s Top 10 59 variety. (see p53). Braník Braník is made with real Velvet sophisticated stout, This Gambrinus Pilsner Urquell, by Brewed Bernard beer unpasteurized This Herold Americans a twist: Here’s Krušovice II establishedRudolph the Budvar of the town in Brewed Kozel Velkopopovický strong,This smooth beer is Staropramen favourite home-town The Pilsner Urquell Czech best-known The ) ^ & * ( £ $ % Top 10 Czech Beers Czech 10 Top ! @ Vltava river water, giving it its giving it its water, river Vltava distinct flavour. brewed by Staropramen, by is brewed on in Prague. catching this is the best-selling beer in variety. the 11° Try the country. has a distinct, bitter-sweet aroma. and a hoppy flavour The beer in Bohemia. brewing recipe produces centuries-old a caramel, malty brew. Krušovice brewery, which brewery, which Krušovice and produces this sweet the Try flat beer. somewhat (tmavé) dark syrupy the beer is Budějovice, České American no relation to the Budweiser seeking out – some worth well finest. consider it the world’s has a light, fruity flavour. flavour. has a light, fruity dis- in the Smíchov Brewed as trict, its popularity owes as it does to marketing much to local pride. beer on the international the town comes from market miles) 80 km (50 of Plzeň, It has a of Prague. southwest strong, flavour. hoppy Spaetzle.

(with sauerkraut) or (with sauerkraut) or s zelím Rohlíky of the work-horse The The Germans call these call these Germans The Halušky This name is the shortened name is the shortened This Vepřoknedlozelo

)

( * Prague diet, these ubiquitous these ubiquitous diet, Prague banana-shaped bread rolls are served the up to accompany lunch main meal at breakfast, Dip them in soft and dinner. sauce, dish’s or your cheese spread them with pâté or order them hot-dog style on nearly every street corner. coarse little noodles coarse little in the Czech included They’re culinary canon as a nod to they from which Slovakia, nearby originate and with whom has shared so much Bohemia can either order You history. them s bryndzou sharp (with a creamy, dish is a ﬁlling and The cheese). Eastern European cheap to pasta. alternative vepřové, knedlíky a vepřové, for version – pork, dumplings and zelí and low sauerkraut. Heavy on fat soul Czech this is true on ﬂavour, Order it instead of goulash food. waiter impress your and you’ll are, you acclimatized with how pronounce it right, assuming you of course. Ovocné knedlíky Ovocné Left Pivovarský dům Right U Zlatého tygra Bars and Kavárnas

famous literary café. Enjoy a coffee and dessert at the end of the day or after a night at the theatre admiring the view of the riverside and Prague Castle. d Smetanovo nábřeží 2 • Map J6 Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top • 224 218493 • KK

U Zlatého tygra $ This legendary pub, famed Café Slavia as the haunt of the late writer Bohumíl Hrabal (see p45), serves U Fleků the finest mug of Pilsner Urquell ! The city’s oldest brewing in the city. Regulars were non- pub, U Fleků is famous for its plussed when President Václav delicious, dark lager and Havel brought former US somewhat more than modest president Bill Clinton in for a cold prices. Despite what anyone tells glass, so don’t expect them to you, the Becherovka shots are take much interest in you. If you not complimentary and the find a seat, it probably means rounds keep coming until you one of the regulars has died. say “ne” five times. Very popular d Husova 17 • Map L4 • 222 221111 with busloads of tourists, and • No credit cards • K not without reason (see p112). Tretter’s Pivovarský dům % This is Prague’s – and @ Excellent, rustic Czech fare perhaps Europe’s – best cocktail served in a genteel setting. The bar. It may look like a Jazz-Age house brewmaster is always time capsule, but Tretter’s is concocting strange new flavours actually a relative newcomer, and for his drinks, such as coffee highly welcome at that. You’ll lager or champagne ale. You can find no bottle juggling, just also watch the fermenting vats that will eventually become beer, if the process of brewing interests you. d Lípová 15 • Map F6 • 296 216666 • Dis. access • KK

Café Slavia £ Across from the National Theatre and on a busy river thoroughfare, Café Slavia with its 1930s Art Deco interior is a Tretter’s

60 Kavárna is the Czech name for a Prague coffeehouse. O’Che’s ( An improbable combination of Irish and Cuban themes actually works a treat, with

Sunday roasts and Guinness on Prague’s Top 10 tap. When the football’s on, expect the bar to be ﬁlled with a hooligan-free crowd of locals, tourists and expatriates. Unfortunately, the fun stops at O’ Che’s midnight. d Liliová 14 • Map K5 • 222 221178 • www.oches.com serious mixology, very dry martinis and, if you’re lucky, a ) Chapeau Rouge seat. Open until 3am. d V Kolkovně The bar next to the Church 3 • Map L2 • 224 811165 of St James (see p74) has lost some, but not all, of the Bugsy’s seediness that characterized its ^ The kind of bar where you’ll previous incarnation, where the ﬁnd well-heeled septugenarian motto was “the customer is gents with a girl on either arm. always wrong”. Backpackers still With top-notch drinks, sit at the chat each other up over absinthe, bar for the best service but look however, and men in the street smart as the under-dressed are will offer you hashish on your turned away. d Pařížská 10 • Map L2 way in. It may sound • 840 284797 • www.bugsybar.com unappealing, but it’s a true Prague experience. d Jakubská 2 Grand Café Orient • Map N3 • 222 316328 & Designed during the Cubist U TIŠK DUŠNÍ RAN NA F movement in 1912, fans will love U

a MILOSRDNÝCH v the building’s architecture and be a lt U KÁ D LS V A A P DVORA AŠT fascinated by the tower of cakes DUŠNÍ H O T U OBECNÍHO S that greets them at the entrance. LI Josefov

PAŘÍŽSKÁ KOZÍ DLOUHÁ The café serves everything from 1 7 . tea, breakfast and lunch menus Š I R O K Á K APROVA as well as wine and cocktails. DLOUHÁ

CKÁ STAROMĚSTSKÉ d I KÁ Ovocný trh 19 • Map N4 • 224 É Ř S NÁMĚSTÍ P L A T N CELETNÁ 224240 • KK MALÉ KŘIŽOVN NÁMĚSTÍ OVOCNÝ TRH KARL O V A Staré Město Alcohol Bar

HUSOVA * A straightforward approach ŽÍ NA PŘÍKOPĚ BETLÉMSKÉ ÁBŘE

N NÁMĚSTÍ PERLOVÁ to cocktails, as the name NA PERŠT VÁCLAVSKÉ O suggests. The superior 28. ŘÍJNA NÁMĚSTÍ

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AN circulation system, which is a U J

ET NÍ NG SM R OD novelty in Prague, ﬁlters the NÁ N N A M SPÁLENÁ

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A kitchen serves small plates of Y

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For a guide to price ranges See p79 61 Left Alcron Right Kampa Park Restaurants

Kampa Park ! Consistently rated Prague’s best restaurant, chic Kampa Park has an unparalleled riverside location and an outstanding menu with influences from all Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top over the world. Part of the Kampa Group, which has another three excellent restaurants in the V Zátiší city (see p89). V Zátiší La Degustation (Bohême $ Prague was introduced to @ Bourgeoise) fine dining at this small One of the most intriguing dining Bethlehem Square restaurant. experiences in Prague, with The dégustation menu – a chefs offering a choice of three, selection of tasters – brings out seven-course taster menus that the kitchen’s best and pairs it unfold over a three-hour period. with select Moravian wines. The Efficient staff and a classy seafood is so good you’ll forget location. d Haštalská 18 • Map N2 you’re in a landlocked country. • 222 311234 • Dis. access • KKKK d Liliová 1 • Map K5 • 222 221155 • Dis. access • KKKKK Pravda £ Around the corner from the U Zlaté Studně Old-New Synagogue (see % Dining atop the hotel of the pp24–5) is where the other half same name (see p138), guests dines on a multi-national menu “At the Golden Well” may think before unwinding in the music they’ve died and gone to heaven. bar downstairs. The window The classic Continental cuisine counters are ideal for people- matches the view – but only just. watching. d Pařížská 17 • Map L2 The dining room is tiny, so be • 222 326203 • Dis. access • KKKK sure to make a reservation. d U Zlaté Studně 4 • Map C2 • 257 533322 • KKKKK

Alcron ^ Seafood is the speciality at the Radisson’s restaurant, but the chef is happy to prepare almost any dish. Just ask him as he makes the rounds of this minute Art Deco lounge. If the Pravda dining room is full, try La

62 For a guide to price ranges See p79 Rotonde across the foyer. After Plzeňská restaurace v dinner, you can enjoy cocktails * Obecním domu and live jazz in the Be Bop bar. It may be a bit touristy, but d Štěpánská 40 • 222 820000 • Dis. nevertheless, gorgeous tiled access • KKKKK mosaics of bucolic Bohemians Prague’s Top 10 cover the walls while an Pálffy Palác accordionist rolls out the Beer- & Enjoy the romantic ambience Barrel Polka almost non-stop. The of Palffy Palace. Nestled in one traditional food and beer are of Prague Castle’s imposing quite good and fairly priced. walls, this ﬁne dining d Náměstí Republiky 5 • Map P3 • 222 establishment offers something 002780 • Dis. access • KKKK special with palatial surroundings and an expansive and ever- Allegro changing menu of traditional ( The Four Seasons’ restaurant Czech and European cuisine. The is the toast of the town even menu features rich treats such as with other top restaurateurs. roasted roe deer carré with Expect highly attentive service chestnut and celery purée and ﬁne, authentic Italian cuisine served with lavender sauce. A by Milanese chef Vito Mollica. memorable dining experience with d Veleslavínova 2a • Map K3 • 221 impeccable service (see p89). 427000 • Dis. access • KKKKK

Country Life ) Take heart, vegetarians, you haven’t been forgotten. A meat- and dairy-free lunch buffet by day, à la carte menu for dinner, and it’s all non-smoking. Pick up organic necessities at the shop next door. d Melantrichova 15 • Map U Zlaté Studně L4 • 224 213366 • Dis. access • KK

Ledeburská PAŘÍŽSKÁ U MILOSRDNÝCH DUŠNÍ Á zahrada K REVOLUČNÍ KLÁROV L S TA Á SK DVORAH AŠ J N U OBECNÍHO LDŠ T E VA

Á Á . DLOUHÁ K K MÁNES Josefov KOZÍ S S ŮV MOST 17 ÁŘ N L E T ADU E ŠIROKÁ PAŘÍŽSKÁ L TRUH P

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ANÁČ J 600 300 yards 0 metres 300 600 63 Left Divadlo Alfred ve Dvoře Right Puppets, National Marionette Theatre Performing Arts Venues Divadlo Na Zábradlí % Under Communism, it was playhouses such as this that gave vent to dissident thought. By staging daring works, they helped draw world attention to Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top events such as the outspoken young playwright Václav Havel Divadlo Archa continually getting in trouble with the law. d Anenské náměstí 5 Divadlo Archa • Map M3 ! Archa is Prague’s premiere venue for avant-garde music, Laterna Magika dance and movement theatre. ^ This company was the main Past acts have included David proponent behind Black-Light Byrne and France’s Compagnie theatre, a genre in which black- Pál Frenák. d Na Poříčí 26 • Map P3 clad actors, working against a black background, manipulate Hybernia objects. See for yourself what all @ After extensive reconstruction the fuss is about at their stage work in 2007, the Hybernia next to the National Theatre. Theatre opened with the musical d Národní 4 • Map E4 Golem by Karel Svoboda, Zdeněk Zelenka, Lou Fanánka Hagen and Národní divadlo Philip Renč. After a year’s run, & The National Theatre’s 35,000 guests had attended the curtain ﬁrst raised for Bedřich performances. d Hybernská 1 Smetana’s opera Libuše in 1883; • Map P4 you can still see this or other Czech operas on the same stage Divadlo Alfred ve Dvoře today. Go to a performance, if £ A community group recently only to appreciate the artistic came to the ﬁnancial rescue to work that went into creating the ensure this theatre continues theatre. d Národní 2 • Map E4 hosting its outstanding non- verbal theatre. d Františka Křížka 36, Holešovice • Map B5

Ponec $ Prague’s new dance theatre has all aspects covered, from top international dance acts to workshops for young talent. d Husitská 24a, Žižkov • Map B6 Ceiling, Národní divadlo

64 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com Prague’s Top 10 65

(see (see . (see p15) Martinská 8 Map F2

• d

(see p9). . (see p74) . (see p101) . (see p74) St Martin in the Wall in the St Martin Organ and other recitals Spanish Synagogue organ ornate 1880 The Basilica St George’s Choral and string recitals of Sts Church Simon and Jude Church of St Nicholas Church music Hosts chamber Church St Nicholas’s Appreciate the Malá of St James Church house of active This Chapel Mirror of chamber Baroque The St Vitus’s St Vitus’s Cathedral cathedral Castle’s Prague Convent St Agnes’s convent medieval This U milosrdných

Map L6

) an ensemble of Prague Catch players Orchestra Symphony sanctuary. in this Renaissance d & • * ( £ $ % ^ Top 10 Churches for Churches 10 Top Recitals Music ! @ are on the bill at this Gothic are on the bill at this Gothic part of the Old once church, defences. Town ﬁgures in the sacred music concerts held in this opulent synagogue of present the greatest works and other Mozart, Beethoven composers recitals twice daily Baroque Strana church’s grandeur at a concert of sacred music (see p82). the regularly invites worship general public to hear its organ the Clementium hosts string quartets and other small ensembles is a spectacular setting for for is a spectacular setting (see classical concerts . pp12–13) regularly holds recitals pp28–9).

Map K2

• Žatecká 1 Žatecká Don Don

d Map M4

•

saw its its saw Don Giovanni Alšovo Nábřeží 12 Alšovo

Národní divadlo marionet divadlo Národní Marionette National The Stavovské divadlo Stavovské is Theatre EstatesThe Rudolfinum is home to Rudolﬁnum The .

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( * Auditorium, Rudolfinum Auditorium, Theatre represents the pinnacle the pinnacle represents Theatre puppet genre, of the much-loved staging productions of wonderful fairytales and other child- Czech They (in Czech). pleasing shows the best Beatles also have and a delightful tribute in town of version marionette Giovanni (see p54). Giovanni first performance. It was also the also the It was first performance. in playhouse first Czech-language then a largely German- what was productions The speaking city. something to occasionally leave see don’t be desired, but if you the well-known as the venue where where as the venue well-known Mozart’s the Czech Philharmonic. During Philharmonic. During the Czech Nazis sought to II, the War World from Mendelssohn Felix remove the gallery on the of statues plucked inadvertently They roof. Wagner instead (see Richard p36) Left Radost FX Right Mecca Clubs

Radost FX Palác Akropolis ! Prague’s most chic disco £ In addition to being at the pushes the limits with parties so heart of Prague’s indie and hedonistic you wonder if there world-music scene, the Palác isn’t a law against them. Hip- Akropolis hosts the likes of hop, funk and disco are the Ani Difranco, Apollo 440 and Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top prevalent flavours on the dance Transglobal Underground. The floor. The vegetarian café small, smoky Divadelní bar is upstairs is open until 4am. the hippest, hosting Prague’s During peak lunch and dinner best DJs. On the ground floor hours, it can be very hard to find level is a café and Czech a seat (see p111). restaurant. On a more cultural note, this is also the best venue Roxy in town to hear contemporary @ This former cinema is a Romany music from such local must for fans of jungle and dub. acts as Alom or Věra Bílá and Parties continue well into the Kale. d Kubelíkova 27, Žižkov • Map B6 morning, much to the dismay of the neighbours. Such live acts as Karlovy lázně the Asian Dub Foundation take $ The former public bath- the stage when it’s not occupied house, just 100 m from Charles by DJs or an experimental Bridge, was converted into a theatre production. A portion of dance club in the late 1990s. Roxy’s proceeds goes towards You can still admire the original funding the Linhart Foundation, tiles along the corridors and a non-profit organization whose the splendid mosaic murals. aim is to promote contemporary Drained of water, the pools art. Keep abreast of Roxy’s now serve as the dance floors. events at http://roxy.cz d Dlouhá 33 d Novotného lávka, Smetanovo nábřeží • Map M2 198 • Map J5

XT3 % This loud Žižkov club resounds with alternative music such as rock, punk, ska, punk-rock and Indie rock most nights, while tough kids in jeans and hooded sweatshirts shufﬂe to the music Palác Akropolis or huddle over joints

66 Radost’s website at www.radostfx.cz outlines upcoming events at the club. Prague’s Top 10 67

(see p88). , most of whom take the take the , most of whom kova 36 • Map F4 Lucerna “big-beat” acts are Local Rock Café Rock music scene is Prague’s Vodič Národní 20 • Map L6 Karmelitská 23 • Map C3 Karmelitská 23 d d ) reasonable food and brunch and brunch food reasonable the same From at weekends. who brought entrepreneurs Bagels Bohemia you d ( Wall mural, XT3 mural, Wall the mainstay at this Wenceslas Wenceslas the mainstay at this but it Square music bar, occasionally hosts big names as Maceo Parker, in jazz such where-are-they-now as as well relics. (A separate adjoining sál, or large Velkýw the venue, as hall, hosts bigger acts such club’s The Marsalis.) Wynton night is one of the 1980s biggest dance parties in town. teeming with so-called “revival “revival so-called teeming with bands” stage entertain here and to audiences with tributes from Jimi Hendrix to everyone bars, are also several There Sade. and a screening an internet café ﬁlms can watch room where you concerts. past rock of various

Malostranské Malostranské d U Průhonu 3, Holešovice 3, Holešovice U Průhonu d • www.mecca.cz • www.mecca.cz Rokycanova 29, Žižkov 29, Žižkov Rokycanova

d U Malého Glena cellar shoebox-sized The Jo’s Garáž Jo’s in the mid- A club chronicler Mecca proprietors of Mecca The

• Map B6

náměstí 7 • Map C2 *

& ^ of marijuana. It’s also impossibly also impossibly of marijuana. It’s anything wear smoky, so don’t or thrown be washed that can’t away. Karlovy lázně Karlovy at “Little Glenn’s” has to be has to be Glenn’s” “Little at smallest jazz venue. Prague’s African- ranges from music The to blues to inspired drumming modern jazz, and most of it is of a high standard. Upstairs is can get where you a café 1990s wrote that Jo’s had its had its wrote that Jo’s 1990s ﬁnger on the pulse of Prague’s has changed Little scene”. “expat set still backpack The here since. on bump eagerly to pop tunes the cramped cellar dance ﬂoor. hungry, upstairsIf you’re is a restaurant serving passable food. Tex-Mex have turned this former factory this former turned have warehouse in the Holešovice district into a giant dance-and- is food The dining emporium. cuisine, the crowd nouvelle trendy and the parties wonderful. – the beaten track off A little take a taxi – but the trip is worth restaurant servesThe food it. until 2am. • Map B5 Left Karlovy Vary International Film Festival Right Prague Spring International Music Festival Festivals Prague Spring ! International Music Festival Bedřich Smetana’s Má vlast (My Country) kicks off the annual three-week festival that draws Prague’s Top 10 Prague’s Top classical music performers and fans from around the globe. The round of concerts closes with Beethoven’s Ninth symphony. d May–Jun

Bohemia @ International Folklore Dance Festival This festival has been a success since its first staging in 2005. Street Theatre Festival It has now expanded beyond Prague, as DanceBohemia, and Street Theatre Festival brings amateur folklore dance % The creative minds behind ensembles together from all the Teatrotoč theatre bring their around the world. d Aug trademark genre-bending artistry out of the theatre and parade it Karlovy Vary through the city centre on stilts. £ International Film Festival Offerings are both comic and It’s easier to hobnob with the macabre – much like the city stars here than at Cannes or itself. d Jul Berlin. Hundreds of partygoers turn the sleepy west Bohemian Tanec Praha spa town upside down for nine ^ This international dance days. Hundreds of screenings, festival is on the verge of too. d Jul becoming something great. The local dance scene has greatly May Day benefited from it, and audiences $ The dawn finds young lovers can now see contemporary dragging themselves home after productions year-round. d May, Jun a night of doing what comes naturally on Petřín Hill (see Pardubice Steeplechase pp32–3). While they sleep, their & With 31 jumps stretching parents spend the national over 7 km (4 miles), this is one holiday trying to forget the old of the biggest steeplechases in obligatory Communist rallies. Europe. The first steeplechase d 1 May here was held in 1874. d Oct

68 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Prague’s Top 10 69

28 Sep 8 May

17 Nov 17

1 Jan

5 Jul d d d d d 24–26 Dec

d 6 Jul

28 Oct

d d Mar–Apr

d (see p39). Christmas Streets ﬁll with carp Czech Statehood Day Statehood Czech as Day, Wenceslas On St Independence Day On this date in 1918 Labour Day ﬂowers lay Romantics of Liberation Day are Plaques around town and Cyril Methodius Day Hus Day Jan the hills head for Czechs Renewal of Indepen- Renewal State dent Czech Monday Easter a their women Men give Freedom and Freedom Day of the Fight for of the Day 1 May

) & * ( anniversaryThe of the 1989 Candles Revolution. Velvet are placed in and flowers locations. various £ d $ % Greek missionaries The brought both Christianity and alphabet to the the Cyrillic Slavs ^ Top 10 National National 10 Top Holidays ! of Czech- Marks the split in 1993. oslovakia @ Democracy sellers and hedonists drinking sellers and hedonists drinking mulled wine. most Czechs call it, Bohemia’s call it, Bohemia’s most Czechs history is recalled. declared itself Czechoslovakia Austro- independent of Hungary. before the statue of Karel of Karel the statue before Hill. on Petřín Mácha Hynech to adorned with flowers the remember those killed by Germans in 1945. roast sausages where they (see p35). gentle whipping with a willow with a willow gentle whipping Ladies respond with switch. eggs. Dec fireworks fireworks d (Silvestr) Czech Christmas celebra- Czech Mikuláš, Vánoce, Vánoce, Silvestr Mikuláš, Masopust swine start getting Czech Prague Writer’s Festival Writer’s Prague Susan Rushdie, Salman

Shrove Tue Shrove Jun arsenals are depleted.

Christmas, Old Town Square Town Old Christmas, ) d ( d * tions are largely devoid of of tions are largely devoid religion, but the mulled wine starts on St Nicholas’s ﬂowing stop until the and doesn’t Day Christmas carp is all eaten and Eve Year’s New nervous in early February as the as the nervous February in early and nation whets its appetite of their version for knives While the beer-and-pork Carnival. in orgies are more common villages than in the big city, (see p116) Žižkov working-class year. a large partythrows each Sontag and Elie Wiesel are just Wiesel are just Sontag and Elie internationally some of the who have acclaimed authors The annual event. this attended for get grief often organizers shrift. writers short giving Czech

AROUND TOWN

Old Town

72–79 PRAGUE’S TOP 10 Malá Strana 80–89 Prague Castle and Hradčany 90–97 Josefov 98–103 New Town 104–113 Greater Prague 114–123 72 Around Town – Old Town P Old Town Left department store.Historically,department theburghersofOldTown oftheKotvait embraceseveryepochfromRomanesquetotheBrutaliststyle the originalstreets3m(10 ft)beneaththoseexistingtoday;architecturally, clubs, restaurantsandtheatreskeepthedistrictbuzzingaroundclock. Protestant feistiness,andOldTown isstilllivelierthanHradčany–itscafés, were illateasewiththecastle,andviceversa,townbeingabastionof S

ME TANOVO 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

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SENOVÁŽNÁ SENOVÁŽNÁ Around Town – Old Town 73 Powder Gate Powder century, King In the 15th Náměstí Republiky • Map P4 • Open Náměstí Republiky 5 • Map P3 • 222 10am–10pm (Oct, Mar: 10am–8pm, Nov– (Oct, Mar: 10am–8pm, 10am–10pm Adm • 10am–6pm) Feb: 002101 for tours • Adm • Dis. access Adm tours • for 002101 d d £ star Art Nouveau attraction. One One attraction. Art Nouveau star striking of its most beautiful and mosaic is Karel Špillar’s features the main entrance, entitled above . It also has a Homage to Prague ﬁrm place in history as it was from the Municipal House that declared an was Czechoslovakia Today, independent state in 1918. it is home to restaurants, cafés, halls, shops and the exhibition Orchestra. Symphony Prague Vladislav II laid the corner-stone laid the corner-stone II Vladislav east- at the city’s this tower for ern gate, intended to comple- Court nearby. ment the Royal in the Used to store gunpowder century, hence the name, 17th damaged during was the tower in forces Prussian by attacks Neo-Gothic façade The 1757. with its sculptural seen today, decoration, dates from 1876. Church of Our Lady before Týn, Old Town Square Town Old Týn, of Our Lady before Church . (see pp14–17) , Prague’s (Obecní Dům), Prague’s Municipal House Alfons artist National Revival Old Town Old Town Square

Powder Gate Powder

@ ! the centuries, Over placid square this now of the city at the heart hun- has witnessed dreds of executions, political capitulations of and, more recently ice course, riotous celebrations, a hockey sport about which are fanatical. Czechs the action is Today, to come more likely of from the crowds tourists and Praguers, or a a coffee enjoying beer at one of the numerous pavement Dominated by cafés. Lady of Our the splendid Church square is always the Týn, before buzzing; in winter and summer, place to watch a wonderful it’s go by the world Mucha was one of many to lend to lend one of many was Mucha his talents to the Municipal House 74 Around Town – Old Town curving street. curving lot oftraffic onthegently to Prague Castle. There’s stilla through Old Town Squareandon street known today asCeletná, in Bohemia passeddown the silver-mining town ofKutná Hora % $ Pietà carving, Church ofStJames church isbestknown for the Prague’s creepiestsanctuary. The interior herewinstheaward for Prague’s wallsgoingupin started and moatslesseffective forms of habit oflocking itsgatesatnight and even cafés. Prague kept the the 13th throughwhich century, Tartars. Butasdevelopments in the city wasthe city accessibleviawall uses for theirfortifications. The military technology madewallsmilitary gates, thusprotectingthenew complete withbenches, lamps broad rampartsbecameparks, defence, Praguers found new The GothicandBaroque Church ofStJames The medieval routefromthe Celetná settlement fromthedistant well intothe19th century. Share your travelrecommendations ontraveldk.com City Gates d MapN4 Chapel, Observatory Chapel, Observatory Mirror • MapK4222220879Library, Mariánské náměstí5&Seminářská1 mercantile centres. of theOld Town’s mostcharming 1990s, creatingwhatisnow one completely renovated intheearly Renaissance houseswere 10th century. The Baroque and merchants settlement inthe Courtyard, thiswas afortified tower. tower. motion atoptheobservatory discovered thelaws ofplanetary mer Johannes Kepler (seep35) Astrono- TechnicalState libraries. num now housestheNationaland mid-17th theClementi- century, 8pm •Dis.access May: 10am–7pm; Jun–Aug: 10am– 10am–4pm daily; Apr &Sep:10am–6pm; (except duringMass)•Free •Dis.access • Open9:30am–noon,2–4pmdaily ^ p65). heldhere organ recitals opportunity totakeinoneofthe but visitorsshouldnotmissthe hanging above thedoor legend ofthemummifiedarm Plaque, Clementium & Also known as Týn Ungelt Built asaJesuit collegeinthe Clementinum d d MaláŠtupartská 6•MapN3 Křížovnická platnéřská8–10, Tower: d MapM3 Open (seep52), (see Around Town – Old Town 75

Old Old Powder Powder Café de de Café Old Town Old Town restaurant (see p79) before (see p78) before Church of St James of Church After breakfast at the at the breakfast After (see Municipal House take a guided p73) café, tour of the building, then the go and climb the (see p73) for Gate the door before next views off. wears caffeine Celetná, down Wander through the ducking and arcade to Štupartská the If you have at least 45 at least 45 have If you top of the minutes before tour the the hour, the and watch Hall Town on the show Apostles’ from Clock Astronomical . (see pp16–17) backstage Otherwise, shop in the and join the crowd Ungelt outside, the clock below to see the spectacle. to the head lunch, For Kogo for some delicious some delicious for contemporary food. freshening up for dinner. If If dinner. freshening up for heading to the you’re theatre or a concert, curtains go up around 7:30pm, so it is sensible to dine afterwards. Paris Circumnavigate Circumnavigate (see pp14–15) Square entering the before of meandering turns and wandering Karlova leisurely past the area’s old buildings to . Bethlehem Square a tour of the lovely Have Chapel, then Bethlehem to back way ﬁnd your to visit the Karlova Clementinum. now Alternately, if you’re on the tired side, a little at a coffee have Morning Afternoon A Stroll Around the Around A Stroll Old Town

Map K5 • Chapel: Open d Řetězová 3 • Map K5 • Closed Řetězová d

Bethlehem Square Catholic 15th-century The House of the Lords of House of the Lords and Poděbrady Kunštát Karlova get lost will inevitably You

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Bethlehem Chapel, Bethlehem Square Bethlehem Chapel, ) George of Poděbrady lived here here lived George of Poděbrady elected king in he was before The 1458. Romanesque “cellars” ground-ﬂoor rooms until a were programme ﬂood-prevention 3 m streets raised the city’s ft). (10 ( d * reformer Jan Hus (see p35) Jan reformer in the reconstructed preached north on the square’s chapel was original church The side. into apartments in the converted century but had a loving 18th state restoration to its former in the 1950s. trying to follow “Charles Street” “Charles Street” trying to follow Square to Charles Town from Old the and enjoy Bridge; relax twistingbewildering, alleys cafés. with shops and choked to the public Apr–Oct: 10am–6:30pm daily; Nov–Mar: daily; Nov–Mar: Apr–Oct: 10am–6:30pm Tue–Sun • 10am–5:30pm Adm Left Blue Right Dr Stuart’s Botanicus Shops

Blue Dr Stuart’s Botanicus ! A dazzlingly different kind of ^ The store’s all-natural health glass shop. Modern, fun designs and beauty products are in bowls and other knick-knacks, produced at a “historic village” as well as T-shirts and other east of Prague; enquire about tourist fare (see p57). d Malé tours. Herbs, oils and other náměstí 14 • Map L4 seasonings, too (see p56). d Týn 3 • Map M3 Moser @ Classic crystal and cut glass Galerie Ztichlá klika produced by this well-known & bookshop manufacturer. Even if you’re not The name of the gallery, which Around Town – Old Town Around Town interested in a large vase or a translates as “silenced crystal hedgehog, it’s worth a doorhandle” originated in a pub in look around. d Staroměstké the Slovak town of Košice after námestí 15 • Map L4 two days of drinking and mulling over a name for a Košice-Praha Charles University samizdat magazine. The owner, £ Gift Shop Jan Placak, loved it so much he Looking for cool souvenirs to had it patented for his bookshop. take back for the kids? Problem d Betlémská 10–14 • Map K5 solved: a Charles University pullover. If it’s chilly out, you’ll Czech Folk Crafts want one for yourself as well. * (Manufaktura) d Celetná 14 • Map M3 Kids these days might not appreciate the handmade Franz Kafka Bookshop wooden toys or corn-husk $ Here you can ﬁnd a wide dolls, but when was the last range of Czech literature in time you bought yourself a translation, coffee-table books gift? d Karlova 26 • Map L4 and catalogues from recent exhibitions next door at the Art Dekor Municipal Gallery, plus classical ( This shop manufactures and music CDs. d Staroměstské náměstí sells toys, gifts and accessories 12 • Map M3 made of fabric. Each piece is unique. d Ovocný Trh 12 • Map N4 U rytíře Kryštofa % Perhaps only in Prague Keramika would you ﬁnd a weird treasure ) Probably every Czech kitchen trove such as this. Battle-axes, has at least one of these ceramic broadswords and maces, not to plates. The traditional folk mention chastity belts and patterns are either blue, red or breastplates. d Kožná 8 • Map M4 yellow. d Havelská 21 • Map M5

76 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Around Town – Old Town 77 nings. It plays Železná 16 • Map M4 Železná 16 d Bartolomějská 11 • Map K6 11 Bartolomějská d AghaRTA Jazz Centrum Jazz AghaRTA Miles Davis’s Named after paní Club U Staré Jazz jazz club favourite Prague’s Cross Club Cross quirkyThis club with moving Friends best ﬁts. Prague’s name The Radost FX as A hit with locals, as well Michalská 9 • Map L5 Michalská Bĕlehradská 120 • Map G6 120 Bĕlehradská Plynární 23 d ( ) d & d * ^ important album from the 1970s important album from the 1970s his following and opened the day daily death, this club features top Czech by performances musicians. The AghaRTA Prague is hosted annually Festival Jazz the club. by from the much like not look may outside, but the best local acts regularly to full here perform high cover houses. Relatively away. fans keep can’t charges metal sculptures has remnants has remnants metal sculptures begin of its grungy and bands. DJs host to varied bar has a steady cocktail gay and local among expat following men who are less interested in a than in just having cruising The folks. drink with like-minded what’s will tell you Michael owner what. college kids and tourists, Radox Radox college kids and tourists, serves mix of DJ up an eclectic nights, theme parties, fashion and go-go dancers. shows Národni 25 d Cross Club Cross Veletržní Veletržní 61 d Dlouhá 33 • Map M3 Right d Novotného lávka • Map J5 lávka Novotného

d Nightclubs

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One of the originals for One of the originals for Vagon M1 in the lounge” “secret This Roxy most Town’s Old The Karlovy lázně Karlovy Willis here jammed Bruce Party with the locals with all- Party Misch-Masch

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@ ! Left exciting live music, this place music, this place live exciting bands most hosts blues or rock nights, with a mix of well-known a Always and unsigned acts. atmosphere. lively Old Town is perfectly suited to suited to is perfectly Town Old It is trendy kids in the know. open nightly, and the varied reflect the social musical offers mix. exciting club. In addition to the club. In addition to the exciting the best dance parties in town, hosts experimen- cinema former tal bands and art theatre, live exhibitions. when in town. Weekends find find Weekends when in town. clubbers a queue of young bank along the river stretching to get in to these waiting Four remodelled municipal baths. of clubbing, from classic levels and, occasionally, live to DJs rock bands. night dancing and drinking at this at this night dancing and drinking dance four The club. revived floors, along with big name a this make international DJs popular venue. Left Café Obecní dům Right Café de Paris Cafés and Pubs Café Obecní dům Grand Café Praha ! Dressed to the nines in Art ^ Unlike other establishments Nouveau splendour, the Municipal on the square, this coffee house House café glitters. Stop in for actually offers great value and breakfast. d Náměstí Republiky 5 good service. d Staroměstské • Map P3 náměstí 22 • Map M3

Café de Paris Hotel U Prince @ If you’re not already staying & Have an unforgettable dining at the Hotel Paříž, you may be experience on the roof top tempted to take a room just so terrace of Hotel U Prince. Serves you can have your morning as both a restaurant and café. Around Town – Old Town Around Town coffee in this Jugendstil café. d Staroměstské náměstí 29 • Map L4 Superior service. d Hotel Paříž, • 224 213807 • KKKK U Obecního domu 1 • Map P3 Café Indigo Le Patio * Cafe Indigo caters for all £ A sushi bar heightens the tastes with a range of sweet and trendy feeling at this “world- savoury pancakes, pasta dishes beat” café. There is an extensive and vegetarian options. Breakfast dinner menu with classic French is also served. d Platnéřská 11 • Map dishes as well as Czech K4 • 731 216035 • Dis. access specialities. Open for breakfast and lunch, with live bands in the ( Hotel Evropa evenings. d Národńi třída 22 • Map L6 Have traditional coffee and • 224 934402 • Dis. access • KKK cakes in the heart of the city centre. d Václavské náměstí 25 • Map Ebel Coffeehouse N6 • 224 215387 • Dis. access $ You won’t ﬁnd a better cup of coffee in the city than at Ebel, Atmoška (Atmosphere) which uses beans from all over ) This café, pub and restaurant the world. A stone’s throw from has ultimate views of the castle Old Town Square. d Templová 7 and Charles Bridge. d Smetanovo • Map N3 nábřeží 14 • Map J5 • KK

Týnská Literární kavárna Staroměstská % Á CK

The local customers here NI K Á É ŘS Náměstí OV N CELETNÁ P L A T Republiky

are serious about their literature, KŘIŽ at this café attached to a BŘEŽÍ bookstore. The hidden courtyard Á

OVO N N Á A K is a blissfully quiet space to S Ř ET I T M Můstek enjoy a beer on summer nights. S RY d Týnská 6 • Map M3

78 Recommend your favourite café on traveldk.com Price Categories For a three-course K under Kč300 meal for one with half KK Kč300–Kč500 a bottle of wine (or KKK Kč500–Kč700 equivalent meal), taxes KKKK Kč700–Kč1000 and extra charges. KKKKK over Kč1000 Around Town – Old Town Above La Provence Places to Eat Sarah Bernhardt Bellevue ! French cuisine in an opulent ^ A gorgeous view of the Art Nouveau setting inspired by castle rising above Charles Alfons Mucha’s paintings of the Bridge, and formal, Continental French actress. Bohumil Hrabal dining. d Smetanovo nábřeží 18 • Map (see p45) celebrated the hotel in J5 • 222 221443 • KKKKK his novel I Served the King of England. d Hotel Paříž, U Obecního & Klub architektů domu 1 • Map P3 • 222 195195 • KKK Situated in a medieval cellar, this casual club specializes in Café Imperial “eintopf” dishes such as beef @ A busy and popular eatery. strips with sour cream and Enjoy a ﬁve-course menu with apples. d Betlémské náměstí 5a selected wines at the Chef’s • Map K5 • 224 248878 • KKK Table, which is set up in the middle of the bustling kitchen. * Lehká Hlava d Na Poříčí 15 • Map G2 • KKKK This vegetarian restaurant has a varied menu. It’s so good £ La Provence you don’t even notice there are Very good southern French no meat choices. d Boršov 2 cuisine – try the rabbit – in a • Map K5 • 222 220665 • KK boisterous setting. The Banana Café upstairs offers go-go DaNico dancers and occasional drag ( This wine bar combines shows. d Štupartská 9 • Map M3 good quality Italian food with • 296 826155 • KKKKK outstanding wines. d Dlouhá 21 • Map M3 • 222 311807 • KKKKK Kogo $ Serving superior Italian dishes Modrý Zub at remarkably low prices, Kogo is ) Fast Thai food at its best, for wildly popular with discerning a quick snack or light meal. Huge locals; book ahead. The service windows make for great people is marvellous. d Havelská 27 • Map watching. d Jindřišská 5 • Map P6 M5 • 224 214543 • KKKK • 222 212622 • Dis. access • KK

Divinis % Staroměstská CKÁ

This high-end wine bar and NI K Á É ŘS CELETNÁ Náměstí OV P L A T N IŽ Republiky restaurant manages to balance a KŘ

modern feel with a traditional ŘEŽÍ Italian atmosphere. Good quality ÁB

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A K S wines compliment the classic Ř ET I T M RY Můstek Sicilian specialties. d Týnská 21 S • Map M3 • 222 325440 • KKKKK

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 79 cards and serve vegetarian meals 80 Around Town – Malá Strana

cafés, windingstreetsandunassumingchurches. and embassies.Theareaisanenclaveofparks, these serveasparliamentorgovernment buildings andtodaymanyof were builtinBaroquestyle, and Gothicbuildingsremain.DuringtheHabsburgs’reign,grandpalaces construction busyontheVltava’sleftbank;fewoforiginalRomanesque moved thatnameacrosstheriver M Malá Strana Left KANOVNICKÁ KANOVNICKÁ Rose Garden Růžový Sad 5 4 3 2 1 Houseofthe Two Suns, Nerudova

VLAŠS Malostranské náměstí John Lennon Wall Nerudova Petřín Hill Charles Bridge Lobkovická ÚVOZ Zahrada

called PragueMinor(thelessertown),acenturybeforeCharlesIV ALÁ STRANA, NOW KNOWN AS THE “LITTLE QUARTER”, NOW STRANA, “LITTLE KNOWNALÁ ASTHE

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BŘETISLAVOVA BŘETISLAVOVA Seminářská Seminářská Malá Strana SCHODY ZÁMECKÉ Petřín Park Zahrada

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John Lennon Wall Lennon John and the hippies Prague Nerudova Czech 19th-century The $ £ • Map D3 secret police once waged a long- secret police once waged here, as the paint battle running constantly tried to eradi- latter The work. artists’ cate the grafﬁti a original artwork, created by Lennon’s after student Mexican assassination, has been painted times many over Peace Lennon the so-called John Club still gathers annually at this self-made shrine to sing the songs and Beatle’s former praises. writer and poet Jan Neruda Neruda writer and poet Jan “House of in the lived (1834–91) Suns” the Two bears his name. street that now palaces, Lined with former leads uphill from Nerudova náměstí, its many Malostranské winding side streets leading Castle visitors up to Prague an artists’ Traditionally . pp8–11) the street is worth quarter, craft its many for exploring shops and galleries. It is also home to one of the most concentrated collections of signs in the city historichouse (see pp42–3). . (see pp18–19) A more than welcome A more than welcome Petřín Hill Petřín Charles Bridge Charles almost all visitors to For

Original John Lennon Wall Lennon John Original

@ ! respite from the tiny, generally generally respite from the tiny, streets in the city crowded park, sprawling is Prague’s below spires and over looking down all the the views Enjoy rooftops. taking up the hill by the way funicular train (see pp32–3). Prague, this spectacular Gothic Prague, from Vltava bridge, crossing the the castle to Town the Old remains their most complex, city, memorable image of the returned have they long after home Charles Bridge at sunset Bridge Charles 82 Around Town – Malá Strana Deputies. home totheChamberof the National Assembly, andnow palace, oncetheheadquartersof buildings istheSněmovna One ofthemostimportant linetheperimeter.restaurants Classical palacearcadesand square, whilelovely Neo- dominate thecentreof the adjoiningJesuit college here. StNicholas’s Church and the days whenagallows stood (see p11), andexecutions during including the1618 defenestration destructive fires,revolutions, has beenwitnesstoinnumerable historically fitting –inthepastit Strana’s mainsquareseems ofMaládetracts fromthebeauty % Malostranské náměsti narrow here,asdidCasanova –in the palacethatisnow theBritish of a party townof aparty for the Viennese Malá Stranabecamesomething nobility duringthe18thnobility century. gathering inthelittle squaresto playboy pennedhismemoirsat Embassy. The trendcontinues strayed fromthestraightand play music,smoke anddrink. The hectictraffic thatnow Malostranské náměstí his sunsetyears, theageing The Hedonists’Quarter WolfgangMozart Amadeus today, withPrague’s youth Share your travelrecommendations ontraveldk.com

d MapC2 (Communist police). (spying) pointforsecurity state often asanobservation served From the1950s theclock tower statues andfrescoes. carvings, the interiorwithexquisite other prominentartistsadorned and KilianDientzenhofer, while Baroque archi tects, Christoph by theacclaimedfather andson Prague landmarkwas designed 18th century. This prominent architecture intheearly stunning example ofBaroque ^ Church ofStNicholas d 10am–8pm • Adm • Open Apr–Sep: 10am–10pm; Oct–Mar: Malostranské náměstí•MapC2 Jesuits constructed this Church ofStNicholas & (see p40)whilethe island’s southern end park now covers the industry.popular A thriving pottery hometoacentury, and, inthe17th “laundry” once thetown’s from MaláStranawas separates Kampa (Devil’s Canal)that The tiny Čertovka Kampa Island , millingarea Around Town – Malá Strana 83 John John Charles Charles Café Café (see p67). (see p81) (see p89). Vojanovy Vojanovy from (see p81) from St Nicholas’s St Nicholas’s , check (see p88), check , or , or (see pp18–19) Kampa Island. Garden Wallenstein Garáž Jo’s You can approach the Little the Little can approach You Town the Old Quarter from processions once as royal crossing did, by Bridge energy your save can you ahead, and day the for start from the top of the Get to down. hill and walk Nerudova side one of the many streets leading from down, and stroll Hradčany at the shopping window outlets on your craft many worry if you Don’t way. the beaten path; off stray continue as long as you end up at you’ll downhill, central hub, the area’s náměstí. Malostranské Here, spend at least an one of the hour savouring most spectacular city’s buildings, . Church either at lunch, for Pause cheap one of the many on Malostranské cafés náměstí or splash out at Kampa Park before wrapping up at the wrapping up at the before of Our Lady Church . Victorious a catch In the evening, recital at St Nicholas’s or dance the night Church away with the young crowd at After lunch, take Tomášská Tomášská take lunch, After around to Valdštejnská and the (see p40). Tip-toe through at the tulips sady and continue down semináře U lužického under Charles Bridge and onto at coffee After Čertovka the writing on the Lennon Wall Afternoon Morning A Day in Malá Strana in Malá A Day (see (see Karmelitská d Map C3 Map D3 d d

. Visitors stream in to see stream Visitors .

Following pages: Kampa Island Following U lužického semináře • Map D2 semináře • Map U lužického

d Malá Strana has many green green Malá Strana has many Vojanovy sady Vojanovy Church of Our Lady Church Victorious The Knights of Malta The once Maltézské náměstí Maltézské

Kampa Island ) 9 • Map C3 • Open 8:30am–7pm Mon– Sat, 8:30am–8pm Sun • Free Also known as the Church of the as the Church Also known Prague’s of Prague, Jesus Infant its got (1611) church first Baroque name – and its Catholic outlook – White Mountain of the Battle after (see p34) the miracle-working of thestatue Christ Child (see p38). ( * northern half is home to elegant elegant northern half is home to embassies, restaurants and was of the island hotels. Much submerged during the 2002 buildings had flooding and many to be repaired. pockets, but Vojan’s gardens top Vojan’s but pockets, their romantic charm. them all for trees fruit beds, flowering Tulip add and the occasional peacock to the fairytale atmosphere p40). had an autonomous settlement had an autonomous settlement bears here, and the square still area is dominated The their name. palaces, and beautiful Baroque by of Our Church the 12th-century the Chain – so called Lady Below portrait inside that the Marian for from the hangs beneath chains the precursor to Bridge, Judith Charles Bridge.

86 Around Town – Malá Strana Achilles and Mars. had himselfdepicted asboth the ThirtyYears’commander War self. On thepalace’s frescoes, essentially amonumenttohim- out allthestopscreatingwhatis streets atnight. wander aboutMaláStrana Embassy’s façade aresaidto bearinguptheRomanianMorzin) numerous concertsandrecitals. Prague’s Academy ofMusicand 16th century. Today, itishometo Lichtenstein Palace fusedinthe Embassy. the buildingisnow theItalian Giovanni Santini-Aichel in1721, ofthispalace.Builtbyportal heraldic eaglessupportthe Culture. of as theseatofMinistry concert. The palacenow serves enjoying achamber music at this17th-century palacewhile • MapC3 $ d £ @ ! Left % Sat &Sun• Adm náměstí 4•MapD2 Open10am–5pm • MapC2 Malostranské náměstí13 •MapC2 Tu-oesen Palace Thun-Hohenstein Nostitz Palace General Wallenstein pulled General Wallenstein Wallenstein Palace Two giantMoors (hence Morzin Palace Originally several houses, Lichtenstein Palace The Kolowrat family’s Thun-Hohenstein Palace Take intherestorationwork Palaces are helpful to concertgoers whoget thetwo confused. There isanother Lichtenstein Palace onKampa Island,butthey d Maltézské náměstí1 d Nerudova 20•MapC2 d Nerudova 5 d Valdštejnské Centre Wallenstein Palace Wallenstein building. he couldridehishorseintothe reconstructedhad thestairs so leg inthe Thirty Years’ War, he the 17th having century: losta Mansfeld owned thepalacein ment in1925. CountColloredo- sold thepalacetoUSgovern- ambassador totheUnitedStates Movement. home totheSokol Physical Culture this palaceon Versailles. Todayit’s opposite hisoffices inthe1980s. thegraffitihelped preserve However, they aremilesapartaesthetically. rated by onlyafew steps,but the John Lennon Wall aresepa- popular spotfor protests. 300 years until war madeita and yellow stucco for morethan Embassy satquietlyinitspink * & d ^ ) back fence. scrambling over theembassy’s found theirway tothe West by 1989 hundredsofEastGermans Home totheGermanEmbassy;in ( d Velkopřevorské náměstí2•MapD3 Mostecká 15 •MapD3 Right Czechoslovakia’s first Shoenborn Palace Francesco Caratti modelled Michna Palace This pinkstucco palaceand Buquoy Palace The Yugoslav (now Serbian) Kaunitz Palace (Převorovských) Lobkowitz Palace Shoenborn Palace

d the French Ambassador Tržiště 15 •MapC3

d d Vlašská 19 •MapC3 Újezd40•MapC4 Around Town – Malá Strana 87 Mostecká Mostecká d

Saská • Map D3 Vítězná 16 • Map C4 16 Vítězná d d Karmelitská 26 • Map C3 d Úvoz 1 • Map C2 Úvoz

. Spruce up your apartment apartment up your . Spruce Vetešnictví junk shop, where A favourite Absinth Shop under the Castle Situated Květinářstvi u Květinářstvi lva Červéneho Moje-Tvoje servesThis as a public wine Decastello A delightful small shop ) ( & is sprout- It appears as if a jungle that wall ing from the hole in the at the Red “Flowershop is the Lion” unique or hotel room with their arrangements. * ^ you can ﬁnd everything from everything from can ﬁnd you to glass and teaspoons silver door handles. Steps in a colourful Art Nouveau Art Nouveau Steps in a colourful an building, this shop offers absinth, as assortment of Czech from elsewhere as absinth well are free. Tastings in Europe. (plum brandy), Slivovitz wines and liquor, becherovka special cannabis beers are also on sale. exposition representing the representing the exposition industry wine to both Czech You visitors. foreign and Czech take part in their can even educational activities and wine tasting programmes. offering a variety of products a variety of products offering to from jewellery and ceramics and replicas of old home textiles weapons. 19 • Map C3 19

V Ráji Right Karmelitská 21 • Map C3 d U lužického semináře 7 U lužického

d Tomášská 10 • Map C2 10 Tomášská Shops d American Heating American Around the corner from Obchod vším možným Obchod Castle New under Just If you can’t bring yourself to to bring yourself can’t If you U bílého jablka This bookstore and publish- This V Ráji Located in the formerly in the formerly Located Material-Glass Store Material-Glass

Clothes shop in Malá Strana Malá Strana Clothes shop in

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@ ! • Map D3 the US Embassy is a shop the US Embassy is a shop specializing in restoration and sales of historical stoves. to want if you Great news coal- Strana’s Malá export scented atmosphere home with you. Steps, at the end of Nerudova Steps, at the end of Nerudova Street, this small shop sells puppets, gifts, original Czech ceramics, jewellery, art toys, and enamel tableware. leave Prague, take it with you: take it with you: Prague, leave this shop sells adorable ceramic of the surrounding miniatures houses and other monuments. fortiﬁed market yard of of yard market fortiﬁed this simply Granovský Palace, designed but cosy showroom crystalhas unique collections of pieces. ing house specializes in foreign in foreign ing house specializes Dictionaries, books on Prague. other calendars, postcards and on items in 21 languages are offer. Left Bohemia Bagel Right Hospůdka Na Čertovce Cafés and Pubs

Bohemia Bagel surprised if every face turns to ! It’s hard to believe now, meet you. Serves excellent but Prague had no bagels until Pilsner. d Nerudova 2 • Map C2 American entrepreneurs opened this shop here in 1997, serving V Lázních fresh-baked bagels, sandwiches & With its old furniture and and endless cups of coffee. Open candle lights on every table, V until 7pm. d Lázeňská 19 • Map C3 Lázních (in Spas) is made for rainy nights. Try the mulled wine. Hospůdka Na Čertovce d Lázeňská 6 • Map D3 @ This Kampa Island pub serves good beer and coffee at a fraction Café Bella Vida of the price on the other side of * This café serves its own d Hroznová 6 • Map D3

Around Town – Malá Strana Around Town the block. coffee blend and delectable mini desserts and sandwiches. U zeleného čaje d Malostranské nábřezí 3 • Map D4 £ Serving imported teas, sandwiches and salads, “At the Green VIVO Gallery Tea” offers a welcome change ( This tiny wine cellar sells from the ubiquitous beer and excellent imported and domestic fried food. d Nerudova 19 • Map C2 wines. If the tables out front are full, take your bottle to Petřín Restaurant and Beer Hill. d Maltézské náměstí 3 • Map C3 $ Parlor Čertovka The stairway leading to this café’s St Nicholas Café riverside patio is so narrow it ) St Nick’s is the expat bar of needs its own trafﬁc lights. They choice in Malá Strana. From the say President Václav Havel took corner table in the back, you can Pink Floyd here for beer. d U hear absinthe-induced whispers lužického semináře 24 • Map D2 bouncing off the vaulted ceiling. d Tržiště10 • Map C3 Bar Bar % The salads, wafﬂes and Malostranská crêpes served here make an N ERUDOVA excellent light lunch, but you’ll ÚVOZ MOSTECKÁ

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88 Recommend your favourite pub on traveldk.com Price Categories For a three-course K under Kč300 meal for one with half KK Kč300–Kč500 a bottle of wine (or KKK Kč500–Kč700 equivalent meal), taxes KKKK Kč700–Kč1000 and extra charges. KKKKK over Kč1000 Around Town – Malá Strana Above Cantina Restaurants Cantina Gitanes ! The best Mexican food in & A short walk from the Prague. The fajitas are great; try Charles Bridge, this unpretent- the chicken and banana variety. ious restaurant serves the best Book ahead. d Újezd 38 • Map C4 of Dalmatian cuisine. d Tržiště 7 • 257 317173 • Dis. access • KKK • Map C3 • 257 530163 • KKK

Pálffy Palác The Little Whale (U malé @ This ﬁne-dining establish- * velryby) ment with a view of the castle The Little Whale offers new terraces seems to revel in its tat- twists on old classics in an tered splendour. d Valdštejnská 14 affordable “Czech brasserie” • Map D2 • 257 530522 • KKKKK style. With plenty of choices from calamari to steaks and the £ Malostranská Beseda special Little Whale seafood pie. This traditional Czech d Maltézské námĕstí 15 • Map C3 • 257 restaurant offers “forgotten” 214703 • Dis. access • KKK specialities such as leg of cockerel cooked in a wine-plum ( Malostranská restaurace sauce with fried potato dumplings. Good pub food. If cigarette d Malostranské námĕstí 21 • Map C2 smoke bothers you, look else- • 257 409112 • KK where. d Karmelitská 25 • Map C3 • 257 531418 • Dis. access • KK U Patrona $ The Continental and Czech El Centro cuisine will please gourmets; the ) The Spanish owners and balcony overlooking Charles imported chefs make sure the Bridge will delight romantics. paella is just right, at this d Dražického náměstí 4 • Map D3 authentic and popular eatery. • 257 530725 • KKKKK d Maltézské náměstí 9 • Map C3 • 257 533343 • Dis. access • KK % U Maltézských rytířů For a local treat, have Malostranská the venison Chateaubriand. N ERUDOVA d Prokopská 10 • Map C3 • 257 530075 ÚVOZ MOSTECKÁ • KKKK

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J Ú serves a mix of Continental EZD classics and fusion cuisine. d Na Kampě 8b • Map D3 • 800 152672 VÍTĚZNÁ • Dis. access • KKKKK

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 89 cards and serve vegetarian meals 90 Around Town – Prague Castle and Hradčany interesting sights for art andhistorylovers, aswellromantichiddenlanesinteresting sightsforart with from theravagesofwarandmodernization.Theareaabounds seat toVienna,Hradčanyseemedbecomepreservedintime,savingit other needsofamodernempire.WhentheHabsburgsremoved theimperial defences wereremoved, makingroomforgardens,paradegroundsand ofPraguetotheChurch.Atcastle,primitive growing importance visitors seetoday. TheLoreto shrinetotheVirginMarydemonstrated Renaissance andBaroquereconstructionsintheareacreatedmuchofwhat servants’ hovels and,afterthecataclysmicfireof1541,grandpalaces. Hradčany. Thesurrounding townwasfoundedin1320,becominghometo Golden Lane F Prague CastleandHradčany Left K E P L NÁSPU E R Loreto Right its attendant cathedral tower overlook the city fromthelonghillknownasits attendantcathedraltoweroverlook thecity O V 9TH CENTURY BOŘIVOJ THE IN BY PRINCE OUNDED NA A

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ŽI POD CK KLÁROV BR É H U O SEMINÁ SKO U Around Town – Prague Castle and Hradčany 91 Royal Gardens Royal regret the may Visitors St Vitus’s St Vitus’s Cathedral Gothic splendour of The Loreto white onion-domed The (see pp12–13). U Prašného mostu • Map C1 • Open mostu U Prašného May–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Jun–Jul: daily; Jun–Jul: 10am–6pm May–Oct: • Dis. access • Free 10am–9pm d $ @ £ disappearance of the maze and disappearance of the maze pineapple trees that once featured appreciate the here, but will likely lions. II’s absence of Rudolph Within the English-style garden Presidential are the former (the First Lady didn’t Residence Game Ball sgrafﬁtoed it), the like Summer Hall and the Royal as Belvedere. also known Palace, St Vitus’s spires can be seen can be seen spires Vitus’s St from almost every vantage but don’t point in Prague, to see miss the opportunity its beautiful stained-glass close and gargoyles windows up of this 17th-century towers are like complex church something out a fairytale, it’s but to choose whether you up to you of in the reconstruction believe house, the Mary’s Virgin the Santa Casa, at the heart of the building (see pp20–21).

been, and currently been, and currently Prague CastlePrague of first and main focus The Golden Portal, St Vitus’s Cathedral Vitus’s St Golden Portal, ! CastlePrague in winter determined . Its determined (see pp8–11) often survival of an face in the history turbulent only seems to heighten the castle’s and fascination. attractiveness appearance, Despite its medieval of a the castle is still as much political stronghold as it has always of the serves as the office Klaus. Václav president, country’s most tourists’ visit to the city of most tourists’ is the gloriously ornate Prague castle complex and varied 92 Around Town – Prague Castle and Hradčany house signs.Rudolph II’s choleric still displaying theirdecorative They remainunchanged by time, former burneddown in1541. for castleworkers after the replace themedieval slumsbuilt built inthe17th to century picturesque low houseswere weather permitting. The in town for romanticstrolling, World), perhapsthebeststreet MoatisNovýSvětthe Stag (New (see pp20–21)andattheheadof ^ at 10am. eachserenades thecity morning quartet oftheCastleGuard pavilion, fromwhich abrass century. Halfway upisamusic Hradčany renovation inthe18th Empress Maria Theresa’s steps were reconstructed during although theoriginal hill rightabouthere, stretch climbedthe to thecastle. The last Republiky (seep73) the Námĕstí Municipal Houseon fromthethe distance of Poděbrady, covered coronation ofGeorge 15th for century the intheestablished The Royal Route, % pedestrians accessto bothhalves hunting park.Rudolph IIissaidto wooded gorge with hispetlions. The Powder Bridge’s earthworks chasing deeraroundthenarrow, When the Stag MoatwasWhen theStag not have beenparticularlyfond of fulfilling itsdefensive duties, Steps New Castle Nestled below theLoreto Nový Svět Prague’s rulers useditasa were excavated topermit Share your travelrecommendations ontraveldk.com d MapC2 Stag Moat of themoat.

Nový Svět

castle’s easterngate.Local Malostranská metrotothe entrance leadsfromthe the Prague Castle’s “back-door” and even theirfamily. themselves, theirneighbours coerced intocompromising who were broughthereand Kapucínská 2honoursthose The plaqueonthewall at picture-postcard neighbourhood. an interrogation centreinthis Communist secretpolicehad It seemsacruel joke, butthe & d nearby churchbells insufferable. apparently found thenoiseof p35) lived atNo.1and astronomer Tycho deBrahe Old Castle Steps Old Castle * Map A2 of Police Torture Monument to Victims The relatively gentleslopeof Steps Old Castle d Map A2 (see Around Town – Prague Castle and Hradčany 93

berg berg New Castle St Vitus’s St Vitus’s p97). (see (see vola U Černého Start your day with a brisk with a brisk Start day your climb up the , and time your Steps the 10am ascent to hear quartet. Castle Guard brass the a stroll through After leavescenic grounds, the and walk castle behind through Hradčanské west pass the you As náměstí. imposing Schwarzen the set amid Palace, that buildings Renaissance the square, take surround some time to view art and the Czech Baroque Old Masters collection at Sternberg Palace. up Loretánská to walk Now where náměstí, Loretánské Černín ﬁnd the vast you’ll at the staring down Palace (see pp20–21). Loreto and its Explore the latter odd gallery of saints before Loreta at Restaurant lunch (see for a pickled sausage sausage a pickled p96) for and a glass of beer. Coo over the street’s the street’s Coo over piebald houses and follow to back Kanovnická náměstí. Hradčanské rest of the afternoon The will be taken up with a tour of the unmissable CastlePrague (see pp8–11), , (see pp12–13) Cathedral of other and the myriad in the castle attractions complex. ﬁnd your end the day, To to Loretánské back way náměstí 1 and the famed pub Exit Loretánské náměstí náměstí Exit Loretánské past the Capuchin monastery and follow Černínská downhill, . Svět pausing on Nový Morning Afternoon A Day in Hradčany A Day Map D2 d Map B2 d Map B2 d View of Prague and the Vltava from Hradčany from Vltava and the of Prague pages: View Following Radnické schody Radnické Steps lead Courthouse The Hradčanské náměstí Hradčanské visitors enter this Many

Hradčanské náměstí Hradčanské

) ( artists and artisans line the line the and artisans artists from selling everything steps, polished prints to watercolour the steps are stones. Below gardens. terraced from Hradčany’s former mayoral mayoral former from Hradčany’s the hotel Zlatá residence, now the old courthouse at to Hvězda, are At the bottom Loretánská 1. of St John two statues, and St Nepomuk on the left in Jesus the infant with Joseph garb on the right. Renaissance more steps than is are There immediately apparent, making up a convenient the pub halfway point. stop-off square backwards, trying ﬁt to square backwards, spires in their view- Vitus’s St away eyes your Tear ﬁnders. face western from the castle’s see, among other and you’ll buildings, the Renaissance and Palace Archbishop’s colourful Palace the grim Schwarzenberg In the green across the way. from centre is a plague column opposite the castle is the 1726; one of now Palace, Toskánský Affairs’s the Ministry of Foreign buildings.

Left U Černého vola Right Café Savoy Pubs and Cafés U Černého vola Café Savoy ! Part of the proceeds from ^ This café feels just like a the pub “At the Black Ox” go to Prague café should, with high help the nearby school for the ceilings, elegant ﬁxtures and blind. Watching the regulars huge windows. Along with a knock back litre after litre of standard menu, the café also has beer, you can see why. a gourmet menu and offers a d Loretánské náměstí 1 • Map A2 selection of pastries to enjoy with a coffee. d Vítězná 5 • Map C4 The Strahov Monastic @ Brewery Café Galerie Located in the Strahov Monastery & Situated in the Sternberg founded by King Vladislav II in Palace, this is a good spot to enjoy 1142, this restored brewery has a a cup of coffee and a baguette or capacity for 350 guests, split a light meal after viewing the between the courtyard, restaurant Castle and before heading off to and the brewery itself. visit the other palaces nearby. d Strahovské nádvoří 301 • Map A2 d Hradčanské náměstí 15 • Map B2

Café Poet Lobkovický Palace £ An out-of-the-way, peaceful * This pleasant and smart café in the castle’s Gardens on restaurant offers light lunches the Bastion, where you can rest and suppers with a view of the over a cup of tea or coffee. Light city. The café in the courtyard is

Around Town – Prague Castle and Hradčany Around Town snacks, too. d Zahrada na Baště, the place to end your tour of the Prague Castle • Map C1 castle. d Jiřská 3 • Map C2

Kajetánka Café Gallery $ Sip an espresso on the ( In the narrow alleys leading rooftop while peering through into Golden Lane are a number one of the telescopes at the city of pavement cafés offering below. The quiet patio has large coffees, sandwiches, wine and tables where you can lunch and spirits. Outdoor seating in good plan your visit to the castle next weather. d Zlatá ulička u Daliborky 42 door. d Ke Hradu • Map C1 • Map C1

U Labutí Art Coffee Gallery % “At the Swans” serves Pilsner ) Visitors can escape the Urquell and some substantial crowds at this café hidden in the dishes, such as wiener schnitzel arcade on the way to the castle. and goulash, on its garden terrace Relax with coffee and strudel, or overlooking the upper Stag Moat. beer and sandwiches. d Hradčanské náměstí 11 • Map B2 d Lovetánská 3 • Map B2

96 Recommend your favourite café on traveldk.com Price Categories For a three-course K under Kč300 meal for one with half KK Kč300–Kč500 a bottle of wine (or KKK Kč500–Kč700 equivalent meal), taxes KKKK Kč700–Kč1000 and extra charges. KKKKK over Kč1000 Around Town – Prague Castle and Hradčany Above Hradčany Restaurant Restaurants Hradčany Restaurant U Zlaté hrušky ! This ﬁne-dining restaurant at & “At the Golden Pear” serves the Hotel Savoy is one of the delicious Continental and Czech best in the country. d Keplerova 6 game dishes in picturesque Nový • Map A2 • 224 302430 • KKKK Svět. d Nový Svět 3 • Map A2 • 220 941244 • KKKKK Peklo @ Continental dining in a grotto Restaurant Loreta beneath Strahov Monastery. The * A simple but reliable Czech house speciality, the “stuffed eatery with aspirations to be devil’s hoof”, is worth ordering. something grander. Sit outdoors d Strahovské nadvoří 1 • Map A3 • 220 for a lunchtime serenade from 516652 • KKKK the Loreto carillion. d Loretánské náměstí 8 • Map A2 • 220 517369 • KK U Císařů (At the Emperors) £ This restaurant serves Restaurant nad Úvozem traditional specialities and ( Meat-and-potatoes dining international favourites. The with sweeping views of Petřín decor includes pewter tableware Hill and Malá Strana. Accessed collections, hunting weapons and by a particularly steep and blacksmith bellows. d Loretánská 5 narrow staircase. d Loretánská 15 • Map B2 • 220 518484 • KKKKK • Map B2 • No phone • KK

Malý Buddha Cowboys $ The “Little Buddha” serves a ) The marvellous views from wide range of potent teas and the roof-top terrace outdo the Vietnamese food. No smoking. culinary aspects of this chic d Úvoz 46 • Map B2 • 220 513894 • No dinner club. Dine on the credit cards • K restaurant’s enjoyable steaks and seafood against a lavishly % U ševce Matouše eccentric decor. d Nerudova 40 “At the Cobbler Matouš” has • Map C2 • 800 152672 • KKKKK made an art of melting cheese U PRAŠNÉHO on beefsteaks. The low, vaulted JE LENÍ MARIÁNSKÉ HRADBY room is cosy. d Loretánské náměstí 4

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E affords incomparable views of N St Vitus; the beer-hall serves a NERU DOVA ÚVOZ sublime suckling pig. d U Prašného mostu 6 • Map B1 • 224 372361 • KKKK

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 97 cards and serve vegetarian meals 98 Around Town – Josefov I Josefov Left vian JewsperishedintheHolocaust CzechandMora- across theReich–nearly80,000 stored valuableslootedfromJewishcommunities houses. DuringWorld thesynagogues War II, century, Nouveau making way foravenuessuchasPařížská withitsfineArt wasrazedinthelate19th poorestresidents.Thequarter by thecity’s these strictures,manyJewslefttheghetto,whichbecameaslumoccupied layer uponintheOldJewishCemetery. removed WhenEmperorJosefII restricted wastheirallottedspacethattheywereobligedtoburydead today, working,studying andworshippingintheconfinesofghetto.So is wheretheJosefov quarter were obligedtoliveinawalledcommunity Vltava’s leftbankinthe13thcentury. 500years,Prague’sJews For thenext most Mánesův

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S KÁ REVOLUČNÍ Around Town – Josefov 99 Jewish Town Hall Town Jewish hands of the The Maiselova 18 • Map L3 18 Maiselova d town hall’s Rococo Rococo hall’s town as backwards, turn clock on letters the Hebrew $ and chapels. The The and chapels. part here, as artworks collec- gallery’s of the some of tion, comprise medieval the best Czech . art (see pp28–9) its face are read from are read from its face Maiselova 18 • Map L3 18 Maiselova d High Synagogue the along with Constructed Jewish Town Hall Town Jewish % right to left. The building was building was The right to left. to gifts one of Mordecai Maisel’s his community in the late 16th century (see p35), but it was style in Baroque in renovated 1763. • Closed to the public • Closed to the public town hall with funds from hall with funds from town Mordecai Maisel, the High built in elegant was Synagogue fashion. Renaissance Subsequent reconstructions but the updated the exterior, interior retains its original stucco there are also Inside vaults. scrolls and Torah impressive mantles.

The Old Jewish Cemetery, Ceremonial Hall, Maisel, Pinkas, The Old Jewish Spanish Museum in Prague and Klausen synagogues comprise the Jewish

St Agnes’s Convent St Agnes’s Gothic convent, lovely This Old-New Synagogue to the Old Jewish Attached Old Jewish Cemetery Old Jewish sight of hundreds of The

Old Jewish Cemetery Old Jewish £

@ ! now part of the National Gallery, part now is full of spectacular altarpieces as as well panels, and wall cloisters original 13th-century Cemetery, Europe’s oldest oldest Cemetery, Europe’s surviving synagogue has history, witnessed a turbulent including pogroms and fire, and been a place of refuge has often beleaguered Jewish the city’s for Its name derives community. that another from the fact this built after synagogue was but “new”, one, taking the title still It is destroyed. later this was Prague’s the religious centre for Jewish small, present-day community (see pp24–5). graves, their leaning headstones their leaning headstones graves, other, on top of each crumbling and unforgettable is a moving – a testament to the experience in Prague, treatment of the Jews ghetto confined to their own Although there is in death. even number no definite record of the of burial sites here, to appreciate the depth of the graveyard, height compare the gravestones’ on U with that of the street level (see pp22–3). Starého hřbitova 100 Around Town – Josefov Bohemia. Ironically,the Third other synagoguesacross of itlootedby theNazisfrom candlesticks andceramics,much and otheritemssuch as collection ofJewish silverwork Insideisawonderfulstyle. It was laterrebuiltinNeo-Gothic and much oftheghetto in1689. in Prague, untilfiredestroyed it tion itwas thelargestsynagogue Turks. At thetimeofitsconstruc- in Bohemia’s war againstthe the Jewish mayor’s financialhelp late 16th ingratitude century, for private synagoguehereinthe Maisel permissiontobuildhis ^ Maisel Synagogue pedagogue andaleadingHebrew Bezalel (1512–1609) isassociated with numerouslocallegendsbut surrounding Loew isthatofthe Golem, aclay automatonthe One ofPrague’s mostfamed Rudolf IIgave Mordecai Maisel Synagogue defend theghetto Foremost amongthemyths rabbi supposedlycreatedto residents, Rabbi Loew ben he was alsoapioneering scholar ofthetimes. Share your travelrecommendations ontraveldk.com Rabbi Loew (see p52) . Sun–Fri; Nov–Mar: 9am–4:30pm• Adm • MapL3Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm preparing thedeadfor thegrave. the complex Jewish rituals for Society. The exhibits insidedetail the Jewish community’s Burial Ceremonial Hallwas hometo mock Romanesque fashion, the manuscripts. exhibitions, includingprintsand area, itisnow housesJewish most ofthesynagoguesin Loew the taught prayer hall(klausen)whereRabbi 1694 onsiteofaschool and nave buildingwas constructed in thisBaroque single- Cemetery, & as an “extinct race” in Prague, dedicatedtotheJews Reich plannedtobuildamuseum Ceremonial Hall * d Sun–Fri; Nov–Mar: 9am–4:30pm• Adm • MapK2Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm 9am–4:30pm • Adm Apr–Oct: 9am–6pmSun–Fri; Nov–Mar: U Starého hřbitova UStarého 3•MapK2Open Built intheearly1900s in Ceremonial Hall Abutting theOldJewish Klausen Synagogue d U Starého hřbitova UStarého 1 cabala. Like . d Maiselova 10 Around Town – Josefov 101 Jewish Jewish Maisel Maisel Klausen Klausen Old-New Old-New Old Jewish Old Jewish , Synagogue Pinkas . Spanish Synagogue door with its Hebrew door with its Hebrew away, feet a few Just clock. at to lunch treat yourself . (see p103) Pravda A sobering place to start A sobering place to appreciate how the day, Jewish large the Czech is community once was, the victims where Holocaust their home are listed by Then village and name. take a stroll through the adjoining , (see pp22–3) Cemetery where a guide will help grave- find significant you lighten the mood, To sites. proceed to the on the right, Synagogue Jewish on with its exhibits life. and family festivals At the end of U Starého the is hřbitova (see pp24–5). Synagogue find treasures where you’ll seat. Loew’s Rabbi like Exiting, note the Hall (see p99) next Town and a concert and a concert (see p103) of sacred music at the Spanish Synagogue. After lunch, meander meander lunch, After among the antiques shops en route to the , where you’ll Synagogue find the first part of an settle- on Jewish exhibit and ment in Bohemia – it continues at Moravia the at yourself Refresh (see Praha Bakeshop around the corner p102) tour at ending your before (see Convent St Agnes’s pp28–9) with its exhibits art. medieval of Czech Josefov-style A truly a kosher involves evening dinner at King Solomon Morning Afternoon A Day in the Jewish in the Jewish A Day Quarter Vézeňská Vézeňská d Široká 3 • Map K3 • Open d

Spanish Synagogue Moorish interior opulent The Pinkas Synagogue Pinkas War II, World After this

Alms box, Klausen Synagogue Alms box,

) ( with its swirling arabesques and with its swirling arabesques and this late decoration gives stucco synagogue its name. 19th-century It stands on the site of a building the Old School, as known house ﬁrst Jewish Prague’s Škroup, František of worship. national composer of the Czech the organist here in anthem, was century. the mid-19th 15th-century Gothic building building Gothic 15th-century Renaissance with some early became a monument to features 80,000 Czech the estimated of the victims and Moravian the names and Holocaust – to have those known dates of all Terezín in the perished either concentration camp or other camps across extermination on Eastern Europe are written memorial. as a moving the wall is the exhibition Equally moving made of writings and paintings (of whom there the children by under more than 10,000 were in conﬁned the age of 15) Terezín. Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm Sun–Fri; Nov–Mar: Nov–Mar: Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm Sun–Fri; Adm 9am–4:30pm • 1 • Map M2 • Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm 1 • Map M2 • Open Adm 9am–4:30pm • Nov–Mar: Sun–Fri; Left Le Patio Right Pastries, Bakeshop Praha Shops Spanish Synagogue Arzenal ! Gift Shop ^ Bořek Šípek’s modern design Exquisite torah pointers, gallery offers unique glass vases, yarmulkas (skull caps) and other bowls, chandeliers and china unique gifts, such as a watch in products, as well as glass the style of the clock on the accessories such as glass trees. Jewish Town Hall (see p99). Original chairs and sofas are also d Vězeňská 1 • Map L2 available. d Valentinská 11 • Map K3

Le Patio Bakeshop Praha @ This Pařížská shop sells & Grab a bag of rugalach, Around Town – Josefov Around Town unique home furnishings, and brownies or other mouth- pieces made of glass, iron, watering treats for on-the-go leather and porcelain. Two other nourishment, or lunch on an Prague locations, at Národní 22 egg-salad sandwich and coffee. and V Újezd 19, also have cafés. Salads and quiches also to take d Dušní 8 • Map L2 away. d Kozí 1 • Map M1

Hodinářství (Old Clocks) Antique Kaprova £ If you have trouble ﬁnding * This serious collector’s shop this small shop selling old clocks, specializes in prints and small simply stand at the corner of decorative items such as clocks Maiselova and Široká streets and and lamps. If you don’t ﬁnd what you’ll hear the old cuckoo clock. you’re looking for, just ask and d Maiselova 16 • Map L3 they’ll point you in the right direction. d Kaprova 12 • Map K3 Magic Garnet Museum $ Prague Antique Cinolter This shop is also a small ( Art lovers should peruse this museum devoted to the history small gallery’s sale exhibition of of the mining and cutting of local art. The original oils and these semi-precious stones. sketches capture Josefov’s d Maiselova 1 • Map L3 bittersweet warmth and humanity. d Maiselova 9 • Map L3 Franz Kafka Society % Bookshop Alma (Mahlerová) Antique Works by Franz Kafka in German ) What don’t they sell? Alma and in translation, as well as other Antique is a bazaar stocked with specialized literature and books on Persian rugs, jewellery, Meissen Prague and related subjects can porcelain, crystal and nesting be found here. Guidebooks, dolls. This is one of the largest souvenirs and gifts can also be antiques dealers in Prague. purchased. d Široká 14 • Map L3 d Valentinská 7 • Map K3

102 For tips on shopping in Prague See p132 Price Categories For a three-course K under Kč300 meal for one with half KK Kč300–Kč500 a bottle of wine (or KKK Kč500–Kč700 equivalent meal), taxes KKKK Kč700–Kč1000 and extra charges. KKKKK over Kč1000 Around Town – Josefov Above Café Franz Kafka Cafés and Restaurants Café Franz Kafka King Solomon ! Dark wooden fixtures and ^ Prague’s foremost kosher black-tie service give this café a restaurant has separate facilities distinguished, Old World atmos- for meat and dairy dishes. Closes phere. Take time out from sight- for Friday sabbath. d Široká 8 • Map seeing for a good café Vienna L3 • 224 818752 • KKKKK and apple strudel. d Široká 12 • Map L3 • 222 318945 • No credit cards • K SOUL Restaurant-Grill & The menu offers a wide @ Paneria range of dishes from Czech and Pick up ready-made international cuisines. d Dušní 9 sandwiches for a picnic on the • Map L2 • 222 313049 • KK steps of the nearby Rudolfinum (see p36). You’ll find branches of Barock Paneria at locations throughout * The place to see and be the city. d Kaprova 3 • Map K3 • No seen, with its metal bar and credit cards • K floor-to-ceiling windows. Prague’s elite come here to sample the £ Les Moules excellent cocktails. d Pařížská 24 This Belgian beer café offers • Map L2 • 222 329221 • KKKKK typical brasserie cuisine along with a variety of shellfish dishes. Modrá Zahrada A good selection of French ( Usually crowded with people cheeses is also on offer. enjoying the large, thin-crust d Pařížská TřIda 19 • Map L2 • 222 pizzas. d Široká 18 • Map L2 • K 315022 • Dis. access • KKKKK Pravda Le Café Colonial ) Fusion cuisine here is $ Enjoy an espresso and combined with a cool ambience. croissant in the stylish bistro or Popular with the upper crust, so sit down to a marvellous French book ahead. d Pařížská 17 • Map L2 dinner in the dining room proper. • 222 326203 • Dis. access • KKKKK d Široká 6 • Map L3 • 224 818322 • Dis.

I Š K U R A N T access • KKKK F N A

PAŘÍŽSKÁ

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This Cuban-Creole restaurant O U H D Í N A C P E offers grilled ﬁsh and meats O T OB S I U L

using authentic ingredients. DLOUHÁ

7 KOZÍ Popular with the business crowd, 1 PAŘÍŽSKÁ it boasts a great atmosphere and DLOUHÁ d welcoming staff. Kaprova 5 • Map Staroměstská K3 • 224 813922 • Dis. access • KKKK

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 103 cards and serve vegetarian meals 104 Around Town – New Town

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SHI KÁ KÁ N GT ON OV A Statue, Franciscan Garden 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Palackého náměstí New Town Hall Karlovo náměstí TheGlobeBookstore National Theatre Národní třída Franciscan Garden Na Příkopě Náměstí Republiky Wenceslas Square and Coffeehouse Sights Around Town – New Town 105

. Map N5 d (see p41) Na Příkopě a moat protecting Formerly Franciscan Garden Franciscan into moved Franciscans The

Map N6 d $ £ the city’s eastern flank, Na Na eastern flank, the city’s fashion is Prague’s Příkopě counting Benetton, boulevard, in only branch (the Gant, Korres and Guess Republic) the Czech among its big-name stores. Shoppers jam the pedestrian cafés, zone and pavement streaming between the gleaming Centre and Shopping Myslbek dům, with its Slovanský The cinema. multiplex 10-screen Želivský Hussite firebrand Jan occu- on the site now preached shopping mall, another pied by Palace. the Černá Růže this area near Wenceslas Square Wenceslas this area near reclaiming the former in 1604, grounds The Carmelite monastery. of Our Lady of Church and nearby into decay had fallen the Snow but the Hussite civil war, following the monks beautifully restored gardens remained The them. closed to the public until 1950, when the Communists thought sharing. worth were they for lost love little Although there’s the dictatorship of the proletariat, the gardens remain popular with couples and pigeon- kissing young pensioners feeding

Na Příkopě Map P3 d The odd couple of the Art Art odd couple of the The Náměstí Republiky Wenceslas Wenceslas Square

Náměstí Republiky

@ ! horse former This in contrast to market, counter- its medieval Town part in the Old , expres- (see pp14–17) ses the history of 20th-century Prague, Art from its beautiful to façades Nouveau the memories of the marches, many political protests and shaped celebrations that have years the past 100 the city over (see pp30–31). Nouveau Municipal House and Municipal House and Nouveau Tower the Neo-Gothic Powder are the centrepiece of Náměstí Square), Republiky (Republic National Czech the facing and the stern façade Bank’s Theatre. Hybernia renovated Chopin Frédéric composer The at a house that briefly stayed stood at the corner of Hybernská the Behind and Senovážná. at Hybernská 7, Theatre, Hybernia home of the Lenin is the former closed in was Museum, which the Communists had after 1991 unassuming The lost power. huddles in of St Joseph Church the northeast corner of the square. 106 Around Town – New Town and truncheons met. Národní 20markswheremarchers plaque underthearcadeat its way to Wenceslas Square. A pro-democracy march asitmade 1989, policeputabrutal endtoa supermarket. On17 November and whatisnow the Tesco between theNational Theatre Czechoslovakia beganmidway Hynais’ curtain, celebratedstage ceiling frescoesand Vojtěch To seethestunning allegorical destroyed thebuildingin1883. once in1868 and againafter fire theatre’s construction twice: % Auditorium, National Theatre ^ Wenceslas Squaretakesitsname escalators descendingtothetrain platform, you’ll findtheremains

Patriotic Czechs fundedthe National Theatre of thatbridge,uncovered by from the “Little Bridge” that The endofCommunismin Národní třída workers buildingthemetro. medieval times.Below the spanned themoatherein The areaatthebottom of surface, atthetopof Sign upfor DK’s emailnewsletter ontraveldk.com Můstek d MapL6 refuge here(seep39). Reinhard Heydrich (1904–42), took the assassination of Nazileader Czech responsiblefor resistance, Methodius. The members ofthe is theChurch ofStsCyril and operas. To thewest, onResslova, who wrotelibretti for Smetana’s luminaries asEliškaKrásnohorská, trees aremonumentstosuch with dog-walkers. Among the market, it’s now aparkpopular as Jerusalem’s. Originallyacattle square tothesamedimensions ners buildNew Town’s central a localfollowing (seep112). Holešovice. The café isattracting outdated guidebooksstrandedin 2000, leaving backpackers with here fromitsoriginalhomein English-language Globemoved An expatriate institution, the & d black-light productions(seep64). Magika, whereyou cansee Kate. Next doorisLaterna orDvořák’sstage, Libuše, which debutedonthis here; goodpicks areSmetana’s take inoneoftheoperasstaged Karlovo náměstí * or worse. you abouttheirtravels, for better tonext areeagertotalk table Chances arethepeopleat Národní2•MapE4 and Coffeehouse The GlobeBookstore Charles IV had his city plan- Charles IVhadhiscity Karlovo náměstí d Pštrossova 6•MapE5 The Devil and d MapF5 Around Town – New Town 107

Globe National National Museum of Museum of to (see p111) is the is the (see p112) náměstí. náměstí. the night away or to or to the night away Radost FX , then head to (see p78), then head to (see Square Wenceslas pp30–31) to begin the A quick sightseeing. day’s peep inside the will will Museum (see p36) unless it’s probably sufﬁce a big fan raining or you’re From history. of natural there, proceed to St and statue Wenceslas’s the monument to Com- victims, where munism’s tribute to the can pay you pains. growing nation’s Get in a bit of retail along the square therapy up to Můstek, walk as you then visit the Communism (see p37), ironically located above and a casino. McDonald’s to Národní třída, walk Then a book or and linger over at the newspaper Start your day with with Start day your Evropa at Hotel breakfast for a leisurely lunch. for local, smoky atmosphere. dance a for (see p112) U Havrana obvious choice for dinner, dinner, for choice obvious still If you or after. before the energy, head have to After lunch, head up to the head up to the lunch, After and National Theatre Vltava’s the then follow upstream to Right Bank Jiráskovo should Modern-art buffs Mánes take in Galerie on the way. (see p110) up the hill Resslova Follow of Sts Cyril to the Church and Methodius and its monument to Czecho- resistance ﬁghters. slovak take in In the evening, at the a performance National Theatre; U Matěje Afternoon Morning A Day in New Town A Day Karlovo Karlovo d Map E6 d National Museum and Wenceslas statue at night statue Wenceslas pages: National Museum and Following The riverside square is square is riverside The Palackého náměstí Palackého New Town Hall New Town mob an anti-clerical In 1419,

Sadly, American bombs demolished the monastery’s steeples on St original Baroque as part of 1945, Day Valentine’s War the II World Allies’ military campaign. Emaus Monastery, Palackého náměstí Palackého Emaus Monastery,

) ( named for the 19th-century the 19th-century named for Palacký, historian František integral to the was whose work Stanislav National Revival. monument sweeping Sucharda’s to him stands at the plaza’s northern end, while the modern steeples of the Emaus Monastery rise from the eastern grounds are church The edge. as the Slavonic also known the Monastery, named after the resident Balkan liturgy used (see p52). Benedictines led by Jan Želivský the Jan hurled led by and his council- Catholic mayor Hall Town lors from a New Prague’s in the ﬁrst of window . The (see p11) defenestrations on the building’s Gothic tower a few added was eastern end platform later; its viewing years is open to the public. Crowds base gather round the tower’s to congratulate most Saturdays in the married newly-weds, Gothic hall. building’s náměstí 23 • Map F5 • Tower open Apr– open Tower náměstí 23 • Map F5 • Adm daily • Oct 10am–6pm

Left Galerie Mánes Right Dvořák Museum Galleries and Museums Galerie Mánes Museum of Communism ! Occupying the southern tip ^ A triptych of the dream, of Žofín Island, this contempo- reality and nightmare that was rary art gallery hosts both Czech Communist Czechoslovakia. To ﬁll and foreign artists. d Masarykovo the museum, its creators combed nábřeží 250 • Map E5 • Open 10am–6pm the country for mementos of its Tue–Sun • Adm totalitarian past (see p37).

Galerie Via Art Václav Špála Gallery @ Founded in 1991 as one of & This contemporary gallery the first private galleries in Prague, exhibits works mainly by local this venue exhibits contemporary artists. Its aim is to make art Czech paintings, sculptures and more accessible to the general Around Town – New Town Around Town mixed-media art. It also arranges public by striving to establish a international exhibitions and artist relationship between the two. exchanges. d Resslova 6 • Map E6 d Národní třída 30 • Map L6 • Open 1–7pm Mon, 1–6pm Tue–Sun National Museum Postage Stamp Museum * Palaeontology, mineralogy £ Philatelists’ mouths water and a host of other “ologies”. The over this one. Its exhibitions museum’s collections are scat- illustrate the colourful history of tered throughout the country, but postage stamps in the Czech the Wenceslas Square edifice is a Republic and Europe. Sells com- cultural artifact in its own right memorative sheets and graphic (see p36). d Václavské náměstí 68 works too. d Nové mlýny 2 • Map G4 • Map G5 • Open Oct–Apr: 9am–5pm • Open 9am–noon, 1–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm daily; May–Sep: 10am–6pm (closed first Tue of month) • Adm Museum of the $ City of Prague Police Museum Visitors can explore 19th-century ( The museum documents the Prague with Antonín Langweil’s police’s efforts with engaging scaled replica of the city. d Na exhibits, such as an interactive Poříčí 52 • Map P3 • Open 9am–6pm crime scene. d Ke Karlovu 1 • Map Tue–Sun • Adm G6 • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm

Mucha Museum Dvořák Museum % Art Nouveau artist Alfons ) This Baroque palace houses Mucha is a national hero. Here the 19th-century composer’s you’ll ﬁnd his journals, sketch- piano and viola, as well as other books and paintings, both private memorabilia of his life and work and commercial. d Panská 7 • Map (see p45). d Ke Karlovu 20 • Map G6 N5 • Open 10am–6pm daily • Adm • Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun • Adm

110 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Around Town – New Town 111

V Cípu 1 d

Ostrovní 32 • Map E4 Ostrovní d Ultramarin floor is a simple, ground The v Cípu centrum Billiard billiard, pool Close to 100 Reduta Jazz Club Reduta Jazz Celebrated musicians have Louvre Café Kafka, Max Brod and Franz Jazz Café č. 14 č. Café Jazz artsy with an Popular Opatovická 14 • Map E5 14 Opatovická Národní 20 • Map L6 Národní 20 • Map L6 d ( ) d & d * ^ convivial bar and restaurant. bar convivial fill, you’ll had your you’ve After find a music club downstairs, can dance. Open until where you 4am. tables, and snooker plus four and two table- lanes of bowling or go on Friday tennis sets. Don’t making a without Saturday bar serves The reservation first. drinks, but no food. played here including ex-US here including ex-US played Bill Clinton. Come here President to hear all types of jazz from styles.swing bands to modern their writer friends used to hold a bright, cheerful court here. It’s and conversation place, good for is At the back a bite to eat. classiest pool hall. Prague’s student crowd that seems that seems crowd student lamp determined to blot out the smoke. light with cigarette Otherwise, a comfortable retreat wine. or cheap sipping coffee for • Map P5 (see (see Jazz Café č. 14 č. Café Jazz Šafaříkova 1 • Map H6 d Right

Národni 11 • Map E5 Národni 11

Bělehradská 120 • Map G6 120 Bělehradská Nightspots d d

N11 ﬁrst New Billed as Prague’s Lucerna of Prague’s granddaddy The Tons of amazing international of amazing international Tons Palác Akropolis Palác Tucked into a residential into a residential Tucked Zvonařka Late at night, club kids take take Late at night, club kids Radost FX

Radost FX

$ £

@ ! Left York nightclub, N11 combines a combines a nightclub, N11 York sleek discotheque with good pub-style dining. Open until the early hours of the morning. Strangely, journalists and medical per cent a 10 receive staff is owner discount – the club’s both. clubs, the cavernous Lucerna Lucerna clubs, the cavernous as rock jazz as well hosts live and dance parties, including the popular Eighties and ever Nineties nights (see p67). acts have played here. A popular A popular here. played acts have locals, with Prague music venue a touring band one can catch you night and a local singer the next (see p66). neighbourhood is one of the the neighbourhood is one of Good less hectic nightspots. city’s and drink. Summer guests food from the the view can enjoy large patio. over the disco, lounge and café. the disco, lounge and café. over a broader demographic By day, the good vegetarian comes for is especially brunch Sunday food. Open until 5am popular. p66). Left The Globe Bookstore and Coffeehouse Right U Fleků Cafés and Pubs

The Globe Bookstore U Matěje ! and Coffeehouse ^ This lovely bar and restaurant The quality of the food varies with an old-world feel serves with the Globe’s mercurial staff, Czech-style meals, cold Pilsner but the overall trend is upward. and local wines. d Křemencova Weekend brunch is the best time 1738/17 • Map E5 • 224 930768 • KK to visit (see p106). Rocky O’Reilly’s Solidní Nejistota & Offering all a Celtophile @ The name is bigger than the could ask for, this lively pub has café. Serves good coffee, live music in the evenings, homemade pastries and a dozen football on the TV, a roaring ﬁre ﬂavours of ice cream. d Pštrossova and plenty of stout. The food’s Around Town – New Town Around Town 21 • Map E5 fair as well. d Štěpánská 32 • Map F5

U Fleků Shakespeare and Sons £ Exactly what you might * Soak up the café’s laidback expect from the city that created vibe with English-language books the “Beer-Barrel Polka”. U Fleků and coffee. The owners have is probably the city’s most maintained a community feel, popular beer hall, and the prices offering a variety of events and reﬂect it (see p60). d Křemencova readings with Bernard beer on 11 • Map E5 tap. d Krymská 12 • 271 740839 • Dis. access • K Zlatá hvězda $ This is a sports bar for Café 35 serious fans. Watch sports on (Students at the Institut their multiple screens while Français and other Francophones dripping barbecue sauce down gather here for coffee, quiche your front. d Ve Smečkách 12 and a read of the French news- • Map G5 papers. The garden is a peaceful

Á spot on sunny days. K

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novel The Good S Muzeum serves some of the Soldier Švejk. Author best greasy food in Ž I TNÁ Jaroslav Hašek (see town and a superior Karlovo JEČNÁ p44) set some of the náměstí I.P. Pavlova half-litre of beer. It is pivotal scenes here. open until 5am. d Na bojišti 12–14 • KK d Hálkova 6 • Map G5

112 Recommend your favourite pub on traveldk.com Price Categories For a three-course K under Kč300 meal for one with half KK Kč300–Kč500 a bottle of wine (or KKK Kč500–Kč700 equivalent meal), taxes KKKK Kč700–Kč1000 and extra charges. KKKKK over Kč1000 Around Town – New Town Above Zahrada v opeře Restaurants Dynamo Buffalo Bill’s ! This postmodern diner ^ More Tex than Mex, Buffalo serves dishes such as rump Bill’s is a friendly saloon steak in marinade with thyme featuring good food, country and oregano. A wide selection of music and accommodating staff. single-malt scotches. d Pštrossova Colouring-book place-mats and 29 • Map E5 • 224 932020 • K specials for children. d Vodičkova 9 • Map F4 • 224 948624 • KKK Tulip @ Stylish and earthy, the café Lemon Leaf and wine bar serves American- & Serving Thai and Burmese style breakfasts all day and a specials, the ingredients used wide selection of vegetarian are fresh and the presentation is dishes. d Opatovická 3 • Map E5 • 224 colourful. Service is fast and 930019 • KK friendly. d Myslíkova 14 • Map E5 • 224 919056 • Dis. access • KK Universal £ A popular eatery, serving Jáma Restaurace substantial meals at small * Jama offers delicious Tex- prices. The café is especially Mex and American specialities. It recommended for its vegetarian also has an internet café, video dishes. d V Jirchářích • Map E4 rental shop and an outdoor beer • 224 934416 • Dis. access • KK garden. d V jámě 7 • Map F4 • 224 222383 • KK Restaurace U Pomníku $ This Czech eatery serves Trattoria Cicala traditional food and has a nostalgic ( This authentic Italian eatery atmosphere. Try the lunchtime is a magnet for visiting ﬁlm stars specials (the menu changes every and the like. The fresh pasta day) or the à la carte dinner. can’t be beaten. d Žitná 43 • Map F5 d Gorazdova 1 • 224 923301 • KK • 222 210375 • No credit cards • KKKK

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E M destination. The food S or after a night at is simple but hearty, the State Opera. This Ž I T N Á and the atmosphere is outstanding value Karlovo JEČNÁ lively. d Jungmannovo náměstí I.P. Pavlova for money, too. d náměstí 16 • Map F4 • 221 Legerova 75 • Map G6 111150 • KKK • 224 239685 • KKK

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 113 cards and serve vegetarian meals Left Holešovice Right View of Prague from Smíchov Greater Prague RAGUE’S CITY CENTRE CAN KEEP MOST VISITORS occupied for days, but Pif you’re staying outside the city’s heart, or if you have the time to explore beyond the capital’s walls, the outlying areas offer plenty of surprises. Over the centuries, Prague’s various rulers have used the surrounding countryside as their personal playground, building impressive castles, palaces and parks to which they could escape the often claustrophobic streets and winding alleyways of the city. Even the Communists have left their own kind of functional mark on the area, with useful edifices, towers and exhibition spaces. From

Around Town – Greater Prague Around Town the peaceful parklands of Vyšehrad or the social atmosphere of Letná, to the rowdy nightlife of Žižkov, to the intriguing gardens of Holešovice and Troja, Greater Prague has a diversity that will fulfil almost any Troja Château requirements you might have.

608 Troja Sights 8 Kobylisy 1 Vyšehrad Libeň Nádraží 2 Smíchov Holešovice Holešovice Holešovice 3 Bubeneč Vinohrady Stromovka SKÁ Á NTIN SK 4 Holešovice E V 7 LO É O

V ARG SOK 5 Letná Park HORÁKO ADY MIL Karlín 6 Stromovka 6 Letná 7 Troja Hradčany A Josefov Masarykovo OV NĚV KO 8 Výstaviště nádraží 12 a Staré v

t 9 National Memorial on Malá l Město V Hlavní nádraží the Vítkov Hill Strana Žižkov Vinohrady 0 Žižkov TV Tower Nové SLEZSKÁ Město Náměsti Míru 333 EŇSKÁ FR 5 PLZ AN C O UZSKÁ Anděl RADLICKÁ Vyšehrad VRŠOVICKÁ Vyšehrad Smíchov 4 243 8 Nusle 2 miles 0 km 2

114 Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com Vyšehrad ! The former fortress of Vyšehrad (see p121) is steeped

in legend. Bedřich Around Town – Greater Prague Smetana paid tribute to the second seat of the Přemyslid dynasty that resided here in the 10th century in his opera Libuše and in his rousing patriotic work Má vlast (see Vinohrady p44). The composer is buried here in the National St Ludmila and the Art Nouveau Cemetery, as are many other Vinohrady Theatre. For a bit of luminaries of Czech culture. peace and greenery visit the d Map B6 Havlíčkovy Sady. d Map B6

Smíchov Holešovice @ Today, modern shopping $ Developers are helping this centres and multiplex cinemas former warehouse district make have taken over what used to a comeback. It’s home to the be the city’s main industrial National Gallery’s Veletržní centre. At the heart of the Palace (see pp26–7), and motor district is Anděl metro station, car fans will love the National which still bears traces of its Technical Museum, with its Communist origins – the station exhibits of Czech interwar was originally named “Moscow” vehicles such as Škodas. and was decorated with Soviet d Map B5 • National Technical Museum: murals (see p49). d Map A6 Kostelní 42; Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun; Adm • Dis. access Vinohrady £ Originally the royal vine- Letná Park yards, Vinohrady today is a % A grand staircase leads from gently rolling residential the Vltava riverbank opposite the neighbourhood. The central Josefov quarter (see pp98–103) square, Náměstí Míru, features to a giant metronome. The the Neo-Gothic Church of needle marks time where a mammoth statue of Joseph Stalin once stood before it was demolished in the 1960s (see p48). The surrounding park echoes with the clatter of skateboards and barking dogs. Travelling circuses sometimes set up in the open ﬁelds, but Letná’s popular beer garden is probably its biggest draw. Čechův Most, with Letná Park in the background d Map E1 115 Žižkov & Troja This working-class neighbourhood The riverside gardens and came into being when city fathers château of Troja are an excellent divided the expanding Královské destination for a day trip. Cross Vinohrady district. The inhabitants the Vltava from Stromovka, take of the area thumbed their noses in the château’s beautiful garden at Habsburg rule and named their and art collection (see p120), the new district after the Hussite Baroque chapel of St Clare and warrior. Žižkovites’ contrary nature the zoological gardens. There is a runs deep, even having a separatist movement which bus from here that will take you promotes an independent to the nearest metro station Republic of Žižkov. An alternative (Nádrazí Holešovice). d Map B5 culture thrives around the Akropolis club and the Divus Výstaviště artists collective, and increasingly, * The fair grounds here were numerous ethnic restaurants are originally built at the end of the bringing an international touch 19th century to host trade shows, to the area. but nowadays you’re more likely to see a hockey match or a rock Stromovka concert at Tesla Arena, or a ^ King Otakar established the Shakespeare performance at a royal game park here in the 13th replica of London’s Globe century; it’s been a public garden Theatre. There’s an amusement since 1804 (stromovka means park with rides for the kids, an “place of trees”). Stroll, skate or outdoor cinema and the oddly Around Town – Greater Prague Around Town simply enjoy the ancient trees by charming musical Křižík Fountain day and visit the planetarium by (see p51). If you want to see the night. The ﬁsh ponds were a original statues that graced creation of Rudolf II – the Charles Bridge, rather than emperor drilled a tunnel under today’s replicas, pay a visit to the Letná to bring in water to supply Lapidárium, where they are them (see p41). d Map B5 preserved (see p120). d Map B5

National Memorial on the Vítkov Hill

116 Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Three Afternoons in Greater Prague Afternoon One

See Vyšehrad (see p115) Around Town – Greater Prague late in the day, but only if the weather looks promis- ing. Take the metro to the Vyšehrad stop at the Congress Centre, from which you have marvellous views of Prague’s spires. Walk west along Na Bučance and enter the fortiﬁcations through the Tábor Gate (see p121). Once inside the walls, you’ll ﬁnd historic constructions, such as the Romanesque St Martin’s Rotunda (see p121), View of the Žižkov Tower everywhere you turn. Enjoy the park at your leisure but National Memorial on the get to the westernmost ( Vítkov Hill edge of the compound The one-eyed Hussite general Jan atop Vyšehrad’s rocky out- crop in time for a sunset. Žižka defeated invading crusaders in 1420 atop the hill where his Afternoon Two giant equestrian statue now Žižkov and Vinohrady stands in front of the Tomb of (see p115) are also best the Unknown Soldier. Erected seen in the second half of in 1929, the monument serves the day. From Florenc metro, climb to the as a memorial to all those who Monument of National suffered in the Czech struggle for Liberation for a wonderful independence. The Communists view, then compare it to co-opted the building, and for a the one you get from the time it served as President Žižkov TV Tower. Stroll as far into Vinohrady as your Klement Gottwald’s mausoleum feet will permit you, but (see p48). d Žižkov • Map B6 • Open save your strength: you’ll 10am–6pm Tue–Sun • Adm need it for a night of pubbing and clubbing. Žižkov TV Tower ) The Communists Afternoon Three Energetic walkers can see unashamedly cleared away a Stromovka and Troja in a Jewish cemetery on the site in half-day. Take the tram to the 1970s to make way for this Výstavište among the eyesore, reaching 216 m (705 ft) trees of the former game in height. However it didn’t begin park before crossing the Vltava to the Troja transmitting until after the Velvet Château (see p120). From Revolution. Despite a viewing there, you’re within easy platform, the tower is actually walking distance of the too tall to see anything clearly, zoo. Take the bus back to but thrill-seekers may want to the metro at Nádraží Holešovice. try. d Mahlerovy sady • Map B6 • Dis. access • Adm

Following pages Troja Château 117

Left Troja Chateau Centre Bertramka Right Olšany Cemetery Best of the Rest ! Lapidarium has been turned into a small This is where Prague’s sta- museum on his life. d Mozartova tues go when they retire. Among 169, Smíchov • Map A6 • Open 9:30am– the 700-plus items is the original 4pm Tue–Sun • Adm St Wenceslas from Wenceslas Square. d Výstaviště 422, Holešovice ^ Barrandov Studios • Map B5 • Open noon–6pm Tue–Sun Once a Nazi and Communist • Dis. access • Adm propaganda mill, today the studios are thriving as western ﬁlmmakers @ Troja Château discover Prague (see pp46–7). Jean-Baptiste Mathey created d Kříženeckého náměstí 5, Barrandov Count Sternberg’s 17th-century • 267 071111 • Open by appt palace when Classical Italian was the rage. It has a collection of & Olšany Cemetery 19th-century Czech art. d U Plague victims were interred Trojského zámku 1, Troja • Map B5 here when the site was still far Around Town – Greater Prague Around Town • Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; from the city. Notable residents Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Sat–Sun • Adm include Jan Palach, a student who burned himself alive in £ Troja Zoo protest at the 1968 Warsaw- Prague’s zoological gardens Pact invasion. d Vinohradská 153 date back to 1931. The most • Map B6 • Open 8am–5pm; Mar, Apr, popular exhibits are the big cats Oct: 8am–6pm; May–Sep: 8am–7pm and gorillas. d U Trojského zámku 120, Troja • Map B5 • Zoo: Jun–Aug: 9am– * New Jewish Cemetery 7pm; Apr, May, Sep, Oct: 9am–6pm; Nov– Franz Kafka’s memorial is here, Feb: 9am–4pm; Mar: 9am–5pm • Adm as are those of other Prague Jews who died in the Holocaust (see $ Břevnov Monastery p25). d Izraelská 1 • Map B6 • Open St Adalbert founded this 9am–4pm Sun–Thu; Apr–Sep: 9am–5pm Benedictine monastery in 993. You can see remains of the Slapy Reservoir Romanesque church, and the 18th- ( The dam in the Vltava not century church of St Margaret. only helps prevent ﬂooding, it d Markétská 28, Břevnov • Map B5 makes a nice swimming and • 220 406111 • Guided visits (in Czech): boating reserve. d Map B5 Apr–Oct: 10am, 2 & 4pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am & 2pm Sat & Sun • Adm Panelaks ) The majority of Prague’s Bertramka residents still live in these prefab % The house where Mozart and estates after moving here during his wife stayed while the com- the urbanization process of the poser worked on Don Giovanni seventies and eighties. d Map B5

120 Don’t miss the chairlift ride over the whole complex of Troja Zoo – great for kids. Around Town – Greater Prague 121 Metro Vyšehrad Metro d Metro Vyšehrad Metro • Metro Vyšehrad Metro (see p49). Metro Vyšehrad Metro d V Pevnosti • Metro Vyšehrad • Metro V Pevnosti ting New Town to the to the Town ting New d d Nusle Bridge utilitarian simple, This Cubist Houses built the Chochol Josef Grave Smetana’s year’s At the start of each Tábor Gate (Špička) Gate Tábor Charles IV restored Centre Congress palace of ex-Communist This Rotunda of St Martin Rotunda is chapel 11th-century This Metro Vyšehrad Metro K Rotundě K Rotundě * ( d ) d ^ & % musicians attend a ceremony at at a ceremony musicians attend Smetana’s composer Bedřich grave. viaduct spans the Nusle Valley, Valley, viaduct spans the Nusle connec banking and commercial Pankrác district. angular buildings on Rašínovo nábřeží, Libušina and the corner and Neklanova. of Přemyslova International Spring Prague (see p68), Music Festival Vyšehrad’s fortiﬁcations in the in the fortiﬁcations Vyšehrad’s Catholic crusaders century. 14th their rode through this gate on in Táborites the crush to way 1434. hosts international now culture as pop as well conferences concerts the oldest in Prague and most and most the oldest in Prague to be the oldest Christian likely in the country. house of worship in 1878. reconstructed It was

Rotunda of St Martin Rotunda Right K Rotundě K Rotundě d Our Lady of the Rains K Rotundě • Metro Vyšehrad Vyšehrad • Metro K Rotundě Metro Vyšehrad Metro d d Vyšehrad Sights Vyšehrad Casements century, occupy- In the 18th Devil’s Pillar Devil’s storyThe goes that the Slavín Monument Slavín place of notable burial The Church of Church and Paul Sts Peter

Church of Sts Peter and Paul and Paul of Sts Peter Church

K Rotundě • Metro Vyšehrad • Open Vyšehrad • Metro K Rotundě is on the right-hand side of the of the is on the right-hand side chapel. • Metro Vyšehrad • Metro

$ £

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The first church to stand on this first church The II Vratislav by founded site was century,the Neo- but in the 11th seen today Gothic structure very The dates from 1903. Gothic altar a panel valuable with depicting ! Left ing French troops drilled holes in troops drilled holes in ing French to store ammu- rock Vyšehrad nition. devil bet a local priest that he local priest that he bet a devil could carry this pillar from the of St Mary to Rome Church clergyman could the before a sore finish his sermon. Being Satan the column threw loser, to the ground here. Czech cultural figures, students figures, students cultural Czech in remembrance laid flowers 1989, November here on 17 for into town marching before (see p35). Revolution the Velvet • Open Mar–Oct: 9am–noon, 1–5pm • Open Mar–Oct: 9am–noon, 1–5pm Sat & Sun, 9am–noon Fri; Tue–Thu, daily; Jan–Feb: 10am–4pm Nov–Dec: Adm Sat & Sun • 10am–4pm Jan, Feb, Nov, Dec: 8am–5pm; Mar, Apr, Apr, Dec: 8am–5pm; Mar, Nov, Feb, Jan, 8am–7pm Oct: 8am–6pm; May–Sep: Left Hlučná samota Right U Vystřelenýho Oka Cafés and Pubs La Creperie Potrefená husa ! This French-owned café ^ “The Wounded Goose,” as does a solid business of crêpes, Potrefená husa translates as, is waffles and other Gallic delica- the place to go to watch football cies. A nice selection of French over local delicacies. Several and other imported wines, too. domestic and imported beers are d Janovského 4, Holešovice • Map B5 available for a loud and lively clientele. d Resslova 1 • Map E5 U Vystřelenýho Oka @ The name “At the Shot-Out Pastička Eye” is a tribute to the half-blind & “The Mousetrap” is a Hussite general Jan Žižka from perfect blend of old-fashioned whom Žižkov takes its name and beer hall and modish gastro-pub. whose enormous statue looms Visit it for a choice of light and overhead (see p117). d U Božích dark Bernard beer and good, bojovníků 3, Žižkov • Map B6 filling food. d Blanická 25, Vinohrady Around Town – Greater Prague Around Town • Map B6 U Holanů £ Tuck into a plate of pickled Café Faux Pas sausages or herring at Vinohrady’s * Start the day at this café favourite no-nonsense pub. which opens at 8am, serving a Simple but clean, with perfunc- variety of sweet and savoury tory service; they don’t make crêpes and fresh sandwiches. them like this anymore. d Vinohradská 31 • Map H5 d Londýnská 10, Vinohrady • Map B6 Hlučná samota Medúza ( This refined pub takes its $ The junk-shop setting has name from Bohumil Hrabal’s been a favourite of neighbour- novel Too Loud a Solitude (see hood hipsters and students for p45). Neither loud nor solitary, years. It’s an excellent spot to guests return time and again for spend a rainy afternoon sipping the excellent beer and food. tea or Moravian wine. d Belgická d Zahřebská 14, Vinohrady • Map B6 17, Vinohrady • Map B6 Hapu Hospůdka nad Viktorkou ) Working-class Žižkov might % Bořivojova street boasts not be the first place you’d look more pubs per metre than any for excellent daiquiris, martinis other place in the country, and and gin fizzes, but sink into a possibly the world. There’s sofa, order from a choice and nothing elegant about nad Viktor- enjoy. Warning: the room is tiny kou, but it’s the ultimate Prague and fills up fast. d Orlická 8, Žižkov pub. d Bořivojova 79, Žižkov • Map B6 • Map B6

122 Recommend your favourite café on traveldk.com Price Categories For a three-course K under Kč300 meal for one with half KK Kč300–Kč500 a bottle of wine (or KKK Kč500–Kč700 equivalent meal), taxes KKKK Kč700–Kč1000 and extra charges. KKKKK over Kč1000 Around Town – Greater Prague Above Ambiente – The Living Room Restaurants U Houdků Hotel Diana ! This hidden little gem in ^ It’s a trek getting here, but Žižkov serves Czech meals that Hotel Diana wins the prize for are good value for money. In the best game restaurant. The summer you can sit outside. dill-and-potato kulajda soup is a d Bořivojova 110, Žižkov • Map B5 must. Try the boar, too. d Hůrská • 222 711239 • No credit cards • K 12, Prague 14 • 266 610060 • KK

Olympos Restaurant Voyta @ Prague’s best Greek food. & The Hotel Voyta’s elegant in- The large garden, complete with house restaurant is something of table tennis, is ideal for summer a local culinary secret. Have the dining. The mixed salad platter venison Wellington under the is the best value around. ancient chestnut trees and you’ll d Kubelíkova 9, Žižkov • Map B6 • 222 see why many would like it to 722239 • Dis. access • KKK stay that way. d K Novému dvoru 124, Prague 4 • 261 711307 • KKKK Mailsi £ This little Pakistani eatery U Cedru offers better value than the * For an authentic Lebanese Indian restaurants in the centre. dining experience order a spread Close to the No. 9 tram stop, it’s of hummus, tabbouleh and other not as remote as it appears. appetizers with pitta. d Národní d Lipanska 1, Žižkov • Map B6 • 222 Obrany 27, Dejvice • 233 342974 • KKK 717783 • No credit cards • KK Ambiente – The Living Rana ( Room $ When Mehfooz Ahmed sold Steaks, salads, ribs and other Mailsi to his brother, his fans American dishes keep tables full followed him here, where he here. Reservations are a must. serves up the best curries in The menu changes regularly, but town. The vindaloo is for true the chocolate fondue will always spice devotees. d Na Dědince 12, remain. d Mánesova 59, Vinohrady Palmovka • 721 809084 • No credit cards • Map B6 • 222 727851 • KKKKK • Dis. access • K Rudý Baron Hanil ) In this Red Baron-themed % A selection of Japanese and restaurant the menu maintains Korean dishes. If you’re an American focus, with a few desperately seeking sushi, make European touches, such as beef- this your destination. d Slavíkova steak with trufﬂes. d Korunní 23, 24, Žižkov • Map B6 • 222 715867 • No Vinohrady • Map B6 • 222 514485 • Dis. credit cards • Dis. access • KK access • KK

Note: Unless otherwise stated, all restaurants accept credit 123 cards and serve vegetarian meals

STREETSMART

Getting to Prague 126 Getting PRAGUE’S TOP 10 Around Prague 127 Sources of Information 128 Things to Avoid 129 Accommodation Tips 130 Eating and Drinking Tips 131 Shopping Tips 132 Prague on a Budget 133 Prague for the Disabled 134 Studying in Prague 135 Banking and Communications 136 Security and Health 137 Hotel Listings 138–147 126 Streetsmart @ ! Left £ 239 007007•www.csa.cz more than taxis do. more thantaxis but theircarscharge private transportservice, as doesareputable theairport,buses serve Municipalrestaurants. de change, shops and offices,car rental bureaux now, though,including modern facilities here here. There areallthe greeted visitorslanding hammer-and-sickle 1989, acheery, redneon national airport.Until Prague’s onlyinter- centre,Ruzyněthe city is (9 miles)northwest of about 9hours. fromNew 2 hours; York, London areabout Direct flightsfrom Air France and Alitalia. members includeDelta, Sky Team alliance,whose (ČSA) isamemberofthe carrier Czech Airlines national airport. The to Prague’s Ruzyně international airlinesfly flying ifyou have time. are analternative to delays during snow, and ties, fast excepting couchette sleepingfacili- comfortable, with to theCzech are capital town. International trains route passesthrough London–Paris–Venice Orient Express’s European railroutes;the Ruzyně Airport Located 15 km Ruzyně Airport More than40 By Air Prague isonmajor By Train Getting toPrague Sign upfor DK’s emailnewsletter ontraveldk.com d Right ČSA: Hlavní Nádraží central station Airlines: www.csa.cz ^ % d $ & • www.orangeways.cz • www.eurolines.cz and very comfortable. and very are reasonablypriced on abudget. These buses best betfor longjourneys brought induty-free. tobacco) canalsobe their equivalent in and 200cigarettes (or wine, onelitreofspirits duty. Two litresorlessof withoutpaying acountry (about Kč5,000)intothe worth lessthan€175 the EUcanbringgoods it’s all A andBroads. Bratislava; otherwise, to theSlovak of capital way connectsPrague sticker. A majormotor- national identification triangle, anddisplay a card andaredwarning a vehicle registration own car, you mustcarry licence. Ifyou bringyour international driver’s 30 days, you’ll needan Republic for morethan be drivingintheCzech of itsflights. offers discountsonsome prices. Czech Airlines to Prague atreasonable Wizz Air for return tickets with easyJet, Ryanair or London should check www.studentagency.cz Coaches areyour By Coach Visitors fromoutside Customs If you’re goingto By Car Travellers from Discount Deals

d Czech www.wizzair.com ryanair.com • com •Ryanair: www. • easyJet: www.easyjet. beautiful undersnow. iscoldbutWinter making your booking. to March; check when effect fromNovember for hotelsareusuallyin months. Off-season rates during thesummer is teemingwithtourists most Europeancapitals, time tovisit,Prague, like for permanentresidency. after which you canapply annually for eightyears, This visacanberenewed clean criminalrecord. housing aswell asa health insuranceand proof ofemployment, year. For this,you’ll need long-term visa,valid for a you’ll needtoapply for a longer than90days, ( credit card). visit (orhave avalid Kč1,100 perday for your atleast to becarrying officials may requestyou Czech immigration date visarequirements. travel agentfor up-toyour or own country the Czech embassyin wise toconfirmthiswith 90 days, butitisalw Republic for upto visa-free intheCzech Most visitorsmay stay * ) While there’s nobad When to Go Passports Visas and If you choose tostay Long Stays Wizz Air: Wizz ays Streetsmart 127 Cycling has While Prague Guided Tours While some guided Horse and Carriage River Boats River along cruise A river ( ) * line Horse and carriages Square and Town Old short take tourists for rides through the This streets. surrounding a pleasant (and can make romantic) after-dinner Surprisingly, diversion. seem to the horses don’t and mind the crowds auto traffic. & numerous bicycle routes, routes, numerous bicycle their do not have cyclists lanes on the streets own and must share the road can with cars, which The hazardous. prove cobblestones can also be hard going. Some ser- guided cycling vices offer tours of the city – check Informa- with the Prague . tion Service (see p128) more than tours are little a distant a mob following servicesumbrella, many personal insight to offer with the Check the city. Ser- Information Prague posters vice, or look for pub crawls. advertising the Vltava can offer a a can offer Vltava the relaxing and romantic of sightseeing afternoon easy on weary that’s boats depart Tour feet. and Pala- from Čechův can You bridges. ckého boats also rent rowing near Charles Bridge. (see (see and and (see pp8–11) On Foot is the only Walking Driving city centre Prague’s the Old Town Square Town the Old are in pedes- pp14–17) zones. Make trianized com- wear sure you fortable, flat-soled shoes, on the step your watch cobblestones, and look in trams that drive out for the centre of the road in both directions. way to see much of the of the to see much way centre is only The city. about 4 km (2.5 miles) from end to end and of the historic many as Prague sights, such Castle was not designed for the the for not designed was it sees of traffic volume The nowadays. streets and winding are narrow and parking is very must drive, scarce. If you a to the right, wear keep seatbelt, and be aware violations are that traffic on the spot. payable cars are Illegally parked regularly clamped or towed away by viligant wardens. traffic reliable. Phone a central a central reliable. Phone – in advance despatcher to hotel will be able your number – to a you give and be assured of safety price. If the car a fair a lighted have doesn’t “taxi” sign with the word get in. on it, don’t written sure the And make Gene- running. meter’s taxis line that rally, avoid up outside the major tourist sights. ^ % Prague bus Prague Right Getting Around Prague Getting , but , but (see p129)

Prague’s taxis have Prague’s Taxis Buses Buses serve outlying Prague trams make it it trams make Prague Tr a m Metro under- Prague’s Prague metro station metro Prague

most firms are now most firms are now received a lot of bad a lot of bad received press areas – they are banned are banned areas – they from the centre because with As of pollution. trams, riders must by their tickets validate using the punching on the bus. For machines some stops, riders must of their notify the driver by intention to get off near pressing a button the door. easy to see much of the of the easy to see much city you while saving The shoe leather. can be a little schedules to read, however, tricky and re-routings are in tickets frequent. Buy are – they advance the city all over available and from newsagents, from metro stations. ground transit system is is ground transit system and, with a efficient fast, easy to practice, little are three There navigate. A, B and as lines, known C; or more commonly, and red. green, yellow ticket, your Validate from vending available at the stations’ machines at the ticket vestibules, These barriers. passes all Prague for are valid public transport.

$ £

@ ! Left 128 Streetsmart cedok.cz • 800112112 •www. • 221714444 •www.pis.cz Hlavní nádraží&Rytíršká31 náměstí 1,Mainstation Staroměstské Service: Service @ d staff areEnglish-speaking. useful maps,andallthe also supplyyou with on theInternet. They will offices aroundtown and guide available attheir and publishitinamonthly discos toartgalleries, literally have itall,from cultural events. They performances andother kinds ofconcerts,theatre information aboutall central clearinghousefor asa (PIS)serves Service The Prague Information ! Left £ d hand outfor free. language materialto have alotofEnglish- outside thecity. They both inPrague and ofguidedtours,details cultural events and as hotelaccommodation, required by tourists,such offer theusualadvice over andcan thecity office haslocationsall has beenpublishing a fair English-language weekly newspaper down. This this long-standing take pleasureinbringing jaded expatriates, who Čedok:Napříkopě 18 Prague Information The Prague Post The state-run tourist Čedok Information Prague Don’t listentothe The Prague Post Sources ofInformation Share your travelrecommendations ontraveldk.com Right Prague Information Serviceoffice ^ % $ d from mostnewsstands. and events. Itisavailable articles onlocalpolitics are alsointeresting well-nigh essential. There guidesareand restaurant exhibitionentertainment, over 15 years. The cinema, semblance ofnews for at thenearestcinema. find outwhat’s playing useful ifyou want to and galleries.Itisalso exhibitions inmuseums as well ascurrent concerts andclubs, month listalltheatres, pages publishedevery Two hundredorso reader hasgotitall. publication oftheCzech other insightfulfeatures. news inEnglish,plus of localandinternational and evening summaries It broadcastsmorning of state-run Czech Radio. foreign-language service Radio Prague isthe as theBBC(101.1 FM), at thesamefrequency travel andmuch more. hotel accom to stay,weather reports, information aboutwhere These offer avarietyof and bohemiansalike. catering toBohemians to hundredsofweb sites engine willgive you links “Prague” onany search www.praguepost.cz The preferred Kulturní Přehled Conveniently located Radio Prague A quick search for Internet modation, fun reviews. movers andshakers and withsmart interviews interest totouristsfor its professional isalsoof monthly for thebusiness trade andlifestyle current nightlife. want toknow about visitors toPrague who twenty-something Definitely onefor the still entertaining. necessarily credible,it’s years. Although it’s not scene for morethanfive covering thecity’s club publication hasbeen thisfreesale inthecity, culture magazineson and visitorsalike. read by localresidents this freeemailservice, anti-globalization rant in as well astheoccasional tions andcallsfor help, announcements, invita- Curt” distributes gentleman named “Uncle city. at newsstandsacrossthe advice andtips. Available to offer. travel Contains hasfind outwhatthecity andalsotorestaurant finding thebesthotelor perfect resourceto information publication. A stop travel and magazine isyour one * & ) ( An English-language Prague Tribune One ofmany counter- Houser.cz An eccentric Prahabulletinboard This monthlymini- In YourPocket Streetsmart 129 Food Poisoning Food Cases of lethal food Skinheads to 40 years Owing Non-Stop and Non-Stop bars Herna ) ( * Prague Unfortunately, reputable has too few open into bars and cafés The the early hours. “non-stop” words and “herna” are synonymous with shady characters; are filled with the latter and slot machines You’d gambling addicts. an getting off be better to early night, or paying get in to a nightclub. poisoning are very rare, but mild cases are with common; be familiar as the symptoms, such nausea and diarrhoea. Stands on selling food the street are more likely to cause problems than proper restaurants, as the ingredients are to bacteria exposed not very well and often When in doubt, cooked. fish, eggs and avoid products including mayonnaise. of Communist isolation, of Communist isolation, are sadly some Czechs unaccustomed to people who do not look like them. them, or dress like the Neo-Nazi Since 1989, has skinhead movement at a disturbing grown unprovoked rate. Random, violence against dark- skinned individuals may to but it is unlikely occur, in the main you affect tourist areas. Prostitution Despite the best Dog Mess municipal The Re-routed Trams Re-routed In a city as old as Taxis lined up at tourist sight lined up at tourist Taxis intentions of the law, the the intentions of the law, still oldest profession zone” “grey in a thrives Never of the city. assume that prostitution saints is legal. Even prostitutes should avoid are they of both sexes: to supple- known often ment their incomes by pockets. picking authorities gave up many up many authorities gave ago tryingyears to count canine resi- many how has. It has dents Prague itself also largely absolved of trying to clean up after dog-owners them. Local are also notoriously care- step. your less, so watch Prague, the infrastructure the infrastructure Prague, This needs constant repair. means tearing up streets and, inevitably, re-routing Prague tram. The your contains a weekly Post list of route and schedule here so check changes, avoid To off. setting before confusion, timetables for re-routed trams are yellow instead of white. (see Museum (see Jewish a 50 per cent p99), offer discount to Czechs. ticket Simply letting you’re sellers know price of the lower aware helps, but it is still no real guarantee that you for be penalized won’t being a foreigner. & ^ % Right , and , and Things to Avoid Things

Two-Tiered Two-Tiered Pricing Unscrupulous Unscrupulous Drivers Taxi Tourists are an easy are an easy Tourists Pickpockets Midday on on Midday Bridge Charles Crowds on Charles Bridge Bridge on Charles Crowds

target for petty thievery. thievery. target petty for place where any Avoid be pressed up you’ll against strangers. on trams and Pickpockets metro cars have numerous routines to of their travellers relieve of a copy Have valuables. passport and avoid your cash. carrying too much

While it violates the law While it violates the law tourists more, to charge reputablemany establishments, including the $

The best way to avoid to avoid best way The a ride, as being taken for is to phone a it were, (see central despatcher to send a car to p127) using cars Avoid you. “transport” marked those without pricing posted on information agree the door and never a price – “negotiate” to have taxis should always a meter running. £

@ ! being enjoy Unless you cheek-to-jowl packed travellers, with fellow visit this popular spot sometime (see pp18–19) The other than midday. mobs start arriving especially around 10am, Early during summer. the risers can have bridge more or less to at sunrise. themselves Left 130 Streetsmart £ @ ! Left centre connections tothe example, allhave good and Holešovice, for of Žižkov, Karlín,Smíchov neighbourhoods bills. The amount onyour hotel you aconsiderable centrecansave the city dation optionsoutside at www.accomgroup.com. can check theiravailability numerous hotels;you last-minute pricesfor dation company offers Jun–Aug.accommo- An Pricesbooking. arelower particular event before been hiked upfor a whether priceshave Year andEaster;check high pricesaroundNew with anotherpocket of Apr–May andSep–Oct, season runs roughly from mostnewsagents. Annonce isavailable long-term agreements. both onshort-and apartments for rent, affordable roomsand to translate,you’ll find you canfindsomeone ads areinCzech, butif Annonce. Almost allthe advertisement publication the dailyclassified accommodation, check money onlong-term tourist andwant tosave longer thantheaverage ber of good quality hotels. ber ofgoodquality and anincreasingnum- Prague pension Exploring accommo- Bargain Districts The peaktourist Off-season Prices If you’re stayinga bit Annonce (see pp114–17) Accommodation Tips For hotelsin Prague Right The GlobeBookstore

^ % $ & can bringpets;ifyou fear book, check whether you sufferers.you When bad news for allergy for animal-owners and –goodnewsfriendly city before you book. toyou,important enquire towels. Ifsuch itemsare example, orplushbath en suitebathrooms,for Not allhotelroomshave prepared for surprises. be amenities; otherwise, and the services recognize of thequality as achain hotel),you’ll name ofyour hotel(such precious holiday time. clamped canruin space; beingtowed or you’re parked inalegal your carandmake sure Never leave valuables in safest placestopark. management aboutthe guests. Ifso,askthe parking spacesfor not have reserved oftherooms. quality guarantee astothe you, you have no they’re notoutto rob bus depot.Even if orairport, trainstation dation fromtoutsatthe not acceptaccommo- travel agentorhotel.Do go directlytoalocal book aroominadvance, If you recognize the Hotel Standards Smaller hotelsmay Parking If you’ve failed to Things to Avoid Prague pet- isavery Pets See pp138–147 streetside scams. ofhotels canbetargets aware thateven thebest inthehotelsafe.lery Be as passportsandjewel- hotels, keep itemssuch home. Inthebetter wouldn’t want toloseat leave anything you valuables –ifpossible, comes totravelling with common sensewhenit tourists shoulduse goes withoutsaying that destination, italmost (see p106). The GlobeBookstore check bulletin boardsat to goitonyour own, Ifyou wantpaperwork. you withthenecessary find you ahome andhelp month’s rent,they can usually thevalue ofone Formonth rentals. afee, long-term andmonth-to- companies offer sublets, ( * ) (see p128). find ashort-termrental agencies canhelpyou numerous otherlocal agency Čedokand travel state Service, Prague Information and rentasmallflat. The to skipthehotelsentirely or longer, you may want If you’re stayinga week kennel recently. been doublingupasa that y the fur, askfor assurances Apartment Rentals Short-term Whatever the Security Many realestate Finding aFlat our roomhasn’t Streetsmart 131 James James d • Caffrey’s: K • Caffrey’s: Restaurant Restaurant Classes Brunch on travelling If you’re Breakfast hotel will Your Joyce: Liliová 10; Map K5; 10; Liliová Joyce: 224 248793; Staroměstské náměstí 10; Map M3; 224 828031; K ) State-licensed eating establishments into fall one of three classes, with first class being the finest and three the plainest. The restaurant’s class should be posted These the front door. by classifications are no indications of quality. A third-class pub may better very offer well than a first-class food restaurant at times. ( * a budget but still want a a a budget but still want taste of the good life, the can see how you other half eat without breaking the bank by at one of doing brunch fine-dining the city’s establishments. Brunch complete with buffets, and jazz, champagne abound and seldom cost more than Kč600. probably include a probably include a Continental breakfast with the price of your While Irish fry-ups room. at bars can be found Joyce the James as such American and Caffrey’s, are breakfasts diner-style Cafés largely unheard of. increasingly serve – ham and hemenex eggs – but seldom open 9am. before See p79 • Little K• Little Country Life: “Je tu volno?” tu “Je d serves (see p111) Late-Night Eating Late-Night willing Unless you’re Smoking restaurants Prague Making Reservations to hazard the sausage to hazard the sausage Wenceslas stands on Square, finding a bite late at night will prove The challenging. club Radost until the early food hotels have hours. Better late-night room service. are seldom non-smoking. A local ordinance bans time, smoking at lunch but it is seldom, if ever, a smoke- For enforced. free meal, try the vegetarian restaurants Country and Little Life Buddha. Melantrichova 15; Map L4; 15; Melantrichova KK • Dhaba 224 213366; Map M3; 19; Týnská Beas: 608 035727; Buddha: Úvoz 46; Map A3; 46; Map Buddha: Úvoz KK 220 513894; simply round up the bill. up the bill. simply round beer and schnitzel If your example, cost Kč82, for than Kč90. Rather pay the tip on the leaving how table, waiter tell your to give. want you much & ^ Reserving a table is idea and can a bad never a great deal of you save hungry come wandering dinner time. In many common restaurants, it’s lone diners to join for other tables. If you’re to know alone and want if a seat is free, point at it and ask %

Prague café Prague Right Lehká Lehká KK d (jako předkrm) (jako For a guide to restaurant prices For Eating and Drinking Tips and Drinking Eating . You and zaplatím. You . Your steak à la carte. Your

Tipping While tipping in Verify the restaurant Verify Paying Ordering the for Except Vegetarian Tips Vegetarian Meat- and dairy-free Vegetarian snack Vegetarian zvlášt (separately).

will be well-done unless unless will be well-done plead otherwise.you before your main course. main course. your before will probably also You side to order your have dish Prague is approaching the the is approaching Prague international standard of per cent, it is still 15 common in pubs to takes credit cards before takes credit cards before Restaurants order. you seldom accept travellers’ waiter your Tell cheques. with one to pay like you’d word: party pay your may dohromady (all together) or grander eateries, many grander eateries, many restaurantsPrague have to grasp multiple- yet course service. Empha- your want that you size appetizer dining is no longer the dining is no longer the a few problem it was new ago. Many years vegetar- restaurants offer ians a wide variety of tasty meatless meals, while older establishments are increasingly to vegetarians’ sensitive said, never That needs. vegetables assume your come smothered won’t with cheese.

$ £

@ ! Left Hlava: Boršov 2 • Map K5 Boršov Hlava: • 222 220665 • 132 Streetsmart £ @ ! Left $ purchases may costextra. stores. Bags for your shoppers intheoften tiny regulate thenumberof out one–andithelps you’re ashoplifter with- shopkeepers willassume common courtesy– one asyou goin.It’s front ofthestore,take carts orbaskets atthe airport several shopsatRuzyně collect theirrefundat In Prague, visitorscan customs within30days. and have at itstamped Complete thecheque envelope atthestore. ping cheque andtax-free Ask for atax-free shop- onpurchases.added tax to arefundofthevalue- the shop’s frontdoor. ment willbeindicatedon accepted by anestablish- selling necessities.Cards credit cardsthanthose are morelikely toaccept Shops sellingsouvenirs for itwithacreditcard. it willbethatyou canpay the item,morelikely surprised iftheclerk the lastheller. Don’t be exact change, down to appreciate itifyou have matics andalw antipathy towards mathe- demonstrate adisturbing Antiques shop Antiques If thereareshopping Baskets andBags Tourists areentitled VAT Refunds The moreexpensive Credit Cards Prague tellers Small Change (see p126). Shopping Tips Visa, MasterCard and American Express. Establishments thatacceptcredit cardsmostcommonly accept ays Right Second-handbookshop ^ % & larger thanKč1,000. to acceptbanknotes shops may even refuse out ofyour hand.Smaller ﬁshes thecorrect coins degree. A specialize toanamusing in Prague for shopsto there isstillthetendency butone-stop shopping, have now introduced stores such as Tesco great dinner. whole birdhomefor a dation, you cantakea self-catering accommo- there, or, ifyou arein quarter orhalfbirdtoeat around thecity. Ordera chicken) aredotted grilované kuře(roast day. Shopsselling togooffstarts after a any preserva tives, soit bread doesnotcontain But bewarned –this go for lessthanKč20. fresh sourdoughbread hodinářství. an alarmclock isata the onlyplaceyou’ll ﬁnd napkins,while sanitary paper, fromnotepadsto sells everythingmadeof Havelská. centre,try In thecity markets aroundPrague. at various outdoor and vegetablesarefound to produce. The best fruit whenitcomesquantity often for tradeinquality Large department Specialist Shops Whole loaves of Bargain Food Large supermarkets Fresh Vegetables papírnictví

classics gofor asong. where English-language as Kanzelsberger, Czech booksellerssuch the latesttitles.Ortry p106), butdon’t expect Globe bookstore(see Anagram, BigBen or The journey, headto the next legofyour some readingmaterialfor a replica. these days islikely tobe that anything you ﬁnd paraphernalia, bewarned looking for Soviet ask thedealer. Ifyou’re from theCzech Republic; permit toexport antiques may needaspecial selection andprices. You you aneven better further aﬁeldwilloffer centre.Goingin thecity junk merchants abound unuseable. dubious, ifnotdownright islikelyquality tobe and software, sothe sell piratedCDs,videos aware thatmany bazaars the realthing. Also be buy isnot onstreetstalls sportswear that you can orUmbro underwear trainers, CalvinKlein good thatthe Adidas cities, theoddsarevery ( * ) d N5 Václavské náměstí4;Map 5; MapM3•Kanzelsberger: • BigBen: MaláŠtupartská Anagram: Týn 4,MapM3 If you’re lookingfor Books Antiques dealersand Antiques As withmostmajor Goods Bootleg Streetsmart 133

(see p115) (see pp66–7). Museums to Admission Clubbing While admission to Free Prague Tours Prague Free to is a great way This ) ( * National Gallery art at various exhibits is around town venues but not as typically low, as the entrance to low the National Museum history (see p36). Natural will be delighted buffs as at the here as well The Municipal Museum. at the exhibitions many National Technical Museum outside the centre are far more interesting than the functional name might initially suggest. Karlovy Lázně, Radost FX Karlovy Lázně, Radost will cost you and Roxy KČ200 or more at week- these big ends, even free nights clubs have Smaller during the week. clubs further afield, such Akropolis, Music as Palác Club Červ and Industry 55, and more are cheaper less intimate but a little polished explore Prague with a with a Prague explore Tours Prague guide. Free licenced English- by is run speaking guides who are and also history buffs Tipping people orientated. the guide at the end, or choose you whenever of a way is to leave, and appreciation showing money. will still save you Meetings are daily in the Square at 11am Town Old and 2pm. . (see p111) Travel in the Travel Republic Czech Accommodation Hostels usually have Food less expensive Even GTS International: small double and even small double and even single rooms that offer (see greater privacy can also Travellers . p144) entire find rooms or even the week rent by flats for the . Check (see p146) The bulletin boards at (see Globe Bookstore and Radost p106) nightclub than pub fare is the food food is the than pub fare served at cafeteria-style lunch many the city’s counters and buffets. Czech your Grab a tray, dictionary and join the is usually queue. Food Lunch, weight. sold by should be less with beer, than Kč150. not uncommon. Or Or not uncommon. out to Žižkov journey ) or other (see p116 neigh- working-class glasses bourhoods for as Kč12. as cheap • www.gtsint.cz Zikova 11 • 224 325235 11 Zikova d & and teachers Students discounts on qualify for as bus and train tickets, offered as airfares well GTS International. by first- trains have Czech and second-class cabins, being the the latter to can travel You cheaper. most destinations within and Republic the Czech less than Kč700. for back ^ % Palác Akropolis nightclub Akropolis Palác Right Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com email newsletter Sign up for DK’s Prague on a Budget Prague

Beer seldom any There’s Corporate and state Concerts Opera opera Prague City Public Transport Museum tickets Museum tickets

need to pay more than more than need to pay a half-litre of Kč30 for within Even beer. draft the centre, Kč20 beer is sponsorship keeps ticket ticket sponsorship keeps prices – and musicians’ the for salaries – low major orchestras. city’s Orches- Radio Czech The Symphony tra, Prague and other Orchestra ensembles regularly give masterful performances, are to which the tickets seldom more than a few hundred crowns. continues to defy the continues to defy the of supply and laws the best demand. Even by seats are cheap standards, western but possible to buy it’s standing-room only and then slip into tickets a seat in the largely empty hall when the begins. overture

$ £

@ ! 24-hour, can buy You passes and 7-day 3-day use on unlimited for valid metro, trams Prague’s the Validate and buses. the once and enjoy ticket to forget ride, but don’t an sign the back: is not unsigned ticket and ticket valid inspectors that appear levy can unexpectedly a fine up to Kč950. Left 134 Streetsmart 827210 •www.pov.cz. diktská 6•MapN2224 Wheelchair Users:Bene- Wheelchair-Users £ Wheelchair Users. Association of Pick itupatthePrague shops alongtheroute. public bathroomsand monuments, restaurants, lists barrier-free galleries, users. The guidealso tive texts, for wheelchair- maps andbriefinforma- routes, witheasy-to-read outlines four sightseeing This freebrochure @ ! Left d staff speak English. Republiky. Someoftheir office nearNáměstí issuesattheirdisability about various other brochure andgetadvice You canpick upthe rights ofthedisabled. group lobbiesfor the the above brochure, this In additiontopublishing streets canbehard-going. access. The city’s cobbled floors toenableeasy with speciallylowered many tramsandbuses inacces centre remainlargely inthe older stations beacons for theblind,but have lifts andauditory Newer metrostations needs ofthedisabled. about thetransportation recently beguntothink Prague Organizationof NaměstíRepubliky, starting pointfor guidedbustours Prague’ Barrier-Free Prague hasonly Public Transport Organization of Prague sible. There are sible. There Prague fortheDisabled ^ % $ serve outlyingareas. serve but again,they mainly buses have low platforms, tourists. Many other they’re notmuch useto a few centrallocations, housing developments to passengers fromfar-flung metro ortram.Carrying areas notreachable by users andconnectvast dedicated towheelchair- Estates TheatreEstates James p72), theChurch ofSt Municipal House Garden (see p40),Franciscan Garden p64), Wallenstein National Theatre Hall pp8–11), theOld Town the OldRoyal Palace Cathedral problem: St Vitus’s them issometimesa users, althoughgetting to accessible towheelchair- following sightsarepartly world’s capitals. The disabled-friendly ofthe Prague isn’t themost and NáměstíRepubliky. Square buses onOld Town the trip.Look for the languages plays during narration inseveral town. Pre-recorded topped bustouraround byanopen- city taking get anoverview ofthe have troublewalking can Two busroutesare Bus Routes As may now beclear, Accessible Sights Those visitorswho Bus Tours (see pp16–17), the (see p74) andthe (see pp14–17) (see p105), the (see pp12–13), (see p65). (see (see (see

Right Wallenstein Garden Wallenstein the sightedtoo. mess isaproblemfor trained –avoiding dog population areaswell- Prague’s thrivingdog not allmembersof transport. Be aware that well asonpublic historic monumentsas official buildingsand permitted inbanks, the visuallyimpairedare free rooms(seep139). no fewer than15 barrier- Hilton, wherethereare small. Hatsoff tothe barrier-free roomsis although thenumberof wheelchair-users, hotels areaccessibleto lers arelistedbelow. tion for disabled travel- good sourceofinforma- thatareain thecity to stay. list ofaccessibleplaces also beabletosupplya of Wheelchair-Userswill The Prague Association ( * discounted entry. that mostsightsoffer will behappy tolearn Hearing impairedvisitors & d ) www.sons.cz 21; MapG5;221462462; Visually Impaired:Krakovská zation oftheBlindand 816829 •UnitedOrgani- Karlínské Námeští12; 224 Czech UnionoftheDeaf: Canine assistants toCanine assistants Helper Dogs Most ofthenewer Hotels Tickets Discounted Other organizations Other Resources Streetsmart 135 Autoškola Autoškola Map C3 d • Prague Centre Prague Autoškola Ing. Autoškola • d Driving Lessons Driving residents Long-term International International TEFL Certificate English-Language Schools Grammar International School of International School www.itc-training.com Riverside School: School: Riverside 257 534013 257 534013 www.prague-center.cz www.riversideschool.cz Dejvice: www.autoskola Dejvice: www.autoskola dejvice.cz Ondřej Horázny: www. www. Ondřej Horázny: horazny.cz Prague: www.isp.cz www.isp.cz Prague: d • ) • • * firm has private This been training its students six for world the all over English to to teach years last Courses foreigners. assists ITC weeks. four graduates in job place- ment worldwide. d ( Expat parents can enroll at the their children of International School School Riverside Prague, and other grammar English- offering schools for language instruction aged 3–19. children for Further Education: Further for Karmelitská 18 will need to apply for a a will need to apply for driving licence. Czech Some driving schools Ing. Autoškola as such and Ondšej Horázny Dejvice offer Autoškola and testing in instruction English. See the Prague a more for Pages Yellow complete list. groups) and are offered offered groups) and are frequently throughout the year. 224 • 224 • Map D3 • Univerzita New York York New Map L4 • d d www.nyu.cz www.nyu.cz www.ujop.cuni.cz www.ujop.cuni.cz • • Map B6 • Prague Centre for for Centre Prague Education Further New York New York University Charles Charles University Anglo-American College: 257 530202 www.aauni.edu University in Prague: Malé University in Prague: náměstí 2 diplomacy, law, diplomacy, law, humanities and social are All courses sciences. taught in English. Lázeňská 4 Lázeňská 918775 918775 & the Established in 1995, Centre organizes Prague courses on a wide range as of subjects such technology, information history, and Czech design. Six-week fashion courses cost Kč4,000 (with discounts for and teachers students, ^ University York New study-abroad offers students programmes for enrolled at its US campuses and at universities affiliated Students elsewhere. enrolled in Czech audit may universities classes. % in oldest university The Central Europe offers some courses in English and degree in its many non-degree programmes. Short-term courses are the summer taught over months. d • • 226658 Karlova v Praze: Albertov Albertov v Praze: Karlova 7/32 Institut Institut nabřeži d SF

d www.ifp.cz Map F5 221 962111 221 962111 • • • Goethe-Institut Goethe-Institut Map K3 d Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com • Studying in Prague Studying

Map E5 Anglo-American Anglo-American University French Institute French have English may Goethe Institute Accomplished Czech Lessons Czech Large language Charles University Right Charles Goethe Institute •

222 232995 www.goethe.de/ms/pra 221 619297 221 619297 replaced it as the lingua replaced it as the lingua franca, so to speak, but is still useful for French Four-month travellers. beginners courses for You cost around Kč4,000. art, French can also study history, – even literature writing.creative German speakers can can German speakers Kafka in the study original language; the up their rest can brush language skills or start A ﬁve- from scratch. month course in conver- sational German costs Kč4,000. schools like SF Servis like schools for lessons Czech offer as does foreigners, Charles University. Absolute beginners can four- take an intensive, less course for week than Kč5,000. This liberal arts college liberal arts college This internationally offers accredited degrees in business administration, international relations, • $ • £ @ • ! Left Prag: MasaryPrag: kovo 32 Francais de Prague: de Prague: Francais Štepánská 35 Servis: Náměstí Jana 2 Palacha 136 Streetsmart Příkopé 20•MapP4 £ d @ ! Left for currency exchange. lower fees they charge advantage ofthetypically if you want totake to goaPrague bankis other reasonyou’ll need theonlybanka building, such asex-Živnostenská their stunning interiors, worth visitingjustfor Although somebanksare from 8amto5or6pm. as 50hellers. Kč20 andKč50,aswell Kč1, Kč2,Kč5,Kč10, following denominations: Coins comeinthe increasingly rareKč20. Kč100, Kč50andthe Kč1,000, Kč500,Kč200, of Kč5,000,Kč2,000, come indenominations 100 hellers.Crown notes (Kč), which ismadeupof currency isthecrown country itself.country value outsideofthe lowcurrency hasavery leave, astheCzech currency before you crowns back toyour own idea toconvert your accept coins.It’s agood fewNote thatvery will point shoppingaround. exchange sothere’s little little fromexchange to The conversion ratesvary de change willtake acut. commission” percent advertise “0

Unicredit bank:Na Bureau deChange sign Most banksareopen Banks The Czech Republic’s Currency Although they may Exchange Banking andCommunications ,’ allbureaux Centre ^ across thecity. their various offices and sellstheircheques at American Expresscashes accepted, although hand, areseldom cheques, onthe other way in. Travellers’ your checkon always cater totourists,but thatand restaurants widely acceptedatshops Major creditcardsare % $ & Cheques ATMs after dark. when makinguseof worldwide, bevigilant As withallcities systems such asCirrus. cards andglobalbanking recognize majorcredit machines centre. The throughout thecity widely available p126). Ruzyně airport (see mobile phoneatPrague’s phones. You canrenta Czechs have mobile than 70percentof and newsagents. More available atpostoffices cards either coinsorphone order, payphones accept seas. Italsooffers a postcard orletter over- you needtomaila a visit,whetherornot is lovely insideandworth Post Office sign Bankomats are ATMs When notoutof Telephones and T Credit Cards The mainpost office Post (telefonní, karty) ravellers’ Right Prague bank The Globe. visitors dotheirsurfingat 15 minutes.Many with aminimumtimeof upwards ofKč60anhour, Expect tobecharged almost everycorner. an Internetcafé on nowadays onecanfind • 221131111 produced In additiontothelocally ( * d Czech subtitles. films inEnglishwith often broadcastsclassic Public Czech Television fare andMTV. ofSky ups, expect the usual hotel hassatellitehook- Czech andSlovak. Ifyour well asanabundance of the BBCat101.1 FM,as language broadcastson You’ll findsomeEnglish- ) Tribune. International Herald Street Journal andthe The Guardian, newspapers such as well asinternational weeklies like Timeas US newsstands carry (see p128), downtown and • 224934203 Pštrossova 6•Map E5 Main Post Office: overseas telephonecalls. is agoodway ofmaking large phoneroom,which anda telegram service

Jindřišská 14 •MapP6 Magazines Newspapers and As inmostcities, Internet Radio Television and The Prague Post Prague Tribune d

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Streetsmart 137 Smoking Second-hand smoke Pickpockets target Pickpockets and Food Safety Water charges should you fall fall should you charges that Also be aware ill. be medication may your a different by known Your name brand abroad. also recom- doctor may mend an inoculation against hepatitis before this trip, although your strictly necessary. isn’t ( diet Czech fat-heavy The cause indigestion, may so bring along your stomach-settler. favourite to is safe water Tap local drink, but even bottled residents prefer most dan- The water. gerous ﬂuid in a city full of bars is alcohol; watch beer intake – Czech your is stronger than a lot of other varieties. ) * is a fact of life in Prague. in Prague. of life is a fact restaurants Smoke-free are rare. If and cafés your aggravate cigarettes be health or enjoyment, sure to visit in summer, can spend when you more time outside and breathe in fresher air. tourists in crowded tourists in crowded can spaces where they Distribute jostle you. among valuables your pockets inside several carry more and never need. cash than you photocopies of Leave passport in your your hotel room. American

d Precautions Consult a physician Pharmacies such even For Dentists dental care Czech Palackého 5; Map F4; 5; Palackého

before your trip and trip and your before your whether check health insurance covers abroad. If it doesn’t you be sure to take out extra high insurance to avoid common medicines as aspirin or cold remedies, need to visit a you’ll lékárna. On weekends can use pharmacies you in shopping centres and galleries throughout There Prague. are numerous pharmacies around the city. scattered is considered among is considered among the best in Europe. For dental emergencies, call routine For 22494 6981. care, try the English- speaking dentists at the Asso- American Dental ciates or Millennium Dental Care. kova224 946982 • Štefáni • Belgická 6; 257 320918 37; Map H6; 222 513396 Dental Associates: V Celnicí Dental Associates: • Millennium 4; 221 181121 10; V Celnicí Dental Care: 221 033405; [email protected] and where. In the street, the street, and where. In not uncommon to see it’s bin, a smouldering waste where someone has a lit carelessly thrown worry – Don’t cigarette. someone will be along in a minute with a bucket to put it out. of water & d ^ % Sign up for DK’s email newsletter on traveldk.com email newsletter Sign up for DK’s Security and Health Security

Fire need to report If you Prague’s doctors in- Prague’s Hospitals Police municipal Prague’s Emergency Emergency Numbers Pharmacy sign sign Right Pharmacy ambulance Centre Police Prague Canadian Medical Centre:

a ﬁre, dial 150 and tell the and tell the a ﬁre, dial 150 operator what is burning creasingly speak English creasingly speak English and are accustomed to standards western of clinics care. Some private that cater to foreigners, as the Canadian such Medical Centre, have doctors on call 24 hours need Should you a day. in-patient care, go to the clinic at Na foreigners’ Homolce Hospital.

police are generally police are generally helpful to (law-abiding) visitors, although they continue to be dogged with accusations of bribe-taking. Don’t confuse members of securityprivate services Castle guards and Prague state for or municipal police ofﬁcers. $

d £

@ ! call an ambulance, To police, 158. for dial 155; of a ﬁre, call In the event and slowly Speak 150. calmly and the operator will understand For you. an English-speaking dial emergency operator, also wish may You 112. to carry embassy’s your phone number with you. Left Veleslavínská 1; 235 360133 1; 235 360133 Veleslavínská • Na Homolce Hospital: 2; 257 272146 Roentgenova 138 Streetsmart and modernluxuries. Baroque furnishings blissful matrimony of well. The hotelisa healing powers ofits forcentury thereputed popular inthe16th Charles Hotelwas theKing monastery, Formerly aBene £ @ d ! Left $ d advance. furniture. Book well in baths andRichelieu All roomshave whirlpool offering unparalledviews. Ledeburg Gardens, Golden Well” adjoinsthe Brahe, thehotel “at the astronomer Tychode and uniquelyfurnished. rooms aresumptuously the owner’s father. The ofcaricatures bygallery andgourmet restaurant Castle, celebratedfor its the shadow ofPrague quiet, modernhotelin Bridge. The roomsare Strana endofCharles Tower” guardstheMalá www.goldenwell.cz • • www.zlatastudna.cz; 4 •MapC2257011213 conditioning • hotels.cz •Noair 533594 •www.romantic hoffmeister.cz •KKK • 251017111 •www.

Úvoz 4•MapB2 •257 Pod Bruskou 7•MapD1 Hotel Hoffmeister RightHotel Paříž Karla Hotel Ukrále Once owned by U Zlaté studně The Hoffmeister isa Hotel Hoffmeister The “Hotel Underthe Hotel Pod věží Luxury Hotels cards, andhave en-suite bathrooms andair conditioning Note: Unlessotherwise stated,all hotelsacceptcredit d

U Zlatéstudně KKK dictine

KKKK ﬂoor. views arefromtheeighth bished in2002. The best Its 78roomswere refur- Prague’s liveliest clubs. to oneofJazz-Age the Bohemia was home decadence: builtin1920, meets OldEuropean Old Europeandecorum ^ % rushing over theweir. can hearthe Vlt to theriver thatguests Bridge” iscloseenough the “House atCharles address NaKampě15, Also known by its & • • www.hotelpodvezi.cz • MapD3257532041 on call. and masseusesare barbers, manicurists tions. Hair-stylists, comfortable reproduc- period furniture and graciously outﬁtted with • Dis.access • www.fourseasons.com • MapK3221427000 • Dis.access • www.austria-hotels.at • MapP3234608111 around. best. Top-notch,all Allegro isoneofPrague’s restaurant them. The terrace shouldremind stroll ontheriverside where they are. A quick guestsmay forgetluxury, Four Seasonstrademark KKK Bohemia Grand Hotel Swaddled inthe Four Seasons Charles Bridge Archibald atthe d

d d Králodvorská 4

Mostecká 2 Veleslavínova 2a

KKKKK KKKKK ava in a country style. in acountry are warmly furnished The roomsandsuites view. 360-degreespectacular Tower Suitehasa in allrooms. The Royal floors andking-size beds like heatedbathroom modern conveniences while incorporating all itsoriginalcharm Nouveau treasureretains to Prague Castle. have views over thecity several ofits99rooms the former chapel and monastery. Itsspaisin in arestoredDominican hard toleave your room. romantic thatitmay be are spectacular. Itisso the waterfront, the views and fixtures. Located on medieval decor, fittings painted ceilingsand over thetop,with Palace areluxuriously com/prague • • www.mandarinoriental. • 233088888 mamaison.com • 77477477 (UK)•www. K6 •234705111; 00800 ( d * d d ) • www.hotel 1 •MapP3222195666 archibald.cz • • 234652818 •www. •

KKKKK NaKampě15 •MapD3

Nebovidská 1•MapC3 Karoliny Svĕtlé 34•Map Built in1904, this Art Paříž Hotel The hotelislocated Mandarin Oriental Rooms atthePachtuv Pachtův Palace d

U Obecníhodomu pariz.cz

KKK KKKKK KKKK Streetsmart 139 K Mrkvičkova 2,

palace studios palace studios under Kč1,500 under d K KKKKK KK Kč1,500–Kč3,000 KKK Kč3,000–Kč4,500 KKKK Kč4,500–Kč6,000 Kč6,000 KKKKK over

Fortuna West Fortuna outside well Located Radisson BLU Alcron Kempinski Once the Baroque Štěpánská 40 • Map F5 Hybernská 12 • Map G3 Hybernská 12

KKKK • www.cpihotels.cz • No air • www.cpihotels.cz conditioning • Prague 5 • 296 744201 5 • 296 744201 Prague d ) d ( Alcron the In the 1930s, to answer Prague’s was Ritz. The York’s New hotel group Radisson the has carefully revived Art Nouveau hotel’s dandiness, besmirched of secret 40 years by police surveillance. are two excellent There restaurants on site. * • 226 226111 • www. • 226 226111 • Dis. kempinski.com access • • 222 820000 • www. radissonblu.com/hotel- prague • Dis. access • the centre, the Comfort the centre, the Comfort airport is nearer Ruzyně than down- (see p126) are 159 There town. basic but clean rooms, and TV, all with satellite a useful on-site there’s car park and conference facilities. Palace U Věžníků, this this Věžníků, U Palace an appealing hotel offers blend of the historical and contemporary rooms are The throughout. large and comfortable. Suites and are also available. Amenities include a spa and centre, and wellness rooms. conference Price Categories Price For a standard, a standard, For per double room night (with breakfast if included), taxes charges. and extra Pobřežní 1 Pobřežní KKKK

nádraží and nádraží and d Hybernská 6

d KKKK V Celnici 7 • Map ing, with pleasant

d Hilton Prague Prague Hilton Old Town Hilton premiere Prague’s Prague Marriott Prague Bright and V Celnici 8 • Map G2

KKK KKKK convention hotel boasts hotel boasts convention nearly 800 rooms and suites, an extensive ﬁtness centre, a casino and the largest meeting aside from the facilities Congress Centre in go down Rates Vyšehrad. in summer. welcom welcom as compli- such touches mentary newspapers, signs in braille and rooms (great for with lofts All rooms have families). internet access and 24-hour room service. • Map P4 • 224 192111 • Map P4 • 224 192111 • www.hotel-meteor.cz • G2 • 222 842364 • www. hiltonpragueoldtown.com • Dis. access • • Map H1 • 224 842458 • Dis. • www.hilton.com access • whirlpool baths. For a a For whirlpool baths. longer stay, book room No. 510. & between Situated Masarykovo the hotel Town, the Old a ﬁtness centre offers with pool, three restaurants and 305 rooms; all rooms have TV and voice satellite mail. ^ d % • 222 888888 • www. • Dis. access marriott.com • Kateřinská

d Share your travel recommendations on traveldk.com Chain Hotels Chain

Hotel Best Western Western Best Hotel Plaza Meteor The new hotel hotel new The Holiday Inn Holiday With underground Novotel Hotel Ibis Hotel A no-nonsense hotel Na Pankráci 15 • Map B6 • Map 15 Na Pankráci Šaldova 54, Prague 8 54, Prague Šaldova

KKK KK KK novotel.com • Dis. access novotel.com • adjoining the Congress adjoining the Congress Vyšehrad Centre near as Best chosen was of 2001. Hotel Project will appreciate Drivers the large garage and adjoining petrol station. a castle view. for Ask parking, a small gym and swimming pool, piano bar and Continental restaurant, the Novotel a budget version offers Children under of luxury. stay free. 16 with modern amenities with modern amenities to and a devotion The customer service. rooms are small, clean A good and comfortable. who travellers for choice to spend a lot want don’t around. of time sitting

38 • 221 104999 • www. 38 • 221 104999

$ who travellers Medieval city found gates closed at a the night stayed for earlier hotel on this much ﬁtness centre The spot. on the premises has two d

£ @

d ! Holiday Inn Holiday Above • 296 895000 • www. Dis. access • holidayinn.cz • • 222 332800 • www. hotelibis.cz • Dis. access • 140 Streetsmart • • www.casa-marcello.cz 783 •MapN1222311230 £ @ ! Left d • • www.ichotelsgroup.com • MapE1296631111 the Vltava. than thoseoverlooking views arelessexpensive budget? Rooms withcity pool andaspa.On machines, aswimming centre hasexercise pered. The largeﬁtness all visitorswillfeel pam- its Club-Level pulls outallthestopsfor the premises. excellent on restaurant small ﬁtnesscluband Escher print. There isa you’ll thinkyou’re inan many andhallways, stairs wandering thehotel’s 13th-century character; rooms embracetheir elegantly appointed book well inadvance. 12 roomsavailable, so situated. There areonly stay, butfew aswell more gracefulplacesto site. heritage There are UNESCO world cultural building islistedasa churches, theBlack Fox Nicholas and Týn unobstructed views ofSt birthplace, with from Franz Kafka’s cernaliska.cz • • 224322250www. KKK KKKKK

Mikulášská 2•MapM3 Hotel Metamorphis RightHotel Ungelt The Inter-Continental Inter-Continental Casa Marcello’s Casa Marcello Across thestreet Černá liška Old Town Hotels cards, andhave en-suite bathrooms andair conditioning Note: Unlessotherwise stated,all hotelsacceptcredit d

Pařížská 30 KKK guests, but d

Řásnovka • • www.uzlatestudny.cz • MapK5222220262 • Noairconditioning • www.umedviku.cz • [email protected] d ^ d business insummer. doesbigpatio restaurant phis apart.Nolift. The James settheMetamor- the intricatefaçade ofSt of Ungeltcoutyardand stoves andstirring views parquet ﬂoors,tiled touchesStylish like % $ & metamorphis.cz • metamorphis.cz N3 •221771011 •www. Malá Strana.) hotel ofasimilarnamein to beconfusedwiththe Extra bedsarefree.(Not luxurious adventure. the Golden Well isa cellar (askaboutthewell) rooms andlegendary one. itsantiqueWith back homeaboutthis favourite Budvar pub. situated above thecity’s andand metrostations, located, it’s closetotram the Bears centrally not onlyisthe complaints. Perhaps have registered no guests attheUngelt least twoghosts,but ishauntedbyvicinity at

KKK MaláŠtupartská 5•Map Na Perštýně 7•MapL6 You’ll tellthefolks U Zlaté studny An excellent location, U Medvídků Metamorphis Hotel The immediate Hotel Ungelt d pension at

Karlova 3 KKK

KKK and spaciousrooms. simple clean-cutinteriors chic imagewithits with Prague’s new urban design, HotelJosef ﬁtsin the clubdownstairs. ment, catch the acts at but for better entertain- minibar andsatellite TV, the 18 roomshasa an amiablecrew. Each of building isstaffed with the clean,modern clementin.cz • • 222221798 •www. hoteljosef.com • • 221700111 •www. conditioning • •Noair ustarepani.cz • 224228090www. d large luggage. might have troublewith small, butgracious. You this Gothicbuildingare expect, thenineroomsin the city. As you might the narrowest buildingin peculiar honourofbeing The Clementinhasthe * d ) d ( early. of Týn Church. Book courtyard offers glimpses apartments tonotice. The renovated 10th-century soundly inthenine they’re sleepingtoo conditioning • • www.ungelt.cz •Noair • MapN3224828686

Seminářská 4•MapK4 Rybná 20•MapN2 Michalská 9•MapL5 Clementin Hotel Modern andtrendyin Hotel Josef A no-frillsaffair, but Hotel Ustaré paní d

Štupartská 7

KKK KKK KKK

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Streetsmart 141 Tržiště Tržiště

d KK Dražického Dražického

d under Kč1,500 under K KK Kč1,500–Kč3,000 KKK Kč3,000–Kč4,500 KKKK Kč4,500–Kč6,000 Kč6,000 KKKKK over Aria An unusual little Dům U Lva Červeného Domus Henrici on the Built in 1372 Loretánská 11 • Map B2 Loretánská 11 Nerudova 41 • Map C2 Nerudova

KKKKK KKK KKK

furnished. 9 • Map C3 • 225 334111 • www.ariahotel.net • d ) • * the House at the From see Lion, guests can Red and Castle either Prague to the north or Nerudova Hill to the south. Petřín Guests will ﬁnd it hard to No. 32. room leave d ( • 257 533833 • www.hotelredlion.com • No air conditioning • náměstí 6 • Map D3 • 257 532320 • www.hotelbishops house.com • No air conditioning • Dis. access • 220 511369 • www. • 220 511369 domus-henrici.cz • No air conditioning • hotel, where each of the of the hotel, where each rooms, though not large, are modelled to a particular musical legend, be it Dizzy Gillespie or Mozart. The hotel’s musical director will also on concerts advise you can attend. you steep hill overlooking the the steep hill overlooking city, this small hotel is a from throw stone’s of Castle. Each Prague the eight rooms has Hill and of Petřín views thoughtful amenities chairs. as rocking such Price Categories Price a standard, For per double room night (with breakfast if included), taxes charges. and extra KKK

KKK

Valdštejnske Valdštejnske

d Jánský vršek 3 d Biskupský dům House Bishop’s The Zlatá Hvězda as the Built in 1372 Hotel Waldstein Hotel Duke Adjoining Nerudova 48 • Map C2 Nerudova

actually occupies two occupies two actually buildings: one is the former bishop’s Prague residence; the other was in the 18th a butcher’s them Between century. are 45 rooms, all comfortable and tastefully residence of Hradčany’s residence of Hradčany’s the Golden Star mayor, has a long history of rooms and The elegance. apartments are decked out with period furniture and modern baths. Room No. 33 is sublime. Albrecht von Wallen- von Albrecht a quiet palace on stein’s courtyard, this cosy hotel rooms and 15 features All the rooms suites. 10 are very comfortable and are furnished with antiques and reproductions. • Map B3 • 257 531268 • Map B3 • 257 531268 • • www.sax.cz nám. 6 • Map C2 • 257 533938 • www. • No air hotelwaldstein.cz conditioning • the Church of St of St the Church of the Church Nicholas, and Victorious Our Lady 19 The Castle. Prague rooms and three suites a bright central surround atrium. & d ^ % • 257 532867 • www. No • hotelgoldenstar.com air conditioning • . KKKK

KKK d KKKK ter with free ter with free

Recommend your favourite hotel on traveldk.com your favourite Recommend Malá Strana and Hradčany Hotels and Hradčany Malá Strana

Hotel Sax Hotel into the heart Tucked Hotel Čertovka small can watch You Rezidence Lundborg U Tří Pštrosů U Tří hotel at the The U lužického semináře 3 U lužického Dražického náměstí 12 náměstí 12 Dražického

of Malá Strana, the of Malá Strana, the modern Sax is close to boats pass beneath boats pass beneath Charles Bridge on the canal from Čertovka overlooking windows Venice” “Little Prague’s Top ﬂoor rooms have Top of the castle. views is some distance Parking from the hotel. Three Ostriches gets its gets its Ostriches Three name from a 16th- who was century owner, of ostrich a purveyor rooms are The feathers. comfortably furnished con- quiet and extremely sidering their proximity to Charles Bridge.

$ £ d

In case the view of the of the In case the view Charles Bridge isn’t of the enough, each suites is equipped 13 with a compu @ Internet access and a In the cellar, Jacuzzi. ﬁnd the Judith you’ll foundations. Bridge’s

d ! HotelAbove Čertovka • Map D2 • 257 011911 • • www.lundborg.se • Map D3 • 257 88888 • No • www.utripstrosu.cz air conditioning • lužického semináře 2 • Map semináře 2 • Map lužického • www. D2 • 257 011500 air • No certovka.cz conditioning • 142 Streetsmart • www.hoteljalta.cz •Dis. • MapN6222822111 • palacehotel.cz •Dis.access • 224093111 •www. £ d @ d ! Left next door. junk fromthebazaar like thedisplay oflovely has little eccentricities run quietand innis very and theriver, thefamily- Prague Botanical Gardens value. Located nearthe apartments aregreat furnished roomsand Catherine’s luxuriously The hotelatSt access • and businesscentre. a casino,fitnesscentre Other amenitiesinclude Mediterranean cuisine. excellentserves The Comorestaurant and five luxurioussuites. offers rooms 89stylish Square designerhotel lined bathrooms. luxuries includemarble- and otherextras. Little deal, completewithtours two-day honeymoon packages, includinga The hoteloffers several for itsexcellent service. the Palace isrenowned Square, on Wenceslas hotels aroundthecorner access • • www.hotel16.cz •Dis. • MapF6224919676 KKKK Václavské náměstí45 Panská 12 •MapN5 Doorman, Hotel Palace This Wenceslas Hotel Jalta As classyasthe Hotel Palace U svKateřiny Hotel 16 New Town Hotels KKKKK KK cards, andhave en-suite bathrooms andair conditioning Note: Unlessotherwise stated,all hotelsacceptcredit d Kateřinská16 Right Hotel Evropa ^ d % d original Art Decointeriors. seamlessly withthe and comforts combine hotel. Moderntechnology approach ofaboutique intimacy andindividual travellers whoprefer the leisure andbusiness accommodation aimedat This hoteloffers $ d access • • www.adria.cz •Dis. • MapN6221081111 imperial.cz • • 246011666 •www.hotel- conditioning • opera.cz •Noair • 222315609 •www.hotel- with itslargebath. the cornerroomNo.106, pink velvet daybed, and with itsMucha printsand charming areNo.107, comfortable. Particularly value, brightand are, however, great Renaissance façade. They to thehot-pinkneo- Hotel Operadon’t live up Guarded parkingnearby. cinemas andcafés. with itsmany shops, Square, busy Wenceslas Franciscan Gardensor out oneitherthe The 89snugroomslook their convent onthissite. Lady oftheSnows had at theChurch ofOur Carmelite nunsserving Václavské náměstí26 NaPoříčí 15 •MapG2 Těšnov 13 •MapH1 Imperial Hotel Art Deco The roomsatthe Hotel Opera In the14th century, Hotel Adria KKK KKK KKK Wenceslas Square. have goodviews over second-floor rooms outdated butfirst-and interior issomewhat suite bathrooms. The not allroomshave en- modern conveniences; café, guestsmay miss Nouveau façade and beds. rooms, four withdouble Prague. Ithaseight narrowest housesin of interest,inonethe Square andothersights proximity to Wenceslas situated in close enhanc massage centre every room. An oriental beds fromSweden in offers natural handmade • www.goldencross.cz • náměstí 2•224219501 d and theNew Town Hall. Close toKarlovo Náměstí hard. very the staff try A bitoldfashioned, but * d & ) d ( air conditioning• novomestskyhotel.cz •No • 221419911 •www. • Noairconditioning • www.evropahotel.cz • MapP6224228215 • 634100 •www.iconhotel.eu KKK Řeznická 4•MapF5 Václavské náměstí25 V jámě6•MapF4221 Hotel Novoměstský Despite the Art Hotel Evropa This charming hotelis Golden Cross This boutiquehotel Hotel Icon

d es itschic image. Jungmannovo KK

KK KK Streetsmart 143 KK Bělohorská Bělohorská KK KK d K Cementárně Politických Politických under Kč1,500 under d d K KK Kč1,500–Kč3,000 Pod novým lesem Pod KKK Kč3,000–Kč4,500 KKKK Kč4,500–Kč6,000 d Kč6,000 KKKKK over Domeček ve Domeček ve Střešovicích Hotel Squash Hotel hotel sits in a The Yasmin Hotel hotel has been This hairdressers. 24 • Map B2 • 233 102273 24 • Map B2 • 233 102273 • www.hotelpyramida.cz • No air conditioning • Dis. access • vězňů 12 • Map P6 • 234 • Map P6 • 234 12 vězňů • www.hotel- 100100 • KKK yasmin.cz 23, Střešovice • 233 920120 • 233 920120 23, Střešovice • [email protected] • No air conditioning • ) in a country Situated just a 15-minute setting Castle. from Prague walk bedroom is attic The furnished with antiques. only from March Available through November. Minimum three-night stay. * ( 1427, Radotín • 257 912024 912024 • 257 Radotín 1427, • [email protected] • No air conditioning • picturesque valley on the on the valley picturesque southern edge, city’s near the confluence of the and the Berounka Among Vltava. the rooms, those in the are especially garret charming. designed with luxury in rooms mind, with 196 floors. seven over furnishings adorn Tasteful of the rooms and a each ‘70s-retro globe hangs in A summer the lobby. and the light airyterrace a distinct offer feel from nearby difference offerings. KKK Za d Price Categories Price For a standard, For per double room night (with breakfast if included), taxes charges. and extra KK Hotel Pyramida Hotel large hotel near This Hotel Expo’ Hotel park, Near Stromovka Hotel Cloister Inn Cloister Hotel founded Jesuits The Konviktská 14 • Map K6 • 14 Konviktská Hořejší nábřeží, Smíchov Hořejší nábřeží, Smíchov Prague Castle resembles Castle resembles Prague Trams an Aztec pyramid. stopping outside whisk guests along a scenic route to the city centre in a large There’s minutes. as fitness centre as well the Expo’ was built to built to was the Expo’ accommodate visitors at trade fairs attending the adjacent exhibition rooms 106 The grounds. TV, satellite have each Wi-Fi and minibar. this cloister that gives this cloister that gives the hotel its name in the The Middle Ages. monastery was complex the then occupied by Sisters of St Grey in turn who were Francis, the secret replaced by 73 rooms The police. modern amenities. have elektrárnou 3, Holešovice elektrárnou 3, Holešovice • Map B5 • 266 712470 • Dis. • www.expoprag.cz access • Monastery, the Admiral Monastery,Admiral the rooms. 82 tiny offers prefer who Travellers more space should book apart- one of the four ments. Restaurant and Terrace. night club at the • 224 211020 • www. • 224 211020 • KK cloister-inn.com • Map A6 • 257 321302 A6 • 257 321302 • Map • www.admiral-botel.cz • No air conditioning • & d ^ % d KK K Podolské Podolské KK d odolí • 241 431628 odolí • 241 431628 Novelty Hotels Novelty

Moored across the Moored across the Botel Admiral Botel Botel Albatros Botel Albatros The fancies Floating on the Floating on the Botel Racek Botel Hotel Kafka Hotel evoke name may The

Nábřeží Ludvíka Svobody Nábřeží Ludvíka Svobody Cimburkova 24,Žižkov river from Palackého from Palackého river náměstí and the modern spires of Emmaus itself romantic; enjoying itself romantic; enjoying a drink on the deck, Castle gazing at Prague be inclined to you’d Square Town agree. Old away. walk is a 10-minute cabins are small, as The beﬁts a boat, but cosy. Vltava’s right bank, near right bank, near Vltava’s club and the local yacht large swimming the city’s and sports entertainment area at Žluté Lázně, the 86 rooms, a offers Racek restaurant and a top-deck trams will disco. Nearby to the centre in take you minutes. 10

some anxiety, but no guests at the sedate to ﬁnd woken Kafka have metamor- themselves The phosed into beetles. apartments can accommodate up to seven people. Good value. $ d

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d ! Botel Albatros Botel Above nábřeží, P nábřeží, • No www.botelracek.eu • air conditioning • • 224 810547 • www. • 224 810547 botelalbatros.cz • No air conditioning • • Map B6 • 222 780431 • No • www.hotelkafka.cz air conditioning • 144 Streetsmart • www.applehostel.cz • • MapP3777277534 air conditioning• • www.travellers.cz •No • MapM2224826662 £ @ • NoairconditioningK • www.sokol-cos.cz 2 •MapD3257007397 ! Left d summer. town areopenduringthe Other locationsaround anxious neighbours. share thebuildingwith a minimum,sinceyou keep your carousingto the Roxy nightclub,but Town hostelisabove of hostels. This Old wanderers inanetwork experience hosting more than15 years’ No smoking. athletic ﬂightofstairs. rooms areupasuitably doubles andeight12-bed six movement. The Republic nationalﬁtness name fromaFirst Strana hosteltakesits Old Town Square. Old TownSquare. the MunicipalHouseand time. Located close to with nocurfew orlockout is open24hoursaday room. laundry The hostel modern kitchen anda private shower. There isa six-bed roomswith a facilities, orsingleto and dormswithshared single to12-bed rooms visitors twooptionsof NáměstíRepubliky7 Hostel ELF This company has Travellers’ Hostel This centralMalá Hostel Sokol This hosteloffers Hostel Apple Hostels d Recommend your favourite hostel ontraveldk.com

Dlouhá 33 d Right

Nosticova K Hostel Advantage K

• Nocreditcards com •Noairconditioning • www.hostelboathouse. • access •Noairconditioning • www.sirtobys.com •Dis. • MapB5283870635 ^ d % d $ & • Noairconditioning • www.oldpraguehostel.com • MapN2224829058 kitchen areimmaculate. The bedrooms,bathsand when thehostelisfull. other accommodation helping travellers ﬁnd occasional barbecueand throwinghospitable, the to greatlengthsbe lounge. access andamovie dining room,Internet fully-equipped kitchen and showers. There’s alsoa dorms, well asfour-to two- toﬁve-bed roomsas of Prague, thishostelhas beds toaroom. boat rental. Three tonine access andbicycle and such internet aslaundry, offer numerousservices, hostel. Itdoes,however, Boathouse isnotaparty run by strictrules, the south ofthecentreand centre, thisisanideal stone’s throw fromthe

Lodnická 1•241770051 Dělnická 24,Holešovice The staff herego Sir Toby’s Hostel Located inthecentre Old Prague Hostel Located 20minutes Boathouse Hostel Located justa Miss Sophie’s some with private private some with d

Benediktská 2 eight-bed K

K of aﬁndesièclebuilding Open July toSeptember. a beergardenadjacent the school year. There is student housing through desk. close tothereception andtwoPCsareWi-Fi Kitchenette and TV, free seven-bed rooms. ranges fromsinglesto credit cards• • Noairconditioning • www.miss-sophies.com 3 • MapG6296303530 tours for you. staff willarrange walking room andgarden. The shared kitchen, common dormitories. There isa singles to11-bed ELF’s roomsrangefrom Hosteltrain stations, near themainbusand conditioning • • [email protected] air • Map A4 •257210410 * d ) ( conditioning • credit cards•Noair • www.hostelelf.com •No 11 •MapH3222540963 with kitchen. apartments, complete more expensive arethe suite bathrooms.Slightly private roomswithen- It offers dormsaswell as base toexplore thecity. conditioning • advantagehostel.cz •Noair G5 •224914062 • www.

Vaníč On thesecondﬂoor Hostel ELF The dormitories are Hostel Strahov Accommodation Hostel Advantage d kova 5, Strahov Strahov 5, kova

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Husitská •Map Streetsmart 145 K KK dation dation KK Rašínovo Rašínovo

under Kč1,500 under d K Čelakovského Čelakovského KK Kč1,500–Kč3,000

KKK Kč3,000–Kč4,500 d KKKK Kč4,500–Kč6,000 Kč6,000 KKKKK over Hotel and Resi- Hotel dence Standard Marit Hotel in a resi- Situated Čelakovskeho Čelakovskeho sady Čapkova 13, Michle Michle 13, Čapkova Jungmannova 9 Jungmannova

KKK nábřeží 38 • Map B6 • 224 • www.standard.cz 916060 • Christian guesthouse, Christian guesthouse, a encounter may you in the group prayer hosts The common room. are very pleasant. sady 8 • Map G5 • 257 • [email protected] 210410 • No air conditioning • d ( First-rate accommo house in a Jugendstil Nine Vltava. along the double rooms and two use suites. Guests have garage. of a private Children under seven stay free. ) d * the small Overlooking the green surrounding National Museum, this is just bed-and-breakfast to a three-minute walk The Square. Wenceslas apartments and homey rooms are fully furnished to the pots and down pans. • 261 223842 • www. hotelmarit.cz • No air conditioning • • Map M6 • 296 245432 • www.churchpension.cz • No air conditioning • dential neighbourhood, dential neighbourhood, a like the Marit feels All rooms home. family Kids TV. satellite have stay half-price. under 10 KK Price Categories Price For a standard, For per double room night (with breakfast if included), taxes charges. and extra KK

Národní KK

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d d Church Pension Church Church Evangelic The Pension Denisa Pension to high Reconstructed Pension Cora Pension in a peaceful Located Krokova 6 • Map B6 Krokova

of the Czech Brethren Brethren of the Czech has put its hospitality skills to the test at this The small guesthouse. rooms are suitably austere; not all have a en-suite baths. Being standards, the Denisa sits in a quiet neighbourhood just steps from the 42 rooms each The metro. refrigerator and have plus, your TV; satellite to hosts bring breakfast room. your villa-quarter in southeast villa-quarter in southeast not the Cora is Prague, buses central, but nearby cars and the pension’s anywhere can take you Ameni- need to go. you TV ties include satellite The and a billiard room. hosts serve a big breakfast. 7a, Braník • 241 490004 • www.corahotel.cz • No air conditioning • obrany 33, Dejvice • Map 33, Dejvice obrany • www. A5 • 224 318969 hotel-denisa.cz • No air conditioning • sit in the pension’s sit in the pension’s ﬁve The garden. stunning rooms are simply and comfortably furnished. Good access to public stay free. transport. Pets & ^ % d • 241 408455 • www. pension-vysehrad.cz • No air conditioning • Pension Denisa Pension Liliová 18 18 Liliová

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d Pensions and Bed-and-Breakfasts Pensions Černínská 10 • Map Černínská 10

d Pension Vyšehrad Just around the corner Residence Liliová Pension Pension Dientzenhofer U Raka most Prague’s

KKKK KKK from Charles Bridge, this guesthouse in a lovely a historic building provides quiet and comfortable place to stay. romantic address, the romantic address, the House at the Crayﬁsh started out as a barn in Inside the log walls 1739. country- are charming style No. 6 rooms. Room garden, has its own Near ﬁreplace and well. the Castle and Prague under No children Loreto. 12. • Map K5 • 910 020737 • Map K5 • 910 • No air • www.liliova.cz conditioning • A2 • 220 511100 • www. A2 • 220 511100 romantikhotel-uraka.cz •

$ guesthouse lovely This is nearly inside the Stroll walls. Vyšehrad through the park each at sunset or evening £ The quiet house on the quiet house on the The banks of the Čertovka canal is the birthplace Kilian Ignaz of architect who built Dientzenhofer, of Church the nearby and other St Nicholas The edifices. Baroque Very garden is idyllic. hospitable. @ ! Pension Cora Right Cora Pension left Above • Map D3 • 257 311319 • Map D3 • 257 311319 • www.dientzenhofer.cz • 146 Streetsmart conditioning • • [email protected] air hotelsprague.cz/uvoz • 233920118 •www. • No airconditioning• prague.org •[email protected] • www.apartments-in- (UK) +442081636563 • MapB6251512502, £ rounding area. base toexplore thesur- tion makes thistheideal Old Townloca- baths. The wooden floorsandItalian Each hasvaulted ceilings, nine spaciousapart has beenconverted into the Three GoldenChains known astheHouseat A palacehistorically @ d and awashing machine. a stocked refrigerator all theutensilsyou need, The brightkitchen has with simplefurniture. appointedis tastefully street lined Vinohrady bedroom flatonatree- This spacious,one- ! Left the terrace ontheroof. are gorgeousviews from romantic setting. There privacy, anda tranquillity Ideal for those seeking below thePrague Castle. Baroque-style housejust art studios inasmall any ofthreeconverted com • • www.residence retezova. 9 •MapK5222221800 d Úvoz 24•Map B2 Lužická 14, Vinohrady Hotel ResidenceŘetěžová Řetěžová Hotel Residence Lužická Apartment Accommodation isin Apartments Úvoz KKK Apartments one week –check when making abooking. Many apartments haveaminimumstay ofatleastthree nightsor KK d Řetěžova ments. K

Right ^ d Charles Bridge. few minutes’ walk from All this,andit’s justa chanand crystal touches asantique clocks out withsuch fine apartments aredecked VIPs andcelebrities. The andotherwith filmstars the Nosticova ispopular corner ofMaláStrana, Tucked intoahidden % baths. furniture andmodern large windows, antique painted wooden beams, each have beautiful lined MaláStranastreet apartments onapalace- These seven romantic $ d conditioning • nosticova.com •Noair • 257312513 •www. conditioning • • [email protected] air hotelsprague.cz/vojtesska 233 920118 • •www. conditioning • • Dis.accessNoair • [email protected] • MapB3233920118 Nosticova value for money. machines andaregood bathrooms withwashing kitchens andensuite are equippedwith different buildings. They spread acrossthree these sixapartmentsare the National Theatre, Nosticova 1•MapD3 Vojtěšská 18 •MapB2 Steps The Castle Vlašská Apartments Located justbehind Voyta Residence Residence Alchymist d Vlašská 7–8 Vlašská KKK KK KK deliers. Petřín park. views over and thecity features andmany have furnished withperiod bright roomsare home. stately All ofthe who hasjustentereda like apamperedguest and roomsmake you feel Outdoor swimmingpool. bath andsatellite TV. rooms, each withitsown centre. There are10 (3 miles)fromthecity airport isfree. transport toandfromthe than 7nightsandyour TV andstereo.Staymore bedrooms, bath,kitchen, flat comprisestwo • Noairconditioning hotelsprague.cz/pankrac Jezerce 9,Pankrác •www. * comfortable. TVs helpmake equipped kitchens and Jiřího zPoděbrad. Fully near metroandtramstop offers sixapartments This bookingagency & d ) ( conditioning • pensionklenor.cz •Noair • 241723240www. • www.castlesteps.com •KK • MapC2800227853 • Noairconditioning hotelsprague.cz/ucisare • 233920118 •www. 898/23, Vinohrady •MapB6 Ve Studeném 6,Braník These apartments Steps The Castle U Císaře Apartments Five kilometres Pension Klenor This largethird-floor Privát Pankrác d d KK Nerudova 7 Slezská d guests Na K K Streetsmart 147 KK Marie

d KK KK under Kč1,500 under K Elišky Peškové 11,

KK Kč1,500–Kč3,000 KKK Kč3,000–Kč4,500 d KKKK Kč4,500–Kč6,000 Kč6,000 KKKKK over

Hotel Vaníček Hotel Smíchov Overlooking Hotel Excellent Hotel small hotel lives This Julián Hotel Within walking Na Hřebenkách 60, Na Hřebenkách Líbeznická 164/19, 164/19, Líbeznická

KK date with satellite TV and TV and date with satellite internet connections but holds on to its 19th- century charm. Smíchov • Map A6 • 257 • Map Smíchov • www.julian.cz 311150 • Dis. access • CibulkovéVy 29,šehrad • Map B6 • 261 225592 • www.hotel-vysehrad.cz • d ) * d ( Smíchov • Map A6 • 257 • Map Smíchov 222971 • www.hotel • No air vanicek.cz conditioning • Kobylisy • 284 687295 Kobylisy • www.hotel-excellent.cz • No air conditioning • from its perch on Petřín on Petřín from its perch offers Vaníček Hill, the from view guests a river Simple its terraces. rooms and services. up to its name if you up to its name if you mind being away don’t Your from the crowd. book to hosts are happy ﬂights, train tickets, seats at the opera or just around town. you show distance of Malá Strana, Art is an the Julián charmer. Nouveau the Guests will gush over the and lift red-velvet Some ﬁreside library. and a kitchen suites have there is a business centre and conference room. KK KKKK For a standard, For per double room night (with breakfast if included), taxes charges. and extra Price Categories Price (see (see KK kové 19, ments of Vyšehrad, Vyšehrad, ments of Hotel Vyšehrad Hotel the congress Behind The Art Nouveau Art The Nouveau Hotel Anna Hotel Hotel Sieber Hotel as a Built in 1889 Hotel Belvedere Hotel near Located Budečská 17 • Map B6 Budečská 17 Slezská 55, Žižkov Slezská 55, Žižkov Milady Horá

centre, close to the centre, close to the monu this hotel is fully up to building in Vinohrady was was Vinohrady building in residence built as a private at the end of the 19th 26 rooms The century. are decorated with of historic engravings the top- From Prague. can floor suites, you of the castle views enjoy Town. and the Old block of flats, the Sieber of flats, the Sieber block history. has had a rocky A US bombing raid dam- Nationa- aged it in 1945. II, it War World after lized to the return didn’t hands until Sieber family luxurious, and Very 1991. are delightful. the staff Veletržní Palace Palace Veletržní is pp26–7), the Belvedere Old to the a short walk Castle. or Prague Town stop just outside. Trams rooms are very The price. the comfortable for Holešovice • Map B5 • 220 Holešovice • www.hhotels.cz 106111 • Dis. access • d & ^ d d % $ • 222 513111 • www. • 222 513111 hotelanna.cz • Dis. access • No air conditioning • • Map B6 • 224 250025 • • www.sieber.cz KKK KK KKK .dorint.de/Prag Vinohradská 157, 157, Vinohradská Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit Unless otherwise stated, all hotels accept credit Note: cards, and have en-suite bathrooms and air conditioning Sušická 20, Sušická

Hotels outside the City Centre outside the Hotels d d

Hotel Praha Hotel Communists The Dorint Don Dorint Prague Giovanni Hotel Diplomat Hotel but not within Near, Evropská 15, Dejvice Evropská 15,

secluded this wave- shaped modern master- piece within its own would Party The park. blush to see the bour- the geoisie enjoying gourmet rest- hotel’s aurant and brasserie, swimming pool and rooms The tennis courts. in are as ﬁne as any town. earshot of Ruzyně earshot of Ruzyně airport, the Diplomat has 398 rooms and all modern conveniences. include several Facilities restaurants, a business centre and an indoor go- Children under cart track. six stay free. Good access to the centre. Žižkov • Map B6 • 267 Žižkov 031111 • www • Dis. access • £

The Don Giovanni offers offers Don Giovanni The in the value excellent of its 397 elegant form rooms and 42 suites. Guests can take advantage of the spa-treatment and baby-sitting facilities hotel is The service. located near conveniently metro, bus and tram stops. @

d ! Hotel Anna Hotel Above • Map A5 • 296 559111 A5 • 296 559111 • Map • www.diplomathotel.cz • Dis. access • Dejvice • Map A5 • 224 Dejvice • Map • www.htlpraha.cz 341111 • Dis. access • 148 Index Arzenal 102 (Old Art Gallery Town) 16 Artěl 56 Art Dekor 76 Art DecoHotelImperial142 Art Deco56 Art Coffee 96 Gallery Aria 141 Archibald attheCharles 146 Apartments Vlašská Apartments Úvoz 146 Apartments UCísaře146 apartments 130, 146 Apartment Lužická 146 Antonín 19 antiques 132 Antique Kaprova 102 Antique Cinolter102 Annonce 130 Anne (wife of animals 130, 134 Anglo-American University Angel Café 113 Anděl Metro49 American Heating87 ambulances 137 Ambiente – The Living Amadeus Altdorfer, Albrecht, ofSSFelicissimusAltars Alma (Mahlerová) Antique Allegro 63 Alcron 62–3 Alcohol Bar 61 alchemists 53 Alchemist Residence air travel 126 Agnes ofBohemia, St AghaRTA Jazz Centrum 77 Adalbert, St120 accommodation 130, Absinth Shop87 absinth 53 A General Index Bridge 138 Ferdinand I)8 135 Room 123 29 ofStFlorian Martyrdom 21 and Marcia(The Loreto) 102 Nosticova 146 28, 29 138–47 (film)46 Boleslav II, Prince 9 Bohn 18 Bohemian Crown Jewels Bohemian Chancellery Bohemia International Bohemia Bagel 88 La BodeguitadelMedio boats 127 Boathouse Hostel144 143Boatel Albatros boat trips55 Blue 57, 76 Black Madonna,Houseof Black Light Theatre 55 dům141Biskupský Binoche, Juliette 46 Billiard centrum vCípu111 bicycles 127 Bethlehem Square75 Bertramka 120 Bernini, GianLorenzo 38 Bernardt, Sarah79 Beneš, Edvard 11 Belltower (The Loreto) 20 Bellevue 79 Beethoven, Ludwigvan beer 53,59,133 bed-and-breakfast 145 The Beatles 50,65 baskets, inshops132 Bashevi, Jacob 23 Bashevi, Hendl23 non-stop and bars andkavárnas 60–1 Barrier-Free Prague 134 Barrandov Studios 47, 120 Barock 103 bargain food 132 Bar Bar 88 banks 136 Bakeshop Praha 101, 102 bags, inshops132 B Avril, Jane 27 ATMs 136 Atmoška 78 Astronomical Clock 16, 17 13 (Royal Palace) 10 68 Folklore DanceFestival 132 the 36 65, 68 129 herna bars disabledvisitors134 buses 127 Buquoy Palace 86 Bugsy’s 61 Buffalo Bill’s 113 Budweiser 53 budget travel 133 Bruncvik, statue of19 brunch 131 Brožík, Václavvon, Brod, Max111 breakfast 131 Braun, Matthias 18, 19 Brahe, Tycho de35,92,138 Břevnov 120 Monastery The Bourne47 Identity Botel Racek 143 Botel143 Admiral Bořivoj, Prince 8,34,90 bootleg goods132 books 132 Černý, David, Černá Liška140 Čelakovskeho sady145 Čedok 128 Čapek, Karel44 C Prague Castleand Old Town New 78 MaláStrana88 Town 112 Josefov 103 GreaterPrague 122 cafés Café Slavia 60 96 Savoy Café Café Poet 96 Café deParis 75,78 Café Obecnídům78 Café Louvre 111 Café Indigo78 Café Imperial79 Café GrandPraha 78 Café 96 Gallery Café Galerie96 Café Franz Kafka103 Café Faux Pas 122 Café Colonial103 Café Bella Vida 88 Café 35112 11 Prague’s Defenestration R.U.R. Hradčany 96 St Wenceslas 31 45 Index 149 Rider 27 15, 82, 145 15, 82 Loreto) 21 Loreto) Jaguar Attacking a Attacking Jaguar Horseman Solomon 25 (Manufaktura) 76 (Manufaktura) 69 Bourgeoise) 62 Bourgeoise) 11 of 37 Freedom and Freedom Democracy 69 Diet (Royal Palace) 10 Palace) Diet (Royal disabled visitors 134 126 discount travel disabled visitors 134 Alfred Divadlo ve 64 Dvoře 64 Archa Divadlo Na Zábradlí 64 Divadlo Dientzenhofer, Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, Dientzenhofer, Christoph Dientzenhofer, dentists 137 47 Depp, Johnny 43 Devil The Pillar 121 Devil’s Diamond Monstrance (The Delmedigo, Joseph Delmedigo, Joseph Czech lessons 135 Czech Building 49 Radio Czech Statehood 69 Day Czech Czech Ceramics 56–7 Czech Crafts Folk Czech crime 129, 130, 137 130, crime 129, 77 Cross Club Tom 46 Cruise, 121 Cubist houses 136 currency 136 exchange currency 126 customs limits 127 cycling St 19 Cyril, and Methodius Day Cyril Deitch, Gene 47 Deitch, Delacroix, Eugène, La Degustation (Boheme La Degustation (Boheme Dee, John 35 Dee, John of Prague Defenestration Day of Liberation 69 Day Daniel 46 Day-Lewis, Decastello 87 Arts, Decorative Museum D Da Nico 79 Dalibor 9 of the Fight for Day el v 133 50–1 Caspian 47 Prince 21 38 14, Týn Before 31 the Snows 38, 83 Victorious Methodius 107 75 65, 74, 33 65, 82, 83 39, 15, 121 Paul 65 and Jude of the 110 86 48–9 Communism 49, 107, 110 Congress Centre 49, 121 63 Country Life 97 Cowboys credit cards 136 in restaurants 131 in shops 132 La Creperie 122 Choco-Story Museum 105 Frédéric Chopin, 69 Christmas of Narnia: Chronicles The 145 Pension Church 38–9 churches of the Nativity Church of Our Lady Church of Our Lady of Church of our Lady Church and of Sts Cyril Church 39, of St James Church of St Lawrence Church 33 of St Michael Church of St Nicholas Church and of Sts Peter Church of Sts Simon Church music recitals 65 Věra 47 Chytilová, city gates 74 Museum City of Prague, 75 Clementinum 74, Clinton, Bill 60 clubs 66–7 133 budget travel 126 travel coach Count Colloredo-Mansfeld, Communism 35 monuments Communist Memorial 31 Communist of Museum composers 44–5 concerts, budget tra Royal , 38, , 18–19 House in 12–13 , 99, 101 Prague Castle Prague the Snows 31 the Snows Shop 76 Emperor 34 53, 81, 83, 129 13, 80 13, Palace) 11 Palace) 61 26 Aix-en-Provence 22–3 120 39 65, 91, 93 see Hunger Wall 33 Wall Hunger 104 Town náměstí 106 Karlovo New Cathedral 12 Vitus’s St Gate 121 Tábor tomb of 13 Charles VI, Emperor 25 Charles Bridge 6, 54–5 children 121 Josef Chochol, of of Our Lady Church 135 Charles University Gift Charles University becomes Holy Roman Charles IV, Emperor 11, Emperor 11, Charles IV, Chapel of All Saints ( Chapel of Chapeau Rouge Chapeau Rouge Cemetery Olšany 120 Ceremonial Hall 100 Cézanne, Paul, Cemetery Old Jewish 7, Cat’s Gallery 56 Cat’s 75 Celetná 74, Celts 53 cemeteries Cemetery Jewish New and Methodius Sts Cyril The Castle Steps 146 The Castle, Vyšehrad 53 41 Castle terraces 6, Cathedrals Vitus’s St Calvary 18 89 Cantina 29 Cycle Capuchin 86 Francesco Caratti, 47 Carlyle, Robert 127 cars 126, lessons driving 135 130 parking 140 Casa Marcello 82 Casanova Casements 121 Castle, Prague 150 Index Erpet Bohemia Ephraim Solomonben English-language grammar Emmaus Devil 52 emergency numbers137 Eliezer benElijah Elevator (Old Town Hall)16 El Centro89 eccentric Prague 50–51 Ebel Coffeehouse 78 Easter Monday 69 E Dynamo 113 Dvořák, Karel19 National grave of40 Theatre 106 Dvořák Museum110 Dvořák, Antonín 44,45 Dürer, Albrecht, 14Dům uMinuty IvaDům uČerveného 141 Dukla Memorial16 Velvet Revolution 31 Dubček, Alexander, drugs, illegal53 The Drowned Man52 driving lessons135 driving inPrague 127 Drahomíra 53 Dorotheum 57 Dorint DonGiovanni Domus Henrici141 Domeček ve Střešovicích dogs, helper134 dog mess129 doctors 137 Dr Stuart’s Botanicus56, Divinis 79 Prague Castle8,41 Ferdinand I,Emperor false stories53 F Eufemia (wife of 65 TheatreEstates Aaron ofLuntshits25 schools 135 Ashkenazi 25 45 SymphonyNew World Apocalypse Cycle 29 Prague Spring35,49 Prague 147 143 76 Wenceslas IV)16 57 Crystal 37 Gallery Montanelli GalerieMánes107, 110 galleries Galerie Ztichlá klika 110Art Galerie Via Galerie Mánes107, 110 G gardens Gans, David 22 Gauguin, Paul, gargoyles 54 The GoldenKey 42 Golden Cross142 Goethe Institute 135 Globe Bookstore and 89 (restaurant) Gitanes George ofPoběbrady 75, FrankGehry, 63 Funicular 33 Fuchs, Josef 27 From Hell47 Friends 77 Fried, Michal 52 French Institute 135 Free Prague Tours 133 Franz KafkaSociety Franz KafkaBookshop 76 Franz I,Emperor10 Franciscan Garden31, Four Seasons138 Fountain, Křižík51,55 Fortuna139 West Forman, Miloš46,47 safety 129, 137 budgettravel 132, food 58–9 flats 130, 146 Fischer von Erlach, Johann 137fire services filmmakers 47 film locations46–7 festivals 68–9 St Vitus’s Cathedral13 Ferdinand I,Emperor see also New Town110 bookshop 76 gardens 112 Coffeehouse 106, 107, 92 Monsieur Gauguin Bookshop 102 41, 105 133 Bernard 21 (cont.) see museums parksand Bonjour, 26 Guttfreund, Otto 27 guided tours127 IX,PopeGregory 29 The GreenLobster 43 The Green(Old Town Hall) walks Vyšehrad sights121 117 restaurants 123 map cafés andpubs122114 Greater Prague 114–23 grave symbols,Old Grand HotelBohemia 138 Grand Café Praha 78 Grand Café Orient61 MonumentofNational Gottwald, Klement11 Gothic Chapel(Old Town Gothic Cellars(Old Town Maxim104Gorky, PalaceGolz-Kinský 15 The Golem52 The Golden Wheel 43 Golden Portal (St Vitus’s Golden Lane53,90 H Hilton Prague Old Town Hilton 139 Hilsner, Leopold 25 High Synagogue 99 Heydrich, Reinhard 39, helper dogs134 health 137 Havelský trh56 Wax MuseumPraha 110 UZlatéhotygra60 Svobodné slovo Balcony Divadlo NaZábradlí64 Café Čertovka 88 Havel, Václav 11, 45 haunted places52–3 Hašek, Jaroslav 44 Hapu 122 Hans von Aachen 11 Hanil 123 17 Jewish 23 Cemetery Liberation 48,117 Hall) 16 Hall) 17 Cathedral) 13 139 106 31 Disturbing thePeace 45 Soldier Švejk 45 Adventures oftheGood Index 151

see , 99, 101 22–3 14, 17 14, 83 65, 101 39, 101 24, 38, 99, 101 45 Trial The 7, 120 101 Castle 45 The 101 Abraham 25 Josefov John Paul II, Pope 29 II, Pope Paul John 83 Garáž 67, Jo’s I, Emperor 57 Josef 25 II, Emperor 10, Josef 98 Josefov Monastery Strahov 33 98–103 Josefov 98 and restaurants 103 cafés map 102 shops 101 walks John of Luxembourg 11, 11, of Luxembourg John John Lennon Wall 53, 81, Wall Lennon John 39, Spanish Synagogue Pinkas Synagogue 50 Museum Praha Wax Old-New Synagogue Synagogue Old-New Cemetery Old Jewish Dům u Minuty 14 Cemetery Jewish New 100, Maisel Synagogue K 25, 35, 44, 50 Kafka, Franz 111 Louvre Café Jáma Restaurace Jáma 113 69 Day Hus Jan Hus Memorial 15 Jan 111 c. 14 Café Jazz Club U StaréJazz pani 77 82 Jesuits 37 Museum Jewish Hall 99, 101 Town Jewish 25 Jews Quarter 99 High Synagogue Jewish 100, Klausen Synagogue J 48 Michael Jackson, Mordecai ben Jaffe, Internet 128 Internet 136 cafés Internet 52 Iron Man The Prague Castle Prague and Hradčany Hradčany 141 Hradčany Madonna 36 Kunštát and Poděbrady 75 14 see also Certiﬁcate 135 Hradčany Restaurant 97 Hradčany Hughes brothers 47 Hulce, Tom 46 Hunger Wall 33 35 15, Hus, Jan Square 75 Bethlehem 34 15, 12, Wars Hussite Hus Memorial 15 Jan Hybernia 64 106 Hynais, Vojtěch Hotel U staréHotel paní 140 140 Hotel Ungelt Hotel Vaníček 147 Hotel Vyšehrad 147 Hotel Waldstein 141 Hotel Yasmin 143 hotels 138–47 accommodation tips 130 hotels 139 chain disabled visitors 134 luxury hotels 138 Malá Strana and 142 Town New hotels 143 novelty hotels 140 old town city outside the centre 130 147 standards House of the Black of House of the Lords House at the Stone Bell house signs 42–3 cz 128 Houser. 45 Hrabal, Bohumíl Hlučná samota 122 79 Sarah Bernhardt U Zlatého tygra 60 57 Hračky náměstí 93 Hradčanské Hradčany 141 hotels I 128 Pocket Your In 69 Independence Day sources 128 information 29 Pope Innocent IV, insurance, health 137 140 Inter-Continental International TEFL Standard 145 Meteor Plaza 139 142 122 83, 88 Hotel Sax 141 Hotel Sieber 147 Hotel Squash 143 Hotel U krále Karla 138 78 Hotel U Prince Hotel Čertovka 141 Hotel Čertovka Hotel Clementin 140 Hotel Cloister Inn 143 Hotel Diana 123 Hotel Diplomat 147 Hotel Evropa 31, 78, 142 147 Hotel Excellent 143 Hotel Expo’ 138 Hotel Hoffmeister Hotel Ibis 139 Hotel Icon 142 Hotel Imperial 144 Hotel Jalta 142 140 Hotel Josef 147 Hotel Julián Hotel Kafka 143 Hotel Marit 145 Hotel Metamorphis 140 Hotel Na Zlatém Křiží 142 Hotel Opera 142 142 Hotel Palace 138 Hotel Paříž 138 Věží Hotel Pod 147 Hotel Praha Hotel Pyramida 143 Hotel and Residence Hotel Adria Hotel Adria 142 Hotel Anna 147 147 Hotel Belvedere Western Hotel Best Hostel Advantage Hostel Advantage 144 Hostel ELF 144 144 Hostel Sokol 144 Hostel Strahov 144 hostels 133, 112 Hostinec U Kalicha Kateřiny U Svaté Hotel 16 Hospůdka nad Viktorkou Viktorkou Hospůdka nad history34–5 Adolf 25 Hitler, samotaHlučná 122 Hodinářství 102 115 Holešovice Inn 139 Holiday national 69 holidays, 127 horses and carriages hospitals 137 Čevtovce Hospůdka Na 152 Index L Květinářstvi uČervéneho Kundera, Milan45,46 Kulturní Přehled 128 Krásnohorská, Kramář,27 Vincenc Křižík Fountain 51,55 Kolya 47 Kolowrat family 86 Kokoschka, Oskar110 Kogo 75,79 83 Knights ofMalta Klub architektů 79 Klimt, Gustav 110 Klausen Synagogue 22, Prague Castle91 11Klaus, Václav King Solomon101, 103 Khrushchev, 48 Nikita Keramika 76 Clementinum 74 Antikvariat uKarlova Kepler, Johannes 22,34, Kempinski 139 Kelley, Edward 35 kavárnas 60–1 Kaunitz Palace 86 International Karlovy Vary Karlovy Iázne66,77 Karlovo náměstí106 Karlova 75 Kara, Avigdor22 Kampa Park 62,89 Kampa Island40,82–3 96 Kajetánka Landau, Yechezkelben Lamarr, Hedy47 Labour Day 69 Laurens, Henri, Laterna Magika64 late-night eating131 Lapidarium 120 110Langweil, Antonín language schools 135 Lemon Leaf 113 Lehká Hlava 79 Le Corbusier26 Iva 87 Lightness ofBeing 45 The Unbearable Eliška 106 100, 101 Mostu 76 35 Film Festival 68 Yehuda 25 Young Girl27 Head ofa Malostranská Malostranská Malostranská Beseda 89 Malé náměstí15 walks 83 shops 87 restaurants 89 palaces 86 map 80 hotels cafés andpubs88 141 Malá Strana80–9 Malý Buddha97 Maisel Synagogue 100, 101 Jewish Town Hall99 HighSynagogue 99 grave of22 Maisel, Mordecai Mailsi 123 Magic GarnetMuseum magazines 136 The MadBarber 53 Machatý, Gustav 47 Mácha, KarelHyneck M1 77 M Lví dvůr97 Lundgren, Dolph46 Luitgard, St19 Ludvik, King12 Ludmila, St9 Ludlum, Robert 47 Lucerna 67, 100, 111 (Royal Palace)Louis Wing Lorraine Cross18 The Loreto 7, Loretánské náměstí20 Old-New Synagogue 24 KlausenSynagogue 100 grave of22 The Golem52 Loew benBezalel, Rabbi Lobkowitz Palace 86 Lobkovický Palace 96 The Little Whale (UMalé Lichtenstein Palace 86 Letná Plinth48 Letná Park 115 Leopold II,Emperor10 Lennon, John 53,81 restaurace 89 restaurace 25, 35,100 Prague 102 33, 69 93 10 Jehuda 25,100 velryby) 89 20–1 , 38,91, Montanelli Gallery 37 Gallery Montanelli money 132, 136 Moje-Tvoje 87 Zub79 Modrý Modrá Zahrada103 Mlada, Princess 9 Miss Sophie’s 144 46 Mission: Impossible Les Misérables46 Misch-Masch 77 Mirror Labyrinth 33,54 Mirror Chapel65 Miller, Jonny Lee 47 Museum History Military Mikuláš 69 Michna Palace 86 Meyrink, Gustav44 Metro 127 Methodius, St19 Menzel, Jiří47 Mendelssohn, Medúza 122 Mecca 67 May Day 68 Maximilian II, Matthias, Emperor34 Matthew d’Arras 12, 13 Mathey, Jean-Baptiste 120 Material-Glass Store87 Masopust 69 26 NationalGallery Czech independence 34 Garrigue Tomáš Masaryk, Jan 53 Masaryk, 21 Virgin Mary, markets 56–7 Marionette Orpheuset Marionette Marriage of Marionette DonGiovanni marijuana 53 Marian Column15 Prague Castle9 New CastleSteps92 Empress Maria Theresa, 138Mandarin Oriental Mánes, Josef 17 Maltézské néměstí83 Malostranské náměstí82, 93 Felix 65 Emperor 8 11, 25 Euridice 51 Figaro 51 50 10, 42 83

Index 153 10–11 , 75 16–17 , 73, 75 , 99, 101 14–15 38, 99, 101 22–3 map 104 110 (St Vitus’s Cathedral) 13 Cathedral) Vitus’s (St (cont.) Old Town Square 6, Town Old CemeteryOlšany 120 Olympos 123 One-Armed Thief 52 133 opera, budget travel Old Prague Hostel 144 Old Prague 8, Palace Old Royal 72–9 Old Town 72 and pubs 78 cafés map 77 nightclubs 76 places to eat 79 shops 75 walks 18 Tower Bridge Town Old Hall Old Town Old-New Synagogue 24, Synagogue Old-New O 87 vším možným Obchod 32 Observation Tower 61 O’Che’s prices 130 off-season Old Castle Steps 92–3 CemeteryOld Jewish 7, nightspots 111 nightspots 113 restaurants 107 walks Hall 107 Town New 135 University York New 136 newspapers 111 nightclubs Town 77 New Town Old 86 Nostitz Palace Karel 48 V. Novák, 142 Hotel Novoměstský 139 Novotel 92, 93 Nový Svět Nusle Bridge 121 hotels 142 142 hotels New Castle Steps 92, 93 New CemeteryJewish 120 New 104–13 Town New & pubs 112 cafés museums galleries & 43 Lilies Three The 42 Suns Two The 81, 83 Nerudova Chapel Archbishop’s New Neruda, Jan Nerudova Nerudova Jan Neruda, , 45 Museum 37 Museum Museum 110 Gallery 37 Museum 37 28–9 Theatre) 64, 106, 107 64, 106, Theatre) 65 36 65 Theatre 117 Hill 48, 116, Vítkov 110 49, 107, Museum 37 107 64, 106, divadlo) Grandmother Cemetery)Jewish 23 museums (cont.) museums Technical National 110 Town New Stamp Museum 110 Police Postage Municipal Prague Transport Public 36 Rudolﬁnum 7, Convent Agnes’s St Museum 51 Machine Sex 50 Museum Praha Wax music 133 budget travel recitals 65 church Můstek 106 30 Josef Myslbek, N 111 N11 105 Na Přikopě Náměstí Republiky 105 Napoleon I, Emperor 10 (National Národní divadlo marionet Národní divadlo Národní třída 106 26–7 National Gallery 7, national holidays 69 national holidays National Marionette National Memorial on the National Museum 30, 36, National Technical National Theatre (Národní Martina 110 Navratilova, Neeson, Liam 46 Božena, Němcová, Nephele Mound (Old of 35 Nepomuk, St John stories 53 false Cross 18 Lorraine of 19 statue 38 tomb of 13, Jan Neruda, 81 Nerudova , 26–7 46 36, 49, 107, 110 36, 49, 107, the Vítkov Hill 48, 116, Hill 48, 116, Vítkov the 117 36 Instruments 50 Instruments Arts 37 Communism 49, 107, 110 Communism 49, 107, Prague 110 Prague Museum 93 Prague 102 Prague 100 Madonna 36 50–1 Hall) 16 Cathedral 13 Figaro 51 Giovanni 50 Giovanni Amadeus 44 Amadeus 48–9 Police Torture 92 Torture Police National Museum 30, National Memorial on National Gallery 7, Museum of Torture Torture of Museum Museum of Decorative Museum of Museum 110 Museum Mucha Museum of the City of Military History Military Magic Garnet Museum Klausen Synagogue Synagogue Museum 37 Jewish Klausen Museum 110 Dvořák House of the Black Bertramka 120 Bertramka 133 Museum budget travel Choco-Story 79 Sarah Bernhardt Epic 45 Slavonic Municipal House 73, 75 museums 36–7 Town Art Gallery (Old 65 divadlo Stavovské Alfons Mucha, Museum 110 Mucha Vitus’s House 73 Municipal St of Marriage Marionette Bertramka 120 Bertramka Don 82 Malá Strana Marionette

Morzin Palace 86 Morzin Palace Moser 76 103 Moules Les Mozart, Wolfgang monuments, Communist Communist monuments, Monument to Victims of Victims to Monument 154 Index passports 126 St Vitus’s Cathedral12 CharlesBridge18 Chapelof All Saints11 Parléř, Peter 13 Wallenstein Garden 40, Vyšehrad Vojanovy40 Sady41,83 Stromovka 41,116 Střelecký Island41 SouthGardens8,41 Royal Gardens91 Prague Petřín Hill40 Castle Letná Park 115 KampaIsland40 Franciscan Garden31, parks andgardens40–41 parking 130 Pardubice Steeplechase Paneria 103 Paneláks 120 Palffy Palác 63,89 Palacký, Frantiček 107 Palackého náměstí107 Palach, Jan 31,120 Wallenstein Palace 86 Thun-Hohenstein ShoenbornPalace 86 Royal Palace 8,10–11 NostitzPalace 86 Palace Morzin 86 Michna Palace 86 Lobkowitz Palace 86 Lobkowicz Palace 8 Lichtenstein Palace 86 KaunitzPalace 86 Palace Golz-Kinský 15 Buquoy Palace 86 Palaces 86 Palác Lucerna31 Palác Koruna 31 Palác Akropolis 66,111 Pachtův Palace 138 P Our LadyBetween the II11,Otakar 41 I28,116Otakar Oppenheim, Rabbi David operetta 51 Garden 41 83 41, 105 68 Palace 86 Mangles 19 25 23, ben Abraham Royal Royal Prague Castle Přemyslid 115 dynasty Powder Gate73,75 Potrefená Husa122 136 services postal Postage Museum110 Stamp Poor Clares 28 Ponec 64 Police Museum 110 police 137 Plzeňská v restaurace Plunkett andMacleane 47 Plečnik, Josip 8 Platzer, Ignatz9 Pivovarský dům60 Pinkas Synagogue 39,101 pickpockets 129, 137 Picasso, Pablo 7 pharmacies 137 pets 130 Petřín Hill7, 32–3,40,81 Stavovské divadlo 65 Rudolﬁnum 65 Ponec 64 Palác Akropolis 64 Národní divadlo Národní LaternaMagika64 divadlo Divadlo NaZábradlí64 Divadlo Archa 64 Divadlo Alfred ve Dvoře Performing artsvenues pensions 145 Pension145 Vyšehrad Pension Klenor146 Pension Dientzenhofer 145 Pension Denisa145 Pension Cora145 Peklo 97 Le Patio (Restaurant)78 Le Patio 102 Pastička 122 Prague Castleand terraces Royal Gardens41 41 walks restaurants pubsandcafés97 96 map 90 6, Obecním domu63 Self-Portrait marionet 65 106, 107 64, (National Theatre) 64 64–5 Hradčany 90–7 8–11, 54,91,93 93 27 National Marionette Marionette Orpheuset Marionette Marriage of Marionette Don puppet shows 54 Puchner29 Altarpiece Prague Castleand Old Town New 78 MaláStrana88 Town 112 GreaterPrague 122 pubs PublicMuseum Transport La Provence 79 prostitution 129 Privat Pankrác 146 two-tiered129pricing, Pravda 62,101, 103 Prahabulletinboard 128 Prague Writers’Festival Prague Tribune 128, 136 Prague Spring Prague Spring(1968) 35, The Prague Post 128 Prague Organizationof Prague MunicipalGallery Prague Marriott 139 Prague Information P Reitman, Ivan 47 Reduta Jazz Club111 Red Room 111 The Red Lamb42 Rapoport, SolomonJudah Rana 123 rail travel 126 Radost FX66,67, 107, 111 Radnické schody 93 Radisson BLU Alcron 139 Radio Prague 128 radio 136 R rague Centrefor Further Theatre 65 Euridice 51 Figaro 51 Giovanni 50 Hradčany 96 37 69 Festival 68 International Music 49 Wheelchair-Users 134 37 128Service Education 135 Lieb 25 Index 155 Museum of 50 86 65, 101 101 38, 99, 101 101 100, 101 100, 31 47 Brewery 96 Brewery Shop 102 tipping, in restaurants 131 Instruments, Torture T 121 Gate 117, Tábor 68 Praha Tanec tax refunds 132 129 taxis 127, telephones 136 136 television 130 129, theft Master 29 Theodoricus, War 11 Thirty Years’ Fiddles 43 Three The Lilies 43 Three The Palace Thun-Hohenstein 39, Spanish Synagogue 39, Pinkas Synagogue 24, Synagogue Old-New 100, Maisel Synagogue swans, feeding 54 feeding swans, synagogues 99 High Synagogue 22, Klausen Synagogue Svěrák, Jan 47 Jan Svěrák, Zdeněk 47 Svěrák, balcony slovo Svobodné Strahov Stadium 32, 48 Strahov Madonna 28 Strakonice 68 Festival Theatre Street 117 41, 116, Stromovka 135 in Prague studying Stanislav 107 Sucharda, 16 Vojtech Sucharda, Eva and Jan Švankmajer, specialist shops 132 specialist 73 Karel Špillar, Stag Moat 92 48, 115 Stalin, Joseph 65 divadlo Stavovské Observatory 33 Štefánik’s Sternberg,Count 120 House 15 Štorch 41 Island Střelecký MonasteryStrahov 32, 33 Monastic Strahov The Spanish Synagogue Gift Gift Synagogue Spanish , 38, 65, 91, 93 45 39, 65, 82, 83 12–13 21 Loreto) 20, 21 135 51 112 64, 106 Theatre) International Music 68, 121 Festival Vltava 11 Palace) (Royal 65, 101 St Martin’s Rotunda 117 Rotunda St Martin’s 88 Café St Nicholas 15, Church St Nicholas’s 6, Cathedral Vitus’s St 30 Statue Wenceslas St 43 Horse Wenceslas’s St St Wilgifortis Altar (The Loreto) Santa Casa (The 86 Giovanni Santini-Aichel, 79 Sarah Bernhardt Sbratření 49 English-language schools, 137 security 130, Museum Machine Sex 46 Peter Shaffer, and Sons Shakespeare 86 Shoenborn Palace Shooter 46 The 56–7 shops and markets 102 Josefov 76 Town Malá Strana 87 Old shopping tips 132 Sidon, Efraim Karol 25 Sigismund (bell) 13 signs, house 42–3 69 Silvestr Hostel 144 Toby’s Sir skinheads 129 101 Škroup, Frantisek Reservoir 120 Slapy 78 Slavia Monument 121 Slavín 44 Smetana, Bedřich of 40, 121 grave (National Národní divadlo Spring Prague 115 Vyšehrad 115 Smíchov 137 smoking 131, 11 Prince Soběslav, Residence Soběslav Solidní nejistota 112 Restaurant-Grill 103 SOUL 39, Spanish Synagogue St John St John 10–11 27 27 , 65, 99, 101 Self-Portrait 25, 34, 35, 50 the Baptist 28–9 Palace) 10 Palace) Hradčany 97 Hradčany 131 97 Parlor Čertovka 88 Čertovka Parlor 113 Czech State69 Czech 100 Maisel Synagogue Castle 9 Prague 91 Gardens Royal 116 Stag Moat 92 Stromovka 53 tomb of 13 Werewolf 123 Baron Rudý Airport Ruzyně 126 Roxy 66, 77 Roxy Gardens 91 Royal Oratory 13 Royal 8, Palace Royal 36, 65 Rudolﬁnum II, Emperor 11, Rudolph Rotunda of St Martin 121 Rotunda Henri, Myself, Rousseau, St George’s Basilica 9, 65 Basilica St George’s 65 Wall St Martin in the St Agnes’s Convent 7, 7, Convent Agnes’s St S Ried, Benedict 10 Ried, Benedict 52 Říma, Bobeř boats 127 river 67 Café Rock Therapy Rock 50 112 O’Reilly’s Rocky Auguste, Rodin, Rezidence Lundborg 141 Lundborg Rezidence Staircase (RoyalRiders’ 123 Greater Prague 103 Josefov 113 Town 89 Malá Strana 79 New Town Old Castle and Prague Restaurant Loreta 93, 97 Restaurant Loreta Restaurant Voyta 123 restaurants 62–3 drinking tips eating and Restaurant nad Úvozem Úvozem Restaurant nad Restaurant and Beer Beer Restaurant and Residence Liliová 145 Liliová Residence 146 Řetěžová Residence Pomnikú Restaurace U Renewal of Independent of Independent Renewal 156 Index The UnbearableLightness Ultramarin 111 U Zlatéhotygra60 U ZlatéHrušky 97 U Zlatéstudny (Liliová) 140 U ZlatéStudně (Malá U zeleného Ňaje 88 U Vystřeleného Oka122 U tříPštrosů141 Kryžtofe76U rytire U Raka 145 U Pinkasů113 U Patrona 89 U medvídků140 U Matěje107, 113 U Maltézských 89 rytiřě U MaléhoGlena67 U Labutí96 U Kocoura 88 U Houdků123 U Holanu122 U Havrana 107, 112 U Fleků60,112 U Císařů 97 U Černéhovola 93,96 U Cedru 123 U Ševce Matouše97 U bíléhojablka87 U Tynská literámíkavárna 78 Týl, Oldřich 27 The Two Suns42 Turk inUngelt52 Troja Zoo120 Troja Chateau117, 120 Troja 116, 117 Trinitarian Order19 Tretter’s 60–1 Treasury (The Loreto) 21 Travellers’ Hostel144 travellers’ cheques 136 disabledvisitors134 budgettravel 133 travel 126–7 Trattoria Cicala113 re-routedtrams129 historictramno.9155 trams 127 trains 126 Třebon29 Altarpiece disabledvisitors134 tours 127, 133 Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri of Being 46 Strana) 62,138 27 de, At theMoulinRouge Universal 113 Ungelt 15, 74, 75 Wallenstein Palace 86 Wallenstein Garden40,83 Wallenstein, General Prague Castleand Old Town New 75 MaláStrana83 Town 107 Josefov 101 GreaterPrague 117 walks 127 Wagner, Richard 65 W Výstaviště 55,116, 117 Vyšsí Brod 29 Altarpiece Vyšehrad 40,53,115, 117, Vratislav II,Prince 121 Vratislav, Prince 9 Voyta Residence 146 Vojanovy Sady41,83 CharlesBridge6 boattrips55 Vltava, River Vladislav Hall(Royal St Vitus’s Cathedral12, Powder Gate73 Vladislav II,King11 VIVO Galerie88 Vitus, St12 visas 126 Vinohrady 115, 117 Viewing Gallery Vetešnictví 87 Velvet Revolution (1989) Velhartice29 Altarpiece vegetarian food 131 vegetables 132 VAT refunds132 Vánoce 69 Van Gogh, Vincent, Vagon 77 Václav 110 ŠpálaGallery Vachek, Karel47 V Zátiší62 V Ráji 87 V Lázních 88 V Albrecht von 35,40,86 Hradčany 93 121 Palace) 10 13 (Old Town Hall)17 35, 121 Green Wheat 27 writers 44–5 World War II35 Witch52 Tour Wilgifortis, St21 Oscar27 Wilde, White Tower54 The White Swan 42 Memorial White Mountain White Mountain, Werewolf 53 Wenceslas Square7, Wenceslas Chapel tombof13 Gothic Chapel Wenceslas IV, Emperor11, St Wenceslas’s St Wenceslas Statue 30 Horse St Vitus’s Cathedral12, assassination 34 Wenceslas, St11 Wenceslas, Prince 12 weather 126 Wax MuseumPraha 50 water, drinking137 Zvonařka 111 120Zoo, Troja hvězdaZlatá 112, 141 Zemach, Mordechai 23 Zemach, Bezalel 23 Zelenka, Petr 47 Zbraslav Madonna28 Zátopek, Emil35 Zahrada vopeře113 117Žižkov TVTower48, 117 116, Žižkov U Vystřeleného Oka122 MonumentofNational Žižka, Jan JanŽelivský, 31,105, 107 XT3 66-67 X, Y, Z 16 Battle of(1620) 16, 34 30–1 (St Vitus’s Cathedral)12 (Old Town Hall)16 35 43 38 Liberation 48,117 , 105, 107 Acknowledgements

Main Contributor For Dorling Kindersley Theodore Schwinke moved Publishing Manager to the Czech Republic from Marisa Renzullo Acknowledgements the United States in 1996. A Publisher former editor of The Prague Douglas Amrine Post, his current projects Senior Cartographic Editor include a children’s book on Casper Morris the 16th-century Danish DTP astronomer Tycho Brahe and Jason Little a book on St Gorazd of Production Melanie Dowland Prague. Picture Librarians Produced by Sargasso Hayley Smith, David Saldanha Media Ltd, London Maps Dominic Beddow, Simonetta Project Editor Giori (Draughtsman Ltd) Zoë Ross Art Editor Additional Editorial Assistance Philip Lord Emma Anacootee, Sherry Collins, Picture Research Michelle Crane, Integrated Rhiannon Furbear, Helen Stallion Publishing Solutions, Tomás Proofreader Kleisner, Maite Lantaron, Stewart J Wild Marianne Petrou, Filip Polonsky, Indexer Beth Potter, Quadrum Solutions, Hilary Bird Rada Radojicic, Ellen Root, Editorial Assistance Sands Publishing Solutions, Jakub Sverák Sadie Smith, Susana Smith, Leah Tether, Conrad van Dyk Main Photographer Picture Credits Nigel Hudson t-top, tl-top left; tlc-top left centre; tc-top centre; tr-top right; Additional Photography cla- centre left above; ca-centre Jiři Doležal, Jiři Kopřiva, above; cra-centre right above; Vladimìr Kozlik, František cl-centre left; c-centre; cr-centre Přeučil, Milan Posselt, right; clb-centre left below; Stanislav Tereba, Peter cb-centre below; crb-centre right Wilson below; bl-bottom left, b-bottom; bc-bottom centre; bcl-bottom Illustrator centre left; br-bottom right; chrisorr.com d-detail. 157 Every effort has been CZECH NEWS AGENCY: 4–5, 7t, made to trace the 52tc, 52tr, 55br, 68tl, 68tr, 68c, copyright holders of 69bl, 69r, 76tr, 91t, 115b, 116, images, and we apologize 117t, 122tr, 135tr; FORTEAN in advance for any PICTURE LIBRARY: 52tl; RUUD unintentional omissions. JONKERS: 47r; KAPLAN We would be pleased to PRODUCTIONS: 25, 35br, 45br, insert the appropriate 52b; Courtesy of THE KOBAL acknowledgements in any COLLECTION:Mandalay subsequent edition of this Entertainment 46b; Paramount publication. Pictures 46tl; Portobello Pictures/ Biograf Jan Sverak 46tr; Saul The publishers would like Zaenz Compnay 47tl; MECCA to thank the following CLUB: 66tr; NATIONAL GALLERY

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158 Phrase Book In an Emergency toilets toalety to-a-le-ti Help! Pomoc! po-mots free, unoccupied volný vol-nee Stop! Zastavte! zas-tav-te free, no charge zdarma zdar-ma Call a Zavolejte za-vo-ley-te doctor! dok-to-ra! Making a Telephone Call

doktora! Phrase Book Call an Zavolejte za-vo-ley-te I’d like to place a Chtěl(a)* bych khtyel(a) bikh ambulance! sanitku! sa-nit-ku! long-distance call volat vo-lat me-zi Call the Zavolejte za-vo-ley-te meziměstsky mye-stski police! policii! poli-tsi-yi! I’d like to make a Chtěl(a)* bych khtyel(a) bikh Call the fire Zavolejte za-vo-ley-te reverse-charge call volat na účet vo-lat na oo- brigade! hasiče ha-si-che volaného chet vo-la-neh-ho Where is the Kde je gde ye I’ll try again later Zkusím to sku-seem-to telephone? telefón? te-le-fohn? pozdějí poz-dyey the nearest nejbližší ney-blizh-shee Can I leave Mohu nechat mo-hu ne-khat hospital? nemocnice? ne-mo-tsnyi-tse? a message? zprávu? sprah-vu? Hold on Počkejte poch-key-te Communication Essentials local call místní hovor meest-nyee hovor Yes/No Ano/Ne ano/ne Please Prosím pro-seem Sightseeing Thank you Děkuji vám dye-ku-ji vahm art gallery galerie ga-le-ri-ye Excuse me Prosím vás pro-seem vahs bus stop autobusová au-to-bu-so-vah Hello Dobrý den do-bree den zastávka za-stah-vka Goodbye Na shledanou na shle-da-nou church kostel kos-tel Good evening Dobrý večer do-bree ve-cher garden zahrada za-hra-da morning ráno rah-no library knihovna knyi-hov-na afternoon odpoledne od-po-led-ne museum muzeum mu-ze-um evening večer ve-cher railway station nádraží nah-dra-zhee yesterday včera vche-ra tourist turistické tu-ris-tits-ke today dnes dnes information informace in-for-ma-tse tomorrow zítra zee-tra closed for the státní staht-nyee here tady ta-di public holiday svátek svah-tek there tam tam What? Co? tso? Shopping When? Kdy? gdi? How much does Co to stojí? tso to sto-yee? Why? Proč? proch? this cost? Where? Kde? gde? I would like … Chtěl(a)* bych … khtyel(a) bikh… Do you have …? Máte …? maa-te …? Useful Phrases I’m just looking Jenom se dívám ye-nom se How are you? Jak se máte? yak se mah-te? dyee-vahm Very well, Velmi dobře vel-mi do-brze Do you take Berete kreditní be-re-te kre-dit thank you. děkuji dye-ku-yi credit cards? karty? nye kar-ti? Pleased to Těší mě tye-shee mnye What time do V kolik v ko-lik meet you you open/ otevíráte/ o-te-vee-rah-te/ See you soon Uvidíme se brzy u-vi-dyee-me-se-brzy close? zavíráte? za-vee-rah-te? That’s fine To je v pořádku to ye vpo-rzhahdku this one tento ten-to Where is/are…? Kde je/jsou …? gde ye/ysou …? that one tamten tam-ten How long does Jak dlouho to trvá yak dlou-ho to tr-vah expensive drahý dra-hee it take to se dostat do…? se dos-tat …? cheap levný lev-nee get to…? size velikost ve-li-kost How do I get to…? Jak se dostanu k …? yak se dos-ta-nuk ..? white bílý bee-lee Do you speak Mluvíte anglicky? mlu-vee-te black černý cher-nee English? an-glits-ki? red červený cher-ve-nee I don’t understand Nerozumím ne-ro-zu-meem yellow žlutý zhlu-tee Could you speak Mohl(a)* byste mo-hl bys-te green zelený ze-le-nee more slowly? mluvit trochu mlu-vit tro-khu..? blue modrý mod-ree pomaleji? po-ma-ley? brown hnědý hnye-dee Pardon? Prosím? pro-seem? I’m lost Ztratil(a)* jsem se stra-tyil (a) ysem se Types of Shop antiques shop starožitnictví sta-ro-zhit-nyits-tvee Useful Words bank banka ban-ka big velký vel-kee bakery pekárna pe-kahr-na small malý ma-lee bookstore knihkupectví knih-ku-pets-tvee hot horký hor-kee butcher řeznictví rzhez-nyits-tvee cold studený stu-de-nee chemist lékárna leh-kahr-na good dobrý do-bree (prescriptions etc) bad špatný shpat-nee chemist drogerie drog-erye well dobře dob-rzhe (toiletries etc) open otevřeno o-tev-rzhe-no delicatessen lahůdky la-hood-ki closed zavřeno zav-rzhe-no department store obchodní dům op-khod-nyee left do leva do-le-va doom right do prava do-pra-va grocery potraviny po-tra-vi-ni straight on rovně rov-nye glass sklo sklo near blízko blees-ko market trh trh far daleko da-le-ko newsstand novinový stánek no-vi-no-vee up nahoru na-ho-ru stah-nek down dolů do-loo post office pošta posh-ta early brzy br-zi supermarket samoobsluha sa-mo-ob-slu-ha late pozdě poz-dye tobacconist tabák ta-bahk entrance vchod vkhod travel agency cestovní kancelář tses-tov-nyi exit východ vee-khod kan-tse-laarzh 159 Staying in a Hotel mléko mleh-ko milk Do you have a Máte volný pokoj? mah-te vol-nee mořská jídla morzh-skah yeed-la seafood vacant room? po-koy? ocet o-tset vinegar double room dvoulůžkový dvou-loozh-ko-vee okurka o-kur-ka cucumber pokoj po-koy olej oley oil with double bed s dvojitou postelí s dvoy-tou pos-te-lee párek paa-rek sausage twin room pokoj s dvěma po-koy sdvye-ma pečené petsh-en-eh baked postelemi pos-te-le-mi pečené pech-en-eh roast room with a bath pokoj s koupelnou po-koj s kou-pel-nou pepř peprzh pepper porter vrátný vraht-nee polévka po-lehv-ka soup I have a pomeranč po-me-ranch orange reservation Mám reservaci mahm rez-ervatsi pomerančový po-me-ran-ch-- orange juice džus o-vee dzhuus Eating Out pivo pi-vo beer Have you got a Máte stůl pro …? mah-te stool pro rajské rayskeh tomato table for …? …? ryba ri-ba fish I’d like to Chtěl(a)* bych khtyel(a) bikh rýže ree-zhe rice reserve a table rezervovat stůl re-zer-vo-vat stool salát sa-laat/sa-laht salad breakfast snídaně snyee-danye lunch oběd ob-yed sůl sool salt dinner večeře ve-che-rzhe sýr seer cheese Phrase Book The bill, please Prosím, účet pro-seem oo-chet šunka shun-ka ham I am a vegetarian Jsem ysem veghe- vařená/ va-rzhe-nah cooked vegetarián(ka)* tariahn(ka) uzená u-zenah smoked waitress! slečno slech-no telecí te-le-tsee veal waiter! pane vrchní! pane vrkh-nyee! vajíčko va-yeech-ko egg fixed-price menu standardní menu stan-dard-nyee vařené va-rzhe-neh boiled menu vepřové vep-rzho-veh pork dish of the day nabídka dne na-beed-ka dne voda vo-da water starter předkrm przhed-krm zelí zel-ee cabbage main course hlavní jídlo hlav-nyee yeed-lo zelenina ze-le-nyi-na vegetables vegetables zelenina ze-le-nyi-na zmrzlina zmrz-li-na ice cream dessert zákusek zah-kusek cover charge poplatek pop-la-tek Numbers wine list nápojový lístek nah-po-yo-vee 1 jedna yed-na lees-tek 2 dvě dvye rare (steak) krvavý kr-va-vee 3 tř trzhi medium středně strzhed-nye 4 čtyři chti-rzhi udělaný u-dye-la-nee 5 pět pyet well done dobrzhe- dobře 6 šest shest udělaný u-dye-la-nee 7 sedm sedm glass sklenice sklen-yitse 8 osm osm bottle láhev lah-hev 9 devět dev-yet knife nůž noozh 10 deset de-set fork vidlička vid-lich-ka 11 jedenáct ye-de-nahtst spoon lžíce lzhee-tse 12 dvanáct dva-nahtst Menu Decoder 13 třináct trzhi-nahtst biftek bif-tek steak 14 čtrnáct chtr-nahtst bílé víno bee-leh vee-no white wine 15 patnáct pat-nahtst bramborové bram-bo-ro-veh potato 16 šestnáct shest-nahtst knedlíky kne-dleeki dumplings 17 sedmnáct sedm-nahtst brambory bram-bo-ri potatoes 18 osmnáct osm-nahtst chléb khlehb bread 19 devatenáct de-va-te-nahtst cibule tsi-bu-le onion 20 dvacet dva-tset citrónový džus tsi-tron-o-vee dzhuus lemon juice 21 dvacet jedna dva-tset yed-na cukr tsukr sugar 22 dvacet dva dva-tset dva čaj chay tea 30 třicet trzhi-tset čerstvé ovoce cher-stveh-o-vo-ce fresh fruit 40 čtyřicet chti-rzhi-tset červené víno cher-ven-eh vee-no red wine 50 padesát pa-de-saht česnek ches-nek garlic 60 šedesát she-de-saht dort dort cake 70 sedmdesát sedm-de-saht fazole fa-zo-le beans 80 osmdesát osm-de-saht grilované gril-ov-a-neh grilled 90 devadesát de-va-de-saht houby ho-bi mushrooms 100 sto sto houska hous-ka roll 1,000 tisíc tyi-seets houskové ho-sko-veh bread 2,000 dva tisíce dva tyi-see-tse knedlíky kne-dleeki dumplings 5,000 pět tisíc pyet tyi-seets hovězí hov-ye-zee beef 1,000,000 milión mi-li-ohn hranolky hra-nol-ki chips husa hu-sa goose Time jablko ya-bl-ko apple one minute jedna minuta yed-na mi-nu-ta jahody ya-ho-di strawberries jehněčí ye-hnye-chee lamb one hour jedna hodina yed-na ho-dyi-na kachna kakh-na duck half an hour půl hodiny pool ho-dyi-ni kapr ka-pr carp day den den káva kah-va coffee week týden tee-den kuře ku-rzhe chicken Monday pondělí pon-dye-lee kyselé zelí kis-el-eh zel-ee sauerkraut Tuesday Úterý oo-te-ree maso ma-so meat Wednesday středa strzhe-da máslo mah-slo butter Thursday čtvrtek chtvr-tek minerálka mi-ne-rahl-ka mineral water Friday pátek pah-tek perlivá/ per-li-vah/ fizzy/ Saturday sobota so-bo-ta neperlivá ne-per-li-vah still Sunday neděle ned-yel-e 160