Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

PRAGUE ““InIn YourYour Pocket:Pocket: A cheeky,cheeky, wwell-ell- wwrittenritten sserieseries ooff gguidebooks.”uidebooks.” TThehe NNewew YYorkork TimesTimes

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Velvet Revolution The 20th anniversary

Czech Spas Relaxing all over the country

N°53 - 100 Kč www.inyourpocket.com Hotel Absolutum boutique hotel in

Hotel Absolutum is pleased to announce that pop and disco band BONEY M. was a VIP guest. For more information see www.absolutumhotel.cz

BONEY M.

Jablonského 639/4, 170 00 Praha 7 T:+420 222 541 406, F:+420 222 541 407 Email: [email protected] www.absolutumhotel.cz CONTENTS 5

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES www.inyourpocket.com

Contents

Arrival & Getting Around 8

Culture & Events 10 Theatre, Festivals

Velvet Revolution 15

Hotels - Where to stay 16 Whatever your budget or needs

Restaurants 24 Guláš to gourmet and everything in between

Cafés 40 Historical slices of Czech life with cake

Czech Spas 42 Relaxing all over the country

Georg Baselitz Through 6 December

Nightlife 54 Explore the depths of Prague’s bars and clubs Sightseeing Essential sights 64 The castle, the bridge, the clock Directory Shopping 74 Business 75 Lifestyle 76

Adult entertaiment 81 Maps & Index Street index 86 City centre map 87 City map 88-89 Index 90 © Ursula Schulz prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 6 FOREWORD

Autumn is a difficult time for the Prague In Your Pocket office. We are melancholy about the summer’s end; but In Your Pocket in a way looking forward to brisk days and colourful trees. Luckily the excitement and action that is Prague comes the place to be into full play these months, giving our minds something else to dwell on besides the passing of long summer evenings. There’s a plethora of new exhibits, shows and festivals on right now; check out what’s happening when you are in town starting on Page 12. for change. We are a nature loving country; especially when it comes to finding in said nature. Last year, Czechs collected 2.75 billion Czech crowns from the woods. That’s not in lost mon- ey; that’s the approximate value of crops picked in the wild vegetation. According to statistics, are number one and other forest fruits, like blueberries, raspberries, etc. follow. If you do want to try this Czech experience, take someone who knows what they are doing with you. There’s a saying – all mushrooms are good. Once. Two holidays in October and November give Czechs a welcome day off. October 28 is Czechoslovak Statehood Day. Strangely celebrating the founding of a country that no long exists; under Communism the holiday was called Nationalization Day and “celebrated” the transfer of private property to the state. Be- sides closure of shops and such, especially outside the centre, President Václav Klaus will most likely give a celebratory ad- dress and wreathes will be placed at memorials. November 17 is always Freedom and Democracy Day; but this year it’s also the 20th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution. Read our special feature on this momentous event on Page 15. Get out and enjoy the lovely Prague autumn; we’ll be there with you! Our team in is preparing a rather special In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with the Cover story 1150th aniversary of the city of Veliky Novgorod. Look out for a special supplement in our next Rus- On our cover we feature the sian guides and online at russia.inyourpocket. beautiful Baroque Valdštejnská com. Elsewhere, you can now get your hands zahrada or Wallenstein Gardens. on Sarajevo In Your Pocket when visiting the The bronze statues here aren’t Bosnian capital, and the same team - who have the originals; those were successfully pocketed Slovenia and Bosnia - are “borrowed” by the Swedes at now turning their attention to , and to Venice. the end of the Thirty Years War. Experience this oasis of calm in We welcome enquiries from anyone who would the heart of Malá Strana. like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send us an email at [email protected].

Editorial Copyright notice Editor Jacy Meyer Text and photos copyright PIYP s.r.o. Berlin – city of change. ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Contributors Jacy Meyer, 2000-2009. Maps copyright Wendy Wrangham, cartographer. All rights reserved. No part Twenty years after the came Jeroen van Marle of this publication may be reproduced down, the city still pulsates with in any form, except brief extracts for Prague In Your Pocket Layout & Design Tomáš Haman history, creativity, variety and Photos Jeroen van Marle, the purpose of review, without written V Jámě 1, Praha 1, 110 00 permission from the publisher and diversity like nowhere else on Tomáš Haman, Wendy Wrangham, copyright owner. The brand name In Your tel. +420 224 94 76 01 Ursula Schulz, Robin Divila Pocket is used under license from UAB earth. This is what makes Berlin fax +420 224 94 86 51 Cover: © Oleksandr Kolesnyk, In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, truly unique. [email protected] dreamstime.com Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). www.inyourpocket.com Sales & Circulation Editor’s note To find out more, visit ISSN 1213-2128 General Manager Michal Jareš The editorial content of In Your Pocket www.mauerfall09.de © PIYP s.r.o. guides is independent from paid-for Sales Representatives advertising. Sponsored listings are Klea Radeva - mob. 733 602 988 clearly marked as such. We welcome all Printed by Tisk Horák, [email protected] Ústí nad Labem readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure Published six times per year Michal Jareš - mob. 721 810 520 the accuracy of the information at the 20,000 copies [email protected] time of going to press and assume no Publisher Craig Turp responsibility for changes and errors. be open, be free, be berlin. www.be.berlin.de Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com 8 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT 9

There are two classes on international trains, and prices Arriving by Plane Public Transport vary according to length of journey and class; expect to pay CZ: A brief history Praha Ruzyně Airport, tel. (+420) 220 11 33 14, fax one third more for first class tickets. For multilingual, quick (+420) 235 35 09 22, www.csl.cz. Prague's airport is 20km Prague’s public transport system (Dopravní podnik) is and friendly service, avoid the queues at the hlavní nádraží 4th Century from the city centre. A taxi to the town centre now costs around efficient, fast and reasonably clean. With three metro counters and buy your ticket at Wasteels or at the CR agency. The present day Czech Republic was populated by Celts 600Kčeven if you call a company to pick you up or talk to one of lines, 26 tram routes and 9 night trams you won’t need and it was the Celtic Boii tribe who gave the country its the representatives from reputable AAA. Don't pick one up from the bus routes that avoid the centre. Keep in mind that Latin name, Boiohaemum (). outside the terminal (click here for taxi firms). Alternatively, use the centre of Prague is easily accessible on foot. Arriving by Bus 6th Century the ČEDAZ minibus service (tel. 220 11 42 96, 05:30 - 21:30) Florenc Bus Station J-3, Praha 8, Křižíkova 4, tel. The first Slavs travel from the east to the Prague area. that runs every half hour between the airport and Náměstí Tickets, valid for all means of transport, can be pur- (+420) 900 14 44 44, www.idos.cz. Most international 7th Century Republiky (F-2). Tickets cost 90Kč (including one piece of bag- chased from the numerous vending machines at all buses arrive at Prague's central Florenc bus station (Auto- According to legend a princess named Libuše marries gage, children under 10 free) and can be bought from the driver metro stations, major tram stops and news stands. busové nádraží Praha Florenc, open 05:00 - 23:00), which a ploughman and founds the Premysl dynasty. She or from the booth in the arrival terminal. For an extra fee, ČEDAZ You always need to validate your ticket yourself by is also the watering hole of several endemic species living prophesies that a great city will rise above the banks can also pick you up or drop you off at your hotel. stamping it in the machines at metro entrances and on solely on alcohol. For information on bus times inquire at of the Vltava. The cheapest way to get into town is on by bus: N°119 (2-8 trams. The most common ticket is the 26Kč transfer window N°8 (open 06:00 - 21:00). Alternatively, use the 10th Century times per hour between 04:18 and 00:10 with at least one ticket, which is valid for 75 minutes after validating (90 handy computer in front of window N°8 to search for your Václav I, misleadingly later to be called the Good King wheelchair-friendly bus per hour) runs between the airport and minutes between 22:00 and 05:00, on weekends and specific bus from the timetables online at the excellent Wenceslas in the Christmas carol, is murdered by his the Dejvická metro station (Line A, green) in about 20 minutes. public holidays). The 18Kč non-transfer ticket is meant www.idos.cz, which searches all forms of land transport. brother Boleslav. He becomes the country’s patron saint From Dejvická it is just five stops to Muzeum in the centre of for tram rides under 20 minutes with no changes, or in Window N°6 (open 05:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 19:00, Sun and his feast day is celebrated on 28 Sept. town. Bus N°100 whisks you to Zličín (metro Line B, yellow) the metro for up to 5 stations (changes allowed) from 09:00 - 19:30) sells tickets for the ever popular Czech 14th Century from the airport in 13 minutes. There is a new Airport Express the departure station within 30 minutes. We suggest National Express (Český Národní Expres) buses to Brno. In 1346 Charles IV is crowned King of Bohemia, and in (AE) bus from Holešovice which runs every half an hour, whiz- you save yourself time by buying a handful of these on The kiosk between window N°4 and 5 (open 07:00 - 18:00, 1348 he founds Charles University in Prague, the first zing you across the city in half an hour, whether you are arriving arrival. If you’re planning to stay a bit and explore, get the Sat 07:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:30 - 15:30) is an exchange office university in the Holy Roman Empire. Prague becomes the or departing. Special fares apply to this bus, tickets can only one-day pass (100Kč), a three-day pass (330Kč) or a and also sells public transport tickets, maps and guides. largest city in Europe, with 40,000-50,000 inhabitants. be bought from the driver and do not allow any transfers or five-day pass (500Kč). Children under 6 travel free; and The nearest ATM is at Florenc metro station, which is 15th Century other forms of transport. Tickets are 45/25Kč, dogs 25Kč tickets are half price up to 15 years old. Large pieces of next to the bus station. On 6 July, 1415 the protestant reformer Jan Hus is burnt and luggage is free. First & last buses from Holešovice 05:15 luggage (including rucksacks) cost an extra 13Kč while Eurolines J-3, Praha 8, Křižíkova 6 (Florenc bus station), at the stake. He becomes a martyr for the nationalist and & 21:45, from the airport 04:40 & 21:10. dogs ride the rails for 26Kč. Fines for no validated tickets tel. (+420) 224 21 86 80, www.bei.cz. The main European Protestant movement that adopts his name. A 26Kč transport ticket (plus a 18Kč one for big bags) will are 500Kč if paid on the spot or pay 1,000Kč later. bus operator. They also sell various travel passes. QOpen 16th Century get you all the way into town or to the airport on all public 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. In 1526 the Hapsburg Duke Ferdinand I is elected as transport except the Airport Express. Tickets can be bought The funicular railway and night tram tickets are 26Kč. King of Bohemia. The dynasty will rule the Czech lands at the friendly transport information desk in both arrival until 1918. (open 07:00 - 22:00) or from the coin-operated machine at Trams trundle around town Car rental 20th Century the airport bus stop, but not from the driver. You need to every few minutes; useful Avis I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 46, tel. (+420) 221 85 28 Oct, 1918 Following the defeat of and validate the ticket (once for the whole trip) in the machines lines are N°22 and 23 which 12 25, fax (+420) 221 85 12 29, www.avis.cz. QOpen , the Empire dissolves into several national states on board the bus. run from the centre up to 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. and, finally becomes an independent Prague's new Terminal North 2 will allow for at least 4 mil- the rear entrance of the Budget E-1, Praha 1, nám. Curierových 5 (InterConti- republic. Tomáš Masaryk becomes its first president. lion more passengers a year to travel into Prague with the castle, saving you the uphill nental Hotel), tel. (+420) 296 63 09 95, fax (+420) 222 15 Mar, 1939 The Wehrmacht invades and turns the ability to continue expansion. New bars, restaurants, shops walk. The metro connects 31 95 95, www.budget.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Airport Czech lands and Moravia into a protectorate, while Slo- and services ply their trade in this terminal which accom- the two main train stations office, tel. 220 11 32 53, open 08:00 - 22:00. Reservation vakia becomes an independent fascist state. modates flights to and from Schengen countries (Austria, and Florenc bus station to centre tel. 235 32 57 13. A 5 May, 1945 The Prague Uprising. Five thousand die in , , , , Germany, , Italy, the centre and runs up to Hertz H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nám. 15, tel. (+420) 225 34 four days of fierce fighting as the Czechs fight the Nazis , Luxembourg, , , , Greece, just after midnight, after 50 31, fax (+420) 225 34 50 39, www.hertz.cz. QOpen for the city. Prague is finally liberated by the Soviets. & ). which the night trams (the 08:00 - 20:00. Also at Praha 6, Evropská 15 (Diplomat Hotel), Feb 1948 Assisted by the Soviet Army, the Czech Com- There is a left luggage facilty at the airport which doesn't warm mobile home to many a smelly tramp) take over, tel. 225 34 50 41, open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat & Sun. munist party takes power. The country will remain under close and costs 60Kč per item per day. zipping in all directions from the Lazarská stop (H-5) Airport office tel. 225 34 50 21, open 08:00 - 22:00. the Soviet sphere of influence until 1989. every half hour. Tram information is on the red signs at Prague Spring 1968 Communist Party chairman Alex- each stop and is generally correct assuming of course ander Dubček makes efforts to establish “Socialism with Arriving by Train that some worn out Škoda hasn’t died on the tram lines. Taxis a human face”. This includes releasing political prisoners Prague has two main railway stations. Praha Hlavní nádraží AAA - Radiotaxi, tel. (+420) 222 33 32 22, www. and relaxing press censorship. His liberal ideals are (‘main station’, tel. 224 61 52 49) is architecturally fabulous (in Beware of Prague’s ultra-professional pickpockets, aaa-radiotaxi.cz. The most reputable company in town. brutally repressed by the invasion of Warsaw pact troops the Jugendstil tradition) although you won’t know it until you exit especially on trams N°22 and 23 and in busy metro cars; Ordering by SMS is possible at tel. 606 99 90 69 but requires on the night of 20 Aug, 1968. In protest at the invasion its underground nightmare. However massive reconstruction consider waiting for the next train if it looks squeezed. preregistration. 21 year old philosophy student Jan Palach sets himself has been going on, and if you’ve been here before you’ll see the Airport Cars P.O.Box 100, 160 08 Praha 6, tel. (+420) alight on the steps of the National Museum. obvious improvements. Ticket windows move randomnly, as do For more information visit Dopravní podnik’s excellent 220 11 38 92, www.airport-cars.cz. The silver cars with 19 Nov, 1989 The Velvet Revolution 200,000 people de- other services, so watch the signs. The work is scheduled to be website with English and German information on routes AVIS stickers waiting outside the airport arrivals charge mand democracy in a demonstration in Wenceslas Square. completed in 2010. There is a tourist office (open 09:00 - 19:00. and schedules, at www.dpp.cz, or call tel. 222 62 37 77. 650Kč for a ride to the city centre. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. As crowds swell, the government gives in, and in 1990 former dissident Václav Havel is elected head of state. Sat, Sun 09:00 - 16:00) in the centre of the lower hall of the two M Prague Airport Shuttle, www.prague-airport-shuttle. levels. For your best money exchange deal, use the ATM on the Travel Information Centre I-5,, Muzeum, tel. com. QN 31 Dec, 1992 Dubbed The Velvet Divorce, Czechoslo- far left of the lower hall. Train information can currently be found (+420) 296 19 18 17 (07:00 - 21:00), www.dpp.cz. Prague Airport Transfers, tel. (+420) 800 87 08 88, vakia divides into two independent states, Slovakia and in the lower left of the hall as well as to the left of the middle All you ever wanted to know about routes, tariffs, tickets, www.prague-airport-transfers.co.uk. the Czech Republic. passageway to the platforms. Left luggage (úschova) lockers timetables, re-routings and service disruptions, maps 21st Century are available. Getting to town involves one stop on the metro to and general information about Prague’s bus, tram and Aug 2002 Floods devastate the country and cause chaos Muzeum or a dangerous walk up busy Wilsonova. metro system from friendly, multi-lingual folk. Apart from Travel agencies and millions of crowns of damage as the Vltava rises. The second station, Praha Holešovice (tel. 224 61 58 65), is Qthe airport offices, these are found at the metro stations. Euroagentur Praha Praha 10, K Horkám 23, tel. 1 May, 2004 The Czech Republic joins the European Union. used by trains on the main Berlin - Prague - Vienna/Bratislava Open 07:00 - 21:00. Also at E-4, Můstek, Jungmannovo (+420) 271 09 08 31, fax (+420) 271 75 02 74, www. January-June 2009 Czech Republic holds the EU route. The small hall holds the ticket office (open 09:00 - 17:00, nám., open 07:00 - 18:00, closed Sat & Sun; Andĕl, open euroagentur.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. presidency. closed Sat, Sun), left luggage lockers, an internet café and 07:00 - 18:00, closed Sat & Sun; Prague Airport terminals Mary's Travel & Tourist Services J-5, Praha 2, Italská November 2009 Country celebrates 20 years post- several exchange and accommodation offices (open 06:00 - 1 & 2, open 07:00 - 22:00. 31, tel. (+420) 222 25 40 07, www.marys.cz.QOpen Communism. 23:00). It is three stops on the metro to Muzeum. 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 10 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 11

Prague is something of a cultural Mecca, and not just be- Palace Theatre I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43, cause of the affordable tickets. There was always a lively MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 22 88 14, www.palacethe- tradition here (Mozart was celebrated as a hero in Prague atre.cz. Tickets 140 - 340Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00. while shunned in Vienna), and the influx of culture-hungry Ta Fantastika D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 8, MStaroměstská, tourists in the past decade has led to an enormous variety tel. (+420) 222 22 13 66, www.tafantastika.cz. Tickets Radlická 3179/1E, Praha 5 - Smíchov of concerts. Tickets are best and easiest booked via the 700Kč. Q Performances start at 21:30. ticket agencies. Remember, going to the theatre or opera WOW Show (Theater Blanik) I-4, Praha 1, Vaclavske is still something of an event in Prague, and it’s courteous namesti 56, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 03 21 72, info@ to dress up when visiting. wow-show.com, www.wow-show.com. Tickets 550Kč. Q Performances start at 20:00. Black Light Theatre A Prague speciality; fluorescent mime actors and puppets Cinema moving in front of a black background. Great for children, Multiplex cinemas are big business, although the smaller, Village Gold Class Cinemas You‘re ushered into your and for adults too. older independents survive on their quirky, less Hollywood- are the top, the ultimate, seats complete with a private dictated programmes and cheaper tickets. Village, Palace the very best cinemas table by your side. The lights All Colours Theatre E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská and City Cinemas are the more expensive multiplexes (159 • 14 cinemas • Modern • Comfortable 31, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 221 61 01 73, www. - 199Kč) although there is discount Monday, Tuesday & • Parking art cinema cinema you‘ll ever experience. dim, and the fi lm begins... blacktheatre.cz. Tickets 450Kč. Q Performances Wednesday, with tickets for 109Kč - see below for details. start at 20:30. Czech and other non-English language films are not usually Animato F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10, MMůstek, tel. subtitled in English, but we do have access to more titles now. (+420) 281 93 26 65, www.volny.cz/black.theatre. English language films are usually subtitled, except kids’ films Tickets 430Kč. Q Performances start at 20:30. which are dubbed. For listings see www.expats.cz. Image Black Theatre E-1, Praha 1, Pařížská 4, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 44 58, www. Aero Praha 3, Biskupcova 31, tel. (+420) 271 77 13 49, imagetheatre.cz. Tickets 480Kč. Q Performances start www.kinoaero.cz. A cool little arthouse cinema in Žižkov; at 20:00. tram N°9 to Biskupcova. Q Tickets 40 - 95Kč. Jiří Srnec Black Light Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní Cinema City Flóra Praha 3, Vinohradská 149, MFlóra, 20, tel. (+420) 721 58 92 44, www.blacktheatresrnec. tel. (+420) 255 74 20 21, www.cinemacity.cz. Includes cz. Tickets 520Kč. Q Performances start at 19:30. an IMAX theatre. Q Tickets 159Kč, Tue 109Kč. Also at Metro Theatre D-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 25, Galaxie, Arkalycká 1; Zličín, Řevnická 1. MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 221 08 52 76, www. Lucerna I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, MMůstek, tel. blacktheatreprague.cz. Tickets 440Kč. The performance (+420) 224 21 69 72, www.multikino.cz. Apparently villagecinemas.cz goldclass.cz is followed by a workshop and lasts about 80 minutes. Q the longest-running cinema in Prague with Czech and English Performances start at 20:00. language films. A classic.

Palace Cinemas Slovanský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na dressed-up people selling tickets for the ‘best of Mozart’-type Museum Kampa Příkopě 22, tel. (+420) 257 18 12 12, www.palaceci- shows, which can be great as they’re usually well performed, nemas.cz. Popular city-centre multiplex, which is often the and good for children too as they’re not too long. Q Booking ZDENĚK SÝKORA Museum Kampa is a unique cultural conglomeration for only cinema with English language versions of films other office open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 200 - 1,300Kč. Prague. Their focus is Central European art showcased cinemas show dubbed. Q Tickets 159Kč, Wed 109Kč. Also State Opera I-4, Praha 1, Wilsonova 4, tel. (+420) 224 through both their permanent collection and temporary at Letňany, Veselská 663; Nový Smíchov, Plzeňská 8; Park 22 72 66, www.opera.cz. A fabulous neo-Rococo pile quite KAREL MALICH exhibits. The permanent collections include works by Hostivař, Švehlova 32. unfortunately wedged between the station, National Museum František Kupka and Otto Gutfreund, while currently on Ponrepo D-4, Praha 1, Bartolomějská 11, MNárodní and two busy roads. Built in 1888 for Prague’s German LINES is Zdeněk Sýkora and Karel Malich - Lines and Wires: A třída, tel. (+420) 224 23 32 81, www.sweb.cz/mjos/ Theatre Association, it is worth a visit for the glamorous Dialogue. The exhibit is based on the evolution of both ponrepo/index.html. The official theatre of the National Film gold-and-plush interior and the view of the sumptuous artists over the past 20 years. For each painting by Archive and membership can be bought from 14.00 - 18.00 alone. Operas are usually performed in the original language, AND Sýkora there will be a “wired object” by Malich. Mon - Fri for 150/100Kč. with Czech or English subtitles projected above the stage. Světozor I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 41, MMůstek, tel. For tours of the building, contact Prague’s tourist office. Q The museum is housed in a 10th century flour mill called (+420) 224 94 75 66, www.kinosvetozor.cz. An arthouse Booking office open 10:00 - 17:30; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:00, WIRES Sova’s Mills that has served a wide range of interests before cinema showing classic, current and less mainstream movies, 13:00 - 17:30. Tickets 100 - 1,150Kč. finally settling on being a museum in 2003. The mill, situated plus Czech movies with English subtitles. Q Tickets 100/50Kč. Stavovské divadlo (Estates Theatre) E-3, Praha 1, on the Vltava River near Charles Bridge, has always been a Village Cinemas Anděl Praha 5, Radlická 1E, MAnděl, Ovocný trh 1, tel. (+420) 224 22 85 03, www.narodni-di- A DIALOGUE dominate aspect of the riverbank and architects carefully tel. (+420) 251 11 51 11, www.villagecinemas.cz. An- vadlo.cz. The first theatre to be built in Prague, and it was also reconstructed the historic building. The museum is due other cinema complex, this one has an European art house here that Mozart’s Don Giovanni made its debut to a rapturous in large part to the generous art donation from Jan and cinema and Gold Class, where you sit in armchairs and can Czech audience; the opera was destined to bomb in Vienna. OCTOBER 2, 2009 Meda Mládek, who donated their collection of more than eat and drink to your heart’s content. Q Tickets 159Kč, Mon Q Booking office open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 30 - 1,000Kč. 700 pieces to the City of Prague in order for it to be prop- 109Kč. Also at Village Cinemas Černý most. Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Křižovnická 2, tel. (+420) JANUARY 10, 2010 erly displayed, cared for and seen. What makes Museum 221 66 32 60, www.klementinum.cz. The beautiful build- Kampa a cultural meeting point is their educational arm ing is home to some good classical music concerts in sublime which offers lectures (often in English or with translation Concerts & Opera grounds. Plus now, the Codex Gigas or Devil’s Bible is on assistance available) and workshops for kids. The architecture is superb, but be sure to catch this as- show until Jan 6, 2008. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. pect that has added to Prague’s fame, her music. Mozart Performances start at 18:00 unless otherwise specified. Museum Kampa, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2, 257 wasn’t wrong to embrace Prague as fervently as Prague Karlín Music Theatre Praha 8, Křižíkova 10, tel. 28 61 47, www.museumkampa.cz. Admission prices: embraced Mozart. (+420) 221 86 87 77, [email protected], www.hdk.cz. Short-term exhibitions & permanent displays: 160 Kč; The theatre has a long history in the city; its first performance Museum Kampa – Jan and Meda Mladek Foundation Sýkora - Malich exhibition: 80 Kč; Permanent exhibition Municipal House F-3, Praha 1, Nám. Republiky 5, tel. was the circus back in 1881. Fast forward to the floods of U Sovových mlýnů 503/2, 118 00 Praha 1 of Central European art; Kupka and Gutfreund: 120 Kč. (+420) 222 00 21 21, www.obecni-dum.cz. Housing a 2002 which saw the historic building practically destroyed. www.museumkampa.cz Open daily 10:00-18:00. variety of halls, the stunning Art Nouveau Obecní dům is the The theatre reopened in 2006 and has been hosting a string venue for many classical concerts. Outside, you’ll always find of popular musicals ever since. Q 230-700 Kč.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 12 CULTURE & EVENTS CULTURE & EVENTS 13

Puppet theatre www.inyourpocket.com Happenings New National Museum Building Prague is famous for puppets, and these shows make a Strings of Autumn Music Festival great night out as language is not usually a barrier. Until 20 November In August, the National Museum opened a new building; right next door to their current digs at the top of Václavské Divadlo Minor I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 6, tel. (+420) The Duncan Centre Conservatory Praha 4, Branická náměstí. What was originally built to house the Federal 222 23 17 02, www.minor.cz. Tickets 30-80Kč. QOpen 41, tel. (+420) 244 46 13 42, www.duncanct.cz. Con- Parliament in 1966 became the home of Radio Free 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 20:00. temporary dance theatre and school. Europe/Radio Liberty in 1993. Barricades and security Říše loutek D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká 1, tel. (+420) 222 guards were a constant presence; but now that RFE/ 32 45 65, www.riseloutek.cz. RL has moved to new digs in Prague 10, the space is National Marionette Theatre D-2, Praha 1, Žatecká Exhibits opened up and free (mainly to traffic.) It’s quite a contrast 1, tel. (+420) 224 81 93 22, www.mozart.cz. Jan Šerých: Ano to its 19th century sister building, the massive icon of Through 8 November Prague. You can see this important bit of Czech history This young Prague conceptual artist puts on a one-man and architecture thanks to guided tours currently running Theatre show at the Hall. Known for his blurring of all day, every day. They are in Czech but most of the Divadlo Alfred ve dvoře I-1, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 36, geometric tendencies, his work is an abstract construction guides should speak English, and an English audio guide tel. (+420) 233 37 69 97, www.alfredvedvore.cz. A of symmetrical typographic shapes. This exhibit is being is available as well (included in the admission price.) The small theatre specialising in moving, visual and experimental described as “mathematical sets made up of elements museum shop and café is partially furnished with original theatre and dance, with several performances that can be of emotion.” Parliament furniture, so sit back with a cuppa and state enjoyed by non-Czech speakers. Ticket office and bar opens Where? City Gallery Prague, , Praha 1, a new law. Currently, the building is nameless; it’s being an hour before each performance.Q All performances are at Staroměstské náměstí 1, 224 48 27 51, www.ghmp.cz. referred to either as the former Federal Parliament 20:00 unless specified otherwise. Advance bookings at Praha Closed Mondays. building or the new National Museum building. However, 1, Celetná 17; BIO OKO Bar, Praha 7, Fr. Křížka 15 & Praha 2, excitement is in the air, as the naming of the new building Polí pět, Dittrichova 13. Tickets 150/90Kč. Georg Baselitz was left up to public suggestions. Museum officials said Divadlo Archa J-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26, tel. (+420) Through 6 December they had received more than 600 proposals, but haven’t 221 71 61 11, fax (+420) 221 716 666, www.archa- Experimental German painter Georg Baselitz’s work can chosen one yet. Supposedly, the “finalists” will also be theatre.cz. Affectionately known as the “alternative be seen in the fabulous Rudolfinum space right now. His chosen by the public and the new moniker is set to be National Theatre,” Archa has done wonders for Prague’s compositions are curious; and this exhibition displays a wide Jazz & classics; traditional & experimental; you’ll find revealed in November. cultural scene. It’s not necessarily an “English” theatre, view of his work from 1960-2008. A changing perception, it all at this diverse festival. Organisers strive to bring Where? Vinohradská 1, Praha 1, 224 497 430, www. however their eclectic line-up often transcends language while attempting to hold on to reality is evident in this together seemingly incompatible musical styles, and it nm.cz barriers. Check their website - you never know what ad- painter’s style. His creativity of style and technique breathes always works out well. The festival began as a series Guided Tours: The museum is open daily from 10:00- ditional items of interest, including concerts, they’ll have new life into the art of “painting.” of programmes back in 1996 and has since grown 18:00. On Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, tours are on tap. All shows at 20:00 unless otherwise listed Q Where? Galerie Rudulfinum, Praha 1, Alšovo nábřeží 12, to be a major festival on the city’s cultural calendar. held every 30 minutes; Monday-Friday tours are every Performances start at 20:00 unless stated otherwise. 227 059 205, www.galerierudolfinum.cz. Closed Mondays Strings of Autumn often commissions new work and hour. You can reserve a spot for an 11:00 or 15:00 PTAEGKW with their three themes being “Inspiration,” “Crossover” tour only, by phoning or emailing at least three days Divadlo Hybernia F-3, Praha 1, nám. Republiky 4, tel. Entropa and “Luminaries” all attendees are sure to discover in advance: 224 49 74 30, [email protected]. Cost (+420) 221 41 94 12, www.divadlo-broadway.cz. Dat- Through 4 January something rousing this season. Tickets can be bought is 80 Kč. ing back to the reign of Charles IV, this building was recently The art exhibit that sent shock waves through Brussels online at the festival’s website, www.strunypodzimu. refurbished and now provides a home to Golem, a musical during the Czech Republic’s European Union presidency is cz, or in person at the National Theatre’s ticket office, of the Jewish legend, which plays daily with English subtitles. now on display in Prague. Local bad boy David Černý is known Praha 1, Ostrovní 1, 224 901 247. Book in advance; they Belgium as well as performances from , Mali and NB Rows 1-6 & 32-33 are not good for viewing the subtitles. for his controversial art displays, so it should have come as sell out quickly. . For specific shows and more information, Q Tickets 599 - 799Kč. Box office open 10:00 - 02:00. Per- no surprise when he revealed this installation. Supposedly Venues: Czech Museum of Music, Praha 1, Karmelitská visit www.ctyridny.cz. formances at 19:00. 15:00 & 19:00 Sat & 15:00 Sun. PA designed by 27 artists, each representing an EU country, and 2; Rudolfinum, Praha 1, Alšovo nábřeží 12; Prague Where? Five venues: Divadlo Archa, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 26, Divadlo na Prádle B-4, Praha 1, Besední 3, tel. (+420) meant to challenge the stereotypes associated with each Crossroads, Praha 1, Liliová entrance is from Zlatá street; archatheatre.cz; La Fabrika, Praha 7, Komunardů 30, lafabrika.cz, 257 32 04 21, www.napradle.cz.. Small theatre space with particular country; it was actually conceived by Černý and Estates Theatre, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 1; La Fabrika, Praha Alfred ve dvoře theatre, Praha 7, Františka Křížka 36, alfredvedvore. rather good cafe that hosts the Prague Fringe and others. some of his friends. The problem? Some of the countries 7, Komunardů 30, Trade Fair Palace, Cinema ARTminus, cz, Former Federal Parliament building, Praha 1, Vinohradská 1, Divadlo Ponec Praha 3, Husitská 24, tel. (+420) 222 took offense as to how their state was portrayed, including Praha 7, Dukelských hrdinů 47. For more information visit www.nm.cz and Hala Alta, Praha 7, U Výstaviště 23. 72 15 31, www.divadloponec.cz. Bulgaria, whose portion of the exhibit was covered during www.strunypodzimu.cz. Laterna Magika C-4, Praha 1, Národní 4, tel. (+420) the installation’s stay in Brussels. Go see for yourself if it Guitar Across Styles 222 22 20 41, www.laterna.cz. Laterna Magika developed was worth all the fuss. 8 October: Echoes of Home; Czech Museum of Music, 19:30 18 October – 28 November a new way of combining theatre, dance, music and film for Where? DOX Centre for Contemporary Art, Praha 7, 15 October: Ondřej Pivec; La Fabrika, 19:30 An International Acoustic Guitar Festival – in its 12th year in the 1958 Brussels Expo, and was doing multi-media perfor- Poupětova 1, 774 14 54 34, www.doxprague.org. Closed 21 October: Gil Shaham; Prague Crossroads; 19:30 Prague! Had no idea, did ya? Well, strummin’ fans; this one mances before the word even existed. All productions are Tuesdays. 31 October: Cassandra Wilson; Rudolfinum; 19:30 is definitely for you: all genres, played on all acoustic guitars; visually orientated with no spoken Czech - ideal for foreigners. 4 November: Enoch Arden performed by Michael York & Libor by guitarists from all over the world. There’s no one venue; Q Performances start at 20:00. Tickets 735Kč. Nováček; Rudolfinum; 19:30 concerts are scattered in venues around Prague and indeed National Theatre C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 2, tel. Tickets 10 November: 415 versus 422; Rudolfinum; 19:30 the country. But for a different evening of musical enjoyment, (+420) 224 90 16 68, www.narodni-divadlo.cz. Prague’s 15 November: Astillero Tango; Estates Theatre; 19:30 this is definitely your best bet. most beautiful riverside building hosts a wealth of perfor- Bohemia Ticket International F-3, Praha 1, Na 20 November: Ludovico Einaudi; Rudolfinum; 19:30 Where? Concert halls across the city; check www. mances, mostly concerts and opera. Find theQ booking office Příkopě 16, tel. 224 21 50 31, www.ticketsbti.cz. kytaranapriczanry.cz for more details or email: standa. in the modernist glass building next door. Booking office QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - Four Days in Motion International Theatre Festival [email protected]. open 10:00 - 18:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 12:30, 15:00 - 18:30. 15:00. Also at (E-3) Praha 1, Malé nám. A 9-16 October Švandovo divadlo Praha 5, Štefánikova 57, tel. (+420) Ticket Art I-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 9, tel. 222 Now in its 14th year, Four Days in Motion presents Prague Accordion Days 234 65 11 11, www.svandovodivadlo.cz. Local and 89 75 52, www.ticket-art.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, contemporary and innovative theatre projects with 29 October – 1 November international plays, both classic and contemporary; always Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. theatre troupes from around the world. Known not only Guitars not your style? No worries; the international festival something interesting going on at Švandovo. They offer Ticketpro E-3, Praha 1, Rytířská 12, tel. 296 32 99 for their theatre work but also the unique locales where for harmonica and accordion ensembles and orchestras English subtitles on screens above the stage, so your best 99, www.ticketpro.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. A they choose to show that work (think former sewage plant is playing this month too! Amateur ensembles, orchestras, bet are seats in the balcony. We’ve listed the plays going on Ticketstream I-6, Praha 2, Koubkova 8, tel. 224 26 one year, factory another year); this year they’ve added accordion and harmonica friends from around the world are in February, but visit their website for other dramatic and 30 49, www.ticketstream.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. the former Parliament Building to the list. Four Days in here to entertain. occasionally musical interests. All shows at 19:00 unless Closed Sun. A Motion is an anything goes avant-garde mess of a week. Where? Concert halls across the city; check www.accordion. otherwise listed. We love it! This year you can experience a pop opera from cz for more details or email: [email protected].

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 14 CULTURE & EVENTS VELVET REVOLUTION 15

This November marks member, Karel Urbánek was elected the new Communist www.inyourpocket.com Sports the 20th anniversary of Party leader. This didn’t sit well with the general public who Czechoslovakia’s Velvet didn’t see the change as true reform but merely a placation. Revolution. Following the lead Jerry Lee Lewis Football of their Eastern European November 25 and 26 saw a massive demonstration of 750,000 9 November Well, it is off to a slow start for our first league Prague neighbours, citizens people at Letná Park in Prague followed by the general strike Shake, rattle and roll, people! Mr. Jerry Lee Lewis will teams. Slavia is doing the best at third, while Sparta is peacefully protested against on November 27. These two acts were devastating to the be thumpin’ the keys in Prague tonight. Tickets can be languishing down in seventh. Newly promoted Bohemians the Communist regime, and Communist regime. Prime Minister Ladislav Adamec held talks purchased through Ticketportal, www.ticketportal.cz. Show 1905? Well, let’s just say – the season is young! Winter successfully removed them When – if not now? with Václav Havel who submitted a list of Civic Forum demands. starts at 19:00. break begins in December, so that’s a good two months from power. Who – if not us? At their second meeting, Adamec agreed to form a new coalition Where? Tesla Arena, Praha 7, Za Elektrárnou 419, www. to get into form. Tickets can usually be bought day of; government. In addition the Constitution was to be amended tesla-arena.cz walk up, walk in and enjoy! The easing up of Communist policies actually came from the through the deleting of three articles: guarantee of a leading then-Soviet Union in the late ‘80s. Mikhail Gorbachev was role in political life for the Czechoslovak Communist Party and Tom Jones Sparta AXA Aréna, Praha 7, Milady Horákové 98, president, and he was introducing reforms in his own country. for the National Front, and the directive of a Marxist-Leninist 10 November www.sparta.cz Unfortunately for the Czechoslovakians, Gustav Husák, who education. These changes were unanimously approved by the 17 October: vs. SK Dynamo Č. Budějovice, 18:00 came to power following the Prague Spring uprising in 1968, Communist parliament on November 29. 31 October: vs. FC Baník Ostrava, 18:00 continued to push harsh Communist propaganda. By 1988, 14 November: vs. FC Slovan Liberec, 18:00 there were regular protests demanding change. These initial allowances led to an increase in demands by the people. A new government was formed by Marian Čalfa which included Bohemians 1905 Ďolíček stadión, Praha 10, What’s come to be known as the Velvet Revolution occurred only nine members of the Czechoslovak Communist Party, several Vršovická 31, www.fc-bohemians.cz over a six week period from November 17 to December of whom had cooperated with the Civic Forum. The rest of the 18 October: vs. FC Slovácko, 17:00 29, 1989. November 17 was already an important date government was made up of two members from the Czechoslovak 1 November: vs. Slovan Liberec, 17:00 in Czechoslovak history. Fifty years ago, students held a Socialist Party; two from the Czechoslovak People’s Party and seven 8 November: vs. Příbram, 17:00 demonstration protesting the Nazi regime. Students again ministers with no previous party affiliation, all of whom were either 22 November: vs. Sparta Praha, 17:00 took to the streets, this time in protest of a different oppressive members of the Civic Forum or Public Against Violence. President government. The protest began as a legal rally, but soon turned Husák named this new government on December 10 and later that FK Viktoria Žižkov Stadión Viktorky, Praha 3, into a demonstration demanding democratic reforms. Students day went on television to announce his resignation. Seifertova, www.fkvz.cz marching from the Czech National Cemetery in Vyšehrad to 4 October: vs. FC Graffin Vlašim, 10:15 Václavské náměstí were stopped by riot police at Národní Political events moved swiftly; the parliament elected Václav 25 October: vs. FK Baník Sokolov, 10:15 třída. In the ensuing stand-off, students offered flowers instead Havel president on December 11 and he was elected by the 8 November: vs. Slezský FC Opava, 10:15 of resistance to the officers, but the police responded with people in July 1990. beatings. Nearly 170 students were injured that day. At the Slávia Stadión Eden, Praha 10, Vladivostocká 10, time, one student was reportedly beaten to death, a rumour Wow – if you are in town this week how much more lucky www.slavia.cz which proved to be false. That “death” however served to Velvet Revolution Anniversary Events could you be? Back to back shows of Jerry Lee Lewis and 4 October: vs. Sparta Praha, 17:00 mobilize support for the students and their demands amongst 20 Years Without the Curtain Tom Jones! Pardon us while we take a deep breath and get 25 October: vs. SK Sigma Olomouc, 17:00 the general public. In another blow to the government’s control, 17th November prepared to toss our undies. Show starts at 20:00; tickets 8 November: vs. FC Viktoria Plzen, 17:00 a number of worker’s unions also took up the students’ cause. This free event open to the public will commemorate the can be purchased via email at [email protected]. 22 November: vs. FC Brno, 17:00 1989 student march from Albertov to Národní třída. The Where? O2 Arena, Praha 9, Ocelářská Street No. 460/2, Mass demonstrations were held in Prague, Bratislava and programme includes an afternoon procession, memorial www.o2arena.cz Ice Hockey others cities around the country from November 18 – 27, when a service and a concert by young Czech artists. Sparta Tesla Arena, Praha 7, Za Elektrárnou 419, general strike was called. In theatres, instead of performances, www.hcsparta.cz people gathered for public discussions. It was one of these That Time in the East English Theatres 2 October: vs. Kladno, 18:00 discussions on November 19, at Prague’s Činoherní Klub that From 28 October 9 October: vs. Vítkovice, 18:00 the Civic Forum was founded. It was established as the “official Wondering how folks lived during Communism? This exhibit Švandovo divadlo, Praha 5, Štefánikova 57, www. 16 October: vs. Kometa Brno, 18:00 spokesgroup for the segment of the Czechoslovak public which aims to show the lives of ordinary people in Czechoslovakia svandovodivadlo.cz 18 October: vs. Slavia, 18:10 is ever more critical of the policy of the present Czechoslovak from 1948 - 1989. All listed shows are in Czech with English subtitles. The 25 October: vs. Zlín, 17:00 leadership.” The Civic Forum was led by Václav Havel, later to Where? Stone Bell House, Praha 1, Staroměstské náměstí subtitles are printed on a screen above the stage so 1 November: vs. Třinec, 17:00 become the country’s first democratically elected president. 13, 224 82 75 26, www.ghmp.cz. Closed Mondays. sit in the balcony for the best view. Showtime is 19:00. 13 November: vs. Litvínov, 18:00 1, 31 October: Much Ado About Nothing 17 November: vs. Plzeň, 18:00 The group’s first demands were the resignation of the Be Free 2, 29 October: Elton John’s Glasses 20 November: vs. Č. Budějovice, 18:00 Communist government, release of prisoners of conscience From 17 November 5, 7, 17, October: The Boss of it All and an investigation into the police action that had occurred An exhibition commemorating November 17, the 20th 9, 27 October: Casanova in the Spa Slavia O2 Arena, Praha 9, Ocelářská 2, www. on November 17. In the Slovak part of the country a similar anniversary of the fall of the iron curtain as well as events 10, 21 October: A Month in the Country hc-slavia.cz action was taking place – the founding of the Public Against from the 1950s to 1990s. 12 October: The Beggar’s Opera 4 October: vs. Zlín, 17:00 Violence group. Both groups immediately saw citizens joining Where? National Museum, Praha 1, Václavské náměstí 68, 14 October: The School for Wives 6 October: vs. Mladá Boleslav, 18:15 en masse; and not just students. Factory workers, university 224 49 71 11, www.nm.cz 19 October: Masquerade 11 October: vs. , 17:00 staff and employees of a variety of other institutions were 23 October: The Mandrake 20 October: vs. Č. Budějovice, 18:15 getting involved in the cause. It took about two weeks for After Velvet 23 October: vs. Kladno, 18:15 the country’s media to begin broadcasting reports of what From November 17 Karlín Music Theatre 1 November: vs. Vítkovice, 17:00 was really going on in Prague, but in the meantime, students A new permanent exhibition at the Golden Ring House will Praha 8, Křižíkova 10, 221 86 86 66, www.hdk.cz 22 November: vs. Mladá Boleslav, 17:00 began travelling to smaller cities and towns to rally support. attempt to reflect on social, cultural and economic changes Musicals with English subtitles. Carmen shows at 19:00; 24 November: vs. Třinec, 18:15 that have taken place in the Czech Republic since 1989. Polish Blood at 15:00. Despite the fact that their neighbouring Communist countries Several artistic generations (both artists working before 1, 2, 37, 8, 9, 10, 14, 15, 16, 17, 21, 22, 23, 24, 29, 30, had been seeing unrest and protests for some time, the 1989, as well as young artists that entered the scene post- 31 October: Carmen Czechoslovak government was totally unprepared for the revolution) will display their views on this theme. 4, 11, 18, 25 October: Polish Blood up swell of public support for the students’ cause. As mass Where? Golden Ring House, Praha 1, Týnská street 6, 224 1, 8, 15, 22, 29 November: Polish Blood demonstrations continued and more and more people 82 70 22, www.ghmp.cz. Closed Mondays 4, 5, 6, 7, 11, 12, 13, 14, 18, 19, 20, 21, 25, 26, 27, 28 www.inyourpocket.com supported the general strikes that were being called, an November: Carmen extraordinary session of the Czechoslovak Communist Party Interested in visiting some of the important Velvet Revolution was called. The Presidium resigned, and a relatively unknown sites? Read our Pocket Watch on Page 31.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 16 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 17

Prague has a long tradition of hospitality having hosted Hilton Prague J-2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc, tel. generations of travellers, thinkers and invading armies. Symbol key (+420) 224 84 11 11, fax (+420) 224 84 23 78, sales. However, to the modern guest this may not be immediately P A [email protected], www.prague.hilton.com. Easily apparent as the tradition of customer service is somewhat Air conditioning Credit cards accepted recognisable as the glass box on the Vltava, Hilton Prague has O H shorter. Generally, the further you travel into residential Casino Conference facilities all the facilities expected in this international brand.Q 24 hour Prague, the cheaper the rooms become (and the quirkier T U bars, restaurants and services and a casino. 788 rooms the environment). Late night revellers staggering home to Child friendly Facilities for the disabled (20 singles €150 - 280, 646 €150 - 280, 91 triples musical accompaniment can make a stay in the Old Town R L €166 - 296, 19 suites €308 - 438, 3 apartments €686 - 816, >Q@Q^[bvSY!%@bQXQ$")&()%  Internet Guarded parking bUcUbfQdY_^0X_\YTQiY^^SjgggX_\YTQiY^^Sj less than peaceful, so check out your hotel's location before F G 8 junior suites €266 - 396, 1 presidential suite €956 - 1089). signing up. Alternatively, find a hotel when you get here, and Fitness centre Non- rooms ACDFGHKLOPRTU hhhhh always ask for a discount. Chances are you’ll get one. K M Restaurant Nearest metro station M D C Hilton Prague Old Town I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 7, Nám. Cream of the crop Sauna Swimming pool Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 822 100, fax (+420) 221 822 ”"%!QYbS_^TYdY_^UTb__]c 6 Animal friendly W Wi-Fi 200, www.hilton.com. The city’s second, smaller Hilton boasts Corinthia Towers Praha 4, Kongresová 1, MVyšehrad, a classy interior in an enviable location. All the high-class Hilton  CD1>41B495H53ED9F59CE9D5 tel. (+420) 261 19 11 11, fax (+420) 261 21 16 73, tow- amenities are available in a newer and lovely setting.Q Zinc, their ”%S_^VUbU^SUb__]cgYdXSQ`QSYdi [email protected], www.corinthia.cz. All the convenience you Grand Hotel Bohemia F-3, Praha 1, Králodvorská restaurant and cocktail bar are worth a visit as well. 310 rooms  e`d_"# `U_`\U would demand from a 24-floor hotel in a capital city. In addition 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 234 60 81 11, fax (299 doubles €140 - 250, 10 suites €399 - 459, 1 apartment to a top-class oriental and Italian restaurant, facilities include a (+420) 222 32 95 45, [email protected], €950). PTJHARUFLGKDC hhhhh ”3QV}BUcdQebQ^d5c`bYd casino, fitness centre and ten-pin bowling. Q544 rooms (120 www.grandhotelbohemia.cz. An Austrian-run hotel with singles €260 - 300, 388 doubles €260 - 300, triples €350 - 390, attractive Art Nouveau rooms and staff who are renowned InterContinental Praha E-1, Praha 1, Nám. Curieových  =?45B>3J5381>49>D5B>1D9?>1<3E9C9>5 20 suites €410 - 1570, 1 presidential suite €1570, 16 junior for their efficiency. The hotel has a café and laundry service. 43/5, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 296 63 11 11, fax ”3XQb]Y^WWQbTU^gYdX ACDFGHKLPRTU hhhhh Q suites €410). 78 rooms (10 singles €175 - 240, 65 doubles €210 - (+420) 224 81 12 16, [email protected], www.intercon-  `Q^_bQ]QdYSfYUg 280, 3 junior suites €310 - 540). PHARULGK tinental.com/prague. The friendliest front desk and most Four Seasons D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a, hhhhh helpful concierge in all of Prague might be your first contact ”4}\YSQdUccU2Ycdb_5c`bYdD1;51G1I MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 42 70 00, fax (+420) with this big, international hotel that has been looking after high 221 42 60 00, [email protected], Grand Hotel Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. flyers since before the fall of communism. All the facilities you ”GY6Y8978C@5549>D5B>5D1335CC www.fourseasons.com/prague. Just a step from Charles 22, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 63 25 56, fax would expect, including a superb fitness centre. Q372 rooms ”DXQY]QccQWUc Bridge, the Four Seasons affords its guests with as much (+420) 221 63 25 58, [email protected], www. (155 singles €149 - 270, 128 doubles €149 - 290, 24 suites ”CUSebUT`Qb[Y^WY^dXUX_dU\ class and comfort as is humanly possible. Over a year grandhotelpraha.cz. Run by the Apostolic Residence crew, €349 - 490, 2 apartments €1830 - 4200, 63 junior suites was spent renovating the four buildings that provide a roof the neighbouring Grand Hotel is an equally sumptious place €199 - 340). PHARUFLGBKDC hhhhh  WQbQWU over your head, which range from 500-year-old elegance to to stay, with suitably grand views over and ”5QciQSSUccVb_]4!XYWXgQi contemporary design. Q161 rooms (singles €275 - 550, classically furnished rooms. Q20 rooms (1 single €128 Kempinski Hybernská Prague J-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 141 doubles €295 - 570, 20 apartments €695 - 3900). - 213, 18 doubles €153 - 320, 1 apartment €356 - 463). 12, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 226 22 61 11, fax PTHARUFLGBKD hhhhh PAKD hhhh (+420) 226 22 61 23, reservations.prague@kempinski. com, www.kempinski-prague.com. Luxury squared at the 35<52B1D5>5GI51BC5F5 new Kempinski hotel. The property dates back to the 15th century and has been carefully reconstructed to offer 75 9>Ñ389317?!)# cÀCDI<5 rooms and suites. Expect the usual: air conditioning, telephone, gggX_\YTQiY^^Sj TV, radio, minibar, hairdryer, bath robe, safe, and high-speed internet wifi connection, non-smoking rooms. Suites feature separate bedroom and living areas, fitted kitchenette, guest WC and walk-in closets. Big bonus: the hotel has its own private garden and atrium. Q75 rooms (suites €375, Superior €249 -, Grand Deluxe €295 - ). PJHAUFGK hhhhh

Prague Marriott I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8, MNám. Repub- liky, tel. (+420) 222 88 88 88, fax (+420) 222 88 88 89, [email protected], www.marriottprague. com. Bigger really is better; plus you’ve got an excellent location to boot. Every amenity imaginable and size, lots of it. Higher priced suites have two levels. The rooms have recently been renovated for an extra pop of luxury and comfort. If you are shelling out for a suite or better, then in the Executive Lounge is included. 5H35<<5>D8?D5< Q293 rooms (258 doubles €149 - 315, 33 suites €359 - 495). PTHARUFLGKDC hhhhh X_dU\dXQd_ebWeUcdc\_fUDXQ^[i_e1gQbTUTRi 9^dUb3_^dY^U^dQ\8_dU\c7b_e`ÃcAeQ\Ydi 3_^db_\@b_WbQ]]U President H-2, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 100, rague‘s Premium Summer Venue MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 234 61 41 11, fax (+420) 234 61 41 10, [email protected], www.ho- P telpresident.cz. A range of top-class suites, an executive floor, a casino and a fitness room and spa, have earned the President five star status (though even their large standard rooms have a sofa). Photographs throughout the hotel complement the elegant décor of pale yellows and blue glass. All staff seem genuinely pleased to be here and smile broadly. Q130 rooms (7 singles €165 - 225, 65 doubles €145 - 225, 22 triples €145 - 225, 32 junior suites €195 - 255, 3 senior suites €295 - 355, 1 ÇéâØÕí”Öæéâ×ܔÚæãᔥ¥¢¤¤”Õá ¶¶Å”ØÝââÙæ”ÙêÙæ픺æÝØÕí”Úæãᔪ¢¤¤”äá presidential suite €800 - 1100). Executive floor add €50 on all types of rooms. POTHARUFLKD hhhhh

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 18 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 19

Radisson SAS Alcron I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 40, Andel’s Praha 5, Stroupežnického 21, MAnděl, tel. MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 82 00 00, fax (+420) 222 Upmarket (+420) 296 88 96 88, fax (+420) 296 88 99 99, info@ 82 01 00, [email protected], www. Absolutum Praha 7, Jablonského 4, MHolešovice, andelshotel.com, www.andelshotel.com. Bang in the prague.radissonsas.com. Built in 1930 and restored to tel. (+420) 222 54 14 06, booking@absoluthotel. centre of the upmarket development west of the river, and its former glory in 1999, this place has picked up a heap cz, www.absolutumhotel.cz. The absolute best place just a few tramstops from the old town, the glittering facilities of design awards. Guests can expect rooms that have the to stay in Praha 7. Design hotel Absolutum is an upscale, at Andel’s will blind you with their high-technicity. Top-notch warmth and grace of state rooms on a luxury liner. The higher clean and shiny place with all the conveniences of home; accommodation with designer lines. Q231 rooms (singles the floor, the more stunning your view of Prague. Extras including internet connection and parking. The restaurant €235 - 300, 223 doubles €255 - 325, 8 suites €320 - 380). include a 24-hour limousine service. Prices do not include is also getting rave reviews so if you are looking for chic ADFGHKLPRTU hhhh VAT. Q211 rooms (12 singles €169 - 229, 180 doubles accommodations in a cool ‘hood, absolutely check in. Q €169 - 229, 5 suites €309 - 359, 1 apartment €900 - 1300, Doubles from €79. PAUFK Antik City H-5, Praha 2, Malá Štěpánská 13, MMůstek, 13 junior suites €269 - 309). PTHARUFLG tel. (+420) 224 91 91 00, fax (+420) 224 91 90 60, info@ BKD hhhhh Ametyst J-6, Praha 2, Jana Masaryka 11, MNám. antikcity.cz, www.antikcity.cz. A newly reconstructed Míru, tel. (+420) 222 92 19 21, fax (+420) 222 92 boutique hotel in a quiet part of Nové Město. The rooms are Royal Palace B2, Praha 1, Letenská 11, MMalostran- 19 99, [email protected], www.hotelametyst. classically designed and include sat TV, mini-bar, safe and free ská, tel. (+420) 224 81 12 81, fax (+420) 224 81 12 87, cz. Nicknamed The Gallery, it has over 450 paintings by internet connection. Their lovely café is a nice place to start or [email protected], www.hotelroyalpalace. Russian and Romanian artists on display, and a reputa- end your day. Q30 rooms (30 doubles €165). PK hhhh cz. The first 5-star Best Western hotel in Europe; the Royal tion as one of the more efficient hotels in Prague. Tucked Palace (neighbor to ) is fit for royalty. Boutique away in a quiet section of Vinohrady but close to food Aquapalace Hotel Prague - Čestlice, Pražská, tel. (+420) amenities and personal touches abound. Only 36 rooms and transport hubs and now with Wi-Fi throughout, this 225 10 88 88, fax (+420) 225 10 89 99, info@aquapalace- means you’ll get the attention you need; and the renovated is a good low-key option. Q84 rooms (8 singles €85 hotel.cz, www.aquapalacehotel.cz. Located on the outskirts 19th century building is filled with a charm all its own. Q - 155, 69 doubles €105 - 215, 7 triples €130 - 265). of Prague, this new hotel’s draw is its direct access to Central Single: €140; Double: €150. PJAUK PHAULGKDW hhhh Europe’s largest waterpark. Conference facilities, a wellness centre, nearby shopping opportunities and of course all the mod Sheraton Prague Charles Square Hotel H-5, Prague Élite H-5, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MNárodní třída, tel. cons one could want mean even if your skin starts to prune, you’ll 2, Žitná 8, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+420) 225 99 99 (+420) 224 93 22 50, fax (+420) 224 93 07 87, sales@ have somewhere to go besides the water. Q231 rooms (183 99, fax (+420) 225 99 99 09, www.sheraton.com. The hotelelite.cz, www.hotelelite.cz. With a history that dates doubles €95, 3 suites €145, 30 Family Rooms €135, 3 Barrier Sheraton near Karlovo náměstí offers comfy beds, a good in back to the 14th century, the Élite, a member of the Small Free Rooms). TAFLKDC hhhh between Old and New Town location plus in room high speed Charming group, is another gem. Totally refurbished in 2000, internet connection and a variety of dining options. Modern rooms are suitably grand, spacious and historic, with wonder- Astoria F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 10, MNám. Republiky, tel. and sleek, the first Sheraton in Prague has 160 rooms con- ful high , and lovely antique furniture. Q79 rooms (10 (+420) 221 77 57 11, fax (+420) 221 77 57 12, info@ sisting of 122 deluxe rooms plus 38 suites. It’s a well-located singles €112 - 176, 67 doubles €125 - 199, 1 triple €169 hotelastoria.cz, www.hotelastoria.cz. Astoria occupies smart choice. Q Deluxe rooms: €150-250; Suites: €250-650. - 267, 1 junior suite €147 - 216). PARULGBK a modern building on some prime real estate in Prague Old PJHA6UFKW hhhhh hhhh Town. Rooms are on the small side, but comfortable with bright blue interiors, modern wood furnishings and great views. Top-floor VIP rooms offer more amenities and enor- mous balconies. Q74 rooms (singles €99 - 220, 74 doubles €99 - 240). AGHKLPRTU hhhh

Barceló F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 29, MNáměstí Republiky, tel. 222 33 71 11, fax 241 44 10 23, oldtownpraha.fom@ barcelo.com, www.barcelo.com. It’s so light and bright! With a in its centre; Barceló tosses away the typical dark lobby and hallways and lets the sun shine in. The lobby is covered in a skylight and the walk to your room will have an view to outside. A mix of rooms and suites (28 rooms; 34 suites) with all the mod-cons: mini-bar, TV, DVD player, air- conditioning, etc. An excellent restaurant as well. Q62 rooms (28 doubles €64, 34 suites €100). PJAK hhhh

Barceló Praha Praha 4, Na Strži 32, MPankrác, tel. (+420) 296 77 21 11, fax (+420) 241 44 10 23, hotel@ barcelo.cz, www.barcelo.com. An excellent Spanish-owned hotel, this place has extremely friendly staff and small yet comfy rooms with minibar and telephone plus free parking in the garage. Q213 rooms (singles €130 - 150, 198 doubles €150 - 170, 15 suites €170 - 240). PHAULK hhhh

Belvedere I-1, Praha 7, Milady Horákové 19, MVl- tavská, tel. (+420) 220 10 61 11, fax (+420) 233 37 44 71, [email protected], www.hotelbelvedere. cz. Situated in a lovely area across the Vltava, not far from the castle, the Belvedere offers wonderful accommodation and a high level of service. The spacious three-star standard rooms come with as many mod cons as you could ever need, and the four-star executive floor has even more on offer. Q152 rooms (6 singles €53 - 88, 113 doubles €71 - 118, 32 triples €89 - 148, 1 quad €89 - 148). Singles from 1200CZK; Doubles from 1550CZK; Triples from 1950CZK, includes buffet breakfast, city tax and VAT. HAULGK hhhh

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 20 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 21

Best Western Premier Hotel Majestic Plaza I-5, Lanka. Luxurious accommodation, supremely personable Praha 1, Štěpánská 33, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 221 and delightfully quiet. Q138 rooms (2 singles €150 - 240, 48 61 00, fax (+420) 221 48 64 86, reception@hotel- 126 doubles €170 - 260, 3 suites €320 - 400, 7 junior suites www.inyourpocket.com majestic.cz, www.hotel-majestic.cz. Lavishly renovated €225 - 350). Breakfast and VAT not included in the price. buildings around a copper clad courtyard. One is Biedermeier PTHARUFLGBKX hhhh RAGUE style and sports slightly cramped but fully mod conned rooms P on five floors. The other is superb art deco and hosts seven Elysee F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43, MMůstek, tel. 221 Jalta Hotel F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 45, M floors of rooms with the top floors wielding theQ terraces and 45 51 11, fax 224 22 57 73, [email protected], www. Muzeum, tel. (+420) 222 82 21 11, fax (+420) 222 CLASSIC CHARM views. Central and stylish, Majestic is the word. 185 rooms hotelelysee.cz. Right in the centre of the city, with all of Prague’s 82 28 33, [email protected], www.jalta.cz. The (175 doubles €125 - 260, 5 triples €165 - 310, 5 apartments main attractions just a few minutes walk away. All rooms are reception area, and especially the bathrooms, perpetuate a AND MODERN HOSPITALITY €195 - 330). PHAR6ULGKDW hhhh well-appointed, spacious and have luxurious bathrooms. Six new classy, retro feel. The classic lines of the surroundings are apartments have been added to Elysee’s charm, all fully equipped enhanced by the rich materials and colours. Double and deluxe BW Meteor Plaza I-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 6, MNám. for 2-6 people. (Prices for apartments do not include breakfast). rooms, plus five suites. Q94 rooms (89 doubles €160 - 240, AT OUR HOTELS Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 19 25 59, fax (+420) 224 Q76 rooms (8 singles €73 - 133, 50 doubles €96 - 180, 12 triples 5 suites €220 - 290). PTHARULGBK hhhh AND LUXURY APARTMENTS 22 06 81, [email protected], www.hotel- €120 - 223, 6 apartments €111 - 246). PAULG hhhh meteor.cz. Within shouting distance of the Powder Tower, Mövenpick Praha 5, Mozartova 261/1, MAnděl, tel. this Best Western hotel is full of charm, but then again, there Holiday Inn Praha 4, Na Pankráci 15/1684, MVyšehrad, (+420) 257 15 11 11, fax (+420) 257 15 31 31, hotel. has been an inn here since 1307. In the 18th century, the tel. (+420) 296 89 50 00, fax (+420) 296 89 50 10, [email protected], www.movenpick-prague.com. man later to become Emperor Josef II wouldn’t lay his head [email protected], www.holidayinn.cz. The Holiday Inn The hotel’s rooms are spacious and are decorated in a modern down anywhere else. Q88 rooms (15 singles €109 - 173, brand name is known for its quality services and standards style. Take the funicular up the hill to the restaurant and function 56 doubles €125 - 190, 10 triples €166 - 239, 6 suites €141 across the globe, and the Prague version is no exception. rooms with outstanding views of the city. Q442 rooms (4 singles - 217). ADFGHKLPR hhhh Good rooms, amentities and location at reasonable prices. €240, 410 doubles €280, 7 suites €445, 6 apartments €, 15 Q251 rooms (243 doubles €220 - 240, 8 suites €270). junior suites). PTHARUFLGBKD hhhh Carlton Praha 3, Táboritská 18, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. PHARULGBK hhhh 222 71 11 77, fax 222 71 11 99, carlton@europehotels. Sovereign I-4, Politických vězňů 16, MMuzeum, tel. cz, www.hotelcarlton.cz. Dark wood and deep green soft Hotel Černý slon F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MNám. (+420) 242 45 45 45/(+420) 242 45 45 65, fax (+420) furnishings give a sophisticated air to the rooms. Bathrooms Republiky, tel. 222 32 15 21, fax 222 31 03 51, slon@ 242 45 45 11, [email protected], www.hotel- are luxurious, while the top floor rooms have vaulted, slanted hotelcernyslon.cz, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. This elegant sovereign.cz. Elegant yet homey with an excellent city-centre ceilings and suites often go for the same price as a double. hotel rolls out the red carpet for all of its guests. Rooms, location, this new four-star superior hotel should be popular. A little way out of town, but the Carlton has good tram links. decorated with antique furniture, are spacious and some Fifty spacious rooms and suites are all individually decorated Q49 rooms (3 singles €73 - 133, 40 doubles €97 - 180, 6 include an amazing view of the surrounding medieval centre. in a warm comforting style. The location is on the nicer, quieter triples €120 - 223). PHARULGK hhhh The wine cellar is also worth a peek. Q16 rooms (2 singles side of Wenceslas Square and comes complete with all the €73 - 113, 10 doubles €117 - 190, 4 triples €153 - 223). usuals: in-room air conditioning, free Wi-Fi, satellite TV, mini- Corinthia Panorama Praha 4, Milevská 7, MPankrác, PARLK hhhh bar and safe. Q PJAFKW hhhh tel. (+420) 261 16 11 11/(+420) 261 16 60 61, fax (+420) 261 16 41 41, [email protected], www. BOOKING ONLINE corinthia.cz. The second, albeit less exclusive Corinthia hotel in Prague still has excellent services and facilities in rooms and restaurants. The pool provides panoramic views www.europehotels.cz of the city as one swims or lounges. Q450 rooms (118 singles €205 - 225, 321 doubles €205 - 225, triples €275 - 295, 1 presidential suite €1340, 10 junior suites €410). PTHARUFLGBKDC hhhh

Courtyard Marriott Flora Praha 3, Lucemburská 46, MFlora, tel. (+420) 236 08 80 88, fax (+420) 236 08 80 89, www.marriott.com. Billed as hotels designed www.europehotels.czwwwwwww.e.eu.eueurorropopopeehehohohotetteltleellss.s.c..cz by business travellers, every room has a dataport and TV internet (both charged for standard rooms) and are spacious Hotel Anna Best Western Hotel Meteor Plaza Hotel Claris with desk, ergonomic chair and a sofa(bed). King size and very    comfortable beds dominate rooms, which have ice buckets, Budečská 17, Praha 2 Hybernská 6, Praha 1 Slezská 26, Praha 2 fridge for you to fill, hairdryer, coffee/ facilities plus iron in tel. +420 222 513 111 tel. +420 224 192 111 tel. +420 242 446 111 every room and robe and slippers in superior rooms make the www.hotelanna.cz www.hotel-meteor.cz www.hotel-claris.cz CourtyardQ a place to stay. 24hr shop in the lobby plus a cosy bar. 161 rooms (81 singles €105 - 135, 64 doubles €135 Hotel Élite Hotel Atlantic Best Western Hotel Páv - 175, 13 triples €140 - 200, 1 suite €195 - 245). Breakfast    PHAR6UIFLGKW hhhh €9-16. Ostrovní 32, Praha 1 Na Poříčí 9, Praha 1 Křemencova 13, Praha 1 tel. +420 224 932 250 tel. +420 224 811 084 tel. +420 221 502 111 Crowne Plaza Prague Castle Praha 1, Strahovská www.hotelelite.cz www.hotel-atlantic.cz www.hotel-pav.cz 128, tel. (+420) 226 08 00 00, fax (+420) 226 08 02 e-mail: 00, [email protected], www.crowneplaza. Sovereign Hotel com. A beautifully restored 16th century building with modern [email protected]  annexe tucked behind Strahov Monastery holds this striking new hotel from InterContinental with glass domed atrium/ Politických Vězňů 16, Praha 1 Tel: +420 224 248 752 library and effective yet simple designs in lighting and furni- tel. +420 242 454 545 ture. Two wings, one old, one new, hold spacious rooms with www.hotel-sovereign.cz king, queen or twin beds, desk, plasma TV, smellies from The White Company and some have a small terrace. The usual services join the country’s only Ayurvedic spa and clinic, Location Character Hospitality Catering Calm Charm with doctor, therapists and equipment all imported from Sri

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 22 WHERE TO STAY WHERE TO STAY 23

Mid-Range Anna J-5, Praha 2, Budečská 17, MNám. Míru, tel. (+420) 222 51 31 11, fax (+420) 222 51 51 58, recep- [email protected], www.hotelanna.cz. Part of the Small Charming group, and the Anna is just that. A real gem, with first class services and a homely atmosphere that caters to a thoughtful clientele looking for something a little special. Q24 rooms (8 singles €63 - 77, 10 doubles €83 - 103, 4 triples €110 - 130, 2 suites €120 - 140). TARG hhh

Ariston K-4, Praha 3, Seifertova 65, MHlavní nádraží, tel. (+420) 222 78 25 17/(+420) 222 78 11 87, fax (+420) 222 78 03 47, [email protected], www.hotelariston. cz. Rooms at the Ariston are light and pastel coloured. Although it may seem far from the centre, it's just a couple of tram stops away. Q61 rooms (4 singles €50 - 100, 44 doubles €70 - 133, 12 triples €90 - 140, 1 suite €93 - 187). HAUGK hhh

Atlantic I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 9, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 81 10 84, fax (+420) 224 81 23 78, info@ hotel-atlantic.cz, www.hotel-atlantic.cz. This hotel is on Yasmin F-4, Praha 1, Politických vězňů 12, MMuzeum, the site of a roadside inn in the 17th century. The Atlantic tel. (+420) 234 10 01 00, fax (+420) 234 10 01 01, remains on a busy road today but with renovated interiors [email protected], www.hotel-yasmin.cz. This fabu- which are now sleek, chic and classy, conference facilities and lous designer hotel is all very tactile, with sleek furniture, Fiesta, their self service restaurant, this is excellent value for jasmine flowers etched along floors and glass dividers, silver being so close to the Old Town. Q88 rooms (9 singles €73 globes hanging from the ceiling and odd furry and smooth - 110, 52 doubles €97 - 129, 25 triples €112 - 158, 2 quads triffid-like objects towering over you. A subtle green dominates €141 - 187). HARULGK hhh the room colour, each has a huge mirror so you can look as good as it does, flat screen TVs, all mod cons and rooms in Best Western Hotel Páv H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 13, the newer annex have skylights while the suite boasts a walk- MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+420) 221 50 21 11, fax (+420) in closet. Some rooms have no shower, tub only so check if 221 50 22 23, [email protected], www.hotel-pav. rooms. A fitness centre, large restaurant and indoor parking you care. Q198 rooms (187 doubles €220 - 280, 11 suites cz. Prague is blessed with another Small Charming Hotel, this amp up the interest. Leisure travellers and outdoor lovers will Hostels €260 - 340). ADFGHKLPR6U hhhh time in the New Town, where three buildings have been merged appreciate the proximity to Vyšehrad castle and gardens. Q Czech Inn K-6, Praha 10, Francouzská 76, MNám. and beautifully reconstructed to incorporate classical elements €70-300. PHA6FKW Míru, tel. (+420) 267 26 76 00, fax (+420) 267 26 76 with modern lines. And it is very minimalist: no prints on the 01, [email protected], www.czech-inn.com. The pun is and muted wood and beige interior. All rooms have twin beds, excused due to the sheer design beauty and comfort these Airport hotels a safe, minibar, desk, TV and free Wi-Fi. Pets are welcome and Pensions people have afforded your average backpacker. From some the lower double price is for single occupancy. Q81 rooms (66 D ům u velké boty C1, Praha 1, Vlašská 30, MMalos- of the makers of Sir Toby’s and Miss Sophie’s, Czech Inn is Courtyard Marriott Prague Airport Praha 6, doubles €79 - 129, 15 triples €118 - 158). PARUKW transká, tel. (+420) 257 53 20 88, info@dumuvelkeboty. the future of backpacking, we hope… the custom iron bed- Aviatická 1092/8, tel. (+420) 236 07 71 40, fax cz, www.dumuvelkeboty.cz. Old-fashion charm fairly oozes At steads and furniture, stylish fixtures, famous shower heads, (+420) 236 07 70 78, www.marriott.com/prgpa. Claris J-4, Praha 2, Slezská 26, MNám. Míru, tel. (+420) the Big Boot. You'll find this cozy, family run hotel just at the bot- café and wow-split-level apartments have already made the Security dictates no open windows so it’s all sealed 242 44 61 11, fax (+420) 242 44 61 12, reception@ tom of the Castle. The building has been around awhile; but the international press, even the 10 bed dorm is spacious. All but it’s all glass walls with magnificent views and Zen hotel-claris.cz, www.hotel-claris.cz. Set in the coveted owners have done a delightful job in mixing modern technology beds have lockable drawers. Reservations necessary. Q33 garden by the fitness centre with jasmine, lemon, orange Vinohrady district, Claris offers two floors of light, spacious with period furnishings. Q Doubles start at 2700CZK. TJ rooms (12 doubles €50 - 57, 2 triples €58 - 65, 8 apartments and trees. The comfy library, lobby and business and affordable rooms. It's just minutes away from the nám. €68 - 157, dorms €14 - 15). AUGBK area (with to pay Wi-Fi) and Italian restaurant with open Miru trams and metro station, or a 15-minute stroll into the kitchen and as-required bar are all open to the public and centre, but you'll also find many good restaurant options in the Apartments Old Prague Hostel F-2, Praha 1, Benediktská 2, connected to the airport via a covered walkway. Rooms immediate neighbourhood. Q24 rooms (2 singles €66 - 79, Marriott Executive Apartments I-5, Praha 2, V MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 82 90 58, nfo@ are of the high Marriott standard with plasma TVs with 22 doubles €86 - 106). PARLGK hhh Tůních 9, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 221 02 21 02, fax oldpraguehostel.com, www.oldpraguehostel.com. keyboard, to pay internet, an ice machine on each floor (+420) 221 022 103, www.praguemarriottexecu- Award-winning hostel slap bang in the thick of Prague’s M and a fridge for youQ to stock. A welcome change to the Ibis Praha Smíchov Praha 5, Plzeňská 14, Anděl, tiveapartments.com. An excellent choice for the corporate nightlife. All entrances are key-coded for security, dorms airport’s services. 235 rooms (132 singles €85 - 125, tel. (+420) 221 70 17 00, fax (+420) 221 70 18 00, resa- or business traveller; the fully furnished studio or one- (max. 8 beds) have lockers and are fairly cramped, but hey, 98 doubles €85 - 125, 5 suites €175 - 195). PTHA RUFLGKXW hhhh [email protected], www.ibishotel.com. The third bedroom apartments provide a “home office” area with two all you’re going to do is sleep in there. Plus free internet, Ibis for Prague gives their usual room rates and facilities in the lines, high speed (wired) internet access and fully equipped TV/DVD lounge, kitchen, breakfast and linen, a 24 hour ever-growing and trendier by the day area around Anděl. Hard kitchen. Housekeeping is available, as is dinner delivery from reception and very friendly staff - the owner’s grandmother Ramada Airport Hotel Prague Praha 6, K Letiště working staff keep smiling and converse freely in a number of a number of nearby restaurants. A fitness area, plunge pool, did all the artwork. Q From €10.90 in a 10-bed dorm to 25a, tel. (+420) 220 11 12 50, fax (+420) 220 languages. The lobby bar is busy, which is very uncommon plus business and conceirge services round out the ameni- €30 for a single. G 11 12 56, [email protected], in hotels. An excellent choice for a comfortable stay across ties. Q53 rooms (53 apartments €80 - 250). JAFC www.ramadainternational.com. The oldest and least the river. Oh, and your pets are welcome too. Q228 rooms Prague Square Hostel E-3, Praha 1, Melantrichova appealing of the airport hotels and less inclined for the (singles €64 - 84, 214 doubles €76 - 96, 12 triples €88 - 108, Prague Classic Rental J-6, Praha 2, Záhřebská 37, 10, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 24 08 59, info@ international traveller - it is adjacent to the domestic 2 suites €154). PTHARULGK hhh MNáměstí Míru, tel./fax (+420) 222 51 64 66, tel. praguesquarehostel.com, www.praguesquarehostel. terminal and has no link other than overpriced taxi to the (+420) 603 33 16 79, [email protected], com. Full service - friendly atmosphere is their slogan; and international (north) terminal. Rooms have safe, minibar, Park Inn H-7, Praha 2, Svobodova 1, MVyšehrad, tel. www.pragueclassicrental.cz. A variety of apartments in boy do they live up to it. Included in the price is breakfast, hair dryer etc. but are basic and with showers only while (+420) 225 99 52 25, fax (+420) 261 00 96 86, info. 3 excellent Vinohrady buildings. Get a feel for city life with a free linens & towels, internet &Wi-Fi, lockers and a luggage apartments comprise a room with small sofa bed and [email protected], www.prague.parkinn.com. 1 week or longer stay in one of Prague Classic Rental’s fully room. Checking out? They’ll keep your bags for free. Newly bathtub. Internet is not free but they have TV keyboards. Q PHAR6UGKXW A large modern hotel in an Art Deco-ish building; Park Inn is furnished and modernly decorated apartments. From studios reconstructed and in a great part of town; definitely check it part of the Radisson SAS group. Good choice for biz people; up to 3-bedroom flats, you’ll be well-catered to in your own out. Q €10.90 per bed in 10-bed dorm up to €30 for a single. they have conference facilities; meeting rooms and 210 guest personal space. Q 10,000-25,000CZK per week. A Includes taxes and breakfast. JGW

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 24 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 25

Symbol key Argentinean m<+018+9:';8'4: M P A El Gaucho E-4, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 13, Můstek, Air conditioning Credit cards accepted tel. (+420) 234 07 63 22, www.el-gaucho.cz. Once off THE 8KYKXK\GZOUTTKIKYYGX_ E Live music S Ta k e a wa y the escalator, shake off the shopping mall feel by attending .59:/4+) T U to your carnivorous needs. The is hearty and with Child friendly Facilities for the disabled just the right hint of charcoal to make it authentic. QOpen ROCK ‘N’ ROLL PAUE ;1'2/).' G Non-smoking areas L Guarded parking 11:30 - 24:00. (500 - 900Kč). O M RESTAURANT Casino Nearest metro station La Boca I-3, Praha 1, Truhlářská 10, MNám. Republiky, B Outside seating I tel. (+420) 222 31 20 73, www.laboca.cz. La Boca, junior R W 6 to the Hotel Salvator next door, serves up large and value-filled Internet Wi-Fi Animal friendly Argentinean dishes, making for a good option when you fancy a touch of flair without making your wallet feel like you're pur- chasing a ticket to . Within the expected rustic décor great stuffed peppers, ribs and of course chicken wings. and brightly muralled walls the over-worked staff try their best This is billed as a 'lifestyle' restaurant and serves and actually remain friendly. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 4G(UPO{ZOŽ delicious dishes with their distinctive brand of style. 11:00 - 23:00. (150 - 350Kč). PTAUG QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (150 6XGNG A M ZKRLG^   Ž  - 300Kč). La Casa Argentina F-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 35, Nám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 15 12, www.lacasaar- KŽSGOR [QGROING&[QGROINGI`]]][QGROINGI` Buffalo Bill's H-5, Praha 1, Vodičkova 9, MMůstek, gentina.cz. A labyrinthine homage to comfort and cuisine tel. (+420) 224 94 86 24, www.buffalobill.cz. A with added spice from tango dancers, a toucan and unique clear example of how the West has won in Prague, swing seats at the cellar bar. Service is impeccable and the :NKI`KINI[OYOTKOYNKG\_LGZ BB's is an American-style restaurant decorated like a signature Pampas-raised Argentinean cooked to perfec- GTJ[TNKGRZNR_ŽH[Z\KX_TOIK saloon where the Duke or Clint Eastwood could meet tion (asado) at the open grill (parrilla). With a non-smoking for drinks. Although classic barbecued ribs and burgers winter garden, sports corridor with TVs and a wine cellar, are offered, Bill's true speciality is Tex-Mex food in the this luxurious new additionQ to Prague's fine dining scene is =NUNGYTtZHKKTGZZNKLGSU[YV[H form of burritos, enchiladas and, the crowning achieve- set to cruise forward. Open 11:00 - 02:00. (200 - 750Kč). ment of its genre, chimichangas. Limitless soft drinks PAIEG ;1GROINGNGYTtZHKKTZU6XGM[K can be had, but the glasses are so large you probably won't dare have more than one. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (150 - 300Kč). PTA Bakeries & Paneria D-2, Praha 1, Kaprova 3, MStaroměstská, Cowboys & Cocktails A-1, Praha 1, tel. (+420) 224 82 79 12, www.paneria.cz. Paneria is a Prague is aptly named the city of a hundred spires, but to Nerudova 40, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 296 82 chain of bakeries with a tasty range of sweet and savoury the gastronomically inclined it's also known as the city of 61 07, www.kampagroup.com. Bazaar has morphed ; including pastries, sandwiches, soups and that a thousand restaurants. Prague's cosmopolitan character into the Kampa Group's sublime version of an American fuels you up. The pasta is not known for its value or flavour is reflected by her increasingly international and excellent steakhouse. Premium-tequila-laden cowgirls on the bar, however. Fresh and fast. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Also at F-3, cuisine, although there are still plenty of tourist traps. quality and affordable cuts of , seafood and even Nekázanka 19; I-4, Vodičkova 33; E-2, Dlouhá 50 and many lobster (1,250Kč), complementary wine list, myriad salad other locations. (40 - 100Kč). S and side offerings, cool bar, tunes and atmosphere. A Afghan fabulous cellar space, classy design, exellent cuisine Subway I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 51, MMůstek, tel. Ariana F-2, Praha 1, Rámová 6, MNám. Republiky, tel. and staff round out another Kampa success. The primo (+420) 224 21 44 17, www.subwaysandwiches.cz. (+420) 222 32 34 38, www.sweb.cz/kabulrest. Superb, cafe serves Illy coffee, Cream & Dream gelato and more. Subway ensures your sub in Prague is the same as in Paris, especially if it happens to be the chilli or a large plate QOpen 12:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 03:00. (250 - France or Paris, so their quality hot and cold subs, of aubergines swimming in and . Ariana's Afghan 750Kč) PAIEBW myriad of dressings, salad accessories, the huge catering is slightly spicy, and uses a lot of tomatoes and yoghurt. , cookies and frequent fliers schemes are all avail- The portions may be a tad underweight but great Eastern Hard Rock Cafe H-3, Praha 1, Malé náměstí 3, able here. Plus pivo - of course. ISIC cardholder discounts cuisine, at better prices than most. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 22 95 29, www. apply. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Also (150 - 250Kč). TA hardrock.com. Hard Rock Cafe Prague, Europe's largest at B-2, Karmelitská 28. (59 - 148Kč). PS Hard Rock Cafe, is situated in the four-story, V.J.Rott build- Kabul Karolina D-4, Praha 1, Karolíny Světlé 14, ing with a beautifully decorated neo-Renaissance façade MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 224 23 54 52, www. and frescos. The cafe is located in the heart of old Prague Balkan kabulrestaurant.cz. Unassuming in appearance, perhaps less than 50 meters from the famous Old Town Square. The Gitanes A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 7, MMalostranská, tel. like the city it's named after, it's the food and the pleasant three-level, 1900-square-meter cafe includes two vibrant (+420) 257 53 01 63, [email protected], www.gitanes.cz. courtyard seating at this Afghan restaurant that draws bars and features a unique compilation of memorabilia from A vast and fairly expensive selection of local and international in the Czech and foreign crowds. The short menu lists Hard Rock's world-famous collection completed by a 5-meter wines precede a vastly unusual menu for a Prague restau- among others kebabs, kofta (spicy ) and ashak, custom-made chandelier in the shape of a guitar. QOpen rant. Octopus and mussels vie for space with and lamb, a delicious dough pocket stuffed with beef, leek, yoghurt 11:00 - 01:00. 250 - 490Kč. A served in a marked Balkan slant, see sač, kajmak and sarma and mint. Don't forget to try the kadu yoghurt-pumpkin . QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. (185 - 435Kč). AG dessert before you leave. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Jáma D-4, Praha 1, V Jámě 7, MMůstek, tel. (+420) Sun. PAB 224 22 23 83, www.jamapub.cz. Music and booze Luka Lu G-4, Praha 1, Újezd 33, MMalostranská, tel. prague memorabilia from the Ramones to Jack Daniels adorn the (+420) 257 21 23 88, [email protected], www.lukalu. Dům U Rotta • Malé náměstí 3 walls and ceilings of this, one of Prague's most popular cz. Balkan and Italian inspired meals; coupled with warm, American expat destinations. Big, juicy burgers, and Tex-Mex, laid-back service makes Luka Lu a great choice for a nice, 420 224 229 529 • hardrock.com Ambiente Living K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 59, as well as cheap local specials, lunch deals and . Their relaxed evening. Their fun interior and excellent back ter- The Rock ‘n’ Roll Restaurant. MNám. Míru, tel. (+420) 222 72 78 51, www. Sunday breakfast/brunch deals are large, tasty and have race add to the ambience. Choose octopus, seafood, lamb ambi.cz. One of the Ambiente chain, and as eternally free refills of coffee. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (100 - 250Kč). or pasta. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. popular as the others, this place serves up fresh salad, TAGBW 115-380kč. JB

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 26 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 27

establishment you'll find a courtyard terrace and two floors of Budweiser Budvar Restaurant Praha 6, Aviatická Breakfast beer swilling and eating. More elegant no-smoking 1092/8, tel. (+420) 224 24 25 77, www.restaurant- Bohemia A-4, Praha 1, Masná 2, MNám. Repub- rooms are available for dining; the menu, although traditional, letiste.cz. In the cold environs of the new shopping centre liky, tel. (+420) 224 81 25 60, www.bohemiabagel.cz. is uninspired. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. (150 - 200Kč). AB by the airport Marriott this Budvar restaurant hardly en- The original. Internet bar, child play room, and all the tices with character. The traditional is good and other breakfast goodies your hungry belly craves. A laun- and although prices are higher than in town, it's worth dry , grilled items, soups and desserts for Chinese grabbing a meal here before entering the vastly inflated the rest of the day. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Also at Dukelských Fu Hao H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 10, MNárodní třída, prices of the airport itself. The café next door has com- Hrdinu 48/Šimáckova 21, Prague 7, tel. 220 80 65 41. Open tel. (+420) 721 87 35 37. Just look for the enormous fortable seats but little else to attract other than there 07:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 24:00. Chinese vases in the windows opposite Prague's most isn't anything better at the airport. QOpen 10:30 - 22:00. celebrated beer hall, U Fleků, to find this friendly restaurant (120 - 440Kč). PTA

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 28 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 29

Švejk D-2, Praha 1, Široká 20, MStaroměstská, tel. NEW Manni Mini Praha 3, Seifertova 11, MHlavní nádraží, tel. (+420) 224 81 39 64. Someone spent some money (and French Universal H-5, Praha 1, V jirchářích 6, MNárodní Třida, (+420) 222 51 16 60. From the people who run several oriental not much by the look of it) to make a new restaurant look Brasserie La Provence E-3, Praha 1, Štupartská 9, tel. 224 93 44 16, [email protected], www.universalres- oriented late night markets comes this small, functional but very old - basically what a beer hall would look like in the Czech MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 296 82 61 55, www. taurant.cz. There seems to be a load of French restaurants tasty Indian place to fill the gap in the market. of every hue pavilion at the World Expo. That said, Švejk restaurants are kampagroup.com. The people that brought you Kampa hanging about; but for a nice sampling and good prices; head to and origin (tandoori, biryani, Punjabi, dopiaza, Madras, jalfrezi and always good for like duck, pork and wild boar Park went to great lengths to create a genuine brasserie Universal. Here you'll be treated to a near-perfect tartar, vindaloo of course) come in vegetarian, chicken, lamb and prawn served with dumplings, cabbage and a local beer. QOpen in the heart of Prague. The result is a ‘best of' amalgam of a creamy chicken dijonnaise (sauce on the side, thank you!) not to variations with basmati rice and a wide smile. Good not brilliant, 11:00 - 23:00. (100 - 300Kč). A several Parisian brasseries; a stunning Belle Epoque room mention filling salads, and of course delectable desserts. If you but oh, what a price. Wine for just 150Kč too. Oh, and they serve with large windows. Specialising in delicious fresh seafood are in the mood for brunch; you most likely won't find a fresher too …? QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. (100 - 170Kč). N Tlustá kachna D-2, Praha 1, Široká 4, MStaroměstská, (anything from oysters to lobster), game like rabbit in tarragon more creative mid-day meal. Served Sundays from 11:00-14:00. tel. (+420) 224 81 96 68, www.tlustakachna.cz. Imagi- sauce and vegetarian quiche are also available. The QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. 165-299 Kč, Brunch: 235 or 265 Kč. Masala J-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 13, MMuzeum, tel. native Czech cuisine can be done; and the Fat Duck is doing sommelier has selected several uncomplicated wines (that (+420) 722 90 76 66, www.masala.cz. Authentic (no it. Pork or duck with cabbage and dumplings isn't new or can also be had by glass) that go wonderfully with the food. beef) and not (dried fruit in the samosas) at the same time, exotic; but done right it is delicious, and it's done right here. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (130 - 600Kč). PA Greek but Masala has an owner who understands customer service The must order though is the creamy soup. Czech wine Kavala Prague 6, Charlese de Gaulla 5, MDejvická, tel. and therefore whatever quibbles you have with it today, tomor- and beer take care of the drinks. Two additional things stand Céleste H-6, Praha 2, Rašínovo nábřeží 80, MKarlovo (+420) 224 32 51 81, www.kavala-praha.cz. Following row they may be gone. The spice quotient is up to you and the out; excellent service and big portions. Stop by. QOpen náměstí, tel. (+420) 221 98 41 60, info@celesterestau- an extensive reconstruction, Kavala joins and adds to the vindaloo was delicious without being nuclear. With homemade 11:00 - 24:00. 139-390kč. rant.cz, www.celesterestaurant.cz. Newly opened on top of emergence of Prague 6 as the location of some of Prague's ingredients and divine desserts; Masala is looking like one of the Dancing House (Tančící dům); excellent and finest eating establishments (well, diplomats are a notorious the best Indian options in town. Reservations recommended - U Maltézských rytířů B-2, Praha 1, Prokopská 10, fabulous city views are yours for the money. The contemporary group of eaters and drinkers, so why not?). Good word-of- it is very small. QOpen 11:30 - 23:00. (100 - 250Kč). AS MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 00 75, www. restaurant is set in an expansive space; complete with a sum- mouth buzz and Greek chefs make this another authentic umaltezskychrytiru.com. This historical restaurant mer terrace. The cuisine is creative and solid; lots of seafood haven for , calamari and tender lamb lovers. QOpen called ‘At the Maltese Cross' is housed in a 14th century and both the wine and dessert lists are substantial. There's an 11:30 - 23:30. (200 - 650Kč). PA International building called ‘at the black horse' where the entrance accompanying bar on the ground floor. QOpen 12:00 - 14:30 Allegro D-2, Praha 1, Veleslavínova 2a, MStaroměstská, does not prepare you for the maze of tiny rooms below. lunch & 18:30 - 22:30 dinner. Closed Sun. 375-685 Kč. JB Kri-Kri J-5, Praha 2, Korunní 48, MNáměstí Míru, tel. tel. (+420) 221 42 70 00, www.fourseasons.com. Prague's The international menu is small but inspired with excellent (+420) 222 540 400, [email protected], www.kri-kri.cz. first, and still only, Michelin Star rated restaurant. The qual- Chateaubriand for two and traditional Czech dishes. Fish Francouzská restaurace F-3, Praha 1, Náměstí It's all Greek to them. From the food to the service, Kri-Kri is ity of the Four Seasons hotel chain is obvious in the classic, and meat is predominantly organic (bio) and the ambience Republiky 5, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 00 27 about as authentic as you can get off the island. Be prepared oak-panelled line of Allegro's interior as well as by the range of is understated and secluded. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. 70, www.francouzskarestaurace.cz. Superb French (and for a long evening and don't go in starving as the service isn't delicious Italian and Bohemian specialties on offer. Their view (300 - 600Kč). AI some Czech) gourmet dishes from this restaurant’s award the best. However, once your food arrives you'll be wallowing of the Vlatava and castle can't be beaten, although their prices winning chefs. Mussels, rabbit, foie gras and duck all make in happiness over their stifado, saganaki and . can. Often named the best restaurant in Prague. QOpen 07:00 U Modré růže E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 16, MMůstek, delightful appearances in one of the world’s masterpieces Their Greek house wines are surprisingly cheap and good. - 23:00, Sun 11:30 - 15:00. (950 - 1,150Kč). PAUEG tel. (+420) 224 22 58 73, www.umodreruze.cz. The of art nouveau architecture (the Municipal House building QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 145-210 Kč. Blue Rose serves refined Czech dishes in an antique set- itself) and interior. Lunch specials and a concert package Ambiente Pasta Fresca F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 11, MNám. ting to make you feel like a lord or lady. The candle-lit 15th lower prices somewhat, and try the Jazz Brunch on the first Olympos K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 9, MJiřího z Poděbrad, Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 23 02 44, www.ambi.cz. This century brick cellar is an ideal place for a romantic dinner Sunday of each month. Q Open 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - tel. (+420) 222 72 22 39, www.tavernaolympos.cz. Right- classic yet laid back Italian serves up delicous and not over-priced with your sweetheart. QOpen 11:30 - 23:30. (350 - 750Kč). 23:00. (600 - 2,000Kč). ABEPU fully the most famous Greek restaurant in Prague. Excellent culinary creations, and the service is superb. Try the carpaccio con AEGP Grecian starters, a haul of fresh seafood, and friendly, hard tartufi to begin and if you make it past the long list of homemade Pálffy Palác B-1, Praha 1, Valdštejnská 14, MMalos- working staff. Superb. And the garden here is one of the best pasta, the steak and salmon are both expertly cooked. Chocolate U Mušketýra I-5, Praha 1, Mezibranská 13, tel. (+420) transká, tel. (+420) 257 53 05 22, www.palffy.cz. The kept secrets in Prague and has a great playground to keep the fondue for dessert is a great finish for a great meal in a great 296 22 00 01, www.musketyr.com. A labyrinthine cellar ambience of this 100% antique, turn-of-the-century dining kids happy. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (200 - 500Kč). TAB restaurant. Check out their excellent lunch deals. QOpen 11:00 space (it can seat up to 200 diners) with eclectic furniture room is shabbily aristocratic, and the clientele seem to feel - 24:00. Café 10:00-24:00 (120 - 350Kč). PAG and good service provides excellent, well-priced Czech the need to keep up appearances. It is, on the other hand, and international dishes. Svíčková and gulaš - topped with the perfect place to ask for the hand of your sweetheart. A Indian Bed Lounge E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 2, MStaroměstská, lashes of freshly grated horseradish - particularly recom- favourite weekend brunch treat, the excellent Indian Jewel I-3, Praha 1, Týn 6, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 43 58, www.bedlounge.cz. Sometimes, mended. Krušovice Mušketýr beer for 18Kč. Lovely... QOpen and pancakes are only surpassed by the stunning tel. (+420) 222 31 01 56, [email protected], www. it's just too much work to sit in a chair and eat. Thank good- 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (95 views of the castle gardens. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (400 - indianjewel.cz. A true jewel in Prague Indian cusine. Flavour ness for Bed Lounge. Its location right off of Old Town Square - 390Kč). B 900Kč). ABGPT is the name of the game here - whether it's their tasty curries, means you can have a meal and take a nap with out missing a kebabs or tandoori specialties; the full spectrum of the Indian sightseeing step. If you are looking to experience this novelty, U Ševce Matouše A-1, Praha 1, Loretánské nám. 4, Sarah Bernhardt I-3, Praha 1, U Obecního domu 1, continent is duly explored. The sag , lamb vindaloo it might be better to just go for a couple of cocktails. The food MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 220 51 45 36, restaurant@ MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 19 59 00, www. and tandoori murgh are especially notable. The head chef menu includes sheet friendly items such as lamb chops with usevcematouse.cz, www.usevcematouse.cz. Matthew sarah-bernhardt.cz. Hotel dining is reaching dizzy heights has worked all over the world; including restaurants in potato puree and spaghetti with and cherry toma- the Cobbler has seen some famous people, like the Spanish in Prague and the art nouveau design of this restaurant is and Thailand, so knows his stuff. Q 180-490 Kč. JAB toes. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 255-485 Kč. JW Queen and the Pitt-Jolie couple. Mere mortals head there for divinely matched by Chef Jan Mošna's inspired menues with the Czech specialities like Svíčková Stroganoff and Staročeská set meals for the undecided or choose from swordfish, turbot bašta, knedlík, zelí (Bohemian plate with dumplings and cab- or rabbit. Visit their famous jazzQ Sunday brunch (12:00 - 16:00, bage.) The beautiful dining room, so close to Prague Castle, 890Kč). Live piano daily. Open 6:30 - 10:00&12:00- CHANCHALA *bar *čoko-fontána *catering *jídlo s sebou *rozvoz jídel *párty na klíč *lekce vaření Q *domácí párty s kuchařem *čajovna *vodní dýmka *orientální hudba *keramika make this a good choice for an elegant Prague night out. 16:00&18:00-23:00. Open 06:30 - 10:00 (10:30 Sat & INDIAN RESTAURANT (169-349 CZK). Sun), 12:00 - 16:00 & 18:00 - 23:00. (500 - 900Kč) (750 PAEG PALLADIUM, Náměstí Republiky 1 - 1,500Kč). 2. (gurmánské) patro U Zlaté konvice E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 26, MStaroměstské, tel. (+420) 224 22 52 93, www. U Malířů B-3, Praha 1, Maltézské nám. 11, MMalos- Za vůní orientu do restaurace CHANCHALA ... Ve stylové restauraci, nesoucí indické ženské jméno Chanchala, na Vás ukonvice.cz. Moderately priced traditional Czech dishes in a transká, tel. (+420) 257 53 03 18, www.umaliru.cz. dýchne pravá atmosféra orientální Indie. Ochutnejte tradiční fabulous, many roomed, authentically decorated cellar space This is one of those restaurants that many acknowledge speciality severní a jižní Indie, připravené indickým šéfkuchařem served up by a slew of avid waiters makes this a great Old is a must-do in Prague as it has the reputation of the best dle vlastních receptur. Town getaway. Use the steps descending from beside the French cuisine in the city. The pedigree is long, the restaurant Enjoy the Chanchala oriental atmosphere ... Grand Café Praha's terrace as the entrance from Melant- was given three stars by an otherwise difficult to please King Get spoiled by the oriental atmosphere! Have a seat and taste the richova is a tad stale. The copper vats hold Pilsner Urquell, and Rudolf II - in 1544, if you please. Go for the sumptuous décor traditional south and north indian specialties made by indian chef of Table reservation: +420 225 771 150 Q www.chanchala.cz, [email protected] here any hope of a cheap session goes up the chimney as a and the ambience of wealth. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (1,200 - his recipes. half litre is 80Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (150 - 295Kč). A 2,000Kč). PTAG

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 30 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 31

Hergetova Cihelna C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 2b, MMalos- Mount Steak D-3, Praha 1, Josefská 1, MMalostran- Pocket Lint transká, tel. (+420) 257 53 55 34, www.kampagroup. ská, tel. (+420) 257 53 26 52, www.mount-steak.cz. Pocket Watch com. Part of the Kampa Group of restaurants, this is a winner Mountains of steak, mountains of choice, mountains of Some useless facts to amaze your family and friends. in every respect. A huge menu of Czech and international fa- choice steak, from the regular beef and pork to the more Interested in learning more about the events and im- vourites tantalises, with great Neapolitan pizza's thrown in for exotic shark and crocodile. This place is for meat lovers, portant places of the Velvet Revolution? While on your • The very first fair in the world took place in August good measure. Sunday brunch with professionals on hand to in case you hadn't noticed, although they do have a very travels through the Nové Město parts of Prague 1, be 1754 in Veltrusy. It was called Veltruský velký trh tovaru look after your kids while you relax. We love it and you will too. limited vegetarian section. QOpen, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, sure to watch the street signs and your maps for these Království českého or The Big Fair of Goods of the Czech Check out the upstairs lounge complete with pool table and big Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. buildings. Most aren’t well-known or particularly of inter- Kingdom in Veltrusy. screen. QOpen 11:30 - 01:00. (70 - 400Kč). PTAEGB (150 - 480Kč). PAG est when strolling by; but they were keeping a watchful • Europe’s only chain bridge can be found over the Lužnice eye over the historical occurrences of that fateful time. River in the South Bohemian town of Stádlec. The bridge Hybernia I-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 7, MNám. Republiky, Nostress E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 10, MStaroměstská, Read a full accounting of events on Page 15. was constructed in the first half of the 19th century and tel. (+420) 224 22 60 04, www.hybernia.cz. To see the tel. (+420) 222 31 70 07, www.nostress.cz. They're is still in use today. wait staff in action is like watching ballet with the fast forward not kidding. With comfortable designer furniture and Corner of Národní třída and Mikulandská: This is the • So-called Burgundy Blue grapes; used to make Pinot button jammed down - understandable when you see the steady ambient music, stress is the last thing on your place where the students met up with the riot police dur- Noir, were imported to Moravia by Charles IV. In Czech, queue at lunchtime. Baked, boiled, fried and grilled meat rules mind. Fusion and Asian cuisine dominate the menu, but ing their peaceful march on November 17th. More than the wine is called Rulandské modré. the realm here whether it be beef, pork, duck or other poultry. you shouldn't pass up a chance to try one of the delicious 165 students were injured with nightsticks wielded by the Vegetarian dishes are also available but we suspect it's just Belgian desserts - the owner is Belgian. Highlights include officers. There is a bronze sculpture commemorating the an attempt to be politically correct. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, dim sum and wontons as well as celebrity sightings (Joseph action under the arches of the restaurant on the corner. Bellevue C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábřeží 18, Sat, Sun 10:30 - 23:30. (100 - 250Kč). PTAEGB Fiennes, Maggie Smith and, er, Begbie). Loud live music on This event came to be known as the “Masakr.” MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 222 22 14 43, www.pfd. Saturday evenings. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600Kč). cz. A fantastic setting, looking out to Charles Bridge, the La Degustation F-2, Praha 1, Haštalská 18, MNám. PAIE Ve Smečkách 26, Činoherní Klub Theatre: Now castle and the Vltava, and a classic atmosphere sets the Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 12 34, www.ladegusta- popularly known as the “strip club street” this theatre scene for you to feel dead posh if you want and if you can tion.cz. This self-styled Bohemian Bourgeoisie restaurant Perfect I-3, Praha 1, Soukenická 4, MNáměstí Repub- is where Václav Havel and other dissidents formed the afford it. Chef Petr Bures prepares dishes like fillet of fallow from the Ambiente Group is a luxurious corner restaurant liky, tel. (+420) 222 31 16 00, www.perfectrestaurant. Civic Forum, a group of individuals who protested the deer with rose hip sauce, caramelised pears, homemade with an open kitchen and a private dining room feel to it. Set cz. A very risky name for a new restaurant, but the cheeky current government and acted as a spokesgroup for spätzle and wild mushrooms. Try their jazz brunch on Sundays. menus intrigue the senses with a heady list of amuse-bouche, guys running this café/restaurant/club certainly have a point. other “like-minded citizens.” After the Masakr, theatres QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 & 17:30-23:00. (1,000 - 2,000Kč). there is a pre- and post-theatre menu, and the sommelier With great breakfast deals, the 195-295Kč eat-all-you-can across Prague cancelled their performances and held PTAUEGB has created a superb wine list. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00, Tue, lunch menus and imaginative a-la-carte dining in the evening, public discussions instead. It was at one of these discus- Wed, Thu 12:00 - 14:30. Closed Sun. (945 - 2,450Kč). A it certainly sounds perfect - there's even a children's menu. sions, on November 19, that Civic Forum was founded. Brasserie Praha I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8 (Prague Mar- After dark, the place transforms into a club with daily DJ music riott Hotel), MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 88 12 La Galerie H-7, Praha 2, Na Slupi 2b, MKarlovo náměstí, and a wide range of cocktails. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30. Closed Václavské náměstí: One of the most recognizable Velvet 12, www.marriottprague.com. This subtle space inside tel. (+420) 236 07 10 28, [email protected], www. Sun. PAGX Revolution sites, mass demonstrations were held practically the Prague Marriott is classy yet laid back. Dishes from the lagalerie.cz;. Simple quality is how best to describe La constantly here from November 18 onwards. For the people open kitchen are simple, delicious and classically interna- Galerie. The menu has a small selection, carefully chosen Pizzeria U Tučňáků Praha 5, Nádražní 19, MAnděl, of Prague, the Wenceslas Monument is a typical meeting tional, heavy on the French. Top choices include the lamb and prepared by Chef Mikuláš Gottwald. Gottwald has worked tel. (+420) 257 31 66 50. Colourful yet sterile, but the point. During the protests, the monument was adorned with shank with creamed spinach and crushed potatoes and the at top British and Austrian restaurants and combines flavors food is well prepared, large and well priced. The pizza oven posters, flags and political slogans. Here also is the Memorial French onion soup. QOpen 06:30 - 11:00 & 12:00-23:00. gloriously. Take the slightly boiled lobster tail with steamed keeps the place warm, although is more than pizza on their to the Victims of Communism. In November 1989, however (195 - 625Kč). AE salad and mango in a cognac mousse, for example. menu. Chicken steak with beautifully poached salmon and there was no memorial here, but the spot has historical Massive wine list too. QOpen 18:00 - 24:00. Czech cuisine is spinach is delicious and comes with a tasty sauce. significance. In 1969 a student set himself on fire here in Černý slon F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 1, MStaroměstská, served from 11:00-23:00; an international menu from 18:00- The plate of chicken, roast broccoli and potatoes au gratin protest of the ongoing Soviet occupation. One month later, tel. (+420) 222 32 15 21, www.hotelcernyslon.cz. 24:00. Starters: 300kč, Mains: 500kč, Desserts: 250kč. a huge meal for 139Kč. Beer is a tad expensive, but the another student did the same. During the events of 1989, For a taste of medieval living, dine below the vaulted ceil- cocktail list makes up for this. Everything is fresh and the students set up a shrine to communist regime victims, and ings of this small restaurant in an ancient building across Le Grill J-3, Praha 1, Hybernská 12, MNáměstí Republiky, staff good. All in all a great place. The interesting looking today you can see the permanent memorial. the narrow street from Týn Church. Feast on wild boar, tel. (+420) 226 22 61 11, www.kempinski-prague.com. A music bar downstairs is open from 16:00 - 04:00. QOpen venison, and classic European dishes or just opt for the magical combination of local and international cuisine, Le Grill, 11:00 - 23:00. (85 - 260Kč). Václavské náměstí 36: What is now a Marks and Spen- Old Town plate consisting of pork, roast duck, , inside the Kempinski Hotel is really pretty good. Yes, it's in a ho- cer was originally the home of the Melantrich Publishing dumplings and cabbage. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (100 - tel, but skip that fact and savor Chef Marek Fichtner advanced Pravda E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská 17, MStaroměstská, tel. House and the Socialist Party newspaper. It was from the 400Kč). PAB kitchen skills. The beef and lamb are both excellent choices (+420) 222 32 62 03, www.pravdarestaurant.cz. Not balconies here that Václav Havel and other dissidents and whatever you do save room for dessert; order pralines and just the name of the old communist party mouthpiece (and addressed the crowds gathered on the Square below. City Cafe Cosmopolit 4-H, Praha 1, Spálená 29, the black forest cake. Q Daily: Breakfast: 7:00-11:00; Lunch: a terrific Tom Stoppard play), but also a successful dining MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 222 54 00 64/(+420) 12:00-15:00; Dinner: 18:00-22:30 360-880kč. PYA room, with huge windows for maximum pose street visibility, Adria Palác, Jungmannovo náměstí: Civic Forum 777 25 39 65, [email protected], www.cafecos- great high white walls and a very enviable mezzanine floor headquarters in the two weeks it took for the Communist mopolit.cz. A pleasant place to wile away some hours; City Mlýnec C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka 9, shaped like a box at the opera. The vichysoisse 165Kč and government to fall. Cafe Cosmopolit offers a kick-back lounge on the ground MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 08 22 08, www. a delicious tagliatelle with parma 245Kč, are very good. floor with a stylish restaurant above. Cuisine is an eclectic pfd.cz. The Mill has the wonderful setting by the tower on Another Tommy Sjöö restaurant. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00. Letná Plain: Site of a massive demonstration that signalled mix of continental, modern Czech and Asian. Of note is their the east end of Charles Bridge, and as such the terrace is a (250 - 600Kč). PAGB the beginning of the end on November 25 & 26. Nearly big sushi selection and wine list; which consists of more than veritable who's who of Prague A-listers. Not surprising when 750,000 people gathered for the demonstrations held here. 50 bottles; all available by the glass. Serves breakfast too. the chef is Marek Purkart, the first man to receive the Michelin Primitiv Pravěk I-5, Praha 2, Sokolská 60, MI.P. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. 115 - 350 Bibendum twice. Sample his grilled New Zealand lamb chops Pavlova, tel. (+420) 224 94 19 38, www.pravek.cz. Kč. TJA with truffle sauce, green broad beans and coucous. Q Open The fourth of these prehistoric themed restaurants that 12:00 - 15:00; 17:30 - 23:00. (600 - 1,500Kč). PAUEB serve slabs of everything from ostrich to game, chicken Esprit Orangerie Praha 4, Na Pankráci 15/1684, to salmon, with more than a little Yabba-dabba-doo. Give MVysehrad, tel. (+420) 296 89 50 30, www.holiday- Monarch E-2, Praha 1, V Kolkovně 6, MStaroměstská, yourself up to total immersion into all things Fred Flintstone inn.cz. Modern Czech and international cuisine served up tel. (+420) 222 31 55 45, [email protected], www.mon- from the faux rock, mammoth tusk décor to the hunter- in a lovely designer space. Esprit Orangerie is a decidedly arch.cz. The Monarch people are all about the wine, so you'll gatherer portions of meat, with signature sauces and different hotel restaurant, worthy of a visit even if you aren't be sure to have an extensive selection to mull over. This is a not many . QOpen 12:00 - 23:30, Mon, Tue staying at the Holiday Inn. Czech specialties like beef and wine bar and a grill so excellent cuisine to accompany your 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. Also at Prague 2, Nezamyslova duck are beautifully presented; and their dessert chef ob- bottle, like steak, fish, pork and chicken. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, 10, tel. 224 93 62 72; Prague 5, Na Bělidle 40, tel. 257 viously enjoys his job. QOpen 06:30 - 23:00. 340-590kč. Sun 17:00 - 22:00. (145-489 CZK) Also operate a wine bar at 32 69 08, Prague 7, Milady Horákové 52, tel. 233 31 08 PTHABS Na Perštýně 15, 224 23 96 02. Open Mon-Sat 12:00-24:00. 84. (80 - 280Kč).

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 32 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 33

Suterén G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo nábř. 26, MNárodí V Zátiší D-3, Praha 1, Liliová 1, MMůstek, tel. (+420) The Czech Menu třída, tel. (+420) 224 93 36 57, www.suteren.com. Featur- 222 22 11 55, www.vzatisi.cz. A restaurant and wine ing such alcohol-flavoured dishes as salmon mojito - marinaded bar that is possibly the best in Prague. Without being The Czech language is notoriously difficult for foreign with Caribbean rum and mint, pheasant on slivovice and even snooty, it manages to serve fabulous and inventive meals tongues to get to grips with, not only for the unusual let- lemon sorbet with vodka, this place is too intriguing to miss. The to a middle-aged crowd of foreigners and locals. Indeed, ters, but also because it is a heavily declined language. eclectic menu lists New Zealand mussels, Moscow , escar- the best things about it (apart from the delicious pear-gor- Your menu will hold various variations on the theme, but got, carpaccio and pasta, plus Thai dishes. In the cellar, modern gonzola salad, the chocolate parfait with raspberries and with the following words as a basis, you should be able furnishings complement the bare brick walls. QOpen 11:30 the perfect latte) are the relaxed, intimate atmosphere, to figure out what’s in your mouth. - 24:00, Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (150 - 320Kč). PA and the waiters who enjoy their jobs and know their wines. Not to be missed. Q Open 12:00 - 15:00; 17:30 - 23:00. bez masa without meat Svatá Klára Praha 7, U Trojského zámku 35, tel. (+420) (600 - 1,500Kč). PAUG biftek 233 54 01 73, www.svataklara.cz. For something com- brambor potato pletely different, descend 16m underground in this natural Zinc I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 7, MNáměstí Republiky, domácí home made cave made into a wine cellar and restaurant. The rough stone tel. (+420) 221 82 23 00, [email protected], www. dušené steamed is cheered up with classical furniture and artworks, and the zinc.cz. Gordon Ramsey moved out and Zinc has moved grilované grilled classy menu features Czech game dishes such as pheasant in. The new Hilton Old Town restaurant replaces Ramsey's guláš goulash, the Czech staple breast with forest herbs and sage. Join the likes of Brangelina short-lived Maze and is promising modern European cuisine and find Svatá Klára near Trojska castle, a short taxi ride from with Asian flavours. That means you can feast on such hermelín brie, often pickled with garlic town. QOpen 18:00 - 00:00. (300 - 1,440Kč). PAI creativities as miso glazed Chilean sea bass or lacquered and eaten with beer Lunch or Dinner duck ravioli and pan-fried foie gras. Executive chef Ari hovězí beef U Dominikána D-3, Praha 1, Jilska 7, MMůstek, tel. Munandar hails from Indonesia and has a well-deserved hranolky chips/ (+420) 224 24 85 55, [email protected], www.savic.eu. A excellent reputation in Prague and elsewhere. A Thai at Art Nouveau Style? jehněčí lamb lovely international mix of cuisine. U Dominikána offers up pastas, sous chef adds to the Asian flair. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. jídelní lístek food menu seafood and Czech dishes in a classy and inviting space. Their Open for breakfast 6:30-10:30 & lunch from 12:00-15:00. jídlo food smoked salmon risotto melts in the mouth, and their traditional 480-680 Kč. knedlíky dumplings Moravian plate offers up a delectable sample of regional special- ties - for those with an appetite. Q 199-595 Kč. JB kuře chicken Italian losos salmon U Emy Destinnové I6, Praha 2, Kateřínská 7, MKar- Amici Miei H3, Praha 1, Vězeňská 5, MStaroměstská, na roštu roasted lovo nám., tel. (+420) 224 91 84 25, u-emydestinnove@ tel. (+420) 224 81 66 88, [email protected], nápojový lístek drinks menu seznam.cz. Built in the birthplace building of the opera star, www.amicimiei.cz. Welcome friends to this Italian oasis in Brasserie Sarah Bernhardt gently and with niva blue cheese U Emy Destinnové is global cuisine at its very best. A cosy Old Town. Located in the heart of the city, but off the typical oběd lunch interior envelopes you and detracts nothing from the menu tourist path means consistent quality food and excellent attentive effortlessness ties French gourmet řízek of steaks, seafood and regional specialties.Q The scallops are service. Seafood lovers should swim in; fish is delivered fresh cuisine and advanced Czech gastronomy ovoce fruit a highlight, as is the grilled eggplant. Open 11:30 - 23:30, every other day. The focus is on traditional Italian favorites in one outstanding experience. Sat 18:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. 180-420kč. and here you can't choose wrong. The linguini with crawfish palačinky crepe or the ravioli with artichokes both get high praise. QOpen Please let us invite you to a table and show pečené baked U Zlaté studně B-1, Praha 1, U Zlaté studně 4, 11:30 - 23:00. 350-850kč. JB how enjoyable dining with us might be! pivní sýr beer cheese, hard and served with MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 33 22, www. and onion, eaten with beer zlatastudna.cz. U Zlaté studně is still making waves in Aromi K-5, Praha 2, Mánesova 78, MJiřího z Poděbrad, plněné stuffed Prague's restaurant scene after a successful opening. Sit- tel. (+420) 222 71 32 22, www.aromi.cz. ‘Simplicity, přílohy side dishes ting high above the city thanks to its roof-top elevation, it tradition, passion' is the Anatevka-like motto of this upmarket polévka soup still manages to snuggle beneath the castle, and the classic Vinohrady's Italian, but there's no fiddling on the roof here. At pstruh trout architectural lines set the scene for quality cuisine and vintage Aromi there's a compact choice of excellent pasta, meat and wines. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (400 - 690Kč). PTAB fish dishes, complemented by an equally good wine list. As a ryba fish result, the spacious L-shaped space holds happy locals and Café de Paris is famous meeting point in town rýže rice Villa Richter Restaurants C1, Praha 1, Staré zámecké expats enjoying the moment. Reservations recommended. whenever it’s business breakfast of friendly sekaná ; looks awful, tastes good schody 6, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 21 90 79, QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (95 - 395Kč). slanina [email protected], www.villarichter.cz. This newly PAG chat over coffee & delicious. smažené fried opened trio of restaurants sits right below Prague Castle in M smažený sýr fried cheese, surprisingly good the recently restored St. Wenceslas' Vineyards. The amazing Giovanni E-3, Praha 1, Kožná 11, Staroměstská, snídaně breakfast view is the main reason to go; the food is way overpriced for the tel. (+420) 221 63 26 05. The bits of exposed rock, svíčková beef in cream sauce quality. Panorama Pergola is a good stopping spot for a glass of the walls and vaulted ceiling of this cosy restaurant are wine or quick bite; small snacks like soups and sausage make a respectable faux medieval. Luckily, the stars, vines and sýr cheese up the menu. Mid-range, price wise is Piano Terra. A huge ter- other painted flora won’t distract you from the menu, which špíz grilled and skewered race and Baroque inside dining room support a menu of mainly is so extensive that we gave up halfway through it. If it’s šunka ham Czech game specialties. The cushiest venue is Piano Nobile Italian and you want it, chances are Giovanni’s got it and těstoviny pasta whose menu includes a variety of seafood and whose seats it’s good. The Balkan breakfast Qsounds appealing, but utopenec a.k.a. drowned man, are madeQ up of large couches outside and a glass-covered avoid the bruschetta at all costs. Open 09:00 - 24:00. pickled sausage, eaten with beer interior. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Piano Nobile: 590-710Kč, Piano (100 - 350Kč). A Terra: 140-280Kč, Panorama Pergola: 80-160Kč. JAB uzené smoked M vařené boiled Kogo E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 27, Můstek, tel. (+420) H-2, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 100, 224 21 45 43, www.kogo.cz. Kogo is one of the best večeře dinner Vltava MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 234 61 41 00, www. restaurants in Prague, for all number of reasons. Location, IN ART NOUVEAU STYLE vepřové pork hotelpresident.cz. The appropriately named restaurant has service, consistent high quality food, and ambience. The HOTEL PARIS ***** vepřové koleno pork knee, panoramic views of the river, a suitably designed interior and atmosphere is trendy and businesslike, full of movers and particularly carnivorous creative menu to match. Steak with roasted shallots served shakers enjoying good pasta, seafood and one of the best U Obecního domu 1, 110 00 Prague 1, Czech Republic vinný lístek wine menu Q with mashed potato, monkfish, TandooriQ and delicious des- wine lists in the city. We love it. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Phone: +420 222 195 195, fax: +420 224 225 475 zelenina vegetables serts to match the good wine list. Open 12:00 - 15:00 & Sun 09:00 - 23:00. Also at F-3, Praha 1, Na příkopě 22 [email protected], www.hotel-paris.cz 18:30-23:30. PTA (Slovansky Dům). (120 - 250Kč). PTAUB

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009

Hotel Paris_Inzerce PIYP_60x185_press.indd 1 20.1.2009 8:53:04 34 RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS 35

and when you see plates piled high, you want to try everything Mash Hana Badeniho 3, MHradčanská, tel. (+420) Food with a view the waiter walks by with anyway. Large floor to ceiling windows 224 32 40 34. Brand-spanking new sushi house right allow air and light to accompany your excellently priced and around the corner from the Hradčanská metro station. TV Il Giardino Praha 5, Mozartova 1 (Mövenpick Hotel), M expertly presented salads, pasta, steaks and even crocodile Warm feelings embrace you as you enter thanks to the Anděl, tel. (+420) 257 15 42 62, www.movenpick- (549Kč). Simple but tasty and cheap. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. welcoming smiles and delicious smells. Sushi is lovingly prague.com. Il Giardino is a hotel restaurant with a little (150 - 500Kč). AS displayed amidst the cozy surroundings of wood, paper flair, created mostly by the rooftop view over Prague, but lanterns and fans. Definitely check it out. QOpen 11:30 also by their varied Mediterranean menu. Q Open 05:30 M PTAUG Mirellie Praha 6, V.P. Čkalova 14, Dejvická, tel. - 22:30. Closed Sun. TOWER - 10:30, 12:00 - 23:00. (400 - 1,000Kč). (+420) 222 95 99 99, [email protected], www.mirel- lie.cz. Mirellie offers an extensive menu served in elegant Nagoya Praha 5, Stroupežnického 23, MAnděl, Pet řínské Terasy A-4, Praha 1, Seminářská zahrada surroundings. The interiors are smooth and classy; an excel- tel. (+420) 251 51 17 24, www.nagoya.cz. The first 13, tel. (+420) 257 32 06 88, www.petrinsketerasy. lent background for their good-sized wine list. Make your genuine Japanese restaurant in Prague. Nagoya comes cz. The restaurant with one of the best views of Prague sits first course a pasta one; perhaps penne with fresh spinach complete with its authentic Japanese chef and food that The highest halfway up Petřín Hill and is furnished in a Slovak country and pesto. Move onto the meat course; beef with garlic and has quickly become very popular with Prague foodies and cottage kind of way. Cuisine is the somewhat traditional rosemary or baked lamb with truffle cream. Seafood and pizza visitors alike. Sushi, sashimi, tempura, noodles... all are international and Czech variety, and live dulcimer music ac- also make the list. If you are in this Prague 6 neighbourhood; here, and all are well done. Thoroughly recommended. companies dinner. Take the funicular to the Nebozizek stop to Q Q Q AIEB make it around a meal time for a visit to Mirellie. Open Open 12:00 - 15:00, 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue. (140 building get here. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (160 - 280Kč). 11:00 - 23:00. 125 - 395Kč. A - 440Kč). AGP M TV Tower K-4, Praha 3, Mahlerovy sady, Jiřího z Osteria De Clara Praha 10, Mexická 7, tel. (+420) 271 Planet Sushi Praha 5, Nádražní 110, MAnděl, in Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 267 00 57 78, www.tower.cz. 72 65 48, [email protected]. A not-so-good location on tel. (+420) 257 28 62 61. An oasis of Japanese Prague’s tallest landmark seems equally loved and hated the Vinohrady/Vršovice border is an unfortunate fact of this calm among the urban bustle of Anděl/Smíchov's busy by residents and tourists. Whichever your decision, the nice Italian eatery. Small menu of basic hearty meals; stuffed thoroughfare, although the ambience is marred slightly view is tremendous and you can eat at the restaurant zucchini, rigatoni ragu, pork fillet. All are well-prepared and by the proximity and shared bathrooms of the adjacent Prague or café while contemplating the reality of vertigo. Prices a relaxed atmosphere makes this an excellent quiet spot. TGI Friday. Attentive staff and complete menu including are higher (boom, boom) than at other, more down-to- Let's hope it doesn't stay too quiet. QOpen 11:30 - 15:00, yami rolls and desserts provide an alternative to the earth spots. You have to pay the 150/75Kč admission 18:00 23:30, Sat 12:00 - 15:00, 18:00-23:30. Closed Sun. Japanese restaurants already in the area. Eat all you fee regardless, but you will get a 5% discount on your Q Q PTAL 130-250Kč. can on Sundays for 600Kč. Open 11:00 - 23:00. bill. Open 11:00 - 23:30. (180 - 350Kč). (200 - 750Kč). PAG Zlatá Praha E-1, Praha 1, nám. Curieových 43/5 Japanese & Korean M M Sushi Bar G-5, Praha 5, Zborovská 49, Anděl, tel. (InterContinental Hotel), Staroměstská, tel. (+420) Hanabi Hibachi House J3, Praha 1, Petrská 11, (+420) 603 24 48 82, www.sushi.cz. The freshest fish for 296 63 09 14, http://www.zlatapraharestaurant.cz. MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 224 32 46 34, www.ihanabi. the best sushi, this place does it - but for a price. Try the sushi From this vantage point you’ll be able to see a fair share of the cz. DIY elegance at this new hidden Japanese joint. Lovely menu for a selection sampler - the three piece Temaki Sushi city’s 100 spires. One the city’s most renowned restaurants, interiors boast warm colors enlivened with bonsai and bam- set and nine piece Sashimi set was handsomely presented Golden Prague offers a changing menu of international and boo trees. Choose shabu shabu or sukiyaki and a selection and deliciously refreshing. Superb service and intimate set- Czech nouvelle cuisine, business lunches for the more budget of fresh, raw vegetables and meats will be brought to your ting make this a continual favourite. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. conscious gourmet, and a Sunday brunch accompanied table; which conveniently has it's own cooker. Prefer to watch (250 - 500Kč). AP by live jazz. QOpen 12:00 - 15:00 & 18:00-23:00. Open PAEGB someone else sweat over the stove? Sit at the bar and order PANORAMIC 12:00 - 15:00; 18:00 - 23:30. (500 - 800Kč). teppan-yaki; literally grilled on an iron plate - and right in front Q J Lebanese M of you. Open 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. 460-1650kč. OBSERVATION DECK Zvonice I-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská věž, Nám. Repub- El Emir Náměstí Republiky 1, MNáměstí Republiky, Open daily: 10.00 a.m. – 11.00 p.m. liky, tel. (+420) 224 22 00 09, www.restaurantz- Korea House I-5, Praha 2, Sokolská 52, MI. P. Pavlova, tel. (+420) 225 771 886, www.palladiumpraha.cz. vonice.cz. If you’re looking for something different and tel. (+420) 224 26 62 46, www.koreahouse.cz. Paper Not that we'd usually recommend dining at a shopping PANORAMIC RESTAURANT don’t have a fear of heights, then head to the top three lanterns illuminate the yellow walls that feature manly Asian centre, but El Emir Lebanese restaurant is something to Air-conditioned floors of this Gothic bell tower, complete with 15th century men wrestling, shouting and smoking. The colourful interior is recommend. The décor was well-thought out; including bell. Zvonice is decorated with giant oak beams and serves as chaotic as the menu which lists both Korean and Japanese curtained partitions to separate you from the throng of Open daily: 11 a.m. – 11.30 p.m. everything from snails, carpaccio, steak and fish to classic specialities such as pibimbap and loads of sushi. A celebrity shoppers. All the Lebanese favs are here plus a variety Reservation tel: +420 242 418 778 Czech dishes. Don’t miss the view from the gallery up top. has left a saucy slogan next to his picture in mysterious of grilled meats and a decent selection of lamb and fish. Gorgeous and exceedingly posh. Lunch menu for 290Kč. Q A characters, but it's all Korean to us. The food is good, but the Plus they have really nice sandwiches; so it's perfect for Open 11:30 - 24:00. (400 - 750Kč). servings could be bigger for all the cabbage one has to pay. a lighter bite of not-mall food. Inside the Palladium mall. PANORAMIC CAFÉ BAR QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (300 - 500Kč). PTA QOpen, Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun Air-conditioned 11:00 - 24:00. 100-370kč. Open daily: 10.30 a.m. – 11.30 p.m. NEW Made In D-3, Praha 1, Křížovnická 4, La Finestra in Cucina D-3, Praha 1, Platnéřská 13, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 608 74 96 50, www.ma- U Cedru Praha 6, Národní obrany 27, MDejvická, MStaroměstská, tel. 222 32 53 25, reservations@ deinjapan.cz. The sushi bar by the Four Seasons captures tel. (+420) 233 34 29 74. A long-timer with a popular- lafinestra.cz, www.lafinestra.cz. Looking into this kitchen the raw tourist with a wide and colourful menu including ity that is thoroughly justified. Well-presented, good value Metro „A“, Stop Jiřího z Poděbrad window (which is a loose translation of the restaurant's name) sashimi and nigri, and eel, while the sister restaurant main dishes are available, while adventurous types can and you'll see a rustic atmosphere and people enjoying some provides tempura and teriyaki. A good combo. A buy two get put themselves in the hands of the waiting staff who will Address: Tower Praha a. s. good cooking. Risotto with truffles and the chocolate cake one free happy hour runs from 15:00 - 18:00 at the sushi make a selection of . QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. with truffles are both outstanding. And if it is meat you be bar. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Also at E-4, Rytířská 10, tel. 224 (200 - 450Kč). APU Mahlerovy sady 1, Praha 3 wanting; a nice man will bring you a platter full of it, for you 235 604. Open 11:00 - 24:00. (100 - 500Kč). AGPS E-mail: [email protected] to select your own veal, beef or what have you. If you really Safir Obchodní centrum Nový Smíchov, Praha 5, want to watch the chefs at work, sit in the back. QOpen Man-na E-1, Praha 1, U Milosrdných 10, MStaroměstská, Plzeňská 8, MAnděl. It's true, Safir is in a mall and it is www.tower.cz 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. 245-495 Kč. tel. (+420) 222 32 01 01. A new Korean restaurant serv- self service, but for vine leaves, hummus, baba gannoush, ing up spicy kimchi, bulgogi (beef BBQ) and other Korean tabouleh, fatoush, and gyros, you cannot complain with Fedération Des Grandes Tours Du Monde La Rustica K-6, Praha 10, Donská 11, MNám. Míru, tel. specialities such as snails and octopus to stir fry and glazed the flavour or price. Hot meals such as grilled fish, chicken World Federation of Great Towers (+420) 271 74 04 74. Homespun charm in this homely Ital- pigs’ feet. If that doesn’t tempt you, perhaps their 500Kč/hr in Mediterranean veggies etc. are daily specials and for the ian with homemade pasta. Garlic is a well-used ingredient, so karaoke room might. Q Open 11:30 - 15:00, 18:00 - 23:00; real fast foodies, grab a sandwich. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. dates should taste each other's dishes to the wealth, 18:00 - 23:00 Sun. (200 - 350Kč). A (45 - 200Kč). PTU

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 inz TV TOWER Prague In Your Poc1 1 17.4.2008 16:34:03 36 RESTAURANTS

Medieval Middle Eastern Cartouche E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 14, MStaroměstská, Babylon I-7, Pod Karlovem 12, MI. P. Pavlova, tel. tel. (+420) 224 81 95 97, www.cartouche.cz. A dark (+420) 222 56 10 21, www.restaurace-babylon.cz. dungeon of delights awaits you, full of big and busty spit- It's Greek, it's Italian, it's steak, it's fish. Babylon may roasted or barbequed bones and live medieval music. Hale, be trying to appeal to all people, and they actually are hearty and heavy - the food and the furniture. Enjoy, but go doing a fairly good job of it. One of the newer restaurants hungry. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. in Vinohrady, its out of the way location may prevent An Exquisite Indian & Mughlai Restaurant (300 - 600Kč). AI people from stumbling onto it; but if you are staying/ visiting around the Vinohrady or Nusle area you should with visual preparation of Tandoori Food! U Císařů Praha 1, Loretánská 5, tel. (+420) 220 51 definitely stop by. Main meal dish portions are very gener- 84 84, www.ucisaru.cz. Top-class medieval dining in the ous, salads a bit on the smaller size. The Greek items are centre of cobbled, old world Prague. A beautiful Gothic wine usually the best; however the quality and presentation cellar is at your disposal to really make you feel that your are quite high for everything we've seen. Oh, and the staff rightful place is down the road at the castle. The chefs is pleasant and accommodating. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. have catered various state dinners, and the prices tend 120-370kč. PA to illustrate this. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (250 - 950Kč). PAILEB Dahab E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 82 73 75, www.dahab.cz. Escape the U Sádlů I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 2, MNám. Republiky, Baroque and step into this cool oasis of masterful mosa- tel. (+420) 224 81 38 74, www.usadlu.cz. Gargantuan ics, oriental carpets and sweet tobacco smoke bubbling medieval banqueting (with appropriate carnivorous leanings from water pipes. Dishes run the gamut of Middle Eastern as well as great fish) served by buxom Hell's Angels in a delights and drinks are concocted from recipes gathered cavernous remake of the set of Monty Python and the Holy from around the globe. Authenticity's evil side is witnessed Grail. Tankards of ale slapped down in front of you until you in the squat toilet offered to horrified tourists (there are scream 'when!' and indulge your Ivanhoe fantasies. Book Western alternatives). QOpen 14:00 - 01:00. (65 - 330Kč). early or take a battering ram. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun PTAEGS 12:00 - 24:00. Also at J-5, Praha 2, Balbínova 22. (150 - 300Kč). PAI Metropol Music Cafe I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 12, MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 775 322 895, metropol@Pra- U Sedmi Švábů A-2, Praha 1, Jánský vršek 14, haEntertainment.com, www.metropol-prague.com.. MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 14 55, info@ They bill themselves as an Oriental restaurant - the menu svabove.cz, www.svabove.cz. Yet more medieval she- boasts a variety of yummy dishes like hummus, falafel, nanigans in the requisite cellar space where fire-eating, chicken masala and beef fillet. We are very impressed with dueling and even torture takes place as you dine. Traditional Chef Sunny Passi - he's got a way with flavors. The restaurant recipes employing only authentic 15th and 16th century is above a café and music club; but no loud music worries, ingredients means no tomatoes or potatoes. Fun, games the restaurant is glass enclosed. QOpen 09:00 - 03:00. and lots of meat. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (70 - 450Kč). 110Kč-545Kč. JAE AEGIP Pizza Mexican & Tex-Mex Coloseum I-4, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 8, MMůstek, tel. Amigos J-5, Praha 2, Anny Letenské 16, MNám. Míru, (+420) 224 23 83 55, www.pizzacoloseum.cz. A pizza- tel. (+420) 222 25 05 94, www.amigos.cz. The menu maker slaving away in front of the flames of a wood-burning Open daily 11-23, Týn 6, Prague 1 – Old Town, tel: 222 310 156, Mob: 725 107 059, is enormous, amusing, and with some topless shots to oven is the only spectacle you'll witness at this coliseum. Fax: 224 248 558, [email protected], www.indianjewel.cz keep you turning the pages. The spice in the air and eyes Sample excellent pastas and made with real mozzarella bodes well for chilli-ed authenticity. Chimichanga is as tasty in a rustic setting. Try the Calabrese, it's what Yanks call a as it's fun to say, steaks are large and tender, vegetarian pepperoni pie. QOpen 11:00 - 23:30. Also at F-3, Vodičkova options abound, cocktails are cheap and delivery is avail- 32. (100 - 200Kč). PAB able. What more do you want? QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (50 - 160Kč). ES Giallo Rosa F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 2, MNám. Repub- liky, tel. (+420) 604 89 89 89. This small take-away place Azteca B-4, Praha 1, Říční 9, tel. (+420) 257 32 73 decked out in football scarves serves the closest thing to a 89, www.azteca.cz. The menu offers the standard Mexican New York-style pizza that we’ve seen in Prague. What’s more fare with drinks in the same vein: mojitos and margaritas, in amazing is that it also providesQ as much oregano and spicy fact, the bar does a fair business on its own, apart from the oil as you need, gratis. Open 11:30 - 24:00, Fri 11:30 - An Exquisite blend of aromatic spicy food on offer in the restaurant. Excellent, spicy nachos. 02:00, Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (From 25Kč/ Although we're not too sure about the OTT neo-Alamo décor, slice). AGS continental and Czech cuisine Azteca offers good fajitas, enchiladas and quesadilla, along with over 25 types of tequila. Lunch menu 70Kč but there’s Gusto J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 83, MJiřího z – in the heart of Prague! nothing Mexican on it. Good wine list, Staropramen for 25Kč Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 222 21 13 16, www.gusto.cz. A and Corona 70Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (70 - 380Kč). A long empty primo location on Vinohradska has been brightly filled by this massive pizza place, where the relatively high Open daily 11-23 Cantina A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 38, MMalostranská, tel. prices are testament to the rent. Lunch specials don’t (+420) 257 31 71 73, www.restauracecantina.cz. A inspire, but the pizzas are well topped. Pasta purports to Jilská 7, Prague 1 – Old Town warm and atmospheric Mexican, serving Texan-sized portions be fresh… A cool kids spot at the back will keep them en- tel: 221 089 888 of decent grub and small swimming pool sized margaritas that tertained for hours, and if you’re looking for a place to have slip down far too easily. The fajitas are excellent, although we a private party, the cellar is the place. Nothing to write home fax: 224 248 558 suggest you may want some extra to add some zing. about, but popular nonetheless. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00. (120 - 300Kč). AEB (90 - 380Kč). ST [email protected] www.savic.eu Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com 38 RESTAURANTS www.grandhotelpraha.cz Accommodation opposite the Astronomical clock

Kmotra H-5, Praha 1, V Jirchářích 12, MNárodní NEW třída, tel. (+420) 224 93 41 00, www.kmotra.cz. The SaSaZu K-1, Praha 7, Bubenské nábřeží 306, MVl- Godmother gathers extensive broods around her ankles tavská, tel. 284 09 74 44, [email protected], www. as she hands down the old family recipe for making great sasazu.com. Hip and stylish new Thai/Asian restaurant in pizzas from a wood-burning oven. Expect to jostle for a the always emerging Holešovice district. The wow factor of place with the other waifs and strays in need of the loving the décor hasn't yet transferred to the menu or service; which care that is meted out here. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. Also right now we'll generously put down to growing pains. Current at Praha 5, Jindřicha Plachty 27. Open 11:00-24:00. (100 - notables include the Thai papaya salad; Ga , SaSa crispy 200Kč). PAS roll and the red beef curry. Maybe skip dinner and just hit the other half of the reconstructed warehouse building; which is Pizza Nuova Praha 1, Revoluční 1, MNám. Repub- a dance club. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. 110-295 Kč. AEK liky, tel. (+420) 221 80 33 08, www.ambi.cz. The Ambiente group turn their talented hands to this eat all NEW you can antipasti and/or pizza & pasta restaurant. Well Sawadi Praha 10, Kodaňská, MNám Míru, tel. 241 74 planned location adjacent to the massive shopping centre, 28 88, [email protected]. No one is going to rave about the the Palladium, set to open late 2007. A huge restaurant Thai food in Prague; however Sawadi is a tasty addition. Here with trestle type seating, Ambiente's trademark flair and you'll get some spicy flavor lacking at many other Thai restau- GRAND an extensive Italian and Czech wine list. QOpen 11:30 - rants; anything chili-based is worth ordering if you need some 23:30. APT heating up. Tom Yam Gung soup; Sen Lek pad Thai and the “fire pot” entrees are all recommended. Look carefully for the Rugantino E-2, Praha 1, Dušní 4, MStaroměstská, tel. entrance and don't expect a lush dining room. But do enjoy what (+420) 222 31 81 72, www.rugantino.cz. Great pizzas will be a delicious meal. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. 140-230 Kč. and quick service make this a popular eatery with the lunch- hotelPRAHA time office crowd. Classic Italian would be preferable to the Siam Orchid I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 21, MNám. Republiky, GRAND hotel PRAHA Staroměstské náměstí 22 modern décor, but that's just ourQ opinion. On weekends the tel. (+420) 222 31 94 10, www.siamorchid.cz. Evocative Grand hotel Praha is the only hotel offering a magical view place is much more laid-back. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sun aromas entice to this hidden first floor restaurant. While the 110 00 Praha 1 12:00 - 23:00. (100 - 250Kč). PAUG authenticity of the place is not added to by the décor, the Thai of a unique historical sight, The Old Town Astronomical massage next door (600Kč/hr), Singha beer and mention of Clock, from its windows. farangs on the menu point to a real Thai dining experience. And Reception: +420 221 632 556 (557) Seafood the food doesn’t disappoint. A true and delicious slice of Siam in a M Q B Hotline: +420 606 600 583 Reykjavík D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 20, Staroměstská, very Czech courtyard. Open 10:00 - 22:00. (120 - 200Kč). Grand hotel Praha presents high standards of comfort tel. (+420) 222 22 12 18, www.reykjavik.cz. A plush, dark Fax: +420 221 632 558 wooden interior sets the scene for you to experience some e-mail: [email protected] and luxuriously furnished rooms. of the best seafood available in Prague. We can recommend Vegetarian the 'fruit of the sea' soup or the tenderloin of tuna. QOpen Beas F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 19, MStaroměstská, tel. 11:00 - 24:00. (250 - 600Kč). ABEPT (+420) 608 03 57 27, www.beas-dhaba.cz. Original Indian metal trays hold your chosen veggie menu - small or large curry Rybí trh E-2, Praha 1, Týnský dvůr 5, MStaroměstská, meal, noodles, parantha menu, the massive thali and more. www.grandcafe.cz tel. (+420) 224 89 54 47, www.rybitrh.cz. Without a Desserts and lassi are also available and tables have jugs GRAND doubt, this restaurant is a fish-lover's paradise. With a choice of free water to quench the small fires the somewhat spicy from live or freshly imported fish, one can swim through this dishes produce. Excellent and deservedly popular. QOpen menu with delight knowing whatever is chosen will truly 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. (70 - 130Kč). PGBS PRAHA satisfy. Chef Pavel Mares works his magic on the Caribbean Lobster, fresh from the aquarium in any style. St. Jacob's Country Life E-3, Praha 1, Melantrichova 15, MMůstek, scallops is a speciality only to be savoured,Q and the imperial tel. (+420) 224 21 33 66, www.countrylife.cz. From humble café mussels truly deserve their name. Open 11:00 - 24:00. beginnings as a take-away bar, this place is packed at lunchtimes (190 - 890Kč). AG with long queues at the caféteria-style counter. That's because even non-vegetarians are impressed by the salads, pizza and soups. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Fri 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 11:00 - 20:30. Thai Closed Sat. Also at H-4, Jungmannova 1. (75 - 150Kč). GPTU Modrý zub F-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská 5, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 21 26 22, www.modryzub.com. The Blue Maitrea E-2, Praha 1, Týnská 6, MStaroměstská, tel. Tooth looks like an Ikea café until you notice the bowls of spicy (+420) 221 71 16 31, [email protected], www. noodles and curry being served by cheerful waitresses and maitrea-restaurant.cz. Maitrea is the sister vegetarian restau- devoured by happy punters. This noodle bar takes Thai fast rant to the widely popular Lehka Hlava. Located in Old Town, they food to a higher level with delicious curries, made to order currently have a rather small menu, but an excellent lunch special glass, rice and yellow noodle dishes, sushi, maki, soups and consisting of a rotating soup, main and water for 105 Kč. Their salads. Excellent service, lovely spot, NYC carton take out décor is a bit tamer than their wilder sister, but the same fresh boxes. Oh, and hot means hot. Blue is a theme: sister venues quality and inventiveness is here. The couscous with broccoli are similarly cool Ultramarin and Blue Light. Q Open 09:00 and fennel is fabulous, as is the baked vegetables with pesto. - 23:00. Thu, Fri & Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (60 - 180Kč). TS QOpen 11:30 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:30. 100-140 Kč.

NOI A4, Praha 1, Újezd 19, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) Veg Food Praha 2, Londýnská 35, MIP Pavlova, tel. 257 31 14 11, [email protected], www.noirestau- (+420) 222 51 50 06/(+420) 721 25 52 53, info@ GRAND café PRAHA rant.cz. A serene Thai restaurant, and thank goodness for vegfood.cz, www.vegfood.cz. A new and welcome non- Grand cafe´s cakes will warm your heart and make every that. Quality Thai food is often hard to find here, but NOI meat addition to the pork-heavy dining scene. Veg Food is Staroměstské náměstí 22 brings authentic Thai chefs to prepare its tom yam koong, fairly Asian, with many soy and meat alternatives. The 110 00 Praha 1 occasion special. khao pad koong and khao pad kai.Q Lovely staff and a Zen flavors are mild, but you will taste them; vegetables are fresh interior complete the experience. Open 9am - midnight. and the staff is welcoming. Seek it out, even carnivores will Telefon: +420 221 632 520 (522) 150-290kč. PAGBXS be pleased. QOpen 10:30 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:30 - 21:30. We want to do everything possible to make your visit to Fax: +420 221 632 521 Grand cafe Praha the best it can be. e-mail: [email protected] Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com 40 CAFÉS CAFÉS 41

Au Gourmand E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 10, MStaroměstská, Coffee Fellows E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 20, Káva Káva Káva G-6, Praha 5, Lidická 42, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 222 32 90 60. Small cafe with superior pastries, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 02 00, www.coffee- www.kava-coffee.cz. The future of the café for Prague savouries and tortes plus many more items to slimline your fellows.cz. Famous for their pastries, tea, coffee and syrups. with internet in the back (free 15 minutes with purchase), wallet and expand your waistline, but, as Kenny Everett said, it Sandwiches, bagels, cookies etc. all vie for your attention but Wi-Fi all over and superlative staff. Czech or English, is done “in the best possible taste.” Despite Prague’s growing try the caramel slice for a taste of heaven with some toffee it matters not for these always happy-to-serve girls. café culture, baked items have always remained below par con- mixed in. Seating is high and low, the few armchairs have Smoothies and café frappés along with cheap Czech Mex sidering historical links and geographical proximity to Vienna and their backs to the room and the banquette seating proves a standards make up the menu after the more usual cakes Au Gourmand makes a lovely change. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, tad uncomfortable. There is little privacy too, but it is tasty. and bagels. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Fri 07:00 - 24:00, Sat Sat 8:30 - 19:00, Sun 9:00 - 19:00. Also at Au Gourmand Rive QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PABW 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00. Also at (E-4), Národní Gauche, C-2, Praha 1, U lužického semináře 23, tel. 257 53 24 34. 31. (40 - 250Kč). W Coffeeheaven E-1, Praha 1, Pařížská 1, Café Café E-4, Praha 1, Rytířská 10, MMůstek, tel. MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 19 67, www. Kavárna Obecní Dům Náměstí Republiky 5, MNáměstí (+420) 224 21 05 97, www.cafe-cafe.cz. Slap bang in the coffeeheaven.cz. While Starbucks is snoozing in Seattle, a Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 00 27 63, kavarna.od@ middle of tourist central, but far cooler than many cafés in the cunning Polish franchise outfit has sneaked a large number vysehrad2000.cz, www.vysehrad2000.cz. Come for the area. Café Café is a well-known gay hangout, but it also attracts albeit somewhat faceless cafés into Prague. The coffee atmosphere as well as the treats. This Art Nouveau café on hetero hipsters who look the look, talk the talk and wear the ware. comes in paper cups and ranges from 32Kč for an espresso the ground floor of Obecní Dům is one of the most elegant Coffee, cocktails, large salads and the Mediterranean menu to 84Kc for the large white chocolate mocha. The sandwiches, in town. You’ll be treated to nice service amidst beautiful provide lubrication and sustenance. Breakfast served everyday and cakes are tasty and reasonably priced, and there’s surroundings, and we dare you to turn your head when they until 12:30. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (150 - 350Kč). AB a 120Kč breakfast offer. QOpen 08:30 - 21:00. Also at E-4, start wheeling the cake cart around. A breakfast menu, plus Praha 1, Na příkopě 3, Palác Flóra & I-4, pasáž Rokoko, Praha sandwiches and salads make this a good break point no Café Imperial I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 15, MNám. Republiky, 1, Václavské nám., tel. 224 2 4 70 61. PAGS matter what time of day. QOpen 7:30 - 23:00. 90-470Kč. tel. (+420) 246 01 14 40. After a long facelift, the landmark JAEB Imperial has reopened with the Art Nouveau tiles and wood Cukrkávalimonáda B-2, Praha 1, Lázeňská 7, tel. carvings still in situ within the high ceiling-ed rooms. The stale (+420) 257 53 06 28. A small café which adopts an evening Kavárna Pavilon J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 50, donuts have sadly not reappeared but the beautiful and historic menu at 18:00 and produces delicious meals such as chicken MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 09 72 01, www.ambi.cz. space is well worth visiting for breakfast, a sandwich or meal (chef breast with prosciutto and mozzarella on balsamic The Ambiente group are trying to make a go of the café space Zdeněk Pohlreich hails from the Radisson SAS Alcron and Marriott), and fresh baby spinach to go with some superb (but spendy) in Vinohrady’s beautiful though hardly successful old market although reviews have been hit and miss. A decent cocktail list will new world wines. Daytime offerings are just as tasty from space. Cafés and shops have come and gone, but Ambiente’s keep you here late. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. (130 - 400Kč). PA the breakfast menu to pancakes, sandwiches and home- excellent standards could be the winning combination. A wide made pasta. As relaxed as the beautifully tranquil square range of breakfast (e.g. soft boiled eggs in a cup), pastries and Café Jungmann E-4, Jungmannovo nám. 7, Prague 1, it is located on. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. small meals to accompany Wi-Fi and newspapers. QOpen MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 22 01 61. A dark pub has been (80 - 350Kč). PG 08:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. W transformed into this Ikea-styled café well-located to attract tired shoppers and tourists from Wenceslas Sq. Neutral tones DISK Café D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 26, MStaroměstská, Ouky Douky Praha 7, Janovského 14, MVltavská, tel. and MTV beats on the plasma screens join sandwiches, sal- tel. (+420) 221 11 10 65. A superior café on the Royal Globe H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 6, MNárodní třída, (+420) 266 71 15 31, www.oukydouky.cz. Holesovice’s ads, crepes and a few steak/fish mains in their tasty menu. Way belies its sleek design by actually being the café for the tel. (+420) 224 93 42 03, www.globebookstore.cz. happiest corner is somewhat like an expat hangout minus Soups are delicious if tepid and the daily special is excellent DISK Theatre, the place of study for the Czech Academy of The Globe provides a sophisticated atmosphere to meet the expats – it’s up to you to decide if that’s a good or bad value. New world wines attract the interest when .3 of Pilsner Performing Arts (DAMU). Join wannabe thesps, stage hands other enlightened souls. Darker walls indicate an edgier thing. The cosy bar sells good coffee and simple meals, sells Urquell is 50Kč. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (80 - 250Kč). AW and directors for well-priced (especially when you consider the characterisation to this bastion of expat life which had books (mostly Czech), has internet at 90Kč/hr and occasion- location) sandwiches, salads and calorie-laden but superb become a tad stuffy in its middle age. The good food, ally throws a party. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Café Louvre D-4, Praha 1, Národní 22, MNárodní třída, desserts. A full bar is of course available too - Staropramen books (new and second-hand) and internet café remain tel. (+420) 224 93 09 49, www.cafelouvre.cz. In true French is 40Kč. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (85 - 115Kč). but now we also have Gambrinus on tap as well as live Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymská 12, tel. style, this historic café is for anything but bourgeois tastes. music and events spicing things up. QOpen 9:30 - 01:00. (+420) 271 74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thousands of Café Louvre is a true slice of Czech life where a great breakfast Ebel E-3, Praha 1, Týn 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) (40 - 120Kč). AUE handpicked new and used English titles, earnest poetry and is served that one can enjoy with an international newspaper. 224 89 57 88, www.ebelcoffee.cz. Some of the best cof- prose readings and performance, newspapers, chess and Whether you want to play a game of pool in the swank billiard hall fee in town, sandwiches and salads, plus excellent smoothies Grand Café Praha E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. backgammon, Bernard beer, some funky original art and or indulge in some fresh pastries over coffee, this is the perfect and cheesecake to die for. Wooden warmth inside beckons 22, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 221 63 25 22, www. mosaics, plus coffee, tea and cakes. Tram N°4, 22 or 23 to place to have a great café experience. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, you in the winter months, and in the evenings you’ll be ser- grandcafe.cz. The Grand Café produces cakes, tortes and the Krymská stop. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Also at C-2, U Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:30. (100 - 500Kč). PTAG enaded by some good jazz from Ungelt in the basement. other sweet delicacies for clock-watchers on Old Town Square lužického semináře 10. E Beware of wandering stag parties from Legends across and for visiting dignitaries at the castle. QOpen 07:00 - Café Savoy G-5, Praha 5, Vítězná 5, MAnděl, tel. the square. Check out their shop almost next door. QOpen 22:00. (95 - 490Kč). A Slavia C-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 1, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 257 31 15 62, www.ambi.cz. A fabulously restored 09:00 - 22:00. (60 - 160Kč). Also at D-2, Karprová 11, open (+420) 224 21 84 93. Slavia is a throwback to days gone grand café dating back to 1893 with a particularly stunning 08:00 - 19:00; D-3, Řetězová 9, open 08:00 - 20:00. TAB Grand Café Orient F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19, by with a beautiful art deco interior and photos of celebrity neo-Renaissance ceiling. Sit under the chandeliers to order MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 22 42 40, www. patrons. Its location can’t be beaten, with large windows food from the café menu with traditional Czech dishes or from Espressamente Illy I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 8 (Prague grandcafeorient.cz. The first floor of the Cubist House of the open to Národní Divadlo and the Vltava. Service is fine, but the more elaborate French gourmet menu. Don’t skip the Marriott Hotel), MNáměstí Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 Black Madonna is home to a truly unique Cubist-style café that you can sit here for quite a while without purchasing much pastries and cakes that are made on the premises though. 881 258, www.marriottprague.com. Open for breakfast or was reconstructed from photographs to match the one that from the very well-priced menu. Good coffee, tasty meals, Great for a lazy breakfast with a newspaper too. QOpen lunch; the new Espressamente Illy promises authentic Italian was here from 1911 until the 1920s. Even café-capital Vienna snacks and pastries are all available. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. 08:00 - 22:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 22:30. (140 - 300Kč). AP Espresso and cappuccino. Located in the Prague Marriott doesn’t have one of these. The simple menu lists pancakes, (45 - 320Kč). PAU Hotel, it has a street entrance on V Celnici. Offering 20 kinds sandwiches and some good coffee. Try to get a seat on the Cigars and Coffee I-4, Praha 1, Vodíčkova 39, MMůstek, of Illy coffee for your morning meetings, plus pastries and light balcony overlooking Celetná street. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Yessi Café I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 94 91 33, www.coffeeandcigars.cz. snacks; it’s a quiet place in a busy neighbourhood. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. AP tel. (+420) 222 21 25 85, www.yessicafe.cz. From the Orange theme, white leather, Očko on TVs, cinematic images makers of Pravda, Hot and Bellevue comes a casual café of the eponymous objects (and others beginning with a C) line Face Cafe F-2, Náměstí Republiky 1, MNáměstí Repub- Karlín London J-3, Praha 8, Sokolovská 32, MFlorenc. for the masses. Purple and green dominate the upholstered this ubercool café near Cinema Světozor. The expanse of glass liky. The place to show your face. Quite an upscale café for a This café serves up excellent cakes, pancakes and ice cream sofas and stools. Smoothies and juices are sadly pre-made, leads to perfect people watching, but the media types inside mall, but with a coffee, wine and cocktail list as long as theirs, with cheblíčký being the only savoury offerings. The oddity sandwiches too for the lunch rush but you can also build don’t want to do the watching. Breakfast, cakes, , it’s a worthwhile trip. They’ve taken the theme seriously; the here is the London murals, the faux double-decker bus, plus your own. Italian water ups the price, but the veggie and salads, pasta and even steaks are small and tasty but slightly menu is framed and the walls are covered with head shots. Winston Churchill and the Queen watching you sip your coffee, hummos sandwich (99Kč) is superb. Alcohol and Illy coffee overpriced (100 - 240Kč). But if you want cool, you’ve got to be Sit inside along the window and stare at the faces shopping while the bathroom entrance is through the red phone box. also served. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 9:00 - 18:00, Sun wiling to pay for it. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. W below. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Q (40 - 150Kč). 10:00 - 18:00. PBS

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009

D D

D 42 CZECH SPAS CZECHD SPAS 43

Historically, Czech spas have more of a healing reputation LÁZNĚ LIBVERDA, a.s. č.p. 82 over a relaxing one. People with a variety of ailments would 463 62 Hejnice spend a week or two at a spa and under the supervision tel.: 482 368 100–102 of a doctor, follow a specific regiment that included lots mobil: 731 957 326 of bathing and drinking of the local water. Different spas [email protected] are known for specializing in various diseases; Lázně Libverda in the Jizera Mountains for example is focused on treating heart and blood circulation diseases. Czech health insurance used to cover these stays; but not so much anymore. Spas are revamping their programs a bit to add wellness stays in the hopes of attracting people looking for relaxation weekends. When researching a weekend at a Czech spa, always look for their wellness offerings and be sure to ask specific questions about what a particular L treatment entails. ÁZ A From west to east you’ll find a plethora of interesting N RD treatments, historic buildings and fun towns. Many of the D Ě LIBVE larger spa towns have a variety of tourism offerings and, as most are located near mountains, hiking and biking in the summer and skiing in the winter are all distinct CENTER OF SPAS, RELAXATION AND SPORT possibilities. Special off er – 6900 CZK for 2 persons Lázně Libverda Karlovy Vary is the most well-known and visited of all the 8 day stay including half board and 4 procedures Bad Liebwerda country’s spa towns. The city dates back to King Charles’ We also off er: IV time when, as the story goes, he and his entourage • Week and weekend stays PRAHA Liberec accidently stumbled upon a thermal spring. He proclaimed • Hotel accommodation Relaxing all over the country it had curative powers and, in true King Charles style, had • Wellness centre: full packs in leaves, honey and chocolate packs… České Budějovice Taking to the waters for healing and relaxation has a long a town built around the spring. Fast forward a bunch of • Gift packages for your closest friends history in the Czech Republic. Springs of mineral and thermal years and you can easily see walking through town the water can found in various parts of the country. Most famous influence Art Nouveau had on 19th century architects. is the so-called spa triangle in west Bohemia; comprised of The Mill Colonnade, Emperor’s Baths and the Thermal the cities of Karlovy Vary, Františkovy Lázně and Mariánské Spring Colonnade were built then. At the beginning of the www.lazne-libverda.cz Lázně. Located an easy train ride from Prague; the region 20th century, Karlovy Vary was one of the most popular makes an excellent extension to your Prague visit. spa cities in Europe. Two world wars and Communism

saw a decline in its fortunes, with the state regulating all a different sort. This is a so-called dry spring; basically facilities and tourists primarily limited to Russians. You’ll pockets of carbon dioxide. The gas is captured and used Services provided by the Information Centre of still see a heavy Russian influence in the architecture in a variety of balneology treatments. If you want some and language translations. Here, the spa treatments are true cures in the area, stay at LS Royal Mariánské Lázně. best for those with digestive, motor system or metabolic Here you’ll find beautiful buildings in a forested area, Karlovy Vary Information Centre of Karlovy Vary disorders. Richmond Hotel is a stunning property located still close to the main colonnade. Either the wellness Ñâ鷝¨±¯­°²²°¯®®´³ª´©ÃÞõ·¨±¯­°²²°¯®®´² on the outskirts of Karlovy Vary for a more peaceful stay. programme or the anti-stress programme should have æëãìàâëñïòê½èÞïéìóöªóÞïö«à÷©ôôô«èÞïéìóöªóÞïö«à÷ Those looking for relaxation can stroll through the hotel’s you leaving better than when you arrived. English-style park, complete with a Japanese garden for meditation. The hotel offers a variety of relaxation In the Krkonoše foothills you’ll find nestled the charming programmes, including anti-ageing treatments, beauty town of Lázně Bělohrad, famous for its hot curative peat. weeks and relaxing days. Surrounded by the Bažantnice nature park you are sure to find peace and relaxation; not to mention some top-quality НÆëãìïêÞñæìëìëñåâàæñö There are 20 springs in Františkovy Lázně used for both cures at Anenské slatinné lázně. НÆëãìïêÞñæìëìëàòéñòïÞéÞëáðíìïñðâóâëñð bathing and drinking. The mineral water is alkaline and НÐÞéâìãðìòóâëæïð salty; and can have a strong laxative effect. Different Teplice in north Bohemia is the oldest spa in the Czech НÐÞéâìãæëãìïêÞñæìëêÞñâïæÞéð springs produce different results; Church Spring water Republic, and one of the oldest in Europe. Legend has НÐÞéâìãñïæíð is known to help mild digestive problems while the water it that the hot springs here were accidently discovered Н¾áóÞëàâðÞéâìãñæàèâñð from Ferrous Spring is rich in iron and good for exhaustion by a farmer back in 762. Archaeological finds though ĐÑ¾ÕÃÏ and anaemia. The city has a good reputation; both Ludwig date people in the region to about the 11th century. НÀÞïïâëñÞ驝ñïÞëðãâïð van Beethoven and Johann Strauss stayed here. Active The name itself is derived from the warm springs; НÄòæáâðâïóæàâð types will appreciate the relatively new Aquaforum. teply means hot in Czech. Natural mineral water at НÄòæáâáñìòïð Designed in a Roman bath setting, there are four indoor a temperature of 39 Celsius is the primary healing Н¾ííâÞéæëäðæäåñðââæëäñìòïð and three outdoor swimming pools, sauna, slides and treatment here; used for locomotion, nervous and НÂõàåÞëäâìãĉàâðâïóæàâôæñåìòñàìêêæððæìë other attractions. psychological disorders. Н¾ïïÞëäæëäÞààìêêìáÞñæìëãìïäïìòíðÞëáæëáæóæáòÞéð Н¾ïïÞëäæëäàÞñâïæëäãìïäïìòíð Mariánské Lázně is overflowing with springs: 40 in the НÐâïóæàâðàìëëâàñâáôæñåæëàâëñæóâÞëáàìëäïâððñìòïæðê city and 60 more in the surrounding countryside. Each spring is quite particular, however all have very high carbon dioxide levels and most are also iron rich. The most famous spring is the Křížový, streaming out in 'DQäLNHã the main colonnade below Masarykova Street. It’s very salty and may have a laxative effect. In the pavilion of the courtyard of the Central Bath, you’ll see a spring of

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 44 CZECH SPAS CZECH SPAS 45

In South Bohemia, you’ll find the lovely spa and fish town of Aquaforum Františkovy Lázně Třeboň. Probably more famous for its carp ponds (a good Ulice 5. května 19 portion of the traditional Czech Christmas dinner of carp 351 01 Františkovy Lázně comes from this region), Bertiny lázně is famous for its peat Tel: +420 354 206 500 baths. The locally gathered peat is excellent for injured [email protected] bones, muscles and joints. Located just outside the city’s www.aquaforum.info main square, Bertiny is a lovely place to relax and rejuvenate. Tourist info: www.frantiskovylazne.cz

Bechyně is located south of Prague along the Lužnice River. Bertiny lázně Třeboň The city is ceramics central and charming while the spa is ultra Tylova 1 379 15 Třeboň modern. Arthritis suffers and those with other joint or muscle Tel: 384 754 111 problems will appreciate the skilled and dedicated hands Fax: 384 754 461 working here. Weight loss and beauty stays can also be had. [email protected] www.berta.cz Heading farther east and north, Lázně Libverda is perfectly situated for those wanting to have active days and restful Lázně Bechyně nights. Lots of marked hiking and biking trails criss-cross 391 65 Bechyně č. 202 the region; and a soak in the therapeutic pool filled with Tel: 381 476 100 the local mineral water will soothe those aching muscles. A Fax: 381 213 734 mineral analysis of the water done in the late 1700s found [email protected] it to have such healing properties that is was bottled and www.laznebechyne.cz shipped to Prague under the brand name Chabeso. Unlike most other medicinal drinks in the Czech Republic, this one Lázně Libverda was non-alcoholic and flavoured with fruit juice. 463 62 Hejnice Tel: +420 482 368 111 Fax: +420 482 368 110 Czech Spas [email protected] Anenské slatinné lázně www.lazne-libverda.cz Spa 165 Tourist info: www.laznelibverda.cz 507 81 Lázně Bělohrad Tel: +420 493 767 111 Lázně Malvazinky Praha Fax: +420 493 767 443 Praha 5, U Malvazinky 5 [email protected] Tel: +420 251 116 602 www.belohrad.cz [email protected] www.malvazinky.cz LS Royal Mariánské Lázně Lesní 345 Parkhotel Richmond 353 01 Mariánské Lázně Tel: + 420 354 625 446 Fax: + 420 354 622 346 K A R L O V Y V A R Y [email protected] www.royalmarienbad.cz Mariánské Lázně: www.marianskelazne.cz Teplice: www.teplice.cz Richmond Park Hotel Slovenská 3 360 01 Karlovy Vary Tel: +420 353 177 111 Fax: +420 353 222 169 [email protected] www.richmond.cz Tourist info: http: www.karlovyvary.cz

e Comprehensive Spa Treatment e Beauty Week e Antistress Programme e Golf Week e.t.c. e Festive lounge with a seating capacity of 200 seats e Lounges e Beauty parlour e Café with a summer terrace e Corrective dermatology e Swimming pool, sauna

Richmond, a.s., Slovenská 567/3, 360 01 Karlovy Vary, Czech Republic Tel.: +420 353 177 505, Fax: +420 353 222 169, [email protected] www.richmond.cz © Bobak Ha'Eri, wikipedia.org

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 Dear readers, Our future guests,

LET ME INTRODUCE you to a unique Water Park project: We have succeeded in building an incredible Water World Enjoy fun which will captivate both you and your children with its wide range of enchanting attractions. With water slides, water in the biggest Aquapark chutes, a wave pool, a Jacuzzi, a diving tube, saunas, massage parlours, a fi tness centre, and more, there really is something her in the Czech Republic e for everyone. You can have a good frolic in the Water World, try up to 11 treatments in the Sauna World, get pampered at the Spa or stretch your legs in the Fitness Centre. You will be amazed by the choice we off er. Aquapalace also houses shops and restaurants. We are confi dent that you will have a great time with us and that you´ll come back again and again. Aquapalace is an adventure for the entire family!

THE RESORT´S DIVERSE NEIGHBORHOOD off ers the perfect symbiosis of services and facilities available to our guests. Golf enthusiasts will surely appreciate the proximity of Golf Resort Konopiste. Průhonice´s castle and park is, on the other hand, an ideal place for those who prefer pleasant walks. Clients who prefer shopping to nature will appreciate the nearby shopping area Průhonice-Čestlice.

Whatever your needs, interests or ideas, you have found a place which is an ideal base for any of them. Indulge yourself in real luxury…

We are looking forward to seeing you! Pavel Sehnal SPG Financial Group CEO

www.aquapalace.cz

Aquapalace Praha, Pražská street 138, Commercial Zone Průhonice - Čestlice, D1 take Exit 6 Information: tel.: +420 271 104 111, email: [email protected]

inzerce_4.indd 3 25.5.2009 17:28:37 Rehabilitační Ústav Brandýs nad Orlicí

randýs nad Orlicí BRehabilitative Institute boasts a 110-year-old tradition of providing spa and rehabilitative cures. It’s located in a small town in the eastern part of the Czech Republic near the Orlické Mountains. Known all over the country; the Institute has 170 beds including some luxurious barrier free rooms. Currently, rehabilitation services are available for patients with organ diseases as well as back problems and neurological issues. An individual care plan is designed for each patient. The Rehabilitative Institute also offers reconditioning and relaxation stays. For more information, please visit our website.

Lázeňská 58 Brandýs nad Orlicí tel. 465 544 206-7 www.rehabilitacniustav.cz Carlsbadweek … … a week of travel fi lms and spa therapy

n just a month, Karlovy Vary will be Ihosting another festival. From 7 to 11 October the 4th annual Carlsbadweek will take place, sponsored by Minister for Regional Development, Ing. Rostislav Vondruška, including the oldest festival of tourism-themed fi lms, TOURFILM. nother part of Carlsbadweek is the Spa festival, where you will get Athe chance to familiarise yourself with the off ers of spa companies Th is year, the Czech Centre for Tourism – CzechTourism has prepared a during a presentation in the Varyáda shopping centre on 10 October 2009. number of things a little bit diff erently for you – the citizens of Karlovy Th e event is sure to attract many visitors because you can even win a stay Vary and surroundings. We have tried to get our activities to be closer to in a spa. All you need to do is fi ll in the draw ticket which you can fi nd in you – TOURFILM 2009 will take place for the most part in the Th ermal this edition of Radniční listy, drop it into the box in the Varyáda shopping Hotel and the talks with travellers and fi lms will be moved to the evening centre and wait to see if you’ve won when the winning tickets are drawn so that those who work can make them too, Competitions for amateur by the spa companies. cameramen have also been prepared in conjunction with Czech Television. Th e festival’s main star will be Ian Wright – one of the best television For gastronomy lovers, the grape harvesting festival at Loket castle on 10 – 11 presenters – travellers in the world, star of the British programme Globe October will include a gastronomy town with the specialities of our Bavarian trekker (originally the programme was named Lonely Planet). neighbours to complement the traditional grape harvesting festival.

Compete with us in TOURFILM, you can win valuable prizes. If you’re interested in cultural monuments and their fates, you will surely What do you have to do? be interested in the conference on the subject of ‘the importance of the • cut out the coupon which you can fi nd in this edition of Radniční listy cultural and natural heritage of spa towns in maintaining and providing • come on 8 October to the Day with Czech Television in the Th ermal Hotel the sustainable growth of balneotherapy and the tourist industry’. Th is will • watch the fi lms and accompanying programme bring advantage to spa towns aft er entry onto the • take part in the lot-drawing competition UNESCO World Heritage List. Th is conference will take place on 9 October in Karlovy Vary. You must register in advance for this conference – more What can you win? information available at www.kr-karlovarsky.cz.

Th e fi rst prize is 10 000 CZK in cash All further information can be found at the project Th e second prize is 5 000 CZK in cash website www.karlovarskytyden.cz, and if you don’t fi nd Th e third prize is publicity materials from ČCCR – Czech Tourism your question answered here, contact us by email at [email protected], or call 353 502 128. CZECH SPAS 53

CZECH SPA FESTIVAL in beer at Lašských on Štramberk Spas out East Square. Unfortunately, no sheep’s The beautiful vineyards of South Moravia can offer you more whey cure will be available as than one form of relaxation. Not to be left out of the spa craze, this procedure is being kept Lázně Hodonín was the first spa in the region. Water with a secret. Instead, there will be salt | KARLOVY VARY high iodine content is their trademark and the spa offers lots caves, beer soaks, massages and of cultural programming along with its therapies. tanning beds. Relaxation and a curative effect is guaranteed thanks to the mystical interior È In Moravia you can find Luhačovice. This small spa town where the procedures are done. The touch of castle walls, surrounded by forest, is one of the foremost balneology spas in underground passages and gorgeous views to the valley the Czech Republic. Individual treatments, plus relaxation stays below will seem like a small celebration to every visitor. Area of Hotel Thermal are a complement to the spa’s primary treatment of respiratory 9. 10. diseases. The spa is a beautiful combination of nature and Lázně Hodonín architecture; take your time here. While in Luhačovice, you won’t Měšťanská 140 OPEN AIR – BARS, STAGES, be at a loss for things to do in the area. The cities of Kroměříž 695 04 Hodonín and Zlín will provide lots of entertainment. Tel: +420 518 395 511 FIREWORKS… [email protected] Local cold springs will greet you in Jeseník, northern Moravia. www.laznehodonin.cz 10. 10. OC Varyáda (10 a.m. – 5 p.m.) In 1820, Vincent Priessnitz, the spa’s founder, set-up a program based on the effects of cold spring water. He Lázně Luhačovice combined water treatments with climate-therapy and diet. Lázeňské náměstí 436 PRESENTATIONS OF CZECH Respiratory and nervous system diseases are helped along 763 26 Luhačovice here and as you are so close to the Jeseníky Mountains, you’ll Tel: 577 682 111 SPAS FOR THE PUBLIC have lots of outdoor distractions in both summer and winter. Fax: 577 132 526 [email protected] t Price draw – win weekend spa stays www.lazneluhacovice.cz t Tasting of spa wafers and spa liqueurs Štramberk A spa in the picturesque Moravian town of Štramberk? It’s Priessnitzovy léčebné lázně FOR FREE surprising, even for those who already know about the town. But Priessnitzova 12/299 150 years ago, it was well-known. A magazine article from 1862 790 03 Jeseník 10. – 11. 10. Loket mentioned Štramberk’s spa and what the local’s called “kúpele” Tel: 584 491 111 as a “healthy milk spa with a special cure using sheep’s whey.” Fax: 584 411 412 Štramberk is going back to this tradition with the opening of [email protected] VINTAGE & GASTRONOMY CITY Relax Spa in Beskydy. Also opening is the opportunity to soak www.priessnitz.cz – LOKET t Including “GOURMET VILLAGE” – come to taste the specialities of our Bavarian Spa hotel VILA VALAŠKA in Luhačovice neighbours Individual approach and above standard services The cultural heritage Vila Valaška is a work of Dušan Jurkovič, a distinguished Slovak The Spa Festival focuses on promoting Czech Spa Destinations through word architect. The Villa was built in the folk-secession style in 1907 and belongs to the most signifi cant buildings in Luhačovice. In June 2009, this spa hotel Vila Valaška re-opened of mouth and press excursions followed by a workshop. Travel agencies and after a complete and intensive reconstruction. journalists from markets that are a major source of visitors and from markets with major potential as sources of visitors to Czech spa destinations are invited The Vila Valaška has 9 luxury suites, a restaurant and a wellness oasis. Villa off ers individual approach and above-standard services for the most demanding spa guests. Features of Jurkovič‘s architecture can be seen at each step. The modern white to Karlovy Vary every year. The participants from abroad have the opportunity to furniture contrasts beautifully with the bright blue windows or red walls.You will certainly relax and draw fresh energy in try out spa procedures while visiting, and they also are given a chance as part the intimate wellness centre. You can enjoy various baths, relaxation massages as well as exceptional light therapy or music of the workshop to become more familiar with the offers of companies from spa therapy. Nursing and medical staff are available in the neighbouring Vila Antoaneta, where an aqua relaxation centre with a whirlpool, sauna and steam bath is situated.In the restaurant, the chef will prepare your meal “Á la carte” or exactly according destinations in the Czech Republic, for which participation in this event is free to your taste. The off er includes a variety of diets and you have a possibility to consult the nutritional therapist. Floor service of charge thanks to support from the Czech Tourism Board – CzechTourism. will be provided by your request and in summer, you can enjoy your breakfast on the terrace.

This Villa belongs to the portfolio of ROYAL SPA - the private chain of spa and wellness hotels in the Czech Republic with more than 10 years of www.spalife.info tradition in this fi eld. At present they have 5 spa complexes and 1 wellness hotel in four major cities of the Czech Republic - Luhačovice, Mariánské Lazně, Velké Losiny and Ostrožská Nova Ves. The total capacity is now nearly 1,000 beds.

Tel. +420 577 659 111/107 www.royalspa.cz www.miramare-luhacovice.cz

prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 54 NIGHTLIFE

setting with cool tunes and Bond on TV. Salmon and club Bugsy’s E-2, Praha 1, Pařížská M sandwiches, caviar and chocolate fondue are on the small 10, Staroměstská, tel. 224 but inspired menu. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, 81 02 87, www.bugsysbar.cz. Sun 18:00 - 03:00. (105 - 295Kč). PA Bugsy’s has been around for a fair while now, but it has managed to Barock H-3, Praha 1, Pařížská 24, MStaroměstská, keep the ‘it’ that means it is a place to go if you wanted tel. (+420) 222 32 92 21. Not a rock bar at all. Swing everyone who has ‘it’ to think that you have ‘it’ too. A with the smart set in this flash and polished bar/restaurant trendy and hip crowd guaranteed then, as is a menu with huge windows and chandeliers - all the better to see featuring plenty of decent cocktails. QOpen 19:00 - PAE the beautiful models sipping and sashaying. The aprons will 02:00. come buzzing around you to offer expertly crafted drinks, succulent sushi, and a reassuringly expensive bill. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAU Prague's bar and club scene is as appropriately raucaus as its infamy suggests. Prices and clientele veer widely Blatouch E-2, Praha 1, Vězeňská 4, MNám. Repub- from the tourist-filled Old Town haunts to the sometimes liky, tel. (+420) 222 32 86 43. The soothing interior is slightly seedy neighbourhood bars. You will find that beer flanked by stunning old bookcases. Seems like a suitable is drunk morning, noon and night, and that Czech place to get quietly smashed on absinth whilst pretending are among the best and cheapest in the world. Brands to to be intellectual, or to have a cheap and healthy lunch-time look out for include Pilsner Urquell, Gambrinus, Staropra- . The best thing about this place is the diminutive, men and Budweiser (Budvar). The average wage for bar sheltered garden at the back, perfect for spring days. staff is 50Kč an hour, so please, after having your drinks QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 02:00, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, and your fun, show some appreciation with a decent tip. Sun 13:00 - 24:00. U

Blind Eye K-4, Praha 3, Vlkova 26, MJiřího z Poděbrad, Bars www.blindeye.cz. You can't keep a Blind Eye down… hav- Adagio K-5, Praha 2, Polská 7, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. ing been forced into speakeasy mode following a visit from (+420) 737 52 50 81. Three worlds in one for this sleek the cops, Blind Eye is back on legal street so doors and restaurant, café and bar in what was James Bond Café: in- windows will be open again to welcome the mixed crowd into ternational, sushi and, the back room has been transformed its cellar interior. Friendly folk on both sides of the bar keep into an Arab café with sheesha (200Kč) and backgammon. the vibe going late with help from well mixed drinks (try their The Europe and the New World wine list is well selected and signature McFly) and cool tunes. Video rental too. QOpen well presented by the friendly and efficient staff. Cocktails 19:00 - 04:00. 6E and Czech beer round out this worldly spot and DJs keep global citizens around. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - Blue Light Bar B-2, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MMalos- 24:00. PAK transká, tel. (+420) 224 93 22 49, www.bluelightbar. cz. This tiny bar is always busy, and even if you get a table, Aloha Wave Lounge E-1, Praha 1, Dušní 11, this doesn't mean you'll keep it to yourself. An older crowd MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 724 05 57 04, www. jostles, jokes and jives late into the night in this supposed alohapraha.cz. Wear a flower in your hair and head down- jazz club. It seldom has live music, but it does play chill tunes, stairs to Aloha's cocktail lounge, featuring a long bar, Pacific from Barry White to Prince to jazz standards. Strangely, this is cocktails at nice prices (try the Chi-Chi, with vodka, a beer drinking country after all, they only serve small beers and coconut), and a dance floor to hula to nightly R&B and and at 30Kč, they ain't cheap although well mixed cocktails rock music. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00, Mon, Sat, Sun 18:00 - provide a smooth alternative. It's a cool hot spot with very 02:00. PAE interesting interior design. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00.

Back Doors Praha 5, Na Bělidle 30/310, MAnděl, tel. Bombay Cocktail Bar E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 13, (+420) 257 31 58 24, www.backdoors.cz. This space MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 721 882 557, www.rasoi. is part restaurant, part bar and part club in the cellar of an cz. One of the city's best late night hot spots, Bombay seldom old Smíchov house. Massive wooden furniture and forged disappoints with a wide range of cocktails, DJs who actually iron work complement the brick walls and parquet floor of its play what the crowd wants to hear and a diverse clientele historical setting. Good for their lunch specials and fabulous in the right frame of mind to have fun. Enough said. QOpen for the night time change to music bar with high quality audio 12:00 - 04:00. PAB system, where you can hear various styles of music from famous Czech DJs. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, Casa Havana H-5, Praha 1, Opatovická 28, MNárodní Sat 18:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 23:00. AE třída, tel. (+420) 602 32 10 07, www.casahavana.cz. Cool and stylish, this classic Cuban bar is sure to become a Bambus F-2, Praha 1, Benediktská 12, MNám. Re- classic Prague hangout. Dark wood, low lights, smooth Cuban publiky, tel. (+420) 224 82 81 10. Finding a seat in this tunes…oh and nearly 100 different kind of rum; a cocktail warm and bustling, bamboo-laden bar can be a demanding list the length of an island plus tasting menus for a variety of task but a fine array of cocktails and Pilsner Urquell on tap spirits. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAEBW will help you to relax afterwards. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. A Chapeau Rouge F-3, Praha 1, Jakubská 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 63 28, www.chapeau- Bar and Books F-2, Praha 1, Týnská 19, MNám. Re- rouge.cz. A local legend. This large, dark red bar continues publiky, tel. (+420) 224 80 82 50, www.barandbooks. to be the place to head for to indulge a multitude of vices. A net. Deep red walls and ceilings, soft leather benches, dark deeper and darker cellar room kicks in later in the evening as wood finishing, books filling one complete wall and impec- a DJ and dance venue, thus giving dedicated nocturnalists cable service typify Bar & Books. Cocktails (140Kč) vie with another central venue to frequent. Early on it provides a quiet an astounding array of whiskey, wine and cigars in this classy alternative for a bit of chilling. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00. AE

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com 56 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 57

Cloud 9 J2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1, MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 224 84 29 99, [email protected], www.cloud9.cz. Nine Casinos floors up, Prague's first sky bar offers stunning views, a cool www.inyourpocket.com interior, smooth sounds and amazing cocktails. A master There are lots of places in which you can lose your bartender mixes up old favorites plus a line of signature Cloud shirt - just make sure it’s a smart shirt or you won’t 9-only concoctions. A small grazing menu offers an eclectic Hapu Praha 3, Orlická 8, MFlóra, tel. (+420) 222 72 even get in in the first place! All of these places will line-up of tastes and weekend DJ's keep the vibe going. Atop 01 58. The owner/barman creates magnificent drinks gladly receive your cash in Czech crowns or US dollars member of Casinos Austria International the Hilton Hotel. Highly recommended. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. with studious care, there's no tossing of shakers here, and give you free booze with which to drown your Closed Sun. JAE just mountains of fresh fruit and shots that would floor an sorrows. You’ll need to be over 18, well-dressed and in elephant. Get here early if you want a seat or stand until possession of ID to play. Coyotes E-3, Praha 1, Malé nám. 2, MStaroměstská, you hit the deck because this place is tiny, has sounds tel. (+420) 224 21 60 00, www.coyotes.cz. Lots of Qthe chilly end of cool and is therefore constantly packed. Ambassador Casino E-4, Václavské nám. 5, Grandhotel Pupp, Karlovy Vary beauties floating around here; both behind and in front Open 18:00 - 02:00. MMůstek, tel. +420 724 747 401, www.vipclub. of the bar. Nightly DJ's spin the best from the 70's, 80's cz. Poker, roulette, blackjack, pontoon and slots at- & 90's. Cocktails and food complete the night. QOpen Harlequin J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 25, MMuzeum, PA tract a sophisticated crowd with the casino’s excellent, 11:00 - 03:00. tel. (+420) 224 21 72 40, www.harlequin.zde.cz. This knowledgeable staff, and appropriate atmosphere. Q combo would probably never happen anywhere else, but when Open 24hrs. AK DC1 I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 1, MMůstek, tel. you feel like having a few beers then shoot some arrows, we (+420) 224 24 75 15, [email protected], www.dc1.cz. Image have found the place for you. With pool hall and new roulette Casino Panorama Praha 4, Milevská 7, MPankrác, is important, based on the hip crowd you see lounging at DC1. wheel upstairs and laser golf, laser karaoke and archery tel. +420 724 747 403, www.vipclub.cz. The Corin- The interior is designed to match their carefully maintained down in the black walled cellar, Harlequin will keep the most thia Panorama Hotel hosts another winning casino from looks. DJ's and dancing are the norm here; plus good-looking dysfunctional group happy. Archery tuition on various bows the VIP group. The usual games and slotQ machines are people. TheQ restaurant is basic; pastas, meat dishes and for a lot of fun from 19:00 - 24:00 is 200Kč per bow per hour. on offer, with drinks and refreshments. Open 20:00 - cocktails. Open 09:00 - 03:00. Restaurant: 09:00-24:00. Golf 400Kč. Well priced but bottled only beer downstairs, 04:00. AL Grand Hotel, Benešova 18-20, Brno Club: 21:00-03:00. (150 - 380Kč). PB Krušovice upstairs for 24Kč. An intriguing gem of a place. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00. K See advertisement on p. 56. Gecko H-5, Praha 1, Mikulandská 2, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 776 11 72 93. Gecko could be mistaken for a Harley's E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 18, tel. (+420) 227 19 51 M chameleon as it appears to be a fine place for a quiet drink 95, www.harleys.cz. Interesting mix of bikers, locals and Banco Casino F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 27, Nám. then suddenly you're having a crazy time in what was the tourists, this long, long bar has emerged on the scene not Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 96 73 80, www.banco- smallest bar in Prague. A kitchen (good, cheap eats) and just because of their large US style food, well mixed drinks or casino.cz. One of Prague’s favourite casinos, set in a small music club downstairs plus more tables have almost Wild Cats (shot shifting girls) but due to the presence of two central location difficult to beat. All your favourite games quadrupled the bar space. The fun factor has not been diluted. of Dusk till Dawn's barmen. Check it out. Shots around 60Kč are available, there are state of the art slot machines, QOpen 11:00 - 03:00. and Jack 80Kč. QOpen 18:00 - 03:00. (120 - 350Kč). A a private salon and a general atmosphere of unadulter- ated luxury that entices even James Bond: it was used in Casino Royale... Q Open 24 hours. A Náměstí Svobody 5, Brno Casino de Prague Le Hilton J-2, Praha 8, Pobřežní 1 (Hotel Hilton), MFlorenc, tel. (+420) 224 81 09 88. One of the favoured casinos for Prague expats, the Hilton provides roulette, poker, blackjack, pontoon, Punto ASINO MBASSADOR Banco, and slots with the worldwide standards of the C A Hilton chain. QOpen 14:00 - 06:00. A HOTEL AMBASSADOR, VÁCLAVSKÉ NÁM. 5, PRAHA 1, OPEN NONSTOP Casino President E-1, Praha 1, Nám. Curieových 100 (President Hotel), MStaromětská, tel. (+420) 234 61 41 13, www.casinopresident.cz. Roulette, black jack, poker, pontoon and slots available at this luxurious new casino. Minimum bets are 100Kč for B. Smetany 1, Plzeň blackjack, et al. and 25Kč on roulette. Free soft drinks while you gamble. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A

Century Casino Millennium I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 10, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 03 34 01, www.cnty.com. Catering to the likes of the Marriott Hotel, the Century Casino in the Millennium Plaza boasts excellent croupiers who will help out beginners and take anyone’s money. The usual roulette, poker and blackjack are available. QOpen 15:00 - 04:00. AL

Spearmint Casino D-1, Praha 1, U Plovárny 8, Dolní Folmava 9 – Furth im Wald CASINO PANORAMA tel. (+420) 257 535 755, www.spearmintcasino. cz. Come to the only English-style casino in Prague. PANORAMA HOTEL PRAGUE, MILEVSKÁ 7, PRAHA 4, OPEN 20:00 - 04:00 Spearmint has the highest limits available in the city. Try your luck at roulette, pontoon, blackjack and poker or www.vipclub.cz play in the private gaming room. If mechanics are more your thing, head for the new slot machines upstairs. Free transport to the casino is also available. Admission is free. www.czechcasinos.cz QOpen 19:00 - 04:00. A

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 58 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 59

Hospoda Lucerna I-4, Praha 1, Vodíčkova 39, tel. (+420) Mad Bar Plaská 5, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 775 during the cooler months, and despite the listed closing time, Újezd A-4, Praha 1, Újezd 18, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 221 14 63 37, www.hospodalucerna.cz. A long, loud bar 12 22 56/(+420) 257 21 98 55, [email protected], Sudička keeps the mellow vibe well into the night. Czech bar 257 31 65 37, www.klubujezd.cz. Yes, the ambience is with the rock feel of the music hall opposite and serves up www.madbar.cz. Fun, clean joint that doesn't really life up snacks, magazines and no music typify the place, while the young, shabby and hedonistic, but Újezd's three floors and decent and cheap meals in the belly of the city. A 30 person to its “mad” moniker. All the more reason to go - they have 0.4L beers ensure it isn't a haven for drunks. QOpen 10:33 especially the bizarre wrought iron sculptures are a tonic to eyes private dining room is available or join the throng in the carved a small, but varied menu and the prices are reasonable for - 23:00, Sat, Sun 12:33 - 23:00. I and ears. Friendly staff and hot (most of them smoking) people totem pole littered room with alcove tables and various people the area. Plus a happy hour from 16:00-19:00 means 25% throng here any night for live music and/or DJs. The cellar is eating, drinking and being merry. This hospoda often hosts of food and drink. Go mad. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun Swank E-3, Praha 1, Havelská 499/27, MMůstek, punk, and upstairs is a more eclectic chill zone. Don't bring your bands' post-gig nights. During the day, enjoy the atmosphere 15:00 - 21:00. tel. (+420) 777 32 99 17, www.swankbar.cz. Cool and posh frock, do bring some energy. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. E - it's been here since 1908. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. KW minimalist or plastic and pretentious, Swank can be both, Molotow Cocktail Bar H-5, Praha 2, Karlovo nám. but there's no denying they serve a good cocktail. Tucked Be kara OK! I-5, Praha 2, Legerova 78, MMuzeum. Irish Club Prague H-1, Praha 7, Keramická 4, tel. 31, MKarlovo nám., tel. (+420) 222 23 33 34, www. away from the madding crowd, Swank offers a no smoking One of Prague's busiest roads leads to the city's first truly (+420) 233 37 11 28, www.irishclubprague.com. An Irish molotow.cz. Requisite black marble, zoot suit silver trap- area, happy hour (50% from 15:00) and events and parties Japanese karaoke experience. Forget embarrassing yourself bar in the heart of Letná rather than Old Town allows for friend- pings in the bathroom and pretty folk on mobiles sipping in addition drawing a thirsty bunch of drinkers most nights. in front of a bar full of people, this place sports five rooms for lier prices and local attendance. Live (Irish & Czech country, at the bar. However, Molotow transcends the cliché and QOpen 14:00 - 24:00. AG 6 to 15 exhibitionists to wield the microphone in private, hi-tec blues and more) music (there is also a piano for punters), quiz provides a wicked although somewhat expensive night glory. Full bar, sushi bistro and full complement of Japanese nights, foosball and warm wooden interior. Gambrinus 20Kč. out. Mojitos et al. are 125Kč, but, as ever, sit at the bar, Tretters E-2, Praha 1, V Kolkovně 3, delicacies invite a Lost in Translation experience. Q Open Accommodation available upstairs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. make friends with the talented staff and see if they'll give MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 81 11 65, www. 18:00 - 02:00; Fri & Sat 18:00 - 05:00. Closed Sun. Prices you a Dragon's Breath, which even if you pay for it, is worth tretters.cz. The bar certainly seems sure of its leading begin at about 100Kč pp/hr. PAGK Jet Set Praha 5, Radlická 1c, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 the spectacle. And the hangover… QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. role here, swallowing up so much of the space that it 32 72 51. The central square bar is low enough for all drinkers Closed Sun. PA leaves little room for customers. And rightly so. Com- Celnice I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, MNám. Republiky, tel. to scan the crowd and check out who's who this evening, the mitted barmen can rattle up some seriously decent (+420) 224 21 22 40, www.celnice.com. Young Czech la- split levels ensure dancers with confidence will be centre stage, Papas D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské nám. 8, MNárodní cocktails and they serve the best Bloody Marys in dies dressed in the day's fashions, usually nearly see-through and the DJs make sure everyone has to get close together třída, tel. (+420) 222 22 22 29, www.papasbar.cz. town. Wear a suit or the staff will probably sneer at you. knee-length white pants and heels, ponder the differences for any conversation. It's sleek, chic and designed to empty It's all louche and lazy at Papas. Red walls, yellow leather QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. PA between expats in plaid shirts and tattooed bartenders who NYC wannabes' pockets with style. The great menu has a banquettes and smoky glass give an upmarket feel. The look like they just stepped out of a fashion magazine. Dance Mediterranean influence. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. PAGB Mediterranean menu is the usual, yet tasty, mix of salads, Ultramarin H-4, Praha 1, Ostrovní 32, MNárodní třída, chart toppers get a lot of airplay here. QOpen 11:00 - 04:00, pasta and fish. Why does everyone insist on scrawling tel. (+420) 224 93 22 49, www.ultramarin.cz. Deep in Mon, Tue, Sun 11:00 - 02:00. PAGB Kozi čka E-2, Praha 1, Kozí 1, MStaroměstská, tel. cocktail specials in neon pen across perfect people-watching an old cellar, Ultramarin has pricey but decently made drinks (+420) 224 81 83 08, www.kozicka.cz. Tagged out front windows? QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. A and a few bugs to iron out service-wise. They've browsed Cross Club Praha 7, Plynární 23, tel. (+420) 736 53 by the sculpture of an iron , Kozička is entered via heavy through the chic end of the renovation brochure producing a 50 53, www.crossclub.cz. One of Prague's underground red curtains, down the stairs and into the labyrinthine set of Pekelnej Bar Praha 5, Na Bělidle 38, MAnděl, tel. feel that is definitely style over substance. QOpen 11:00 - legends has emerged into legal luminescence as the cool kid rooms. Good food adds to the late night party vibe and this (+420) 257 32 24 10, www.pekelnejbar.cz. Anděl might 04:00. PAE on the block. The labyrinthine den has, despite its slightly out is one of the kitchens that'll feed us late into the Prague night mean angel in Czech, but this part of town is acquiring a devil- of the way location, become a firm favourite. Jungle, drum - till 01:45 in fact. QOpen 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 18:00 - 04:00, ish reputation. Pekelnej, meaning Hellish, is heavy on chains, Wakata I-1, Praha 7, Malířská 14, MVltavská, tel. ‘n base, house and chill out have their own rooms and the Sun 18:00 - 03:00. PAI red drapery and attitude. DJs spin nightly although the lack (+420) 233 37 05 18, www.wakata.cz. You'll have plenty music, whether DJ or live, has to compete with some of the of dance floor means you have to jostle with one another. of time to admire the owner's welding work, in the form of funkiest, most inventive and ever-changing décor around. La Belle Epoque D-3, Praha 1, Křižovnická 8, Excellent Bloody Mary for just 80Kč and Czech wine from outlandish bar stools, whilst waiting for staff to relocate your QOpen 14:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 05:00. 6EBK MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 32 19 26. The place 160Kč a bottle. QOpen 17:00 - 03:00. order in the scrambled minds which they nonchalantly nod to a is decked out with aesthetic treasures such as American great soundtrack of hip-hop and other assortments. QOpen Duplex I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, MMůstek, highway signs, Japanese car dealership merchandising and, Repete F-2, Praha 1, Rybná 17, MNám. Republiky, tel. 17:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. E tel. (+420) 732 22 11 11, [email protected], www.duplex. ever since some minor film star went there once, an attitude (+420) 224 81 40 62. A long, many-roomed bar tucked cz. A massive designer space fed by a couple of lifts from to make Joan Collins seem down-to-earth. QOpen 12:00 - behind Kotva and appealing to the Old Town crowd looking Zapa Bar Dušní 6, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 street level, this is where Mick Jagger decided to spend his 02:00. PAI for a cheaper, calmer place to sup some drinks. Friendly staff 58 99, www.zapabar.cz. If you're looking for a quiet place to birthday, which has probably made the place even more full and happy drinkers provide a decadent atmosphere later, chat and have a cocktail, Zapa is for you. Prices are decent for of itself. Theme nights range from Dirty Dancing parties on La Casa Blů E-1, Praha 1, Kozí 15, MStaroměstská, tel. while wine-sipping shoppers fill the tables during the day. the centre of town, the staff is pleasant and you can usually Fridays to local and international DJ's on Saturdays. QOpen, (+420) 224 81 82 70, www.lacasablu.cz. A package deal Pilsner 35Kč. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Fri 15:00 - 02:00, Sat get a seat and relax. QOpen 18:00 - 2:00. Wed, Thu, Fri 22:00 - 05:00, Sat 23:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, of generic South Americana sold as the real deal. A pleasing 17:00 - 02:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:30. Tue, Sun. ABK and soothing spirit pervades the darkened corners, which are perfect, when a little recuperation is needed, for sprawling in Ridgeback H-5, Praha 1, Karlovo nám. 288/17, MKar- Clubs but at the same time you can perch at the bar and find yourself lovo nám., tel. (+420) 721 44 88 76. Religious iconography Abaton Praha 8, Na Košince 8 / Povltavská 2175, in the midst of a mini Mardi Gras. Ay caramba the food is great abounds with hand painted murals in this world and rhythm MPalmovka, tel. (+420) 602 32 44 34, www.prostora- too. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. 6EKW live and DJ music venue and bar. Confusing for those who baton.cz. Very cool club a tad out of town but with one of know the (Žitná) Ridgeback of late, this is actaully a completely the best programs in the city, be it drum n bass DJs or live Le Tram H-1, Praha 7, Šmeralova 12, tel. (+420) 233 new venue, although some similar faces make appearances music to the tune of Chumbawamba, Natacha Atlas, The 370 359. The French owner of this red-lit funky bar has bits in this two-room spot, and the vibe is dictated by the music Dresden Dolls or Free Monday local heroes such as Dirty of trams all over the place - from the plastic chairs to the hand and the crowd it attracts. Q Open 14:00 - 02:00. Fri & Sat Airlines. Beer hall downstairs with video feed from the stage railings. Better yet are the cheap beers and cocktails that 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. E upstairs. Open for gigs only and closing time depends on the the wizards behind the bar conjure up, and the great French band/after party. Tram 10, 24, 25 to stanice Stejskalova multi-culti music which is DJed or played live in the rear corner. St. Nicholas Café A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 10, MMalos- QOpen 19:00 - 03:00. E QOpen 20:00 - 06:00. transká. Purportedly a wine bar, St. Nick's has been attract- ing drinkers of all vogues for years and his allure hasn't waned. Akropolis K-4, Praha 3, Kubelíkova 27, MJiřího z Lokalblok Praha 5, nám. 14. října 10, MAnděl, tel. Dedicated drinkers keep the vibe going late and jazzy live Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 296 33 09 11, www.palacak- (+420) 777 24 24 76, www.lokalblok.cz. A climbing bar music adds to the cellar ambience. Snacks available. QOpen ropolis.cz. Akropolis goes a long way to saving the world in Anděl, with air conditioned walls, claiming to be the third 12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 01:00. on those humdrum nights in the winter. A sprawling den of largest in Europe. With good overhangs and some tough scruffy delights with great and often unusual live music and lines, the wall will create a thirst that is easily and cheaply Sudička K-6, Praha 3, Nitranská 7, MJiřího z Poděbrad, DJs. There are two bars, an adjoining café, plus the excel- quenched in the popular bar upstairs, where the prime sport is tel. (+420) 222 52 06 72, www.sudicka.cz. The muted lent gig space offering some of the most intriguing music in vertical flirting. A weird foosball table downstairs too. QOpen wooden floors and furniture in this cellar space provide a Prague on offer. Gigs have to finish at 22:00 so start times 11:00 - 24:00. Climbing wall open 09:00 - 22:00; Sat & Sun perfect venue for low down, chill out conversation to the here are punctual. QOpen 16:00 - 04:00. Admission 30 - 12:00 - 22:00. 60Kč per day. PB accompaniment of a few drinks. The fireplace entices all 400Kč. EKW

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 60 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 61

Futurum G-6, Praha 5, Zborovská 7, MAnděl, tel. the huge white sofas. The DJ's they showcase are some of U Buldoka Praha 5, Preslova 1, MAnděl, tel. (+420) (+420) 257 32 85 71, www.musicbar.cz. Smíchov is on its the best town. QOpen, Wed, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Closed 257 32 91 54, www.ubuldoka.cz. Straddling the fence Gay Prague PAUE way to glory, and the way is paved by Futurum's, er, futuristic Mon, Tue, Thu, Sun. Admission 150 - 200Kč. between a munched out smokey dive of a bar and a club M rooms. Its ultra modern conversions with eccentric lighting because it's open late and has DJs, The Bulldog, in the Drake’s G-6, Praha 5, Zborovská 50, Anděl, tel. and exposed metal and brick is inventive. The place hosts Nebe H-5, Praha 1, Křemencova 10, MNárodní třída, same vein that it was started in a few years ago, is the (+420) 257 32 68 28, www.drakes.cz. THE place for launch parties for Czech bands, the odd cultural festival and tel. (+420) 777 80 04 11. This slice of heaven produces receptacle for the flotsam and jetsam from Chateau across tourists to discover Prague’s gay scene. Non Qstop fun half-decent DJs. Fridays host their popular 80s & 90s night. what its punters want every night and hence conjures up a the river. QOpen 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. Admission and games in the dark rooms, bar or dungeon. Open QOpen 20:00 - 03:00. Admission 100Kč. E good vibe, happy drinkers and DJs who do have a clue about 50 - 100Kč. 24hrs. Admission 500Kč. creating and keeping the atmosphere. Bar keeps add to M Karlovy Lázně C-3, Praha 1, Smetanovo nábreží 198, the atmosphere which goes on late. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00. Vagon D-4, Praha 1, Národní 25, MNárodní třída, tel. Escape I-5, Praha 1, V jámě 8, Můstek, tel. MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 22 05 02, www. (+420) 221 08 55 99, www.vagon.cz. Vagon was a danc- (+420) 606 11 11 77, [email protected], www. karlovylazne.cz. Set up as Prague's superclub, this place Popocafepetl Music Club Praha 1, Újezd 19, www. ing hall during communist times so if your parents are too old escapeprague.cz. Escape has now provided six years has been rebuilt with panache, e.g. the transparent floor thus popocafepetl.cz. The space is small but well utilised and to boogie here come yourself and check out the dedication to of pleasure to its customers. Every day sees solo strip enabling you to comfortably look up girls' skirts. Live bands, already drawing the crowds. Located by trendy Downtown the artwork, if not exactly the spirit, of the decadent 1960s. and oil shows followed by the megastrip featuring 12-16 chillout rooms and free internet access in the basement, Café, this block is a new hotspot. Their bookings are an in- An excellent live venue renowned for quality cover bands, lads. Fri & Sat has extra body painting and live shows. standard tunes one floor up, eclectica up one again, and ternational bunch from homegrown talent to bands/members local and international acts plus an open mic night on select You aren’t going toQ want to escape but if you do, ask for more hard core dance tracks in the loft. Q MCM Internet from SCO/FRA/SK/HU. Sundays have proved a good night Mondays. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. E their taxi service. Open 21:00 - 04:00. Café open 10:00 - 05:00. Club open 21:00 - 05:00. Admission for Gitans (CZ) and their gypsy nights. Gigs begin at 20.30. M 21:00-22:00 50Kč, after 22:00 120Kč. Admission up to 150Kč. QOpen 16.00 - 02.00. E Vertigo E-4, Praha 1, Havelská 4, MMůstek, tel. (+420) Termix K-5, Praha 2, Třebízského 4a, Jiřího z 774 74 42 56, www.vertigo-club.cz. Whether by design Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 222 71 04 62, www.club- Klub 007 Strahov Praha 6, Vaníčkova 7, Koleje ČVUT Retro Music Hall J-6, Praha 2, Franzouzská 4, MNám. or by accident, this club does indeed spin the mind… split termix.cz. The newest club on the gay scene here and blok 7, tel. (+420) 257 21 14 39, www.klub007strahov. Míru, tel. (+420) 603 47 67 47, www.retropraha.cz. A levels and balconies loiter under low ceilings while some of perhaps the way of things to come as it’s for gays and cz. Skulking in the basement of a block of student accommo- new and rising star of a club of the same name as the adjacent the weirdest video footage ever accompanies the tracks to lesbians. Shiny glass bar, cushy sofas and dark rooms. QOpen 20:00 - 05:00. dation near Stadion Strahov, this hardcore/punk andQ hip-hop restaurant and music bar. The club has a good and varied roster create a space that lures your mind and your feet. Excellent club has been keeping study results bad for years. Open of local and international bands and DJs rocking the decent DJs and unusual theme nights attract a disparate group of M 19:30 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 19:30 - 02:00. E floor, balcony and stage space. Open for gigs only and closing folk. Q Club: Thu - Sat 21:00 - 04:00; café: 08:00 - 21:00 The Saints K-5, Praha 2, Polská 32, Jiřího z time depends on the band/after party. Admission 30 - 500Kč except club nights open to 04:00. Admission free. P Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 222 25 03 26, www.saintsbar. Klub Lávka C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka 1, depending on the band. Q Open Thu - Sat 17:00 - 05:00. PE cz. Young and good looking, like their bar staff, the Saints MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 22 21 56, www.lavka. XT3 Praha 3, Rokycanova 29, MFlóra, tel. (+420) 222 bar adds a sinful option to Prague’s gay scene. Small but cz. Lávka occupies a beautiful corner right next to Charles Bridge, Rock Café D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní třída, 78 34 63, www.xt3.cz. A short walk from Flóra or JzP, this perfectly formed, Saints has adopted the early evening with terraces looking across the water to the castle. This is about tel. (+420) 224 93 39 47, www.rockcafe.cz. Three bars fabulous cavern space of a club in Žižkov has become the new and late night position on the gay day, as it were. To spice as apt and tasteful as say... putting Elton John in charge of your and a funky, boxy lounge with cool mural graffiti and screen home of XT3 (it was, and will always be to many, Guru). Come up life for everyone, these wicked people have introduced funeral arrangements and expecting an occassion of grace and makes Rock Café continously one of the most suave places early or be lucky, but get one of the balcony booths. Live music Thursday lesbian nights to their weekly line-up. Excellent dignity. QOpen 21:30 - 05:00. PAUEK in town. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00, Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun and/or DJs plus foosball, flippery (pinball),and a café upstairs chill out bar. Walkers Crisps and Smirnoff Ice have coaxed EW 17:00 - 01:00. Admission 50 - 100Kč. with cool sofas. The eclectic crowd accompanies the talent. the BritsQ in. Gambrinus 35Kč. Four apartments available La Fabrique E-4, Praha 1, Uhelný trh 2, MMůstek, tel. QOpen 11:00 - 03:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 03:00. Admission too. Open 19:00 - 04:00. M E (+420) 224 23 31 37, www.lafabrique.cz. A swish com- Roxy E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá 33, Nám. Republiky, tel. from 30Kč for live acts. M plex of large underground rooms sets the scene for the La (+420) 224 82 62 96, www.roxy.cz. Probably the best U Rudolfa I-5, Praha 1, Mezibrannská 3, Muzeum, Fabrique's definition of a music club. The hordes of uniformed club in Prague, years of kudos keep the place hopping de- Zlaté časy H-5, Praha 1, Vladislavova 1, MNárodní tel. (+420) 605 87 24 92. Highly recommended as the employees are friendly and efficient. Downstairs, the dance spite some sound issues. Live acts and DJs plus the divinely třída, tel. (+420) 224 94 81 70, www.zlatecasy.cz. A only gay beer hall in Prague. It is loud, smoky, full of regu- floor is packed with a mixture of expats and Czechs doing eclectic Free Mondays. Q Box office open 16:00. Club open perfectly situated music club just off Lazarská, Zlaté časy is an lars and the only music seems to be decades-old Czech PE the meat-market disco stomp to whatever weird mixture the for concerts 19:00, for club nights 22:00. excellent destination as well as a place to while away the time Qand Slovak hits. English is not the common language here. DJ (who couldn't gauge the atmosphere of a morgue) serves till your tram home. Steep stairs lead into the single roomed, Open 16:00 - 02:00. Q PA NEW up to them. Open 11:00 - 04:00. high-ceiled club, perfect for scoping out the talent at the bar M SaSaZu K-1, Praha 7, Bubenské nábřeží 306, MVltavská, or on the dance floor. Music varies, but later, everyone bops Valentino J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská 40, Nám. Lucerna Music Bar I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 36, tel. 284 09 74 44, [email protected], www.sasazu.com. to Czech pop. Not bad prices either, 40Kč for a Pilsner Urquell. Míru, tel. (+420) 222 51 34 91, www.club-valentino. MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 21 71 08, www.musicbar.cz. Pretty cool spot, and definitely the best thing to open here in Q Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu 11:00 - 24:00, Fri 11:00 - 04:00, cz. A new star on the Prague gay scene, Valentino has The more popular local bands and the smaller international recent memory. SaSaZu sports a split-level dance floor with Sat 16:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. linked its street level bar, cafe and cellar dance floor via groups ply their trade here fairly regularly. Every Saturday you enough space for up to 2,000 of your nearest and dearest. a tunnel of love to the dance floor and dark room of old can find an un-hip, unpretentious crowd cavorting at their Styling décor; flashing lights and lots of events make this a good Gej...zeer to provide three floors of good atmosphere, disarmingly popular 1980s night, which has led to the doors spot to know and go. Mix of DJs and live acts. Other part of the Jazz lovely staff and kicking nights, with weekends attracting Q Q a huge, pumping crowd. QOpen 14:00 - 05:00. Admis- being closed because of sheer numbers. Open 19:00 - former warehouse is a Thai restaurant. Open 20:00 - 03:00. AghaRTA Jazz Centrum E-3, Praha 1, Železná 16, BEKP 06:00. Admission 50 - 150Kč. PE MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 21 12 75, [email protected], sion free. Top Secret Club E-2, Praha 1, Masná 9, MStaroměstská, www.agharta.cz. This beautiful arched medieval cellar is the M1 E-2, Praha 1, Masná 1, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) tel. (+420) 222 31 69 03, [email protected], perfect place to appreciate some of the very fine bands on 221 87 42 56. Grey and industrial looking, this railroad www.topsecretclub.cz. The secret's out - Top Secret is one the Prague jazz circuit, cut with the odd night of heavy blues. Jazz Boat D-1, Praha 1, Čechův most, Kotva boat, car of a bar is an ideal place to lounge around. Swamped cool joint. The club is happening; and the cafe is open long hours. Arrive early to claim a seat at a table. There's a jazz shop, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 731 18 31 80, www. barmen deftly pour drinks in front of the glow of illuminated Brunch is offered on the weekends. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Tue, where they sell CDs including their own compilations of visiting jazzboat.cz. Take a musical journey on the low seas of the spirits on the wall. New owners have shifted the scene some Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. Cafe is open everyday (8:00- talent. QOpen 18:00 - 00:30. Concerts daily at 21:00. Admis- Vltava. The Jazz Boat sets sail each evening from Čechův at Prague's M1, with nightly themes from the increasingly 22:00); club only Tuesdays-Saturdays (22:00-5:00.) sion 200Kč. Reservations via email only before 15:00. E most and for only 590Kč you're afforded a two and a half hour popular Sunday chill out sessions to ladies' night and DJ Big cruise around Prague to the accompaniment of excellent jazz J's Smokin' Fridays. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A U Bukanýra F-1, Praha 1, Nábřeží L. Svobody, MNám. Blues Sklep D-3, Praha 1, Lilliová 10, MNárodní třída, performed by some of the city's finest musicians. A bar and Republiky, tel. (+420) 608 97 35 82, www.bukanyr.cz. tel. (+420) 774 27 70 60, www.bluessklep.cz. Sklep restaurant are also at your disposal, but their services are Mecca Praha 7, U Průhonu 3, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. Find Bukanýra, a houseboat-looking floating bar and club at means cellar in Czech, and this is a true hewn-from-rock not included in the bill. It's best to arrive early to get good (+420) 602 71 12 25, [email protected], www.mecca. another new address under Štefánikova most. It's small but underground experience - although it does have that ‘new' seats. QOpen 20:30 - 23:00. AEGBK cz. Mecca has taken the proceeds from its status as the friendly and always busy with chilled groups lounging in the edge to it following complete reconstruction after the floods. recent clubbing star of Prague and done something very odd. comfortable seating. Various DJs spin discs while boozers A varied roster of blues, jazz plus some deep funk stalwarts It has spent it on making the club even better. Now one can smooze and movers groove. QOpen, Thu 19:00 - 03:00, Fri, of and newcomers to the scene play nightly. Ferdinand waters hardly shuffle from one foot to other without falling into the Sat 21:00 - 06:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. The summer the thirsty crowd for 25Kč. Admission 100Kč. Concerts begin www.inyourpocket.com lap of some super-model clubbing lass lying back on one of terrace bar is open 16:00 - 24:00, closed Sun & Mon. B at 21:00. QOpen 19:00 - 02:30.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 62 NIGHTLIFE NIGHTLIFE 63

NEW frequent this bar for its burgers, BLTs and Tex-Mex as well as Sherlock's Pub D-4, Praha 1, Bartolomějská 11, Jazz Dock Praha 5, Janáčkovo nábřeží 2, tel. 774 05 88 the cheap local specials and beer. Bring your laptop for free MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 226 21 19 39, www.sher- 38, [email protected], www.jazzdock.cz. Soul, funk, blues… wi-fi. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. TAGBKW lockspub.cz. This split level pub with somewhat authentic if it jams it's at Jazz Dock. This newly opened riverside club feel, paintings all over the walls and small courtyard is the offers a diverse selection of blues & jazz genres, with a variety J.J.Murphy's A-2, Praha 1, Tržiště 4, MMalostranská, Prague location for the Ostrava original. Part sport bar, part of bands taking the stage every night. Open till the wee hours, tel. (+420) 257 53 55 75, www.jjmurphys.cz. Don't worry, cocktail bar and part pub, Sherlock's has many stairs, plays but stop by during the day for a light snack at their rooftop café. they also have Guinness. If you pine for the days when you some terrible tunes but has a good kitchen which is open till QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. 150 Kč standard admission. could enjoy a pint, a good meal and your favourite sporting 03:00. Staropramen costs, strangely, more that Stella and event without screaming Englishmen in dresses working on drink specials at weekends will make those stairs more dif- Reduta D-4, Praha 1, Národní 20, MNárodní třída, tel. their 20th beer, then belly up to this Irish bar. Watch live sport ficult… QOpen 17:00 - 04:00. BK (+420) 224 93 34 87, www.redutajazzclub.cz. Founded from one of the sofas in the attic lounge or have a proper in 1958, Reduta was the first real venue for Czech rock and breakfast with pudding or a real American burger on the Tlustá koala F-3, Praha 1, Senovážná 1394/8, MNám. roll, playing smuggled Elvis records. Reduta has not changed ground floor. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. AK Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 24 54 01. The Fat Koala boasts much since then; don't come for the brown 1980s interior or (if that's the word) Foster's lager, but everything else is more the uncomfortable bench seating; Reduta still brings in quality Malostranská pivnice C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 3, MMalos- international than Aussie. With 11 beers on tap and more performers and even attracts a president or two. Václav Havel transká, tel. (+420) 257 53 00 32, www.malostranskapiv- in bottles, this place is a dream and prices (Staropramen has brought Bill Clinton here twice now, and yes, he did play nice.cz. A Pilsner Urquell restaurant serving the flagship 12° 31Kč) are not that high considering its location. Two floors his sax. QOpen 21:00 - 24:00. PE brew for just 30Kč, with Kozel on tap and a large, sunny and of pub ambience and private rooms keep people lingering shady courtyard complete with weeping willow makes this a long after the hearty meals have been sufficiently washed U Malého Glena B-3, Praha 1, Karmelitská 23, super stop for liquid and solid sustenance on the tourist trail. down. QOpen 10:00 - 04:00, Sun 15:00 - 04:00. (100 - MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 17 17, www.maly- Inside, TVs draw crowds for sporting events, while the presence 800Kč). PAK glen.cz. Little Glen's is, appropriately, a tiny venue downstairs of locals and the friendly multi-lingual staff keep standards high. from a scrubbed wooden Irish-type bar, and hosts a wide QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. (120 - 600Kč). B U Černého vola Praha 1, Loretánské nám. 1, MMalos- spectrum of local bands, with a particularly strong roster of transká, tel. (+420) 220 51 34 81. It's almost unbelievable jazz and blues acts turning up regularly. You can book one of Martin's Irish Pub I-6, Praha 2, Lublaňská 57, MI.P. to find a genuine, top-quality, great priced Czech pub just up the 20 or so spots crammed in around the tables. QOpen Pavlova, tel. (+420) 222 51 81 17. This is an Irish bar for the hill from the castle. Yet here it is. A tiled hall full of wooden 10:00 - 02:00. Admission Mon, Tue & Thu 120Kč; Wed, Fri & locals who crave the beer and atmosphere of the Emerald benches, sextagenerians and the best Kozel on the planet. Sat 150Kč; Sun 70Kč. PAE Isle without the English-speakers. The menu lists Czech-style Walk up Nerudova (A-2), continue up Úvoz and make a right. international dishes and some of the cheapest Guinness in QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club E-2, Praha 1, Týnská ulička town at 59Kč. It's probably also the only pub of its genre to 2, MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 89 57 48, www. offer Kung Pao pork and only one TV. Odd, yet refreshing. U Zlatého tygra D-3, Praha 1, Husova 17, jazzblues.cz. Wander to the pub upstairs, and you'll be pleas- QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PBK MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 22 11 11, www. antly surprised by the cheerful atmosphere and cheap drinks. uzlatehotygra.cz. Havel took Bill Clinton here to demonstrate Go down the stairs and you descend into the more expected Merlin J-6, Praha 2, Bělehradská 68a, MI.P. Pavlova, Czech drinking culture (and let's face it, if there's one thing territory of clinging onto your cash for dear life, though it does tel. (+420) 222 52 20 54, http://merlin-pub.hyperlink. Havel knows, it's his booze). Get there by opening time to host some good bluesy jazz. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00; club open cz. Merlin the magician shares brick wall space with Guinness have any chance of getting in. The Pilsner brewery makes The Beer Factory I-5, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 58, 20:00 - 02:00. Admission free. posters and other emblems of Irishness, intermingled with special deliveries here - the beer is pumped directly into MMůstek, tel. (+420) 736 63 08 68. Down see-through antique agricultural contraptions. The long bar resembles the large tanks below the bar. A national institution. QOpen steps (which could make things hallucinogenic later on…) U Staré paní H-4, Praha 1, Michalská 9, MMůstek, tel. that of an authentic pub and the sofas add to the laid-back 15:00 - 23:00. K is this industrial-looking and functional, as the name sug- (+420) 603 55 16 80, www.jazzlounge.cz. An elevated feel. The lower level houses the restaurant, which serves gests, beer factory. Well located and easily locatable by the stage, a fancy Petrov grand piano and a regular schedule the usual options with more than a dash of a varied Mexican square's landmark statue, this beer hall's cavernous space of quality, contemporary jazz make U Staré paní a favourite menu. QOpen 11:30 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. K Sports bars should be packed daily - just look at those opening hours. venue for Prague's serious jazz aficionado, local, expatriate Dubliner Irish Bar F-2, Praha 1, Týn 1, MStaroměstská, Taps at your table serve Pilsner Urquell (at 39Kč) while mix and tourist alike. QOpen 18:00 - 02:00. PAEG Molly Malone's E-2, Praha 1, U Obecního dvora 4, tel. (+420) 224 89 54 04. Formerly Legends sports bar, the drinks, coffee and hearty Czech dishes are served up by the MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 81 88 51, www.mol- Dubliner bills itself as an Irish sports pub. Whatever, you've staff. TVs offer music and sport. QOpen 09:00 - 04:00. lymalones.cz. A quiet, nicely downbeat Irish pub. Odds and still got 12 TV's + 2 large screens now nestled in a homely (150 - 350Kč). PK Pubs ends of bashed about furniture clutter the scrubbed wooden Irish pub atmosphere. If there's an international sport match Caffrey's E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 10, floors making it a perfect oasis for fairly well-heeled slumming. you gotta watch it's highly likely you'll see it here. Weekends The Pack I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 21, MMuzeum, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 82 80 31, www.caffreys. Take your time contemplating the excellent menu over some visiting DJ's rule the roost. QOpen, Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, tel. (+420) 222 21 02 80, www.thepack.cz. Tailor cz. Good service and a great location on Staromětské nám. cider or a Guinness. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PAUK Sun 11:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. (100 - 400Kč). made for its fans with scantily clad waitresses, flat screen make this a popular Irish pub for many, including large parties PJAEK TVs in every room, Guinness and Strongbow (90/85Kč) of stag nighters. Old Town prices are justified by their excellent Na Poličce K-6, Praha 2, Moravská 40, MJiřího z on tap, a full English breakfast with Heinz beans, and food menu (try the authentic Irish breakfast), first rate Guinness, Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 603 83 88 99. The one police sta- Praga Sport Café E-4, Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám. opening hours to cater for sports from all continents. Bulmer's cider, Walker's crisps and more to make you feel right tion we'd gladly get locked in. Poličce has a young clientele 21, MMůstek. A paradoxically secluded and central spot A higher class of pub food is also available from wings at home. A good venue to watch all the major (GAA too) sporting and a noisy, smoky bierkeller atmosphere which is a great which attracts the stag partiers for its location off Wenceslas (150Kč) and burgers (250Kč) to the massive double filet events. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PABK accompaniment for their brews - this microbrewery has been Sq., for the several plasma screens showing all European mignon (950Kč). Gambrinus 55Kč. Q Open Mon & Fri fermenting their nectar since 1517. Dark and light beers on satellite channels and for the adult entertainment location 09:00 - 02:00; Tue - Thu 12:00 - 02:00; Sat, Sun 06:30 George & Dragon E-2, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. tap and in bottles, plus food and cocktails. Cheap too, at upstairs. Even after the whistle has blown, this sport bar - 02:00. JAK 11, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 32 61 37. A British just 14 - 17Kč for a beer. The door is on Chodská. QOpen is known to continue the party. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. pub landed slap bang in the middle of Old Town Square. TV 11:00 - 23:00. Also at Korunovační 9. K ABW Venue 73 I-1, Praha 7, Veletržní 73, MVltavská, screens, a big screen and footy shirts line the walls so it won't tel. (+420) 728 13 99 03, www.venue73.cz. In addi- remind you of the country outside. Good food, including an all Rocky O'Reilly's I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 32, Shamrock Irish Pub F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. tion to two (real) dart boards, 7 TVs and one big screen, day breakfast with the atmosphere you want to see your team MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 23 10 60, www.rockyoreil- 56, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 224 03 24 81. The two-floor semi-private booths in the VIP room with individual play and win, with any luck. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. ABK lys.cz. Photos of prestigious poets and pubs, Guinness on cellar space is accessible via a deceptively small entrance screens, English bacon, sausages (full breakfast from draught and an ‘O' in its name all meet the criteria for a clas- at street level. Upon entering, any subtlety is wiped out by 4 99Kč), Colman's and pickle, they will Jáma D-4, Praha 1, V jámě 7, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 sic Irish watering hole. Other perks include hearty portions massive projection screens, numerous smaller TVs around reputedly have live online betting and Sky High Definition. 22 23 83, www.jamapub.cz. The memorabilia may be a bit of international food including a huge Irish breakfast served the circular-ish room and hordes of chanting fans. Good food, The fabled curries never materialised, but the Sunday over the top, but it's preferable to the obligatory stop signs anytime, Sky Sports broadcast on several TVs and wait staff the famous Irish breakfast and all European channels attract roast (195Kč) and other Brit goodies more than satisfy. and imitation Coke/Pepsi prints elsewhere. The Hollow's that can easily draw your attention away from the football. sport fans and staggers alike. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat Gambrinus 25Kč, Pilsner Urquell 30Kč. QOpen 10:00 - worn wooden seats are home to expats and locals alike, who QOpen 10:00 - 01:00. PAK 10:00 - 04:00. (100 - 350Kč). PAK 23:00. (30 - 200Kč). K

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 64 PRAGUE CASTLE THE ESSENTIALS 65

St. Cathedral (Kat- The essentials of Prague - if you see nothing else, do not to the attacks on Soviet tanks with Molotov cocktails in edrála svatého Víta) miss these sights. Obviously in this city that has been a 1968. Towering above the square, half-hidden behind a row Moving into the third courtyard destination for hundreds of years, there is much to see of houses, is the fairy-turreted Týn Church. The centrepiece of the castle you’ll face one of Eu- and do, and one of the most enjoyable aspects is just of the square is a memorial to Jan Hus. It was draped in rope’s great Gothic cathedrals. wandering around. Don’t forget to look up as the gilded swastikas by the Nazis and in black cloth to mourn the passing St. Vitus is the spiritual heart of spires are rightfully what Prague is renowned for. But keep of the Prague Spring. the nation as the mausoleum of an eye of the ground too - dog owners are not renowned Bohemian kings and the city’s for their cleaning-up ability. Town Hall & Astronomi- greatest landmark. Work on the cal clock (Staromest- present cathedral was started in Charles Bridge (Karlův ská radnice) E-3, Praha 1344 but it wasn’t consecrated most) C-3, Praha 1, 1, Staroměstské nám., until 1929. Check out Mucha’s MStaroměstská. Karlův MStaroměstská. The 14th stained glass window and the most joins Staré Město (Old century Town Hall complex door with seven locks leading Town) and the Malá Strana features a tower with an as- to the crown jewels. Don’t miss (Little Quarter) and is one of tronomical clock, added in the The largest collection of wonders in the city, Prague castle the beautiful mosaic depicting the Last Judgment of Christ on the the world’s most beautiful 15th century. Every hour on the is an amalgamation of architecture from different periods. exterior of the cathedral. The mosaic is 84 square metres and bridges. The bridge was built hour Jesus and his disciples From the almost pastoral serenity of St. George’s Basilica, was created in 1371. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. in 1357, but the figures of saints were added during the lead a pageant that includes to the awe-inspiring Gothic power of St. Vitus Cathedral, 17th century. They symbolise the confidence of the Catholic the allegorical figures of Death, the castle has attractions for all - history and architecture Old Royal Palace (Starý královský palác). One of the Austrian’s triumph over the Protestant Hussites. The bridge is the Turk, the Miser, the Fool plus marching soldiers and entertainment. oldest and most impressive parts of the castle, the Old Royal thronged all day with tourists, while at night it offers wonderful and the Rooster. It sounds Palace dates from 1135 and was the seat of Bohemian princes. views of the illuminated castle and Old Town. Go at dawn to be more impressive than it actu- Approach & Entry A-1, Praha 1, Hradčany, tel. 224 37 From the 13th to the 16th century it was the king’s palace. The alone and witness the saints emerging from the mist. ally is, but it’s still worth a look. 33 68, www.hrad.cz. There are two information centres, magnificent Vladislav Hall was used for banquets, councils, The climb or lift up the tower one in the second courtyard and one in the third. Here you coronations and even jousting. All presidents have been sworn Municipal House (Obec- is rewarded by the stunning views. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, can find out what time the changing of the guard takes place, in here, and this building was where the 1618 defenestration ní Dům) F-3, Praha 1, nám. Mon 11:00 - 18:00. Admission 60/40Kč. buy tickets and get audio guides. took place. The palace contains The Story of Prague Castle Republiky 5, MNám. Re- There are four ways to approach the castle. By far the best exhibition. Don’t forget to have a look at the Rampart Gardens publiky, tel. 222 00 21 27, Vyšehrad H-7, Praha 2, way is to take tram N°22 to the Pohořelec stop, where you start below. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. Admission 120/60Kč. www.obecnidum.cz. The Soběslavova 1, MVyšehrad. with breathtaking views of Prague from Strahov Monastery; magnificent Obecní Dům build- The rocky cliff-top boasts then walk down through beautiful Hradčanská district along (Zlatá ing holds two restaurants, Prague’s second castle. In Loretánská towards the main castle entrance on Hradčanské ulička) The phrase ‘pic- a super café, an American the hearts and minds of many náměstí. You can skip the Hradčanská walk by getting off the turesque street’ might have bar, a gallery, shop and clas- Czechs, Vyšehrad symbolises tram earlier, at the Pražský hrad stop, from where you enter been invented to describe sical music venue. Built between 1905 and 1910 in the the birth of the Czech nation the second courtyard. Alternatively, walk up Nerudova and the this tiny cobbled lane with its architecturally stunning Art Nouveau style, the Municipal and is shrouded in legend and steep hill from Malostranské náměstí. The worst approach is miniature workers’ cottages House has been painstakingly restored to its former glory. myth. This is apparently the up the Staré zámecké schody steps near Malostranská metro - now shops. It was on this It was here that the Czechoslovakian state was signed into spot where Princess Libuše station; these are best kept for the way down. Q Buildings & street, or so legend has it, being on October 28, 1918. It was also here in 1989 that stood and predicted the rise of Info: From 1 November - 31 March: open 09:00 - 16:00. Court- that 16th-century alchemists communist bureaucrats and revolution leaders of the Civic a great city. Literally translated yards (admission free) open 06:00 - 23:00. Castle gardens laboured to discover the Philosopher’s Stone to make gold Forum discussed the velvet transfer of power and the state’s as ‘high castle’, it was probably and Jelení příkop are closed. From 1 April - 31 October: open from lead. Franz Kafka spent evenings at his sister’s house, transformation to democracy. founded in the middle of the 09:00 - 18:00. (admission free) open 05:00 - 24:00. N°22. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. 10th century. In 972 Prince Castles gardens and Jeleni prikop 10:00 - 18:00. Admission National Theatre (Národ- Boleslav II built the royal mint here, and in 1085 Vratislav to the Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica, Powder Tower, Daliborka Tower Built in 1496 and used as a prison till the ní divadlo) C-4, Národní 2, II selected it as his residence. Over the following centuries Picture Gallery and Golden Lane: 350Kč (long tour.) Cathedral, end of 18th century, the tower stands on your left as you exit the MNárodní třída, tel. 224 successive kings remodelled the palace and fortress, but Old Royal Palace, St. George’s Basilica and Golden Lane: 250Kč Golden Lane. It is so named for its first prisoner, Dalibor of Kozojedy, 90 14 48. This lavish neo- moved their permanent home across the river. Within the (short tour.) Reductions for families. whose story was told by Smetana in his 1868 opera Dalibor. The Renaissance building on the fortress confines is the national cemetery (Vyšehradský underground cell is truly terrifying. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00. bank of the Vltava, with its hřbitov), which from the 1870s became the final resting place Sternberg Palace (Šternberský palác) Hradčanské golden crown of chariot-driving of many of the most famous Czech writers and composers, nám. 15. Sharing an entrance with the Archbishop’s Palace Royal Gardens & Stag Moat (Královská zahrada) women, is Prague’s National including Jan Neruda, Bedřich Smetana and Antonín Dvořák. is the Šternberský palác from 1698. It’s part of the National North of the castle walls are a succession of orderly and Theatre. The building was completed in 1881 and was QOpen 09:30 - 17:30. Gallery and home to a collection of European art, including manicured gardens. They were first laid out in 1534 and are almost immediately destroyed by fire. It reopened in 1883. Rubens and Rembrandt. In 1991 thieves stole US$2.6 million home to the Míčovna or Ball Game Hall, the most ornate See Events for the current programme. Wenceslas Square worth of Picassos. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. sports centre we’ve ever seen. Further along the eastern (Václavské náměstí) edge of the castle area you can find the Renaissance summer Old Town Square F-4, Praha 1, Václavské First courtyard Pause at the castle gates to admire the palace (Královský letohrádek), where Europe’s first tulips, a (Staromě stské nám., MMůstek. Václavské soldiers’ uniforms (designed by the wardrobe designer of the present from Turkey, were cultivated. The views over the náměstí) E-3, Praha 1, náměstí is actually a boule- film Amadeus), and hopefully see the changing of the guard. castle and city are great from here. MStaroměstská. The indis- vard running down from the Then move into the courtyard flanking the presidential rooms, The Stag Moat (Jelení příkop, open 09:00 - 16:00) below the putable heart of Prague. This National Museum and the which are not open to the public. These are numerous and ramparts of the castle was reopened to the general public by vast open space is flanked by equestrian statue of Saint include the Spanish Hall, once the venue for meetings of the President Vaclav Havel. Despite the name there hasn’t been a a pleasing blend of carefully Wenceslas to Můstek, former- Czechoslovak Communist Party. As you walk through the stag here since ravenous soldiers gobbled up the last of them restored architectural styles: ly the site of a city gate and drawbridge. This is where crowds archway, the steps on your right are where many of the official by the 17th century. The gardens on the southern side of the Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque traditionally come to demonstrate against their incompetent greetings are made to visiting heads of state. castle can be entered via steps to the right of the main castle and neo-styles. The square is rulers, and this was where, in 1989, thousands gathered to gate. The main garden on the southern side is the ramparts notable for its constant hum of shake their keys in celebration of the death of the Communist Second courtyard Reconstructed by Empress Maria garden (Zahrada Na Valech), which overlooks Malá Strana. The activity, day and night, and a Party. Rows of shops, hotels (note the Art Nouveau glory of Theresa, this courtyard acts as an intersection point for Rampart Gardens are bordered to the west by the Paradise long history as centre stage for Hotel Europa) and nightclubs flank the pavements, and by two of the entrances into the castle. You can exit under the Garden (Rajská zahrada) and on the south to the Hartig Garden so many of the city’s defining night it can get a bit sleasy. Thankfully, there are plans to rid archway to reach the Stag Moat, Royal Gardens and trams (Hartigovská zahrada), which surrounds the Music Pavilion moments, from the execution the square of cars, bury the highway in front of the museum in N°22 and 23. (Hudební pavilon).QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed in winter of preacher J. Želivský in 1422, a tunnel and have tram N°11 make a come-back.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 66 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 67

there is the brickwork supposedly from the original Loreto in Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church H-5, Praha 1, Dvořák Museum I-6, Praha 2, Ke Karlovu 20, tel. Churches Italy which was flown over from Italy by some well-meaning Resslova 9, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+420) 224 92 06 (+420) 224 92 33 63, www.nm.cz. The Dvořák Museum Bethlehem Chapel angels. Blasphemers take note - the split in the wall was sup- 86. This Orthodox church was built in honour of Sts. Cyril and is housed in the so-called Villa America, a Baroque summer (Betlémská Kaple) posedly caused by a thunderbolt fired off at one of your kind. Methodius, the men responsible for the Slavonic alphabet. palace designed by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, who was D-3, Praha 1, Betlémské Q Open 09:00 - 12:15, 13:00 - 16:30. Admission 110/90Kč. However, most people know about this church because of also responsible for the beautiful St. Nicholas Church in náměstí, MStaroměstská. what happened here at 04:10 on the morning of June 18, Malá Strana. This museum houses a good collection of From 1402 to 1412, Jan Hus Our Lady of Snow (U 1942 when the Nazis had discovered that the seven Czech memorobilia from the life and work of Dvořák, the Czech preached at the Bethlehem Panny Marie Sněžné) E-4, parachutists involved in the assassination of Reichsprotektor composer famous for the New World Symphony, among Chapel, hence it's significance Praha 1, Jungmannovo nám, Heydrich were hiding in the crypt. The west side of Karlovo others. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission for non-Catholics, but in 1622, MMůstek. The towering náměstí was cordoned off by 800 troops from the SS and the 40Kč. the Jesuits took control of the Gothic torso hidden near Vá- Gestapo. Three of the soldiers died as the SS stormed the chapel and Catholic mass clavské náměstí was started church. The remaining four fought on. After hours of shoot- Dvorak Sec Contemporary E-2, Praha 1, Dlouhá became the service of the day. off in 1347 by Charles IV as ing and a long stand-off which led to the Germans deciding 5, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 604 20 46 53, info@ Then in 1786 it was levelled, a Carmelite order monastery. to literally flush them out, they used their last bullets on dvoraksec.com, www.dvoraksec.com. In addition to only to be rebuilt (somewhat Construction was stopped by the Hussites in 1419, and only each other. The bullet-scarred exterior wall holds a plaque displaying their own collections, the new gallery space in strangely) by the communists, the 34m-high choir of the planned 110m-long church was in honour of their bravery. Q Crypt open 10:00 - 17:00; Sun Old Town offers young and emerging artists as well as more who had preserved its archi- finished. The Franciscans renovated the ruins of the church in 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. established international artists. Their newly reconstructed tectural plans in 1950. Apparently, they were keen to exploit 1604, adding the magnificent Renaissance altar. The peace- building is an amazing space in itself. QOpen 9:00 - 18:00. the chapel's symbolism as an historic emblem of Czech ful adjacent monastery gardens (Františkánská zahrada) are Closed Sat, Sun. national pride. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon. an excellent place to soak up the sun. Museums & Galleries City Museum (Muzeum hlavního města Prahy) Futura Praha 5, Holečkova 49, MAnděl, tel. (+420) Church of Our Lady Victorious B-3, Praha 1, Karmel- St. Ignatius Church (Kostel Sv. Ignáce) H-5, Praha B-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 52, tel. (+420) 224 81 67 72, 251 51 18 04, www.futuraproject.com. This non-profit itská 9, MMalostranská, tel. (+420) 257 53 36 46, 2, Ječná 2, MKarlovo náměstí, tel. (+420) 224 92 12 54. www.muzeumprahy.cz. This homage to the city of a gallery was opened in June 2003 to provide an accessible www.prag-jesu.info. This house of worship was built by The construction of what was intended to be a basilica began hundred spires includes a paper model of the city that took space for contemporary art. Three floors of a renovated German Lutherans between 1611-1615. To the right of in 1665 on these very grounds. In 1671 the church alongside 11 years to create and a gigantic model of the entire city factory. Tram 4, 7, 9, 10 to Bertramka. Q Open Wed - Sun the entrance is a commemorative site to the 16th century Karlovo Square was finally completed and the large statue at the beginning of the 19th century. This wood and paper 11:00 - 18:00. Spanish nun, St. Therese of Avila, who along with friar John of of Saint Ignatius, the founder of the Jesuit order, was placed model was made from 1829-1837 by Antonin Langweil and the Cross, reformed the Carmelite order into what is known on top. The church is still active and run by Jesuit monks. is a highlight to the museum. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Galerie Jaroslava Fragnera D-4, Praha 1, Betlémské as the Discalced Carmelites. Further inside is the church's Mon. Admission 110/40Kč. náměstí 5a, tel. (+420) 222 22 21 57, www.gjf.cz. An claim to fame, a 45cm high wax statuette of Jesus known St. Nicholas Church B-2, exhibition hall showcasing, for the most part, the artistic ele- as the Infant Jesus of Prague, which is a pilgrimage site of Praha1, Malostranské nám. Cubism Museum F-3, Praha 1, Ovocný trh 19, MNám. ments of architecture. The gallery works in partnership with sorts - for its historical and religious importance, and a couple 38, MMalostranská, tel. Republiky, tel. (+420) 224 21 17 46, www.ngprague. the Czech Architecture Foundation and exhibits fine examples of unnamed miracles that have been attached to it. QOpen (+420) 224 19 09 91. Con- cz. The angular grace of 1920s cubism is apparent in the of groundbreaking Czech and international architectural mar- 08:30 - 19:00, Sun 08:30 - 20:00. struction of this Baroque pile minimalist and abstract lines of the sculptures, paintings, vels. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 40/20. began in 1673, but it would be furniture, ceramics and architecture on show at this small but Loreta A-1, Praha 1, Loren- nearly another 80 years until delightful museum. Cubism in the Czech Republic permeated Galerie La Femme E-2, Praha 1, Bílkova 2, tánské nám. 7. One of the the Jesuits completed it. Peer all aspects of design, applied arts and graphics, which is beau- MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 81 26 56, www.glf. country's most famous places closely at the copper statue tifully illustrated by the variety of exhibits. The House at the cz. A small but fully laden gallery celebrating woman as eternal of pilgrimage, this chapel is just of St. Nicholas above the gold Black Madonna, which houses the museum, was built in 1911 inspiration, although the myriad pieces hanging, stacked or a quick walk from the main coated altar; the two statues as a department store and is itself a monument to Cubism. free standing have subjects beyond women. Vibrant oils, entrance to the castle. Built below him are of St. Ignatius QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100/50Kč. tactile sculptures, evocative sketches, international exhibi- between 1626-1720, this Loyola and St. Francis Xavier. tions and more make La Femme a place to explore and buy. Baroque building contains, The ceiling fresco depicts Czech Museum of Fine Arts (České muzeum QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. among other icons and ob- the apotheosis of St. Nicholas. Also of interest is the organ, výtvarných umění v Praze) D-3, Praha 1, Husova jects, a painting of a bearded which has 2500 pipes and 44 registers, and it was these 19 - 21, tel. (+420) 222 22 02 18, www.cmvu.cz. Large Galerie Václava Špály Praha 1, Národní 30, MMůstek, lady, ornate friezes, bejewelled very ivories that Mozart tinkled on his visit to Prague. QOpen collection of fine arts including classics and more modern tel. (+420) 224 94 67 38, www.spalovka.cz. The Galerie icons and a high quota of 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 70/50Kč. works. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50Kč. Václava Špály is once again open to the public and promising chubby-cheeked cherubs. The the same prestigious exhibitions it was once renowned for. small museum also houses a Strahov Monastery Praha Decorative Arts Museum (UpM) D-2, Praha 1, 17. Špála was a Czech avant-garde painter from the early 20th collection of diamond ostensories. Within the main chapel 1, Strahovské nádvoří 1, tel. listopadu 2, tel. (+420) 251 09 31 35, www.upm.cz. century. The museum’s heyday was in the late 60’s-early (+420) 233 10 77 18, www. Basically, this is a museum of stuff. Its permanent exhibit 70’s, and again after 1989. The beginning of the new century strahovskyklaster.cz. The showcases what normal articles (clocks, ceramics, glass, saw a change in management and vision. Now, it’s back and Tourist information Strahov Monastery has stood clothing, photographs, furniture) from the 19th-20th century. the art scene will be richer for it. Expect a wide-variety of on the approach to the castle You won’t bump into philosopher Emmanuel Kant here; he contemporary art from both foreign and local artists. QOpen Around Prague Information Centre E-3, Praha 1, since 1140. Today, this Ro- believed that an esthetic object is only art if it has no use 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/10Kč. Celetná 14, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 224 49 17 manesque monastery houses (he’s also long dead). Built in 1899 in commemoration of Franz 64/(+420) 224 49 17 22, www.aroundprague.cz. various museums for religious Josef becoming emperor, the building itself is impressive, too. Gallery KusKovu J-3, Praha 1, Biskupský dvůr 6, Tickets, accommodation, sightseeing tours, guidebooks, arts and is home to the quite QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 80/40Kč. A MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 737 20 01 27, www.kus- maps and more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. stunning central chapel. The kovu.cz. The Piece of Metal gallery is a blacksmith’s delight, Museum of Czech Literature DOX Centre for Contemporary Art Praha 7, Osadní showing and selling metal sculptures, objects and jewellery. Prague Info E-3, Praha 1, Staroměstské nám. 1, (open 09:00 - 12:00; 13:00 - 34, tel. (+420) 224 93 09 27, [email protected], QOpen 13:00 - 20:00, Sat 13:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. (Old Town Hall), MStaroměstské, www.prague-info. 17:00, admission 50Kč), is housed in the monastic libraries. www.doxprague.org. Opened in October 2008; DOX is cz. This excellent official tourist information centre pro- The Theological and Philosophical Halls are superb but sure to make a splash on Prague’s still burgeoning contem- Historical Museum A-1, Praha 1, Pražský hrad, Jiřská vides vocal and written information in various languages can only be viewed from the doorways. Items available for porary art scene. The building itself is amazing - a mix of old 3, tel. (+420) 257 53 59 79, www.nm.cz. Lobkovický from helpful and knowledgeable staff, plus tickets, excur- closer inspection are manuscripts from the 14th century, metal factory and new build right in the heart of industrial Palac, in the castle area, dates back to the 9th century and sions, and accommodation. For general information in a stuffed dodo, and a large collection of crabs, fish, shells Holešovice. Organizers plan to showcase present contem- the origins of the castle itself. The palace, which was restored English, Czech or German call tel. 124 44. QOpen 09:00 and insects. The Strahov Gallery in the central courtyard porary art from around the world; as well as offer exposure to during the Renaissance, now houses the Historical Museum, - 19:30. Also at I-3, Praha hlavní nádraží & B-2, Praha 1, (open 09:00 - 17:00, admission 35Kč) has one of the finest Czech contemporary artists. QOpen , Mon, Sat, Sun 10:00 - which, as its name implies, gives a detailed history of the Malá Strana Tower, open 10:00 - 18:00. collections of monastic art in . Trams N°22,23 18:00, Wed, Thu, Fri 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue. Adults: 120kč country until 1848. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. to Pohořelec. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 60/40Kč. Children: 80kč. Admission 40Kč.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 68 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 69

House at the White Unicorn (Dům u bílého Leica Gallery Praha 1, Školská 28, MMůstek, tel. Jewish Prague jednorožce) E-3, Praha 1, Staromestské nám. 15, (+420) 608 96 35 24, www.lgp.cz. Their new Gallery will MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 222 31 39 09, www. be open again on 7 May. Check out their cafe, bookshop, and Prague’s Jewish community was one of the oldest in Spanish Synagogue (Španělská synagoga) E-2, daliexhibition.cz. This central exhibition space caters to the of course some of the best photo exhibits in town. QOpen Europe, and rich in history, legend and tragedy. Here, the Praha 1, Dušní 12. This neo-Moorish structure was big names, and not only in Czech art. Much to the delight of 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. story goes, Rabbi Loew created the Golem nearly half a built in 1868 to replace the previously demolished Old the world’s moustache aficionados, this house is exhibiting millennium ago. Synagogue. It is a beautiful building outside and in, with a a selection of graphics, sculpture and pottery from Salvador Mánes Exhibition Hall G-5, Praha 1, Masarykovo The community was confined to a ghetto until 1781 domed ceiling, Islamic motifs and stained glass. Restored Dali. Another area is dedicated to Alfons Mucha, the master nábřeží 250, tel. (+420) 224 93 0 7 54, www.nadace- when Josef II issued the Edict of Tolerance, which per- in 1998, the synagogue houses an exhibition on the history of Art Nouveau while a neighbouring house (E-3, Praha 1, cfu.cz. A major exhibition space for all forms of modern mitted the free exercise of religion and the secularisation of Czech Jews. Celetná 9, tel. 222 31 30 64) hosts a selection of images and contemporary art from the Czech Art Fund Foundation. of education, science and art. The Jewish town is called from the infamous photographer Jan Saudek. QOpen 10:00 QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Josefov to this day in his honour. Old New Synagogue (Staronová synagoga) E-2, - 20:00. Admission 150/70Kč. Saudek & Mucha 150/70Kč From the 1880s, in the name of slum-clearing, most Praha 1, Červená 2. Of all the synagogues in Prague, this or 250/120Kč combined ticket. Miniatures Museum Praha 1, Strahovské nádvoří of Josefov was razed to the ground and only a few is perhaps the most important. It has stood here since 11, tel. (+420) 233 35 23 71, www.muzeumminiatur. synagogues, the cemetery and the Josefov town hall the 13th century, and despite fires, floods and the Nazi Jewellery Collection C-2, Praha 1, Cihelná 2b, tel. com. This museum contains odd scribblings on grains remained. Wide new streets with grand Art Nouveau occupation, remains todayQ the functional, spiritual centre (+420) 221 45 13 33. The Hergetova cihelna (brickyard of rice, the Lord’s Prayer written on one human hair, the buildings emerged in place of the decrepit old tenement of the Jewish community. Open 09:00 - 16:30, Fri 09:00 building) near Karlův most, houses an exhibition from the world’s smallest book, and minitures of masterpieces. buildings. - 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 200Kč. collection of the Museum of Decorative Arts. This incredible They have magnifying glasses. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Later still, the Nazis all but annihilated Prague’s Jewish array of pieces illustrating the the art of jewellery design from Admission 50Kč. legacy, saving the monuments as their planned epitaph High Synagogue (Vysoká synagoga) E-2, Praha 1, the 17th century includes items from Fabergé and Tiffany. to a vanished culture. The post-war communists did little Červená 4. The High Synagogue is no longer open to the QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Mozart Museum (Bertramka) Praha 5, Mozartova to alleviate the persecution - many of the remaining Jew- public. It is next to the Old New Synagogue - note the clock 169, MAnděl, tel. (+420) 257 31 67 53, www. ish inhabitants chose to emigrate. on the façade of the pink building next door; it has Hebrew Jiří Světská Gallery J-3, Praha 1, Biskupský dvůr 6, bertramka.cz. This museum, dedicated to the Austrian numbers and turns counter-clockwise. MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) 222 31 10 92, www. Wunderkind and the family he lived with in Prague, is located Jewish Museum (Židovské muzeum) E-2, Praha jirisvestka.com. A private gallery that promotes modern in a 17th century villa. The villa, owned by the Dušek family, 1, U Staré školy 1, tel. 221 71 15 62, www.jewishmu- New Jewish Cemetery (Židovské hřbitovy) Praha M and contemporary art in the Czech Republic and internation- is where Mozart wrote Don Giovanni. There’s a bust of the seum.cz. The starting point for an exploration of Prague’s 3, Vinohradská, Želivského, tel. 272 74 18 93. Much ally and has garnered renown by introducing Czech artists to famed composer in the villa gardens, and music scores and Jewish past and present. Unfortunately, the idea for a larger and much less visited than the Old Town Cemetery. major galleries overseas. In addition to their collections, and concert posters are preserved inside. QOpen 09:30 - 17:00. museum encompassing the Jewish Quarter is not new. Founded in 1890, it has some impressive graves from the exhibitions, it has a large collection of art periodicals plus art Admission 110/50Kč. The reason that the main buildings and cemetery in the early 1900s. Franz Kafka is buried at grave N°137. and architectural titles in Czech and English. Q Open 12:00 - Jewish Quarter are still intact, is that Hitler intended to 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun & Mon. Mucha Museum F-4, Praha 1, Panská 7, MMůstek, transform the quarter into an epitaph to a vanished culture. Žižkov Jewish Ceme- tel. (+420) 221 45 13 33, www.mucha.cz. Mucha shaped The Jewish Museum supervises the Old Jewish Cemetery, tery Prague 3, Fibichova. Kafka Museum C-2, Praha the Art Nouveau movement with his groundbreaking (and the Old Ceremonial Hall, and the Pinkas, Klausen, Maisel Only a peaceful small corner 1, Hergetova Cihelna, Ci- often stolen from Paris’ streets) posters for actress Sarah and Spanish Synagogues, but not the Old New Synagogue, remains of this Jewish cem- helná 2b, tel. (+420) 257 53 Bernhardt and the Theatre de la Renaissance, and has although you can buy a combined ticket for entry to all. The etary at the foot of the TV 55 07, www.kafkamuseum. some renown as a photographer with the studies for his high admission price causes many budget-conscious visi- tower. Originally a plague cz. This new collection entitled various masterpieces. He also has an excellent shot of a tors turn away at the gates, butQ despite this, you’ll need to cemetary established well The City of K. Franz Kafka and trouserless Paul Gauguin at a harmonium. A fitting tribute to go early to avoid the crowds. Open 09:00 - 16:30. Closed away from the city limits in Prague opened in Barcelona artistic genius, whether you prefer his pastel seasons, the Sat. Admission 300/200Kč for all sights. 1680, 40,000 people were in 1999, transferred to the accusing desperation of the Slav Epic (his incomplete and buried here until 1890. Baroque, EmpireQ and Romantic Jewish Museum in New York in 2002 and opened in Prague huge magnum opus of which there are strangely no photos), Klausen Synagogue (Klausenová synagoga) D-2, style tombstones survived the ages. Open Tue & Thu in the summer of 2005. This museum illuminates the crucial or modern prints on everything from coasters to mousepads. Praha 1, U Starého hřbitova 3A. A Judaic Baroque build- 09:00 - 13:00. Admission 20Kč. relationship between the man and the city. It is divided into Don’t miss the short biographical film. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. ing which houses a permanent exhibition showing Jewish Existential Space where we see what Prague did with and Admission 120Kč. customs and traditions - and the occasional art exhibition. Jubilee Synagogue (Jubilejní synagoga) I-4, to Kafka, and Imaginary Topography which looks at how Next door is the Ceremonial Hall. Praha 1, Jeruzalémská 1310/7, tel. 222 31 90 02. Kafka creates enigmatic layers of his city through first editions Museum of Communism F-4, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 10, The newest, biggest, and arguably most spectacular and letters, diaries and manuscripts, and audiovisual pieces. tel. (+420) 224 21 29 66, www.muzeumkomunismu.cz. Maisel Synagogue (Maiselova synagoga) E-2, Praha of Prague’s synagogues, the Jubilee Synagogue is so QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 120/60Kč. The posters featuring the workers of the state, featuring a 1, Maiselova 10. Maisel Synagogue is home to a large collec- called because it was decided upon on the 50th an- mix of socialist-realism which produces simultaneous hilarity tion of silverware, previously confiscated from Jewish families niversary of the accession of Franz Joseph I. Built in Kampa Museum B-3, Praha 1, U Sovových mlýnů 2, and dark brooding, are almost worth the entrance fee on by the Nazis. Their permanent exhibition, The History of Jews pseudo-Moorish style and dedicated on 16 Sept 1906 tel. (+420) 257 28 61 47, www.museumkampa.cz. their own. Errant and erratic household objects can give in Bohemia and Moravia, is definitely worth a visit. during the festival of Simhat Torah, the synagogue Museum Kampa is located on the west bank of the Vltava in this place an incomplete feel, however, the photos and has a service on Sat at 09:00 and is open to visi- the shadow of Prague Castle. The museum has on display historical information on display are a minimalist introduc- Pinkas Synagogue (Pinkasova synagoga) D-2, tors from 23 Apr - 31 Oct from 13:00 - 17:00 (except three major permanent exhibitions, featuring works by the tion to the events of this period. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Praha 1, Široká 3. The walls inside Pinkas Synagogue Saturdays). pioneering abstract artist František Kupka, Cubist sculptor Admission 180Kč. are chillingly covered with the names of 77,297 Jewish Otto Gutfreund and a large collection of modern works dating Holocaust victims from Bohemia and Moravia. There is also Prague’s Schindler Three trainloads of Jewish from the 1950’s to present day by Central European artists. Muzeum Karlova Mostu (Charles Bridge a permanent exhibition of children’s drawings from Terezin children were able to escape from German-occupied They also have temporary exhibits. The museum has a beau- Museum) D-3, Praha 1, Křížovnické nám. 3, concentration camp, drawn between 1942 and 1944. Prague in the spring and summer of 1939, before war tiful restaurant with an outside terrace overlooking the river. MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 739 30 95 51, www. broke out, thanks to the efforts of the man dubbed A visit to Museum Kampa is definitely worthwhile. QOpen muzeumkarlovamostu.cz. This new museum, opened Old Jewish Cemetery (Starý židovský hřbitov) (post-Spielberg, of course) the Schindler of Prague. Bill 10:00 - 18:00. Admission varies according to exhibition. to coincide with the 650th anniversary of the building D-2, Praha 1, Široká 2, (entrance from Pinkas Syna- Barazetti, together with a British stockbroker, arranged of Charles Bridge in 1357 (the clever number logo is no gogue). From the 14th century until 1747, this was the final papers and transport for three trainloads of children - Langhans Galerie I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 37, coincidence, 135797531. The first stone was laid at resting place for Prague’s Jewish community; some 12,000 the Kindertransporte - to leave the city and travel via MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 92 93 33, www.lang- 05:31 on 9 July). English texts are available to explain the graves are said to be piled one on top of the other. Oldest the Netherlands to safety in London. A fourth train left hansgalerie.cz. The sleek lined, clean-cut minimalism of unique Knights of the Red Cross hospital location, their and most famous is that of Rabbi Loew, which is the grave Prague on the eve of the war but it never reached the a award-winning symbiosis of old and new architecture is church and crypt, various bridges; an arch and pillar of the with the most pebbles piled on top of it - a Jewish tradition. Netherlands and was not heard of again. In August 1939 complemented beautifully by the photographic exhibitions even older (1158 - 1172) Judit Bridge, and others in the To visit the cemetery, men will have to cover their heads; Barazetti fled to Britain, but it was 50 years before his hanging on its walls. Behind the Foto Škoda store, which in region, construction techniques, etc. Charles Bridge, with kippas are provided at the entrance. story became known. itself is a museum of old and new cameras. QOpen 12:00 its statues and history, is the focus but there is so much - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 60/20Kč. more. Fascinating. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. 150/70Kč.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 70 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 71

National Museum (Národní muzeum) F-4, Praha Transport Museum Praha 6, Patočkova 4, MHradcan- Prague Sightseeing Tours I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 1, Václavské nám. 68, tel. (+420) 224 49 71 11, ská, tel. (+420) 296 12 49 00, www.dpp.cz/muzeum- 52, tel. (+420) 222 31 46 61/(+420) 602 37 55 52, fax www.nm.cz. Permanent exhibitions include pre-historical, mhd. See beautifully restored classic trams and buses from (+420) 222 31 80 17, www.pstours.cz. City tours, boat mineralogical, palaeontological, zoological, and there is a the glory days of Prague trolleys in this converted depot. Read trips and excursions. Q A good collection of bronze statues of famous Czechs is in the the history and see the uniforms, old advertising hoardings, pantheon of the building. One of the most celebrated build- maps and photographs. The historical tram (N°91, hourly Precious Legacy Tours D-2, Praha 1, Kaprova 13, ings in Prague, but its exhibits are not nearly as impressive. from 12:00 - 18:00) leaves from here on a journey past the tel./fax (+420) 222 32 19 54, www.legacytours.cz. QOpen 9:00 - 17:00, Wed 9:00 - 20:00. Closed every first castle and Václavské náměsti. Q Open Sat, Sun and public Besides doing the run-of-the-mill city tours this company also Tue of the month. Admission 150/100Kč. holidays only 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 35/20. organises an extensive array of Jewish history and culture tours in Prague and throughout Eastern Europe. Robert Guttmann Gallery (Jewish Museum) E-2, Troja Chateau Praha Praha 1, U Staré školy 3, MStaroměstská, tel. (+420) 1, U trojského zámku 1, Premiant City Tour H-4, Praha 1, Nekázanka 11, tel. 221 71 15 11, www.jewishmuseum.cz. As synagogues M Nádraží Holešovice, (+420) 224 01 28 20, www.premiant.cz. A variety of and prayer rooms began to be demolished by Prague’s mu- tel. (+420) 283 85 16 14, tours for a variety of tourists, there are combination bus and nicipal offices at the end of the 19th century, the Czech-Jewish www.citygalleryprague.cz. walking tours, brief tours, in-depth tours, the rest of the Czech community applied their vigour to creating a Jewish Museum A grand 17th century summer Republic tours and many more. The cheapest is Brief Prague wherein ritual objects could be saved from destruction and palace built for Count Václav at 250Kč. Q A kept for future generations. Thus, in 1906 Prague’s Jewish Vojtěch Šternberg, Troja has Museum began with a modest collection. Today, it is celebrat- French gardens littered with ing its centenary with an exhibit here entitled Defying the Baroque sculptures right on the river below the Botanical Curiosities Beast (until 1 Oct). The museum is closed on Jewish holidays gardens and next to the Zoo. It was originally situated here to Dancing Fountains (Křižíkova Fontána) Praha 7, too. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 40/20Kč. be opposite Stromovka royal game preserve (now Stromovka Průmyslový palác (Výstaviště), tel. (+420) 220 10 32 Park), which it is linked to today by a pedestrian bridge, but 80, www.krizikovafontana.cz. Water and lights accom- Rudolfinum D-2, Praha be warned it is no short walk to the closest tram stop once panied by music (from Carmina Burana to Queen) and on 1, Alšovo nábř . 12, you start. Jean-Baptiste Mathey designed the palace, which occasion, people. This is actually far more enthralling than MStaromětská, tel. (+420) Šternberg spared no expense on. Its most striking feature it sounds - really. 227 05 92 05, www.gal- is the external double staircase ornamented by statues of erierudolfinum.cz. Commis- Titanic struggles with Olympian gods. The interior is no Lennon Wall B-3, Praha 1, Malá Strana, sioned as concert halls and less impressive with magnificent vaulted ceilings, paintings, Velkopřevoské nám.. Opposite the French embassy is exhibition space and named sculptures, murals and frescoes - especially the giant, florid the Lennon Wall. During the communist era it was here after the Austrian Prince Royal tribute to a Hapsburg victory in the Grand Hall. After major that revolutionaries daubed anti-government slogans AquaPalace Aqua Park Pražská 138, tel. (+420) 271 who attended the opening in 1885, this is now home to reconstruction of the house and garden in 1998, the Chateau thereby running the risk of arrest. Today the wall is cov- 10 41 11, [email protected], www.aquapalace.cz. When the Czech Philharmonic and an exhibition space. With no became an annex of the City Gallery, housing a collection of ered with graffiti - poems and words of peace written by one more museum will just about do them in; treat the kids to permanent collection, the gallery is dedicated to temporary Baroque glass and a collection of 19th century Czech paint- millions of visitors from around the world. Not really what a watery side of Prague. No, we don't mean toss them in the exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30, Thu 10:00 - 19:30. Closed ings. Troja was hard hit in the 2002 floods, but the gardens it used to be; but people still visit. Vltava, but bring them to AquaPalace Aqua Park. Pools, slides, Mon. Admission 120/60Kč. U and house are back in their former glory. From the metro, wave pool, whirlpool and a river, plus a variety of saunas and a hop on tram 5, 17, 25 to Trojská or bus 112 to the Zoo. Victims of Communism Memorial A-4, Újezd fitness centre for the adults. Plan on spending the day. Take bus Smetana Museum C-3, Praha 1, Novotného lávka QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 120/60Kč, tram stop. Near the funicular railway station and op- 324, 325, 328, 363 or 385 from the Opatov metro station to 1, tel. (+420) 222 22 00 82, www.nm.cz. Classical ap- gardens free. posite the Újezd tram stop, there is a controversial the Čestlice stop. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Prices vary depending preciation goes high tech. When you point the special laser memorial to the victims of communism. A group of on the day of the week and the time of day, For two hours on a conductor’s baton at music stands in this museum, excerpts Veletržní Palace (National Gallery) I-1, Praha 7, statues by Olbram Zoubek emerge into totality as they Saturday it's 300Kč for an adult and 200Kč for a child. from Smetana’s works come to life. Bedřich Smetana was a Dukelských hrdinů 47, MVltavská, tel. (+420) 224 30 walk, or are at various stages of destruction, depending Czech symphonic poet, whose masterpiece was the nation- 11 11, www.ngprague.cz. The stunning modernist Veletržní how you look at it. Why are they controversial? Other Mirror Labyrinth (Zrcadlové bludiště) A-4, Praha 1, alistic My Fatherland, which includes a musical ode to the Palace houses the National Gallery’s collection of modern and artists say they are kitschy, while feminists are angry Petřínské sady, tel. (+420) 257 31 52 12. Right next to Vltava. QOpen 10:00 - 12:00&12:30-17:00. Closed Tue. contemporary art, including works by Klimt and Frank Gehry. because all the figures are male and they (quite rightly) the Petřín Tower is a hall of mirrors - you may even get your Admission 50/20Kč. The building is so big that they split entrance fees by how claim women were persecuted under the communists kids to come in if the ice cream vendors haven't caught their many of its three floors you wish to visit. Tram N°5,12,17 to regime too. The memorial was damaged by two bomb eye first. March into the mini-castle to see how you would Stone Bell House (Dům u kammenného zvonu) Veletržní. The space also hosts concerts now. QOpen 10:00 attacks in late 2003. look if you were short and squat or tall and skinny. QOpen E-3, Praha 1, Staromětská nám. 13, MStaromětská, - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 160/80. 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 50 - 70Kč. tel. (+420) 222 32 76 77, www.citygalleryprague. Villa Müller Praha 6, Nad Hradním vodojemem 14, cz. The oldest Gothic house in Prague, hidden for years tel. (+420) 224 31 20 12, www.mullerovavila.cz. This Planetarium Praha 7, Královská obora 233, MNádraží behind a neo-Baroque facade, has been superbly restored City tours icon of modern architecture was designed by Moravian- Holešovice, tel. (+420) 220 99 90 01, www.planetarium. and now houses commendable art exhibitions run by the Best Tour Praha 7, U Uranie 17, tel. (+420) 284 born Adolf Loos for construction magnate František Mül- cz. Prague's planetarium, opened in 1960, is the largest in City Gallery of Prague. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. 81 41 41, www.besttour.cz. Their basic two-hour bus ler in 1930. The building looks like a solid white block the Czech Republic and one of the largest in the world. Its Admission 120/60Kč. tour of the city costs 350Kč/person and leaves daily at from the outside, though the interior is constructed with astronomical dome can accommodate 250 people and it 10:00, 14:00 and 16:00 from F-4, Václavské nám. 27. Q marble, mahogany and walnut, highly polished and cleanly houses three projectors in one building. Go to see shows of The Chemistry Gallery K-5, Praha 2, U Kanálky 4, 24 hours. A designed. The rooms all sit at various levels around an the stars (the astronomical kind) as well as the permanent MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 773 58 80 75, info@ ascending sweeping spiral. Tram N°1,18 to Ořechovka. exhibition. Q Admission 50 - 150Kč. thechemistry.cz, www.thechemistry.cz. A funky recon- Cityrama Prague I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 21, tel. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri. Admission verted flat is home to a cool new gallery. See art, buy art, (+420) 222 23 02 08, 602 218 469, fax (+420) 222 300/200Kč, 100Kč extra for an English guide. Tours by Seaworld Praha 7, Výstaviště, MHolešovice, tel. The Chemistry Gallery is dedicated to promoting young 23 24 29, [email protected], www.cityrama.cz. Explore appointment only. (+420) 220 10 33 05, www.morsky-svet.cz. A loop audio contemporary artists of all genres. An ambitious rotating the Golden Heart of Europe with various sightseeing tours in tape of tidal wash envelops Prague's little known aquarium, schedule of events means the work is always fresh and Prague and beyond. The City Tour (daily 09:30 and 14:00) Mořský Svět. The suspended manta ray may be huge, but creative. QOpen , Wed, Thu, Fri 13:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun joins boat tours, night explorations, excursions around the Junior Prague the tanks are small although well stocked with tropical and 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue. country and the region. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun Adventure Playground J-4, Praha 1, Vrchlického sady, fresh water fish. One tank has, we presume in honour of 08:00 - 14:00. A Opletalova, MHlavní nádraží. The area near Prague's Finding Nemo, clown fish and a tang. Deadly but beautiful Torture Museum B-2, Praha 1, Mostecká 21, tel. main railway station is slowly being reclaimed from nefarious scorpion and turkey fish languish looking like fully sailed gal- (+420) 603 88 93 61. Medieval torture instruments from Martin Tour I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 61, tel. (+420) 224 characters with designer hotels and this superb enclosed leons, and soft corals billow in the current. It's not huge, but all parts of Europe. Take the kids to show them how nice you 21 24 73, fax (+420) 224 23 97 52, www.martintour. kids' playground with activites for kids big and small. QOpen makes an interesting detour. Signs are Czech only. QOpen actually are. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 120/100Kč. cz. Their short city bus tour starts at 250Kč per person. 08:00 - 19:00. 10:00 - 19:00. 190/150Kč.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 72 WHAT TO SEE WHAT TO SEE 73

Toy Museum (Museum hraček) B-1, Praha 1, Jiřská National Memorial (Národní památník) K-3, Praha Kampa Park G-4, Kampa Island. Featuring a well-equipped Gavils. Additional highlights include the Gorilla Pavilion and 6, tel. (+420) 224 37 22 94, www.muzeumhracek. 3, Na Vrchu Žižkově. One of the largest equestrian statues children's playground, Kampa Park is caressed by water African Jungle. Definitely the place to come to if you have cz. The unfortunate thing about most toy museums is in the world dominates the hill overlooking the north eastern on all sides thanks to the millstream known as the Devil's little ones in tow - there's an excellent petting zoo and kids that children tend not to enjoy them. For the most part, the district of Žižkov. The 16.5 ton statue commemorates the Stream. The park is notable for its serenity in the midst of play area. A train ride through the zoo, a chair lift ride above experience is too frustrating because all the cool toys are Hussite hero, Jan Žižka. Behind the statue is the national the centre, and is popular with couples, the local and expat the zoo or wagon-like vehicles for the kids are available for kept just out of reach by a pane of glass. However, all is not mausoleum, built originally as a memorial to World War I hippy population, as well as families enjoying the playground. tired tootsies. Shaded, well-laid out paths make this a good lost; the second floor has switches at children's level which Czechoslovak legions, and then taken over as the resting You can also feed the ducks or visit one of the cafés. QOpen visit, even on warm days. make the displays of stuffed animals jostle about. QOpen place for the great and the not very good Communists. The 09:00 - 20:00. The zoo opened in 1931 and today spreads over 60 hectares 09:30 - 17:30. Admission 20 - 40Kč. first working class president, Klement Gottwald, was pickled and is home to nearly 5,000 animals. Concession stands in slivovice and put on display here. Unfortunately the pres- Letná, MHradčanská. Massive park high atop the Vltava shockingly don't jack up the prices, so an entire day can easily ervation was not wholly successful and the body started to and pinpointed by the often-static metronome where once be spent here. Take bus N°112 from metro station Nádraží Landmarks putrefy from the feet up, shocking the odd visiting school a massive statue of Joe Stalin stood. Biking/skating paths Holešovice or even stretch your legs further and walk across Funicular Railway A-4, party as their national hero literally started to fall apart before galore, skateboarders, playing fields, tennis courts, kids the Vltava River via the footbridge from Stromovka park. Újezd tram stop. The fu- their very eyes. His body was returned to his family in 1990 playground, beer garden and more. Fabulous outdoor spot. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. March 09:00-17:00, Apr, May, Sep, Oct nicular runs up Petřin Hill and later buried in the cemetery in Olšanské. - 09:00-18:00, Jun, Jul, Aug- 09:00-19:00, Nov, Dec, Jan, Feb - providing beautiful views of Ostrov Štvanice J-2, Praha 7. The largest island in the 09:00-16:00 Admission 150/100Kč. TA6ULBKC Prague and the castle. There Petřín Tower (Petřínská ro- Prague stretch of the Vltava is occupied by the oldest ice are two restaurants sitting at zhledna) A-4, MPetřin funicular, hockey stadium in Prague, a tennis stadium, a skate park the half-way point - there is tel. (+420) 257 32 01 12. At the and has outdoor film screenings in the summer. Walking & Bike Tours a station there. Use regular top of Petřin Hill stands a 60m-high City Walks, tel. (+420) 608 20 09 12/(+420) 222 24 20Kč tickets. Trams run at bad copy of the Eiffel Tower, affording Petřín A-3/4. With stunning views of the city and a choice 45 31, www.praguer.com. For 450Kč you can take the 15 min intervals. QOpen 09:00 - 11:20. great views of the city. The building of gardens and trails to explore, Petřín is packed with activites four hour Insider Tour of the city including Staroměstská, was completed in May 20, 1891. or lazing opportunities. Features include the tower, a mirror Nové Město, Josefov, Malá Strana and Prague Castle. The Gestapo HQ I-4, Praha 1, Politických věznů 20. This An alternative route to the castle is hall, an 18th century Ukrainian wooden church and Prague's tour also provides complimentary refreshments and a ride sombre black building is now the headquarters of the Czech to ride the funky funicular up Petřín lovers enjoying ... ah, the view. on the funicular. Tours begin daily at the statue at the top of Trade Office, but between 1939-1945 this was the most Hill and walk pass the tower across Václavské nám. at 09:45 and 13:30. feared buildings in the city. Jews and Czechs alike were to the castle area. QOpen 10:00 Troja Chateau Praha 7, U trojského zámku 1, MNádraží brought here and interrogated. In one particular incident on - 19:00. Open Sat & Sun 10:00 - Holešovice, tel. (+420) 283 85 16 14, www.citygal- Daily Walks J-3, Praha 1, Na Florenci 20, tel. (+420) Nov 24, 1939 the Gestapo executed 120 students accused 17:00. Admission 50/40/10Kč. leryprague.cz. A grand 17th century summer palace built 281 91 76 42/(+420) 603 15 70 01, www.walks.cz. of anti-Nazi plotting. Their deaths are commemorated by a for Count Václav Vojtěch Šternberg, Troja has French gardens These cool cats will walk you around town for 300 - 1,000Kč, small statue on the corner of the building. The Dancing House (Tančící dům) G-5, Praha 2, littered with Baroque sculptures right on the river below the less if you are a student, and introduce you to various aspects Rašínovo nábř. 80. Frank Gehry's design for this building Botanical gardens and next to the Zoo. It was originally situat- of Prague. The meeting point is in front of the Astronomical Klementinum D-3, Praha 1, Karlova 1, tel. (+420) 222 was inspired by the dancing team Ginger Rogers and Fred ed here to be opposite Stromovka royal game preserve (now Clock at the blue umbrella. 22 08 79, www.klementinum.com. The Klementinum Astaire. Built in 1996, this structure more than cuts a swathe Stromovka Park), which it is linked to today by a pedestrian offers a little something for everyone: Beautiful views from among the Austrian-Hungarian terrace blocks that make up bridge, but be warned it is no short walk. Admission 120/60Kč Prague Travel Praha 2, Vinohradská 28, tel. (+420) the astronomical tower; in the library most of Prague. for the gallery inside, gardens free. From the metro, hop on 222 51 60 64/(+420) 777 07 07 84, fax (+420) 222 52 hall and classical musical concerts in the Mirror Chapel. The tram 5, 17, 25 to Trojská. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. 05 73, www.praguetravel.cz. Several themed umbrella-led building dates back to 1232 and currently houses the National TV Tower K-4, Praha 3, walks starting at the Astronomical clock at various times; just Library, as well as 12 hard to find sundials. Guided tours are Mahlerovy sady 1, MJiřího Valdštejnská zahrada look for the orange umbrella. Go for a short tour of the city held daily. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 267 B-1/2, MMalostranská. centre or on the 6-hour megawalk. Prices from 200 - 1,000Kč. 00 57 78, fax (+420) 222 The Wallenstein Gardens Náměstí Míru J-5/6, 72 40 14, www.tower.cz. may have a lot of rules, but Real Tour I-5, tel. (+420) 602 45 94 81, www.walking- MNám. Míru. In Czech this This huge silver tower with the lack of human and canine toursprague.com. Englishman Paul and Czech Michal do the means Peace Square and it is funny-looking boxes attached detritus adds to their beauty. four-hour, 300Kč Real Tour of Prague starting at 12:30 at the dominated by a soaring two- to it was built between 1985 Famous for the peacocks, horse statue at the top of Václavské nám. The walk includes a tower basilica, the neo-gothic and 1992. Swift lifts whisk you the cavern-like folly (look break at a pub and ends at the castle. Pick-ups at 12:00 from Saint Ludmila Church (Kostel sv. to a fantastic panorama of the for phallic and serpentine the Traveller's Hostel on Dlouhá and the Clown and Bard. Walks Ludmily). This beautiful church city, then descend a few floors motifs) and the biggest fish we've seen in a while - ducklings on Mon, Wed, Thu & Sat only. NB, no tours from 20 - 31 Oct. was constructed from 1888 to to dine whilst contemplating often have to make a sharp exit to avoid being nibbled. An 1893 and bears the creative the intricacies of vertigo. The owlery, beautiful frescoes and benches galore for whiling away power of many renowned artists, scary black babies crawling sunny afternoons. Look for the secret entrance next to the including sculptor Josef Václav all over the tower are an art metro exit.QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. G Myslbek, who also fashioned the installation by David Černy that became permanent. And statue of St. Wenceslas. Ludmila now the tower is lit up in rather fetching hues of pink and Zoo Praha Praha 7, U Trojského zámku 3, MNádraží (860 - 921) was born in Mělník purple. Try and miss it now... QOpen 10:00 - 23:30. Admis- Holešovice, tel. (+420) 296 11 21 11, www.zoopraha. and baptised, probably by St. Methodius, in 871. After her sion 150/120Kč. cz. Zoo Praha is a really cool zoo. Following the floods of husband died their son assumed the throne and had two sons 2002 (in which there was an unfortunate loss of animal life with his pagan wife Drahomíra; Boleslav and Wenceslas, the that was broadcast round the world) many improvements latter later to become the patron saint of the Czech Republic. Parks & Gardens to infrastructure and the animal's homes have been made. Ludmila was strangled at the hand or the behest of Drahomíra Botanical Gardens (Botanická zahrada) Praha Big ones, like elephants, lions and tigers can be spotted, who resented her meddling with the budding Christian, Wenc- 7, Nádvorní 134, MNádraží Holešovice, tel. (+420) but don't miss the gorillas, penguins, kangaroos, giraffes, eslas. She is celebrated on 16 September and is patron to, 234 14 81 11, www.botgarden.cz. An outdoor section parrots, wolves and hyenas. Recent additions have included among others, converts, widows and those with problematic with vineyard, chapel, bonsai, a Japanese Zen garden, an Indonesian Jungle and the just opened (04/2008) pavilion in-laws… Náměstí Míru (green line A) is the deepest of Prague's greenhouses and wonderful views of the city. A little for a group of rare Indian crocodiles. Seven young Gavil crocs metro stations and as such has one of the longest escalators in further up the hill is the Fata Morgana greenhouse are now at home here - the only European zoo to house this Europe - 87m long with a vertical span of 43m - without walking, exhibiting desert, high sierra and tropical plants in a critically endangered specie. Zoo officials hope they'll settle it takes over 2 minutes to ascend/descend. The park hosts realistic setting. Residents include butterflies, moths, in nicely and reproduce. That's another special aspect of many festivals including the late September burčák festival and frogs and greenery galore. Bus N°112 from the metro the Zoo Praha - their conservation efforts. The facility was the Christmas market. The square has an almost starring role station. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Fata Morgana closed instrumental in preventing the extinction of Przewalski horses in the 2006 remake of cult horror classic, The Omen. Mon. Admission 120/60Kč. in the ‘60's and hopes to have similar success with the

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 74 SHOPPING BUSINESS DIRECTORY 75

Crystal, unique art and beautifully made wooden toys tacky side. The proprietor has a fun shopping sense and you excellent team whose focus and energy is always placed on their and objects are the true Prague souvenirs, but the tacky never know what you may find, be it books, jewelry or other Banks most valuable assets - the customers. An English real estate T-shirt trade is one of the most lucrative. The totally Bohemian treasures. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. A Citibank E-4, Praha 1, 28. října 11, tel. (+420) 233 06 company; their services include rentals, sales, construction, cheesy Czech Me Out T-shirts and communist slogans Arzenal D-2, Praha 1, Valentinská 11, tel. (+420) 224 32 32, www.citibank.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Wed, Fri room design and property management. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. tend to hide a few quality items, such as Mucha, Kafka 81 40 99, www.arzenal.cz. Glass from Boris Šípek, the 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. King Sturge I-3, Praha 1, V celnici 10, MNám. Republiky, and others. Competition, even on Charles Bridge, means leading Czech architect and designer. The shop is also a Thai ČSOB Československá obchodní banka F-3, Praha tel. (+420) 221 03 30 44, fax (+420) 221 03 30 55, www. prices are fairly even, but the more tourist areas tend to restaurant, Arzenal, which is strange, but somehow pleasing. 1, Na Příkopě 18, tel. (+420) 261 35 67 11, info@csob. kingsturge.com. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. have higher prices. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. A cz, www.csob.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Cristallino F-3, Praha 1, Celetná 12, tel. (+420) 224 22 Česká spořitelna F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 26, tel. 51 73, www.cristallino.cz. Prague's largest assortment of (+420) 224 42 26 86/(+420) 800 20 72 07, fax (+420) Foreign press & Websites Books Bohemia crystal, glass, porcelan and jewellery in a range of 224 23 93 28, www.csas.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00, Fri Czech Business Weekly E-3, Praha 1, Provaznická Anagram F-2, Praha 1, Týn 4, tel. (+420) 224 89 57 designs from classic patterns to modern glassware from top 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 13, tel. (+420) 234 07 13 70, fax (+420) 234 07 13 77, 37, www.anagram.cz. The owner personally selects all Czech designers. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. A GE Capital Bank Praha 4, Vyskočilova 1422/1a, tel. [email protected], www.cbw.cz. Business weekly, published the stock at this excellent bookshop, and he will order any Moser F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 12, tel. (+420) 224 21 (+420) 224 44 36 36/(+420) 800 10 30 60, www.gecb. each Monday. book you need. It also has second-hand books. QOpen 12 93, www.moser-glass.com. Moser is the oldest Czech cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. expats.cz, www.expats.cz. Prague’s largest and ever- 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Also at J-5, Praha 2, Anny glass manufacturer and it's been in operation since 1857. KB Komerční banka F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 33, tel. growing online community, an invaluable resource for finding Letenské 18. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Also at E-3, (+420) 222 43 21 11, www.kb.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. any thing, any where at any time. Especially good for finding Big Ben F-2, Praha 1, Malá Štupartská 5, tel. (+420) Praha 1, Malé nám. 2, tel. 221 61 15 20. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. a place to live, a job and people to drink with. 224 82 65 65, fax (+420) 224 82 65 59, www.bigben- Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A Raiffeisenbank I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 38, tel. (+420) 221 Fleet Sheet Praha 1, Soukenická 13, tel. (+420) 296 bookshop.com. English-language books only are sold here, Rott Regena Crystal E-3, Praha 1, Malé nám. 3, tel. 14 12 61, www.rb.cz. QOpen 08:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 58 01 60, fax (+420) 224 22 15 80, [email protected], www. with standard guides on Prague, plus several shelves of (+420) 224 22 95 29. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. A fleet.cz. A rundown of the day’s major business and political bestsellers, childrens books, fiction, non-fiction and travel stories from the Czech press. books. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. A Chambers of commerce Prague Daily Monitor, www.praguemonitor.com. A Globe H-5, Praha 1, Pštrossova 6, tel. (+420) 224 93 42 Shopping centres American Chamber of Commerce E-1, Praha 1, Dušní daily summary with links to Czech news plus links to other 03, www.globebookstore.cz. English books, second-hand Černá růže F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 12, MMůstek, tel. 10, tel. (+420) 222 32 94 30, fax (+420) 222 32 94 33, interesting cool sites. books, and magazines, internet access, café and restaurant. (+420) 221 01 41 11, www.cernaruze.cz. All the right [email protected], www.amcham.cz. QOpen 09:00 provokator.org, www.provokator.org. Cool online and QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. A shops and some fine extras in this larger-than-it-appears - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. print articles, events, listings and anarchism... Palác Knih Luxor F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 41, centre. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun British Chamber of Commerce K-3, Praha 8, Pobřežní The New Presence D-4, Národní 11, MNárodní třída, tel. (+420) 221 11 13 64, www.neoluxor.cz. Large shop 11:00 - 19:00. 3, tel. (+420) 224 83 51 61, fax (+420) 224 83 51 62, tel. (+420) 222 07 56 00, www.new-presence.cz. Czech with a good selection of foreign-language books downstairs. Nový Smíchov Praha 5, Plzeňská 8, MAnděl, tel. [email protected], www.britcham.cz. QOpen 09:00 and European political and cultural affairs. Published quarterly. The 28. Října 7 shop has a good collection of translations (+420) 257 28 41 11, [email protected]. Home - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The Prague Post I-5, Praha 1, Štěpánská 20, tel. from Czech upstairs. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - to Carrefour and more. The games arcade is fabulous and Czech - Belgian - Luxenbourg Joint Chamber of (+420) 296 33 44 00/(+420) 296 33 44 09, fax (+420) 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Also at (E-4) 28. Října 7 and (F-3) Palace Cinemas are on the top floor. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Commerce F-3, Praha 2, Anglická 20, tel. (+420) 261 296 33 44 50, [email protected], www.praguepost. Celetná 34. A Palác Flóra Praha 3, Vinohradská 151, MFlóra, tel. 35 20 90/(+420) 261 35 21 08, fax (+420) 261 35 23 cz. Longest serving weekly English language newspaper. Shakespeare & Sons Praha 10, Krymska 12, MNám. (+420) 255 74 17 00, www.palacflora.cz. New and 33, [email protected], www.cblchamber.cz. QOpen Míru, tel. (+420) 271 74 08 39, www.shakes.cz. Thou- very chic shopping centre, with over 120 shops, as well as 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. sands of handpicked new and used English titles, earnest restaurants, cafés, a cinema multiplex and an IMAX theatre. Czech - Canadian Chamber of Commerce F-3, Praha poetry and prose readings and performance, newspapers, All in the centre of Prague. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. 1, Klimentská 46, tel./fax (+420) 225 00 03 45, info@ chess and backgammon plus café. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Palladium nám. Republicky 1, Mnám. Republicky, tel. gocanada.cz, www.gocanada.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Also at Praha 1, U Luzickeho seminare 10. Tel. 257 53 18 94. (+420) 225 770 250, www.palladiumpraha.cz. Prague's Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Open 11:00 - 21:00. newest and brightest mall. What used to be an army bar- Czech - German Chamber of Commerce H-5, Praha racks is now home to a huge variety of shops. A gourmet 1, Václavské nám. 40, tel. (+420) 224 22 12 00, fax floor and lots of restaurants means you could easily lose a (+420) 224 22 22 00, [email protected], www.dtihk.cz. Department stores day amidst the 5 floors of climate-controlled amusement. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Debenhams F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, tel. QOpen 7:00 - 22:00. Economic Chamber of the Czech Republic K-4, (+420) 221 01 50 57, www.debenhams.cz. The English Slovanský Dům F-3, Praha 1, Na Příkopě 22, MNám. Praha 9, Freyova 27, tel. (+420) 296 64 61 11, fax department store has made its mark. QOpen 09:00 - Republiky, tel. (+420) 221 45 14 00, www.slovansky- (+420) 296 64 62 21, [email protected], www.komora. 20:00. A dum.cz. High end retail shops, a multiplex cinema and Kogo cz. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kotva F-2, Praha 1, nám. Republiky 8, tel. (+420) 224 restaurant attract the right people at this central shopping 80 11 11, www.od-kotva.cz. A variety of well-priced shops centre. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. and services, and a special area for children, all in the ugliest Real estate building in central Prague. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - AAA BYTY.CZ akciová společnost Václavské náměstí 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. AL Speciality shops 62, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 226 060 606/(+420) 774 Marks & Spencer Václavské nám. 36, MMuzeum, de.facto E-4, Praha 1, Perlová 6, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 333 010, [email protected], www.aaabyty.cz. AAABYTY.cz. tel. (+420) 224 237 503, marksandspencer.com. One 224 23 38 15, www.defakto.cz. Beautifully designed is a full service real estate company and can assist you with of the UK's most well-known stores. It's all here: the clothes; objets, furniture, gifts, kitchenware, soft furnishings and buying, renting or selling a flat, house, office and even land. the food; the housewares. QOpen 9:30 - 20:30, Sat, Sun oddities at this excellent shop which has a tinge of the Ikea They are experts with many additional resources in-house, 10:00 - 20:00. A style and more but without the schlep out to Zličin. QOpen like help with securing financing and legal and tax assistance. Tesco D-4, Praha 1, Národní 26, MNárodní třída, tel. 09:00 - 20:00. Plus, they have offices across the country so you will find them (+420) 222 00 31 11, www.tesco-shop.cz. Britain's best Naoko I-3, Praha 1, Revoluční 24, MNám. Republiky, especially helpful if you're not looking in Prague. store with a supermarket in the basement. Delivery service is tel. (+420) 222 31 25 67, www.naoko.cz. Excellent Atrium Real Estate I-6, Praha 2, Lípová 10, MKarlovo also available, check the website for details. QOpen 08:00 selection of design products that you may not really need, nám., tel. (+420) 800 28 74 86/(+420) 777 00 55 66, info@ - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Supermarket but which look fantastic. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 atriumrealestate.cz, www.atriumrealestate.cz. Residential open 07:00 - 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. A - 15:00. Closed Sun. property, re-sale, new homes, rental and property management. Qubus F-2, Praha 1, Rámová 3, MNám. Republiky, tel. With a team of 15 multi-lingual employees. Weekend viewing by (+420) 222 31 31 51, www.qubus.cz. Fabulous design appointment. QOpen 08:30 - 19:00, Fri 08:00 - 18:00. Glass shop off Dlouhá selling hip goods from bizarre clocks to European Reality E-4, Praha 8, Zirkon Office Centre, Artěl Praha 1, Celetná 29, MStaroměstské nám., tel. ceramic Wellington boots as vases. They are also the Czech Sokolovska, tel. (+420) 234 32 33 33, fax (+420) 222 50 (+420) 271 73 21 61, www.artelglass.com. A welcome distributor of funky-ass Lomo cameras. QOpen 10:00 - 78 91, www.europeanreality.com. European Reality is one addition to Prague's glass scene, which can be a bit on the 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. of the largest residential agencies in the Czech Republic with an

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 76 LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY 77

Nam Jai Thai Massage D-2, Kaprova 11, tel. (+420) Zen Studio Praha 1, Široká 11, MStaroměstská, tel. Massage 222 32 87 47, www.namjai.cz. Here you’ll get an authentic, (+420) 222 31 72 22, [email protected], www. 24-hour pharmacies Ilandra K-6, Praha 2, Francouská 31, MNáměstí Míru, stretching, vertebrae popping session of traditional Wat Pho zenstudio.cz. Calm and tranquillity is the name of the game Lékárna U Svaté Ludmily J-6, Praha 2, Belgická 37, tel. (+420) 773 58 28 12, [email protected], www. massage. Back & Head, Foot and oil massages are also avail- here. Zen Studio offers Thai massage, aromatic oil massage, tel. (+420) 222 51 33 96. ilandra.com. Ilandra promises their hands will restore your able. One hour Thai massage 700Kč. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. herbal massage, plus they have a Jacuzzi and sauna. Their Lékárna Modřany Praha 4, Soukalova 3355, tel. life energy. At least you’ll be relaxed. Therapeutic, sport, Sabai Na Příkope 22, tel. (+420) 221 45 11 80, www.sabai. certified therapists will reduce tension while relaxing your (+420) 244 40 22 70. reflex, tantric, Chinese and Indian massages are all on offer. cz. By far the smartest and most expensive of the Thai massage body. Take a moment for Zen now. QOpen Noon - 22:00, Lékárna Palackého H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 5, tel. They also offer home and office visits. Q 60 minutes - 1500 options here, but is it worth it? Well, yes it is. Quiet and private Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (+420) 224 94 69 82. CZK/90 minutes - 2000 CZK/Therapeutic, sports and reflex - even the foot massage rooms are individual. Excellent staff, Lékárna U Anděla Praha 5, Štefánikova 6, tel. (+420) types of massage: 40 minutes - 750 CZK. English spoken and relaxed ambience. Traditional Thai 990Kč for 257 32 46 86. Lázně Libverda Hejnice, tel. (+420) 482 36 81 00, fax one hour. Reservations recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Spas (+420) 482 36 81 10, [email protected], www.lazne- Sawasdee Foot Massage Rytiřská 19, tel. (+420) Anenské slatinné lázně Lázně Bělohrad, Spa 165, libverda.cz. Escape Prague for a weekend of pampering at Lázně 224 22 61 05. From the tinkling fountain to the comfy tel. 493 76 71 11, fax 493 76 74 43, lazne@be- Dentists Libverda in Hejnice, near Liberec. Outdoor activities abound in chairs and the characteristic menthol smell, this place looks lohrad.cz, www.belohrad.cz. A kind and professional American Dental Associates I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 4, the nearby Jizera Mountains; and wellness and relaxation of all authentic but unfortunately the foot massage is not. Pain approach offers guests for both therapeutic or wellness tel. (+420) 221 18 11 21, fax (+420) 221 18 11 20, www. types can be found at the spa. Treatments include carbo-mineral and Porn are just two of the masseuses who might work on stays a pleasant atmosphere and excellent service. The americandental.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A baths, underwater massage, acupuncture and a variety of elec- you, but ours was Thai Massage Lite. We kept waiting for it spa focuses on the treatment of rheumatism, arthritis Dental Emergencies H-4, Praha 1, Palackého 5, tel. trotherapy procedures. There a variety of hotels and pensions to kick in to no avail. 600Kč for a lacklustre Thai massage. and back pain. Active visitors can play tennis or rent (+420) 224 94 69 81. Q Open 24hrs. in the area and you can get to the town via Liberec. Relaxing, yes, but not therapeutic. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. mountain bikes. Esthesia Opletalova 1013/59, MNáměstí republiky, Miracle Spa Janáčkovo nábř. 7, MAnděl, tel. (+420) Tantra Masáže Praha 3, Ondříčkova 32, tel. (+420) Aquaforum Františkovy Lázně Františkovy Lázně, tel. (+420) 284 68 05 30/(+420) 775 02 56 44, www. 257 31 73 26, www.miraclespa.cz. With their menu of 603 18 50 66, [email protected], www.tan- Ulice 5. května 19, tel. 354 20 65 00, info@aquaforum. esthesia.cz. Dentistry of the highest order (cosmetic, pre- wellness, hair and face treatments a miracle very likely could tramasaze.com. Experience a completely different kind info, www.aquaforum.info. For those who thought they ventive, orthodontics & implantology) using state of the art be performed. If nothing else, you’ll feel amazing when it is all of massage. Tantra massage is a combination of ancient should have been born with fins instead of feet. Here they’ve equipment combined with individual, after hours, professional over. Miracle Spa offers body wraps and peels; a variety of tantra-tao techniques and classic massage. Reservations got four indoor and three outdoor swimming pools, designed and above all, pain-free care for a healthy happy smile. Take anti-aging face treatments; and of course the all important required. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. €150 - 230. in a Roman bath setting. the metro to Náměstí republiky (Line B). QOpen 08:00 - relaxing baths, massage and thalassotherapy. Ahh, it’s a Tantra Spa Praha 10, 28.pluku 18, tel. (+420) 777 85 Lázně Hodonín Hodonín, Měšťanská 140, tel. 518 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PTA miracle! QOpen 8:30 - 20:30, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 88 64, [email protected], www.tantraspa.cz. A unique 39 55 11, [email protected], www.laznehodonin. EsthetX Dental Clinic I-4, Praha 1, Václavské Náměstí Mystic Buddha F-2, Dlouhá 39, tel. (+420) 221 77 95 experience for those looking to relax and perhaps expand cz. Lázně Hodnín is known for its iodine infused water, ex- 38, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 776 77 22 44, [email protected], 10, www.mysticbuddha.cz. Emphasis is on balance and their sexual energy. A tantra massage is one that combines a cellent for treating cardiovascular and muscular problems. www.esthetx.cz. Smile pretty. Or get yours fixed up. Complete harmony. Individual rooms provide extra privacy and English classic massage with elements of the tantra. The masseur’s The modern buildings and ideal surroundings make it a range of dental services including preventative care and im- speakers make life easier for any instructions. In addition to attentive and respectful touch invites you to relax, helps to great choice. plants. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Fri 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Thai massage, they offer classic massage, cosmetic treat- increase the body’s sensitivity and enhances life energy and Lázně Libverda 463 62 Hejnice, tel. 482 36 81 11, fax European Dental Center I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. ments, a hair0509.ai salon, 1manicures4.5.2009 1 4:40:and1 5pedicures. Try the hot joy. Bookings are by appointment only. QOpen 9:00 - 22:00. 482 36 81 10, [email protected], www.lazne- 33, tel. (+420) 224 22 89 84, www.edcdental.cz. A stones. One hour Thai massage is 950Kč. QOpen 10:00 Tawan - Thai massages Náměstí Curieových 100, libverda.cz. Lázně Libverda in the Jizera Mountains focuses high-quality, modern dental centre providing both general and - 22:00. Winter hours: 9:00-21:00 tel. (+420) 234 614 163/(+420) 721 731 401, hotel- on treating heart and blood circulation diseases. Their local cosmetic dentistry, with a friendly atmosphere and relatively [email protected], www.tawan.cz. Tawan has a variety mineral springs were discovered in the 14th century and painless treatment. Implants, prosthetic work, crowns, bridg- of treatments including a classic Thai massage, an aroma oil there are a variety of sporting and relaxing options on hand. es, inlays, orthodontics, periodontics and mouth surgery, and TAWAN Hotel President massage and a detox massage, plus body treatments like peel- Lázně Malvazinky Praha Praha 5, U Malvazinky 5, root canal treatment are all available, with support from digital Nám. Curieových 100 ings and wraps. Their most popular therapies use hot herbal MAnděl, tel. 251 11 66 02, info.mediterra@malvazinky. x-ray. Plus the smile you want with the Brite-Smile system. Praha 1, tel. +420 234 614 163 Q A TAWAN Holiday Inn packs. Some of their specials are interesting too, like the one- cz, www.malvazinky.cz. Here you’ll find a variety of help Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Na Pankráci 15, Praha 4 and-a-half hour foot and hand massage, or the Coconut Dream in the area of sports medicine and physical therapy. Lázně tel. +420 296 895 050 featuring an aroma massage using coconut oil. They offer gift Malvazinky Praha specializes in postoperative rehabilitation TAWAN Oskar certificates so you can give the gift of calm. Tawan is located and muscular-skeletal problems. Hospitals Salvátorská 10, Praha 1 in the Hotel President and they have two other locations; one LS Royal Mariánské Lázně Mariánské Lázně, Lesní Nemocnice Motol Praha 5, V úvalu 84, tel. (+420) tel. +420 224 815 730 inside the Holiday Inn Prague Congress Center and another 345, tel. 354 62 54 46, fax 354 62 23 46, info@royal- 224 43 11 11/(+420) 224 43 36 81, www.fnmotol.cz. in Prague 1 at Salvátorská 10. QOpen, Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, marienbad.cz, www.royalmarienbad.cz. Mariánské Lázně The operators of its emergency number speak English. Bus Fri 7:30 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 9:00 - 21:00. 450-2190kč. JA is sometimes overlooked in favour of Karlovy Vary, but you N°167 and 174. Q A Thai Fit Na Poříčí 21, tel. (+420) 224 81 18 76, www. should put it in your spa plan and stay at the LS Royal. A variety Nemocnice na Františku I-2, Praha 1, Na Františku thaifit.cz. The aroma of the adjacent Siam Orchid restaurant of relaxation stays support their therapeutic programmes 847, tel. (+420) 224 81 05 02/(+420) 224 81 02 80. adds to the ambience of this great place and inspires what which include assistance with respiratory and metabolic English is spoken. to do post massage. Eat. Anyway, the masseuse here was disorders. Pampering is a guarantee at this four-star hotel. strong and achieved an incredible amount of vertebrae pop- Richmond Park Hotel Karlovy Vary, Slovenská 3, tel. ping, exactly what the neck was in need of. Calm, quiet and 353 17 71 11, fax 353 22 21 69, reservation@richmond. Medical centres recommended. 600Kč for one hour traditional Thai. QOpen cz, www.richmond.cz. We get all chilled-out just thinking Asklepion J-6, Praha 2, Londýnská 39, tel. (+420) 234 9:00 - 21:00. about the Richmond Hotel. This stunning property is located 71 61 11/(+420) 602 48 33 22, fax (+420) 234 71 65 Enter Thai Orchidea F-4, Praha 1, Jindřišská 5, MMůstek, on the outskirts of Karlovy Vary for a more peaceful stay. They 20, [email protected], www.asklepion.cz. Super trendy the world of tel. (+420) 222 22 22 31, [email protected], www. offer a variety of relaxation programmes, including anti-ageing clinic offering plastic surgery, laser treatments, dentistry Thai massages... thai-orchidea.cz. Tired back or legs? Revive them at Thai treatments, beauty weeks and relaxing days. and even eye lash perms. Labs and operating theatres on Orchidea. The pros here will focus on your sore points; or for site. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. an all-out body work over choose their traditional Thai mas- Canadian Medical Care Praha GynCentrum Praha 9, Hloubětínská 13, tel. (+420) sage, or special oil Thai massage.Q You’ll leave stress-free and 6, Veleslavínská 1, tel. 235 36 01 225 00 08 88, [email protected], www. ready to take on the city. Open 10:00 - 21:00. Traditional 33/724 30 03 01, fax 235 36 46 gyncentrum.cz. A quiet and welcoming clinic for a variety Thai massage: 1 hour, 600kč. 40, [email protected], www.cmcpraha.cz. General of cosmetic surgery procedures, GynCentrum offers breast Thai World Celená 6, tel. (+420) 224 81 72 47, www. practitioners, pediatrics, gynecology, dentists and more enhancements, facelifts and liposuction along with treating thaiworld.cz. This used to be the place to go but it seems they can be found at Canadian Medical Care. Modern facilities gynecological ailments. Their personal and professional are resting on their laurels a tad. The masseuse spent more plus excellent staff make this a top of choice of many in approach will be welcome, no matter your reason for a visit. time massaging with one hand in order to hold open the curtain International Medical Services Praha 7, Jankovcova Prague. Also hasQ a location in Praha 4, V Parku 2308/8, to see what/who was going on outside. She did notice pain in 272 91 35 93. Open, Mon, Wed, Fri 08:00 - 18:00, Tue, 16, tel. (+420) 266 77 37Q 11/(+420) 737 28 93 61, www.tawan.cz the shoulder which she applied Tiger Balm to. Good, not great. Thu 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. A www.medicalgroup.cz. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Closed 599Kč for one hour traditional Thai. QOpen 9:00 - 22:00. Sat, Sun. A

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 78 LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY LIFESTYLE DIRECTORY 79

Medicover I-6, Praha 2, Tylovo nám. 3/15, tel. (+420) 234 63 01 11, www.medicover.cz. Comprehensive Climbing Paintball medical care, 24-hour house calls, dental and surgery as- Climbing Center Ruzyně Praha 6, Drnovská 19, Paintball Club Troja Praha 4, Krejnická 2021, tel. sistance. English, French, German, Spanish, Russian & Czech tel. (+420) 235 31 90 96, stena@stena-ruzyne. (+420) 272 91 11 09, [email protected], www. speaking staff. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. com, www.stena-ruzyne.com. With an excellent paintballgame.cz. Rent or buy the stuff with which you can Closed Sun. A English website, this place has a 12 metre high climb- drag your mates out into the woods and shoot them. 3 games’ Poliklinika na Národní D-4, Praha 1, Národní 9 (3rd ing wall with 92 regularly changed routes for both the areas available. Call in advance. QOpen 09:30 - 18:00. floor), tel. (+420) 222 07 51 20/(+420) 606 46 16 28, novice and expert (a.k.a. the spider). The bouldering Closed Sat, Sun. A fax (+420) 224 21 50 59, www.poliklinika.narodni.cz. wall costs 40Kč, the climbing wall is 80Kč and you Prague Indoor Paintball Praha 9, Freyova 27, Emergency tel. 606 89 38 35. Q A can rent gear from them and take climbing courses. MVysočanská, tel. (+420) 777 33 49 39, www.prague- Polyclinic D-4, Praha 1, Národní 9, MNárodní třída, Bus Nºs 108, 218, 225. QOpen 15:00 - 21:45, Wed indoor-paintball.com. Grab your macho Spyder Pilot ACS gun, tel. (+420) 222 075 120, [email protected], www. 10:00 - 15:45, Thu 18:00 - 21:45, Sat 16:00 - 21:45, protective clothing, bullets, I mean paintballs and shoot your poliklinika.narodni.cz. 25 physicians, all fluent in English Sun 13:00 - 20:00. friends at this indoor venue with 10 games tailored to novices (also some German, Russian and French spoken). Preventa- Lokalblok Praha 5, nám. 14. října 10, MAnděl, tel. and James Bonds among us. 250Kč per hour, plus bar, pool, tive care and travel vaccinations, US visa medical, dental, (+420) 777 24 24 76, www.lokalblok.cz. A colourful and table tennis, kick boxing and gaming. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. physio, home visits and 24hr emergency coverage. QOpen very popular climbing bar. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. 24hr emergency, tel. 777 94 12:00 - 22:00. P 22 70. Lab opens at 08:00. A Namche Praha 8, Heydukova 6, tel. (+420) 266 Camera services Unicare Praha 6, Na Dlouhém lánu 11, tel. (+420) 31 29 45/(+420) 603 84 34 04, www.namche.cz. Centrum FotoŠkoda I-4, Praha 1, Vodičkova 37, tel. 235 35 65 53/(+420) 608 10 30 60, fax (+420) 235 Wouldn’t a ladder be easier? Buy colourful rope, rubber (+420) 222 92 90 29/(+420) 602 19 24 71, fax (+420) 35 52 02, www.unicare.cz. 24-hour call service. Take slippers and small metal clips and then find out what to 222 92 90 16, [email protected], www.fotoskoda.cz. tram N°2, 20, & 26 or bus N°116, 131 & 132. QOpen do with them. QOpen 09:00 - 21:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Fitness centres QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Sat 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. 08:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. Also at Closed Sun. A Cybex Praha 8, Pobřežní 1 (Hotel Hilton), tel. (+420) Průhonice, Kosatcová 420, tel. 267 75 04 27. Open: Ultra Ant E-2, Praha 1, Týnská 17, MNám. Republiky, 224 84 27 13, fax (+420) 224 84 23 72, info@cybexprg. Mon, Fri 09:00 - 15:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 20:00, Wed tel. (+420) 224 82 60 39. Small but central and friendly. cz, www.ecybex.cz. Delightful, top-quality surroundings and Hairdressing 09:00 - 18:00. A English spoken, 1 hour lesson for 150Kč all inclusive. 7 metre equipment for you to exert yourself in/on/with. We suppose if Bomton I-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 43, tel. (+420) wall for 40Kč, gear rental available plus bouldering. QOpen you’re going to suffer, you may as well do it in style. QOpen 224 23 16 89/(+420) 224 23 16 90, www.bomton. 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 22:00. cz. Chain of upmarket salons to give you a pat on the head. Billiards Delroy’s Gym Praha 5, Zborovská 4, tel. (+420) 257 QOpen 08:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 13:00 - 19:00. Billard Centrum F-4, Praha 1, V Cípu 1, tel. (+420) 32 70 42, [email protected], www.delroys-gym.cz. Also at H-5, Praha 1, Myslíkova 31, tel. 224 93 44 27, open 720 15 20 44, www.billiardcentrum.cz. A huge old Extreme sports Karate, tae kwan do, kickboxing and all sorts of other ways 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. building hidden down an alley in the centre - the well worn Aeroklub Praha Praha 9, Hůlkova 16, tel./fax (+420) to exercise your aggression. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sat, James Hair E-2, Praha 1, Malá Štupartská 9, tel. (+420) grandure is explained in part by the fact that this used to 286 85 20 40, tel. (+420) 286 85 24 15, www.aklet- Sun 09:00 - 20:00. 224 82 73 73/(+420) 602 17 10 16, james@jameshair. house prancing horses and now houses those looking to nany.cz. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Holmes Place Prague 5, Plzeňská 8, MAnděl, tel. cz, www.jameshair.cz. Upmarket bi-lingual hairdressers bowl, play pool, snooker or billiards, table tennis, darts, Aviatic Centrum Praha Praha 4, Pujmanové (+420) 257 313 830. Deluxe health club inside the Nový responsible for the president’s wife’s hairdo. QOpen 08:00 surf the net, or just get blind drunk for cheap. QOpen 27/881, tel. (+420) 272 68 03 63/(+420) 602 32 Smíchov mall. - 20:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. 11:00 - 01:00. Also at Praha 5, Stroupežnického 1, tel. 36 08, fax (+420) 272 68 03 65, [email protected]. Sportcentrum YMCA I-3, Praha 1, Na Poříčí 12, tel. Joshua K-6, Praha 10, Slovenská 2, tel. (+420) 222 52 257 31 06 57. Should your life be too much for you, come here and learn (+420) 224 87 58 11, fax (+420) 224 87 58 18, info@ 01 26/(+420) 604 81 46 73, fax (+420) 222 51 46 53, Billiard Club Harlequin J-5, Praha 2, Vinohradská to paraglide, which is a sport akin to jumping out of the scymca.cz, www.scymca.cz. Sweat away the kilos in the [email protected], www.joshua.cz. Take a walk on the wilder 25, tel. (+420) 224 21 72 40, www.harlequin.zde.cz. window and waving a crisp packet in the air. You can also fitness centre or sauna then cool down by taking a dip in the side of the coiffure industry. We don’t advise visiting on a whim QOpen 14:00 - 04:00. jump out of an aeroplane and plummet 3,000 - 4,000 swimming pool or by getting a massage. QOpen 06:30 - or when inebriated. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Café Louvre D-4, Praha 1, Národní třída 22, tel. (+420) metres in six minutes, which at 4,460Kč works out at 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Kadeřnictví Zákostelecká Praha 2, Slavojova 12, tel. 224 93 09 49, [email protected], www.cafelou- 1.48Kč - 1.11Kč per metre. Bargain. World Class Fitness Center Praha 1, Václavské nám. (+420) 224 93 74 49, www.volny.cz/kadernice. Price vre.cz. QOpen 08:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:30. Bobsleigh Praha 9, Prosecká 906/34b, MPalmovka, 22, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 234 69 91 00, www.world- starts at 100Kč. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. tel. (+420) 284 84 05 20, fax (+420) 284 84 05 21, classfitness.net. Definitely world class. Superb. QOpen Salon Gaudí F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 36 (3rd www.bobovadraha.cz. Not too extreme but thrilling none- 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. Floor), MMůstek, tel. (+420) 224 24 71 98/(+420) 604 Bowling theless. Reach speeds of up to 50km/hr on a large tea tray on World Class Health Academy I-3, Praha1, V Celnici 26 52 63, www.gaudistudio.cz. The one stop conglomer- Beer and Bowling Diner Praha 4, Kongresová 1 wheels with a brake, which you might want to use. A fantastic 10 (Millennium Plaza), MNám. Republiky, tel. (+420) ate that is OASIS City now offers styling and more from Salon (Corinthia Towers Hotel), tel. (+420) 261 19 11 51, view of Prague, restaurant, lift back to the top and adrenaline 221 03 30 33, www.worldclassfitness.net. Another world Gaudí, who also operate in Moscow, London, Paris and Ge- fax (+420) 261 22 50 11, [email protected], www. boosting 800m runs make a fantastic day out. 60Kč a run class facility. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 21:00. neva. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00; Sundays by appointment only. corinthia.cz. Ten-pin chaos on top of the city. QOpen or 280Kč for 6 runs. Take bus Nº 140, 187 & 233 two stops Toni & Guy Praha 1, Dlouhá 13, tel. (+420) 222 32 00 14:00 - 24:00. A (to Kelerka) from Palmovka. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Sat & 56/(+420) 222 32 00 57, fax (+420) 222 32 33 59, Bowling Centrum RAN I-3, Praha 1, V Celnici 10, tel. Sun 10:00 - 22:00. K Karting [email protected], www.toniandguy.cz. Cut and blow (+420) 221 03 30 20/(+420) 739 02 65 58, www. F-air, tel. (+420) 317 79 38 20/(+420) 606 62 36 10, Kart Areal Praha 9, Chlumecká 8 (Černý Most mall), dry will set you back 800 - 1150Kč depending on who on their bowlingran.cz. Twinkle your toes right under the noses of www.f-air.cz. Flying and jumping out of planes. MČerný Most, tel. (+420) 281 91 61 88, www.kartar- power ladder is doing the snipping. For the budget conscious, the posh-nobs upstairs in the Marriott. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. K. I. Bungee Jump, tel. (+420) 608 768 168/(+420) eal.cz. Zoom around a specially designed 500m indoor track student cuts are 200Kč and colour is 450Kč. QOpen 08:00 Kingpin G-2, Praha 6, Milady Horákové 109, tel. (+420) 777 250 126, www.bungee.cz. For 700 - 800Kč these nice in a car park from 200Kč for 10 mins. QOpen 14:00 - 22:00, - 20:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 224 39 62 64. Every kind of wasting facility - bowling, folks will march you to a bridge and let you jump off. Fri 14:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. K Tribo I-3, Praha 1, Klimentská 2, tel. (+420) 224 81 48 darts, pool, booze. QOpen 14:00 - 02:00. Parašutistická škola Impact Praha 4, Dolni 12, Kart Centrum Praha 5, Výpadová 1335, tel. (+420) 00/(+420) 603 46 64 66, [email protected], www.tribo.cz. tel. (+420) 261 22 54 31/(+420) 602 95 80 94, 602 61 24 92/(+420) 602 75 74 75, info@kart-centrum. Hair studio, tattoos and piercing. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. [email protected], http://skydive.mujweb.cz/. cz, www.kart-centrum.cz. Book the whole track and res- Closed Sun. Quite possibly the most insensitively monikered business taurant at a rate similar to Formula 1 prices; 1 hour 12,000 Emergency Numbers known to man. 3,100Kč for the usual aerial insanity involv- - 24,000Kč. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. ing aeroplanes, rushes of blood to the head and bodies Kart Klub Letňany Praha 9, Toužimská 55, tel. (+420) Lost credit cards Ambulance, tel. (+420) 155. to the ground. 777 311 856, fax (+420) 234 312 066, [email protected], American Express Praha 1,Václavské nám. 56, tel. City Police, tel. (+420) 156. Tandem Centrum Praha Praha 6, Na Pěkné vyhlídce 4, www.motokary.com. Indoor go-kart arena near to center (+420) 222 21 10 89, fax (+420) 234 71 17 12, http:// Fire, tel. (+420) 150. tel. (+420) 233 34 34 43/(+420) 603 45 62 27, www. of Prague with 10 Honda GX200 karts, 512 m long track www.axrep.cz/. QOpen closed. International Emergency, tel. (+420) 112. padaky.cz. For 3,500Kč this lot will take you up in a plane with specialy created asphalt concrete surface, computer- Diners Club, tel. (+420) 267 19 74 50. Police, tel. (+420) 158. and push you out whilst tied to another maniac. For an extra ized scoring system, bar - restaurant with up to 150 seats, Eurocard/Mastercard & Visa, tel. (+420) 224 24 1,000Kč they will video your terror. disco stage. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. 50 41.

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT 81

Prague is as famous for its sex clubs as it is for its beer. K5 Relax Club J-5, Praha 2, Stag nights take advantage of the price and availability of M both, and on the whole these clubs are well organised and Korunní 5, Nám. Míru, tel. clean. Safe sex is practiced, and bouncers and/or manag- 224 25 05 05, www.k5relax. ers will explain the rules and methods of each place on ar- cz. The best club in Prague, and rival. It is cheaper to partake over here, but that does not considered by experts as one of mean you won’t pay for the privilege of watching a live sex the top sex clubs anywhere in or lesbian show. Generally, you’ll have to pay an entrance Central Europe. From friendly doormen to the hands-on fee (around 500Kč) to sit at the bar; this fee is waived if management who will answer all of your questions in as you are there to pay for other services immediately. Many many languages as you can imagine, to the lovely girls of the central clubs pay men and women to entice you who will look after your every wish, this place has it all. A off the street and into their nearby establishments, but if computerised payment system ensures that you will not be ripped off. We cannot recommend K5 more. QOpen you’re heading somewhere by taxi, make sure you’re taken A to the one you want to go to rather than the one the taxi 16:00 - 04:00. driver gets commission from. Check prices of services and drinks, and enjoy… complete with faux Louis XIV furniture, but you lads aren’t here Big Sister Praha 5, Nádražní 46, tel. (+420) 257 31 for the décor, now are you? QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. AP 00 43/(+420) 257 31 00 44, [email protected], www.bigsister.net. Forget about big brother watching you, Club 161 K-2, Praha 8, Sokolovská 161, MKřižíkova, this is voyeurism Big Sister style. Prague’s first online brothel tel. (+420) 284 81 02 62, [email protected], www. has 40 girls, 58 cameras and you being beamed live onto the club161.cz. A small residential house hosts from two (in the day) internet via 17 videostreams. Pay a 500 CZK entrance, sign to 12 lovely girls for your pleasure. Downstairs is a bar and pole for away your anonymity (masks are not allowed) and the girls strip and lesbian shows, while upstairs you can take your pick of are free. Add the theme rooms, pool, sauna, and showbar with four rooms and/or a Jacuzzi. An S&M room has toys, PVC every- lap dancers, Big Sister is one unique experience. Visit on a thing and whips if that’s your bag, baby. Free entrance and decent Saturday or Sunday to take advantage of their special parties. bar prices. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 06:00. AL Must be reserved in advance; check their frequently updated website for the latest action. QOpen 18:00 - 04:00. A Club 600 Praha 3, Koněvova 66, tel. (+420) 222 58 61 28, www.c600.cz. Cosy club offering all the fun of the Carioca E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 1, MMůstek, fair from three in the afternoon to the very early hours of tel. (+420) 296 32 53 14. A large open room with a central the morning. Always a good number of Czech girls on hand stage hosts girls galore doing the can-can and go-go, plus strip to provide you with whatever assistance and relaxation you and lesbian shows. The place resembles a wedding reception may need. QOpen 19:00 - 05:00.

prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 82 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT

Darling Cabaret I-5, Praha 1, Ve Smečkách 32a, MMuzeum, www.kabaret.cz. One of the biggest and most popular of the adult clubs in town but it’s not cheap as it caters for the comparatively rich tourists. Head over to Václavské nám. and just try to miss it... you’ve probably seen and been photographed next to their limo too. Watch cabaret, lesbian shows, Thai Fire shows and table dancing courtesy of 150-200 girls a night. QOpen 12:00 - 05:00, Tue 20:00 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00.

Desire Cabaret I-5, Praha 1, V Jámě 8, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 296 338 539, [email protected], www. desire-cabaret.cz. Centrally located night club with all the usual attractions, including erotic dancers, striptease, lesbian shows and full service massage. Popular with visitors, pay them a visit and you will discover why.

Escade I-7, Praha 4, Křesomyslova 5, tel. (+420) 241 40 98 88, www.escade.cz. Tucked down in Nusle is Escade, home to thirty girls every night for your viewing (and more) pleasure. Get comfortable in the sofa-laden bar before taking your pick of one of their spacious rooms, sauna or whirlpool. The usual strip and erotic shows are crowd pleasers, and Escade also offers soft S&M, services for couple, special private arrangements and an escort service. Just in case you go overboard, there’s an ATM. Q Open 24 hrs. PA

Exclusive Club Praha 10, Šrobárova 6, MFlora, tel. (+420) 776 88 55 22, [email protected], www. exclusive-club.cz. Strip clubs are a dime a dozen in Prague, but Exclusive Club has raised the bar. Newly open; they take reservations, have a VIP room, free entry and everyone gets a welcome drink. Lovely ladies and an events calendar; Exclusive Club is worth the slightly out of centre trip. QOpen Noon - 5am.

Extasy Cabaret Praha 3, Chlumova 13, tel. (+420) 222 78 00 48/(+420) 777 206 006, www.extasy.cz. Extasy offers a courtesy car from anywhere in Prague and a free welcome drink for punters. This is a well-known place for quality girls and imaginative shows, for example, Cheryl and her drill - use that imagination… yup, that’s right. Anyway, it’s all air conditioned, they have a bar with dance, erotic and lesbian shows, massage, plus various rooms and even a waterbed. Extasy also hosts film and photo shoots. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 20:00 - 06:00. A

Follow Me Praha 7, Na Šachtě 5, tel. (+420) 608 84 41 43, www.followme.cz. Follow me to a place where you can get away from it all and enjoy the delights of erotic girls there just to please you. And believe us, they will. Drinks, free transport, low prices but above all, hot chicks. Near the Výstaviště grounds in Holešovice. QOpen 12:00 - 06:00.

Goldfinger’s E-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 4, MMůstek, tel. (+420) 222 19 38 56. No sex please, we’re British. This is not the call of either James Bond or the stag-partier, but that is the ethic at Goldfinger’s, the classiest strip joint in town. It’s not cheap but then again, the girls aren’t either. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. PA

Hot Pepper’s F-4, Praha 1, Václavské nám. 21, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 724 13 40 11, www.hotpeppers. cz. Hot Pepper’s - Gate to Hell is an original, exclusive club. Next door to the disco Duplex, it’s the ideal combination of cabaret dancers and champagne consumption; all with a professional presentation. The V.I.P. Champagne Lounge, with its choice of many exquisite brands of bubbly, can’t be found anywhere else. The all-night programme includes exotic and cancan dancers; a lesbian show, stag show and even private rooms. Benefits include free entry, every second

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com

PRAGUE_TITULKAs1.indd 5 25.8.2009 15:21:35 84 ADULT ENTERTAINMENT

beer free, discount vouchers for 5 and 10 beers, and many more attractive offers. Plus, the party can go on as long as Unique books from you wish - there’s no closing time at Hot Pepper’s. Excepts all credit cards, including American Express. QOpen 20:30 - 05:00. PJA

Laura Club Praha 3, Jeseniova 166, tel. (+420) 271 77 46 90, www.lauraclub.cz. Great little club in Žižkov where you can enjoy lovely Czech girls strip for you three nights a week before escorting one to a private room to help you drink your sparkling wine. When there is no strip action there are still always plenty of girls ready to entertain you in as many ways Q A as you can imagine. Open 12:00 - 05:00.

Lotos Club Praha 4, Kupeckého 832, MHáje, tel. (and 21 other prizes) Prague’s only cabaret (+420) 272 91 68 25, www.lotos.cz. Newly renovated and still specialising in the discreet luxury niche. Lotos is modelled at hotel Ambassador on a gentleman’s club although with the added bonus of young girls, pool and S&M room for starters. Choose from over 20 quality girls a night. Free entrance voucher on the website. Luxurious cabaret Q Open 24hrs. A in the centre The of Prague Neon Club Balbinová 21, MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 originall 25 01 05/(+420) 733 12 10 22, www.neonclub.cz. The Neon Club offers three exotic floors of strippers, lap dancers Complete our latest readership survey at inyourpocket.com/survey and escort services. The first floor will amuse with its selec- tion of sex toys; while the second has a reasonably priced and we’ll enter you in our prize draw: the winner gets something cocktail bar and dancing girls. AscendQ to the third and you can catch a game in their sports bar. Open 12:00 - 5:00. priceless and unique from every country currently In Your Pocket. Red Light Praha K-1, Praha 7, Bubenské nábř., MVl- tavská, tel. (+420) 261 31 41 51, www.redlight.cz. In the middle of Holešovice market is Prague’s very own little Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps WARSAW “In“IIn Your Pocket: BELFAST PRAGUE Amsterdam. Red Light is a whole melange of saucy goings on VILNIUS writtenwrrititt series of guidebooks.”

in one location. You will find an Amsterdam/Frankfurt style sex August - September 2009 YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY Aug - Sep 2007 December 2008 - January 2009 ladies and gentlemen, AAugusttSt - SSeptembert b 2009

supermarket, a red light centre with a peep show and video Užupis A brief sojourn inside Vilnius’ distinctly eccentric Better by casual or business-travellers, rooms and the Pleasure sex shop selling saucy souvenirs for independent republic design Q Stunning souvenirs, Vingio Parkas stylish shopping and the boys and girls back home. Sex Park open 24hrs, shop From Tolstoy to rollerblades, local crafts on display the city’s favourite park is A pulled apart and examined open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-15:00, closed Sun. The Great stag parties or hen Outdoors Feel the burn, catch the waves, take a hike

Gastro Tourism Sugar’s Cabaret I-5, Praha 1, Krakovská 25, Northern Ireland on a plate you all are welcome MMuzeum, tel. (+420) 222 21 07 96. Get a free beer After the Battle Warsaw Uprising 70 while you watch one of their strip, lesbian or auto-erotic shows. years on Christmas The Mouth of Including Markets If you so desire, have extra sugar in your bowl with a choice Old Town NORTHERN Gifts galore to Goldfingers Warsaw‘s Barbican N°52 IRELAND 3RODQG]á(w tym 7% VAT) Winter Chill Out UK - £5 HIGHLIGHTS & N°95 - 6Lt of seven rooms – one has a whirlpool. Various theme nights EU (excl. & UK) - €3 N°48 - 100 Kþ Massage and more www.inyourpocket.com warsaw.inyourpocket.com HIDDEN GEMS www.inyourpocket.com Q AP ISSN 1641-5264 spice things up too. Open 19:00 - 07:00. N°13 Complimentary copy www.inyourpocket.com Sweet Paradise Praha 3, Slezská 75, MJiřího z Poděbrad, tel. (+420) 737 66 82 33/(+420) 272 73 29 06, www.sweetparadise.cz. Boasting 12-20 (of 50) Air conditioned girls available per night, this is a more local affair offering beer and girls, the most famous of Czech commodities. All inyourpocket.com/survey sorts available from shows at the tiki bar, basic theme rooms, ‘special’ services and long term escorts. Print the discount voucher from the website. Foreign currency accepted. QOpen open daily:y:y: 12:00 - 05:00. A Velvet Praha 4, Ve Svahu 13, MVyšehrad, tel. (+420) 241 43 26 74, www.velvetclub.cz. The self-proclaimed 8 pm - 4 amm ‘flagship of erotic’ calls for all hands on deck a short taxi ride south of the centre. Amenities include bubble baths, video, free minibar and escort services. Call ahead and a taxi will pick you up free of charge. Q Open 24hrs. A Václavské náměstí 5, 110 00 Praha 1, tel.: +420 608 663 066 www.goldfingers.cz For more entertainment: www.inyourpocket.com

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com 86 STREET REGISTER

17. listopadu D-2 Chotkova B-1 Martinská D-4 Pod Bruskou C-1 U Milosrdných E-1 28. října E-4 Jáchymova E-2 Masná E-2 Politických vězňů F-4 U Obecního domu F-3 Alšovo nábřeží D-2 Jakubská F-3 Melantrichova E-3 Prašný most A-1 U Obecního dvora E-2 Anenská D-3 Jalovcová D-3 Michalská E-3 Prokopská B-2 U Plovárny D-1 Anenské Nám. D-3 Jánský vršek A-2 Mikovcova I-5 Provaznická E-3 U Prašné brány F-3 Anežská F-1 Jilská D-3 Mikulandská D-4 Průchodní D-4 U Radnice E-3 Bartolomějská D-4 Jindřišská F-4 Mikulášská E-3 Rámová F-2 U Sovových mlýnů B-3 Benediktská F-2 Jiřská B-1 Míšeňská B-2 Revoluční F-2 U Staré školy E-2 Besední B-4 Josefská B-2 Most Legií C-4 Růžová F-4 U Starého hřbitova D-2 Betlémská D-4 K Haštalu F-1 Mostecká B-2 Rybná F-2 U Sv. Ducha E-2 Betlémské Nám. D-4 Kamzíková E-3 Na Františku E-1 Rytířská E-4 U Zlaté studně B-1 Bílkova E-2 Kaprova D-2 Na Kampě B-3 Řásnovka F-1 U Železné lávky C-1 Boršov D-4 Karlova D-3 Na Můstku E-4 Řetězová D-3 Uhelný trh E-4 Břehová D-1 Karlův most C-3 Na Opyši C-1 Říční B-4 Újezd A-4 Břetislavova A-2 Karmelitská B-3 Na Perštýně D-4 Salvátorská E-2 V Cípu F-4 Celetná F-3 Karolíny Světlé C-4 Na Příkopě F-3 Saská B-2 V Kolkovně E-2 Cihelná C-2 Klárov C-1 Na Rejdišti D-2 Seminářská D-3 V Kotcích E-4 Čechův most D-1 Klášterská F-1 Na Zábradlí C-3 Senovážná F-3 Václavské Nám. F-4 Červená E-2 Konviktská D-4 Náb. Ed. Beneše C-1 Skořepka D-4 Valdštejnská C-1 Divadelní C-4 Kosárkovo náb. D-1 Nám. Curieových E-1 Smetanovo náb. C-4 Valdštejnské Nám. B-1 Dlouhá E-2 Kostečná E-2 Nám. Franze Kafky E-3 Sněmovní B-2 Valentinská D-2 Dražického B-2 Kozí E-1 Nám. J. Palacha D-2 Spálená D-4 Vejvodova D-3 Dražického Nám. B-2 Kožná E-3 Nám. U sv. Jiří A-1 Staré zámecké schody B-1 Veleslavínova D-2 Dušní E-1 Králodvorská F-3 Náměstí Republiky F-2 Staroměstské Nám. E-3 Velkopřevorské Nám. B-3 Dvořákovo nábř. D-1 Krocínova C-4 Náprstkova D-3 Stříbrná D-3 Vězeňská E-2 E. Krásnohorské E-2 Křižovnická D-3 Národní D-4 Šeříková B-4 Vikářská A-1 Harantova B-3 Křižovnické Nám. D-3 Nebovidská B-3 Široká D-2 Vítězná B-4 Haštalská F-2 Lázeňská B-2 Nekázanka F-3 Štefánikův most F-1 Vlašská A-2 Haštalské Nám. F-2 Letenská B-2 Nerudova A-2 Štupartská F-2 Voršilská D-4 Havelská E-3 Liliová D-3 Nosticova B-3 Templová F-3 Všehrdova B-4 Havelská ulička E-3 Linhartská D-3 Novotného lávka C-3 Thunovská A-2 Za Haštalem F-2 Havířská E-3 Maiselova D-2 Olivová F-4 Tomášská B-2 Zámecká A-2 Hellichova A-3 Malá Klášterní F-1 Ovocný trh F-3 Tržiště A-2 Zámecké schody A-1 Hlavsova E-3 Malé Nám. E-3 Panská F-4 Týnská F-2 Zlatá D-3 Hradčanské nám A-1 Malostranské náb. B-4 Pařížská E-1 Týnská ulička E-2 Zlatá ulička B-1 Hradební F-2 Malostranské Nám. B-2 Pelclova B-3 U Bruských kasáren C-1 Žatecká D-2 Hroznová B-3 Maltézské Nám. B-3 Perlová E-4 U Dobřenských D-4 Železná E-3 Husova D-3 Mánesův most C-2 Plaská B-4 U Lanové dráhy A-4 Charvátova E-4 Mariánské Nám. D-3 Platnéřská D-2 U Lužického sem. C-2

Ordinary operation - Effective from 9.5.2008

BUS 119, 254, AE to Ruzyně Airport

BUS 100 to Ruzyně Airport

BUS 179 to Ruzyně Airport

Metro

Changing station

Change to ČD trains/S lines

Infocentre

P+R Parking lot

Bus to Ruzyně Airport infoline

Funicular to Petřín

Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com

90 INDEX The freshest brew in town Abaton 56 Club 161 81 Huang He 31 Nagoya 39 Studio 54 58 Absolutum 24 Club 600 81 Hybernia 34 Náměstí Míru 70 Subway 30 Adagio 51 Coffee Fellows 48 Ibis Praha City 28 Na Poličce 60 Sudička 54 Adventure Playground 69 Coffeeheaven 48 Ibis Praha Smíchov 28 National Memorial 70 Sugar's Cabaret 84 AghaRTA Jazz Centrum 59 Coloseum 43 Il Giardino 40 National Museum 68 Sushi Bar 40 Akord 59 Como 42 Indian Jewel 33 National Theatre 63 Svatá Klára 36 Akropolis 41, 56 Corinthia Towers 21 InterContinental Praha 22 Nebe 57 Swank 56 Allegro 34 Corleone 38 Irish Club Prague 52 Neon Club 84 Sweet Paradise 84 Aloha Wave Lounge 51 Country Life 44 Jáma 30, 60 NOI 44 Švejk 32 Ambassador Casino 55 Courtyard Marriott Flora 26 Jazz Boat 59 Nordica 50 Taj Mahal 33 Amici Miei 38 Courtyard Marriott Prague Jet Set 52 Nordsee 44 Techtle Mechtle 36 Amour Hotel Residence 28 Airport 27 Jewellery Collection 67 Nostress 35 Tequila Sunrise 42 Andel's 24 Cowboys Steaks & Cocktails Jiří Světská Gallery 67 Novoměstský pivovar 30 Ter mi x 59 Angel 44 30 J.J.Murphy's 60 Nusle Bridge 70 The Augustine 24 Angelo Hotel 25 Coyotes 52 Josef 23 O'Che's 60 The Beer Factory 61 Ankora 27 Cross Club 56 K5 Relax Club 81 Old Prague Hostel 29 The Dancing House 70 Anna 27 Crowne Plaza Prague Castle Kafíčko 49 Old Town Square 63 The Chemistry Gallery 68 Antik City 25 26 Kafka Museum 67 Oliva 42 The Lions Bar 61 Apartments OASIS City 28 Cubism Museum 65 Kampa Museum 67 Olympos 33 The Noodle Bar 44 Appia Residences 28 Cukrkávalimonáda 48 Kampa Park 71 Osteria De Clara 39 The Pack 61 AquaPalace Aqua Park 69 Czech Museum of Fine Arts Karavanseráj 43 Ostrov Štvanice 71 The Saints 59 Aquapalace Hotel 25 65 Karlín London 49 Ouky Douky 50 Tlustá koala 60 Aria 21 Čedok 68 Karlovy Lázně 57 Our Lady of Snow 64 Top Secret Club 58 Ariston 27 Černý slon 34 Káva Káva Káva 49 Paneria 30 Torture Museum 68 Aromi 38 Chapeau Rouge 51 Kavala 33 Papas 54 Town Hall & Astronomical Around Prague Information Charles Bridge 63 Kavalír 28 Paris 23 clock 63 Centre 64 Chateau St. Havel 26 Kavárna Obecní Dům 49 Park Inn 28 Toy Museum 70 Astoria 25 Choco-Story: The Chocolate Kavárna Pavilon 49 Pekelnej Bar 54 Transport Museum 68 Atlantic 27 Museum 69 Kempinski Hybernská Prague Perfect 35 Tretters 56 Au Gourmand 48 Christie 28 23 Petřín 71 Trilobit 56 Azteca 42 Church of Our Lady Klementinum 70 Petřínské Terasy 40 Troja Chateau 68, 71 Babylon 42 Victorious 64 Klub 007 Strahov 57 Petřín Tower 70 Tropison cocktail bar 56 Back Doors 51 Dahab 43 Klub Lávka 57 Pizza Nuova 43 TV Tower 40, 70 Bambus 51 Daily Walks 71 Kmotra 43 Planetarium 69 U Betlémské Kaple 32 Banco Casino 55 Dancing Fountains 69 Kogo 38 Planet Sushi 40 U Budovce 50 Baráčnická rychta 31 Darling Cabaret 82 Korea House 39 Pod křídlem noci 35 U Bukanýra 58 Bar and Books 51 DC1 52 Kozička 41, 52 Popocafepetl Music Club 57 U Buldoka 58 Barceló 25 Decorative Arts Museum 65 Kri-Kri 33 Praga Sport Café 61 U Cedru 42 Barceló Praha 25 DISK Café 49 La Belle Epoque 52 Prague Classic Rental 29 U Císařů 42 Barock 51 DOX Centre for La Cambusa 43 Prague Info 64 U Černého vola 60 Beas 44 Contemporary Art 65 La Casa Blů 52 Prague Marriott 23 U Dominikána 36 Bed Lounge 34 Drake's 59 La Degustation 34 Prague Sightseeing Tours 69 U Emy Destinnové 36 Be kara OK! 56 Dubliner Irish Bar 61 La Fabrique 57 Prague Square Hostel 29 Újezd 58 Bellevue 34 Dům u velké boty 29 La Galerie 34 Praha Bike 71 U Kalicha 31 Belvedere 25 Duplex 57 Langhans Galerie 67 Pravda 35 Ultramarin 56 Best Tour 68 Dvorak Sec Contemporary 65 La Rustica 38 Premiant City Tour 69 U Malého Glena 41, 59 Best Western Hotel Páv 27 Dvořák Museum 65 Laura Club 84 President 23 U Maltézských rytířů 32 Best Western Premier Hotel Ebel 49 La Veranda 34 Primitiv Pravěk 35 U Modré růže 32 Majestic Plaza 26 El Emir 41 Le Grill 34 Punto Azul 58 U Mušketýra 32 Bethlehem Chapel 64 Élite 26 Leica Gallery 67 Radisson SAS Alcron 24 Ungelt Jazz & Blues Club 59 Big Sister 81 Elysee 26 Lemon Café 50 Ramada Airport Hotel Prague Universal 36 Blatouch 51 Escade 82 Letenský zámeček 35 27 U Pinkasů 31 Blind Eye 51 Escape 59 Letná 71 Real Tour 71 U Prstenu 50 Blue Light Bar 51 Espressamente Illy 49 Le Tram 52 Red Light Praha 84 U Rudolfa 59 Blues Sklep 59 Esprit Orangerie 34 Liberty 26 Reduta 59 U Sádlů 42 Bohemia 55 Euforia 57 Lokalblok 52 Repete 54 U Sedmi Švábů 42 Bombay Cocktail Bar 51 Exclusive Club 82 Loreta 64 Resto Café Patio 35 U Staré paní 59 Bordo 56 Extasy Cabaret 82 Lotos Club 84 Retro Music Hall 58 U Ševce Matouše 32 Botanical Gardens 70 Face Cafe 49 Lucerna Music Bar 57 Reykjavík 44 U Vodárny 31 Brasserie La Provence 33 Fluidum 42 Lví dvůr 32 Ridgeback 54 U Zavěšenýho kafe 50 Brasserie Praha 34 Folklore Garden 32 M1 57 Robert Guttmann Gallery U Zlatého tygra 60 Bredovský dvůr 32 Follow Me 82 Macao 31 (Jewish Museum) 68 U Zlaté konvice 32 Bresto 48 Four Seasons 22 Mad Bar 54 Rock Café 58 U Zlaté studně 36 Buddha Bar Hotel 21 Francouzská restaurace 33 Magická zahrada 38 Rocky O'Reilly's 60 Vagon 58 Budweiser Budvar Funicular Railway 70 Maitrea 44 Roma 43 Valdštejnská zahrada 71 Restaurant 32 Futura 65 Malostranská pivnice 60 Roxy 58 Valentino 59 Buffalo Bill's 30 Futurum 57 Maluj Creative Café 50 Royal Palace 24 Veg Food 44 Bugsy's 52 Galerie Jaroslava Fragnera 65 Malý Buddha 33 Rudolfinum 68 Veletržní Palace 68 BW Meteor Plaza 26 Galerie La Femme 65 Mánes Exhibition Hall 67 Rugantino 43 Velryba 50 Café Amsterdam 48 Galerie Václava Špály 65 Man-na 39 Rybanaruby 50 Velvet 84 Café Café 48 Gallery KusKovu 65 Manni Mini 33 Rybí trh 44 Venue 73 61 Café Imperial 48 Gecko 52 Marriott Executive Safir 41 Vertigo 58 Café Jungmann 48 George & Dragon 60 Apartments 29 Sarah Bernhardt 33 Vesmírna 50 Café Louvre 48 Gestapo HQ 70 Martin's Irish Pub 60 Seaworld 69 Victims of Communism Café Pavlač 48 Giallo Rosa 43 Martin Tour 69 Seventh Heaven 50 Memorial 69 Café Savoy 48 Globe 49 Masala 33 Shakespeare & Sons 50 Villa Müller 69 Caffrey's 60 Goldfinger's 84 Mash Hana 39 Shamrock Irish Pub 61 Villa Richter Restaurants 36 Cantina 42 Grand Café Orient 49 Matylda Botel 38 Sheraton Prague Charles Vltava 36 Carioca 81 Grand Café Praha 49 Mecca 57 Square Hotel 24 Vysmátý zajíc 61 Carlton 26 Grand Hotel Bohemia 22 Merlin 60 Sherlock's Pub 41, 60 Vyšehrad 63 Cartouche 42 Grand Hotel Praha 22 Metropol Music Cafe 43 Siam Orchid 44 V Zátiší 36 Casa Havana 51 Gusto 43 Miniatures Museum 67 Slavia 50 Wakata 56 Casino de Prague Le Hilton55 Hacienda Mexicana 42 Mirellie 39 Smetana Museum 68 Wenceslas Square 63 Casino Palais Savarin 55 Hanabi Hibachi House 39 Mirror Labyrinth 69 Solidní nejistota 58 Wigwam 36 Casino Panorama 55 Hapu 52 Mlýnec 35 Sovereign 27 XT3 58 Casino President 55 Hard Rock Cafe 30 Modrý zub 44 Sovovy Mlýny 32 Yasmin 27 Celebrity Café 41 Harlequin 52 Molly Malone's 60 Spearmint Casino 56 Yessi Café 50 Céleste 33 Harley's 52 Molotow Cocktail Bar 54 Sportbar Sparta ve Slavii 61 Zahrada v Opeře 36 Celnice 32, 56 Hergetova Cihelna 34 Monarch 35 Starbucks 50 Zanzibar 56 Prague Marriott Hotel, V Celnici 8, Prague 1 Century Casino Millennium 56 Hilton Prague 22 Mount Steak 35 St. Ignatius Church 64 Zapa Bar 56 Cigars and Coffee 48 Hilton Prague Old Town 22 Mövenpick 26 St. Nicholas Café 54 Zinc 36 City Cafe Cosmopolit 34 Historical Museum 65 Mozart Museum 67 St. Nicholas Church 64 Zlatá hvězda 61 City Museum 65 Hong Kong 31 Mucha Museum 67 Století 32 Zlatá Praha 40 Cityrama Prague 68 Hospoda Lucerna 52 Municipal House 63 Stone Bell House 68 Zlaté časy 58 City Walks 71 Hotel Černý slon 26 Museum of Communism 67 Strahov Monastery 64 Zlatý strom 41 Claris 27 Hotel Neruda 26 Museum Pension 29 Střelecký ostrov 36 Zoo Praha 71 Clear Head 44 Hot Pepper's 82 Mušketýr 29 Sts. Cyril and Methodius Zvonice 40 Cloud 9 51 House at the White Unicorn 67 Muzeum Karlova Mostu 67 Church 65 20 styles of ILLY coffee Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com