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PRAGUE ““Inin Youryour Pocket:Pocket: a Cheeky,Cheeky, Wwell-Ell- Wwrittenritten Sserieseries Ooff Gguidebooks.”Uidebooks.” Tthehe Nnewew Yyorkork Timestimes Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps PRAGUE ““InIn YYourour Pocket:Pocket: A cheeky,cheeky, wwell-ell- wwrittenritten sserieseries ooff gguidebooks.”uidebooks.” TThehe NNewew YYorkork TimesTimes OOctoberctober - NNovemberovember 22009009 Velvet Revolution The 20th anniversary Czech Spas Relaxing all over the country N°53 - 100 Kč www.inyourpocket.com Hotel Absolutum boutique hotel in Prague Hotel Absolutum is pleased to announce that pop and disco band BONEY M. was a VIP guest. For more information see www.absolutumhotel.cz BONEY M. Jablonského 639/4, 170 00 Praha 7 T:+420 222 541 406, F:+420 222 541 407 Email: [email protected] www.absolutumhotel.cz CONTENTS 5 ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES www.inyourpocket.com Contents Arrival & Getting Around 8 Culture & Events 10 Theatre, Festivals Velvet Revolution 15 Hotels - Where to stay 16 Whatever your budget or needs Restaurants 24 Guláš to gourmet and everything in between Cafés 40 Historical slices of Czech life with cake Czech Spas 42 Relaxing all over the country Georg Baselitz Through 6 December Nightlife 54 Explore the depths of Prague’s bars and clubs Sightseeing Essential sights 64 The castle, the bridge, the clock Directory Shopping 74 Business 75 Lifestyle 76 Adult entertaiment 81 Maps & Index Street index 86 City centre map 87 City map 88-89 Index 90 © Ursula Schulz prague.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009 6 FOREWORD Autumn is a difficult time for the Prague In Your Pocket office. We are melancholy about the summer’s end; but Europe In Your Pocket in a way looking forward to brisk days and colourful trees. Luckily the excitement and action that is Prague comes the place to be into full play these months, giving our minds something else to dwell on besides the passing of long summer evenings. There’s a plethora of new exhibits, shows and festivals on right now; check out what’s happening when you are in town starting on Page 12. for change. We are a nature loving country; especially when it comes to finding food in said nature. Last year, Czechs collected 2.75 billion Czech crowns from the woods. That’s not in lost mon- ey; that’s the approximate value of crops picked in the wild vegetation. According to statistics, mushrooms are number one and other forest fruits, like blueberries, raspberries, etc. follow. If you do want to try this Czech experience, take someone who knows what they are doing with you. There’s a saying – all mushrooms are good. Once. Two holidays in October and November give Czechs a welcome day off. October 28 is Czechoslovak Statehood Day. Strangely celebrating the founding of a country that no long exists; under Communism the holiday was called Nationalization Day and “celebrated” the transfer of private property to the state. Be- sides closure of shops and such, especially outside the centre, President Václav Klaus will most likely give a celebratory ad- dress and wreathes will be placed at memorials. November 17 is always Freedom and Democracy Day; but this year it’s also the 20th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution. Read our special feature on this momentous event on Page 15. Get out and enjoy the lovely Prague autumn; we’ll be there with you! Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with the Cover story 1150th aniversary of the city of Veliky Novgorod. Look out for a special supplement in our next Rus- On our cover we feature the sian guides and online at russia.inyourpocket. beautiful Baroque Valdštejnská com. Elsewhere, you can now get your hands zahrada or Wallenstein Gardens. on Sarajevo In Your Pocket when visiting the The bronze statues here aren’t Bosnian capital, and the same team - who have the originals; those were successfully pocketed Slovenia and Bosnia - are “borrowed” by the Swedes at now turning their attention to Italy, and to Venice. the end of the Thirty Years War. Experience this oasis of calm in We welcome enquiries from anyone who would the heart of Malá Strana. like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send us an email at [email protected]. Editorial Copyright notice Editor Jacy Meyer Text and photos copyright PIYP s.r.o. Berlin – city of change. ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES Contributors Jacy Meyer, 2000-2009. Maps copyright Wendy Wrangham, cartographer. All rights reserved. No part Twenty years after the Wall came Jeroen van Marle of this publication may be reproduced down, the city still pulsates with in any form, except brief extracts for Prague In Your Pocket Layout & Design Tomáš Haman history, creativity, variety and Photos Jeroen van Marle, the purpose of review, without written V Jámě 1, Praha 1, 110 00 permission from the publisher and diversity like nowhere else on Czech Republic Tomáš Haman, Wendy Wrangham, copyright owner. The brand name In Your tel. +420 224 94 76 01 Ursula Schulz, Robin Divila Pocket is used under license from UAB earth. This is what makes Berlin fax +420 224 94 86 51 Cover: © Oleksandr Kolesnyk, In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, truly unique. [email protected] dreamstime.com Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). www.inyourpocket.com Sales & Circulation Editor’s note To find out more, visit ISSN 1213-2128 General Manager Michal Jareš The editorial content of In Your Pocket www.mauerfall09.de © PIYP s.r.o. guides is independent from paid-for Sales Representatives advertising. Sponsored listings are Klea Radeva - mob. 733 602 988 clearly marked as such. We welcome all Printed by Tisk Horák, [email protected] Ústí nad Labem readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure Published six times per year Michal Jareš - mob. 721 810 520 the accuracy of the information at the 20,000 copies [email protected] time of going to press and assume no Publisher Craig Turp responsibility for changes and errors. be open, be free, be berlin. www.be.berlin.de Prague In Your Pocket prague.inyourpocket.com 8 ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT ARRIVAL & TRANSPORT 9 There are two classes on international trains, and prices Arriving by Plane Public Transport vary according to length of journey and class; expect to pay CZ: A brief history Praha Ruzyně Airport, tel. (+420) 220 11 33 14, fax one third more for first class tickets. For multilingual, quick (+420) 235 35 09 22, www.csl.cz. Prague's airport is 20km Prague’s public transport system (Dopravní podnik) is and friendly service, avoid the queues at the hlavní nádraží 4th Century from the city centre. A taxi to the town centre now costs around efficient, fast and reasonably clean. With three metro counters and buy your ticket at Wasteels or at the CR agency. The present day Czech Republic was populated by Celts 600Kčeven if you call a company to pick you up or talk to one of lines, 26 tram routes and 9 night trams you won’t need and it was the Celtic Boii tribe who gave the country its the representatives from reputable AAA. Don't pick one up from the bus routes that avoid the centre. Keep in mind that Latin name, Boiohaemum (Bohemia). outside the terminal (click here for taxi firms). Alternatively, use the centre of Prague is easily accessible on foot. Arriving by Bus 6th Century the ČEDAZ minibus service (tel. 220 11 42 96, 05:30 - 21:30) Florenc Bus Station J-3, Praha 8, Křižíkova 4, tel. The first Slavs travel from the east to the Prague area. that runs every half hour between the airport and Náměstí Tickets, valid for all means of transport, can be pur- (+420) 900 14 44 44, www.idos.cz. Most international 7th Century Republiky (F-2). Tickets cost 90Kč (including one piece of bag- chased from the numerous vending machines at all buses arrive at Prague's central Florenc bus station (Auto- According to legend a princess named Libuše marries gage, children under 10 free) and can be bought from the driver metro stations, major tram stops and news stands. busové nádraží Praha Florenc, open 05:00 - 23:00), which a ploughman and founds the Premysl dynasty. She or from the booth in the arrival terminal. For an extra fee, ČEDAZ You always need to validate your ticket yourself by is also the watering hole of several endemic species living prophesies that a great city will rise above the banks can also pick you up or drop you off at your hotel. stamping it in the machines at metro entrances and on solely on alcohol. For information on bus times inquire at of the Vltava. The cheapest way to get into town is on by bus: N°119 (2-8 trams. The most common ticket is the 26Kč transfer window N°8 (open 06:00 - 21:00). Alternatively, use the 10th Century times per hour between 04:18 and 00:10 with at least one ticket, which is valid for 75 minutes after validating (90 handy computer in front of window N°8 to search for your Václav I, misleadingly later to be called the Good King wheelchair-friendly bus per hour) runs between the airport and minutes between 22:00 and 05:00, on weekends and specific bus from the timetables online at the excellent Wenceslas in the Christmas carol, is murdered by his the Dejvická metro station (Line A, green) in about 20 minutes. public holidays). The 18Kč non-transfer ticket is meant www.idos.cz, which searches all forms of land transport. brother Boleslav. He becomes the country’s patron saint From Dejvická it is just five stops to Muzeum in the centre of for tram rides under 20 minutes with no changes, or in Window N°6 (open 05:30 - 20:00, Sat 07:00 - 19:00, Sun and his feast day is celebrated on 28 Sept.
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