Appendix A: Collecting Celestial Maps and Prints

Appendix A: Collecting celestial maps and prints Collecting antiquarian celestial maps is actually a specialized area of map collecting in general, similar to other specialized areas (e.g., county or state maps of a country, maps of a country or continent, road maps, sea charts, maps of military campaigns, town plans, maps of an individual mapmaker, maps of a particular period of time). In all of these cases, one is concerned with such issues as authenticity, condition of the paper, type of colorization (if any), displaying the map, preservation, and price. Much of what will be said below could be said of any antiquarian map, be it celestial or terrestrial. I will only touch on some of the high- lights specifically related to collecting celestial maps; more information is given in the references at the end. One issue that sometimes comes up has to do with the ethics of buying any kind of antiquarian map that was once part of a bound atlas. Since it is sometimes more profitable to sell a series of individual pieces than to sell a bound collection, some dealers have been known to buy an atlas and then cut it up into individual pieces. Many book dealers consider this to be unethical. However, many antiquarian maps were originally produced in a loose state and were never bound up in an atlas. In addition, many atlases that are purchased by dealers are already damaged or incomplete to begin with and would have no value as a bound source. Finally, most collectors cannot afford to buy a complete atlas but can afford to buy an individual piece, and in this way antiquarian maps remain in circulation for the enjoyment of people rather than being stored away somewhere unseen and unappreciated. A.1 THE MATERIALS IN PRINTED CELESTIAL MAPS Handmade celestial manuscripts on vellum or papyrus are exceedingly rare and expensive. Consequently, they are beyond the reach of most collectors, who are more likely to acquire printed woodblock maps or engravings made after the © Springer Nature Switzerland AG 2019 502 N. Kanas, Star Maps, Springer Praxis Books, https://doi.org/10.1007/978-3-030-13613-0 Appendix A: Collecting celestial maps and prints 503 1450s. All maps printed from an original woodblock or copper plate are consid- ered to be original maps. Over the years, however, the plate may have been damaged and repaired, or perhaps new or updated information has been carved or engraved on it. In this case, the resulting map is called a second, third, or higher “state,” depending on the number of times changes were made between printings. Some maps are produced for a specific atlas or book; others are produced loose, to be used separately or to be bound later. Because paper size may vary from printing to printing, the most reliable indicator of a map’s dimension is the image itself. Some people measure the height and width of the block mark (for woodblocks) or plate mark (for engravings). Others (as in this book) favor the dimensions of the innermost margins shown on the image. Some maps are produced and left uncolored, whereas others are colored at the time of production or shortly thereafter to enhance their beauty and value. Such coloring is called “original,” whereas if it is done some time after production it is called “later” coloring. Original coloring generally is uniformly and artistically done, may show some fading with age, uses more traditional colors rather than garish or modern “in vogue” colors, and generally matches the coloring of other maps made at the time. The green pigment verdegris used in the past had a copper and acid base that oxidized to brown over time and often leeched through the paper to show markings on the other side; both of these characteristics can be used to distinguish old from new coloring. However, there are some exceptions to these color rules. For example, to save money, some maps were originally hand-colored by amateurs or even children in assembly-like fashion, resulting in variations in quality and colors that crossed into or over boundaries. On the other hand, some modern colorists are true artists who are able to add color that is difficult to distinguish from that used in past centuries. A.2 CELESTIAL MAP PRESERVATION AND CONSERVATION The ideal map should have a clear and strong image printed on clean and flawless paper with sufficient margins all around. However, antiquarian maps rarely come pristine, and condition often is a relative term. In some maps, the paper may be brittle or discolored due to overexposure to light, the acid found in the paper itself (rare in old maps prior to 1800 that were made of rag-pulp), or from contact with framing material using modern acidic wood-pulp paper (resulting in a clearly demarcated brownish “mat burn”). Other maps have mildew damage or “foxing,” which are brownish spots due to mold caused by too much moisture in the air (see Figure 9.1 for example). Trauma and misuse can cause tearing, which is more serious if it impinges upon the image itself rather than being confined to the margins. Some maps that were originally issued across two pages in books may show 504 Appendix A: Collecting celestial maps and prints excessive wear or splitting on the centerfold through repeated opening and closing of the facing pages, or discoloration from the glue used to attach a binding stub to the back (verso) of the map. Insects, bookworms, and other vermin can produce wormholes or bite marks on maps. Dirt, smoke, and water can discolor or stain any product made out of paper. Maps are occasionally washed and bleached to remove dirt and stains, and this may cause them to feel stiff and acquire an unnatu- ral whiteness. Many of these problems can be prevented. Stored maps should be placed in areas that are free from direct light, moisture, dirt, and insects and vermin. They can be inserted in Mylar pockets that are acid-free and allow the maps to be seen but still protected from the elements. A room with a moderate temperature and dehumidifier or drying agent can help. Maps that are displayed should not be placed in direct light. They should be mounted on acid-free paper using acid-free tape. Ultraviolet-ray-blocking glass or plastic on the front of the frame can help to preserve the color and paper. As with stored maps, care should be taken to provide moderate temperatures and low humidity in areas where the maps are hung. Where damage has already been done to a map, it can sometimes be restored using the services of a professional conservator. Of course, the decision to pay for this service depends on the value of the map and the extent of the damage. It is important to keep in mind that antiquarian celestial maps look old because they are old, and minor wear and tear is to be expected in most cases. Occasionally a map may be “backed” with a thin sheet of tissue or linen or even “laid down” on a piece of heavy cardboard. This is done as a conservation measure to give strength to an otherwise fragile sheet of paper. To see if the map has been so treated, as well as to fully assess the quality of the paper, it is important to be able to examine the verso when buying a celestial print, especially if it is presented to you already framed. Other conservation measures are beyond the scope of this book and are best left to be discussed with a professional. A.3 BUYING CELESTIAL MAPS Celestial maps tend to be cheaper than their terrestrial counterparts. However, one can still spend over $10,000 for a print and over $100,000 for a complete atlas. But if one is careful, the vast majority of antiquarian celestial prints can still be purchased for less than $100 up to $2,000. Although most map collectors focus on terrestrial maps, celestial maps are growing in popularity, and their prices will probably increase. Constellation maps are especially popular, although if one understands their meaning, cosmological maps also can be very satisfying. Some people buy celestial maps as investments or to decorate an office or boardroom, but most buy them for their beauty and historical value. Particularly Appendix A: Collecting celestial maps and prints 505 undervalued are maps from the 19th and 20th Centuries. An inexpensive alterna- tive to an authentic map is a nicely printed reproduction, and to an atlas is a fac- simile edition. One should be careful to buy from a reputable source that will provide a statement of authenticity. This helps guard against fakes, which may be hard to identify. One should be suspicious if a supposed antiquarian map is too inexpensive, looks too clean and bright, lacks block or plate marks, and shows a solid appearance in the image where one would expect to find fine engraved lines. In addition, the paper used in antiquarian maps tends to be rougher than modern paper and often has a watermark or chain line impressions that are left by the grid on which the pulp was left to dry. Most map dealers carry antiquarian celestial maps, although they also may be found in a secondhand bookshop. There is nothing like visiting a map dealer’s show room, talking with the staff, and seeing the actual maps in person before buying. If you are a serious collector and have dealt with the dealer before, many will give you a small discount on their published price.

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