ISSUE 08 FEBRUARY/MARCH 2016 FREE

FOOD / DRINK / TRAVEL / LIFE

1 Contents

26 Bolster Moor Pies 05 19 37 52 Simnel Cake Ox Club The Pie-Off Travel

06 22 40 56 Bites Rise of Pies Spices Directory

13 33 42 58 The Pass Football Pies Good Pastry Q&A Guide

2 3 NORTHERN HEROES Bury Simnel Cake

imnel Cakes come in Trade Bazaarʼ at Covent – cakey biscuits are a very Smany shapes and sizes, Garden in 1845. Practically Lancashire thing.) but none as distinctive, nor as the entire town took a day trip Baked to be eaten during the richly satisfying as the ones to gawp at it. Easter period, it was originally they bake in Bury – which is A springtime celebration destined to fuel us through the why the town’s recipe is the cake, the filling consists of long days of Lent – specifically one that’s become Britain’s mixed dried fruits with nuts, for the middle Sunday when, best loved. An early form cherries and peel. It’s covered for one glorious day only, of viral marketing might with icing (often with toasted the forty day fast would be have something to do with marzipan) and decorated relaxed, and we could have our its pre-eminence. That and with 11 sugar or paste balls – cake and eat it. So that makes the fact that it tastes so darn probably representing the 11 it March 6th this year. good. In the 19th Century, the good apostles. The naughty town presented a whopping one doesn’t deserve a slice of 70lb Bury Simnel to Queen anyone’s cake, really. There Buy it at Bettys Tea Victoria, and baked a monster are even some versions of Rooms (bettys.co.uk) in 170lb Bury Simnel as the the cake that are more like a Yorkshire, or Greenhalgh’s centrepiece of the town’s biscuit (see also the Chorley (greenhalghs.com) in Illustration: Alice Duke Alice Illustration: stand at the ‘National Free- cake and the Goosnargh cake Lancashire.

4 5 THE BEAUTIFUL NORTH Bites You know, at Bitten, we proudly champion the north. But one of our favourite pie shops positively makes us look southern. Lochinver Larder, way up in Sutherland, is the force of nature behind Pies by Post. Order them, freshly baked, and they’ll be with you within 48 hours. And SAY CHEESE boy are they good. Try the Haggis Neeps and Tatties for How to make the best onion (red and white), a twist main, and the divine Rhubarb cheese pie? According to of garlic and use puff pastry: WHAT WE'RE Simon Rimmer, it’s all about “The butteriness helps bring READING and Strawberry for dessert. the cheese. “It has to be out the flavour of the cheese.” Or maybe the Venison and Lancashire,” he says. “It’s the Serve? With pickled walnut, Christmas saw an avalanche Cranberry followed by the SAS of cheeses, it’s sturdy of course. But what cheese? of food and cooking books. Pear, Chocolate and Almond. enough to withstand the bake, Take a look at our back page, Sadly, no Hemsley and Highland hospitality at its and cooks really beautifully.” for a master-class in the white Hemsley. No, wait, not sadly most delicious. Throw in potato, two types of stuff. at all. We heartily recommend these three belters. piesbypost.co.uk

The Dorito Effect (Mark Schatzker) Lifting the lid on the insanely addictive new (and frankly Frankenstein-like) flavours we're all craving these days, this fascinating book argues that these new tastes lie behind our obesity crisis. And he puts up a convincing argument. The Food Lab FLOAT ON (J. Kenji López-Alt) A weighty tome, this geek- tastic book takes a forensic Meat pie, upside down, in a look into the alchemy of bowl of mushy peas. With cooking – and asks all those ketchup. No, us neither. But searing questions you’ve this Aussie staple is sort of never thought of, but a seven medicinal. At least that’s the year old would. López-Alt way the origin story goes. Then, something to drink? We BIM BAM, specialises in breaking down love the range of Vietnamese culinary tricks and processes “It’s a proven hangover cure,” TURNING VIETNAMESE teas at Holland and Barrett. THANK YOU MAN to understand them better. says Nick Bishop, of San Organically grown at high And he includes some Francisco’s Aussie Pie Kitchen. With the arrival of Pho last autumn, another level by adding the other ingredients altitude, the range includes a Searching out African African Baobab Chilli Jam, seriously brilliant recipes/ The story goes that, in 1870 a green tea with lemongrass to Manchester’s the latest city to embrace the to suit your individual taste.” ingredients like baobab, superb with some cheese and experiments along the way. celebrated Melbourne drunk aid relaxation, an artichoke tea lip-smacking deliciousness of Vietnamese Daniel stalked the street food stalls of cashew, alligator pepper crackers; a blisteringly-hot, to help soothe digestive gripes and hibiscus flowers? Mold, but citrusy, African pepper stumbled into a cafe, ordered street food. Pho – a noodle broth made Ho Chi Minh City, to learn from the best. All Celebrity Diet Fails and a variety of diet teas. Flintshire isn’t exactly the first sauce; organic African tigernut, a meat pie and a bowl of pea sweet, sour and savoury by the addition of you need to do is rock up at the following to (Rebecca Harrington) Not sure if that’s especially place you’d consider, but that’s coconut and cashew butter soup. “He dropped his pie, with fish sauce, hoisin and chilli, is just what you sample this year’s best bowl dining. How to compare the five- scientific, but they taste divine. where the splendid family HQ (you’ll never go back to Sun ketchup, into the soup. Ate it need to fire you through the dregs of winter. palm-fulls-of-food-a-day diet of Bim’s Kitchen is. They don’t Pat after this one) and a great “Your first pho can be a daunting My Pho of Victoria Beckham, versus and, the next day he woke up have a shop front of their own baobab chocolate which blends experience,” says Daniel Sung, from 32 Ranelagh Street, Liverpool the steak and peanut butter and felt amazing. No hangover (yet) but James ‘Bim’ Adedeji the unctuous with the exotic. Liverpool’s My Pho. “Before you even think my-pho.uk sandwiches of Elizabeth for the first time in years.” and his wife Nicola have been All the products are gluten free, Taylor’s diet? Journalist of adding anything, take a couple of slurps Pie Minister’s take on the increasingly seen at food fairs vegetarian and most are vegan. Rebecca Harrington tries – to savour the unadulterated flavour of Pho ‘floater’ is slightly less lurid. in the North West with their and fails – a bewildering list the broth,” he says, of the dish that takes Trinity Kitchen, Leeds and range of sauces, jams, relishes bimskitchen.com of celebrity diets, so that we Mash on top of the pie, floating generations to perfect. Corn Exchange, Manchester and bottled fiery chilli treats don’t have to. She’s a great, in a gravy sea. “You make a “Purists will tell you the ideal pho doesn’t phocafe.co.uk over the last couple of years. Stockists include Lunya, witty and likeable guinea little well on the mash and put need any additional seasoning, but for Their range is widening daily Delifonseca in Liverpool; pig. But, really, you fear for the gravy into the well,” says most pho fanatics the essence of the pho I am Pho but some of our favourites so Taste of Honey Deli, Boulevard Madonna’s sanity. Jon Simon. experience is taking the blend of flavours to 44 George Street, Manchester far are the deep and complex Deli in West Didsbury.

6 7 In association with Burger and Lobster Let Them Eat Lobster There was a time when, unless you had a butler and personal chef, fresh lobster was mostly off the menu. And as for cooking it? GETTING INTO HOT WATER That all looks way too complicated, right? It’s the only pastry that’ll stand up to the rigours of a good long bake. And it’s a peculiarly English affair – for Executive Chef at Hawksmoor, Richard H Turner, it’s all about the hot water crust. Suitable for making hand raised meat pies, the pastry is rolled out in the usual way, but a mould is placed in the middle and the pastry is raised up around it and patted into shape. “Put boiling water onto the flour and lard mix, season it up, and you’ve got the perfect Victorian pastry – fatty inside and crispy on the outside” he says. His book, Hog – Perfect Pork Recipes from the Snout to the Squeak, pays homage to the versatility of his favourite meat. “Don’t be intimidated. Mastering the art is well worth the effort. Once you’ve got your head around them you’ll be able to take on many other wonderful dishes such as gala pies, game pies and terrines en croûte.” Put the kettle on. Directions Recipe Sift the flour and salt into a mixing bowl, then here was a time when, unless you had a peaceful journey. a Lobster (all for the set price of £20, and all stir in the sugar. Add the butter in pieces and rub Tbutler and personal chef, fresh lobster was Travelling all the way from the cool, clean are served with fries and salad). But when the OLD ENGLISH into the flour with the fingertips until the mixture mostly off the menu. waters off Nova Scotia, Canada, deliveries food’s this good, why complicate things? resembles fine bread crumbs. Stir in enough Thankfully, Burger and Lobster allow arrive at Heathrow every working day. “Each As well as being a deceptively simple dining water to hold the mixture together, then form us to feast like we’ve just won the rollover. restaurant in London receives a daily delivery choice, Burger and Lobster is a great bar in APPLE PIE into a smooth ball. They’ve brought outrageously fresh lobster, of fresh lobster, and we deliver to Manchester its own right, offering a range of carefully three times a week,” Maisie says. It’s a dish we can never get tired of. And when a beautifully prepared, and perfectly cooked, crafted cocktails, and an impressive range of Wrap in foil or greaseproof paper and chill for 30 within the reach of us mere mortals. Tuck in, However, in order to become more local beers. We love the gin fizz, one of the few recipe’s this good, it never goes out of fashion. minutes. VILLAGE without that sinking feeling of who’s gonna environmentally efficient, Burger and Lobster cocktails that’s been on the menu since day This gem dates from a 16th century cookbook pay. For £20, who’s worrying? are currently working on a way to reduce one. written by Somerset monks. And Somerset? We PEOPLE “We’ve got one of Europe’s largest tanks,” the number of deliveries from Nova Scotia, If you’ve not been, might we humbly like them apples. Divide the dough into two and roll out one half on explains marketing boss, Maisie Denning, as without sacrificing the freshness. suggest that you get cracking? a floured board into a circle to fit the base of a We love little gems like Bitten takes a behind-the-scenes tour. “We Equally, Burger and Lobster give the same Ingredients 20cm/8 inch pie dish. Woolton's Coast. Breathing can hold 35 tonnes of them in here.” amount of care and attention to their beef. Burger and Lobster Pastry: new life into a building that “We prefer Nova Scotian lobster. It Demanding only the best quality, the beef Ship Canal House 250g self raising flour Put the apples in a mixing bowl, then stir in the dates to the 1700s, Coast's travels well, is fully meated and has a good comes from Nebraska, America. Thanks to King Street Pinch of salt remaining filling ingredients. Spoon into the open fireplace, lush garden sized claw,” she explains. They do. We really their regular check-up visits, Burger and Manchester dough lined pie dish. Roll out the remaining wouldn’t like to get into a fight with one of Lobster are happy that their Nebraskan M2 4WU 125g brown sugar and comforting line-up of dough into a circle to form the lid. Lay over the them. supplier treat the ‘turf’ animals every bit as 125g butter Chipotle Glazed Chicken & As well as serving them with loving care, respectfully as their ‘surf’ partners. 0161 832 0222 3-4 tablespoons cold water filling, pressing down and sealing the edge with Sweet Potato Salad, rarebit Burger and Lobster believe in treating their “We don’t change anything about what we [email protected] water. Flute the edge with your fingers or crimp burger, or freshly-baked cakes lobsters with respect too. “We’ve thought do. We ensure the lobsters are the best they Twitter: @LobsterMCR Filling: with the prongs of a fork. Brush with a little milk come on like a warm hug. through every ethical aspect, and work closely can be, and our burgers are the best burgers. 750g cooking apples, peeled, cored and sliced and dredge with caster sugar. Make a slit in the "We've been friends for 37 with People for the Ethical Treatment of By not constantly developing new menus, we Opening times: 4 tablespoons sultanas or raisins centre of the pie for the steam to escape. years," says owners Karen Animals (PETA), to ensure that our lobsters can really focus on doing what we do to the 1-2 tablespoons sugar and Michele – and this is are as happy as they can be,” Maisie says. best of our ability,” Maisie admits. Mon-Thurs: 12pm-10:30pm ½ teaspoon ground cinnamon Bake on a baking sheet in the centre of a hot the realisation of a life-long Having been designed to replicate an It’s true, when you walk into Burger and (bar closes at 11pm) oven (200ºC) for 15 minutes, then reduce the dream. You can tell. There's oceanic environment, the tank at Heathrow Lobster, it might originally seem strange ¼ teaspoon grated nutmeg heat to moderate (180ºC) and continue baking is the perfect place to calm the crustaceans that you’re not given a food menu. But you Fri- Sat: 12pm-11pm Finely grated rind and juice of half a ripe lemon. love poured into every (locally down after their transatlantic jaunt. Even genuinely don’t need one. Embracing co- (bar closes at 12pm) for 20 minutes. roasted) cup of coffee. the conditions of the flight are carefully founder Mikhail Zelman’s mono-product To Finish: monitored, as the lobsters are kept at an manifesto, Burger and Lobster only offer three Sun: 12pm-10pm Milk Allow to cool down before serving. Serve with Coast, 7 Allerton Road optimum temperature to ensure they have a main courses; a Burger, a Lobster Roll, and (bar closes at 10.30pm) Caster sugar Cheddar cheese. coastwoolton.co.uk

8 9 GET STUFFED

Hannah Glasse’s seminal The Art of Cookery Made Plain and Easy (1747) contains a curious recipe for Cheshire Pork Pie – a layered concoction of pork, wine, sugar and apple. Probably, the recipe was a few hundred years old even by then. “The use of sugar, fruit and spices teamed with meat typified English medieval cooking,” says respected food historian Colin Spencer. Chatwin’s Bakers of Nantwich recreated the pie recently, to celebrate their centenary. Using a hot water crust pastry, pork tenderloin and Bramleys. “She went over the top on wine – there isn’t really a lot of space when you’ve filled the pie with a layer of pork, one of apples, and another of the pork, with butter on top,” baker Trevor says. But the result? “Utterly delicious.” Pork and apple – a marriage made in Cheshire. BLESSED ARE THE CHEESEMAKERS

Fleeing from civil war in 2012, with three young Awards in her first competition. Thanks to the children – the youngest just ten months old – belief of the West Yorkshire Enterprise Agency, was the beginning of a tale that reveals there’s and a community ready and willing to support another, inspirational narrative to the horrors of her, Razan secured a string of stockists. Syria’s death throes. And it’s a tale with Yorkshire Razan uses cow’s milk from Windy Bank Farm at the heart of it. in Liversedge and vegetarian rennet to produce “We lost everything,” says the former handmade, traditionally-folded cheese – with a pharmacy student from Damascus. “We fled with twist. “Traditionally, halloumi’s made with sheep no possessions. We needed to start over. Not and goat’s milk, but Yorkshire cow’s milk is such easy in a new country!” good quality that the cheese really works,” she TASTE OF New country. New food. A dawning realisation: says. FREEDOM “We used to eat halloumi every morning. But the More awards and plaudits followed, and now stuff you could buy here, if you could find it, was talk of expansion is in the air. “I’ve noticed that people are looking for quality, If, like us, when you see the rubbery, and tasteless and always imported. And yet, it was selling well. I thought, halloumi is and as there was no deli in town, we’ve opened words ‘Free From’, you sort one – The Road to Damascus. People tell me they of auto-complete it with always better fresh, so maybe I could do better.” travel a long way to come here.” ‘taste’, allow us to introduce The chemist in her gave Razan Alsous the Maybe, but not quite as far as Razan. Ayni Chocolate, in deepest confidence that her kitchen-table plans might “It’s nice to live in Yorkshire, I’ve never felt Barnoldswick. “We think ‘free just have a chance. away from my home,” she says. “People have from’ shouldn't mean living a “I’d never made cheese before, but I had a been really nice, they have offered a lot of bland, treat free life,” they say. macrobiology background, I was surrounded help. My motto is that nothing is impossible, And, true to their word, their by dairy farms, and I knew what good halloumi especially when there are people out there who wonderfully punchy, allergy- should taste like,” Razan says. can help you.” free chocs are anything but. So she swapped pharmaceutical chemicals for Got a last minute Valentines’ the alchemy of milk, rennet and salt. The magic Serving Suggestion gift to buy? Their gluten, dairy, of squeaky, delicious, fresh halloumi. nut, egg, grain, sesame seed, “I applied for a loan, got the help of a “I love it fresh and raw,” Razan says. “In summer, soy, and refined sugar free business mentor, and bought some second with watermelon and strawberries it’s really chocs might sound dangerously hand equipment,” Razan says. “It wasn’t cheese refreshing. Grilled, it’s another taste entirely, and straight laced. But you know making equipment, but my engineer husband its firm texture really comes into its own. Add it what they say – it’s always the made it work for us. And after a few months I instead of meat to skewers and burgers – it’s full quiet ones. was making cheese.” of protein.” Actually, she was making award winning aynichocolate.co.uk cheese – securing bronze at the World Cheese twitter.com/yorkshirecheese

10 11 In association with Vapiano The Pass Have It Your Way News from the food frontline When Vapiano took a fresh look at Italian favourites they single- handedly created a whole new dining experience, and a chance for us to have it our way. Every time.

Essential nutrients with a Northern twist

5th floor, Tower 12, 18-20 Bridge Street, The Avenue North, Spinningfields, Manchester M3 3BZ

(0844) 576 0811 [email protected]

Editor: David Lloyd

Art Direction: Matthew Barnes

Account Manager: Bex Flint [email protected]

Advertising Director: Chris Grimes [email protected]

Publisher: Helen Ramsbottom [email protected]

Long-awaited King Street Want to stock Bitten? Townhouse (FYI on Booth Email us: [email protected] talian deliciousness, served taste fresh pasta you don’t go “Chefs are front of house at theatre about it, and it’s so easy. Street, not King Street) has swiftly, freshly and with back. Ever. Vapiano,” says Vikki, “they’re We like to say ‘once you go, you finally opened its doors. I Written by: David Lloyd, Laura minimum fuss. Welcome to the “After a while, it became clear really at the heart of every one of know’,” she laughs – adding that Sporting the same style and sass Brown, Alice Whitehead, Joe Vapiano way of dining. Welcome to us that, with our ever-changing our restaurants.” customers soon become almost as sister Great John Street Hotel, to your new favourite Italian dietary requirements, allergies Order taken, card swiped, evangelical about the whole Shooman, Jamie Bowman, Miz this newer, bigger sibling has all classic – served exactly how you and preferences, the ability for guests are given a buzzer (if process. “You learn exactly what DeShannon, Laura Fell, Ally the sumptuous trimmings you’d like it. our customers to really fine-tune they’re waiting for a pizza to you love. It’s great to be able to Mitchell, Helen Ramsbottom expect from the Eclectic Hotel Created just 12 years ago, their meals was a real plus point cook) or simply watch their pasta get a dish exactly how you like Group with just a bit more room Vapiano took what we love about too,” says Vikki, of Vapiano's simmer away until it’s cooked. it. It really makes you learn a lot Photography: Chris Leah, to enjoy them in. Bedrooms Italian cooking – flavour-packed unique ordering system. “It’s great for groups of friends, about what tastes you’re drawn Jane MacNeil, Trinity Mirror are beautiful, many with a pasta, pizza and vibrant salads – Simply put, diners are given a as there’s no splitting the bill, to,” she says. freestanding bath at the foot of and took a fresh look at how they card, which registers exactly what everyone pays for exactly what And what taste is Vikki drawn Styling: Kate Parr the bed, definitely a hotel where could deliver a dining experience they’ve ordered. Extra chilli? A they’ve ordered. Same goes with to, Bitten wonders? "Well, we you’d want to enjoy a night in. that was fun, sociable and dash more garlic? A scatter of drinks too,” Vikki says. have over 20 pasta dishes, but Front cover illustration: There’s a bar, restaurant and endlessly customisable. king prawns? Customers order All of which makes Vapiano a you can’t go wrong with our Chris Spain afternoon tearoom, roof top “The emphasis, from day direct from cooking stations – great place for a speedy lunch, or Gamberetti e spinaci – king terrace and the promise of a one, was always on fresh,” says pizza or pasta, and a salad bar. the sort of place you’d be happy to prawns with basil pesto, cream, Other illustrations: Alice Duke, skyline infinity pool – that’s yet Marketing Manager, Vikki Chefs take their order, and make hunker down in for the evening: onions, cherry tomatoes and fresh Poppy Palin, Tom Bingham to open. eclectichotels.co.uk/ O’Neill. “Every day, our pasta, the food, fresh, in front of them. “There’s no rush. We don’t turn spinach,” she says. king-street-townhouse sauces and pizza bases are They’ll throw fresh pasta (from tables. You can stay as long as you No, we don’t imagine you all cooked from scratch,” she a bewildering variety of shapes like,” Vikki says. can. See you at the Corn We’re delighted to see Itsu (itsu. explains. “It’s quite unusual for – including increasingly popular And you’ll want to stay at least Exchange. getbitten.co.uk com) open in Spinningfields, the a fast-casual restaurant to make spelt varieties) into hot water, until dessert: “we’ve a range of Twitter, Instagram and Facebook: brainchild of the early pioneers everything fresh. We simply buy and tailor-make a sauce exactly to eight dolci, all made fresh, from Vapiano Manchester bittenmag of Pret, their menu celebrates our meat and vegetables, and use your liking: maybe adding a pinch scratch daily in the restaurant. Unit 13, The Corn Exchange the flavours of the Far East, high all our own fresh herbs.” of pine nuts, and a sprig more You can watch them being made M4 3TR in nutrients but low in calories It’s these herbs that punch herbs into a delicious basil pesto. in the glass maniffatura room by 0161 3487 590 and fat. Previously it’s only been their way through their pesto’s, Stir together into a wok, the pizza kitchen.” [email protected] SUBSCRIBE possible for us as part of a Euston their rich bolognese and tomato and hey presto! Dinner is Come for dinner, or just a sprint, bolt-through, pit-stop sauces, and their clean, crisp salad served. Fancy a pizza? The dough drink. Sit at the bar, order a beer Help ensure our survival – get our train takeaway. Time to spice dressings. And it’s the reason why will be stretched, smeared in a or wine, or sample “the best value Opening hours: issues for just £4 each, sent first up your lunchtimes, we love the this surefooted chain has found a rich, homemade tomato sauce Aperol Spritz around at £4.95”, Mon. – Thu. 11.00am–11.00pm class and hot off the press. fragrant Chicken & Coconut new, express route to our hearts. and cooked to perfection within Vikki says. Fri. – Sat. 11.00am–11.00pm Interested? Drop us a line at Noodle Soup. And fresh matters. Once you minutes. “It’s relaxed, there's a touch of Sun. 12.00am–10.00pm [email protected]

12 13 The Junkyard Golf Club (junkyardgolfclub.co.uk) re- launched in the New Year over at Great Northern. Twice the size and weirder than before, you get to pit your wits against your partner and putt your EAT way around a course of chaos. Expect star wars cameos, water stuff – speedboats, pirate ships and bathtubs – treadmills and a DRINK UV rave room. After all that you can feed your face with street food-style hot dogs, nachos and wash them down with themed cocktails. It’s £6 a round and DINE & open Tues-Wed 1pm -11pm, Fri 2pm - midnight, Sat noon - midnight and Sun noon -10pm. The city’s love affair with all The Corn Exchange has had tastes east continues apace with UNWIND another spate of openings. new Thai restaurant, Busaba Salvi’s (salvismanchester.co.uk) (busaba.com) anchoring up at has returned home. There’s still The Printworks. It’s the new an upstairs deli – lose yourself in chain’s first restaurant outside hams, cheeses, a huge selection of London, and promises Thai AT of antipasti and carefully chosen casual dining, and an exotic Italian wines and prosecco – melange of fruits and spirits but in addition there’s now a firing up the bar’s cocktail large basement restaurant with menu. The theme? It’s 21st private dining too. Sticking with LIVERPOOL century Bangkok – as is the the Italian theme Vapiano (uk. tradition-with-a-twist menu, vapiano.com) has also opened featuring Thai Calamari, Pad next door. With a whopping Thai and Thai curries, all made 400 covers, this is a new concept with Busaba’s secret recipe for Manchester with self- ONE curry pastes, developed in serve, made-to-order stations. association with Michelin Star Everything cooked fresh in Chef David Thompson. The front of you to your personal company’s second restaurant specification. Go easy on the outside of London is hot on the garlic, eh. heels on Hanover Street, at the foodie edge of Liverpool ONE, Shuffle along the block to due to open mid-March. Tampopo (tampopo.co.uk) and take your pick of being It’s been a rollercoaster few transported to Japan, Vietnam, years for Leeds-based Michael Indonesia, Malaysia or Thailand. O’Hare, opening his own There’s plenty on offer for the restaurant The Man Behind vegetarians and vegans amongst The Curtain and securing a us too. The venue has been Michelin star. Having sneaked spruced up and so has the menu, off to the other side of The you should find something there Pennines for conversations with whatever your food mood. We’re Ryan Giggs and Gary Neville, a bit partial to the Japanese Pork he’s emerged with the news Dumplings, The Vietnamese that he’s their new Creative Chicken Salad, The Malaysian Director. GG Hospitality – the Beef Rendang and the new ex-Manchester United players’ Massaman Curry is bloody company which encompasses fantastic. You get the picture. Café Football Stratford, Café Football Old Trafford and Hotel Football – opens a new venue in Manchester city centre this year, and O’Hare will be the man behind their food offering. Since receiving his Michelin star last September, O’Hare has ensured that Yorkshire now boasts the largest number of Michelin starred restaurants than any other county in England outside of London, For a full list of the dining options on The Terrace, and that his restaurant has a 12 month waiting list. His tasting Paradise Place, Hanover Street & Thomas Steers Way menu in Leeds is to die for, visit liverpool-one.com/dining as are the interiors, artwork, soundtrack and crockery-come- sculptures the food is served on. The mind boggles as to what he will conjure up for the hungry footballers.

14 liverpool-one.com/dining 15 Liverpool The rather windblown and In association with CAU forlorn expanse of St Paul’s It’s taken its time but, finally, Square has a new spring in its Club House (twitter.com/ step, thanks to the addition theclubhouseL1) is open for of Coffee and Cocktails business. And what an Atlantic (beancoffee.co.uk) by the good seaboard/Hamptons coastline people from Bean Coffee. By vision it is. It’s washed ashore day, it’s a business-friendly mix just outside Debenhams in of perky salads and generously Chavasse Park, and with its stuffed sandwiches. By night, 600 covers, its warren of a rather nifty cocktail bar for whitewashed, tongue and those Commercial District groove clad walls and its movers and shakers who want yachting club aesthetic, it’s a to escape the madding crowds confident, bright and refreshing for a secret tryst with John from intervention, with just the accounts. right balance of laid-back and luxury. It’ll please the city’s Crust (crustliverpool.co.uk) cocktail crowd no end – and has arrived on Bold Street. its New England-inspired And we’re big fans. The latest menu of fish, deli platters and venture from the Paulo and rotisseries will make a tasty Donato double team – the Ant addition to Liverpool ONE’s and Dec of Liverpool – sees a ever-expanding waistline. mammoth Marana pizza oven, “We’re all so excited about which gobbles up and spits it. We can’t wait to open the out entire forests of wood to doors. It’s been two years in the cook the restaurant’s signature planning because we wanted to pizzas. Our favourite? The get something that was perfect black base, made with activated for Liverpool,” says Chris Hill, charcoal: it’s delicious. “We’re managing director of owners the the only restaurant in the New World Trading Company. country offering this new pizza base option,” Paulo says, Venerable Liverpool brewers, explaining that the natural Higsons wants to stake its claim vegetable charcoal added to to a corner of the now-actually- Crust’s pizza dough is said to buzzing Baltic quarter. The help with bloating. plan? To turn a row of empty Moo Kid on the Block warehouses into a brewery, Next door to Crust, KO Grill a distillery, visitors centre, (kebabishliverpool.com) brings retail and sampling hall. its Asian cuisine into the city, via It starts with the beef. Pampas-fed, free-roaming, wet-aged, juicy Argentinian The location is the corner of its Lodge Lane debut. With its Bridgewater Street and Simpson two-and-a-half metres charcoal beef. But there is much more to CAU than, well, cows. As Head of Marketing Street, just down from Baltic pit and its clay pot ovens, this is Bakehouse. “The proposals will meat-cooking Revenant style. Charley Springall explains. bring the neglected buildings Healthy too. When meat’s this back into active use to create simply cooked, you can be sure animated and attractive of one thing – it’s the best it t’s as much about the experience as it it’s all wet-aged: the prime cuts are vacuum CAU Media City environment,” they say. “The absolutely can be. “Iis about the amazing steaks,” Charley packed, sealed in their own juices, and allowed Orange Building, Media City, intention is to install a state says, “We were passionate about creating a to age, slowly, as the ship crosses the Atlantic. Manchester of the art, highly engineered, For a while it was rumoured restaurant so authentic, so perfectly inspired The result? Meat that’s incredibly moist, M50 2HE to be BrewDog, but now we German-manufactured beer by a Buenos Aires grill house experience,” tender and packed with flavour. 0161 672 6388 know – the fate of the old Mello production plant which will she says. So passionate, in fact, that should “Make no mistake, Argentinian beef is [email protected] occupy the majority of the Mello bar is in the city’s hands. you pick up CAU and plonk it down in famous for a reason,” Charley says. “These are The Merchant, due to open in available ground floor” with, Our favourite butchers, Edge Caballito or Monserrat, or any Buenos Aires happy cows, treated well. And their meat is Spring 2016, will see Chibuku’s Grilling Times: they add, a tour of the “Higson and Sons, have taken over neighbourhood of choice, it would just given the care and attention it deserves.” Richard McGinnis and Lewis Mon–Sat 7:30am–11pm Brewery experience” and, let’s the counters at Delifonseca’s seamlessly slip into place. Admittedly, if That means hand cut steaks, served so Boardman – who helmed the Sun 7:30am–10:30pm face it, there’s not been much of dockside deli (delifonseca. you picked up any of the three Manchester that each and every one sings: “We try our launch of The Shipping Forecast that of late. We think it sounds co.uk). Hurrah. There’s really restaurants into an Argentinian suburb, you’d best to educate our customers. People can what seems like a century ago – CAU Didsbury like a great addition to the area. not much more to say about have to warn the punters about that strange, have their steak exactly as they want, but curate a space for exciting new 700 Wilmslow Road, Man cannot live on bread alone. this other than – GET YOUR glowing orange ball in the sky. we care so much about their experience that bands, DJs and a Scandinavian- Manchester, MEAT HERE. Thank you. Honest, democratic, fun and energetic – we’ll always recommend the best method Talking of which, Black Lodge inspired bar menu (with a when Buenos Aires goes out to eat, everyone’s of cooking,” Charley says, explaining how a M20 2DN Brewery visiting greatest hits bill of street 0161 448 1883 , in Kitchen Street Where to go to satisfy those invited. There’s no standing on ceremony, no perfect ribeye is served medium-rare, to allow food hawkers). [email protected] (blacklodgebrewing.co.uk) is a late night boozy cravings? starchy etiquette: here, it’s about good times, that juicy marbling of fat the time it takes to new craft beer bar serving the Enter Liverpool’s Late Night great food and no attitude. render down and become deliciously, mouth- Grilling Times: hungry young creatives of the BBQ Club. Launching in Feb, The cheeky young pup to grown-up Gaucho wateringly moist. Baltic (and the middle aged the guys behind Slims Pork Grill, CAU was born out of a desire to add Teaming the star players up with spicy street Mon–Fri 12pm–11pm ones, like us). At the back – well, Chop Express are bringing a a little theatre to the proceedings. To mix food – which makes excellent sociable starters Sat–Sun 9am–10:30pm every good bar has to have its mix of food, drinks and music things up, and show that great steaks isn’t – home-cooked chips, and an astonishing very own microbrewery, and to the after-work industry the preserve of the fancy-pants fine dining range of own-label wines (from Argentina, CAU Wilmslow Black Lodge doesn’t disappoint. crowd and those who just restaurants. Spain and France), CAU’s new Media City 22-24 Water Lane, There’s a frisson to their brews aren’t ready to go home yet. “We wanted to come up with a brand that venue caused something of a stampede when Wilmslow too – because you can only From Thursday-Sunday, is informal, cool and a bit quirky,” Charley it opened recently. Watch out for its new SK9 5AA sample them here. We hear the 10pm-late, expect sticky ribs, says. It’s proved hugely successful, with 17 Midweek Meatup – offering a new (not on the 01625 535 195 terroir of the Baltic imparts a BBQ chicken and DIY dirty CAU’s-a herd, you could say – already offering menu) cut of meat, with chips, salad and wine, [email protected] salty marine tang to their session burgers – washed down with that casual, accessible dining experience: with for a very decent £20. ales. The venue’s the latest cocktails, beers or shakes to grass on the ceiling, sky on the walls, and the You herd it here first. Grilling Times: offering from those Liverpool a backdrop of punk, funk and pampas at the heart of everything they do. Mon–Sat 10am–11pm Craft Beer Co people. Hop But, anyway, back to the beef. At CAU, caurestaurants.com rock and roll. Look out for Sun 10am–10:30pm heads, head this way. special ticketed nights too. 16 17 Leeds Another great new menu can OUT OF THE KITCHEN be enjoyed at House of Koko Need a little colour in your life (houseofkoko.com) in Chapel at this time of year? Head to Allerton. The independent Turtle Bay (turtlebay.co.uk) for tea and coffee house offers the full-on rush of rum, reggae the good old Leeds’ coffee and jerk. Having taken over North Star, as well as a superb the former O’Neill store at The range of loose teas and a menu focused on locally sourced Ox Cheek Light shopping centre on Albion Street in Leeds, the Turtle Bay produce, in their neat and menu consists of Caribbean trendy little premises. Last classics such as goat curry year they started their monthly with flatbreads, roti wraps and pop-up specials with some their ‘Jerk Pit BBQ’ alongside truly prestigious chefs – this burgers and jerk pork ribs. And month’s with Ben Tesh on it wouldn’t be a fully Caribbean Saturday 30th January sold out offering without cocktails immediately after New Year of course; more classics like (unheard of when everyone mojitos, rum punch and coladas. is broke). Deliciously simple ideas executed with flare and After visiting a friend in Shipley set in such a cute environment. and asking for somewhere great Try crushed avocado on grilled to eat en route home, we were sourdough with chillies, directed to Bradford’s Classic bacon with baked beans on Persian (Little Horton Ln). sourdough with crispy rice, or Standing out a bit from the rest the stunning seafood platter of Bradford’s famous curry including pickled mussels, orientated food offering, the octopus terrine with oyster unassuming venue is the top dip, and smoked salmon – it’s restaurant in West Yorkshire an absolute win. on Tripadvisor. With a menu delivered in a traditional Can anyone do artisan Persian style, the dishes include breads like Wapentake handfuls of fresh herbs, fruit, (wapentakeleeds.com) though? meats and vegetables – simple, The latest addition to Leeds well-delivered classics. Hence bar scene, they’re an anomaly the restaurant’s name. The in that they avidly show family-run restaurant has football games but they’re not as good a welcome as it does a just pub, and they serve great food, well worth a trip to and food but they’re not just a deli. advisable to move fast before with hand-crafted workstations It’s a Yorkshire-themed cafe, they’ve got a waiting list too. and classrooms-style kitchens, bar and deli. And if you want to delivering their regular courses, know what Wapentake means If you fancy learning to cook baking training, foodie events you’ll have to visit and read great food yourself, we heard and pop-ups – an open book of their beautifully painted walls. word that cookery school ideas to get involved in, then get A stand-alone idea, Wapentake and foody event people Get adventurous in your kitchen. is the brainchild of Anton Cooking (get-cooking.org. Welburn and Emily Youell uk) are opening new fully- Brasseries used to be a bit – widely reported to have refurbished premises. With the old-hat, but the revamp at kick-started the renaissance of motto ‘Discover simple good Malmaison, Chez Mal Leeds’ oldest street, Kirkgate. cooking and be inspired’, they (malmaison.com) says otherwise. Set in the former cloth offer classes for beginners and Having launched their new merchant’s home at number the experienced home-cook, A La Carte menu just before 92, the building was renovated “It was only t starts because you want loved it. We started our burger is our first full service restaurant. on everything from how to Christmas, the refurbished with investment from the “Ito eat something you can’t bar, Patty Smith's, because who It’s the culmination of everything make a stupendous tomato ‘New York style’ restaurant and Lower Kirkgate Townscape going to be a little find. So you cook it yourself. We doesn’t love a good burger? See we’ve learned, and of everything sauce from scratch to Asian champagne bar is renowned for Heritage initiative, and it set up Dough Boys because no also our foray into Taiwanese, we love. We saw the Grillworks food and baking. They’re due taking its food pretty seriously, seems the investment was well project, and it’s one in Leeds was doing authentic Fu-Schnickens. Winning the grill on holiday in Portland, and to open at the old dance school with the new menu proving just worth it. Eat in, take out, drink Neapolitan pizza by the slice, so Street Food Awards gave us the knew we had to have one. It’s on Springfield Commercial that. Including dishes like their Yorkshire gin or a good ale, and kinda just run it seemed like a good idea. And confirmation that we needed one of only three in the country, Centre in Farsley in Spring, famous strip steaks, Lobster have a play on their painted Belgrave (the city’s astute music to push forward with more and it produces a depth of Béarnaise, Goan Moules, and piano, the place is buzzing. venue, run by Simon Stevens ambitious plans. flavour you simply can’t get on Seared Tuna Mignon, with away with itself.” and Ash Kollakowski, with Everything I do, I do because a conventional kit. It only burns additional Prix Fixe menus and Davy adding the flavour) was I want it to be the best it can be. solid fuel – so it burns charcoal an apparently ‘unlimited’ Sunday The Ox Club’s the perfect environment to try That’s just the way I am. When and a little wood for flavour. lunch offering, what’s not to new things out without it being a I started in the business I was We’re trying pear out at the love? They mix a mean cocktail Development Chef, disaster if it didn’t work. washing dishes. But I wanted to moment, it’s sweet and fruity. (their champagne-based Bellinis The original Dough Boys menu be the best kitchen porter I could I’m still learning all the are delicious) and have a pretty Ben Davy, is firing was written two weeks before be. Same when I was putting interesting things you can do reasonable selection of wine, we opened Belgrave. I had no salad on plates, it had to be the with the grill. Yes, the steaks so with everything reasonably on all cylinders, pizza kitchen to test anything in. best garnish in the city. are amazing, but you have to priced they’re giving classy, fine We installed the oven two hours I always wanted my own place, try our cauliflower, beetroot, dining an accessible, fun twist. and showing how a before we opened. and we’d been talking about grilled pumpkin pie, and our salt We were doing well at festivals Headrow House for a while. But beef cooked low and slow in the little hunger can go – especially Beacons – so we we know its history, and we knew embers overnight. We make the knew we had a product people it would be a challenge to bring most out of every ounce of heat, a very long way. He loved. But it came from our it back to life. But we loved the and every cut of meat. We’ll grill desire to try things. If it excites building. And the Ox Club sits guinea fowls whole, make a stock shares his story so us, we’ll give it a go. That was perfectly within it. It’s a nice size, out of the carcass, or use the the culture at Belgrave – we 40 covers or so. wings and legs for starters. far. did a ramen thing, and people Unlike our other ventures, this We source our meat from

18 19 R&J over in Ripon, and our fruit and veg from Delifresh who work with small farms around Yorkshire. The kale is amazing. Everyone is really keen to try new things here. People want to taste new stuff. There’s an appetite for experimentation that really nurtures new talent. You get the feeling that the city really wants you to succeed. The result is that it inspires you to really think further outside the box. We had no idea if this would work, and if people would eat this way – it’s a very Argentinian WHAT'S IT LIKE? style of dining. No standing on ceremony. It’s about reaching We sent Leeds correspondent over and trying what your mates Miz DeShannon along to pick a are having. few stand outs. It’s a small room, you can see everything that’s going on Taking North American, Spanish in the kitchen. It’s great to see and Argentinian cooking the grill being used, the chefs traditions and putting them to playing around with stuff, to feel work on good Yorkshire produce, like you’re a part of something in a Scandinavian-style space different. (well-designed, minimalist, wood Next up? We want to revisit furniture), the Ox Club showcases our ramen thing. Ben, our head the brave new world of cooking, chef, spent ten years in Japan, so Leeds style. Everything on the watch this space. We’re talking menu is designed to share. Not about a second Dough Boys site in Leeds, and one in Manchester. in a tapas way, but by mixing up It’s not hard to get things right. the interesting combinations of If you love what you do, it’s fun. dishes the menu offers. Here are We’ve got the best team. And just some of the Ox Club’s menu we’re in a city where, suddenly, highlights: amazing things are happening – look at Grub and Grog, The Cherry wood smoked trout Brunswick, Bundobust and & whisky cured salmon with Laynes Espresso – people doing horseradish, beetroot and apple. what they love, just brilliantly. Fusing strong, earthy smoked It’s a great place to be.” and cured fish with a lively horseradish beet and apple Ox Club, Headrow House, dressing shows a kitchen that BAR, CANTEEN & GARDEN Bramleys Yard, The Headrow, really gets flavours. Leeds, LS1 6PU. THE MERCHANT Burratina & smoked mozzarella with fennel, lemon and black pepper oozes with deliciousness. A delicate smoky flavour lets you know – they’re really using that charcoal well.

Roasted cauliflower – a blackened floret of cauli, served with a romesco sauce. It doesn’t The Seven Stages sound like much, but this humble of Chicken little side dish has received a Slaughtering lot of attention. The alchemy that happens when flame and wood smoke transforms simple ingredients.

Hanger steak, charred on the outside, and blush pink inside, served with salsa verde, is sensational. Oh, and the home cooked sea-salt chips that go with it. Don’t forget them.

The pumpkin pie is a stand out dessert. Like an American twist on a Christmas pudding – stodge free, and refreshingly unlike any pumpkin pie we’ve ever tasted. OPENING SPRING 2016 Or any pie, come to that. A hat Sign Up At tip to the grill’s homeland, and a Facebook.com/Nightcrawler-Pizza I N S T A G R A M . C O M / T H E M E R C H A N T L I V E R P O O L perfect end to the evening. For Details

20 21

PRESS_ADVERT01_3mmBLEED_S1-V1.indd 3 25/01/2016 15:54 Its origins are older than you think. And, for a while, it looked like its days were numbered. But the pie is bouncing back, as a new wave of inventive and passionate pie makers find. Ally Mitchell digs in.

imply sublime on a cold day, like nutmeg and pepper. Sthe pastry-topped pie is a But its roots are found in linchpin of traditional British Ancient Egypt, with the first cuisine. Together with fish and evidence of pies surfacing around chips, roast beef and the bacon 2500BC. The Egyptians made butty, us Brits have a loving a pastry from oats or wheat to predisposition towards pie. encase a sweet honey filling. From Scotch pies to Cornish Although enjoyed and adored pasties, pies say as much about by other countries, including who we are, and what we’re made the United States and Australia, of, as our dialects and customs. Sam Lacey, reviewer from the But that’s not prevented us from blog Pierate, believes that Britain meting out a cruel and shocking has a fondness for the dish that punishment to our most reliable surpases the rest. It’s why the food delivery systems. The British Pie Awards and British Pie RISE OF THE PIES mystery meat and hollowed-out Week are such firm favourites on horrors of the pies that line the the foodie calendar. supermarket freezer cabinet “Something that does unite are a pale shadow of the pies we us nationally is that, everywhere were weaned on. The pies that I go, people love pie. On the fuelled the fires of the industrial continent they don’t share revolution. The pies we took our love. In Britain, it really is An Honest Crust down the pit. something we identify with,” he The pies that built Britain. says. Now, however, there is British pie peaked in popularity something stirring. ‘Glam-pies’ during the Victorian era due to from restaurants Pieminister, Pie cheap cuts and local ingredients, & Ale and Great North Pie Co (left particularly the Thames’ and below) have lifted the lid on bountiful supply of eels. Not the mass-produced, soulless steak always containing the meat they pies, and filled us with renewed claimed (as demonstrated so hope – not to mention a range of chillingly in Sweeney Todd), the hitherto unheard of flavours such rich filling was kept safe inside its as black squid and chilli, or wild pastry wrapping. Pie and mash boar and chorizo. houses were a typical London The British pie has been on feature, serving pie with mash quite a journey since it arrived on and eel liquor. Are these modern our shores in the twelfth century. pie restaurants an imitation of The meagre filling was literally the pie and mash houses, or is buried inside a casing, known, something else happening here? alarmingly, as a ‘coffyn’. Within, To the award-winning Great all horrors lurked. It was the North Pie Co. in Manchester, it’s perfect place to bury bad meat, about building on tradition. An disguised with a handful of spices occasional visitor to London’s AK54 Photography

22 23 remaining pie and mash houses, founder Neil Broomfield saw the attraction in pie and in regional flavours in particular. Showcasing the Northwest's suppliers and flavours, the company uses the best local ingredients. Neil’s appreciation of food is poured whole-heartedly into each bake. “I love pies. I’d never made a pie in my life before I started making pies at home. I’d make my visitors a cheese and onion pie, using Lancashire cheese, local butter, taking something that’s quite simple and trying to make one of the best versions of it. It was a way of welcoming people to the North, I suppose.” As Supreme Champion of the British Pie Awards in 2015, Great North Pie Co. has the ultimate seal of approval. “We love food and that’s the thing, I think we just make pies a bit more interesting,” Neil says. For Pie & Ale’s Rob Ashpitel the restaurant started as a compliment to the company’s initial venture, Bakerie, the perfectly on-point bread and wine restaurant in Manchester’s Northern Quarter. Pairing pie with its sidekick ale was always going to be a winner, and the restaurant offers a range of pie and ale flavours from around the world. It’s the perfect food pairing experience. With palates and diets constantly changing there are always new culinary avenues Cheese and Onion. to explore. “By predominantly SEVEN NEW PIES THE PIE POLICE So, in summary, we’re still a serving only pies it gives us TO TRY little traditional when it comes great scope to do this whilst Next time you’re unsure whether to getting our fill. It’s hardly also keeping classics available, The modern pie is diversifying to buy Mr Kipling’s Bramley surprising, there's a lot of this keeps our menu fresh and our conceptions of the dish Apple Pies or Aldi’s Specially history to shake off. A portable innovative,” says Rob. – move over chicken and Selected brand, help is at hand. consumable to Victorians and Influenced by the Australian’s mushroom, here are some Pierate is a pie review blog the Cornish, the pie was our first love for the no-nonsense pie more unusual flavours the pie offering reviews on any pie for fast food. And, thanks to a new supper, Pieminister founders sale. Started in 2009 between experts have crafted. breed of baker, they’re back – Jon Simon and Tristan Hogg friends Sam, Rob and Tim, the carried in cardboard boxes from helped kickstart the pie revival site has escalated into becoming The Great North Pie Co Glastonbury to the terraces of the back in 2003. Australian pie the pie industry’s essential read. Smoked eel, Horseradish and Premier League. cafes are huge tourist attractions, The three have now been on TV Apple And now for the really difficult cornerstones of their community, as pie experts and judges to the question – just what is the future and an obligatory post-match (or British and Scotch Pie Awards. Pieminister of pie? “Honestly, if I knew post pub) hangout. Having reviewed over five Thai Massaman Curry with the answer to that I’d tell you,” There, pies are sold with a hundred pies, they know what Peanuts laughs Neil. One thing seems mound of mash stacked on top, they’re talking about. With their certain, though, pie is not going and drenched in gravy. These Pie & Ale anywhere. “The future of pie seven c’s – colour, consistency, ‘floaters’ were the inspiration Crocodile, Camel, Mouflon or is limitless,” says Rob, adding capacity, chewiness, cheapness, behind Pieminister’s innovative Wild Boar that opportunities vary from content and condition – the chain of restaurants, cafes and gluten-free and vegetarian team are analytical in their aim pubs serving pies across Britain, Pie Hole in Leeds options, snacking products to the to discover hidden pie gems including venues in Leeds and Jerk Chicken Curry ultra-luxurious game pies with across the country and abroad. Manchester. aged port. They are firm when it comes to They offer British ingredients Morcambe FC, Chef Graham These pie restaurants are what defines a pie. ‘It has to be cooked in a light pastry casing, Aimson (winner of the swiftly re-colonising our high fully encased in pastry, that’s the with the mash and gravy ‘floater’ British Pie Awards 2014) streets, and staking their claim British Pie Awards definition,’ dining experience. With a rueful Pork, Irn-Bru and Chilli on menus again, thanks to the says Sam, ‘we’re stricter and say laugh Jon claims their most tenacity of the bakers who it should also have a lid made successful pie is the steak and ale, Nice Pie (champion of the never stopped believing. And, from a separate piece of pastry.’ otherwise known as the Moo; British Pie Awards 2014) by mixing inventiveness with So be aware that next time you’re maybe a surprise to some due to Kangaroo Pie and Squirrel Pie tradition, the future looks good. served a ‘pie’ in a casserole dish their impressive menu. Likewise, The future looks pie shaped. with pastry merely laid on top. in Pie & Ale the favourite is the Higgidy Pies “Food fads will come and go, You deserve better. Steak & Yippee Ale, and for Cauliflower Cheese Pie with but there’s always going to be The Great North Pie Co. it’s Chestnut Crumble room for pie,” says Jon. pierate.co.uk the regional best of Lancashire

24 25 OUR PLACE The Upper Crust

If Yorkshire is pie county, then Bolster Moor Farm Shop has a better claim than most to be its capital. Bitten meets the reigning Pork Pie Appreciation Society’s pork pie maker of the year. Photography: Chris Leah

t doesn’t take long to shake the best. A place where, in the yourself free of the M62’s words of owner Simon Haigh Iclogged up arteries. In ‘Second is no good to anyone.’ less than ten minutes you’re “If you entered a competition in Golcar, climbing over the and you told me you’d come moors, at the windy edge of second, what’s the first thing I’m Huddersfield. It’s fastest route going to ask you?” he prods us, from wherever you are right now mischievously. to the best pork pie in Britain. “Who won?” And it’s a route you’d do well to “Exactly,” Simon says. And acquaint yourselves with. Before we’re off – on a tale of how Bitten eats them all. second, for this astute farmer’s From the escarpment of son, was the push he needed to Scapegoat Hill, Yorkshires secure his place in the pork pie West and South recede away annals. to a vanishing point where soil Born on the farm, Simon and meets sky. Somewhere out there business partner/cousin Andrew is Wilson’s of Leeds, Broster’s Whitwam took the reigns from of Huddersfield, and Robinson’s their fathers a decade or so of Halifax. They’re close. But, in ago. “They had a poultry farm, Pork Pie terms, they might as well selling eggs door to door,” Simon be in Lancashire – or some other recalls. But business was tough. mysterious, godforsaken country. “Batteries were on their way out, Because you’re at Bolster and the farm was past its sell-by Moor Farm Shop. Ground zero date. We’d started a small farm of ground pork. And you’re in shop off site, and realised this was touching distance of the best of the future.”

26 27 Trained as butchers, the pair catalyst they needed. From then “We're not wholesalers. We like the plied their trade across the county on, the race was on to bake the before hatching their retail best pie in the land. fact that if people want a Bolster plan. They secured planning “The recipe is the same today. permission for their new shop, Same lard, same flour, same meat. Moor pie, they have to come to at the heart of their family farm, But we have made it a little more in 2009, and it was an instant peppery,” Simon says of the pies Bolster Moor.” success. that have since gone on to win Now the farm, run by Simon’s competition after competition. middle son, is a healthy operation “What we’ve got better at is the too, with over 200 cattle. But bake, making it consistent, and the business end is here, in the producing our pork in such a way stone-and-timber farm shop, that the fat content keeps it moist its butchers’ counter a whirr of without leaking out and ruining sharpening steels, white-aproned the case.” chaps cleaving short rib and What’s not changed, however, sirloin and, gleaming like a star is Bolster Moor’s belief that if cluster, Bolster Moor’s counter you bake it right, they will come. of baked-that-morning, freshly Soft on the inside, crispy on the glazed pies. out, packed with punchy flavour “We built our business on throughout. our meat. We knew we were the “We’re not wholesalers. We best. But we bought in our pies, like the fact that if people want and that was what was letting us a Bolster Moor pie, they have to down,” Simon recalls. come to Bolster Moor,” Simon So he set to work. “We says. And they do – the shop bought a pie stamper, had a few shifts over 1,000 of the individual experiments, and spoke to friends pies on a Saturday morning. who were competing in the Great What makes a great Yorkshire Yorkshire Pork Pie competition,” pork pie? It starts with the meat. he says. “The biggest difference is that “He gave us some valuable tips, we cure our meat. When you cut we created a pie we were happy into it, the pork is a nice pink, with. So we thought, why don’t unlike the grey meat of a Melton we enter?” Mowbray,” Simon says. It’s a dash They did. And they came of saltpeter that keeps the colour second. bright. The competition attracted “We also add a little seasoning around 300 entries, from over into our jelly, and our pastry is 60 butchers. Many of whom had different too. Melton pies use a been baking pork pies man and lot more fat, up to 50 per cent boy. Simon and Andrew were up more,” he says. and running. The result is a pie that can stay “We had our picture taken for crisper for longer. But, Simon the local rag. From that Monday believes, at a cost. “A Melton to the following Friday, our pie Mowbray pie can have a shelf life business doubled.” of four or five days. I wouldn’t sell The runner’s up prize was the you a pie that old. Ours are baked

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Discount subject to availability. Normal terms & conditions apply. Bookings are recommended. Please quote BITTEN DISCOUNT when booking. 28 29 to be eaten that day.” Which is just as well, really, as they don’t hang around. “Yorkshire is a real pork pie stronghold,” Simon says. “There’s not many areas in the country where they’re as important. A butcher friend of mine in Wales will go through 500 faggots on a Monday. We don’t make faggots. In Scotland it’ll be haggis. We don’t make them either. We’re a pork pie county, and as long as it stays that way, we’ll be alright.” And sausages – they make a tonne and a half of their award winning bangers every week too. “Competition is fierce,” Simon admits. “I knew we had to make ours the best they could be. I’d go to competitions, and learn from the winners. You see the same people in the reckoning year after year. A lot of butchers don’t want to learn. They think the competitions are a stitch up. But we weren’t like that. We’d take it on the chin, go back to the drawing board until we had a sausage that we were proud of. How can you get better if you think you know it all?” Simon hunted down Wolverhampton’s master sausage maker, Michael Kirk, who told him that, when it comes to a champion sausage, it was all about the details. That any decent butcher can make the top ten. But only those prepared to really finesse the finer points of meat, spices and texture can challenge the best of the best. Uniquely, the meat in a pork pie Traditionally, the pastry case “In a good sausage, or a good is raw. Unlike shortcrust pies, was little more than a container pie, everything’s got to come The where the meat is cooked and (it’s why the wooden pie moulds together just right,” Simon says. you’re merely baking the pastry, were called coffins.) Both pastry “You can have the best meat in Inside the pork pie needs a good long and jelly weren’t made to be the world, but if your spices aren’t bake to reach the temperature eaten, but to merely preserve the right, or if the fat leaks out and Story needed to thoroughly cook the meat and keep it moist. “You’d makes your bottom soggy, you’re meat too. break the pastry off, it was there nowhere.” “The pork pie is like an oven,” to stop the oxygen getting to the And nowhere, for Bolster Simon says. And in a big pie, you meat,” Simon says. Moor, just wasn't an option. might have a pound and a half of Which is why, now, this blustery meat. The hole lets the steam out, Bolster Moor Farm farm shop isn’t just on the map. and allows you to add the gravy Golcar, Huddersfield It’s the place where all roads lead. later.” bolstermoorfarmshop.co.uk

30 31 In association with Deliveroo

Driven By Us Deliveroo’s route to our hearts and hungry stomachs has been nothing short of sensational. So where do they go from here?

t’s hard to remember a time before only the best makes the cut. “Over time, we’re IDeliveroo. Who knew we’d fall so deeply for constantly adding venues, but only the very their ingeniously simple, paradigm-shifting best local independents and chains we trust, take on home delivery. Well, they did, for one. such as Wagamama and Byron,” Dan explains. “That was the plan,” says Deliveroo’s Dan And, naturally, it’s the indies like Liverpool’s Fruhman. “We fell in love with the idea, and Lucha Libre, Manchester’s Solita and Leeds’ we thought, if we have, others will. It just Red’s True BBQ. becomes part of your life.” And they’re listening to us, too. Finding out When we last met the Deliveroo guys what tickles our taste buds. and girls, they’d just arrived in Manchester “If a customer recommends a local (Liverpool and Leeds soon followed), and restaurant we currently don’t work with, for they’d convinced a couple of dozen of our sure we’ll go and check it out. We’ll eat there, favourite restaurants to take the plunge. They, and if we love it, it’s on the list, simple as that,” and we, have never looked back. he says. “We thought it would take a while for It’s this appetite for new flavours, new people to ‘get it’,” Dan says, “but what we routes to deliciousness that’s made Deliveroo found was just how receptive customers so dependable – meal after meal. And their quickly became.” curiosity to try new things never wavers – The recipe’s the same – your favourite they’re building up their fleet of cycle couriers THE PIE-oFF food, delivered hot and fresh in around 30 too: “They’re quick, green, easy to park up, minutes. They’re tweaking their logistics and often they’ll beat a car to your door in the and working on making it faster. “We’re city centre.” constantly pushing to get sub 30, even maybe Got a spare evening, a bike you need to 20 minutes,” says Dan, “but ultimately, it’s road test, and fancy earning a few quid? Then about adding the best local restaurants, and Deliveroo want to talk to you: (visit making sure we deliver on our promises.” www.deliveroo.co.uk/apply). Now, with over 100 of our favourite “Yes, our growth has been fantastic, “Dan The Pie Manchester restaurants online, and a similar says, “But ultimately, we’re still as passionate number in Liverpool and Leeds (and an as ever to ensure people enjoy the very best increasingly broad sweep of their suburbs too, food, whether that’s a healthy salad or a filthy including South Liverpool, Didsbury and the burger, whenever they want. Headingley area of Leeds), the whole concept They remain, in short, as hungry, and Premier League of home delivery has shifted a gear or two. as driven as they ever did. As a result, they “What’s happened is that we’ve created a could be sorting out your hunger, and driving whole new marketplace,” Dan reflects. “It’s straight to your door in the next half an hour. a chance for people who didn’t order food Get the wine chilled. A pie, a pint and a match. It’s a holy trinity that makes a chilly February in delivery, because of the bad rep the whole sector had, to enjoy their favourite food, at the stands almost bearable. We sent Jamie Bowman out into the away end to their place.” Deliveroo It’s a no compromise approach that ensures www.deliveroo.co.uk rate the best pitch-side pies in the north.

32 33 iverpool FC’s recent Lannouncement regarding match day hospitality in their new Main Stand raised more than a few eyebrows among the seasoned supporters of the beautiful game. From the eye watering prices (packages start from £2,900) to the name of the new sports bar (‘The Anfield Dugout’) alarm bells were already ringing before the promise of a “vibrant mix of complimentary street food” sealed the deal. "THERE ARE FEW While some fans will undoubtedly lick their lips at the thought of “vibrant Asian”, I’m sure I won’t be alone in wondering where this leaves the most essential of half THINGS MORE time snacks: the pie. Thankfully, the wonderful Pie Hole at WHO Homebaked, over the road, is set to be a more permanent fixture than, say, whoever happens to be BRITISH THAN managing them as we go to press. ATE There are few things more British than consuming a pie in order to keep warm during those bleak Tuesday nights and CONSUMING A PIE as a football reporter based in the ALL North West for the last decade, I’ve come to regard their life- saving properties as a nigh on essential part of my working day. TO KEEP WARM THE Sadly, as the Reds’ example proves, the humble pie’s status isn’t what it was and these days most grounds will only sell mass produced brands such as those ON THOSE BLEAK PIES made by Shire, Peter’s and the ubiquitous Pukka. Actually, talking of Pukka, Rotherham United’s pie-loving supporters TUESDAY NIGHTS" ? hold the record for the most pies consumed at a match: with consumption 40% above the Football League average. And it was at their Millmoor ground that It’s up there will all those knotty the Pukka Pie first hit the fan. conundrums, like solving the P But dig deep throughout the versus NP problem, or figuring footballing pyramid and you’ll out a universal theory of find a few juicy gems to satiate everything. Because many have that freezing feeling only some asked, but the question remains: hot meat can remedy. So here’s Who ate all the pies? a rundown of a few of the home The inquisitive interjection’s wins on offer at our local football grounds. still something of a rallying cry from the stands of the British football ground. But why? The history of pies in football goes back further than you might 2 3 4 5 6 7 think. According to The Penguin 1 Book of Cliches, the question Morecambe Ramsbottom United Manchester City Everton Blackburn Rovers Glossop North End Frickley Athletic was first posed from the terraces of Sheffield United, when their Consistently voted the best I cut my football reporting teeth Disproving my theory is mega Another Premier League bright Although I’m quite partial to Evo Stick North Div One club Frickley Athletic play in the supporters chanted “who ate pies in the league, League Two following Marine FC around rich Manchester City whose spot is at Goodison Park where Rovers’ Balti pies and they look Glossop North End has enjoyed small town of South Elmsall in all the pies?” during the 1894 Morecambe’s savouries have the frozen north and during that pies are easily the best in the Everton’s pies are made by after visiting journalists well, it’s some big days out in recent years, the shadow of the site of one of season. become legendary amongst time enjoyed a variety of culinary Premier League – and at £4, the East-Lancashire based Clayton to neighbouring Leaver’s Bakery reaching Wembley twice in the the largest coal mines in the UK, The object of their enquiry connoisseurs. Supplied by local horror stories (sorry Nantwich). most expensive too. Bringing Park Bakery who also supply where pie lovers head. Leaver’s final of the FA Vase. Each time the scene for major disturbances was their own goalkeeper, the firm Potts, the Shrimpers decided But more often than not, the in Fabulous Fan Fayre – a Oldham Athletic and Rochdale. have been around for over 100 local award winning Mettricks during the strikes, and one of the fabulously rotund William "Fatty" to bring their pie making in house lower down the leagues you company linked to Jamie Oliver Three choices including years and have proved a beacon Butchers have turned their pork last to return to work. The club’s Foulke, who weighed over 21 and gave the job to Graham tumble, the better and cheaper is – has proved to be a winner at ‘Goodison’ Steak, Chicken for generations of football fans pies blue to match their team’s Westfield Lane ground retains stone – a Guinness Book of Aimson who quickly turned lowly the pie. Northern Premier League the Etihad Stadium. The Beef and Gravy and Scouse ensure a visiting Ewood Park. Meat and kit and donated a percentage of some of that defiant mood with its Records entry for the heaviest Morecambe into the must visit Ramsbottom is a typical example Bourguignon pie is a particular decent feed. Website Pierate has potato pies are the speciality but the sales to the club. Their meat windswept bleakness and fervent ever footballer. Since then, the ground for pie lovers. Highlights of the good value to be found in treat with its mixture of tender moaned about the apparently the great service from the lovely and potato pies, which are also atmosphere. Food is purchased sport’s taken the chant as its include the chicken, ham and leek non league. Extra marks too for beef, button mushrooms, a red disappointing meat-to-gravy ladies behind the counter is the sold at the club’s Derbyshire from the strangely named ‘Big own, with ex-Newcastle United pie and a meat and potato pie that serving tea in real mugs which are wine jus and delicate herbs. I kid ratio, but there was no such real proof in the pudding. ground have won the football Fellas Snack Bar’, where copious frontman, Liverpool-born Mick is akin to a Lancashire hot pot then collected by a lady walking you not. shortcomings with ours. pie category at the British Pie peas, gravy, mint sauce and chips encased in pastry. Wonderful. the ground during the match. Awards. are slopped into your tray with a Quinn using the phrase as the substantial pie for under £4. title of his autobiography.

34 35 In association with Pho THE PIE-oFF Life of Pie

Super Bowl When one couple fell in love on holiday, it was the start of a very tasty adventure for all of us. It was the start of our passion for all things Pho.

hat feeling you have, when street food restaurant – Pho, in and hangovers,” Jules says. today as we’ve ever been.” Tyou discover your new Clerkenwell, London. This was That’ll be because it’s the Isn’t it lovely when a holiday favourite thing in the world back in 2005, when street food original slow food – the source love affair blossoms into ever? For Pho founders, Stephen was a concept as alien to us as the broth, made from a good bone something deep and meaningful? and Juliette Wall, it wasn’t flavoursome broth. stock, bubbles away for 12 to 15 enough to just tell their friends. Now there’s an industrious hours, concentrating the flavours phocafe.co.uk They wanted to spread the family of Pho dotted around the until they become lip-smackingly word: they’d fallen in love with land. We can enjoy two near to delicious. And healthy too – with Vietnamese food. us: in Leeds’ Trinity Kitchen, rice the main carbohydrate, their It was during their year spent and Manchester’s re-energised menu’s naturally gluten free. And Pho Leeds travelling the world that the pair Corn Exchange. Each one as hardly any dairy is used either. Trinity Kitchen, first tasted the flavour-packed authentic as the last. “This is no Add to that a sociable array Leeds, LS1 5AY broth that is pho: an aromatic and fusion Asian affair,” says Pho’s of sharing platters for starters 0113 834 5029 delicious rice noodle soup served co-founder, Jules Wall. “It’s – try the divine crispy spring with a side plate of fresh herbs to authentic Vietnamese food.” rolls or the made-in-house pork Opening Times add as you please. Wherever they “It’s not surprising how well and lemongrass meatballs – or Monday to Thursday travelled, their thoughts kept we’ve taken to it,” she adds. “It’s the crunchy salads made with 11:30am - 9pm returning to those street-food just so wonderful!” shredded chicken, peanuts or Friday to Saturday stalls where they’d perch on a pair We’ve not yet fallen quite as dried shrimp. 11:30am - 9:30pm of high stools, in Ho Chi Minh deeply as the Vietnamese people “My favourite? The spicy Sunday City, savouring the country’s – who enjoy pho for breakfast, brisket pho. It’s packed with 11:30am - 6pm national dish. lunch and dinner. But, lured by tender beef pulled off the bone, “This is the best thing we’ve the infinite varieties of the dish, served with extra chilli paste, and ever eaten,” they agreed. “We we’re getting there: and we’re I also like sharing starters with Pho Manchester have to take this home with us.” learning what makes the perfect friends,” Jules says. Unit 15, The Corn Exchange, 37 But, whereas you or I might pho for us. A little more salt If you’re in Manchester, you Hanging Ditch,

come home and promptly dismiss from the fish sauce? A dash of have to try the cocktails too – Manchester, M4 3TR Mirror Trinity our holiday resolutions as nothing lime? More coriander? A kick of mixed with premium imported 0161 464 9779 more than impractical, sun- garlic? Pho’s adaptability makes Vietnamese rice wine. They’re induced fantasies, Stephen and it the ultimate comfort food – dangerously addictive. Opening Times Juliette were built of sterner stuff. whatever mood you’re in, there’s “All we wanted to do was share Monday to Saturday Alice Whitehead lifts the pie lid on one of the country’s oldest – and quirkiest – They quit their jobs, and poured a pho for you. our passion for this incredible 12pm - 11pm their life savings into opening “It’s warming, filling, healthy, cuisine,” Jules says. “We’re as Sunday food awards and finds out what it takes to be a true pork pie connoisseur. Britain's first Vietnamese and it’s even said to cure colds committed to spreading the word 12pm - 10:30pm

36 37 including 2015 (see p26) . embracing them. “Freshness,” says Peter “Anything can go in the “We'd like to Nice as pie? categorically. “They’re all served Artisan category as long as it at room temperature so they starts with pork,” says Peter, shake the Award winning pie makers need to be crisp and firm. Then, though he draws the line at reveal how they like theirs. they’re scored on appearance, pickled onion. “You can’t have awards up a and while I don’t mind gravy pickled onion in a pie. On the “Every butcher has their own stains or burnt bits, other judges side it’s very nice, but inside, it’s bit. Tastes are unique recipe and when you see do.” just not right.” a table full of them, you might The quality of the jelly – made changing and think they all look the same – but by boiling down gelatinous parts Slice of the pie it’s not just about appearances. of the pig such as the trotters we're thinking For me, a good pie is nice and and skin and injecting it into the But there are other changes in solid, with no air in the meat pie – is part and parcel of their the pork pie pipeline. “We’d like it's time to and no gaps down the side, with moreishness. to shake the awards up a bit,” a good ratio of meat to pastry,” “It should have a thin layer says Peter. “Tastes are changing says Richard Grange, of E&R all the way through, and a and we’re thinking it’s time to encourage Grange Butchers, Slaithwaite. crisp pastry case,” says Peter. encourage more amateur pie “Medium to coarse ground meat makers to have a go.” more amateur “The pastry is very personal with a little spice is good, as long The Society is even toying too – some like it short, ours is as it’s not too overpowering. The with the idea of stepping outside pie makers to crisp – and we’ve tried all sorts key is that it’s tricky to make, but the confines of the pub snug, to of flavours (black pudding and it doesn't look like it!” Indeed, a host a festival of pies outdoors. have a go.” Stilton, apple and stuffing) but medal-winning pork pie can be They may even consider female the traditional ones are always as hard as a devilish consommé members. the best seller.” to cook. “We don’t currently have “Only I know the recipe for our “It takes a lot to get the right any lady members, but we’d pork pies and when Robinson’s technique,” affirms Richard love some,” says Peter. “That original baker left, he wouldn’t Grange, from E&R Grange said, the women tend to sit in a give out his recipe due to it butchers in Slaithwaite, an early different corner and only join being very good, so I had to entrant in the awards and this in when we’ve stopped talking create my own from scratch” year’s winner in the Artisan about pies!” says Jane Robinson, head baker category. “Get the jelly wrong So does he or his fellow judges at Robinson’s Farm Shop, a and it can go right to the top ever get sick of pie eating? “No, former Pork Pie Award finalist. like a swimming pool, and the we only have one a week, and at “I like mine slightly warm but hot water crusts needs good the awards, it’s just a thin sliver just cool enough that the jelly measurement too. Some do a of each pie,” says Peter. “The full boil crust – where they boil rule is to never start off hungry has set.” the lard in water and add it to as you’ll end up eating them all. “We make a range with Scotch the flour, others just par-boil the The reason we have so many bonnet chilli jam, mixed into the water and add this to the flour.” judges is because there’s so meat,” says John Green, director And Richard should know: he many pies!” at Wilson Butchers, Crossgate was a chef before he became a “Not many people look at pies – twice winners – and a butcher butcher. “Even with experience, in such a professional capacity,” since he was 13. “But, I’m not a fan of serving a pork pie with Trinity Mirror Trinity things can go wrong,” adds concludes Peter. “The standard Richard, who, like all pie makers of pies has really gone up over sauce as it masks the flavour is not prepared to reveal his the years – and I like to think – though I’m sure many of my s spectator sports go, pork get-together has grown into an known as the ‘fetcher’ and it prerequisite of entry, which ‘secret’ family recipe. “You’re that’s down to us!” customers would disagree!” Apie judging doesn’t have annual event that attracts bakers became a matter of pride as to means the pies hail mainly often left scratching your head the petrol-head thrill ride of and ‘pork pie fanciers’ from who could bring back the best from Yorkshire. But this wondering what you did to make Formula One, or the nail biting across the UK, and even the odd butcher’s shop pies – safely hasn’t stopped entrants from it slump or crack or spill out. backhand smashes of Centre celebrity chef. stored in an old tea chest. It Southampton and Scotland You’re always striving for the Court. So why do people put so much wasn’t long before talk turned to trying to get in on the act – perfect pie.” But at the annual Pork faith in the pie judging skills of quality. though they are rarely winners. Even celebrity chefs have Pie Awards, held at The Old this small band of pub punters “In the last half hour, “If a pork pie is in a car too long had to eat humble pie, it seems. Bridge Inn, in Ripponden, from Ripponden? It’s simply everyone would say a few words – the jelly just isn’t right,” says “When Brian Turner visited us West Yorkshire, there’s enough because they have their fingers about that week’s pies and score Peter. to make some on camera they passion, sportsmanship and in so many pies. them out of ten, and I noted this Each pie goes through three were wonderful – but I won’t competitive spirit to rival the Since the Society was founded down on the lid of the tea chest,” rigorous rounds and once the tell you their shortcomings out finest sporting fixture. in 1982 – when the Ripponden says Peter. “I guess you could say winners have been selected, of politeness! He knows that “It’s surprising that a bunch residents decided a workout at The Pie Appreciation Society there’s an auction of the best to practice makes perfect when it of men contemplating pork pies their new health club would be was born!” raise funds for charity – “I’ve comes to pork pies.” attracts such a big crowd, but best rounded off with a pie and seen a £1.50 pie go for as much Peter and his crew have there’s always a huge turn out,” pint at their local – Peter, now Earning a crust as £20” says Peter – and then the certainly tasted some clangers. affirms Peter Charnley, 66, Society secretary, and his male rest are served up with mushy “We once bought pies from founder member and pie judge buddies have eaten their way It was 10 years later, in a bid to peas. a market stall for 4 for a £1 at The Pork Pie Appreciation through 2,000-plus pork pies raise money for local charities, “It’s no good judging them at and they were so greasy we Society, which hatched the idea and have become (and quite that the Society hit upon the idea this stage – even a sub-standard considered using them as for the awards 23-years ago. rightly so) the self-appointed of an award event, and in 1992 pie will taste reasonable with a briquettes on the fire,’ says “But then again, it’s only here experts of this very British of encouraged 20 or so enthusiasts pile of mushy peas!” he adds. Peter. you can sample a slice of the skills. to enter their best bakes for At competition level, there’s winning entry – and get a side of “When we first started judging. Secrets of been ‘cathedral tops’ – The Pork mushy peas to go with it,” adds meeting, the pub didn’t serve Aside from Peter’s new laptop, success Pie Appreciation Society’s name Peter. food, so the wife of one lad used for compiling results (a 21st for lots of empty space below to pack him up with a pork pie,” century improvement on the tea So what makes a perfect pork the lid and ‘rat runs’ when the Pie high recalls Peter. “We all thought chest lid), the awards have little pie? Or at least, one as good as meat doesn’t fill the pastry case. this was wonderful and over changed. The pies continue to the undisputed current pork New fangled black pudding and Attracting nearly 40 entrants the following weeks offered to be judged on paper plates and pie champions, Bolster Moor chorizo didn’t past muster either and twice as many spectators buy pork pies for the group – it trestle tables alongside a pint of Farm Shop, Huddersfield, whose at first, but having seen their into a snug 14th century pub – became a Saturday night ritual.” local ale. butchers have scooped top prize growing popularity they’re now what started as a Saturday night The pie buyer soon became Freshness remains a seven times over the years,

38 39 Cinnamon

May reduce blood pressure, particularly in people diagnosed as pre-diabetic or type 2 diabetic. Kills off bacteria known to cause gum disease. Has shown an ability to stop medication-resistant yeast infections, and is a powerful antioxidant. Buy the Ceylon variety. Take a level teaspoon a day in a smoothie, or sprinkle into egg dishes.

Turmeric

A powerful anti-inflammatory, shown to be comparable to hydrocortisone. Helps us to ward off infection and the oxidative damage of free radicals. Has been shown to be effective for treatment for inflammatory bowel disease. Take a turmeric extract that contains significant amounts of curcumin, with black pepper, to the spices have been used for Soothing balm absorb more of the good stuff. Use centuries, even millennia, which powder in curries and stews. As well as period pain, herbs suggests that they’re pretty safe.” It is, however, all about quantity, and spices are often believed Fenugreek to be good for happy digestive she says. “One of the key points systems. Ginger is often drunk with spices is that they’re Its estrogen-like properties have as a tea for digestion, to reduce traditionally used in small been found to help lessen the bloating (similar to Peppermint). quantities. Large amounts in food common symptoms of menopause Cinnamon is often taken after a don’t tend to taste great, and heavy meal while in the Papyrus that’s a good guide. Regularly and PMS. Research studies show Ebers, Fenugreek is advised to using a wide variety of spices, that fenugreek consumption helps cleanse the stomach. Modern all in small quantities, gives a to reduce the level of low density day herbalists suggest it is good wide range of health benefits. Lipoprotein (LDL) cholesterol, and for those with stomach ulcers. The amounts you’ll get in food its fibre content helps prevent EAT THIS NOW Star Anise is meant to be good for can help you to stay healthy colonic inflammation. Seeds, wind and indigestion. – it’s a preventative measure. ground into a paste, may help with Some herbalists highlight To actually treat an existing skin complaints such as eczema. Cinnamon and Fenugreek for condition you may need far, far Roast the seeds for curries, use their capacity to reduce the blood more than is safe or even feasible the leaves in salads. sugar, good for those with type II to incorporate into the diet, and diabetes. However the jury’s still that’s when to get professional Ginger out, with some studies showing advice from a properly qualified The Spice of Life a drop in blood sugar in line with herbalist or nutritional therapist.” May relieve nausea, seasickness prescription meds, but others and stomach cramps. Has warning of contra-indications Drink Up been shown to be effective Can Turmeric really improve your memory? Is Ginger good for osteoarthritis? Some when using the Chinese variety treatment for morning sickness. (the most commonly found in To add more Turmeric, Ginger In a controlled trial, people with supermarkets here). It certainly and even Fenugreek make your herbs and spices make some fairly lofty claims about their health benefits. We take osteoarthritis of the knee who isn’t recommended for those own herbal tea using seeds or took ginger extract had less pain five, Turmeric, Ginger, Cinnamon, Fenugreek and Star Anise to see if they can make a with liver problems and the two powdered form. It’ll give you a shouldn’t be taken together. little of the herb to do you good. and required less pain medication. difference to your health and, if so, how to eat more of them. If you don’t like tea but are into May reduce blood sugar levels. A pinch of spice? smoothies add a sprinkling of Has also been found to reduce the Spice girl: Laura Brown Illustrations: Poppy Palin ground spice to your morning symptoms of menstrual pain. Buy So, armed with all this conflicting mash up. it fresh, and peel and grate into information, what do we do? Turmeric can be added to almost smoothies, or bake with fish. How far should we take centuries any vegetable dish. Roasted Ancient scripts in Ayurvedic medicine since as phase 1 clinical trial tested the cut inflammation in the gut, old recommendations for spices cauliflower, tossed in Turmeric Star Anise early as 4,000 BC while in China active ingredient in Turmeric, associated with cancer. More as fact, with our more scientific before being put in the oven with a little olive oil, adds a yellow hue Much of the herbalist and seeds that were probably used Curcumin, giving it to 25 patients research is needed, but these are approach to medicine in modern Contains a precursor to the and spicy warmth. nutritional understanding for herbalism have been found with precancerous changes promising results. times? There is, says Natalia antiviral medication known as Cinnamon can be sprinkled on of the capacity of herbs and in sites dating from the Shang in different organs. The study Ginger, as an anti-inflammatory Kerkham, some real rubbish Tamiflu. Taken in combination with cereal, add on toast or use as an spices in medicines comes Dynasty. seemed to show that Curcumin is also good for those who have on the Internet. Instead, for quercetin, a plant-based nutrient, alternative to sugar. from Chinese, Ayurvedic and could stop the precancerous cold hands, says medical herbalist those who are interested she it significantly ramped up immune Star Anise’s rich aniseed Egyptian tradition. The practice Super Spice changes from becoming cancer. and nutritional therapist Natalia recommends reading trusted function to resist viral infections. flavour is often used in Chinese of herbalism – using plants There are also lower rates of Kerkham from Warrington. “I use authors; The Encyclopedia of Helps target, and control, anti- cooking (it’s one of the five and seeds for their supposed If traditional Chinese or cancer in countries where a lot ginger as a circulatory stimulant Herbal Medicine (DK Natural oxidants, which can damage cell spices in Chinese five spice). It’s therapeutic properties – dates Ayurvedic medicine are to be of curcumin is eaten over a long to get the circulation right out to Health) by Andrew Chevallier, function. Known to have antifungal surprisingly good with carrots, back over 5,000 years. believed (and who are we to say period of time. Another study, the edges – great for people with The Ayurveda Bible by Anne goes well with mackerel and, properties, warding off Candida In the Papyrus Ebers, for they aren’t?) then Turmeric and published in Cancer Prevention cold hands and feet, for example. McIntyre and The Complete for those with a sweet tooth, the flare ups. Peps up a pork casserole example, which dates from Ginger Root do a lot more than Research, gave 30 healthy adults In my experience it can also be Medicinal Herbal: A Practical ground version goes well with a treat. 1550 BC, there’s information add colour and flavour to meals. 2 grams of powdered Ginger Root useful for period pain, especially Guide to the Healing Properties dark chocolate. on over 850 plant medicines. Both have been shown to help (with a placebo for control) for if it’s the sort that’s better for a of Herbs by Penelope Ody. Turmeric has been used in India prevent cancer in studies. A four weeks. The Ginger helped hot water bottle”. Is it dangerous? “No indeed! All

40 41 STEP BY STEP HOW TO

MAKE THE

PERFECT PASTRY

42 43 We've spoken to the experts, to make you a pastry chef to be proud of. Laura Fell puts her pinny on. Illustrations by Tom Bingham.

At various times, in various northern motorway junctions, you might notice that someone has scrawled ‘Vote for Pies’ across a motorway bridge. Sadly, 7 it’s not a public proclamation of the love of the pastry dish (it’s a band, immortalised in a Gomez If you’ve had to take song, and Alexei Sayle book), 4 pies off the menu but if it was, it would make more because you’ve sense. Because nothing says embraced veganism 10 homecoming more than being At Pie & Ale, instead of using welcomed at the front door by the butter, Kevin will use vegetable smell of a home-cooked pie. shortening. It’s important to note Wonderfully versatile, Making, and attaching, that if you’re using vegetable shortcrust is the perfect partner shortening then you’ll need to add Finishing off to sweet and savoury pies. So a lid more water to the pastry, because we asked Peter Kellet (who co- it doesn’t have the same liquid a pie owned J B Richardson’s Bakery Given that your pastry scraps have already content as butter. Unfortunately, in Chorlton), Jamie Dargie (head this will sacrifice the flavour of an chef at Abel Heywood), and Kevin been worked once, using them for the pastry all butter pastry, so you’ll really Both Kevin and Jamie Rivers (head chef at Pie & Ale), to have to make sure that the flavour share their pastry prep list. lid will make the lid of your pie tougher, which of your filling is truly exquisite. recommend a simple is a desirable outcome. Once you’ve worked No pressure. egg wash, as it will give 1 3 the pastry for your lid, glaze your rim with your pie a gloriously egg wash. Then unroll your pastry, using a 8 golden finish. If you rolling pin, over your pie. You’ll need to trim would prefer to finish Cold hands and a warm heart make the best Take a break before you off any excess pastry and then crimp the pastry If your pie gets into a your pie with flare, pastry bit of trouble This might be an old wives’ tale, together, so that edges stay firmly sealed. Slice When you’re making your pastry you can also sprinkle but there is truth behind it. If your get back to flaunting mix, you can add more flour, or hands are too warm then the fat in a hole in the pastry lid, so compressed steam a bit more water if it’s necessary. herbs, or nuts, over your pastry mix is more likely to your pastry moves doesn’t bust your pie. But, once it’s in the oven, it’s a your pie. Or, you can melt, which would result in your lot more challenging to rescue a mix becoming too greasy. Ideally, pie. This is when the ‘warm heart’ create decorative the area you’re working in should Once you’ve kneaded your pastry, wrap part of the old wives’ tale comes also be cool, but that can be rather it in cling film, and put it in the fridge for into play, as it’s paramount that shapes with your unpleasant if you like to feel you give your pastry the time, and scrap pastry. Peter movement in your hands. around 20-30 minutes. This will allow the 5 6 care, it needs in order to succeed. gluten in the flour to relax, which will help recommends making your pastry roll with ease. Once you’ve taken a pastry leaf: begin 2 A GOOD PIE SHOULDN'T Altering the flavour 9 the pastry out of the fridge, you’ll want to have a soggy bottom of your pastry by making a diamond leave it until it warms to room temperature. Jamie recommends that the first If you’re feeling more creative, shape with the pastry, Beat it, don’t cut it step is to ensure that your pastry changing the flavour of your Don’t be afraid to mix is correct, as excess moisture pastry can turn out wonderfully. Most recipes will recommend make mistakes then pinch one end When you’re rolling out your pastry, keep in your pastry mix will only lead However, Kevin says it’s that you cut up the fat, then you By making mistakes, you’ll begin to a soggy bottom. Equally, if important to remember that add the flour, and then you create moving it regularly, as this will reduce the to truly understand how to make of the diamond. To you’re using a lot of vegetables, adding certain ingredients, like breadcrumbs by rubbing the pastry. It will take time, but you’ll or ‘wetter’ ingredients, it’s cheese, will alter the bake of finish, knock out flour and the fat together. This, risk of the pastry sticking, and it’ll also help learn to recognise when you’ve important to dry them out as the pie, as the cheese is likely to according to Peter, is wrong. The added too much water, or if much as possible. It’s also vital cook quicker than the pastry. If the diamond, with fat should be beaten as much as ensure that your pastry keeps an even shape. you’ve worked the pastry for too that your pie is not overfilled, you’re making a meaty pie, Peter possible, so it becomes soft, and long. Making shortcrust pastry the back of a knife, Don’t work it for too long. If you overwork as this will also alter the crust of recommends using lard, instead then the flour should be added. will eventually become as natural your pastry. Blind baking, when of butter, as it’s more likely to By beating the fat, rather than to you as riding a bike. Of course, to create leaf-like it you’ll weaken the gluten, which will turn the pastry is cooked at a high enhance the flavours of the meat. cutting it, it’ll create the desired unlike riding a bike, making temperature before the filling is imprints. It really is as softness in the pastry. It’ll also your delicious pastry into a dry, and rather delicious pastry probably won’t added, can also reduce the risk of help limit the risk of shrinkage, as increase the chances of you fitting your pastry going soggy. easy as pie. there will be more air in your mix. disappointing affair. into those jeans.

44 45 In association with Emporia Brands

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46 47 In association with Living Ventures SPIRIT GURU Drinks of the Year What strange and exotic specimens will we be sipping throughout 2016? Here are a few Treat your Mum of the unusual suspects. to Prosecco Afternoon Tea in the SkyLounge on Mother’s Day £24.95

nother year, another list of think that’s quite peaked yet, and the grown-up traditional classics, ever-changing NHS alcohol Athe year’s must-drink spirits with the revival of traditionally like a straight-up martini. And recommendations. People are and cocktails. If you’ve been in brewed Czech pilsners, there’s we’re still experimenting with starting to realise that you can the business long enough, you some life in that sector yet. bitter and herbal tastes. have a delicious, refreshing know these things have a habit Spirits-wise, this year I’d say We’re changing all our menus cocktail or two without the need of coming around in circles. But you should look to tequila and in the coming months, and we’re for spirits. it’s still enjoyable to see what’s whisky – especially Irish whiskey. definitely mixing things up a bit. Team that with a few exotic getting people excited and They’ve been talking up Irish We’re talking to food suppliers fruits and it almost becomes a where the buzz in the industry is whiskey for a few years now, about importing strange and nutritious smoothie. happening. but I think this is the year it will exciting new fruits and herbs, Well, almost. Last year, it was all about the really make some noise. Tequila especially those from Japan and gin. It absolutely exploded in too – as people catch on to the the east, to infuse our drinks with 2015, with over 260 new brands spirit’s softer, more mature side, dramatically different tastes, and THE GURU DoubleTree by Hilton Manchester Piccadilly released. Figures like that are just and start sipping rather than curious-looking slices of weird Dave Ray knows a thing or two 1 Piccadilly Place, 1 Auburn Street, Manchester M1 3DG T: 0161 242 1000 unsustainable, and gin really has slamming, it’ll really come into and wonderful fruits. People are a about premium spirits, and the had its time in the sun now. So its own. We will be increasing lot more prepared for trying new cocktails that make them sing. we’ll see a rationalisation of all our selection in The Alchemist, things out these days. Working for one of North West those boutique brands, and only Australasia and Manchester See also the trend in cocktails England's most successful those with enough money for House. using beer, or cider as the base restaurant and bar companies, marketing will still be here at the In general, our tastes are alcohol, some which you can Living Ventures, Dave always end of this year. maturing somewhat, and we’re already find at The Botanist has to be at the top of his game A trend that’s set to stay is the moving away from the sickly – it’s a move away from the – tasting and trailing the latest craft beer and ales fad. I don’t sweet cocktail, and more towards heavy ABVs, in line with the trends. It's a tough job.

48 49 In association with Living Ventures Jasmine Beef Ribs BEER GURU Our Modern Bangkok dishes offer a contemporary take on the flavours and culinary traditions of Thailand – allowing our chefs to show off for you a little. These Jasmine Beef Ribs are marinated in chilli, coriander, ginger and Jasmine tea before being cooked over a glowing hot robata grill, which is specifically Black Watch designed to seal in the flavour and tenderness. Dramatic and delicious. book now Busaba.com Time to face the black stuff. It’s grown awfully sophisticated since you’ve been away.

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Advertise with us Each issue, Bitten goes the extra mile to seek out the amazing amongst us. We'd love you to get in touch, and let’s see how we can bring your story to our readers. We’ve lots of ways for you to reach our followers: from display ads to custom bespoke adverts, advertorials, travel features or competitions. Talk to us. or a time, we were lead to complex, intriguing and endlessly British brewers were banned which finds room for high quality Fbelieve that stout was, indeed fascinating new style. from using the term ‘milk stout’. Valrhona cocoa nibs and salted good for us. The dark beer’s had Kent’s Mackeson’s was the first Incidentally, Guinness didn’t caramel. Rich, balanced and more of a history of spin than to add lactose, a dairy sugar, and get away with their claims – their smooth it’s everything a dessert Email our sales team: [email protected] Or call us: (0844) 576 0811 your average parliamentary a by-product of cheese-making, oft-cited assertion that the brew stout shout be. Sweet, savoury personal advisor. whey, into the copper stills during was rich in iron was also found to and lip smackingly moreish. But, spin aside, I can report the boil. These weren’t allowed be somewhat wide of the mark. Try it with a wedge of chocolate that this venerable, dark and to ferment down, so remained Over the years, the strength of cake. We serve them both at the treacly brew is back – and it in the finished product, lending Mackesons, and stout in general, Oast House, the Club House in tastes better than ever. a full-bodied, oily mouth-feel to has fluctuated, but it’s never Liverpool, and our Leeds and Traditionally a dark beer made the bottled stout. And a sweet really hit the heights of the 7 or Manchester Botanists. using roasted malt or roasted creaminess that we began to take 8 percent ABV brews of old. Yet, barley (barley that’s not been to our hearts. the assumption remains that this allowed to germinate, or ‘malt’) These milk by-products gave dark concoction is a filling, hearty the brew used to be a generic their name to this new breed drink. term for strong (stout simply of beer – Milk Stout. And Not a bit of it. These days, means ‘strong’ in this case) before long, the drink was being exciting new microbreweries THE GURU porter-style beers. marketed as being ‘nutritious’. It are breathing new light, and In the 18th century, the porter was about this time that the stout new flavours into the most My name is Warren McCoubrey and style was typically brewed to family split – as, over in Ireland, misunderstood of beers. Try I'm Beer Guru at Living Ventures, 7 or 8 percent. But later, as the sweet stuff never really made Colorado’s Left Hand Brewery’s choosing the beers for our different more complex chains of sugar its mark. There, it was always Milk Stout (the US didn’t impose brands and passing on my passion were allowed to develop in about the ‘dry’ porter style a ban on the M word), which is a to staff and customers. I’m in the lucky position to be trying new the fermenting process, these stout, as typified by Guinness, dark and delicious evocation of beers from breweries old and new residual sugars would become Murphy's and Kilkenny. brown sugar and vanilla cream, on a regular basis and would like to But trouble was brewing. It with hints of roasted coffee. Pure, dextrose – imparting a real share my findings with you on this sweetness into the finished ale, soon became clear that, despite unadulterated bliss. page. I've worked in the bar trade and ABVs began to tumble. the marketing narrative, there And, from this side of the for over 15 years – but the amber In time, this simple, straight really wasn’t anything nutritious pond, The Wild Beer Co.’s nectar business has never looked up brew matured into a really about the milk stout, and so Millionaire – a velvety cocoon (or tasted) better.

50 51 Travel

For a while, floatation tanks Venezuelan taxi driver £500 morning when I open my curtains homespun distillery), I meet seemed to promise the answer. worth of Bolivars? Do those there’s another tumbledown the passengers who will be my In the 80s, there was a brief Caribbean Emerald cufflinks village, golden arc of sand or dining companions for the week. flirtation, usually in clinics look like a real steal at $800?) busy port to explore. And I didn’t They’re an eclectic and good above high street opticians, and having to plan my time by have to pack my bags, my hotel natured bunch, from Toronto, with their peculiar brand of means of a watch, and not a PA obligingly came along for the Norway and Essex. It’s not long sensory deprivation. Holed up announcement to be a real test ride. If you’re going to go on tour, before we’re known as the noisy in a confined space, cut off from for my dormant higher brain don’t even think of travelling table. The noise being more Essex reality, no concept of time, no functions. “Take us back to without at least two masseuses, a than Oslo. And by the end of knowing which way is up. deck seven, and the Connect casino and a cabaret lounge. the cruise, hugs, kisses and the It went the way of vibrobelts 4 Tournament; they scream, On my first night, I meet obligatory swapping of emails and colour therapy (although when I try to make sense of a talk Anna and Susue, the ship’s confirms how well we bonded. probably still lingers in about the flora and fauna of the social hostesses – all smiles and Food manages to be both Skelmersdale). But the Atlantic Windward Isles. wisecracks, effortlessly putting delicious and instantly Ocean holds a memory of this I’d never been on a cruise us first timers at ease. Anna tells forgettable at the same time. out of body experience. Because before, so my bags were me that almost 40% of the ship’s Like some Hollywood summer cruising is, I suppose, its distant overpacked with preconceptions. 2,500 passengers are hooked franchise. Enjoyable enough Bananas in the Caribbean relative. Albeit a kindly one that, I’d thought of boredom, on cruising. She points out a to keep you happily distracted, increasingly, many of us are biliousness and Butlins at sea. 50-ish couple who are on their competent enough for you to happy to visit once a year. But, from day one, I realised that, 17th voyage. They don’t look come back for the sequel, but As Bitten discovers, a cruise holiday can be whatever you want it to be. You So it is, on day four of my eight once again, I’d packed the wrong especially mad. nothing that would make your day cruise around the islands things. As we set sail from end of year lists. can dive into exciting new cultures, swim in clear blue waters, explore lush of the southern Caribbean that Cosseted and cocooned, we’re Bridgetown Barbados (my Far better than the veloutes, I find daily activities like using whisked between islands under cabin clinking with bottles of carpaccios and Gressingham rainforests, or just brush up on your carpet bowls. David Lloyd sets sail. real money (did I just tip that cover of darkness so that, each Mount Gay rum, bought at the Duck Marco Polos at the Marco

52 53 Pierre White Ocean Grill was feel safer knowing a Viking’s at pain-au-chocolat. “I don’t think “I peer around the red snapper I had, simply the helm. He tells me that he’s we’ll bother getting off the ship barbequed on deck by a chap not only charged with the safe today,” says Pam and Ken. There my porthole who alternated gutting fish with deliverance of his ‘human cargo’, are general nods of agreement. knocking out ABBA tunes on a but the smooth running of an “Come on,” I say, like some curtains to see steel drum. Two proper life skills aquatic office block with over Su Pollard apologist, trying to we could all do well to sharpen up, 650 staff. chivvy them all into action, “It’s the jagged teeth I wager. “Modern cruise ships sail Margarita time!” Next morning, half asleep, I themselves” he says, darkly. From Manchester's drizzly of St Lucia's peer around my porthole curtains Another day, another island. runway, to this spot in the ocean, to see the jagged teeth of St Grenada. I know this because my fellow passengers have mountainous Lucia’s mountainous volcanic there’s a sign that says ‘welcome travelled 4,500 miles. The frenzy plugs, the Pitons loom large to Grenada’. I’d be hard pressed and excitement of Latin America volcanic plugs, on the horizon. I’m not quite otherwise. In the horseshoe is now just a taxi ride away. Yet, sure what I expected to see, but shaped port our ship nudges into unanimously, they all decide that I hadn't prepared myself for a space alongside other sleek a day spent on deck listening the Pitons something quite so beautiful, and white liners. From the air, the to Little Mix on the ship's PA is before breakfast. harbourside must look like Ken preferable to a little shore leave. loom large on We dock at Castries, the capital Dodd’s teeth. Trouble is, I’m beginning – a jumble of market stalls, As our ship disgorges its catch to know how they feel. We’re the horizon. I geezers selling weed, and tired of fresh, tasty tourists, there’s becoming like those amorphous old shacks doubling as ‘luxury nail a feeding frenzy of taxi drivers, intergalactic blob-families on hadn't prepared parlours’. Rows of streets where souvenir sellers and official tour Wall-E. But I don’t give in. I slap you can never quite tell if the guides, jostling for the juiciest on the factor 50 and step forward myself for breezeblock facades are half built, pickings. into a brave new continent. Over or half demolished. It’s not a place “Banana hat, sir” says a man a pina colada and tuna salad something quite that’s easy to love, or to linger creating headgear from the in the gritty town of Polamar in. Most cruisers head off on leaves of a banana tree. I give I write ‘noisy, infectious. Big so beautiful, and excursions into the island's lush him a look that says ‘I’m not like white church’. At this point in the heartland of steamy rainforest, or the others, I have integrity.’ cruise, writing full sentences is a before breakfast.” fan out in pincer like movements I wait until the frenzy dies neuron connection too far. to invade St Lucia’s beautiful lacy down and jump on the local The Dutch island of Curacao frill of beaches. bus, crammed with teenagers, and Aruba, visited on our final And beaches are what the their stereos beating out the two days, practically plead to be Caribbean does best. At Marigot infectious rhythm of reggae. explored. Bay, steep emerald hills rise The minibus’ bumper sticker Willemstad, the tiny, behind bright white sand, if it reads – Jah Will Provide, and prosperous-looking capital of wasn’t for the expensive yachts the soundtrack, the smiling Curacao is a delight. Rows of dotting the bay, this could be passengers and the sun makes gabled houses line its pocket Tahiti. me feel he already has. sized waterfront. They could The ship’s excursion team We shuttle immaculately be straight from an Amsterdam manages to squeeze every last dressed schoolchildren from canal scene – expect that they drop of activity from this tiny home to class. They smile look like they've been painted by island. Feeling active? There’s a and ask me where I’m from. someone who’s been chugging jeep safari and a trip to bubbling Liverpool, I say. ‘Steven back industrial strength acid. mud baths. Or how about a spot of Gerrard,’ they reply. No, Aruba, too, has been expecting snorkelling? There is, of course, Lukaku, I say, like a modern day us. There are the obligatory Tag plenty of opportunities to do missionary. Heuer, Gucci and Ralph Lauren Brussels: Not That Boring absolutely nothing, too. They’ve Midway through the at the gaudy Renaissance Mall a word for it in these parts, it’s week, inertia begins to but, unlike Grenada and St Lucia, called limin’. Or perhaps you settle. Thursdays’ port is the the spring cleaning doesn’t end Frites with mayonnaise, mussels approaching fine art in this bar, should you wish to simply it works. The dishes are simple could just force yourself to have a Venezuelan island of Margarita. at passport control. The whole (from Brussels), waffles and atmospheric, refined and two- pull up a stool and have a beer and and authentic, but the flavours glass of Piton beer, and indulge in Only it’s not a port, it’s a lone island looks fresh, polished and chocolate. Belgian food might not centuries-old Belgian bakers, snack, Belgian-style. are sharp and precise. In other some lager and limin’. jetty. The nearest town is a pruned. Even the headstones in immediately shout haute cuisine, with stores scattered across the Rue du Page 45 words, they know what they’re Tonight I meet the captain. thirty minute taxi ride away. the cemetery look like they’ve but a recent addiction to all things city. Coffee, ginger biscuits, cakes doing at this laid-back but food- A giant, smiling Norwegian. I There’s talk of mutiny over the been given a fresh coat of street food, a slew of inventive and, yes, waffles are elegant, light Fin de Siècle forward bar. emulsion. new chefs hawking their wares and always freshly baked. Karel Belgian food can tend towards 62 Place du Jeu de Balle I take an island tour – a ride in a in edgy new restaurants, Bulsstraat 14 maisondandoy.com the hearty and the filling. No bad local resident’s Jeep, much better and a constant simmering thing when it’s as comforting as Vismet than the organised excursion, battle between the city’s two Noordzee it gets at Fin de Siècle. Try their Elegant and pared-back, Vismet which shuttles you from tourist gastronomic tribes – the French No seats, but still an institution, classic sausage and stoemp (mash) eschews the interior design bells trap to tourist trap. We stop to and Dutch speaking cultures the Noordzee (Mer du Nord) coated in a rich, velvety sauce and whistles to concentrate pick cashew nuts from trees, take – adds a frisson to the Brussels serves up seafood to eat on the and you’ll be hooked. And, quite on simply great dishes of beef a sip of sweet cactus wine on her dining scene. Know where to look street, or take home. Try their possibly, unable to move for a tartare, or Poached filet of cod friend’s porch, and pick fresh and, quite possibly, you’ll enjoy fish soup – just the ticket on a while. Rue des Chartreux 9 with mousseline sauce. It’s a tight limes to slice into a G and T later some of Europe’s most ambitious cool winter’s day. Summer – the little menu, but they never put a on deck. and memorable cooking. shrimp cocktail with a glass of Belga Queen foot wrong in this handsome spot. Arriving back at the port champagne is just the ticket. One of Brussels’ most eye- 23 Place Sainte-Catherine I’m approached by another Maison Antoine Rue Sainte-Catherine 45 catching new restaurants. Belga banana-hat making man. I stare When there’s a queue, in Queen is housed in an opulent Henri and Agnes at the weaving and marvel at the Brussels, that only means one La Quincaillerie 18th century bank, furnished Vegetarianism isn’t what you’d craftsmanship. “I’ll take one,” I thing: this is a seriously great food Brussels’ clutch of Art Deco with striking modern art. Belgian call endemic in Belgium – so say, offering a fistful of currency I place. That Maison Antoine only buildings is world-class. Combine wines are teamed with shellfish, eeking out a good veggie spot never really had the time to get to does one thing – frites – that with a striking restaurant and Belgian Charolais tenderloin isn’t as easy as you’d hope. This grips with. means the chips here are among you’ve a hit on your hands. and seasonal specials, to a loyal new organic lunch isn’t totally When, later, I unashamedly the best you’ll get, anywhere. French classics, given a Belgian crowd. Wolvengracht 32 meat-free, but it does bring model the hat for my Ukrainian Place Jourdan, 1040 Etterbeek twist, sees mains such as Lamb vegetables to the fore: in hearty steward, I begin to realise that stew from the owner’s farm, Pin Pon stews, salads and soups. They’re I’ve been on this ship too long. Dandoy served with Madras curry, or They’re having fun at Pin Pon – known for their lip-smackingly But by then, it’s much too late. Waffles – that Belgian speciality gamey Bresse chicken with a always a dangerous thing to play good hotpots. With or without – are elevated to something sherry sauce. There’s an oyster with, when it comes to food. But chicken. 48 Rue Verones

54 55 Lancashire Satterthwaites Shropshire blue all cooked in a Hulsons Revived after the original creamy ale sauce. Good god. Something of a Mold institution, Shirley’s Pies Satterthwaites family threw in the Hulstons doesn’t tinker with its Traditional Lancashire pies with a oven gloves, and boy are we glad. 47 Lever Street, Manchester winning formula. The best pork reassuring, hand-made aesthetic. Crosby’s finest is still the one to pieandale.com pies in North Wales? We’ve yet A crisp pastry case hides generous beat. Try their Beef Wellington, to see a convincing arguments pork and apple, beef steak in red or their pork and black pudding against this Flintshire stalwart’s wine or maybe cheese, onion and and tell us we’re wrong. CHESHIRE claim. potato. Online ordering is, we hear, ‘on the way’. Coronation Road, Crosby Lord of the Pies 37 Wrexham Street, Mold satterthwaitesbakehouse.co.uk Hand made gourmet pies, such 2 The Old Coal Yard, Hallgate as pulled chicken balti, a creamily Swans Farm Shop Lane, Preesall Pearsons delicious (and award winning) Being marked down at an awards shirleyspies.com When you stick to doing one fish pie and a tremendous Beef do (where they more-or-less thing, and one thing only, you've and Blacksticks Blue Pie or the swept the board) for having too Halls Bakery every likelihood of doing it gourmet beef stew and potatoes. much meat in their pies, that’s the They call themselves the ‘Real brilliantly. New Ferry's Pearsons This is how you marry ancient and sort of ticking off any pie maker Pie Company’ and, in Chorlton, are the best pork pies in the modern – truly great work. would be proud of. Swans Farm that means one thing: butter pie. county. Hence this unassuming Shop is a treat: head for the steak This layered potato and onion store is our other favourite Branches in Stockport and and ale, and steak and stilton confection is a carb-loaded slice butchers' in New Ferry (Edge and Macclesfield pie. Then again, the fruit pies are of pure comfort food. Need some Sons is just around the corner). facebook.com/LordofthePiesGB sensational too. protein? Try their minced steak. 1 New Ferry Road, New Ferry Cheshire Pie Co Ffrith Farm, Treuddyn 15 Eaves Lane, Chorley Pork and Mrs Darlington’s swansfarmshop.co.uk hallsbakery.co.uk caramelised onion chutney, Greater anyone? Even just writing that Bowen Pies Manchester made our mouths sort of have YORKSHIRE Ever enjoyed a Whist Pie? If not, a little party of their own. How might we suggest a day trip to Great North Pie Co about ham, leek, cheese and Wilsons Bowen’s? This beef and bacon A fixture at the best markets of bacon? Or pork and chorizo. This Voted England’s best beauty is the heart of this fabulous Cheshire, Greater Manchester Cheshire favourite pushes all our independent butcher, Wilson’s family-run pie business. See also and Derbyshire, the GNPC’s buttons. does a mean (and by mean, we their steak pudding: it’s a pie, offerings are all you need to fuel mean not mean at all) range of but with a wonderfully moist, you up for a good old browse. 8 Bold Street, Sandbach stuffed-to-the-crust pies. Our steamed pastry shell. Serve with Their steak and stout is a meal cheshire-pie.co.uk choice? The force of nature that chips and gravy. Now. unto itself, and their white is their Huntsman’s Pie – a riot Cheshire, beetroot and cranberry Treacle Town Pie Co of pork, turkey, apple and apricot 1-3 Babylon Lane, Adlington, might shout knowingly artisan Macclesfield loves its pies. And stuffing. And we’re suckers for a Chorley but, frankly, who cares. It’s why wouldn’t it, when it’s spoiled fine gala pie. bowenpies.co.uk stunningly good. by baking of such distinction. Officially home to the ‘Best Steak 38 Austhorpe Road, Leeds Carrs Pasties greatnorthpie.co and Ale Pie in Britain’ (prime lean wilsonsbutchers.co.uk This isn’t the place for a diced local beef, Robinson's ‘Old discussion on whether a pasty is a Bradley’s Bakery Tom’ Ale, mushroom, onions and Costellos pie. Let’s just say we’re prepared It’s not all about the pork pie at rosemary), Treacle Town’s pork Award winnings pies from this to move the goalposts when Bradley’s, but it mostly is. It’s pie is also a thing of beauty. trim little Driffield, Malton they’re as good as Carrs. Their a cracker. But spare a thought, and Headingley gem. Hand meat and potato is a thing of and a stomach, for their award- 10 Charlotte Street, Macclesfield rolled pastry, spoon-filled pies, beauty. winning steak and cowheel and thetreacletownpiecompany.co.uk butcher-selected meat. It’s a pork and Bury black pudding holy trinity that results in some Branches throughout Bolton pies. You’ll not go hungry here. H E Coward of the finest bakes in Yorkshire. carrspasties.co.uk A hardy crew of in-house The pie, Costellos-style is 225 King’s Road, butchers make these pretty damn elevated to a thing of real beauty, Harry Muffin Hurst Cross, Ashton-under-Lyne impressive Desperate Dan- especially when served with their Bury market’s greatest – try the bestporkpie.co.uk style cow pies. “Unlike other homemade chutneys. sweet whinberry (or bilberry) pie makers we put the best in pie, or the tremendous Cissy Pryces our pies, not the bits. The cuts costellosbakery.com Greens hand raised meat pie, a All your favourites, deep-filled we select are the finest for slow small Scotch pie-like gem, from a and fresh from the oven, here cooking, that’s why the meat is so Yorkshire Pie House DIRECTORY traditional Haslingden recipe. at Pryces. Whist pie, steak and tender.” They say. Bringing honest-to-goodness onion, cheese and onion. They pub-style pies to the good Bury Market, Market Street really don’t mess around with 68 Main Street, Frodsham people of Doncaster – that’s the burymarket.com your fancy new fillings here. And, hecoward.co.uk Yorkshire Pie House manifesto. sometimes, that’s just the way we And it’ll get no argument from us. like it. Steak and ale’s the favourite, but Merseyside NORTH WALES we really love their Chicken and 255 Manchester Road, Walkden Ham Pie, stuffed with free range Homebaked pryces.com Cadwgan Bakery chickens and prime cuts of pork in Pie Shops Pie shop, bakery, community Honest and delicious Welsh a creamy sauce. Yum. saviours all round life-affirming Pie and Ale home cooking at its best – the example of how, when you put Yes this Northern Quarter queues out the door says more Silver Street, Doncaster a decent pie at the centre of favourite is a sit down affair, but than a thousand Tripadvisor yorkshirepie.com So, have we convinced you that you need more pie in your life? If we haven’t, your regeneration plans, the they also deliver. So their Steak reviews. Yes, it’s usually famous rest is easy. Let’s hope LFC and Yippee Pie can be (thanks to for its lemon cream buns, but we’ve failed. If we have, you could do far worse than plot your pie-based start to really engage with this Deliveroo) whisked round to your they’re not shirking in the pastry neighbourhood gem. place within half an hour. Yes department either. perambulations here. please. See also their awesome 199 Oakfield Road, Anfield Three Cheese and Ale – mature Abergele Rd, Colwyn Bay homebaked.org.uk white cheddar, rich smoky white cheese and a sharp tangy

56 57 So, was Coronation Street always just a cheese warm up career move?

Not at all. I loved Corry-orry. But a new producer came in, and made it quite clear he didn’t love me. That’s fine. You either get on or you don’t. We didn’t. So, after 21 good years, I left. No point being somewhere you’re really not wanted.

So why the move to food?

I had a friend, Nigel Haworth at Northcote. “You keep telling me you can cook, so come to our kitchen, you’ll soon find out if you can!” he said. And I like a challenge. So Lisa, there, really I made a promise put me through my paces. But, really, it was always about the to Bob that I’d cheese! help spread the What was the next step for word. Unlike other you? cheeses, Lancaster I was introduced to legendary, cheese hasn’t broken sadly now departed, Lancashire cheesemaker Bob Kitching, through the county who founded Leagram Organic boundaries. You can Dairy in Chipping. He was a real inspiration, and kept flying the buy Wensleydale in flag for local cheeses when it was Cornwall, and Red deeply unfashionable to do so. Leicester anywhere. What is it about cheese that fired you up? We need to show Britain what we’re I’m fascinated by the science of it all. How it’s about a simple made of. product – milk, and working out how to save it, by transforming it Q & A into a completely different state What’s so good about it? of matter. I love that it comes from a basic ingredient and turns We’re the only country that uses into some of the finest stuff a a multi day curd, yesterday's human can craft. It’s similar to curd left to toughen up overnight how grapes become wine. And on the draining table, and it’s True Culture you’re not going to meet any blended with this morning’s Lancashire winemakers, so it had curd, which is so runny it slips to be cheese. through your fingers. The result From prowling the wards of Wetherfield is a uniquely creamy flavour and What was the first cheese you crumbly texture. General to stirring his award-winning made? How do you have it? curds and way, Sean Wilson’s swapped Bob taught me how to make a lovely Lancashire crumby. I I love making a really nice cheese the cobbles for the crumbly, award- entered a competition, and I board, I mix our blue cheese with only bloody won. I was 40. And cream and honey, and serve with winning range of real Lancashire cheeses. then I knew, this is how I want fruits and nuts and crumbs. But to spend the rest of my life. I had look out for our brie/camembert two big Ikea pans, Bob at the style, made with the richer Jersey end of the phone, copious notes milk, Soft Mick, which turns everywhere. I don’t think I’d ever really custardy after a few weeks. been happier. The Gold Medal It’s my current favourite. just topped it off. The Saddleworth Cheese Are you something of a cheese Company has won a Gold Medal evangelist? for Muldoons Picnic, its crumbly Lancashire, and awards for its You try as much as you can. The aged and creamier How’s Yer biggest seller will always be a Father, a full flavoured vintage, block of supermarket Cheddar. Mouth Almighty, and a nuttily I doubt 99 per cent of people creamy blue-veined cheese, have even tasted a good Cheddar, Smelly Ha'peth. Look for them like Montgomery. There are in delis, farm shops and Tesco 700 named varieties of British Express stores across the region. cheeses, but really – how many have you tasted? saddleworthcheese.co.uk

58 59 Thai Calamari Try sharing it. You won’t want to.

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