Joe Yonan Is a Kindred Spirit; He Too Is a Meat Lover Who’S Embarked on a Vegetable-Forward Adventure and Made More Room for Plants on the Plate
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Y ONAN “I love everything about this book: the concept, narrative, context, voice, look, and feel. Then there are the recipes—so inviting, I just want to start at the beginning and cook my way through the entire batch. And as if we need E AT YOUR a bonus, Joe’s personal warmth and intelligence shine through all of this like a big embrace.” —Mollie katzen, author of The Moosewood Cookbook and The Heart of the Plate Vegetables b old Recipes foR the single cook “Joe Yonan is a kindred spirit; he too is a meat lover who’s embarked on a vegetable-forward adventure and made more room for plants on the plate. But he’s done much more in Eat Your Vegetables: Joe invites us along for a delicious ride that includes the highs and lows of edible gardening and the joy of cooking for one (with smart, practical tips for managing leftovers and minimizing food waste), wrapped in an impassioned plea to get off the couch and—yes!—into the kitchen. ” E AT YOUR —kiM o’donnel, author of The Meat Lover’s Meatless Celebrations and The Meat Lover’s Meatless Cookbook “It’s hard to write inspired recipes that are simple, but that’s just what Joe Yonan has done in Eat Your Vegetables. In addition to good food, Joe offers great advice for anyone looking to cook more often and more successfully. Read his essay on how to use a recipe and you will become a better cook even before you get into the kitchen.” Vegetables —Jack bishop, Editorial Director, America’s Test Kitchen, and author of Vegetables Every Day “I’m thrilled to have Joe’s creative collection of recipes that serve vegetables in perfect portions for quick meals by myself—it even includes a sweet selection of desserts for one (which is great because I don’t have to share!). With Eat Your Vegetables as your guide, you’ll be prowling the produce bins with a fresh eye on flavor.” — daVid leboVitz, author of Ready for Dessert and The Sweet Life in Paris U.S. $24.99 / $27.95 CAN Cooking / Vegetables TEN SPEED pRess Berkeley www.crownpublishing.com www.tenspeed.com JOE YONAN eat your Vegetables eat your Vegetables Bold Recipes foR the single cook Joe Yonan Photography by Matt Armendariz & Adam Pearson t en speed press Berkeley For my sister Rebekah, the first vegetarian I knew and my favorite person to cook with Contents 1 Preface 31 Basil Goddess Dressing 5 Acknowledgments 32 Sesame Miso Vinaigrette 7 How to Use This Book 33 Sour Plum Vinaigrette 11 Storing and Using Up Extra Ingredients e ssaY: foRget the clock, RememBeR YouR food • 34 chapter 1 salads and dressings chapter 2 sandwiChes and soups 16 Asian Bean and Barley Salad 17 Perfect Poached Egg 42 Curried Mushroom Bean Burgers 18 Cold Spicy Ramen Noodles with Tofu 43 Sloppy Vegan Joe and Kimchi 45 Grilled Kimcheese 21 Curried Broccoli and Warm Israeli 46 Grilled Almond Butter and Dried Plum Couscous Salad Sandwich 22 Kale and Mango Niçoise Salad sidebar: more nut butter and dried fruit sidebar: massaging kale • 22 sandwich ideas • 47 23 Lime Ginger Vinaigrette 48 Grilled Mushroom, Poblano, and Cheese 24 Spicy Kale Salad with Miso-Mushroom Sandwich Omelet 49 Tofu, Grilled Cabbage, and Poblano 26 Lemon Chile Vinaigrette Tapenade Sandwich 27 Smoky Cabbage and Noodles with 50 Grilled Greens, Chickpea, and Peppadew Glazed Tempeh Sandwich 29 Tomato, Beet, and Peach Stacks 52 Ricotta, Zucchini, and Radicchio Sandwich 30 Walnut Oregano Vinaigrette 53 Juicy Bella 54 Kale and Caramelized Onion Quesadilla sidebar: more roasted sweet potato 55 Indonesian Tofu and Egg Wraps ideas • 87 56 Minty Pea Soup with Pea and Feta Toast 88 Sweet Potato Galette with Mushrooms and Kale 57 Cool, Spicy Mango Yogurt Soup 91 Pomegranate-Glazed Eggplant 58 Green Gumbo pRofile: the faRmeR goes to maRket • 92 sidebar: vegetable stock • 59 61 Creamy Green Gazpacho 62 Celery Soup with Apple and Blue Cheese 63 Bean and Poblano Soup with Cinnamon Croutons 64 Carrot and Ginger Soup with Quick- Pickled Beet 66 Bean and Israeli Couscous Soup e ssaY: should We stop mocking mock chapter 4 meat? • 67 on the stoVetop 100 Fusilli with Corn Sauce 102 Pasta with Squash and Miso 103 Spaghetti with Root-to-Leaf Radish 105 Risotto with Greens and Zucchini 106 Spicy Basil Tofu Fried Rice 107 Pepper-Crusted Tofu with Broccoli Stir-Fry 108 Sweet Potato, Kimchi, and Greens Hash chapter 3 109 Chicken-Fried Cauliflower with baking, roasting, Miso-Onion Gravy and broiling 110 Enfrijoladas with Egg, Avocado, and Onion 74 Baby Eggplant Parm sidebar: grind your own • 112 75 Cheesy Greens and Rice Gratin 113 Potato and Bean Tostadas with Avocado– 76 Asparagus with Romesco Blanco Green Onion Salsa 79 Oyster Mushroom and Corn Tart 114 Steamed Eggplant with Miso-Tomato Sauce sidebar: more savory tart ideas • 80 115 Szechuan-Style Tofu and Shiitake Stir-Fry 81 Roasted Cauliflower and Green Beans with 117 Thai-Style Kabocha Squash and Tofu Curry Chipotle Sauce 118 Tomato-Braised Green Beans and New 82 Chickpea Pancake with Broccoli and Potatoes Eggplant Puree e ssaY: When paRadise gets paved • 119 85 Spinach Enchiladas 86 Roasted Sweet Potato with Coconut, Dates, and Walnuts 153 Whipped Ricotta e ssaY: the politics of cooking • 154 chapter 5 sweets 128 Faux Tart with Instant Lemon Ginger chapter 7 Custard 130 Summer Berry “Tart” in a Jar reCipes for the Fridge, Freezer, and pantry sidebar: more ideas for tarts in jars • 131 160 Almond and Coconut Granola with Ginger 132 One-Peach Crisp with Cardamom and and Cherries Honey 163 Cabbage Kimchi 133 Carl’s Chocolate-Chunk Cookies 165 Grilled Cabbage 136 Blueberry Ginger Smoothie 166 Caramelized Onions sidebar: more smoothie ideas • 137 167 Perfectly Creamy Hard-Cooked Egg 138 Blueberry Wine Refrigerator Jam 168 Chile Oil e ssaY: the vegetaRian RestauRant 169 Za’atar gRoWs up • 139 170 Marinated and Baked Tofu sidebar: a vacuum shortcut • 171 172 Quick-Pickled Golden Raisins 173 Hearty Greens 175 Pot of Beans 176 Tomato Sauce with a Kick 177 Quick Pot of Brown Rice 178 Summer Succotash chapter 6 sidebar: cutting corn kernels • 180 entertaining 146 Kimchi Deviled Eggs 148 Guaca-chi 181 Resources 149 Ottoman Eggplant Dip 183 Selected Bibliography 151 Poblano Tapenade 185 About the Author 152 Smoky Bean and Roasted Garlic Dip 187 Index 195 Measurement Conversion Charts p reface I came to believe that since nobody else dared feed me as I wished to be fed, I must do it myself, and with as much aplomb as I could muster. —m. f. k. fisher, An Alphabet for Gourmets, 1949 ne of my obsessions in the 1980s was Bette from the care I pour into my ingredients. I hap- OMidler’s comedy album, Mud Will Be Flung pen to think I—just I—am worth the bother. Tonight, and of all the tracks, my favorite is one Sure, there are obstacles. Single cooks have in which she celebrates cynicism. In a singsong to overcome the challenges of shopping in voice, accompanied by abstract plunking piano, supermarkets selling portions designed for she utters reason after reason to find the world families—or crowds. We have to come to terms disappointing—starting with the grandiose with leftovers, a boon when they’re in small (“man’s inhumanity to man”) and descending quantities and an annoyance in large ones. But into the picayune (“it’s so hard to keep your ears the advantages are formidable, too. At the top clean”)—followed by the same punch line, over of my list: freedom. You don’t have to take into and over: “Why bother?” account anyone’s palate but your own, meaning I mention it because “Why bother?” is the you can let your cravings lead you where they answer too many single people give when I ask may. The potential for satisfaction is huge. what they cook for themselves for dinner. Their That’s why, several years ago, I started writing next remark is usually along the lines of “Why a column on cooking for one for the Washington go to all that trouble if it’s just me?” Sadly, they Post, and that’s why I wrote my first cookbook, think the only time it’s worth firing up the stove Serve Yourself: Nightly Adventures in Cooking for is when their cooking has an audience. I under- One, in 2011. I wanted to proselytize about the stand the impulse, but I have to say, there’s really joys of cooking for yourself, not apologize for it no such thing as just you. Who is more impor- or bemoan the difficulties. tant? And if you live alone, as more and more of In promoting the book, I started noticing a us do, it’s silly, in my book, to think that every phenomenon: at signings, classes, and festivals, time you’re hungry your only choices are take- a disproportionately high number of the single out, a microwave pizza, or an impromptu din- people who wanted to talk to me about my reci- ner party. I love cooking for others, but plenty of pes were vegetarian or vegan. They wanted to nights I don’t have any company, I’m enjoying know how much of the book would be suited my alone time, and I still want to eat—and eat to their way of eating. As I flipped through and well. I’m not going to lower my standards just pointed out all the dishes I thought they’d like because I’m the only one who is going to benefit (more than half of it is meatless), I started to 1 realize something else: I was moving toward to manage my weight.