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Home , Chicago Portage, Chicago River, Illinois Country, Illinois River, Illinois Waterway, Ship canal

The I&M Shapes History

The I&M Canal changed the nation when it The first people travel the passageway opened in 1848 and provided the last link in Several thousand years after the glacier a chain of waterways that connected the retreated, Native Americans were the first to eastern seaboard with the River use this passageway to hunt, fish and trade. system. By connecting Lake to During times of high waters, they paddled the River, the I&M extended the easily in canoes along the Illinois and water highway that the created DesPlaines Rivers, through the from New York to the at and into the . Buffalo. Boats could now cross the Great However, when water was low, which was Lakes to Chicago, take the I&M Canal to most of the time, they had to carry their LaSalle, and follow the Illinois to the canoes through a 12-square-mile swamp south to the Gulf of known as Mud Lake. Mexico. In an era when water was the most efficient way to move people and bulky The French arrive goods, the I&M Canal made shipping In 1673, Native American guides led French possible all the way from New York to New explorers Father Jacques Marquette and Orleans, and created Chicago as the nation’s from the to the greatest inland port. DesPlaines, across the to the Chicago River and , Geology made it possible providing them a shortcut back home to Although the canal was built in the 1800s, . Jolliet immediately conceived of a its story began over 12,000 years ago during canal, cut through "but a half league" the last Ice Age. A sheet of ice that was up (approximately 1.5 miles) of to to a mile thick (the height of the Sears connect the Chicago and DesPlaines Rivers, Tower) covered most of Illinois. This allowing an inland passage from the Great glacier carved the Great Lakes Lakes down the Mississippi River to the and flattened the prairie plains of Illinois. .

As the glacier retreated, its meltwaters A canal for a new nation carved the DesPlaines and Illinois River Jolliet’s vision was not realized for another valleys, creating a natural passageway from 175 years. During that time, the 13 colonies Lake Michigan to the Illinois River. Four gained independence from England and thousand years ago, a subcontinental divide George Washington was elected the first rose up to interrupt this passageway. This president. Fur traders and a slow trickle of low ridge forced the Chicago River to flow settlers made their way west to the east into Lake Michigan, and the DesPlaines wilderness of the . The to flow west into the Illinois and Mississippi dream of a canal remained alive as a key to Rivers. This divide, later known as the exploiting the natural resources of the Chicago Portage, is key to the canal story. continent and opening the west to trade. On Page 1 of 4 – The I&M Canal Shapes History – © 2004 Canal Corridor Association land from. In 1803 was built Digging through the passageway at the mouth of the Chicago River to protect Thousands of canal workers from Ireland this strategic future port site. With its and other countries toiled to dig the I&M northern borders established on the premise between1836 to 1848. Their basic tools of building a canal, Illinois became a state in were a shovel, a wooden scoop and a 1818. wheelbarrow. A dollar a day barely compensated canal laborers for the 12-hour From dream to reality days, diseases, and squalid living conditions Gurdon Hubbard, a young fur trader who they endured. It took 12 years of hard labor arrived in Chicago in 1818, wrote of the (including a 4-year hiatus in construction agonizing three-week-long journey across when the state ran out of funds) to build the the Chicago Portage to the Illinois River. canal. He later joined the ranks of other political leaders including Abraham Lincoln who Changing people’s lives advocated for a canal to cut through the In 1848, shopkeepers, dock workers, mule Portage and make the shallow prairie rivers tenders, stone masons, carpenters, farmers of the natural passageway suitable for and others joined Hubbard, Archer, Ogden, shipping. Kinzie and Chicago’s other “movers and shakers” to celebrate the Canal’s opening, Starting in the 1820s, the State of Illinois and proclaim it a symbol of America’s tried to finance canal construction. westward expansion. Ultimately in 1827, Congress made a federal land grant in recognition of the international Designed by engineer William Gooding, the significance of a connection between the 60-foot-wide, 6-foot deep canal extended 96 East Coast and the Gulf of Mexico. Land miles from the Chicago River in Bridgeport sales, and later, the funds of East Coast and (Chicago) to the Illinois River at European investors would provide the LaSalle/Peru, Illinois. It had a series of 15 financing tools. locks to navigate the 141-foot elevation change from Chicago to the Illinois River, In 1830, the Canal Commissioners platted feeder to provide water, and four the towns of Ottawa and Chicago (which aqueducts to carry the canal across creeks had a population of around 50) and began and rivers. A journey that once took Gurdon selling canal land at $1.25/acre to finance Hubbard three weeks now took a single day. the canal construction. The mere idea of a canal drew land speculators and settlers The canal meant that for the first time, from the east and by 1836, Chicago’s farmers would not have to maneuver their population had grown to 4,000. With great wagons through muddy roads to reach the hoopla, groundbreaking for the canal began grain port in Chicago. Illinois families on July 4, 1836 at the canal site in could receive calico for clothing, woolen Bridgeport. Canal Commissioner, Col. blankets, furniture, and other finished goods William B. Archer, for whom Archer from New York and New England. Sugar, Avenue is named, turned the first shovel of oranges and other goods from dirt. Chicago’s meteoric growth was could grace Chicago’s tables. The cost of launched and its future as the Midwest’s moving goods—which could now be pre-eminent city was assured. transported by the ton, not the wagonload— plummeted. Freight could be shipped from St. Louis to New York in twelve days via

Page 2 of 4 – The I&M Canal Shapes History – © 2004 Canal Corridor Association the I&M and the Great Lakes, versus 30-40 packet boats for passenger traffic, the canal days via the River route remained the least expensive way to ship bulk cargo like grain, coal, lumber and People flock to Illinois stone. After the canal opened, Germans, Italians, Poles, Swedes and many other immigrants The cost of growth and the canal as a were drawn to Chicago and the other canal solution towns. They plowed the tough prairie Building a huge city on a swamp almost grasses and tilled some of the nation’s most overnight was bound to cause problems. fertile farmland. They processed tons of Increased population meant increased corn and wheat in the grain elevators that waste—most of which ended up in the lined the canal. In Chicago’s gigantic Chicago River, which ran “backwards” into lumberyards, they loaded canal boats with Lake Michigan—the source of the city’s enormous boards harvested from drinking water. Thousands died of Wisconsin’s pine forests, and sent them west waterborne diseases like cholera and to build homes and towns on the . typhoid. To resolve this crisis, the I&M They mined coal, quarried stone and made Canal was deepened to reverse the river and steel in canal-side blast furnaces. Some carry the sewage and filth away from Lake found work on the canal itself, as boat Michigan. In 1871, a few months before the builders, canal boat captains, locktenders, , the “Deep Cut” was toll collectors, and mule boys. completed and temporarily restored the city’s health. Canal towns including Lockport, Joliet, Morris, Ottawa and LaSalle boomed with Chicago’s population continued to grow at the canal’s construction and its opening an unprecedented rate, reaching one million drew settlers and created markets for their by 1890. The narrow I&M Canal was natural resources. Nowhere was the canal’s unable to keep Chicago’s waste out of its effect more dramatic than Chicago. During water supply. Outbreaks of typhoid, cholera the 12 years it took to build the canal, the and dysentery continued – in 1885 12% of city’s population grew from 4,000 to 20,000. Chicago’s residents (over 100,000 people) From 1848 – 1860, it quintupled again to died. Clearly, the Deep Cut plan no longer 112,172. worked, and a more dramatic solution was needed. In 1892, the digging of a larger Connecting producer to market, canal boats canal that ran parallel to the I&M, from pulled by mules shipped grain and livestock, Chicago (at Bridgeport) to Joliet began. stone, coal, and foodstuffs like sugar, salt, molasses and whiskey to fuel the ’s The new canal growth. By 1869, Chicago was the busiest The new Drainage Canal (now known as the port in the . More ships called Sanitary & Ship Canal) was 160-feet wide at the City’s harbor than New York, San and 25-feet deep, 2.5 times the width and 3 Francisco, New Orleans, Boston, Baltimore times the depth of the old I&M. Like the and Philadelphia combined. I&M, construction of the Sanitary Canal brought a new wave of immigrants—this Because of the canal, Chicago would time thousands from Eastern Europe as well outstrip St. Louis as the Midwest’s major as African-Americans from the south. port and transportation hub. Soon the newest However, unlike their Irish predecessors, form of transportation, railroads paralleled they had the help of steam-driven machinery the canal route. While faster trains replaced to cut the new channel. Despite the protests Page 3 of 4 – The I&M Canal Shapes History – © 2004 Canal Corridor Association and lawsuits of communities downstream as From economic highway to recreational far as St. Louis, the canal was opened in the trail and national treasure dark of night in 1900. The I&M Canal and the people it brought to Intended originally for sanitation purposes, Illinois shaped the towns and landscapes the new channel was soon improved and by from Lake Michigan in Chicago to the 1906 supplanted the I&M Canal from Illinois River in LaSalle/Peru. By 1933, Chicago to Joliet as an artery of commerce. larger man-made waterways, the railroad, and highways had eclipsed the I&M Canal’s Modern waterways through the passage role as a commercial thoroughfare. Civilian As Chicago grew, port traffic could not Conservation Corps (CCC) workers built a compete with the increasingly congested canal trail, but in the following years, downtown, and industries began to lobby for government officials overlooked the canal improvement of Calumet Harbor. From and it fell into disrepair. In the 1950s, the 1911 to 1922, the third of Chicago’s man- canal bed provided a convenient right-of- made waterways, the Cal-Sag Channel was way for the Stevenson Expressway, known constructed. First intended to carry waste in planning stages as the I&M Canal away from the lake, the modern channel, expressway. Completed in 1964, like the Sanitary and Ship Canal, soon construction of the Stevenson destroyed became a shipping route. With its opening, almost all traces of the I&M Canal in the city’s port moved south to Calumet Chicago. Harbor. Starting in the late 1960s, citizens began to The Sanitary and Ship Canal and Cal-Sag advocate for the preservation of the Channel made shipping possible as far west remaining segments of the canal. In 1973, as Joliet, but the deep ended there the State of Illinois created I&M Canal State and the DesPlaines and Illinois Rivers were Trail from Channahon to LaSalle. In the too unpredictable for reliable shipping. The early 1980s, the organization known today I&M remained the only connection to the as the Canal Corridor Association mounted Illinois and Mississippi Rivers, yet it was an extraordinary preservation campaign to too small to accommodate 20th-century create the first linear heritage area in the freight loads. In 1933, the federal nation. Citizens, advocates, and government government completed a massive project officials in 49 municipalities and 5 counties initiated by the State of Illinois to channelize came together in a 450-square-mile region to the Illinois River all the way to the celebrate, protect, and make use of their Mississippi. That year, the I&M was shared history. As a result, today the Illinois officially closed. and Michigan Canal National , a new kind of national park, The most recent chapter of the inland welcomes travelers to the parks, trails, canal waterway link across the Chicago Portage towns and landmarks along this historic occurred in the 1950s, when the St. passageway. Lawrence Seaway made it possible for oceangoing ships to travel from the Atlantic Ocean to the seaway’s terminus at Calumet Harbor. Today, freight still travels from Calumet Harbor on the to reach the Gulf of Mexico.

Page 4 of 4 – The I&M Canal Shapes History – © 2004 Canal Corridor Association