Christchurch & Canterbury

CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY © LonelyPlanetPublications land. Flyover itorwalkaroundit,butyou’llnever Cook. forget yourfirstviewofAoraki/Mt seasons, thecountry’stallestpeakstandssentinelover Canterbury, andindeedalltheSouthIs- during winter at Mt Hutt.Duringall theattention switchestothemountainswithskiing Pass Country,and oftheMackenzie aroundtheturquoiselakes Arthur’s ormountainbiking farms oftheCanterbury Plainstotherough-and-tumblewildernessofSouthernAlps. the preferred backyardofactive weekend Cantabrians buildsquicklyfromthewell-ordered vineyards oftheWaiparaValley spatownofHanmerSprings,andwestwards andthetake-it-easy are sunset return theup-and-coming Tothenorth ofAkaroa. totheFrancophileattractions andwildlife cruiseswithaneventual and isolated beaches,formingabackdropforkayaking ofacitywiththerelaxedto blendalltheattractions ambienceofasmalltown. bars andrestaurants complementGothicarchitecture, andlocalsknowhowluckytheyare provincial charmwiththeemergingeasy-going energy ofametropoplis. andverve Modern them youcanunderstandtheirparochialprideandconfidence. if theSouthIslandwasaseparate country,butwhenyouconsidertheregion surrounding The goodpeopleofCanterbury whentheysayitwouldbe good are probablyonlyhalf-joking Canterbury & Christchurch 522 Summertime attractions includetrampinginthebraidedrivers attractions andalpinevalleysaround Summertime To theeastvolcanicallyuplifted hillsofBanksPeninsula concealawealthofhiddenbays Christchurch isundoubtedly oneofNewZealand’s mostliveable cities,combiningan

HIGHLIGHTS

TELEPHONE CODE: 03 Beingsurprisedbythe size oftheCanterbury Plainsonahot-air balloonflightfrom TrampingintheshadowofNZ’s highestmountainin Negotiating theouter baysof Taking Tekapo’s a soothing soakatLake Discovering funkyrestaurants andfriendly attheviewsofMackenzie Marvelling Exploringthehistoryof ( p558) Alpine Springs &Spa locals inraffish Country fromatop and boat Peninsula city madeforwalking posite ) bytram,river puntortwolegs–it’sa ( p547 kayak ) bymountainbike, Lyttelton Mt John (p566) Christchurch (p545) (p566) Banks www.christchurchnz.net ( op- Mt John National Park Aoraki/Mt Cook Aoraki/Mt CookNational ParkAoraki/Mt Lake Tekapo www.mtcook.org.nz Methven Christchurch Lyttelton Methven ( p571) Peninsula Banks

eastern SouthIsland.Theresult? Canterbury rainfall ontheWestCoastbefore reaching the hittheSouthernAlpsanddumptheir Sea Moisture-laden westerlies fromtheTasman isoneofCanterbury NZ’sdriestregions. Climate lonelyplanet.com founders, Christchurch has strayedfrom ture andwoodenvillasbequeathed byits it stillhastheGothicarchitec-Though HISTORY maintained Arts Centre. prideintheir beautifully and locals’immese around Lichfield St’ship caféscene St,High reflected intherestored lanewaysandsquares a little,andmore dynamicChristchurch is along Worcester St.Butscratch thesurface Avon River, andtramsrattlingcontentedly square,stately puntsglidingdownthesleepy with agrandAnglicancathedralrisingfrom visitors of Christchurch’s Englishpastthough, There’s stillplentytoremind conservatism. tingetan isbeingaddedtothecity’searlier more diverse immigrationandacosmopoli- NZ society.Change isnowcomingthrough increasingly multiculturalnature of urban Auckland andWellingtontoembracethe cities, Christchurch slowerthan hasbeen Traditionally themostEnglishof theNZ pop 344,100 CHRISTCHURCH to andfromChristchurch, see p552 . the NorthIsland.Forinformationongetting chug northtoPicton,withconnections and Greymouth, and TranzAlpine coast travel are provided byTranzScenic;its Coast and Mt Cook. nect Christchurch to Arthur’sPass, theWest southern townslike Dunedin.Operators con- destinations such asPictonandNelson, (and near-coastal) withnorthern settlements coastal east coast,connectingCanterbury’s to key destinations around NZ. domesticairlines flying byseveral serviced Christchurch has an international airport Getting There&Around pared with asoaking5monthe West Coast. has anannualrainfallof only 0.75m, com- Rail optionsforeast-coastandcoast-to- Rail Bus andshuttleoperators scurryalongthe service connectsChristchurch service CHRISTCHURCH ••History TranzCoastal trains crossing your path. thecentretwisting through andconstantly complicatedaround, butslightly bytheriver nated bythe Gardens. Botanic Thewestern innercityisdomi- Cathedral. punctuated bythespire of ChristChurch SqisthecentreCathedral of town andis world around them. tothewider alerting parochial Cantabrians ciety, butincreasing immigrationisfinally Christchurch isstill largely abiculturalso- economic andsportingrivalinthenorth, cultural notions.Compared toAuckland,its and thecityforged itsownaestheticand migrants arrived; newindustriesfollowed, but itscharacter slowlychanged asother it wasincorporated asavery Englishcity, the elite of Christchurch wealthy.In1862 were builtratherthanpubs,andwoolmade colonialoutpost.Churchesother scruffy England intheSouthPacific, notjustan- meant tobeamodelof class-structured the handsof thegentry. Christchurch was tile farminglandwasdeliberately placedin Church of andthefer- Englandenterprise, of Christchurch in1850wasanordered the originalurbanvision.Thesettlement ORIENTATION Christchurch iscompactandeasy to walk ( p551) (p536) Festival SouthernAmp national visitors),attherockin’ well-known newspapercolumnistJoeBennett Rugby team at Christchurch’s HolyGrailpub( Rugby teamatChristchurch’s p541 ) soak at Hanmer Springs Thermal Reserve ( ThermalReserve soak atHanmerSprings p553 ) Go green Tackiest tourist attraction Festival Swim at Watch Listen to Read Drink Eat FACTS CHRISTCHURCH &CANTERBURY church’s World Buskers Festivalchurch’s WorldBuskers ( p535 ) the WigramBrewing Company suchasBrewmicrobreweries, Moon,Three Boysor floral clock( p533 ) yteo (p546) Lyttleton Amidtheup-and-comingrestaurant scenein

A LandofTwoHalves AbeerfromoneofCanterbury’semerging ThemightyCanterburyCrusadersSuper14 Free street performances atChrist- Free street performances Akaroa, withthedolphins( Akaroa, p549 ), or NZ’sbestbands,(andafew inter- At the ecofriendly Onuku Farm Onuku At theecofriendly Hostel byLytteltonlocaland Christchurch’s Christchurch’s

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CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY 524 0 50 km CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY 0 30 miles HITHRH • hithrh&Cnebr &Canterbury CHRISTCHURCH ••Christchurch To Westport 7 Mt Haast To Blenheim (60km); A B (130km) C (1587m) D E Picton (88km) F Barrytown Maruia St James Seaward Blackball Ikamatua Walkway Springs Springs Rapahoe Lewis Pass Mt Lyford Kaikouras Grey River ᝲᝲJunction (907m) Runanga Village Nelson Creek 4 Kaikoura 1 Greymouth Stillwater Goose Bay Paroa Brunner Hanmer Hanmer 70 8 Oaro Shantytown Mt Ajax Springs Springs NP Moana (1832m) Kumara Junction 7 1 Kumara Lake Sumner River Waiau T A S M A N Lake Brunner ᝲᝲForest Park Waiau (Moana Kotuku) Mt Longfellow S E A (1898m) Ὀ Parnassus Hokitika Lake Lake Arthur's Pass Sumner Hurunui Culverden Kaniere Otira (924m) Mahinapua 7 River Cheviot Mt Rolleston 13 Arthur's Pass (2272m) Ross Hokitika Arthur's Pass National Park Gore Bay Gorge 73 ᝲᝲ Mt Murchison Pukekura (2400m) Bealey Hurunui Weka Pass Waipara Valley 2 Cass Wineries 2 Waipara Motunau Beach Lake Ianthe Mt Bryce Craigieburn Forest Park 1 Craigieburn S O U T H 6 (2188m) ὈLake Pearson 5 Amberley P A C I F I C 9 Castle Hill Harihari ᝲᝲ Rangiora O C E A N Mt Whitcombe Lake Okarito (2638m) Whataroa Coleridge 11 Oxford Cust Mt Tyndall (2524m) Rakaia Springfield Woodend Franz Southern Alps Porters Pass Pegasus Bay Mt Arrowsmith Sheffield Kaiapoi To Haast Josef Elie de (2795m) (945m) Riv Belfast (107km) Beaumont Mt D'Archiac Lake 7 Glenntunnel er Kirwee (3116m) (2865m) 10 Heron New Brighton Fox Glacier Darfield SKI FIELDS Mt Hutt CHRISTCHURCH ὈὈMt Tasman (3498m) The Thumbs Windwhistle Broken River...... 1 C2 Pudding Hill Banks 3 Mt Malte Brun (2545m) Rolleston Lyttelton Craigieburn...... 2 C2 (3154m) Dunsandel Peninsula Sefton Mesopotamia Methven Fox Peak...... 3 B3 (3159m) Mt Somers 1 Mt Cook Lyndhurst Hanmer Springs...... 4 D1 (3755m) Two Thumb Range Ben McLeod (1952m) 72 Mt Cheeseman...... 5 C2 Mt Cook Aoraki/ Lake Mt Dobson...... 6 B4 Village Mt Cook NP 3 Mayfield Rakaia 75 Rangitata Ellesmere Mt Hutt...... 7 C3 12 Fox Peak 77 Chertsey Akaroa Lake 72 Mt Lyford...... 8 E1 Tekapo (2331m) Ashburton Mt Olympus...... 9 C2 Glentanner See Banks Peninsula Map (p548) Mt Potts...... 10 B3 Lake Peel Forest Tinwald ὈὈLake Mt 6 Riv Porter Heights...... 11 C2 Tekapo er Pukaki John Burkes Pass Round Hill...... 12 B3 lonelyplanet.com Hakatere 80 (701m) Geraldine Temple Basin...... 13 C2 Fairlie Rangitata 4 79 Kirkliston Hunters Hills Southwest New Zealand Pleasant (Te Wahipounamu) World Lake Ranges Albury Ohau Range Point Temuka Heritage Area Boundary Ben Ohau Twizel Ohau 8 1 Clearburn Timaru To Ohau Ski Field (5km) world.co.nz; &GloucesterSts) cnrManchester floors. bookshop overthree St)Secondhand 133 Manchester international periodicals. culture, plus 79 Hereford St)Travel,historyandMaori mobile-phone rentals, wi-fiandluggage mobile-phone storage. Tce alsofeatures goodeatinganddrinking tiques, galleries,cafésandrestaurants. Oxford SthasinterestingLichfield StandHigh bou- Southwest theup-and-comingarea around Sqandisthemainshoppingstrip. Cathedral lonelyplanet.com published Monday to Saturday. Press Indulge Media Local Eye Christchurch.org.nz websiteforthe cityand tourism Official region. &Canterbury Christchurch high://NET Blah E Blah dub internet services. an hour. Mostaccommodationalsooffers The goingrate inChristchurch isaround$4 Access Internet pp528-9) (Map Tce).ThereHereford isalsoapolicekiosk St&Cambridge Police station &police service Ambulance, fire Emergency Whitcoulls Smith’s Bookshop Scorpio Books Excellent NZ-oriented titles. Centre, 28WorcesterBlvd) 5277; www.booksnz.com;Arts Bookshop Centre Arts Bookshops INFORMATION maps. topographic and regional maps,guidebooks,andtrampers’ maps, andmapsroad atlases. Christchurch’s i-SITE distributes free tourist Maps near the Avon River. drinking and drinking shopping. Itre Resources Internet Colombo Strunsnorth–souththrough Map World Map (www.stuff.co.nz) newspaper, Christchurch’s (www.brownbear.co.nz) Handyguidetoeating, (www.localeye.info)Onlineregional portal. (Map (Map pp528-9 ; (Map (Map pp528-9 St) ; 230High (Map (Map pp528-9 ; 77CathedralSq)Alsooffers in thecentre of Cathedral Sq. (Map (Map pp528-9 ; 140GloucesterSt) (Map (Map pp528-9 ;

(Map (Map pp528-9 ; Mp pp528-9; (Map CHRISTCHURCH ••Information (Map (Map pp528-9 ; (www.christchurch.org.nz) (Map (Map pp528-9 ; % % % 03-379 4580;111 Cashel St) (www.christchurchnz.net) (www.christchurchnz.net) % 03-374 5399;www.map 03-363 7400;cnr 03-379 2882; % ( % % 03-379 7976; hasNZcity 111) 03-365 3650; 210Hereford St) emergency dept 03-364 0270; 2 Riccarton emergency dept03-3640270;2Riccarton Ave) published every published every three months. .christchurchtodaytonight.co.nz) Usefulfree guide, h pp528-9; Hereford St) Sat &Sun,pluspublicholidays)Besidethe24 Hour Surgery. 4439; 931ColomboSt; for booking transport and transport for booking accommodation. opentomeetallincomingflights terminals oftheairport; Travel acknowledge the new millennium. Chalice bustle. Featured here isthe18m-high giving thecity’sflatcentrepiecemeet, alively SqiswhereCathedral localsand tourists SIGHTS i-SITE ofConservation Department Association Automobile informationdesks Airport Centre Adventure Information Tourist Post office Centre Mail Christchurch Post Travelex Sts ishometomajor banks. The intersection of Hereford andColombo Money Hospital Christchurch pharmacy After-hours 24 HourSurgery Services Medical &Canterbury GuideChristchurch Visitor phone firsttoconfirmthe location. actual The officemayhavemovedinthelife ofthisbook,so information onSouthIslandnationalparksandwalkways. House, 195Hereford St % Encounter Aquarium & Kiwi House & Kiwi Encounter Aquarium (see p526 ). andaccommodation;alsohere istheSouthern activities in summer)Dispensesinformationandbookstransport, urchnz.com; CathedralSq; 4 ocse S Mp pp528-9 ). (Map St Worcester 94 reasons youtravelledtoNewZealand. Anotherbranchisat andinformationcentre forallthe booking One-stop 03-366 0302;www.adventures.net.nz; 69CathedralSq) ahda Square Cathedral 03-371 3700;www.doc.govt.nz; Level 4,Torrens 24hr) North oftown;noappointment 24hr) North is necessary. (Map (Map pp528-9 ; cnrColombo&Armagh Sts) (Map (Map pp528-9 ; %

At i-SITE sculpture (Map (Map pp528-9 ; 736ColomboSt) 03-365 7777;cnrBealeyAve &ColomboSt; (BealeyAve Centre; Map Medical Mp p589; ahda Sq); Cathedral pp528-9; (Map , created byNeilDawsonto Mp pp528-9; (Map % h h (Map (Map pp528-9 ; Mp pp528-9; (Map h 03-379 9629;www.christch 6-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm 6-11pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri) Has 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri)

(AA; Map (AA; Map pp528-9 ; (Map (Map pp528-9 ; 53-59 ( 8.30am-5pm, openlater % (DOC; Map (DOC;Map pp528-9 ; 03-353 7774)Atboth % 0800 847486, % % 03-364 0640, 03-366 (www % United

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CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY pp528-9; a caféat the gardens toexplore, lawnsto sprawlonand andthematic plants. There are conservatories specimens of indigenous andintroduced riverside hectares planted with10,000-plus mission free; www.ccc.govt.nz/parks/botanicgardens; Rolleston Ave; ad- The Banks oftheAvon sound and light. the endangered birdsare hypersensitive to Don’t expectmuch fromthekiwienclosure; andspecificfeedinghas atouch times. tank turtlesandothermarinelife.seahorses, Italso thei-SITEcentre, through haseels, accessed Cathedral Sq;adult/child/family$15/5/35; pp528-9; 11.30am Sun) Guided tours marked thecathedral’s125thanniversary. the building.In2007significantrestoration gotowardsmaintaining but allproceeds Taking acameracostsanadditional$2.50, church’s 63m-high Cross. Youcanclimb halfwayuptheGothic work emblazonedwiththedistinctive Fylfot window,wooden-ribbedceilingandtile rose in1881andhasanimpressiveconsecrated sion free; 0046; www.christchurchcathedral.co.nz; CathedralSq;admis- 526 Christ Church Cathedral ChurchCathedral Christ Southern Encounter Aquarium & Kiwi House &Kiwi Aquarium Southern Encounter ( p539). Gardens galleries, andrecharge withlunchat loop togetyourbearings. Disembarkatthe St, before chillingatthe and thepensinsula’sbeautifulouter bays. Ondayfourit’s itinerary,thenheadto Follow thetwo-day Four Days ing. Intheevening, jumponabustotheexcellentrestaurants at and ( p532 ). Endthenightbar-hopping aroundtheinteresting nooksandcranniesof After breakfast atoneof Two Days IN... CHRISTCHURCH enjoying atraditionalMaorifeast at ( p531 ), before headingoutoftowntoridethe Botanic Gardens HITHRH • ihs CHRISTCHURCH ••Sights On daytwo,checkoutthe SOL Square h % % are free. h 8.30am-7pm Oct-Mar, 9am-5pmApr-Sep) 8.30am-7pm Oct-Mar, 03-941 8999; RollestonAve; 03-359 0581;www.southernencounter.co.nz; ( below ), andheadtothe Botanic Gardens visitorscentre Botanic Gardens 7am-1hr before sunset) ( h (p541). 11am & 2pm Mon-Fri, 11amSat& 11am &2pmMon-Fri,

spire Mp pp528-9; (Map (adult/child/family $5/2/10). (Map (Map pp528-9 ;

International AntarcticCentre High Street’s cafés Canterbury Museum comprise 30 comprise h h % 9am-4pm Mon- 9am-4.30pm) 03-941 8999; Antigua Boatsheds % Willowbank Wildlife Reserve Dux deLux 03-366 (Map (Map was (Map (Map

Akaroa , ( p540 ) jumponthe

Arts CentreArts gondola here craft andgourmet onweekends, selling playground adjacenttothecafé. Maori carving Maori carving and design. ( p541 ). Walkofflunchinthepretty Dine inthecaféinsideriverside home- of landscapedgardens,pondsandfountains. Elizabethan-style homestead on5.5hectares 10am-3pmWed-SunMay-Sep) Oct-Apr, .co.nz; 63Fendalton Rd;admissionfree; from theCanterbury ( Museum p531 ). (adult/child $5/free; 10am-4pmSat&Sun) Fri, 363 2836;2Worcester Blvd; plenty of cheap food stalls. food items, often withlive entertainment and pool building) workshop/swimming thecraft [email protected]; shop andgalleryof theatre, restaurants and cafés.Visitthework- outlets share thepremises withcinemas,alive 2 WorcesterBlvd;admissionfree) lent buildings,isnowtheexcel- Gothic Revival University),Canterbury withitsenclave of Arts Centre is justnorthwestof Hagley Park by bus 9. be ordered bynoonthedayprior. MonaVale Apr) Avonhalf-hour River stead, wander thegorgeous groundsortake a CollegeThe formerCanterbury site (later ( p531 ) and/orthe ( p547 ) toexplore harbour, itswildlife-rich There’s agood The Mona Vale . Tasty ( p531 ) anddosomemountain-topwalk- Arts Centre Arts ( p532 ) foralate-afternoon ( p531 ), orpaddlingaMaori canoeand ( below ) toexplore thehistoricarea’s Arts Centre visitors centre visitorscentre Centre Arts shopping picnic hampers for traditionalandcontemporary

Mp p527; (Map tramway

( p531 ). (Map pp528-9 ; www.artscentre.org.nz; www.artscentre.org.nz; pp528-9; (Map Lyttelton h time( p543 ) infunkyHigh market Christchurch Art GalleryChristchurch Art . Get thekidsactive. Get inthe 1.30pm Sep-Apr) 1.30pm Sep-Apr) h Te ToiMana % punt (per couple$25-65) ( p530 ) anddoafull

9.30am-5pm) 03-348 9660;www.monavale , where artsandcraft

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(Map pp528-9; (Map 10am-4pm Sat&Sun) Poplar Street h lonelyplanet.com isacharming ( % Avon punt depart daily 9.30am-5pm daily is inside the Guided walks Sumner Botanic 03-366 4943; need to need h %

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To North South Cranford St Marshland Rd Wairakei Rd Travis Rd 4 A Holiday Park (2km); 11 B C D E F Orana Wildlife Greers Rd To Katoro Waka Heritage Park (11.5km) Tours (6km); Ko Tane (6km); Willowbank SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES To Airport Gateway Anzac Dr Papanui Rd New Motor Lodge (1km); Wildlife Reserve (6km) Brighton Gondola...... 1 D4 Blighs Airport (2.5km); Rd Bower Ave Avondale Mona Vale...... CHRISTCHURCH ••Greater Christchurch 2 B2 1 International Antarctic Christchurch Pier Avondale Rd Nga Hau e Wha...... 3 C2 Centre (2.5km) Innes Rd Shirley Rd Memorial Ave ὈὈὈὈὈὈ Queen Elizabeth II Park...... 4 D1 Waimari Rd 8 Idris Rd Idris Wainoni Rd Avon Fendalton Sign of the Kiwi...... 5 B4 RossallHeaton St St Bexley Rd Sign of the Takahe...... 6 B3 Ilam Rd Breezes Rd Hills Rd Pages Rd River Tamaki Maori Village...... 7 D3 Ilam Fendalton Rd Marine Pde See Central Christchurch SLEEPING Map (pp528–9) 2 Avonside Dr Greenspace...... 8 B1 3 Bridge StEstuary Rd Jailhouse...... 9 B2 Kilmore St Avonside Pegasus Bay Marine Bar & Backpackers...... 10 E3 Riccarton Rd Hagley South New Meadow Park Top 10 Holiday Park...11 B1 ὈὈὈὈὈPark ὈὈὈὈ Hereford St Buckleys Rd Brighton Park Sumner Bay Motel & Apartments...(see 10) Riccarton South

2 Madras St Tuam St New Brighton Rd 13 Bromley EATING Blenheim Rd Fitzgerald Ave Linwood Ave Christchurch Moorhouse Ave Club Bazaar...... (see 10) Aldwins Cornershop Bistro...... (see 10) 12 14 9 Sydenham Dyers Rd Southshore Southern Arterial Mwy Addington Te Huingi Manu Rocking Ho TRANSPORT Curletts Rd Brougham St Wildlife Refuge Ferry Rd Canterbury Car Fair...... 12 A2 Estuary of the Avon Wrights Rd & Heathcote Rivers New Zealand Motorcycle Rentals & Curletts rse Rd ὈὈReserve ὈὈLincoln Rd Barrington St ὈὈὈ Tours...... 13 A2 Hoon Hay Rd Milton St Garlands Rd Main Rd Turners Auctions...... 14 B2

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(496m) Memorial

5 Lyttelton Harbour CANTERBURY CANTERBURY

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CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY city loop thattakes inlocalattractions and to6pmApr-Oct) Nov-Mar, 366 7830;www.tram.co.nz; adult/child$15/5; transport 50years later. Restored in 1905butwere discontinued asameansof Trams were introducedtoChristchurch streets Tramway first splittheatom in 1917. physicistwho Rutherford, theNewZealand exhibit celebratingthelife and workof Ernest of thecomplex,includingRutherford’sDen can provide informationonfree guidedtours clock toweronWorcester Blvd.Thehelpfulstaff 530 Colombo intheCity...... Coachman Backpackers...... Chester StreetBackpackers...... Charlie B's...... CentrePoint onColombo...... Central CityYHA...... Base Christchurch...... Te ToiManaGallery...... (see22) &KiwiHouse...... (see7) Southern EncounterAquarium Science Alive!...... Punting ontheAvon...... (see21) GuidingService...... Christchurch ArtGallery...... Christ ChurchCathedral...... Centennial LeisureCentre...... Canterbury Museum...... Botanic Gardens...... Bone Dude...... Arts Centre...... Antigua Boatsheds...... Whitcoulls...... United Travel...... Travelex...... (see 7) Smith's Bookshop...... Scorpio Books...... Post Office...... Police Station...... Police Kiosk...... Map World...... high://NET...... E BlahBlah...... dub dub...... Department ofConservation...... Christchurch MailCentre...... Christchurch i-SITE...... Christchurch Hospital...... Automobile Association(AA)...... Arts CentreVisitorsCentre...... Arts CentreBookshop...... (see22) After-Hours Pharmacy...... (see1) Adventure Centre...... Adventure Centre...... 24 HourSurgery...... Christchurch Personal A3 Botanic GardensVisitorsCentre.. SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION HITHRH • ihs CHRISTCHURCH ••Sights nowoperate a2.5kminner- 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 D2 H1 F3 E4 D2 H1 G1 E6 G2 C4 G2 E3 B4 B4 F3 B4 B4 G2 D3 D5 G2 G1 C4 G1 H1 H2 G1 G1 E4 C4 G2 B4 E4 B4 G2 G1 D1 Mulberry Café&Restaurant..... Mexican Café...... (see91) Lotus Heart...... Little Saigon...... Liquidity...... Joe's Garage...... Indochine...... Gravity...... Globe...... Fish &ChipShop...... Ebisu...... Dimitri's Souvlaki...... Copenhagen Bakery&Café..... Chinwag...... Caffe Roma...... C1 Espresso...... Bodhi Tree...... Bicycle Thief...... Windsor Hotel...... Vagabond Backpackers...... Thomas's Hotel...... Stonehurst...... Rolleston HouseYHA...... Orari B&B...... Old Countryhouse...... Oaks onCashel...... New ExcelsiorBackpackers...... Hotel SO...... Hotel offtheSquare...... Hambledon...... George...... Frauenreisehaus...... Foley Towers...... Entwhistle Cottage...... Dorset House...... Dorothy's...... Croydon House...... Bard onAvon...... Topkapi...... Sublime Espresso...... Strange FoodHall...... Savoy Brown...... Pak NSaveSupermarket...... NG Café...... New WorldSupermarket...... Mum's...... Living Space...... (see91) DRINKING EATING trams h 9am-9pm (

% 03- as available. also including thetram (adult/child $30/12)are on theAvon ( p526 ) similarcombotickets Ifyou’re planning onpuntingdola staff. ( opposite fromthetram orgon- ) –purchase family $35/12/75)forthetramand gondola ages $68-120; ted outasa Junction.Onetramisfit- atrium atCathedral look forwardtotravelling theglass through odd live jazzbandtojoin youinsummerand fromthedriver.and canbebought the Expect shopping areas. Tickets are validfor48hours You canget combotickets (adult/child/ 82 81 80 79 78 77 76 75 74 73 72 71 70 69 68 67 66 65 64 63 62 61 60 59 58 57 56 55 54 53 52 51 50 49 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 83 G1 H2 C4 D5 E5 D6 E5 D6 G1 D3 D5 D6 G2 E4 E3 E5 E5 D5 G2 G2 D3 E5 G1 E5 D3 E4 C3 F4 C4 E4 B4 C4 H4 E4 E5 H2 H2 C1 C3 F4 E3 F3 B2 E4 C3 h restaurant 7.30pm-late) The Crossing...... Pegasus RentalCars...... Omega RentalCars...... InterCity First Choice...... CarMarket...... Backpackers Bazaar...... Air NewZealand...... Ace RentalCars...... Untouched World...... Snowgum...... REAL Aotearoa...... Mountain Designs...... Greenstone Company...... (see64) Ballantynes...... Arts CentreMarket...... (see22) D3 Yellow Cross...... (see66) Town Hall...... Southern BluesBar...... Sammy's JazzReview...... Rialto...... Regent onWorcester...... Ministry/Propaganda...... Jetset Lounge...... Isaac TheatreRoyal...... Hoyts Moorhouse...... (see31) Double Happy...... Court Theatre...... Christchurch Casino...... Base...... Arts CentreCinemas...... (see22) AMI Stadium...... Twisted Hop...... Tap Room...... Rootes Bar...... Lyme...... Le Plonk...... Holy Grail...... Foam Bar...... Dux deLux...... Cleaners Only...... (see66) Cartel...... Bog...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT Backpackers BusDepot......

( % . 03-366 7511;dinnerpack- lonelyplanet.com 120 119 118 116 115 114 113 112 111 110 109 108 107 106 105 104 103 102 101 100 117 99 98 97 96 95 94 93 92 91 90 89 88 87 86 85 84 H2 G2 E5 C4 D5 G2 G3 D2 E5 D3 C6 F5 D6 F5 C4 D5 G2 D5 G2 E5 E5 C6 G2 D5 E5 H1 E4 C4 C3 D5 G6 E5 G2 D5 D3 H1 Ask ati-SITE( p525 Sqfor the ) inCathedral to bringoutyourinnerartcriticafter avisit. are goodbars andrestaurants inthevicinity to New Zealand. Highlights includetheMaori Highlights to NewZealand. a wonderfulcollectionof items of significance donation $2; % The absorbing Museum Canterbury lonelyplanet.com the Penguin Encounter. Visitingthe centre with a25-minute behind thescenestour of Ride bundles admission andtheHägglund vehicle, whilea outdoor adventure course inanall-terrain child/family $55/38/145) 15-minute (check atreception for‘storm’forecasts). The get afirst-hand taste of minus18°C windchill Storm’chamberand an‘Antarctic where you gathered undertheiceinMcMurdoSound, anaquariumoflife onScottBase, creatures and zoologicalexhibits,includingvideosof the icycontinentviahistorical,geological about programmes.Learn Antarctic Italian for theadministrationof theNZ,USand 5.30pm Apr-Sep) family $35/20/90,audioguide$6; 03-353 7798;www.iceberg.co.nz; 38OrchardRd;adult/child/ The International AntarcticCentre galleries. nearby Cultural Precinct brochure other detailing Wed) (audio hire $5; exhibitions featuring NZartists. and contemporary galleries,plustemporary collection dividedintohistorical,20th-century Thu-Tue, to9pmWed) cnr Worcester&Montreal Sts;admissionfree; pp528-9; struction builtin2003,thecity’s inaneye-catching metal-and-glasscon- Set Gallery Art Christchurch displays atDiscovery (admission $2). and Thursday. Kidswillenjoytheinteractive ated) runfrom 3.30pmto4.30pmonTuesday penguin. Guidedtours (donationsappreci- Emperor beyond. Don’tmiss thestatuesque array of birdlife stuffed fromthePacific and Islandin1907andawide on Disappointment HallAntarctic byagroup shipwrecked used stone) piecesondisplay;thecoraclein gallery, withsomestunning 03-366 5000;www.canterburymuseum.com;RollestonAve; provide andthere anexcellentoverview, International Antarctic Centre Antarctic International % h 03-941 7300; www.christchurchartgallery.org.nz; 03-941 7300;www.christchurchartgallery.org.nz; h Hägglund Ride ispartof ahuge complexbuilt 9am-5pm Apr-Sep, to5.30pmOct-Mar) 9am-5pm Apr-Sep, 11am Mon-Sun,2pmSat&Sun7.15pm Canterbury Museum Canterbury hasanengrossingpermanent CHRISTCHURCH ••Sights VIP GoldPass involves aspinaroundan

h (admission & ride adult/ (admission &ride pounamu (adult/child$90/75) 9am-7pm Oct-Mar, to 9am-7pm Oct-Mar, ( %

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h 0508 7364846, Guided tours 10am-5pm (green- has (Map (Map

h .co.nz; Path 10Bridle Rd;return adult/child/family$22/10/55; Valley terminal to thecafé-restaurant complex The Gondola pa traditional blending Maori folklore with apaddlein adult/childfrom$95/47.50) 388 6375;www.katoro.co.nz; is dark. Anotherrecent additiontoWillowbank be combinedwithescorted wildlife tours after ances alsotake placehere (see p533 ) andcan timesaday.Eveningseveral Maori perform- alpacas, wallabiesanddeer. Tours are held NZ animalsandhands-onenclosures with focussingonnativegood animalreserve about 6kmnorthof thecentre, isanother child under15yr/family$22/free/11/47; 60HusseyRd;adult/childunder5yr/ www.willowbank.co.nz; less wildcreatures at the ‘farmyard’. Enclosure at2.30pm,andkidscanpetslightly feed at10.45amandaroundtheAfricanLion tigers. fromthenative Guidedwalksstart bird well represented withanarrayof Sumatran bras, lemurs, oryxandcheetahs, andAsia is ze- Africana, includinglions,rhinos,giraffes, Mostoftuatara. thegroundsare to devoted and areptile exhibitfeaturing thewrinkly native birdaviary, anocturnalkiwihouse h McLeanslifepark.co.nz; IslandRd;adult/child/family$21/7/49; OranaWildlifePark Wildlife Reserves right next door. reality, themake-believe movies ( p542 ) are Ave.Moorhouse Ifthesprogsget bored with The city’sfree yellowShuttle busrunsalong Black Hole the aglow-in-the-darkminigolfcourse, even children canpush,pulland climb.There’s exhibits, fromopticalillusionstothingsthat is crammedwithever-changing interactive Ave;Moorhouse adult/child/family$14/10/45; pp528-9; (Map Inside thecity’soldtrainstation, Science Alive! the main terminal. the airportbusasit’sjustashort walkfrom the arrayof educationonoffer. Antarctic Take is expensive, butworthwhileifyoudive into Katoro Waka Heritage Tours Heritage Waka Katoro (Maori village). Willowbank Wildlife Reserve WillowbankWildlifeReserve 10am-9pm) 10am-5pm) gondola (entry plusminigolfadult/child/family$16/12/50)

% waka whisksyoufrom theHeathcote

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CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY Tce; canoesperhrfrom$10,row-/paddleboats30min % .co.nz; half/fullday$25/35) mountain; bookings mountain; are essential. $50) Company terminal withthe nicely off road. bikestain (half/fullday$30/45)willget you available from$175)andmoun- (oneweek where you’re Long-term rentals staying. are City Cycle Hire Cycling that includesthe Tramway ( p530 ). tion ticket (adult/child $30/12)isavailable stage attheWorcester Stbridge. Acombina- parture pointforpuntingfromthelanding a flat-bottomed boat.There isanotherde- return tripin the workduringahalf-hour 10am-4pm May-Sep) .co.nz; adult/child$20/10; 30mintrip Punting ontheAvon The boatshedsare pointfor thestarting ( exploration. There’s alsoanexcellent pelled vessels forindependentAvon River $15/16; and-white Dating from1882,the photogenic green- Boating Queenstown. to yourexcitement genepease before youget Jetboating ontheWaimakaririRiver willap- there isgoodskiingatnearbyMtHutt( p559 ). beaches,is atSumnerandNewBrighton Lyttelton Harbour. Thecity’sbestswimming Park, ornegotiatingthewalkingtrailsat theeasyterraincycling through of Hagley better suited topuntingdowntheAvon River, andWanaka.Queenstown Christchurch is gentler thantheadrenalin-fuelled pursuits of Christchurch’s most popular activities are ACTIVITIES on ridingthetram (see p530 ). child/family $30/12/65)ifyou’re alsoplanning 28 travels here. acombodeal(adult/ Secure up andcycledown(see below ). Lyttelton bus the Crater RimWalkway,oryoucangondola and towardstheSouthernAlps.Paths lead to greatExpect viewsover Lyttelton Harbour on MtCavendish (500m)in10minutes. 532 h You canpedaldownhill fromthegondola . Priceincludesthe gondolarideupthe 03-366 5885;www.boatsheds.co.nz; 2Cambridge 7am-6pm) HITHRH • ciiis CHRISTCHURCH ••Activities h

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0800 424534,03-339 4020;perride ( % , where someone else does all , where does someoneelse rents outvariousself-pro- 03-339 4020;www.cyclehire-tours

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9am-6pm Oct-Apr, 9am-6pm Oct-Apr, Mp pp528-9; (Map café % Valley (take bus28).The Path along the way. lookoutpoints withseveral Scotts Reserve, Victoria Park andthenalongSummitRdto up tothe to primarilyaslandmarks.Thiswalkleads andareat theSignof referred theBellbird at theSignof theTakahe toasimpleshelter Now theyvaryfromtheimpressive tearooms built duringtheDepression asrest stops. places inthisarea were originallyroadhouses on Dyers Pass Rd.Thevarious‘Signof the...’ way fromthe walkto cliff-top strolls, whilefurtherafieldistheexcellent are the tion onChristchurch walks.Withinthecity Sqhasinforma- The i-SITEinCathedral Walking city tours. pick-up and lunch). the Christchurch surrounds($125,including bikingonpurpose-built tracksin mountain rental (includingdelivery), oradayout .net.nz; perday/week$55/280) Outdoor Antics 7pm Fri-Sun) adult/child/family $5/2.50/12 is the for$3.Takea canoe totown bus43. Closer rentgym andsquashcourts.Youcan even pools (includingawave pool), waterslides, a & Sun) child/family $5/2.50/12; pooladult/ TravisRd,NewBrighton; www.qeiipark.org.nz; Queen ElizabethIIPark Other Activities return). hour return) orthe walk to From thegondolaterminal onMtCavendish, Evans Pass totheAhuririScenicReserve. Lyttelton Harbour some20kmfrom goes fers beautifulviewsona clear day. crossing andrecrossing SummitRd,andof- (two hours return) beginsatTaylors Mistake, The You canwalktoLyttelton onthe For great viewsof thecity,take thewalk- See p535 of guided fordetails two-wheeled 03-941 7080;www.centennial.org.nz; 181ArmaghSt; (1½hours), whichatHeathcote starts isahuge sportscomplexwithindoor Crater Rim Walkway Rim Crater Centennial Leisure Centre Leisure Centennial Riverside Walk Riverside Cavendish Bluff Lookout Cavendish , withaheated indoor pool. Sign oftheKiwi

( % Sign oftheTakahe Pioneer Women’sMemorial Taylors Mistake 027 2721210;outdoorantics@clear h

andvarioushistorical 6am-9pm Mon-Fri, 7am-8pmSat 6am-9pm Mon-Fri, Mp p527; (Map h offers mountain-bike (Map p527 ) through (ninehours) around 6am-9pm Mon-Thu, 7am- Godley HeadWalkway lonelyplanet.com (30minutes % (2½ hours).

(Map p527 ) Mp pp528-9; (Map 03-941 6849; Bridle Bridle (one

lonelyplanet.com Rangitihi descent provides arangeRangitihi of tradi- ofenvironment. Owner John Fraser Ngati inacreative andsupportiveown bonecarving Sat 10am-1pm). 229B Fitzgerald Ave; $60; BoneDude The trekking. Inquire at i-SITE ( p525 ). jetboating theWaimakaririRiver andhorse paragliding,hot-air ballooning, ing, tandem River ( on theRangitata p565 skydiv- ), tandem cruising onLyttelton Harbour ( p546 ), rafting options accessiblefromChristchurch include are somegood bus 3),whilefurthereastatTaylors Mistake also popularwithafew goodrestaurants (take Sumner (see p539 ) tothe city’ssoutheast,is 5,49and60headhere. buses Brighton; andSouth NewBrighton North Beach, drive of Christchurch (see p90 ). Otheractive The closest The closest Creative with typesshouldbookasession Several Several Willowbank. dle inatraditional onlyisadult/child$41/24.Anotheroptiontoincorporate apad- night out–theperformance dancing, awildlife tourandbuffet dinner. Forego thewildlife tourand/ordinnerforacheaper course, WestCoast Island.Before that,MaorimostlytravelledNorth tothesouthinsearchofmoa,fishingand, withsignificantnumberscomingsouthonlyafter landbecamescarceronthethan thenorth, Only 5%ofNZ’sMaorilive ontheSouthIsland:southwassettledafew hundred yearslater MAORI NZ: CHRISTCHURCH &CANTERBURY .christchurchinfo.co.nz; adult/childunder5yr/childover5yr$120/free/70) tribes. InChristchurch,asinothercities,there are urbanMaoriofmanyother Island of thecountry’swealthiest,becauseitissomuchricherinland(perperson)thanNorth in Akaroa ( in Akaroa p548 Bay(Maori&ColonialMuseum; ) andOkains p549 ). ( p526 Centre) attheArts andtheTe Gallery( Ariki p564 athisstudio( visitors todotheirowncarving ) inGeraldine. below ), andtheworkatTe ToiManagallery and concludeswithatraditional interaction betweenMaoriandEuropean settlers. The evening issetinarecreated Maorivillage, larger group.Phone the only runifgroupsof20ormore are butindependenttravellers booked, are welcometojoina (meeting house)andthe possible, onlyifnootherevents place. are Phone taking toconfirm. h 4pm Mon-Fri) adult$85; package 250 Pages Magic’ Rd;maraeadmissionfree, daytimetours$20,‘NightofMaori As wellasChristchurch’sCanterbury Museum( p531 atmuseums Maoriartefacts ), you’llunearth More doneby‘The BoneDude’,JohnFraser,whotrains contemporary isthebonecarving Ko Tane Another MaoriexperienceinChristchurchisthe The major The country’slargest 5.30pm & 6.30pm Oct-May, 6.30pmJun-Sep) 5.30pm &6.30pmOct-May, skiing Allowthree hours tocraftyour

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is in Christchurch. You can see carvings, weavingsandpaintingsinthe isinChristchurch.Youcanseecarvings, ( % % beaches iwi surfing CHRISTCHURCH •• Walking Tour CHRISTCHURCH ••Walking areas liewithinatwo-hour 03-379 7530;www.thebonedude.co.nz; (tribe)oftheSouthIslandisNgaiTahu ironicallynowone (www.ngaitahu.iwi.nz), 03-359 6226; www.kotane.co.nz; 60 Hussey Rd; dancing-tour-dinner package adult/child$92/54; 03-359 6226;www.kotane.co.nz; 60HusseyRd;dancing-tour-dinnerpackage h pounamu waka tothecityare Waimairi, breaks. 9am-noon & 1-4pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon &1-4pmMon-Fri, marae whare wananga marae (Maori canoe) with Katoro Waka HeritageTours( Waka (Maoricanoe)withKatoro p531 ), alsobasedat (greenstone). , toaskifthisispossible. Visiting the Nga HaueWha hangi (Maori feast). (houseoflearning).Daytimetoursandevening packages atWillowbankWildlife ( Reserve p531 ) features traditional

(Marae of the Four Winds; Map oftheFourWinds;Map (Marae p527 ; Sat yu dy in day your Start If it’s the weekend you’ll probably see afewIf it’sthe weekend you’ll probably see follow thepedestrian malltoColomboSt. SOL Square to explore thequirkydesign stores around and thenleftagain intoHisLordship’s Lane St andLichfield St.TurnleftintoLichfield St continue totheintersection of Manchester to return toafter Stand dark.ReturntoHigh p541 ) precinct, andmake anote of which bars the interesting shops of the part of town.DetourdownPoplarSttoexplore boutiques andgalleriesinthisup-and-coming Savoy Brown( p540 ) before checking outthe leisurely breakfast atC1Espresso ( p540 ) orthe WALKING TOUR bus 70. It’s a15-minute walkfromthecity,orcatch recommended. sobookingishighly carvers, are limitedyour owndesign.Sessions to12 tional Maori templates, oryoucanworkon Tamaki Maori Village ( , where bringtolife actors early 3 ; p541 Stand ). ReturntoHigh marae High Street High atothertimesisalso

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night gigsin SOLSq.Don’tforgetto putmoneyin the hat. There’s Park. alsoregular late- Cathedral SqandVictoria thecitystreets for10days,concentratedaround entertain National andinternationaltalent buskersfestival.com) i-SITE; bookings i-SITE; bookings are recommended. from tours. Depart around onfun,informative,two-hour .chchbiketours.co.nz; tours$30; it andsamplefive different wineries. adayof ormake Waipara vineyardsonthehalf-daytrip, .waiparavalley.co.nz; three toursfrom$65)Experience don’t expect toseeanythingfromthe don’t expect set. original on time, but these places really deserve more on time,buttheseplacesreally deserve indepth visits). outings(daytoursarePass fineifyou’re short andKaikoura MtCook,Arthur’s citytourstofull-dayAkaroa, three-hour from witheverything options inandaroundChristchurch, 0999; www.leisuretours.co.nz; touring toursfrom$49)Offers i-SITE or the red-and-black kiosk in i-SITE orthered-and-black kiosk Cathedral Sq. fromthe tickets citywalks. Get informative, two-hour Nonprofitorganisationoffering 1pmMay-Sep) Oct-Apr, 9 ; World Buskers Festival World Buskers January–February events: regular for acomprehensive listing.Somenotable Check atthei-SITEorwww.bethere.co.nz FESTIVALS &EVENTS Ghost Walk Tours Hassle Free SightseeingTours Christchurch Personal GuidingService Christchurch Tours Bike Christchurch WineTours Canterbury Sightseeing Canterbury Tours Leisure Canterbury Waipara Valley). Ask atthe i-SITE ( p525 ). afield (Arthur’sPass, Hanmer Springs,the the Waipara Valley. with afocusonfoodandwine,especiallythevineyardsof themedsightseeingtoursaroundtheregion $150) Offer 0982; www.christchurchsightseeing.co.nz; toursfrom at the i-SITE or the Court at thei-SITEorCourt Theatre ( p542 ). Centre. Book strolls throughtheGothiccloistersofArts Theatre) leads fromtheCourt an actor spooky night-time toursof and twice-weekly homes. heritage andsummer, gardensinspring 3½-hour circuitofprivate comprehensive half-daycitytoursyear-round,a Offers 03-366 9660;www.christchurchtours.co.nz; tours$40-46) h from the andvisitingthelocationofEdoras River, the Waimakariri jetboatingon gardens. Optionsincludea4WDalpinesafari, homesorprivate with absolutelynovineyards,heritage www.hasslefree.co.nz; toursfrom$199)More excitingtours % 9pm Oct-Mar, 8pm-Apr-Sep) Dr Aloysius Mort (actually (actually DrAloysiusMort 8pm-Apr-Sep) 9pm Oct-Mar, 03-379 9629;tours$10; Lord oftheRings ( % 03-963 0870;adult/family$20/60; ( % trilogy. Thesceneryisstunningbut trilogy. 0800 427753,03-385-5755; ( ( ( % % ( ( % % % h h 03-377 2365;www.world 03-335 0866;www 03-366 0337;www 0800 5687599,03-338 0800 484 485, 03-384 0800 484485,03-384 tours 10am&1pm 2pm Nov-Apr)Pedal ( % 0508 669660, (Map (Map pp528-

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CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY 536 February of outdoorevents. Sweet as. Sayg’daytosummeratahugearray .summertimes.co.nz) while accommodation without wheels rangeswhile accommodation without wheels 160; St;sites$38-44,cabins &units$50-139,motel$99- Meadow 396 323,03-3529176; www.christchurchtop10.co.nz; 39 Park Top10Holiday Park Meadow CAMPING Budget eating. good reached bypublictransportandwith lotsof Both are waterfront pleasant ‘burbseasily ( p545 boxed) orSumner(see text, p539 ). $101 and$200;topend– over $201. midrange –doubles(withbathroom)between (with orwithoutbathroom)forunder$100; into thefollowingcategories: budget –doubles soourpricesfall than regional NewZealand, Sq. Cathedral Park. Anumberof top-end hotels are around Riccarton Rd,westof townbeyondHagley and Papanui Rd,northof thecentre, and hostels near the Gardens. Botanic east. There are well-established alsoseveral Sq,withafew smalleroptionstothe Latimer budget are stalwarts foundaroundSeveral within a10-minute of Sq. shuffle Cathedral Christchurch hasmanyhostels, mostof them SLEEPING &ShowWeek NZ Cup November odd-numbered years). (heldin event Biennialmidwinterarts .artsfestival.co.nz) Festival Arts Christchurch Festival ofFlowers CitySummerTimes Garden January–March South Island’sbiggestoutdoor music festival. includes SouthernAmp(www.southernamp.co.nz), the &Pastoral(Agricultural Show;www.theshow.co.nz). Also fashion shows,fireworks andthecentrepiece A&PShow andshow.co.nz) IncludestheNewZealand Cuphorserace, July Parade. Flowers Church CathedralCarpetofFlowersandtheWearable flowers.co.nz) gardensbloomwiththeChrist Christchurch’s Consider also staying ineitherLyttleton Consider alsostaying Christchurch more isslightly expensive Motels are Ave clustered aroundBealey pis HITHRH • leig CHRISTCHURCH ••Sleeping ) Wall-to-wall campervans here, Wall-to-wallcampervans ( % ( % 03-365 5403;www.festivalof ( 03-379 9629;www.nzcup ( % % 03-365 2223;www 03-941 8999;www (Map (Map p527

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% 0800 $48-109; State Hwy1;unpowered/powered sites$28/29,cabins&units cnrJohn’s&SawyersArmsRds, 5993; www.northsouth.co.nz; definitely in NZ. andbarbecuesreinforceand Frisbees you’re appealing garden,rusticbutcomfyfacilities, reminiscent of abigshare-house. There’s an utes fromthe airport,andagoodfirst night .backpack.co.nz/foley.html; 208 Kilmore St;dm$22-24,d 208Kilmore .backpack.co.nz/foley.html; St; dm/s/d$23/37/54; 232Worcester 9677; [email protected]; arrivals. off-the-bus fers abreak fromplacesspecialisinginmass dorms warmedbyunderfloorheating.Itof- inner courtyardsandafriendlywelcomein roomsencirclingquiet vides well-maintained trees,well-established FoleyTowers pro- with/without bathroom$60/54; Foley Towers HOSTELS offers powered campervan sites. motel units.Airporttransfers are available. andplaygroundnewer clude apool,sauna Facilities in- after picking upyourcampervan. and playgroundfor the kids. ties, withanindoorpool,andgamesrooms Alsowellequippedforleisurebetween. activi- from cabinstomotel units,andoptionsin- St; dm/d$25/75; 03-377 0908;www.coachmanbackpackers.co.nz; 144Gloucester some central hostels. the upsideisthat Jailhouse isquieter than 25-minute Hagley walkthrough Park, but run andfriendlyspot.Thecityisa pleasant a prison),butit’sstillanexceptionally well- are abitonthesmallside(remember, itwas commissioned in1999.Twinsand doubles prison thatwasbuiltin1874and onlyde- pi 03-982 7777;www.jail.co.nz; 338LincolnRd;dm/d$25/69; Sq;bus21 Latimer stops opposite. than otherhostels, butstillonly1kmeastof filled withnative ferns. furtherout It’sslightly niture, areading lounge, andalovely garden villas withhandmadewoodenfur-separate featuresambience, theCountryhouse two d $56-74; www.oldcountryhousenz.com; 437GloucesterSt;dm$24-26, Coachman Backpackers o Old Countryhouse Vagabond Backpackers tothecity,Stonehurst ( Closer opposite ) North SouthHolidayPark North pis ) Excellent newopening inanold Excellent pi Jailhouse i Mp pp528-9; (Map ) Wellloved foritseasygoing ) Centrally located in a heritage located inaheritage Centrally Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ) pi Thisplaceisjustfive min-

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( % % ; 0800 567765,03-359 03-366 9720;www % ) Sheltered by % % 0800 524546, 03-381 5504; 0800 692 622, 0800 692622, % 03-379 tel isforwomenonly.Itoffers free bikes and van sites$30,dm$28,sfrom$62,d$75-90; 4620; www.stonehurst.co.nz; 241GloucesterSt;camper- rooms comewitha private bathroom. Mostof and agrandstaircase. thelight-filled glass,timberpanelling building withstained Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels out bathroom $94/76; www.yha.co.nz; St;dm$29-31,dwith/with- 273 Manchester bunks. It’sashort strollto Hagley Park. log fire, DVDs,andbeds instead pooltable, of old woodenvillahasalarge regal lounge with pi .dorsethouse.co.nz; 1DorsetSt;dm/s/dfrom$28/51/69; Sts. Lichfield life and andshoppingaround nearbyHigh It’s wellplacedfortherestaurants, night- with itsownsportsbarandanoutdoordeck. a centralandwell-equippedbackpackers, room $75/62; Sts;dm $27-30;dwith/withoutbath- &High Manchester 666 237,03-3667570;www.newexcelsior.co.nz; cnr dorms. ‘Sanctuary’ ern facilities,includingplusher women-only Sqwithloadsof onCathedral mod- It’s right young travellers outforsocialgoodtimes. i www.stayatbase.com; 56CathedralSq;dm$26-29,d$65-87; ). right (see colonialcottage road isacosyself-contained It’s popularsotryandbookahead.Acrossthe ‘Car-be-cue’ inthebootof anoldFordAnglia. sunny frontroomandtheworld-renowned coloursin bright andhasahuge libraryinthe pi 1897; www.chesterst.co.nz; 148ChesterStE;dm/d$26/56; of fresh herbs.Reconfirmbefore you arrive. two well-equippedkitchens andagardenfull laundry, ahuge of selection books andDVDs, $26/38/56; [email protected]; 272BarbadoesSt;dm/s/tw away. walk ahead atpeaktimes.Thecitycentre isashort room ifyouwantsomequiettimes)andbook what you’re after (egdon’tget apoolsidebunk tourist flats(see p538 ). Decideinadvance sites todormsandthree-bedroom campervan ing halfacityblock.There’s from everything Versatility plus,withthree buildingscover- Stonehurst Central CityYHA Central Dorset House New ExcelsiorBackpackers Base Christchurch Backpackers Street Chester Frauenreisehaus ) Slickandbusyhostel to pitching itself ) ) Recentlyredecorated, this140-year- Thisrelaxed woodenvillaispainted i i ) Sorryguys,thiswelcominghos-

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) www.chesterst.co.nz; 147ChesterSt;r$120-150; lawn made for relaxation. refurbished, centrallylocatedoptionwithagrassy Recently s/d/tr/q $98/140/177/198; 52Armagh St; 03-366 1503;www.windsorhotel.co.nz; .charliebs.co.nz; St;dm$24.50,d$60-65; 268Madras just across the road. pi www.yha.co.nz; 5WorcesterSt;dm$25-29,d$72-100; huge arrayofdifferent rooms;agoodoption for groups. pi www.gaanz.com; 36Hereford St;dm$25-28,d$75-125; Windsor Hotel homes offering guesthouse accommodation: to wine.complimentary Gallery. Wineconnoisseurs canlookforward across theroadfromChristchurchright Art front garden.Artconnoisseurs take note: it’s toned rooms,invitingguestareas andalovely stylishlyupdated withlight-filled,been pastel- Orari isalate-19th-century homethathas 42GloucesterSt;rinclbreakfast $130-210; .orari.net.nz; guests costing $15. There are twobedroomswithadditional opportunity tolookaroundChristchurch. a sunnycourtyardthatcouldhinderyour in 1870,it’snowcharmingly modernwith to Chester Street Backpackers ( left ). Built cottage isaligned colonial styleself-contained to apark;take bus14 or 16. Greenspace isnorthof the centre, next door are available byarrangement ($15to$30). English Park market. Dinners andbreakfasts organic ingredients comefromthenearby intolerances are allcatered for. Much of the and vegetarians, vegans, withfood andthose organic muesliandyummycoconutbuns, to yourbudget. Breakfast includeshomemade ofrooms andvaryinglevels extrasaccording aware Greenspace offers twomodernguest .co.nz; 16SheppardPl,StAlbans;d$85-110; Greenspace GUESTHOUSES &B&BS Midrange Rolleston HouseYHA Hotel Thomas’s Charlie B’s well-equipped, efficiently run hostel. characterise this andhelpfulstaff a pooltable and beds,huge, spotlesslounges andkitchens, Orari B&B Orari On Armagh Stare character-filledOn Armagh several Entwhistle Cottage Also recommended: ) Quiet with pretty gardens and the Arts Centre ) Quietwithpretty gardens andtheArts Centre witha ) Well-runbudgetspotneartheArts (Map (Map pp528-9 ; ( Map Map p527 ;

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CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY facilities; airportpickupsat no extra charge. this lodge hasa varietyof roomswithgood 5212; www.livingspace.net; 96LichfieldSt;d$99-119; modern roomswithallmodconsincluding owner alsorents outnearby self-contained apartments. breakfast isincluded.The bathroom;fullcooked or private in acharming1920sbuilding. Roomshaveshared facilities from $220)Flower-filledwindowboxes decoratethisB&B .croydon.co.nz; 63ArmaghSt;s$110-140,d$140-180,apt $125/165; 45 RoydvaleAve;7093; www.airportgateway.co.nz; d/q from MotorLodge Gateway Airport MOTELS Junctionwhenyou Cathedral step outside. Just watch outforthetramgoingthrough option. apartments provide aself-contained and lotsof originalartandplants.Loft-style place radiates warmth,withvibrantcolours ness hotels. Notworoomsare alike, andthe provides astylish antidote toclinicalbusi- 398, aptfrom$258; 115 WorcesterSt;r$116- 03-374 9980;www.offthesquare.com; the website forthe best deals. by one-andtwo-bedroom apartments.Check internet. Smallerstudiosare complemented compactkitchens andbroadband Sky TV, $149-209; 2200; www.theoaksgroup.co.nz; 187CashelSt;d$119,apt counts are available. cheaper atweekends andlonger-stay dis- shared kitchen andDVDtheatres. are Rates Sky TV. There’s alsoanindustrial-strength internet and has mini-kitchens, high-speed studios forlonger-term visitors, LivingSpace digs fornightlife-loving visitors andcompact Pitched somewhere handycentral between mirrors andbright aplenty. lights windows. Downstairs there’s agoodbarwith surroundings. Note thatnotallroomshave flashbathrooms,andfree wi-fi inhip TVs, nomic design.Lookforwardtoflat-screen rooms thatare anodetowhip-smart,ergo- newly openedHotel SOhas(very) compact www.hotelso.co.nz; 165CashelSt;s$69,d$89-125; SO Hotel HOTELS &APARTMENTS Croydon House breakfast bathrobes provided)andacooked is included. rooms. Allfacilitiesare shared (fluffy very comfortable abodehas40simple,sunnyand thisheritage red bricks, 538 Hotel offtheSquare Hotel Oaks onCashel Living Space HITHRH • aig CHRISTCHURCH ••Eating

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) or 16linksto the city. lookalike facilities.Bus14 withallthesame bledon.co.nz; 103BealeyAve; ste$250-315,apt$750; Dorothy’s restaurant specialisinginlocalpro- and awall-mounted pairof rubyred slippers. glam isprovided bya an airof relaxed glamour. Adifferent kindof tic arrayof antiquesgive thiscornermansion styled en-suite roomsdecorated withaneclec- .co.nz; 2LatimerSq;r$180-250; Dorothy’s Top End 859 ColomboSt;d$145-155,apt$170-280; 859 000,03-3770859;www.centrepointoncolombo.co.nz; door, CD players, doubleglazing,spabaths). Next units thatare luxuriouslyequipped(SkyTV, St; d$150-155,apt$170-255; 662, 03-3668775;www.motelcolombo.co.nz; 863Colombo p537). (see clock. Italsohasbackpacker accommodation the helpfulreception ismannedaroundthe central, modernandsuperblyequipped, uptosix.Theaccommodationissleeping touristflats units) andfullyself-contained motel rooms (fromstudiostotwo-bedroom The placetogoforgreat dealsonavarietyof $130-165, q$260,aptperweek$805-1800; 4620; www.stonehurst.co.nz; 241GloucesterSt;moteld good array of ethnic eateries alongColombo tions hasincreased inrecent years. There’s a The varietyof Christchurch’s diningop- magazines. glossy luxurytoiletries and including plasmaTVs, andastellartaurants rollcallof ritzyfeatures whim,thereto every are twoexcellentres- Hagleysweeping Park. attend Discreet staff and suites onthefringe of Christchurch’s George has55handsomelydecorated rooms www.thegeorge.com; 50Park Tce;rfrom$385; self-contained. wonderfully worries. Thelarger Apartmentis Camelia that willtake yourmindoffmodern-day ensuite rooms(somewithfour-poster beds) age mansion haselegantlyold-fashioned This sumptuousantique-furnished herit- Toto. anymore, duce furtherreinforces you’re notinKansas EATING Colombo intheCity Stonehurst George George Hambledon CentrePoint onColombo CentrePoint

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hip woodeninterior filledwithjazzstudents Hereford St;mains$10-15; mains $10-15; o-oEgih Christchurch. oh-so-English Alittlesliceofuntil 3pmeveryday. in Italy withhashbrownsareas salmon available Romameansgoodiessuchtitude atCaffe best spotforbreakfast in2007,arelaxed at- Tce; mains$9-19; box marked ‘Comfort Food’. music beats.Soupsandsandwichestickthe such asAnzac biscuitsandrelaxing world new withacombinationof iconicKiwisnacks plan galleryandclothingboutique. Oldmeets former warehouse nowincorporates anopen- St; snacks$8-12; nights. Saturday meals.There’slight occasionallive musicon adds uptoalaid-back spotforcoffee and St; meals$6-18; lar andbookings are recommended. ‘themeddinners’Friday night are very popu- freshly pockets. juicesandfilledpita squeezed they holdtrue. Thinkdelicate veggie curries, eatery reconsider makes barbecuebuffs all 10am-3pm Sat&Sun; Colombo St;mains$5-13; Sq, orthere are manyethnic flavours atthe updailyinCathedral set Food andcoffee stands Quick Eats just daysafter openingin late 2007. Garage becamealocalfavouritewonder Joe’s vibe withpizzasandKiwimicrobrews. No lunches, andamore after-dark cosmopolitan brings alonggood-value breakfasts and of comestoChristchurch Queenstown and postcards andplanyour next escape. ofburritos. Checkouttheselection framed from robust breakfasts to bagels, wrapsand and coffees, lotsof localbeers, andeverything is aversatile of spotwithaglobalselection teas mains $10-15; shopping. excellent breakfast before St’s losingyourself inHigh coffee andhomemadepies.Kickoff with options provide ahealthybalancetogreat Sun; Joe’s Garage C1 Espresso Globe Roma Caffe NG Café Savoy Brown Lotus Heart v )

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or after divinginto the restaurant strip along St; h cr park. car admire in the thecommissioned graffiti andProp onaneonlitcube,sipcocktail makes themostof itssubterranean outlook. St; but not mandatory. team, wearingred andblack is recommended, watching Crusaders rugby theCanterbury screen –ifyou’re fromtheindoorgrandstand ing decision.Watch live sportonahuge 10m an AllBlacksfan’sreaction toabadreferee- the raucousHolyGrailisabout assubtle St; around $8.Atopplacefora quiet chat. Thursdays. classof Ahigh barsnackskicksoff vintages, lushleatherlounges andlive jazzon St; old sofas fromyourfirst student flat. completeambience isstillintact, withcomfy nearby warehouses, andagloriouslyretro tobethelunch-room forcleanersit used at in Christchurch’s quirkiest bar. Apparently Chip Shop (p539)–butonceinsideyou’llbe tucked awayinthecornerbesideFish& Wed-Sun) rogate local bar. got aspotthatcouldsoonbecomeyoursur- boutique beers fromaroundNZ,andyou’ve menuand tapas an excellentwinelist,atasty Christchurch’s coolest drinkinghub.Mixin of TheTwisted Hopisreinforcing PoplarStas fashioned, thinkagain.Thearchitectural élan isold- in English-style cask-conditionedbeer Baghdad iced tea. including achilli-and-guava margarita anda inspired More cocktails. than60are onoffer, ( opposite ), swingbyforoneof itsAsian- atthispopulareatery, a dinnerreservation Tce; Cambridge the Arts market.Centre garden baristheplacetobeafter exploring Onweekend afternoons aweek. the nights vegetarian, andlive musicfeatures atleastfour There’s and good foodtoo,especiallyseafood brewed beers underpinthisChristchurch icon. h h h h ots Bar Rootes Holy Grail Le Plonk Cleaners Only Indochine Lyme Hop Twisted 4.30pm-late Tue-Sat) noon-late) 11am-late) 5pm-late) 4pm-late Mon-Sat) Goodluckfindingthisplace–it’s Mp pp528-9 ; (Map

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541

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY h acoustics are excellent. as orchestras, choirs andbands.Thevenue’s main venues forlocalperformingartssuch Jamesand the1000-seat Hay Theatre) are the Auditorium two mainspaces (the 2500-seat St) .co.nz; 86Kilmore Town Hall Performing Arts with anoutletinsidethe Town Hall. pany is excellent theatres; themajor ticketing com- Island’s performing-artsscene,withseveral in the venues, andcheck listings outentertainment .co.nz), atnightlife-conscious cafés,shops and the free leaflet fortnightly in pubs,bars andcafésismostlyfree. Get cancostupwardsofDJ events $30;live music sion ranges fromfree big-name to$15,though impromptu dancefloors. admis- Nightclub Tce bars/restaurants transformwithDJsand Wednesday toSaturday),whilemanyOxford centred on Lichfield St(usuallyfrom10pm Christchurch’s vigorousbar-club sceneis ENTERTAINMENT on Thursday nights. occasionallivetunes. Expect bands,usually out crowd,art-bedecked wallsandDJ-spun outforitschilled- alley bar,worthseeking Row; covering tunesyoucan sing-along to. Strip’ withMonteith’s andbands beers ontap Tce; from ‘TheStrip’,andthebetter for it. Thursday toSaturday.Thepubisafew blocks quiz (Sundayat7pm)andlive musicfrom of traveller-friendly such events asthepub has anauthenticEnglish ambienceandplenty Tce; Gloucester St&Cambridge Irish barintown,to be sure. ($14.50) fromnoononSundays.Thebest Monday at8pm,andgood-value roastdinners Thursday toSaturday,afriendlypubquizon still creating damn fine cocktails. withanaward-winningbartendermaintained bar afew years are back.Standards being Colombo St,LymewasnamedNZ’sbestnew 542 Bard onAvon Bog Christchurch isthehubof theSouth Foam Bar Tap Room h 9am-late) h HITHRH • netimn CHRISTCHURCH ••Entertainment Press 11am-late) Mp pp528-9; (Map Ticketek 5pm-late Wed-Sat)

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( Mp pp528-9; (Map % % 03-377 8899;www.ticketek.co.nz) % 03-379 7141; 82 Cashel Mall; 03-379 7141;82CashelMall; Sophisticated back- % % h 03-366 8899;www.vbase 03-365 2926;30Bedford 03-365 0547;124Oxford 8am-late) JAGG % 03-377 1493;cnr (www.jagg The Bard TheBard , Hollywood blockbusters. www.hoyts.co.nz; 94WorcesterSt) www.hoyts.co.nz; Ave) 392Moorhouse shows films. art-house two venues (theAcademyandCloisters) and Centre, WorcesterSt) Arts www.artfilms.co.nz; ecom.co.nz) comes to town. International FilmFestival (www.nzff.tel From late Julytomid-August, theNZ and mostcinemasare cheaper onTuesdays. Adult tickets costaround$15,children $10, Movies are listed inthelocalnewspapers. Cinemas the theatre’s regular GhostWalk (see p535 ). at10pm($15.50).Alsopopularis Friday nights improvised comedyshow, Court Jesters troupestages itslong-running toMelSamuel Beckett Brooks.Theresident thistheatreCentre, from performs everything 20WorcesterSt) 0870; www.courttheatre.org.nz; plays. touring Operaandoccasional theCanterbury Ballet, with offers includingtheRoyalNewZealand Another versatile of stalwart thelocalscene, 03-371 9452;www.isaactheatreroyal.co.nz; 145GloucesterSt) This brick-walled andwooden-floored jazz www.sammys.co.nz; 14BedfordRow; gigs fromnationally known bands. shabbyis apleasantly venue withoccasional heavy andpunk– andtheJetset metal Lounge ofis NZ’scapital blackT-shirt rock– think .myspace.com/jetsetlounge; 270StAsaphSt) See glasses. also p541 . day theoutdoorareas are amassof raised Onasunny aweek. crowds atleastfournights reggae, rock,popanddubartiststocater to .thedux.co.nz; cnrHereford &Montreal Sts) and bars offering live music. listings underDrinking( See p541 ) forpubs Live Music festival. mini-film with plentyof foreign flicksandtheoccasional Avecnr Moorhouse St) &Durham and mainstream titles. Sammy’s JazzReview Dux deLux Rialto onWorcester Regent Hoyts Moorhouse Arts Centre Cinemas Centre Arts Theatre Court Jetset Lounge Jetset Isaac Theatre Royal Isaac Theatre

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03-379 9404;www.rialto.co.nz; Art-house central Art-house % % Shows art-house % Scared Scriptless, Forallthelatest h lonelyplanet.com 0800 333 100, 03-963 0800 333100,03-963 03-366 6919;www 03-379 7675;www % % Christchurch 4pm-late Tue-Sat) % Invites ska, % % Comprises Comprises In the Arts IntheArts 03-366 6367; 0800 205050, 03-366 0167; 03-366 0140; 03-377 8618;

stadium hostscricketstadium internationals, butit’s slightly seedy sidealley(headdownthe seedy slightly St; charged for big-name acts. is notjustabout trumpetsolos.Admission is of wineandfoodawardsreinforce Sammy’s courtyard offers alfresco listening, andastring the oddfunkoutfit.Insummer,outdoor localsingers bynotable den ispatronised and lonelyplanet.com hungry places. After yourfillof woollyjerseys StareCashel allcrammedwith credit-card- Stand thepedestrianised Colombo St,High SHOPPING the smart dress code. clock forvisitors aged 20-pluswhoadhere to country’s oldestcasinoisopenaround the St; www.christchurchcasino.co.nz; 30Victoria Casino Christchurch Casino February to May. Watch the Crusaders inSuper14actionfrom rugbyheartland. best knownasCanterbury’s 03-377 8899;www.amistadium.co.nz; St) 30Stevens Stadium AMI Sport sometimes in attendance. DJssuchbig space,withall-star asRoniSize www.ministry.co.nz; 90LichfieldSt) Admission isusuallyfree until midnight. andtrance. indrum’n’bass,house Specialises next toRootes Bar, p541 , thenturnright). .co.nz; 92StruthersLane; morning denizens. and soul.Perfect for chilled late-night/early- changing andanever tap dietof dub,house hybrid withgreat Eurobeers on cocktails, Double Happy Nightclubs icing on the cake. Wood-fired pizzasandEurobrews are the manufactured beatsof SOLSqisagoodthing. eclectic live-music haven amidthelargely unfashionable. confidently crowd of workers musos,office andthe afriendly around10.30pm.Expect nightly blues venue isstillgoingstrong;gigskickoff St; 198 Madras h Ministry/Propaganda Base Yellow Cross Southern BluesBar 8pm-late Wed-Sun)

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from 9pmThu-Sat) 03-377 7149;www.thebase New Zealand’s oldest NewZealand’s % % Twovenues inone 03-374 6463;182Cashel 0800 523 378, tickets 0800 523378,tickets h % % % h noon-late) 03-365 9999; 03-365 1654; 03-379 2910; Downa 24hr) This The An www.untouchedworld.com; 301Montreal St) Colombo &CashelSts) .artscentre.org.nz; 2WorcesterSt) .artscentre.org.nz; St) door equipment,headto all international flight arrivals). Departure tax all international arrivals). Departure flight tax rives) and theinternational terminal (openfor ar-(open 6.30amuntil thelastdomesticflight ( age (open8amto6.30pm), plustravel centres ing currency-exchange, ATMs, baggage stor- p709 . Theairporthasexcellent facilities,includ- gateway. of Fordetails internationalsee flights, port.co.nz) airport Christchurch Air GETTING THERE&AWAY Sts. Lichfield Designs pp528-9; ity NZ gifts. fashions, cosmetics, travel goodsandspecial- department store men’sandwomen’s selling merino wooland possum fur). merino wool)or‘merinomink’(ablendof of (machine-washable ‘mountainsilk’ fine NZ-made clothing.Clothesmaybemade UntouchedArts Centre, Worldhasquality glassware. to eclectic range of Kiwidesignfrom pottery www.realaotearoa.co.nz; 101CashelSt) designers. NZ 707 ColomboSt) market. produce weekend ishosttoacraftand theArtsCentre toys. handmade and ellery, woollengoods,Maori carvings pottery, jew- shops andartgalleriesselling in the art galleries. andtheshops and crafts,visittheArtsCentre bars andrestaurants. Forawiderrange of arts design shops shareLane, thelanewayswith and, innearbyPoplarStandHisLordship’s ers isdisplayedingalleriesandboutiques, Sts). Thecreative outputof youngNZdesign- Lichfieldof andStAsaph St(between High and sheepskin, headtothefunkysouthern end % around theintersection of Colomboand For campinggear, hikingbootsandout- Ballantynes Untouched World Aotearoa REAL Company Greenstone market Centre Arts Centre Arts 03-353 7774) in both the domestic terminal 03-353 7774)inboth thedomesticterminal %

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(Map 543

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY buses departfromWorcester the St,between buses points in-between; see the points in-between; see i-SITE ( p525 ). Twizel,Wanaka,Westportand Queenstown, Dunedin, Greymouth, Hanmer Springs, Picton, southwest to Queenstown. Picton andNelson,southtoDunedin and ($74, 10½ hours). to Invercargill ($67,9¾hours) andTe Anau Dunedin ($46,5¾hours), with connections along thecoastviatowns SH1to Tarras. Heading rundaily south,two buses hours) thatinvolve($73, seven achange in toWanaka 11 hours). There are alsoservices hours), orviaMtCook($126includinglunch, directsouthwest toQueenstown ($66,7½ hours).($69, eight Onedailybusalsogoes ($51, 5½hours), withconnectionstoNelson hours), Blenheim($50,five hours) andPicton gotwicedailytoKaikourabuses ($28,2¾ cathedral andManchester St.Northbound 123 WorcesterSt; InterCity Bus daily). three two daily)andWellington($59to$259, .com) daily) andRotorua($129to$327, one daily). ($89to$284,six $332, sixdaily),Queenstown direct toandfromAuckland($79 flights for excellent last-minute deals. to $222,15daily).Checkwww.grabaseat.co.nz ($99 to$294,onedaily)andWellington($59 Tauranga ($134to$366,onedaily),Wanaka five daily),Rotorua($129to$327,three daily), $269, five ($89to$284, daily),Queenstown to $359,onedaily),Palmerston North($89to daily),NewPlymouth($138 ($79 to$199,eight daily), Napier($139to$349,twoNelson $184, five daily),Invercargill ($89to$267,eight ($129 to$362,three daily),Hokitika($74to Dunedin ($79to$224,ninedaily),Hamilton per day),Blenheim($89to$224,three daily), to andfromAuckland($79$332,20flights tions toothercentres. There are direct flights numerous direct withconnec- domesticflights 363 0600;www.airnz.co.nz; 549ColomboSt) flights. one-way under 12exempt. Priceslisted beloware for on international is$25withchildren flights 544 Qantas Shuttles runto Akaroa,Arthur’sPass, Pacific Blue Naked Bus Naked Air NewZealand fliestoandfromAuckland($79$339, HITHRH • etn rud Around CHRISTCHURCH ••Getting

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(www.nakedbus.com) 0800 808767;www.qantas.co.nz) 03-365 1113;www.intercitycoach.co.nz; h ( % 7am-5.15pm Mon-Sat,to5.30pmSun)

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sc enic.co.nz) one person thecityandairport, between ( airport and Sq. Cathedral which the 20minutes runs every between alternative isthe plus $4foreach additionalperson. Acheaper .co.nz) The airportis12kmfromthecitycentre. To/From theAirport GETTING AROUND $118, butyoufares canbediscounted to $70. (see p504 adultone-wayfare ); thestandard is Christchurch andGreymouth viaArthur’sPass but fares canbediscounted to $52. adultone-wayfarestandard toPictonis$88, at 7amandarrivingPicton12.13pm;the ring thei-SITE( p525 ) to request pick-up. that picksupfromvariousaccommodation; to3pmSat&Sun) Mon-Fri, 03-341 2588;TroupDr,Addington; railwaystation Christchurch Train Ace Rental Cars Ace Rental companies, see p717 . northbound route. Forreliable nationalrental direction, sospecialrates mayapplyonthis mostrentersbecause travel intheopposite be returned fromChristchurch toAuckland with nationalnetworksoften wantcars to merous smallerlocalcompanies.Operators all have inChristchurch, offices asdonu- Major car- companies and campervan-rental HIRE Car &Motorcycle costs around $35 to$40. andrunning flights bus meeting into town. hour.then every Note there isadaily12.55am 20to30minutesevery upto5pmor6pm, (from theairport35minutes later); itdeparts and 7.30amto10.30pmSaturdaySunday 6amand11pmMondaytoFriday between adult/child $7/4) 03-366 3222; www.acerentalcars.co.nz; 237Lichfield St) and Blenheim,departingfromChristchurch Christchurchtween andPictonviaKaikoura % Super Shuttle The airport is serviced bythe The airportisserviced Contact The The Some smaller-scale companies: thecitycentre between A taxi andairport 0800 733287;www.redbus.co.nz/new-zealand/city-flyer/; operates 24 hours andcharges $17for TranzAlpine TranzCoastal . Tranz Scenic , which runs from Cathedral Sq , which runs fromCathedral (Map (Map pp528-9 ;

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h % 0800 872467;www.tranz ticket office 6.30am-3.30pm office6.30am-3.30pm ticket 0800 202029, lonelyplanet.com ( h % City Flyer 8am-5pm; $5) 0800 872 467, 0800 872467, bus , % 03-365 1100;www.rentalcars.co.nz; 127Peterborough St) Omega Rental Cars Omega Rental &Tours MotorcycleRentals New Zealand First Choice lonelyplanet.com to two hours daily. 1½ Sq every ItdepartsCathedral Reserve. the gondolaand WillowbankWildlife such Centre, astheInternational Antarctic 24-hr passadult/child$15/10) www.chchattractions.co.nz/shuttlebus.asp; 0999; 03-384 of themdeparting Oxford Tce. & Sun) Express Midnight with about20pick-uppoints.The Peterborough Ave) St,southtoMoorhouse Sun) h .redbus.co.nz) contact services, be loadedupwithaminimum of $10. day travel for$1.90/3.80,butthecardsmust costs $2.50.Metrocards allowtwo-hour/full- ( p525 ). Acashfare toanywhere inthecity ternatively, get fromthei-SITE timetables change hasaninformationdeskhere; al- Theex- Colombo Stopposite Ballantynes. pp528–9 ), withitspedestrianentranceon runfromTheCrossing (MapMost buses Sat, 9am-9pmSun) 8855; www.metroinfo.org.nz; The Christchurch Public Transport Tuesday and Thursday. priced under$6000are auctionedat6pmon cars used byauction;vehiclesbuys andsells fee is$20. seller’s h FairCar pp528-9; pp528-9; (Map questions. Checkout homework, shop aroundandasktheright acar,dosome If youwanttobuyorsell PURCHASE Cars Pegasus Rental 03-377 4558;www.omegarentals.com; 20Lichfield St) 9261; www.firstchoice.co.nz; 132Kilmore St) Rd) Also does guided motorbike tours; Rd) Alsodoesguidedmotorbike see p718 . p527; ket.co.nz; 33BatterseaSt) ket.co.nz; The For informationonthefollowingtwo 9am-noon Sun) 7.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-10.30pmSat,10am-8pm 7.30am-10.30pm Mon-Fri, 03-343 9850;www.turners.co.nz; 1DetroitPlace) is an inner-city service (asfarnorthas is aninner-city service % operates onfive suburbanroutes, most

% (Map p527; (Map Best Attractions Shuttle Best Attractions 03-348 1106; www.nzbike.com; 301aBlenheim 03-348 1106;www.nzbike.com; 03-379 3700) (Map (Map pp528-9 ; . Thebigyellow % held at Addington Raceway; heldatAddingtonRaceway; isinexpensive andefficient. 03-377 3177;www.backpackerscarmar

AROUND CHRISTCHURCH ••Lyttelton (fare $5; % (Map (Map pp528-9 ; Red Bus Red Mp pp528-9; (Map bus network , or the weekly , ortheweekly 03-338 5525; Wrights Rdentrance; 03-338 5525;Wrights Turners Auctions , linksmajor attractions Backpackers Bazaar Backpackers % h Backpackers Car Market Car Backpackers h

0800 736822,03-365 ( hourly midnight-4amSat % 6.30am-10.30pm Mon- % Shuttle

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Canterbury Canterbury (Map p527 ; p527 (Map

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Quay; admissionbydonation; 7311; 2 Reserve Tce;adult/child $7/2; 7311; 2Reserve port as a base). gallery (bothScott andShackleton the used 19th-century pipe organ andanAntarctic els, plusLyttelton memorabilia includinga as wreck-recovered artefacts andship mod- Sun) ($1). pamphlet the Alps; see ofharbour views,andvistas theSouthern Road 10km longer) route alongthenarrow road tunnel Lyttelton islinked toChristchurch viaa Sights Arts. Fine bour.co.nz.; 34LondonStSt; 328 7350;[email protected], www.lytteltonhar lunch. for Governors withacoupleof Bay goodspots wends ascenic15-minute route topretty got yourowntransport,theharbourroad DiamondHarbour.water tosleepy Ifyou’ve access tosheltered islandsandacross the the hillalong London St. contrasts withthegentrifying scenejustup charm ofthe raffish theoldwaterfront pubs foodies. Lyttletonisstillaworkingport,and away anddiningdestinationforin-the-know café-bars, it’snowapopularweekend get- attractive heritage architecture andeclectic bark ontheirhistorictrek over thehills.With European settlerslandedhere in1850toem- port at Lyttelton Harbour. Christchurch’s first Port Hills,which slopedowntothecity’s Southeast of Christchurch are theprominent pop 3100 LYTTELTON CHRISTCHURCH AROUND Gold Band First Direct Blue Star Christchurch’s companies: maintaxi Taxi The neogothic Museum Lyttelton The Regular ferries provide andboatcruises hasinteresting maritimeexhibitssuch , which hasbreathtaking city,hilland Lyttelton visitorinformationcentre Lyttelton ( ( % ( % , butthere’s amore scenic(and % 0800 379979) 0800 3795795) 0800 505555) Lyttelton Port HillsLyttelton Port Drive Timeball Station

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with memoirs of thehotel’s 140years of his- chicken, asyousitonacoolveranda dotted innovative mainssuch aspancetta-wrapped maybe inallof –isroasted Canterbury daily London St; local ingredients. Bookings recommended. European airandiscrammedwithproudly boutique beers. Themenuhasawell-travelled drinks listfeaturing thebestof Kiwiwinesand bience withwoodenfloors, anda zinctables London Stnailsastreet-corner French am- by foodwriters fromAuckland), those (even h opposite) hasacheaper (see Bar bar menu. Lava Theattached good curriesandpastas. risotto,enchiladas and seafood café serving ingly friendlyVolcanoisafestive, retro-style 32; music. live you linger fortheregular Saturdayafternoon cakemenu. TrytheArmenianyoghurt as ceilings andaneclecticbreakfast andlunch at thisbohemian spotwithincredibly high from 8amSat&Sun) 8096; 29LondonSt;mains$5-15; bedrooms. three Chalet,arestoredable isLe 1910cottage with yourself fromthelovely views.Alsoavail- CDs, booksandDVDstoenjoyifyoucantear rooms andthree guestlounges crammedwith ad beer. and ground zeroforthe bestof Kiwifood,wine out in thelocalschool onOxford St.Also check market nation isenhancedbytheSaturday in the harbour views. chocolate andtakefor locallymadeBelgian chini andlemonthymefritters, make room with anorganic andnew-age tinge. After zuc- closed Tue) Rd, GovernorsBay;mains$22-26; Hotel, (doubles $75 to $85). ple butsunnyroomswithshared bathrooms tory. Upstairs there isaccommodationinsim- Rd, GovernorsBay;mains$25-30; Hotel B&B withfive colourfullydecorated en-suite Volcano Cafe o West roundtheharbour, London St Lyttleton’s growingrep asafoodiedesti- Across theroadfromGoverner’s Bay h 5.30pm-late Wed-Sun,brunch10am-1pmSat) Ground

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( % Adored serves farmers held 03-328 , drinks andfood are served. Onshowa coupleof nights, aweek. nights website forwhat’son;there’s normallygigs andworldmusic.Checkthe ing jazz,Celtic new Lyttletonwithregular live gigsshowcas- old theatre (builtin1916)straddlesoldand rock tolate morningdub.Look night/early NZ’smore interestingsee actsfromraucous quirky andcool.Wunderbarisatopspotto ership whenwevisited, butstilldeliciously London St; Wunderbar Drinking &Entertainment lonelyplanet.com still anundeniably picturesque spot, espe- forced,but it’scan sometimes be atad a few choice eateries. The Gallicpretence plus (Langlois-Eteveneaux), and houses of Jolie) Balguerie, itsstreets (ruesLavaud, French provincial village, downtothenames town thatstrives tore-create thefeel of a 83km fromChristchurch, it’sacharming French settlers stillreside here. Located descendantsofsettlement; theoriginal and isthesite of thecountry’sfirst French edge of the original crater. beautiful drive alongSummitRdaroundthe of asistheabsurdly Akaroa isahighlight, shape. Thehistorictown giving itacogwheel radiate outfromthepeninsula’scentre,Bays Bons,Pigeonsuch andLittleAkaloa asLe two giantvolcaniceruptions.Smallharbours PeninsulaBanks anditshillswere formedby Akaroa. and the route Christchurch viaSH75,between trying route islonger andmore scenicthan Harbour ontoAkaroa. Thisoccasionally by car,youcancontinuearoundLyttelton to Lyttelton (25minutes). FromLyttelton 28and35runfromChristchurchBuses Getting There&Away .co.nz; 24LondonSt;admission$15-25) quirkyafterslightly a few drinks. only quirky artistictouches, which mayseem Hasnightly. anoutdoorterrace crammedwith and openforsociableboozing (andsnacking) (naturally) Flowing onfromVolcanoCafe nice. Be nice peopleonly’andheaddownthesteps. ‘Sorry, for thesignonLondonStthatsays AKAROA &THEBANKSPENINSULA Akaroa means‘LongHarbour’ inMaori Harbour Light Lava Bar h

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AROUND &TheBanksPeninsula CHRISTCHURCH ••Akaroa ( % 03-328 8615;www.harbourlight Undernewown- Thiswonderful h 5pm-late)

of arrived. Britishsettlers Theheavily forested Companyandin1850alarge group Zealand 1849 theirlandclaimwassoldtotheNew ture mayhave been quite different. have becomeaFrench colony,andNZ’sfu- years earlier,theentire SouthIslandcould of Had Waitangi. thesettlersarrived two claiming Britishsovereignty undertheTreaty their ownwarship theflagatAkaroa, toraise they arrived, panicked British officialssent the peninsulain1840.Butonlydaysbefore government backing,63settlers headedfor to formatradingcompany.WithFrench- from localMaori andreturned toFrance negotiated of thepurchase Peninsula Banks lation was dramatically reduced. chief Te in1831andtheirpopu- Rauparaha Onawe at thetime,were attacked atthefortified Tahu tribe,whooccupiedthepeninsula TheNgai Banks. the naturalistSirJoseph Thinking itwasanislandhenamedafter History Christchurch. from arrange pickupinAkaroaafter youarrive Peninsula.Banks Mostaccommodationwill accommodation thatdotstheouter baysof ing afew leisurely daysinexcellentbudget area. surrounding the incredible landscapesandbaysof the forexploring itasabase cially ifyouuse James thepeninsulain1770. Cooksighted The French atAkaroa,butin didsettle JeanIn 1838whalingcaptain Langlois If you’re notinahurry,it’sworthspend- .nz forfuther info. an update. Seewww.littleriverrailtrail.org Check atChristchurch’s i-SITE( p525 ) for of writing,butthis willnodoubtchange. to trailheadsatthetimeproviding transport for thebestofride. Nocompany was trail 20kmfromLittleRiver atMotukarara alongside pretty Forsyth.Jointhe Lake Ellesmerethrough wetlandsatLake and ing 27kmfromPrebbleton toLittle River the trail’slasthalfwasopen,ameander- of LittleRiver. At thetimeofwriting,only of HornbytotheBanksPeninsula hamlet traverse 45kmfromtheChristchurchsuburb The Trailwilleventually LittleRiver Rail RIVERTHE SLOWROAD TOLITTLE pa (Maori village) bytheNgatiToa

547

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY cnr Rues Lavaud & Balguerie; adult/child/family$4/1/8; cnr RuesLavaud&Balguerie; h The Sights Bon-E-Mail ATM; oppositethevisitorinformation centre. Bank ofNewZealand andaccommodation,including activities good farmstays. .info; 80RueLavaud; % visitorinformationcentre Akaroa Information the peninsula’s main industry. land wascleared andsoonfarmingbecame 548 h Motukarara 75 4 1 3 2 BANKS PENINSULA Ellesmere Taitapu 10.30am-4.30pm Oct-Apr, to4pmMay-Sep) 10.30am-4.30pm Oct-Apr, 03-304 8600; www.akaroa.com, www.bankspeninsula 03-304 8600;www.akaroa.com, 9am-8pm) Internet access. 75 Lake Halswell RUD CRSCUC • Aao h ak eisl AROUND &TheBanksPeninsula CHRISTCHURCH ••Akaroa 73 Akaroa Museum Akaroa Sign oftheKiwi CHRISTCHURCH

Governors Bay Gebbies Rd Pass Dyers (Map (Map p550 ;

Kaitorete Spit

AC Summit P ACIF Rd 74 Lagoon Kaituna O CEAN S OUTH Pass Takahe Sign ofthe Kaituna Rd

h Summit Rd Summit (Map (Map p550 ; Rue Lavaud)Withan 74 % 9am-5pm) Informationontours, Mt Herbert

Island Quail Lyttelton (920m)

Mp p550; (Map Marine Dr 03-304 7447;41RueLavaud; Christchurch

Lyttelton Harbour Brighton Gondola New Diamond Te OkaBay Lake Harbour Brighton South (Map (Map p550 ; Little River % Forsyth Sumner 03-304 1013; B Port Levy isspread Peraki Bay Pegasus Bay Island Ripapa Head Godley Montgomery Valley Okuti Cooptown Port Levy Hilltop Park Saddle Hill Pigeon Bay (841m) Barrys Bay 7158; www.treecropfarm.com; admission $10; playing board games.Adrink andsnackis veranda, magazines and or flickingthrough sheepskin-covered couches ontheramshackle tracks,relaxingwandering onestablished on This private wildernessgarden isperfect for Akaroa (take RueGrehan).road through 5pm ingoodweatheronly) and Akaroa community archives. 20-minute audiovisual onpeninsular history, Maori population, acourtroomdiorama, displays onthepeninsula’sonce-significant Ithasmodest Langlois-Eteveneaux. houses, by Daly’sWharf,andoneof NZ’soldest thetinyCustomHouse the oldcourthouse, over historicbuildings,including several Wainui 2 75 French Farm The quirky

1 Pigeon Bay

Reserve Hay Scenic

Onuku

Harbour Tikao Akaroa Duvauchelle 5 Peninsula

Onawe Su Onawe Pa Timutimu Onuku FarmHostel...... Okains BayCampingGround...... Halfmoon Cottage...... Double Dutch...... Maori &ColonialMuseum...... French FarmWinery&Restaurant.... Barrys BayCheese...... eBn a akakr...... D3 Le BonsBayBackpackers...... m SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES mit Head 8 Rd Menzies Bay Akaloa Little Bay Robinsons AKAROA Tree CropFarmTree Park Takamatua Garden Rutland's Heaton (809m) View Hill (759m) 6miles 10km 0 0 Little Akaloa is1.8kmoff themain Peninsula (Private) Bay Otepatotu Chorlton Banks Track Flea Bay Pohatu Marine 6 3 Stony Bay Ellangowan Park Le Bons 4 Okains Bay lonelyplanet.com Otanerito Bay 7 Bay Stony Bay Okains Bay D 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

C3 C3 C4 D2 C3 D2 D3 ( % h Le Bons Putakoto Head 03-304 Bay 10am- upmarket 42kmstrollacrossthree daysfrom Akaroa Harbour (12kmfrom Akaroa), is forget topacka loved one. ($299) andaspaare alsoavailable here. Don’t juice). Rusticandromanticaccommodation included intheadmissionprice(tryberry lonelyplanet.com that give Akaroa itscharacter. Audioguides in theoldwooden buildingsandchurches premises nearthemainwharf. Theroute takes and finishing attheoldTaylor’s Emporium 1876 atthe awalkingtour starting ($9.50) details tocarry only need a daypack. modation andlotsof gourmetfood.You’ll Christchurch toAkaroawithgoodaccom- www.tuataratours.co.nz; per person$1263) ers groundattwice thesame the speed. commodation. Atwo-dayoption($150)cov- includes transportfromAkaroaandhutac- dramatic coastlineof Peninsula; Banks cost walk acrossprivate farmlandandaroundthe perperson$225) .bankstrack.co.nz; visiting a colony. seal Harbour, touringaworkingsheep farmor the soundof onAkaroa jetboating or sailing the visitorinformationcentre ifyoulikeSee Activities sacred 15th-centurygodstickanda war canoe. tures areproduction Maori a house, meeting artefacts butwentpublic28years ago. Itfea- private collectionof indigenous andpioneer northeastofOkains Bay, Akaroa,beganasa Bay;adult/child$6/2; 8611; Okains alfresco served from midday. (late wood-fired OctobertoEaster) pizzasare orantipastoplatter.with acheese Insummer and allcrafted fromlocalgrapes)orunwind Chardonnay andPinotNoir($1pertaste of Franceambience. SampleFrench Farm’s 4pm) farm.co.nz; French Farm Valley Rd;pizza$22.50; & Restaurant snack. seaside and chutney are available foraspontaneous fine cheddar, Havarti andGouda. Crackers h Barrys BayCheese At Barrys Bay, onthewestern sideof Bay, At Barrys The The &ColonialMuseum Maori to Just westistheturn-off The 9am-5pm) , set inbeautifulgroundswithasouth , set Waeckerle Cottage Waeckerle Banks Peninsula Track Akaroa Walk Akaroa Akaroa –anHistoric Walk , where youcantaste andpurchase

Mp p548; (Map AROUND &TheBanksPeninsula CHRISTCHURCH ••Akaroa Mp p548; (Map

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Mp p548; (Map

( % 03-304 5809;BarrysBay; French Farm French Winery h 03-304 7612;www isaleisurely 10am-5pm) % booklet h 03-304 10am- at

$8/25) perhr/day$15/50,bikes 304 8709;64RueLavaud;seakayaks tion of overnight staying inasecluded cottage child $70/50)are alsoavailable withtheop- aking ($70)and4WDnature tours (peradult/ andJanuary. kay- September best between Sea $55/40). SpyingtheWhite-flippered penguinis penguin-viewing tours (peradult/child address. this tion centre they’ve incase uppedcampfrom planning amove, soaskatthevisitorinforma- transfer). TheAkaroaAdventure was Centre dolphin swimmingvideo($30includingdata cameras canalsobehired toshoot yourown all thewaytoAkaroa. Underwater digital Peninsula fromwhere youcanridedownhill the topof thevolcaniccrater aroundBanks (including bike hire) they’lltransportyouto fishing rodsandwindsurfinggear. For $39 minutes). 90 at thevisitorinformationcentre ($10per walkingtours are availablefor self-guided Pohatu Plunge The 11.30am Mar-Sep) onetourdaily tours daily6am-3.30pm, Oct-April, Wharf; 7641; www.blackcat.co.nz; Main Black Cat Cruises Dolphins Akaroa adult/child foracruiseonly. child foracruiseandswim,$60/35 per odds. Costsare around$110/90peradult/ ally swimmingwiththem,soit’spretty good dolphins, andan80%successrate inactu- have arounda98%successrate inseeing don’t gettoswimwiththedolphins. Cruises refundon thewater, ifyou andapartial on a2½-houroutingincludingtimeinand plus hotshowersbackondryland.Count gearareWet suitsandsnorkelling provided, only 10swimmerspertrip,sobookahead. companies operate year-round andcarry suming it’snotthecalvingseason).Both you swimmingalongsidethedolphins(as- isn’t enough,twocompaniesattempt to get If viewingthedolphinsonaharbourcruise dolphin,foundonlyinNZwaters.Hector’s world’s smallestandrarest dolphin,the The waters around are hometotheAkaroa SWIMMING WITHDOLPHINS Rd; 65Beach 03-304 7866;www.akaroadolphins.co.nz; rents kayaks,bikes, golfclubs, outsea h Akaroa Adventure Centre Adventure Akaroa 10.15am, 12.45pm&3.15pm) (www.pohatu.co.nz) (Map (Map p550 ; (Map (Map p550 ; % %

Mp p550; (Map runs evening runsevening 0800 990102, 03-304 h five % 549

03-

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY Heights is15minutes from Akaroa. Follow spectacular sceneryof Peninsulaspectacular Banks at $50; Outer BaysTours Outer Run BaysScenicMail Eastern Kayaks Sea Akaroa Tours and turnleftinto Haylocks Rd. the signstoOnukuMarae, continueuphill .onuku-heights.co.nz; 166HaylocksRd;from$120). HeightsHorseTreks Onuku thevisitor through information centre. Book ($20) inthePohutu Nature Reserve. 550 you’ll be kayaking upto you’ll bekayaking 14 km. fitnessisrequireddolphins, andfurseals. Reasonable as baysand(hopefully)spying exploring half-daytrips Offers hire perhalf-/fullday$35/50; kayak guidedtours$70, Beach Rd;www.akaroaseakayaks.co.nz; tours.com; tours$30-50; are onlyeight seats available. are essentialasthere visitor informationcentre; bookings the bays (beachfrontpicnic included). Theminibusdeparts along withthepostiestovisitisolatedcommunities and ofthepeninsula,andvisitorscantravel to remote parts 1 3 2 AKAROA Surround yourself withthebestof the h RUD CRSCUC • Aao h ak eisl AROUND &TheBanksPeninsula CHRISTCHURCH ••Akaroa kraVstrIfrainCnr. C2 Akaroa VisitorInformationCentre.. SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Tresori MotorLodge...... Old ShippingOffice...... Maison desFleurs...... La RiveMotel...... Garthowen...... Chez laMer...... Bon Accord...... Akaroa Top10HolidayPark...... Waeckerle Cottage...... Black CatCruises...... Akaroa SeaKayaks...... Akaroa Museum...... Akaroa HarbourCruises...... Akaroa Dolphins...... Akaroa AdventureCentre...... Bon-E-Mail...... Bank ofNewZealand...... 9am Mon-Sat) A 120km, 4½-hour delivery service 9am Mon-Sat)A120km,4½-hourdeliveryservice Akaroa Harbour AC ( % Mp p550; (Map h 0800 229786;www.outerbays Thu-Sun) Can tour you briefly Thu-Sun) Can touryoubriefly

( % Ὀ ( % % Lighthouse 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 h 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 0800 748732;www C3 C3 C3 D1 C2 C2 C2 D1 D1 B3 C3 C2 B3 C3 C2 C2 C2 03-304 8758; 03-304 8600;tour 9am Nov-Apr) ENTERTAINMENT EATING agoi...... C2 Vangionis...... Cine Café...... Ma MaisonDeli...... Harbour 71...... Four SquareSupermarket...... C'est laVie...... Bully Hayes...... (see20) Akaroa Fish&Chips...... Akaroa Bakery...... B Onuku Main Wharf 6 Aubrey Rd

ὈὈ ὈὈ Bruce Tce Bruce 9 Daly's Wharf Horse Treks(5km) To OnukuHeights 18 5 8 LandingPlace French Settlers 23 Childrens 16 a French later in Waiter’s Race the day. snails negotiate acompactcourse. There’s also Race D on) music andart.Don’t miss (orstand with anemphasisonfood,wine, late September Gallic-inspired get-together heldannuallyin FestFrench Akaroa adult/child$55/20; Wharf; .blackcat.co.nz; Main Cruises Black Cat Dolphins Akaroa guins, take aharbour cruise. To gospyHector’s dolphins andbluepen- Harbour Cruises way tospend four hours. h ofthepeninsula. TheEasternBaysTour($50; remote parts ($12foronehour)orgetyououttomore around Akaroa trips trips by arrangement. wildlife cruisesandbird-watching cruises,plusevening $60/30; 65BeachRd;adult/child 7866; www.akaroadolphins.co.nz; Mar-Sep) Two-hour cruisesviewingwildlife, cavesandcliffs. Two-hour Mar-Sep) onetourdaily11.30am tours daily6am-3.30pm,Oct-April, Festivals andEvents 20 26 French Bay 17 Bay

19 Selwyn Ave Selwyn War Memorial Custom House 1.30pm Saturday and Sunday) is a very spectacular 1.30pm SaturdayandSunday)isaveryspectacular Rue Jolie 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19

h Beach ’ Escargots C3 C2 C3 C2 D2 C3 C3 24

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h Morgans Rd Morgans Park (1.4km) Woodhills Track five Le Le colourful décorthat’sanything but bland. ings treat yourself totheTresori, withrich, cord.co.nz; 57RueLavaud;dm/d$25/60; good facilities;wellpricedconsideringeach accelerator forawhileandenjoysomelei- budget lodgings.Take thetravel yourfootoff Bons andOkainsare withexcellent blessed around Akaroa,butouter bayssuch asLe Sleeping Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels rooms, (almost) everything comes in twosrooms, (almost) everything terriers andfoursuper-comfortable en-suite vintage Citroën cars, twofriendlyJack Russell wen.co.nz; 7Beach Rd;d$260-280; good optionforfamiliesor two couples bedrooms, aspaandsunnypatiomake thisa age buildingwithaninteresting past.Two apartmentinrestored herit- Self-contained ChurchSt;d$200) www.akaroavillageinn.co.nz/index2.htm; $140/250; 304 7500;www.tresori.co.nz; cnrRueJolie&ChurchSt;d/qfrom barbecue. a on thetrampoline. Dadcanget creative on day ontheharbour,kidscanletoffsteam Ifit’sarough tions) isfullyself-contained. unit (studios,two-andthree-bedroom op- pi 1RueLavaud;d$80-160; 7651; www.holidayakaroa.com; are available, andit’sa TV-free zone. Free bikesoutdoor seating. andfishing rods with fishponds,hammocks,barbecueand kept roomsandashaded garden,complete $70/60; lamer.co.nz; 50RueLavaud;dm$25,dwith/without bathroom garden tobringoutyourinner French chef. withtwocosylounges andaherb-filledhouse called Boots.It’sacompact150-year-old and quirkybackpackers withacaninehost flash new deluxe cabins. versatile budget optionsforevery including parkhasgoodharbourviewsand pleasant connected byapathwaytoWoodhillsRd,this pi Rd; sites$32-36,on-sitevans$55,cabins&units$45-105; 96Morgans 525; 03-3047471;www.akaroa-holidaypark.co.nz; Top10HolidayPark Akaroa Akaroa surely days off the beaten track. PeninsulaMost Banks accommodationis Garthowen Old ShippingOffice MotorLodge Tresori Motel La Rive Chez laMer Bon Accord i ) ) Onaterraced hillsideabove townand Old-stylemotel withbigroomsand pi ) Friendlybackpackers withwell-

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Mp p550; (Map % % % %

03-304 7782;www.bon-ac 03-304 7419;www.gartho Mp p550; (Map 03-304 7024;www.chez pi 0800 247651,03-304 AROUND &TheBanksPeninsula CHRISTCHURCH ••Akaroa % % i 0800 273747,03- 0800 6952000; ) Colourful ) % With two 0800 727 .

8789; 1162 Okains BayRd;adult/child$8/5) 8789; 1162Okains so phone ahead. up off thebusfrom Christchurch. It’spopular bay are onoffer, andtheowners willpickyou cabins. Wildlife spottingtours ($35)on the orinmorefarmhouse, private, butsimpler lated valley.Kipdowneitherintherestored and aclaw-foot bath withviewsover aniso- lamb, farm-grown veggies andlocal seafood, a difference; like mealsof evening organic it’sthelittlethingsthatmake BonsBay Le dm/s/d $25/52/58; % some great walksonthe 340-hectare spread. so youshouldtrustthemwh family’sownedthefarmsince1860s, same for guestsandwillpickupfromAkaroa. The dolphins tours ($90)andkayakingtrips($40) Akaroa. Theowners organise swimming-with- on asheep farmnearOnuku,6kmsouthof (with basichuts,tent sites andacomfyhouse) Jun-Aug; Rd;dm/dfrom$25/88; .onukufarm.co.nz; Onuku for guest use. decorated andthere are free bikes andkayaks The rooms–mostlydoublesare warmly or inthehammocksdottinglushgardens. spend afew days,lazingonthebigverandas (12kmfromAkaroa)isablissful placeto Bay closed Jun-Sep) .halfmoon.co.nz; BarrysBay;dm/s/d$25/45/68; road. the general store afew hundred metres down camping ground’sentrance. There’s asmall showers. Pay atthe yourfees atthehouse kitchen facilities andcoin-operated hot peppered bythebeach, groundright with Ground BayCamping Okains Around BanksPeninsula why youdeserve to splurge. therapy productsandorganic juicesreinforce in traditionalFrench style. Premium aroma- atthisintimatestay two-person retreat built boring motel, or(b)ticktheromanticbox and but inacomfortable come toAkaroaandstay .maisondesfleurs.co.nz; 6ChurchSt;d$350) town. in deck comeswithasideorderof thebestview style usingrecycled cedar. Breakfast onthe at thisnewupscaleB&Brebuilt inheritage o Hostel Farm Onuku Halfmoon Cottage desFleurs Maison 03-304 8582;www.lebonsbay.co.nz; Le BonsBayRd; pi Le Bons Bay Backpackers Le BonsBayBackpackers This marvellous cottage at Barrys cottage atBarrys Thismarvellous ) Aneco-mindedbackpackers h Mp p550; (Map

closed mid-May–Sep; closed mid-May–Sep;

Mp p548; (Map (Map p548; (Map

Mp p548 ; (Map %

% % en they say there’sen theysay 0800 6952000;www 03-304 5050;www 03-304 7066;www You could(a) Pine-tree- pi

Mp p548; (Map % h h 03-304 closed often often 551 At )

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY river estuary.There’s ageneral store (andthe new spotisperched infarmlandonaquiet to beaB&B,butbudget-friendly, thisbrand lunch $10-20,dinnermains$20-30; 33 RueLavaud;mains$30-35; Bakery groper. Akaroa quette formealssuch aschermoula-rubbed wooden bar,before retiring toa leather ban- atthehugedining. Kickoff withacocktail cation combinetoproduceAkaroa’s classiest andawaterfront lo- Award-winning service Rd; mains$30-35; walls. the room toscrawlyourownglowingreview on following yourcrémecaramel,tryandfind and sions of Gallicgoodieslike green,a pétanque dishes upsuperiorver- popular andtinyeatery, aboutthesizeof available. also afternoon Takeaway orevening. pizzasare andwhile away the anoutsidetable Secure opened localfavourite whenwevisited. this Tuscan-styletrattoriathatwasanewly- beers andwinesallfeatureand Canterbury at noon Sat&Sun) pizza $15-17,mains$15-23; make itaworthwhileplace to linger. Monteith’s beers andagoodlocalwinelist and aleisurely finalstopinSpainfortapas. York forgourmetburgers, forpasta, Italy beforeAkaroa salmon touching downinNew the menuatthissunnyspotkicksoff with after awell-travelled Americanbuccaneer, hotcakes. blueberry yourdaywithdamnfinecoffee andStart andslices,plushomemadesoups. sandwiches housing acabinetfullof tempting pastries, Rd; meals$9-13 Deli Maison Ma Eating &Drinking friendly owners come from. kitchen. Noprizesforguessingwhere the to bringyourowningredients fortheflash beach) justashort walkaway,butyou’re best with/without bathroom$60/66; Bay;dm$25,d 32ChorltonRd,Okains .double-dutch.co.nz; 552 Double Dutch Harbour 71 o Vangionis Get yourself anall-daybreakfastGet at Bully Hayes escargot OT ATRUY CANTERBURY NORTH

Mp p550; (Map C’est laVie

Mp p550; (Map Thin-crust pizzas, tapas, pasta pasta Thin-crustpizzas,tapas, h

(snails).Whenyou’re replete Mp p550; (Map Mp p550; (Map

h Mp p550; (Map % 7.30am-4pm) Mp p548; (Map 3pm-late Mon-Sat,from11amSun) 03-304 7663; 51 Beach Rd; snacks & 03-304 7663; 51BeachRd;snacks&

Mp p550; (Map % % h % % pi

03-308 7144; Rue Brittan; 03-308 7144;RueBrittan; h 03-304 7533;57BeachRd; Gourmethotspot % 3pm-late Mon-Fri, from 3pm-late Mon-Fri, h 03-304 7656;71Beach 03-304 8774;67Beach 6pm Tue-Sat) 03-304 7229;www 8am-late) canard Posh enough Poshenough ) % 03-304 7314; Named (duck) This Akaroa Akaroa

Christchurch Peninsula exploringBanks

NORTH CANTERBURY $35). (from or 4.30pm daily. 8.45am, returning fromAkaroaat2.30pm departure fromtheChristchurch i-SITEat $15/20) bus.co.nz; one-way/return on aFriday.Bookings are recommended. extra departure fromChristchurch at4.30pm at 10.30am,3.35pmand4.30pm.There’s an at 8.30amand2pm,returning fromAkaroa side theChristchurch Sq i-SITEinCathedral $20/30) tle.co.nz; one-way/return The Getting There&Away and partcinemashowing flicks. arthouse part caféwithexcellentsoupsandpastries, Ave;cnr RueJolie&Selwyn adult/child$13/9; Cine Café Entertainment Lavaud; $5-8; Fish &Chips meals $5-15; 314 6777; SH1, north ofWaipara) 314 6777;SH1, north vineyard restaurants. stop forlunch atone of thespectacular eries. SampleaPinot Noirorrieslingand Waipara Valley value platters ($30)are also on offer. them allfor$8.80.Gourmetpizzas and good Amberley craftsfourdifferent beers; sample $18-30; ( See www.hurunui.com. anddointhisregion. outlines thingstosee The SH7 toHanmer Springs,athermalresort. 27km fromCulverden from istheturn-off country andreaches Culverden. About flatfarmingnorth toHurunuithrough east toKaikoura, whileSH7branches due Waipara. Fromhere SH1continuesnorth- WoodendandAmberleyto 57km through From Christchurch, SH1headsnorthfor % A few kilometres upSH1,the scenic The Both companiesrunscenictours from Connection French The 03-314 0830; 150 Ashworths Rd,Amberley;mains 03-314 0830;150Ashworths h Akaroa Shuttle Akaroa Alpine Pacific Triangle Touring GuideAlpine Pacific Touring Triangle h h Four Square supermarket FourSquare 10am-7pm Sun-Thu, 10.30am-8pmFri & Sat).

Mp p550; (Map Brew Moon Garden Café &Brewery Café MoonGarden Brew 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) 10.30am-10.30pm Wed-Sun)

h (Map p550 ; p550 (Map 7am-4pm) ishometoover adozenwin- Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % (

% %

( , or takeaways from , ortakeaways 03-304 7678;www.cinecafe.co.nz; % 0800 500929;www.akaroashut 03-304 7464; 59 Beach Rd; meals 03-304 7464;59BeachRd;meals Waipara Springs hasa good deli. 0800 800575;www.akaroa , departsfromout- hasayear-round Pegasus Bay

Mp p5 Rue p550; (Map on SH75in h 3-10pm)

( (

Akaroa Akaroa % % 03- 03- is

daily for wine tasting and sales, andall andsales, daily forwinetasting .hurunui.com; 42 Amuri Ave;.hurunui.com; 42Amuri accommodation, transport and activities. There isalsoa andactivities. accommodation, transport Jacks Pass Rd; hv restaurant-cafés. have .themudhouse.co.nz; SH1, southofWaipara) Waipara) Rd,southof 314 6869;www.pegasusbay.com;Stockgrove lonelyplanet.com Waitapu Waitapu (Sacred Waters). on theNorthIsland; Maoris call thesprings the skyafter aneruptionof MtNgauruhoe springs are thefires of Tamatea that fell from years. Locallegend hasitthatthethermal Pass Rd;adult/child$12/6; 527, 03-3150029;www.hanmersprings.co.nz; entryonJacks Pools&Spa Thermal HanmerSprings Visitors have soakinginthewaters been of THERMAL RESERVE Sights Café Powerhouse bank Hurunui i-SITE Hanmer Computers Information treks and jetboating. tivities includeforest walks,minigolf,horse of goodrestaurants, andfamily-friendly ac- spa complex.Grown-upswillenjoyacouple in pamperingthehotpoolsandaflashnew low-keyfolk. It’sapleasantly spot toindulge is aweekend destinationforChristchurch swell thepopulationyear-round, asHanmer the SouthIsland,is10kmoff SH7.Visitors Hanmer Springs,themainthermalresort on pop 750 HANMER SPRINGS are located closeby. thelocalpubandgeneraltion house’; store riages, andcookyourownmealsinthe‘sta- camp, bunkdowninconverted traincar- $20/24, dm/s/dfrom$20/27/40) .sleepers; 12GlenmarkDr;unpowered/powered sites Sleepers dish. each produce andsuggests winestocomplement The menutakes advantage of superb local tion willmake youthinkyou’re inEurope. amid alovely garden.Asmidgen of imagina- h Bank of New Zealand ATM BankofNewZealand The Near theintersection withSH7is noon-4pm) ( h andthe

Pegasus Bayrestaurant ( 10am-2pm Mon-Fri). % h has an old-world ambience set hasanold-worldambienceset 03-314 6003;www.inet.net.nz/~waipara ( % 9am-1pm Tue-Sat) Internet access ( p555 ) NORTH CANTERBURY••HanmerSprings NORTH Mud House Mud 0800 733426,03-3157128;www ( % h

a wi-fi. Has 03 3157226,03-3157128;14 h ( 10am-9pm) h 10am-5pm) Books

, where you can ( % 9am-9pm) 03-314 6900;www

forover 100 (mains $26-35,

( are open % 0800 873 Waipara $6/1.50) frs allowed). fires h iST hs eal o lne tramps, longer of details has i-SITE The Lookout andthen backtoConicalHillRd. Walk lar andredwood Itjoinsthe stands. Douglas fir,pop- through town, andgoes Walk picturesquethrough forest. Theeasy ($2) outlinesshort walksneartown,mostly transport. operates p90 ). TheHanmer SpringsAdventure Centre away. They’re cheaper thanlarger resorts (see from town,and Field Ski Springs biking maps($2)are available at the i-SITE. $25) andskisnowboardgear. Mountain (per hour/day$19/45),fishing rods(perday 5pm) Rd; www.hanmeradventure.co.nz; 20ConicalHill Centre Adventure HanmerSprings Activities ‘no frills’ option. clude apicniclunch andthere isafive-hour stretching northtoStArnaud.Daytours in- of andtheremote thestation private land .co.nz; tours$125-495; 7am to7pm,andovernight hours; note thatthegates are onlyopenfrom backcountryroadtakesunsealed aroundsix Springs northtoBlenheimonthisnarrow, weather permitting.Thedrive fromHanmer isopenfromlatestation DecembertoMarch, the possible whentheAcheron Rdthrough control.Visitsare usuallyonly under DOC independent visitstoMolesworthwhich is (up to10,000).Inquire atthei-SITEabout farm withthecountry’slargest cattleherd at180,500hectares,Station, isNZ’slargest Northeast of Hanmer Springs, Molesworth MOLESWORTH STATION ments from $45. ($5). Thespahasmassage andbeautytreat- a familyactivityarea includingawaterslide hour), massage facilities,arestaurant, and pool, private suites sauna/steam ($22perhalf- landscaped rockpools,afreshwater 25mlap tures. Inaddition tomineralpools,there are water toproducepoolsof varyingtempera- The Trailways Safaris The hotspringwater mixes withfresh- There are twoskiingareas nearby. booksactivities,andrents bikes mountain starts fromJolliesPass starts Rd,1kmfrom (1½ hours), which leads toConicalHill ispermitted areas incertain (noopen Hanmer Forest Recreation is the closest, 17km (unsealed) 17km(unsealed) istheclosest, h

( Mt Lyford Ski Field Mt LyfordSki % Oct-May) 03-315 7401;www.molesworth offers 4WD tours camping

( % pamphlet 03-315 7233; is60km (adult/child

Woodland h Hanmer Majuba Majuba

553 9am-

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY trips up into the hills, and along (and across) trips upintothehills,andalong(and across) .co.nz; $110) 2½hrtrips and Jollies Passes. anorganised ride($89) upoveralso does Jacks offers trail maps,adviceandbike rental, and Hanmer SpringsAdventure (see Centre p553 ) region biking–the isalsopopularformountain the Hanmer River; minimumage is16.The lead onaponyfor30 minutes ($20). minutes fromtown.Younger children canbe treks adult/child$90/70) .co.nz; adult/child$45/35,2½hr 187RogersonRd;1hrrides ( SH7.Another meets Springs turn-off centre, next tothebridge where theHanmer $95/50). BookattheThrillseekers Canyon to III)downtheWaiauRiver (adult/child $89/50) orgowhite-water rafting(gradeII ($119), jetboattheWaiauGorge (adult/child Hanmer Springs. bridgeBungy off a35m-high erscanyon.co.nz; SH7) to the west. SumnerForest inLake including those Park 554 % 1 3 2 HANMER SPRINGS Hanmer Horses Canyon Thrillseekers BackTrax

03-315 7346; The Mall; 03-315 7346;TheMall; Jacks Pass Rd Pass Jacks OT ATRUY • amrSrns CANTERBURY••HanmerSprings NORTH Horses (1km) To Hanmer

Dor Hanmer Springs 11 set St

Rippingale Rd

( Devon St AC % Golf Club 0800 422258,03-3157633;www.backtrax

( % organises guidedquad-bike is theadrenaline centre of

isinaforested 10 setting

Clarence Valley Rd Valley Clarence Argelins Rd Argelins 03-315 7444;www.hanmerhorses (

h % (Via Jacks Pass)

10am-6pm) 03-315 7046;www.thrillseek

Thrillseekers Canyon(9km); Lucas La Lucas Ski Field(17km) To HanmerSprings Lake SumnerForestPark To HanmerSpringsRd; Christchurch (135km); Mt Lyford(60km);

is in town. Jacks Pass Rd Pass Jacks B

Chisholm Cres 5 office

10 St James Ave 16 14 3

ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ

21 1

2 Conical Hill Rd Hill Conical Amuri Ave Amuri 18 4

Amuri Ave Hill Lookout To Conical Leamington St Leamington Bath St Rd Hill Conical

7 Caverhill Cl

Cheltenham St Cheltenham 12 St Harrogate 15

surrounding Hanmer. Ifyou’re feeling abit Hagglund vehicles intotheforests andhills Chalet Cres Ruthe Ave

[email protected]; 41 Conical Hill Rd;dm/d$25/56; 41ConicalHill [email protected]; Alpine Conical Hill Rd;adult/childfrom$40/30) Conical Hill nal backpackers hasabarbecue area for i if it’s full. There are twomore campinggroundsintown room motel supplied. unitswitheverything totwo-bed-basic cabins(BYOeverything) for rent (perhour$10).Take yourpickfrom bikesplayground, trampolineandmountain Kidswilllovefrom thethermalreserve. the i unpowered/powered sites$26/32,cabins&motels$45-120; 545, 03-3157113;www.mountainviewtop10.co.nz; BathSt; Top10HolidayPark Mountain View Sleeping fishing trips. and town, includingkayaking,scenicflights available. also option($150 gung-ho, thenaself-drive 20 9 19 6

The Mall Jollies Pass Rd

13 Hanmer Backpackers Other activitiesare possibleinandaround Hot Tracks rford ) ) Family-friendly parkafew minutes’ walk Centrally located, thetownship’sorigi- Centrally 8 Woodland

Scarborou Cres

Bristol Walk St

gh Tce Forest Majuba Heritage To Molesworth

Hanmer View Station (80km) Forest

Dog Stream Area Squirrel ὈὈ ὈὈ Lake

(

% Walk Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 021 718551;www.hottracks.co.nz; 0 0 Mountain ViewTop10 Hanmer SpringsThermal Hanmer SpringsAdventure Entry toHanmerSprings Powerhouse Café...... (see21) Powerhouse Café...... Pickled Pig...... Malabar Restaurant&Bar.... Hanmer SpringsBakery...... Four SquareSupermarket..... Alpine VillageInn...... Tussock PeakMotorLodge.. Scenic ViewMotels...... Rosie's...... HolidayPark...... Le Gîte...... Kakapo Lodge...... Hanmer Backpackers...... Cheltenham House...... Thrillseekers CanyonOffice... Hot Tracks...... Pools&Spa...... Centre...... ThermalPools&Spa...... Hurunui i-SITE...... Hanmer Computers...... Bank ofNZATM...... (see2) EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION

( % 03-315 7196;hanmer take all-terrain D

( % 0800 904 0.3 miles 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 500 m 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B2 C3 C2 B2 B2 B2 C3 B3 C3 C3 A2 B3 C2 C3 C2 C2 B2 B2 B2 B3 B2 ) is gardens andalovely lounge area are draw- the centre. Large rooms(nobunks),relaxing old converted homea10-minute walkfrom dm $25,dwith/withoutbathroom$66/54; climes. cooler andacosylogfirelazy summernights for lonelyplanet.com meals $8.50-16.50; the roadfor alfresco snacking. Hanmer Springs.There’s asmallpark across inrapidlymodernising of oldNewZealand or agourmetpieatthisplacethat’s ataste Rd; pies$4.50; Bakery Hanmer Springs Eating crowds uptheroadwithprivate hot tub. pre-dinnerplimentary apéritifs.Avoid the there’s grandpianoandcom- abilliardtable, breakfasts canbedelivered toyourroom,and bathroom andtwoingardencottages. Cooked six snooze-inducingsuites, allwithprivate pi ham.co.nz; 13CheltenhamSt;s$160-200,d$190-230; balconies. or one- ortwo-bedroom units,spas,courtyards part ischoosing whatkindof room:studio, motels onHanmer’s maindrag.Thehardest ful décorthat’saneclecticcutabove other d $125-145,q$195; Ave cnrAmuri 5191; www.tussockpeak.co.nz; &Leamington St; views come as standard. and three-bedroom apartments.Mountain plex withmodern,colourfulstudiosandtwo- pi Ave; 10Amuri www.hanmerscenicviews.co.nz; d$120-180; en-suite or shared facilities. reader-recommended spot.Roomsoffer either ing great atthiswelcoming Kiwihospitality nally fromAustralia,butshe’s nowoffer- Cheltenham St;s$50,d$80-130; and units withTV cooking facilities. with bathroom)are joinedbymotel-style and anoutdoordeck.Bunk-free dorms(some and lounge, chill-busting underfloorheating, YHA-affiliated Kakapo hasaroomykitchen .co.nz; Ave; 14Amuri dm$26,d$56-86; with private bathroom. cards; forextraprivacy,bookagarden‘chalet’ Powerhouse Café Café Powerhouse House Cheltenham Tussock Peak MotorLodge Rosie’s Lodge Kakapo Scenic View Motels Scenic View Le Gîte ) ) Anattractive timber-and-stone com- Superb,centrallylocated B&Bwith ( % ( % h 03-315 5111;www.legite.co.nz; St; 3Devon 03-315 7095;[email protected];9 6am-4pm) h p

NORTH CANTERBURY••Lewis Pass NORTH Highway ( % 8am-4pm, open lateThu-Satinsum- ) (

% Tussock Peak hascolour-

(

% ( 03-315 7472;stay-kakapo@xtra

( % % Grab a takeaway coffee Grabatakeaway 03-315 5252;6JacksPass Rd; 0800 8439748,03-3157419; 03-315 7545;www.chelten 03-315 7714; 16 Conical Hill 03-315 7714;16ConicalHill ( p % ) Rosiewasorigi- 0800 8877625,03-315 i i This spartan Thisspartan ) Charming ) itself – it can pick you up or set youdownat –itcanpickyouuporset itself gointoHanmerunhelpfully, doesn’t Springs Passand WestportviatheLewis but,rather the DOC pamphlet the DOC trees growingalong river terraces. with mainlyred andsilver andkowhai beech, forest asArthur’sandHaast asdense Passes, The 907m-high Pass, Maruia SpringsandJunction. from theHanmer toLewis Springsturn-off beautiful PassLewis west Hwy(SH7)wiggles At thenorthernendof LEWIS PASSHIGHWAY town. of the Hanmer Springsturn-off, 10km south thatrunsbetween has aservice ($36 fromChristchurch) on request. PassLewis andwillstopatHanmer Springs Christchurch andNelsonthattravels via ernlink.co.nz) daily) andKaikoura ($33, three weekly). Hanmer SpringstoChristchurch ($30,three Hanmer Connection Getting There&Away 9am-7pm Sat,10am-5.30pm Sun). supermarket menu isavailable, priced from $9to$12. ice cream andsorbets.Alimited takeaway flavouredanise duck.Leave roomforsuperb four different andstar curriesorthemustard Bangalore. TrytheMalabar thalishowcasing tery presents to Asian cuisinefromBeijing Rd;mains$28-32; Hill picnic-friendly deli offerings. a Japanese accentatthisversatile spot with gelato with andexcellentsushi.It’sItalian $14-22; Kids have theirown tyke-sized menu. viewsfromasunnydeck. zel andmountain Look forwardtoT-bone steak, chicken schnit- lar pubalsooffers good-value bistromeals. mains $10-22; network. wi-fi organic fairtradecoffee asyoujumpontheir Country breakfast, orlinger forlunch andan mer) East WestCoach Southern LinkCoaches canstockupatthe Self-caterers &Bar Restaurant Malabar Pickled Pig The area hassomeinteresting tramps;see Inn Alpine Village Recharge yourbatteries withahuge High h 11am-8pm) operates a daily service between between operates a daily service h

(Conical Hill Rd; (Conical Hill

( % 11am-11pm) Lewis Pass h 03-315 7441; Shop 4, The Mall; pizza 03-315 7441;Shop4,TheMall;

( ( Pizza, pasta, homemade Pizza,pasta, ( % % % 5.30pm-late) Lae Sumner/Lewis Pass (

0800 242663) 0800 142622,03-7896251) 03-315 7005;10JacksPass Rd; % Hanmer’s mostpopu- theSouthernAlps, ( h

is not as steep orthe isnotassteep % 0508 458835;www.south 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, 03-315 7745;5Conical This elegantea-

Christchurch runsfrom Four Square Four Square

555

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY of Arthur’s Pass. Thepark hasmanywalk- northwest of Christchurch and42kmsouth fromSH73,thisforestAccessed parkis 110km CRAIGIEBURN FOREST PARK Methven. and SH73 andSH77)istheMtHutt ski resort Pass. Southwestof Christchurch (reached by PearsonLakes andGrasmere toArthur’s Rivers and ing theWaimakaririandBealey and Craigieburnskiingareas before follow- then escalates rapidlyintothePorter Heights the roadtraverses Plainsand theCanterbury soquickly.FromChristchurchthe mountains the over Arthur’sPass iscovered and bybuses crossing fromChristchurch toGreymouth Arthur’s Pass NationalPark. Thetrans-island Two hours westfromChristchurch onSH73is CENTRAL CANTERBURY Springs Junctionhasapetrolstation and café. anddowntoGreymouth. ues westtoReefton SH6nearMurchison,meet whileSH7contin- Shenandoah Hwy(SH65)branches northto 45 minutes $25) are available. (perperson$45/65) andprivate spahouses for summer. Massages (per30minutes/one hour winter in snowfall,butmindthesandflies duringarock pools.It’samagicalsetting traditional Japanese andoutdoor bathhouse 9pm) the pools), acafé-bar andaJapanese restaurant. In (accommodation includesadmission tothe turn-off. Ithaspricey,nondescriptunits of theMaruia River, 69kmfromtheHanmer 259; .co.nz; SH7;sitesperadult/child$20/10,d$159-199,f$239- off. heading SumnerareaWindy PointfortheLake before ofat thestart theStJames Walkwayandat conditions apply;signtheintentions book Pass Subalpine in theLewis NationalReserve. the Sumner The mostpopulartrampsare around lakes, andrivers.mountains, andalpinetarns beech forest withabackdropof snow-capped Recreation 556 Maruia Springs Maruia Nowhere else in NZ does the coast rise to thecoast rise Nowhere inNZdoes else SH7 continuesto i St JamesWalkway thermal pools TranzAlpine water ispumpedintoasex-segregated ETA ATRUY • riibr oetPr CENTRAL CANTERBURY••CraigieburnForest Park ) in the Lake SumnerForest intheLake Park and isasmallthermalresort onthebanks ($1). Mosttrackspassthrough

(adult/child/family $15/8/40; ( % train (see p504 ). (66km;three tofive days) 03-523 8840;www.maruiasprings Springs Junction Springs , where the , where the h Lake Lake 8am- High-country sheep station 44kmeastof station sheep High-country .smylies.co.nz; Main Rd, Springfield; dm$22,d$50-85; .smylies.co.nz; Rd,Springfield; Main Flock Hill Lodge Flock Hill Sleeping &Eating Flock Hill station. countryofits climaticbattlesceneinthehigh also filmedinthearea. Thelatter movie set The Lion, the Witch &the Wardrobe of the Rings climbers andboulderers. Scenesfromthe prominent limestoneoutcropsloved byrock isinthe (50c). Thereserve brochurethe DOC thepitch-blackthrough cave. get Fordetails, per person etc)ifdoingtheone-hourwalk precautionsthe necessary sources (twolight with asmallwaterfall atoneend.Take all ScenicReserve Stream the Broken River bridge tothesouthis suit theadvancedskier; see p91 . NZ’s bestskiingareas. Itswild-countryslopes (Leucogenes grandiceps) afeweven patches of SouthIslandedelweiss andturpentinescrub, tussock, totara ing. Dominatingthevegetation isbeech, forskiingandrockclimb- is alsosuitable Day Walks pamphlet the DOC see valleys westof theCraigieburnRange; ing tracks,withlonger trampspossibleinthe Just 12km eastof Arthur’s Pass, is tinyBealey s/d withshared facilities$50/60,motel$110-165; trekking. horse year-round activitiesinclude jetboatingand and skifieldtransportare provided. Nearby units are available. Inwinter, skiequipment motel rooms. Ahandfulof self-contained tatsu family there isapopularJapanese bath, a east of Craigieburn.RunbyaDutch-Japanese the townof Springfield,around30kmsouth- pi recharge inthe cosy bar-restaurant. biking,relaxing, exploringandmountain and or large cottages withkitchenette. After fish- groups canoptfortwo-bedroom motel units inrusticshearers’stay quarters, whilelarge the CraigieburnForest Park. Backpackers can Arthur’s Pass, Pearson adjacenttoLake and SH73; tentsitesperperson$12,dm/d$25/120; Bealey Hotel Smylie’s Accommodation theentrancetoforest parkand Between Craigieburn has a rise ofCraigieburn hasarise 503msoisoneof (footwarmer)andsomefuton-equipped ) WelcomingYHA-associated hostel in ($1).Thesurroundingcountry trilogyand (

% ( % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 03-318 9277;www.bealeyhotel.co.nz; 03-318 8196; www.flockhill.co.nz; 03-318 8196;www.flockhill.co.nz; Cave Stream ScenicReserve , witha594m-longcave Craigieburn Forest Park: Chronicles of Narnia: .

( % Castle Hill area Hill Castle 03-318 4740;www pi pi were with Cave Lord ko- ) )

Rd, Sheffield;pies$3-5; but goeasyinthebartoavoid imagining pine viewsfromtheMad Moarestaurant, 10 doublesrooms.There are expansive al- motel unitsandthebudget MoaLodge with a rockyoutcrop.There are self-contained on standing hence thebogusBigBirdstatue 1993. He areal reckoned live he’dseen famous forahoaxbythelocalpubownerin lonelyplanet.com local accommodation andtransport informa- butcanhelpwith bookings orreservations, makehut-lined tramps. Itdoesn’t onward park tramps,including route guidesforlonger SH73; 318 9211;www.apinfo.co.nz, [email protected]; Information trip fromGreymouth or Christchurch. National Park. long)day It’sagood (though views andwinter-time skiing inArthur’sPass 1923. in trade demandedarailway,dulycompleted butlaterwithin ayear, onthecoalandtimber Christchurch. Acoach roadwascompleted for acrossingover theSouthernAlpsfrom the Westlandgoldrush created theneed was madebyArthurDobsonin1864,when to reach Westland,butitsEuropeandiscovery byMaoris The924mpasswasused settlement. nameandisNZ’shighest-altitude the same Arthur’s Pass village is4kmfromthepass of pop 62 ARTHUR’S PASS ing Arthur’s Pass. beforeEssential orafter negotiatingthewind- of turnsoutsomeof Sheffield NZ’sbestpies. bakery Plainshamlet inthequietCanterbury walking, bird-watching and canoeing. ofclassy catalogue soft adventure including bothafterYou’ll need divingintothelodge’s room rate are breakfast andagourmetdinner. baths feel more even remote. Includedinthe studioswithprivatenewly builtstandalone spa atmosphere,solute middle-of-nowhere and the world’slongest driveway produceanab- 16km eastof Arthur’sPass. Alpineviewsand (2400hectares station worth), speckled sheep pi lodge.co.nz; SH73;s$475-690,d$720-980; wildlife. phantom DOC Arthur’s Pass visitorinformationcentre DOCArthur’s The town is a handy base fortramps,climbs, The townisahandybase Original SheffieldPieShop Original Wilderness Lodge h ) Luxuriouslodge beech- onamountain 8.30am-4.30pm) CENTRAL CANTERBURY •• Arthur’s Pass CENTRALCANTERBURY••Arthur’s h ( % hasinformation onall 11am-6pm) 03-318 9246;www.wilderness

( % Thisroadside 03-318 3876; Main 03-318 3876;Main h closed Jun-Jul; Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ ὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈ Ὀ (

% moa 03- , wonderful viewsabove the altar. isthesmallinterfaith Near DOC Sights &Activities party a search being organised. ing out.Signinagainafter returning toavoid and filloutanintentions cardbefore ventur- weather conditions.Checkconditionshere advice onthepark’soften savagely changeable alsooffer invaluable DOC ($25) fromDOC. $20 refundable deposit)andlocatorbeacons 1888 Cobb & Co coach. Pass andhasexcellentdisplays–check outthe (adult/child $1/free) onthehistoryof Arthur’s tion. Thecentre screens a17-minute video

Avalanche Traverse Start ofBealey/Lyell/

ARTHUR'S PASS

Avalanche Peak Avalanche The Arthur’sPass Store hasinternet access. Hire topomaps($1perday,with detailed YHA Backpackers Track

Mountain House ὈὈ SouthernὈὈ Alps ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Scotts Education Arthur's Pass Outdoor

& Cottages

Centre West Coast Rd Coast West Arthur's Pass Track Creek Shelter (20km);Greymouth(99km) To TempleBasin(4km);Kelly Information Store Centre Chapel Visitor

DOC Mt Bealey River Bealey Mountain Cottages House Café Bar Wobbly Kea Shelter Public

Track Telephones Public To KlondykeCorner(8km);

73 Rough Creek Rough Christchurch (149km)

Mt Aitken Track (8.5km) Entrance toOtiraTunnel 200m 0.1miles 0 0

Bealey (12km); Arthur's Pass

Motels Alpine TranzAlpine Creek Devils Punchbowl National Park

Southern Alps Arthur's Pass Railway chapel Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ Ὀ

, with

557

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY hills.co.nz) November to April. also available. Bookings recommended from cottages withcosyopenfirescontained are provides transporttotrailheads( right ). Self- of information onlocalactivities,andalso liest youthhostels. Theownerisawealth ear-road inwhatwasoneof NewZealand’s roomsacrossthe older, butstillcomfortable vate roomsononesideof and thehighway, $200; s/d/tr/q $67/70/93/106,cottagesleepingup to10from ( the water must beboiled before drinking. 20km tothenorthwest;bothhave toiletsand 8km southof Arthur’sPass, and isfree at and toilets.Camping where there’sDOC, stream water, asink,tables basic withinArthur’sPassCamp townshipatthe Sleeping &Eating p90. experiences. bush $80) andlonger and personalisedmountain and bird-watching (twotothree hours, to five hours, $100),guidednature walks first. DOC and theweatherisextremely changeable; ask as floodingcanmake therivers dangerous cult (two days)andthelonger andmore diffi- alpine backdropsincludethe Longering mountains. trampswithsuperb for fittrampers isthe alpine flowers are blooming.Recommended best fromNovember toFebruary whenthe ant Peak Temple Basin PunchbowlWaterfall Devils walkstoscenicplacesincluding ($2) details leaflet in thedriermonths (January toApril).The areas for camping.Trampingisbest suitable are hutsonthetrampingtracksandseveral isMtMurchisonthe highest (2400m).There capped peaks,manyof themover 2000m; 558 the WaimakaririRiver valleyandsurround- to sixhours return) withexpansive viewsof tracks require previous trampingexperience % Day trampsoffer 360-degree viewsof snow- Mountain House YHA Backpackers &Cottages Mountain HouseYHABackpackers There’s alsoskiingatTemple see Basin; Home In the Hills Home IntheHills 03-318 9258;www.trampers.co.nz; SH73; dm$27-29, Dobson Nature Walk Dobson Nature (six to eight hours (sixtoeight return). Thepleas- Harman Pass pi ETA ATRUY • ehe CENTRAL CANTERBURY••Methven public shelter Walks in Arthur’s PassWalks inArthur’s National Park offers shortalpineencounters (three ) (three hours return) and hasexcellentdormsandpri- and (

% (adult/child $5/free) Harpers Pass Tracks 03-318 9220;www.homeinthe (30minutes return) is Bealey SpurTrack (onehourreturn), Klondyke Corner Klondyke Goat Pass Track Kelly Shelter Kelly ,

opposite Avalanche . These . These (four

, ,

h viaduct hasremoved manyof thetreacherous ing andvery Otira butthespectacular steep, Arthur’s Pass. theboxed See text, p504 . Christchurchbetween andGreymouth via Scenic Arthur’s Pass Store. 2coast.co.nz) .co.nz) Shuttles Atomic Christchurch ($25) andGreymouth ($25); Arthur’s Pass travelling buses between sees Getting There&Around Greymouth. or rol are very expensive; fillupinChristchurch good breakfasts. Limited groceriesandpet- available. also steaks, andpizza. pasta Takeaway pizzais &Sat) to 11.30pmFri ( library. DVD andagood you’re snowedinthere’s SkyTV storage isavailableCar ($3per day),andif d $105-125; Alpine Motel .co.nz; St; 121Main i-SITE Methven centre Medical Bank ofNewZealand Information tramping, fishing and skydiving. warm-weather activitiesincludingballooning, try, anda‘whatshall Ido today?’range of accommodation thanelsewhere inthecoun- option withquieter (andusuallycheaper) ting youdown,Methven townisalaid-back isget- NZ duringthepeaksummerseason Hutt. Ifthehustleandbustleof travelling in with snow-sportsfansheadingtonearbyMt Methven isbusiestinwinter, whenitfillsup pop 1140 METHVEN and ski fields. tomostof thewalkingtracks transport service Backpackers House ( at Mountain left ), offers a bends. hairpin % The roadover thepasswasoncewind- The The The village’s defactopubisthe Mountain HouseShuttle 7am-7pm; In thesouthernpartof town, 03-318 9101;SH73;meals$10-24; and

( % TranzAlpine Arthur’s Pass Store Arthur’s Coastto pi stophere. Bustickets are soldatthe 0800 872467;www.tranzscenic.co.nz)

i ( % ( ( % %

) h ( ) sells sandwiches, piesand sandwiches, sells Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels has comfortable motel units. hascomfortable 338 23 wwaa.on; SH73; www.apam.co.nz; 9233; 03-318 , a friendly café-bar serving , afriendlycafé-bar serving % 03-302 8105; Main St) 03-302 8105;Main 03-302 8955;www.amazingspace (Main St)WithATM; (Main nearthe i-SITE. 8am-6pm daily May-Oct, 9am- 8am-6pm daily May-Oct, 03-349 0697;www.atomictravel trainoperated by

( %

(

% ( 0800 800847;www.coast % 03-318 9258) h 03-318 9235;SH73; 8.30am-10.30pm, Arthur’s Pass Arthur’s Wobbly Kea , based , based runs Tranz

4WD. Prices start at$150for 4WDtransport 4WD. Pricesstart can take youtouncrowdedclubskifieldsby St & Forest Dr; golf clubs per day $12, mountain bikes per St &Forest Dr;golfclubsperday$12,mountainbikes lonelyplanet.com .com; Pudding Hill Airfield) Airfield) .com; Pudding Hill tre. ing and lunch. only; $270gets you transport, aliftpass,guid- Safaris safety equipmentandlunch. including five powder runs,guideservice, $825; ing.co.nz; St;daytrips Main $12/39) hr/day Sports NZ. in ting), often of thelongest anyresort skiseason toOctober,of weatherpermit- skiing(June Nearby Activities PC House available. Internet andactivities. transport packages, accommodation, skiing &11am-4pmSatSunNov-Apr; 5pm Mon-Fri 1 3 2 METHVEN Nearby Pudding Hill isaskydivingcen- Heliskiing Methven For ski rental and advice see For skirental andadvicesee Skydiving NZ Medical Centre...... Bank ofNZ(ATM)...... Methven Travel...... Cinema Paradiso...... Supervalue Supermarket...... Last Post...... Canterbury Hotel...... Café PrimoeSecundo...... Blue Pub...... Arabica...... Skiwi House...... Redwood Lodge...... Mount TaylorLodge...... Methven CampingGround.... Breckenridge Lodge...... Big TreeLodge...... (see13) Beluga Lodge...... Alpernhorn Chalet...... Adventures Inn...... Methven Heliskiing...... Big Al'sSnowSports...... PC House...... Methven i-SITE...... TRANSPORT ENTERTAINMENT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION ae11...... C2 Cafe 131......

( % ( Hobbs Rd % Mount Hutt (McMillan St)Forinternetaccess. (McMillan 03-302 9696;www.blackdiamondsafaris.co.nz) . AC 03-302 8003;www.bigals.co.nz; cnrMain CENTRALCANTERBURY••Methven

( % (see (see p90 ) offers five months offer jumpsfrom tandem

03-302 9143;www.skydivingnz ( % 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 03-302 8108;www.heliski 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 h D2 C2 C2 D3 C2 D2 C2 C2 D2 C2 C2 C3 C2 D1 B3 C1 B1 C3 D3 C2 C2 C2 Jul-Sep) Hill (15km) To Pudding Black Diamond Big Al’sSnow offer trips B i Patton St

) Books Colcord Pl 10 Morgan St 8

Cameron St Cameron 9

302 9143;www.nzskydivingschool.com)

Forest Dr Forest Alford St Chapman St Chapman te gorge. the $65) $68) AlpineJet Gorge good picnicspots aroundthebridge. just southof thebridge onSH77.There are four hours return), beginningatthecarpark land andtheimpressive crossing many walkingtrails,includingthe water- There areBush Rdleadstobothreserves. cess forPuddingHillStream, andMcLennan’s cess roads:PuddingHillRdleadstofootac- the Adjoining itare the beech;it’s14kmwestofmountain Methven. a champagne breakfast. rious viewsof snowcapped peaksandendwith .nzballooning.co.nz; flights$345) Balloon Safaris courses starting at $395. 3000m ($265),andthe

Alington St 14 Allen St Allen Wayne Pl Ave Racecourse There’s farm- agood,easywalkthrough The More are sedate with balloonflights bothdo40-minute jetboat tripsthrough and

Pudding Hill ScenicReserve Pudding Hill

13 Jackson St Jackson 12

South Belt

Mount HuttForest Lampard St Lampard Rakaia Gorge ScenicJet Gorge Rakaia Pudding Hill Stream Route Stream Pudding Hill Blackford St 4

McKerrow St McKerrow Spaxton St Spaxton

The Mall McMillan St McMillan 21 18 7

Bank St

( ( % % 0 0 17 23 1 3 5 19 0800 256837,03-3028172;www 03-318 6574; www.rivertours.co.nz; 03-318 6574;www.rivertours.co.nz; 77 Awa Awa Rata Reserve Awa Rata

Main St 77 (34km) To Ashburton Hall St Hall 6 20 2 22 NZ SkydivingSchool 16 which withglo- start Rakaia Gorge Rakaia Ryton Station(50km) Terrace Downs(30km); Windwhistle (25km); Rakaia Gorge(18km); Mt Hutt(14km); To SH72(12km); ispredominantly

Kilworth St

Lochhead Cres . There are twoac- St Mackie has introductory

( Rd Chertsey Methven % D (two hours). Barkers Rd 03-318 6515; To Christchurch 300 m Sportsground (three to 0.2 miles ( (104km) % Rakaia Rakaia Aoraki Aoraki 11 559 and

03-

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY (including a TV room) are serviceable. Tiny room)are serviceable. (including aTV tothecentrecation close of town.Facilities per person$50, chaletperperson$145-165) .ryton.co.nz; sites$5,lodgeperperson$35-45,holiday house wood-trimmed bathrooms,andacomfy, this friendlyandrelaxed lodge haslovely Transformed fromaone-timevicarage, methvenmail.co.nz; 44AllenSt;dm$25,d$60-80; .com; 25SouthBelt;dm$25-27,d/tw$58-60; (bikes, golfclubs,fishing gear etc). clude extraslike breakfast andequipment hire thanotherhostels intown, but in- higher and indooroutdoorspapools. Prices are appealing dining/livingareas, alarge kitchen bathroom $84; &BankSts;dm/d$29/74,dwith modation.co.nz; cnrMcMillan ambience. heritage plenty of ideasfor summertime activities. provide privacyandtheownerhas with TV quad roomsplentyof charm. En-suite rooms ily-friendly spotwithsingle,double,tripleand rugs andanewpastel paintjobgive thisfam- .com; 3WaynePl;tw&d$65-85,trq$115; than you plan. longer youstaying espresso see coffee might A logfire, free internet andcomplimentary tory housinganindoorgardenandspapool. This small,invitinghomehasaconserva- one of the backpackers. but it’sworthspendingafew bucksmore at budget cabinsoffer thecheapest bedintown, $22/24, cabins$34-50) Rd;unpowered/powered sites [email protected]; Barkers prices applicable outside the ski season. the followingare openyear-round withlower insummer,but Some accommodationisclosed tours. farm ing, fishing, and scenichelicopter flights bik- ties, includinghorse riding,mountain jazz mostSaturdays from 5pm. open tonon-golfing visitors, andthere’s live hole golfcourse. Tilley’s is &Restaurant Bar resort’‘high-country withaworld-class18- 30km fromMethven nearWindwhistle,isa .terracedowns.co.nz; SH72;green fees $120,clubhire $40) 560 Sleeping Alpernhorn Chalet Terrace Downs Adventures Inn Adventures Lodge Big Tree Ryton Station Lodge Redwood Ground Camping Methven Ask of thei-SITEfordetails otheractivi- ETA ATRUY • ehe CENTRAL CANTERBURY••Methven i ThisYHA-associated lodge has )

( ( ( % % %

(

Smallparkinasceniclo- % ( % 0800 926868,03-3185818; www

0800 465373,03-3186943;www 03-302 8999;www.methvenaccom ( 03-302 8964;www.snowboardnz % 03-302 9575;www.mt-hutt 03-302 8779;alpenhorn@

( % 03-302 8005;meth pi Beautifully Beautifully Turkish Turkish pi ) i ) ) ,

lodge.co.nz; 32LampardSt;s$75,d$150; bistro andloungebar. Breakfast is included. wide arrayofrooms,warmwoodendécor,andacomfy $75/95/120/140/160; enridgelodge.co.nz; 49-51SouthBelt;s/d/tr/q/f Mount Taylor Lodge Lodge Breckenridge House Skiwi stay). three-night cottage isalsoavailable ($350;minimum its ownpatioandbarbecue. Afour-bedroom seekers shouldconsiderthegardensuite, with a gardensidehydrotherapypool.Privacy- bathrobes,and with king-sizedbeds,fluffy Allen St;r$195-225; walking. and including 4WDtours, fishing, riding horse lake-view chalets. There are activitiesaplenty orDB&B(dinner,bedandbreakfast)houses holiday the homestead), toself-contained with kitchen, butmealsare available from ground and15-bed budget lodge (equipped modation ranges fromawildernesscamping Coleridge.Lake accom- Thehigh-country items cakes. like hashwithsalmon cornedbeef café withanall-day menufeaturing brekkie h over later in the day. andwinetakes Beer andsandwiches. pasta, day breakfasts, goodvalueplatters, andsoup, upall- windows. Serves timber andleadlight h coffee. best sandwiches. You’ll alsounearthMethven’segg cakes,tasty panini,andlegendary baconand bookends arevenir teaspoons andBuzzyBee for sale. Sandwiched inandaroundthesou- is Kiwiana; thecoolestpartisthateverything meals $10-18; year-round. over winter, butafew placesnowopen Methven’s eateries have traditionallyclosed Eating &Drinking 11-room lodgewithwoodenfloors;breakfast included. mountain isclosed.Covered storagearea for bicycles. withafamilyatmosphere andplentyofDVDsifthe packers 30 ChapmanSt;dm$22-24,d$50; northwest of Methven onthenorthshore of isolated 14,800-hectare 60km sheep station, Arabica 131 Cafe eSecundo Primo Café Beluga Lodge Also recommended: 8am-4pm Sat-Thu, tolateFri) 7.30am-late;

( %

h ( ( % % i 03-302 8455; 36 McMillan St; mains $15-20; 03-302 8455;36McMillan 8am-5pm)

( 03-302 8872; www.skiwihouse.co.nz; 03-302 8872;www.skiwihouse.co.nz; % 03-302 9131; Main St;meals $6-17; 03-302 9131;Main Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels is ) Awarmspacewithpolished pi ( % ( 03-302 8290;www.beluga.co.nz; 40 % ( Atreasure trove of retro 03-302 9699;www.mounttaylor

% 03-303 8902;www.breck ) Highly relaxing Highly B&B ) Versatile lodgewitha Coolly cosmopolitan Coolly cosmopolitan 03-302 9309; 38 McMillan St; 03-302 9309;38McMillan pi pi ) Smallerback- ) Stylish ) Stylish house house releases. service service during winter. .co.nz; St;adult/child$13/10) Main h bar crafted fromahuge slabof native tim- and visitors inequalmeasure. Drinkatthe menu available Friday nights. wellwiththespecialtapas andwinegoes Beer lonelyplanet.com This route issubject tosuddenchanges in Pinnacles Hut cal diversity. There are twohuts onthetramp: riverrock drawings,deep canyons andbotani- includevolcanicformations, Maorihighlights Sharplin Falls and Woolshed Creek. Trail Somers, linkingthepopularpicnic spotsof 10 hours) traverses thenorthern faceof Mt Hutt. The andMt Geraldine the mainroadbetween Mt Somers justoff SH72, isasmallsettlement MT SOMERS and pick-upsare from the i-SITE. ski fieldinwinter foraround$30;inquiries Christchurch ($33, one hour). Methvenhas onedailybusbetween and one-way $35/18 .co.nz) Travel Methven Getting There&Around Cinema Paradiso Entertainment supermarket features thebestof the South Island. and innovative mains.Theexcellentwinelist recounted over gourmetpizzas goodcocktails, point where theday’sdownhillescapadesare h Crusaders! the cially whenthere’s live rugbyonthetelly. Go zel. It’sthelocals’hangoutof choice, espe- simpler pubmealslike burgers andschnit- beige colourreally) withmore basicdécorand the BluePubis‘BrownPub’(more of a Dr; mains$10-20; restaurant. quieter meals like parmesan-crusted bluecodinthe ber, ortuckintosurprisinglysophisticated InterCity Blue Pub Shuttles operate fromMethven toMtHutt are cateredSelf-caterers foratthe Last Post Hotel Canterbury 6pm-late May-Oct) 6pm-late May-Oct) noon-late) picks upfromChristchurch (adult/child

Mt SomersSubalpineWalkway

( ClassicKiwipubwithlocals

% (cnr The Mall & MacMillan St; &MacMillan (cnr TheMall ( ( and % % h

03-365 1113;www.intercitycoach.co.nz) ( ( % % SOUTHCANTERBURY••Timaru 03-302 8046; Main St;mains$12-26; 03-302 8046;Main 03-302 8259; Main St;mains$15-34; 03-302 8259;Main ) noon-late) . Othercompaniesoffer this Popular aprésskirendezvous Woolshed Creek Hut Woolshed Creek (

% 03-302 1957;www.cinemaparadiso 03-302 8106;www.methventravel 03-302 8045; cnr Main St&Forest 03-302 8045;cnrMain Acrosstheroadfrom screens mostlyart- h (each $10). Supervalue Supervalue 7am-9pm). (17km,

There are othershorter walksin the area. small and well-maintained. picturesque bay its name. ing ship thatpicked upwhaleoil,gave the The up awhalingstation. when theWeller brothers fromSydneyset existed herepermanent settlement until1839 Te Maru, meaning‘ThePlaceof Shelter’. No town’s namecomesfromtheMaori name it’s worthyof aspotof travellers’ The R&R. rants andTimaru’s good-value motels means charming butafew Oamaru, goodrestau- 85km furthersouthtothesmaller, more Dunedin. Many travellers prefer tokickon Christchurchoff pointhalfwaybetween and The portcityof Timaru isahandystopping- pop 26,750 TIMARU ofheights Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park. Pukakiallthewaytomagnificent Lake off atTwizelintheMackenzie Countrytohug blue lakes of Tekapo andOhau,SH80veers Mackenzie Country. Studdedwiththeintense attraction of thestunninglandscapesof the also busy,butcomeswiththeaddedno-cost Theinlandroutelot of alongSH8is traffic. Timaru onitswaytoDunedinandcarriesa theportcityof through the coastpasses SH1 headingsouthfromChristchurch along SOUTH CANTERBURY (per two people $220to$280). lamb.ConsideraDB&BpackageCanterbury late Wed-Sat,noon-2pmSun) The intimate chalets scattered across bird-filled gardens. .co.nz; SH72;d$100-160) Stronechrubie .mountsomers.co.nz; HoodsRd;sites$22,cabins$42-63) tour optionsare available too. self-catering to carryluggage). Self-guided, accommodation, mealsandasupportvehicle day ($400)tofourdays(from$2200,including mountain-bike tours Optionsrange fromone h Beyond Store Mt SomersGeneral tickets andinformationare available atthe weather andprecautions shouldbetaken. Hut Based intheMtSomers regionBased is At the highway turn-off toMtSomers turn-off At thehighway is The Dec-Apr)

Mt SomersHolidayPark ( % , offering small-group high-country 03-303 0888; www.mountainbiking.net.nz; 03-303 0888;www.mountainbiking.net.nz;

restaurant ( % 03-303 9814;www.stronechrubie , withstudiosandluxury

( (mains $27to$30; %

features excellent 03-303 9831;Pattons Rd) (

% Caroline, 03-303 9719;www h asail- Back of 6.30pm- 561 is

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY sion free; Rose Garden shouldalsovisitthe buffs rose south of town; enter St.Passionate from Queen of andnative roses tree ferns. The gardensare collection andanotable ponds, aconservatory worn and bookings are required. north of footwearmustbe town.Enclosed tours $5; ‘at home’andis pronounced ‘egg-and-tie’. ways open).Thegallery’sGaelicnamemeans adorned externally byasculpture garden(al- upina1908mansion,and four centuriesset of NZandEuropeanartfromtheprevious largest publicgalleries,a900-piececollection noon-4pm Sat&Sun) .govt.nz; 49Wai-itiRd;admissionfree; for an update. art insitu)wasplannednearthei-SITE.Ask (including tours rock aroundtheregion tosee 1903. in came before brothers theWright first flew mildly successfulattempts atmannedflight and inventor Richard Pearse. Many his believe aviatordesigned andflownbylocalpioneer from theceilingisareplica of theaeroplane and naturalartefacts of theregion. Hanging 1.30-4.30pmSat&Sun) 4.30pm Tue-Fri, St;admissionbydonation; .timaru.govt.nz; Perth Sights the Rail ( Café opposite ). transport bookings.Internet isavailable atOff information onlocalwalks,andalsohandles not passengers). Thei-SITEhasstreet maps, tion (trainsinthisarea onlycarryfreight, 10am-3pm Sat&Sun) St; .southisland.org.nz; 2George The Information from town. Confused? King StandthenSH1againafter emerging becomes St. Continuingsouth,thehighway the centralbusinessdistrictaroundStafford Theodosia StandCraigieAve asitbypasses town, Evans Stasitenters townandthen Timaru:through theHiltonHwynorthof SH1 isknownbymanynamesasitpasses Orientation 562 South Canterbury Museum SouthCanterbury Aigantighe Art Gallery Aigantighe Art At thetimeof writing,a The Brewery DB Mainland Timaru i-SITE OT ATRUY • iau SOUTH CANTERBURY••Timaru h h Botanic Gardens 8am-dusk) tours 10.30amMon-Fri)

(Caroline Bay; admissionfree; (

isoneof theSouthIsland’s isacrossfromthetrainsta- % , established in1864,have, established 0800 4846278,03-6886163;www

( (

(cnr King &QueenSts;admis- (cnr King % %

h ( 03-688 4424;www.timaru 03-688 2059;SheffieldSt; % Maori Rock Art Centre Centre RockArt Maori islocated 6km 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, h 03-687 7212;www has historical 10am-4pm Tue-Fri, 10am-4pm Tue-Fri, Trevor Griffiths Griffiths Trevor h open daily) h 10am-

pr tariff. park nextdoorthat’sincludedinyour golf course Parkland site withexcellentamenitiesanda 26 Decemberandrunningforabout10days. .panorama.net.nz; 52 The Bay Hill; dfrom$120; .panorama.net.nz; 52TheBayHill; www.aspenonking.co.nz.co.nz; 51 King St;d$95-140;www.aspenonking.co.nz.co.nz; 51 King pools attheendof thebay.Ask atthei-SITE andontotheDashing Rocksandrock Cliffs pasttheBenvenue Bay, town alongCaroline powered/powered sites$28/30,cabins&motelsd$50-105) St;un- 154aSelwyn 7690; www.timaruholidaypark.co.nz; Timaru Top10HolidayPark Sleeping east of at thehospital Patiti Point. There’s good walksinthearea.for thefolderdetailing and a walkway. pleasant a wadingpool,minigolf($3),kidsplayground The beachside .nz) crowded There’s Bay. afun, the eastcoastisCaroline One of thefew safe, sheltered beaches on Activities tions and floral workshops. co.nz) of withtwoweeks gardentours, exhibi- Timaru Festival ofRoses around arbors and water features. with more than1000romanticbloomsset are particularly spacious. Hill’s cafésare ashortwalkaway. Family units parkandBay Bay would benice,but Caroline and gym.More greenery to soften theconcrete Modern, well-appointed unitswithspa,sauna modern. crisply Other newerunitsare equallyspaciousand fromthe Playboymansion.that’s straight bathroom complete red withabright bath three-bedroom apartmentfeatures aretro Timaru’s motels offer excellentvalue. A pi trips. fishing den. Theowners alsoorganise huntingand up thebarbecueandrelax inthepretty gar- bike, Rentamountain firethe busstation. friendly owners offering transfers to/from sites/dm/s/d $13/23/25/52; 24EvansSt; 688 8795;[email protected]; 1873 Wanderer Backpackers 1873 Wanderer Panorama MotorLodge onKing Aspen Every November Timaru celebrates the A goodone-hour with concerts and events herewith concertsandevents beginning ) This place is striking evidence that Thisplaceisstrikingevidence Christmas Carnival Carnival Christmas surfing park Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

( % has a walk-through aviary, hasawalk-through i inthesouthof town, 0800 822344,03-6883034; walk (www.festivalofroses. ) Sprawling spot with Sprawlingspotwith

( % ( % headsnorthfrom

( % (www.carolinebay.org 0800 242121,03-684 03-688 0097;www 0800 187392,03- pi )

$8-17; meals $10-15; & juices$5-10; lonelyplanet.com up thejukebox crammedwith ‘70stunes,and Fire café isatthetrainstation. funky licensed world famous(in Timaru) breakfasts. funkiest eatery offers bagels sandwiches, and intotheday. Timaru’salways agoodwaytoease 3pm Sat) magazines. interesting up oncoffee astheyread a globalarrayof and smoothies.Thenot-so-virtuous canfuel ‘healthfuelstop’withwraps,salads Self-styled Reload Eating &Drinking noise from SH1. glazed windowsmasktheworst of theroad bayviewsanddouble- units offer Hoff-tastic watchtimaru.co.nz; 7EvansSt;d$110-140; Motor Lodge sleeper.a light Thebestoptionis worth askingforaroomatthebackifyou’re 1 3 2 TIMARU

ὈὈ ὈὈ Busy Evans Stiswall-to-wallmotels, butit’s Off the Rail Café Café theRail Off StCafé Arthur 8

Preston St Preston Selwyn St Selwyn Christchurch(162km) h

Excellent coffee andcruisyKiwidubis Excellent (

% Hobbs St To DBMainland 7.30m-5pm Mon-Fri, to 9.30pmSat; 7.30m-5pm Mon-Fri, Brewery (6km);

Grasmere h Rd Avenue 03-688 6616;cnrStafford&BewiskSts;wraps AC

(

% Selwyn St Selwyn

Ranui St 11 7.30am-5.30pm, 7.30am-8pm Fri. 8.30am- 7.30am-5.30pm, 7.30am-8pmFri. St

8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSat) 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, White St

( SOUTHCANTERBURY••Timaru

0800 929828,03-6881886;www.bay % Wilson St Wilson

( Evans St 1 %

03-688 9449; 8 Arthur St;snacks& 03-688 9449;8Arthur ὈὈ ὈὈ

Beverley

2 St Evans 03-688 3594;StationSt; meals Le Cren St Cren Le 1 Ashbury

Rd Te Weka St Park

Wai-iti Rd To BotanicGardens;

Virtue Ave Virtue Park View Tce

North St Elizabeth St

Sefton St

Bidwill St Dunedin (199km)

Church St Benvenue Ave

Arthur St Oamaru (84km); 5

pi 6

B Grey Rd Grey i Baywatch Dashing RocksWalk Benvenue

Cliffs

Caroline Bay

7 Hill Bay The ) This

). St Theodosia Park

Craigie Ave Craigie 1

Its Sophia St Sophia 4

Port Loop Rd Loop Port Bank St St Bank

Stafford St Stafford The Terrace The

3 side the train station, with buses toChristchurch with buses side thetrainstation, Perth St Perth Caroline Bay ($25) and Dunedin ($25). .co.nz) TeQueenstown, Anau and Invercargill. hours, twodaily). FromDunedinconnectto hour, twodaily)andDunedin($37, three ($32, 2½hours, ($26,one twodaily),Oamaru InterCity Getting There&Away Sun). & &EvansSts; (cnr Ranui Canterbury. South andvenisonas salmon bringyoubackto Monteith’s and classyKiwipubtucker such the Mediterranean. Proudly Kiwibeers from the palmtrees andyoucould(almost)bein through of Bay aglimpse Catch Caroline lunch mains$10-16,dinner$18-27; night. Saturday late fordrinksandoccasionallive musicon porary globally influenceddishes.It’sopen Kiwibakedsample goodiesandmore contem- 9

Heaton St

Strathallan Station St Atomic Shuttles Atomic shopat Self-caterers Bay54 Monteith’s 12

George St

St stopinTimaru enroute toChristchurch Marine Pde

( % 1 Harbour 10 Timaru Inner 0.5miles 800m 0 0

03-365 1113;www.intercity.co.nz) Hayman St Ritchie St (600m) on King To Aspen St Fraser

( % h ( % EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Reload...... Pak NSaveSupermarket...... Monteith's Bay54...... (see7) Arthur StCafé...... Timaru Top10HolidayPark..... Panorama MotorLodge...... Baywatch MotorLodge...... 1873 WandererBackpackers.... Trevor GriffithsRoseGarden.... South CanterburyMuseum...... Aigantighe ArtGallery...... Timaru i-SITE...... f h alCf...... C3 Off theRailCafé...... 03-349 0697;www.atomictravel 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, to7pmSat 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, 03-688 4367; 56 The Bay Hill; 03-688 4367;56TheBayHill; Pak N Save supermarket Pak NSave D h stopsout- 11am-late) 12 11 10 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 9 563 C3 A1 C3 A1 B2 B2 B2 B2 C3 A2 C3

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY caters tohungryvisitors withabakery, cafés the surrounding high country, taking insheep country, taking the surroundinghigh There’s alsoarare 1929 Biplane.Spartan massive 100tractors. shedatthebackhouses veteran cars fromasfarback1907,while a 5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat&Sun) 5pm Mon-Fri, 9820; www.1066.co.nz; 10WilsonSt;admission free; braidedriversstations, and .co.nz; $105-230) daily mid-Sep–Jun) 693 8005;178Talbot St;adult/child$6/free; with a Saturday thetownkicksintoorganic action smoothiesandjams.Everyjuices, sauces, kiwifruitwines, (andsampling) rium selling Barker’s and theTalbot Forest shop.Alsohere cheese is has agoodrange of walking maps. inauthenticMaoricialises art.Thei-SITEalso FourPeaks Plaza) www.tearikigallery.co.nz; Geraldine’s including galleries acrossSouthCanterbury, Aoraki DistrictArikiTrailbrochure listing Askbook ruralB&Bsandfarmstays. forthe the gardensandgalleriesintown,can 10am-4pmSat&Sun) Fri, island.org.nz; cnrTalbot &CoxSts; www.gerald scene. See ine.net.nz. with pretty private gardensandanactive craft hasacountry-villageGeraldine atmosphere pop 2210 Geraldine Tekapo. Lake over Burkes Pass totheblueintensity of and Fairlie before joiningSH8,which heads thesmalltownsof through Geraldine passes National Park’s eastern foothills.Theroad countryandtheAoraki/MtCook the high SH1ontoSH79,ascenicrouteoff towards ern lakes fromChristchurch meansaturn Heading andthesouth- toQueenstown TO MACKENZIECOUNTRY Mackenzie Country.Ask at the i-SITE. get orFairlie toGeraldine tothe tocatch buses TekapoLake tofirst andMtCook–you’ll need 564 and length of tours. film sites. Pricesvaryaccording toitinerary There are nodirect fromTimaru buses to The mind-bending 4x4 NewZealand The Four Peaks Plaza The OT ATRUY • oMcezeCuty Country SOUTH CANTERBURY••ToMackenzie farmer’s market

Geraldine i-SITE Geraldine Vintage Car & Machinery Museum &Machinery Car Vintage ( % 03-693 9727) operates arange of 4WDtours in Te Ariki Art Gallery Art Te Ariki hasmore than 30vintage and (

(cnr Talbot &CoxSts; hasbrochures detailing 03-693 8847;www.4x4newzealand , afruit-productsempo-

(

( h Medieval Mosaic Medieval % 9.30am-12.30pm). 03-693 1006;www.south isidealfor fansof h Lord of the Rings

8.30am-5pm Mon- ( % , which spe- h h 03-693 9110; ( % 9am-5pm)

10am-4pm

( % h 03-693 03- 9am- ,

room and playground. units,there’s aTV cabins andself-contained budgetthe roadfromagrassyoval. Besides trees amidwell-established across park isset $10/7) Talbot St; end of town. thinks herunstheplace. It’satthenorthern the attention of afriendlycatwhodefinitely and studios includedouble-glazing, SkyTV style,butthemodern built inearly-settler Recommended byreaders, thisnewhotel is .motelscenicroute.co.nz; 28WaihiTerrace; d$120-140; Peel St;grabamapbefore off. setting rave aboutthecomfybeds.It’sabove townoff bikesmountain are allavailable andguests furnished rooms.Pizza,great breakfasts and that’snowaspacioushosteltal withsmartly keptbeen upatthisanoldmaternity hospi- Under newownership, have butstandards backpackers.co.nz; 27HewlingsSt;dm/s/d$24/34/58; $24/26, cabins&units$45-105; St;unpowered/powered sites 39Hislop holidaypark.co.nz; HolidayPark Geraldine SLEEPING &EATING len jersey isalso on display. you’re feeling chilly, theworld’sbiggest wool- after afew before drinksthenight If though. recommendedmathematics; notnecessarily history,wordgamesandclever-clogsmedieval Geraldine Cinema Geraldine ENTERTAINMENT fee, hotchocolate and cake. handmade choccies, plusdesignerteas, cof- rush, visit ideal foraquickbite. Foraqualitysugar 41 Talbot St;mains $8-15; the gardenbarat 5-9pm) ( at lunch and dinner. Trythe playground. stamp–sized a small,well-behaved ‘c’–inthepostage try, whilethekidsgocrazy–that’swith lunch infilopas- options such as salmon café. Grown-upswillappreciate thetasty gardenold postoffice isthisdelightful $7-15; % Rawhiti Backpackers Rawhiti The eateries atFourPeaks Plaza( left ) are Both of pubs doheartymeals Geraldine’s Verde Cafe Scenic Route MotorLodge Scenic Route 03-693 8458;31Talbot St;mains$15-25; isaquirky localcinemawith old sofas. attheCrownHotel, ordinealfresco in h h 9am-4pm) 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-2pmSat) 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, Chocolate Brown Chocolate

( % ( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % Downthelanebeside 03-693 9616;45Talbot St;mains 03-693 8118;Talbot St;adult/child (

% ( % Village Inn Village 10am-late). 03-693 8147;www.geraldine pi 03-693 8252;www.rawhiti

( %

( % 0800 723643,www Totara Thisholiday ) ( 03-693 9982;10 % 03-693 1004; h

restaurant restaurant

pi noon-2pm, pi for )

) café-restaurant. Thestore alsomanages the food, andhasinternet access andanon-site which stocks petrol,groceriesandtakeaway to A roadfromnearbyMtPeel leads station indigenoustant podocarp(conifer) forests. posted SH72), isamongNZ’smostimpor- off Peel Forest, 22kmnorthof (sign- Geraldine Peel Forest Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels on three hours on the river. include hotshowers andabarbecue. Count including return transport toMtPeel), and Peel Forest ($175) orChristchurch ($185 $20/48) and includesbudget at MtPeel, 13kmpastthecampingground, is ing gradeVrapids.Thecompany’s base the River, whichexhilarat- contains Rangitata .rafts.co.nz; rifleman, NZpigeon 1000 years old.Localbirdlife includesthe return) hasacircumference of 9mandisover ple of onthe totara kahikatea Onefineexam- totara, andmatai. summer foradipinthe River.Rangitata at thelodge. Bringyourswimmingtrunksin offer ifyou’re (from$55)even notstaying ahead. book owners don’tlive onsite to soyou’llneed also available ifyoucan’t/won’tcook.The food alongforleisurely barbecues;mealsare style lodge intheforest. deep Bringyourown .co.nz; d$220-350) Lodge Peel Forest there. you’re bikea mountain (perhour/day$8/35)when Check inatthestore andaskabout renting ers, akitchen, laundryandcardphone. with basictwo-tofour-berth cabins,show- about 3kmbeyondthestore andequipped sites $18/22,cabins$36) DOC pleasant Store Peel Forest Park: Track Information in the 1860s. Samuel Butler(authorof thesatire hu return). hour Falls waterfalls: andgreytail warbler. There are alsotrailsto Rangitata Rafts Rafts Rangitata The magnificentpodocarpforest consistsof More upmarket isthereader-recommended informationsuch asthe Get Horse trekking Mesopotamia (twohours return) and . Rafting tripscan betaken fromeither . Rafting h Emily Falls Oct-Apr) , a self-contained log-cabin- , aself-contained camping ground

(

( , therunof English writer % inthelush forest isalsoon %

( % goes white-water goes raftingon beside the Rangitata River, beside theRangitata 03-696 3567; 03-696 3703;www.peelforestlodge Big Tree Walk Big Tree lodge (1½hours return), 0800 251251,03-6963534;www (kereru)

brochure ($1)at accommodation SOUTH CANTERBURY •• Mackenzie Country SOUTHCANTERBURY••Mackenzie (unpowered/powered h

Acland Falls , bellbird,fan- (30minutes 9am-6pm; Peel Forest Erewhon (dm/d (one

i Rata ) , ) turing pasta, salads salads turing pasta, and soups. There’s alsoamore casualall-daymenufea- Mackenzie lamborsmoked Alpinesalmon. fresh, localfoodsuch asroasted and serves touches such ceiling, asanoldpressed-metal with roomsaroundthe $85 mark. the legendary James ‘Jock’ MacKenzie, who escalate isknownasMackenzie Countryafter scenic peaksof Aoraki/MtCookNationalPark The expansive groundfromwhich the high MACKENZIE COUNTRY dinner mains$18-30; andwine,speedy beer internet access. food (trythesquid,mangoandcoconutsalad), eat alsodragsingrown-upswithitsinteresting 5pm; one that’s wheelchair-accessible. units,including Reasonable self-contained www.pinewoodmotels.co.nz; 25-27MtCookRd;dfrom$85) conservatory. and former doctor’sresidence) hasarestaurant (aden. Outthefront,heritage house gar-the mainroadamidawell-established Old-fashioned, butspaciousunitswelloff 53MtCookRd;d$90) 03-685 8058;[email protected]; kids. Fishing gear is for hire. for families,withalarge playgroundforthe pi Rd; unpowered &powered sites$30,cabins&units$50-150; 324 754,03-6858375;www.fairlietop10.co.nz; 10Allandale tion Both Main Stpubsoffer budget accommoda- SLEEPING &EATING Internet isavailable at Allandale St) The p90). (see basin 26km northwestof Fairlie, isina3km-wide Peak Fox biking provide informationonnearby 8496; www.fairlie.co.nz; AllandaleSt; open spacesof Mackenzie Country. changes astheroadascendsBurkes Pass tothe the Mackenzie’. Tothewestlandscape Fairlie isoften describedas‘thegateway to pop 725 Fairlie Old Library Café Old LibraryCafé eat Pinewood Motels CountryRetreat Rimuwhare Top10HolidayPark Fairlie Gateway The , i or youcantryoneof thelocalmotels, ( tracks % ) Tranquil,creek-side parkthat’sperfect Fairlie visitorinformationcentre ) Family-friendly withakid’splayarea, in the Two Thumb Range. intheTwoThumbRange. 03-685 6275; 76 Main St;mains$10-15; 03-685 6275;76Main hasinformationandgear rental. . There’s skiing29kmnorthwestat h (

% ( % 11am-late; 03-685 8999;6AllandaleRd; Ski Shack Ski 0800 858599,03-6858599; eat (below).

i h ( %

( % Has elegant ) 10am-4pm) 0800 723723, 03-685 8088; mountain- Mt Dobson (

% ( % h 03-685 565 0800 can 8am-

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY of theSouthernAlps,with MtCook-and This area isatits scenic bestbefore orafter theMackenziethat helpeddevelop Country. statue given itspostcard-perfect Nearbyisa setting. oak in1935andis afavourite forweddings Shepherd The diminutive, picturesque to eitherTwizel or Geraldine. Tekapo. totrek Forfoldingcashyou’llneed writing there wasnobankorATM atLake Helicopters office( opposite ). Atthetimeof co.nz and www.tekapotourism.co.nz. gear. www.laketekapountouched. Onlinesee Here andhire youcanalsobookbuses fishing post officeandvisitorinformationcentre. hrsinwinter) summer, shorter Treasures Kiwi INFORMATION theboxedblue, see text, p568. lakes intheregion are such avibrantshade of shops liningthe main highway. lers alongtheribbonof eateries andsouvenir still mixandminglewithotherTekapo travel- lakeside, butforthelife of thisbookexpectto ing, anewtowncentre wasplannednearthe quick icecream orcoffee. Atthetimeof writ- poppinginfora Queenstown-bound buses the epic vistas. resort advantage of accommodationtaking times, withnewB&Bs,holidayhomesand movie. Thetownhasboomedinrecent worthyofand mountains aPeter Jackson water, andabackdropofquoise rollinghills this townhasunobstructed viewsacrosstur- At thesouthern endof itsnamesake lake, pop 315 Lake Tekapo ziewinter.co.nz. www.mackenmation onwinter activitiessee hundredsOtago of years ago. the Maori, trekking Peninsula fromBanks to first peopletotraverse theMackenzie were of thelandandfollowedinhisfootsteps. The othersettlers realised thepotentialcaught, ited region inthe1840s.Whenhewasfinally ran hisstolenflocksinthisthen-uninhab- 566 SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Lake TekapoLake isapopularstop ontours There’s internet access attheTekapo For anexplanationof whythis andother www.mtcook.org.nz; forinfor-Online see OT ATRUY • akni onr Country SOUTH CANTERBURY••Mackenzie of acolliedog,tribute tothe sheepdogs besidethelake wasbuiltof stoneand

( % 03-680 6686;SH8; actsassouvenir shop, Church oftheGood h 7.30am-8pm skating adult/child$12/9; skating (dl/hl $320/220). (adult/child is fromGlentannerPark (see p575 ) butwithhigher prices by MtsCook,Tasman andEliedeBeaumont. Asimilarflight oftheFoxandFranz JosefGlaciers,and over theupperpart youuptheTasman(adult/child $280/195), taking Glacier, SH8) Does50-minuteflightsoverMtCookand its glaciers by demandfrom11am to 3pm. operate (adult/child $20/5)of theobservatory canvary.One-hourdaytimetours as these adult/child $68/35; by stargazing touroperatedtwo-hour night-time onMtJohn. Joina has ascientificobservatory is top-notch, andtheUniversity of Canterbury Tekapoany maintowns,thestargazing atLake explorations. $150/250) $45/75,half-/fullday ride one-/two-hr 269; www.maht.co.nz; Lodge andtheLake Tekapo YHA. Backpackersday $10/25)fromLakefront you outandabout on Tekapo.Lake .co.nz; 25-/40-mincruises$30/45,fishingperhr$80) Walkway are inthebrochure detailed makingitanall-daywalk.Otherwalks Lakes, continue ontoAlexandrinaandMcGregor beyond thecampingground.Fromthere, mit of morning or late afternoon. swarming withrubberneckers, socomeearly the lastbusgroupleaves; theplaceis otherwise Air Safaris TOURS packages start at $90. (per hour$27.50)are alsoavailable, and spa 2500 native trees. Private poolsandsaunas ofcompact selection hotpools scattered amid .co.nz; door, the to thecaféforapréscurlingsustenance. Next have agoatcurlingfor$15before heading skiing andtobogganing action.Youcanalso ing rinkandamini–snowslopeforgentle Park country skiing skiing In winter, Tekapo Lake for isabase from Thanks toclearskiesanditsdistance AlpineHorseTrekking Mackenzie Cruise Tekapo Popular walksincludethetracktosum- Mountain bikes Opened inlate 2007,the Earth &Sky Earth ( % h atMtDobson orRoundHilland Mt John organises four-footed high-country 03-680 6550; www.winterpark.co.nz; Lakeside Dr; Lakeside 03-680 6550;www.winterpark.co.nz; 10am-10pm) ( ($1). % Alpine Springs &Spa Alpine Springs ontheTwo Thumb Range.

( 03-680 6880;www.airsafaris.co.nz; % (three hours return) fromjust h ( % canbehired (perhour/half- 03-680 6960; www.earthandsky.co.nz; 03-680 6960;www.earthandsky.co.nz; is openallyearroundwitha Apr-Sep). Apr-Sep). 027 4797675;www.cruisetekapo h Apr-Sep) Call for start times forstart Call Lake Tekapo Winter Winter Tekapo Lake features askat- lonelyplanet.com

(www.alpinesprings Lake Tekapo

( % canget 0800 628 downhill cross- owned bythenearbyholidaypark (about include icefieldlandingsandviewsof Mt Cook. Cook andFoxFranzJosefGlaciers($500).Allflights inMt taking a 25-minuteflight($195)to70-minutetrip SH8)Hasfiveoptions,from www.tekapohelicopters.co.nz; Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels be a social. tad soitcan stopmost nights Backpacker buses are modernandbathrooms are top-notch. viewsfromthefrontdeck.Rooms sensational fire inthecomfylounge area or take inthe 1km fromthetownship).Relaxby theopen $26/65; Dr; dm/d Lakeside www.laketekapo-accommodation.co.nz; of boat traffic. lake Insummerexpectafairbit tacular vistas. with shared barbecuesandspec- picnictables, full kitchen and SkyTV. Newerchalets come rything frombasiccabinstomotel unitswith a pretty and peacefullakeside locale,pluseve- Dr;sites$30,cabins&units$60-140; Lakeside 853, 03-6806825;www.laketekapo-accommodation.co.nz; &HolidayPark Motels Tekapo Lake SLEEPING Tekapo Helicopters 1 3 2 LAKE TEKAPO

Lakefront Backpackers Lodge Backpackers Lakefront Mt Cook(99km) (9km); Twizel(58km); (9km); MtJohnObservatory To Airport(3km);AstroCafe Lakeside Tekapo HighCountryCrafts.. Reflections...... Pepe's...... Kohan...... Four SquareSupermarket...... Bakery...... Backpackers...... Lake TekapoYHA...... Lake TekapoScenicResort...... Lake TekapoLuxuryLodge...... Tekapo Helicopters...... Air Safaris...... Kiwi Treasures...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Tailor-Made-Tekapo D1 Church oftheGoodShepherd..

pi Dr AC ) An impressive lakeside place Mt JohnWalkway(900m) Lake TekapoWinterPark(900m); Alpine Springs&Spa(900m); Backpackers Lodge(400m); Holiday Park(200m);Lakefront To LakeTekapoMotels& ( % 0800 359835,03-6806229;

Simp 14 13 12 11 10

9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 son La son B2 B2 C2 C2 B2 B2 B3 B1 B2 B2 C2 B2 B2 7 SOUTH CANTERBURY •• Mackenzie Country SOUTHCANTERBURY••Mackenzie 8

( %

R oto Aorangi ( 8 pi % 03-680 6227;

Cres B Pl 13 0800 853 14 Has Has ) 9 1 6 5 2 10 4 Cres; dm$25-29,dwith/withoutbathroom$74/62; 9-11Aorangi 6700; www.tailor-made-backpackers.co.nz; neiby central. undeniably it fromthelake. incharacter, Lacking but ily units,withonly bare parkland separating central complexof modernstudioandfam- resort asa Not somuch aself-contained SH8;d$190-280; 680 6808;www.laketekapo.com; playground. children’s trees,with well-established birdsonganda there’s abarbecue-equippedgardencomplete main road.Theinterior isspickandspan onapeacefulstreethouses away fromthe and isspread over apairof well-tended This hostel favours bedsratherthanbunks pitch atent for $12. can (notcampervans) building). Campers iselsewhere inthe (theTV nate proceedings todomi- beyond,butwithnoTV mountains viewsacrossthelakeoutstanding tothe adorned withopenfireplaces, apianoand equipped littleplacewithalivingroom 3 SimpsonLa;dm/d$26/70; 12 Lake Tekapo ScenicResort Lake Backpackers Tailor-Made-Tekapo Tekapo YHA Lake 11 Garden Alpine 0.2miles 300m 0 0 Boat Ramp

Tekapo River Tekapo Lake

(

% Alexan

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03-680 6857;www.yha.co.nz; Sealy St Sealy Pl 3

( Greig St

% ) St Allan Friendly,well- 0800 118666,03-

To GlacierRockBed & Breakfast(800m); Burkes Pass(18km); Pioneer Dr Pioneer D

Statue Sheepdog 8 Fairlie(42km) ( % Mackenzie St pi 03-680 i 567

)

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY well-appointed roomshave great viewsfrom English-manor stylehome. Three of thefour is acosy little placewithgood pizza’n’pasta. with skiingparaphernalia, therusticPepe’s late) cake ispretty good too. on theplanetforacafé,andcoffee and QuiteBasin. possibly onethebestlocations degree viewsacrosstheentire Mackenzie 360- spectacular atop MtJohn hasinsanely $4-8; from thesupermarket and the bakery. forcompilingalakesidea goodexcuse picnic will openinthelife of thisbook.Lunchtime is of bustours. Fingers afew crossed new places ness fromthepassing tradeandacavalcade lacklustre, withmostplacesdoingOKbusi- TekapoThe diningsceneatLake israther EATING ground forsome good B&Bs. in theeastern partof townisaprimehunting corrugated iron artwork. leading tothevillage pasttheowner’squirky a backdeck,andthere’s alsoahandypath 395; 24AorangiCres; d$250- 6566; www.laketekapolodge.co.nz; rooms withhuge picture windows. insunny and airyrooms.Breakfast isserved architect’s inthespacious –eyeis evident as anartgallery.Anartist’s–ormaybe This architecturally-designed homedoubles 35LochinverAve;.glacierrock.co.nz; d$190-230; 568 Lake Tekapo LuxuryLodge Lake Glacier RockBed&Breakfast o Hamilton Dve andthesurrounding streets Pepe’s the brilliantcolour. refracts thesunlightbeamingdown,hence ment gives thewater amilkyqualityand pended intheglacialmeltwater. This sedi- thatendedupbeingsus- fine particles with therock-on-rock grindingout action glacier moving acrosstheland’ssurface, basin wasgougedoutbyastony-bottomed flourwascreatedso-called whenthelake’s to ‘rockflour’(sediment)inthewater. This isdue bodies ofwater Pukaki, suchasLake a characteristic itshares withotherregional The Tekapo, blazingturquoisecolourofLake BLUE CRUSH Withlarge booths andwalls decorated pi h OT ATRUY • akni onr Country SOUTH CANTERBURY••Mackenzie 9am-6pm)

( % Astro Café Café Astro ) Luxurious hilltop B&B set inan LuxurioushilltopB&Bset 03-680 6677;SH8;meals $12-30; This tiny,glass-walledpavilion (Mt John Observatory; coffee & cake coffee &cake (Mt JohnObservatory; ( % ( % 0800 525383,03-680 03-680 6669;www pi h 6pm- )

( % be over more than one day. carry onfromMtCooktoTwizel.Travel can one daily)andforanadditional$17youcan erators such as Christchurch, are offered byanumberof op- to and Wanaka,northbound services toMtCook,Queenstown Southbound services THERE&AWAYGETTING market action. nocturnal and nextdooristhetown’spubformore ferings are more casual(burgers andsalads) or baked Lunchtime MtCooksalmon. of- a decentmenuthatincludesroasted venison from past themini-golf –thenselect course with viewstothelaketable –tryandlook dinner mains$25-32; value. good ultra-fresh. Lunch specialsare particularly isup theroad,youjustknowsashimi farmjustIsland’s best,andwithasalmon Japanese foodisactuallyamongtheSouth the lake outsideanyway.The andmountains a bitho-hum,butyoushouldbegazingat h becomes agoodspotforfew quiet ones. but thedishesare it andlater tasty, atnight Venison Bing,anyone?), orSpagBolBada Some of thenamesare (Vinnie’s abitnaff ing great viewsof MtCook. Stopatthefarm along acanalpopular forfishingandenjoy- –ascenicdriveis 12kmfromthe turn-off canalsystemerates and inahydroelectric adult/child $2/free; Farm the signposted turn-off tothe Some 15kmwestof Tekapo Lake along SH8is Mt CookSalmonFarm SH8) SH8) nect.co.nz) to Christchurch and Queenstown/Wanaka. One-way fares range $25 between and $45. Coaches 365 1113;www.intercitycoach.co.nz) www.atomictravel.co.nz) Between them, Between Cook Connection Bus Naked Pick upsuppliesatthe Reflections Kohan 03-680 655; SH8; 11am-2pm Mon-Sun&6-9pmMon-Sat) and handlebookingsfor visiting buses. ( %

(SH8; ( % operates toMtCook(one-way$28, Tekapo High CountryCrafts Tekapo High ( 021 370038;www.mtcooksalmon.com;CanalRd; % 0508 458835;www.southernlinkcoaches.co.nz). h

(www.nakedbus.com) 03-680 6688;SH8;lunch$8-12,dinner$20-30;

( % 7am-9pm) h Atomic Shuttles Atomic h h 03-680 6808;SH8;lunchmains$10-17,

Kiwi Treasures Kiwi daylight hours). ( , % 7am-4pm). 8am-late) InterCity/Newmans 0800 266526;www.cookcon and thenearby and Grab anoutdoor Four Square super- Four Square travel fromhere lonelyplanet.com The farmop-

(

( Mt CookSalmon ( % % %

Southern Link The décor’s 03-349 0697; 03-680 6686; 03-680 6905;

( bakery % 03-

3124; www.twizel.com;TwizelEventsCentre; road rejoins SH8. southeastern shore of Pukakibefore Lake the Continue onthisstretch andyou’llreach the supplied) orpickupsomethingfordinner. to feed (rods thefish,catch yourownsalmon Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels in theregion; askat the i-SITE. business andthere are anumberof guides in localrivers, canalsandlakes isalsobig rowing, boating and windsurfing.Fishing ispopularfor Ruataniwha Nearby Lake ACTIVITIES to Mt Cook. fill upwithpetrolinTwizelbefore heading travellers shouldalso or MtCook.Self-drive area. Note there’s noATM Tekapo atLake and Wine Festival. hosts thelively Mackenzie SummerSalmon has internet access. Inlate January thetown 10am-4pmTue-Sat May-Sep; daily Oct-Apr, Whowould lers’ nirvana. have thought? expensive MtCookVillage. Twizelasatravel- make itagoodalternative inmore tostaying able accommodationandafew goodeateries down theroad,andTwizel’srange of afford- lifestyle.and mountains MtCookisjust63km to take advantage of thearea’s relaxed lakes and newlakeside subdivisionsare beingbuilt pricesare ashouse increasingthe lastlaugh Now thetown’stenacious residents are having when theconstructionproject wascompleted. andwasduetobeabandoned in1984 station, construction of power thenearbyhydroelectric Pukaki. Thetownwasbuiltin1968toservice ligned thetownof Twizel, justsouthof Lake ma- It wasn’tlongagothatNewZealanders pop 1015 Twizel foreground. the surrounding peaks,withtheultrabluelake in a picture-perfect viewof MtCookandits is thesterling Mackenzie here Country.Butthehighlight 4pm May-Sep) SH8; [email protected]; visitorinformationcentre Pukaki east of theturn-off toMtCook,isthe southwest of Tekapo Lake and2kmnorth- On thesouthernshore of Pukaki,45km Lake Lk Pukaki Lake There’s anATM inthemainshopping Right intownisthe Right , withreams of informationon lookout h thatonacleardaygives 9am-6pm Oct-Apr, 10am- 9am-6pm Oct-Apr, Twizel i-SITE Twizel SOUTH CANTERBURY •• Mackenzie Country SOUTHCANTERBURY••Mackenzie ( %

i h 03-435 3280;

( % ) , which 9am-6pm 03-435 Lake Lake a long way. your Kiwipesosgoing motel unitsalsosee and bedlinen.Acoupleof tains standalone smartened upthedécor withcolourfulcur- construction workers, and newowners have tobeahostel for excellent valueplaceused d withbathroom$75,motelfrom$115; Dr;dm$25,s/d$50/65, .highcountrylodge.co.nz; Mackenzie people. two are particularlygoodvalue. Pricesare for cottages Themodernself-contained hospital. dation inacolourfullyrefurbished maternity green, flower-filled groundsandaccommo- sites $20/24,cabins&cottages$60-90; Dr;unpowered/powered [email protected]; 122Mackenzie Park Parklands AlpineTourists SLEEPING include a snow landing. 25 minutes ($210)to60minutes ($525)and lastfrom flights Country Inn.Sightseeing region fromahelipadbesideMackenzie .helicopter.co.nz; Wairepo Rd) lakes, theSouthernAlps and MtCook. viewsofCook) andenjoyspectacular five of height Mt a planeat12,000ft(thesame ing brave soulsthechance tojumpoutof from asmallairfield north of town,offer- SH8;tandemskydive$295) Airport, .com; Pukaki port toget to the hide). yourowntrans- Twizel i-SITE(you’llneed hour tourof thehide;formore info,visitthe fellows. Bookingsare fortheone- essential elusivegives lookatthese youaclose-up Hide Justsouthofeffort. Twizel,the Park ispartof this new AhuririConservation tempting toincrease thepopulationand est birds.Abreeding programmeisnowat- only inNZandisoneof thecountry’srar- LOTR replica gear. to charge aroundlike amadthingwearing Lord of the Rings to thesite of thePelennor battlefieldinthe a populartwo-hourtour(adult/child $75/40) Cook, includinghikingandheli-biking, plus the Mackenzie CountryandAoraki/Mt operates guided,small-group tours around www.discoverytours.co.nz) High CountryHolidayLodge High Line Helicopter Mt CookSkydive The wadingkoki(blackstiltbird)isfound Tours Discovery

( % 03-435 3124;adult/child$12.50/5;

( %

( movies. get Youcaneven ( % % is based inTwizeland isbased 0800 650652,03-4350370;www fliesover theMtCook 0800 2645344;www.nzskydive 0800 213868,03-4350114; (

( % % pi 03-435 0671;www 03-435 0507;park pi Kaki Visitor Visitor Kaki Offering Offering h operates ) ) Oct-Apr) This 569

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY by farmland and mountain scenery,thislux- by farmlandandmountain beach have travelled well to get thisfarinland. flavours of yourfavourite Asian SouthEast comes toTwizeland thezestyandzingy $12-18; Café Charming Thai EATING Colonial Motel Motel Court Aspen lunch and athree-course dinner with wine. pre-dinner alsoincludeapicnic drinks.Rates lust, solookforwardtointeresting chats over Planet guidesistestament totheirwander- travels. Alibraryfullof well-thumbedLonely rugssourcedontheowners’and Oriental ury B&Bblendsmoderndesignwithantiques .co.nz; OldStationRd;d$455-535; the Rings quest. Ask abouthistimeasa Lester humour, anddinner($50)isavailable byre- breakfasts are delivered withKiwigraceand bathroom, twosharingfacilities).Cooked ground-floor guestrooms(onewithprivate withthreefrom Twizel,isthismodernhouse pi SmithDr;d$135-170; [email protected]; 146Max booking foronly one night. Don’tmake OhauRange. themistake ofBen and aview-enhanceddecklookingoutonthe a B&Blodge withsparklingmodernrooms family-friendly four,and cottage thatsleeps and tage forbackpackers, aself-contained couple, catering toalltastes withacosycot- ing farmandisrunbyaKiwi–SouthAfrican stead 2km northof Twizel.It’sonawork- relaxing thankickingbackatthisruralhome- $115-125; SH8;dm/d/tr$22/55/66, cottaged$100,B&B .omahau.co.nz; back lodge that’sperfect for backpackers. groups orfamilies.There’s alsoasmall,laid- a numberof two-bedroom forlarger setups The cheapest unitsare studios,butthere are A-frameequipped, self-contained chalets. from $20/1130) 435 0785;www.mountainchalets.co.nz; Wairepo Rd;dm/d 570 pi Dr;d .twizel.com/colonialmotel; 38Mackenzie $110-120; pi Dr;d 10Mackenzie www.aspencourt.co.nz; $130-150; Lake RuataniwhaHomestays Lake o Mountain ChaletMotels Matuka Lodge Matuka Also recommended: OT ATRUY • akni onr Country SOUTH CANTERBURY••Mackenzie ) ) ) h En route to Lake Ruataniwha, 4km Ruataniwha, Enroute toLake h extra. 11am-2pm &5-10pm Tue-Sun) Omahau Downs Omahau closed Jun-Aug) Recommendedplacewithwell- ( %

( ( %

0800 355722,03-4350100;www ( % % 03-435 0144;www.matukalodge 0800 277364,03-4350857; 03-435 3232; 1 Market Pl;mains 03-435 3232;1Market There’s nothingmore

pi ( ( % %

03-435 0199;www 0800 629999,03- ( % Surrounded ) 03-435 0532; Thailand Lord of more formalexperiencewithAorakisalmon like tempura prawns,anddinnerisaslightly dining scene. Lunch meals lighter showcases tile PoppiesisaclassyadditiontotheTwizel cookies atintermission. Ask at the i-SITE. GETTING THERE&AWAYGETTING adult/child $13/9) Big SkyMovies ENTERTAINMENT tasty middle ground. pizzasoccupya and lambrump.Excellent $14-19, dinnermains$24-30; amid thesurrounding alpine vistas. are andendanactive agoodwaytostart day for Twizel.Bigbreakfasts andgourmetpizzas create amoodthat’ssurprisinglysophisticated 32; it morphs into a pub. as wellcheaper atnight barsnacks.Later orribeyesteak), Benmore from nearbyLake with generous mainsof localproduce(salmon 11am-2.30pmSun) Sat, 11am-8.30pmFri, meals $17-26; is heat. Sadly,Singha not available. supermarket theauthentic inthemalltoease Grab afew coldbeers fromtheFourSquare avnuos trampers. adventurous ing areas are alsoscattered for throughout Conservation Area pamphlet are inthe DOC detailed merous walksin this vastrecreation grove Ahuriri) are administered The nu- byDOC. Hopkins, Huxley,Temple, Ohauand Six forests Ohauarea intheLake (Dobson, Lake Ohau&Forests to Christchurch and Queenstown/Wanaka. over more than one day. on fromMtCooktoTekapo. Travel canbe daily) andforanadditional$25youcancarry .co.nz) ( www.intercitycoach.co.nz) .atomictravel.co.nz) ators such as Christchurch are offered byanumberof oper- to and Wanaka,northbound services toMtCook,Queenstown Southbound services % Naked Bus Naked Cook Connection Poppies Cafe Shawty’s Café &Bar Cafe Hunter’s h 0508 458835; www.southernlinkcoaches.co.nz). operates toMtCook(one-way$20,one 8.30am-late) h

(www.nakedbus.com) Atomic Shuttles Atomic Look forwardtofreshly baked , ( ( %

( 11am-2.30pm &5-8.30pmMon-Thu & InterCity/Newmans Cool beatsandboutiquebeers % % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels (

% 03-435 0035;TwizelEventsCentre; 03-435 3155; 4 Market Pl;meals$15- 03-435 3155;4Market 03-435 3308;1Benmore Pl;pizza and ($1);hutsand camp-

0800 266526;www.cookconnect ( % h Southern LinkCoaches 03-435 0303; 2 Market Pl; 03-435 0303;2Market 10am-late) (

% travel fromhere 03-349 0697;www An airyspace (

% The versa- 03-365 1113; Ohau

Lake OhauRd;s$80-145,d$90-160) Lake it’s aquieter retreat. backpacker-style toupmarket roomswith are from foraccommodationonly(everything Ohau,42kmwestofLake Twizel.Priceslisted on thewestern shore of therower-friendly Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Perouse, Douglas and Hicks, DelaBeche, Tasman,Sefton, Silberhorn,Malte Brun,La Among theregion’s manygreat peaks are the dauntingface routes have climbed. been the summitof MtEverest. Since then, mostof Hillary wentontobecomethefirst toreach with Tenzing Norgay, climbedthesouthridge; mit. In1948EdmundHillary’sparty, along became thefirst womantoreach thesum- summit. the days,and stoodon a brilliantclimbinthose cended theHooker Glacierandnorth ridge, the visitors. OnChristmasDay1884theyas- toclimbitbefore off to attempt Cook, andset well-known Europeanalpinistswere coming spurred intoactionbythenewsthattwo George GrahamandJack Clarke –were later atrioof localclimbers –TomFyfe, after anepic 62-hourascent.Buttwoyears pinists failedtoreach thesummitof Cook William SpotswoodGreen andtwoSwiss al- focus of climbinginNZ.On2March 1882, ship survey HMS after James Stokes of Cook byCaptain the Maori wasnamed mythology,themountain (Cloud Piercer),after anancestraldeityin in Australasia. KnowntoMaori asAoraki peak Mt Cook,andat3755mit’sthetallest are isthemighty inthispark.Thehighest permanent snowand glacial ice. than one-thirdof theparkhasablanket of more OhauRanges, Thumb, LiebigandBen Fenced inbytheSouthernAlpsandTwo Westland’s CookRiver downtotheFiordland. World Heritage Area, which extends from (TeSouthwest NewZealand Wahipounamu) and WestlandNationalParks incorporates the National Park, alongwithFiordland,Aspiring 700-sq-km The spectacular Aoraki/Mt Cook AORAKI/MT COOKNATIONALPARK for the are good value. views);DB&Bpackagesdeck andmountain Lake OhauLodge Lake In 1913,AustralianclimberFreda duFaur The MtCookregion the hasalways been overOf the27NZmountains 3050m,22 centre The lodge isthewintertime service Ohau Ski Field Ohau Ski

( Acheron % (see (see p90 ). Inthesummer 03-438 9885;www.ohau.co.nz; . isidyllicallysited SOUTH CANTERBURY •• Aoraki/Mt CookNationalPark SOUTHCANTERBURY••Aoraki/Mt melting rate andmakes it unsightly. solid massof debris, which slows downits (where itmelts),theTasman iscovered ina a lake. Inotherwords,inits‘ablation zone’ of stones,rocks andboulders andforming melted fromthetopdown,exposingajumble Inrecentalmost horizontal. decadesithas itslastfewis unusualbecause kilometres are buttheTasmanmelts backupthemountain, vancing now.Normallyasaglacier retreats it over theyare thepast century,although ad- in theworld)have generally retreating been ugly.Glaciersdownright inNZ(andelsewhere of sweep ice,butfurtherdownit’s spectacular up,the Higher TASMAN GLACIER Sights day-packs and bags. sleeping gear, andrentstaineering iceaxes, crampons, .alpineguides.co.nz; BowenDr) facilities. banking petrol atTwizelorTekapo. MtCookhasno but youshould stockupongroceriesand theYHAsupplies, asdoes Sleeping, (see p575 ), somefood post. Thehotel’s coffee shopsells www.mount-cook.com. www.mtcook.org.nz androom. Onlinesee to the Sky pers ($25).Ask the tosee ing routes, andhires outbeaconsfortram- weather conditions,guidedtours andtramp- h tre Information edelweiss. and daisies,gentiansCook lily),andmountain brings thelarge buttercup (theMt mountain build thanthethar,andred deer. Summertime climber; thechamois, smallerandof lighter for thethar,agoatlike creature andexcellent the excellentshort walks.Onthetrails,look peak andthesurroundinglandscapetry SH80. Hang aroundtosoakupthisawesome for photos,andthenzoomoff backdown rive stopattheHermitage ontourbuses, hotel there’s nocloudintheway.Mostvisitors ar- ers’ hutsonbothsidesof the divide. Westland NationalPark, andthere are climb- the Minarets. Many canbeascendedfrom The The The Hermitage’s souvenir shophandles Mt Cook is a wonderful sight –assuming Mt Cookisawonderfulsight

8.30am-5pm Oct-Apr, to4.30pmMay-Sep) 8.30am-5pm Oct-Apr, ( % DOC Aoraki/Mt Cookvisitorinformationcen- DOC Aoraki/Mt 03-435 1186; [email protected]; BowenDr; 03-435 1186;[email protected]; Alpine Guidesshop video in a separate screening videoinaseparate Tasman Glacier sells skiingandmoun- sells

( % Mt Cook-Footsteps 03-435 1834;www is apredictably advises on advises

571

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH ὄὄ CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY and commemoratingoneof the mountain’s Hermitage site ontheHooker Valley Track constructed in1884, whenthetrip from ably themostfamous hotel in NZ.Originally viewsofWith fantastic MtCook, this isargu- party was buried. Hochstetter Icefall,2000mbelowwhere the onemelted outofsecond thebottomof the was recovered atthetimebut12years later a an avalanche in1914.Onlyoneof thebodies ciers’ Three speed. climbers were killed by first climbingdisasters, illustrates thegla- move fast.The other sideof thedivide,Mt Cookglaciers advance. later valley wallsandthelateral morainesof this theouter HutRdrunsbetween so theOldBall advance didnotreach outtothevalleysides, Pukaki.Alater outLake tocarve far enough (17,000 years ago),theglaciercrept south be over 600mthick.Initslastmajor advance the site of Hutisstillestimated to theoldBall 572 HERMITAGE Do notproceedpastthispoint Sealy Tarns AORAKI/MT COOKNATIONALPARK (1768m) without seekingadvicefrom Mueller Mueller Like theFox Glaciers andFranzJosef onthe Despite thisconsiderable melt,theiceby Track

Sealy Range DOC inMtCookVillage

(2764m) The Footstool Hut Hoophorn Spur Hoophorn OT ATRUY • oaiM okNtoa ak CookNationalPark SOUTH CANTERBURY••Aoraki/Mt

Hill Camping

Black Kea Point White Horse Kitchener

Area

Stream Birch Birch

Stocking Glacier White Horse

Stream Creek Alpine Memorial (922m)

Track Hill Kea Point Kea See MtCookVillage

Red Tarns

Mt Sebastopol Enlargement Stream Mueller

Track

Lake

Shelter Stocking Stream Hayter (1468m) Valley Rd Valley

Memorial

Alpine Track

Hooker Hooker (900m)

Valley Lake To GlentannerPark Hooker ὄ ὄ Unwin Lodge Glacier Hooker Centre (20km); Twizel(56km)

, neartheold Hooker

80 Mt Wakefield River Department ofConservation Based onmappreparedby (2058m)

Tasman Valley Rd ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄὄ Airport Mt Cook Wakefield Falls was destroyedinaflashflood1913;you Christchurch days,thefirst hotel tookseveral are outlinedinthe brochure Various easy walks fromtheHermitage area WALKING Activities face. indomitable look outthehuge windowsupatMt Cook’s stopforadrink inthebarandetarium, experienced thenew3Dtheatre andplan- in January 2008. only recorded afew months before hedied was recorded forthemuseum commentary greatest of alltime. SirEd’s NewZealander before the deathof themanregarded asthe $25/$12.50; Centre millemmium. new site andanewwingwasaddedforthe same The present Hermitage wasbuiltonthe until1957,whenitburntdown. it survived 2km fromthecurrent Hermitage. Rebuilt, thefoundationsinHooker Valley,can see To BallShelter In late 2007,thenew After you’ve lingered and inthemuseum Hut (5km) Shelter

Tasman ( % River Old Ball Sir Edmund Hermitage; h Governors Hut Rd 0800 686800;www.hermitage.co.nz; adult/child

Hillary Centre (4WD Alpine

Blue Lakes Only) Bush Walk Ὀ Glencoe Ὀ Guides Alpine Blue Shop Red Tarns 10am-late) To KeaPoint Stream 2miles 3km 0 0 Track Shelter Public Tasman CafeBar&Restaurant Tasman Glacier Old Mountaineers Alpine Lodge Aoraki/Mt Cook Lake openedjustthree weeks Hermitage Bowen Bush Motels Chalets Hermitage Sir Edmund Hillary Alpine Sir EdmundHillary DOC Aoraki/MtCook Visitor InformationCentre

Botanical Spur Glencoe Playground Chamois Bar Glencoe Lodge&

Children's Murchison River Walks in Aoraki/ lonelyplanet.com 0 0

YHA Mt Cook Stream 0.1 miles 200 m 80

Hooker Valley Rd 35) coig facilities. cooking life andkea, andendsataplatformwithexcel- from thevillage) islinedwithnative plant pared forsudden weather changes. the visitorinformationcentre. Alwaysbepre- Mt CookNational Park lonelyplanet.com to $30 per night. the aforementioned two,mosthutscost$10 formation centre andpaythehutfee; besides huts, register yourintentions atthevisitorin- hut Shelter herefrom thecarpark;youcanstay at Shelterto Ball (three tofourhours oneway) proach the snubof theglacier,take theroute terminal lake andtheTasman River. Toap- limited mostly totheicygrey sludge of the are buttheviewof spectacular, the glacieris Views of MtCookandthesurroundingarea (more days)ontheway. green thanbluethese on themorainewall,passing track 8km fromthevillage. The at theendof Tasman theunsealed Valley Rd, their viewsof theTasman Glacier. Walksstart dominates Mt Cooktotally the valley. Hooker Glacier. swingbridge, After thesecond to StockingStream andtheterminus of the return) acoupleof crosses swingbridges continues uptheridge to return) branches theKea off PointTrackand The walkto andtheFootstool. the icefacesof MtSefton lent viewsof MtCook,theHooker Valley and If you intend staying atanyofIf youintend staying thepark’s ; a comfortable 30-bunk; acomfortable hutwithgasand The trailto The walkupthe The Tasman Valley walksare popularfor increased thesize ofoneNZ’snewest andcoldestlakes. With adecentwind thelocationoffloatingislandscan changebythehour. could beenoughto rebalance aniceberg and senditspinningandrotatinginthe frigid water. icebergs up.Anicing-sugar-like breaking dusting ofsnowhasfallenovernight, andeven that estimated thatupto5kmhasbeenlostfromNZ’slongest glacier. the Tasman Glaicer’sterminal face. Globalwarminghasexacerbated theproblem, andit’snow ades. Tasman Lake wasfirst formedaround30yearsago,whenhugeswathesoficesheared off Cook NationalPark. The onlybeenaroundafew icemaybecenturiesold,butthelake’s dec- in aninflatableboat( p574 ) amid500-year-old Tasman islandsoficeonLake intheAoraki/Mt is amaze ofhugeicebergs straightfromtheplanet’spolarregions. It’sasurreal feeling cruising When you’re onlyafew tosee fromNZ’shighestmountain,thelastthingyouexpect kilometres TITANIC SCENEONLAKETASMAN (50minutes return) leadstoaviewpoint And comebackin a few ofclimate years,and theongoingimpact changewillhave further isadynamicenvironment andthere’sThe lake ice-strewn alwaysthedangerofone (dm $5) Sealy TarnsSealy SOUTH CANTERBURY •• Aoraki/Mt CookNationalPark SOUTHCANTERBURY••Aoraki/Mt Kea Point Kea . Hooker Valley Hooker (three tofourhours ($1),available from (twohours return Mueller Hut Mueller Tasman GlacierView (three hours Blue Lakes (dm $30-

Ball

the Tasman canmeansuddenstorms. Sea coast andweatherconditionsrollinginfrom around here; MtCookisonly44kmfromthe 2008. January guidewaskilledinSouth Islandmountain on MtCookin1907,andanexperienced formation centre beginswiththefirst death bleak InMemoriam bookinthevisitorin- died inclimbingaccidentsthepark.The take precaution every as200peoplehave for climbing,butregardless of yourskills, For theexperienced,there’s unlimited scope MOUNTAINEERING costs $650(November to April only). Trek theTasman between andHooker Valleys touring. Thechallenging Pass three-day Ball area, courses andski aswellmountaineering guidedtreksorganises high-altitude inthe www.alpinerecreation.com) organised. be walkscanalso Hooker Glacier;half-day Hooker Valley totheterminal lake of the 8km walkfromtheHermitage the through full-day walkadult/child$110/70) ( From November toMarch, Guided Walks tackling trails. these here, andmost walkers shouldn’tconsider tracks dangerous. Many peoplehave died altitudesaretions athigher severe andthe experience,ascondi- with mountaineering Longer walksare onlyrecommended forthose Longer Walks % The highly changeableThe highly weatherisvital Alpine Recreation 0800 686800,03-4351899;www.ultimatehikes.co.nz;

( % , based in Lake Tekapo, inLake , based 0800 006096,03-6806736; offers aday-long Ultimate Hikes Ultimate 573

CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY 8034; www.mtcookskiplanes.com) involving twodaystouringinthehigh (adult/child $230/199). option; trythe25-minute Mini Tasman trip withouta landing isacheaper Flightseeing child $450/340),both with snowlandings. $340/250) and55-minute (adult/ flights Cook Airport,offers 40-minute (adult/child Planes Mount CookSki AERIAL SIGHTSEEING plore on themountains two feet. ($500),andotherwaystoex- or snowshoes Tekapo,country aroundLake wearing skis www.alpinerecreation.com) the OldMountaineers ( Café/Bar opposite ). Cheaper one-runoptionsare available. Ask at ing optionsincludingTasman Glacier($695). cook.com) ($825). Ranges tical metres) intheLiebigorMalte Brun to five runs(runsaverage 750to1200ver- plus awildernessheliskiingtripwithfour long) andthree ($725), ski-planeflights involving twoskiruns(each upto10km NZ –there are daytripsonTasman Glacier .heliskiing.co.nz) peaks in onthehighest It’s specialtyisglacierheliskiing(www andalpinesnowboardingcourses.eering tailored ski-touringtripsandski-mountain- .co.nz; BowenDr) Alpine Guides SKI TOURING&HELISKIING ($8600). Tasman $1000) andguidedascentsof Mt CookorMt (a four-day introductiontoclimbingcosts summertime programmeof climbingcourses www.alpinerecreation.com; of Mt Cook ($4950). ascents toweek-long courses ($1750)through Experience introductoryMountain seven-day .co.nz; BowenDr; out againwhen you return. you ifyou’re overdue comingout,andsign before out,sorangers starting cancheck on advice. Filloutaclimber’sintentions card theirtempting anyclimbandalwaysheed don’t climbanywhere without a guide. Unless you’re experiencedinsuch conditions, 574 Alpine Recreation Alpine Guides Check withtheparkrangers before at- Alpine Recreation Southern AlpsGuiding OT ATRUY • oaiM okNtoa ak CookNationalPark SOUTH CANTERBURY••Aoraki/Mt hasarange of heliskiingandboard- h , over thewinter months, does

(

% ( Nov-Mar) % 03-435 1834;www.alpineguides

( ( 03-435 1834;www.alpineguides % % has awinter program

hasguidedclimbsfrom h

( 0800 006096,03-6806736; 0800 006096,03-6806736; ( % % Nov-Apr) 0800 800702,03-430 03-435 1890;www.mt , based atMt, based also hasa /two-hr rides $50/70; rides /two-hr a glacier hike. Hooker Valley. Foranother$95incorporate negotiating icebergs acrossglacialbaysinthe $100) trips cook.com; theboxedold icebergs. See text, p573 . and get andpersonal upclose with500-year where inflatable youboardasmallmotorised walktotheshore of Tasman, Lake half-hour nal lake of theTasman Glacier. witha Itstarts ers.com; adult/child$120/60) weather-dependent and seasonal. activities andtours. Note mostof themare provide informationandmake bookingsfor Hermitage, theYHA Park andGlentanner The visitorinformationcentre, the OTHER ACTIVITIES Line p566) andtheTwizelbranch of the Cook ($415).Allfeature snow landings. over flight High theTasman GlacierandbyMt ($290),anda45-minute Mountains Range overhilarating 30-minute Ohau flight theBen ($210),anex- 20-minute flights AlpineVista ( Hooker Valley;Hooker per nightadult/child$6/3) coin-operated showers. village, which hasrunningwater, toilets and ( andwalkersCampers the canuse Sleeping $130, November toMay). guided wildernesshike Ridge (from totheBall by van withwalking,includinga sightseeing Theyalsooffersheep. guided tours blending thelocal slow downwithafarmtourandmeet Afterwards,tours countrystation. onahigh tours.co.nz; tour$395; way. the andalpinefloraalongesting commentary aninter-walk toaglacierviewpoint.Expect 4WD tripsuptoHuskyFlatwitha15-minute tours.co.nz; adult/child$110/55) oflevels experience are welcomed. treks All sheep station. onahigh-country % h White Horse Hill Camping Area Camping HorseHill White Tours Discovery Glacier Sea-kayaking Glacier Explorers Other operators include Glentanner HorseTrekking Alan’s 4WDTours From Glentanner Park,From Glentanner the se p569). (see 0800 650651,03-4351801;www.helicopter.co.nz) 8am to 7pm Oct-Apr, 8amto5pmMay-Sep) 8am to7pmOct-Apr, Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels hasthree-hour kayaktrips

h h

( (

% ( % % Oct-May) Oct–mid-Apr) headsoutonthetermi- 03-435 1077;www.glacierexplor 0800 213868;www.discovery 03-435 0441;www.mountcook

( % operates 2½-hour operates helibiking

03-435 1890;www.mt ( % Air Safaris

leadsguided 03-435 1855;one- ( % Thisbasic Helicopter Line Helicopter publicshelter 03-435 1186; Helicopter Helicopter inthe (see (see does does

1860; www.aorakialpinelodge.co.nz; BowenDr;tw&d$144- 1860; www.aorakialpinelodge.co.nz; .thehermitage.co.co.nz; Terrace Rd;r$220-880; or cooking facilities. and anewamenitiesblock,butnoelectricity There’s running water (boilbefore drinking) Track, 2kmfromAoraki/MtCookvillage. pointfortheHookerat thestarting Valley campingground self-registration DOC-run, lonelyplanet.com nally rooms (doubles$610 to $880)invarious Lodge (fortourgroups), andfi- at Glencoe (double/quad $280/315), hotel-style rooms and includingakitchen. Next are motel units uptofour (double/quad $255/295) sleeping beds are inwell-equippedA-frame chalets tion withitsroomrates. Theleastexpensive village andcontinuestoleverage thatposi- accommodation inthe has longmonopolised soulless complexthat enormous andslightly going togrill the steak. viewswillhavemountain youarguing who’s area, and thealfresco barbecuewithsuperb facilities includeahuge lounge andkitchen inthevillage.the bestplacetostay Shared lodge withtwin,doubleandfamilyroomsis warm welcome. Justafew years old,thiscosy and underfloorheating,theplaceensures a 175, f$195-220; store here.luggage advance. If you’re mountain-bound youcan also available. Tryandbookafew daysin facilities fortravellers are withdisabilities clean andspacious,familyrooms warming logfires andDVDs.Roomsare lent hostel hasafree dryingroom, sauna, Dr; dm/d$29/76; Bowen &Kitchener rant, andbookstours and activities. dormitory (openOctober toApril),arestau- upwithvariouscabins,a north. It’swellset and hasgreat viewsof MtCook,25kmto the ity-laden campinggroundtothenationalpark shore of Pukaki,thisisthenearest Lake facil- $26/30, dm$25,cabins$70-110) 1855; www.glentanner.co.nz; unpowered/powered sites views upthe Tasman Glacier. room withafireplace, kitchen andexcellent ies. There are basicbunks, andabigcommon beds are usually available forclimbinggroup- Club (NZAC). Members get preference, but Alpine this lodge belongstotheNewZealand SH80; dm$25; Hermitage o Mt CookYHA Glentanner Park Centre Unwin Lodge Aoraki/Mt CookAlpineLodge Aoraki/Mt i

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) % ( % SOUTH CANTERBURY •• Aoraki/Mt CookNationalPark SOUTHCANTERBURY••Aoraki/Mt ) WithcolourfulTurkishrugs 0800 686800,03-4351809;www 03-435 1100;www.alpineclub.org.nz; 03-435 1820;www.yha.co.nz; cnr

( % Onthenorthern 0800 453682,03-435 i ) Thisexcel- ( % i 03-435 ) An late daily Oct-Mar, Thu-Sat only Apr-Sep) Thu-SatonlyApr-Sep) late dailyOct-Mar, Glencoe Lodge, 500m fromtheYHA,Glencoe where with localtreats includinggrilledMtCook flights areflights heavily dependent on weather. but withascenic flight, Coast (ieFranzJosef) theWest willing tocombine transportto,say, companies.Someof may be these sightseeing aerial The village’s small airport onlyserves Getting There&Away summer. during and travellers who callthevillage home the international crew of guides mountain to catch upover aburger ornachos with and theoccasionallive gig. It’sagoodplace big-screenit entertains withapooltable, TV, permitting). cover (cloudviews of MtCookand Sefton Don’t worry;theyallcomewithstunning cocktails. menusorsunset and wine-tasting appreciation specialbeer between to choose Edmund HillaryAlpineCentre. You’ll need geous sceneryatthebarSir mountain aglasstotheoutra- cooked venison. Raise lambrack andslow- Canterbury salmon, h at the extensive deck,orwaitfordinneranddine Alpine Centre. Grab outsideonthe atable 15; two hours –whenitkicksoff at 5pm. stillbetheremight forhappyhour–actually memorabilia. You pics andmountaineering the Hermitage. Linger tostudytheoldB&W is agoodvaluealternative totheeateries at top notch burgers, and andsalad pizza,pasta insummer,thisplacedeliversoutside tables i ( more simple palates. andfishsandwiches and chips willplease menu, there’s more atad sophistication.Steak risotto cakes andlocalsmoked onthe salmon a school cafeteria, butwithcrispymushroom $10-20; Glentanner Restaurant Eating &Drinking steep accommodation prices. awelcomereduction in sees to September) dinner andacooked breakfast). Winter (April wings of thehotel proper(hotel rates include % o A smaller,lessformal The Hermitage ( p572 ) hasa h ) 6pm-late) Cosyinwinter, viewsfrom withmountain 03-435 1890;BowenDr;mains$20-35; 7.30am-4pm) h Panorama Restaurant 9am-4pm) Old Mountaineers Café, Bar & Restaurant Bar&Restaurant Old MountaineersCafé, , atop-notch àlacarte restaurant at theSirEdmundHillary The décor might resemble Thedécormight

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CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY $69), Queenstown (one-way$69)andWanaka $69), Queenstown coach.co.nz) 9020) the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake tripcost- (orreverse)Queenstown sightseeing Cook Wanderer, aChristchurch–Mt Cook– (www.newmanscoach.co.nz) which handle bookings. stop attheYHA andtheHermitage, bothof (one-way withachange inTarras, $53);buses Head to parture of theNewmansCoach Linesservice. Cook with 576 InterCity subsidiary If youbookaone-waytripto/fromMt OT ATRUY • oaiM okNtoa ak CookNationalPark SOUTH CANTERBURY••Aoraki/Mt Queenstown

Mt CookfromChristchurch (one-way , you’llenduponthemorningde- InterCity ( % 03-441 1344)

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03-365 1113;www.intercity Newmans CoachLines Christchurch runs theMt ( % 03-379

(for a fee). summoning anattendant fromtheHermitage Cook, butit’sexpensive andusuallyinvolves TekapoLake orTwizel.There ispetrolatMt Wanaka Queenstown, and Dunedin. on tomajor centres such asChristchurch, townslinkto inthese way $28).Busservices TekapoTwizel (one-way$20)andLake (one- 211; www.cookconnect.co.nz) from Wanaka are available. Connections and $114/76fromQueenstown. ing $148/99peradult/child fromChristchurch The If you’re drivinghere, it’sbesttofillupat CookConnection has shuttle services to hasshuttle services

( % 0800 266526,021583 lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com

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CANTERBURY CANTERBURY CHRISTCHURCH & & CHRISTCHURCH