Christchurch & Canterbury

Home , Akaroa, Avon River (Wollongong), Burkes Pass, Christchurch Airport, Christchurch Arts Centre, Dux de Lux

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

This chapter was researched in December 2011 for the 16th edition of Lonely Planet’s New Zealand (to be published September 2012). It is provided free, without ﬁ nalised editing or full mapping, in order to provide the most up-to-date post-quake travel information to travellers as quickly as possible.

Christchurch & Canterbury

Why Go? Nowhere in New Zealand is changing and developing as fast Christchurch ...... 2 as post-earthquake Christchurch, and visiting the country’s Around Christchurch ..... 22 second largest city as it’s being rebuilt and reborn is both Lyttelton ...... 22 interesting and inspiring. Akaroa & Banks A short drive from Christchurch’s dynamic re-emer- Peninsula ...... 23 gence, Banks Peninsula conceals hidden bays and beaches North Canterbury ...... 28 – a backdrop for kayaking and wildlife cruises with a sun- Hanmer Springs ...... 28 set return to the attractions of Akaroa. To the north are the vineyards of the Waipara Valley and the family-holiday Lewis Pass Hwy ...... 31 ambience of Hanmer Springs. Westwards, the well-or- Central Canterbury ...... 32 dered farms of the Canterbury Plains morph quickly into Craigieburn Forest Park .32 the rough-and-tumble wilderness of the Southern Alps. Arthur’s Pass ...... 32 Canterbury summertime attractions include tramping Methven ...... 34 along the braided rivers and alpine valleys around Arthur’s Mt Somers ...... 35 Pass and mountain biking around the turquoise lakes of the South Canterbury ...... 36 Mackenzie Country. During winter, the attention switches Timaru ...... 36 to the mountains, with skiing at Mt Hutt. Throughout the seasons, Aoraki/Mt Cook, the country’s tallest peak, stands Inland & Mackenzie Country ...... 38 sentinel over this diverse region. Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park...... 44 When to Go Best Places to Eat January Christchurch comes alive with the World Buskers Festival, a » Bodhi Tree (p 15 ) global showcase of street performance. » Simo’s Deli (p 17 ) February to March » Christchurch Farmers Market (p 17 ) Long summer days provide plenty of opportunity to get active amid Canterbury’s spectacular landscapes. » Almeidas Tapas Bar (p 15 ) July to October Best Places to Hit the slopes at Mt Hutt, or go local on Canterbury’s smaller Stay ski fi elds. » Orari B&B (p 12 ) » Le Petit Hotel (p15 ) » Coombe Farm (p 26 ) » Okuti Garden (p 26 ) 2 8 Getting There & Away and innovative layer to its damaged heritage heart. Punts still glide gently down the Avon Christchurch has an international airport serviced by domestic airlines fl ying to key des- River, and the Botanic Gardens and Hagley tinations around NZ. International connections Park are still amongst NZ’s fi nest public include Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne and the spaces, but an energetic entrepreneurial Gold Coast in Australia, and Kuala Lumpur and edge is also evident, harnessing the oppor-

LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND Singapore in Asia. tunities emerging from the city’s recent seis- Bus and shuttle operators scurry along the mic heartache. east coast, connecting Canterbury’s coastal (and near-coastal) settlements with northern History destinations such as Picton and Nelson, and The settlement of Christchurch in 1850 was southern towns like Dunedin and Queenstown. an ordered Church of England enterprise, Other operators connect Christchurch to and the fertile farming land was deliber- Arthur’s Pass, the West Coast and Mt Cook. ately placed in the hands of the gentry. Rail options for east-coast and coast-to-coast Christchurch was meant to be a model of travel are provided by KiwiRail Scenic (www. class-structured England in the South Pa- tranzscenic.co.nz). The TranzAlpine service ciﬁ c, not just another scruﬀ y colonial out- connects Christchurch and Greymouth, and post. Churches were built rather than pubs, the Coastal Pacific trains chug north to Picton, and wool made the elite of Christchurch with ferry connections across Cook Strait to the wealthy. In 1862, Christchurch was incor- North Island. porated as a very English city, and town

CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY planning and architecture assumed a close aﬃ nity with the ‘Mother Country’. As other CHRISTCHURCH migrants arrived, the city’s character slowly

380,900 evolved. New industries followed, and the Welcome to a vibrant city in transition, cop- city forged its own aesthetic and cultural ing resiliently and creatively with the after- notions, often derived from the rich rural math of NZ’s second-biggest natural disaster hinterland of the Canterbury Plains. From (especially as tremors can still be felt regu- September 2010, the city’s reverie as the larly). Traditionally the most English of NZ South Island’s cultural and economic hub cities, Christchurch is now adding a modern was savagely torn asunder, and Christch- urch was forced to look to the future with both signifi cant challenges and signifi cant ESSENTIAL opportunities. CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY FACTS 1 Sights » Eat Amid the emerging Addington F Botanic Gardens GARDENS restaurant scene in Christchurch (www.ccc.govt.nz; Rolleston Ave; admission free, » Drink NZ’s best craft beer at guided walks $10, train tour adult/child $18/9; Christchurch’s Pomeroy’s Old Brewery hgrounds 7am-1hr before sunset, conservatories In (p 17 )n 10.15am-4pm, cafe 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.15am- 4pm Sat & Sun; p) The Botanic Gardens com- » Read Old Bucky & Me, a poignant prise 30 riverside hectares planted with account of the 2011 earthquake by 10,000-plus specimens of indigenous and Christchurch journalist Jane Bowron introduced plants. There are conservatories » Listen To the best of up-and-coming and thematic gardens to explore, lawns to bands at Christchurch’s Dux Live (p 18 ) sprawl on, and a cafe at the Botanic Gar- and darkroom (p19 ) dens visitors centre. Get the kids active in » Watch When a City Falls, a moving the playground adjacent to the cafe. Guided documentary about the 2010 and 2011 walks depart daily at 1.30pm (September earthquakes to April) from the Canterbury Museum, » Go green At the ecofriendly Okuti or you can ride around the gardens in the Garden (p26 ) on Banks Peninsula electric ‘Caterpillar’ train: hop-on/hop-off tickets (www.gardentour.co.nz) are valid » Get info at www.christchurchnz.com for two days (from 10am-4pm) and include and www.mtcooknz.com a commentary. » Telephone code %03 3 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND CHRISTCHURCHSIGHTS CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY

airport WILDLIFE g ; sculpture p (p 40 ) (p 2 ) (p 41 ) 9am-5.30pm; 9am-5.30pm; ered devastating damage h ﬀ Mt John by bike, kayak and boat kayak bike, by

Christchurch Christchurch CBD (Central Business District), CBD ﬀ was erected to commemo- in 2001 by punt or bicycle punt by (p 23 )

Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park National Park Cook Aoraki/Mt The International Antarctic The Centre is International 03-353 7798, 0508 736 4846; www.iceberg. 0508 736 7798, 03-353 At the time of writing, the future of the Other heritage buildings around Cathe- At the centre of the square, ChristChurch At the centre of the square, 6 ) (p % Chalice rate the new millennium. in the 22 February 2011 earthquake, bring- 2011 in the 22 February 63m-high ing down the Gothic church’s half of the only the bottom spire and leaving tower remaining. At the time of the earth- had it was feared up to 20 people quake, been in the spire when it collapsed, but it was later found that no one had actually died at the site. Subsequent earthquakes in destroyed theDecember 2011 and 2011 June rose win- prized stained-glass Cathedral’s and the cathedral was deconsecrated dow, in October 2011. cathedral was uncertain, and no decision had been made on its demolition or rebuild. for See www.christchurchcathedral.co.nz the latest information. The draftplan to rebuild Christchurch recommends that Ca- thedral Square be transformed into a park. dral Square were also badly damaged, but one modern landmark was unscathed following the earthquakes. Designed by Neil the 18m-high metal Dawson, thedral Square. At the time of writing thethedral Square. At the cor- square was in the heart of the city’s doned-o reopened aroundbut was planned to be of 2012. April or May constructedCathedral was originally in icon of the city. 1881, and is a much-loved The cathedral su parthuge complex of a built for the admin- co.nz; 38 Orchard Rd; adult/child/family from from adult/child/family Rd; 38 Orchard co.nz; adult/child/ Pass Backstage Penguin $35/20/95, $25/15/80; family International Antarctic Centre International Antarctic Centre ( bus) Alpine Springs & Spa Alpine Springs SQUARE MUSEUM Avon River Avon Banks Peninsula Banks 9am-5pm HISTORIC SITE HISTORIC h c and beyond fi The absorbing cance to NZ. High- cance fi ). (greenstone) pieces on 17 8.30am-7pm Oct-Mar, 9am-5pm Oct-Mar, 8.30am-7pm h (p 34 ) pounamu This precinct is currently closed, Christchurch’s historic hub is Ca- Christchurch’s ) ed birds from the Paci rst split the atom in 1917. Before the rst split the atom in 1917. ff fi p Being surprised by the size of the Canterbury Plains on a balloon flight from flight from Plains on a balloon the Canterbury of the size by Being surprised Taking a soothing soak at Lake Tekapo’s Tekapo’s at Lake soak a soothing Taking of reaches the outer Negotiating in peak highest NZ’s of in the shadow Tramping Supporting the exciting rebuild and re-emergence of of re-emergence and rebuild exciting Supporting the Christchurch’s along Meandering atop from Country the Mackenzie of at the views Marvelling

03-366 0046; www.christchurchcathedral.co.nz; 0046; www.christchurchcathedral.co.nz; 03-366 03-366 5000; www.canterburymuseum.com; 5000; www.canterburymuseum.com; 03-366 » » » » » » » CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY HIGHLIGHTS CANTERBURY & CHRISTCHURCH Methven Methven (p 44 ) % % Canterbury has a wonderful col- Museum lectionsigni of items of with some gallery, lights include the Maori stunning Apr-Sep) admission free; free; admission Rolleston Ave; admission by donation; by admission Ave; Rolleston ( Arts Centre Arts Centre Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar) 5.30pm to Apr-Sep, Cathedral Square Square Cathedral (www.artscentre.org.nz; 2 Worcester St; admission Worcester 2 (www.artscentre.org.nz; free; Canterbury Museum ( pending strengthening and repairs esti- pending strengthening of enclave million. An mated to cost $240 Gothic Revival buildings (built from 1877), it was the original site of Canterbury Col- lege, which later became Canterbury Uni- One graduate of the college was Sir versity. the NZ-born physicist Ernest Rutherford, who earthquakes, the Arts was a popular Centre cultural precinct comprising artists’ studios craftand galleries, weekend markets, restaurants and cinemas. One business still operating from a modern building within the Arts Centre is the excellent Canterbury Cheesemongers (p display; the coracle in the Antarctic display; Hall on Disap- used by a group shipwrecked in 1907; and a wide array pointment Island of stu – don’t miss the statuesque Emperor penguin. Guided tours (donations appreciated) and run from 3.30pm to 4.30pm on Tuesday Kids will enjoy the interactive Thursday. in the Discoverydisplays Centre (admission $2). Don’t miss the gloriously kitsch Kiwiana Shell House. Paua & Myrtle’s of Fred 4

THE CHRISTCHURCH EARTHQUAKES

Christchurch’s seismic nightmare began at 4.35am on 4 September 2010. Centered 40km west of the city, a 40-second, 7.1-magnitude earthquake jolted Cantabrians from their sleep, and caused widespread damage to older buildings in the central city. Close to the quake’s epicentre in rural Darfi eld, huge gashes erupted amid grassy pastures, and LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND the South Island’s main railway line was bent and buckled. Because the tremor struck in the early hours of the morning, there were no fatalities, and many Christchurch residents really felt the city had dodged a bullet. Fast forward to 12.51pm on 22 February 2011, when central Christchurch was busy with shoppers and offi ce and retail workers enjoying their lunch break. This time the 6.8-magnitude quake was much closer, centred just 10km southeast of the city and only 5km deep. The tremor was signifi cantly more extreme, and many locals report being fl ung violently and almost vertically into the air. The peak ground acceleration (PGA) exceeded 1.8, almost twice the acceleration of gravity. When the dust settled after 24 traumatic seconds, NZ’s second-largest city had changed forever. The towering spire of the iconic Christ Church Cathedral lay in ruins; walls and verandahs had cascaded down on the city’s central retail hub; and two multi- storey buildings had pancaked, causing scores of deaths. Around half of the quake’s total of 181 deaths (across 20 nationalities) occurred in the Canterbury TV building, including

CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY many international students at a language school. Elsewhere in the city, the historic port town of Lyttelton was badly damaged; roads and bridges were crumpled by nature’s fury; and residential suburbs in the east were inundated by tonnes of oozing, silty liquefaction rising from the ground. After 22 February, the resilience and bravery of Cantabrians quickly became evident. From the region’s rural heartland, the ‘Farmy Army’ descended on the city, armed with shovels and food hampers. Social media mobilised 10,000 students, and the Student Volunteer Army became a vital force for residential clean-ups in the city’s beleaguered eastern suburbs. Heartfelt aid and support arrived from across NZ’s close-knit population of just 4.4 million, and seven other nations sent specialised urban-search-and- rescue teams. Twelve months after the events of February 2011, the city’s population was still bravely coping with their lives, besieged by thousands of aftershocks. Most tremors were small and there were no fatalities or injuries after February 2011, but signifi cant jolts were recorded in June 2011 and December 2011. At the time of writing, earthquake activity was reported to be moving further east into the Pacifi c Ocean, and peak ground acceleration was decreasing. The impact of a warm summer’s day in early 2011 will take longer than a generation to resolve. Around a quarter of the buildings within the city’s famed four avenues need to be demolished. Entire streets and family neighbourhoods in the eastern suburbs will be abandoned, and Christchurch’s heritage architecture is irrevocably damaged. The cost to repair and rebuild the city could exceed NZ$30 billion, making it history’s third most costly natural disaster. In December 2011, the infl uential United States magazine Foreign Policy nominated Christchurch one of the urban centres of the 21st century, opining that the ‘massive rebuilding eff ort is a unique opportunity to rethink urban form.’ Draft plans for the city’s rebuild over 20 years include a compact, low-rise city centre, neighbourhood green spaces and parks and cycleways along the Avon River. Coupled with the endurance and energy of the people of Christchurch, the city’s future promises to be both interesting and innovative.

istration of the NZ, US and Italian Antarctic ice in McMurdo Sound. Other attractions programs. See penguins and learn about include a ‘4D’ theatrette – a 3D ﬁ lm plus the icy continent via historical, geologi- moving seats and a watery spray – and the cal and zoological exhibits. There’s also an Antarctic Storm chamber, where you can get aquarium of creatures gathered under the a ﬁ rst-hand taste of –18°C wind chill. An Ex- 5 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND CHRISTCHURCHSIGHTS CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY

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F guided tours Wed, 9pm to Thu-Tue, 10am-5pm Ricc RICCARTON Greater Christchurch h (www.christchurchartgallery.org.nz; cnr Worcester Worcester cnr (www.christchurchartgallery.org.nz; free; guided tours free, admission Sts; & Montreal F outside the Canterbury Museum. walk from the main terminal – or the free Express Penguin treme Pass (adult/child/family $65/35/165) (adult/child/family treme Pass includes unlimited rides on the Hägglund outdoor adventure course. An optional extra which takes Backstage Pass, is the Penguin visitors behind the scenes of the Penguin options include the Transport Encounter. Flyer (p City 11am Mon-Sun, plus 2pm Sat & Sun & 7.15pm Wed) 7.15pm & Sun & plus 2pm Sat 11am Mon-Sun, reopening being planned – has an engrossing permanent collection divided into historical, 20th-century and contemporary gal- Set in an eye-catching metal-and-glass con- art gallerystruction – built in 2003, the city’s closed at the time of writing, with a de 6 10.40am daily, taking in feeding time for the 2 Activities Sumatra tigers; another 2.30pm departure Christchurch’s most popular activities are visits the lion enclosure. Check the website gentler than the adrenaline-fuelled pursuits for feeding times and other optional Orana of Queenstown and Wanaka: the city is bet- experiences for more personal interactions ter suited to punting down the Avon River, with some of the animals. Phone 03-379 cycling through the easy terrain of Hagley

LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND 1699 for shuttle transport to Orana. Park or negotiating the walking trails at Lyt- Willowbank Wildlife Reserve WILDLIFE RESERVE telton Harbour. The closest beaches to the (www.willowbank.co.nz; 60 Hussey Rd; adult/child/ city are Waimairi, North Beach, New Bright- family $25/10/65; h9.30am-dusk; p) About on and South Brighton; buses 5, 49 and 60 6km north of the city, Willowbank is an- head here. Sumner, to the city’s southeast, other good animal reserve, focusing on na- is another popular beach, with good restau- tive NZ animals and hands-on enclosures rants (take bus 3), while further east at Tay- with alpacas, wallabies and deer. Tours are lors Mistake are some good surﬁ ng breaks. held several times a day, and Willowbank’s Several skiing areas lie within a two-hour escorted after-dark tours are a good oppor- drive of Christchurch. Other active options tunity to see a kiwi. Phone 03-359 6226 or accessible from Christchurch include cruis- ask at the i-SITE about free shuttle transport ing on Akaroa Harbour, rafting on the Ran- to Willowbank. gitata River, tandem skydiving, hot-air ballooning, jetboating the Waimakariri River Gondola CABLE CAR and horse trekking. Inquire at the i-SITE CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY (www.gondola.co.nz; 10 Bridle Path Rd; return adult/ (p20 ). child/family $24/10/59; h10am-9pm; p; gLyttel- The i-SITE also has information on walks ton 28) At the time of writing, this attraction around Christchurch and in the Port Hills. was closed following the 2011 earthquakes, Some of the following popular walks were but was planned to reopen by September closed at the time of writing due to rock falls 2012. Check the website for the latest in- and instability following the earthquakes, so formation. Before the quakes, the gondola it’s vital to check the current situation at the whisked visitors from the Heathcote Valley i-SITE before setting oﬀ . Also search www. terminal to the cafe-restaurant complex on ccc.govt.nz with the keywords ‘Port Hills’ Mt Cavendish (500m) in 10 minutes. Expect for the current status of all of the following great views over Lyttelton Harbour and to- tracks. wards the Southern Alps. For great views of the city, take the walkway from the Sign of the Takahe on Dyers

MAORI NZ: CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY

Only 5% of NZ’s Maori live on the South Island. The south was settled a few hundred years later than the north, with signifi cant numbers coming south only after land became scarcer on the North Island. Before that, Maori mostly travelled to the south in search of moa, fi sh and West Coast pounamu (greenstone). The major iwi (tribe) of the South Island is Ngai Tahu (www.ngaitahu.iwi.nz), ironically now one of the country’s wealthiest as it’s much richer in land and natural resources (per person) than the North Island tribes. In Christchurch, as in other cities, there are urban Maori of many other iwi as well. Ko Tane (%03-359 6226; www.kotane.co.nz; 60 Hussey Rd; dancing-tour-dinner package adult/child $110/54; h5.30pm Mon & Thu-Sat) at the Willowbank Wildlife Reserve (p 6 ) features traditional dancing, including the haka and the poi dance. If you’re feeling creative, the Bone Dude (p7 ), John Fraser, trains visitors to do their own bone carving at his studio in Christchurch. You’ll unearth Maori artefacts at Christchurch’s Canterbury Museum (p3 ) and at the Akaroa Museum (p 24 ) and the Maori & Colonial Museum (p 24) in Okains Bay on the Banks Peninsula. Further north in Timaru, the Te Ana Maori Rock Art Centre (p 36 ) presents the fascinating story of NZ’s indigenous rock art, and also arranges tours to see the centuries-old work in situ. 7 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND CHRISTCHURCHACTIVITIES CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY - ff Take to BICYCLE RENTAL BICYCLE RENTAL BICYCLE BICYCLE RENTAL BICYCLE . in the funky in the funky Mountain bikes Mountain Sumner or shopping er. Check the website for the er. ff Creative types should book a should book Creative types Lyttelton to explore its wildlife-rich harbour, harbour, wildlife-rich its explore to Rents touring and mountain bikes 0800 424 534; www.cyclehire-tours.co.nz; tour- 534; www.cyclehire-tours.co.nz; 0800 424 03-365-6530; www.thevintagepeddler.co.nz; www.thevintagepeddler.co.nz; 03-365-6530; 0800 444 144, 03-982 2966; www.naturalhigh. 03-982 0800 444 144, % % % ing bikes half/full day $25/35) day half/full ing bikes two retro wheels on these funky vintage bi- retro wheels on these funky two locks and local knowledgecycles. Helmets, are all supplied. road. Bikes can be delivered to where you’re can be delivered to where you’re road. Bikes staying. the earthquakes, Before a moun- ride from the top of the gondolatain bike was also on o latest. (half/full day $30/45) will get you nicely o $30/45) day (half/full 399 Montreal St; per hour/day $10/25) St; per hour/day 399 Montreal co.nz) Vintage Peddler Bike Hire Co Co Hire Bike Peddler Vintage ( City Cycle Hire Hire City Cycle ( High Natural ( Sat 10am-1pm) Sat session with the Bone Dude, now relocatedsession with the Bone Dude, where you can to the suburb of Shirley, craft your own bone carving (allow three Ngati of who’s Fraser, hours). Owner John provides a range of tra- Rangitihi ancestry, templates, or else you can ditional Maori work on your own design. Sessions are limited to eight participants, so booking ahead also run can is highly recommended. John evening sessions for a group of at least three participants. Catch bus number 60 from the Central Bus Station. (per day/week from $40/154), and can (per day/week advise on guided and self-guided bicycle touring through CanterburySouth and the Island. Akaroa

, ART ee Co-op (p 16 ), amble back to the city through through the city to back amble ), 16 (p ee Co-op ff BOATING Bridle Lookout ff at-bottomed at-bottomed 1-4pm Mon-Fri, Mon-Fri, 1-4pm (nine hours) fl 9am-6pm, cafe cafe 9am-6pm, Godley Head h h Pioneer Wom- Sign of the Kiwi Punting on the Avon Punting Cavendish Blu Cavendish (one hour return). ers beautiful views on a clear ff

(two hours return) (two begins at Tay- Dating from 1882, the photogenic Crater Rim Walkway (1½ hours), which starts at Heathcote Follow the two-day itinerary, then head to to then head itinerary, the two-day Follow After breakfast at the Addington Co Addington at the breakfast After On day two, explore Hagley Park on a vintage bike (p 7 ) courtesy of Vintage Peddler Peddler Vintage of ) courtesy 7 (p bike on a vintage Park Hagley explore two, day On 0-385 4509; www.thebonedude.co.nz; 153 4509; www.thebonedude.co.nz; 0-385 You can walk to Lyttelton on the can walk to Lyttelton You The Re:START (p 19 ) precinct before chilling at the International Antarctic Centre (p 3 ), or ), 3 (p Centre Antarctic at the International chilling before ) precinct 19 (p Re:START Reserve. Wildlife Willowbank at Tane, Ko feast, Maori a traditional enjoying and the peninsula’s beautiful outer bays. On day four it’s time for time for it’s four day On bays. outer beautiful and the peninsula’s Four Days Days Four Two Days Two picking up some perhaps ), 2 (p Gardens Botanic the lovely through or walk Hire, In the Bike picnic. riverside a ) for 17 (p Deli ) or Simo’s 17 (p & Bakery Cafe Vic’s from goodies at restaurants hit the excellent jump on a bus to evening, CHRISTCHURCH IN... Avon, on the punting ) for 7 (p Boatsheds Antigua at the Stop Park. Hagley South leafy ) in the 17 (p Cheesemongers lunch at Canterbury informal own your and put together heading ) before 3 (p Museum Canterbury excellent the explore lunch, After Centre. Arts Inn Old Brewery at Pomeroy’s pub food and great beers craft NZ over the locals meet to ). (p 17 % 7am-5pm) Marshland Rd; per person $60; per person Rd; Marshland Bone Dude Dude Bone ( Antigua Boatsheds Antigua Boatsheds punting Tce; 2 Cambridge (www.punting.co.nz; $25/12/65; adult/child/family Pass Rd. The various ‘Sign of the…’ places Rd. Theof the…’ various ‘Sign Pass roadhousesin this area were originally as rest stops.built during the Depression This to the walk leads up (30 minutes return) or the Memorial en’s Walkway crossing and recrossing Sum- lors Mistake, mit Rd, and o day. goes some 20km Harbour around Lyttelton to the Ahuriri Scenic Re- Pass from Evans the gondola terminal on Mt Cav- serve. From endish, walk to where someone else does all the work during a half-hour return trip in a also an excellent cafe, which is boat. There’s anda great spot for brunch or lunch. Kayaks rowboats can be rented for independent River exploration. Avon green-and-white Antigua Boatsheds are the starting point for through Victoria Park and then along Sum- through Victoria Park Reserve,mit Rd to Scotts with several lookout points along the way. Path bus 28). The (take Valley 8 Central Christchurch A B C ‚ D Papanui Rd To Merivale #û Manor (600m); 33 Merivale (1km) Bealey Ave 1 d Du #› ill R Naked M b n P V Bus LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND o l t a rl in ic

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æ Sights 22 Beat St ...... G3 1 Arts Centre...... C4 23 Black Betty ...... F6 2 Botanic Gardens...... B4 24 Canterbury Cheesemongers...... D4 Botanic Gardens Visitors Centre .. (see 2) 25 Coffee House...... D4

LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND 3 Canterbury Museum ...... C4 26 Dose ...... D6 4 Cathedral Square ...... E4 27 Himalayas ...... E2 5 Christchurch Art Gallery ...... D4 28 Lotus Heart...... H6 29 New World Supermarket...... E7 Ø Activities, Courses & Tours 30 Topkapi ...... F6 6 Antigua Boatsheds ...... C5 31 Vic's Cafe & Bakery...... D1 7 Christchurch Personal Guiding Service...... C4 û Drinking 8 Vintage Peddler Bike Hire Co ...... D2 32 Cargo...... A7 33 Carlton Country Club...... C1 ÿ Sleeping 34 Monday Room ...... G7 9 Around the World Backpackers ...... G4 Pomeroy's Old Brewery Inn...... (see 20) 10 Canterbury House ...... G1 35 Revival...... D2 11 CentrePoint on Colombo ...... E2 12 Chester Street Backpackers ...... H3 ý Entertainment CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY 13 Classic Villa ...... C4 36 Christchurch Events Village ...... C3 14 Colombo in the City...... E2 37 Darkroom...... H6 15 Dorset House ...... C1 38 Dux Live...... A7 16 Focus Motel...... E2 17 Foley Towers...... G3 þ Shopping 18 George...... C2 39 Ballantynes ...... E5 19 Orari B&B ...... D4 40 Re:START Mall ...... E5 20 Pomeroy's on Kilmore...... H3 21 Vagabond Backpackers...... G4 ï Transport 41 Air New Zealand ...... E7 ú Eating 42 Omega Rental Cars...... E5 50 Bistro...... (see 18)

Garden City Heliflights SCENIC FLIGHT yards on the half-day trip, or make a day of ( %03-358 4360; www.helicopters.net.nz; per per- it and sample four diff erent wineries with son $145) Flights above the city and Lyttelton lunch ($125). let you observe the impact of the earthquake and rebuilding eff orts. Christchurch Bike Tours GUIDED TOUR ( %0800 733 257; www.chchbiketours.co.nz; tours T Tours from $40; hdeparts 2pm daily) Informative, two-hour tours loop around the city along Ask at the i-SITE about city tours and ex- quiet cycle ways and leafy park tracks. Also cursions to Lyttelton, Akaroa, Arthur’s Pass, available is a gourmet food tour and a Sat- Hanmer Springs, and the Waipara Valley. urday morning foodie spin, taking in the Canterbury Leisure Tours GUIDED TOUR Christchurch Farmers Market. Prior book- ( %0800 484 485, 03-384 0999; www.leisuretours. ing is essential and tours leave from the An- co.nz; tours from $60) Touring options in and tigua Boatsheds (p7 ). around Christchurch, with everything from three-hour city tours to full-day outings to Christchurch Personal Akaroa, Mt Cook, Arthur’s Pass and Kaik- Guiding Service WALKING TOUR % h oura. ( 03-379 9629; tours $15; tours 11am & 1pm Oct-Apr, 1pm May-Sep) Nonprofi t organisation Canterbury Wine Tours WINE TASTING off ering informative two-hour city walks. ( %0800 081 155; www.waiparavalley.co.nz; tours Buy tickets and join tours at the i-SITE de- from $90) Experience three Waipara vine- parture point. 11 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND CHRISTCHURCHFESTIVALS CHRISTCHURCH & EVENTS & CANTERBURY

ARTS MUSIC CULTURAL CULTURAL CULTURAL reworks fi Hagley A bloom- Say g’day g’day Say Midwinter KidsFest Mar) Includes the Includes h Feb-Mar) Nov) Dec-Mar) h h Aug-Sep) h h owers.co.nz; owers.co.nz; ffl owershow.co.nz; owershow.co.nz; fl excess energy in a rowboat or in a rowboat energy excess ff ower show. ower fl Sleeping ing spectacle around Christchurch’s heritage ing spectacle around Christchurch’s gardens. to summer at a huge array of outdoor array to summer at a huge events. Sweet as. celebrating music, theatrearts extravaganza and dance. Park comes alive in early March with NZ’s with NZ’s comes alive in early March Park biggest and the centrepiece A&P Show, where the where and the centrepiece A&P Show, country comes to town. NZ Cup horse race, fashion shows, Christchurch Arts Festival Arts Festival Christchurch (www.artsfestival.co.nz; Week Cup and Show NZ (www.nzcupandshow.co.nz; 4 CBD At the time of writing, Christchurch’s was closed following earthquake damage, and accommodation was focused in and inner suburbs. Several around the city’s international hotels within the CBD were demolished after the earthquake, but the and Ibis (www. (www.novotel.com) Novotel ibishotel.com) hotels are potentially to reopen once the CBD cordon is lifted; at the time of writing the Rendezvous (www.ren dezvoushotels.com) hotel was planning to Garden City SummerTimes City SummerTimes Garden (www.summertimes.co.nz; Flowers of Festival (www.festivalo Show Flower Ellerslie (www.ellerslie ary. Check– and the website for locations ary. don’t forget to put money in the hat. ARTS Na- Tran- TRAMPING Tranzal- GUIDED TOUR GUIDED TOUR GUIDED TOUR GUIDED ) are also Lord of the the of Lord 3 January) h City tours and City . It’s held every July and is chock-full of shows, workshops and par- workshops shows, of is chock-full July and held every It’s . Excursions to Akaroa, Hanmer eld detours to Akaroa, Hanmer Day trips incorporating the Day fi train and tramping around Arthur’s train and tramping around Arthur’s trilogy. Combo deals with the In- trilogy. Festivals & Events For picnics and open-air frolicking, visit the Botanic Gardens (p 2 ); there’s a play- ); there’s 2 (p Gardens the Botanic visit frolicking, and open-air picnics For Brighton. at Sumner or New hit the beaches good, If the weather’s train, jetboating and a spin in a 4WD Explore Christchurch on an open-top, 0800 141 148; www.hasslefree.co.nz; tours from from tours www.hasslefree.co.nz; 148; 0800 141 09-281 4481; www.hikingguys.co.nz; adult/child adult/child 09-281 4481; www.hikingguys.co.nz; 0800 372 879; www.discoverytravel.co.nz; www.discoverytravel.co.nz; 879; 0800 372 0508 669 660, 03-366 9660; www.christch 03-366 660, 0508 669 There’s no shortage of kid-friendly sights and activities in Christchurch. If family fun is a fun is a If family in Christchurch. and activities sights kid-friendly of no shortage There’s festival, children’s biggest NZ’s around travels your planning consider priority, (www.kidsfest.org.nz) CHRISTCHURCH CHILDREN FOR ground beside the cafe, and the kids will love riding on the Caterpillar train. Extend your your Extend train. Caterpillar riding on the and the kids will love the cafe, beside ground ) or the 5 (p Park Wildlife at the Orana encounter with a wildlife experience nature-based them burning o or get ), 6 (p Reserve Wildlife Willowbank ties. The annual World Buskers Festival (p 11 ), in late January, is also bound to be a hit. bound to is also January, in late ), 11 (p Festival Buskers World The annual ties. Antarc- International the engrossing At ). 7 (p Antigua Boatsheds the from paddleboat and (of the Hägglund Ride chamber, Storm Antarctic the will love kids ), 3 (p tic Centre at the Dis- run high also factors and attention-getting Educational the penguins. course) ). 3 (p Museum at Canterbury Centre covery % % % % $29) further-a wine region. Springs and the Waipara $395/198) from $130) from urchtours.co.nz; tours from $75) from tours urchtours.co.nz; zAlpine Pass. bright-red double-decker bus. Regional op- bus. Regional bright-red double-decker tions include a 4WD alpine safari, jetboat- and visiting River, ing on the Waimakariri the location of Edoras from the Rings ternational AntarcticCentre (p available. tional and international talent entertain in mid- to late Janu- passers-by for 10 days pine into one action-packed day. Springs, Kakoura and the Waipara Val- Waipara and the Springs, Kakoura ley region. The wine Alpine Safari option $375/276) packs the (adult/child (www.worldbuskersfestival.com; (www.worldbuskersfestival.com; z for a comprehen- Check www.bethere.co.nz sive listing. Festival Buskers World Hiking Guys Hiking Guys ( Hassle Free Tours Tours Free Hassle ( Discovery Tours Tours Discovery ( ( Christchurch Sightseeing Tours Tours Sightseeing Christchurch 12

THE SLOW ROAD TO LITTLE RIVER

The Little River Rail Trail will eventually traverse 45km, from the Christchurch suburb of Hornby to the Banks Peninsula hamlet of Little River. At the time of writing, all sections excluding a 14km stretch were open. See www.littleriverrailtrail.co.nz for the latest infor- LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND mation. Join the trail 20km from Little River at Motukarara for the best of the ride. Ask at the Christchurch i-SITE about bike rental and public transport options. Rail trail day trips including transport can be booked with Natural High (p7 ). Natural High can also rent out bikes and oﬀ er advice for multiday, self-guided cycling trips incorporating the Little River Rail Trail. Two funky accommodation options at Little River are Okuti Garden (p 26) and the Little River Campground (p 27 ), both also well-placed for exploring Akaroa and Banks Peninsula.

reopen on 1 March 2012. Check the hotel locally sourced, sustainable and organic websites and www.cera.govt.nz for the sta- breakfasts that you recommend to other tus of Christchurch’s CBD. travellers. Contemporary NZ art dots the Motels are clustered around Bealey Ave walls, and the huge native-timber kitchen and Papanui Rd, north of the centre, and table is just made for catching up around Riccarton Rd, west of town beyond Hagley with an end-of-day glass of wine. Wish is CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY Park. Many inner-city hostels closed after very popular and booking ahead is neces- the earthquake, and most open hostels are sary. It’s located slightly north of the CBD, now to the east of the CBD or in Addington. in St Albans. Booking ahead for accommodation is recommended as motels and hostels in the city Jailhouse HOSTEL $ are in high demand for tradespeople work- ( %0800 524 546, 03-982 7777; www.jail.co.nz; 338 ing on the city’s rebuild. Lincoln Rd; dm/s/d $30/79/85; piW) Housed in an old prison that was built in 1874 (and Orari B&B B&B $$$ only decommissioned in 1999), the Jailhouse ( %03-365 6569; www.orari.net.nz; 42 Gloucester is one of NZ’s most unique hostels. Twins St; d $195-255; pW) Orari is a late-19th-cen- and doubles are a bit on the small side – re- tury home that has been stylishly updated member, it was a prison – but it’s still an ex- with light-fi lled, pastel-toned rooms and in- ceptionally well-run and friendly spot. The viting guest areas, as well as a lovely front surrounding Addington area has good cafes, garden. Art connoisseurs take note: it’s right restaurants and entertainment venues. across the road from Christchurch Art Gal- lery. Wine connoisseurs can look forward to CentrePoint on Colombo MOTEL $$ complimentary wine after a busy day. ( %03-377 0859, 0800 859 000; www.centrepointon colombo.co.nz; 859 Colombo St; d $155-165, apt Pomeroy’s on Kilmore B&B $$ $180-260; piW) CentrePoint on Colombo ( %03-365 1523; www.pomeroysonkilmore.co.nz; has super-comfortable facilities and the 292 Kilmore St; d $145-245; p) What could be bonus of a friendly Kiwi-Japanese manage- better than staying in an elegantly furnished ment. The owners are a mine of information fi ve-room boutique guesthouse? How about on how Christchurch is bouncing back after knowing it’s just a short, thirsty stroll to the earthquakes, and happily provide guests Pomeroy’s Old Brewery Inn (p17 ), Christch- with up-to-date information on the best urch’s best craft beer pub? Rates include places to eat around town. breakfast, and you’re also welcome to have a private beer tasting with the friendly own- George BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$$ ers. Several of the rooms open onto a sunny ( %03-379 4560, 0800 100 220; www.thegeorge. garden. com; 50 Park Tce; d $506-886; piW) The George has 53 handsomely decorated rooms and suites on the fringe of Christchurch’s S Wish B&B $$ sweeping Hagley Park. Discreet staff attend % ( 03-356 2455; www.wishnz.com; 38 Edgeware to every whim, there are two excellent res- Rd, St Albans; s/d incl breakfast from $125/150; taurants, and ritzy features including huge piW The rooms and beds at the stylish ) TVs, luxury toiletries and glossy magazines. Wish are supercomfy, but it could be the 13 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND CHRISTCHURCHSLEEPING CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY $ $ $ $ $ $$ lled The The fi B&B ) HOSTEL HOSTEL HOSTEL HOSTEL HOSTEL HOSTEL HOSTEL HOSTEL Around ) A friend- ) piW p This relaxed ) This 145-year- piW ) pi is often used as an piW Sheltered by well-es- ) ering twin and double twin ering ff oor heating. Check-ins af- fl piW re, pool table, DVDs and beds in- fi ow facility, o ow facility, fl ) are just around the corner. Entwhistle Cottage Entwhistle 03-366 8268; www.dorsethouse.co.nz; 1 Dorset 1 Dorset www.dorsethouse.co.nz; 8268; 03-366 437 5504; www.oldcountryhousenz.com; 03-381 0800 374 298, 03-343 1661; www.fendalton 1661; 03-343 298, 0800 374 www.backpack.co.nz/foley.html; 9720; 03-366 03-377 1897; www.chesterst.co.nz; 148 Chester Chester 148 www.chesterst.co.nz; 1897; 03-377 03-365 4363; www.aroundtheworld.co.nz; 314 Bar- 314 4363; www.aroundtheworld.co.nz; 03-365 17 % % % % % % Old Countryhouse separate features two villas with handmade wooden furniture, a reading lounge and a lovely garden slightly further out with native ferns. It’s than other hostels, but still only 1km east of Latimer Sq. Bus 21 stops opposite. ter 9pm are available only by arrangement. ter 9pm are available tablished trees, Foley Towers provides well- Towers tablished trees, Foley maintained rooms encircling quiet inner courtyards and a friendly welcome in dorms warmed by under the World gets rave recommendations for its gets rave the World badoes St; dm/d/tw $30/68/68; St; dm/d/tw badoes St; dm/s/d $32/69/84; $32/69/84; St; dm/s/d d $90-110; St; dm $31-35, Gloucester house.co.nz; 28a Kotare St; d $145; St; d $145; Kotare 28a house.co.nz; bath- d with/without St; dm $24-26, Kilmore 208 $68/62; room St E; dm/tw/d $30/64/66; $30/64/66; St E; dm/tw/d Around the World Backpackers Backpackers World the Around ( Dorset House House Dorset ( Old Countryhouse ( Fendalton House House Fendalton ( Towers Foley ( Chester Street Backpackers Backpackers Street Chester ( ly, homestay-style B&B amid the pleasant B&B amid homestay-style ly, Rates include a streets of leafy Fendalton. nights breakfast, and on Wednesday cooked mornings, the foodie attrac- and Saturday Market tions of the Christchurch Farmers (p wooden villa is painted in bright colours and is painted in bright colours wooden villa has a huge library front room. in the sunny The a regular guest at friendly house cat is so try to book popular, hostel barbecues. It’s the equally charm- ahead. Across the road, ing old wooden villa has a large regal lounge with log a short stroll to Hagley stead of bunks. It’s and the bars and restaurants of Victo- Park Rd. ria St and Papanui best shopping mall. Studio units – some – units Studio mall. shopping best two-bedroom and larger, baths – with spa apartments and thoroughly all spotless are modern. rooms. over $$ $$ $$$ $$$ $$$ B&B B&B B&B MOTEL MOTEL MOTEL Ideally located Ideally ) Handily located Handily Originally built Designed by re- ) ) A gracious 19th- ) ) pW pW pW pW piW 03-341 2100; www.romaonriccarton.com; 38 www.romaonriccarton.com; 2100; 03-341 03-355 7731; www.merivalemanor.com; 122 www.merivalemanor.com; 7731; 03-355 03-343 4260; www.anselmhouse.co.nz; 34 4260; www.anselmhouse.co.nz; 03-343 03-355 9731; www.elmtreehouse.co.nz; 236 Pa- www.elmtreehouse.co.nz; 9731; 03-355 03-377 7905; www.theclassicvilla.co.nz; 17 17 www.theclassicvilla.co.nz; 7905; 03-377 % % % % % in the 1920s, the elegant Elm Tree House has House in the 1920s, the elegant Elm Tree to rooms, a dining area leading six stylish spacious, wood- rose gardens, and a sunny shopping and lined guests’ lounge. Top-end good restaurants are a short walk Merivale’s jukebox classic Wurlitzer and yes – the away, order. downstairs is still in working Riccarton Rd; d $150-205; d $150-205; Rd; Riccarton Papanui Rd; d $145-185; d $145-185; Rd; Papanui Kahu Rd; s/d $190/230; s/d Kahu Rd; panui Rd; d $365-445; Rd; panui Worcester Ave; d $269-489; d $269-489; Ave; Worcester near the Botanic Gardens and Canterburynear the Botanic the Classic of Christch- Villa is one Museum, options. most elegant accommodation urch’s Turk- with antiques and Rooms are trimmed the ex- a classy ambience, and ish rugs for breakfast is a pansive, Mediterranean-style around the diningshared social occasion children under wooden table. No big room’s 12 years old allowed. nowned NZ architect Heathcote Helmore Helmore nowned NZ architect Heathcote and constructed partially of unique Oamaru is in Fendalton pink marble, Anselm House iconic heritage residences. one of the city’s The decor is elegant and restrained, and the property beautiful riverside also features a garden, just perfect for an end-of-the-day with theglass of wine and conversation owners. well-travelled friendly, century Victorian residence is now the hub of an elegant motel. Accommodation ranges from studios – some with spa baths – to one- keeping apartments. In and two-bedroom decor is under- history, with the property’s stated, and the classy shopping and good are just a bars and restaurants of Merivale few hundred metres away. Roma on Riccarton on Riccarton Roma ( Merivale Manor Merivale ( Anslem House Anslem House ( Elm Tree House Elm Tree ( Classic Villa Villa Classic ( Check and packages good-value for online discounts. near Hagley Park and the city end of Ricca- and the city Park near Hagley Roma on rton Rd, the Mediterranean-style Riccarton is also a short stroll from cinemas, bars and restaurants, and Christchurch’s 14 ‘Kiwiana’ decor and sunny back garden (com- Canterbury House HOSTEL $ plete with a private outdoor bath). Ask about ( %03-377 8108; http://canterburyhousebp.web.fc2. the hostel’s ‘Love Shack’ if you’re visiting with com; 257 Bealey Ave; dm/s/d/tw $30/45/70/70; the closest of travelling companions. pW) More of a homestay than a hostel, Canterbury House is run by a friendly Kiwi- Haka Lodge HOSTEL $ Japanese couple, and enjoys a quiet right-of- ( %03-980 4252; www.hakalodge.com; 518 Lin-

LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND way location off busy Bealey Ave. The decor wood Ave; dm/d/tw $28/70/70, self-contained apt is slightly chintzy and old-fashioned, but the $160; pW) Sprawled across three fl oors of spacious and well-kept garden is a real asset a modern suburban house, Haka Lodge is during summer. one of Christchurch’s newest hostels. Shared dorms and rooms are spotless and colour- Meadow Park Top 10 ful, and end-of-day treats include a comfy Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $ lounge with big-screen TV and a bird-friend- ( %03-352 9176, 0800 396 323; www.christch ly garden. Location-wise, you’re around ten urchtop10.co.nz; 39 Meadow St; sites from $40, minutes’ drive from the city, but there’s also units $75-169; piWs) Wall-to-wall camp- a bus stop nearby. ervans here, while other accommodation ranges from cabins to motel units. It’s also Arena Motel MOTEL $$ well equipped for leisure activities, with an ( %0800 232 565, 03-338 4579; www.arenamotel. indoor pool and games rooms and a play- co.nz; 30 Whiteleigh Ave; W) Handily located in ground for the kids. up-and-coming Addington, the Arena Motel CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY is also the closest accommodation to the North South Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $ Christchurch Railway Station – convenient ( %0800 567 765, 03-359 5993; www.northsouth. if you’re planning a morning departure on co.nz; cnr John’s & Sawyers Arms Rds, SH1; sites the TranzAlpine through the Southern Alps. from $35, units $58-125; piWs) This place is just fi ve minutes from the airport, and a Colombo in the City MOTEL $$ good fi rst night for after you’ve picked up ( %03-366 8775, 0800 265 662; www.motelcolo your campervan. Facilities include a pool, mbo.co.nz; 863 Colombo St; d $160-185, apt $185- sauna, playground and newer motel units. 270; piW) Colombo in the City has attrac- Airport transfers are available. tive units that are luxuriously equipped with Sky TV, CD players, double-glazed windows 5 Eating and spa baths. Following the February 2011 earthquake, Focus Motel MOTEL $$ many cafes and restaurants were damaged, ( %0800 943 0800, 03-943 0800; www.focusmo or left shuttered behind the cordon around tel.com; 344 Durham St N; d $150-200; piW) the city’s CBD. The CBD was scheduled to re- Sleek and centrally located, with big-screen open around April or May 2012, and the area TVs, chic, self-contained studios and super- will again become a focus for dining out. modern decor. However, for this edition we have only included restaurants and cafes that were open Airport Gateway Motor Lodge MOTEL $$ at the time of writing; check www.christch ( %03-358 7093, 0800 242 8392; www.airportgate urchnz.com for the latest updates. Bookings way.co.nz; 45 Roydvale Ave; d $155-195; piW) are recommended for dinner. Handy for those early fl ights, this motel has Key dining precincts are along Victoria a variety of rooms with good facilities; 24- St to the immediate northwest of the CBD. hour airport pick-ups are available at no ex- South of Moorhouse Ave, Addington and tra charge. The newly opened Premier Suites Sydenham have become hubs for new post- are very comfortable and good value. earthquake eateries. To the west and north respectively of the Vagabond Backpackers HOSTEL $ CBD, Riccarton and Merivale are dotted ( %03-379 9677; vagabondbackpackers@hot with cafes and restaurants, and the beach- mail.com; 232 Worcester St; dm/s/d $26/42/60; side suburb of Sumner also features great piW; gairport shuttle to Cathedral Sq) Small, friendly place reminiscent of a big share- eating (see boxed text, p15 ). To the south- house. There’s an appealing garden, rustic east, Lyttelton (p 22) is again emerging as but comfy facilities, and frisbees and barbe- one Christchurch’s best areas for eating and cues that remind you that you’re defi nitely drinking. in NZ. 15 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND CHRISTCHURCHEATING CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY

, $$

) maga- MODERN NZ NZ MODERN Pescatore piW ee ice ice ee Cuisine ff air, with prime air, ff 5pm-late Wed-Sat) 5pm-late h This is a superior, This is a superior, nalist in fi ne dining is worthne dining seeking fi Asian fusion is the name of fusion is the name of Asian ce-park location, because Ede- ffi sh with chilli, and wasabi, salmon, salmon, and wasabi, sh with chilli, fi 03-943 2144; www.edesia.co.nz; 12 Show 12 Show www.edesia.co.nz; 2144; 03-943 11.30am-3pm Mon-Fri & 5.30pm-late Mon-Sat) & 5.30pm-late Mon-Fri 11.30am-3pm erings include haloumi and roasted garlic garlic include haloumi and roasted erings 03-326 5969, 0800 496 949; www.sumner 0800 496 949; 5969, 03-326 % ff Ignore the o Ignore version of sia’s out. The dinner menu includes innovative spins on local venison, salmon, quail, while lunch is a more informal a Canterbury steaks and gossamer-light pasta. best, The wine list is one of Christchurch’s and after work Edesia morphs into a cosy bar for local desk jockeys. zine’s NZ Restaurant of the Year awards. NZ Restaurant of the Year zine’s vours. Try the Nifty 50 lunch menu – $29 for vours. Try soup and a main dish – or sample more ro- lamb shoulder ragubust evening meals like with kumara (sweet potato) gnocchi. Travel- ling gourmands should book for more formal restaurant (dinner the George’s only; mains $42-50). citrus-cured Dishes like salmon or Canterbury Pes- lamb help make catore a regular Pl; lunch mains $21-29 & dinner mains $28-39; Pl; lunch mains $21-29 Edesia Edesia ( h % (

$$ $$ a- fl air, air, eld St; mains $25-30) ff fi Studios and one- and two-bedroom units all have have all units and one- and two-bedroom Studios (grilled (pickled BURMESE BURMESE Christch- ) RESTAURANT RESTAURANT 5pm-late Wed-Fri & 10am-late Sat-Sun) & 10am-late Wed-Fri 5pm-late v 03-326 5220; 41a Nayland St; tapas $8-12; $8-12; St; tapas Nayland 41a 5220; 03-326 avours. avours. Book- h 03-326 6720; www.cornershopbistro.co.nz; 32 Nayland St; brunch 32 Nayland www.cornershopbistro.co.nz; 6720; 03-326 fl o small-plate erent % ff (

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03-326 6675; www.lepetithotel.co.nz; 16 Marriner St; d $135; St; d $135; Marriner 16 www.lepetithotel.co.nz; 6675; 03-326 ) is a bustling a le pet thoke pet le ciandi thoke ciandi erent % ﬀ 12 03-326 7878; 6 Wake 6 7878; 03-326 (

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6-10pm Tue-Sun; Tue-Sun; 6-10pm oui ee, croissant breakfasts and Kara the friendly Scottish terrier are among the among are terrier the friendly Scottish Kara and breakfasts croissant ee, avours. Dishes include Burmese-style include Burmese-style Dishes avours. h ff fl avours from neighbouring Thai- from neighbouring avours nite nite (Spanish donuts) for dessert. for donuts) (Spanish fl fi

Cornershop Bistro Cornershop Bamboozle Almeidas Bar Tapas Sumner Bay Motel and Apartments Le Petit Hotel

03-371 0250; www.thegeorge.com; 50 Park Tce; Tce; 50 Park www.thegeorge.com; 0250; 03-371 03-377 6808; www.bodhitree.co.nz; 39 Ilam Rd; 39 Ilam Rd; 6808; www.bodhitree.co.nz; 03-377 Note that most of the venues listed under Note motel.co.nz; 26 Marriner St; d $159-185) motel.co.nz; SEASIDE AT SUMNER SEASIDE AT is a relaxing Sumner of suburb the beachy bus 3, by Christchurch of southeast 12km Just Sumner for to return and sightseeing for Christchurch central to Commute stay. to place cinema at night. and an arthouse restaurants good a balcony and courtyard, quality furniture, and Sky TV and DVD players. Bikes and surf- Bikes players. and DVD TV and Sky furniture, quality and courtyard, a balcony be rented. can boards spins on up innovative conjure chefs talented where Bamboozle, at the stylish the game traditional best Christchurch’s with one of dessert for room Leave dumplings. and cream-cheese and co with a lime sauce topped steamed-pudding or ginger brûlées, crème cream. highlights at this intimate, French-themed boutique hotel. Factor in the friendly owners, owners, in the friendly Factor hotel. boutique French-themed at this intimate, highlights and restaurants, best Christchurch’s of and some Sumner beach to proximity the close a de it’s Relaxed co Relaxed Beachy Sumner meets the back streets of Barcelona at this rustic, Spanish-themed Spanish-themed at this rustic, Barcelona of streets the back meets Sumner Beachy di than 20 More bar. tapas garlic, in sautéed prawns and and mint, in lemon wrapped hearts artichoke in prosciutto, on settling before plate’ one more ‘just for the urge and resist Try lime and coriander. churros French-style bistro that never forgets it’s in a relaxed beachside suburb. Spend longer Spend longer suburb. beachside in a relaxed it’s forgets that never bistro French-style brunch. over lingering planned to than you & lunch $12-17, dinner $23-34; dinner $23-34; & lunch $12-17, % % urch’s only Burmese restaurant is also one urch’s best eateries. Don’t come expect- of the city’s ing spicy land, but look forward to subtle food crafted from exceptionally fresh ingredients. Stand- out dishes include the tea-leaf salad) and the doing savvy local twists on classic bistro local twists doing savvy rant at the George (p dinner mains $35-37) dishes $13-24; $13-24; dishes 50 Bistro 50 Bistro ( Restaurants Tree Bodhi ( Drinking are also good spots for lunch or dinner. and seafood also feature.eggplant). Meat Dishes are starter-sized, up a group so drum and sample lots of di ings are essential. 16 Himalayas INDIAN $$ for the free wi-ﬁ , gourmet pies and wraps ( %03-377 8935; www.himalayas.co.nz; 830a Co- and the legendary big breakfasts. An onsite lombo St; mains $18-22; h11.30am-2pm Tue-Fri & laundromat completes the deal for busy 5pm-late Tue-Sun; v) Every city needs a great travellers. Indian eatery, and Himalayas ticks the box in Christchurch. A stylish dining room Black Betty CAFE $ (www.blackbetty.co.nz; 163a Madras St; mains $10-

LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND showcases lots of sub-continental favourites, including vegetarian options like the 20; W) Infused with glorious caﬀ eine-enriched creamy dal makhani (black lentils cooked aromas from Switch Espresso’s roasting with aromatic spices). The kadhai chicken operation, Black Betty’s chic industrial ware- is studded with chilli, ginger and coriander – house is a popular destination for students perfect with a cold beer. Takeaways are also from nearby CPIT. Essential culinary attrac- available. tions include all-day breakfasts – try the ciabatta toast with creamy mushrooms – and Holy Smoke STEAKHOUSE $$ excellent counter food including wraps and (www.holysmoke.co.nz; 650 Ferry Rd; brunch & bagels, as well as the best of NZ wine and lunch mains $18-25, dinner mains $26-36; h9am- craft beers. late Mon-Sat, to 4pm Sun) Here’s your chance to get acquainted with the unique smoky Under the Red Verandah CAFE $$ character of manuka (NZ tea tree). At Holy (www.utrv.co.nz; Cnr Tancred & Worcester Sts; Smoke, the native wood is used to smoke mains $15-25; v) After losing their original premises in the 2011 earthquake, Under the

CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY everything from pork ribs and chicken wings to bacon and salmon. Other menu Red Verandah re-opened in a spacious villa items include robust slabs of venison, lamb at the same location. Christchurch foodie and beef, all teamed with Kiwi craft beers types quickly returned, and now fi ll the and Central Otago wines. shady garden for leisurely combinations of coff ee, oaty pancakes and the city’s best corn fritters. Look forward also to lots of organic S Lotus Heart VEGETARIAN $$ and gluten-free baking. (www.thelotusheart.co.nz; 363 St Asaph St; mains $14-25; h8am-4pm daily & 6-10pm Thu-Sat; v) Beat St CAFE $ Relocated to the edge of the CBD, this or- (324 Barbadoes St; snacks & mains $8-16; v) ganic and vegetarian eatery does curries, Welcome to the grungy hub of Christchurch freshly squeezed organic juices and fi lled cafe-cool. Free range this and organic that pita pockets. Try the chilli, coriander and combine with terrifi c eggy breakfasts, gour- garlic-studded eggs Akoori for breakfast, or met pies – try the feta and vege one – and drop by for a healthy pizza, wrap, or shared robust Havana coff ee. Beat Street hosts a platter for lunch or dinner. Organic, vegan, bohemian open mic night featuring music and gluten-free options abound, and there’s and poetry on the third Thursday of every an interesting gift shop onsite. month from 6pm.

Topkapi TURKISH $$ Honey Pot Cafe CAFE $$ (www.topkapi.co.nz; 64 Manchester St; mains $14- (www.honeypotcafe.co.nz; 458 Colombo St; mains 22; hclosed Mon) Grab yourself a cushioned, $20-30) One of the fi rst CBD cafes to relocate low-slung bench in the tapestry-draped inte- after the earthquakes, the Honey Pot Cafe set rior and enjoy some great Turkish food, in- the scene for the emergence of Sydenham as cluding a wide range of meat or veg kebabs a dining destination. Great eggs Benedict and the all-important baklava fi nisher. The for breakfast give way to spiced lamb and takeaway counter also does brisk business feta salad for lunch, and sirloin steak and chunky, hand-cut chips for dinner. Christch- Cafes urch’s very own 3 Boys beer is on tap. o Addington Coffee Co-op CAFE $ Coffee House CAFE $$ (www.addingtonco ff ee.org.nz; 297 Lincoln Rd; (290 Montreal St; breakfast & lunch mains $11-22 & snacks and mains $6-20; Wv) One of Christch- Housed in a heritage villa urch’s biggest and most bustling cafes is dinner mains $27-32) complete with sunny patio, the Coff ee House also one of its best. Fair-trade coff ee and a has a great location near the Arts Centre compact stall selling organic cotton T-shirts and the Botanic Gardens. Highlights include jostle for attention with delicious cakes and feta-cheese-studded Mediterranean scram- slices, while a cross-section of the city comes 17 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND CHRISTCHURCHDRINKING CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY

$ $ em- Pop CRAFT BEER CRAFT SUPERMARKET SANDWICHES SANDWICHES eld’) Sq and FARMERS MARKET MARKET FARMERS fi nitely worth the fi Centrally located. closed Sun-Mon) closed h 9am-noon Sat year-round year-round 9am-noon Sat Welcome to one of New Welcome h (thin baguettes) and ciabatta and ciabatta (thin baguettes) lo parcels). Other tasty stalls tolo parcels). Other tasty fi (savoury turnovers) and Moroccan ( ficelles Pomeroy’s Old Pomeroy’s Christchurch Christchurch Drinking ee and juices are also available to com- ee and juices are also available ff The welcoming Pomeroy’s is the city’s hoppy is the city’s The welcoming Pomeroy’s rapidly expanding craft hub for fans of NZ’s beer scene. A wide range of guest taps show- often case brews from around the country, including seasonal beers and limited re- coming leases. Check the website for what’s & 4-7pm Wed Nov-Sat) Wed & 4-7pm (www.pomeroysonkilmore.co.nz; 292 Kilmore St) Kilmore 292 (www.pomeroysonkilmore.co.nz; New World Supermarket Supermarket World New St) Colombo City Centre, (South 6 af- Before the earthquakes, Christchurch’s ter-dark scene was focused around Oxford (‘the laneways and the inner-city Strip’) Tce around SOL (‘South of Lich St. Both precincts were closed at the Poplar time of writing, Riccarton, and areas like were Victoria Addington, St and Merivale becoming popular. o o Kahu 16 (www.christchurchfarmersmarket.co.nz; House; Riccarton Rd, Self-Catering Canterbury Cheesemongers St; 301 Montreal (www.cheesemongers.co.nz; $7; around sandwiches panadas briouats She Choc- and Porridge track down are Posh olat. Check website before you go to out the create your own foodie hit list. Zealand’s best farmers markets, a tasty Zealand’s labyrinth of organic fruit and vegies, South local craft cheeses and salmon, beer, Island and ethnic treats including Colombian plete a good-value lunch. No Monty Python plete Monty lunch. No a good-value please. jokes, in to buy artisan cheeses, or craft your own combining freshly- sandwich by favourite baked of dairywith a whole cheese shop goodies. Co short to Sydenham. hop south Sahara Sand Hopper (lamb with lemon yo- lemon with (lamb Hopper Sand Sahara with ghurt)Shagged or the (venison Stag chutney) and plum tamarillo this – give ever-changing An air. laidback funky, place a selection of Kiwi craft you further beers give De reasons to tarry longer. Brewery Inn Brewery Farmers Market Market Farmers

$ $ $ $ $ ee ff ee. lled ff fi CAFE CAFE CAFE CAFE BURGERS ordable merguez ff MOROCCAN MOROCCAN closed Sun) closed SANDWICHES SANDWICHES (Moroccan (Moroccan h ee, too. ee, ff ti-style art. From From art. ti-style ffi tagines Part cafe and part Part bar with tasty grilled bar with tasty erings include small ff (grilled wraps llings, sauces and top- fi Quirkily named gourmet Serious in name and serious yakitori ee from the Lyttelton Co ee from the Lyttelton ff bocadillos Simo’s Deli Deli Simo’s avour. Concealed in Sydenham’s new Co- Concealed in Sydenham’s avour. Always busy, Vic’s attracts a wide cross- attracts Vic’s busy, Always fl Wednesday to Saturday from 4pm, Dose to Saturday Wednesday morphs into a in lombo shopping mall, this compact kitchen gourmetdishes up tasty sammies, including from 9am) (available the breakfast BLAT variant and a meatballs-on-toasted-ciabatta from around 11am). Look forward(available to good co to a serious attitude Burgers & Beers Inc & Beers Burgers St; 355 Colombo (www.burgersandbeersinc.co.nz; $12.50-16) burgers Serious Sandwich Sandwich Serious St; 363 Colombo (www.theserioussandwich.com; $7-10) sandwiches (www.simos.co.nz; 3/300 Lincoln Rd; wraps $6.50- wraps Rd; 3/300 Lincoln (www.simos.co.nz; & mains $7-17) tapas $9.50, Quick Quick Eats o Vic’s Cafe & Bakery & Bakery Cafe Vic’s & mains $8- St; snacks Victoria 132 (www.vics.co.nz; 20) (77 Tuam St; snacks & mains $8-18; $8-18; & mains St; snacks Tuam (77 Dose bled eggsbled herb-marinated and for breakfast tap and beer on Emerson’s dinner. lamb for see you lin- will probably wine list a concise over somethinggering than co stronger burgers – try the Moroccan-spiced Woolly burgers – try Woolly the Moroccan-spiced with a huge selection Eastern and of Middle African-inspired pings). Other tasty o pings). Other tasty plates of grilled calamari or spicy deli, Simo’s in Addington is popular for its in Addington deli, Simo’s takeaway skewers and ice-cold Japanese beer. and ice-cold Japanese skewers Company and superior counter food com- and superior Company what toasted bagels and bine here with best eggs Ben- just be Christchurch’s may edict. is almost unbearably cosy, Downstairs so head upstairs for bigger tables and a ambience with gra quirky Excellent co DIY riverside picnic. Get there early (before world-famous-in-Christch- 10am) for Vic’s porridge ($10.50). urch nutty section of Christchurch we even folk – saw there on our Sunday-morn- mayor the city’s in for a robust breakfast on the ing visit. Pop and goodies baked big shared tables, or grab still-warm artisan bread for an a sausages, or more robust casseroles) and beef kofta with pomegranat sauce. 18 up. There’s occasional live music, and the in its nooks and crannies. Don’t miss the attached Victoria’s Kitchen does great pub rooftop deck on a sunny afternoon. food (mains $20-30). Revival BAR Volstead Trading Company BAR (www.revivalbar.co.nz; 94 Victoria St) More ship- (www.volstead.co.nz; 55 Riccarton Rd) Volstead ping-container bar tomfoolery, this time is a great example of what Christchurch with the added attraction of its own onsite LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND has always done better than the rest of NZ: Lebanese food caravan, Revival is the hip- shabbily chic bars with a real sense of in- pest of Christchurch’s container bars, with dividuality. Comfy old sofas from your last regular DJs and a funky lounge area dot- student fl at combine with quirky artwork, ted with a quirky collection of automotive interesting beers from the Moa Brewery, and rear ends and vintage steamer trunks. Yet funky cocktails. If you’re peckish, dig into another classic example of post-earthquake unpretentious popcorn, nachos and toasted Christchurch drinking chic. sandwiches. Wood’s Mill BAR & CAFE PRECINCT The Brewery CRAFT BEER (Woods Mill) Before the earthquakes, (www.casselsbrewery.co.nz; 3 Garlands Rd) Out in Christchurch had a thriving eating and Woolston, it’s a fair schlep from the city, but drinking scene in the bricklined thorough- the Brewery is an essential destination for fares around SOL Sq and Lichfi eld Lane. beer-loving travellers. Cassels & Sons craft At the time of writing these areas were still all their beer using a wood-fi red brew kettle, cordoned off , and the Wood’s Mill precinct CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY resulting in big, bold beers like their 1PA and in Addington was being repurposed as a Best Bitter. Tasting trays are available for the similar development. The area is scheduled curious and the indecisive, and the food – in- to open in mid-2012. cluding wood-fi red pizzas – is top-notch, too. Monday Room WINE BAR 3 Entertainment (367 Moorhouse Ave; h7am-late) Part cafe, part Like the city’s pub and bar scene, many of restaurant and part wine bar, the versatile Christchurch’s traditional entertainment Monday Room is the kind of place to hang venues were damaged by the earthquakes, out in any time of any day of the week. Oc- and newer, more suburban areas have cupying a restored heritage building, the emerged. For live music and club listings, funky interior is a background for interest- see www.christchurchmusic.org.nz or www. ing brunch and lunch options; later in the mukuna.co.nz. Look out for the Groove day, tapas, craft beers and cocktails take Guide magazine in cafes. centre stage. Both Pomery’s Old Brewery Inn (p17 ) and The Brewery (p18 ) are also good live-music Cargo BAR (379 Lincoln Rd ) Welcome to the city of ship- venues. Check their websites for listings. ping containers, a popular option for busi- Christchurch Events Village CONCERT VENUE ness owners re-establishing after the earth- (www.eventsvillage.co.nz; Hagley Park) Many of quake. In the case of Addington’s Cargo, Christhchurch’s entertainment venues were there’s even an astroturf putting green in destroyed by the earthquake, so this Hagley the corner. The utilitarian decor won’t score Park collection of temporary venues is now points for a romantic night out, but on Fri- used for everything from concerts to live day and Saturday nights it’s crammed with theatre. locals celebrating the end of the working week. Dux Live LIVE MUSIC (363 Lincoln Rd) Dux de Lux was an excellent Carlton Country Club PUB restaurant, microbrewery and live-music (1 Papanui Rd) Only in innovative, post- venue in Christchurch’s Arts Centre, but it earthquake Christchurch would a bunch of was forced to close after the February 2011 shipping containers and a truck-and-trailer earthquake. The beer is still being brewed come together as one of the city’s most pop- – try it at Dux de Lux in Queenstown – and ular pubs. Perched on a busy urban corner, in late 2011 this Addington venue opened for the Carlton is a thoroughly unpretentious live music. Search Facebook for Dux de Lux spot, with lots of thirsty locals tucked away for what’s on. 19 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND CHRISTCHURCHSHOPPING CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY MALL MALL CINEMA MARKET rst retail fi newspaper To the west the To DEPARTMENT STORE DEPARTMENT A venerable Mainly arthouse Mainly Press icks in a seaside sub- fl eld Riccarton Mall. Ateld Riccarton Mall. fi Opened in late October This morning mar- Sunday to reopen the CBDrst stores fi ) and the Christchurch Art Gal- icks.co.nz 3 fl eld.co.nz; Riccarton Rd) Riccarton eld.co.nz; fi ) are also worth browsing. 5 Shopping 03-326-6104; www.hollywoodcinema.co.nz; 28 www.hollywoodcinema.co.nz; 03-326-6104; 11am-3pm Sun) 11am-3pm % and foreign language and foreign urb of Sumner. Catch bus 3 from platform A Catch bus 3 from urb of Sumner. Bus Station.at the Central activity the Christchurch in CBD after the earthquake. With a couple 2011 February iconicof decent cafes, and including two Christchurch Books and stores – Scorpio a pleasant place to Grocers – it’s Johnson’s for a good selection of de- stroll. Visit Hapu sign and crafts from local artists. 2011, this colourful of shops based2011, labyrinth was the in shipping containers ket grounds of Riccarton in the leafy House combines local arts crafts and vendors with gourmet food stalls and live music and entertainment. Marriner St; adult/child $16/10) Marriner St; adult/child of central Christchurch, this mega mall has a huge selection of fashion, homeware and a cinema entertainment outlets. There’s multiplex surrounding area around and the Riccarton shops. Catch a Rd also has many Cen- bus from platform C at Christchurch’s tral Bus Station Ballantynes Ballantynes & Cashel Sts) Colombo (cnr Artisan Sunday Market Kahu Rd; 16 (www.sundayartisanmarket.co.nz; h Mall Riccarton Westfield (www.west Re:START Mall Re:START (www.restart.org.nz) Hollywood 3 3 Hollywood ( 7 Since the earthquakes, shopping in Christh- focusedchurch has largely been on the city’s suburban malls. The for most convenient visitors is the West the time of writing,but the CBD was closed, green shoots of retail were evi- commerce dent nearby in the new RE:Startshopping precinct. The gift shops at the Canterbury (p Museum lery (p following the earthquakes. Christchurch department store selling men’s Christchurch department store selling men’s fashions, cosmetics, travel and women’s NZ gifts.goods and speciality Ballantynes was one of the tion. Checktion. in the listings or at www.

CLUB CLUB CINEMA CINEMA STADIUM THEATRE LIVE MUSIC LIVE Energetic Darkroom is a hip is a Darkroom Christchurch’s original Christchurch’s 8pm-2am Thu-Sat) h Along with much of Christch- Another suburban nightclub Bernard St) Bernard ff 5pm-late Thu-Sun) 5pm-late h 0508 446 987; www.hoyts.co.nz; Riccarton Rd) Riccarton www.hoyts.co.nz; 0508 446 987; 0800 333 100, 03-963 0870; www.courttheatre. 0870; 03-963 0800 333 100, % % org.nz; o org.nz; worth the trek to Hornby for occasional hip for occasional worth the trek to Hornby hop, dubstep and gloriously noisy rock and roll from Kiwi acts. Check www.christchurch search Face- on or music.org.nz for what’s book for The Venue. DJ-driven dance club for the younger trav- DJ-driven dance club for good people of sub- eller – some nights the hit them. don’t know what’s urban Papanui for Club 22 to see what’s Search Facebook playing. planned and who’s Hoyts Riccarton Riccarton Hoyts Addington Rugby League Park Park League Rugby Addington (www.crfu.co.nz) urch’s sporting infrastructure, the earth- urch’s forced the closure of AMI Stadium,quakes the traditional home of rugby and cricket in all their season playing After a 2011 the city. from home – and still coming games away in as runners-up – the Canterbury Crusaders Super 15 rugby team moved to a new ground season. Super-15 for the 2012 in Addington to July; from late February games are played Canterbury in plays to September, from July domestic championship. NZ’s ( The Venue The Venue St) (6 Tower (22 Harewood Rd; Rd; (22 Harewood Club 22 Court Theatre Theatre Court ( Darkroom Darkroom Asaphs 336 St (www.facebook.com/darkroom.nz; St; Court Theatre was an iconic part of the city’s Arts Centre, but they to relocate were forced after the earthquakes. Their new premises are now morein up-and-coming Addington a great venue it’s modern and spacious, and and works plays to see popular international Check the website forby NZ playwrights. playing. what’s Hollywood blockbusters and the occasional Hollywood most arthouse gem feature at Christchurch’s central multiplex. Catch a bus to Riccarton from platform C at the Central Bus Sta- Mall combination of live-music venue and bar, and bar, venue of live-music combination cocktails andbeers, great of Kiwi with lots and the delights of mini-pizzas the moreish lots of live gigs, There’s Week’. ‘Pie of the a cool introduction to the often free – it’s music scene. of Christchurch’s renaissance page for gig info. Check their Facebook 20 8 Information 8pm) Transport and accommodation bookings, and a handy post office (open 8am to 4.30pm) Emergency Christchurch i-SITE (%03-379 9629; www. Ambulance, fi re service & police ([tel] 111) christchurchnz.com; Rolleston Ave, beside the Police station (%03-348 6640; www.police. Canterbury Museum; h8.30am-5pm, later govt.nz; Church Corner, Riccarton Rd, Ric- in summer) Transport, activities and accom- carton) The police kiosk in Cathedral Sq was modation. Note that this location may change LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND inaccessible at the time of writing, so the sta- during the life of this book. Check online for the tion in Riccarton is currently the most central current location when you visit. police station. Department of Conservation (%03-371 3700; Internet Resources www.doc.govt.nz; 38 Orchard Rd; h8.30am- Christchurch & Canterbury (www.christch 5pm Mon-Fri) Has information on South Island urchnz.com) Official tourism website for the national parks and walkways. At the time of city and region. Also see www.popupcity.co.nz writing DOC had relocated to the International for their ongoing blog of new eating and drink- Antarctic Centre near the airport, but check ing opportunities around town. online for the current location. Christchurch.org.nz (www.christchurch.org. nz) The Christchurch City Council’s website. 8 Getting There & Away CERA (www.cera.govt.nz) Check the website of Air the Canterbury Earthquake Recovery Authority Christchurch Airport (CHC; %03-358 5029; for up-to-date maps of the cordon around the www.christchurchairport.co.nz) is the South city’s Central Business District. Also available Island’s main international gateway. The newly- CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY is a download of the draft plan to rebuild the modernised and expanded airport has excellent city. facilities, including baggage storage and visitor Neat Places (www.neatplaces.co.nz) A local information desks in both the domestic and blogger’s authoritative view of the best of international terminals. Prices listed below are Christchurch’s shopping, eating and drinking. for one-way fl ights. Media INTERNATIONAL Cityscape (www.cityscape-christchurch.co.nz) Air Asia X (www.airasia.com) Low-cost flights Entertainment and events magazine available to/from Kuala Lumpur (from $373). in inner-city cafes and retailers. Check their Air New Zealand (%0800 737 000; www. website for updates on new openings around airnewzealand.co.nz) Direct flights to/from town. Melbourne (from $139), Sydney ($159), and Press (www.stuff.co.nz) Christchurch’s news- Brisbane ($159) paper, published Monday to Saturday. Check Jetstar (%800 800 995; www.jetstar.com) out Friday’s edition for the best entertainment Direct flights to/from Melbourne (from $139), listings. Sydney (from $139), Brisbane (from ($169) and the Gold Coast (from $139). Corporate cousin Medical Services Qantas also flies the same routes at higher 24-Hour Surgery (Bealey Ave Medical Centre; fares. %03-365 7777; www.pegasus.org.nz; cnr Bea- Singapore Airlines (www.singaporeair.com) ley Ave & Colombo St; h24hr) Located north of Direct flights to/from around $1100. town, with no appointment necessary. Virgin Australia (www.virginaustralia.com) After-Hours Pharmacy (%03-366 4439; 931 Direct flights to/from Sydney (from $149), Mel- Colombo St; h6-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm Sat bourne (from $149) and Brisbane (from $149). & Sun, plus public holidays) Located beside the 24-Hour Surgery. DOMESTIC Christchurch Hospital (%03-364 0640, Air New Zealand (%0800 737 000; www. emergency dept 03-364 0270; www.cdhb.govt. airnewzealand.co.nz) Direct flights to/from nz; 2 Riccarton Ave) Centrally located. Auckland (from $79), Blenheim (from $99), Dunedin (from $79), Hamilton (from $109), Post Hokitika (from $109), Invercargill (from $109), Post Office (103 Riccarton Rd) At the time of Napier (from $109), Nelson (from $79), New writing, Christchurch’s main post office was Plymouth (from $109), Palmerston North (from closed. The most central location is in Ric- $119), Queenstown (from $59), Rotorua (from carton. $119), Tauranga (from $109), Wanaka (from Tourist Information $99) and Wellington (from $59). Airport Information Desks (%03-353 7774; Jetstar (%0800 800 995; www.jetstar.com) www.christchurchairport.co.nz; h7.30am- Direct fl ights to/from Auckland ($79), Queens- town ($59), and Wellington ($59). 21 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND CHRISTCHURCH8 CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY

09- 03- % % ( 7am-9pm h Central Bus ered for sale ff 03-338 5525; City Flyer (Metro; % ( 0800 354 504; www. 504; 354 0800 9.30am-5pm), or the 0800 112 121, 03-377 03-377 121, 112 0800 9am-noon Sun) held at at held Sun) 9am-noon % h ( % h 0800 202 029, 03-360 03-360 029, 202 0800 Turners Auctions ( eld between St) and Tuam fi % Backpackers Car Market Car Backpackers bus network ( 03-357 3243, 0800 736 736 0800 3243, 03-357 ces in Christchurch, asdo nu- % ffi ( Many vehicles are o (46-50 Lich 0800 733 287; www.redbus.co.nz; Canterbury Car Fair Car Canterbury Major and car- campervan-rental compa- % eld Sts. Get timetables from the i-SITE or fi ( 03-348 1106; www.nzbike.com; 22 Lowther 03-377 3177; www.backpackerscarmarket. 3177; 03-377 Online see www.trademe.co.nz and www. A taxi between the city centre and airport The airportis serviced by the cient. Most buses run from the ffi % % Lich the station’s information kiosk. Tickets (adult/ child $3.20) include one free transfer within two hours. Metrocards allow unlimited two-hour/ full-day travel for $2.30/4.60, but the cards must be loaded up with a minimum of $10. 366 8855; www.metroinfo.org.nz; Mon-Sat is & Sun inexpensive 9am-7pm) and e Station co.nz; 33 Battersea St; St) Also does guided motorbike tours. motorbike guided does Also St) 4558; www.omegarentalcars.com; 20 Lichfield CentrallySt) located. Pegasus Rental Cars 525 1920; www.turners.co.nz; 1 Detroit Pl) buys and sells used cars by auction; vehicles priced under $7000 are auctioned at 6pm on Tuesday Thursday. and autotrader.co.nz. Addington Raceway. Public Public Transport The Christchurch PURCHASE Car & Motorcycle HIRE adult/child which $7.50/4.50), runs to/from the Central Bus Station between 7.15am and 10.15pm Monday to Friday and 7.15am to 9.15pm Saturday and Sunday. Pick up the red City Flyer timetable at the i-SITE. costs around $45 to $55. nies all have o merous smaller local companies. Operators with national networks often want cars to be returned from Christchurch to Auckland because most renters travel in the opposite direction, so spe- cial rates may apply on this northbound route. Ace Rental Cars weekly 3270; www.acerentalcars.co.nz; 20 Abros Pl) Located near the airport. First Choice 822; www.firstchoice.co.nz; 577 Wairekei Rd) Rd) 822; www.firstchoice.co.nz; 577 Wairekei Located near the airport. Cars Rental Omega on noticeboards at hostels, cafes and internet places. Check out ( rentalcars.co.nz; 578Wairakei Rd) Located airport. the near New Zealand Motorcycle Rentals & Tours ( bus Wrights Rd entrance; 03-341 2588, % 0800 872 467; ( % ( Steve’s AirportSteve’s Shut- runs daily each way be- 0800 748 885; www.super % has a daily route between ( ering a door-to-door service from ce 6.30am-3.30pm ce Mon-Fri, ff 03-365 1113; www.intercity.co.nz; www.intercity.co.nz; 1113; 03-365 ffi (www.nakedbus.com; 70 Bealey Bealey 70 (www.nakedbus.com; % Kiwi Rail Scenic Rail Kiwi ( 0800 101 021; one/two/three persons Coastal Pacific TranzAlpine ticket o ticket Getting Around Getting % h ( Super Shuttle Contact Contact The The The www.tranzscenic.co.nz). www.tranzscenic.co.nz). 3am. $15/20/20) o The airport is 12km from the city centre. 8 the AirportTo/From Christchurch railway station railway Christchurch Train Bus Shuttlesrun to Akaroa, Arthur’s Pass, Dunedin, Greymouth, Hanmer Springs, Picton, Queen- stown, Twizel, Wanaka, Westportand points in-between; see the i-SITE. Departure points vary, so check when you book. InterCity shuttle.co.nz) operates hours 24 and charges $24 for one person between the city and the airport, plus $5 for each additional person. A cheaper alternative is tle 0800 872 467; www.tranzscenic.co.nz; Troup Dr; 118 Bealey Buses Ave) depart from 118Bealey Ave, but that may change during the life of this book – check the website. (five North bound Blenheim buses hours), 2¾ ( Kaikoura to go hours) and Picton (5½ hours), with connections to Nelson (eight hours). One daily bus also goes southwest in- to Queenstown direct hours) (eight hours). (seven Wanaka to services are There volving a change in Tarras. Heading south, two busesrun daily along the coast via the towns along SH1 to Dunedin ( six hours), with connections via Gore to Invercargill (9¾ hours) and Te i-SITE. the at or online Book hours). (10½ Anau Naked Bus HeadsAve) north to Picton and Nelson, south to Dunedin and southwest to Queenstown. buses but Ave, Bealey depart 70 buses Most depart from Nelson and Picton Kaikoura, to ). Checkoutside the Canterbury3 Museum (p the website or when you book. Christchurch and Greymouth via Arthur’s Pass. The standard adult one-way fare is $129, but fares can be discounted to $89. to 3pm Sat is & Sun) serviced by a free shuttle ring accommodation; various from up picks that the i-SITE to request pick-up. An alternative is ) for $5. AirportSteve’s 21 Shuttle (p tween Christchurch and Picton via Kaikoura and Blenheim, departing from Christchurch at 7am and arriving at Picton at 12.13pm. The standard adult one-way fare to Picton is $99, but fares can be discounted to $59. 22 Taxi which has breathtaking city, hill and har- Blue Star (%0800 379 979; www.bluestar bour views, as well as vistas of the Southern taxis) Alps. First Direct (%0800 505 555; www.firstdirect. nz.nz) Gold Band (%0800 379 5795; www.goldband 5 Eating & Drinking Freeman’s Dining Room RESTAURANT $$ LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND taxis.co.nz) (www.freemansdiningroom.co.nz; 47 London St; pizza $20, mains $25-35; h3pm-late Mon-Thu, AROUND from 11.30am Fri, from 9am Sat & Sun) Freeman’s does fresh pasta, top-notch pizzas and regu- CHRISTCHURCH lar wine and beer specials featuring brews from Christchurch’s Cassels & Son Brewery. Grab a spot on the deck for great town and Lyttelton harbour views, and take in Sunday after- POP 3100 noon jazz concerts from 3pm. Defi nitely the Southeast of Christchurch are the prominent kind of neighbourhood local you’d like in Port Hills, which slope down to the city’s port your town. at Lyttelton Harbour. Christchurch’s fi rst Eu- ropean settlers landed here in 1850 to em- Lyttelton Coffee Company CAFE $ bark on their historic trek over the hills. (www.lytteltonco ff ee.co.nz; 29 London St; mains This iconic Lyttelton cafe was de- CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY Lyttelton was badly damaged during the $10-20) 2010 and 2011 earthquakes, and many of the stroyed in the February 2011 earthquake, town’s heritage buildings along London St but at the time of writing was planning were subsequently demolished. Also fatally an April 2012 reopening. Check the web- damaged was the neogothic Timeball Sta- site: hopefully you can drop by to sample tion (www.timeball.co.nz), built in 1876, and some of Canterbury’s best coff ee and tasty where for 58 years a huge time-ball was and robust brunches. Live music on Satur- hoisted on a mast and then dropped at exact- day afternoons was also a pre-earthquake ly 1pm Greenwich Mean Time. This allowed staple. ships in Lyttelton Harbour to set their clocks Monster Yakitori JAPANESE $$ and thereby accurately calculate longitude. ( %03-328 9166; www.monsterbar.co.nz; 29 Lon- Following the earthquakes, Lyttelton has don St; per 2 skewers $8-12; h5pm-late Wed-Sun) re-emerged as one of Christchurch’s most Another Lyttelton classic that was working interesting and resilient communities. The hard towards an April 2012 reopening at town’s artsy, independent and bohemian the time of writing. Pre-earthquake, clas- vibe is stronger than ever, and it’s again sic cocktails and Kiwi craft beers combined becoming a hub for good bars, cafes and with skewered and grilled yakitori goodies restaurants. It’s well worth catching the bus in a funky, anime-themed interior. Try the from Christchurch and getting immersed in ebi bacon – prawns wrapped in bacon with the local scene. plum wasabi. Check the website for Mon- From Lyttelton, ferries and boat cruises ster’s current status. provide access to sheltered Quail Island, as well as across the water to sleepy Diamond Fisherman’s Wharf SEAFOOD $$ Harbour. See www.blackcat.co.nz for details. (www.lytteltonwharf.co.nz; 39 Norwich Quay; snacks If you’ve got your own transport, the har- $7-12, mains $18-20; h11am-8pm) Part alfresco bour road wends a scenic 15-minute route to bar and part gourmet fi sh-and-chippie, Fish- pretty Governors Bay, with a couple of good erman’s Wharf is a top spot for a cold beer spots for lunch. and tasty seafood bar snacks and mains. Try The Lyttelton visitor information cen- the fi sh of the day – prepared any of three tre (%03-328 9093; www.lytteltonharbour.info; Lon- ways – or smaller plates like salmon with don St; h9am-5pm Sep-May, to 4pm Jun-Aug) has lemongrass, chilli and lime, and look for- accommodation and transport information. ward to views of the harbour and the rugged working port. 1 Sights Lyttelton is linked to Christchurch via a road Porthole BAR tunnel, but there’s a more scenic (and 10km (cnr Canterbury & London Sts) On the former longer) route along the narrow Summit Rd, site of the much-loved Volcano Cafe and 23 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND AROUND8 CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY nitely fi ed Ona- ed fi rst French French rst fi erent. ff ag at Akaroa, fl cials sent their ffi (Maori village) by the Ngati Toa chief Toa village) by the Ngati (Maori pa If you’re not in a hurry, it’s de it’s hurry, not in a If you’re Langlois 1838, whaling captain Jean In Akaroa means ‘Long Harbour’ in Maori The French did settle at Akaroa, but in did settle The French worth in the spending a few leisurely days excellent budget accommodations that dot Most of Banks Peninsula. the outer bays pick-up inaccommodation will arrange Akaroa after you arrive from Christchurch. own warship to raise the claiming British sovereignty under the Trea- claiming British sovereignty arrived two the settlers Had of Waitangi. ty could the entire South Island years earlier, fu- and NZ’s colony, become a French have been quite di ture might have and was the site of the country’s and was the site of the country’s of the original descendants settlement; still reside here. Located settlers French a charm- 83km from Christchurch, it’s to recreate the feeling town that strives to the provincial village, down of a French Balguerie Lavaud, names of its streets (Rues (Langlois-Etevene- and houses and Jolie) also a few choice eateries. aux). There’s HISTORY in 1770. Cook sighted the peninsula James Thinking it was an island he named it after Banks. The Ngai the naturalist Sir Joseph tribe, who occupied the peninsula at Tahu at the forti the time, were attacked we in 1831 and their population Rauparaha Te was dramatically reduced. negotiated the purchase of Banks Peninsula to and returned to France from local Maori gov- With French form a trading company. ernment backing, headed for the 63 settlers they before peninsula in 1840, but only days British o arrived, panicked Akaroa & Banks Peninsula were formedand its hills Peninsula Banks about 8eruptions volcanic giant by two such as ago. Small harbours million years ra- Bays Akaloa Le Little Bons, Pigeon and centre, giv- the peninsula’s diate out from shape. Theing it a cogwheel historic town absurdly a highlight, as is the of Akaroa is the along Summit Rd around beautiful drive crater. edge of the original 1849 their land claim was sold to the New and in 1850 a large group Zealand Company, for- The arrived. of British settlers heavily ested land was cleared and soon farming be- main industry. came the peninsula’s $$ $$ BAR sh fi PUB CAFE CAFE 5pm-late Lyttel- h nitely planned. nitely fi Wunderbar is a is Wunderbar 10am-1pm Sat) 10am-1pm The Governor’s Bay The Governor’s h She Chocolat serves excel- Getting There & Away 03-329 9433; www.governorsbayhotel.co.nz; 9433; www.governorsbayhotel.co.nz; 03-329 03-329 9825; www.shechocolat.com; 79 Main 9825; www.shechocolat.com; 03-329 % % ton’s foodie credentials are enhanced by the ton’s farmers market held in the local primary school on Saturdays. Main Rd; mains $14-33) Main Rd; Rd; mains $15-34) Rd; Check the website or www.christchurch music.org.nz. top spot to see NZ’s more interesting acts, more see NZ’s top spot to from raucous rock to late-night/early-morn- is worth decor alone ing dub. The a funky At the time of writing, the trip to Lyttelton. earthquakevenue was closed due to dam- de age, but a reopening was Hotel serves steaks and burgers, Hotel tasty international mealsand chips, and more lamb shanks with Moroc- slow-cooked like a beer on the coolcan cous cous. Enjoy of with memoirs dotted verandah that’s is Upstairs years of history. 145 the hotel’s accommodation in chic and recently refurbished rooms with shared bathrooms (doubles $100 to $150). 8 Buses 28 and 35 run from Christchurch to Lyttelton (25 minutes). From Lyttelton by car, you can continue around Lyttelton Harbour on to Akaroa. This winding route is longer and more scenic than the route via SH75 between Akaroa. and Christchurch Mon-Fri, 1pm-late Sat & Sun) Sat 1pm-late Mon-Fri, Farmers Market Farmers (www.lyttelton.net.nz; She Chocolat She Chocolat ( Governor’s Bay Hotel Hotel Bay Governor’s ( Wunderbar Wunderbar St; 19 London (www.wunderbar.co.nz; Lava Bar, Porthole is another funky reinven- funky is another Porthole Bar, Lava Lo- container. shipping the humble tion of craft and Kiwi cal wines are served beers in Lyttelton laidback while interior, the buzzy The deck. on the alfresco folk chill Volcano too, servingCafe is still involved bar up tasty snacks. lent brunches and lunches with an organic and new-age tinge. After ricotta-and-raisin Belgian room for locally-made crepes, make in the harbour views.chocolates and take The cafe is also open for dinner on Friday nights; the menu includes aand Saturday unique chocolate-imbued degustation menu (per person wine matches Bay with Pegasus $125). Bookings recommended. 24 1 Sights 2 Activities The Giant’s House GARDEN See the visitor information centre if you like (www.thegiantshouse.co.nz; 68 Rue Balguerie; the sound of jetboating, kayaking or sail- adult/child/family $20/10/45; hnoon-5pm Dec ing on Akaroa Harbour, touring a working 26-April 22, 2-4pm in winter) An ongoing labour sheep farm or visiting a seal colony. of love from local artist Josie Martin, this The Akaroa – An Historic Walk booklet

LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND playful and whimsical combination of sculp- ($9.50) details a walking tour starting at ture and mosaics cascades down a hillside the 1876 Waeckerle Cottage (Rue Lavaud) garden above Akaroa. Echoes of Gaudí and and fi nishing at the old Taylor’s Emporium Miró can be found in the intricate collages premises near the main wharf. The route of mirrors, tiles, and broken china, and there takes in the old wooden buildings and are many surprising nooks and crannies to churches that give Akaroa its character. Au- discover and explore. Josie Martin also ex- dio guides for self-guided walking tours ($10 hibits her other paintings and sculpture in per 90 minutes) are also available at the visi- the lovely 1880 house, the former residence tor information centre. of Akaroa’s fi rst bank manager. Akaroa Cooking School COOKING COURSE Akaroa Museum MUSEUM ( %021 166 3737; www.akaroacooking.co.nz; 81 (cnr Rues Lavaud & Balguerie; adult/child/fam- Beach Rd; per person $195) Options include ily $4/1/8; h10.30am-4.30pm Oct-Apr, to 4pm popular ‘Gourmet in a Day’ sessions (10am May-Sep) This interesting museum is spread to 4pm) on Saturdays, and occasional spe- CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY over several historic buildings, including cialised seafood and barbecue classes. All the old courthouse; the tiny Custom House sessions end with tucking into your self- by Daly’s Wharf; and one of NZ’s oldest prepared feast, all accompanied by local houses, Langlois-Eteveneaux. It has modest wines. Check the website for the school’s oc- displays on the peninsula’s once-signifi cant casional forays into specifi c ethnic cuisines, Maori population, a courtroom diorama, a including Thai and Italian. Booking ahead is 20-minute audiovisual on peninsular his- highly recommended. tory, and Akaroa community archives. Banks Peninsula Track WALKING Tree Crop Farm WALKING ( %03-304 7612; www.bankstrack.co.nz; per person ( %03-304 7158; www.treecropfarm.com; admission $220) This 35km four-day walk traverses $10; h10am-5pm in good weather only; W) The private farmland around the dramatic quirky Tree Crop Farm is 1.8km off the main coastline of Banks Peninsula. Costs includes road through Akaroa (take Rue Grehan). transport from Akaroa and hut accommo- This private wilderness garden has ram- dation. A two-day option ($145) covers the bling, overgrown tracks, sheepskin-covered same ground at twice the speed. couches on a ramshackle verandah, and Akaroa Walk WALKING a cafe/travel library with loads of old Na- ( %03-962 3280, 0800 377 378; www.tuataratours. tional Geographic magazines. Rustic and co.nz; per person $1575; hNov-Apr) A leisurely romantic accommodation ($200 to $250) is upmarket 46km stroll, across three days, also available. from Christchurch to Akaroa. Includes good Maori & Colonial Museum MUSEUM accommodation and lots of gourmet food. (www.okainsbaymuseum.co.nz; adult/child $10/2; You’ll only need to carry your daypack. h10am-5pm) At Okains Bay, northeast of Akaroa Adventure Centre ADVENTURE SPORTS Akaroa, this collection of indigenous and ( %03-304 8709; Rue Lavaud; h8.30am-5.30pm) pioneer artefacts includes a reproduction The Akaroa Adventure Centre rents out sea Maori meeting house, a sacred 15th-century kayaks, bikes, golf clubs, fi shing rods and god stick, and a war canoe. windsurfi ng gear. Ask here about staying at Barrys Bay Cheese Purple Peak Backpackers (p27 ). ( %03-304 5809; www.barrysbaycheese.co.nz; Pohatu Plunge WILDLIFE h At Barrys Bay, on the western 9am-5pm) ( %03-304 8552; www.pohatu.co.nz) Runs side of Akaroa Harbour (12km from Akaroa), evening penguin-viewing tours (per adult/ is the enticing Barrys Bay Cheese, where you child $70/55); spying the white-fl ippered can taste and purchase fi ne cheddar, havarti penguin is best between August and Janu- and gouda. Crackers and chutney are avail- ary. Sea kayaking (adult/child $80/60) and able for a spontaneous seaside snack. 25 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND AROUNDTOURS CHRISTCHURCH CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY

$$$ $$$ TOUR This B&B B&B FOOD & WINE & FOOD 9am Mon-Fri) This glorious tim- ) h Le Race D’Escargots, Race Le With two vintage Cit- vintage With two iW ve themed rooms and ) ﬁ French Fest Akaroa is a Fest French iW Sleeping Festivals & Events 03-304 7419; www.garthowen.co.nz; 7 Beach www.garthowen.co.nz; 7419; 03-304 d Rd; 99 Beach www.oinako.co.nz; 8787; 03-304 03-304 8600; tour $60; 8600; tour 03-304 % % % where sleek, highly trained snails negoti- also a French ate a compact course. There’s Race later in the day. Waiter’s Gallic-inspired get-together held annually in with an em- October, late September/early and art.phasis on food, wine, music Don’t miss (or stand on) expansive bay windows with sea and gardenexpansive bay Lodgeviews. Oinako was damaged during Canterbury and 2011 the 2010 earthquakes, ber mansion was built in 1865 for the Brit- now an upmarket bed ish magistrate. It’s and breakfast with is a 120km, 4½-hour delivery service to remote parts and visitors can of the peninsula, the posties to visit isolated along with travel picnic (beachfront communities and bays included). The departs minibus the visitor are essentialinformation centre; bookings available. as there are only eight seats Rd; s/d $280-345; $280-345; s/d Rd; $245-285; incl breakfast Akaroa Garthowen ( Lodge Oinako ( z Akaroa Fest French (www.frenchfest.co.nz) 4 accommodation Banks Peninsula Most areis around Akaroa, but the outer bays also blessed with excellent and interesting budget lodgings. Akaroa has some splurge- romantic B&B accommodation. worthy, Eastern Bays Scenic Mail Run Mail Run Scenic Bays Eastern ( roën cars, two friendly Jack Russell terriers Russell friendly Jack roën cars, two and four super-comfortable en suite rooms, (almost) everything at this comes in twos usingupscale B&B rebuilt in heritage style Breakfast on the deck comes recycled cedar. with a side order of the best view in town. plus hot showers back on dry on back showers hot plus Count land. time in and including outing on a 2½-hour you don’t refund if and a $59 water, on the get have Cruises with the dolphins. to swim in seeing dol- rate a 98% success around actually 81% success rate in phins, and an $139/115 them. Costs are swimming with a cruise and swim, and for per adult/child only. for a cruise $72/35 per adult/child

SAILING WILDLIFE WILDLIFE KAYAKING BOAT TOUR BOAT HORSE RIDING HORSE Surround departs 10.15am 10.15am departs h departures 10.30am 10.30am departures Nov-May) Two-hour wildlife Two-hour h h -rigged ketch. -rigged ﬀ History, scenery and wild- History, The waters around Akaroa ce. ﬃ Fishing and scenic boat trips with Fishing and scenic boat Tours 03-304 7866, 0800 990 102; www.akaroadol 102; 0800 990 7866, 03-304 03-304 7641; www.blackcat.co.nz; Main Wharf; Main www.blackcat.co.nz; 7641; 03-304 03-304 7866; www.akaroaseakayaks.co.nz; www.akaroaseakayaks.co.nz; 7866; 03-304 021 228 8091, 0800 126 278; www.coastupclose. 0800 126 278; 228 8091, 021 0800 369 7245; www.akaroafoxsail.co.nz; Daly’s Daly’s www.akaroafoxsail.co.nz; 7245; 0800 369 03-304 7112; www.onuku-heights.co.nz; 166 7112; www.onuku-heights.co.nz; 03-304 departures 10.15am, 12.45pm & 3.15pm in sum- & 3.15pm 12.45pm 10.15am, departures 5 tours daily 6am-3.30pm Oct-April, 1 tour daily 1 tour Oct-April, daily 6am-3.30pm 5 tours % % % % % % & 1.45pm) phins.co.nz; 65 Beach Rd; adult/child $70/35; $70/35; adult/child Rd; 65 Beach phins.co.nz; Beach Rd; kayak hire per half-/full day $35/60) day per half-/full hire kayak Rd; Beach co.nz; adult/child from $65/25; from adult/child co.nz; Wharf; adult/child $70/30; $70/30; adult/child Wharf; Haylocks Rd; from $110; $110; from Rd; Haylocks life on NZ’s oldest ga life on NZ’s plenty of birds and wildlife. of birds and plenty mer, 10.15am only in winter) 10.15am mer, Captain Hector’s Sea Kayaks Kayaks Sea Hector’s Captain ( Coast Up Close Up Close Coast ( ( Black Cat Cruises Black Cat Cruises ( h h T Dolphins Akaroa ( Fox II Sailing Adventures Adventures II Sailing Fox Onuku Heights Horse Treks Treks Heights Horse Onuku ( 4WD nature tours (adult/child $90/50) are $90/50) (adult/child tours nature 4WD staying option of with the also available, (additional cottage in a secluded overnight Re- Nature the Pohutu person) in $20 per serve. are home to the world’s smallest and rarest smallest are home to the world’s dolphin, found only in dolphin, the Hector’s NZ waters. If viewing the dolphins on a harbour cruise isn’t enough, Black Cat Cruises can also get you swimming alongside the not the calving sea- dolphins (assuming it’s operate year-round and carry son). Trips only 10 swimmers per trip, so book ahead. gear are provided,suits and snorkelling Wet 11.30am May-Sep) Rental kayaks, canoes and rowboats for self- Rental kayaks, exploration. & 1.30pm Dec–May) yourself with the best of the spectacularyourself with Onuku Heights scenery of Banks Peninsula. signs from Akaroa: follow the is 15 minutes continue uphill and turn to Onuku Marae, Rd. left into Haylocks cruises, plus evening cruises and bird- hi to watching trips by arrangement. Say dog extraordi- wildlife-spotting Murphy, naire, for us – he even stars in his own chil- at the Akaroa picture book, available dren’s Dolphins o 26 but at the time of writing was scheduled to dhills Rd, this pleasant park has good har- reopen in September 2012. Check the web- bour views and versatile options for every site for the latest news. budget.

Chez la Mer HOSTEL $ Around Banks Peninsula ( %03-304 7024; www.chezlamer.co.nz; 50 Rue Coombe Farm B&B Lavaud; dm $25-28, d with/without bathroom o LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND ( %03-304 7239; www.coombefarm.co.nz; 18 Old Le $80/70; iW) A friendly backpackers with well-kept rooms and a shaded garden, com- Bons Track; d incl breakfast $145-165) Choose be- plete with fi sh ponds, hammocks, barbecue tween staying in the private and romantic and outdoor seating; it’s also a TV-free zone. Shepherd’s Hut – complete with an outdoor Free bikes and fi shing rods are available. bath – or in the historic farm house, now lovingly restored and dotted with interest- Bon Accord HOSTEL $ ing contemporary art and Asian antiques. ( %03-304 7782; www.bon-accord.co.nz; 57 Rue Hosts Hugh and Kathrine are a friendly Lavaud; dm $27-30, d $59-89; iW) This col- Kiwi-English couple. After breakfast (includ- ourful and quirky backpackers fi lls a coming homemade jam and organic yoghurt), pact 155-year-old house. Relax on the deck you can negotiate Coombe Farm’s private or in the two cosy lounges, or dive into the forest and stream walkway. herb-fi lled garden to release your inner French chef. There are free bikes to get you oS Okuti Garden HOMESTAY $ exploring. (www.okuti.co.nz; 216 Okuti Valley Rd; per person CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY $40; hopen year-round, teepees and yurts late Oct- Old Shipping Office APARTMENT $$$ Easter only; iW) Part eco-aware homestay, ( %0800 695 2000; www.akaroavillageinn.co.nz; part WWOOFer’s haven – and an all-round Church St; d $230) A self-contained apart- funky and friendly place to stay. Options in- ment in a restored heritage building with clude sleeping in a teepee, a Mongolian yurt, an interesting past. (No prizes for guess- house truck, earth-brick cottage or farming the building’s former incarnation.) Two house. Organic breakfasts ($15) and din- bedrooms, a spacious shared lounge and an ners ($40) are available, many ingredients outdoor spa pool make the Old Shipping sourced from Okuti’s own gardens. There’re Offi ce a good option for families or for two plenty of natural nooks and crannies for couples. Check-in is at the adjacent Akaroa reading or relaxing, and there’s a generous Village Inn. supply of fresh herbs to kickstart your crea- Tresori Motor Lodge MOTEL $$ tivity in the shared kitchen. ( %0800 273 747, 03-304 7500; www.tresori.co.nz; Halfmoon Cottage HOSTEL $ cnr Rue Jolie & Church St; d $155-205; iW) For ( %03-304 5050; www.halfmoon.co.nz; dm/s/d designer-conscious lodgings treat yourself to $30/52/75; hoften closed Jun-Sep; W) This the Tresori; its rich, colourful decor is any- marvellous cottage at Barrys Bay (12km thing but bland. It’s a short walk to Akaroa’s from Akaroa) is a blissful place to spend a waterfront cafe and restaurant strip. few days lazing on the big verandahs or in La Rive Motel MOTEL $$ the hammocks dotting the lush gardens. ( %0800 247 651, 03-304 7651; www.larive.co.nz; The rooms – mostly doubles – are warmly 1 Rue Lavaud; d $125-135; W) Old-style motel decorated, and the local landscapes and sea- with big rooms and good facilities; well scapes can be explored by bicycle or kayak. priced considering each unit (studio, two- Double Dutch HOSTEL $ and three-bedroom options) is fully self-con- ( %03-304 7229; www.doubledutch.co.nz; 32 tained. The decor is slightly dated compared Chorlton Rd; dm/s $30/55, d with/without bath- to other more modern motels, but La Rive room $76/70; i) Posh enough to be a B&B represents good value in a sometimes pricey but budget-friendly, this relaxed hostel destination. Most downstairs units open out is perched on a secluded river estuary in onto compact courtyards. farmland. There’s a general store (and a Akaroa Top 10 Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $ beach) just a short walk away, but it’s best ( %0800 727 525, 03-304 7471; www.akaroa-holi to bring your own ingredients for the fl ash daypark.co.nz; 96 Morgans Rd; sites from $35, units kitchen. $70-118; iW) On a terraced hillside above town and connected by a pathway to Woo- 27 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND AROUNDEATING CHRISTCHURCH & CHRISTCHURCH DRINKING & CANTERBURY

$ $ $$ $$ x- BAR ﬁ CAFE CAFE ITALIAN FRENCH FRENCH très chic très , FISH & CHIPS CHIPS & FISH RESTAURANT RESTAURANT Order takea- Très petite

) with Akaroa salmon ff v Named after a well-trav- Named nitely necessary. Sometimes nitely necessary. fi Thin-crust pasta pizzas, tapas, A perfect waterfront location com- The Little Bistro Bistro The Little Tasty gourmet pies ($7), picnic Tasty Drinking & Eating 03-304 7314; 33 Rue Lavaud; mains $27-35; mains $27-35; Lavaud; Rue 33 7314; 03-304 6pm-late Tue-Sun; Tue-Sun; 6pm-late % ways and sit beside the ocean, or grab a tableways and tuck into blue cod, scallops, oysters and other assorted deep-fried goodness. Either a close eye on the local posse of keep way, eager cats and seagulls. Truby’s Bar on the Beach on the Beach Bar Truby’s Jolie) (Rue (www.bullyhayes.co.nz; 57 Beach Rd; lunch $15-25, lunch $15-25, Rd; Beach 57 (www.bullyhayes.co.nz; dinner mains $22-35) Fish & Chips Akaroa $6-15) & meals snacks Rd; Beach (59 (www.vangionis.co.nz; Rue Brittan; tapas $8-18, $8-18, tapas Brittan; Rue (www.vangionis.co.nz; $18-28) pizza Rouge L’Escargot meals Rd; Beach 67 (www.lescargotrouge.co.nz; $8-14) Bully Hayes 5 o ( h Vangionis and Canterbury all feature beers and wines Secure an out- trattoria. at this Tuscan-style lunchtime, after- side table and while away are also pizzas noon, or evening. Takeaway available. before touching down for gourmet burg- beers and ers, pasta, and tapas. Monteith’s a worthwhile it a good local wine list make ($31) platter the seafood Try place to linger. from local waters. bounty for lots of briny a good spot for breakfast, too. It’s ings and French-accented breakfasts are ings and French-accented Try at the ‘Red Snail’. the main attractions the homemade toasted muesli with fruit, yoghurt and honey ($12) before exploring Akaroa harbour by kayak. the menu at this elled American buccaneer, spot kicks o sunny bines with rustic outdoor seating to produce place for a sundowner drink. best Akaroa’s blue cod and chips for dinner are Truby’s and very tasty. Look forward to classic bis- and very tasty. proud Kiwi spin with local given a tro style wines and Canter- Island seafood, South bury craftThe beers. changes sea- menu like includes favourites but usually sonally, salmon lamb or Akaroa pistachio-encrusted terrine; vegetariansnot ignored. Book- are ing ahead is de – check the black- open for lunch in summer board out the front. $ $ $ $ HOSTEL HOSTEL HOSTEL HOSTEL CAMPSITE CAMPSITE HOLIDAY PARK PARK HOLIDAY On pine-tree- This rustic surf ) c adventure play- fi from grassy tent i An eco-minded back- An eco-minded ) ). 24 iW ts for the kids include camp- fi This sprawling campground This sprawling 03-325 1014; www.littlerivercampground. 1014; 03-325 03-304 8789; www.okainsbaycamp.co.nz; 1162 www.okainsbaycamp.co.nz; 8789; 03-304 03-420 0199; www.purplepeak.co.nz; camping www.purplepeak.co.nz; 0199; 03-420 03-304 7066; www.onuku.co.nz; Onuku Rd; Rd; Onuku www.onuku.co.nz; 7066; 03-304 closed Jun-Aug; Jun-Aug; closed % % % % res, trampolines and a natural swimming red pizza oven. Surfboards and gear are peppered ground right by a beach, with spick-and-span kitchen facilities and coin- your fees at the operated hot showers. Pay entrance. house at the camping ground’s a small general store around 1km There’s down the road, and a terri ground for the kids. Okains Bay Rd; adult/child $12/6) adult/child Rd; Bay Okains by donation, dm/d $25/60; dm/d donation, by sites per person from $12.50, dm/d from $28/66; from dm/d $12.50, from person per sites packers with basic huts, tent sites and a sites and huts, tent with basic packers Onuku, on a sheep farm near comfy house to November of Akaroa. From 6km south organise swimming- the owners March tours ($100) and kayakingwith-dolphins up from guests, and will pick trips ($50) for Akaroa. The owned the same family has the 1860s,farm since so you should trust some great there’s them when they say walks on the 340-hectare spread. A newly- developed it a great makes campsite area with tents or camper- option for travellers trips are alsovans. Dolphin and kayaking open to non-guests. hole in the river. sites through to rustic Kiwiana cabins. a really cruisy family atmosphere: There’s added bene fi near the hamlet of Little River is arrayed River is arrayed near the hamlet of Little around a forest and riverside setting. Ac- commodation ranges ( Okains Bay Camping Ground Camping Ground Bay Okains ( Little River Campground Campground Little River Purple Peak Backpackers Backpackers Peak Purple ( h Onuku Farm Hostel Hostel Farm Onuku ( co.nz; 287 Okuti Valley Rd; sites from $25, cab- $25, from sites Rd; Valley Okuti 287 co.nz; ins $40-110) lodge and backpackers has glorious sea has lodge and backpackers views location. and a rugged, out-of-the-way but clean, andAccommodation is simple the occasional tasty during summer there’s seafood barbecue and an outdoor wood- fi are provided shuttles for hire. Free available from Akaroa. See Darin at the Akaroa Ad- venture Centre (p 28 world-famous in Akaroa, and baked cheese- Rd; mains $15-26; ic) on SH75 in Amberley cake and good coff ee are other distractions crafts four diff erent beers; sample them all earlier in the day. for $12. Our favourite is the gloriously hoppy Hophead IPA. Gourmet pizzas ($20 to $25) Four Square Supermarket SUPERMARKET $ and meals including Akaroa salmon and (Rue Lavaud; h8am-8pm) Good deli and wine steak sandwiches are also available. Coff ee selection.

LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND and New York–style baked cheesecake ($10) are other tasty options. 3 Entertainment A few kilometres up SH1, the scenic Cine Café CINEMA Waipara Valley is home to around 20 win- ( %03-304 7678; www.cinecafe.co.nz; cnr Rue Jolie eries; see www.waiparawines.co.nz. Sample & Selwyn Ave; adult/child $15/13; h2-10pm; W) a pinot noir or riesling and stop for lunch Part cafe with excellent pastries, soups and at one of the spectacular vineyard restau- wi-fi , and part cinema showing art-house rants. Waipara Springs (www.waiparasprings. fl icks. co.nz; SH1), Pegasus Bay (www.pegasusbay. com; Stockgrove Rd; mains $27-39; hnoon-4pm) 8 Information and the Mud House (www.themudhousewin Akaroa Information Centre (%03-304 8600; ery.co.nz; SH1) are open daily for wine tast- www.akaroa.com; 80 Rue Lavaud; h9am-5pm) ing and sales, and all have restaurant-cafes Tours, activities and accommodation. for a leisurely lunch. During summer, the Mud House also hosts occasional local and CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY 8 Getting There & Away international concerts; see www.dayonthe From November to April the Akaroa Shut- green.com.au. The annual Waipara Wine tle (%0800 500 929; www.akaroashuttle. and Food Festival (www.waiparawineandfood. co.nz; return $45) departs Christchurch daily co.nz) is held in early March. Wine tours are at 8.30am and 2pm , returning from Akaroa at available from several Christchurch-based 10.30am, 3.35pm and 4.30pm. Bookings are companies. recommended. From May to September, there’s The Pegasus Bay Restaurant (%03- only a 10am departure from Christchurch. Check 314 6869; www.pegasusbay.com; Stockgrove Rd; the website for Christchurch pick-up options. mains $27-39; hnoon-4pm) has an old-world Scenic tours from Christchurch exploring Banks ambience set amid a lovely European- Peninsula are also available. style garden. The menu takes advantage French Connection (%0800 800 575; www. of superb local produce and recommends akaroabus.co.nz; return $45) has a year-round appropriate wine matches – Pegasus Bay daily departure from Christchurch at 9.15am, is a regular contender for NZ’s Best Win- returning from Akaroa at 4pm. ery Restaurant award. Booking ahead is recommended. Near the intersection with SH7 is Waipara NORTH CANTERBURY Sleepers (%03-314 6003; www.waiparasleepers. From Christchurch, SH1 heads north for co.nz; 12 Glenmark Dr; sites from $20, dm $25, s 57km through Woodend and Amberley to $35-45, d $55-65; iW), where you can camp, Waipara. From here it continues northeast bunk down in converted train carriages, and to Kaikoura, while SH7 branches due north cook your own meals in the ‘station house’. to Hurunui, through fl at farming country, The local pub and general store are located to reach Culverden. About 27km from Cul- close by. verden is the turn-off from SH7 to Hanmer Springs, a thermal resort. The Alpine Pacif- ic Triangle Touring Guide outlines things Hanmer Springs to see and do in this region. See also www. POP 750 visithurunui.co.nz. Hanmer Springs, the main thermal resort If you’re a wine buff or foodie, look for the on the South Island, is 10km off SH7. It’s a North Canterbury Food & Wine Trail tour- pleasantly low-key spot to indulge in bath- ing map at the i-SITE in Christchurch. On- ing in hot pools and being pampered in the line, see www.foodandwinetrail.co.nz. spa complex. There are good restaurants The Brew Moon Garden Café & Brew- and lots of family-friendly activities. ery (www.brewmooncafe.co.nz; 150 Ashworths 29 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND NORTHSIGHTS CHRISTCHURCH CANTERBURY & CANTERBURY

FARM 10am- Han- Rides pam- h 9am-5pm) HORSE RIDING HORSE h ADVENTURE SPORTS ADVENTURE SPORTS ADVENTURE Mt Lyford Ski Mt Lyford 03-315 7346; www. 7346; 03-315 % (

meets SH7. There’s There’s meets SH7. is the closest, 17km is the closest, 17km ff (1½ hours), which leads(1½ hours), starts from Jollies Pass Pass starts from Jollies a 35m-high bridge ($169), jet- ff shing rods (per day $25) and ski(per day shing rods fi booking office booking Hanmer Forest Recreation is 60km away. They’re cheaper than is 60km away. in town. With more animals than Dr Dolittle’s With more animals than Dr Dolittle’s Bungy o r, poplar and redwood stands. It joins and redwood stands. poplar r, Majuba Walk Walk Majuba fi 0800 873 546; www.hanmerhorses.co.nz; 1hr 546; www.hanmerhorses.co.nz; 0800 873 0800 368 7386, 03-315 7233; www.hanmer 7233; 03-315 0800 368 7386, www.waiariki-farmpark.co.nz; 7772; 03-315 03-315 7046; www.thrillseekerscanyon.co.nz; www.thrillseekerscanyon.co.nz; 7046; 03-315 There are two skiing areas nearby. skiing areas nearby. There are two The 10am-4pm Tue-Sat, open daily during school holi- open daily during school Tue-Sat, 10am-4pm % % % % mer Springs Ski Field and (unsealed) from town, Field larger resorts. Springs Adven- The Hanmer ture Centre operates transport. phlet short ($2) outlines near town, walks through picturesquemostly The forest. easy Walk Woodland Doug- town, and goes through Rd, 1km from las the Lookoutand then back to- to Conical Hill Thewards town. has details i-SITE of longer those in Laketramps, including Sumner to the west. Park Forest boat the Waiau Gorge (adult/child $115/60) Gorge (adult/child boat the Waiau or go white-water rafting (Grade II to III) $149/79). River (adult/child down the Waiau Other activities include quad-biking (adult/ child $129/99). Book at the Thrillseekers centre, next to the bridge where theCanyon Springs turn-o Hanmer another 6pm) Books activities, (from and rents quad-bikes from (per hour/day $129), mountain bikes $19/45), biking maps Mountain and snowboard gear. i-SITE. at the are available rides adult/child $59/49, 2½hr treks $99) 2½hr treks $59/49, adult/child rides adventure.co.nz; 20 Conical Hill Rd; Hill Rd; Conical 20 adventure.co.nz; $12/6/35 ; adult/child/family Rd; Rippingale 108 SH7) Hanmer Horses Hanmer Horses ( ( Park Ariki Farm Wai ( h Thrillseekers Canyon Canyon Thrillseekers ( Hanmer Springs Centre Adventure days) thrillseekerscanyon.co.nz; Conical Hill Rd; Hill Rd; Conical thrillseekerscanyon.co.nz; claybird shooting. Family-friendly activities shooting.claybird Family-friendly bicycles.and tandem mini-golf include Facebook page, Wai Ariki is a great spot for Ariki page, Wai Facebook kids. Lllamas, Tibetan yaks, rabbits, guinea of thepigs and goats all feature, and many can be hand-fed; horse treks for the critters and Mum For young ones are also available. craft a cafe and gallery. Dad there’s

Moles- BATHHOUSE Hanmer 10am-9pm) WORKING FARM WORKING has mas- ve-hour ‘no h fi res of Tamatea, res of Tamatea, shing trips and fi fi res allowed). Pick fi 10am-7pm) er 4WD tours of the ff h o ights, fl 0800 873 529, 03-315 0029; 03-315 529, 0800 873 % ( brochure from the Hanmer brochure from the Hanmer

Molesworth Heritage Tours Heritage Molesworth Oct-May) h Sights Activities 03-315 7401; www.molesworth.co.nz; tours tours www.molesworth.co.nz; 7401; 03-315 03-315 0000; www.hanmersprings.co.nz; entry 0000; www.hanmersprings.co.nz; 03-315 The water mixes with fresh- hot-spring % % sage and beauty treatments from $70. Asage and beauty liftedrecent refurbishment has the spa to and entryinternational standards, to the if you also partakepools is discounted to $12 facilities. of the spa’s $198-695; $198-695; on Amuri Ave; adult/child $18/9; adult/child Ave; on Amuri Springs Spa Springs 2 Springs activities include Other Hanmer kayaking, scenic ( Molesworth Station Molesworth At 180,500 hectares, Station, Molesworth largest Springs, is NZ’s northeast of Hanmer herd largest cattle farm, with the country’s at the i-SITE about (up to 10,000). Inquire which isindependent visits to Molesworth, under DOC control. Visits are usually only possible when the Acheron Rd through the station is open from late December to early The drive from permitting). April (weather Springs north to Blenheim on thisHanmer unsealed backcountry road takes narrow, around six hours; note that the gates are only open from 7am to 7pm, and overnight $6/1.50) is permitted camping (adult/child in certain areas (no open up the Department of Conservation Stationworth Springs i-SITE or download it from www. doc.govt.nz. Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools Pools Thermal Springs Hanmer ( 1 www.hanmerspa.co.nz; www.hanmerspa.co.nz; Visitors have been soaking in the waters of been soaking Visitors have for over a Thermal Springs Pools Hanmer Localhundred years. the legend has it that are the thermal springs after an eruption of the sky which fell from Maori on the North Island; Mt Ngauruhoe Waters). (Sacred Waitapu call the springs of varyingwater to produce pools tempera- to mineral pools, there are addition tures. In freshwater 25m laplandscaped rock pools, a ($25 per half- pool, private thermal pools hour) and a restaurant. Loads of fun for kids and the excit-of all ages include a waterslide ing Superbowl ($10). The adjacent station and the remote private land stretch- ing north tours include a to St Arnaud. Day also a picnic lunch, but there’s frills’ option. 30 depart from a forested setting 10 minutes packers is a cosy, woodlined haven with a from town on Rogerson Rd. Younger chil- friendly and well-travelled host. Well-main- dren can be led on a pony for 30 minutes tained shared social areas, cheap wi-ﬁ access ($25). and free fruit and coﬀ ee all add further big ticks. There’s even another edible surprise 4 Sleeping which we can’t talk about.

LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND Woodbank Park Cottages COTTAGES $$ Rosie’s B&B $ ( %03-315 5075; www.woodbankcottages.co.nz; 381 ( %03-315 7095; [email protected]; 9 Chelten- Woodbank Rd; d $180-200) These two matching ham St; s $55-90, d $85-130, all incl breakfast) Ro- cottages in a woodland setting are around 10 sie was originally from Australia, but she’s minutes’ drive from Hanmer, but feel a mil- now off ering great Kiwi hospitality at this lion miles away. Decor is crisp and modern, welcoming and reader-recommended spot. bathrooms and kitchens are well-appointed Rooms off er either en suite or with shared and expansive wooden decks come equipped facilities. Look forward to recently decorat- with gas barbecues and rural views. ed bathrooms and a friendly cat called Kiri. Cheltenham House B&B $$$ The garden cottage ($130) is a nicely private ( %03-315 7545; www.cheltenham.co.nz; 13 Chel- option. tenham St; s $195-235, d $235-265; iW) Cen- Hanmer Springs Top 10 trally located B&B with six snooze-inducing Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $ suites, all with bathroom, and including two ( %0800 904 545, 03-315 7113; www.mountainview CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY in cosy garden cottages; there’s a billiard top10.co.nz; Bath St; sites from $32, units $80-160; table, grand piano and complimentary pre- iW) Family-friendly park a few minutes’ dinner wine. Cooked gourmet breakfasts walk from the Hanmer thermal reserve. Kids can be delivered to your room. Avoid the will love the playground and the trampoline. crowds up the road in the private hot tub. Take your pick from basic cabins (BYO eve- Le Gîte HOSTEL $$ rything) to two-bedroom motel units with ( %03-315 5111; www.legite.co.nz; 3 Devon St; dm everything supplied. There are two more $28, d with/without bathroom $76/64; iW) This camping grounds in town if it’s full. charming old converted home is a 10-minute Kakapo Lodge HOSTEL $ walk from the centre. Large rooms (no ( %03-315 7472; www.kakapolodge.co.nz; 14 Amuri bunks), relaxing gardens and a lovely lounge Ave; dm $28, d $66-90; iW) The spartan, YHA- area are drawcards. For extra privacy, book a affi liated Kakapo has a roomy kitchen and garden ‘chalet’ with private bathroom. lounge, chill-busting underfl oor heating and Tussock Peak Motor Lodge MOTEL $$ an outdoor deck. Bunk-free dorms (some ( %03-315 5191, 0800 8877 625; www.tussockpeak. with bathroom) are joined by a motel-style co.nz; cnr Amuri Ave & Leamington St; d $145-225; unit ($100) with TV and cooking facilities. W) Modern, spotless and central, Tussock Peak has colourful decor and friendly serv- 5 Eating & Drinking ice that’s an eclectic cut above other motels Chantellini’s FRENCH $$ on Hanmer’s main drag. The hardest part is ( %03-315 7667; www.chantellinis.com; 11 Jollies choosing what kind of room to get: studio, Pass Rd; mains $30-36; h10am-10:30ampm) one- or two-bedroom units, spas, courtyards Tucked away behind the main street, this or balconies. quiet oasis is a relaxed cafe with outdoor garden seating by day, and an intimate Scenic View Motels MOTEL $$ French bar and restaurant by night. Chan- ( %03-315 7419; www.hanmerscenicviews.co.nz; deliers and black drapes create an elegant 10 Amuri Ave; d $135-200; iW) An attractive ambience. Portions are generous, and the timber-and-stone complex with modern, daily two/three-course lunch for $25/30 colourful studios and two- and three-bed- is great value – try the leek tart or on- room apartments. Mountain views come as ion soup. Bookings are recommended for standard. dinner. Hanmer Backpackers HOSTEL $ Powerhouse Café CAFE $$ ( %03-315 7196; www.hanmerbackpackers.co.nz; 41 ( %03-315 5252; www.powerhousecafe.co.nz; 6 Conical Hill Rd; dm $27, s $55, d $58-70; iW) Cen- Jacks Pass Rd; mains $12-20; Wv) Recharge trally located, the township’s original back- your batteries with a huge High Country 31 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND NORTH8 CHRISTCHURCH CANTERBURY & CANTERBURY

) ff iW is not (66km; (adult/child (adult/child Lake Sumner & & Sumner Lake Lewis Pass owers’ is pumped , with fairly spar- 03-523 8840; www. 03-523 fl ff Springs Junction % (

er the best mountain ies in summer. Massages Massages ies in summer. ff fl thermal pools St James Walkway St James ($2). Most tracks pass through ($2). Most ve days) in the Lewis Pass Na- in the Lewisve days) Pass fi akes of ‘hot akes spring fl The interesting tramps; area has some Maruia Springs Maruia SH7 continues to

Check the websites of both companies for cur- maruiasprings.co.nz; SH7; d $179-199, f $259; f $259; d $179-199, SH7; maruiasprings.co.nz; where the Shenandoah Hwy (SH65) branch- where the Shenandoah Hwy (SH65) es north while to meet SH6 near Murchison, SH7 continues west to Reefton to and down has a petrolGreymouth. Springs Junction station and cafe. tan accommodation, a cafe-bar and a Japa- nese restaurant (breakfast & dinner only). Despite the name, the cheaper Garden View rooms actually o the views. In $19/9, free for guests), water with black mineral is a small, Japanese-style hot-spring resort is a small, Japanese-style 69km River, on the banks of the Maruia turn-o from the Hanmer to Lewis Pass, Maruia Springs and Springs Maruia to Lewis Pass, The 907m-high Junction. dense as Arthur’s as steep or the forest as with mainly red and silver Passes, and Haast along river trees growing beech and kowhai terraces. see the DOC pamphlet Pass Lewis of snowcappedbeech forest with a backdrop and alpine tarns and riv- mountains, lakes, ers. The tramps are around most popular Lake Sumner in the Lake Sumner Forest the and Park www.atsnz.com) also links Hanmer Springs to Christchurch. Shuttles depart from the Hanmer i-SITE. Christchurch. from points departure rent Lewis Pass Hwy At the northern Alps, end of the Southern (SH7) Hwy wig- Lewisthe beautiful Pass Springs turn-o the Hanmer gles west from into a gender-segregated traditional Japa- nese bathhouse and outdoor rock pools. It’s during a winter snowfall,a magical setting but mind the sand (per 30/50 minutes $45/65) and private spa houses (per person for 45 minutes $25) are available. three to tional Reserve. Subalpine conditions apply, sure you sign the intentions booksso make at the huts.

$ $ $$ $$ PUB THAI THAI ASIAN ASIAN BAKERY BAKERY Grab a SUPERMARKET SUPERMARKET ee is a goodee is ff 0800 242 663; The best pub ers good-value ff % erent Monteiths 6am-4pm) ( erent curries,or ff 03-315 7128, 0800 0800 7128, 03-315 ff h % ( Run by a friendly Thai by a friendly Run ve-spice crackling pork belly. crackling pork belly. ve-spice In Hanmer’s shopping mall. Hanmer’s In fi of are plenty access, and there ee or gourmet pie. 10am-5pm) Books transport, fi ff h Hanmer Connection Hanmer showcasing four di Getting There & Away Information 03-315 7745; www.malabar.co.nz; 5 Conical www.malabar.co.nz; 7745; 03-315 uenced – think bagels, omelettes, oromelettes, uenced – think bagels, fl % the moreish Breakfast and lunch options are less-AsianBreakfast and lunch options in A limited takea- burgers – but equally tasty. Chinese and Thai fa- of Indian, menu way (around $13). vourites is also available lunch specials ($14). Service – usually by thelunch specials ($14). but that’s kids – can be hit and miss, family’s are part of the low-key charm. Takeaways also available. family, the cosy Thai the cosy Chilli respects requests family, and also o please’, for ‘spicy, in town features lots of di from bar snacks ($10 tucker beers and tasty to $32). Platters to $17) to full meals ($17 ($27 to $54) are good value if you’ve just met some new in the hot pools across the friends road. 733 426; www.visithanmersprings.co.nz; 42 42 www.visithanmersprings.co.nz; 733 426; Ave; Amuri Hill Rd; lunch & breakfast $10-22 dinner $28-36) $10-22 lunch & breakfast Hill Rd; takeaway co takeaway 8 Hanmer Backpackers run daily shuttles between Hanmer and Christchurch (90 minutes) and also operate a convenient service to and from Kaikoura (two hours; Monday, Wednesday and Friday). 8 i-SITE Springs Hanmer Four Square Supermarket Supermarket Square Four Hill Rd) (Conical Hanmer Springs Bakery Bakery Hanmer Springs $5; pies Hill Rd; Conical (16 Monteith’s Brewery Bar Bar Brewery Monteith’s Amuri Ave) 47 (wwww.mbbh.co.nz; Malabar Restaurant & Bar & Bar Restaurant Malabar ( (The Mall; mains $14-20) (The Mall; mains accommodation and activities. trade for wi- vegetariangluten-free and options. Thai Chilli breakfast, or linger for a more sophisticated a more for or linger breakfast, Dur- salad. goats-cheese of a creamy lunch return of Akaroa for dinner ing summer, court- spacious in the Powerhouse’s salmon fair-trade co organic yard. An This elegant eatery presents Asian cuisine the Malabar to Bangalore. Try from Beijing thali 32 CENTRAL CANTERBURY winter, packages including ski-equipment rental and ski-fi eld transport are on off er. Two hours west from Christchurch on SH73 Nearby year-round activities include jet- is Arthur’s Pass National Park. The trans- boating, rock climbing, mountain biking island crossing from Christchurch to Grey- and horse trekking. mouth over Arthur’s Pass is covered by buses Flock Hill Lodge LODGE $$

LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND and the TranzAlpine train. From Christchurch the road traverses ( %03-318 8196; www.fl ockhill.co.nz; SH73; sites the Canterbury Plains and then escalates from $30, dm/d $31/155; iW) This high-coun- rapidly into the Porters and Craigieburn ski- try sheep station is 44km east of Arthur’s ing areas before following the Waimakariri Pass, adjacent to Lake Pearson and the and Bealey Rivers and Lakes Pearson and Craigieburn Forest Park. Backpackers can Grasmere to Arthur’s Pass. Southwest of stay in rustic shearers’ quarters, while large Christchurch (reached by SH73 and SH77) is groups can opt for two-bedroom motel units the Mt Hutt ski resort and Methven. or large cottages with kitchenettes. After fi shing, exploring, horse riding or mountain biking, recharge in the cosy bar-restaurant. Craigieburn Forest Park Unpowered camping sites are also available. Accessed from SH73, this forest park is Wilderness Lodge LODGE $$$ 110km northwest of Christchurch and 42km ( %03-318 9246; www.wildernesslodge.co.nz; SH73; south of Arthur’s Pass. The park has many s $499-649 d $798-998, all incl breakfast & dinner; CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY walking tracks, with longer tramps pos- i) Luxurious lodge on a mountain-beech- sible in the valleys west of the Craigieburn speckled sheep station (2400 hectares in Range; see the DOC pamphlet Craigieburn size), 16km east of Arthur’s Pass. Alpine Forest Park: Day Walks ($1). The surround- views and the world’s longest driveway pro- ing country is also suitable for skiing and duce an absolute middle-of-nowhere atmos- rock climbing. Dominating the vegetation phere, and standalone studios with private is beech, tussock, and turpentine scrub, and spa baths feel even more remote. Walking, even a few patches of South Island edelweiss birdwatching and canoeing are all on tap. (Leucogenes grandiceps). Craigieburn has a rise of 503m so is one Bealey Hotel HOTEL $$ of NZ’s best skiing areas, with wild-country ( %03-318 9277; www.bealeyhotel.co.nz; s/d without slopes that suit advanced skiers. bathroom $60/80, units $150-180; i) Just 12km Near Broken River Bridge is the Cave east of Arthur’s Pass, tiny Bealey is famous Stream Scenic Reserve, with a 594m-long for a hoax by the local pub owner in 1993. He cave with a small waterfall at one end. Take reckoned he’d seen a real live moa, hence the all the necessary precautions (two light bogus Big Bird statue standing on a rocky sources per person etc) if you’re doing the outcrop. There are self-contained motel one-hour walk in waist-deep cold water units and the budget and basic Moa Lodge. through the pitch-black cave. For details, Enjoy expansive alpine views from the Mad get the DOC brochure Cave Stream Scenic Moa restaurant. Reserve (50c). The reserve is in the Castle Famous Sheffield Pie Shop BAKERY $ Hill area, with prominent limestone out- (Main Rd; pies $4-6) This roadside bakery in crops loved by rock climbers and boulder- the quiet Canterbury Plains hamlet of Shef- ers. Scenes from The Chronicles of Narnia: fi eld turns out some of NZ’s best pies. There’s The Lion, the Witch and the Wardrobe were more than 20 diff erent varieties on off er. fi lmed in the area.

4 Sleeping & Eating Arthur’s Pass Smylie’s Accommodation HOSTEL $ POP 62 ( %03-318 4740; www.smylies.co.nz; Main Rd; dm/ Arthur’s Pass village is 4km from the pass of s/d $28/45/60; iW) This welcoming YHA- the same name and is NZ’s highest-altitude associated hostel and ski lodge is in the settlement. The 924m pass was used by town of Springﬁ eld, around 30km southeast Maori to reach Westland, but its European of Craigieburn. A handful of self-contained discovery was made by Arthur Dobson in motel units ($85 to $120) and a three-bed- 1864, when the Westland gold rush created room cottage ($180) are also available. In the need for a crossing over the Southern 33 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND CENTRALSIGHTS CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURYACTIVITIES & CANTERBURY

$ $ ff $$ $$ $$ CAFE CAFE This CAFÉ CAFÉ HOSTEL HOSTEL Excel- MOTEL MOTEL MOTEL 03-318 03-318 ) ll up in fi % ( iW 8am-5pm) 8am-5pm) h rst. fi res are also avail- fi Centrally located, with two Sells sandwiches, burgers, pies ) In the southern part with of town, In ) iW Information iW 03-318 9233; www.apam.co.nz; SH73; d $115- SH73; www.apam.co.nz; 9233; 03-318 www.apmotel.co.nz; 0616; 131 021 9233, 03-318 027 419 2354, 03-318 9258; www.trampers. 9258; 03-318 419 2354, 027 % % % able. Bookings are recommended from No- able. Bookings are recommended can sometimes camp vember to April. You Phone the cottages. ($20 per person) near ahead to check availability tion of the interesting owners. Ask owners. interesting of the tion Geo about his time working for Greenpeace, and for Greenpeace, his time working about like dinners home-cooked tasty, tuck into guest The ($35). roast chicken organic two bathroom. share one bedrooms friendly cafe-bar serves steaks, pasta and pizza ($28) is also available. pizza. Takeaway $18) is a ($10 to Kea Breakfast at the Wobbly local tradition designed to set you up for the most active of days. lent dorms and private rooms on one side of private rooms on one lent dorms and but still comfortable, and older, the highway, rooms across the road. The owners also provide transport to trailheads. Self-contained with cosy open cottages 135; 135; d $145) SH73; co.nz; SH73; dm $27-29, s/d/tr/q $79/82/99/124, $79/82/99/124, s/d/tr/q dm $27-29, SH73; co.nz; plus $15 per person; d $140 cottage Wobbly Kea Kea Wobbly $15-32) meals SH73; (www.wobblykea.co.nz; Store Pass Arthur’s (SH73; 8 DOC Arthur’s Pass Visitor Centre Arthur’s Pass Alpine Motel Alpine Motel Pass Arthur’s ( Motel Village Pass Arthur’s ( luxury units with cosy leather furniture and warm, natural colours. Booking ahead from to April is highly recommended. November Mountain House YHA YHA Mountain House & Cottages Backpackers ( and good breakfasts. Limited groceries and petrol are very expensive, so also no Christchurch or Greymouth. There’s Pass. in Arthur’s ATM comfortable units (some recently motel newrefurbished) and with beds. If you’re library a good DVD and snowed in there’s satellite TV. Freeview Information on all park tramps, including route guides for longer hut-lined tramps. It doesn’t can but reservations, or bookings onward make help with local accommodation and transport information. The centre screens a 17-minute video on the history of Arthur’s Pass. Purchase 9211; www.doc.govt.nz; SH73; , t $$ fi ow- , op- fl B&B Goat Goat Devils Chapel c infor- Harpers Harpers fi Walks in track (six ($2) details rst. et et fi fl and re, free-range fi , 8km south of Dobson Nature Dobson Nature ooding can make fl (one hour return), (adult/child $6/3) (adult/child

er 360-degree views of track (four to six hours ﬀ Avalanche Peak Avalanche (three hours return), and Harman Pass Harman . These tracks require previous (two days), and the longer and days), (two cult Klondyke Corner ﬃ public shelter public (30 minutes return)from No- is best Tracks Sights & Activities Eating & Sleeping

BealeySpur Arthurs Pass Village B&B Village Pass Arthurs 021-394 779; www.arthurspass.org.nz; d $100; 779; www.arthurspass.org.nz; 021-394 This former railway cottage is now a cosy This cottage former railway Day tramps o Day The for tramps, handy base town is a ) % Arthur’s Pass, where there is a toilet and the Pass, Arthur’s water must be boiled before drinking. mation on weather conditions see www. weather conditions see mation on softrock.co.nz. B&B, complete with open bacon and eggs bread for and homebaked and conversa- breakfast, and the company posite DOC, where there’s running water, a water, running posite DOC, where there’s sink, tables and toilets. Camping is currently free at W S ( 4 township at the Pass Camp within Arthur’s basic Arthur’s Pass National Park walks to scenic places including walks to scenic places 1 DOC is the small interfaith Near with wonderful views. of them oversnowcapped peaks, many is Mt Murchison 2000m; the highest There(2400m). are huts on the tramping tracks and several suitable for camp- areas best in the drier months is ing. Tramping to April). The lea (January Waterfall Punchbowl Basin Temple the climbs, views and wintertime skiing in Online see Park. National Pass Arthur’s speci For www.arthurspass.com. Alps from Christchurch. from Alps was road A coach on the but later completed a year, within a railway, demanded timber trade coal and duly completed in 1923. return) with expansive views of the Wai- makariri River valley and surrounding mountains. The pleasant Walk when the alpine vember to February ers are blooming. Recommended for trampers is the to eight hours return). Longer tramps with superb alpine backdrops include the Track Pass more di Pass tramping experience as the rivers dangerous and the weather is ex- tremely changeable; ask DOC 34 detailed topographical maps ($9) and hire Black Diamond Safaris SKIING locator beacons (highly recommended, $30). ( %03-302 1884; www.blackdiamondsafaris.co.nz; DOC also advises on the park’s often savagely hMay-Oct) Provides access to uncrowded changeable weather. Check conditions here and club ski fi elds by 4WD. Prices start at $150 fill out an intentions card before venturing out. for 4WD transport only, while $270 gets you Sign in again after returning to avoid a search transport, a lift pass, guiding and lunch. party being organised. LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND Skydiving NZ SKYDIVING 8 Getting There & Around ( %03-302 9143; www.skydivingnz.com; Pud- Arthur’s Pass sees buses travelling between ding Hill Airfi eld) Off ers tandem jumps from Christchurch (two hours) and Greymouth (2/12 3600m ($440). hours). Atomic Shuttles (www.atomictravel. co.nz) and West Coast Shuttle (%03-768 4 Sleeping 0028, 027 492 7488; www.westcoastshuttle. Some accommodation is closed in summer, co.nz) stop here; check their websites for cur- but the following are open year-round, with rent departure ponts in Christchurch. Bus tick- lower prices often available outside the ski ets are sold at the Arthur’s Pass Store. season. During the ski season, it pays to The TranzAlpine train runs between Christch- book well ahead, especially for budget ac- urch and Greymouth via Arthur’s Pass. commodation. The road over the pass was once winding and very steep, but the spectacular Otira viaduct has Alpernhorn Chalet HOSTEL $ removed many of the treacherous hairpin bends. ( %03-302 8779; www.alpenhorn.co.nz; 44 Allen CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY Mountain House Shuttle (%027 419 2354, St; dm $28, d $60-85; iW) This small, invit- 03-318 9258), based at Mountain House YHA ing home has a conservatory housing an Backpackers, provides transport to various indoor garden and a spa pool; a log fi re, trailheads. See the Trampers Shuttle tab on free internet and complimentary espresso www.trampers.co.nz for costs. coff ee seal the deal. Bedrooms are spacious and brightly-coloured, there’s lots of warm, natural wood, and an in-house refl exologist Methven and massage therapist are on hand if you’ve POP 1140 come a-cropper on the slopes. Methven is busiest in winter, when it fi lls up with snow-sports fans heading to nearby Beluga Lodge B&B $$ Mt Hutt. In summer, Methven town is a ( %03-302 8290; www.beluga.co.nz; 40 Allen St; laid-back option with quieter (and usually d incl breakfast $165-260; i) Highly relaxing cheaper) accommodation than elsewhere in B&B with king-sized beds, fl uff y bathrobes, the country, and a ‘what shall I do today?’ luscious bathrooms and private decks. Ex- range of warm-weather activities. treme privacy-seekers should consider the garden suite, with its own patio and barbe- 2 Activities cue. A four-bedroom cottage is also available Ask at the i-SITE about walking trails, horse ($275 to 375 per night; minimum three- riding, mountain biking, fi shing, scenic heli- night stay from June to October). copter fl ights and jet boating through the Glenthorne Station LODGE $$ nearby Rakaia Gorge. ( %03-318 5818, 0800 926 868; www.glenthorne. Aoraki Balloon Safaris BALLOONING co.nz; lodges per person $25-35, holiday house ( %03-302 8172, 0800 256 837; www.nzballooning. per person $50) This beautifully isolated co.nz; fl ights $385) Early morning combos of 25,800-hectare sheep station is 60km north- snowcapped peaks and a champagne break- west of Methven, on the northern shore of fast. Lake Coleridge. The high-country accommodation ranges from budget lodges to a Methven Heliskiing SKIING self-contained holiday house. Activities in- ( %03-302 8108; www.methvenheli.co.nz; Main clude 4WD tours, fi shing, horse riding and St; fi ve-run day trips $950; hMay-Oct) Trips in- walking. cluding guide service, safety equipment and lunch. Redwood Lodge LODGE $ ( %03-302 8964; www.snowboardnz.com; 3 Wayne Pl; s $58, d $58-130; iW) Turkish rugs and a bright decor give this family-friendly spot 35 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND CENTRALEATING CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURYDRINKING & CANTERBURY . $

ﬀ CINEMA 03-303 Good % features (

(Pattons Rd) (Pattons SUPERMARKET SUPERMARKET 9am-5pm 9am-5pm

h 7am-9pm) to Mt Som- ﬀ 03-303 9814; www. 9814; 03-303 h % ( is small and well- restaurant

Quirky cinema with an cinema with Quirky 03-302 8105; Main St) St) Main 8105; 03-302 03-302 8955; www. 8955; 03-302 0800 684 888, 03-302 , with studios and luxury restaurant 6.30pm-late Wed- 6.30pm-late restaurant % % % h ( ( ( Mt Somers Subalpine Walk- Mt Somers Holiday Park Holiday Somers Mt Stronechrubie Entertainment (17km, 10 hours) traverses the northern 10 hours) traverses (17km, Mt Somers General Store General Somers Mt Getting There & Around Information ) Books accommodation, skiing packages, 03-302 1957; www.cinemaparadiso.co.nz; Main www.cinemaparadiso.co.nz; 1957; 03-302 The At the highway turn-o At the highway

Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat in summer, up to three Shuttles operate from Methven to Mt Hutt ski i % eld in winter ($38). ers is ; There are other shorter walks in the area. 9719; www.mountsomers.co.nz; Hoods Rd; sites sites Hoods Rd; www.mountsomers.co.nz; 9719; $54-79) cabins $22, from 8106; www.methventravel.co.nz; 93 Main St; maintained. chalets. The intimate transport and activities. and transport Medical Centre Sat, noon-2pm Sun) Sat, times daily in winter) picks up from Christchurch hour).(one Christchurch airport departures are available. also ﬁ St; adult/child $14/10) St; adult/child 8 Travel Methven h Mt Somers just o Mt Somers is a small settlement SH72, Geraldine the main road between and The Mt Hutt. way face of Mt Somers, linking the popular picnic Creek. and Woolshed spots of Sharplin Falls formations, highlights include volcanic Trail deep river canyons rock drawings, Maori huts There are two and botanical diversity. and Woolshed on the tramp: Pinnacles Hut ($10 each). This route is subjectCreek Hut to sudden changes in weather and precau- the Mt Download tions should be taken. Somers track guide from www.doc.govt.nz. at tickets available and information are Hut the Supervalue Supermarket SupervalueSupermarket St; Mall & MacMillan The (cnr 3 Cinema Paradiso ( 8 Methven i-SITE arthouse skew. stronechrubie.co.nz; SH72; d $120-160, restaurant restaurant d $120-160, SH72; stronechrubie.co.nz; mains $33-38; wine and beer selection.wine and methveninfo.co.nz; 160 Main St;

) $ $ $ $$ $$ CAFE CAFE iW PUB CAFE CAFE LODGE LODGE HOSTEL HOSTEL ee. Grab a ff shing gear etc). fi A treasure trove A warm space with ) This YHA-associated ) . W fi iW families. to accommodate gured fi Drinking & Eating 03-302 8999; www.methvenaccommodation. 8999; 03-302 03-302 9575; www.bigtreelodge.co.nz; 25 www.bigtreelodge.co.nz; 9575; 03-302 % % lodge has appealing dining/living areas, alodge has appealing dining/living and outdoor spalarge kitchen and indoor breakfast and equip- include pools. Prices golf clubs, ment hire (bikes, co.nz; cnr McMillan & Bank Sts; dm/d $25/70, d $25/70, dm/d cnr McMillan & Bank Sts; co.nz; $80; with bathroom South Belt; dm $30-32, d/tw/tr $69/69/95; $69/69/95; d/tw/tr Belt; dm $30-32, South polished timber and leadlight windows. Serves breakfasts, good-value up all-day and soup, pasta, and sandwiches. platters in the day. over later Beer and wine takes also paid wi- There’s Blue Pub Blue Pub Main St; mains $15-30) (www.thebluepub.co.nz; Cafe 131 Cafe $10-20; (Main St; meals (38 McMillan St; meals $10-18) (38 McMillan St; meals 5 Primo Café Flashpackers Methven YHA YHA Methven Flashpackers ( Big Tree Lodge Lodge Big Tree ( with single, double, triple and quad roomsand quad triple double, single, with TV rooms with En suite of charm. plenty shared a huge privacyprovide there’s and TV kitchen. Larger lounge and can be rooms recon sunny table in the recently added courtyardsunny and kick-start with super-healthy your day granola. of retro Kiwiana, and the coolest partis that everything is for sale. Sandwiched in and around the souvenir teaspoons and Buzzy panini, and cakes, are tasty Bee bookends legendary bacon and egg sandwiches. You’ll best co also unearth Methven’s Drink at the bar crafted from a huge slab of or tuck into robust meals like native timber, sausage and mash or blue cod in the quieter restaurant. Challenge locals to a game of the pool or watch rugby on the big screen (most to nights from March and Saturday Friday is the Across the road, the Brown Pub June). rowdier choice of locals. Transformed from a one-time vicarage, this a one-time vicarage, from Transformed wood-trimmed has lovely, relaxed lodge heritage ambience. a comfy, bathrooms and Tucked Long-term are available. discounts a self- Studio, Tree just behind is Little up to four peoplecontained unit sleeping ($90/110 summer/winter). 36 excellent Canterbury lamb and local veni- region, including a replica of the aeroplane son and duck. Consider a DB&B package designed and fl own by local pioneer aviator (per two people $230 to $280). and inventor Richard Pearse. Many believe his mildly successful attempts at manned fl ight came before the Wright brothers fi rst SOUTH CANTERBURY fl ew in 1903. LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND SH1 heading south from Christchurch along F Aigantighe Art Gallery GALLERY the coast passes through the port city of Ti- (www.aigantighe.org; 49 Wai-iti Rd; h10am-4pm maru on its way to Dunedin, and carries a Tue-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun) One of the South lot of traffi c. The inland route along SH8 is Island’s largest public galleries, with a also busy, but showcases the stunning land- 900-piece collection of NZ and European scapes of the Mackenzie Country. Studded art from the past four centuries set up in a with the intense blue lakes of Tekapo and 1908 mansion, and adorned externally by Ohau, SH80 veers off at Twizel in the Mac- a sculpture garden (always open). The gal- kenzie Country to hug Lake Pukaki all the lery’s Gaelic name means ‘at home’ and is way to the magnifi cent heights of Aoraki/Mt pronounced ‘egg-and-tie’. Cook National Park.

F Botanic Gardens GARDENS (cnr King & Queen Sts; h8am-dusk) Established Timaru in 1864, Timaru’s Botanic Gardens feature CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY POP 26,750 ponds, a conservatory, and a notable collec- The port city of Timaru is a handy stopping- tion of roses and native tree ferns. The gar- off point halfway between Christchurch and dens are south of town; enter from Queen Dunedin. Many travellers prefer to kick on St. 85km further south to the smaller, more charming Oamaru, but a few good restaurants and good-value motels means Timaru F Trevor Griffiths Rose Garden GARDENS is worthy of a spot of travellers’ R&R. The (Caroline Bay; hopen daylight hours) Rose fans recently-opened Te Ana Maori Rock Art Cen- should visit the Trevor Griffi ths Rose Gar- tre is also of interest for travellers seeking to den, with more than a thousand romantic understand NZ’s indigenous Maori heritage. blooms set around arbours and water fea- The town’s name comes from the Maori tures. The fi nest display is from December name Te Maru, meaning the ‘Place of Shel- to February. ter’. No permanent settlement existed here Festivals & Events until 1839, when the Weller brothers from z Sydney set up a whaling station. The Caro- Christmas Carnival MUSIC line, a sailing ship that picked up whale oil, (www.carolinebay.org.nz; hDec 26-early Jan) gave the picturesque bay its name. There’s a fun, crowded Christmas Carnival with concerts and events on Caroline Bay, 1 Sights one of the few safe, sheltered beaches on the east coast. South Canterbury’s biggest annu- Te Ana Maori Rock Art Centre MUSEUM al summer bash celebrated its centenary in ( %0800 468 362; www.teana.co.nz; 2 George St; 2012, so they must be doing something right. adult/child/family $20/10/50; h10am-3pm) In- teresting showcase of the signifi cance of Timaru Festival of Roses CULTURAL Maori rock art to the Ngai Tahu tribe. Pas- (www.festivalofroses.co.nz; hNov) The Festival sionate Maori guides really bring to life the of Roses fi lls two blooming weeks of garden innovative exhibition, and also available tours, exhibitions and fl oral workshops. are three-hour excursions (departing 3pm, adult/child/family $125/50/250) around the 4 Sleeping surrounding region to see isolated rock art Panorama Motor Lodge MOTEL $$ in situ. Prior booking is essential for the ( %0800 103 310, 03-688 0097; www.panorama. tours. Entrance is via the i-SITE. net.nz; 52 The Bay Hill; d from $135; iW) Mod- South Canterbury Museum MUSEUM ern, well-appointed units with spa, sauna (www.timaru.govt.nz; Perth St; admission by dona- and gym. More greenery to soften the con- tion; h10am-4.30pm Tue-Fri, 1.30-4.30pm Sat & crete would be nice, but Caroline Bay Park Sun) Historical and natural artefacts of the 37 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND SOUTHEATING CHRISTCHURCH CANTERBURY& DRINKING & CANTERBURY $ $ $$ u- BAR PUB fl CAFE CAFE Hands Hands MODERN NZ NZ MODERN SUPERMARKET SUPERMARKET The coolest ) Activites, This funky li- This funky i ) 8.30am-5pm 8.30am-5pm noon-2pm Mon-Fri & Mon-Fri noon-2pm a treknitely make uenced standouts h fi fl iW h uenced dishes. It’s uenced dishes. It’s fl 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, to 7pm to 8am-9pm Mon-Fri, h 4pm-late Tue-Sat) 4pm-late 03-687 9997; www.south 9997; 03-687 Timaru’s take on sophisti- on take Timaru’s h % ( On the main road north. (www.intercity.co.nz) stops outside Getting There & Away Information ord St; mains $25-34; mains $25-34; St; ord 03-688 3981; www.gingerandgarlic.co.nz; 335 3981; www.gingerandgarlic.co.nz; 03-688 ff % downtown worthwhile. down, the best of Timaru’s pubs, and also down, the best of Timaru’s worth a visit to see the 19th-century Land- pub meals – burgers,ing Building. Hearty steak and seafood – and the full range of beers on tap de Speight’s Sat & Sun) Sat island.org.nz; 2 George St; information, and transport and accommodation accommodation and transport and information, bookings. Inside is Ana the Maori Te Rock Art Centre. Mon-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun; cated food is showcased at this long-running at this is showcased cated food Asian-in local favourite. include roasted prawn and sesame toast, and prawn include roasted a with marinated chicken and tandoori-style Thelaksa cream. dishes menu also includes Eastern in and Middle with a European ence. Try the garlic-crusted Canterbury the garlic-crusted lamb ence. Try Desserts and pumpkin salad. with a walnut mandarin-infused crème include a mighty brûlée. spot in town is concealed in an arcade show- spot in town is concealed and interesting most funky casing Timaru’s shopping. Look forward to cannily mixed of local and in- cocktails and a stellar array into shared antipas- ternational beers. Tuck ($29) and gourmet pizzas ($12 toto platters zone.25). A guaranteed bogan-free Sta 8 InterCity the train station, with buses to Christchurch (2½ (Station St; meals $10-20; $10-20; St; meals (Station Supermarket Save Pak’n Sts; & Evans Ranui (cnr 8 Timaru i-SITE Speight’s Ale House Speight’s St) 2 George (www.timarualehouse.co.nz; Café Off the Rail Ginger & Garlic & Garlic Ginger ( & Dine Wine Petite Arcade; (18 Royal 5-10pm Mon-Sat) 5-10pm censed cafe is at the train station. Fire up crammed with ’70sthe jukebox tunes, and goodies and more con- sample Kiwi baked temporary globally in open late for drinks and occasional live mu- night. sic on Saturday

$ $ $ $$ $$ er ff CAFE CAFE MOTEL MOTEL Busy ) MOTEL MOTEL closed Sun) closed t duck leg fi iW HOLIDAY PARK PARK HOLIDAY RESTAURANT RESTAURANT h avours. Pair a Pair avours. fl . ff ne if you’re transiting north ne if you’re fi ers sandwiches, bagels and Parkland site with excellent Parkland ff ee and cruisy Kiwi dub is al- ee and cruisy Kiwi ) ff iW ee and cake, completeee and cake, with views of ff Drinking & Eating Following a recent refurbishment a Following ) Cool and cosmopolitan in red and black, 0800 242 121, 03-684 7690; www.timaruholi 7690; 03-684 121, 0800 242 03-684 5067; www.anchormotel.co.nz; 42 Evans 42 Evans www.anchormotel.co.nz; 5067; 03-684 03-688 1886, 0800 929 828; www.baywatchti 0800 929 1886, 03-688 % % % and Asian slaw with a spicyand Asian Central Otago slaw a good spot meals it’s pinot gris. Between for co Caroline Bay. Kiwi craft beer with shared plates of kofta or felafel ($12.50), or partner con Fusion’s modern cuisine modern channels both Fusion’s and Asian Mediterranean and with energetic new management, the complex Anchor is a good-valuesprawling spot a shortish from Caroline Bay. walk spot- but kept Rooms and dorms are simple, less, and just or south. daypark.co.nz; 154a Selwyn St; sites from $34, units $34, from St; sites 154a Selwyn daypark.co.nz; $65-120; St; backpackers dm/d $25/60, motels s/d $49/99; s/d motels $25/60, dm/d St; backpackers maru.co.nz; 7 Evans St; d $130-145; St; d $130-145; 7 Evans maru.co.nz; (64 Bay Hill; lunch mains $17-20, dinner mains $26- Hill; lunch mains $17-20, (64 Bay 30) Fusion Fusion 5 Arthur St Café $15-18; & meals Arthur St; snacks (8 Timaru Top 10 Holiday Park Park Holiday 10 Top Timaru ( ( iW Anchor Motel and Anchor Motel Timaru Backpackers Baywatch Motor Lodge Lodge Motor Baywatch ( and Bay Hill’s cafes are a short walk away. a short are cafes away. walk Hill’s Bay and are particularly units spacious. Family amenities and a golf course next door that’s amenities and a golf course next door that’s included in your park tari Evans St is wall-to-wall motels, but one of St is wall-to-wall Evans is main drag along Timaru’s the best options here o Lodge. Units Motor the Baywatch fantastic bay views, win- and double-glazed fantastic bay from worst of the road noise dows mask the worth a room at asking for it’s SH1, though light sleeper. a the back if you’re ways a good way to ease into the day. Decked to ease into the day. a good way ways out with retro furniture and tinged with a funki- green and sustainable ethic, Timaru’s est eatery o breakfasts. There’s world-famous-in-Timaru also occasional live music with an alternative and folkie spin. Excellent co 38

MT COOK SALMON FARM

Some 15km west of Lake Tekapo along SH8 is the signposted turn-off to the Mt Cook Salmon Farm (www.mtcookaplinesalmon.com; Canal Rd; adult/child $2/free), the highest salmon farm on the planet. The farm, 12km from the turn-off , operates in a hydroelectric LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND canal system; a scenic drive along the canal has popular fi shing spots and enjoys great views of Mt Cook. Stop at the farm to feed the fi sh, or pick up something smoked or fresh for dinner. The sashimi ($15) is the freshest you’ll ever have, guaranteed.

hours), Oamaru (one hour), and Dunedin (three The mind-bending Medieval Mosaic hours). (www.1066.co.nz; 10 Wilson St; admission free; Atomic Shuttles (www.atomictravel.co.nz) h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat-Sun, closed stop in Timaru en route to Christchurch and Aug) is ideal for fans of medieval history and Dunedin. Departs Timaru from the i-SITE. word games and clever-clogs mathematics There are no direct buses from Timaru to Lake types. The world’s biggest woollen jersey is Tekapo and Mt Cook – you’ll need to fi rst get to also on display. Geraldine or Fairlie to catch buses to the Mac- The Geraldine i-SITE (%03-693 1006; kenzie Country. Ask at the i-SITE. www.gogeraldine.co.nz; cnr Talbot & Cox Sts; h8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat & Sun) has CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY brochures detailing the gardens and galler- Inland & Mackenzie ies in town, and can book rural B&Bs and Country farmstays. Heading to Queenstown and the south- 4 Sleeping ern lakes from Christchurch means a turn Scenic Route Motor Lodge MOTEL $$ off SH1 onto SH79, a scenic route towards ( %0800 723 643; www.motelscenicroute.co.nz; 28 the high country and the Aoraki/Mt Cook Waihi Terrace; d $125-160; iW) This spacious National Park’s eastern foothills. The road motel is built in early-settler style, but the passes through Geraldine and Fairlie before modern studios include double-glazing, fl at- joining SH8, which heads over Burkes Pass screen TVs and broadband internet. Larger to the blue intensity of Lake Tekapo. studios have spa baths. You’ll fi nd Scenic The expansive high ground from which Route at the northern end of town. the scenic peaks of Aoraki/Mt Cook Na- tional Park escalate is known as Mackenzie Rawhiti House HOSTEL $ Country, after the legendary James ‘Jock’ ( %03-693 8252; www.rawhitihouse.co.nz; 27 Hewl- Mackenzie, who ran his stolen fl ocks in this ings St; dm/s/d/tr $32/48/72; iW) This former then-uninhabited region in the 1840s. When maternity hospital is now a sunny and spa- he was fi nally caught, other settlers realised cious budget accommodation with solar the potential of the land and followed in his electricity and colourfully furnished rooms. footsteps. The fi rst people to traverse the Mountain bikes are available, and guests Mackenzie were the Maori, trekking from rave about the comfy beds. It’s above town Banks Peninsula to Otago hundreds of years off Peel St. If you ask them when you book, ago. they’ll usually pick you up from the bus stop. See www.mtcooknz.com and www.mac kenziewinter.co.nz for more information. Geraldine Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $ ( %03-693 8147; www.geraldineholidaypark.co.nz; GERALDINE 39 Hislop St; unpowered/powered sites $24/26, POP 2210 cabins & units $45-105; i) This holiday park Geraldine has a country-village atmosphere is set amid well-established trees across with pretty private gardens and an active the road from a grassy oval. Besides budget arts scene. cabins and self-contained units, there’s a TV The Vintage Car & Machinery Museum room and playground. (178 Talbot St; adult/child $8/free; h10am-4pm mid-Sep–early Jun) has more than 30 vintage 5 Eating and veteran cars from as far back as 1907. Four Peaks Plaza (cnr Talbot & Cox Sts; h9am- There’s also a rare 1929 Spartan biplane. 5pm) has a bakery, cafes and the Talbot Forest cheese shop. Also here is Barker’s 39 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND SOUTH8 CHRISTCHURCH CANTERBURY & CANTERBURY

(30 (1½ lodge ne ex- ﬁ in the lush goes white- atable kayaks ﬂ DOC camping camping DOC (two hours re- hours (two Emily Falls 0800 251 251, 03-696 03-696 0800 251 251, Big Tree Walk Big Tree (one hour return). 027 246 4423, 03-696 03-696 4423, 246 027 Peel Forest Lodge Oct-Apr) % % ( h er even if you’re not er even if you’re (

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(unpowered sites/dm/d (unpowered sites/dm/d Rata Falls eman, kereru (NZ pigeon),eman, kereru ﬂ cent podocarp forest consists ﬁ 03-696 3567; www.peelforest.co.nz; www.peelforest.co.nz; 3567; 03-696 Acland Falls % (

, a self-contained log-cabin-style lodge, a self-contained log-cabin-style 03-696 3703; www.peelforestlodge.co.nz; d www.peelforestlodge.co.nz; 3703; 03-696 The magni More upmarket is More

Rangitata Rafts Horse trekking Horse

% accommodation $20/25/60). Rafting trips can be joined from either the Rangitata lodge ($198) or from Christchurch ($218 including return transport), and include hot showers and a barbecue. Count on three hours on the river. A less frantic option for families is a Family on the Grade $165/120) trip (adult/child Fun In II Lower Rangitata River. are used, and you’ll hours around two have on the river followed by a meal at the lodge. ample of totara on the of totara, kahikatea and matai. One forest is also on o at the lodge. Longer treksstaying multiday ($982 to $1623) and accommodation and horse-trekking packages ($550) are available Lodge. Forest in conjunction with Peel beside the Rangitata River, about 3km be- about River, beside the Rangitata two- and equipped with basic yond the store to four-berth showers, a kitchen, cabins, laundry phone. Check and card the in at bike about renting a mountain store and ask are bikes Tandem hour/day). ($15/35 per also available takeaway food, and has internet has and food, The access. takeaway a cosy & Bar is Cafe Mt Peel Little attached The and beers. steaks, burgers spot for store pleasant the also manages deep in the forest. Bring your own fooddeep in the forest. Bring along for leisurely barbecues; meals are per person (breakfast/dinner also available $25/50) if you don’t want to cook. The owners don’t on site, so you’ll live need to book ahead. $350) ( 3703; www.peelforesthorsetrekking.co.nz; 1hr/2hr/ www.peelforesthorsetrekking.co.nz; 3703; $55/110/220/380) day half-day/full ground $22) per person cabins person, $12 per from sites 3534; www.rafts.co.nz; 3534; www.rafts.co.nz; which water rafting River, on the Rangitata contains exhilarating The Grade V rapids. 13km past the base is at Mt Peel, company’s camping ground, and includes budget turn) and minutes return) has a circumference of 9m and is over 1000 years old. Local bird life includes the ri There are bellbird, fantail and grey warbler. also trails to waterfalls: hours return),

, $ $ $$ $$ Ere- 9am- CAFE CAFE PUB CINEMA erent ﬀ h SWEETS SWEETS Down . RESTAURANT RESTAURANT ce is this de- ﬃ 9am-4pm) This quirky local This quirky h Peel Forest Store Geraldine’s best pub Geraldine’s The ritziest place in (a native NZ pepper). 9.30am-12.30pm) h ( , a fruit-products, a empo- (www.prenzelofgeraldine.co.nz)

, the run of English writer horopito For a quality sugar rush, visit a quality For Peel Forest Park: Informa- Track most impor- SH72), is among NZ’s ff Prenzel ee, hot chocolate and cake. ff 5pm-9pm Tue-Sat) ) in the 1860s. brochure ($1) from , which also stocks petrol, groceries and Entertainment lo pastry, while the kids can go crazy – lo pastry, h 03-696 3567; www.peelforest.co.nz; www.peelforest.co.nz; 3567; 03-696 fi Get the ering regular tastings of luscious fruit of luscious regular tastings ering ff % tion with a small, well-behaved ‘c’, please – in the ‘c’, with a small, well-behaved sweet, postage-stamp-sized playground. town features robust meals with a cosmo- town features robust meals the Canterbury lamb rump politan spin. Try dusted with Gourmet and a few pizzas or shared platters alternatives. local beers are more informal Coco for handmade choccies, plus designer teas, co rium selling (and sampling) kiwifruit wines,sampling) kiwifruit (and rium selling Look and jams. sauces, smoothies juices, out also for ( PEEL PEEL FOREST 22km north of Geraldine (sign- Forest, Peel posted o tant indigenous podocarp (conifer) forests. station leads to A road from nearby Mt Peel Mesopotamia whon Samuel Butler (author of the satire 3 Cinema Geraldine $12/8) St; adult/child (Talbot Coco St) Talbot (10 Village Inn Village St; mains $15-24) Talbot (41 Taste St; mains $28- Talbot 7 (www.tasterestaurant.co.nz; 34; farmers market farmers Verde Cafe St; mains $10-18; Talbot (45 (www.barkers.co.nz) 6pm Mon-Thu, to 7pm Fri & Sat, 10am-5.30pm 10am-5.30pm & Sat, 7pm Fri to 6pm Mon-Thu, Sun) o during summer Saturday schnapps. Every into organic actionthe town kicks with a cinema has old sofas and features a mix of and arthouse surpris- favourites Hollywood usually also occasional live music, es. There’s with a folk, blues or country spin. meals are available for alfresco dining in meals are available Indecisive the garden bar at the Village Inn. struggle with the 13 di may travellers beers on tap. the lane beside the old post o the lane beside will appre- lightful garden cafe. Grown-ups options such as salmon lunch ciate the tasty in 40 If you can’t get enough of NZ’s rivers, con- a former Andrew Carnegie library opened sider a longer three-day rafting expedition better than ever in 2012. Look forward to with Hidden Valleys (%03-696 3560; www. fresh, award-winning local food such as hiddenvalleys.co.nz; from $200; hSep-May). See roasted Mackenzie rack of lamb or blue their website for other rafting journeys ex- cod with a citrus butter. There’s also a more ploring the most exciting and remote of the casual all-day menu featuring pasta, salads

LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND South Island’s rivers. One-day rafting trips and soups. on the Rangitata River are also available. Whisk & Page CAFE $ FAIRLIE (49 Mt Cook Rd; coff ee & cake $5-7; hclosed Sat) POP 725 Scones, chocolate brownies and damn fi ne Fairlie is often described as ‘the gateway to coff ee partner with a retro bookshop. You’ll the Mackenzie’. To the west the landscape probably recognise a few of the iconic tomes changes as the road ascends Burkes Pass to from your childhood, and there’s also a good the open spaces of Mackenzie Country. It’s selection of NZ-themed books. a great place to stop for lunch. Make time to also stroll around the Fairlie Heritage LAKE TEKAPO Museum (www.fairlieheritagemuseum.co.nz; Mt POP 315 At the southern end of its namesake lake, Cook Rd; h9am-5pm), packed full of fascinating mementos of NZ rural life. this town has unobstructed views across tur- The Fairlie visitor information centre quoise water and a backdrop of rolling hills and mountains.

CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY (%03-685 8496; www.fairlie.co.nz; Allandale St; Lake Tekapo is a popular stop on tours of h10am-4pm) can provide information on nearby mountain biking tracks. There’s the Southern Alps, with buses bound for Mt skiing 29km northwest at Fox Peak in Cook and Queenstown allowing passengers the Two Thumb Range. Mt Dobson, 26km pop in for a quick ice cream or coﬀ ee. Rather northwest of Fairlie, is in a 3km-wide basin. than rushing on, it’s actually worth staying to experience the region’s glorious night sky 4 Sleeping & Eating from atop nearby Mt John. Fairlie Gateway Top 10 Sights & Activities Holiday Park HOLIDAY PARK $ 1 Popular walks include the track to the sum- ( %03-685 8375, 0800 324 754; www.fairlietop10. co.nz; 10 Allandale Rd; sites from $40, units $60- mit of Mt John (three hours return), accessible from just beyond the camping ground. 129; iW) Tranquil, creek-side park that’s perfect for families, with mini-golf and a From there, continue on to Alexandrina and large playground for the kids. Fishing gear McGregor Lakes, making it an all-day walk. is for hire. Options range from campsites to Other walks are detailed in the brochure motel units. Lake Tekapo Walkway ($1). Mountain bikes can be hired (per hour/half-day $10/25) Pinewood Motels MOTEL $$ from Lakefront Backpackers Lodge and the ( %0800 858 599, 03-685 8599; www.pinewood Lake Tekapo YHA. motels.co.nz; 25-27 Mt Cook Rd; d $99-115; W) In winter, Lake Tekapo is a base for Comfortable, good-value and self-contained downhill skiing at Mt Dobson or Round units, recently redecorated, and with Sky TV Hill and cross-country skiing on the Two and new ﬂ at-screen TVs. Thumb Range.

Eat Deli & Bar CAFE $$ Church of the Good Shepherd CHURCH (www.eatdeliandbar.co.nz; 76 Main St; mains $10- ( h9am-5pm) The lakeside Church of the 20; h8am-5pm Tue-Sun; i) Family-friendly, Good Shepherd was built of stone and oak with a kids’ play area, Eat also drags in in 1935, and is a ﬁ rm favourite for weddings. grown-ups with its excellent coﬀ ee and Nearby is a statue of a collie dog, a tribute counter food, often with a subtle Asian spin. to the sheepdogs that helped develop the More robust appetites should go for a steak Mackenzie Country. It’s at its scenic best be- sandwich ($19). There’s also beer, wine, and fore and after the tour buses, so come early complimentary internet access. morning or late afternoon.

Old Library Café CAFE $$ Earth & Sky ASTRONOMY TOURS (6 Allandale Rd; dinner mains $18-35; i) Dam- ( %03-680 6960; www.earthandskynz.com; star- aged in a fi re in 2011, this cafe/restaurant in gazing adult/child $105/60) Thanks to clear 41 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND SOUTH8 CHRISTCHURCH CANTERBURY & CANTERBURY $ $ $$ $$ eld fi B&B This ) HOSTEL HOSTEL HOSTEL An im- ) iW SCENIC FLIGHTS SCENIC HOLIDAY PARK PARK HOLIDAY iW This hostel fare in the comfy ) fi i ve options, from a fi ight goes from Glen- from goes ight ights include ice ights fl fl Has a pretty and peaceful a pretty Has ) Has Has iW ight ($195) to a 70-minuteight ($195) to a trip fl Sleeping 03-680 6227; www.laketekapo-accommodation. 6227; 03-680 0800 853 853; www.laketekapo 6825, 03-680 03-680 6669; www.glacierrock.co.nz; 35 Lochin- www.glacierrock.co.nz; 6669; 03-680 www.tailor-made-backpackers. 6700; 03-680 0800 359 835, 03-680 6229; www.tekapoheli 03-680 835, 0800 359 % % % % % landings and viewslandings and of Mt Cook. 25-minute Josef and Franz Cook and Fox taking in Mt All Glaciers ($500). lakeside locale, plus everythinglakeside from basic cabins to motel units with full kitchens and chalets Newer with shared come TV. Sky picnic tables, barbecuesspectacular and vistas. lake architecturallydoubles as designed home an – or maybe An artist’s an art gallery. – eye is evidentin the spacious architect’s and airy Breakfast is served rooms. in sunny rooms with huge picture windows. co.nz; Lakeside Dr; dm/d $28/80; dm/d Dr; Lakeside co.nz; $30, from sites Dr; Lakeside -accommodation.co.nz; $60-150; units ver Ave; d incl breakfast $195-250; d incl breakfast Ave; ver d with/ s $60, dm $29-33, Cres; Aorangi 9-11 co.nz; $80/70; without bathroom copters.co.nz; SH8) copters.co.nz; Lakefront Backpackers Lodge Lodge Backpackers Lakefront ( Motels Tekapo Lake Park & Holiday ( ( Backpackers Tailor-Made-Tekapo ( Tekapo Helicopters Helicopters Tekapo ( 4 streets Drive and the surrounding Hamilton other goodin the eastern part of town have B&Bs. and Breakfast Bed Glacier Rock Beaumont. A similar A similar Beaumont. (adult/ prices but with higher Park, tanner child $375/265). vours beds rather than bunks and is spread over a pair of well-tended houses on a from the main road. peaceful street away The interior is spick and span and there’s a barbecue-equipped garden complete with well-established trees, lovely birdsong and a playground. children’s place owned by the nearbypressive lakeside park (about 1km from the town- holiday ship). Relax by the open in the sensational viewslounge area or take from the front deck. Rooms are modern and busesbathrooms are top-notch. Backpacker stop by so it can get social. a tad cial fi Fish- DAY SPA DAY Does BOAT TOUR BOAT HORSE RIDING HORSE SNOW SPORTS SNOW nest spots fi SCENIC FLIGHTS SCENIC Organises ights over Mt At the western fl Open all year grapher Fraser Gunn grapher Fraser 10am-9pm) per hour) shing $60-80 fi h Tours ee and cake, or a snack and somethingee and cake, 03-680 6880; www.airsafaris.co.nz; SH8) 6880; www.airsafaris.co.nz; 03-680 0800 628 269; www.maht.co.nz; 1/2hr ride www.maht.co.nz; 0800 628 269; 027 479 7675; www.cruisetekapo.co.nz; cruises www.cruisetekapo.co.nz; 7675; 479 027 0800 353 8283; www.alpinesprings.co.nz; Lake- 0800 353 8283; www.alpinesprings.co.nz; 0800 353 8283; www.alpinesprings.co.nz; 0800 353 8283; www.alpinesprings.co.nz; ff 10am-9pm, cafe 10am-7pm) cafe 10am-9pm, % % % % % on the planeton the Depar- explore to the heavens. you book. when so check vary, ture times their tours visitors can use On some night to delve into astrophotogra- own cameras photo phy with local daytime Forty-minute (www.laketekapo.cc). University $50/25) of the tours (adult/child of Canterbury observatory also operate on 10am to 4pm.demand from $50/90, half-/full day $140/260) day half-/full $50/90, per person $40-125, $40-125, per person side Dr; skating adult/child $16/12, snow-tubing snow-tubing $16/12, adult/child skating side Dr; $19/15; adult/child hot pools adult/child $18/10, cafe snacks $5-10; $5-10; snacks cafe $18/10, hot pools adult/child slope. edge of the lake, the Lake Tekapo Winter the Lake Tekapo edge of the lake, Alpine Springs complex at the features Park a year-round skating rink and a winter mini-snow slope for gentle snow-tubing ac- intion. Loads-of-fun tubing is even available summer on a specially-constructed arti Cook and its glaciers (adult/child $325/215), Cook and its glaciers (adult/child over the Glacier, taking you up the Tasman Gla- Josef and Franz upper part of the Fox and Elie de ciers, and by Mts Cook, Tasman 50-minute ‘Grand Traverse’ 50-minute ‘Grand Traverse’ T Air Safaris ( ( Mackenzie Alpine Mackenzie Trekking Horse Cruise Tekapo Tekapo Cruise ( Lake Tekapo Winter Winter Park Tekapo Lake ( h Alpine Springs & Spa & Spa Alpine Springs ( skies and its distance from any main towns, any from its distance and skies stargazing, top-notch has and Lake Tekapo as one of the is known the area high-country equine explorations. Overnight camping trips ($350) are also available. ing and lake cruises from 25 minutes to two cruises from 25 minutes ing and lake hours round, with hot pools scattered amid quick- amid round, with hot pools scattered pools and Private ly growing native trees. are also available, saunas ($26 per hour) and spa packages start at $120. ‘Skate and at the ad- available Soak’ combo deals are good cafe for a There’s jacent Winter Park. co stronger. 42 Peppers Bluewater Resort MOTEL $$ adventuring. Even if you’re dining some- ( %0800 275 373; www.peppers.co.nz; SH8; from where else, pop in for a Monteiths Summer $140; W) A sprawling resort arrayed around Ale or glass of sauvignon blanc. rocky pools and tussocky gardens. Rooms are chic and modern – if sometimes on Run 77 CAFE $ the small side – but last-minute online dis- (SH8; mains $10-24) Relax on chunky wooden furniture and enjoy Tekapo’s good coff ee, or

LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND counts make this a place worth considering. sandwiches, burgers and pies made from Lake Tekapo YHA HOSTEL $ local salmon and organic, free-range beef ( %03-680 6857; www.yha.co.nz; 3 Simpson Lane; and venison from the owners’s high country dm $37-78, d/tw $96; iW) Friendly, well- spread (the real Run 77). Soups, salads and equipped little place with a living room anitipasto platters tick both the healthy and adorned with open fi replaces, a piano and tasty boxes. outstanding views across the lake to the mountains beyond. Four Square Supermarket SUPERMARKET (SH8) Located beside a handy bakery. 5 Eating The dining scene at Lake Tekapo has tra- 8 Information ditionally been lacklustre, but a few recent Lake Tekapo i-SITE (%03-680 6579; www. openings have improved culinary choices. laketekapountouched.co.nz; Godley Hotel, SH8; h9am-6pm) Accommodation, activites and transport information CAFE $ CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY o Astro Café (Mt John Observatory; coff ee & cake $4-8, snacks $7- 8 Getting There & Away 12) This glass-walled pavilion atop Mt John Southbound services to Queenstown (four has spectacular 360-degree views across the hours) and Wanaka (three hours via Tarras), entire Mackenzie Basin – quite possibly one and northbound services to Christchurch (four of the planet’s best locations for a cafe. Tuck hours), are off ered by Atomic Shuttles (www. into bagels with local Aoraki salmon, or atomictravel.co.nz), InterCity (www.intercity. fresh ham-off -the-bone sandwiches; the cof- co.nz) and Southern Link Coaches (%0508 458 835; www.southernlinkcoaches.co.nz). fee and cake is pretty good, too. After dark, Astro becomes the location for astrophotog- Cook Connection (%0800 266 526; www. cookconnect.co.nz) operates to Mt Cook (two raphy with local photographer Fraser Gunn. hours) and Twizel (one hour). Travel can be over more than one day. Kohan JAPANESE $$ (SH8; lunch $10-16, dinner $22-35) The Japanese LAKE PUKAKI food at Kohan is among the South Island’s On the southern shore of Lake Pukaki, 45km best, and with a salmon farm just up the southwest of Lake Tekapo and 2km north- road, you know the sashimi is ultrafresh. east of the turn-off to Mt Cook, is the Lake Lunch specials are good value, and you Pukaki visitor information centre (%03- should defi nitely leave room for their hand- 435 3280; www.mtcooknz.com; SH8; h9am-6pm made green-tea ice-cream. Oct-Apr, 10am-4pm May-Sep). The real highlight Pepe’s ITALIAN $$ here is the sterling lookout, which on a (SH8; meals $15-30; h6pm-late) With large clear day gives a picture-perfect view of Mt booths and walls decorated with skiing par- Cook and its surrounding peaks, with the ul- aphernalia, the rustic Pepe’s is a cosy little trablue lake in the foreground. place, with good pizza and pasta. Some of TWIZEL the names are a bit naff (Vinnie’s Venison or POP 1015 Spag Bol Bada Bing, anyone?), but the dish- It wasn’t long ago that New Zealanders ma- es are tasty, and later at night it becomes a ligned the town of Twizel, just south of Lake good spot for a few quiet drinks. Pukaki. The town was built in 1968 to service construction of the nearby hydroelectric Mackenzie’s Bar & Grill PUB $$ power station, and was due to be abandoned (SH8; mains $22-34) Serving up interesting in 1984 when the construction project was spins on steak, chicken and seafood, every- completed. Now the town’s residents are thing at Mackenzie’s comes with a side order having the last laugh as new lakeside sub- of stellar lake and mountain views. Robust divisions are built to take advantage of the dishes like lamb shanks and beef Wellington area’s relaxed lakes-and-mountains lifestyle. are the perfect response to an active day’s Accommodation and eating options are bet- 43 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND SOUTH8 CHRISTCHURCH CANTERBURY & CANTERBURY

$ ) $$ $$ $$$ W B&B B&B MOTEL MOTEL ne fi This ru- HOLIDAY PARK PARK HOLIDAY red outdoor fi Surrounded by lled grounds and ) fi ights last from 25 fl iW closed Jun-Aug) closed ower- fl h ers green, ers ff our’ (sediment) in the water. This This in the water. (sediment) our’ O fl ) Sleeping 0800 629 999, 03-435 0785; www.mountain 0785; 03-435 0800 629 999, 03-435 0144; www.matukalodge.co.nz; Old www.matukalodge.co.nz; 0144; 03-435 SH8; cottages 0199; www.omahau.co.nz; 03-435 03-435 0507; www.parklandstwizel.co.nz; 122 www.parklandstwizel.co.nz; 0507; 03-435 iW % % % % accommodation in a colourfully refurbished Reader-recommended place with friendly well-equipped and self- owners and cosy, contained A-frame chalets. The cheapest units are studios, but there are a number set-ups for larger groups orof two-bedroom lodge also a small, laid-back families. There’s perfect for backpackers. that’s kaki aiport. Sightseeing minutes ($230) to 60 minutes ($535) andminutes ($230) to 60 minutes include a snow landing. chalets.co.nz; Wairepo Rd; dm $25, d $95-135; d $95-135; dm $25, Rd; Wairepo chalets.co.nz; Station Rd; d $465-535; Rd; Station B&B d $165; d $135, Parklands Alpine Parklands Park Tourist ( farmland and mountain scenery, this luxury scenery, farmland and mountain with antiquesB&B blends modern design on the owners’and Oriental rugs sourced A librarytravels. of well-thumbed Lonely Planet guides is testament to their wander- lust, so look forward to interesting chats Breakfast oftenover pre-dinner drinks. in- just up the road atcludes salmon smoked Aoraki Smokehouse. the Twizel Motels Mountain Chalet ( Matuka Lodge Lodge Matuka ( Downs Omahau ( 4 bath ($20). Don’t make the mistake of book- the mistake bath ($20). Don’t make ing for only one night. ral homestead 2km north of Twizel has two ral homestead 2km north of Twizel sleeping up to self-contained cottages cosy, and a B&B lodge with sparkling, mod- four, ern rooms and a view-enhanced deck look- ing out on the Ben Ohau Range. An essential experience is a moonlit, wood- Mackenzie Dr; sites from $36, dm $30, units $90-150 $90-150 units dm $30, $36, from sites Dr; Mackenzie ;

9.30am & 9.30am GUIDED TOUR GUIDED h (black stilt SCENIC FLIGHTS SCENIC replica gear. replica gear. WILDLIFE RESERVE WILDLIFE 9am-6pm Mon- ng. in Fishing ﬁ y over the Mt h ﬂ kaki Lord of the Rings the of Lord tour (adult/child tour (adult/child 03-435 0066; www. 03-435 is right in town, LOTR ) % ( i

LOTR The rare eld in the fi our was created when the lake’s basin was gouged out by a stony-bottomed a stony-bottomed out by gouged was basin when the lake’s created our was fl Helicopter Line Helicopter Guided, small-group tours around Twizel i-SITE ll up with petrol in Twizel before head- petrolll up with in Twizel fi Activities 0800 650 652, 03-435 0370; www.helicopter. 0370; 03-435 0800 650 652, 03-435 3124; adult/child $15/7; $15/7; adult/child 3124; 03-435 0800 213 868, 03-435 0114; www.discovery 0114; 03-435 868, 0800 213 The glacier moving across the land’s surface, with the rock-on-rock action grinding out with the rock-on-rock surface, the land’s across glacier moving gives This sediment in the glacial melt water. ended up being suspended that particles the brilliant hence down, sunlight beaming the refracts and quality a milky the water colour. The blazing turquoise colour of Lake Pukaki, a characteristic it shares with other regional regional other with it shares a characteristic Pukaki, Lake of colour turquoise The blazing ‘rock is due to Tekapo, as Lake such water of bodies BLUE CRUSH BLUE so-called so-called % % % twizel.info; Twizel Events Centre; Centre; Events Twizel twizel.info; 4.30pm late Oct-Apr) late 4.30pm Cook region, departing from the Lake Pu- and there’s an ATM in the main shopping in the an ATM and there’s at Mt Cook or no ATM there’s area. Note should Self-drive travellers Lake Tekapo. also ing to Mt Cook. co.nz; SH8) co.nz; tours.co.nz) Fri & noon-3pm Sat-Sun; Sat-Sun; & noon-3pm Fri bird) is found only in NZ, and a breeding program is aiming to increase the popula- Just tion at the Ahuriri Conservation Park. gives the Kaki Visitor Hide south of Twizel, you a close-up look at these elusive birds. Bookings are essential for the one-hour tour. i-SITE (you’ll need your Book at the Twizel own transport). Helicopter Line Helicopter ( Kaki Visitor Visitor Kaki Hide ( local rivers, canals and lakes is also big busi- local rivers, canals and lakes ness and there are a number of guides in the region. Ask at the i-SITE. Discovery Tours Tours Discovery ( 2 is popular forLake Ruataniwha Nearby rowing, windsur boating and ter value in Twizel compared to Mt Cook, compared to ter value in Twizel waking up right inbut you will be forgoing the mountains. the Mackenzie Country, including hiking Country, the Mackenzie and helibiking,plus a popular two-hour to the site of the $75/40) tour (adult/child battle Pelennor A shorter one-hour $55/30) is also available. movies – you can even get to charge around a mad thing wearing like 44 maternity hospital. There are a few basic cab- hour) and Lake Tekapo (one hour). Travel can be ins and room for tents and campervans; the over more than one day. modern, self-contained cottages are particu- Naked Bus (www.nakedbus.com) travel to larly good value. Christchurch and Queenstown/Wanaka.

High Country LAKE OHAU & OHAU FORESTS Lodge & Backpackers HOSTEL $ Lake Ohau Lodge LODGE $$ LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND ( %03-435 0671; www.highcountrylodge.co.nz; Mac- ( %03-438 9885; www.ohau.co.nz; Lake Ohau Rd; kenzie Dr; dm $29-35, d $50-90, units $125-155; s $99-175, d $105-200) Lake Ohau Lodge is iW) This sprawling place used to be a basic idyllically sited on the western shore of the hostel for construction workers, and is now rower-friendly Lake Ohau, 42km west of trimmed with colourful curtains and bright Twizel. Prices listed are for accommodation bed linen. Beyond the dorms and the double only (everything from backpacker-style to rooms, a few standalone motel units also see upmarket rooms with deck and mountain your Kiwi pesos going a long way. views). DB&B packages are good value. 5 Eating & Drinking Poppies Cafe CAFE $$ Aoraki/Mt Cook National (www.poppiescafe.com; 1 Benmore Pl; breakfast/ lunch mains $9-18, dinner mains $24-32) Lunch Park showcases lighter meals like salmon fi lo par- The spectacular 700-sq-km Aoraki/Mt cels, while dinner is a more formal experi- Cook National Park (www.doc.govt.nz/parks CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY ence with lamb rump or an Asian-style trio -and-recreation/national-parks/aoraki-mount of duck; excellent pizzas ($18 to 26) occupy -cook), along with Fiordland, Aspiring and a tasty middle ground. Where possible, or- Westland National Parks, incorporates the ganic and locally sourced produce is used. Southwest New Zealand (Te Wahipounamu) Poppies is on the outskirts of town near the World Heritage Area, which extends from Mackenzie Country Inn. Westland’s Cook River down to Fiordland. Fenced in by the Southern Alps and the Two Shawty’s Café CAFE $$ Thumb, Liebig and Ben Ohau Ranges, more (4 Market Pl; breakfast & lunch $9-19, dinner mains than one-third of the park has a blanket of $21-31; W) Cool beats and craft beers create permanent snow and glacial ice. a mood that’s surprisingly sophisticated for Of the 27 NZ mountains over 3050m, 22 Twizel. Big breakfasts and gourmet pizzas are in this park. The highest is the mighty ($12 to $25) are a good way to start and end Mt Cook – at 3755m it’s the tallest peak in an active day amid the surrounding alpine Australasia. Known to Maori as Aoraki vistas. The adjacent Grappa Lounge has oc- (Cloud Piercer), after an ancestral deity in casional DJs and live music from Wednes- Maori mythology, the mountain was named day to Saturday across summer. after James Cook by Captain Stokes of the survey ship HMS Acheron. Jasmine Thai Café THAI $$ The Mt Cook region has always been the (1 Market Pl; lunch $12, dinner mains $17-22; focus of climbing in NZ. On 2 March 1882, hnoon-2pm Tue-Sun & 5-9pm daily) Thailand comes to Twizel, and the zesty and zingy William Spotswood Green and two Swiss al- fl avours of your favourite Southeast Asian pinists failed to reach the summit of Cook beach holiday have travelled well to get this after an epic 62-hour ascent. But two years far inland. Alcohol is BYO, so grab a few cold later a trio of local climbers – Tom Fyfe, beers from the Four Square supermarket to George Graham and Jack Clarke – were ease Jasmine’s authentic Thai heat. spurred into action by the news that two well-known European alpinists were com- 8 Getting There & Away ing to attempt Cook, and set off to climb it Onward services to Mt Cook (one hour) and before the visitors. On Christmas Day 1884 Queenstown (three hours), and northbound they ascended the Hooker Glacier and north services to Christchurch (fi ve hours), are off ered ridge, a brilliant climb in those days, and by Atomic Shuttles (www.atomictravel.co.nz) stood on the summit. and InterCity (%03-365 1113; www.intercity. In 1913, Australian climber Freda du Faur co.nz). became the fi rst woman to reach the sum- Cook Connection (%0800 266 526; www. mit. In 1948, Edmund Hillary’s party, along cookconnect.co.nz) operates to Mt Cook (one with Tenzing Norgay, climbed the south 45 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND SOUTHSIGHTS CHRISTCHURCH CANTERBURY & CANTERBURY ects fl ASTRONOMY NZ’s southern sky NZ’s digital presentations,erent ff Activities Highly changeable weather is typical Highly Check with the park rangers before at- nightly weather permitting) nightly weather rst death on Mt Cook in 1907, and since rst death on Mt Cook in 1907, is introduced by a 30-minute presentation digital planetarium, in the Alpine Centre’s before participants venture outside to study telescopes, bin- the celestial real deal with oculars, guide. and an astronomy ary oftenthe man of death 2008 regarded Zealander greatest New as the all time. of commentaryHis onlywere recorded tracks a fewThe he died. before months centre planetarium digital a full-dome includes di showing four Cook screen showing the Mt and a cinema and a fascinating 75-minute 3D movie Magic conquest of Mtdocumentary about Sir Ed’s screened in Another documentary, Everest. re on a continual basis, the museum the charity and development and the charity work that Sir Edmund Hillary achieved in the decades in 1953. Ad- after his conquest of Mt Everest by itself is free. mission to the museum then more than 70 climbers have died onthen more than 70 climbers have the peak. around here; Mt Cook is only 44km from the coast and weather conditions rolling in from can mean sudden storms. Sea the Tasman experienced in such condi- you’re Unless without a guide. tions, don’t climb anywhere heed their climb and always tempting any Mountaineering unlimited scope the experienced, there’s For for climbing, but regardless of your skills, everytake precaution – more than 200 peo- died in climbing accidents in theple have book in the Memoriam park. The bleak In visitor information centre begins with the fi (www.hermitage.co.nz; adult/child $50/25; adult/child (www.hermitage.co.nz; h 2 Tramping easy walks from the Hermitage Various area are outlined in the brochures available be prepared for suddenfrom DOC. Always weather changes. Longer walks are only recommended for those with mountaineering experience, as conditions at higher altitudes are severe and the tracks dangerous. Many died here, and most walkers people have shouldn’t If consider tackling these trails. of the park’s at any you intend on staying essential to register your intentions huts, it’s the hut fee. at the DOC visitor centre and pay Big Sky Big Sky rst to rst GLACIER back fi ff , near the HISTORIC BUILDING HISTORIC The newSir MUSEUM, PLANETARIUM MUSEUM, With fantastic views of rst hotel was destroyed inrst hotel was destroyed Alpine Memorial 7.30am-8.30pm) fi h ood in 1913. You can still see the ood in 1913. You fl rst climbing disasters. Three climb- fi Sights ash Mt Cook is a wonderful Mt Cook is sight, assuming fl foundations in Hooker Valley, 2km from the Valley, foundations in Hooker Rebuilt, it survivedcurrent Hermitage. until it burnt down. The when present Her- 1957, mitage was built on the same site and a new wing was added for the new millennium. Edmund Hillary Alpine Centre opened in late 2007 – just three weeks before the Janu- Hermitage Hermitage Sir Edmund Hillary Sir Edmund Alpine Centre one movie The Hermitage; (www.hermitage.co.nz; adult/child/family all six movies $18/8, adult/child $27/13.50/54; (www.hermitage.co.nz) down SH80. Hang around to soak up this around to soak down SH80. Hang land- peak and the surrounding awesome scape and to try the excellent short walks. a goatlike the thar, On the trails, look for creature and excellent climber; the chamois, than the thar;smaller and of lighter build Summertime brings the large and red deer. (the Mt Cook lily), andmountain buttercup and edelweiss. mountain daisies, gentians 1 Glacier Tasman Glaciers on the Josef and Franz the Fox Like other side of the divide, the Mt Cook glaciers move fast. The old Hermitage site on the Hooker Valley Valley the Hooker site on old Hermitage commemorating one of the moun- Track, tain’s only in 1914; ers were killed by an avalanche one of the bodies was recovered at the time, but 12 years later a second one melted out of 2000m Icefall, of the Hochstetter the bottom below where the party buried, illustrat- was ing the glaciers’ speed. reach the summit of Mt Everest. Since then, Since of Mt Everest. the summit reach been have face routes the daunting most of great many the region’s Among climbed. Malte Silberhorn, are Sefton,peaks Tasman, Doug- De la Beche, Hicks, Brun, La Perouse, ascended can be Many las and the Minarets. are and there Park, National from Westland on both sides of the divide. climbers’ huts visitors Most no cloud in the way. there’s buses, stop at the Hermitage arrive on tour zoom o hotel for photos, and then ridge; Hillaryridge; the to become on went Mt Cook, this is arguably the most famous hotel in NZ. Originally constructed in 1884, when the trip from Christchurch took sev- the eral days, a 46 advice. Fill out a climbers-intentions card ley. Choose from the Tasman Glacier Lake before starting out – so rangers can check or the pristine Mueller Glacier Lake (recom- on you if you’re overdue coming out – and mended for beginner kayakers). Book at the sign out again when you return. Old Mountaineers Cafe. (p48 )

Kea Point TRAMPING Alpine Recreation TRAMPING The trail to Kea Point (two hours return ( %03-680 6736, 0800 006 096; www.alpinerecre LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND from the village) is lined with native plant ation.com) Based in Lake Tekapo, Alpine life and ends at a platform with excellent Recreation organises high-altitude guided views of Mt Cook, the Hooker Valley and the treks, as well as mountaineering courses and ice faces of Mt Sefton and the Footstool. If ski touring. Also on oﬀ er are summertime you’re lucky, you might share your walk with climbing courses, and guided ascents of Mt a few inquisitive kea. Cook or Mt Tasman.

Sealy Tarns TRAMPING Alpine Guides SNOW SPORTS The walk to Sealy Tarns (three to four hours ( %03-435 1834; www.alpineguides.co.nz; Retail return) branches oﬀ the Kea Point Track and Centre, The Hermitage) Ski-touring, heliskiing, continues up the ridge to Mueller Hut (dm and guided climbs and mountaineering $36), a comfortable 30-bunk hut with gas courses. and cooking facilities. Southern Alps Guiding SNOW SPORTS Hooker Valley TRAMPING ( %027 342 277, 03-435 1890; www.mtcook.com)

CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY The walk up the Hooker Valley (three hours Heliskiing and boarding options including return) crosses a couple of swing bridges the Tasman Glacier. Ask at the Old Moun- to Stocking Stream and the terminus of taineers Cafe the Hooker Glacier. After the second swing bridge, Mt Cook totally dominates the valley. Mount Cook Ski Planes SCENIC FLIGHTS ( %03-430 8034, 0800 800 702; www.mtcookski Tasman Glacier View Track TRAMPING planes.com) Based at Mt Cook Airport, off er- The Tasman Valley walks are popular for ing 40-minute (adult/child $405/295) and their views of the Tasman Glacier. Walks 55-minute (adult/child $530/405) fl ights, start at the end of the unsealed Tasman Val- both with snow landings. Flightseeing with- ley Rd, 8km from the village. The Tasman out a landing is a cheaper option; try the Glacier View Track (50 minutes return) 25-minute Mini Tasman trip (adult/child leads to a viewpoint on the moraine wall, $275/255). passing the Blue Lakes (more green than blue these days) on the way. Helicopter Line SCENIC FLIGHTS ( %0800 650 651, 03-435 1801; www.helicopter. Ultimate Hikes TRAMPING co.nz) From Glentanner Park, the Helicop- ( %0800 686 800, 03-435 1899; www.ultimate ter Line does 20-minute Alpine Vista fl ights hikes.co.nz; full-day walk adult/child $108/67; ($215), an exhilarating 30-minute fl ight over hNov-Apr) Off ers a day-long 8km walk from the Ben Ohau Range ($295) and a 45-minute the Hermitage through the Hooker Valley to Mountains High fl ight over the Tasman Gla- the terminal lake of the Hooker Glacier. cier and by Mt Cook ($399). All feature snow landings. Glacier Explorers BOAT TOUR ( %03-435 1809, 0800 686 800; www.glacierexplor Glentanner Horse Trekking HORSE RIDING ers.com; per person $145) Heads out on the ter- ( %03-435 1855; www.glentanner.co.nz; 1/2/3hr minal lake of the Tasman Glacier. It starts ride $60/80/150; hNov-Apr) Leads guided with a 20-minute walk to the shore of Lake treks on a high-country sheep station. All Tasman, where you board a custom-built levels of experience are welcome. MAC boat and get up close and personal with 300-year-old icebergs. Book at the ac- Tasman Valley 4WD Argo Tours 4WD TOUR tivities desk at the Hermitage. ( %03-435 1601, 0800 686 800; www.mountcook tours.co.nz; adult/child $75/37.50; hyear round) Glacier Sea-Kayaking KAYAKING Off ers a 90-minute Argo (actually an 8WD ( %03-435 1890; www.mtcook.com; per person all-terrain vehicle) tour checking out the $130-145; hearly Oct-mid Apr) Has half-day and Tasman Glacier and its terminal lake. Ex- three-hour kayaking trips negotiating ice- pect plenty of alpine fl ora and an interesting bergs across glacial bays in the Hooker Val- commentary along the way. Pre-book online 47 CHRISTCHURCHLONELY PLANET &– CANTERBURYNEW ZEALAND SOUTHSLEEPING CHRISTCHURCH CANTERBURY & CANTERBURY $ $ $$$ This ) HOSTEL HOSTEL the HOTEL HOTEL ff iW HOLIDAY PARK PARK HOLIDAY This excellent ) iW islands can oating fl clean andres and DVDs. Rooms are fi On the northern shore of Lake Pukaki, 03-435 1855, 0800 453 682; www.glentanner. 1855, 03-435 03-435 1820; www.yha.co.nz; cnr Bowen & Kitch- Bowen cnr www.yha.co.nz; 1820; 03-435 03-435 1809, 0800 686 800; www.hermit 1809, 03-435 % % % sprawling complex has long monopolisedsprawling Mt Cook accommodation in the village. Rooms in well-equipped A-frame chalets (double $269) sleep up to four and include are motel units a kitchen. Also available ($239) and refurbished rooms in various The higher-end wings of the hotel proper. hotel rooms are very smart indeed, and include cinematic views of Mt Cook through huge picture windows. feature private balconies, perfectfeature private balconies, for taking the is in the superb alpine views. Attached Chamois Bar & Grill. co.nz; SH80; sites from $34, dm $27.50, units $80- units dm $27.50, $34, from SH80; sites co.nz; 155) ener Dr; dm $37, d/tw $118; dm $37, ener Dr; age.co.co.nz; Terrace Rd; r $209-575; r $209-575; Rd; Terrace age.co.co.nz; ( Mt Cook YHA YHA Mt Cook ( Centre Glentanner Park Hermitage Hermitage ( hostel has a free sauna, drying room, warm- ing log spacious, and family rooms and facilities for with disabilities are also available. travellers in advance. If you’re and book a few days Try mountain-bound you can store luggage here. this is the nearest facility-laden campingthis is the nearest facility-laden ground to the national park and has great views of Mt Cook, 25km to the north. It’s well set up with various cabins and motel $ - $$ fi in public public HOSTEL HOSTEL LODGE LODGE ats with kitch- fl atable boat amid 500-year-old islands of ice on Lake Tasman in Tasman on Lake ice islands of amid 500-year-old atable boat fl rst formed around 30 years ago, when huge swathes of ice sheared o sheared ice of swathes huge when ago, 30 years around formed rst fi 8am-7pm Oct-Apr, to 5pm May-Sep) to Oct-Apr, 8am-7pm h (

Sleeping Recently redecorated and refurbished, This double twin, modern lodge with The ice may be centuries old, but the lake’s only been around a few decades. Lake Lake decades. a few only been around but the lake’s old, be centuries may ice The NZ’s one of of the size increase to continues change climate of impact The ongoing ) ) oor heating, the place ensures a warm ﬂ 0800 100 512, 03-436 1653; www.mountcook 1653; 03-436 512, 0800 100 03-435 1860; www.aorakialpinelodge.co.nz; 1860; www.aorakialpinelodge.co.nz; 03-435 Campers and walkers can use the Campers and walkers the Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park. An icing-sugar-like dusting of snow may have fallen fallen have may snow of dusting An icing-sugar-like National Park. Cook Aoraki/Mt the it spinning and send iceberg an rebalance enough to be that could and even overnight, the of wind the location a decent With in the frigid water. and rotating When you’re only a few kilometres from NZ’s highest mountain, the last thing you expect expect you thing last the mountain, highest NZ’s from kilometres only a few When you’re a surreal It’s polar regions. planet’s the from straight icebergs huge of is a maze see to in an in cruising feeling TITANIC SCENE TITANIC ON LAKETASMAN Tasman was was Tasman a maximum length to grow it will eventually estimated and it’s lakes, coldest and newest 16km. of change by the hour. by change environ- be a dynamic to continues lake The ice-strewn face. terminal Glacier’s Tasman 22 February On up. breaking the icebergs one of of the danger always ment and there’s away shear to ice chunk of a 30-million-tonne caused earthquake the Christchurch 2011, causing 1.3km long and 300m high, was ice of piece The huge Glacier. Tasman the from no one (Fortunately, at the time. the lake on boats tourist into roll to waves substantial the waves.) by injured was % % Mt Cook Backpackers is a sprawling, double- Mt Cook Backpackers andstorey spot with four-bed dorms, twins doubles, and self-contained ens. All rooms have en suite facilities andens. All rooms have and family rooms is the best place to stay rugs and un- in the village. With Turkish der welcome. Shared facilities include a huge lounge and kitchen area, and the alfresco barbecue with superb mountain views will going to grill you arguing over who’s have the steak for dinner. backpackers.co.nz; dm $35, d/tw $120, unit $170; unit $170; d/tw $120, dm $35, backpackers.co.nz; Bowen Dr; d $159-189, tr/q $164/164, f $220-240; f $220-240; $164/164, tr/q d $159-189, Dr; Bowen Mt Cook Backpackers Backpackers Mt Cook ( iW ( iW Aoraki/Mt Cook Alpine Lodge Alpine Lodge Cook Aoraki/Mt nitely worth the additional expense. (recommended) or book at the Hermitage at the Hermitage (recommended) or book hotel activities desk. 4 Accommodation is more expensive in Mt but the thrill of Cook Village than in Twizel, waking up so close to the mountains is de the village, which has running water, toilets the village, which has running water, that thisand coin-operated showers. Note shelter cannot be used for overnight stays. shelter 48 units, a dormitory (open October to April) Chamois Bar & Grill PUB and a restaurant. Tours and activities can Chamois Bar & Grill is upstairs in Mt Cook also be booked. Backpackers, 500m from the YHA, where it entertains with a pool table, big-screen TV, Unwin Lodge HOSTEL $ and the occasional live gig. ( %027 817 6860, 03-435 1100; www.alpineclub. org.nz; SH80; dm $30) About 3.5km before LONELY PLANET – CHRISTCHURCH NEW ZEALAND & CANTERBURY 7 Shopping the village, this lodge belongs to the New Alpine Guides OUTDOOR EQUIPMENT Zealand Alpine Club (NZAC). Members get (www.alpineguides.co.nz; Retail Centre, The Hermit- preference, but beds are usually available for age; h8am-5pm) Sells travel clothing, outdoor climbing groupies. There are basic bunks in and mountaineering gear, and rents ice axes, a recently redeveloped bunkroom, and a big crampons, daypacks and sleeping bags. common room with a ﬁ replace and kitchen.

White Horse Hill Camping Area CAMPSITE $ 8 Information ( %03-435 1186; Hooker Valley; adult/child $6/3) Stock up on groceries and petrol at Twizel or A basic DOC-run, self-registration camping Lake Tekapo. The nearest ATM is in Twizel. ground at the starting point for the Hooker DOC Aoraki/Mt Cook Visitor Centre (%03- Valley Track, 2km from Aoraki/Mt Cook 435 1186; www.doc.govt.nz; 1 Larch Grove; village. There’s running water (boil before h8.30am-5pm Oct-Apr, to 4.30pm May-Sep) drinking) and toilets, but no electricity or Advises on weather conditions, guided tours cooking facilities. and tramping routes, and hires out beacons for trampers ($35). The centre includes excellent 5 Eating & Drinking displays on the flora, fauna and history of the Mt Cook region. Most activities can be booked Old Mountaineers Café, Bar & here. Trampers must complete intentions cards Restaurant CAFE $$ when leaving for walks. (www.mtcook.com; Bowen Dr; lunch mains $17-24 & dinner mains $22-35; iW) Cosy in winter, with Getting There & Away mountain views from outside tables in sum- 8 mer, this place delivers top-notch burgers, The village’s small airport only serves aerial pizza, pasta and salad, and is a good-value sightseeing companies. Some of these may be alternative to the eateries at the Hermit- willing to combine transport to the West Coast age. Linger to study the old black-and-white (ie Franz Josef) with a scenic fl ight, but fl ights are heavily dependent on weather. pics and mountaineering memorabilia. The menu features lots of organic, free-range InterCity (www.intercity.co.nz) links Mt Cook to Christchurch (fi ve hours), Queenstown (four and GM-free options as well. hours) and Wanaka (with a change in Tarras; 4¼ hours). Buses stop at the YHA and the Hermit- Glentanner Restaurant CAFE $ age, both of which handle bookings. (SH80, Glentanner; meals $10-20) The decor might resemble a school cafeteria, but The Cook Connection (%0800 266 526; there’s plenty of robust Kiwi tucker on off er. www.cookconnect.co.nz) has services to Twizel (one hour) and Lake Tekapo (two hours). Bus Steak sandwiches and fi sh and chips will get services in these towns link to Christchurch, you through the longest of exploring days. Queenstown, Wanaka and Dunedin. Hermitage RESTAURANT $$ If you’re driving, fi ll up at Lake Tekapo or Twiz- Dining options at the Hermitage include a el. There is petrol at Mt Cook, but it’s expensive cafe with light meals and pizzas, fi ne dining and involves summoning an attendant from the in the Panorama Room (mains $35-42), and Hermitage (for a fee). breakfast, lunch and dinner buff ets in the Alpine Room. © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’