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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd This chapter was researched in December 2011 for the 16th edition of Lonely Planet’s New Zealand (to be published September 2012). It is provided free, without fi nalised editing or full mapping, in order to provide the most up-to-date post-quake travel infor- mation to travellers as quickly as possible. Christchurch & Canterbury Why Go? Nowhere in New Zealand is changing and developing as fast Christchurch .................... 2 as post-earthquake Christchurch, and visiting the country’s Around Christchurch ..... 22 second largest city as it’s being rebuilt and reborn is both Lyttelton ......................... 22 interesting and inspiring. Akaroa & Banks A short drive from Christchurch’s dynamic re-emer- Peninsula ........................ 23 gence, Banks Peninsula conceals hidden bays and beaches North Canterbury ..........28 – a backdrop for kayaking and wildlife cruises with a sun- Hanmer Springs .............28 set return to the attractions of Akaroa. To the north are the vineyards of the Waipara Valley and the family-holiday Lewis Pass Hwy ...............31 ambience of Hanmer Springs. Westwards, the well-or- Central Canterbury ........32 dered farms of the Canterbury Plains morph quickly into Craigieburn Forest Park .32 the rough-and-tumble wilderness of the Southern Alps. Arthur’s Pass ..................32 Canterbury summertime attractions include tramping Methven ..........................34 along the braided rivers and alpine valleys around Arthur’s Mt Somers ......................35 Pass and mountain biking around the turquoise lakes of the South Canterbury ..........36 Mackenzie Country. During winter, the attention switches Timaru ............................36 to the mountains, with skiing at Mt Hutt. Throughout the seasons, Aoraki/Mt Cook, the country’s tallest peak, stands Inland & Mackenzie Country ..........................38 sentinel over this diverse region. Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park..................44 When to Go Best Places to Eat January Christchurch comes alive with the World Buskers Festival, a » Bodhi Tree (p 15 ) global showcase of street performance. » Simo’s Deli (p 17 ) February to March » Christchurch Farmers Market (p 17 ) Long summer days provide plenty of opportunity to get active amid Canterbury’s spectacular landscapes. » Almeidas Tapas Bar (p 15 ) July to October Best Places to Hit the slopes at Mt Hutt, or go local on Canterbury’s smaller Stay ski fi elds. » Orari B&B (p 12 ) » Le Petit Hotel (p15 ) » Coombe Farm (p 26 ) » Okuti Garden (p 26 ) 2 8 Getting There & Away and innovative layer to its damaged heritage heart. Punts still glide gently down the Avon Christchurch has an international airport serviced by domestic airlines fl ying to key des- River, and the Botanic Gardens and Hagley tinations around NZ. International connections Park are still amongst NZ’s fi nest public include Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne and the spaces, but an energetic entrepreneurial Gold Coast in Australia, and Kuala Lumpur and edge is also evident, harnessing the oppor- LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND NEW – PLANET LONELY Singapore in Asia. tunities emerging from the city’s recent seis- Bus and shuttle operators scurry along the mic heartache. east coast, connecting Canterbury’s coastal (and near-coastal) settlements with northern History destinations such as Picton and Nelson, and The settlement of Christchurch in 1850 was southern towns like Dunedin and Queenstown. an ordered Church of England enterprise, Other operators connect Christchurch to and the fertile farming land was deliber- Arthur’s Pass, the West Coast and Mt Cook. ately placed in the hands of the gentry. Rail options for east-coast and coast-to-coast Christchurch was meant to be a model of travel are provided by KiwiRail Scenic (www. class-structured England in the South Pa- tranzscenic.co.nz). The TranzAlpine service cifi c, not just another scruff y colonial out- connects Christchurch and Greymouth, and post. Churches were built rather than pubs, the Coastal Pacific trains chug north to Picton, and wool made the elite of Christchurch with ferry connections across Cook Strait to the wealthy. In 1862, Christchurch was incor- North Island. porated as a very English city, and town CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY & CHRISTCHURCH planning and architecture assumed a close affi nity with the ‘Mother Country’. As other CHRISTCHURCH migrants arrived, the city’s character slowly 380,900 evolved. New industries followed, and the Welcome to a vibrant city in transition, cop- city forged its own aesthetic and cultural ing resiliently and creatively with the after- notions, often derived from the rich rural math of NZ’s second-biggest natural disaster hinterland of the Canterbury Plains. From (especially as tremors can still be felt regu- September 2010, the city’s reverie as the larly). Traditionally the most English of NZ South Island’s cultural and economic hub cities, Christchurch is now adding a modern was savagely torn asunder, and Christch- urch was forced to look to the future with both signifi cant challenges and signifi cant ESSENTIAL opportunities. CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY FACTS 1 Sights » Eat Amid the emerging Addington F Botanic Gardens GARDENS restaurant scene in Christchurch (www.ccc.govt.nz; Rolleston Ave; admission free, » Drink NZ’s best craft beer at guided walks $10, train tour adult/child $18/9; Christchurch’s Pomeroy’s Old Brewery hgrounds 7am-1hr before sunset, conservatories In (p 17 )n 10.15am-4pm, cafe 9am-4pm Mon-Fri, 10.15am- 4pm Sat & Sun; p) The Botanic Gardens com- » Read Old Bucky & Me, a poignant prise 30 riverside hectares planted with account of the 2011 earthquake by 10,000-plus specimens of indigenous and Christchurch journalist Jane Bowron introduced plants. There are conservatories » Listen To the best of up-and-coming and thematic gardens to explore, lawns to bands at Christchurch’s Dux Live (p 18 ) sprawl on, and a cafe at the Botanic Gar- and darkroom (p 19 ) dens visitors centre. Get the kids active in » Watch When a City Falls, a moving the playground adjacent to the cafe. Guided documentary about the 2010 and 2011 walks depart daily at 1.30pm (September earthquakes to April) from the Canterbury Museum, » Go green At the ecofriendly Okuti or you can ride around the gardens in the Garden (p 26 ) on Banks Peninsula electric ‘Caterpillar’ train: hop-on/hop-off tickets (www.gardentour.co.nz) are valid » Get info at www.christchurchnz.com for two days (from 10am-4pm) and include and www.mtcooknz.com a commentary. » Telephone code %03 3 CHRISTCHURCH & CANTERBURY HIGHLIGHTS » Supporting the exciting rebuild and re-emergence of Christchurch (p 2 ) » Meandering along Christchurch’s Avon River (p 6 ) by punt or bicycle » Marvelling at the views of the Mackenzie Country from atop Mt John (p 40 ) LONELY PLANET – NEW ZEALAND NEW – PLANET CANTERBURY & CHRISTCHURCH LONELY » Taking a soothing soak at Lake Tekapo’s Alpine Springs & Spa (p 41 ) CANTERBURY & CHRISTCHURCH » Negotiating the outer reaches of Banks Peninsula (p 23 ) by bike, kayak and boat » Tramping in the shadow of NZ’s highest peak in Aoraki/Mt Cook National Park (p 44 ) » Being surprised by the size of the Canterbury Plains on a balloon flight from Methven (p 34 ) Canterbury Museum MUSEUM thedral Square. At the time of writing the ( %03-366 5000; www.canterburymuseum.com; square was in the heart of the city’s cor- Rolleston Ave; admission by donation; h9am-5pm doned-off CBD (Central Business District), Apr-Sep, to 5.30pm Oct-Mar) The absorbing but was planned to be reopened around Canterbury Museum has a wonderful col- April or May of 2012. CHRISTCHURCH lection of items of signifi cance to NZ. High- At the centre of the square, ChristChurch SIGHTS lights include the Maori gallery, with some Cathedral was originally constructed in CANTERBURY & CHRISTCHURCH stunning pounamu (greenstone) pieces on 1881, and is a much-loved icon of the city. display; the coracle in the Antarctic Hall The cathedral suff ered devastating damage used by a group shipwrecked on Disap- in the 22 February 2011 earthquake, bring- pointment Island in 1907; and a wide array ing down the Gothic church’s 63m-high of stuff ed birds from the Pacifi c and beyond spire and leaving only the bottom half of the – don’t miss the statuesque Emperor pen- tower remaining. At the time of the earth- guin. Guided tours (donations appreciated) quake, it was feared up to 20 people had run from 3.30pm to 4.30pm on Tuesday and been in the spire when it collapsed, but it Thursday. Kids will enjoy the interactive was later found that no one had actually displays in the Discovery Centre (admission died at the site. Subsequent earthquakes in $2). Don’t miss the gloriously kitsch Kiwiana June 2011 and December 2011 destroyed the of Fred & Myrtle’s Paua Shell House. Cathedral’s prized stained-glass rose win- dow, and the cathedral was deconsecrated Arts Centre HISTORIC SITE in October 2011. (www.artscentre.org.nz; 2 Worcester St; admission At the time of writing, the future of the free; p) This precinct is currently closed, cathedral was uncertain, and no decision pending strengthening and repairs esti- had been made on its demolition or rebuild. mated to cost $240 million. An enclave of See www.christchurchcathedral.co.nz for Gothic Revival buildings (built from 1877), the latest information. The draft plan to it was the original site of Canterbury Col- rebuild Christchurch recommends that Ca- lege, which later became Canterbury Uni- thedral Square be transformed into a park. versity. One graduate of the college was Sir Other heritage buildings around Cathe- Ernest Rutherford, the NZ-born physicist dral Square were also badly damaged, but who fi rst split the atom in 1917. Before the one modern landmark was unscathed fol- earthquakes, the Arts Centre was a popular lowing the earthquakes. Designed by Neil cultural precinct comprising artists’ studios Dawson, the 18m-high metal sculpture and galleries, weekend craft markets, res- Chalice was erected in 2001 to commemo- taurants and cinemas.
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