COMPANION SOUTHERN BOTSWANA “Half the Fun of the Travel

Travel COMPANION SOUTHERN BOTSWANA “Half the fun of the travel.. is the aesthetic of lostness” Ray Bradbury Welcome to Botswana

Botswana is well known for having Dog, Cheetah, Brown Hyena, Cape some of the best wilderness and Vulture, Wattled Crane, Kori Bustard, wildlife areas on the African and Pel’s Fishing Owl. This makes continent. With a full 38 percent your safari experience even more of its total land area devoted to memorable, and at times you will feel national parks, reserves and wildlife simply surrounded by wild animals. Bmanagement areas – for the most part The first – and most lasting unfenced, allowing animals to roam impressions – will be of vast expanses wild and free – travel through many of uninhabited wilderness stretching parts of the country has the feeling of from horizon to horizon, the sensation moving through an immense Nature of limitless space, astoundingly rich wonderland. wildlife and bird viewing, night skies Botswana is a rarity in our over- littered with stars and heavenly bodies populated, over-developed world. of an unimaginable brilliance, and Untamed and untameable, it is one stunning sunsets of unearthly beauty. of the last great refuges for Nature’s As well, with more and more magnificent pageantry of life. cultural tourism options on offer, Experience here the stunning you will be charmed by the people beauty of the world’s largest intact of Botswana, visiting their villages inland Delta – the Okavango; the and experiencing first-hand their rich unimaginable vastness of the world’s cultural heritage. second largest game reserve – the But perhaps most of all, Botswana’s Central Kalahari Game Reserve; the greatest gift is its ability to put us isolation and other-worldliness of the in touch with our natural selves. It Makgadikgadi – uninhabited pans the offers that vital link so keenly felt by size of Portugal; and the astoundingly inhabitants of the developed world, prolific wildlife of the Chobe National a pervasive void we feel but often Park. cannot name – our connectedness Botswana is the last stronghold with Nature and the astonishing for a number of endangered bird and diversity of plants and animals to be mammal species, including Wild explored. About Us...

The Botswana Tourism Board To plan, develop and implement To set performance targets and (BTB) was established by an Act of tourism marketing and promotion to design programmes aimed at Parliament in 2003. Its mandate is to strategies aimed at creating and facilitating the continued growth and market and promote Botswana as a sustaining a positive image of development of tourism; premier tourist destination of choice, Botswana as a tourist and investor To develop and implement to promote Botswana as a tourism destination; appropriate strategies for achieving Tinvestment venue, and to grade and To plan, formulate and implement annual work plan objectives and to classify accommodation facilities in strategies for promoting sustainable set performance targets aimed at the the country. The Board commenced tourism development in collaboration promotion of tourism business in its operations in January 2006. with the tourism industry’s private Botswana; A Board of Directors, consisting sector, local authorities, local To investigate any matter that has a of 15 members and appointed by the communities and Non-Governmental negative effect on the tourism industry, Minister of Wildlife, Environment and Organisations (NGOs); and to make recommendations Tourism, governs the BTB. The Board To determine policies for giving thereon to the Government; is comprised of the Chairperson and effect to the objects and purposes of To manage and co-ordinate the Vice Chairperson, a representative the Act that established the BTB; Botswana’s tourism promotional and from the governing Ministry, and 12 To advise Government to change, publicity programmes; members from the public and private review or formulate policy and To provide market research sectors in the tourism industry. strategies where necessary; information and market intelligence BTB holds a broad portfolio To implement Government on tourism; that touches nearly all aspects of policies and programmes aimed at To promote the expansion of tourism development in the country, facilitating the continued growth and existing and new investment in including: development of the tourism sector; Botswana’s tourism sector;

2 LOCAL Offices

Headquarters Tel: +267 391-3111 Fax: +267 395-9220 [email protected] www.botswanatourism.co.bw

Main Mall Tel: +267 395-9455 Fax: +267 318-1373

Maun Tel: +267 686-1056 Tel: +267 686-3093 (airport office) Fax: +267 686-1062 [email protected]

Kasane Tel: +267 625-0555 Tel: +267 625-2210/1 (airport office) Fax: +267 625-0424 [email protected]

To establish and expand local recreational and leisure tourism, Francistown as well as international travel trade and to bring them to the required Tel: +267 244-0113 networks to promote and sell marketable standard. Fax: +267 244-0120 Botswana; The grading system serves as a [email protected] To market and promote the means to protect the consumer and establishment of joint tourism business guarantee quality accommodation Ghanzi ventures between citizen and foreign and services in Botswana. It also assists Tel: +267 659-6704 investors; the accommodation establishment to Fax: +267 659-6706 To grade and classify accomm- benchmark its performance against [email protected] odation facilities in the tourism set standards. industry; Additionally, the grading system Palapye To promote the improvement is a useful tool to indicate to travel Tel: +267 492-2138 of tourism industry standards, in the agents, tour operators and tourists the Fax: +267 492-2147 areas of service standards and a code general quality of accommodation [email protected] of ethics; facilities in the country. This can serve To conduct tourism awareness as a guide for tourists planning their Tsabong campaigns within and outside destinations in Botswana. Tel: +267 654-0822 Botswana; and The system also provides a Fax: +267 654-0813/4 To develop and improve existing framework to industry investors so that [email protected] tourism opportunities, and to diversify they are able to design their facilities to the sector to include other forms of attract the desired market segments. tourism, such as cultural and heritage BTB is funded through grants tourism, eco-tourism, entertainment, received from the Government. See page 35 for additional contact details for all local and international offices. Southern Highlights

Enjoy the amenities of a modern Gain an introduction to Botswana’s Experience vibrant music and dance cosmopolitan city, with luxury hotels fascinating wildlife through accessible performances, as well as colourful and world class conference centres. reserves in and around the city. arts and crafts. COMPANION TravelSOUTHERN Botswana

INTRODUCTION Welcome to Botswana 1 About Us 2 Highlights 4

Destinations Gaborone 6 Browse cottage industries specialising in Visit our village Town Centre 9 Government Enclave 9 pottery, weaving, glasswear, leatherworks, homesteads and glean Sir Seretse Khama Statue 9 and meet local artists. insights into traditional life. Three Chiefs Monument 9 National Museum and Art Gallery 9 The Village 10 Thapong Visual Arts Centre 10 Botanical Gardens 10 Ecological Park 11 Gaborone Game Reserve 11 Gaborone Dam 11 No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency 12 Sports 12 Kgale Hill 12 The Arts 13 Day trips heading South 14 Day trips heading West 20 Day trips heading North 24

Regional Maps Gaborone 18-2 Southern Region 18-3 Botswana fold out Distance Chart 18-4

Information Botswana at a Glance 26 Visitor Information 27 Emergency Numbers 34

Produced by: Botswana Tourism Board, Gaborone June 2009

Writer/Editor: Linda Pfotenhauer Graphic Design: Sarah Banks, Kolobe Botswana Cartography: Department of Surveys and Mapping COMPANION to... Travel Gaborone Once proudly referred to as “Africa’s but was used by the people of the Maun and a point within the Tuli fastest growing city,” Botswana’s neighbouring village of Tlokweng as Block. Gaborone was chosen because capital, Gaborone, has been – since its a cattle grazing area. of its strategic location, its proximity inception – continually expanding, to Britain’s Bechuanaland protectorate to the railway line and Pretoria, its the point that now the sprawling urban (established in 1885) had its main already established administrative centre of some 300 000 residents has administrative centre in Mafeking offices, its accessibility to most of become nearly unrecognisable from (now Mafikeng), in South Africa, just the major tribes, its non-association Othe tiny, dusty administrative town it over the current Ramatlabama border. with any particular tribe, and most was at the country’s independence in As plans developed for the country’s importantly, its closeness to a major 1966. independence, it was clear it would water source. From the end of the nineteenth need an administrative town within its The city was named after century, until 1963, tiny ‘Gaberones‘ political boundaries. Bechuanaland Kgosi Gaborone, leader of the Village, as the town was then called, was the only territory in the world Batlokwa people, who migrated consisted of only a small settlement whose administrative centre lay from their ancestral homelands in on the railway line and a small outside its boundaries. the Magaliesberg Mountains and in administrative centre in the area now Nine possible sites were suggested: 1881 settled in the Tlokweng area called ‘The Village.’ The land between Mahalapye, Shashe, Francistown, (then called Moshaweng). Gaborone both settlements was Crown land, Serowe, Artesia, Lobatse, Gaborone, literally means ‘it does not fit badly’ or

6 Left to right: Gaborone City Centre; The Ministry of Health building close to the Main Mall; Riverwalk Shopping Centre.

‘it is not unbecoming.” blocks, a power station, a hospital, and financial centres radiating from its Once plans for the city had been schools, a radio station, an airfield, a centre. Gaborone gained city status in drawn up, technical experts from several telephone exchange, police stations, a 1986. European countries were brought in to post office, banks, shops, a church, a Twenty-first century Gaborone now assist with the planning and building hotel, a brewery, a stadium grandstand, boasts four, large American-style malls, of the town; and architects, artisans, a dam, and more than one thousand replete with cinema complexes, a host supervisors and labourers were brought houses. of hotels, guest houses and restaurants, in from surrounding areas in Botswana, Indeed the basic infrastructure was an international airport, a cultural and from Southern Rhodesia. in place for Independence Day on 30th centre, discos and nightclubs, a national In mid-1963, construction on the September 1966, when Bechuanaland museum and art gallery, as well as two Gaborone Dam began, while work on became the eleventh British territory in golf courses and other sports facilities. the town itself commenced in early Africa to become independent. What makes Gaborone so unique, 1964. Since then the city has grown however, is that the visitor can enjoy In eighteen months, the new capital into a modern, bustling government, all the familiar modern conveniences emerged from the African bush. By the commercial and industrial centre, now of home, but can gain entry into rural time it was completed – incidentally incorporating the neighbouring villages Africa, or wildlife areas, within minutes nearly on time – it boasted National of Tlokweng and Mogoditshane, and – having then the best of both possible Assembly buildings, Government office with housing estates, industrial estates worlds.

7 Clockwise from top left: Government Enclave buildings with the BDF Monument in the forefront; The Sir Seretse Khama Statue; Art on display at the National Art Gallery; The Three Kings Monument; Main Mall shops and craft stalls. Town Centre was sculpted by British artist Norman into the British South Africa Company, Pearce, and cast in Britain, then flown and forever altering the history of the Scheduled for a face-lift, Gaborone’s to Botswana for its unveiling. country. first mall – often referred to as The Sir Seretse Khama (1921-1980) The monument was sculpted and Main Mall – is a pedestrian-only was the founding father and first cast by North Korean artisans, using business and commercial centre that president of Botswana, who led his a photograph of the three chiefs. boasts some of the town’s oldest shops Botswana Democratic Party (BDP) to It was unveiled on the occasion of and office buildings, as well as one of election victory in 1965 to establish the country’s 39th anniversary of its first hotels, The President Hotel. At a unified, democratic, multi-party, independence in 2005. its top end, across the Nelson Mandela multi-racial society. Through his Road, sits the Government Enclave political acumen, honesty, tolerance, The National Museum and and the National Assembly; and at and sense of humour he quickly won Art Gallery the opposite end are the Gaborone the respect and admiration of his City Town Council offices. Shoppers people, as well as that of European Established in June 1967 and officially will enjoy browsing the many outdoor and African leaders. He was knighted opened in September, 1968 by the stalls of African arts, crafts and curios in 1991 by Queen Elizabeth II. then Acting President of Botswana, that line the main walkway. Dr. Q.K.J. Masire, the National Three Chiefs Monument Museum has been a vibrant focal Government Enclave point of artistic and cultural activity Crossing the railway tracks over the since its inception. The mandate has Adorned with trees and flowers and flyover, and turning into a newly always been to display and promote several important monuments, the developed Central Business District, the country’s natural and cultural attractive Government Enclave is the Monument of the Three Chiefs is heritage, and to acquire artifacts open to the public. It contains the another impressive historical statue relating to Africa south of the Sahara. National Assembly, where Parliament that marks an important turning point The adjoining National Art Gallery convenes, the Office of the President, in the history of Botswana. was opened in 1975 and it continually and a number of ministry offices. In the late 1800s, Botswana stages quality exhibitions of art, One historical statue commem- territory was under threat from British crafts and photography, of increasing orates those Batswana who served in industrialist Cecil Rhodes, who wished diversity. the Second World War; whilst another to take over Bechuanaland for his Recently celebrating its 40th honours those Botswana Defence British South Africa Company. Three anniversary (2008), the National Force soldiers who perished in the senior chiefs of the time – Chief Khama Museum and Art Gallery has gone Rhodesian war of liberation. (It is III of the Bangwato, Chief Sebele I from strength to strength in the advised that permission be obtained of the Bakwena, and Chief Bathoen collection of artifacts, research, before taking photos of Government I of the Bangwaketse – travelled to exhibitions, national and international buildings.) London in 1885 to petition Joseph collaborations, and in its vigorous Chamberlain, Secretary of State for outreach programmes that bring the Sir Seretse Khama Statue the Colonies, and whilst there, they museum – and instruction in cultural were presented to Queen Victoria. heritage – to rural residents. This ‘Pitse Unveiled on the occasion of Botswana’s Gaining support from the British ya Naga’ (‘Zebra on Wheels’) has now 20th anniversary of independence in public, they petitioned the Queen reached virtually every primary school 1986, this striking bronze statue now for protection; and this was granted. in the country. Research is in such faces the National Assembly, having The Bechuanaland Protectorate diverse fields as geology, ethnology, recently been turned 180 degrees was established in the same year, entomology, zoology, art, graphic from its previous position where it thus circumventing the territory’s and exhibition design, education and overlooked the Main Mall. The statue potentially disastrous incorporation archaeology.

9 Left: Eclectic art on display at Thapong; Right: The Botanical Gardens.

The Museum has registered and Protectorate, the Village once held a documented over 100 000 artifacts, fort, (constructed 1890-91), the area’s 40 000 insect specimens and 20 000 first post office, a prison, a grave yard, slides; it houses priceless paintings and the ‘Gaberones’ magistrate’s and original historical photos. It has house. Of these buildings, only the held over 300 local and international prison remains, albeit in rather poor exhibitions and gazetted a number condition; and the graveyard still of national monuments. Colourful contains the grave markers of the men indoor and outdoor permanent who died in the Anglo-Boer War. A displays chronicle the flora, fauna few late 19th and early 20th century and cultures of Botswana. buildings in the Village are still in use. The National Museum and Art Gallery are frequented by thousands of Thapong Visual Arts Centre Botanical Gardens schoolchildren every year, as well as residents of and visitors to the country. Situated in the former magistrate’s The recently opened National Museum Contact the Museum’s Information house (1902), the Thapong Visual Arts Botanical Gardens is a welcome Centre, as well as the local media, for Centre is home to Botswana’s young, addition to the city of Gaborone. It a listing of upcoming exhibitions and gifted – and sometimes avant-garde – features walking trails (with labeled events, Tel: +267 397-4616. artists. In addition to the exhibitions it trees and plants), exhibits on the flora of regularly stages, this very active centre Botswana, a library of botanical books, The Village also periodically offers art courses for and historical buildings, including a children. Enquire at their offices for colonial guest house. This is a pleasant Established in 1890 and for some time a schedule of upcoming activities, place for a family outing, also providing serving as an administrative centre for or check the local newspapers. For an educational perspective on the the southern part of Bechuanaland details Tel: +267 316-1771. country’s flora.

10 Ecological Park Above: Children’s Playground and Eco Café at the Ecological Park; Right: Initiated in 2002 by the highly active Suckling newborn zebra at the environmental NGO Somarelang Gaborone Game Reserve. Tikologo, Gaborone’s Ecological Park – situated on the corner of South Ring Road and Kaunda Road – is a paper and cardboard are provided, dam in the park. Terrain includes tree welcome retreat for city dwellers. It and drop off is permitted 24/7.); the savanna, riparian woodland, marsh also is a highly instructive facility that Organic Garden, demonstrating and rocky outcrops. familiarises visitors with simple but low water usage, water recycling / The park is popular for weekend effective technologies for resource harvesting, organic growing tech- outings and picnics, with two well- conservation and waste management. niques, organic pesticides, and selling appointed picnic sites. There are also The park has been developed fresh organic vegetables once a week; animal and bird observation hides to inspire people to live in an and the Children’s Playground, made and a visitors’ centre; and pre-booked environmentally friendly life, whilst from recycled and natural products. educational tours can be arranged for at the same time save money. Tel: +267 391-3709. both schoolchildren and visitors. Transforming a once idle open space into an oasis of eco-friendly Gaborone Game Reserve Gaborone Dam technologies, the facilities on offer are wide ranging and exemplary. They Possibly one of the few national The life source of Gaborone and its include: The Green Shop, selling a reserves to be situated inside a city, surrounding areas, the Gaborone unique assortment of products made this relatively small (5 square kms) but Dam is often part of people’s from natural or recycled materials, well stocked park is home to a number conversations during the dry season, such as jewellery, hats, mats, bags, of Botswana’s indigenous species, or drought years, during which time aprons, waste bins and children’s including zebra, eland, gemsbok, red a neon signboard in town regularly mobiles, as well as sweets and snacks hartebeest, blue wildebeest, impala, informs residents of how full the made from desert fruits; the Drop Off kudu, steenbok, vervet monkeys, dam is. In this desert country prone and Recycling Centre, the only such warthog and rock dassies, as well as to prolonged drought, water – and facility of its kind in the city. (Separate numerous resident and migrant bird having enough of it – is an over-riding receptacles for cans, bottles, plastics, species, best viewed from the small preoccupation.

11 Construction on the dam began locations that inspired the stories, can in 1963, capturing water from the be booked in Gaborone. Contact a Ngotwane River, to supply the local travel agency for more details. country’s planned new capital city. The reservoir filled, and overflowed, Sports during the 1965-66 rainy season. Ten years later, the dam wall was raised by Gaborone’s warm, sunny weather eight metres. Other sources of water to makes it an ideal venue for sports supply the ever-growing metropolitan enthusiasts; and the city boasts a area have been built further north at number of modern sports facilities. Bokaa and Letsibogo. These include tennis courts, squash The Gaborone Yacht Club is courts, boating, yachting, cricket, situated at the south end of the dam; rugby, football, horse riding, golf, this very active club offers canoeing, netball, softball, volleyball and of yachting, picnics, and bushwalks and course swimming. There are a number is open to the public. of well equipped fitness centres that offer weight training, aerobics, The No. 1 Ladies’ yoga and dance. One-off visitors are Detective Agency Film Set welcome.

The award winning British director Kgale Hill Anthony Minghella, upon searching for the right location to film Alexander Gaborone’s most visible hill – and McCall Smith’s international best one of the city’s major landmarks – seller, The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective overlooks both the Gaborone Dam Agency, chose a cul de sac at the base as well as its largest mall, Game City, of Kgale Hill. Here his production providing a beautiful panorama of crew rebuilt a segment of the old-time the city, and in the late afternoon, Gaborone city, replete with butchery, dramatic African sunsets. Kgale general supplies shop, beauty salon, (meaning ‘the place that dried up’) is bike repair shop and outdoor eatery. popular for climbers and picnickers, Long-time residents of the capital city and has clearly defined routes up have remarked how the colourful film and down. Some wildlife still lives in set had captured the exact look and the hills, and the most visible are the Top left: Gaborone Golf Course; Top: A climb up Kgale Hill feel of bygone Gaborone. The set will ubiquitous baboon troupes. The climb is great weekend fun; Middle: Boating is one of the many eventually be opened to visitors. ‘Mma takes approximately one hour. activities at the Gaborone Yacht Club, Gaborone Dam; Ramotswe’ tours – visiting the various Above: The No. 1 Ladies’ Detective Agency film set.

12 Activities

Game drives TheMusic , DArtsance, Drama Rhino tracking Cheetah visits One of the greatest attractions of living Elephant walks in, or visiting, Gaborone is its dynamic Guided walks music and dance scene. The happy, Giraffe tracking infectious, soulful music of Botswana, Horse-back safari and southern Africa, is everywhere, Bird watching and is one of the most exciting aspects Picnic and bush braii of culture to experience here. And it Camping is rarely performed without fabulous O Shopping dancing. Golf Regularly staged performances in traditional, rock, pop, jazz, classical – Theatre just about every kind of music imaginable Cultural tourism – can best be seen at the Maitisong Museum visits Cultural Centre, situated at Maru a Pula Historical and Secondary School campus (Tel: +267 National Monuments 397-1809); other venues include the Botanical Garden Alliance Française (Tel: +267 365-1650) Arts and Crafts and Botswanacraft (Tel: +267 392- Sightseeing 2487). There are many jazz clubs and Pottery nightclubs in town, or in surrounding Restaurants areas, and several of the hotels have in- Water Park house musicians who perform on the weekends. Check the local media or the Casinos Botswana Advertiser for listings. Nightclubs Pubs Art Exhibitions

In addition to the Art Gallery at the National Museum, arts and crafts exhibitions, by both local and international artists, are regularly held at the Alliance Française (Tel: +267 365- 1650) and Botswanacraft (Tel: +267 392- 2487).

Casinos

Gaborone has three casinos, at the Grand Palm Hotel (Tel: +267 363-7777), the Gaborone Hotel (Tel: +267 392- Music and dance 2777) and at the Gaborone Sun Hotel performances (Tel: +267 361-6000). take place nearly every weekend at venues around the city. COMPANION to... SOUTHERN BOTSWANA Travel Day trips heading South Mokolodi NATURE Reserve It holds regularly scheduled lectures, disabled or orphaned animals that as well as annual events, such as for one reason or another cannot be For nature and wildlife lovers, Easter and Christmas day excursions returned to the wild, and an animal Mokolodi is the closest excursion from for children, and the Mokolodi clinic that treats sick or injured Gaborone that offers a wide variety of Photography Competition. animals. activities for the entire family. Situated Wildlife resident in the reserve Facilities include camping sites, approximately 10 kilometres south include kudu, warthog, duiker, giraffe, chalets, picnic sites, an education of Game City, on the main Lobatse steenbok, zebra, blue wildebeest, centre, museum and library, the Road, the five-square kilometre gemsbok, ostrich, impala, springbok, World’s View Conference and Freserve is comprised of riverine terrain waterbuck, baboons, vervet monkeys, Function Centre, The Alexander interspersed with rocky hills, with the mountain reedbuck, eland, bushbuck McCall Smith Traditional Rest Camp, very picturesque Lake Gwithian and and leopard. A highly successful white as well as a lovely stone and thatch adjoining picnic site. rhino reintroduction and breeding restaurant that gives a beautiful view Mokolodi offers game drives, programme now puts the white rhino of the surrounding bush. guided walks, horse-back safari, rhino population in the reserve at eight. Environmental education for tracking, giraffe tracking, walks with Mokolodi also houses a reptile Botswana children is a major mandate trained elephants, and cheetah visits. park, and a wildlife sanctuary for of the nature reserve; and each year

14 thousands of schoolchildren come for courses, sleeping in the dormitories, or on camp outs. For more information or bookings, Tel: +267 316-1955.

LION PARK RESORT

Approximately five kilometres further south of Mokolodi, the recently opened Lion Park Resort, situated at the former Lion Park, adds a new dimension to fun family outings. Here kids can let loose on water slides, the Lion Park Resort. valley of the waves, swimming pools and other water features, as well as a variety of rides. Great for those sizzling summer days! Tel: +267 397- Gaborone’s Game City. Called the albums, bags, book-markers and 3700. ‘Lovers’ Hill,’ (‘Lentswe la Baratani’), fuel briquettes from discarded paper. it carries a legend about two young Broken bits of tiles are used to make Otse lovers who were refused permission photo and mirror frames, lampshades to marry. Despondent, they both flung and furniture decoration. Flanked by the Otse Mountains, themselves off the cliff to their deaths. Browsing is encouraged, and including the country’s highest – Otse The hill is regarded as sacred; and purchases can be made directly from Peak (1,491m) – the picturesque historically Batswana would neither the factory. village of Otse has a number of climb the hill, nor point to it. Turning left at the Otse signpost, attractions, not the least of which are Just after Baratani Hill, still on and driving through the village, one the many wonderful climbing and the main road, and before the turn- crosses a pretty river valley where hiking options in the area. off to the village, are a cheese factory cattle and goats are usually grazing. The most prominent hill is (locally made) and adjoining café, and The Mannyelanong Game Reserve Day trips heading South Baratani Hill, on the west side of Botlhale Jwa Phala, a paper factory is visible from here, and provides a the road, about 40 kilometres from that produces invitation cards, photo dramatic backdrop to the landscape.

Lentswe la Baratani, or ‘Lovers’ Hill’ in Otse; Right: Vulture at the Mannyelanong Game Reserve. St. Mark’s Church, Lobatse; right: The home of Kgosi Bathoen I.

The reserve was established in the vultures’ food has become scarcer, hundreds of kilometres through 1985 on Balete Tribal Land for the with the result that chicks suffer from Kalahari sands for sale to the BMC. protection of the Cape vultures that calcium deficiency due to lack of bone Cattle farming is the country’s third nest at its south end. The four-square in their diet. Since the establishment largest revenue earner, and its high kilometre area encompasses a single, of the reserve, vulture populations quality, free-roaming beef is primarily red sandstone hill. Visitors can climb there have stabilised. exported to the United Kingdom and the hill, but the south end is fenced, the European Union. Tours to the BMC and cannot be entered, to prevent Lobatse can be arranged through the General disturbance to the vultures at their Manager Operations, Tel: +267 533- nesting sites. Entrance to the reserve The entrance (from the Gaborone 1292. is through the Department of Wildlife road) to this pleasant town set amongst The first major tribal settlement in and National Parks offices in Otse, hills and stands of tall trees is a shady, the area was a Bangwaketse village, and is free. tree-lined avenue. One passes the built in the late 18th century. Later, The Cape Vulture is an endangered country’s High Court, as well as the because of conflict with neighbouring species and fully protected under the Botswana Meat Commission (BMC), groups, they moved west to their laws of Botswana. Cape vultures have one of Africa’s largest abbatoirs and present capital, Kanye. nested in Mannyelanong for hundreds meat-processing operations. A construction camp and railway of years, but in the last 30 years or Lobatse, approximately 70 kms siding were built in 1896, the latter so their numbers have diminished south of Gaborone, is the last stop for servicing Cecil Rhodes’ railway line considerably. With human expansion, cattle farmers trekking their livestock that ran north to Southern Rhodesia.

16 Scene from Polokwe Viewpoint, en route to Kanye.

17 The London Missionary Society Church, Kanye.

The original railway station no longer Kanye lodges or guest houses. stands, but Botswana Railways still The Polokwe Viewpoint, situated runs through the town, then passing One of the most scenic routes in about ten kilometres north of Kanye on through Gaborone, and towns further southern Botswana is the Gaborone the Thamaga road, gives a breathtaking north, before reaching Francistown. to Kanye drive (approximately 80 kms view of the northern valley, particularly There are several interesting southwest of Gaborone). The road at sunrise and sunset. From the Gorge, archaeological remains to be seen gently climbs and descends, giving near Seepapitso Secondary School, around Lobatse. Some are on private entrance to gently rolling grasslands interesting, and very beautiful, walks land and require permission to visit. rich in trees and shrubs, quaint vistas can be taken – lush in vegetation, These include stone walling from of agricultural lands and grazing with good birding possibilities. Stone the Ngwaketse village, situated on livestock, and tiny villages nestled wall settlements are also visible along Lobatse Estates, and the earlier Seoke between rock-strewn hills. the way. According to oral history, stone wall settlement built by the Home of the Bangwaketse people the Gorge is the place where the Bangwaketse around 1770. who settled in the area in the mid- Bangwaketse hid from Mzilikazi’s Just outside the town, on the 19th century, Kanye is the longest Ndebele raids in the area. Just north main Mafikeng road, there are rock continuously occupied capital village of the village and near the dam lies a paintings of wildebeest – though now in Botswana. There are a number of bird sanctuary. quite faded, probably painted by Khoe interesting places to see in Kanye, Kanye’s main kgotla (village herders, and possibly dating between so plan on a full day excursion from meeting place and customary court) is 1000 to 1700AD. Gaborone, or a night-over at one of its full of interesting historical buildings,

18 including the former residence of Kgosi (Chief) Bathoen I, the original tribal offices, built in 1914 by Seepapitso III, and nearby, the former residence of the late Kgosi Bathoen II. As well, there are several old churches to explore, the oldest being the London Missionary Church, built in 1894. The proper courtesy is to first go to the kgotla offices and inform officials that you wish to visit the kgotla, at which point you will be warmly welcomed, and shown around. The delightful Motse Lodge houses a cultural centre, where traditional arts and crafts are being revitalised, and a museum, which holds artifacts from the area. Tel: +267 548-0363.

Jwaneng

Fittingly named, the Jwaneng Diamond Mine – the richest diamond mine in the world – is situated in south-central Botswana, on the fringes of the Kgalagadi, approximately 80 kms west of Kanye. Jwaneng means ‘a place of small stones.’ The mine has established and Owned and operated by supports the nearby Jwana Game Debswana, a partnership between the Park, which is home to a number of diamond mining magnate DeBeers indigenous wildlife species, excluding and the Botswana Government, the large predators. There is, however, Jwaneng has been in operation since a Cheetah Conservation Botswana 1982, and has consistently contributed field unit in the park. And in 2007, a large share of Botswana’s total ore two white rhinos were introduced output. In 2007, the mine produced into the park from the Khama Rhino approximately 13.5 million carats Sanctuary. from 10.3 million tonnes of ore. Members of the public are The mine’s accompanying welcome to visit the game park, and township (population, 15,000) is tours of the diamond mine can be an open one, and tourists can drive booked through the Jwaneng Mine Top: Visitors touring the Jwaneng Diamond Mine are through the township and make use Public Relations Office, tel: +267 dwarfed by the immense vehicles used to transport ore; of its facilities, such as petrol stations, 588-4245. Above: The open cast mine. restaurants or guest houses.

19 COMPANION to... SOUTHERN BOTSWANA Travel Day trips heading West

Martin with his work at Pelegano Village Industry.

20 Gabane

Approximately 15 kms from Gaborone, this lovely village set amongst hills is wonderful for walking and exploring on foot. It is home Day trips heading West to the Pelegano Village Industry, a development estate that houses a number of different village ventures, Aincluding a glass factory, metal works and a sorghum milling plant. The pottery factory and shop feature uniquely designed tableware, vases, and decorative items. The Veld Products Research centre welcomes casual visitors. This is an innovative research and development organisation that promotes the sound management of veldt products in SADC (Southern African Above: A potter at work in Gabane; Development Community) countries, Below: Site of David Livingstone’s final as well as investigates the potential mission, Kolobeng. for domesticating indigenous plants for sale.

Thamaga

This picturesque village, situated southwest of Gaborone, is set amongst large granite boulders. It is best known for its very beautiful pottery, of the same name, and its factory has been in operation for more than 30 years. A wide range of top quality products is available, from tea and coffee sets, to platters, to candle holders, to full tableware sets, all in keeping with its inimitable designs.

Kolobeng

The site of David Livingstone’s third and final mission station was Kolobeng, approximately 20 kms west of Gaborone, past Gabane. Here he built the house and church where he and his wife Mary would work to convert the local Bakwena to Christianity. Their daughter Elizabeth, who died at the age of six weeks, is buried here. What remains now is the foundation of the house. Kolobeng is gazetted as a National Monument, and you can only gain entry through the custodian.

Bahurutshe Cultural Village

This delightful diversion is a recreated Hurutshe village offering accommodation (in traditional rondavels), arts, crafts and dancing, and Sunday brunch with local cuisine. Educational cultural tours for schoolchildren are frequently conducted. Tel: +267 72-928-625.

Manyana

Perhaps the most visited rock painting site in the Gaborone area, the paintings are spread over five separate areas of rock cliff face. Images include giraffe, antelope, human figures and geometric designs, all of which date from between 1100 and 1700AD. They were in all likelihood made by Khoe (click-speaking) herders. Gazetted as a National Monument, the site is fenced, and you can only gain entry through the custodian. At the south end of the village stands Livingstone’s Tree, under which the great explorer is said to have preached. This old, massive fig tree – now fenced off – rests on its branches Manyana rock that now touch the ground. paintings.

22 Exhibits at the Kgosi Sechele I Museum, Molepolole; Left: Dance performance at the Bahurutshe Cultural Village.

Molepolole

Often referred to as ‘Gateway to the the village. Housed in what once was down the main road. Kalahari,’ Molepolole is the last major the colonial police station (1902), its Just outside Molepolole, on the settlement one passes on the way to exhibitions seek to preserve the fast Thamaga Road, is Livingstone’s Cave. Khutse Game Reserve. Home to the disappearing culture of the Bakwena Despite warnings from the Kwena Bakwena people, on and off for the people. The Museum offers an arts tribal magician that he would die if past four hundred years, their tradition and crafts programme, educational he entered the cave, Livingstone did of building stone walls around their programmes for schoolchildren, and so and emerged alive. It is believed courtyards is still practised by some guided tours of the village. that Chief Sechele’s brief conversion families. The Scottish Livingstone Church, to Christianity was prompted by this A modern façade covers the situated on the main road is still a event. bustling town centre, now full of very prominent landmark. It was every manner of shop. built early in the 20th century, and The Kgosi Sechele I Museum is in the 1930s established the Scottish one of the major points of interest in Livingstone Hospital, situated further

23 COMPANION to... SOUTHERN BOTSWANA Travel Day trips heading North Oodi Weavers Mochudi Recognised by large logs set vertically in the ground in a semi- The Lentswe-la-Oodi Weavers is a Mochudi is home to the Bakgatla circle, this is the village meeting Swedish-initiated cooperative (1973) people, who migrated from present- place and customary court, a focal situated in Oodi village, approximately day South Africa in 1871 to escape point of the village. Nearby is a stone- 20 kms north of Gaborone, on the Boer encroachment of their walled enclosure where stray cattle Francistown Road. The weavers – lands. They settled at the base of and/or cattle that are being disputed, mostly women who now fully own Phuthadikobo Hill and along the are kept. Two Kgatla chiefs, Kgosi the cooperative – produce hand- Ngotwane River. Like most major Linchwe Khamanyane Pilane (who woven wall hangings, tapestries, villages in Botswana, Mochudi is a ruled between 1875 and 1924) and Trunners, napkins, cushion covers, mixture of old and new, traditional Kgosi Molefi Kgafela Pilane (who ruled jackets, and bedspreads, all designed and modern, as is best seen through between 1929 and 1958) are buried by the weavers themselves. The wool changing architectural preferences in here. Also nearby are two traditional is hand-woven and hand-dyed. Most housing. rondavels, beautifully maintained, designs depict rural scenes, animals A tour of the village is best begun and good examples of how village or geometric patterns. at the kgotla, signposted on the main housing once looked. Interested customers can order road through the village, and situated A small path up the hill from the originally designed pieces. Visitors near the tribal administration offices. It kgotla leads to the Phuthadikobo are encouraged to browse the factory, is proper courtesy to present yourself at Museum. Packed with information and the adjacent shop. the offices and ask permission to visit. about Mochudi’s history, the Museum

24 is a reflector of cultural change in Botswana. Its collection of historical photographs shows women making pottery, blacksmiths operating bellows, chiefs making rain, houses being decorated, and boys’ and Opposite page: Lentswe la Oodi weaver; Day trips heading North girls’ initiation rites. Artifacts include Above left: Oxcart on display at the pottery, basketry and other traditional Phuthadikobo Museum, Mochudi; Right: utensils, weaponry, as well as Regent Matsieng Footprints. Isang’s rain-making pots. The building was originally a school built by Regent Isang Pilane Matsieng Footprints in 1921. It was the first school in Botswana to offer secondary local arts and crafts, and silkscreen Further north on the main road, education and became a museum products made there. just after the village of Rasesa, this in 1976. It has steadily expanded Another building of interest is the National Monument consists of a its stock of artifacts and historical Deborah Retief Memorial Church, slab of sandstone pierced by two photographs. It holds a number of administered by the Dutch Reformed deep holes, as well as engravings. fascinating photographs donated Mission, located just after the turn-off Legend says that the first ancestor by Professor Isaac Schapera, the to the kgotla. This was built by the of the Batswana, Matsieng – a giant, world-renowned anthropologist who Bakgatla in 1903 and is still in use one-legged man, climbed out of one chronicled in meticulous detail the today. hole, followed by his people, their life and culture of the Batswana, and The Pilane Leatherworks, situated domestic animals, and wildlife. The the changes rapidly taking place in near the railway tracks crossover, engravings – now very faint – were their lives in the 20th century, nearly near the Francistown Road, produce probably made by Khoe herders, and up to his death in the year 2000. There sturdy and long-lasting leather shoes, date to the beginning of the second is a small shop in the Museum selling sandals, purses and handbags. millennium.

25 Botswana at a Glance

Location: Botswana is a land-locked country situated in southern Africa. It borders South Africa, Namibia, Zambia and Zimbabwe. Approximately two-thirds of the country lies within the Tropics. Country Size: Botswana covers an area of 581 730 square kilometres – about the size of France or Kenya. Topography: Most of the country is flat, with some small hills in the eastern areas. Kalahari sands cover 84 percent of the surface area. With the exception of the northern areas, most of Botswana is without perennial surface water. Capital: Gaborone Urban centres: Francistown, Lobatse, Selebi-Phikwe Tourism centres: Maun, Kasane Independence day: 30 September 1966 Government: Multi-party democracy Head of State: His Excellency Lt. Gen. Seretse Khama Ian Khama Population: 1.85 million, with an average annual growth rate of 2.4 % (2006 statistics) National language: Setswana Official language: English Currency: Pula Main exports: Diamonds, copper nickel, beef, soda ash, tourism Major crops: Maize, sorghum, millet Visitor Information

Accommodation 33 Firewood 34 National Parks – Central Botswana 33 Banks and Banking Hours 31 Fishing 34 National Parks – Northern Botswana 33 Boats (importing) 29 Gaborone Game Reserve 33 National Parks – Southern Botswana 33 Central Kalahari Game Reserve 33 Gazetted Border Posts 28 National Parks – Western Botswana 33 Chobe National Park 33 Getting Around in Towns 28 Nxai Pan National Park 33 Communications 31 Getting There 28 Office Hours 31 Consumer Goods (importing) 30 Health 32 Pets (importing) 29 Credit cards 31 HIV/AIDS 32 Plants (importing) 30 Crime 32 Importation of Goods 30 Restricted Goods (importing) 30 Currency 31 Khutse Game Reserve 33 Safety 32 Customs 29 Luggage Restrictions 29 Self Drive Camping 34 Diamond Purchase 31 Makgadikgadi Pans National Park 33 Shopping 32 Distance Chart 18-4 Malaria 32 Sun and Heat-Related Problems 32 Drinking Water 32 Mannyelanong Game Reserve 34 Time 31 Drivers’ Licenses 29 Maun Educational Park 33 Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park 33 Duty Free Allowances 29 Meat / Dairy Products (importing) 30 Travel Insurance 32 Electrical Supply 31 Money 31 Vaccinations 29 Emergency Numbers 34 Moremi Game Reserve 33 Value Added Tax 32 Entry Formalities 28 Motor Vehicles (importing) 29 What to Bring 30 Firearms & Ammunition 31 National Parks & Reserves 33 What to Wear 30

See page 35 for all local and international Botswana Tourism Board offices.

27 COMPANION Travel Most major international airlines from Most major roads in Botswana are tarred GETTING THERE Europe, the United States, Asia and and driving conditions are generally By Air Australia fly to Johannesburg, South good. The main roads to established Air Botswana, Botswana’s national and Africa, where connecting flights areas are regularly graded. Four-wheel only airline, provides international flights can be booked to Sir Seretse Khama drive is required when travelling in the between Gaborone and Johannesburg, International Airport in Gaborone, or to national parks and reserves, as well as Gaborone and Harare, Kasane and Maun. in remote areas. Johannesburg and Francistown and Johannesburg. Domestic flights run For flight details contact: Car and four-wheel drive rental services between Gaborone and Francistown, Air Botswana Central Reservations are widely available in major tourist Gaborone and Kasane, and the airline Tel: +267 395-1921 centres, airports and hotels. has recently re-introduced its Maun to Web: www.airbotswana.bw By Bus Kasane flight (three times per week). South African Express Tel: +267 397-2397 There are scheduled bus services Web: www.flysax.com across borders between Botswana and • Air Botswana has thrice daily South Africa, Zimbabwe, Namibia and flights between Gaborone and South African Airways Zambia, as well as good internal bus Johannesburg. Tel: +267 390-2210/12 services linking major and minor towns Web: wwwsaa.com • South African Airways has twice and villages across the country. daily flights between Johannesburg Air Namibia and Gaborone, during the week. Tel (South Africa): +27 11-978-5055 By Rail Tel (Namibia): +26 461-299-6444 There are no passenger train services in • South African Express has five Web: www.airnamibia.com.na flights daily between Johannesburg Botswana. Cargo services run on a daily basis. and Gaborone, during the week. By Road • Air Botswana has daily flights from Botswana is accessible by tarred road For more information consult: Johannesburg direct to Maun. from South Africa, Zimbabwe, Zambia The Botswana Railways website: • Air Namibia flies Windhoek to and Namibia. Vehicles are driven on www.botswanarailways.co.bw Maun every day of the week, the left hand side of the road. A valid except Tuesday and Thursday. international driver’s license, along Getting around in towns with vehicle registration documents, Taxis are normally a convenient way to get • Air charter services are also are required to drive in Botswana, and around in towns and are reasonably priced. available. drivers should always carry them. They are easily identified in designated stations or can be contacted by telephone. Taxis to Gaborone are also available from Sir Gazetted Border Posts Seretse Khama International Airport. Ramatlabama 06h00–22h00 Botswana /Namibia Pioneer Gate 06h00–00h00 ENTRY FORMALITIES Mamuno 07h00–00h00 McCarthy Rest 08h00–16h00 Ngoma 07h00–18h00 Visas Mohembo 06h00–18h00 Botswana/ Zimbabwe Citizens of most European and Common- Kazungula 06h00–18h00 wealth countries do not require a visa for Botswana / SOUTH AFRICA Pandamatenga 08h00–17h00 entry into Botswana. Pont Drift (Tuli) 08h00–16h00 Ramokgwebana 06h00–22h00 Martin’s Drift 06h00–22h00 Visitors should check with Botswana Tlokweng Gate 06h00–00h00 Botswana / Zambia embassies or consulates, or their travel Ramotswa (Bridge) 07h00–19h00 Kazungula (Ferry) 06h00–18h00 agents, before departure.

28 It is vital for visitors to carry a valid flights), and 20kgs (44lbs) on international Duty free allowances passport and sufficient funds to flights. facilitate their stay. Vaccinations Customs duties are not charged on Note: For countries with whom Botswana If you are travelling to Botswana from the following goods imported as has no diplomatic representation, visa areas infected with Yellow Fever, accompanied or unaccompanied information and processing is available you must have a valid Yellow Fever passengers’ baggage: through British Embassies and High vaccination certificate. Otherwise, Commissions. no other immunisations are required. Wines ...... 2 litres However, it would be wise to have an Luggage Restrictions updated TPD (tetanus, polio, diphtheria) Spirituous*...... 1 litre It is advisable to adhere to the luggage vaccine, and a Hepatitis A vaccine. Cigarettes ...... 200 restrictions for both scheduled international, domestic and charter flights: 20kgs (44lbs) Cigars ...... 20 Customs on domestic flights, 12kgs (26lbs) on light Tobacco** ...... 250 gms All goods acquired outside Botswana must aircraft (including Okavango Delta charter be declared when you enter the country. Perfume ...... 50 ml Toilet water...... 250 ml Customs OFFICES Boats No boat, mokoro or aquatic apparatus * Includes all other alcoholic HEADQUARTERS may be imported into Botswana, unless beverages Private Bag 0041, Gaborone the owner is in possession of an import ** Includes cigarette and pipe Tel: +267 363-8000 / 363-9999 permit issued by the Department of tobacco Fax: +267 392-2781 Water Affairs. Note: Duty will be payable at the Regional Offices For more information contact: applicable rates where travellers South Region Department of Water Affairs import goods exceeding the above P.O. Box 263, Lobatse P/Bag 0029, Gaborone allowances. Travellers importing Tel: +267 533-0566, Tel: +267 360-7100 goods for business or commercial Fax: +267 533-2477 purpose will not qualify for the above allowances. South Central Region Pets Private Bag 00102, Gaborone The importation of animals is closely Tel: +267 363-8000 / 363-9999 regulated for public health reasons and Fax: +267 392-2781 also for the well being of the animals. Drivers’ Licenses Domestic pets and livestock may be Drivers are required to carry their Central Region imported subject to animal health licenses at all times. Licenses from P.O. Box 129, Selebi-Phikwe restrictions. neighbouring countries are accepted Tel: +267 261-3699 / 261-0627 in Botswana. If not written in English, a Fax: +267 261-5367 For more information contact: certified written translation is required. Director of Animal Health & Production North Region International drivers’ licenses are P.O. Box 457, Francistown P/Bag 0032, Gaborone accepted in Botswana. Tel: +267 241-3635 Tel: +267 395-0500 Fax: +267 241-3114 Importation of Motor Vehicles Note: A valid certificate of identity, Non-residents visiting Botswana and North West Region rabies vaccination and movement permit coming from a country outside the issued in Lesotho, Malawi, South Africa, P.O. Box 219, Maun Southern African Common Customs Swaziland, Namibia or Zimbabwe will be Tel: +267 686-1312 Area for a limited period are normally Fax: +267 686-0194 accepted at the time of importation into Botswana. required to produce a carnet or bill of entry (any duty liability thereon being

29 COMPANION Travel secured by bond or cash deposit) in respect of their motor vehicles. For IMPORTATION OF GOODS further information, please contact Department of Customs. Consumer Goods

Note: The Southern African Common The following consumer goods may For more information contact: Customs Area comprises Botswana, be imported for private use without Ministry of Agriculture, Enquiries Lesotho, South Africa, Swaziland and an import permit, provided they do P/Bag 003, Gaborone Namibia. not exceed the maximum allowable Tel +267 395-0500 quantities. Key: PP-per person. PF-per family MEAT / DAIRY PRODUCTS WHAT TO BRING The regulations on importing meat Product Max products change frequently, because Binoculars, torch, insect repellent, lip TYPE quantity they are based on disease outbreaks salve, sunscreen, sunglasses. Cosmetics, in different countries. Always ask medications, and cigarettes are all Meat customs officials upon arrival what available in the major towns, but if Red meat, goat/lamb 25 kg PF are the specific regulations. specific brand names are needed, it is Poultry meat 5 kg PP best to bring enough to last your stay. Tinned poultry meat 20 kg PP For more information contact: Ministry of Agriculture, Enquiries Dairy However, care needs to be taken to P/Bag 003, Gaborone Eggs 36 eggs PP Tel +267 395-0500 comply with international aviation Fresh milk 2 litres PP security regulations for items in carry on luggage. Contact your airline for Others Restricted Goods details. Maize / maize products 25 kg PP These are goods that can only be Wheat 25 kg PP imported with a license or permit. Pulses (beans, peas, lentils) 25 kg PP Sorghum / sorghum 25 kg PP • Narcotic, habit forming drugs and WHAT TO WEAR products related substances in any form; • In summer, lightweight, light- Cabbage, Onions 1 bag PP • Firearms, ammunition and coloured cottons are preferable. Potatoes, Oranges, explosives; • Garments of neutral colours that Tomatoes, Chimolia, blend with the bush and forest • Indecent and obscene material Rape, Spinach are advisable for safaris and game such as pornographic books, viewing. Bread loaves 6 per week magazines, films, videos, DVDs • Avoid synthetic materials and and software. black clothing, as they increase perspiration and discomfort. • Closed, comfortable walking shoes • Bring a lightweight jacket and/or or gym shoes are a must in all Plants jersey for unexpected temperature seasons. Plants may be imported subject to changes or rain. • Special attention should be given plant health restrictions, and South • In winter, wear trousers, long- to protection from the sun. Bring a African transit permits may also be sleeved shirts / blouses and jerseys. sunhat, good quality sunscreen, sun required in respect of plants shipped • From May – August, night lotion and polarised sunglasses. through South Africa. temperatures can fall below zero • Wide brimmed hats are preferable degrees celsius, so warm jerseys to baseball caps. and jackets are vital, especially on morning and evening game drives.

30 divided into 100 thebe (meaning COMMUNICATIONS ‘shield’ in Setswana). ELECTRICAL SUPPLY Most of Botswana is networked by Electricity is supplied at 220/240v. Both Travellers’ cheques and foreign currency automatic telephone exchanges, with square and round wall plugs are used. public telephones in even the most may be changed at banks, bureaux de remote places. change, and authorised hotels.

The International access code in The US dollar, Euros, British Pound and FIREARMS & AMMUNITION the South African Rand are the most Botswana is 00. When calling The issue of firearms licenses in easily convertible currencies. international to Botswana, dial +267. Botswana is strictly controlled, and all firearms imported under the authority Automatic teller machines accept Cellular phone coverage is provided of an import permit must be licensed foreign visa cards, but are mostly found by three mobile networks in Botswana: immediately upon arrival in Botswana. in larger towns and cities. Cultural sites Mascom, Orange and be Mobile. The importation of firearms that do not and community art and craft outlets Mobile Sim cards are available in most have the manufacturer’s serial number usually only accept cash. supermarkets and service stations. All or other number by which they can major towns in Botswana are network Banks be identified, stamped or engraved on covered, as well as portions of the a metal part of the weapon is totally national highway. Seven main commercial banks, as well as a number of foreign exchange prohibited. bureaux, operate in Botswana. Mobile networks in Botswana offer It should also be noted that police various services to their subscribers, Banking hours: permits for firearms are issued on a including Internet access, fax, and limited quota basis, and there can be a International Roaming. It is always Monday to Friday 8:30-15:30 Saturday 8:30 to 10:45. considerable delay in obtaining a permit, important to seek advice about network particularly on first importation. It is services so as to choose one that will advisable for intending importers to make work for you. Credit cards Major credit cards, such as MasterCard applications well in advance of dispatch, and Visa, are accepted throughout the so that unnecessary inconvenience and Using a cellular phone whilst driving is expenses can be avoided. against the law in Botswana, and liable country, in most hotels, restaurants, retail outlets and safari companies. to a P300 fine. Earphones or hands-free Police permits for firearms are issued by: devices are recommended. However, shops in remote areas and service stations may only accept cash. Central Arms, The Registry P O Box 334, Gaborone. For further information on the network Tel: +267 391-4202, +267 391-4106 providers in Botswana, consult the following services: OFFICE HOURS

MASCOM www.mascom.co.bw Government Offices / Departments DIAMOND PURCHASE 7:30 - 12:45 and 13:45 - 16:30 ORANGE www.orange-botswana.co.bw Visitors to Botswana have the BTC www.btc.co.bw Business 8:00 - 13:00 and 14:00 - 17:00 opportunity to purchase diamond be Mobile www.be-mobile.co.bw Shops 9:00 - 18:00 Monday to Friday, jewellery from authorised dealers. A 9:00 - 15:00 Saturday strict certification system is in place 9:00 - 13:00 Sunday to inform the buyer of the origin of MONEY the diamond, and the stated value and quality is verified. Currency TIME The Botswana currency is the Pula (meaning ‘rain’ in Setswana). It is GMT plus 2 hours

31 COMPANION Travel HIV/AIDS hour convenience shops at most fuel HEALTH Visitors are advised to take the necessary service stations. Botswana is one of the healthiest precautions against HIV/AIDS and other countries in sub-Saharan Africa, with Sexually Transmitted Diseases. There is an increasing range of local arts good primary health care facilities and crafts on sale in Gaborone, Maun available throughout the country. Malaria and Kasane and other tourist areas; they However, the following health Malaria, including cerebral malaria, is include Botswana’s renowned world- precautions are advised. common in northern Botswana, in the class baskets, woodcarvings, jewellery, Okavango and Chobe areas, particularly pottery, tapestries, fabrics and clothing, Travel insurance during and immediately following the glassware, and San crafts. It is essential for visitors to remote areas rainy season, from November to April. of Botswana to have a comprehensive Value Added Tax medical insurance policy, to provide As the strains of malaria, and the drugs To claim 10% VAT refund for total value coverage for the treatment of serious used to combat them, frequently change, of goods purchased, the amount spent illnesses/accidents, and if required, and as certain strains can become drug should be more than P5 000. In such medical evacuation. Personal effects resistant, it is best to seek medical cases, the following is required: a tax insurance is also advisable. advice before your departure and take invoice stating VAT paid, your passport any medication prescribed. Pregnant or number and your bank account details. Check that your insurance policy will very young children are not advised to be accepted by service providers in travel to malarial areas. It is always advisable to keep a copy of Botswana. Ensure that you are treated the VAT form as a record for any follow- by licensed medical personnel to enable Other precautions are: to wear long up on the transaction. you to provide your insurance company sleeves, socks, closed shoes, and with appropriate documentation and generally keep the body covered, to VAT claims usually can be made at all receipts. sleep with a mosquito net and to use major border posts and airports. mosquito coils and repellent. Reasonably priced medical services are available at government clinics and Sun and heat-related problems SAFETY hospitals throughout the country. Private Always take preventive measures that medical practitioners are available in include wearing a wide-brimmed sunhat The self-drive camper driving the open the cities and major towns, such as and sunglasses, liberally applying roads in Botswana should always drive at a Gaborone, Francistown and Maun. sunscreen every three or four hours, reasonable speed, and avoid over-taking, regularly taking rehydration mixes, except when absolutely necessary. Gaborone Private Hospital is the largest drinking plenty of water and fruit juices private hospital in Botswana. The (at least three litres of liquid daily), Crime hospital requires medical coverage, avoiding prolonged exposure to the Botswana remains a relatively safe place or cash payment in advance where sun, and avoiding excessive amounts of to visit or live. Take the normal precautions medical coverage is not available. alcohol, which causes dehydration. you would take anywhere else:

Drinking water • Always lock car doors; Tap water throughout the country is Shopping • Always lock hotel rooms; safe to drink. Bottled mineral water • Don’t leave valuables in cars or is readily available in most shops All major towns in Botswana, including hotel rooms; and supermarkets, and at camps and Maun and Kasane, have shopping • Take care with your bags in shopping lodges. centres and supermarkets, and all basic centres and other crowded places, commodities can easily be purchased. and after coming out of banks or Tourists travelling by road are advised to Many regional chain stores operate in ATM kiosks; carry sufficient water at all times. Botswana. In addition, there are 24- • Avoid walking alone at night.

32 For park camping reservations, contact: Accommodation Climate: Hot, extreme daytime Department of Wildlife & National Parks conditions All major towns and villages in the Gaborone Office: P.O. Box 131, Gaborone Rainfall: 500mm per annum country have hotels, lodges, motels Tel: +267 318-0774, Fax: +267 391-2354 Altitude: 930m to 1000m above sea level and guesthouses, catering to a range Maun Office: P.O. Box 11, Maun of budgets, and some have camping Tel: +267 686-1265, Fax: +267 686-1264 Maun Educational Park facilities. In and around parks and Situated on the eastern banks of the reserves, there are a variety of lodges, as Offices can be emailed on [email protected] Thamalakane River, the park is an well as camps in private concessions. Note: If you cannot honour your education centre for schoolchildren; it reservations, please cancel well in has a variety of wildlife species that can Camping facilities are widely available advance to give others a chance. be viewed from game hides. around the country, both at private When to visit: all year round lodges and/or hotels, and within the Northern Botswana government parks and reserves. Chobe National Park Central Botswana A park abundant in wildlife, offering a Central Kalahari Game Reserve Visit www.botswanatourism.co.bw for safari experience of a lifetime. The world’s second largest reserve, 2 graded accommodation facilities. Size: 11 700 km holding vast open plains, scrub bush, salt When to visit: all year round pans, ancient riverbeds, and sand dunes. Rainfall: 600mm per annum Size: 52 800 km2 Altitude: 930m to 1000m above sea level When to visit: all year round National parks & reserves Climate: Hot, dry conditions Botswana’s extensive system of national Moremi Game Reserve Rainfall: 150mm per annum parks and game reserves comprises Described as one of the most beautiful Altitude: 600m to 1600m above sea level wildlife reserves in Africa. approximately 17% of national land 2 area. A further 18% of national land Size: 5 000 km Khutse Game Reserve is allocated as Wildlife Management When to Visit: all year round Characterised by undulating plains Areas which act as buffer zones around Climate: Temperatures range from and dry Kalahari bush savannah, with o o the parks and reserves. about 14 Celsius (July) to 24 Celsius an extensive mineral pan system in the (January) reserve, which attracts animals. 2 The parks are primarily unfenced, Rainfall: 525mm per annum, varying Size: 2,500 km allowing wildlife to freely roam, are Altitude: 930m to 1000m above sea level When to visit: all year round situated in a variety of habitats and for the most part are well managed. Nxai Pan National Park Western Botswana Once part of a prehistoric lake that Kgalagadi TransFrontier Park Camping facilities are available in all covered central Botswana, this park Famous for its large antelope herds, national parks and reserves. Campsites is now transformed into fossil pans this is Africa’s first peace park, where typically have standpipes and ablution covered with grassland that attract an animals roam freely across the national abundance of game. borders of Botswana and South Africa. blocks, with toilets and showers. 2 Size: 2 578 km Size: 36 000 km2 All camping in the national parks and When to visit: all year round When to visit: all year round reserves is in designated campsites, Climate: Hot, extreme daytime Climate: Hot, dry conditions and campers are not allowed to camp conditions Rainfall: 200mm per annum, varying elsewhere in the parks. Altitude: 900m to 1100m above sea level Makgadikgadi Pans NATIONAL PARK Reservations for camping in national Part of one of the world’s largest saltpans Southern Botswana and prehistoric lakes. parks and reserves should be made 2 Gaborone Game Reserve prior to departure. Size: 12 000 km Nestled in the city and a popular spot When to visit: all year round for city residents, the park offers game

33 COMPANION Travel and bird viewing, picnic sites and an • Only camp in designated campsites. Fishing education centre. In the Panhandle area of the Okavango, Size: 500 Hectares • Always sleep in your tent, roof tent there are a number of camps and lodges When to visit: all year round or vehicle. Make sure your tent zips that specialise in fishing excursions. Rainfall: 510mm per annum up well. Fishing can also be done on the Chobe Altitude: 970m above sea level • Don’t sleep with legs or arms River, outside the park. Fishing is only protruding from the tent. allowed in designated areas of the Mannyelanong Game Reserve national parks, and only with an official The name of the park derives from the • Use rubbish receptacles at the permit. Cape Vulture, an endangered bird that campsites; if there are none, carry is protected; the area is fenced and the away all rubbish until you get to the For fishing permit enquiries, contact: birds can only be viewed from afar. next town. Department of Wildlife & National Parks When to visit: all year round • Cigarette butts should be well Gaborone Office: P.O. Box 131, extinguished and placed in a rubbish Gaborone Tel: +267 397-1405 bag, not thrown on the ground. Fax: +267 391-2354 / 393-2205 SELF DRIVE CAMPING • Make sure the campfire is well Maun Office: P.O Box 11, Maun Embarking on a camping trip in extinguished at the end of the Tel: +267 686-0368, Fax: +267 686-0053 Botswana requires a good deal of evening, or after use, and cover it Kasane Office: P.O. Box 17, Kasane planning and preparation. You will be with sand. Tel: +267 625-0486, Fax: +267 625-1623 going to remote areas, accessible only Note: Permits must be applied for in • Don’t sleep on bridges or animal by four-wheel drive, where water, petrol person. Both monthly and annual permits paths, particularly those of elephants or food may not be available. You may are issued. and hippos. often be driving on rough terrain, and Firewood through heavy sand, in conditions very • Bury all faecal matter and burn all Firewood is defined as wood that is different from those you are used to. toilet paper. both dead and fallen and which can be removed without the use of tools. As a general rule, take all food • Don’t bathe or drink from still bodies Self-drive campers should use firewood requirements to last your stay. Take of water; there is the danger of sparingly and only when necessary. at least 20 litres of water per person, bilharzia. preferably more; for desert destinations, • In the Okavango, don’t swim in carry between 50 and 100 litres. Carry lagoons or streams; there is the Emergency Numbers at least 100 litres of petrol in long-range danger of crocodiles and/or hippos. tanks or in metal jerry tins. Take spare vehicle parts for breakdowns. • Children must be constantly Ambulance 997 (toll free) supervised. Never leave them alone Police 999 (toll free) As campsites within game reserves and in the campsite. Never allow children national parks are usually not fenced, it is to nap on the ground or in the open. Fire Brigade 998 (toll free) important for campers to take necessary • Don’t stray far from the campsite, Medical Rescue 911 (toll free) precautionary measures to ensure their or walk in the bush, unless with a safety, and to abide by the information qualified guide. Medical Air Rescue 390-1601 provided by wildlife officers. Mascom 122 The general rule of thumb for camping The following basic camping rules in Botswana is – take only memories, Orange 112 should be strictly heeded: leave only footprints. be mobile 1333

34 BOTSWANA TOURISM BOARD CONTACTS

LOCAL Offices Offices and Agencies ABROAD

Headquarters Kasane Germany Private Bag 00275 P.O. Box 381 c/o Interface International Plot 50676, Fairgrounds Office Park Madiba Shopping Centre, Karl-Marx-Allee 91 A Gaborone, Botswana Opposite Bus Rank, next to The Bakery 10243 Berlin, Germany Tel: +267 391-3111 Kasane, Botswana Tel: +49 30-42-49-43 Fax: +267 395-9220 Tel: +267 625-0555 Fax: +49 30-42-25-62-86 [email protected] Tel: +267 625-2210/1 (airport office) Contact: Frank Hoffmann www.botswanatourism.co.bw Fax: +267 625-0424 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] Main Mall www.botswanatourism.de Cresta President Hotel, Ground Floor Maun Gaborone, Botswana P.O. Box 20068, Boseja United Kingdom Tel: +267 395-9455 Plot 246, Apollo House c/o Botswana High Commission Fax: +267 318-1373 Maun, Botswana 6 Stratford Place Tel: +267 686-1056 London, W1C 1AY Francistown Tel: +267 686-3093 (airport office) Tel: +44 207 499-0031 P.O. Box 301236 Fax: +267 686-1062 Fax: +44 207 495-8595 Plot 316 Shop D5 & D6, C.B.D, [email protected] Contact: Dawn Parr Ground floor of Diggers Inn Hotel, [email protected] Francistown, Botswana Palapye www.botswanatourism.org.uk Tel: +267 244-0113 P.O. Box 11040 Fax: +267 244-0120 Plot 3726, along the A1 Road, United States of America [email protected] Agrivert Building c/o Partner Concepts LLC Palapye, Botswana 127 Lubrano Drive, Suite 203 Ghanzi Tel: +267 492-2138 Annapolis, MD 21401 P.O. Box 282 Fax: +267 492-2147 Tel: +1 410 224-7688 Department of Tourism Building, [email protected] Fax: +1 410 224-1499 Opposite Shell Filling Station Contact: Leslee Hall Ghanzi, Botswana Tsabong [email protected] Tel: +267 659-6704 P.O. Box 688 www.botswanatourism.us Fax: +267 659-6706 Department of Tourism Building [email protected] Tsabong, Botswana Tel: +267 654-0822 Selebi-Phikwe Fax: +267 654-0813/4 P.O. Box 2885 [email protected] Lot 2574, Block 2, Shop 3B Central Business District Selebi-Phikwe, Botswana

35 credits:

Cover photo montage: ‘Three Kings Monument’ & ‘Traditional Dancer’, David Clift; ‘Rondaval’, Sarah Banks.

Inside front cover: Vincent Grafhorst. Inside back cover: Vincent Grafhorst.

Page 2-3: David Clift. Page 4: Clockwise from top left: Vincent Grafhorst; Mokolodi Nature Reserve; David Clift; David Clift; Eugenie Skelton; David Clift. Page 5: David Clift Page 6: David Clift. Page 7: Left: David Clift; Right: Vincent Grafhorst. Page 8: Clockwise from top left: David Clift; Vincent Grafhorst; David Clift; Vincent Grafhorst; Vincent Grafhorst. Page 10: David Clift. Page 11: Left: Somarelang Tikologo; Right: David Clift. Page 12: Clockwise from top left: www.tourismconsultancy.com; David Clift; David Clift; www.africainsight.com. Page 13: David Clift. Page 14: Mokolodi Nature Reserve. Page 15: Top: Kathern Ferreira. Bottom left: David Clift; Bottom right: Kerri Wolter. Page 16: Left: Vincent Grafhorst. Right: www.tourismconsultancy.com. Page 17: www.tourismconsultancy.com. Page 18: www.tourismconsultancy.com. Page 18-1: www.tourismconsultancy.com. Page 19: Gear V Adventures. Page 20: David Clift. Page 21: David Clift. Page 22: David Clift. Page 23: Left: Fabio Chironi. Right: David Clift. Page 24: David Clift. Page 25: David Clift. Page 26: Vincent Grafhorst. Page 27: Vincent Grafhorst.

Source: Guide to Greater Gaborone, by Alec Campbell and Mike Red-billed quelea fly over Main. Published by Alec Campbell and Mike Main, in association the dam at Mokolodi Nature with the Botswana Society, 2003. Reserve.

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The definitive travel guides to Botswana