T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
“Research shows that attractive people have more success in every aspect of life – career, friendships, money, and love.”
- 1 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Success Stories
"This book has been extremely helpful ... Most importantly, I'd say the program gave me confidence. I knew that I didn't look like a complete nerd anymore, and that helped me become way more social and outgoing.”
- Randy Michaels, New Jersey
"What an eye opener!! ... Right after I read your book I threw out more than half of my clothes, shaved off my nasty beard, and fixed my hair... getting compliments left and right now... THANK YOU!!!"
- Roy Robson, UK
“thanks to your book things are starting to get better in every aspect in my life.”
- Nader Essam, India
- 2 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
"Hey Mark ... I really liked your book. I bought it but did not know what to expect at all, but when I downloaded it I was very happy. It is easy to read (even for me when I don't speak English well).”
- Lars Jorgensen, Norway
"There's really no two ways around it... your book is something that every man should own. I've learned a lot of great stuff from it, and I truly think it's had an impact on my life. After I read the book, I noticed that girls actually care about things like hygeine and fashion. Who knew? Thanks again!”
- Benjamin Roberts, Oklahoma
"...This book practically doubled my self-confidence overnight...”
- Jason Lewis, Florida
- 3 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
How To Read This Book...
Like any book, The Handsome Factor is divided into a number of chapters. Each chapter is further divided into sections. You can click on the chapter or section titles in the Table of Contents to jump directly to a particular section.
As a general rule, the first few chapters contain more basic information. You may already know most of the things taught in these early chapters, but even so, I strongly advise encourage you to read the entire book. Each section has been designed to cover every possible topic, and chances are you’ll learn a few useful tidbits in every chapter.
In the second half of the book, more advanced topics are covered. For many readers, the final two chapters (hairstyle and fashion) will be the most useful. If you’re in a hurry, you may want to skip straight to the chapters that interest you the most (use the Table of Contents to skip to each section).
- 4 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Table of Contents
How To Read This Book...... 4
Terms & Conditions ...... 11
Acknowledgements ...... 13
Chapter One | ...... 14
My Epiphany ...... 14
The Science Behind Physical Appearance ...... 17
Chapter Two | Hygiene ...... 20
Oral Hygiene ...... 21
Tooth Brushing ...... 22
Flossing ...... 24
Rubber “Gum Stimulator” ...... 26
Waterpik ...... 28
Tongue Cleaning ...... 29
Mouthwash ...... 31
Bedtime Routine ...... 32
Chewing Gum ...... 34
General Hygiene ...... 35
Showering & Bathing ...... 35
- 5 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Deodorant ...... 38
Hygiene For Smokers ...... 39
Other Hygiene Tips ...... 41
The Importance of Hygiene ...... 43
Chapter Three | Grooming and Body Hair ...... 45
Body Hair Removal ...... 45
Chest & Torso Hair ...... 46
Methods of Chest Hair Removal ...... 49
Back Hair ...... 56
Armpit Hair ...... 57
Leg Hair ...... 57
Pubic Hair ...... 58
Nose and Ear Hair ...... 60
Eyebrows and Unibrows ...... 61
Shaving and Facial Hair ...... 69
Beards, Goatees, Chinstraps, Soul Patches… ...... 70
Beards & Stubble ...... 71
Goatees ...... 73
Moustaches ...... 75
Chinstraps ...... 76
- 6 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Soul Patches ...... 77
The Clean-Shaven Look ...... 78
The Perfect Shave ...... 79
Required Tools & Equipment ...... 80
The Shaving Process ...... 83
Chapter Four | Skin Care ...... 86
Facial Skin Care ...... 87
Other Skin Care ...... 95
Acne ...... 97
What Is Acne? ...... 97
What Causes Acne? ...... 98
Determining Severity ...... 100
Clinical Treatment Options ...... 105
Homeopathic & Natural Treatment Options ...... 122
Procedural Treatment Options ...... 124
Coping With Acne ...... 127
Are You Sure Its Acne? ...... 130
Dealing With Scarring & Discoloration ...... 133
Moles ...... 135
Fake Tanning ...... 138
- 7 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Final Thoughts on Skin Care ...... 139
Chapter Five | Oral Care & Orthodontics ...... 140
Orthodontics ...... 140
Other Cosmetic Dental Procedures ...... 144
Whitening Your Teeth ...... 146
Chapter Six | Weight Loss & Muscle Building ...... 150
10 Simple Steps to Losing Weight ...... 151
Nutrition Guidelines ...... 158
More Information ...... 161
10 Simple Steps to Building Muscle ...... 162
Sample Weightlifting Routines ...... 168
More Information ...... 170
Chapter Seven | Hairstyle ...... 172
Hairstyle Basics ...... 172
Face Shape & Style Choice ...... 178
Oval-Shaped Face ...... 179
Square-Shaped Face ...... 180
Oblong-Shaped Face ...... 181
Heart-Shaped Face ...... 182
Popular and Trendy Hairstyles ...... 183
- 8 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Long & Straight (Or Wavy) ...... 184
Longer & Shaggy ...... 186
Medium Tousled Hair ...... 188
The Faux Hawk ...... 190
Short & Clean ...... 192
Very Short & Buzz Cut ...... 194
Hairstyle Taboos ...... 196
Other Hair-Related Subjects ...... 197
Naturally Curly Hair ...... 197
Hairstyles for Balding Men ...... 198
Color and Highlights ...... 200
Shampoo and Conditioner ...... 201
Chapter Eight | Fashion ...... 202
General Fashion Guidelines ...... 202
Finding Your Style ...... 208
Elevated Casual ...... 209
Fashionable Casual ...... 211
Metrosexual ...... 214
Simple Yet Stylish ...... 216
American Casual ...... 218
- 9 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Skate/Surf ...... 220
Weighing the Options ...... 222
Bargain Hunting ...... 223
Dress To Your Body ...... 226
Hiding Extra Weight ...... 226
Adding Inches To Your Height ...... 229
Shoes ...... 231
Accessories ...... 234
Jewelry ...... 234
Piercings ...... 235
Watches ...... 236
Wallets and Bags ...... 237
Chapter Nine | Next Steps ...... 238
- 10 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Several years of hard work went into the creation of this book, so please don’t steal it.
Please be aware: We actively and aggressively pursue legal action against any and all persons who illegally possess or distribute this book.
By purchasing or possessing this book, you agree to the Terms and Conditions listed below.
Terms & Conditions By accepting this file, book, or ebook (the “Product”), which remains the property of The Handsome Factor (“THF”), viewing such Product, or otherwise using such Product, you (“Customer” or “you”) agree to be bound by these Terms and Conditions, any terms and conditions you otherwise have entered into due to your receipt or purchase of the Product, and the terms and conditions that THF places on purchasers or users of this Product as a condition of such purchase or use.
Copyrights & Trademarks Unless otherwise noted, you agree all content in this Product, such as text, graphics, logos, button icons, images, audio clips, digital downloads, data compilations, and software, is the property of THF or its content suppliers and protected by United States and international copyright laws. You further agree that the compilation of all content on this site is the exclusive property of THF and protected by U.S. and international copyright laws. All other trademarks not owned by THF or affiliates that appear in this Product are the property of their respective owners, who may or may not be affiliated with, connected to, or sponsored by THF or its affiliates.
Confidentiality & Limited Use Customer acknowledges that this Product is the confidential and proprietary information of THF and the property of THF. Customer hereby agrees to protect such as confidential. As a further condition to the purchase and/or receipt of this Product, Customer agrees it will not, nor allow others, to directly or indirectly copy, distribute, resell, lend, lease, display, teach to others or show this Product to others.
Customer agrees that no one may use this Product in any manner without the written approval of THF, except for the Customer who has agreed that his/her use is limited to his/her own personal viewing. In the
- 11 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
event Customer disagrees with these terms, Customer must immediately discontinue using this Product and destroy all copies of it that are in Customer’s possession. Anyone viewing or otherwise utilizing this Product, by such conduct, is agreeing to be bound by the terms of set forth herein, and as such must immediately comply with the terms of this agreement.
Limitation of Liability UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO NEGLIGENCE, WILL THF OR ANY OF ITS LICENSORS OR SUPPLIERS BE LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION ANY SPECIAL OR CONSEQUENTIAL DAMAGES, THAT RESULT FROM THE USE OF, OR THE INABILITY TO USE, THIS PRODUCT OR THE INFORMATION CONTAIN HEREIN, EVEN IF ADVISED OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH DAMAGES. APPLICABLE LAW MAY NOT ALLOW THE LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION OF LIABILITY FOR INCIDENTAL, CONSEQUENTIAL OR OTHER DAMAGES, SO THE ABOVE LIMITATION OR EXCLUSION MAY NOT APPLY TO YOU. NO EVENT SHALL THE TOTAL LIABILITY TO YOU THE CUSTOMER BY THF OR ANY OF OUR LICENSORS OR SUPPLIERS FOR ANY AND ALL DAMAGES, LOSSES, AND CAUSES OF ACTION (WHETHER IN CONTRACT, TORT, OR OTHERWISE) EXCEED THE AMOUNT PAID BY YOU TO THF, IF ANY, FOR THE PRODUCT.
No Personal Advice The information contained in or made available through this Product cannot replace or substitute for the services of trained professionals in any field, including, but not limited to, psychological, financial, medical, or legal matters. In particular, you should regularly consult a doctor in all matters relating to physical or mental health, particularly concerning any symptoms that may require diagnosis or medical attention. THF and our licensors or suppliers make no representations or warranties concerning any treatment, action, or application of medication or preparation by any person following the information offered or provided herein. Neither THF nor our associates, or any of their affiliates, will be liable for any direct, indirect, consequential, special, exemplary or other damages that may result, including but not limited to economic loss, injury, illness or death.
- 12 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Acknowledgements
This book represents several years of hard work. Along the way, a number of people were extremely helpful to my research and writing.
First off, I’d like to say thank you to all the wonderful ladies who helped me get the “woman’s perspective” on a number of topics. Special thanks to Shannon (thanks for all the late night chats...!), Micheila (thank you so much for the hours you spent reading my drafts), Lisa (couldn’t ask for a better advisor...), Sarah, and Keisha.
I’ve also had the privilege to work with some outstanding professionals who helped me with my research. I extend my thanks to Lisa Phillips and the amazing team at Luscious Locks Hair Design; Sandra McRae, an exceptional fashion consultant and a great friend; and Belinda Enstrom, an experienced esthetician and a wonderful person.
Special thank you to Shawn and Dirk. Without you guys, this project wouldn’t have been possible.
And perhaps most importantly, thanks to everyone who supported me and encouraged me from day one.
- 13 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Chapter One | Introduction
My Epiphany
I can distinctly remember the moment I decided to change my life for the better. It was January 19th, 2004. I was sitting in my parents’ basement, clad in dirty sweatpants and a stained t-shirt. A crumpled bag of day-old potato chips lay on my desk. I hadn’t shaved in at least a week. In retrospect, I probably smelled awful.
Up until then, I couldn’t figure out why my life wasn’t headed in the right direction. Why hadn’t I landed a good job? Why was I consistently shut down by women? Why was I always sitting at home on Saturday nights?
On that particular evening, I made it my mission to find out what was holding me back. Was I unintelligent? Did I lack a sense of humor? Maybe I just wasn’t a nice person.
I scoured the internet for hours. It wasn’t until sometime after 3:00 am that I came across a brief article in an obscure psychology journal. If I remember correctly, the article was entitled “Success Through Beauty,” and it summarized the findings of
- 14 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
four separate research studies. Little did I know that article would have a huge impact on the course of my life.
The basic premise of the article was that people who were judged by their peers to be physically attractive had more success in almost all areas of life. They tended to be wealthier, happier, have more friends, and enjoy a better sex life.
I knew immediately that this was my fundamental problem. I was unattractive, plain and simple. When was the last time I had paid attention to my haircut or my clothes? As I already mentioned, I hadn’t shaved in a week and I don’t think I even owned a stick of deodorant.
In fact, there were a variety of other factors contributing to my unappealing physical appearance: my teeth were crooked, I was sporting a pair of eyeglasses that belonged in the 1950’s, I had bad acne, and I simply had no idea how to shop for decent-looking clothes. It didn’t help that I was probably carrying a few extra pounds, either.
Some people might accept these as the luck of the draw. I couldn’t. I became totally and completely obsessed with resolving all of the issues that were negatively affecting my appearance. I spent months scouring magazine racks, the local library,
- 15 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
internet forums, and scholarly journals in an attempt to understand what makes people attractive and how one can improve their appearance.
This book represents three years of research on this topic. I’m not one to brag, but my hard work has paid off in spades. I successfully transformed myself from an “ugly duckling” hiding in my parents’ basement into a handsome, fashionable man beaming with confidence.
Not surprisingly, just as the research suggested, the changes I made to my physical appearance transcended into every aspect of my life. I got accepted into a prestigious graduate school. I met, courted, and married a gorgeous young woman. I have a great group of fun, intelligent friends. I’ve finally achieved some measure of financial success.
I directly correlate this drastic life turn-around to the night of January 19th, 2004. My journey into the world of fashion, hygiene, grooming, and style began that night, and changed my life forever.
I am convinced that if you read and apply the techniques and methods I describe in this book, your confidence level will skyrocket, and your life will dramatically and rapidly improve. So let’s get started.
- 16 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
The Science Behind Physical Appearance
“Relatively small differences in a person's looks – that determine higher and lower levels of physical attractiveness – translate regularly into big consequences in life.”
– Dr. Gordon L. Patzer, “Physical Attractiveness Phenomenon”
Relatively little is known about the nature of the relationship between physical appearance and success – we only know that this relationship does exist, and that there is a strong correlation between the two. Some parts of this concept are easy to understand: naturally, attractive people are more likely to find an equally beautiful partner and thus be happier. But why do good looks translate into a better career or more financial success? Why do physically attractive people have more friends and healthier relationships?
Dr. Gordon Patzer, who has spent the better part of thirty years exploring this subject, has summarized the impact: people use your physical appearance to infer information that results in a variety of assumptions, expectations, attitudes, and
- 17 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
behaviors. In other words, you might be a brilliant, friendly, witty, and compassionate person – but if you’re ugly, people will assume the worst before you even open your mouth. Dr. Patzer calls this “lookism,” or the tendency for people to judge others based on their physical appearance.
For those of us not blessed with great genetics, this form of prejudice may seem unfair. And it is unfair, but unfortunately this principle of lookism is ingrained in people’s subconscious, and there’s not much we can do to change it.
You can work to defeat your bad genes, however, by doing everything in your power to improve your own personal appearance. This book will show you a number of ways to overcome genetic pitfalls and ensure you’re looking your very best at all times.
I won’t bother going into any detail about the science behind exactly why or what makes a person attractive. There is a large body of research on the topic, but most of it is either extremely boring or not relevant to this book. As an example, there is a close relationship between symmetry and beauty: those who are beautiful generally have very symmetrical facial features. This is an interesting tidbit, but there’s little you can do to address the symmetry of your own facial features. Instead of feeding you this kind of information, I’ll spend time covering things you
- 18 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
can do, like how to improve your skin tone or style your hair. This kind of information is far more useful and applicable to those who want immediate, effective results.
In other words, I’m not going to waste your time with filler or extraneous information. I’ll stick to the basics and attempt to keep things straight-forward and easy to follow. All of the things I describe in this book are practical and can be applied to immediately improve your appearance, and you won’t have to read any boring scientific junk.
Are you ready to get started? Good, because in the next chapter, I’ll delve into one of the most important (and underrated) factors in determining your physical appearance: hygiene.
- 19 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Chapter Two | Hygiene
Personal hygiene is often an extremely neglected aspect of one’s physical appearance. Granted, tasks like regularly brushing your teeth may not win you any beauty contests, but they can make a huge difference in the way people perceive you. Perhaps you know someone who always has bad breath – would you want to hire them for a job knowing you’ll have to see and interact with them every day? Would you want to kiss someone who has food stuck in their teeth?
Hygiene also says a lot of subtle things about you. Lack of personal hygiene tells others that you’re either:
a) Lazy; b) Unwilling to pay attention to details; c) Unhealthy.
All three of these factors reflect poorly upon you, and can have a huge impact on whether or not people will want to interact with you on a regular basis. I certainly don’t have any friends with bad breath and dirty clothes – do you? Probably not.
- 20 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Performing acts of personal hygiene can be mundane, annoying, and time- consuming. Regardless, I strongly urge you to develop a routine of carefully applied hygiene habits. Doing so will ensure that people are not turned off or offended by your presence. In fact, you’ll notice that all successful and beautiful people pay close attention to their own cleanliness.
Oral Hygiene
Addressing oral health and cleanliness is an excellent place to begin your journey towards flawless hygiene. Keep in mind this section is dedicated only to oral hygiene – in a later chapter, I will discuss cosmetic factors like straightening and whitening teeth. For now, I will focus on maintaining cleanliness and eliminating ‘halitosis’ (bad breath).
- 21 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Tooth Brushing
Everyone knows that regularly brushing your teeth is important. But how often should you do it? For how long? At what points during the day? Here are some basic guidelines to follow:
1) Brush your teeth at least twice a day, or more often if you’ll be interacting with people for long periods of time. If you work at an office, there’s no shame in keeping a toothbrush and toothpaste in your desk drawer and slipping into the men’s room for a quick brush after lunch.
2) Never, ever leave the house in the morning without brushing your teeth. Ever. If you eat breakfast at home soon after waking up, then save brushing your teeth until after breakfast. If you usually skip breakfast or eat out, then brush your teeth after you wake up or at some point before
- 22 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
leaving the house.
3) Brush for at least 90 seconds Helpful Hint (preferably two minutes), and use a If you tend to “cheat” and not decent amount of toothpaste. Move brush your teeth for long enough, try setting a timer in the brush in small circles and cover your bathroom. Don’t stop both the front and back surfaces of brushing until the two minutes your teeth. are up.
4) After brushing, rinse your mouth thoroughly and wipe the toothpaste from your lips (dried toothpaste on your lips is not a particularly attractive look…!).
5) Always brush your teeth before bed at night (duh!). Even if you’re stumbling home from the bar or crashing at a friend’s house, be sure to set aside a couple of minutes for that pre-bed brush.
6) Use only soft-bristled toothbrushes, and for maximum longevity of the brush, don’t chew on the bristles. An expensive or fancy-looking
- 23 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
toothbrush is not required, but make sure you replace your toothbrush regularly (at least monthly, preferably more often).
7) If you can afford it, electric toothbrushes are great. Overall, they do a better job of cleaning your teeth. But don’t be fooled into thinking an electric brush will let you get away with a 30-second brush. You’ll still need to brush for 2 minutes even if you’ve got the fanciest electric or sonic toothbrush.
8) Your toothbrush can be a bacterial breeding ground, so rinse it with hot water before and after each use. I like to give the bristles a quick run-over with a clean finger before brushing as well.
Flossing
There are a number of reasons why flossing is important, not the least of which is that it keeps your teeth and gums healthy for years to come. But it can also prevent bad breath and even (believe it or not) help keep your arteries healthy. Yes, that’s
- 24 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
right – flossing the plaque from your teeth can help keep it from getting embedded in your arteries. Some key things to remember when flossing:
1) Floss at least once a day. Your dentist may encourage twice a day, but my research indicates that once a day is sufficient to remove any plaque buildup. It can also take a few minutes, and I usually never have time to spare in the morning, so I floss nightly.
2) When flossing, take a moment to clean the sides of each tooth, don’t just poke the floss between each tooth and move on quickly to the next. Remember, the goal is to remove that nasty white plaque from between the teeth.
3) Use a new section of dental floss for each tooth. Using the same inch of floss will just transfer the plaque from tooth to tooth, and that’s not helping anything.
- 25 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
4) I prefer waxed dental floss because some of my teeth are quite close together. Try both waxed and unwaxed to see which you prefer.
5) If your gums bleed, floss more gently and remember that regular flossing will make your gums more resilient and less likely to bleed.
6) After flossing, thoroughly rinse your mouth.
7) Whether or not you floss before or after brushing your teeth is a matter of personal preference, but I feel flossing first makes more sense. To me, it seems logical to loosen all plaque and then brush the remainder away, so I floss first and brush second.
Rubber “Gum Stimulator”
I’m not entirely sure why this device is called a “gum stimulator.” It could probably be more aptly named a “rubber toothpick.” Regardless of the name, using a gum stimulator (my personal favorite is Butler GUM brand, pictured on the right)
- 26 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
helps remove any leftover plaque from between your teeth. As I mentioned before, plaque contributes to bad breath and general poor oral health, so removing as much as possible is always a good idea. Most drug stores carry at least one brand of gum stimulator in the dental health section. Some things to remember:
1) Use the rubber tip of the stimulator to gently pry away any white plaque from between your teeth. Rinse off the rubber tip after each tooth.
2) Use the gum stimulator once a day. Like flossing, you could do so more often, but plaque buildup takes time and most of my reading suggests that once a day is sufficient.
- 27 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Waterpik
Many people consider the “Waterpik” to be the next generation of oral health. The Waterpik is a device which uses a jet stream of water pressure to clean your teeth and gums. It is intended to be a replacement for both flossing and the use of a gum stimulator. Some studies have shown a Waterpik can be up to 90% more effective at cleaning your gums than traditional flossing.
Sounds pretty ideal, doesn’t it? It is an excellent device, with easy and painless operation and great results. If you’re willing to fork out the money for a Waterpik device and use it regularly, then you may be able to forgo flossing altogether. I hesitate to recommend the Waterpik in this book simply because for most men it’s too expensive (a basic model starts at about $40) and too time consuming to use. Nonetheless, if you hate flossing or are willing to spend the money, this is an excellent product. The Waterpik also works wonders for those with braces or any kind of orthodontic appliance that prevents proper flossing. Many orthodontists
- 28 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
strongly suggest the use of a Waterpik to new clients.
Tongue Cleaning
The single most effective treatment for bad breath is regular tongue cleaning. A quick look at the back of your tongue in the mirror will probably reveal some nasty- looking white scum. The goal of tongue cleaning is to significantly reduce (but not completely remove) this residue. The front of your tongue is usually fairly clean, because it has a ‘self-cleaning’ mechanism that prevents the growth of bacteria. At the back of the tongue, where there’s less contact with your palate, odor-causing bacteria tends to thrive.
To effectively clean your tongue, you can use either a store-bought tongue cleaner (seen here on the left) or a spoon. The tongue cleaners that can be purchased at a drug store are plastic and designed to reduce the gag reflex (generally speaking, the wider the better). You can even use a toothbrush and brush the back of your tongue, but this is very likely to activate your gag reflex, especially when you first try it.
- 29 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
1) Clean your tongue after brushing your teeth but before using mouthwash. The theory with this is that the toothpaste will loosen the bacteria on your tongue, and then using mouthwash will rinse away any remaining bacteria.
2) Scrape the white residue on your tongue towards the front of your mouth and then rinse the tongue cleaner after each scrape. Two or three scrapes should be plenty.
3) Do not use too much pressure. You don’t want to irritate your tongue. If it won’t come off with a couple of gentle scrapes, it’s not going to come off at all.
4) Always rinse the tongue cleaner (or spoon, or whatever) with hot water before and after use.
- 30 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Mouthwash
Generally speaking, reviews and research on mouthwash are mixed. On one hand, mouthwash is an effective short-term agent to improve bad breath and kill bacteria. On the other, some research has shown that mouthwash may be ineffective in the long run (or perhaps even counterproductive). I’ll spare you the science, but generally speaking mouthwashes are only effective for a short period of time after use. If you rinse with mouthwash after lunch, for example, don’t expect that garlic scent to be masked until dinner time. At best, you might get an hour of odor relief from your mouthwash.
As a positive aspect, mouthwashes that contain fluoride can help fight tartar and gingivitis and potentially even prevent cavities (maybe). My recommendation is to use fluoride-containing mouthwash only at two times:
1) When you need immediate relief of bad breath (for an important after- lunch interview or a special good night kiss);
- 31 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
2) As the last step in your morning or bed time routine to rinse out any leftover plaque or food particles.
In other words, use mouthwash sparingly. It’s not necessary (you could rinse with water, instead, and have nearly the same results), but it may add an extra boost when needed.
Bedtime Routine
In covering all of the various oral health habits that I recommended, you’ll notice that I suggested flossing, tongue cleaning, and using a gum stimulator once per day. Although you could do these once-a-day tasks in the morning, most people are pressed for time as they get ready for work or school. Instead, I suggest you go through a complete oral hygiene routine before bed every night. As a result, you can limit your morning routine to one thorough tooth brushing. If you follow this advice (and I strongly suggest you do), here’s what your evening routine would look like:
- 32 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
1) Floss (2 minutes).
2) Use gum stimulator (60 seconds). Helpful Hint You could replace flossing 3) Brush teeth (90 seconds). and the use of a gum stimulator in your bedtime
routine by using a “Waterpik” 4) Clean tongue (30 seconds). for a couple of minutes.
5) Rinse with mouthwash (30 seconds).
The total time is six minutes – and six minutes well spent. Even if your only other oral hygiene consists of a tooth brushing in the morning, you’ll have all but eliminated bad breath for good. Furthermore, your mouth will look and feel better. In a later chapter, I’ll discuss how to whiten and straighten teeth.
- 33 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Chewing Gum
If you suffer from bad breath, chewing gum is your new best friend. In addition to temporarily masking odors, chewing gum promotes the production of saliva. More saliva is critical to reducing bacteria. Scientific research has also indicated that gum can actually reduce halitosis bacteria by itself.
Try chewing a piece of gum after meals when it’s appropriate. I stress “when appropriate” because there are times when noisily smacking gum can be completely out of line. You wouldn’t dare chew gum in an important job interview or while on a first date with a gorgeous woman – it simply isn’t appropriate. So while I urge you to chew gum when you need temporarily halitosis relief and don’t have access to a toothbrush, be sure that the situation calls for it.
There is also a certain etiquette to chewing gum. Keep your mouth closed at all times (no smacking!) and be aware that others don’t want to hear you chewing your gum nor do they want to see that piece of gum floating around in your mouth. Be very subtle whenever you’re chewing gum around other people.
- 34 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
General Hygiene
From oral hygiene we move to another area of critical importance – general hygiene and bathing. It may seem obvious, but regular bathing is crucial to reduce body odor. Being dirty or foul-smelling is a sure-fire way to fail in almost all aspects of life. If you have to interact with people face-to-face in any situation, then being clean should be a top priority.
Showering & Bathing
I cannot over-stress the importance of showering every single day. Unless you don’t have to interact with anyone whatsoever, you should set aside at least a few minutes each day to shower or bathe. The only other reason to avoid showering is if you have
- 35 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
extremely dry or sensitive skin, and even then I strongly encourage you to bathe with regularity.
For a number of reasons, I suggest that your shower take place before leaving the house in the morning. To begin, many people sweat (often profusely, if you live in a warm climate) during their sleep. If you’ve been lying in a pool of sweat all night, you’re almost guaranteed to smell and feel unclean until you shower. Secondly, a shower removes any grease from your hair and allows for the fresh application of hair products. Perhaps most importantly, a shower in the morning can leave you feeling refreshed and ready for the day ahead.
Some people prefer to shower or bathe in the evening, which is certainly acceptable, but less ideal from a hygiene standpoint for the reasons outlined above. If you’re the type of person who bathes in the evening, then your morning routine should include a few measures to make sure you’re clean enough to leave the house in the morning.
If you like to exercise in the afternoon or evening, a second shower may be required. You can use common sense as to where you want to fit this shower into your day.
- 36 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
A good shower should include at least three elements: body soap (liquid or bar, both are acceptable), shampoo, and conditioner. Liberally apply the body soap to your entire body (a scrub brush with an extended handle may be useful for washing your back). Follow this with a 30-second application of shampoo, and rinse thoroughly. Lastly, apply a small amount of conditioner and massage it evenly throughout your hair.
Men who are balding or who have a very short crew cut may not need to apply conditioner – all others will want to do so every shower. Those with very long or very dry hair may find that shampooing every day can further dry out their hair and cause split ends. In this case, shampooing every second or third day is a suitable alternative, but a daily shower is still necessary.
After showering, dry yourself thoroughly with a clean towel. Now is the time to shave and apply post-shower products such as moisturizer. Techniques for proper shaving will be covered in the next chapter.
- 37 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Deodorant
The use of deodorant is fundamental to good personal hygiene. Apply deodorant after every shower (or before leaving the house every morning, if you bathe in the evening). Additionally, it is best to use not only a deodorant product but a combination deodorant/antiperspirant. The antiperspirant prevents armpit sweating (and thus reduces odor) and can reduce unsightly “’pit spots”. The deodorant portion of the product further fights unpleasant odors. Helpful Hint Next time you’re shopping for deodorant, Choose a deodorant that’s stop and take a look at the product you’re “unscented.” Odors from scented products smell buying. The active ingredient that prevents cheap and may clash with sweating and odor will be listed on the front or your cologne or aftershave. back (sometimes in very small font). The most common active ingredient is “aluminum zirconium tricholorohydrex glycine.” Other deodorants may contain aluminum chloride, or some similar-looking long name. After the active ingredient there will be a percentage – this indicates how much of the ingredient is present in the product.
- 38 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
For example, I use unscented Speed Stick Sport for Men. At the bottom of the package it lists “Aluminum Zirconium Tricholorohydrex Glycine 20%.” As a general rule, the higher this percentage value, the more effective the antiperspirant. Legally manufacturers are allowed to use between 10 and 25%, although I’ve never seen one higher than 22% on the shelf. For people who sweat excessively or have serious odor problems, more powerful strengths are available via prescription. If you think you might have a problem, especially if you don’t live in a warm climate, speak to your doctor. Armpit stains are seriously unattractive!
Hygiene For Smokers
If you’re a smoker, you should quit. Smoking is increasingly becoming considered an unattractive habit. Furthermore, many women won’t even consider dating a man who smokes, and it can negatively impact your overall image. Unfortunately, that’s much easier said than done. So while you’re working on quitting or cutting down, here are a few quick tips to mask your smoking habit:
- 39 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Don’t smoke in closed spaces. Smoke only outside or in very well ventilated areas, as this will help prevent your clothes from carrying the smell of smoke.
Wash your clothes regularly. Even if you only smoke outside, the scent can stay in your clothes. Only very regular washing can eliminate the odor.
Wash your hands after every cigarette. Because you have to hold the cigarette in your hand, much of the smoke scent stays on your fingers. If you don’t have access to a sink, carry a travel-sized bottle of hand sanitizer.
Carry around a small container of cologne. Be careful with this – sometimes cologne mixed with cigarette smoke can be a disgusting odor. But if you spray very occasionally, and make sure to follow all of the above steps to minimize the smell of smoke, a small spray of cologne (be frugal!) can help.
- 40 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Other Hygiene Tips
I’ve covered all of the most basic areas above, but there are a few other areas to pay attention to regularly:
1) Clean your ears regularly. There’s no better way to disgust someone than with a bundle of ear wax. Gently and carefully use a Q-tip every day to clean your ears. I recommend doing this every morning before leaving the house. If you do it regularly enough, one double- ended Q-tip should be enough for both ears. Do not insert the Q-tip deep into your ear canal! This can be very dangerous.
2) Wash your hands regularly throughout the day. If you’re like me, then you’re interacting with people on a regular basis. You don’t want to shake someone’s hand if you’ve got a greasy stain or a bit of leftover lunch on your palm. This is also a great idea for other reasons, too – regular hand washing is one of the single most
- 41 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
effective means of preventing colds and influenza.
3) Continuing with the hand-washing topic, clean under your fingernails periodically. There are special brushes you can buy that are effective for removing dirt from under your nails, or you can just use any flat object to pry out dirt. Do this at least once a week or whenever you spot grime under your nails.
4) And while you’re at it, clip your fingernails at least once a week. Long fingernails – perhaps unless you’re a professional guitarist – are not attractive. You don’t need to clip them extremely short, just make sure they’re always at a reasonable length and smoothly filed.
5) Before leaving the house in the morning, check your nose. There is nothing – and I mean nothing – less attractive than a big booger hanging out of your nose. Get close to the mirror and make sure your nose is free of any alien substances.
- 42 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
The Importance of Hygiene
The mere fact that I devoted a number of pages to the topic of hygiene should give you a good indication as to how important a role it can play in determining your overall physical appearance. By adopting a solid routine of good hygiene habits, you can make yourself more attractive and more likeable immediately. If you need proof, there are plenty of studies available. They show that people who are dirty, smell bad, or have generally poor hygiene are already at a huge disadvantage in terms of interpersonal relationships. How successful do you think you’re going to be on that first date if she notices your armpit stains and bad breath?
I began this chapter by asserting that poor hygiene can leave others with the impression that you are either lazy, unhealthy, or that you don’t care about your physical wellbeing. All three are negative, but I would like to focus on the “unhealthy” element for a moment.
Thousands of years ago, our ancestors (ie. cavemen) were genetically programmed to seek out the company of other people who were most healthy. Human beings still have a genetic predisposition to choose a mate based on how healthy they appear. This explains we find people who are tanned, have toned and
- 43 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
athletic bodies, and have no physical abnormalities attractive. It’s all about natural selection: women are subconsciously programmed to prefer men who appear healthy.
Hygiene is one way to say to people around us that we’re “healthy”. An unhealthy person may give off an undesirable odor or have open sores (and other nasty things like that). By eliminating any hygiene problems, you give yourself an advantage over many other people who may not be so careful with their own personal hygiene. For this reason, I strongly urge you to put all of the above tactics I have outlined into practice. If you do so regularly, you’ve taken the first major step towards permanently improving your physical appearance and desirability.
- 44 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Chapter Three | Grooming and Body Hair
Although hygiene is extremely important and should not be overlooked, I would like to now focus on something a bit more interesting to most men. The subject of grooming and body hair is one that I researched and experimented with thoroughly before writing this book. The taming and proper care of body hair is an extremely important factor in improving your appearance.
Body Hair Removal
The most difficult aspect of body hair removal is deciding what to remove and how to go about removing it. In a lot of ways, it’s a very personal decision: some men like the body hair look, others find it revolting. The same applies for women, with some women finding hairy men quite attractive while others would never consider dating a man with a lot of body hair.
- 45 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Whether or not you choose to tame, trim or remove your body hair will depend on your age, body type, and what kind of body hair you have. As you age, you will have increasing amounts of body hair to deal with. Thankfully, middle aged and older men usually look much more natural with chest and body hair intact, and it is generally accepted in the “Baby Boomer” generation. Younger men (under 35, perhaps) usually prefer to remove or tame their body hair. Shaved chests and trimmed hair are much more fashionable and desirable nowadays than they were even ten years ago.
Chest & Torso Hair
There are some men – even those quite young – who have a large amount of body hair naturally. For this type of body, I strongly recommend using a hair trimmer (also known as “clippers” or a “beard trimmer”) to tame your chest hair. The images displayed in this section are examples of men who have successfully tamed their chest and torso hair to make it look much more attractive. The first man, seen on the left, is obviously very naturally hairy, but you can see by how short and well
- 46 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
manicured his chest hair is. Women typically much prefer this “tamed” chest hair look over a forest of hair growing on your torso.
Although completely removing chest, stomach and back hair is possible for men who are extremely hairy naturally, it’s a much more cumbersome task. It usually ends up working out poorly and results in “missed patches” or areas where small hairs can be seen sprouting up all over the place.
The man seen here on the right has less natural body hair than the first, but he too has used a hair trimmer to tame his chest patch. He has also probably shaved or waxed his arms, but using a hair trimmer on these areas can be equally effective. The result of conscientious use of a
- 47 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
hair trimmer is a well-cared for look that would certainly be acceptable to most women. If you have a fair amount of chest and stomach hair, or want to go with a low-maintenance method of body hair control, using a trimmer is the recommended method. I will further discuss trimmers later in this chapter.
Men with less chest hair, or just generally less thick and dense hair on their torso, should consider removing their chest hair completely. In contrast to the 1970’s and 80’s, where thick mats of chest hair were considered sexy, less hair is now desirable. A quick glance at the latest edition of “Men’s Health” or “GQ” reveals that all of the models have completely shaved torsos. This is particularly important for younger men and those without much hair. Some may argue it makes you less “manly,” but many women – especially the younger generation – prefer a completely shaven look. Again, I have to stress that this is far more effective for guys who have only a small amount of chest hair to begin with. As I explained earlier, completely
- 48 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
removing large amounts of chest hair is very rarely successful.
Methods of Chest Hair Removal
I hope the above section has convinced you to at least consider taming your chest hair. If so, I suggest you begin by trying one of the methods described below.
1) Hair Trimmer (aka “Clippers”): The hair trimmer is a fantastic little device that every man should own. You’ve probably seen one before – it’s what hairstylists use to trim sideburns or give a buzz cut. A good trimmer will come with several “guards” or covers with varying lengths of teeth to allow you to adjust how short you want your hair. Simply run the razor along your skin against the grain of your hair’s growth and watch the excess hair fall into the
- 49 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
sink (or bathtub, or wherever).
a. Pros: Using a trimmer is quick, pain-free and incredibly easy to do. It does an excellent job of cleaning up overgrown hair. You’ll never have to worry about ingrown hairs, razor burn, red rashes, or any of the other unpleasant side-effects of complete hair removal.
b. Cons: Trimmers are only useful for men who don’t want a completely clean-shaven look. Even the shortest blade guard will leave a layer of stubble. Of course, the hair cut by a trimmer will grow back so you’ll have to periodically re-use it.
c. Tips: Start with a long blade guard and work your way down to a shorter one. This ensures that you never cut the hair too short for your liking. Also, make sure you buy a decent quality hair trimmer. “The Peanut” by Wahl is the model I use, but there are many excellent ones in the $40-50 price range. This is something you’ll probably use with regularity for many years to come, so there’s no sense cheaping out on a low-quality model that’s going to break a few months down the road.
- 50 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
2) Shaving: Fairly self-explanatory, shaving involves the use of a regular razor to remove hair right down to the root.
a. Pros: Easy to do, painless, virtually cost-free, and less likely to cause irritation than some other methods of hair removal.
b. Cons: Shaving must be repeated with regularity. To keep your chest always looking hair-free, you’ll probably need to shave every second day. This can be time-consuming and frustrating. If you’re not careful, the contours of your chest can cause you to cut yourself. Some people are also susceptible to razor burn or irritation.
c. Tips: If your entire torso is covered in hair, shaving is not a good method for you to choose. Because the hair grows back so fast, shaving it all off regularly will be nearly impossible. To avoid irritating your skin and causing bumps, cuts, or razor burn, use a glycerin-based shaving cream and a very sharp razor (preferably not a cheap disposable one). Always attempt shaving in the shower or bath, as the hot water helps to lift up your hairs and gives you a closer shave. Shave with the grain of hair, and be very gentle. Shaving your chest is similar to shaving your face (but a little bit less finicky, thankfully) – so the same principles apply. I will discuss facial
- 51 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
hair removal in the next section.
3) Waxing: Waxing is a painful process that involves spreading hot wax onto your chest and then removing both the wax and your hair with a cloth. At- home kits can be purchased, but most people wanting to wax will go to a salon for professional assistance. If you’re going to go the at-home route, you’ll need a friend or spouse to assist.
a. Pros: Waxing is at least semi-permanent. After several treatments, your hair may grow back thinner and more slowly. Over time, you’ll be able to wax less frequently. If you go to a salon, you can have many areas waxed – your chest, stomach, back, neck, legs, eyebrows… even your pubic area if you so desire.
b. Cons: It hurts a lot. If you’re going to a salon, it’ll cost you a few bucks. You’ll have to go back regularly for touch-up waxes, and it can leave red bumps and irritate the skin. Unfortunately your hair must be long-ish for the wax to grab the hairs, so you’ll probably need a week’s worth of growth before getting it waxed.
c. Tips: Waxing is not for the faint of heart. It’s a traditional method of hair removal that works well, but hurts like hell. I do not recommend
- 52 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
waxing at home unless you have an experienced friend to help you out. Don’t try to wax hair unless it’s reasonably long. A centimeter is probably the minimum acceptable length, so if you just shaved your chest three days ago, chances are it’s not ready to be waxed yet.
4) Electrolysis: Electrolysis is, at least Helpful Hint theoretically, a method of permanent Before you employ a hair removal. A professional method of hair removal that’s permanent, be electrologist will insert a small needle absolutely certain that you’ll into individual hair follicles and zap never want hair in that area them with a small current of electricity. again. I’ve encountered a The effectiveness varies from man to few men who spent thousands of dollars zapping man, and a number of repeat visits away all their chest hair only over a series of months are required. to later realize they prefer the hairy-chested look. a. Pros: If you find a good practitioner and stick with the removal schedule, electrolysis is permanent. It’s less painful than waxing, and many shops are experienced in working with men (unlike
- 53 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
some beauty salons and estheticians who deal almost exclusively with women).
b. Cons: Even though it hurts less than waxing, it’s not pain-free. Multiple treatments (and thus much dedication) are required and it’s a time-consuming process. It can take up to a year to completely remove all the hair from a particular area. It can be quite costly, too.
c. Tips: I do not recommend using electrolysis for hair removal on your chest. The only torso application I do recommend electrolysis for is if you have very sporadic back hair (ie. if you only have 30 or 40 hairs sprouting around your back).
5) Laser Hair Removal: Laser treatment is a relatively new development in the world of hair removal. Highly controlled lasers are used to damage the hair follicles, thus preventing the hair from re-growing. It is considered completely permanent.
a. Pros: Completely permanent if you go through with the required sessions.
b. Cons: Like electrolysis, it’s definitely not pain-free. It is probably still less painful than waxing, but can definitely hurt. Your skin tone and
- 54 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
pigment can have a big effect on whether or not the procedure works. Dark-skinned men may not be able to use this method at all. It’s the most expensive method of hair removal and it does require several treatments.
c. Tips: Again, the concept of laser hair removal is probably best reserved for small jobs like eyebrows or sporadic back hairs. When you consider the cost and the pain, it’s not a great option for removing a big mat of chest hair…
With all five of these methods in mind, trimming and shaving are the two you’ll probably want to experiment with first. As I mentioned previously, trimming is the best option for men with a decent amount of chest and stomach hair. If you’re very hairy, shaving isn’t really an option because it will be virtually impossible to remove all of your hair all the time. Those with a lot of body hair should try trimming and then move on to waxing as a second step.
For those with less hair on their chest and stomach, shaving is probably the second most desirable method after using a trimmer. The one major problem with shaving is that it must be done with regularity – if you’re not willing to take five or
- 55 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
ten minutes to carefully shave your chest in the shower every second day or so, then don’t bother. If you are willing to make this commitment, then shaving is a cheap, pain-free option with very few drawbacks. Be sure to read the section below on facial shaving for tips on how to reduce irritation and razor burn.
Back Hair
The issue of back hair is, in my mind, not at all controversial. With the number of body hair removal methods readily available today, there’s not really any reason why a man should have to deal with back hair. Back hair is pretty much universally accepted as unattractive, and to remove it I recommend visiting a professional esthetician at a reputable salon.
Now that you have an idea of the various methods of hair removal available, you can make an educated decision on which route to take. Waxing, while not permanent, is best for men with a lot of back hair. If you can afford it and have less back hair, perhaps look into electrolysis or laser hair removal.
- 56 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Armpit Hair
Most guys would never consider shaving their armpits. I certainly don’t shave my pits, and I really don’t see a need, either. If the amount of armpit hair you have bothers you, or looks rather unsightly, I suggest you trim or shorten it with a pair of scissors. If you use a hair trimmer with a short razor guard, the results may look a bit strange. Stick with scissors or leave it alone altogether. Armpit hair reduction is one area that remains the domain of women (and possibly professional swimmers…).
Leg Hair
For the most part, leg hair removal is generally not necessary. Having hairy legs still falls within the domain of being “manly” and seems to be generally acceptable among women. If your legs resemble a primeval forest rather than a manicured orchard, you could again resort to using a hair trimmer. Given the surface area of your legs and the difficulty of seeing all angles, this may prove to be a fairly significant task that you’ll be undertaking each week. For the most part, unless your
- 57 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
leg hair really bothers you, leave it be. Even in this era of shaved chests and meticulous grooming, legs with a bit of fur on them are still in style.
Pubic Hair
The issue of pubic hair removal is much less clear-cut (pardon the pun). Because you and your sexual partner are the only ones who ever see this region, you will probably want to make a decision based on what you both prefer. Traditionally, pubic hair removal has been reserved for women. Over the last 20 years, however, it has also become increasingly common for men.
As a general rule of thumb, I would suggest you avoid shaving, waxing, or otherwise completely removing hair from your pubic region. Hair in this area has a tendency to result in “razor burn” (red, itchy bumps) and ingrown hairs. Because of the contours of the area, shaving and waving are also extremely difficult and the skin can be very sensitive.
On the other side of the coin, however, a jungle of untamed pubic hair can be rather unattractive. It gives the (sometimes misleading) impression that the area
- 58 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
isn’t clean or is not well groomed and cared-for. The best possible compromise is generally to use a hair trimmer and carefully trim the hair above and around the base of your penis. Be careful to not get any skin caught in your hair trimmer (ouch!), and don’t set the blade guard too close to the skin.
As a second step in addition to trimming the pubic area above and around the base of your penis, you can shave your scrotum and the shaft of your penis. However, I strongly recommend if you’re going to try this that you are very careful and use a lot of shaving cream. The skin in this area can cut easily. Only do this in the shower when the hot water has opened your pores.
The result of pubic hair trimming (but not full-blown Brazilian waxing or shaving) is a nicely manicured – but still masculine-looking – genital region. This will typically satisfy most ladies (some are fussy about too much pubic hair; others think the complete removal of pubic hair is downright weird). As I mentioned before, if you’re in a relationship and have a regular sexual partner, there’s no shame in asking their opinion on the matter.
- 59 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Nose and Ear Hair
Contrary to popular belief, the annoying problem of nose and ear hair affects more than just old men. Remember that when you interact with people, they can often see angles of your face that even the best mirrors don’t reveal. This is especially true during intimate encounters. Nose and ear hair is unsightly, but thankfully it is also easily removed.
The simplest way to deal with nose and ear hair is to fork out a few dollars for an electric nose hair trimmer. These little devices have a built in safety device to ensure that you don’t cut yourself, but they do an excellent job cutting nose and ear hair down to an unnoticeable length. Unlike with using tweezers to pull out hairs (which is extremely uncomfortable for nose hairs), trimmed hair will grow back quickly. Thoroughly taming both nose and ears with an electric trimmer should only take a minute or two to complete, so it’s a manageable task every few days. Best of
- 60 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
all, these electric trimmers are dirt cheap – I picked mine up on EBay for less than $5 and it’s still going strong after several years of use.
Eyebrows and Unibrows
Way too many men pay very little attention to their eyebrows, and it’s always painfully obvious. A “unibrow,” or the continuation of hair between both eyebrows, is universally accepted as unattractive. Similarly, extremely bushy eyebrows are generally viewed as unappealing. There are a variety of ways to deal with unibrows or overly-large eyebrows, none of which is without some sort of drawback.
- 61 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
1) Plucking: Fairly self-explanatory, plucking involves using a pair of tweezers to pull out any stray hairs. You can tweeze just a few stray ones or go on a mission to remove your unibrow, but that may take time.
a. Pros: Easy to do and is difficult to screw up. Since you’re only plucking one or maybe two hairs at a time, you won’t be left with big bald spots on your forehead. The hairs will grow back eventually, but less quickly than with shaving or trimming.
b. Cons: Can be slightly painful, and can also be an extremely long process. Because of this tweezing is generally much more suited to light “cleanup” than to full-blown eyebrow shaping.
c. Tips: Before tweezing, wash your eyebrows or soak them with a warm, damp cloth. This will help open up the hair follicles and make the process slightly less painful. You may also want to invest in a decent pair of tweezers – the sharper the better. “Tweezerman” brand tend to be fairly good and can be purchased at your local drug store.
- 62 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
2) Shaving: Again, self-explanatory. Shaving involves using a standard razor and a bit of shaving cream or moisturizer to shave off any unwanted eyebrow hairs.
a. Pros: Shaving is quick, painless, and easy to do. b. Cons: It’s very easy to be left with a big bald spot where you didn’t intend. Razors are large and imprecise, so you may very well be left with only half an eyebrow if you’re not careful. Also, the hairs will grow back quickly, and you’ll have to repeat the process regularly.
c. Tips: Try using Vitamin E lotion on your skin after shaving to help prevent ingrown hairs and razor burn. Aloe Vera may work as an alternative.
3) Waxing: As I explained in the previous section, the process of waxing requires you to apply a hot, sticky substance to the area where you want to remove stray hairs. You then apply a special piece of cloth or muslin which peels off your hair.
a. Pros: Its semi-permanent, and waxing kits are readily available at your local drug store.
- 63 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
b. Cons: Ideally, waxing should be done by a professional esthetician at a salon. Doing it on your own is very rarely effective and is a pain in the ass. The wax is also sticky and messy.
c. Tips: I advise against using wax at home. If you’re willing to go into a salon, it can be an excellent way of controlling excess eyebrow hair and it’s slightly more permanent.
4) Trimming: This is a common method used to tame brow hair. It involves using either a sharp, precise pair of scissors (such as those used by a barber) or an electric razor. You lift the hair with a comb and then trim off the portion that pokes through the comb. This is not a solution to a unibrow, but it’s a good option for those with thick, overgrown eyebrows.
a. Pros: Excellent for taming long or thick eyebrows. Painless and can be done at home with relative ease.
b. Cons: Similar to shaving, trimming your eyebrows can be easy to screw up if you’re not careful. Trimming is also useless when it comes to dealing with a unibrow. It will have to be re-done every now and then.
- 64 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
c. Tips: An esthetician at a salon is best at performing this. If you’re doing it on your own, be careful not to over-trim. If the hairs are too short, they’ll stand up straight and look very unnatural.
5) Threading: Threading is an ancient Indian method of hair removal. It’s only become popular in the Western world in the past decade or so. Threading consists of a long cotton thread that is wrapped around a number of hairs. The thread is then twisted and the hairs are quickly removed without considerable pain.
a. Pros: Threading is much more efficient than plucking and typically results in the hair being removed in naturally straight lines. Like waxing or plucking, threading is at least a semi-permanent solution. It’s fast, cheap, and precise.
b. Cons: Threading must be done by a professional at a salon. It can be difficult to find a esthetician who is capable of properly threading, although as mentioned it is greatly increasing in popularity. The process must be repeated every now and then to keep new brow hairs under control.
- 65 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
c. Tips: If you’re willing to visit a salon (many men find this a challenge to their masculine pride), this is a superb way to have the hairs removed.
6) Electrolysis: As detailed in the section on body hair removal, electrolysis requires a professional practitioner to apply a small electrical current to your hair follicles.
a. Pros: Permanent and precise. b. Cons: Costly and requires many return visits. You must stick to a treatment schedule. It’s not pain-free, either.
c. Tips: The major factors preventing me from recommending electrolysis over other methods of brow hair removal are cost and required dedication. It’s permanent if you’re willing to pay the money and go through with multiple treatments, so it’s not a bad option if you have the money and the time.
7) Laser Hair Removal: This procedure requires several sessions of treatment with a special laser. It’s a permanent but costly way to remove unwanted brow hairs.
- 66 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
a. Pros: Permanent, precise, less time consuming than electrolysis. b. Cons: Semi-painful and very expensive compared to almost all other methods of hair removal. You must return for several visits for complete effectiveness. Also, the color and pigment of your skin may hamper the effectiveness of treatment.
c. Tips: Laser treatment is very similar to electrolysis, although less return visits are required for permanent hair removal. It costs a lot – up to several hundred dollars per session.
I know from personal experience that dealing with unwanted eyebrow hair can be a very frustrating task. In conclusion, I recommend taking one of the following two routes:
a) If your eyebrows are quite overgrown and/or you have a unibrow… Suck it up and look for an esthetician in the Yellow Pages or on the internet. Find a salon that does work with men, bite the bullet, and pay the money to have your eyebrows professionally cared for. If your eyebrows are bad enough to bother you or if you think they’re degrading your overall physical
- 67 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
appearance, then it’s worth it to pay the money and have them dealt with professionally. The route you take will depend on how much money you want to spend and how permanent you want the hair removal to be. Taking into account all of the benefits and drawbacks to the various methods of brow hair removal, threading is the probably the best temporary option for most men while electrolysis and laser removal are both good permanent solutions.
b) If your eyebrows look acceptable as-is or just need a bit of a touch-up… Use a pair of tweezers and pluck away. It may hurt a bit and take some time, but you’re unlikely to make a major mistake and end up with a big bald spot.
- 68 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Shaving and Facial Hair
For most men, shaving is a love/hate relationship. It’s a huge pain to shave every morning, especially for those of us who are very susceptible to razor burn and skin irritation. On the other hand, there are very few sensations in this world more satisfying than a flawless, close shave. But then again, to look great you don’t necessarily have to shave at all – beards and stubble can be sexy and masculine. In this section, I’ll cover the various options you have for your facial hair and how to achieve each look. I’ll also explain the steps required to get a super-close shave without irritating your skin.
When it comes to facial hair, there are so many factors at play. A man’s age, ethnicity, body type, hair color, and many other things determine what can and will look good. Don’t feel that you have to limit yourself to a certain style. Experiment. After you read through this section, try out a few of the different looks I describe. If you’ve always been clean shaven, for example, try growing out a bit of stubble and see if you like it. If you hate it, you can always shave it off. Experimenting with different looks is the only way to find out what style works best for you.
- 69 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Beards, Goatees, Chinstraps, Soul Patches…
Contrary to what you might see in fashion magazines, facial hair can look good if it’s done properly. You certainly don’t have to be clean-shaven to be attractive. There are a variety of facial hair options that work for some men. I should preface this by saying that you should only attempt to grow facial hair if you can grow it fully and densely. There’s nothing worse than a patchy, half- assed beard or goatee. If you’ve got bald spots or generally thin facial hair, shave it off! Later in this section I’ll explain how to get a perfect shave every time.
- 70 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Beards & Stubble
In all honesty, there are very few circumstances where a full-blown lengthy beard looks good. For the most part, long beards belong on Santa Claus and your neighborhood wino. My recommendation is to avoid anything longer than a few centimeters at most.
A very short, well-manicured beard – also often referred to as a “five o’clock shadow” – can be extremely sexy. Many actors and models successfully employ this look. It’s very masculine and gives off an air of confidence. In a recent survey of more than 1,000 women, more than 70% said they preferred George Clooney (seen above) with a beard than without. If you’re a younger man (or younger- looking), a beard can also add a few years to your age, which is often of great benefit in the workplace. Think of this type of facial hair as less of a beard and more of just a couple days worth of stubble. As an added benefit, a beard of this sort can hide skin
- 71 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
imperfections such as acne. The man seen here on the left is an example of how this look can be very effective.
To achieve this look, all you need is your trusty hair trimmer and a few minutes every second day or so. Set the hair trimmer to one of the shortest possible lengths (usually blade cover #1) and take a few minutes to run the trimmer back and forth along your whole face. Be sure to run against the grain of hair for best results. To get all of the hair properly shortened, you’ll probably have to go over each section of your face a few times. Don’t forget to trim the underside of your chin and along your neck. If your beard grows well down onto your neck, you’ll probably want to use a razor to shave this portion. Employ the same shaving techniques I describe later in this chapter, but be extra careful shaving the neck, as it’s one of the most sensitive areas. Be sure to use the trimmer at least every few days (or every day, if you’re picky about the length). Leaving it too long could end up being counterproductive by making you look dishevelled and unkempt. Remember, the goal is to look mature and masculine, not to imitate Tarzan.
- 72 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
This look works very well for older men. In fact, older men can usually get away with growing the beard a bit longer. The doctor seen here on the right has a fairly long beard by my standards – probably two or three centimeters. But even though his facial hair is white, it suits him and gives him a particularly masculine aura. Younger men, such as the gentleman pictured on the previous page, should opt for only a few days of growth.
Goatees
Goatees are similar to beards and five o’clock shadows. They can look masculine and attractive if you groom them daily and have the facial features
- 73 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
to support them. Again, similar to beards, you must have decent thick facial hair without any patches. Keep in mind that goatees can require a high level of daily maintenance – in addition to trimming the goatee itself, you also have to shave your checks, neck, and the rest of your face… so don’t grow a goatee thinking it’ll save you time during your shaving routine!
It’s generally a better idea to keep the hair on your goatee short, much like you would a beard. Long, super-thick goatees are not in style and women tend to find this less attractive than a shorter, more manicured goatee. Also, stick to the traditional “squared off” goatee (avoid the “triangular chin” goatee that was once popular).
Bald men may find goatees particularly effective – it can turn baldness from a fashion faux pas into a trendy, sexy look. Former professional tennis player Andre Agassi used the goatee to dramatically improve his appearance. If you’re not completely bald, a short crew cut or buzz cut may also work well to enhance your image.
- 74 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
A subtle, well-groomed goatee is definitely in fashion at the moment. Along the same lines as other types of facial hair, goatees can add an element of masculinity or provide a bit of “edge”.
Moustaches
When you think of moustaches nowadays, images of Ron Jeremy and the porno movies of the 1970’s come to mind. Moustaches – once one of the most fashionable trends in facial hair – have fallen completely off the map. Even Burt Reynolds has recently shed his famous moustache. If your heart is set on growing a moustache or you genuinely think it suits you, keep it short and well groomed. Young men with dark hair almost never look good with moustaches because they tend to look “greasy”. A few older men can effectively pull off a moustache. Sean Connery (pictured on the right) is a good example of this.
- 75 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Chinstraps
The chinstrap is an extension of sideburns which continues around the bottom of the chin and back up to the other side of the face. It is often used in conjunction with a goatee. It requires a lot of thick, dense facial hair, usually dark in color. A short haircut is also mandatory – chinstraps with long hair almost never look good.
Typically, darker-skinned men (African Americans, South Asians) can grow a chinstrap more easily. Chinstraps can look good, and are certainly in style, but require a lot of maintenance and upkeep. Not only do you need to keep the hair short, but you also need to carefully shave the rest of your face.
I don’t recommend that professionals grow a chinstrap. Similarly, if you’re heading to an important job interview, it doesn’t make sense to grow a chin strap or any other ultra “edgy” style of facial hair.
- 76 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Soul Patches
The soul patch got its name from the soul and R&B artists who first sported this look in the 1960’s and 70’s. It continues to be reasonably popular with those looking to add a bit of “edge” to their look, much like the goatee or the chinstrap. As I mentioned previously, this look is not suitable for anyone who needs to give off an air of professionalism or impress someone with more traditional values. In other words, it’s “greasy”. As an example, I don’t recommend heading to your girlfriend’s parents’ house for dinner sporting a scruffy soul patch and four inch sideburns.
The soul patch doesn’t require a ton of maintenance – a quick trim every day or two is enough to keep the patch in good shape. Of course, you’ll have to continue to shave the rest of your face, so you’re not saving any time. For the most part, I don’t think the soul patch is very “trendy” anymore. During the 1990’s it became so
- 77 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
common that it’s now considered by many to be cliché. Famous soccer player David Villa, seen above, looks fairly good sporting a small soul patch.
The Clean-Shaven Look
You can rarely go wrong with the totally clean-shaven look. Unless your look desperately requires a touch of “edge” or “grit,” then being clean-shaven is usually a safe bet. Ironically enough, no hair at all is currently one of the most popular trends in facial hair. Most models in today’s popular magazines sport either bit of stubble (the five o’clock shadow look, described above) or no facial hair at all.
- 78 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
This look is fairly self-explanatory: it simply requires that you shave every day. The downsides of having no facial hair are minimal, aside from the fact that it can occasionally reveal skin imperfections. Regardless, if in doubt, go for the ‘hairless’ look. As an added bonus, women usually much prefer to get up close and personal with a clean-shaven man (one ex-girlfriend once told me that kissing me when I had a few days of facial hair growth was like kissing a porcupine). Mario Lopez, pictured here, is a perfect example of a guy who looks great without any facial hair at all.
The Perfect Shave
Every man wants a perfect shave. In the steps below, I’ll outline how to get an extremely close shave while minimizing or eliminating razor burn and irritation. The process I describe is called a “wet shave,” and it uses the same shaving tools that continue to be popular today in barber shops. Despite the fact that at home almost all men now use crappy plastic razors and cheap shaving foam, traditional shaving equipment still work best.
- 79 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Required Tools & Equipment
A badger hair shaving brush. As I will explain below, this is of critical importance to getting a close shave. You can find such a brush online, at your local shaving store, or possibly also at some higher-end drug stores. It doesn’t need to be expensive, but it does need to be genuine badger hair. Boar or synthetic hair brushes do not work as well. Prices for authentic wooden badger hair brushes begin at about $25 and go up from there.
A good razor. Do not use a Bic-style plastic disposable razor. The blades on these products are of a very low quality (hence their disposable nature) and can end up yanking out your facial hair, which is a major cause of skin irritation. At the very minimum, use a high end cartridge razor such as the Gillette Mach 3 or Schick Quattro. Better yet, if you’re serious about getting a close, irritation-free shave, invest in a traditional
- 80 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
double-edged safety razor. Merkur is a great brand of German- important safety razors that can easily be found online. Other models can be found in local shaving stores. Prices range from $30 for a low- end model all the way up to $120 for a vintage deluxe edition (nifty, but unnecessary).
A good glycerin-based shaving cream. Preferably, use a shaving cream that comes in a tub. It’s a bit pricier than a can of shaving foam, but it also works a lot better at softening and lifting your facial hairs. A single tub should last you several months. Again, a variety of brands are available online. If you prefer to buy in-person, I also found a good glycerin shaving tub at The Body Shop (www.thebodyshop.com, 2500 worldwide locations). It’s aptly named “For Men Shave Cream”. Unfortunately, you typically won’t find glycerin shaving creams at your local drug store.
Although it’s optional, a good alcohol-free aftershave can be of great benefit to those who are prone to irritation and razor burn. I stress that it should be alcohol free. Also, because you don’t want the scent of the
- 81 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
aftershave to clash with your cologne or “eau de toilette,” try to find something that smells mild or is scent-free. Alcohol free aftershaves can be found at many drug stores or online. As I mentioned earlier, The Body Shop also has a variety of shave products including a couple of alcohol-free aftershave balms. As a cheap alternative, you can also follow up your shave with a good, non-comedogenic moisturizer (I’ll go into more depth on moisturizers in the “Skin Care” chapter). If you want to go this route, I recommend Cetaphil Daily Moisturizer, available at your local drug store.
A sink full of clean, hot (but not scalding) water.
A mirror.
A clean towel to pat your face dry.
Five minutes of your time.
- 82 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
The Shaving Process
1) Always shave after a hot shower. If you don’t have time to shower, or you need to shave at another time of day, begin the shave by soaking your face with a warm, wet facecloth. Warm water opens your pores and softens your facial hair. Use the hottest water that you can tolerate, but obviously don’t burn yourself.
2) Fill up the sink with hot water. Begin by thoroughly wetting your face again. Since this is called a “wet shave,” the key is to keep your face wet at all points during the shave.
3) Thoroughly wet your shaving brush, then let it drip into the sink a bit so that it’s damp but not drenched. Dip the brush into your can of shaving cream and skim the brush back and forth across your face and neck. The combination of the brush, the water, and the glycerin shaving cream will lift the hairs and open your pores. The cream will keep your facial hairs standing on end, exposing the maximum hair length to the razor blade. As an added bonus, the shaving brush also exfoliates the skin on your face.
- 83 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
4) Once your face is sporting a nice Helpful Hint opaque layer of lather, leave the If you’re used to disposable shaving cream to soak in for 30 razors, this method will be a seconds. Rinse your razor in the sink, huge improvement. But remember to be gentle and and begin shaving with the grain of do not apply any pressure! A your facial hair. The key here is to double-edged safety razor is apply as little pressure as possible – effective only when you just gently slide the razor down your move the blade slowly and extremely gently. Press too cheeks and neck. If you’re using a hard and you may cut cartridge razor, you may have to yourself. apply a small amount of pressure. Ideally, however, you’ll have a double-edged safety razor and you can apply next to no pressure. Always run the blade in the same North-South direction as your hair. Rinse the razor in the sink after every stroke.
5) If you want an extremely close shave, you can repeat steps 3 and 4 and re- lather your face again. This time, again being extremely slow and gentle, shave against the grain of your hairs. Be warned, however: shaving against
- 84 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
the grain (South-North) is much more likely to cause irritation. If you normally have problems with razor burn, don’t bother with this step. This is especially true for African-American men who are prone to “shave bumps”.
6) Rinse your face with cold water. Give your shave brush a good rinse, too, and store it with the wooden handle facing downwards for longevity. Pat your face dry with a clean towel. Don’t rub, as this will cause irritation – just pat the skin dry.
7) Follow up with either an alcohol-free aftershave balm or a non- comedogenic moisturizer.
Once you master the “wet shave” technique, it shouldn’t take more than 3 or 4 minutes to perform. Some men with slower-growing facial hair may only have to shave every second day. When first using a double-edged safety razor, you will probably nick yourself a couple of times. Don’t worry, once you stop applying pressure and get a few shaves under your belt you’ll experience a major decrease in skin irritation and a dramatically closer, more satisfying shave.
- 85 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Chapter Four | Skin Care
One of the most important factors in determining your overall appearance is your skin. You may be able to hide your chest hair or your beer belly, but as soon as you leave the house it’s impossible to hide your face. For this reason, proper skin care is absolutely crucial. Before I begin going into more depth on skin care, there’s two things you should keep in mind:
Every man has different skin care requirements. There’s no secret “cure-all” to give you great skin. The best advice I can give is to apply a skin care regimen that best suits your own needs. Only use products specifically developed for your skin type (I’ll explain shortly). Using the wrong product could have detrimental effects.
Simplicity is best. Most of the time, spending too much time rubbing special creams into your skin will actually be counterproductive and end up further irritating your skin. Don’t get me wrong, paying attention to your skin care routine is important, but keep it simple.
- 86 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Facial Skin Care
Skin is generally divided into four categories, each of which has unique characteristics and requirements:
1) Oily skin: Men with oily skin are most susceptible to acne breakouts. Pores may be large or clogged. Skin will appear greasy or shiny, especially on the forehead and the bridge of the nose (the “T” zone).
2) Combination skin: Combination skin is mildly oily, but less so than for men with full-blown oily skin. Breakouts are less likely but still occasionally problematic.
3) Normal skin: Normal skin is generally considered to be an ideal skin type. Pores are small and breakouts extremely rare.
- 87 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
4) Dry skin: Truly dry skin is relatively rare. Men with this skin type will have flakes and may notice that the skin feels “tight”.
Whenever you buy skin care products, try to keep your skin type in mind. If you have oily skin, for example, you don’t want to buy products that will lead to even more oil and clog pores. Conversely, men with dry skin will want moisturizing products and need not worry as much about clogging pores. Keeping this in mind, let’s take a look at some of the key components involved in a good facial skin care routine.
Cleanser: Use morning and night.
Moisturizer: Use morning and night immediately after either shaving (morning) or cleansing.
Eye cream (optional): Use as needed (usually in the morning) after cleansing and moisturizing.
- 88 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Facial scrub/defoliant: Every few days in the shower, directly after cleansing.
This may sound like a fairly involved process, but it shouldn’t add more than two minutes to your daily routine. Cleansing and moisturizing should only take a minute or so, and a defoliant or facial scrub only needs to be applied every few days in the shower. Using eye cream is completely optional, but recommended for older men or those who suffer from puffiness/dark circles around the eyes. Again, this should only take a moment or two to apply, so there’s no sense in skipping this step.
1) Cleanser. Using a good cleanser is the first step in achieving vibrant, healthy looking skin. The goal of a cleanser is to remove all of the dirt, grime, and oil from the surface of your skin. Additionally, it will remove dead skin cells and can help prevent acne blemishes. Cleansers should be used in the morning (in the shower, ideally, and before shaving) and then again at night before bed.
- 89 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
To apply the cleanser, first wash your hands with soap and warm water. Then splash water on your face. Rub a quarter-sized amount of cleanser onto your hands and gently apply to your face and neck in a circular motion. Once you’ve reached a mild lather, leave the cleanser on your face for 15-20 seconds. Rinse it off with a few splashes of lukewarm water. If you’re in the shower, this should be easy. At the sink, make sure you do a few rinses to make sure you get all of it off.
As mentioned, when buying a cleanser, buy one that is made for your skin type. Most will specifically say “for oily skin” or “for dry skin” on them. Some drug stores will have sample sizes of products available. There’s certainly no harm in asking. Don’t buy a product that claims to ‘exfoliate’ – this is a separate process that should be done every few days. A “pH balanced” cleanser is best. This eliminates the need for a toning product (which I have purposefully removed from this regimen for simplicity purposes).
- 90 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
A good cleanser will make your skin feel cleaner and healthier, but you may not notice a visual difference if you don’t have oily skin.
2) Moisturizer. Moisturizer is an important part of the daily facial skin care routine for all men, not just those with dry skin. A moisturizer can help to balance your skin’s natural oils, which can actually reduce the shine and oil on the surface of your skin. Apply a moisturizer after shaving in the morning (or after your shower/face wash, if you have a beard and don’t shave). Gently pat your face dry before applying the moisturizer. Rub in a dime-sized amount all over your face. Don’t use too much, and rub only until the lotion is no longer visible. Too much rubbing can irritate your skin.
Look for a moisturizer that is “non-comedogenic” (won’t clog pores) and “oil- free”, even if you have no acne problems.
- 91 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Just like some cleansers, many moisturizers will specify which skin type they’re for. If possible, find one for your skin type. Several different dermatologists have recommended “Cetaphil Daily Moisturizer” to me. I have been using this brand for several years with excellent results. It is non-comedogenic and available at your local drug store. Some men may forgo using aftershave and opt instead for a good moisturizer. This is perfectly acceptable if you are not prone to razor burn or post-shave skin irritation. If you do use aftershave, simply apply the moisturizer directly after.
3) Eye Cream (or Gel). An optional step that will be most useful for men over 40 or who suffer from redness, puffiness or bags under the eyes. Eye creams are typically made to reduce fine lines or “crow’s feet” from the corners of your eyes. Again, this product is generally used by middle aged and older men, but some younger men may find it useful in preventing lines. Eye gels can reduce redness, puffiness, and dark bags from under
- 92 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
your eyes.
Both gels and creams should be applied once a day (or as needed) after moisturizing. Use a very small drop of the product and gently dab it under your eyes. Rub very gently until it is fully absorbed. Don’t worry if you don’t see an immediate improvement, as eye creams can occasionally take a few days before any positive effects are noticeable.
4) Facial Scrub. A facial scrub is used to exfoliate and remove dead skin cells as well as prevent or reduce the appearance of blemishes. Most facial scrubs are useful for all four skin types, but men prone to acne or with very sensitive skin should skip this step as it may further irritate your face. This type of scrub will usually contain tiny hard particles that will exfoliate the skin on your face. I know it doesn’t sound very masculine, but it’s definitely a beneficial step and an important part of a good facial skin care regimen. Use the facial scrub in the shower, once every two to four days. Rub it around gently for 20-30 seconds before rinsing thoroughly. Do this prior to
- 93 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
shaving (and prior to moisturizing – I’ve included it as the last item in this list simply because it does not need to be done daily).
Helpful Hint All four of these products – cleansers, Next time you’re at a moisturizers, eye cream, and a facial scrub – can pharmacy or cosmetics store be purchased at your local drug store. For the shopping for skin care most part, I am not able to suggest specific products, ask the cosmetician on duty if they products because every man has different needs have a sample size of the and not all products are universally available. product you’re looking for. When shopping for skin care products, as a Often times they will have a wide variety of samplers general rule of thumb, remember that “you get behind the counter. This what you pay for.” As an exception, sometimes way you can try a product products priced in the mid-range can be as before buying it. effective as the most expensive ones.
Don’t hesitate to talk to the cosmetician at your local pharmacy, but take their advice with a grain of salt. Some cosmeticians are very knowledgeable, but some are teenagers that have been hired because they’ll work for minimum wage, not for their
- 94 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
knowledge or experience. If you have a specific skin care problem (such as eczema or acne, discussed in a later section), seek out the advice of a dermatologist.
As a final note, there are other products and processes that can be applied to care for your face, but I find most of these are of little benefit to the majority of men. One such example is the clay mask, something you apply every so often to remove the toxins from your skin. Granted, this may be beneficial for some men, but for most it represents little more than a hassle and a method of further irritating your skin. If you are especially concerned about skin care, I recommend you scour the internet or the phone book for a spa that specializes in treating men. There you can get a facial (among other things) that is administered by an expert.
Other Skin Care
The skin on your face is the most important and the most sensitive on your entire body. For that reason, skin care for the rest of your body is much simpler. It consists of two steps, one of which is optional:
- 95 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
1) Once a day in the shower, use body soap to clean your entire body. Use a shower brush with an extended handle to reach your back. Don’t neglect any area. Picking a brand of soap is fairly simple: if you suffer from dry or flaky skin, pick a soap that is designed to moisturize (as with other skin care products, it should say “for dry skin” or “with moisturizer”). If not, then just pick any unscented soap. Whether you prefer a liquid soap or bar is up to you, but bar soap is typically far more economical.
2) As an optional second step, use a moisturizer on any parts of your body that tend to get dry. For many man, this will include their forearms and hands. Others will find their shins and calves are susceptible to dryness. Again, go for a moisturizer that’s oil-free and non-comedogenic.
- 96 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Acne
I suffered with moderate to severe acne throughout my teens and well into my twenties. As a result, acne is a topic very near to my heart. It can have an incredibly debilitating impact on a person’s confidence. Even mild acne can be enough to keep you locked up in the house afraid to show your face to the world. Thankfully, we now live in an era where the mysteries of acne have been at least somewhat unraveled. In this day and age, no-one should be forced to live with moderate or severe acne. There is no single cure to acne, but rather a number of available treatments that can greatly lessen the severity. In this section I will address a number of these treatment options and weigh the pros and cons.
What Is Acne?
Acne is an inflammatory skin condition that leads to clogged pores, whiteheads, blackheads, pimples, and cysts. Oil glands beneath the skin’s surface release a substance known as sebum, which lubricates hair follicles and the skin surface. Sometimes, these hair follicles can become blocked with dead skin cells and
- 97 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
fill with sebum. This results in the formation of bacteria-filled pustules (yum!) such as whiteheads, blackheads, and pimples. In severe cases, these can lead to large, long-lasting nodules and cysts. The effects of acne are purely cosmetic and psychological. Acne poses no health risk, and it is not contagious (it can’t spread to other people, anyway).
What Causes Acne?
Although it’s not fully understood, it is thought that over-production of sebum in certain individuals results in acne. This may be brought on by hormonal changes, which is why acne is most common in adolescents and teenagers. That said, many men struggle with acne for a much longer period of time, sometimes even into middle age.
There are a number of risk factors which can promote or cause acne. These may include:
• Family history. Genetics are the single largest factor in determining whether or not a person will suffer from acne.
- 98 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
• Hormones. Acne seems to be most common during times of hormonal change (ie. adolescence, or menstruation in women).
• Oil-based cosmetics or skin care products. • Topical or oral medications such as corticosteroids, androgens, lithium, halogens, isoniazid, phenytoin, or Phenobarbital.
• Irritation from rubbing or contact. Items such as headbands, helmets, headsets, hats, glasses, or tight collars can all irritate the skin and cause acne outbreaks.
• Squeezing, picking, or rubbing any existing pimples. Any form of picking or irritation is only likely to worsen acne.
• Allergies. In some cases, acne may be an allergic reaction.
Please note that despite popular opinion, this list does not include chocolate, fast food, stress, or lack of hygiene. Generally speaking, none of these play a major role in causing acne. There certain are schools of thought within the scientific community that suggest diet and stress may play a small part in acne, but the factors listed above are the most common.
- 99 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Determining Severity
Before you choose an anti-acne treatment program, it is important to first determine how severe your acne is. Obviously someone suffering from a single pimple each week will need to take a different treatment route than someone who is battling severe cysts and new pimples on a daily basis.
Mild (Grade 1) Acne:
Mild acne is characterized mainly by mildly oily skin, some blackheads, some whiteheads, and occasional non-inflamed blemishes (pimples). Affected areas typically include the forehead, cheeks, and nose. Mild acne will cause no permanent scarring. Mild acne can almost always be controlled using over-the-counter methods.
This form of acne is not considered debilitating in any way. For those with more severe forms of acne, reducing your severity level to “mild” would be
- 100 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
considered an excellent outcome.
Treatment options for grade 1 acne may include:
Salicylic Acid Benzoyl Peroxide Topical retinoids Topical antibiotics
Moderate (Grade 2) Acne:
Moderate acne involves a greater number of blackheads and whiteheads as well as more frequent pimples. Some inflammation may be noticed, and there may be several pimples active at any given time. Commonly affected areas are the forehead, nose, cheeks, chin, and jawline, although smaller numbers of blemishes may also form on the neck, back, and chest. Minor scarring or discoloration may occur, but it usually fades within a few weeks.
- 101 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Moderate acne can have a definite impact on self-confidence and general overall appearance. Initial steps to combat moderate acne include over-the-counter topical treatments, but prescription drugs such as oral antibiotics may be required. If a few weeks of dedicated topical treatment does not yield results, see a doctor.
Treatment options for grade 2 acne may include:
Salicylic acid Benzoyl peroxide Sulfur products Topical retinoids Topical antibiotics Oral antibiotics
Moderate/Severe (Grade 3) Acne:
Grade 3 acne is considered to be relatively severe. It is characterized by an increased number of whiteheads, blackheads, and pimples. Blemishes will be larger
- 102 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
and remain active for a longer period of time. Pimples may appear anywhere on the face and may also be common on the back, shoulders and chest. At least some of the blemishes will lead to discoloration and possibly permanent scarring.
This form of acne can have a significant impact on a person’s confidence. Although over-the-counter products may help to reduce the number or severity of blemishes, anyone suffering from grade 3 acne should see a doctor (and get a referral to a competent dermatologist).
Treatment options for grade 3 acne may include:
Salicylic acid Benzoyl peroxide Topical retinoids Topical antibiotics Oral antibiotics Isotretinoin (Accutane)
- 103 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Severe/Cystic (Grade 4) Acne:
This is the most severe form of acne. There will be many active pimples at any given time, some of which will be very large cysts. A cyst is a blemish that is red and hard, typically larger than 1cm in diameter. It will be severely inflamed and may be painful. Cysts take a long time to dissipate and may leave severe, pitted scars. Acne may appear anywhere on the face, neck, throat, and torso. Scarring is extremely likely.
Grade 4 acne will very rarely respond to any sort of topical treatment. The only treatment considered to be very effective in reducing severe cystic acne is isotretinoin (Accutane), an extremely powerful drug available only through your dermatologist. To avoid scarring, anyone with severe cystic acne should see a doctor as soon as possible.
Treatment options for grade 4 acne may include:
Salicylic acid Benzoyl peroxide Topical retinoids
- 104 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Topical antibiotics Oral antibiotics Isotretinoin (Accutane)
Clinical Treatment Options
Thanks to modern medicine, there are a wide variety of anti-acne agents available. Each has benefits and drawbacks, so the section below will outline the various treatment options. They are listed roughly in order of “strength,” although that does not necessarily mean the over-the-counter options listed first will be less successful than the expensive and powerful options mentioned later.
Salicylic acid: Salicylic acid is a very common anti-acne agent typically found in cleansers, lotions, creams, or facial treatment pads. It helps to remove the dead skin cells from the surface of hair follicles, thus preventing the blocking of pores. It’s quite effective in cases of very mild acne. It can usually be found in concentrations between 0.5% and 2.0%. A higher percentage is not always
- 105 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
better, so start with a lower concentration and gradually work your way up. Because it’s acidic, it can sometimes irritate sensitive skin. Salicylic acid products must be used daily (usually once or twice a day, in the place of a facial cleanser). It should be spread over your whole face and neck, not just on the trouble areas. It can take some time for the product to be effective – sometimes several weeks or more. Do not lose hope if salicylic acid doesn’t work immediately. Side effects are usually very minor (if they appear at all). They may include redness, dryness, itching, and flaking. If these side effects are bothersome, try lowering the % of the product you’re using. You can usually mitigate the dryness by applying a good non-comedogenic moisturizer. If they persist for a long period, stop using salicylic acid and try a different treatment. Common brands include the Oxy, Noxzema, and Stridex product lines. As mentioned, they come in a variety of forms from gels and cleansers to pads that you dab on your face. A bit of experimentation may be required to find the method that works best for you. Prices range greatly but most products are quite inexpensive.
- 106 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
All-in-all, salicylic acid can be a good first step in combating acne. For those only prone to very occasional pimples and a few blackheads, a once- daily application will usually be an effective cure.
Benzoyl Peroxide: Perhaps the single most common anti-acne product available over-the-counter, benzoyl peroxide has been around for many years. It works by introducing oxygen to the pores of the skin, which in turn kills some of the bacteria residing there. Like salicylic acid, it can also help remove dead skin cells from hair follicles.
Benzoyl peroxide is available in both creams and gels, and is usually applied twice daily (morning and night). A thin layer should be gently applied on clean, dry skin (after washing your face with a cleanser, and before moisturizing). Make sure you cover all affected areas, not just active blemishes.
It is typically available in concentrations between 2.5% and 10%. Again, as with salicylic acid, start with a lower concentration to reduce possible side effects. Make sure you use the product every day, and give it some time to
- 107 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
begin working. It can take several weeks before having any positive effect. Once you begin to see your acne clear up, do not stop using the cream. If you stop using it, your acne will return.
Side effects are not common, although you can expect some minor redness, itching, or flaking when you start using it. For this reason, it is often recommended that you start by applying once every second day and slowly increase the frequency of use. If these problems persist, try using a lower strength product or only applying once a day. As a word of warning, be careful when applying benzoyl peroxide on your chest or back: it can bleach clothing. Do not allow it to come in contact with your shirt or pillow case if you don’t want them stained! I learned this the hard way by sacrificing several expensive shirts. Oops.
Benzoyl Peroxide is often sold under the brand names Clearasil, Neutrogena Clean & Clear, and Proactiv (yes, the product in those infomercials is exactly the same as all the other ones at your local drug store!). Prices are very reasonable, but you need to use a fair amount to cover your entire face, so expect to dish out $10 or $15 every few weeks.
- 108 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Benzoyl peroxide is an excellent way of combating mild acne, and of all the over-the-counter medications, it has the highest chance of success. Here is a sample skin care routine involving benzoyl peroxide that many people have used for years with excellent results:
1) Gently wash your face with a very mild cleanser (such as Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser). Pat (never rub!) your face dry with a towel and wait a few minutes until it’s completely dry. 2) If you need to shave, do so after cleansing your face and before applying the benzoyl peroxide. If you use a facial scrub or exfoliating product, now is also the time to use it. 3) Apply a thin layer of benzoyl peroxide over your forehead, cheeks, nose, chin, jawline, and neck. Don’t rub it in, be very gentle. 4) Thoroughly wash your hands, wait another five to ten minutes for the product to dry. During this time you don’t have to wait around, you can get dressed, brush your teeth, etc. 5) Apply a thin layer of oil-free, non-comedogenic moisturizer over your entire face. This will remove any flakes or dryness caused by the
- 109 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
benzoyl peroxide.
Following the steps above should almost certainly guarantee at least some improvement for those with mild or even moderate acne. Keep in mind, however, that it can take weeks for any anti-acne product to start working. The same applies for benzoyl peroxide, so make sure that you give it some time to start working!
Sulfur: One of the oldest acne treatments available, sulfur is the main active ingredient in a few mainstream anti-acne treatments. It is usually combined with another anti-acne ingredient such as resorcinol or sodium sulfacetamide. Sulfur helps to encourage peeling and the formation of new layers of skin, which can reduce pore blockages.
Sulfur is found in a wide array of skin care products, including soaps, cleansers, lotions, and spot-treatments. One of the most common sulfur- based products is Clearasil Adult Care. As with other over-the-counter topical
- 110 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
treatments, follow the directions carefully as some need to be rinsed off after a few minutes and others left on overnight.
Reviews on sulfur products are mixed. It seems to be most effective in mitigating the formation of blackheads, but does little to prevent actual acne blemishes. If you have mild acne and you’ve had no success with salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide, you can give sulfur products a try. Generally, I would consider sulfur to be a “last resort” product.
Topical Antibiotics: Available by prescription, topical antibiotics are one of the first things a doctor will generally prescribe to treat mild or moderate acne. They are more powerful than over-the-counter topical products such as benzoyl peroxide, but still fairly gentle on your skin. Antibiotics kill the bacteria present in the skin’s follicles, thus reducing inflammation and blemishes. Typically, antibiotics are not very effective at reducing blackheads, but they can help prevent the formation of pimples.
Topical antibiotics normally come in creams or gels which you apply once or twice daily. Clindamycin, erythromycin, and sodium sulfacetamide are three of the most common products. Your doctor may also prescribe a
- 111 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
product that is combined with some other active ingredient, such as benzoyl peroxide or a topical retinoid. All topical antibiotics should be applied after washing your face with a gentle cleanser. Make sure your face has time to dry before applying the antibiotics, and apply it to all the areas that are prone to acne, not just on active blemishes. Sometimes minor side effects can occur, but these are similar to most other acne products. They can include redness, itching, and dry/flaking skin – nothing too serious.
Topical antibiotics should begin to work within a few weeks. Overall, these can be an effective treatment for those with moderate acne, but don’t count on topical antibiotics to solve any serious acne problems. For most doctors, antibiotics are a first treatment. If you don’t see any noticeable improvement within a month, ask your doctor about topical retinoids and/or oral antibiotics, as these tend to be more successful at treating more severe acne.
Topical Retinoids: Retinoids are an increasingly popular anti-acne treatment. They are available only by prescription through a doctor or dermatologist. Retinoids are designed to exfoliate the skin and encourage the turnover of skin
- 112 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
layers, which helps to keep pores unclogged. They are derived from a synthetic form of vitamin A, and are often considered to the topical form of Accutane (which will be discussed later in this section). As a side benefit, topical retinoids can help reduce scarring and even work as an anti-aging treatment.
There are three main topical retinoids: tazarotene (brand name products include Avage and Tazorac), tretinoin (Retin A), and adapalene (Differin). Most retinoids are applied once daily and left on the skin for five to ten minutes, and then rinsed off. Be sure to carefully follow the instructions on the package, as leaving the product on your skin for too long can cause irritation, redness, and flaking. In general, these are the only main side effects, although you may also find your skin is more sensitive to sunlight, so be sure to always wear sunscreen if you’re using a topical retinoid.
Many people with moderate and severe acne have excellent success with topical retinoids, especially when combined with an oral antibiotic. Retinoids are particularly effective at treating existing blemishes, as their drying/peeling action can reduce redness more quickly than other products. As with all the other products mentioned in this section, you will need apply
- 113 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
the product for at least a few weeks before you can expect to see any marked improvement.
Oral Antibiotics: Since acne is caused partially by bacteria, oral antibiotics can help to fight acne from the inside out. Only a doctor or dermatologist can prescribe antibiotics, and they can have some moderate or even severe side effects. That said, oral antibiotics, especially when combined with some form of topical treatment (such as a topical retinoid or benzoyl peroxide), can be very effective in treating moderate and severe acne.
There are several different types of oral antibiotics, each of which has different benefits and drawbacks. Some of the most commonly prescribed include tetracycline, minocyline, erythromycin, doxycycline, and septra (also known as bactrim). Some, such as minocycline, are safe for long-term use. Others, like septra, can only be used for a set time period. Your doctor will determine which particular antibiotic is right for you.
All oral antibiotics come in pill form, and you may take anywhere from one to four pills a day. For maximum effectiveness, try not to miss any doses.
- 114 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
You can safely combine most topical treatments with oral antibiotics, but be aware that your skin may be especially sensitive to the sun. Other side effects may vary depending on which antibiotic you’re taking, but they can include: nausea, diarrhea, stomach cramps, skin rash, headaches, and dizziness. These are not common, but stop taking the drug and see a doctor if they occur.
Prices for oral antibiotics are generally quite reasonable, although this will vary depending on where you live and what kind of medical insurance coverage you have (if any). As a word of caution, keep in mind that antibiotics are not a permanent fix for acne. If you stop taking the antibiotics, then your acne will likely return. To prevent a bad breakout when you stop taking an antibiotic, wean off the drug slowly rather stopping “cold turkey”. Also be aware that you may develop a tolerance to some antibiotics, meaning that over time they become less effective as your body becomes adjusted. If this occurs, your doctor may switch you to a different antibiotic or a different type of treatment altogether.
Antibiotics work very well for some individuals and very poorly for others. As an example, when I was struggling with acne, I used both tetracycline and minocycline with almost no improvement whatsoever. Once I
- 115 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
switched to septra, however, my acne began clearing. After two months, my acne had almost completely disappeared. It is difficult to say which antibiotics will work for you, so discuss the various options with your doctor or dermatologist. It may take a month or more before you see an improvement, so be patient.
Isotretinoin (Accutane): Accutane (whose generic name is “isotretinoin”) is the most well-known anti-acne drug for a variety of reasons. For starters, Accutane is the only known “cure” for acne. No other drug can permanently eliminate or reduce acne. All other treatments are only a temporary fix that only calm down acne. Once you stop taking them, your acne will return as it had previously. In addition to its incredible effectiveness, Accutane is also well known for its vast array of unwanted side effects.
Like the topical retinoids previously mentioned, Accutane is a synthetic vitamin A derivative. Scientists are not entirely certain how Accutane works, but it is known that Accutane shrinks the skin’s oil glands and discourages the production of sebum. Since acne-causing bacteria live in skin oil, the amount
- 116 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
of bacteria present is also greatly reduced. These factors combine to make Accutane very effective at combating acne.
Accutane is taken once or twice daily. Your doctor will determine your exact dosage, and it is dependent on your body weight. Typically, you will be prescribed between 0.5mg and 2.0mg per day. A typical cycle of Accutane lasts between three and six months. Because Accutane builds up in your body, you must continue taking it even if your acne clears up. Taking a larger dose will help to ensure that your skin stays clear long after you stop taking Accutane.
In many cases, when the proper dose is taken, Accutane can completely cure a person’s acne. In fact, only about one third of all people who take Accutane have a significant relapse and require further treatment. Even in those people who require further treatment, most see a marked improvement for a number of months after taking Accutane. Given this very high success rate, it’s easy to see why Accutane has become a very popular form of treatment.
Unfortunately, like any medication, Accutane has its drawbacks. It is a very powerful drug with the potential to cause numerous serious side effects.
- 117 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
The two most common side effects are chapped lips and dry skin. Almost all users experience at least some dry skin, which is a result of Accutane reducing the skin’s natural production of oil. Other common side effects include nose bleeds (caused by the drying of nasal passages), muscle and joint aches, and fatigue. For pregnant women Accutane is extremely dangerous as it can cause very serious birth defects. Women who use Accutane must complete a pregnancy test before beginning Accutane and must always use two reliable methods of birth control.
A small percentage of users have reported severe and debilitating side effects such as depression, vision problems, headaches, elevated cholesterol and liver enzymes, loss of libido, heart problems, anxiety, and mood changes. Keep in mind that these side effects are very rare, but they are all documented as potential side effects.
One of the most serious and dangerous side effects linked to Accutane is depression. There has been an ongoing debate over the past two decades regarding the potential for Accutane to cause depression and suicide. It is known that Accutane (and high doses of Vitamin A) can cause chemical changes in the brain which result in psychological symptoms. One of these
- 118 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
symptoms may be depression. Since acne on its own can lead to depression and even suicide, it is difficult to say whether or not Accutane promotes suicidal behavior. Recent studies have indicated that rates of depression and suicide may not be any higher than normal for those taking Accutane.
Regardless, it is always best to err on the side of caution. The use of Accutane must be closely monitored by a doctor. Before you begin Accutane, you’ll be required to sign a consent form stating that you understand the risks involved. You will be expected to see your doctor every month and to undergo regular blood tests. The blood tests will monitor your cholesterol, lipids, triglycerides, and liver enzymes to ensure that your body is not having any adverse response to the drug.
Within a week or two of beginning your Accutane treatment, you will notice that your lips and skin will become quite dry. Chapped and cracked lips are common. These side effects can be controlled through the use of a non- comedogenic moisturizer and a quality lip balm (I recommend Blistex Lip Medex which comes in a small blue circular container). Don’t ever leave the house without a chapstick! When I was taking Accutane, I took my Blistex and a small travel-size container of moisturizer everywhere I went. The drying of
- 119 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
your skin and lips can be very frustrating, but having these two items available at all times helps control the dryness.
Those using Accutane may also want to purchase some sort of lubricating nasal spray. These products are generally just a saline solution (salt water) that you spray into each nostril a few times a day. They lubricate your nasal passages and can prevent discomfort and nose bleeds. I have used the Rhinaris brand of nasal mist with excellent results. If you wear contact lenses, you may also want to consider buying some lubricating eye drops.
It can take a long time after you begin taking Accutane before you start seeing results. Although some people may notice an improvement in their skin after only three or four weeks, most people do not see a marked improvement until about two or three months into the treatment. Unfortunately, your acne may actually get worse before it gets better. This is just part of the Accutane process. It’s important, though, to keep faith – Accutane has a positive effect in more than 95% of all users who take it, so do not stop just because you don’t see immediate results.
One of the biggest barriers facing many Accutane patients is cost. Accutane is an extremely expensive drug, and even a normal dose may cost
- 120 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
several hundred dollars a month if you don’t have medical insurance. There are a couple of options to reduce the cost of Accutane: first, you can ask your dermatologist to request that you be given a “generic” brand of Accutane. Generic brands are the exact same drug (isotretinoin) but are marketed under a different name. Some generic brands include Amnesteem, Claravis, and Sotret. A second option to help reduce the cost is to ask your doctor to prescribe a lower dose over a longer period of time. Although it will take longer before you see positive results, the total dose ingested in the long run will be the same – and your monthly costs will be lower.
Because of its ability to crush your self-confidence, acne can have a serious impact on all areas of your life. It can hold you back from living life the way you want to live it. As a result, despite the costs and the risks that Accutane poses, I strongly recommend Accutane as an option for severe acne. Keep in mind that Accutane is a last resort – it should not be used for mild or moderate acne, and it should not be used until all other options have been exhausted. However, if you suffer from severe, scarring acne, you should see a dermatologist as soon as possible to discuss Accutane.
- 121 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Homeopathic & Natural Treatment Options
I am a strong believer in the magic of modern science, so I’m skeptical of any “natural” remedies that claim to work as well as their pharmaceutical counterparts. Nevertheless, when it comes to acne there are a number of people who have had excellent success with natural or homeopathic anti-acne remedies. Some of these have scientific research proving that they can be helpful in fighting acne, others are based more on traditional knowledge or rumor. If you have exhausted all the clinical treatment options or just want to try a more natural route to your acne treatment, you may want to try some of these options. In this section, I’ll outline a few of the most common herbal and natural acne treatments.
Nutrition: Although there’s no real evidence that specific foods cause acne, many people feel there’s a strong correlation between diet and breakouts. This is especially relevant for adults, who think that acne may be a form of allergic reaction to certain foods. If you think a certain food may be causing your breakouts, try cutting that food out of your diet completely. Make sure you don’t eat that food for at least a few weeks to give it a fair test. You can
- 122 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
continually cut out different foods to test if they’re the problem, but make sure you only cut out one food at a time. Many people also try to eat healthy or cut out simple sugars from their diet. Some doctors suggest that maintaining a low glycemic-index (GI) diet may also help improve your skin and reduce the frequency and intensity of breakouts.
Zinc: Zinc supplements are an increasingly popular anti-acne treatment. They have been scientifically proven to slightly reduce breakouts. The recommended dose is 30mg once per day. Taking more than 60mg per day can have negative side effects, including nausea, vomiting, and anemia. To avoid stomach discomfort, take your daily zinc pill with food. Zinc can also have a negative interaction with some oral antibiotics, so if you are on antibiotics, speak to a doctor before taking a zinc supplement. Be aware that zinc comes in different forms: zinc gluconate, zinc sulfate, and zinc acetate. The important thing to watch for is elemental zinc: you want to consume 30mg of elemental zinc per day. The percentage of elemental zinc varies by form. For example, approximately 23% of zinc sulfate consists of elemental zinc; thus, 220 mg of zinc sulfate contains 50 mg of elemental zinc. The elemental zinc content appears in the Supplement Facts panel on the
- 123 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
supplement container. Make sure you read these stats and figure out the elemental zinc content before buying a zinc supplement. Overall, zinc is fairly affordable, with a 100-pill bottle costing around $10.
Niacinamide: Niacinamide is a topical gel usually found in 4% concentration. One study found that applying niacinamide gel twice daily over a four month period improved acne symptoms in a large portion of the users.
Tea Tree Oil: Tea tree oil, applied as a 5% topical gel, can help decrease the amount of bacteria on the skin. Less bacteria means less breakouts. It can be purchased at natural health food stores. Apply once or twice daily, after your normal facial cleansing routine. If applied regularly over a few months, you should see a reasonable reduction in acne symptoms.
Procedural Treatment Options
Over the past few years, there has been a huge rise in the popularity of so- called “procedural” treatments. These are procedures performed by dermatologists
- 124 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
or estheticians designed to be used in conjunction with other topical or oral treatments. Some of them have questionable scientific backing, so be sure to thoroughly research any procedure before forking over your hard-earned money.
Chemical Peels: Chemical peels use an acidic agent to exfoliate the top layers of skin. This removes the dead skin cells and decreases the chances of blemishes forming. For those with mild or moderate acne, estheticians may use chemical peels as part of a facial. Those with more serious acne should ask their dermatologist to perform a chemical peel.
Microdermabrasion: This procedure, which is carried out by an esthetician or a dermatologist, involves the use of a small machine to remove the top layers of skin. The removal of the top skin layers helps to remove dead skin cells and debris from within the pores. It’s not painful, but it’s not cheap, either. Microdermabrasion is usually used to treat patients with numerous whiteheads and blackheads, not with severe acne. It is also commonly used as a post-acne treatment to remove scars.
- 125 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Phototherapy: Phototherapy, also often referred to as “blue light therapy,” is becoming an increasingly popular anti-acne treatment. In most types of phototherapy, a dermatologist uses strong lights or lasers to kill all the bacteria residing in the top layers of your skin. Other methods focus on reducing inflammation or shrinking oil-producing glands. Even people with severe cystic acne may benefit from phototherapy. The latest type of photo therapy, called photodynamic therapy, has been shown to be extremely helpful in combating acne. Initial studies have shown it may be the next best thing to Accutane. It is generally a painless procedure, but your skin may be red or inflamed for a few days following each treatment. If Accutane is not an option for you, discuss phototherapy for your dermatologist.
Corticosteroids: Corticosteroid shots, administered by a dermatologist, are only used for severe cystic acne. A small amount of a powerful steroid is injected into an active cyst, which can dramatically reduce healing times and reduce the chance of scarring. Some dermatologists are very willing to administer these shots, while others are quite hesitant.
- 126 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Coping With Acne
More than 80% of men will have to deal Helpful Hint with at least some acne at some point during If you absolutely must pop a their lives. For many men, this consists of mild or pimple (it’s never a good moderate acne during the adolescent years. For idea) because of its hideous white head, then you have to others, it will be a problem that continues well sterilize the needle you’re into adult life. Although Accutane is a very using. First, wash your hands successful treatment for many individuals, it’s not before touching anything. for everyone (especially not for people who only Store your needle in rubbing alcohol or use the flame suffer from mild acne). Additionally, some people from a lighter to sanitize it. may still deal with some acne symptoms even after several courses of Accutane.
Thankfully, for those people dealing with acne there are a few effective strategies to help you cope on a day-to-day basis.
1) Most importantly, try not to let your acne affect your life. Go out and live life as you normally would. Once you begin to allow your acne to stop you
- 127 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
from doing certain activities or being social, then you’ve essentially “given in”. Although acne can hurt your self-confidence, you shouldn’t let it ruin your life.
2) Remember that your acne always looks worst to you. Sometimes, when you glance in the mirror, your acne may appear horrible. Rest assured, though, that you are your own harshest critic. Most other people, especially those who don’t have any skin problems themselves, will not notice your acne.
3) Don’t pick at your acne. In fact, don’t touch your face at all. Picking can lead to further infection and the spread of bacteria. Unless you want your skin to get worse, leave it alone! Also, avoid anything that can rub on your face or cause irritation. This includes hats, scarves, etc. Also, resist the urge to wash your face more than twice daily. Wash once or twice a day with a gentle facial cleanser.
- 128 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
4) Use makeup. Yes, I’m dead serious. I’m not talking about use eyeliner, foundation, and all those other types of makeup that women use. I’m talking about using a “concealer stick” product to lightly dab some skin- colored cream onto the worst blemishes. If you do this properly, no-one will be able to tell and your worst acne blemishes will look significantly smaller. Try to find a cover-up product that closely matches your skin tone, and make sure it’s oil-free. If you’re embarrassed, just tell the lady at the cosmetics department that you’re buying for your girlfriend and she has a similar skin tone. Be careful not to use too much product, because your face may end up looking worse if you’ve got too much makeup smeared onto different areas. Just dab a tiny bit onto your worst pimples using the tip of your finger. As another option, you can try to find a “tinted” anti-acne product, which is usually benzoyl peroxide with a skin-tone coloring. These don’t usually work as well to cover the blemishes, but they have the added bonus of being an
- 129 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
anti-acne product.
5) Begin treatment as soon as possible, and be consistent. Pick a treatment routine (for example, try using the benzoyl peroxide regimen I outline above) and stick with it for at least a month. Consistency is one of the keys to success for any skin care program.
6) Remember that your acne will improve! If you follow the steps outlined in this chapter and try some of the treatment options, your acne is almost guaranteed to improve. Don’t lose hope, because although acne is an incredibly frustrating condition, there are plenty of treatment options. Thankfully, acne also generally disappears as you age, and most people grow out of it eventually.
Are You Sure Its Acne?
In the treatment section I mentioned that some people have identified their acne as an allergic reaction to certain foods. In addition to allergies, there are a few
- 130 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
other conditions that exhibit similar symptoms that are often mistaken for acne. Before heading out and buying any anti-acne products, make sure the condition you’re dealing with actually is acne. This is especially important for older men. As men age, the chances of having acne decrease but the chances of having a different skin problem, such as rosacea or folliculitis, can actually increase.
Rosacea: Although rosacea is more common in women than men, it can still affect some men. Men will often experience particularly severe cases of rosacea. As mentioned, the symptoms may be similar to acne: redness, prominent spider-like blood vessels, swelling, or pimple-like breakouts. These symptoms may also be accompanied by inflammation. Affected areas usually include the cheeks, nose, chin, forehead, or eyelids. Rosacea normally affects middle-aged men with very fair skin who are prone to blushing. A dermatologist will be able to determine whether or not the condition you’re experiencing is actually rosacea. Treatments are often similar to acne, including isotretinion, oral antibiotics, and topical creams. Unfortunately there is no known long-term cure, but the use of medications can usually control it
- 131 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
to acceptable levels.
Folliculitis: Folliculitis is the inflammation of hair follicles. It’s usually caused by some sort of physical irritation, such as shaving or tight clothing. Symptoms can often look like a case of mild acne, with a number of small pimple-like bumps covering an area of skin. Commonly affected areas include the upper lip, neck, and groin. Treatment normally involves finding and eliminating the cause of the problem (ie. shaving) or possibly oral antibiotics.
Keratosis pilaris: This is a skin condition that normally affects a person’s upper arms. Occasionally, it can also be present on a person’s thighs or face. It is characterized by a number redness and a number of small, rough bumps. The skin may almost feel like rough sandpaper. Keratosis is most common in people with very dry skin or eczema, and symptoms may improve in the summer. For treatment options, see a doctor or dermatologist.
- 132 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Dealing With Scarring & Discoloration
Even after pimples and blemishes disappear, they can often leave scars or discoloration. This is especially true in cases of severe or cystic acne, where scars can last years or even a lifetime. The first step in scar reduction is not to pick at your pimples! Picking can lead to much worse discoloration and scarring. If you pick at a large enough pimple, it may lead to “true” scarring, which will last for the rest of your life. This type of scar is usually “indented” and is most common on the jawline, back, and chest.
In most cases, the discolored spot that remains after a pimple disappears is not actually a true scar. This condition is called “post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation” (try saying that ten times fast), or, more commonly, PIH. These marks will actually disappear on their own, although it can take many months or even years. There are a few ways of speeding up the process:
Topical treatments may include retinoids (the same product used to fight active acne), kojic acid, beta hydroxy acid, and hydroquinone. Hydroquinone used to be the most popular treatment, but it has since decreased in
- 133 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
popularity when some preliminary studies showed it may be carcinogenic (cancer-causing). These studies are inconclusive to date, however, and hydroquinone remains a useful treatment for PIH. Products containing azelaic acid, such as Azelex, which are also an anti-acne treatment, can help as well. Azelaic acid is available by prescription only. You may find there are some products that combine a number of the above mentioned ingredients into one. Talk to your dermatologist about these options.
There are phototherapy treatments available for PIH as well. These involve the use of a non-ablative laser to alter the pigment of the skin. They are usually expensive and may not be suitable for those suffering from active acne. Because this is a procedure that needs to be done by a professional, you should speak to your dermatologist about these sort of options.
Although this isn’t truly a “treatment,” it’s important for people suffering from PIH to stay out of the sun. The dark marks on the skin can become darker and take longer to heal if they’re exposed to large amounts of sunlight. If you work outside or live in a particularly sunny climate, be sure to wear sunscreen with a
- 134 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
high SPF. This applies even to African Americans and people with dark skin, whose hyperpigmentation will still be affected by the sun.
Moles
The term “beauty mark” is often used to describe moles and birthmarks, especially ones on the face. This is a misleading term, because moles are typically not at all attractive. The science of beauty indicates that one of the most important factors in determining whether or not a person is physically attractive is symmetry. Like any other blemish, moles and birthmarks throw off the symmetry of your face. They can detract from your features, or just look downright strange. While a few top models can get away with a mole or birthmark, most men with moles on their face should consider having them removed.
In this section, I am speaking mainly about moles on the face or neck. While moles or on other parts of your body can be unsightly, they are rarely visible to anyone else when you’re wearing clothes. If you have a large mole or mark elsewhere on your body, you could consider using some of the same techniques described below to have it removed.
- 135 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
I am not referring to small moles. I am talking about larger lesions that become the focal point of a person’s face. Usually they will be at least slightly elevated, quite dark in color, and at least 5mm wide. Any moles smaller than this are probably not detracting much from you overall appearance and aren’t worth removing. As an example of a mole worth removing, see the before/after photos of singer Enrique Iglesias shown here on the right.
As a side note, sometimes a doctor or dermatologist will remove a mole because it has the potential to become cancerous. If you have a mole that grows in size or changes color, you should show it to a doctor as soon as possible. This section is referring only to cosmetic mole removal.
Unless it’s being removal for medical reasons, mole removal is usually performed by a cosmetic dermatologist or a cosmetic surgeon. Typically, a local anesthetic will be applied to the area around the mole to ensure it’s a painless
- 136 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
procedure. The mole will then be either excised (cut off) or cauterized (burnt off) and then sealed with stitches or a special solution. A bandage will be applied and the surgeon will give you instructions on how to care for the wound. In some cases, particularly with moles that are not very large or deeply embedded in the skin, a laser can be used to remove the mole. Your doctor or surgeon can decide which method will work best for you.
There are two main downsides to mole removal. The first is that it can be a costly procedure, even for those with excellent health insurance (because it’s usually not covered). Costs may range anywhere from $150 to $500 or more, depending on the size and location of the mole. Additionally, mole removal can often leave a significant scar. In many cases, the scar will fade and be barely noticeable. Sometimes, however, the scar will be just as unsightly as the mole was! This is especially true for smaller, flat moles. Your doctor will usually be able to give you some good insight into whether or not the mole is worth removing.
- 137 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Fake Tanning
Tanning salons are very popular nowadays, especially in cold or northern climates. Their popularity has risen out of the thought that pale or very light skin is unattractive. In some ways, this is true, as light skin tends to reveal imperfections and blemishes.
Fake tanning presents some health concerns, so I recommend using it sparingly. The goal of artificial tanning should be to give your skin a bit of color and improve your complexion, not to have a dark summer tan year-round. As much as being pale is unattractive, so is the “fake-tanned” look. For fair-skinned men, a single short tanning session once every 7-10 days should be enough to give a bit of color and keep you from looking too pale.
Men who are naturally tanned or have good natural complexions can forgo tanning altogether. Similarly, anyone who lives in a warm, sunny climate and is regularly exposed to sun need not bother with artificial tanning salons.
- 138 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Final Thoughts on Skin Care
Even if you don’t suffer from moles, acne, or any other skin condition, this chapter should have given you a good idea how to care for your skin. Having healthy skin is a very important step in improving your appearance, and following the skin care routines I outlined in this chapter will help you achieve radiant, healthy skin.
If you take away only one important thing (well, actually, two things) from this chapter, remember the two fundamental principles that I mentioned at the beginning:
1) Figure out which skin type you have, and use products that are specifically designed to compliment your skin type.
2) Keep it simple. Don’t go overboard with tons of different scrubs and creams, just stick to the basics.
Now that you’re a skin care expert, let’s move on to something equally important: dental care and orthodontics.
- 139 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Chapter Five | Oral Care & Orthodontics
Have you ever seen a model with crooked, yellow teeth? In fact, have you ever seen someone you considered to be genuinely good-looking who sported bad teeth? In 2004, the American Academy of Cosmetic Dentistry did a poll. The results showed 99.7 % of Americans believe a smile is an important social asset; 96% believe an attractive smile makes a person more appealing to members of the opposite sex; and 75% feel an unattractive smile can hurt a person’s chances for career success. That goes to show how important your teeth are. So how can you make sure they’re perfect?
In the chapter on hygiene, I covered how to keep your teeth healthy and clean. This chapter will focus on how to attain a perfect smile by straightening, fixing, and whitening your teeth.
Orthodontics
The last thirty years have seen a massive boom in adult orthodontics and cosmetic dentistry. Braces, for example, were once thought of as something only for
- 140 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
kids or teenagers. Nowadays, more and more adults are turning to cosmetic dentistry and orthodontics to improve their teeth and smile.
Unfortunately, I have to preface this chapter with a warning: all dental work is extremely expensive. The initial costs can be huge, especially for orthodontics such as braces or retainers. Nonetheless, the investments you make in cosmetic dentistry are life-long… or at least until you get really, really old and all your teeth fall out. So understand that although it’s extremely expensive, it’s almost always worth it. In fact I know several adults who took out small bank loans to fund their orthodontics and dental surgery. They seem to all agree that it was a very worthwhile investment. Obviously this is not an option for someone who is very strapped for cash, but if you can afford it, I recommend you at least make an appointment for a consultation with a dentist and/or orthodontist to discuss options and costs.
Orthodontics are the most commonly sought after option for adults. An orthodontist specializes in perfecting your jaw alignment and teeth to ensure a perfect bite and a flawless smile. You’re never too old for orthodontics! Although working on an adult’s jaw and teeth can be more complicated than on an adolescent’s, a good smile can still be achieved. Sometimes, if you suffer from more severe orthodontic problems, you may need to have surgery to move your jaw
- 141 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
bones. For most people, however, this is not necessary and braces will be all you need to straighten your teeth and improve your smile.
If your impression of braces involves a 12-year-old kid with a mouth full of metal, think again. Recent breakthroughs in orthodontics mean there are a variety of options available for teeth straightening. Of course, there are still the traditional fixed braces, which sit on the outside of your upper and lower teeth and are fixed together with small elastic bands. These are effective and one of the cheaper options. They’re also very strong and resilient, which means less return trips to the orthodontist’s office. But metal can look a bit strange on a full-grown adult, so many opt to go a different route. One new style of application features ceramic or “tooth-colored” braces which blend in with your teeth and are far less noticeable, and completely invisible from a distance. The downside to these is that they may become discolored from wine, coffee, or cigarettes.
- 142 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Lingual braces, which sit behind your teeth rather than on the front, are another nearly-invisible option. The downside to lingual braces is typically cost, although they may also interfere with your speech. Most other braces have little or no impact on the way you talk. Helpful Hint Another new option is called Invisalign. Sometimes, if you have a gap This type of braces is actually more like a mouth between two of your teeth, guard or traditional retainer. It consists of a braces won’t be needed. Your dentist may be able to series of fitted “trays” that you wear all the fill the gap by a bonding time (except when eating). They’re invisible procedure. Before you and barely affect your speaking. The cost is invest money in braces, talk usually slightly more than regular braces, but to your dentist about all the available options. they typically do not require you to visit your orthodontist as often as other options. You must be extremely diligent about wearing them, though. If you don’t wear the trays with regularity, gradually progressing through the different sizes, they will not be effective and you’ll have wasted your time and money.
After you finish treatment with braces, and your teeth are perfect, you’ll most likely need to wear a retainer for a period of time to ensure that your teeth don’t slip
- 143 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
back to their former position. At first, you’ll probably need to wear the retainer all the time. Eventually you will only need to wear the retainer at night, and after a few years you’ll be able to stop wearing it altogether. Compared to braces, wearing a retainer or night guard is not a big deal and quickly becomes habit.
Regardless of which type of braces you choose, you will need to pay even greater attention to your oral hygiene when you have any kind of orthodontics in your mouth. The chances of tooth decay, plaque buildup, and gum disease are much higher, so you’ll want to pay special attention to your daily oral care routine. I strongly recommend you invest in a Waterpik, described in the section on oral health care.
Other Cosmetic Dental Procedures
In addition to braces and orthodontics, there are several other types of cosmetic dentistry that can be of great benefit to your appearance. Most of these can be performed by your own dentist, although once again, they are quite pricey so be sure to discuss all of your options with your dentist and get a second opinion if
- 144 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
necessary.
Veneers: Veneers are porcelain or composite shells that fit onto the outside of a tooth. They can be used to hide a chip, a slightly crooked tooth, or even fill a gap between two teeth.
Implants: Implants are usually used to secure a fake tooth, crown, denture, or bridge in place. They are a piece of titanium that is surgically fitted under the gum into the jawbone, where the root of the tooth would normally be located.
Crowns: Like a veneer, a crown is fitted onto the outside of a tooth to hide damage, decay, or chips/cracks. They are made out of strong porcelain material to withstand the regular wear and tear involved with chewing, brushing, etc.
Bonding: Bonding is a different method of repairing a stained, chipped or broken tooth by affixing a section of tooth-colored enamel.
- 145 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Enamel shaping: The opposite of a crown or veneer, enamel shaping is when a dentist files away or removes part of the tooth enamel to reshape the tooth for cosmetic purposes. It is usually not at all painful.
Again, if you think any of these options may be of benefit to you, I urge you to discuss it with your dentist. Despite the cost, paying attention to your teeth can go a long way to improving your smile and thus your overall physical appearance.
Whitening Your Teeth
Not only is it important to have straight teeth, having a gleaming white smile is also very attractive. There are a few options that can be employed to achieve this, depending on how much money you’re willing to spend. You may wish to speak to your dentist before using any tooth whitening method because almost all methods can be hard on your gums.
- 146 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
In-Office Dental Whitening: If you can afford it, this is the best method of tooth whitening. Your dentist will use a peroxide chemical to safely whiten your teeth in about an hour. A laser may be used to further increase the whitening effect. Unlike other treatments, a single whitening session can keep your teeth looking great for months or even years. Although it’s expensive (expect to fork over at least a few hundred dollars), this is a sure-fire bet to whiter teeth without any fuss or risk of adverse effects. The only potential side effect is some slight sensitivity in your teeth and gums for 24 hours after the procedure.
Whitening Strips: Sold in the oral health section of every pharmacy and supermarket, whitening strips are the latest craze. Whitening strips are placed on your teeth for somewhere between 5 and 45 minutes per day for up to two weeks. The strips are coated with a peroxide gel that whitens the enamel of your teeth. Popular brands include Crest White Strips and Listerine Quick Dissolving Strips. Similar to an in-office
- 147 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
whitening procedure, the only side effects are mild tooth and gum sensitivity. The average price is between $25 and $40. These products do work fairly well, so if you’re looking for a low-budget alternative to in-office whitening, this would be a good choice.
Whitening Trays: Similar to whitening strips in concept, trays are filled with a peroxide gel and fit over your upper and lower teeth. I have found these trays to be much messier and less comfortable than the strips, although they are equally effective and cost about the same (about $35). Again, you need to wear the trays for 30 to 45 minutes for one week. The most common brand is Aquafresh White Trays.
Paint-On Whitening Systems: It’s as simple as it sounds: you use a small brush or applicator to “paint” some peroxide solution onto your teeth. This is just as effective as the whitening strips or trays, and there is less likelihood that your gums will become irritated or sensitive. Most paint-on whitening products require that you use them once per day for 7-10 days. Some must be rinsed off after 30 minutes, others can be left on overnight. Unfortunately, some of the best paint-on systems are fairly expensive. One of the most
- 148 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
popular products, GoSmile, retails for about $95.
Toothpastes, Mouthwashes, and Chewing Gums: Simply put, these are all ineffective. Toothbrushes and mouthwashes may remove surface stains, but they won’t actually make the enamel of your teeth any whiter, so next time you’re shopping for a toothpaste, don’t bother with the gimmicky “whitening” ones.
In summary, in-office dental whitening is the most effective procedure, but it can cost up to $700! If you can afford it, that’s the way to go. Otherwise, try a paint- on solution (for anywhere between $40 and $100) or some whitening strips or trays. Either way, if you have yellow or stained teeth, I strongly recommend you invest a bit of time and money into whitening them. You’ll be pleasantly surprised at what a different they can make.
- 149 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Chapter Six | Weight Loss & Muscle Building
In the introduction to this book, I promised to use as little science as possible and skip straight to the useful information. In this case, however, I think a little background is needed.
Thousands of years ago, our ancestors struggled every day to survive. One of the reasons they banded together to form tribes and villages was for mutual protection. By surrounding themselves with other healthy, strong individuals, they increased their own chance of survival. Their friends and family could help them hunt, fend off predators, build shelter, and survive the elements. In this case, the most useful friends would be the strongest and healthiest. Would you rather team up with a crippled old man, or a muscular, healthy young man? The answer seems obvious.
Even though tens of thousands of years have passed since the days of the cave man and the need for tribes and villages, humans are still subconsciously wired to surround themselves with fit and healthy friends. The same concept applies when choosing a mate: to ensure the protection of her offspring, a woman would try to find the healthiest, strongest man to father her children. This is precisely why
- 150 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
women find muscular, athletic men attractive. This is also the reason we find obesity or frailty to be an unattractive trait in our friends. Even though we may not have any conscious bias against people who are overweight or unfit, we’re genetically programmed to surround ourselves with healthy and athletic people. Subconsciously, we know that obesity is associated with unhealthiness, and so we generally find it unattractive.
So now that you understand why obesity is considered undesirable, what can you do about it? How can you go from overweight (or underweight!) to buff, ripped, and athletic? The goal of this chapter is to outline some basic fitness principles. If you follow the plan I outline in this chapter, you will be well on your way to achieving an impressive and athletic build. Unfortunately, I can’t go into a huge amount of depth on fitness and nutrition, because entire books could (and have) been written on the subject. At the end of the chapter, I’ll show you exactly where to go to find even more quality information on the topic.
10 Simple Steps to Losing Weight
- 151 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
1) Forget about fast-track diets, gimmicks, supplements, and magic pills. While weight loss programs like the “South Beach” diet or the famous “Atkins” diet may work temporarily, but you don’t want to lose weight for a few weeks and then gain it all back when you finish the diet! Weight loss is a lifestyle change, not a one-time quick-fix. And since your body weight plays such a hugely important role in determining your overall physical attractiveness, it’s a lifestyle change work making!
Let me give you a second piece of advice that I’ve learned through both first-hand experience and a ton of research: 99% of all supplements and diet pills are gimmicks. They don’t work. Period. There are a select few supplements that may aid your weight loss effort, but for the most part, you’ll just be wasting your money. If you’re really interested in using the few supplements that do work, I suggest you check out the websites and
- 152 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
information I provide at the end of the chapter. Otherwise, focus on improving your diet and getting some quality high-intensity exercise every week and you’ll see excellent results.
2) Eat 5 or 6 smaller meals every day. This simple principle can be extremely effective. The goal is to keep your metabolism working hard at all times, while actually decreasing the total number of calories you’re consuming. The key here is to eat lots of small meals every few hours so that you never feel hungry, but you’re never over-indulging. A small meal might consist of a chicken breast, an apple, and a bit of yogurt. Later in this chapter I’ll list some of the best “fat burning foods” to give you some healthy weight-loss meal ideas.
3) Eat a healthy breakfast every day. Do not skip breakfast! The first meal of the day kick-starts your metabolism and sets the tone for the rest of the day. I know you’ve probably heard this before, but it’s true – so don’t skip out on breakfast. As an example, a healthy fat-burning breakfast might include 4 scrambled egg whites, a small bowl of oatmeal, and a banana.
- 153 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
4) Eat lean protein at every meal. There are several reasons why protein is important. For starters, protein helps to build and maintain muscle mass, which is actually a critical part of fat loss. Secondly, protein has a “thermic” effect and you can burn fat simply by eating protein. And perhaps most importantly, protein helps suppress your appetite and keep you feeling full. For all of these reasons, it’s important to have a good protein source at every meal. Good sources of protein include lean meat, seafood, egg whites, low-fat dairy, and small amounts of natural peanut butter.
5) Stick to natural, unrefined carbs. Your body essentially breaks all carbohydrates down into sugar, which provides fuel for your body. Not all carbs are created equal, however, as some will be quickly absorbed and others slowly. Carbs that are quickly absorbed will spike your blood sugar levels, which will eventually result in a “sugar crash” where you feel tired and lethargic. This also inhibits your ability to burn fat, and can make you feel hungry. To avoid this up-and-down blood sugar cycle, try to eat only natural, complex carbohydrates which are absorbed more slowly. This may
- 154 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
include whole grain bread, whole wheat pasta, brown rice, potatoes, oatmeal, and fresh fruits and vegetables of all kinds. Try to stay away from sugary juices of any kind, as the calories can add up extremely quickly.
6) Increase vegetable intake. As mentioned, vegetables are an outstanding source of carbohydrates. They are extremely low in calories, but high in bulk so they fill you up. The very act of digesting vegetables can burn calories. Adding some sort of fresh vegetable or salad to every meal can be hugely helpful.
7) Avoid saturated fats. OK, this might seem pretty obvious, but you’d be surprised how many people don’t cut saturated fats out of their diet when they’re trying to lose weight. A single gram of fat contains nine calories – that’s more than twice the caloric content of protein or carbohydrates. Saturated fats can be found in many sources, but examples include cheese, whole milk products, butter, mayonnaise, and fatty cuts of meat (bacon,
- 155 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
sausage), potato chips, french fries, ice cream, commercial peanut butter, luncheon meats, donuts, and pretty much every type of junk food.
8) Drink lots of water. Water is hugely important to losing weight. It helps to boost your metabolism by allowing your metabolic processes to work more quickly and efficiently. Additionally, your body can sometimes mistake thirst for hunger, meaning you feel hungry when you body is actually craving water. Water fills up your stomach and suppresses your appetite for food. Try to drink at least 2 to 3 liters a day (that equates to four to six 500ml water bottles), or about one gallon.
9) Intense exercise 3-4x per week. If you’re serious about looking good, you simply cannot underestimate the benefit of
- 156 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
cardiovascular exercise. To burn fat, you want to exercise at a high level of intensity. This means exercising at about 80% of your maximum heart rate for 20 to 30 minutes, at least three times per week. Spending hours and hours laboring on a treadmill is not necessary – just half an hour of jogging, cycling, swimming, or engaging in any kind of intense activity is sufficient. If you’re really out of shape, start at a lower level of intensity (ie. walk for one minute, jog for one minute, and repeat for 25 minutes) and work your way up to a higher intensity workout. This type of intense cardiovascular exercise will boost your metabolism and really kick-start the fat loss.
10) Lift weights. Building and maintaining lean body mass will increase your metabolism, thus helping you burn more fat. Of course, having a muscular physique is also desirable, and I’ll expand on more muscle building strategies in the next section.
- 157 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Nutrition Guidelines
One of the key themes I outlined in the above ten steps is nutrition. Proper nutrition is hugely important to achieving and maintaining a desirable bodyweight. To help you make healthy eating choices, I’ve built a chart of good fat-burning foods. For each meal, combine one item of protein from column A with one carbohydrate from column B. For one or two meals each day, you can also include a source of unsaturated fat from column C. Each of your six meals should include a maximum of one item from each category.
As an example, one meal might include a chicken breast (column A), a salad (column B), and a handful of peanuts (column C).
- 158 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
A: Proteins B: Carbohydrates C: Fats
• Lean chicken breast • Sweet potatoes • Natural peanut • Lean turkey breast • Yams butter • Extra-lean ground • Potatoes • Nuts turkey • All-natural oatmeal • Peanuts • Extra-lean ground • Brown rice • Avocado beef • Whole wheat pasta • Olives • Fish, all types • Whole wheat bread • Canned tuna in water • Whole grain cereals • Top round steak • Vegetables • Skim milk (particularly green • Fat-free yogurt vegetables) • Fat-free cottage • Fresh fruit cheese • Egg whites
Remember to keep your portion sizes fairly small (one small chicken breast, ½ cup of rice, for example) but eat more often! I promise you won’t be hungry as long as you’re grazing regularly (5-7 meals a day).
- 159 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
OK, so now that you know what you can eat, what’s on the “avoid-at-all-costs” list? Here are some foods that you simple must avoid if you’re serious about weight loss:
Ice cream Helpful Hint Cheese If you’re working to cut fat Whole milk out of your diet, look for low- fat version of certain Potato chips products. For example, you Greasy fast food (McDonald’s, etc). can find fat-free cheese, French fries of any kind yogurt, and soda as well as low-fat potato chips, ice Chocolate, candy, or sugary snacks cream (gelato!), etc. Replace Soda (except diet sodas) fatty products with these Donuts, muffins, and pastries healthier alternatives. Sugary fruit drinks Bacon, sausages, fatty meats White bread or white bread products
Avoiding these foods and following the simple steps outlined above will improve your nutrition and set you well on your way towards maintaining a healthy
- 160 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
body weight. If you remember only one thing from this section, keep in mind that weight loss is a lifestyle and not a one-time event. There’s no quick fix to obesity, but if you’re willing to stay dedicated with your eating and exercise habits, you will make progress. A friend of mine made a few changes to the way he ate, followed the simple principles outlined above, and he went from 310lbs to 170bs in only 12 months. Now that’s some serious weight loss!
More Information
If you’re overweight and looking to improve your appearance, there’s no question that burning fat should be a priority. This chapter should set you off in the right direction, but I also recommend you purchase a comprehensive fat loss guide. In this book, I have promoted very few specific products, because I don’t want to come across as a sleazy salesman, and I don’t want you to waste money on bogus products. That said, weight loss is a big commitment and a lot of work, and a comprehensive fat burning program will be a huge help in your quest to lose weight. This is especially important because there’s a lot of bad information out there! If only I had a dollar for every magic fat loss pill I’ve seen advertised…
- 161 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Cut through the lies and advertising hype and pick up a good weight loss guide. Of all the programs I’ve read, the best is the Real Deal Body Transformation System. Author Sean Nalewanyj has obviously done a ton of meticulous research and his information is very reliable. For more information, you can visit http://www.howtobehandsome.com/loseweight
10 Simple Steps to Building Muscle
Just as there’s nothing attractive about being overweight, there’s nothing sexy about being skinny as a rail, either. A muscular, athletic build is extremely desirable, as you can probably guess by taking a quick glance at the latest Men’s Health magazine. Packing on some muscle mass will make you look and feel strong and add to your confidence levels. Best of all, you’d be surprised how little time you actually need to spend in the gym to achieve a great physique. Here are ten basic principles that you should
- 162 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
always apply when you’re looking to build muscle:
1) Weight train 3 times per week. Yes, the single most effective workout routine requires you to train only three times each week. Lifting weights too often can lead to overtraining. Overtraining can actually have a negative effect on your muscle building progress. Later in this chapter I’ll outline a great weight training routine that only requires you to train three days each week.
2) Keep your workouts short. Not only do you only have to work out three times a week, your workouts should be no longer than one hour (maybe 90 minutes including warmup, cool down, and a bit of stretching). Working out too long will encourage the secretion of a chemical called cortisol, which actually eats away at your muscles for energy! Trust me, if you’re training with proper intensity, one hour workouts are plenty long enough.
3) Work each body part once per week. Split your weight training into three separate workouts, each one covering different body parts. The following
- 163 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
is a proper weight training “split” that ensures no overlap between workouts:
a. Monday: Legs/Abs b. Wednesday: Chest/Triceps/Shoulders c. Friday: Back/Biceps/Forearms
By ensuring there’s no overlap between body parts, you give each muscle group time to recover. Muscles need at least 5-7 days to fully heal from each workout. This also ensures your workouts stay short.
4) Perform 5-10 repetitions per set. This rep range seems to be the most effective for the majority of men. Each set should contain between five and ten controlled repetitions. Your last rep should be the point where you reach failure, where you are physically unable to perform another. Later in this section, I will provide a sample workout routine.
- 164 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
5) Focus on compound movements and free weights. Compound movements are exercises that involve more than one joint. The two most relevant examples are the squat and the deadlift. These type of exercises not only work multiple muscle groups simultaneously, but they also stimulate the release of growth hormone in your body. Simply put, there’s no replacement for heavy compound lifts such as squats or deadlifts. For your other exercises, try to use free weights (barbells and dumbbells) wherever possible. While cable- based machines may have their place in some workouts, free weights will stimulate the most muscle growth.
6) Train with 100% intensity. This is probably the most important weightlifting principle: you must train at a high intensity level if you expect to see good results. Have you ever noticed those guys in the gym who wear
- 165 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
spandex and seem to do countless repetitions using tiny little dumbbells? They’re not building any muscle because they’re not working hard enough! Your workouts should be short, but they must be intense. In order to stimulate your body into muscle growth, you first need to put it under severe physical stress. Every single set should be performed to absolute failure, as I mentioned earlier, which means your last rep should be an intense struggle.
7) Focus on progression. Every week, you should be getting stronger and the weights you’re lifting should be getting heavier. If you don’t progress to heavier weights, your body will quickly become adjusted and stop building muscle. Progression may mean adding 5lbs to an exercise or it may mean that you’re adding an extra rep to a set. Granted, you may not always be able to progress in every exercise, but the general trend should be upwards.
8) Keep a training journal. It’s sometimes hard to remember how many reps you performed at what weight during the previous week’s workout. To help you keep track and to help maintain a steady level of progression, you
- 166 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
should keep a training journal. All you need is a little pad of paper where you record your exercises, weights, and reps for each workout.
9) Consume enough calories and protein. Simply put, building muscle is as much about nutrition as it is about weightlifting. Without a proper diet, you’ll never achieve serious muscle gains. Many of the nutrition principles required to build muscle are similar to those I outlined in the previous section for weight loss: eat numerous, smaller meals each day, consume lots of protein at every meal, and generally eat healthy. The only thing that changes is the amount of food you should be eating. Instead of focusing on eating multiple small meals, you’ll want to eat multiple large meals. Try to eat every 3-4 hours; if you don’t eat for a long period of time your body will become catabolic, meaning it will begin to eat away at your muscles for energy.
- 167 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
10) Don’t fall for bogus supplements. There are some supplements that can be useful for muscle building, but most are complete garbage. At the end of the day, you’re far better off focusing on proper nutrition and heavy, intense weightlifting than you are spending your time worrying about supplements. If you’re really interested in using supplements to aide your muscle building mission, a post-workout whey protein shake is a great place to start. To add strength and muscular endurance, add a creatine supplement into your daily routine.
Sample Weightlifting Routines
Below is a sample muscle building routine that has been proven again and again to be extremely effective. It is based upon the principles I outlined above. Each exercise should be performed at 100% intensity. You may want to print out this guide and take it with you to the gym:
Monday: Legs/Abs
- 168 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
• Squats: 1 set x 8-10 repetitions • Leg Press: 2 x 8-10 reps • Stiff-legged Deadlifts: 2 x 8-10 reps • Standing Calf Raises: 2 x 8-12 reps • Seated Calf Raises: 1 x 8-12 reps • Cable Crunches: 2 x 6-10 reps • Weighted Situps: 1 x 6-10 reps
Wednesday: Chest/Shoulders/Triceps • Incline Dumbbell Press: 2 x 5-8 reps • Dips: 2 x 5-8 reps • Flat Dumbbell Press: 1 x 5-8 reps • Military Press: 2 x 5-8 reps • Lateral Raises: 1 x 5-8 reps • Pushdowns: 2 x 5-8 reps • Skull Crushers: 1 x 5-8 reps
Friday: Back/Biceps/Forearms
- 169 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
• Deadlifts: 1 x 8-10 reps • Chins: 2 x 5-8 reps • Barbell Rows: 2 x 5-8 reps • Barbell Shrugs: 2 x 8-10 reps • Barbell Curls: 2 x 5-8 reps • Dumbbell Curls: 1 x 5-8 reps • Barbell Wrist Curls: 1 x 6-10 reps • Static Holds: x 1
More Information
Sadly, there’s even more misinformation out there on muscle building than there is on weight loss. Because supplements are a multi-billion dollar industry, and most of the popular bodybuilding magazines are owned by supplement manufacturers, good information can be hard to find. Trust me, Google is not a good way to learn about proper muscle building techniques!
There’s also a good chance you’ll end up hurting yourself unless you’re very familiar with proper form and technique for each exercise. This is particularly true of
- 170 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
heavy compound lifts such as the squat or deadlift. If you’re inexperienced in this type of weight training, I suggest you either:
1) Hire a personal trainer. Although not all personal trainers are knowledgeable in proper body building techniques, they should know how to perform all of the major lifts. The downside to this option is that it’s extremely expensive: just a few sessions with a personal trainer could break your wallet.
2) Purchase a copy of the Muscle Gain Truth No-Fail System, a step-by-step guide to proper muscle building techniques. This system costs the same as one or two sessions with a person trainer, but it includes loads of how-to videos as well as a comprehensive guide to supplements, nutrition, injury prevention, and many other techniques. Because it cuts through all the lies and misinformation, I found this program to be extremely valuable. Check it out at http://www.howtobehandsome.com/buildmuscle
- 171 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Chapter Seven | Hairstyle
The importance of a good hairstyle should not be overlooked. Your haircut can make or break your overall appearance – an otherwise attractive man could ruin his look with a bad hairstyle. Similarly, an average looking guy with an outstanding hairdo can really stand out. But deciding on a haircut can be very difficult, and may require quite a few tries before you get it right. In this chapter, I’ll describe some of the most important fundamentals to keep in mind when choosing a hairstyle. I’ll then cover some of the most popular current men’s hairstyle trends.
Hairstyle Basics
Before I start analyzing different hairstyles, I first need to outline a few basic hairstyle guidelines.
1) Choosing a good stylist is crucial. A good hairstylist not only gives you a great haircut every time, but they should also be able to give you guidance and
- 172 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
advice on hair-related issues. If you’re not satisfied with your haircut each and every time you leave the salon, it’s time find a new stylist. Sometimes it’ll take a few bad cuts before you find a good hairstylist.
The worst way to find a stylist is by walking into an overpriced salon in a shopping mall. These types of salons are not Helpful Hint only very pricey, but they’re also usually Make sure you tip your staffed by junior stylists with very little hairstylist generously if you think they’ve done a good experience. Instead, find someone who job. They’ll remember your always has a great haircut (a friend, tip and continue to give you coworker, etc), and ask for a referral to their excellent service. A few dollars can go a long way! stylist. If a stylist is booked up weeks in advance, that’s usually a good sign.
Unfortunately, the age-old adage, “you get what you pay for” usually rings true when it comes to haircuts. A barber who charges $10 for a cut probably isn’t going to be too concerned with your level of satisfaction. At the same time, there’s also an aspect of “diminishing returns” – the difference between a $30 cut and a $70 haircut is probably pretty negligible. Depending on where you live, a good haircut should cost between $20 and $40. I’ve been to stylists
- 173 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
that work from their homes who only charge $15 and do a great job. Normally, though, a talented salon-based stylist will charge at least $20 for a decent cut. Be sure to tip generously if you want to continue getting great haircuts – 15% to 20% is fair.
Although this is only based on my own experience, I usually prefer female hairstylists. I find women often have a better grasp of hairstyle trends. Granted, there are many talented male hairstylists out there, but on the whole I find female stylists usually do a better job.
Male or female, you should always chat with your stylist about your expectations as soon as you sit down in the chair. Be sure to be specific about what you’re looking for. Ask for their opinion or their advice, but don’t be afraid to say “no, I don’t want that.” Also, pay attention to how they cut your hair, and take a good look in the mirror before you stand up and fork over your money. There’s no shame in asking them to shorten one area or change some part of the cut.
When I have a specific style in mind, I often find a picture ahead of time and bring it in to show the stylist. Usually they’ll be more than happy to try and duplicate the cut. This is an excellent way to make sure they know exactly
- 174 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
what you’re looking for.
2) Choose a hairstyle that compliments your look and your personality. If your typical attire consists of board shorts, a beater, and flip flops, you’ll probably want a haircut that matches this image. Similarly, a middle-aged business executive who wears a suit every day wouldn’t want a long, shaggy “surfer” hairstyle. Both of those hairstyles can look great, but only on certain men. Your lifestyle, profession, age, and your overall persona play a big role in determining which hairstyle you should choose.
To find out what hairstyle compliments your look, think about what “image” you’re trying to convey. (This is a concept we’ll return to in the next chapter on fashion). A younger man who works in construction might want to go for a short crew cut to look a bit “edgier”, while an aspiring lawyer trying to impress potential employers will want to go for a mature, subtle look. What about facial hair – would a man sporting a goatee really want to have a long, effeminate hairstyle? Probably not.
For help on choosing a haircut that suits your image, try asking your hairstylist. They should be able to give you a decent objective opinion on what
- 175 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
styles will suit your look. Also, try searching the internet for pictures of your favorite male celebrities. Take a look at which haircuts Brad Pitt chooses, for example, and why. Do they compliment his face and his overall image? Why?
Try to remember that your hairstyle says a lot about your personality:
A longer, layered cut says, “I’m creative, trendy, and style-savvy.” A longer, disheveled or curly cut says, “I’m calm, laid back, and carefree.” A medium-length, textured, and messy cut says, “I’m edgy and a bit rebellious, but I also care about style and fashion trends.” Short, styled hair or a faux hawk says, “I’m very trendy, but I know how to have fun.” A buzz cut says, “I’m confident and in-control.”
3) Almost all hairstyles require the use of a styling product. Just because you have very short hair or long, free-flowing locks doesn’t mean you can avoid using a styling product. There’s a wide variety of products available. Some are designed to just provide a bit of texture or hold, while others are designed to
- 176 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
hold your foot-long mohawk in place. Unless you have a true buzz cut, you’ll probably want to use some sort of product.
Again, this is where your hairstylist can be a huge help. When they’re finished cutting, ask them to suggest a product for your hair. Current hairstyle trends have moved away from the “gelled” look and towards a textured, matte look. Most of the best products have a matte finish (not shiny) while providing medium hold for maximum styling effect. Gone are the days of grease, pomade, and strong-hold gels. Nowadays, wax and paste can provide enough hold while maintaining a natural look. Most hairstyles require that you apply product to dry hair. Your hair should always be blow-dried to provide good body and texture.
4) Make it look like you care. Even if you choose a very low-maintenance hairstyle, you should always give off the impression that you care about the way you look. As I mentioned before, your hairstyle says a lot about you, and an un-styled hairdo reflects poorly on your image. Even if you just take 30 seconds to rub some styling paste into your hair to add a bit of messy texture, make it look like you took the time and effort. This gives people the
- 177 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
impression that you care about your appearance and that you’re not lazy or “style challenged”.
Face Shape & Style Choice
Every man’s face has a particular “shape”. Each shape lends itself to particular haircuts. Here’s a simple way to figure out the shape of your own face: take a long, hot shower. When you get out, look at yourself in the steamy mirror. Through the steam, you should be able to see the outline of your face. Trace the shape of your face on the mirror. You should end up with a shape that appears oval, square, oblong, or heart-shaped. Your face will probably not fit perfectly into any of these categories, but this outline should give you a general idea of the shape of your face. Keep this shape in mind when you choose a hairstyle.
- 178 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Oval-Shaped Face
The oval-shaped face is often considered to be the ideal facial type. If your face is oval, then you’re very lucky and you can pull off almost any hairstyle with excellent results. Be careful of long bangs or styles that hang down over your face, hiding its ideal shape.
Jude Law is an excellent example of a straight facial shape, and he’d probably look good with almost any haircut.
- 179 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Square-Shaped Face
Men with square faces will have a strong, angular jawline and a broad forehead. If you have a square facial shape, your goal should be to soften the straight lines and add a bit of roundness. Short and medium length cuts that are rounded or have some texture and body will help to round out your face. Curly or wavy hair can also work well. Avoid hairstyles that accentuate your jaw or the straight lines of your face, such as a flat top or long hair with straight bangs.
Charlie Sheen has a classic square-shaped face.
- 180 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Oblong-Shaped Face
If you’ve got an oblong-shaped face, you’ll want to make it appear shorter and wider. Any hairstyle that covers a bit of your forehead will shorten your face, and careful use of sideburns can help to widen it a bit. Curves and wavy hair often work well with oblong shaped faces. Avoid long, straight hairstyles as well as very short, spiky styles as they’ll further elongate your face.
Russell Crowe hides his oblong facial shape with the use of long, wavy hair and a short beard.
- 181 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Heart-Shaped Face
The heart shaped face (also known as ‘triangular’) is characterized by a narrow, pointed chin and wider cheekbones. Men with this type of face will find that most hairstyles work well, although tall hairstyles or straight-cut bangs may add too much emphasis on the already-wide top half of the face.
Justin Timberlake has a very heart-shaped face and always keeps his hair short.
- 182 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Popular and Trendy Hairstyles
Thankfully, hairstyle trends tend to move at a slower pace than fashion fads. Some hairstyles are always “in,” while others tend to flow in three to five year cycles. A few years ago, short and spiky hair was all the rage in the men’s hairstyle world. Nowadays, the trend has moved more towards textured and matted hair. Five years down the road, we can expect to see another change as men’s hairstyles gravitate in a different direction. The hairstyles mentioned in this section are all currently “trendy” and “in style,” and hopefully they can give you some ideas for your next cut. When browsing through this section, remember to keep your facial shape in mind.
- 183 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Long & Straight (Or Wavy)
Once considered a hairstyle reserved for hippies, long hair is now commonplace amongst men. Although sometimes considered an effeminate hairstyle, long straight hair can actually be quite masculine if it’s accompanied by a five-o’clock shadow or very short beard. Typically, long and straight hairstyles should be shoulder length (or slightly shorter).
This look is extremely trendy, but it’s not very professional. Those with more traditional tastes (particularly older generations) may find it to be too unkempt, so avoid this cut if you’ll need to appear mature or clean-cut.
One advantage of long is that it requires very little maintenance, and you’ll only have to cut your hair every 6-8 weeks. For most men, long straight hair works best with lighter highlights (but only a few shades lighter – avoid the bleached- blonde look). This type of hairstyle does not work particularly well for men with graying hair. Long straight hair requires a quick brushing while wet and then a small bit of texture wax, paste or hairspray once dry. Don’t overdo it on the products, though, as this is supposed to be a free-flowing hairstyle.
- 184 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
- 185 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Longer & Shaggy
The layered, shaggy “surfer” look has been in style for some time now, probably in part because it looks good on every face shape and almost every guy. The shaggy look can work with or without facial hair. Shaggy haircuts can be medium-length (just covering the ears) or longer (almost shoulder length) depending on your own personal preferences.
Like all longer hairstyles, it’s not great for professionals or older men. The shag haircut can include color, but it doesn’t have to. Unfortunately, this style simply won’t work with gray hair.
To achieve this look, you’ll need to visit your stylist for a trim every 4-6 weeks. To style, apply a paste or wax to almost-dry hair and use your fingers to give the hair some body and texture. Depending on how much hair you have, you may need to use a decent amount of product to maintain the shaggy, disheveled look.
- 186 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
- 187 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Medium Tousled Hair
Although medium length hair can take on a number of different styles, most trendy medium-length men’s cuts are all about texture. The goal is to create a slightly disheveled look without going as far as the “shaggy” hairstyles described above. This type of haircut works for most face shapes and looks great with or without facial hair.
Depending on how messy and textured you style this type of haircut, it is usually suitable for all professions, ages, and hair colors. It’s classy, mature, and yet still stylish and fashionable. Of all the hairstyles that are currently in style, a textured and slightly disheveled medium cut is probably the most flexible. This type of cut looks excellent with a few blended highlights.
One downside to medium-length haircuts is that they tend to be quite high maintenance and extremely fussy. Unlikely long cuts, which just need a quick brushing and a bit of paste, or short cuts, which don’t require any combing, medium-
- 188 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
length hairstyles can easily fall out of place. Try applying a bit of wax or paste into slightly-damp hair, and the blow drying your hair forward from the crown, pulling your hair forward as you dry. Then use a touch more product to add texture and hold. Your hairstylist can help you pick out products for your specific medium-length haircut. You’ll probably need to visit your stylist monthly to keep this cut looking good.
- 189 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
The Faux Hawk
Popularized a few years ago by celebrities like David Beckham, the faux hawk doesn’t seem to be losing any of its popularity. When styled properly, a faux hawk can look great. When poorly executed, it can look very “try-hard” and really ruin your image. They key to a great-looking faux hawk is to make it look natural and a bit messy. Using too much gel or product to create a perfectly sculpted line down the middle of your head is not what you’re aiming to do! You should spend just 30 seconds styling the faux hawk, and the end result should have a matte finish, not a shiny “stuck in place” look.
It’s a very trendy look, so it’s best suited for younger men. Professionals and more mature men may want to try a toned-down version of the faux hawk by just quickly pulling the hair at the top of your head together in a quick motion. A bit of color or highlights can be a nice addition, but are not necessary.
The faux hawk requires some serious upkeep, and depending on how long your hair is, a visit to the stylist may be required every 3-4 weeks. Use a gel, paste or wax with a matte finish but a fair bit of hold.
- 190 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
- 191 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Short & Clean
Short, well-manicured haircuts never go out of style. A short cut can take years off your age and make you appear strong and masculine. They portray a very clean image and can look great on men of all ages. Older men with graying hair are often best suited to a relatively short haircut. This is also a cut that works well for men with curly hair (the traditional “Caesar cut” never gets old). It’s a very versatile cut, because even if you make short hair messy or spiky it still looks reasonably professional.
Short haircuts are usually one of the easiest to style properly because the hair is extremely compliant. You can use almost any type of hair product with decent hold and get good results. This is one of the only hairstyles that lends itself to traditional hair gel, but be careful to avoid the crusty, shiny look. Be sure to let you hair dry fully before applying and style product, as this will help keep it looking more natural once styled. Although short hair dries very quickly, you may want to blow dry for more body and texture.
- 192 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
One of the only downsides to short haircuts is that you’ll probably need to visit your hairstylist more often (a cut every three weeks may be necessary for men with very short hair).
- 193 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Very Short & Buzz Cut
Extremely short hair never really goes out of style. It’s a consistently reliable hairstyle – if you have the facial shape and overall persona to make it work. Better yet, very short haircuts require very little in the way of styling and maintenance. Buzz cuts look great with facial hair (it gives off a very confident, masculine aura). They’re a good fit for men of almost any age and profession, although professionals may want to leave a few centimeters of growth.
To execute the “very-short-but-not-buzzcut” look is best achieved by combing your hair forward with a tiny bit of product and a 30-second blow dry. The only downside to this approach is that you’ll probably need a haircut ever 2-3 weeks to maintain the style. But then again, a true buzz cut will need to be re-done every few days, anyway.
- 194 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
- 195 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Hairstyle Taboos
Now that you’re aware of all the current hairstyle trends, you’re probably wondering which hairstyles aren’t popular.
Spiky hair. Once the coolest trend in men’s hairstyles, spiky hair is out. Come to think of it, any hairstyle that uses lots of thick, greasy gel is no longer in style. Today’s hairstyle trends are all about texture with a matte finish. If you can stab someone’s eye out with your hair, then you’re living in the 90’s. Ponytails. Stay away from any hair longer than shoulder-length, it’s simply not cool anymore. Long and curly. Short and curly is cool (think caesar cut) but long and curly is just too feminine. Greased back. As I mentioned, any “wet look” hairstyles should be avoided. If you use pomade or any other kind of shiny-finish hair product, ditch it as soon as possible. Replace with a wax, paste, or anything else that leaves the hair looking natural.
- 196 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Comb overs. Unless you want to look like Donald Trump (you don’t), avoid a comb over at all costs. In the next section, I’ll address hairstyle options for balding men.
Other Hair-Related Subjects
The section above should have given you a few ideas about hairstyle options and current trends. But what if you’re balding? Curly hair? Color? These are all good questions.
Naturally Curly Hair
If you’ve got naturally curly hair, you can still have a trendy, stylish haircut. The trick is in finding what works best for you. A good hairstylist is even more important for a man with curly hair, as it can be much more difficult to cut. The weight needs to be taken from the right places to match your facial shape and
- 197 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
features. I recommend keeping your hair relatively short – long curly hair is often seen as feminine. Speak to your hairstylist or find a picture of a celebrity with a great curly cut and bring it in to show them.
Hairstyles for Balding Men
Balding is a problem that affects almost all men by the time they reach retirement age. Balding generally begins with a receding hairline at the front of the head as well as thinning on the top.
The worst option for balding men is the comb over. A slight breeze will send your coiffure in all directions, resulting in a horrible tangled mess perched atop your bald head. Combing your hair straight back in an attempt to cover a bald spot is almost as bad and usually reveals your receding hairline. Growing your hair out at the back in an attempt to make up for the lack of hair at the front or top is also a horrible idea, as it usually brings more attention to your forehead and bald spot.
- 198 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Completely shaving your head can be an excellent way of embracing your baldness. In fact, you’d be very surprised at how fashionable a completely shaved head is nowadays. Add a little bit of well-trimmed facial hair and you can take 10 years off your age. Take a look at John Travolta, seen here on the right, sporting a goatee and shaved head. He looks much better than he would with partial hair.
If you’re unwilling to go the shaved-head route, you could consider a hair transplant procedure. Hair transplants involve using small pieces of hair from the sides and back of the scalp and grafting them onto balding areas. It’s a long process and it can be expensive, but for some men it can be effective.
A second, less desirable option is the hairpiece. Hairpieces can look good, but good ones are also very expensive. A hairpiece can also cause embarrassment in some situations. I would consider this as a “last resort” option.
- 199 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Color and Highlights
Color gives the impression that you’re Helpful Hint actively interested in looking good, which is More often than not, important. Both highlights and full color can look coloring your hair at home can be a disaster. For a few excellent on certain guys. I urge you to avoid going extra dollars, it’s usually with the blonde “frosted tips” approach that was so worth it to have hair color popular with boy bands in the 90’s. This look is on applied professionally. its way out. Instead, try layered highlights one or two shades lighter or darker than your natural hair color. Men with graying hair could do a full dye job, but the graying roots will begin to show within a week or two. A better option is to try to “camouflage” some of the gray.
Don’t bother doing any hair coloring in your bathroom. The chances of screwing up are simply way too high, so you’re much better off going into a professional salon and paying $40 or $50 for some color. Unless you’ve got very short hair, you’ll probably only need color added every second or third haircut. Your stylist can also help you choose a color that works with your skin tone and hair cut.
- 200 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Shampoo and Conditioner
For most men, drug store shampoo and conditioner is completely fine. In many respects, these cheap brands are extremely similar to the expensive brands only available in salons. Those with problematic hair (extremely dry or extremely greasy, very fine, etc) may benefit from specialized products, but beware of stylists who try to sell you expensive products without any real benefit.
When shopping for shampoo and conditioner, look for products that suit your hair type. There are usually some for dry hair, some for normal hair, some for colored hair, etc. Avoid “2 in 1” shampoo/conditioner products unless absolutely necessary, as these usually do an inferior job at conditioning hair. A good conditioner will help nourish and smooth your hair while adding body. If you’re not currently using a conditioner, give it a try – you’ll probably find your hair is much more malleable and responsive to styling products.
- 201 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Chapter Eight | Fashion
For many men, figuring out fashion and clothing can be a serious chore. It’s costly, and it can be extremely difficult to stay current with your clothing style. This chapter will be your guide to looking great, regardless of the situation. By the time you’re finished reading it, you should have a much better understanding of what’s in style, what to wear on certain occasions, and how to best spend your money.
General Fashion Guidelines
Unfortunately, there’s no simple solution to fashion. I can’t tell you exactly what to wear every day, nor can I specify where you should go shopping and how much to spend. To begin with, however, I will outline some basic fashion guidelines that you should always adhere to. If you follow these principles religiously, your fashion sense will improve dramatically.
- 202 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
1) Determine your own personal style or image and stick with it. This is the single most important piece of advice I can give you. You need to decide on an “image” and be consistent. Most people – especially women, who are much more observant than men when it comes to clothing – will question your fashion sense if you’re wearing skate shoes and $40 jeans one day and a $900 Armani suit the next day.
Think for a moment about your own personal “style”. What kind of clothing matches your lifestyle? Are you spending every day meeting upscale clients at the office, or are you a student who spends most of his day in class or in the library? Will you need different clothes for weekends? What kind of style will fit your budget? In the next section, I’ll outline some of the most popular looks. You can use the pictures and descriptions to decide which one works best for you.
2) Emulate someone else’s style. This is fairly simple, but surprisingly many guys don’t already do this. The trick is to find someone who has great fashion sense, and copy their style. Obviously you don’t want to buy all the same clothes they have, but try shopping at the same stores they do or buying
- 203 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
similar items. This could be a friend (in which case you should go shopping with them!), a co-worker, or even a celebrity or someone from a magazine. The trick is to look at what they wear over several days, and go out and buy a mix and match of similar items. If you’re emulating the style of someone you don’t know well (or at all), it may be useful to write down what they’re wearing for a few days in a row.
If you see someone walking down the street wearing something you really like, don’t hesitate to stop and ask them where they bought it. It’s a compliment, and most people will happily divulge. This is something I still do at least once a week, and I’ve found a lot of great stores as a result.
3) Shop with a stylish friend. Going shopping with someone who has great taste is always a good idea. They don’t have to be a fashion king (or queen), but if they have any fashion sense they should be able to tell you what looks good and what looks horrible. Going with a woman is great, especially if she has good taste! Be careful about taking the advice of the store salespeople. If they work on commission, they’ll generally tell you that just about everything
- 204 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
looks “perfect”.
4) Quality over quantity. If faced with the choice of buying ten shirts at $20 each or five shirts worth $40 each, I’d choose to take the more expensive shirts every time. I’m not saying that just because something is expensive makes it nice, but generally, “you get what you pay for”. Later in this chapter I’ll talk about brand-name clothing, but suffice to say that it’s almost always better to have a small amount of nice clothes than a large amount of mediocre ones.
5) Leave your fashion comfort zone. Often, the best dressed men are the ones who are willing to go a little bit “out there” with their fashion sense. I’m not advocating buying anything outrageous, but I suggest that you look for items that stand out a bit. Wearing something unique or bold projects a lot of confidence, which is always good. At the very least, next time you go shopping be sure to try on a few things that you normally wouldn’t. You might be surprised at how good they look.
6) Proper fit is crucial! This is an aspect that’s often overlooked by men. It’s very important that you find and wear clothes that fit you properly. Different styles
- 205 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
or “looks” necessitate different fit. Generally, most men tend to buy clothes that are too big. They end up being baggy and unflattering to your body’s natural shape (even if you’re overweight). Make sure your clothes are neither too loose nor too tight, as both are unattractive and display poor fashion sense.
7) Don’t neglect accessories. Often, a few good accessories can be the difference between a well dressed man and a man with average style. Accessories – which might include watches, bracelets, necklaces, sunglasses, hats, bags, etc – are very important to almost all styles or looks. Although you don’t want to go over the top and wear three necklaces, five earrings and two bracelets, a few selectively chosen accessories are hugely important for almost every outfit. At the very minimum, try to have a couple of watches on hand to match your outfit (two for casual and one for dressier outfits, for example).
8) Good shoes are crucial. I have heard from dozens of different women that shoes are the most important part of a man’s attire. Having several pairs of nice, clean shoes that match your outfit can make a huge difference to your appearance. Often, a nice pair of shoes can vastly improve an outfit. Make
- 206 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
sure that your shoes fit your style: you’ll probably need at least one pair of light and dark colored shoes, one casual and one dressier, etc. Make an effort to keep your shoes clean and polished, too – once they become dirty or tattered it’s time to find a new pair.
9) It’s better to be overdressed than underdressed. Sure, it might be cliché, but it’s true: it’s always better to be overdressed. People who are passionate about style and clothing will always notice someone who is dressed too casually for the occasion. Sweatpants might be comfortable, but they just don’t cut it if you’re trying to look good. Always err on the side of caution and wear something decent.
10) Stay on top of things. Regardless of your own personal style preferences, it always helps to be on top of the latest style trends. Pick up a copy of your favorite fashion magazine every now and then to make sure you’re well versed in the latest trends. You might not like all of the styling advice in the magazine, but it should at least give you some ideas on what’s new and trendy. I do this regularly because it’s a good way to find new stores or brands. GQ and Men’s Health are two decent monthly magazines.
- 207 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Finding Your Style
The difficulty for most men is not deciding what to buy, but deciding on which style to adopt as their own. Deciding on your own style image can be a challenge, and will require you to think about your lifestyle, your personality, and what kind of statement you want to make with your clothes. Different looks will also vary in cost, so you will need to take budget into account when considering your own personal style.
In this section, I’ll break down some of the most common “looks” for men. Keep in mind that no look is set in stone – you may incorporate elements from other styles or vary your image for a certain situation. Nonetheless, each look projects a certain image and demands a different style of clothing. This is not an all-inclusive list, simply a few of today’s most popular looks.
- 208 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Elevated Casual
Ages: Tends to work best on men over 25. An excellent look for middle-aged men.
Lifestyle: If you’re into the “elevated casual” look, you’re likely a professional who typically wears suits or upscale clothing to work. On evenings and weekends, you dress down a bit, but you rarely wear jeans. Polos, slacks, button-up shirts and blazers are your staples.
What It Says About You: You’re very fashion conscious and want to show it at all times. You may bit a bit uptight, but you’re also confident and cultured. You are intelligent and financially secure.
Example Store(s) or Brand(s): Banana Republic, Express, or any business casual clothing store.
Example Clothing Items: Collared shirts, polos, slacks, knit sweaters, blazers, dress shoes.
- 209 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Example Accessories: Scarves, gold/silver watches, leather strap watches, designer sunglasses.
Cost: Expensive. This look is great for professionals or men looking to impress, but it doesn’t come cheap. Shirts may be $50+, jackets $200+, etc.
Photos:
- 210 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Fashionable Casual
Ages: Best suits the 18-35 demographic. Middle aged men are generally better suited to the “elevated casual” look.
Lifestyle: Suits the trendy younger man with an eye for fashion. If you adopt this style, you probably work in some sort of white-collar job, although you may also be a student. This style is often considered the younger version of “elevated casual”.
What It Says About You: You’re confident, intelligent, and outgoing. You’re into fashion and you love showing off the latest trends to everyone at your favorite trendy night club.
Example Store(s) or Brand(s): Guess, Armani Exchange, DKNY, Club Monaco, etc.
Example Clothing Items: Faded or ripped jeans (low rise, straight cut), designer polos or t-shirts, zip-up sweaters, zip-up hoodies, leather jackets, brand- name shoes (white or brown).
- 211 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Example accessories: Scarves, leather strap watchers, leather bracelets, dog tags or trendy necklaces, designer sunglasses, messenger bags, leather wallets, silver rings, diamond stud earrings.
Cost: Moderately expensive. Shirts run anywhere from $25-50, sweaters and hoodies $40-100, jeans $100-200, shoes $80-200.
Photos:
- 212 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
- 213 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Metrosexual
Ages: Suits all ages.
Lifestyle: This look suits the modern, ultra-fashionable urban man (the “metrosexual”).
What It Says About You: If you go for this style, you’re probably a devoted socialite. You won’t consider wearing anything that’s not brand name. You’re extremely confident and comfortable with your lifestyle. You’re the epitome of the trendy urbanite.
Example Store(s) or Brand(s): Lacoste, French Connection (FCUK), Ralph Lauren, etc.
Example Clothing Items: Polos, argyle sweaters, sport coats, trench coats, white jeans, scarves, dress shoes, alligator skin shoes, boots, anything European and ultra-trendy.
Example Accessories: Designer sunglasses, brand-name messenger bags, earrings, designer wallets.
- 214 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Cost: Outrageously expensive. Everything must be brand-name and in-style. Shirts can be $100+, jackets $500+, shoes $250+.
Photos:
- 215 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Simple Yet Stylish
Ages: Suits all ages.
Lifestyle: Suits almost any lifestyle, any profession, or any walk of life. This is a style that is very “safe” and looks good on almost any man, but is not likely to dazzle or impress.
What It Says About You: You care about how you look, and you care about fashion, but you’re not into spending your entire budget on expensive clothes. You’re an all-round happy, down-to-earth guy.
Example Store(s) or Brand(s): GAP, Mexx, RW&Co, etc.
Example Clothing Items: Jeans, khakis, v-neck shirts, sweaters, anything solid colour, striped, or argyle.
Example Accessories: Scarves, leather or silver strap watches.
Cost: Usually reasonable, although given the all-encompassing nature of the style, it can vary greatly by store.
Photos:
- 216 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
- 217 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
American Casual
Ages: Elements of this style can work for all men, but it tends to suit younger men better.
Lifestyle: This look emerged in the last ten years as a result of demand for casual, weekend clothes by the fashion-conscious American. It suits almost any lifestyle, age, or profession, although it’s more for casual use and does not suit bars, clubs, or special events.
What It Says About You: You’re casual, grounded, and laid-back – but you still care about your appearance. You like to have fun but aren’t big into showing off your money through style.
Example Store(s) or Brand(s): Hollister, Abercrombie & Fitch, American Eagle, etc.
Example Clothing Items: T-shirts, polos, hoodies, faded jeans, khaki or twill shorts, baseball or trucker hats.
- 218 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Example Accessories: Leather strap bracelets or necklaces, shell necklaces, cloth wallets.
Cost: Very reasonable. Shirts $15-30, hoodies $30-60, jeans $40-90, shorts $25-50.
Photos:
- 219 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Skate/Surf
Ages: Suits younger men (under 30, perhaps) because of its very casual nature.
Lifestyle: Popularized by the surf/skate/board crowd, this look exploded in the late 1990’s and shows no sign of slowing. It is a very casual look that works best with younger men (especially students).
What It Says About You: You’re carefree, fun, and easy-going. You’re looking for a good time. You’re into fashion, but like to vary a bit from the usual style trends.
Example Store(s) or Brand(s): Quicksilver, Volcom, Hurley, Billabong, DC, Rip Curl, etc.
Example Clothing Items: Stylized t-shirts, hoodies, jeans, board shorts, flip flops, skate shoes, baseball caps, beanies.
Example Accessories: Usually minimal… may occasionally include dog tags, shell necklaces, retro/plastic frame/sport sunglasses.
- 220 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Cost: Often reasonable, although this style can also be pricey for top brand name gear. Shorts $25-60, jeans $60-110, shirts $15-40.
Photos:
- 221 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Weighing the Options
The different looks outlined above represent a few of the most popular styles in today’s fashion world. They are by no means a complete collection, nor are they all suitable for every man. Some men may want to combine certain elements of two different styles, while others may want to adopt something completely different. Regardless of this, these styles all present viable options for your own personal look. So given the wide variety of options, how do you choose a style?
When considering which look will work best for you, the two most important factors to consider are your lifestyle and your budget. As I mentioned earlier, your clothes should mirror your lifestyle. A professional man won’t want to wear Billabong to a dinner meeting with a client, and similarly a teenaged student won’t want to wear an Italian suit to the movie theatre on a Friday night. Thus, I strongly suggest you choose the style or styles that most closely represent your lifestyle.
Secondly, because some of these styles can be extremely expensive, price should be another consideration. If you’re short on cash, you probably don’t have the resources to shop in high-end designer stores, even if you only buy from the sale
- 222 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
rack. As a result, you’ll probably want to pick a style that better fits your budget restraints.
Bargain Hunting
If you’re like me, then you hate spending outrageous sums of money for clothes. It just seems like such a waste of money to lay down $100 for a bit of cotton! Your wallet can take an especially severe beating if you’re into brand-name or high-end clothing. In the past few years, however, I’ve learned a few tricks to help keep my spending down.
The trick to stretching your budget is to be a smart shopper and control your impulses. Even if you absolutely love that pair of jeans, you need to show restraint. Perhaps a similar pair of jeans is available next door for half the price. Perhaps there’s a similar pair on a sale rack at the back of the store. Maybe you’ve already got enough jeans at home, and you should be spending that money on a new pair of shoes, instead.
- 223 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
The best way to find deals is to go shopping regularly. If you can spare half an hour every weekend, head down to the mall and take a quick sweep through your favorite stores. Look for bargain-priced items and scour the sales racks. If you return regularly, you’re likely to find some good stuff on sale.
When you go into a store, don’t just look at the first few racks of clothes. Go to the back of the store and sift through all of the clothing racks. Often, quality sale-priced clothes will be single items hiding amongst a sea of crap. It can take time and effort to find quality items at discount prices.
Check out stores that carry brand names at bargain prices. Stores such as Winners carry overstock or last year’s clothing styles, but most of the time nobody will ever notice. You can find a lot of hidden gems at stores like these, you just need to be patient.
Pick your brand name items carefully. Although it would be great if we could all afford a pair of $300 jeans, it isn’t realistic for most men.
- 224 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Instead of spending hundreds of dollars on inconspicuous items such as jeans, look for brand-name t-shirts or jackets instead. Most people can’t tell the difference between a pair of jeans that costs $80 or one that costs $200. On the other hand, most people can immediately tell whether you bought your shirt from Lacoste or if you bought it from Old Navy. They key is to spend your money where it counts – on items that need to be brand name.
Don’t buy duplicate or very similar items. If you’re on a budget, the one pair of black shoes, for example, is probably sufficient. Similarly, if you rotate them regularly, you may only need to have three or four different pairs of jeans as long as they’re all different colors or styles. Spending your money on very similar items is generally a waste, because most people won’t notice the difference.
Calculate the “cost-per-wear”. At first, spending $45 on a t-shirt might seem pricey. But let’s say you keep that t-shirt for two years, and you wear it once every ten days. That means that after two years of ownership, you’ll have worn that shirt 73 times! In the end, that $45
- 225 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
turns out to be only about $.60 per wear. Items like jeans or jackets can have even lower “cost-per-wear” ratios! On the flip side, be wary of spending huge amounts of money on clothes you’ll rarely wear. If you live in Arizona, it doesn’t seem sensible to spend $400 on a designer coat if you’ll only wear it once a month.
Dress To Your Body
Earlier in this chapter, I mentioned that the fit of your clothes is extremely important. I stated that most men tend to buy clothes that are too loose and baggy, which ends up looking rather strange. There are also certain fashion strategies that you can employ to hide your own flaws and accentuate your physical attributes. Whether you’re short, tall, skinny, overweight, or whatever else – there’s probably a style or way of dressing that suits you best.
Hiding Extra Weight
- 226 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
If you’re packing a few extra pounds in the midsection, then there are a few fashion strategies you can employ to look your best.
Don’t be fooled into thinking that “looser is better”. Even for overweight men, having clothes that fit properly is important. If you have baggy clothes, it can actually further accentuate your extra weight. Of course, clothes that are too tight will also be unflattering. The trick is to find items that are somewhere in between.
Avoid clothes with horizontal or diagonal stripes. These make you look wider. The only stripes that work for overweight men are vertical pinstripes.
Similarly, clothes with big emblems can also make you look bigger. Go for items with small patterns or logos.
- 227 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Try going “monochromatic” with your clothes. Wear a similar colored pants and shirt combination with a different colored sweater, blazer, or jacket over top.
Dark colors are usually more flattering for overweight men. Black and dark blue tend to work particularly well.
Long-sleeve shirts will make you look more proportional. T-shirts and short-sleeved shirts can draw attention to your midsection.
Finding pants that fit well is crucial. Wear low-rise jeans and pants that sit on your hips, not your waist. Avoid slim and tight-fitting jeans or pants. Opt instead for looser fitting or wide-leg styles, which will look more proportionate.
- 228 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Try not to let your stomach spill over your belt line! This is particularly important, but can also be difficult. If needed, wear a slightly larger waist size and use a belt with a small buckle.
Avoid double-breasted suit jackets, and opt for jacket and blazer styles that fall below your butt.
Adding Inches To Your Height
Most men would like to add a couple of inches to their height. Being short can be a major disadvantage. But here are a few methods that shorter men can employ to appear taller:
Wear vertical patterns such as pinstripes or herringbone. Avoid plaid or checkered shirts (although you should do that even if you’re tall…).
- 229 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Wear a single color. If you wear different colored tops and bottoms, it can make you seem shorter than you actually are. Opt for single-color or single- shade pairings. Dark colors tend to make you appear taller.
Go for lightweight fabrics like cotton. Heavy fabrics like wool will make you appear bulkier and thus shorter.
Snug-fitting clothes tend to exaggerate your height. Finding clothes that fit properly is especially important for shorter men. Don’t buy shirts that are too long, either, or else you may have to tuck in a lot of material which will look bulky and make you appear shorter. Whenever possible, leave your shirt untucked.
V-neck and long-sleeve shirts will make you look taller, but turtlenecks and collared shirts can have the opposite effect. Also, avoid cuffs whenever possible, or have them tailored shorter than normal (1” or 1.25” instead of 1.5” or 2”).
- 230 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Buy big, bulky shoes and don’t be afraid to employ lifts or thick insoles. By buying shoes with a large sole you can immediately add at least an inch to your height.
Shoes
Earlier in this chapter, I touched on the importance of shoes. By dedicating another individual section to this topic, hopefully you’ll get the point: having good shoes is crucial! Having old, dirty, beat-up or out-of-style shoes will ruin even the nicest outfit. As a result, it’s crucial that you take the time to find several pairs of nice shoes and care for them properly. As an added incentive, shoes can make a big difference to your health. A bad pair of shoes can cause ankle, knee, hip, back, and even neck problems (not to mention sore feet!). Every man should have at least three pairs of shoes. This is a bare minimum, and most men will want to accumulate five or six pairs for different occasions or outfits.
First, you should have a pair of running shoes or cross-trainers for any outdoor recreation or exercise. These also double as a good pair of shoes for gardening, kicking around the house, etc. Fit is important, especially if you’ll be running or
- 231 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
working out in these shoes. You need not spend a fortune, but don’t cheap out on a garbage Wal-Mart brand.
Secondly, you’ll want a pair of quality black dress shoes. Black is typically better than brown because it works with all colors of pant. If you tend to wear suits or semi-formal attire often, then obviously you’ll want to have more than one pair – opt for one black and one brown. You can mix up the styles, too – one with laces, one without, one with a square toe, etc.
Lastly, regardless of which fashion “look” you adopt, you’ll want a pair of casual shoes. These are for everyday wear with jeans, khakis, shorts, etc. If you wear jeans relatively often, you’ll probably want a couple pairs of casual shoes. White and brown both work well with jeans, and certain styles of shoes can look good in black as well. This is usually the most difficult category of shoes to buy because there are so many different choices. One of my personal favorite brands of late has been Steve Madden shoes because of their affordable price and excellent quality.
Some currently trendy shoe styles that should fit your budget:
- 232 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
- 233 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Accessories
Accessories can be a great way to add to your outfit. Unfortunately, though, many men do a poor job of using accessories to their advantage. They key is to find accessories that match your fashion style, and not to go overboard. As an example, a man who tends to wear very upscale clothes (see “elevated casual”) probably won’t want to wear a necklace or a wallet chain. He would probably benefit from a nice watch, though.
Jewelry
Necklaces, rings, and other jewelry can be nice in moderation. A single, subtle necklace or a single leather bracelet works well for some men. Be careful not to go overboard, though, or sport massive gold chains (you’ll look like a wannabe Italian mobster). Same with rings – one or two subtle rings is good, but don’t wear huge rings or flashy rocks. Your college graduation ring? Yeah, that’s meant to live in your drawer after graduation, not on your finger.
- 234 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
If you’re in doubt as to what jewelry will look good on you, my advice is simple: don’t buy any altogether. Bad or tasteless jewelry looks far worse than none at all.
Piercings
A very small percentage of men can look good with piercings. For most, piercings just look immature and tasteless. As a result, I recommend against any piercings (especially ones anywhere other than your ears). Unless you’re as stylish and cool as David Beckham, an earring or any other piercing is probably going to look out of place.
- 235 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Watches
Watches have a practical function, but they’re also one of the most stylish accessories. I suggest that every man should own one or two different watches to suit his outfit. For a more casual look, try watches with a leather band and a more stylish face. If you’re wearing a suit or something more formal, stick to silver or gold watches with more traditional round or square faces. Avoid plastic watches (they look cheap) and only ever wear a digital watch to the gym (they’re functional, but hardly fashionable). You don’t need to spend a fortune on a watch, just pay for something with half-decent quality so it doesn’t die on you after six months. I find Guess watches to have a good balance between price and quality.
- 236 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Wallets and Bags
Every man needs a wallet or billfold of some sort, so the trick is to find one that works with your own style. For most men, I suggest a plain black or brown leather wallet as a “safe” option. If you’re a bit more adventurous, you can go for one with a subtle pattern. Most people won’t see your wallet, but you don’t want to be caught with a cheap cloth one that’s going to cause embarrassment.
If you need a bag (students may need a bag for school, professionals a bag for laptops or work documents) then I suggest you opt for a single shoulder slung bag. Although they’re not great ergonomically, the “messenger bag” is very fashionable at the moment (much more so than the backpack). These bags are versatile and can be found in a variety of different styles and colors.
- 237 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
Chapter Nine | Next Steps
Congratulations on finishing The Handsome Factor. You are now armed with all of the knowledge you need to become a better looking man. Your improved physical appearance will have a dramatic impact on your self-confidence and will eventually net you a happier, more successful life. Don’t take my word for it – apply the principles I’ve outlined in this book and see for yourself!
I’d also like to thank you again for purchasing this book. It is in my best interest to see you succeed, and I truly hope you are able to use these techniques to improve your appearance and your life.
Wishing you all the best,
Mark Belmont
- 238 -
T H E H A N D S O M E F A C T O R
This e-book may not be sold or distributed under any circumstances. By possessing this book, you agree to the Terms & Conditions outlined on page 11.
This Book Is A Copyright of The Handsome Factor Appearance Improvement Program (http://www.HowToBeHandsome.com).
Please Feel Free To Email Comments, Suggestions, or Questions To:
- 239 -