Jewellery Art Fashion

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Jewellery Art Fashion ccubiertaubierta eexterior.aixterior.ai 88/1/10/1/10 009:03:479:03:47 Número/Number 184 JEWELLERY Número/Number 184 Año XXXV ART Año XXXV FASHION C M Y CM MY CY CMY K JEWELLERY WATCHES ART FASHION 184 ccubiertasubiertas iinterior.ainterior.ai 88/1/10/1/10 008:30:018:30:01 C M Y CM MY CY CMY K Maître Horloger - Les Genevez depuis 1884 Maître Horloger - Les Genevez www.edox.ch depuis 1884 Distribuidor oficial para España: ROJAS MEDITERRANEO, S.L. · Telf. 934644384 · [email protected] · www.edox.ch nº 184 En portada Facet editorial Tel. +34 900 105 110 [email protected] www.facetdiamonds.com La revuelta romántica Unas páginas más allá de estas letras, el lector encontrará a Gaudí. Como todo lo único, ARTE Y JOYA es una publicación de GRUPO DUPLEX su obra, o mejor dicho, el sentido de su obra, permanece. ¿Fruto de la genialidad? ¿De ARTE Y JOYA is a publication edited by GRUPO DUPLEX la individualidad? No hay genialidad que no se entienda sin un entorno que la fomente. Edita / Publishing: Gaudí y la obra de Gaudí es fruto de su tiempo. La Casa Batlló, La Pedrera o incluso la DUPLEX CREATIVOS, S.A. Sagrada Familia no se hubieran alzado para deleite de los ciudadanos de Barcelona y Editor / Publisher: de quienes la visitan, si detrás no hubiera existido un respaldo financiero, una valoración Pedro Pérez ([email protected]) Coordinadora editorial / Publishing Editor: de cada oficio y sus dificultades, un deseo por invertir en lo bello, por recuperar ese Petra Marín ([email protected]) espíritu romántico que siempre vive latente en el corazón de la vieja Europa. La sociedad Publicidad / Advertising: Sara Godomen ([email protected]) crea a sus salvadores, pero también a sus propios verdugos. Y de esta disyuntiva no se Secretaria / Assistant: salva ni el etéreo terreno de las artes. Las generaciones que ahora formamos parte de Gemma Díez ([email protected]) la actual, hemos vivido épocas de bonanza económica en escenarios eclécticos donde Colaboradores externos de diseño External Design contributors: abundaban las líneas duras de hormigón, el vacío atormentado y las pinceladas negras Bitono, S.L. del desencanto. ¡Ojalá que esta crisis nos devuelva la alegría por la vida! Que nos permita Colaboradores externos de redacción volver a disfrutar como se merece del incomparable destello del esmalte al fuego, del External editorial contributors: José Barrero abrazo cálido del oro sobre la piel, del alma acristalada del diamante, y, sobre todo, de la Bianca Cappello Imma Gibert pasión por la creatividad. El arte también es gozo y una joya es quizá la exaltación más Kira Brazinger perfecta de ese sentimiento. Colaboradores externos de fotografía External photography contributors: Carles Segarra (Barcelona) Colaboradores externos de traducción External translation contributors: The romantic uprising Mary C. Black (Intercultural Services) Luxury Network International Ltd. Asian Representatives, A few pages before this letter, the reader will find Gaudí. Just like everything unique, his Maud Errera & Mailys Errera Room A, 13/ F, Trust Tower oeuvre, or more accurately the meaning of his oeuvre, endures. Is this the outcome of 68 Johnston Road, Wan Chai (Hong Kong) genius? Of individuality? There is no genius without an environment that nurtures it. Gaudí [email protected], [email protected] office: (852) 25 29 10 95 and his oeuvre are the result of his time. Casa Batlló, La Pedrera and even Sagrada Familia fax: (852) 25 29 10 98 mobile: (852) 63 53 04 04 would never have been built to delight the residents of and visitors to Barcelona if behind Depósito legal/ Legal Warehouse: B-30172-1975 it there had not been financial backing, an assessment of each trade and its difficulties, a desire to invest in beauty, to recover this romantic spirit that always lies dormant in the Grupo Duplex Via Laietana, 71 pral. 08003 Barcelona heart of Old Europe. Society creates its saviours, but also its executioners. And not even Tel.: +34 933 183 738. Fax. +34 933 185 984 the ethereal realm of the arts is exempt from this dilemma. We generations living today ([email protected]) Contabilidad y finanzas / Accounting and finance: have experiences times of economic windfalls in eclectic scenarios brimming with the harsh Sandra García ([email protected]) Leonor Rodríguez ( [email protected]) lines of concrete, tormented emptiness and the black brushstrokes of disenchantment. If Preimpresión / Pre-Print: only this crisis could give us back our joie de vivre! If only it could help us to once again Gonzalo Pet ([email protected]) enjoy the incomparable glimmer of fired enamel, the warm embrace of gold on the skin, Producción / Production: Pedro Méndez ([email protected]) the crystallised heart of the diamond, and especially the passion for creativity the way they Suscripciones / Subscriptions: deserve to be enjoyed. Art is also pleasure, and a piece of jewellery is perhaps the most María José Soler ([email protected]) perfect embodiment of this sentiment. www.grupoduplex.com Petra Marín arteyjoya sumario summary 6 Firma invitada / Guest signature 71 Novecentonovantanove: Un número mágico Facet A magical number 72 Edox: 125 aniversario a lo grande 8 La pluma de Pedro Pérez Spectacular 125th anniversary gala From Pedro Pérez’s pen 74 Jovial: Cada vez más joven Younger all the thime 10 News 75 Saint Maurice: Símbolo del amor Symbol of the love 14 People 76 SMAKgioielli: Homenaje a Klimt Homage to Klimt Trends & Fashion 28 Aires de libertad / Sense of freedom Patron of the Arts 30 El elegante / The elegant one 78 Manuel Carrera: Premio Internacional Arte y Joya 2009 / 2009 Arte y Joya Prize Discovering 82 Maurice Lacroix: Time for Peace Film 32 Jewelmer & Music Awards 34 Paul Picot 36 Ramon Molvizar Fairs 84 Iberjoya Technical Watches 85 First 38 Novedades / Novelties 86 Oroarezzo 87 Inhorgenta Senses Photoshop 18 La Barcelona de Gaudí / Gaudí’s Barcelona 88 Baselworld 42 Color Party / Colour Party 92 Calendario de ferias / Fairs Calendar 48 Hielo y diamante / Ice and diamond Personality Profile INNOVATION 62 F.P. Journe, relojero y montador Watchmaker and assembler 94 News 58 Ricard domingo, diseñador de joyas Jewellery designer Senses Designers 96 JOYA: Creación con glamour Company Profile Creation with glamour 60 Raymond Weil: Primera boutique en Europa 98 KLIMT02: Colección 2010 / 2010 collection First shop in Europe 100 Rita Feriche: IN-colours Materials 102 Glass Wear: Joyas de cristal / Glass jewellery 62 “Tócala de nuevo, Sam” / “Play it again, Sam” 104 Designers events 66 Quise ser ola / I wanted to be a wave 68 Maxipendientes / Maxi-earrigns arteyjoya _maqueta 184.indd 4 7/1/10 18:30:14 arteyjoya _maqueta 184.indd 6 7/1/10 18:30:17 Después de la crisis, el comercio ya no volverá a ser lo que fue. El consumidor ya ha conocido las mieles de comprar con márgenes industriales, y no los que se venían ofreciendo en el comercio tradicional. Después de compras con descuentos de hasta 70%, ¿cómo vamos a pretender que el consumidor entre a un establecimiento a pagar el PVP tradicional? La tendencia del low-cost (precios bajos) que empezó tímidamente a principios de esta década, se está imponiendo “urbi et orbi” y ya no hay marcha atrás. Líneas blancas en todos los supermercados, Flechazos medicamentos genéricos, atractivos outlets situados en las periferias de las grandes ciudades donde saldan toda clase de prendas y artículos de las marcas más famosas, grandes compañías aéreas low- “on line” cost que están ganando la batalla a las compañías tradicionales,... Nos queda poco tiempo de ver convivir el modelo retail-físico con las ventas on line. Tenemos que adaptarnos a los nuevos sistemas de venta. Empresas importantes están perdiendo muchísimo dinero en el comercio tradicional y tienen que migrar hacia modelos de negocios alternativos. Estamos ante un imparable crecimiento on line y esto va a cambiar todos los usos y hábitos. Internet está cambiando la forma de hacer negocios. El desplazamiento de la inversión publicitaria se va a los medios on line. De ahí el actual auge de redes sociales. El usuario deja de ser un mero ente aislado y pasa a formar parte de un grupo de socialización. Las reglas sociales cambian por completo en la red; ya se comparten aficiones y juegos, se reencuentran amistades y hasta se viven flechazos amorosos por la red. La redefinición es completa, y todo esto se acentúa con la incorporación de la gente mayor a este nuevo hábito. Aunque todavía no se puede romper el modelo tradicional de golpe, porque hay muchos usuarios que no están on line y siguen los circuitos tradicionales. ¿Hasta cuando va a durar este compás de espera? Los fabricantes ya empiezan a salir directos al consumidor, aunque mantengan sus canales tradicionales. En la actualidad sigue existiendo cuota de mercado para todos. Pero, ¿y en el futuro? La estrategia de precios es clave en el mercado on line, pero no olvidemos que también hay clientes dispuestos a pagar mucho por servicios muy VIPs y por ello hay que adaptar tarifas para este cliente. El precio económico ayuda a captar usuarios y el VIP a fidelizarlos. Hay que encontrar el equilibrio. La tecnología está poniendo en manos de todo el mundo la posibilidad de comunicar y esto está provocando un cambio en la industria de los medios de comunicación. Estamos ante un nuevo escenario que incluso está llegando a la política, y algunos políticos llegan a ver amenazado su poder. Hemos de ver la tecnología al servicio de las personas y no al revés. Hoy es imprescindible estar en la red, pero sin dejar de ver en la calle. El poder de la información ha dejado de ser propiedad de los grandes medios.
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