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Jewellery Art Fashion cubierta exterior.ai 25/7/12 12:54:26 JEWELLERY Número/Number 192 ART Año XXXVI FASHION C M Y CM MY CY CMY K JEWELLERY WATCHES ART FASHION 192 www.ramon.es cubiertas interior.indd 1 25/7/12 12:47:05 2012 nº 192 editorial Contradicciones En portada Unión Joyera Vivimos un momento contradictorio. Mientras quienes nos gobiernan conforman un nubarrón amenazante de Bergondo sobre nuestras mentes perplejas y los políticos más parecen contables de manguito desdibujados por el Tel. +34 981 791 379 aguacero de la que nos está cayendo, las iniciativas privadas –de las que esta revista tiene muchas- nos www.ujbergondo.com devuelven cierta ilusión a nuestra maltrecha autoestima. Parece ser el sino del ser humano. Necesitamos ARTE Y JOYA es una publicación de GRUPO DUPLEX de la presión del entorno, sentirnos libres de lastres que nos encadenan a nuestras propias certezas para ARTE Y JOYA is a publication edited by GRUPO DUPLEX levantar cabeza y reinventarnos. Nuestra evolución se ha hecho de revoluciones. Eso explicaría porqué los actuales mandatarios, acomodados en sus sillones, y atados de pies y manos por los dulces grilletes Edita / Publishing: del poder, no muevan ficha en esta partida que se adivina inquietante, pero también enriquecedora. DUPLEX CREATIVOS, S.A. Tienen miedo a saltar al tablero y jugársela. Eso se lo dejan a los emprendedores, a los que deciden Editor / Publisher: comenzar algo de la nada. Los políticos, por ahora, lo tienen todo, continúan teniéndolo todo. Decía Pedro Pérez ([email protected]) Coordinadora editorial / Publishing Editor: Bertolt Brecht que “las revoluciones se producen en los callejones sin salida”, también diríamos que Petra Marín ([email protected]) surgen de la nada que hemos de llenar. Después de un largo periodo de ningunear la palabra revolución, Redactor / Editor sacudir su halo de mito, asociarla a ideologías radicales y, por tanto, temidas, al conflicto violento… Diego Mayor ([email protected]) comenzamos a vislumbrarla en su plena dimensión, en todas sus acepciones. Todos asumimos ya que Publicidad / Advertising: Ahmad Farid ([email protected]) estamos viviendo un cambio de era que supone y supondrá transformaciones no sólo económicas, no Secretaria / Assistant: sólo políticas, no sólo sociales, también personales, y, por tanto, emocionales. La palabra revolución María José Soler ([email protected]) deriva del latín “revolvere”, “volver a girar” o “volver a lo mismo”, entre otras acepciones. Ha sido nuestra Colaboradores externos de diseño historia y sobre todo la revolución francesa la que la ha dotado de ese sabor a cambio profundo y External Design contributors: Roche Graphis renovación. Pero una revolución, sea cual sea su sentido, siempre implicará movimiento. Movimiento también para asumir nuestras contradicciones, eliminar anclajes incapacitantes y liberar sin complejos Colaboradores externos de fotografía External photography contributors: esas iniciativas que darán carisma a la nueva era. Carles Segarra (Barcelona) Colaboradores externos de traducción External translation contributors: Mary C. Black (Intercultural Services) Contradictions We are living in contradictory times. While those who govern us hover like a threatening cloud over our Depósito legal/ Legal Warehouse: B-30172-1975 perplexed minds, and politicians increasingly seem like bean counters blurred by the showers pouring over Grupo Duplex Via Laietana, 71 pral. 08003 Barcelona us, private initiatives – of which this magazine has many – are reviving a bit of enthusiasm in our battered Tel.: +34 933 183 738. Fax. +34 933 185 984 self-esteem. This seems to be the destiny of human beings. We need pressure from our environment, to ([email protected]) Contabilidad y finanzas / Accounting and finance: feel free of the burdens that chain us to our own certainties, in order to improve and reinvent ourselves. Sandra García ([email protected]) Our evolution has yielded revolutions. This would explain why today’s leaders, ensconced comfortably Leonor Rodríguez ( [email protected]) Preimpresión / Pre-Print: in their armchairs and bound hand and foot by the sweet fetters of power, are not making a move in this Gonzalo Pet ([email protected]) game which is glimpsed to be unnerving, yet also enriching. They are afraid to jump onto the board Producción / Production: Pedro Méndez ([email protected]) and join the game. They leave that to the entrepreneurs, to those who decide to make something out of Suscripciones / Subscriptions: nothing. For the time being, the politicians have it all, and continue to have it all. Bertolt Brecht said that María José Soler ([email protected]) “revolutions take place in alleyways”, and we would add that they emerge from the void that we must www.grupoduplex.com fill. After a long period of looking down our noses at the word revolution, shaking off its aura of myth, associating it with radical and therefore frightening ideologies of violent conflict... we are beginning to see it in its full dimension, in all its senses. We all assume that we are already living in a change of epoch that entails and will continue to entail not only economic transformations but also political ones; not only social transformations but also personal and therefore emotional ones. The word revolution is derived from the Latin “revolvere”, or “turn again”, or “return to the same”, among other meanings. Our history, and especially the French Revolution, has conferred on the word this sense of profound change and renovation. However a revolution, regardless of its meaning, always implies movement, the movement to accept our contradictions, to eliminate incapacitating bonds and to happily free up initiatives that will confer charisma on our new age. Petra Marín Editorial.indd 1 24/7/12 16:52:31 sumario summary 6 La pluma de Pedro Pérez 72 Palabra de flor / Flower word From Pedro Pérez’s pen 76 Roberto Coin: Vuelta de tuerca / Turn of the screw 8 News 78 Euro Aurum: Esencia de luz / The essence of light 80 Coolook: Cambio de tercio / Change of direction People 14 Irina Shayk, more… con Morellato/ Fairs More… with Morellato 82 Iberjoya: Más unida a Bisutex / Closer to Bisutex 18 News 83 Macef: Más protagonismo de la joya / Bigger spotlight on jewellery Trends & Fashion 84 Vicenza: Compromiso con el sector / 30 Española / Spanish Commitment to the sector 32 Purpura / Purple 85 Intergem: Buenas expectativas / High expectations 34 Comodidad / Comfort 88 Fairs News: Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, Bangkok Gems & Jewelry Fair, Espaijoia Technical Watches 90 Calendario Ferias / Fairs Calendar 36 Novedades / Novelties Senses Photoshop INNOVATION 22 La senda de los elefantes / The path of the elephants 42 El cuento inédito de los hermanos Grimm / 92 Designers News The untold story of the Brothers Grimm Senses Designers 50 Arena de luna / Moon sand 96 Contemporary Jewellery Yearbook 2012-13 98 Schmuck 2012 Valencia Personality Profile 56 HAAST, Respectful Jewelry Brand 102 Tomàs Palos: Homenaje al maestro / Homage to the master Materials 106 Cristina Rodríguez: Diseñadora de Piropo Joyas / Designer of Piropo Joyas 60 Cannes subyuga / Cannes overpowers 66 Kill Bill: Se ha escrito un crimen / 108 José Marín: ‘Treinta y tres y el triple salto’ / A crime has been written ‘Thirty-three and the triple jump’ 68 Como pez en el agua / Like a fish in water 110 Damià Mulet: ‘I damunt aquesta pedra…’ 2 arteyjoya Pag. Sumario.indd 1 24/7/12 16:53:17 haast.indd 1 25/7/12 11:48:40 bustinza_AyJ_doble.indd 2 25/7/12 11:39:47 Ribera, 2 - 48005 Bilbao (Vizcaya) - Tel.: 944 792 310 - Fax: 944 792 312 - E-mail: [email protected] bustinza_AyJ_doble.indd 3 25/7/12 11:39:54 Llegó el momento. Ahora sí, estamos a las puertas de abrirnos a nuevos mercados. Para los joyeros también el día a día ha de contar. Hay que olvidarse de la estacionalidad y pasar al mundo online. Las ventas por este sistema crecen exponencialmente día a día. Aprovechemos un porcentaje de este crecimiento. El e-comerce nos descarga y nos evita comerciales (¿se han dado cuenta que apenas quedan?), apoya a los detallistas y da facilidades al cliente. Estimula al despliegue de marcas y productos que jamás el consumidor llegó a ver. Es un negocio abierto todo el día y todos los días del año. Internet no tiene fronteras. Abre clientes en todo el mundo, ayuda pues a la exportación. El coste de los correos electrónicos es nulo comparado con los mailings postales que teníamos que hacer para dar a conocer nuestras novedades. Pero los contactos con los clientes no sólo son sin coste, también pueden ser, son al momento. ¿Más ventajas? Podemos controlarlo a nuestra comodidad. Nos permite centrarnos en productos y mercados a selección. Hay mucha posibilidad de encontrar socios con experiencia online en los que confiar. Nos facilita un retorno de inversión instantánea. Encima, aquí los clientes pagan antes de recibir la mercancía. También podemos afirmar que los software que hay en el mercado son de fácil aplicación, tanto para la oferta como para la demanda, pero existen ciertos “trucos” que nunca están de más. De puertas abiertas al mundo ‘online’ Entre ellos, tener presente que las estrategias han de dirigirse siempre al cliente final aunque pasen por distribuidores o detallistas. Otra recomendación, la atención al cliente ha de ser siempre gratuita online y por teléfono. Y además se debe planificar previamente dónde, cómo, cuándo se delimita la promoción, ya sea al público -sexo, edad, zona…- tanto local como internacional. Todo ha de estar meticulosamente estudiado, pensado y aplicado. El poder de la marca sigue siendo importante, pero no olvidemos; es otra forma de hacer marcas, ¡tan y tan necesitadas en nuestro sector! El abanico de posibilidades que tenemos en este momento es lo que venimos diciendo desde hace tiempo: “Después de esta crisis nada volverá a ser igual” y estemos seguros que la crisis acabará.
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