San Diego 2009
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01_285640-ffirs.qxp 7/17/08 2:44 PM Page i San Diego 2009 by Mark Hiss Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_285640-ffirs.qxp 7/17/08 2:44 PM Page ii 01_285640-ffirs.qxp 7/17/08 2:44 PM Page i San Diego 2009 by Mark Hiss Here’s what the critics say about Frommer’s: “Amazingly easy to use. Very portable, very complete.” —Booklist “Detailed, accurate, and easy-to-read information for all price ranges.” —Glamour Magazine “Hotel information is close to encyclopedic.” —Des Moines Sunday Register “Frommer’s Guides have a way of giving you a real feel for a place.” —Knight Ridder Newspapers 01_285640-ffirs.qxp 7/17/08 2:44 PM Page ii About the Author A third-generation Southern Californian, Mark Hiss is a writer and photographer who has lived in San Diego for more than 25 years. Founding editor of the visitor guide Where San Diego and Performances, he wrote Frommer’s San Diego 2008 and contributed to Frommer’s California 2008. Published by: Wiley Publishing, Inc. 111 River St. Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 Copyright © 2008 Wiley Publishing, Inc., Hoboken, New Jersey. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, scanning or otherwise, except as permitted under Sections 107 or 108 of the 1976 United States Copyright Act, without either the prior written permission of the Publisher, or authoriza- tion through payment of the appropriate per-copy fee to the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, 978/750-8400, fax 978/646-8600. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Legal Department, Wiley Pub- lishing, Inc., 10475 Crosspoint Blvd., Indianapolis, IN 46256, 317/572-3447, fax 317/ 572-4355, or online at http://www.wiley.com/go/permissions. Wiley and the Wiley Publishing logo are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates. Frommer’s is a trademark or registered trademark of Arthur Frommer. Used under license. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing, Inc. is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book. ISBN 978-0-470-28564-0 Editor: Christina Summers Production Editor: Lindsay Conner Cartographer: Elizabeth Puhl Photo Editor: Richard Fox Production by Wiley Indianapolis Composition Services Front cover photo: Del Mar Beach with volleyball players Back cover photo: Balboa Park: Cactus Gardens For information on our other products and services or to obtain technical support, please contact our Customer Care Department within the U.S. at 800-762-2974, outside the U.S. at 317-572-3993 or fax 317-572-4002. Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic formats. Manufactured in the United States of America 54321 02_285640-ftoc.qxp 7/17/08 2:41 PM Page iii Contents List of Maps vi What’s New in San Diego 1 1 The Best of San Diego 3 1 The Most Unforgettable Travel 4 The Most Unforgettable Dining Experiences . .3 Experiences . .5 2 The Best Splurge Hotels . .4 5 The Best Things to Do for Free . .6 3 The Best Moderately Priced Hotels . .5 2 San Diego in Depth 7 1 San Diego Today . .7 5 The Navy Builds a Home . .11 2 The Arrival of Spanish 6 An Identity Beyond the Navy Mission “Style” . .8 & Beaches . .11 3 The Missions Give Way to Gold . .9 7 Recommended Books . .13 4 Location, Location, Location . .10 3 Planning Your Trip to San Diego 14 1 Visitor Information . .14 7 Safety . .35 2 Entry Requirements . .14 8 Specialized Travel Resources . .36 3 When to Go . .16 9 Sustainable Tourism . .42 San Diego Calendar of Events . .17 It’s Easy Being Green . .43 4 Getting There & Getting 10 Packages for the Independent Around . .22 Traveler . .44 5 Money & Costs . .33 11 Escorted General-Interest Tours . .45 What Things Cost in San Diego . .34 12 Staying Connected . .45 6 Health . .35 4 Suggested San Diego Itineraries 47 1 The Best of San Diego in 1 Day . .47 3 The Best of San Diego in 3 Days . .50 2 The Best of San Diego in 2 Days . .48 02_285640-ftoc.qxp 7/17/08 2:41 PM Page iv iv CONTENTS 5 Getting to Know San Diego 52 1 Orientation . .54 Off the Beaten Path: North Park The Best of San Diego Online . .55 & Beyond . .60 The Neighborhoods in Brief . .58 2 Getting Around . .61 6 Where to Stay 68 1 Tips on Accommodations . .68 7 La Jolla . .91 2 Best Hotel Bets . .70 The Road to Wellness—Healthful 3 Downtown, the Gaslamp & Havens . .96 Little Italy . .71 8 Coronado . .98 4 Hillcrest & Uptown . .80 A Century of Intrigue: Scenes 5 Old Town & Mission Valley . .84 from the Hotel del Coronado . .100 6 Mission Bay & the Beaches . .86 9 Near the Airport . .103 7 Where to Dine 104 1 Best Bets for Dining . .104 6 Mission Bay & the Beaches . .123 2 Restaurants by Cuisine . .106 Baja Fish Tacos . .124 3 Downtown, Gaslamp Quarter 7 La Jolla . .127 & Little Italy . .109 Appetizing Views . .132 Attack of the Killer Burgers . .114 8 Coronado . .133 4 Hillcrest & Uptown . .115 Picnic Fare . .136 Wood-Fired Pizza . .119 9 Off the (Tourist) Beaten Path . .136 5 Old Town & Mission Valley . .120 8 What to See & Do 138 1 The Three Major Animal Parks . .138 6 Especially for Kids . .167 2 San Diego’s Beaches . .143 7 Special-Interest Sightseeing . .169 3 Attractions in Balboa Park . .147 8 Organized Tours . .172 Balboa Park Guided Tours . .151 9 Outdoor Activities . .176 4 More Attractions . .154 10 Spectator Sports . .185 5 Free of Charge & Full of Fun . .165 9 City Strolls 188 Walking Tour 1: The Gaslamp Walking Tour 3: Old Town . .197 Quarter . .188 Walking Tour 4: Balboa Park . .201 Walking Tour 2: The Embarcadero . .194 02_285640-ftoc.qxp 7/17/08 2:41 PM Page v CONTENTS v 10 Shopping 207 1 The Shopping Scene . .207 3 Shopping A to Z . .215 2 The Top Shopping Neighborhoods . .207 11 San Diego After Dark 222 1 The Performing Arts . .223 5 More Entertainment . .232 2 Live Entertainment . .225 Running with the Grunion . .233 3 The Bar & Coffeehouse Scene . .228 6 Only in San Diego . .234 4 Gay & Lesbian Nightlife . .231 12 Side Trips from San Diego 235 1 North County Beach Towns: The Art of the (Package) Deal . .256 Spots to Surf & Sun . .235 4 Julian: Apple Pies & More . .267 2 North County Inland: From Rancho 5 Anza-Borrego Desert State Park . .273 Santa Fe to Palomar Mountain . .250 6 Tijuana: Going South of 3 The Disneyland Resort & Knott’s the Border . .278 Berry Farm . .254 Appendix: Fast Facts, Toll-Free Numbers & Websites 293 1 Fast Facts: San Diego . .293 2 Toll-Free Numbers & Websites . .298 Index 302 General Index . .302 Restaurants Index . .310 Accommodations Index . .309 02_285640-ftoc.qxp 7/17/08 2:41 PM Page vi List of Maps Suggested Itineraries 49 Where to Dine in Coronado 135 San Diego Area at a Glance 53 What to See & Do in San Diego 139 Where to Stay in Downtown Balboa Park 149 San Diego 73 What to See & Do in Downtown & Where to Stay in Hillcrest & Beyond 155 Uptown 81 What to See & Do in Old Town & Where to Stay in Old Town & Mission Valley 159 Mission Valley 85 What to See & Do in La Jolla 163 Where to Stay in Mission Bay & Walking Tour 1: The Gaslamp the Beaches 87 Quarter 189 Where to Stay in La Jolla 93 Walking Tour 2: The Where to Stay in Coronado 99 Embarcadero 195 Where to Dine in Downtown Walking Tour 3: Old Town 199 San Diego 111 Walking Tour 4: Balboa Park 203 Where to Dine in Hillcrest & Downtown San Diego Shopping 209 Uptown 117 Hillcrest & Uptown Shopping 211 Where to Dine in Old Town 121 La Jolla Shopping 213 Where to Dine in Mission Bay & the Beaches 125 Northern San Diego County 237 Where to Dine in La Jolla 129 Eastern San Diego County 269 Tijuana 279 03_285640-flast.qxp 7/17/08 2:42 PM Page vii An Invitation to the Reader In researching this book, we discovered many wonderful places—hotels, restaurants, shops, and more. We’re sure you’ll find others. Please tell us about them, so we can share the information with your fellow travelers in upcoming editions. If you were disappointed with a recommenda- tion, we’d love to know that, too. Please write to: Frommer’s San Diego 2009 Wiley Publishing, Inc. • 111 River St. • Hoboken, NJ 07030-5774 An Additional Note Please be advised that travel information is subject to change at any time—and this is especially true of prices. We therefore suggest that you write or call ahead for confirmation when making your travel plans. The authors, editors, and publisher cannot be held responsible for the expe- riences of readers while traveling. Your safety is important to us, however, so we encourage you to stay alert and be aware of your surroundings. Keep a close eye on cameras, purses, and wallets, all favorite targets of thieves and pickpockets.