Walking Tours the Complete Set

Home , Bastille (Paris Métro), Berthillon, Boulevard Montmartre, Diptyque, Le Meurice, Louis Visconti

Walking Tours The Complete Set

Table of Contents Culture and History Around the Marais Pigalle and Montmartre Canal Saint Martin Stroll from Saint Germain to Notre Dame Latin Quarter Stroll Louvre to Opera Walk Stroll from Saint Germain to the Louvre Walk from the Palais Royal to Pompidou

Shopping Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille Shopping with Jackie Kennedy Stroll Along rue du Cherche Midi Walk and Shop in Saint Germain Shop Rue St. Domonique and Grenelle

Foodie Gourmet Tour Quick Gourmet Pastry and Chocolate Wine Walk of the 1st and 2nd Around the Marais Walking Tour

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1 Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

1. Place des Vosges – starting point 2. 6 Place des Vosges – Victor Hugo’s house and museum 3. 62 rue St. Antoine – Hotel de Sully 4. 19 Place des Vosges – Ma Bourgogne

5. 9 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Camper

7. 3 rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Theiere 8. 7 rue des Rosiers – Custo* 9. 9 rue des Rosiers – La Marthe* 10. 34 rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel 11. 2 rue des Hospitalieres – St. Gervais – Chez Marianne 12. 27 rue des Rosiers – Sacha Finkelsztajn

*These stores have closed

2  2 Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

13. 31-33 rue des Blancs Manteaux – Les Bains du Marais

14. 56 rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe 14a. 109 rue Vielle du Temple – Breizh Café 15. 75 rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush 16. 64 rue Vieille du Temple – Robert and Louise 17. 72 rue Vieille du Temple – Des Gars 18. 78 rue Vieille du Temple – La Perle 19. 22 rue de la Perle – Consuelo Zoelly

20. 5 rue Thorigny – Musee Picasso**

(The Picasso Museum is temporarily closed for renovations until end of 2013.)

3  3 Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

21. 29-31 rue de Poitou – Hotel du Petit Moulin 22. 39 rue de Bretagne – Marché Enfants Rouges

23. 13 Blvd. du Temple – Murano Hotel

4  4 Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

#12) and 6. Camper, 9 rue des Francs- This walk is approx. 1.5 miles and will take Bourgeois, for those great walking shoes from you between 1-4 hours depending how Spain. Turn left on rue Pavée (you can continue much shopping you do and how long you linger. The walk begins at the most beauti- down Francs-Bourgeois but come back for this ful square in Paris and lets you wander turn) and then right on rue des Rosiers. This is a around the ancient, adorable streets of the very famous street in Paris, it is ancient and the Marais. former epicenter of what was primarily a Jewish neighborhood dating back to the 13th century. While the area now is terribly trendy, you can still Begin at the 1. Place des Vosges in the 4th. find synagogues nearby. This square is recognized by most as the oldest and most beautiful square in Paris. (see 15 must There is a great place for tea at 3 rue des Rosiers do’s) The square was built by King Henri IV in named 7. Le Loir dans la Théière, which is 1605 and inaugurated in 1612 for the wedding of next to Annick Goutal’s perfume shop. This tea Louis XIII and Anne of Austria. You can spend salon also serves scrumptious desserts and lovely some real time here either for a drink, breakfast, lunches and the atmosphere is relaxed and artsy. lunch, or dinner, or by visiting the shops and galler- Also we like 8*. Custo at number 7 from Barce- ies underneath the arches. lona, for original and very colorful men’s and women’s shirts. In addition there are two museums on the square, 2. Victor Hugo’s house (open daily 10-5:40, The very chic 9*. Lamarthe for handbags is except mondays) at 6 Place des Vosges (01 42 72 also here at number 9. 10. L’As du Fallafel, 10 16) and Hôtel de Sully at 62 rue St. An- 3. down the street at 34 rue des Rosiers is home to toine (01 44 61 20 00), which has beautiful gar- the most famous falafel in Paris — this is a fun & dens and is a photography museum. Hotel de Sully cheap take-out lunch. As David Lebovitz says in was built in 1625 by Architect Jean Androuet Du his Paris food blog “You can't come to Paris and Cerceau. And at end: Open everyday. You can not have a falafel at L'As. It just isn't done.” also access the museum from 7 Place des Vosges. Continue on down rue des Rosiers, and you’ll 4. Ma Bourgogne at 19 Place des Vosges is a come to 11. Chez Marianne at 2 rue des Hos- great place for a quick coffee before you are off pitalières-St-Gervais on the corner. Chez and is open every day from 8am-1am. This is a Marianne also has falafel plus all the meze you quintessential Parisian bistro, not fancy food but can eat if you prefer to sit down, and the setting is hearty and uncomplicated fare. Heaters are often more charming than L’As. Note: Falafel places are turned on so you can sit outside and enjoy the view often closed on Saturdays and quite busy on Sun- of the Place even in winter. A page on everything days. Save room for the Russian & Jewish pas- Place des Vosges has to offer can be found here. tries across the street at 12. Sacha Finkelsztajn at 27 rue des Rosiers. At the end As you face Pavillon de la Reine, the only hotel on of rue des Rosiers turn right and continue on rue the square, exit the square to the left and continue Vieille-du-Temple. on rue des Francs-Bourgeois to check out the shops. There are many here we like including Rue des Blancs-Manteaux has some cute shops 5. Autour du Monde at #8 and #12 rue des as well as the 13. Bains du Marais at 31-33 Francs-Bourgeois (you can find those famous rue des Blancs-Manteaux profiled in the Out of French Bensimon sneakers at the ADM store at the Ordinary section. This is the very chic Turk- 2  5 5 Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

ish hammam and spa and is a great place to wind Museum if you’d like to get some culture in. Take down after a day of walking through Paris. Ham- a right on rue de la Perle and then left on rue de mams, which are similar to a steam room, are all the Thorigny for the Musée Picasso** (The Picasso rage in Paris. (01 44 61 02 02) Call in advance to Museum is temporarily closed for renovations until reserve a massage and steam. 2012.) It’s a small yet very well done museum cov- ering a wide range of his work plus they have some Continue along rue Vieille-du-Temple and you’ll cross wonderful photographs of the artist. The mansion rue des Francs-Bourgeois again if you want to check that houses the museum is gorgeous, as is the gar- out some of the shops you missed earlier. den out back. From here exit out to rue de Thorigny and back to rue Vieille-du-Temple turning left then Back on rue Vieille-du-Temple continuing north you’ll left again on rue des Coutures-Saint-Gervais and pass at 56 rue Vieille-du-Temple, 14. Paul & Joe then right on rue Vieille-du-Temple. Continue to rue a shop we love for both men and women. Note: if de Poitou, where you’ll turn left. The street has you are still hungry tuck into 109 rue Vielle du Tem- many small special shops as well as 21. Christian ple for a scrumptious crepe at . 14a. Breizh Café Lacroix’s Hôtel du Petit Moulin at 29-31 rue This is one of the best creperies in Paris. de Poitou, profiled in our Where To Stay section. Take a peek into the lobby and grab a bro- 15. Manoush at 75 rue Vieille-du-Temple across chure. Turn right at the end of the street onto rue the street is worthy of a look. 16. Robert and Charlot. Continue on Charlot just about to rue de Louise at 64 rue Vieille-du-Temple (01 42 78 55 89) Bretagne where you’ll see an entrance to the 22. is an excellent restaurant on this street, which is pro- Marché des Enfants Rouges on your left. filed in our Dining section. Check it out and see if you’d like to come back for dinner. We adore their This is the oldest covered market in Paris. This steak cooked over the open fire. isn’t a proper food market although there are a few stalls, but it is a great place to buy a cheap 17. Des Gars dans la Cuisine is another res- and excellent lunch if you haven’t already taurant a bit further down at 72 rue Vieille-du-Temple stopped. Enjoy Moroccan, or excellent Japa- (01 42 74 88 27) that attracts a crowd for its trendy nese, French, Italian or Caribbean food — setting and good eats. Continuing further along you’ll tables abound, but order first from the stalls. come to the corner of rue de la Perle and rue Vieille- Exit on rue de Bretagne and enjoy strolling du-Temple where you’ll find the most popular bar in through all the small food vendors on this market the Marais (not counting the gay bars) called 18. La street. Turn right continuing on rue de Bretagne Perle at 78 rue Vieille- du-Temple profiled in our until you reach rue de Saintonge where you’ll Dining section under Bars. Forget getting a table turn left. Turn left again on rue de Turenne and here at night. Everyone just stands and drinks on the right on Charlot until you reach Blvd. du Temple. street hoping to see the models that often frequent the place. If you turn left here you’ll hit the large metro station of République and if you turn right you can 19. Consuelo Zoelly at 22 rue de la Perle (01 42 72 09 16) is an American/Swiss designer residing in Paris. This is her only shop in Paris. We appreciate her inventive yet very wearable styles.

From here you are very close to the 20. Picasso

3  6 6 Around the Marais Walking Tour cont’d

take a look at the 23. Murano Hotel at 13 du Marais Blvd. du Temple (one of the trendiest places in Paris). Stop in for a drink if you are dressed for 14. 56 rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe it. Across the street is the historic Cirque d’Hiver. Note the interesting architectural detail 14a.109 rue Vielle du Temple – Breizh Café on the side of this circular building. Metro home but be sure to come back to the Marais for din- 15. 75 rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush ner one evening or at least drinks — it’s always a hopping fun place to be at night. You won’t be 16. 64 rue Vieille du Temple – Robert and Louise far from the Filles du Calvaire metro stop which is slightly further down south on the Boulevard 17. 72 rue Vieille du Temple – Des Gars du Temple at the corner of rue Filles du Calvaire. 18. 78 rue Vieille du Temple – La Perle

19. 22 rue de la Perle – Consuelo Zoelly

20. 5 rue Thorigny – Musee Picasso Points of Interest Addresses 21. 29-31 rue de Poitou– Hotel du Petit Moulin 1. Place des Vosges – starting point 22. 39 rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants 2. 6 Place des Vosges – Victor Hugo’s house and Rouges museum 23. 13 Blvd. du Temple – Murano Hotel 3. 62 rue St. Antoine – Hotel de Sully

4. 19 Place des Vosges – Ma Bourgogne

5. 8 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde

6. 9 rue des Francs Bourgeois – Camper

7. 3 rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Theiere

8. 7 rue des Rosiers – Custo

9. 9 rue des Rosiers – La Marthe

10. 34 rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel

11. 2 rue des Hospitalieres – St. Gervais – Chez Marianne

12. 27 rue des Rosiers – Sacha Finkelsztajn

13. 31-33 rue des Blancs Manteaux – Les Bains

4  7 7 Pigalle and Montmartre

8 Pigalle and Montmartre

2  2 9 Pigalle and Montmartre

3  3 10 Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

1. Metro Blanche in the 18th on Blvd. Clichy – starting point

2. 15 rue Lepic – Café des Deux Moulins 3. 28 rue Lepic – Les Petits Mitrons 4. 26 rue Lepic – Epicerie du Terroir

5. 35 rue des Abbesses – Le Sancerre 5a. 38 rue des Abbesses – Le Greniere à Pain 6. 19 – 21 rue des Abbesses – Saint-Jean de Montmartre

4  4 11 Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

7. 44 rue Lepic – Espace W 8. 42 rue Lepic – A La Pomponette 9. 41 rue Lepic – La Rughetta

10. 83 rue Lepic – Le Moulin de la Galette

12. 11 rue Poulbot – Espace Dali

5  5

12 Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

13. 2, rue l’Abreuvoir – Maison Rose 14. 22 rue des Saules – Au Lapin Agile 15. 12 rue Cortot – Montmartre Museum (Musee Montmartre)

16. Parvis du Sacre Coeur – Sacre Coeur 17. 2 rue Ronsard - Halle St. Pierre

18. 51 rue des Martyrs – L’Epicerie Fuxia 19. 25 rue des Martyrs – Fuxia

 6 13 Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

20. 16 rue Chaptal – Musee de la Vie Romantique 21. 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld – Musee Gustave-Moreau

22. 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre – A La Mere de la Famille 23. 31 rue du Faubourg Montmartre – Passage Verdeau 24. 14 Passage Verdeau – Photo Verdeau 25. 6 Passage Verdeau – Librarie Roland Buret 26. Passage Jouffroy – Hotel Chopin

27. Passage Panoramas 28. 30 Passage Panoramas – Le Valentin 29. 8 Passage Panoramas – Racines 30. 10 blvd Montmartre – Musee Grevin

7  7 14 Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

31. 40 Blvd. Haussmann – Galeries Lafayette 32. 64 Blvd. Haussmann - Printemps

 8 15 Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

of Invalides and Napoleon’s tomb stands out. If it is a hot day, this walk is best done in the morning and will last 4+ hours or more As you continue up rue Lepic, to the left you’ll depending on your pace. Go slow and see one of the two remaining windmills of Mont- make a day of it. martre set on top of 10. Le Moulin de la Galette 83 rue Lepic (see Dining section) at the corner of rue Girardon (01 46 06 84 78) is a lovely place for lunch or dinner and open every Begin at 1. Métro Blanche in the 18th and day. The owners also have a movie theatre travel up the hill on rue Lepic heading north keep- showing art films around the corner. Across the ing the Moulin Rouge on your left. We do not street from Le Moulin is recommend going to the Moulin Rouge as it is 11. La Divette du at 98 rue Lepic which is another solid dreadfully tacky but its history is interesting. Moulin restaurant you might want to book for dinner (01 Pass by the 2. Café des Deux Moulins at 15 46 06 34 84). Their Côte de Boeuf is popular. rue Lepic (01 42 54 90 50), from the movie Amélie, and have a coffee if you like. Continue on Lepic and Turn right on rue Norvins then left on rue des Saules to avoid the masses of tourists in the check out the 3. Épicerie du Terroir, 28 rue Le- Place du Tertre, a place we avoid like the pic, which is good for specialty food gifts at the cor- plague, but if you want to take a detour then ner of rue Véron. The artisanal tartes at 4. Les venture in at 11 rue Poulbot Petits Mitrons, 26 rue Lepic, are worth mention- 12. Espace Dali it is worth a look (take a right just before you ing. Follow Lepic up to the left as you come to rue enter the square and follow the signs). This is des Abbesses; if you turn right on Rue des Abbesses not a spectacular museum, but a fun stop if you you’ll find some wonderful bars such as 5. Le San- are a Dali fan. Otherwise continue down rue cerre at 35 rue des Abbesses (01 42 58 08 20) and des Saules until you reach rue Saint-Vincent interesting food shops on this market street. At 38 where you’ll see the last of the remaining grape rue des Abesses you’ll find 5a. Le Grenier à vines in Montmartre. These are the vines they Pain, 2010 winner of the Grand Prix for best ba- harvest and celebrate during the guette in Paris. Plus there is a notable Arts and Fête des in October. Turn right here, noting Crafts style church at 19 and 21 rue des Abbesses Vendanges the beautifully picturesque La Maison called 6. Saint-Jean de Montmartre. Le San- 13. restaurant on your left at 2 rue Abreuvoir cerre stays open very late so you can join the fun Rose later on. But if you don’t have extra time for the (01 42 57 66 75), which we hear is quite nice. Also across the street from the small vineyard is diversion, continue up Lepic to the left, passing 22 rue des Saules (01 44 Lepic, which is a cutting edge art gallery called 14. Au Lapin Agile 46 06 85 87) a venue famous for its patrons 7. Espace W. (Picasso and Modigliani) and old-fashioned 8. À la Pomponette at 42 (01 46 06 08 36) & cabaret music (think Edith Piaf). 9. La Rughetta at 41 (01 42 23 41 70) are fairly good restaurants worth noting on Lepic if you want Continue along Saint Vincent stopping if you like at the at 12 to come back for dinner. As you turn and begin 15. Montmartre Museum rue Cortot, with another entrance on Saint- marching up the big hill, you’ll see the top of Vincent. The museum which houses the history Sacré-Cœur (the famous church on the mount). of Montmartre is not going to blow you away, At the corner of Lepic and rue Tholozé look to your but the garden is lovely and it’s a nice respite right for a wonderful view of Paris. The gold dome from the tourists. Stay on St. Vincent until it

 92 16 Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

ends and take a right at rue de la Bonne and you’ll rue Notre-Dame-de-Lorette to the Musée de la see the 16. Sacré-Cœur. Take another right at Vie Romantique at 16 rue Chaptal (01 55 31 95 rue du Chevalier-de-la-Barre and left on Cardinal 67). Rue Chaptal will be off to your left just after Guibert to enter the church. Depending on the sea- you come to rue Jean-Baptiste Pigalle where son, cool off or warm up in this impressive cathe- the road forks. The museum was the home of dral, built from 1875 - 1914 in the Romano- Ary Scheffer and a frequent stop for the writer Byzantine style. George Sand. It gives you an idea of what life was like during the 1830’s but it’s not a must- Exit the church and behold the most amazing view see unless you are visiting in good weather of the entire city of Paris. Follow the hordes of peo- when the garden café is open. The outdoor café ple down the stairs on either the right or left side is an absolute delight. ending up at rue St. Pierre where you’ll take a left. Note: Be careful here of men trying to sell you Exit the museum to the right and turn left on rue bracelets. Walk away from them if they do as their Blanche. Follow this street down until you can method of putting a bracelet on you and then de- turn onto Rue de la Tour des Dames which you manding payment is a bit too aggressive for our will follow until it dead-ends. 21. Musée Gus- liking. Take another left at rue Ronsard if you would tave-Moreau is on Rue de La Rochefoucauld like to visit 17. Halle St. Pierre at 2 rue Ron- at number 14 (01 48 74 38 50), which you sard (01 42 58 72 89), which is dedicated to emerg- should see to your left. This museum is worth ing artists. The little café here is a nice place to visiting in winter or summer as it is both an hide from the crowds near the church and have a atelier full of the French symbolist painter’s quick tea or lemonade. Exit left out of the Halle and work as well as his home. The furnishings and turn down rue Seveste and take a right on rue his artifacts are in place and well preserved and d’Orsel. This street has some cute shops further really give you a feel of Paris in the late 1800’s. down. Take note of the lovely Theatre at Place A visit will have you in and out in under an hour. Dullin. Follow d’Orsel until rue des Martyrs where you’ll turn left. Continue on Martyrs, which is one of Exit the museum to the left, and take another our favorite streets, as you enter the 9th passing left on Rue St. Lazare until you reach the across Boulevard Clichy. church again (Notre-Dame de Lorette) which is worthy of a quick visit although the church’s ex- On Martyrs you can lunch at 18. l’Epicerie terior could use some renovation. Cross the Fuxia at 51, which is a charming little Italian place. Place here to find rue du Faubourg-Montmartre. Here you can order a plate of mixed antipasti and Down this street is 22. À la Mère de la Fa- charcuterie or sardines and octopus, knocking it mille at 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre, down with a glass of Italian wine. For fancier dining, which is a famous old candy and chocolate the same owners have another Italian restaurant shop for gifts ‘extraordinaire’. further down the street at 25 rue des Martyrs called simply 19. Fuxia. Follow the rue until you reach 23. Passage Verdeau at 31 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre Perhaps you’d like to wait to lunch in the garden (if (04 47 70 83 69), which is one of the old pas- it’s nice out) at 20. Musée de la Vie Roman- sages couverts (covered passageways). This tique, which isn’t too far away. To get there, con- one was built in 1847. Shop for antique chil- tinue along Martyrs until it ends at l’Église Notre- dren’s books at 25. Librarie Roland Buret Dame-de-Lorette. Turn slightly right here and take 6 Passage Verdeau. Continue through Verdeau

 103 17 Pigalle and Montmartre cont’d

until you enter Passage Jouffroy which hosts 6. 19 – 21 rue des Abbesses – Saint-Jean de mainly bookstores but where you can find the well Montmartre known 24. Photo Verdeau at #47 (it recently 7. 44 rue Lepic – Espace W moved to Jouffroy from Verdeau) (01 47 70 51 8. 42 rue Lepic – A La Pompnette 91) . Also note the charming little 26. Hôtel Cho- pin if you are looking for a quaint if simple room. 9. 41 rue Lepic – La Rughetta Follow this Passage until it ends and cross the 10. 83 rue Lepic – Le Moulin de la Galette Blvd Montmartre into the final Passage and the oldest of them all, named 27. Panoramas built 11. 98 rue Lepic – La Divette du Moulin in 1799-1800. This passage is home to restau- 12. 11 rue Poulbot – Espace Dali rants and cafés. Two are particularly noteworthy — 28. Le Valentin for tea at number 30 or 29. 13. 2, rue l’Abreuvoir – Maison Rose at number 8, which offers a wide selec- Racines 14. 22 rue des Saules – Au Lapin Agile tion of organic wines and Italian charcuterie plus a small selection of market choices each day. This 15. 12 rue Cortot – Montmartre Museum (Musee place is a find. Reserve for dinner if you like (01 Montmartre) 40 13 06 41). 16. Parvis du Sacre Coeur – Sacre Coeur

Exit the Panoramas onto the Blvd Montmartre and 17. 2 rue Ronsard - Halle St. Pierre end your day on a very kitsch note if you are the 18. 51 rue des Martyrs – L’Epicerie Fuxia type, and go to the 30. Musée Grevin (the wax museum) at 10 Boulevard Montmartre. This is a 19. 25 rue des Martyrs – Fuxia place we would avoid like the plague, but it can be 20. 16 rue Chaptal – Musee de la Vie Romantique fun if you’ve got kids along. The metro station 21. 14 rue de la Rochefoucauld – Musee Gustave- Grands Boulevards is right nearby. If you still have Moreau energy you can turn right onto Blvd Montmartre which turns into Blvd Haussmann and hit 31. 22. 35 rue du Faubourg-Montmartre – A La Mere Galeries Lafayette, 40 Boulevard Haussmann de la Famille and 32. Printemps at 64 Blvd. Haussmann for 23. 31 rue du Faubourg Montmartre – Passage a bit of department store shopping. Verdeau

24. 14 Passage Verdeau – Photo Verdeau

25. 6 Passage Verdeau - Librarie Roland Buret Points of Interest Addresses 26. Passage Jouffroy - Hotel Chopin 1. Begin at Metro Blanche in the 18th on Blvd. Clichy 27. Passage Panoramas

2. 15 rue Lepic – Café des Deux Moulins 28. 30 Passage Panoramas – Le Valentin

3. 28 rue Lepic - Epicerie du Terroir 29. 8 Passage Panoramas – Racines

4. 26 rue Lepic – Les Petits Mitrons 30. 10 blvd Montmartre – Musee Grevin

5. 35 rue des Abbesses – Le Sancerre 31. 40 Blvd. Haussmann – Galeries Lafayette

5a. 38 rue des Abbesses – Le Greniere à Pain 32. 64 Blvd. Haussmann - Printemps

 114 18 Canal Saint-Martin Walking Tour

19 Canal Saint-Martin Walking Tour Cont.

1. Rue du Faubourg du Temple and the quai de Jemmapes

2. La Marine 3. Chez Prune 4. Jours de Fête

5. L’Hôpital Saint-Louis 6. Le Cambodge 7. Philou 8. Marty Tattoo

9. Square Sainte-Marthe 10. La Sardine 11. Le Galopin

12. Pink Flamingo 13. La Chambre aux Oiseaux 14. Pop Market 15. Grafiti by Chanoir 16. La Cantine de Quentin 17. Vintage Fripes et Objets 18. L’Hôtel du Nord 19. Le Citizen 20. Bleuet Coquelicot 21. Carmen Ragosta 22. Ethicando

23. Bensimon 24. Artazart 25. Boulanger et Pâtisserie 26. Fuxia 27. Le Petite Focan 28. La Piñata 29. La Galerie Végétal 30. Philippe le Libraire 31. Sol Semilla

32. Atelier-Galerie 33. Jardin Villemin 34. Antoine et Lili 35. Sandro

36. Marcel 37. Canaletto Caffè

38. Agnès B. 39. Les Petites 40. WeSC 41. Claudie Pierlot 42. Maje 43. APC 44. Centre Commercial 45. Du Pain et des Idées 46. Coin Canal

47. Alhambra 48. Agnès B. Homme 49. Les Chemins Blancs 50. Renhsen 51. Bel Air 52. Ideco 53. Liza Korn 54. Cotélac 55. Bazar Ethic 56. The Kooples 57. Ekyog 58. IKKS

Continue walking along the canal on the right side Note: The canal Saint-Martin area is one of the most exciting and up-and-coming areas in town. Stroll this until you reach avenue Richerand. Take a right and area around the canal at your leisure, as it is chockful of go into the courtyard of 5. l’Hôpital Saint-Louis, wonderful restaurants, artistic shops and great grafiti. founded in the early 17th century during the reign of The tour should take you 3-4 hours, depending on how Henri IV, and which is nearly an exact replica of the long you linger. Toward the end, you’ll ind two streets Place des Vosges. Before you reach the hospital, illed with designer discount shops. Come back to the you’ll pass two restaurants on avenue Richerand area and take a bike ride along the canal, or consider doing the entire tour via bike. that are both recommended by le Fooding. The irst is 6. le Cambodge (10, avenue Richerand), a Cambodian restaurant; be sure to go early or be Begin at the intersection of 1. rue du Faubourg prepared to wait in line. The second is the well- du Temple and the quai de Jemmapes. You will known wine bar 7. Philou (12, avenue Richerand). see a beautiful statue of a grisette, a French work- It’s a great place to return to at night or even for ing-class woman from the late 17th century, on the lunch if you can get a reservation. left, and facing the canal, you will see a bust of Frédérick Lemaître, a famous 19th-century Parisian A couple doors down from Philou on the right side, theatre actor. The canal, which is 4.5 kilometers you will see 8. Marty Tattoo (16, avenue Richer- (about 3 miles) long and stretches through the 10th and). The studio offers gorgeous, artistic tattoos, Arrondissement, was commissioned in 1802 by and if you are not ready to get a permanent one, Napoleon and completed in 1825. you can get a temporary.

Go up the right, or east, side of the quai de Jem- At the end of avenue Richerand, turn right and mapes. Walking right along the canal, you’ll see you’ll ind on your left the entrance to 5. l’Hôpital its different levels. You can take the canal cruise Saint Louis, which has a brick facade. Use the (http://www.canauxrama.com), but we ind it a bit pedestrian entrance (there are two separate doors touristy. to go through before you reach the inside of the courtyard, and the second is called Porte 11). The At any point, you can walk over the high bridges, door is shut on Saturday, Sunday and holidays. from where you can enjoy beautiful views and take Once inside, you’ll quickly notice the resemblance a few photos. Along the canal, there are several to the Place des Vosges, but it is ininitely quieter restaurants that we like. At the corner of rue Alib- and more peaceful here. ert on the left side of the canal is 2. la Marine (55, quai de Valmy), which is a good place for lunch or Walk to the other side and exit on rue Juliette Dodu, dinner by the second bridge. At the next bridge to then take a right and walk until the road ends. the north, you’ll ind 3. Chez Prune (36, rue Take another right and continue until you reach rue Beaurepaire), which is a very trendy, fun place to Saint-Maur, where you’ll turn left. When you reach go for a drink or dinner. We like the steak frites and rue Sainte-Marthe, turn left again. At the end of the bohemian atmosphere there. Also, 4. Jours this street, you’ll ind the darling 9. Square Sainte- de Fête, on the right side of the canal (72, quai de Marthe, where there are two good restaurants: Jemmapes), is a cute tapas place. 10. la Sardine (32, rue Sainte-Marthe) and 11. le Galopin (34, rue Sainte-Marthe). The irst is better

for drinks and tapas, while the latter is wonderful highly recommend. It is an excellent, very afford- for more-upscale French food at a decent price. able place to stay. If you are a fan of lorists, take Either is worth a return trip for dinner. Reserve a left onto rue de la Grange aux Belles and you’ll ahead for le Galopin. discover a particularly lovely one on the right side, 20. Bleuet Coquelicot (10, rue de la Grange aux Retrace your steps, either going back through Belles). You’ll ind delightful items here. Walking the hospital or around it to end up on rue Bichat. back toward the canal, you’ll notice 21. Carmen Turn right if you are exiting the hospital. Down this Ragosta (8, rue de la Grange aux Belles), A bou- street you’ll ind the 12. Pink Flamingo (67, rue tique and restaurant, cleverly satiating two desires Bichat), a fun place for pizza on the corner of rue at once! Next door is 22. Ethicando (6, rue de la Bichat and rue de la Grange aux Belles. Grange aux Belles), a casual Italian concept store/ café/épicerie. Continue along rue Bichat, where you’ll ind 13. la Chambre aux Oiseaux** (48, rue Bichat), Returning to the quai de Jemmapes, cross over which is perfect for tea or brunch. Next door, 14. the canal to reach rue de Lancry. At the corner of Pop Market (50, rue Bichat) is illed with small, the quai de Valmy, you’ll spot 23. Bensimon and fun gifts. As you walk toward the canal, on the 24. Artazart (both at 83, quai de Valmy). Step left you’ll discover animal grafiti by the artist 15. inside Artazart, an art and design bookshop with a Chanoir; on the right you’ll see 16. la Cantine de selection of gifts. Bensimon is of course famous for Quentin (52, rue Bichat), which is a great little its French tennis shoes, and at this particular shop wine bar that offers many items to buy or take out, there are also items for children. including foie gras. Follow rue Bichat until it ends at the canal. Walk down rue de Lancry and check out the 25. Boulanger et Pâtisserie (58, rue de Lancry) on After passing the cat graitti on your left, turn left the corner, which looks quite charming and sits and notice the interesting doors and their han- across from 26. Fuxia (15, rue Jean Poulmarch), dles. Head back south on rue Jemmapes to ind an Italian chain that’s great for quick salads and a charming little shop that has a green facade and pasta. From Fuxia, if you turn around and take rue the word “Brocante” on it. The store, 17. Vintage Jean Poulmarch toward the canal, you’ll ind more Fripes et Objets (104, quai de Jemmapes), grafiti. carries vintage clothing and a few small antiques. Farther down is 18. l’Hôtel du Nord (102, quai If you’re interested in gifts for children, walk down de Jemmapes), a chic and trendy spot for lunch rue des Vinaigriers to 27. le Petite Focan (25, rue or dinner, with candlelit tables, and which is larger des Vinaigriers). In the same building is 28. la than it appears from the outside. The food is not Piñata, which offers Mexican-inspired items. Next amazing, but you can go for the basics and enjoy door is 29. la Galerie Végétal (27, rue des Vinai- the people-watching. griers), a stunning lorist that carries small gifts.

At the corner of the quai de Jemmapes and rue de Farther down the street is 30. Philippe le Libraire la Grange aux Belles is 19. le Citizen** (96, quai (32, rue des Vinaigriers), a shop that sells comic de Jemmapes), a designer boutique hotel we books. A good place to stop for coffee or a healthy

French brand. Farther down is 43. APC (5, rue de glass of juice is 31. Sol Semilla (23, rue de Vin- Marseille), which, unfortunately, is not a stock store. aigriers); the purple power mix is recommended. When you reach rue Lucien Sampaix, turn right, A very unique and well-designed store, 44. Centre and then left onto rue des Récollets. Look for the Commercial (2, rue de Marseille) has clothing for 32. Atelier-Galerie (13, rue des Récollets), the studio men and women and some vintage furniture. Next of ceramic artist Emmanuelle Wittmann, where her door on the corner, on rue Yves Toudic, is the bou- pottery is sold and courses are offered. langerie 45. du Pain et des Idées (34, rue Yves Toudic), which was voted the best boulangerie in Continuing along, look for a grand entrance marked Paris in 2008. “hôpital militaire Villemin” and enter the 33. Jardin Vil- lemin. The park was created in 1977 on the grounds Across the street is 46. Coin Canal (1, rue de of a former military hospital. When you enter the park, Marseille), a good stop for 20th-century interior walk to the right along the dirt path and you’ll notice designs. When you reach rue Yves Toudic, turn left a beautiful green sculpture. There will also be a sign and walk down the street until you see the sign for for public restrooms. Stay to the right, heading back 47. Alhambra (21, rue Yves Toudic), a theatre toward the canal. On the right side you’ll ind a lovely, if where you can see plays as well as music and a bit unattended, herb garden. comedy performances. Check to see if there is an Exit here, back onto the quai de Valmy. Turn right event you’d like to come back for. and you’ll spot three 34. Antoine et Lili (95, quai de Valmy) stores with very colorful facades. After stop- At the corner of rue Beaurepaire, you’ll see 48. ping in, walk south along the canal past them. Next Agnès B. Homme (1, rue Dieu). Take a left on you’ll see 35. Sandro (93, quai de Valmy). Much less rue Beaurepaire and you’ll ind more shopping. For colorful and more practical than Antoine et Lili, Sandro made-in-France apparel, stop at 49. les Chemins carries men’s and women’s clothes. Continue past the Blancs (20, rue Beaurepaire). Farther down is grafiti and past rue de Lancry until you reach rue de 50. Renhsen (22, rue Beaurepaire), which carries Marseille. Keep in mind for later two restaurants you’ll its own popular line of jeans as well as Swildens have passed on the other side of the canal: both 36. T-shirts and bohemian accessories. The stock store Marcel (90, quai de Jemmapes) and 37. Canaletto of 51. Bel Air (22, rue Beaurepaire) offers very Caffè (88, quai de Jemmapes) are good restaurants feminine clothing. Across the street at 52. Ideco with excellent reviews. Turn right on rue de Marseille. (19, rue Beaurepaire), you’ll ind fun gifts including Pantone iPhone covers, postcards and journals. On the right side you’ll quickly see 38. Agnès B. (13, Next door is 53. Liza Korn (19, rue Beaurepaire), rue de Marseille) and then 39. les Petites (11, rue de which offers clothing for women and children as Marseille), a stock store that offers discounted items. well as home and baby linens. Next door is 40. WeSC, We Are the Superlative Conspiracy (9, rue de Marseille), which has primarily Continuing along, you’ll ind gorgeous clothing for men’s clothes and is worth a look. The 41. Claudie men and women at 54. Cotélac (30, rue Beaure- Pierlot (6, rue de Marseille) stock store offers sophis- paire). Across the street is the fair-trade store 55. ticated clothing for the fashionable set. Another great Bazar Ethic (25, rue Beaurepaire). A Parisian 42. Maje (4, rue de Marseille), stock-store ind is chain store, 56. The Kooples (32, rue Beaure- which carries items designed by the much-loved 26 Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. 27

 28 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

1. Carrefour de L’Odeon – starting point 2. 5 Carrefour de L’Odeon – Le Comptoir du Relais 2b. 4-6-8 Cour de Commerce – Un Dimanche à Paris 3. 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie – Le Procope 4. 41 rue St. Andre des Arts – Allard

5. St. Severin Church 6. St. Julien le Pauvre 7. 56 rue Galande – Aux Trois Mailletz 8. 50 & 52 rue Galande – Le Chat Huant 9. 14 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – the Tea Caddy

10. 4 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – Hotel Esmeralda 11. 37 rue de la Bucherie – Shakespeare and Co. 12. 21 Quai Montebello – Café Panis 13. Eglise Notre Dame 14. Square de Ile de France - Memorial des Martyrs

2  2 29 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

15. 55 Quai de Bourbon – Brasserie de l’Île St. Louis 16. 31 rue St. Louis-en-L’ile – Berthillon Ice Cream

3  3 30 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

This tour takes between 2 and 4 hours vards we now see on the right bank. depending on how long you linger. Note the 4. Bistro Allard at 41 St. André-des- Arts (01 43 26 48 23) which is a classic bistro Begin at the 1. Carrefour de l’Odéon near and worth remembering for dinner. They are fa- Blvd St. Germain. Near the metro stop Odeon. No- mous for their whole duck covered in olives. It’s tice the statue of Georges Danton, an early leading a very friendly place though a bit touristy. Con- figure in the French Revolution. tinue along St. André until you reach Blvd Saint- Michel and cross over, zigzagging a bit as you You might want to start with lunch at 2. Le enter the 5th Arrondissement and continue on Comptoir du Relais, at 5 Carrefour de rue St. Séverin all the way through to rue St. l’Odeon (01 44 27 07 97) which is a café by day Jacques. where no reservations are required for lunch, and a fancier bistro by night, when reservations are a The 5. Church St. Séverin is worth noting for it must. Head north towards the Seine crossing the is a very old gothic example and its organ is quite Blvd. St. Germain but do not go up rue de l'An- famous — duck in for a look. cienne Comédie. Continue a bit further along The church began construction in the 11th century, Blvd. St. Germain to the right, heading east, and but most of what you’ll see dates from the 15th cen- take a left very quickly on Cour du Commerce . tury. Cross over rue St. Jacques and pick up the This is a lovely little back way stroll. angled rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre to see what is often thought of as the oldest church in Paris, 2b. Un Dimanche à Paris, 4-6-8 Cour de dating back to the 12th century. 6. Église St. Commerce, which you'll notice on your right is a Julien-le-Pauvre. Here they frequently have new chocolate store, actually it's more a choco- music performances such as Vivaldi’s Four Sea- late experience. Not only do they sell chocolates, sons or the Ave Maria, which we highly recom- pastries and wonderful edible gifts, they have a mend. Look for the schedules posted around chocolate lounge with chocolate inspired cocktails town and near the church itself. They also have and a chocolate focused restaurant, no joke! This these performances at Sainte-Chapelle, Église chocolate wonderland exists thanks to the imagi- St. Germain and other notable churches. nation of Pierre Cluizel, whose family has been making chocolate since 1948. Across the street, if you are here at night, there is a funky little café called 7. Aux Trois Mail- Notice the historic 3. Restaurant Le Pro- letz 56 rue Galande at the corner of rue St. cope 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie on your left Julien-le-Pauvre and Galande (01 43 54 00 79) where Benjamin Franklin dined. (We don’t recom- complete with a bad Edith Piaf imitator singing in mend the restaurant, as it is too touristy for our the back. The basement has a café and more tastes.) There is also a cute toy store further jazz. If you are in the mood for kitsch, have a down on the left. This passageway will lead you couple of glasses here. to rue St. André-des-Arts — turn right here. This is a fun day or evening stroll. There are some Also on rue Galande, there is a special little cute shops along St. André-des-Arts but nothing Japanese store called 8. Le Chat Huant, 50 terribly chic or original. The area is enchanting as & 52 rue Galande (01 46 33 67 56). We have this is actually what Paris looked like before the found some charming tea cups in there and other architect Haussmann tore down these small goodies from Asia that are finely crafted. Heading neighborhoods in order to make the wide boule- 2  31 4 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

back up rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre towards the Seine After your literary exposure, you’ll be ready for there is a darling tea salon called 9. the Tea spirituality! Go across on the pedestrian bridge Caddy that has been at number 14 rue St Julien- (on the weekends this bridge turns into a roller- le-Pauvre since 1928. blading and skateboarding stage) to 13. Notre Dame. Stand in line to see this monumental At 4 rue St. Julien-le-Pauvre you’ll find the 10. Gothic beauty even if you have seen it before — Hôtel Esmeralda immortalized in the children’s we try to go in each time we are in Paris. It is sim- book Linnea in Monet’s Garden (01 43 54 19 20). ply amazing that this church is nearly 850 years Take a quick look inside — it’s about as old Paris old. If you haven’t done it, circle around to the bohemian chic as you can get as well as a real side and stand in line to climb to the top, there’s bargain. We understand that apartment 3 is par- a great view from the roof. ticularly charming. Then walk around to the back of Notre-Dame on Continue along towards the Seine to the Quai de the Seine side through the lovely gardens and Montebello — turn left on rue de la Bûcherie. Here take a much needed rest in the back garden, you’ll find our favorite bookshop in Paris and one of which is often very quiet even when Notre-Dame the most unusual bookshops in the world, called is swamped. The back of Notre-Dame is just as 11. Shakespeare and Co. at 37 rue de la impressive as the façade with its famed flying but- Bûcherie (01 43 25 40 93). There are a number of tresses and gargoyles. Further behind Notre books written about it but our favorite is Time Was Dame is a serene and moving monument that is a Soft There by Jeremy Mercer. George Whitman, an bit hard to find. It’s at the very tip of Île de la Cité American now in his 90s, began the bookshop in and is called the 14. Mémorial des Martyrs 1951 and everybody — and we mean everybody de la Déportation. This is a memorial to the — has done readings here. They still have poetry 200,000 Jewish people and others who were de- and other readings on Monday nights at 7pm. ported from France during the German occupation Check the website for details. Take a long look of the 1940’s and sent off to Nazi concentration around this place and you’ll find many surprises. camps. George has let struggling writers stay here over the years and you’ll see evidence — note the small Pick up your mood by crossing over the bridge to beds placed here and there. The place is open until Île Saint-Louis and try the 15. Brasserie de 11pm and you’ll undoubtedly meet some interesting l'Île St. Louis at 55 Quai de Bourbon (01 43 54 folks here. George’s daughter now runs the shop 02 59). This is a perfect stop for a pint of frosty cold but his motto remains on the wall on the 2nd floor beer and some French fries or choucroute (the fa- — “Be not inhospitable to strangers lest they be mous Alsatian dish of potatoes, wieners and sauer- angels in disguise.” This place harkens back to a kraut). A drink on the terrace in fine weather is just lost time that somehow manages to live on strongly what the doctor ordered. Or, stroll further down the here in this tiny shop across from Notre Dame. rue St. Louis-en l’Île and sample some of the famous 16. Berthillon Ice Cream at 31 rue St. If you need a quick coffee, stop in at 12. Café -Louis-en-l’Île (01 43 54 31 61.) Panis, 21 Quai de Montebello (01 43 54 19 71) where all the Shakespeare & Co staff go for drinks Continue down the rue St. Louis-en-l’Île until the or tea. Café Panis is just outside the bookshop to end and cross over to the right bank onto Blvd your right, about half a block down the street past Henri IV and continue on into the Marais or go the park.

3  5 32 Stroll from St. Germain to Notre Dame (6th - 5th) cont’d

back to your hotel or apartment for a much de- served rest, you’ll be near Metro Sully-Morland.

Points of Interest Addresses 1. Carrefour de L’Odeon – starting point. 2. 5 Carrefour de L’Odeon – Le Comptoir du Relais 2b. 4-6-8 Cour de Commerce – Un Dimanche à Paris 1. 13 rue de l’Ancienne Comedie – Le Procope 2. 41 rue St. Andre des Arts – Allard 3. St. Severin Church 4. St. Julien le Pauvre 5. 56 rue Galande – Aux Trois Mailletz 6. 50 & 52 rue Galande – Le Chat Huant 7. 14 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – the Tea Caddy 8. 4 rue St. Julien le Pauvre – Hotel Esmeralda 9. 37 rue de la Bucherie – Shakespeare and Co. 10. 21 Quai Montebello – Café Panis 11. Eglise Notre Dame 12. Square de Ile de France - Memorial des Martyrs 13. 55 Quai de Bourbon – Brasserie de l’Île St. Louis 14. 31 rue St. Louis-en-L’ile – Berthillon Ice Cream

4  33 Latin Quarter Stroll

34 Latin Quarter Stroll

1. Shakespeare and Company, 37, rue de la Bûcherie, start 2. Eglise St.-Julien-le-Pauvre, rue St.-Julien-le- Pauvre 3. Eglise St.-Séverin, 3, rue des Prêtres-St.-Séverin

4. Musée national du Moyen Age, 6, Place Paul Painlevé 5. La Sorbonne

6. Panthéon, Place du Panthéon 7. Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont, Place Ste.- Geneviève

35 Latin Quarter Stroll

8. Musée de la préfecture de police, 4, rue de la Montagne-Ste.-Geneviève 9. Place Maubert 10. Eric Kayser, 14, rue Monge 11. Eglise St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet, 23, rue des Bernardins

12. Hemingway’s House, 74, rue du Cardinal Lemoine 13. Rue Mouffetard 14. Les Arènes de Lutèce, 49, rue Monge

15. La Grande Mosquée de Paris, 2 bis, Place du Puits de l'Ermite 16. Jardin des Plantes, Muséum national d'histoire naturelle, La Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, 36, rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire

36 Latin Quarter Stroll

17. Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la sculpture en plein air), quai St.- Bernard 18. Institut du Monde Arabe, Le Zyriab, 1, rue des Fossés-St.- Bernard 19. La Tour d’Argent, 15, quai de la Tournelle

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Shakespeare and Company, 37, rue de la Bûcherie 2. Eglise St.-Julien-le-Pauvre, rue St.-Julien-le-Pauvre 3. Eglise St.-Séverin, 3, rue des Prêtres-St.-Séverin 4. Musée national du Moyen Age, 6, Place Paul Painlevé 5. La Sorbonne 6. Panthéon, Place du Panthéon 7. Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont, Place Ste.-Geneviève 8. Musée de la préfecture de police, 4, rue de la Montagne-Ste.- Geneviève 9. Place Maubert 10. Eric Kayser, 14, rue Monge 11. Eglise St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet, 23, rue des Bernardins 12. Hemingway’s House, 74, rue du Cardinal Lemoine 13. Rue Mouffetard 14. Les Arènes de Lutèce, 47, rue Monge 15. La Grande Mosquée de Paris, 2, Place du Puits-de-l'Ermite 16. Jardin des Plantes, Muséum national d’histoire naturelle, La Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, 36, rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire 17. Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la sculpture en plein air), quai St.- Bernard 18. Institut du Monde Arabe, Le Zyriab, 1, rue des Fossés-St.-Bernard 19. La Tour d’Argent, 15, quai de la Tournelle

37 Latin Quarter Stroll

This tour can be done in two half-day right corner and enter 2. Eglise St.-Julien-le- sessions, or the hearty traveler can take an Pauvre on your left. It’s said that parts of entire day to visit the sights of the Latin the church date as far back as the 6th Quarter. century, but most of it is a mix of Roman and Gothic influences from the 11th and Welcome to the 5th Arrondissement, also 12th centuries. It became a Greek Orthodox known as the Latin Quarter because of the church in the late 1800s because there large number of international students who were so many other Catholic churches spoke Latin in the area starting as far back nearby, including the one you will be as the mid-12th century. visiting next.

Begin at 1. Shakespeare and Company, at Turn left out of the church and cross rue du 37, rue de la Bûcherie, just off the quai de Petit Pont ahead, and you’ll be looking at Montebello and rue St.-Jacques. The closest the side of 3. Eglise St.-Séverin. Note the metro stop is St.-Michel. Shakespeare and expressive gargoyles hanging off the side of Company is a unique bookstore and a the building, and then walk around to the favorite for any literary lover. It was front of the church and admire the flames founded by George Whitman, an American above, which lend credence to its resting in Paris after World War II and architectural style, Flamboyant Gothic. brushing up on his French at the Sorbonne. Compare the 16th-century stained glass in The books he accumulated while studying the back of the church with the newer 19th- warranted the opening of the store, where and 20th-century designs in the front. Exit many notable writers passed through to at the back left and turn right onto St.- read, write or take a bed during tough Jacques, right onto St.-Germain and left into times. The store still encourages new and the Square de Cluny. established scribes to share their work during regularly scheduled readings. Walk to the far left and admire the gardens and the medicinal plants scattered After perusing the many books, exit the throughout. Follow the signs around to the store and turn right, into the adjacent park right for the 4. Musée national du Moyen at Square René Viviani. Spin around for a Age, inside of which you’ll find medieval art, fabulous view of Notre Dame, and then find stained glass, gothic sculpture and the a leaning tree in the back right corner. museum’s most prized possession, a You’re now looking at what is believed to collection of 15th-century tapestries called be the oldest tree in Paris, planted in 1602. "The Lady and the Unicorn.” Continue past the tree to the gate in the

38 Latin Quarter Stroll

Exiting the museum, step into the small reach the museum on the second floor, but garden across the street and you’ll be you will be rewarded with something other looking at one of the buildings of the 5. than your typical art and sculpture Sorbonne. It was founded in 1257, making collections. While most information is in it one of the first universities in the world, French, you can grab an English brochure to and now has 18 locations. Entrance to the read about the crimes and descriptions of school is only possible with a student or serial killers. You’ll also see an assortment staff ID, but anyone can apply for of murder weapons, such as a guillotine, enrollment. hammers, ice picks and pistols.

Turn left onto rue des Ecoles, and then right Outside on the corner, you’ll find the 9. onto rue St.-Jacques. Climb the hill and Place Maubert, and if you time your visit make a right onto rue Soufflot, and you’ll be for a Tuesday, Thursday or Saturday staring at the 6. Panthéon. Honestly, it’s no morning, you’ll be in for a gastronomical St. Peter’s, but you can tour the Panthéon treat, thanks to a farmer’s market selling to see where some of the French greats the best of the season. Grab some fresh were buried, like Victor Hugo, Marie Curie fruit, a strong, French cheese and some and Voltaire. Or go to the roof for expansive charcuterie for a spontaneous outdoor views of Paris. picnic. Fromagerie Laurent Dubois, at 47, boulevard St.-Germain, has some of the Exiting the building to the right, follow it best cheese in Paris. around to the back, and you’ll find the impressive 7. Eglise St.-Etienne-du-Mont, If it’s not a market day, there are also good the site of many pilgrimages to visit the specialty shops at the Place Maubert for patron saint of the church, who is honored sampling similar local fare. You can also for saving Paris from Attila the Hun. turn right on St.-Germain and right onto rue Completed in 1626, this Gothic church took Monge for 10. Eric Kayser. Purchase a over 125 years to create. baguette, pastry or any other bread product that catches your eye at this award-winning Turn right down the windy rue de la boulangerie. With cheese and bread, you’ll Montagne-Ste.-Geneviève and cross over be all set for a picnic in the Jardin des rue des Ecoles, and you’ll see an Plantes, which you’ll find later in this tour. institutional-looking building on your left, which houses a police station as well as the Just across the street on the corner of rue 8. Musée de la prefecture de police. You Monge and rue des Bernardins is 11. Eglise need to walk through the police station to St.-Nicolas-du-Chardonnet. This church is

39 Latin Quarter Stroll

the headquarters of the less-than- the back. Pass the playground, and exit the traditional Society of St.-Pius, which in the gate to the left onto rue des Arènes. Turn 1970s did not agree with many changes in right on rue Linné, right on rue Lacépède church laws and was to be expelled from and left onto rue de Quatrefages. the location. It never left and still remains today. It continues to believe in delivering Halfway down the block, you’ll see a the mass in Latin with the altar and priest beautiful tiled archway for the 15. Grande facing away from the congregation. Mosquée de Paris. The mosque was completed in 1926 as a sign of appreciation Continue left up rue Monge, crossing rue to the Muslim community for helping the des Ecoles, and turn right on rue du French battle the Germans in World War I. Cardinal Lemoine. Go up the hill to No. 74, There is an area for worship and study, and where you’ll see a plaque announcing the visitors can tour part of the facility and residence of 12. Ernest Hemingway. This is enjoy the café’s mint tea and North African where Hemingway lived with his first wife food. and wrote A Moveable Feast. Retrace your steps back to rue Lacépède If your legs can take you no farther, end the and cross rue Geoffroy-St.-Hilaire and enter day’s tour ahead on 13. rue Mouffetard, a the gates to the 16. Jardin des Plantes and foodie-filled street. Beware of the many the Muséum national d'histoire naturelle. tourist spots, and head down the hill where Stay to the left and you’ll dead-end into the there are a few decent spots to eat. Cabinet d’Histoire, or continue to the right to the Grande Galerie de l'Evolution, which For the diehards ready to see all of the 5th in will entertain kids and adults alike with its a day, retrace your steps back down to rue life-size animal displays. You’ll see whales, Monge and continue until you see the monkeys and birds all hanging from the simple archway for the 14. Arènes de ceiling, with elephants, dinosaurs and Lutèce. Step inside and you’ll find an old giraffes surrounding them. Want something Roman arena that once held up to 15,000 more lifelike? Step into the garden’s spectators. Built around the end of the first menagerie to interact with live animals, or century AD, it was rediscovered under simply wander the beautiful grounds and debris in 1869. While you will no longer be admire the flowers, trees and large able to catch any gladiators doing battle, collection of medicinal plants. you will find students playing sports or French men playing boules. Walk all the way Exit the opposite end of the gardens onto through to see the gardens and fountain in the Place Valhubert, crossing the few

40 Latin Quarter Stroll

streets directly in front of you until you reach the quai St.-Bernard. Turn left on the quai and take the lower path down to the water to 17. Jardin Tino Rossi (Musée de la sculpture en plein air). Wander the series of serene walkways, and just before you reach the bridge, turn left to return to street level.

The large glass 18. Institut du Monde Arabe will be in front of you. Cross the street and enter the sun-sensitive building. You can learn more about Islamic history, archaeology and arts here. Enjoy the quality bookshop on the ground floor, or go straight to the roof for panoramic views of Paris. If you want to enjoy a meal with your view, make a reservation at the Lebanese restaurant Le Zyriab, also on the roof.

If you’d prefer some French food after your long tour of the 5th Arrondissement, make a reservation at the high-end, one-starred Michelin restaurant 19. La Tour d’Argent, just down the street at 15, quai de la Tournelle. It not only offers outstanding food, but its dining room has spectacular views of Notre Dame.

Alternately, a less expensive but very romantic place to dine is Le Coupe-Chou, at 9–11, rue de Lanneau, near the Sorbonne. There’s also the newer Restaurant Sola, at 12, rue de l'Hôtel Colbert, for sublime French-Japanese fusion. All restos require reservations.

41 Louvre to Opera Walk

JardinDES des Tuileries

42 Louvre to Opera Walk

1. Louvre, rue de Rivoli 2. Café Marly, 93 rue de Rivoli 3. Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107 rue de Rivoli

4. Jardin des Tuileries, rue de Rivoli 5. Musée de L’Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries 6. Jeu de Paume, 1 place de la Concorde 7. Place de la Concorde 8. Hôtel de Crillon, 10 place de la Concorde* 9. WH Smith, 248 rue de Rivoli 10. Pierre Hermé, 4 rue Cambon Jardin des Tuileries

11. Le Meurice, 228 rue de Rivoli 12. Angelina, 226 rue de Rivoli 13. Place Vendôme 14. Ritz, 15 Place Vendôme

43 Louvre to Opera Walk

15. Harry’s New York Bar, 5 rue Daunou 16. Palais Garnier, 1 place de l’Opera 17. Café de la Paix, 12 Boulevard des Capucines

18. Place de la Madeleine 19. Fauchon, 24 – 2 place de la Madeleine 20. Hédiard, 21 place de la Madeleine 21. Eglise de la Madeleine

44 Louvre to Opéra Walk

On this walk, you’ll get a good dose of the world. Look for interesting, frequently culture with a great selection of museums rotating exhibitions at each. to visit, including the world-famous Louvre. It won’t be possible to visit in one day all the Walk out of the museum and through the beautifully landscaped 4. Jardin des museums listed, but this approximate 3 Tuileries (rue de Rivoli). Initially a palace hour walk will give you a good overview, so garden under Catherine de Médicis, the park you can decide where you’d like to return. was later opened to the public and designed And no tour is complete without some by André Le Nôtre, the architect of the gourmet stops to enjoy the many wonderful gardens at Versailles, in the 17th century. Parisian delicacies. Grab one of the iconic green chairs and position it for a prime view of the expansive Start your day as soon as the 1. Louvre (rue gardens and some great people watching. de Rivoli ) opens, at 9 a.m., to avoid some of the crowds, but keep in mind that it’s closed If you haven’t hit museum overload yet, there on Tuesdays. You’ll never be able to see all are two more situated next to the Place de la 35,000 works of art in a day, so pick a few Concorde. The 5. Musée de l’Orangerie highlights, themes or time periods to explore. (Jardin des Tuileries) features Claude Monet’s The Louvre is one of the largest museums in water lily paintings, among other the world and dates back to the 12th century, impressionist work from the 19th and 20th when a fortress was needed to protect the centuries, including pieces by Cézanne, city from an Anglo-Norman attack. It Renoir, Picasso and Matisse. transitioned to a royal fortress and eventually into a museum in 1793. Opposite the Orangerie is the 6. Jeu de Paume (1, Place de la Concorde). Once a If you need a pick-me-up after your visit, sit tennis court, it now focuses on photography on the terrace of 2. Café Marly (93, rue de exhibitions from the 19th to 21st centuries. Rivoli) and enjoy views of I. M. Pei’s glass pyramid, but expect to pay the price for the At the end of the Tuileries, pop out onto the exceptional location and view. 7. Place de la Concorde to see Paris’s largest square and to catch a glimpse of the Arc de Next to the Louvre in the Hall Rohan’s Triomphe at the top of the Champs Elysées. In 3. Musée des Arts Décoratifs (107, rue de the middle of the Place de la Concorde, a Rivoli) are three independently operated statue of Louis XV once stood; it was replaced museums, worth a visit for a look at the role with a guillotine, which was later used for of fashion, design and decorative arts in many notable names, including Louis XVI and industry and culture. The Musée des Arts Marie Antoinette. The 75-foot-tall golden- Décoratifs features decorative arts from the topped obelisk that you now see in the middle Middle Ages to today. The Musée de la Mode of the square used to sit outside the Luxor et du Textile highlights fashion from the 16th Temple and dates back to 1550 BCE. It was century to the present, and the Musée de la given as a gift to France from the viceroy of Publicité features advertising from around Egypt in 1829. The base of the obelisk shows the complex manner in which the 230-ton object was shipped to France. The featured

45 Louvre to Opéra Walk hieroglyphics celebrate the reigns of which makes it an octagon. The Place pharaohs, Ramses II and Ramses III, and the Vendôme was initially constructed in the 18th golden top was added by the government in century, and it has seen several statues come 1998. and go over the years, including a homage to Napoleon’s military prowess made from On the western edge of the Place de la Russian and Austrian canons captured during Concorde sits the famed 8. Hôtel de Crillon the battle of Austerlitz. This, too, was (10, Place de la Concorde), once an opulent destroyed and re-created and stands in the home to the Count of Crillon. The first square today. The Place Vendôme is now traveler was welcomed to the hotel in 1909, home to many top-name jewelers and upscale and service has been continuous and near boutiques, in addition to the iconic 14. Ritz perfection ever since. Hotel* (15, Place Vendôme), which is worth a stop for a drink or more to enjoy the beautiful Turn onto rue de Rivoli, and soon on your left decor and people, perhaps including a few you’ll see 9. W. H. Smith (248, rue de Rivoli). celebrities. Stop in if you need any books, travel guides or *Closed for renovations until 2014. magazines written in English. Continue up rue de la Paix, and if you’re still Turn left on rue Cambon for one of the best thirsty, duck into 15. Harry’s New York Bar macarons in Paris at 10. Pierre Hermé (5, rue Daunou), to the right on rue Daunou. (4, rue Cambon). With the shop’s beautiful As the name suggests, Harry’s started in New packaging and sculpted chocolates, it will be York, where an avid patron loved the place so hard to leave without a shopping bag. much that he asked if the whole bar could be moved to Paris, and voilà. Harry’s has been in Continue down rue de Rivoli and you’ll find Paris since 1911. Choose from among the 300 the five-star hotel 11. Le Meurice (228, rue whiskies, or have one of the white-coated de Rivoli), with the three-star Michelin bartenders whip you up a New York specialty. restaurant of the same name. If your budget does not allow for a stay or a meal here, have When you arrive at the major intersection a drink inside and take a peek at the Philippe and roundabout, you’ll immediately see your Starck–designed dining area, resembling an next stop, the 16. Palais Garnier (1, Place de opulent room at Versailles. l’Opéra). Napoleon III ordered construction of this magnificent building, which was the most For something more casual but still beautiful, expensive built during the Second Empire, go next door to 12. Angelina (226, rue de and it was instantly deemed a masterpiece. Rivoli) for a rich, over-the-top hot chocolate, The chandelier in the center of the theatre and try picking just one decadent sweet to was designed by Charles Garnier himself and accompany it. There’s a reason Angelina has weighs in at seven tons with all its bronze and been around for over a century. crystal accoutrements. The brilliant multicolored mural on the ceiling was painted Turn back on rue de Rivoli and make a right in 1964 by Marc Chagall, and each scene up rue de Castiglione to the 13. Place depicts a different story from a different Vendôme, one of Paris’s most prestigious opera. If you can’t get tickets to a squares, though it actually has eight sides, performance but would like to see the inside

46 Louvre to Opéra Walk of the building, the Palais Garnier offers well- executed tours of the breathtaking venue.

Leaving the Opéra with a right onto boulevard Points of Interest Addresses des Capucines, you’ll pass the classic 17. Café de la Paix (12, boulevard des Capucines), a 1. Louvre, rue de Rivoli great stop for a pre- or post-Opéra drink or 2. Café Marly, 93, rue de Rivoli, 01 49 26 06 60 bite. With the café’s gorgeous dining room 3. Musée des Arts Décoratifs, 107, rue de Rivoli and terrace, you’ll be drinking where notables 4. Jardin des Tuileries, rue de Rivoli like Oscar Wilde and Marlene Dietrich once 5. Musée de l’Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries did. 6. Jeu de Paume, 1, Place de la Concorde 7. Place de la Concorde Enjoy some window-shopping on your way to 8. Hôtel de Crillon, 10, Place de la Concorde the 18. Place de la Madeleine, where you’ll 9. W. H. Smith, 248, rue de Rivoli find a food mecca. Head to your right and 10. Pierre Hermé, 4, rue Cambon you’ll come to the first of two separate 11. Le Meurice, 228, rue de Rivoli, 01 44 58 10 10 buildings for 19. Fauchon (24-26, Place de la 12. Angelina, 226, rue de Rivoli, 01 42 60 88 50 Madeleine). The first shop has an extensive 13. Place Vendôme seafood section, as well as a large offering of 14. Ritz, 15, Place Vendôme cheese and charcuterie, macarons, and a 15. Harry’s New York Bar, 5, rue Daunou bakery, where you can either eat your 16. Palais Garnier, 1, Place de l’Opéra delicacies or get them to go. The shop kitty- 17. Café de la Paix, 12, boulevard des Capucines, corner has a full floor of sweets and savory 01 40 07 36 36 items to pack in your suitcase as gifts for 18. Place de la Madeleine friends or yourself. There’s also a café 19. Fauchon, 24-26, Place de la Madeleine upstairs for dining, and a full floor dedicated 20. Hédiard, 21, Place de la Madeleine to wine below. 21. Eglise de la Madeleine

Continuing your loop, you’ll find 20. Hédiard (21, Place de la Madeleine) opposite Fauchon. Enjoy the selection of jams, teas, salts, fresh produce, desserts and wine. Buy something for a future picnic, or if you can’t wait, eat in the restaurant upstairs, which features the best of Hédiard’s products.

End your tour in the center of the plaza at the 21. Eglise de la Madeleine. In 1806 Napoleon gave instructions to build a “Temple of Glory” for his army. After his fall, there were delays that prevented the church from opening until 1842. Check the schedules to try and catch a concert in the traditional basilica.

47 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st)

 1 48 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

1. Rue Bonaparte and Boulevard St. Germain 2. 6 Pl. St. Germain – Café Deux Magots 3. 172 Blvd. St. Germain – Café de Flore

4. 21 Rue Bonaparte – Laduree

5. 43 Rue de Seine – La Palette 6. 60 Rue de Seine – Simone de Beauvoir’s former home

2  2 49 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

7. Pont des Arts 8. The Louvre

9. Place de la Concorde - Hotel de Crillon*

3  *Closed for renovations until 2015 3 50 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

back in the day and is still very popular with This tour takes between 1 and 3 hours tourists and Parisians alike. Continue on to- depending on how much time you spend in wards the Seine on rue de Seine stopping as the Louvre. (Can be done day or night, you like in the galleries. Take note of 6. 60 although some places are not open at night rue de Seine where Simone de Beau- of course.) voir lived. She was a brilliant French philoso- pher and feminist. Which is back down south on rue de Seine a few blocks. Begin at 1. Rue Bonaparte and Blvd St. Also notice the old photo shop near the end of rue Germain across from Église St. Germain (one of de Seine, Roger-Viollet on your left as you ap- the oldest churches in Paris and worth a look). Clos- proach the river, which has been selling photos of Paris and other places since the early 1900s. Cross est metro stop is Odeon. the street just after rue Mazarine and go through the You will be next to the über-famous 2. Deux small porthole doorway. And voilà — you are in the square which is home to the spectacular Institut Magots café at 6 Pl. St. Germain-des-Prés, which de France created in 1795 and which encom- was the favored café of Jean-Paul Sartre and passes the Beaux-Arts and the Simone de Beauvoir. Some people love to go here Académie to say they did. We prefer 3. Café de Flore, at Française among other Academies. 172 Blvd. St. Germain next door but in general both After you are done taking pictures of the Institut are overpriced and the waiters can be less than with its marvelous gold dome, cross the street friendly. walking across the 7. Pont des Arts pedestrian bridge. This is our favorite pedestrian Stroll on rue Bonaparte towards the Seine pass- bridge, which sees a lot of activity in the sum- ing Louis Vuitton on your left. Turn right on rue mer as people set up picnics with candelabras, Jacob. If you are already winded (God help you!) couscous and wine. It’s also a popular bridge you can stop into 4. Ladurée (located at 21 on New Year’s Eve where many Parisians con- rue Bonaparte) for lovely palmiers (elephant ears) gregate with their bottles of champagne be- or any other pastry and a cup of tea. This is a cause you can see the sparkling Eiffel Tower great place to buy a gift, as the boxes and pack- from here. Everyone wishes each other a aging are as delicious as the French pastries. “Bonne Année!” and if you are in Paris on New Ladurée has several other locations around Paris, Year’s, it’s a must! Enjoy the view as you pass including one on the Champs-Élysées as well as across and then enter one of the back en- another near the Madeleine. They are famous for trances to the square outside the Louvre, their macaroons. which will be right in front of you. Even at night you may go in this way. Continue along rue Jacob, which is a wonderful street chock-full of fabulous shops, antiques, and It’s fun to imagine that you’re coming home via bookstores. Turn left on rue de Seine. This street carriage to your palace after a ball, back in the is well known for its art galleries and the artist time of the Louis’. As you pass the small gar- hangout 5. La Palette at 43 rue de Seine. dens on either side and walk towards the foun- They serve breakfast and it’s always a good stop tain, imagine you’ll have to choose which of the for a drink. They have been here since 1902. As many rooms you might want to sleep in tonight. the name implies, it was frequented by painters 8. The Louvre is the largest museum in the

 42 51 Stroll from St. Germain to the Louvre (6th - 1st) cont’d

world. Construction began in the 12th century artist who is still going strong into her late 90s. on the building and it was used back then as a She had to wait until she was quite old after her palace by François the 1st as well as the Sun husband and father had both died to be noticed King, Louis XIV. It did not become a museum by the international art establishment. Enjoy the until the early 1800s. After you have marveled at Tuileries at a casual pace — stop for a crêpe at this square inside the many exterior walls of the one of the stands. You’ll end at the Place de la Louvre, walk towards the archway to your left Concorde — where Marie Antoinette had her and pause for the dramatic view of the pyra- head chopped off. Don’t worry; they don’t do mide, then proceed through this archway and that kind of thing anymore in Paris. Go for a tea enjoy the larger square of the Louvre site. You or a glass of champagne at the 9. Hôtel de can enter the museum through the pyramide, Crillon on the Place de la Concorde. This is designed by I.M. Pei and opened in 1989. There the best hotel in Paris with a fabulous gift shop. was an uproar in Paris when it first opened, but You’ll be right near the metro stop Concorde right now most Parisians feel that the pyramide is a on the place. perfect marriage of the new with the old. It is especially beautiful when seen at night — the pyramide somehow makes the entire site more exciting and alive and with its shape echoes the ancient past as well as feeling quite modern even though it is now 20 years old. There are 35,000 works of art here so do not try and do it all. Pick one small area, enjoy that and be satis- fied. After your visit, stop for a bite at Café Points of Interest Addresses Marly, which faces the pyramide and is open every day for lunch and dinner. This is the best view of the pyramide and the Louvre in Paris. 1. Rue Bonaparte and Boulevard St. Germain

If you have time and your feet aren’t aching yet — 2. 6 Pl. St. Germain – Café Deux Magots continue straight on towards the small Arc de Triomphe structure which is named the Arc de 3. 172 Blvd. St. Germain – Café de Flore Triomphe du Carrousel. [The vrai (real) Arc de 4. 21 Rue Bonaparte – Ladurée Triomphe is a very long walk away at the end of the Champs-Élysées.] Straight ahead are the Tuil- 5. 43 Rue de Seine – La Palette eries Gardens. The famous garden architect, Le 6. 60 Rue de Seine – Simone de Beauvoir’s Nôtre, planned the Tuileries. There is a carnival former home here in the summer. The sculptures in the gardens 7. Pont des Arts are lovely — not far from the Arc. Note the large piece by Louise Bourgeois, a French artist who 8. 93 Rue Rivoli – The Louvre / Café Marly now lives in New York, of a large spider eerily titled Maman (mother). This is the same sculpture you 9. 10, Place de la Concorde – Hotel de Crillon will find at the Guggenheim Bilbao in Spain & the Tate Modern in London. Bourgeois is an important

 53 52 Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

53 Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

1. La Comédie Française, Place Colette 2. Le Palais Royal, Place du Palais Royal 3. Jardin du Palais Royal, 6, rue de Montpensier 4. Verjus, 47, rue de Montpensier

5. Bibliothèque Nationale, 58, rue de Richelieu 6. Galerie Vivienne, 5, rue de la Banque 7. La Bourse, Palais Brongniart, Place de la Bourse 8. Sentier District

54 Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

9. Frenchie, 5-6, rue du Nil 10. Rue Montorgueil 11. Experimental Cocktail Club, 37, rue Saint-Sauveur 12. Pâtisserie Stohrer, 51, rue Montorgueil 13. Aux Tonneaux des Halles, 28, rue Montorgueil 14. Au Rocher de Cancale, 78, rue Montorgueil 15. L’Art Source, 6, rue Marie Stuart 16. Passage du Grand Cerf, 8, rue Dussoubs 17. Rue Saint-Denis

18. Eglise Saint-Eustache, rue du Jour 19. Forum des Halles

20. Fontaine Stravinsky 21. Centre Pompidou, rue Saint- Martin 22. Place Georges Pompidou

55 Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

On this walk, you’ll travel through parts of Exit onto rue de Montpensier and turn right, the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements as you then continue until the end of the street, meander through the royal gardens, where you’ll find a small but wonderful wine bar, 4. Verjus (47, rue de Montpensier). beautiful covered passageways, historic Enjoy a selection of seasonal small plates with churches and museums, with, of course, wines to match from a friendly and many wonderful spots at which to eat along knowledgeable American couple. Or reserve the way. Allow at least three hours to enjoy in advance for an exceptional full-course meal this tour at a leisurely pace. in the dining room upstairs.

The tour begins with Paris’s oldest theatre Exit on rue de Beaujolais and turn left onto company, the 1. Comédie Française (Place rue Vivienne and take a quick right onto rue Colette), which was founded in 1680. It des Petits Champs. Halfway down the street originally performed at the Odéon but moved on your left, you’ll see the beautiful 5. Galerie to this location, near the Palais Royal, in 1799. Vivienne (5, rue de la Banque), adjacent to Most major French actors have performed the Galerie Colbert. Walk on the gorgeous here and still do. Expect to see classics from mosaic tiles and feel yourself transported to Victor Hugo, Molière, and Shakespeare. the 1800s, when these covered passageways were built. They were designed to protect Just across rue de Richelieu is the 2. Palais well-coiffed Parisienne shoppers from both Royal (Place du Palais Royal). The building the weather and carriage debris. You’ll find was originally created in 1634 for Cardinal every Parisian delight here, including books, Richelieu and then passed through several flowers, wine, a bistro and the pièce de royal families before it fell into ill repute in résistance, a Jean Paul Gaultier shop. the 19th century, with ladies doing some unladylike things. It was eventually burned After you walk all the way through Galerie down and restored by the current occupants, Vivienne, you’ll find yourself in front of the the Ministry of Culture and the Conseil d’Etat. 6. Bibliothèque Nationale (58, rue de Walking into the courtyard, you’ll see what Richelieu). Louis XIV originally housed may appear to be out-of-place columns of manuscripts here in the 1660s when the various sizes, but these were created in 1980 Louvre couldn’t take them. As more by Daniel Buren. documents were moved here, the library needed to expand. In addition to important Walking through the courtyard, away from papers, you can also find medals, coins and the Louvre, you’ll find the 3. Jardin du Palais antiques, but the library is currently Royal (6, rue de Montpensier), providing a undergoing a major renovation, so some nice oasis in the middle of the bustling city. areas might be closed during your visit. Grab a bench and enjoy some quiet time, or dive into some upscale shopping at the arcade Continue right on rue de Richelieu until you surrounding the garden. From perfume to reach rue du Quatre Septembre, and then bags to designer clothes, you’ll find it all right turn right. Shortly on your left, you’ll see the here. 7. Bourse (Palais Brongniart, Place de la Bourse), Paris’s stock exchange. Stock trading has had many homes throughout Paris,

56 Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou including the Louvre and the Palais Royal, but beautiful enough, there are also croissants, it landed at this location in 1826. You can tour pastries, salads and Stohrer’s claim to fame, the Bourse with an advance reservation. the baba au rhum. Be sure to visit on an empty stomach. Continue down rue Réaumur. To the north of this street you’ll find the 8. Sentier district, There are many great spots to enjoy a glass of where much of the wholesale clothing wine or a bigger meal. The Montorgueil industry is based. While it’s not open to the classic 13. Aux Tonneaux des Halles public, you can still wander through and see (28, rue Montorgueil) has a wonderful duck the reams of colorful cloth, ribbons and confit, and there’s the 19th-century literary accessories. hang 14. Au Rocher de Cancale (78, rue Montorgueil). Turning left on rue des Petits Carreaux and right on to the small alley of rue du Nil, you’ll Turn down rue Marie Stuart and you can see one of Paris’s top and toughest tickets in quench your thirst for great wine and tapas at town, the restaurant 9. Frenchie (5–6, rue du 15. l’Art Source (6, rue Marie Stuart). At the Nil). A crowd starts forming outside before end of this street is the gorgeous 16. Passage 7 p.m. to find out if there are any day-of du Grand Cerf (8, rue Dussoubs). This bright cancellations. There will also be a line of passage was created in 1825 and used as a people directly opposite the restaurant, in point in the royal mail coach service. Now you front of its namesake wine bar, which is can find trendy designer and workmen’s equally as good, and where seats are on a shops selling unique and interesting personal first-come, first-served basis. and home items.

Head back to rue des Petits Carreaux and If you exit at the other end, you’ll be on make a left, following it until it turns into the 17. rue Saint-Denis. While this street’s pedestrian- and food-friendly 10. rue reputation has improved, you’ll still find Montorgueil. Enjoy all the specialty food ladies of the evening working here, as well as shops selling everything from fish to meat, other semi-seedy types around the neon-lit cheese and wine. Farther down the street, sex shops. there are some fun and funky clothing boutiques as well as interesting art and Turn right on rue Saint-Denis and move jewelry shops. quickly through the street, then make another right onto rue de Turbigo and follow it until Explore some of the side streets, like rue you dead-end at the behemoth construction Saint-Sauveur, where you can step into site that currently is les Halles. Before you 11. Experimental Cocktail Club (37, rue fully dive in, take a right on rue Rambuteau Saint-Sauveur), a hip, happening cocktail and walk until you come to the beautiful lounge, for some late-night fun. 18. Eglise Saint-Eustache (rue du Jour). Construction on the church began in 1532, Another notable stop along rue Montorgueil and it’s a mix of Gothic and Renaissance is 12. Pâtisserie Stohrer (51, rue styles. The church boasts an 8,000-pipe Montorgueil). Founded in 1730, it’s the oldest organ, and most Sundays you can catch a free pâtisserie in Paris. As if the decor wasn’t concert here.

57 Walk from the Palais Royal to the Pompidou

Points of Interest Addresses Turning back to face the beast that is the 19. Forum des Halles, you’ll have to picture 1. La Comédie Française, Place Colette it as it once was—a bustling, commercial 2. Le Palais Royal, Place du Palais Royal market selling food and produce to Paris’s big 3. Jardin du Palais Royal, 6, rue de Montpensier buyers. When the market was moved out of 4. Verjus, 47, rue de Montpensier, 01 42 97 54 40 town to ease congestion, the area never quite 5. Galerie Vivienne, 5, rue de la Banque recovered. There’s a string of chain stores in 6. Bibliothèque Nationale, 58, rue de Richelieu the massive, constructed mall, along with a 7. La Bourse, Palais Brongniart, Place de la Bourse complex web of transportation underground. 01 49 27 14 70 Most people avoid it by night, or even by day, 8. Sentier District but attempts are being made to restore the forum to a more consumer-friendly area. 9. Frenchie, 5–6, rue du Nil, 01 40 39 96 19 Time will tell, though, if this lofty goal will be 10. Rue Montorgueil achieved. 11. Experimental Cocktail Club, 37, rue Saint-Sauveur 12. Pâtisserie Stohrer, 51, rue Montorgueil After crossing through the Forum des Halles, 13. Aux Tonneaux des Halles, 28, rue Montorgueil, exit on rue Berger and turn left, walking 01 42 33 36 19 toward the Centre Georges Pompidou, but 14. Au Rocher de Cancale, 78, rue Montorgueil, before going in, admire the 20. Fontaine 01 42 33 50 29 Stravinsky behind it. The collection of playful 15. L’Art Source, 6, rue Marie Stuart, 09 82 55 00 49 water decorations sprays, squirts and 16. Passage du Grand Cerf, 8, rue Dussoubs delights those heading into the Pompidou. 17. Rue Saint-Denis 18. Eglise Saint-Eustache, rue du Jour You can see the exterior of the 21. Centre 19. Forum des Halles Pompidou (rue Saint-Martin) from many 20. Fontaine Stravinsky places throughout Paris, given its bold, bright 21. Centre Pompidou, rue Saint-Martin primary colors and “inside-out” architecture 22. Place Georges Pompidou featuring large pipes and tubes protruding from the building. The Centre Pompidou, aka Beaubourg, was designed by architects Renzo Piano, Richard Rogers and Gianfranco Franchini and is home to the largest modern- art collection in Europe. It was built in 1977 and is a unique, vast building with five stories of art and panoramic views from the top. Many notable exhibitions rotate through the temporary spaces, so check the schedule to plan your visit.

As you leave the building, join the masses in the 22. Place Georges Pompidou to watch street performers, artists and tourists enjoy the activity and sights in this bustling square.

58 Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn

59 Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn

1. Givenchy headquarters, 3, avenue George V, 8e 2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne, 8e

3. Christian Dior, 30, avenue Montaigne, 8e 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon, 8e 5. Stamp market, near avenue Gabriel, 8e

6. American Embassy, 2, avenue Gabriel, 8e 7. Maxim’s, 3, rue Royale, 8e

60 8. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme, 1er

9. Palais Royal, 1er 10. Didier Ludot boutique, Palais Royal, 1er 11. Comédie Française, 1, Place Colette, 1er

Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn

Audrey Hepburn made five films on location in Paris: was about to film Sabrina. Although the movie was shot in Funny Face (1957), Love in the Afternoon (1957), Charade Hollywood, it was Hubert de Givenchy who made the (1963), Paris When It Sizzles (1964) and How to Steal a glorious dresses that Audrey wears on her return from Million (1966). Funny Face was one of the first American cooking school in Paris. Okay, no apprentice cook who was films to be shot on location in the city and showcases the daughter of a chauffeur could really afford to dress like almost every major tourist attraction. Other films explored that, but that was 1950s Hollywood fantasy for you. some less well known areas. This walk will take you past Audrey and Givenchy hit it off from this first meeting, and locations from all five films in the chic 1st and 8th the rest is history. Arrondissements. A list of other locations easily reached Retrace your steps toward the metro entrance, and turn by metro or Vélib’ is also included for hard‐core fans. Wear left into avenue Montaigne. Cross the road to find 2. No. Givenchy. 2, avenue Montaigne. In Funny Face (1957), this is the scene of the fashion parade for which Audrey is late. The The walk starts at the Alma‐Marceau metro station. Take building is not open to the public. the exit marked Avenue Montaigne. When you emerge in the Place de l’Alma, keep the Eiffel Tower to your left, and Continue up avenue Montaigne, passing the chic Hôtel cross the road. Walk up avenue George V to 1. Givenchy Plaza‐Athénée with its red awnings on the left. No. 30 headquarters, at No. 3. avenue Montaigne, is the flagship of 3. Christian Dior. The building can be glimpsed in Paris When It Sizzles (Marlene This was the site of the first meeting between the young Dietrich is seen emerging from a white Rolls‐Royce to Audrey Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy in 1954. Audrey enter the store). 61 Enjoy the window displays of the many luxury brands The Palais Royal is the site of the cat‐and‐mouse scene at located on this street. Continue all the way to the Champs the end of Charade. Audrey is trying to figure out whether Elysées. Work your way around the Rond‐Point and enter Cary Grant or Walter Matthau is the bad guy, and the stark avenue Matignon, which is directly opposite avenue lighting highlights the colonnade and heightens the drama. Montaigne. Look for 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon. This is If you walk the length of the Galerie Montpensier, you will the supposed location of the room where William Holden pass the boutique 10. Didier Ludot. This designer has is searching for inspiration in Paris When It Sizzles. written an entire book on the subject of the little black Cross the road and enter the park. The gardens between dress (or LBD). Chanel may have created the original LBD, the Champs Elysées and Avenue Gabriel feature in both but Audrey gave it her own style in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Charade (5. the Stamp Market, which is crucial to the plot, Didier Ludot sells vintage haute couture—check to see if is located here on Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays, and there is anything by Givenchy you can try on. holidays) and How to Steal a Million (Audrey and Peter At the very end of the colonnade is 11. The Comédie O’Toole plot the big heist sitting on a bench here). Française, where the bad guy in Charade gets his The tree‐shaded avenue Gabriel passes the palace of the comeuppance. French president and ends at No. 2, or 6. The American This is a good place to end the walk or to stop for coffee or Embassy. (There are usually lots of security guards in this a drink. But if you are a diehard Audrey Hepburn fan, you area.) The embassy is featured at the beginning and end of can also explore: Charade. Walter Matthau pretends to work there, but it is 12. Le Cochon à l’Oreille, 15, rue Montmartre, 1er: this is Cary Grant who turns out to be the real diplomat. the restaurant in which Walter Matthau and Audrey You will emerge into the Place de la Concorde. Walk past have a serious talk in Charade. (Metro: Etienne Marcel) the Hôtel Crillon and turn left into rue Royale. Note the Art 13. Hotel Maxim, 28, rue Censier, 5e: Cary Grant and Nouveau exterior on your left at No. 3, rue Royale. This is Audrey spend time here in Charade (it is called the 7. Maxim’s, the chic restaurant where Eli Wallach gets Hôtel St‐Jacques in the film). Several scenes were very friendly with Audrey in How to Steal a Million. filmed in this Left Bank neighbourhood. (Metro: Maxim’s maintains a boutique as well as a restaurant, in Censier‐Daubenton) case you want a souvenir. 14. Musée Cernuschi, 7, avenue Vélasquez, 8e: this is the Continue to rue St‐Honoré, turn right, and cross the road. emptied‐out home to which Audrey returns at the Follow rue St‐Honoré (excellent window‐shopping) to No. beginning of Charade. (Metro: Monceau) 362. This is Cour Vendôme. It offers a shortcut to Place 15. Musée Jacquemart‐André, 158, boulevard Haussmann, Vendôme. When you emerge into the Place, you will see 8e: the exterior played the part of the Musée Kléber‐ the white awnings of 8. Hotel Ritz on your left at No. 15. Lafayette in How to Steal a Million; the interiors, The Ritz appears in three of Audrey’s films. The scene in however, were shot in a studio. (Metro: Miromesnil) which Audrey drives Peter O’Toole to the hotel in his 16. Palais de Chaillot, 35, avenue Raymond Poincaré, 16e: E‐type Jaguar (she is wearing a fetching combination of the Art Deco palace appears in Paris When It Sizzles. nightdress, coat and gumboots) in the middle of the night (Metro: Trocadéro) in How to Steal a Million is a classic. This is also where 17. Hotel Raphael, 17, avenue Kléber, 16e: Audrey usually Gary Cooper hangs out in Love in the Afternoon. And the stayed in this hotel while filming in Paris. (Metro: Kléber) magazine editor in Funny Face stays at the Ritz. And, of course, all those familiar sights from Funny Face: Keeping the hotel on your left, take the road leading out of the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, the Winged Victory the Place Vendôme and then turn right into rue Danielle in the Louvre, the Opéra, the Pont des Arts . . . Casanova. This street offers many places to stop for Points of interest addresses: refreshment, or you can buy a sandwich and have a picnic 1. Givenchy headquarters, 3, avenue George V, 8e later in the walk, in the gardens of the Palais Royal. 2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne, 8e Cross avenue de l’Opéra and continue along rue des Petits 3. Christian Dior, 30, avenue Montaigne, 8e Champs, which is directly opposite. Note the Passage Choiseul on the left, one of Paris’s many beautiful 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon, 8e shopping arcades. 5. Stamp market, near avenue Gabriel, 8e Turn right into rue de Richelieu. Look for Passage 6. American Embassy, 2, avenue Gabriel, 8e Beaujolais, which is just a few doors down on the left. 7. Maxim’s, 3, rue Royale, 8e Walk through and you will find yourself at the back of 8. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme, 1er 9. Palais Royal. The Palais Royal Theater is directly in front 9. Palais Royal, 1er of you. Bear left and look for the archway leading into the Palais Royal colonnade and gardens. 10. Didier Ludot boutique, Palais Royal, 1er 11. Comédie Française, 1, Place Colette, 1er 62 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille

1 1

63 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

1. Métro St. Paul – starting point 2. 16, rue Pavée – K. Jacques 3. 3, rue des Rosiers at rue Pavée – Zadig & Voltaire 4. 3, rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Théière 5. 3 bis, rue des Rosiers – Annick Goutal 6. 7, rue des Rosiers – Custo 7. 34, rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel 8. 2, rue des Hospitalières St.-Gervais – Chez Marianne

9. 47, rue des Francs Bourgeois- MUJI

10. 61, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Antoine & Lili

11. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois - L'Artisan Parfumeur

12. 56-58, rue Vieille du Temple - Paul and Joe Sister

13. 75, rue Vieille du Temple - Manoush

14. 68, rue Vieille du Temple - Jamin Puech

15. 38, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Centre Culturel Suisse

16. 43, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Barbara Bui

17. 41-43, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Les Petites

18. 33, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Comptoir des Cotonniers

19. 1-3, rue Elzevir - Adolfo Dominguez

20. 22, rue des Francs Bourgeois - BA & SH

21. 20, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Chaise Longue

2  2 64 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

22. 23, rue de Sévigné – Musée Carnavalet

23. 5, rue de Thorigny – Musée Picasso

24. 23, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Satellite

25. 8, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde

26. 32, rue de Sévigné – Vialis*

27. 17, rue de Sévigné – Capharnaüm

28. 15, rue de Sévigné – Piment Café

29. 20, rue de Sévigné – Losco

30. 14, rue de Sévigné – Eric Bompard 31. 12, rue de Sévigné – Matière Première* 32. 40, rue de Sévigné – L’Eclaireur 33. 2, Place du Marché Ste. Catherine – Au Bistrot de la Place

34. 19, rue de Turenne – Argenterie de Turenne*

35. 17, rue de Turenne – Baby Beluga

36. 16, rue de Turenne – Anna Kaszer*

37. 18, rue de Turenne – Antik Batik

38. 22, rue de Turenne – Zadig & Voltaire

39. 24, rue de Turenne – Pain de Sucre

41. 36, rue de Turenne – Café Baci

40. 49, rue de Turenne – Café des Musées

3  3 65 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

42. 112, rue Vieille du Temple – APC

43. 125, rue Vieille du Temple – Abou d’Abi Bazar

44. 22, rue Debelleyme – V & J loungewear

45. 15, rue de Poitou – Shine

46. 24, rue de Poitou – Oxyde

47. 17, rue de Poitou – Avenches* 48. 22, rue de Poitou – Swildens* 49. 24, rue de Poitou – Native Kingdom* 50. 27, rue de Poitou – Violette & Léonie

51. 21, rue de Saintonge – Erik Linz

52. 25, rue de Saintonge – Blanc d’Ivoire

53. 29–31, rue de Poitou – Hôtel du Petit Moulin 54. 33, rue de Poitou – The Collection

55. 44, rue de Poitou – L’Habilleur

56. 25, rue Charlot – Jack Henry 57. 24, rue Charlot – Samy Chalon

58. 29, rue Charlot – Pring

59. 33 and 60, rue Charlot – AB33

60. 38, rue Charlot – Sylvie Arkoun*

61. 38, rue de Bretagne – Café Charlot* 62. 37, rue de Bretagne – Café du Marché 63. 39, rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants Rouges 64. 39, rue de Bretagne (within the marché) – L’Estaminet

* Sadly these locations have closed.

4  4 66 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

est. The main entrance is around the corner on This tour will take between two and five Francs Bourgeois. hours depending on how many shops you visit. At rue des Francs Bourgeois, turn right and head toward the Place des Vosges. There are great shops in both directions; to the left you’ll see 10. Antoine & Lili, at number 51, great for bright, Begin in the Bastille at 1. Métro St. Paul, in the colorful bohemian-style frocks made famous by 4th Arrondissement. Turn up rue Pavée, walking Madonna (word has it she outfits her kids here), north. 2. K. Jacques at 16, rue Pavée, is a great as well as Zadig & Voltaire, mentioned previously. stop if you are looking for those quintessential St. To the right you’ll notice 11. L’Artisan Par- Tropez sandals that have been all the rage for the fumeur at number 34; stop to try on some last several summers. K. Jacques has been scents. making them by hand for the past 75 years. Find 3. Zadig & Voltaire on the corner of rue des Continue on to the right, heading toward the Place Rosiers and Pavée, for a young, hip yet not-too- des Vosges. If you have time for a slight detour, expensive look. To the right on Rosiers you’ll find turn up the road and follow rue Vieille du Temple one of the best tea salons in Paris at 3, rue des north for a block. Within this block you’ll find 12. Rosiers, 4. Le Loir dans la Théière, if you Paul and Joe Sister (part of the Paul and Joe need a cup of tea for fuel or a little snack. empire), which is toujours chic and totally fabulous at 56–58, rue Vieille du Temple. Plus, you’ll find To the left now, continue walking down Rosiers, the very girly-girl shop 13. Manoush on the left, taking note of this very historic street. It is one of at 75, rue Vieille du Temple. At the end of the the oldest and most historic in Paris. It was and still block, on the corner of rue Barbette (number 68), is the center of Jewish life, with very trendy bou- you’ll enjoy 14. Jamin Puech and their incredi- tiques and cafés and the countless tourists who ble and unique bags. frequent the area. Some of the buildings here date back to the 1500s and earlier. 5. Annick Goutal Turn back around and head back down to rue des is at 3 bis, rue des Rosiers (on your left), good for Francs Bourgeois and turn left, heading toward classic French perfumes with that lovely butterfly- the Place des Vosges. 15. Centre Culturel topped bottle. After that you’ll find 6. Custo, the Suisse, at 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois, is good designer from Barcelona known for fun, trendy, col- for a stop if you need some culture. Exhibitions orful shirts as well as other items for men and are free, and there is a lovely little terrace for tea women, at 7, rue des Rosiers. in good weather. Farther down rue des Francs Bourgeois, at number 43, you’ll find 16. Bar- If you are hungry and don’t want to waste time with bara Bui, which is always a fashionable outpost. a sit-down meal, stop for a falafel at 7. L’As du Pop into 17. Les Petites, at 41–43, rue des Fallafel, at 34, rue des Rosiers (closed Satur- Francs Bourgeois, for a more basic yet still very days). Turn right on rue des Hospitalières St.- fashionable look. You’ll also find 18. Comptoir Gervais for 8. Chez Marianne (if you prefer fa- des Cotonniers at number 33—a great spot lafel or meze sitting down, this is your stop). Far- for affordable, wearable everyday casual clothing. ther down this street you’ll find 9. MUJI, the Japanese home and clothing store that always has something affordable, well designed and of inter-

 2 67 5 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

Head up rue Elzevir if you’d like to stop into 19. Sévigné, has nice cashmere that isn’t terribly Adolfo Dominguez, at numbers 1–3, for afford- pricey (for cashmere, that is), and it’s well done. able, unmistakably Spanish clothing, including cute 31. Matière Première, at 12, rue de Sévi- doggie clothes (à la Paris Hilton). If you pick and gné, is one of those places where you can create choose carefully, you might find a good bargain. An- your own jewelry with beads—a perfect afternoon other worthy stop is 20. BA & SH, for midpriced, activity if you are with a teen or a creative type. slightly bohemian frocks, at 22, rue des Francs On the other end of Sévigné 32. L’Eclaireur Bourgeois. Check out 21. Chaise Longue at has recently opened a cool new outpost at num- number 20 for a bit of folly if you are looking for a ber 40— this is one of the Girls’ Guide’s favorite gift for a friend with a sense of humor. shops in Paris. There are several more throughout the city. L’Eclaireur, owned by Martine and Stop in for a break from shopping and a dose of cul- Armand Hadida, is always cutting edge, marrying ture at 22. Musée Carnavalet (23, rue de Sévi- fashion, furniture and design. Be prepared to pay gné; 01 44 59 58 58). Chronicling the history of for Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons and Paris is the purpose of Carnavalet, but its exquisite the like, but their eye is artistic, sexy and always walled garden is what you’ll remember—plus, it’s au courant. free! 23. Musée Picasso, nearby at 5, rue de Thorigny, is divine and very doable in a short time Now turn around and go back to rue de Jarente, frame (but at present is closed for renovations; south of Francs Bourgeois, just off of Sévigné. check website first). Turn left and quickly you’ll come to rue Caron, and if you turn right you’ll see the adorable Place Farther down Francs Bourgeois, 24. Satellite du Marché Ste. Catherine. You can choose one does fun, affordable costume jewelry, which may be of the cafés here for lunch. 33. Au Bistrot de a bit colorful for some, at 23, rue des Francs Bour- la Place, at number 2 on the place, is fairly geois. 25. Autour du Monde, at number 8 good for a salad or something light. (corner of Sévigné), is one of our favorite stores in town, combining home and fashion—one can al- Now coming out of the place, go back to Jarente ways find something great here. Turn right on rue de and follow it until it ends at rue de Turenne, Sévigné, where you’ll discover 26. Vialis* at where you’ll turn left. Here at number 19 you’ll number 32, with their reasonable leather walking find an old silver shop by the name of 34. Ar- shoes and heels from Spain (they are truly comfort- genterie de Turenne* — pop in if you are in able—a real necessity in Paris). the market for silver. After this shop, on the same side of the street you’ll see two darling baby shops, if you need a gift. One has no name, and 27. Capharnaüm, at 17, rue de Sévigné, is a the other, at number 17, is called 35. Baby Be- place where teens and twentysomethings will find luga, perfect for that terribly chic, hip baby in reason to splurge. 28. Piment Café is a hole-in- your life. You can find interesting canvas bags at the-wall bar that we love, at number 15, and a great 16, rue de Turenne, in 36. Anna Kaszer. And stop post-shop. 29. Losco, at 20, rue de Sévigné, then you’ll see 37. Antik Batik at number 18, is fun if you want to create your own belt. All you do the famous bohemian fashion stop and a peren- is pick out the width and the type of leather and then nial favorite. You can probably find this store at fit it to the buckle of your choice. We’ve had a lot of home, however. Then you’ll find another 38. fun in here. 30. Eric Bompard, at 14, rue de Zadig & Voltaire at 22, rue de Turenne, if you

 3 68 6 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

didn’t stop before. unique and handmade. 52. Blanc d’Ivoire, Here, turn down Francs Bourgeois again if you’d at 25, rue de Saintonge, is the perfect place to like to peek in at the oldest and loveliest square in outfit the French home, or the American one! We Paris, the Place des Vosges, turn right. Con- like their candlesticks, their silver globes and tinuing now back up Turenne, you’ll see 39. Pain their luxurious comforters. Back down on Poitou, de Sucre, which offers some nice bathing suits have a look into Christian Lacroix’s hotel, 53. and lingerie that isn’t too wild or ridiculously expen- Hôtel du Petit Moulin, at 29–31, rue de Poi- sive. If you haven’t eaten yet and you didn’t stop at tou, which is très chic and unique. Farther down, Place Catherine, you can nourish yourself now at 54. the Collection, at number 33, offers the 41. Café Baci, at 36, or 40. Café des most interesting wallpaper we’ve ever seen— , at 49, rue de Turenne. After that the sur- Musées truly worth lugging back. 55. L’Habilleur, at roundings get a bit pedestrian, but never fear, you number 44, is good if you’d like to browse a mix are hoofing it to the haute Marais, which is quieter of designers (Paul and Joe, Michel Klein) or and our favorite part. The upper Marais is filled with items with a Moroccan touch. extremely original small shops and designers. Turn left when you reach rue Debelleyme, and stay Turning right on rue Charlot, you’ll find 56. to the right as the road forks, making sure to stay Jack Henry at number 25, with spiffy English- on Debelleyme. At corner of Vieille du Temple, style clothing by an American designer. 57. you’ve got at number 112, rue Vieille du 42. APC Samy Chalon, at number 24, has colorful and Temple—pop in for perfect jeans and other must- well-designed dresses and other pieces. 58. haves. Turn right on Vieille du Temple and you’ll Pring, at 29, rue Charlot, has wildly over-the- find , at 125, rue Vieille 43. Abou d’Abi Bazar top shoes. 59. AB33, at numbers 33 and 60, is du Temple, with their simple, elegant clothing. Turn a very understated fashion outpost with an LA here on rue de Poitou. You’ll find a fabulous sleep- feel. Simple, elegant jewelry with a modern bent and loungewear store called 44. V & J lounge- can be found online at 60. Sylvie Arkoun*. wear at 22, rue Debelleyme (on the corner of Poi- Once you reach the corner of Charlot and rue de tou). Nearby 45. Shine, at 15, rue de Poitou, of- Bretagne, top off your marathon day of shopping fers a nice mix of name designers. , at 46. Oxyde with a drink at 61. Café Charlot*, 38, rue de 24, rue de Poitou, has fresh, casual style, and 47. Bretagne, or 62. Café du Marché, 37, rue Avenches*, at number 17, has very interesting de Bretagne, and watch the afternoon/evening one-of-a-kind jewelry. 48. Swildens*, at number crowd walk by. Alternatively, go into the ever- 22, is a shop specializing in a very downtown look. adorable 63. Marché des Enfants À la Carte has fabulous necklaces with vintage Rouges, which is across the street from the watches. 49. Native Kingdom* was another cafés (open late on Thursday nights), and have spectacular kidswear shop (unfortunately now a mint tea and some Moroccan sweets at one of closed). , at number 27, 50. Violette & Léonie their outdoor tables. We also love 64. L’Esta- sells killer vintage clothing, shoes and jewelry. We minet, within the marché at 39, rue de Bre- love rue de Poitou! tagne. Divine! At the end of your long shopping tour of the Marais treat yourself to a taxi back home or continue on rue Bretagne heading east, Continue down the road, turning right on rue de turn left at rue Filles du Calvaire to find the Saintonge. Here at number 21 you’ll find designer metro stop of the same name. 51. Erik Linz’s creations, which are beautiful, * Sadly these locations have closed.

 4 69 7 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

31. 40, rue de Sévigné – L’Eclaireur Points of Interest Addresses 32. 2, Place du Marché Ste. Catherine – Au Bistrot de la Place 1. Métro St. Paul – starting point 33. 19, rue de Turenne – Argenterie de Turenne 2. 16, rue Pavée – K. Jacques 34. 17, rue de Turenne – Baby Beluga* 3. 3, rue des Rosiers at rue Pavée – Zadig & Voltaire 35. 16, rue de Turenne – Anna Kaszer 4. 3, rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Théière 36. 18, rue de Turenne – Antik Batik 5. 3 bis, rue des Rosiers – Annick Goutal 37. 22, rue de Turenne – Zadig & Voltaire 6. 7, rue des Rosiers – Custo 38. 24, rue de Turenne – Pain de Sucre 7. 34, rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel 39. 49, rue de Turenne – Café des Musées 8. 2, rue des Hospitalières St.-Gervais – Chez Marianne 40. 36, rue de Turenne – Café Baci 9. 47, rue des Francs Bourgeois – MUJI 41. 112, rue Vieille du Temple – APC 10. 51, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Antoine & Lili 42. 125, rue Vieille du Temple – Abou d’Abi Bazar 11. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – L’Artisan 43. 22, rue Debelleyme – V & J loungewear Parfumeur 44. 15, rue de Poitou – Shine 12. 56–58, rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe Sister 45. 24, rue de Poitou – Oxyde 13. 75, rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush 46. 17, rue de Poitou – Avenches 14. 68, rue Vieille du Temple – Jamin Puech 47. 22, rue de Poitou – Swildens* 15. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Centre Culturel 48. 24, rue de Poitou – Native Kingdom* Suisse 49. 27, rue de Poitou – Violette & Léonie* 16. 43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Barbara Bui 50. 21, rue de Saintonge – Erik Linz 17. 41–43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Les Petites 51. 25, rue de Saintonge – Blanc d’Ivoire 18. 33, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Comptoir des Cotonniers 52. 29–31, rue de Poitou – Hôtel du Petit Moulin 19. 1–3, rue Elzevir – Adolfo Dominguez 53. 33, rue de Poitou – The Collection 20. 22, rue des Francs Bourgeois – BA & SH 54. 44, rue de Poitou – L’Habilleur 21. 20, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Chaise Longue 55. 25, rue Charlot – Jack Henry 22. 23, rue de Sévigné – Musée Carnavalet 56. 24, rue Charlot – Samy Chalon 23. 5, rue de Thorigny – Musée Picasso 57. 29, rue Charlot – Pring 24. 23, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Satellite 58. 33 and 60, rue Charlot – AB33 25. 8, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde 59. 38, rue Charlot – Sylvie Arkoun* 26. 17, rue de Sévigné – Capharnaüm* 60. 38, rue de Bretagne – Café Charlot* 27. 15, rue de Sévigné – Piment Café 61. 37, rue de Bretagne – Café du Marché* 28. 20, rue de Sévigné – Losco 62. 39, rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants Rouges 29. 14, rue de Sévigné – Eric Bompard 63. 39, rue de Bretagne (within the marché) – 30. 12, rue de Sévigné – Matière Première L’Estaminet

* Sadly these locations have closed.

5  8 70 Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris: A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement

71 1 Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris: A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement

1. Metro Jasmin, line 9 – starting point 2. 78, avenue Mozart, Jackie’s home in Paris 1949–50

3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh 4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school, 64, rue du Ranelagh

5. La Gare restaurant and bar, 19, chausée de la Muette 6. Jardin du Ranelagh, avenue du Ranelagh 7. Musée Marmottan, 2, rue Louis Boilly

72 2 Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris: A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement

8. Franck et Fils, 80, rue de Passy 9. Passy covered market, 1, rue Bois le Vent 10. Rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian market street

11. Maison de Balzac, 47, rue Raynouard 12. Rue Berton 13. Musée du Vin, 5, square Charles Dickens

14. Palais de Chaillot, 35, avenue Raymond Poincaré 15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 1, Place du Trocadéro

73 3 Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris: A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement In 1949–50, during her junior year abroad, Jacqueline Rue du Ranelagh goes all the way down to the river, Bouvier lived in this area, which is known as Passy, where it runs into—appropriately enough—the Avenue while she attended classes at the Sorbonne. She later du Président Kennedy. If you are a true‐blue Jackie fan, described this year as “the high point in my life, my you may want to follow it as far as No. 10, once the site happiest and most carefree year.” of a literary salon patronized by a friend of Jackie’s, the writer and politician André Malraux. Through her The walk takes you through some of the streets she friendship with Malraux, Jackie arranged for the Mona would have known and ends at the Palais de Chaillot, Lisa to be sent to the United States in 1963. where in 1961, during a presidential state visit, John F. Kennedy described himself to a room full of journalists Go back up rue du Ranelagh (away from the river) and as “the man who accompanied Jackie Kennedy to Paris.” turn into rue Gustave Zédé opposite the Lycée, left on The walk includes a chic shopping area that Jackie pat‐ rue du Général Aubé and right again at rue Pajou. The ronized when she was married to Aristotle Onassis, who streets are climbing uphill—this part of the city was maintained an apartment in Paris. once the site of huge mansions with gardens sloping down to the Seine. Many of the ornate buildings that The walk takes about two hours from start to finish, but now occupy this area date from the late 19th and early longer if you stop to shop, eat or visit one of the 20th centuries. museums on the route. There are many good picnic Turn left on rue des Vignes (recalling a time when spots as well as dozens of cafés and restaurants. grapevines grew here), and cross avenue Mozart. Con‐ Begin at 1. metro Jasmin. Take the rue Jasmin exit, tinue on rue Largillière, which opens into a large space which comes out in front of 2. 78, avenue Mozart. where several roads converge. To your left is 5. La Gare, Jacqueline Bouvier lived in this building when she was a a popular restaurant, built into a former station on the student at the Sorbonne, 1949–50. She lodged with the railway known as La Petite Ceinture (the little belt), a widowed Comtesse de Renty and her family in a large line that once ran around the circumference of the city apartment, with several other students. There was no (www.restaurantlagare.com). central heating, and the eight occupants of the If you turn left as you come out of La Gare and walk apartment shared a single bathroom. During the winter, down Chausée de la Muette, you will enter Jackie slept with her coat over her for warmth. 6. Jardin du Ranelagh. In the 18th century, public balls Walk up avenue Mozart, keeping No. 78 on your left. were held here and Parisians from all walks of life came Cross the road and turn right into rue de l’Assomption to dance. If you have children with you, the garden of‐ (Napoleon and Josephine once lived on this street) and fers a range of amusements and places to play, and you then left into rue Davioud, a narrow, cobbled road. Turn will get no further. right into rue du Ranelagh. If you continue on the same road to the other side of On your right you will see 3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du the gardens and cross avenue Raphaël, you will see Ranelagh, where actresses Charlotte Gainsbourg and 7. Musée Marmottan (www.marmottan.com) at Marion Cotillard attended school, and where Simone de 2, rue Louis Boilly. It is devoted to Impressionist art. Beauvoir taught until she was fired in 1939 for having When Jackie lived in the 16th, this was a museum of an affair with a female student. Second Empire decorative arts. Its focus changed in Opposite the school at No. 64, rue du Ranelagh, is 1957, with a donation of Impressionist masterpieces, a 4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school. Ducasse, born in focus consolidated with a further donation of Monet’s 1956, was not a contemporary of Jackie’s, but his style of art by his son in 1966. If you are an art lover, you may using fresh, seasonal products is the same as that of René want to visit the museum. Verdon, whom Jackie hired as White House chef in 1961. But if you want to do some serious shopping, continue (She was the first presidential wife to hire a professional the walk. Cross the road directly in front of La Gare and chef, and she conducted Verdon’s interview in French.) take Chaussée de la Muette, which becomes rue de Passy, Ducasse’s school is on the ground floor at the back and the main shopping street of the Passy area. Look for the has a small boutique. Courses are open to all, and gift yellow signs on the left at No. 80. This is 8. Franck et Fils certificates are available. Instruction is in French, but a (www.francketfils.fr). The store opened at this location in translator can be arranged if you give the school advance 1937. Today, it’s a scaled‐down version of Le Bon Marché notice (www.ecolecuisine‐alainducasse.com/). (both stores are owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis 74 4 Vuitton). There are three floors of fashion and a pleasant tion. If you are feeling energetic, take the stairs that café on the top floor. Not only did Jackie shop here lead up to the left before the bridge. If you are tired, occasionally, but the store features the fashion line known walk under the bridge and, voilà, there is an escalator to as Paule Ka, whose designer takes his inspiration from take you up the hill. This takes you to rue de l’Alboni. Jackie (as well as Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly). Walk up to the traffic circle and turn right into the tree‐ Rue de Passy features boutiques from many of the ma‐ shaded boulevard Delessert. Notice the old walls on the jor fashion brands. Look for the elements of Jackie’s left, with filled‐in arches. classic style: either the pearls and the boxy suits of the Where boulevard Delessert and rue le Nôtre meet, you White House years or the oversized sunglasses, slim will see the gardens of 14. Palais de Chaillot, the site of white pants and dark skinny tops of the Jackie O years. John F. Kennedy’s speech in 1961. You can take the At Place de Passy, the road opens into a little area with steps on the left, which lead to a path that comes out trees. Turn right and you will see 9. Passy covered mar‐ near a statue of Benjamin Franklin, or you can just walk ket, at 1, rue Bois le Vent (foodies take note: the chefs into the gardens and head uphill to the main building at the Ducasse school shop here), and 10. rue de with its museums and restaurants. l’Annonciation pedestrian street market. 15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine Take the rue de l’Annonciation, which is closed to cars (http://www.citechaillot.fr/) has an excellent café with and has many open‐air cafés. On the left is the Passy a splendid view of the Eiffel Tower. Rest your feet and Plaza (where you can buy food for a picnic) and a little toast the memory of Jackie. church. Continue to rue Raynouard. Turn right into this Points of interest addresses: street and at No. 47 you will see the entrance to 11. 1. Begin at metro Jasmin, line 9. Maison de Balzac (www.paris.org/Musees/Balzac/). 2. 78, avenue Mozart, Jackie’s home in Paris, 1949–50 Honoré de Balzac lived here in the 1840s. The gardens 3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh are open to all, and this is a good picnic spot. 4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school, 64, rue du Ranelagh Balzac’s house reminds us that Jackie earned her degree in French literature (her favorite writer, however, was Bau‐ 5. La Gare restaurant and bar, 19, chausée de la delaire). She may have read Balzac’s “Treatise on Elegant Muette Living,” in which he says, “Anyone who does not visit Paris 6. Jardin du Ranelagh, avenue du Ranelagh frequently will never be completely elegant.” Words to live 7. Musée Marmottan, 2, rue Louis Boilly by, and it seems that Jackie did live by them! 8. Franck et Fils, 80, rue de Passy Continue past Balzac’s house on rue Raynouard, and 9. Passy covered market, 1, rue Bois le Vent look for the steps going down on the left. Take them 10. Rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian market street and turn left into 12. rue Berton. This charming cobbled 11. Maison de Balzac, 47, rue Raynouard street feels like a country road in the middle of the city. 12. Rue Berton As you go on, it gets narrower and narrower, until it opens into rue Marcel Proust. 13. Musée du Vin, 5, square Charles Dickens Bear left. Take the stairs down on the right into another 14. Palais de Chaillot, 35, Avenue Raymond Poincaré garden. From the bottom of the stairs, the exit is to the 15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 1, Place left, through a large square archway. Walk straight Trocadéro through and cross the road into Impasse Marie de Ré‐ gnier. The gate through the traffic barrier at the end of If you want to do more shopping, Jackie‐style, go to the th the street takes you into rue Charles Dickens. Walk to 8 Arrondissement (metro Franklin Roosevelt on line 1) the end and turn left, where you will see 13. Musée du and visit: Vin (Museum of Wine, www.museeduvinparis.com/en). Chanel, 42, avenue Montaigne: Chanel was the inventor In addition to the museum, there is a boutique and a of the little boxy suits Jackie favored as First Lady and restaurant, in a series of low, arched caves. The muse‐ one of Jackie’s favorite designers. um is educational, but the restaurant food is good. D. Porthault, 50, avenue Montaigne: Jackie bought the Whether or not you visit the museum depends on your linens for the White House here. answer to the question: Do you want to understand Givenchy, 3, avenue George V: Givenchy supplied the wine, or simply experience it? evening gown Jackie wore at Versailles in 1961. Directly in front of the museum is rue des Eaux. Walk Emilio Pucci, 36, avenue Montaigne: Pucci was one of down it and turn left into Square Alboni. Overhead is her favorite designers during the Jackie O years. the bridge that brings trains into the Passy metro sta‐ 75 5 Stroll along the Rue du Cherche-Midi

 1 76 Stroll along the Rue du Cherche-Midi cont’d

1. 22 Cherche-Midi – Le Cherche Midi 2. 50 Cherche-Midi – Au Nom de la Rose 3. 51 Cherche-Midi – Nemrod Café

4. 57 Cherche-Midi – Autour du Monde 5. 66 Cherche-Midi – Mamie Gateaux (for cakes and tea) 6. 67 Cherche-Midi – M.A. Dauliac Antique

7. 104 Cherche-Midi – Le Bistrot Landais 8. 24 rue Mayet – Tea and Tattered Pages 9. 17 rue Mayet – Hammam Pacha 10. 4 rue Mayet – Maison de Fanfan

2  2 77 Stroll along the Rue du Cherche-Midi cont’d

Tattered Pages (01 40 65 94 35) where you A good street for an hour-long shop-and- can pick up a cheap read and enjoy a cup of stroll, or longer. tea.

In the same area you’ll find the newly finished 9. Hammam Pacha at 17 rue Mayet (01 43 Start at rue Cherche Midi and rue Dupin. The 06 55 55). Mayet is a street off rue du Cher- closest metro stop is Rennes on the corner of che-Midi just before you reach Blvd Montpar- Blvd Raspail and Rennes. Walk north on Raspail nasse. Why not book an afternoon to relax in and turn left on Cherche Midi until you get to rue the sauna, ending in a four-hand massage? Dupin. Its worth noting that if you turn right on Cherche Midi you’ll come to 1. Le Cherche Also on the same street you’ll find 10. Maison Midi at number 22 (01 45 48 27 44). It has the de Fanfan, which is a very good consignment most delicious antipasto we’ve ever had outside shop specializing in smaller sizes. Near the tea of Italy, but reservations must be made in ad- salon there are several different stores all under vance, so come back another day once you re- the banner Chercheminippes, each specializing serve. One of the Girls’ Guide’s favorite Italian in consignment clothing for men, women and restaurants is on this street, the eponymously children, all located on rue du Cherche-Midi. named 2. Au Nom de la Rose at 50 is worth See if you can find a deal. noticing even though it’s a chain. It’s a unique flower shop selling only roses. Consider this Follow Mayet to the end, turn left on rue de your welcome to the beautiful rue Cherche Sèvres and follow for a long block until you get Midi. All addresses are on Cherche-Midi except to the Duroc metro stop. where noted.

3. The Nemrod Café at 51 is a typical Pari- sian brasserie for a bite or a coffee. 4. Autour Points of Interest Addresses du Monde, a chain with shops all over Paris, has an outpost at 57 selling wearable, reasona- 1. 22 Cherche-Midi – Le Cherche Midi bly priced stylish clothing. 2. 50 Cherche-Midi – Au Nom de la Rose 5. Mamie Gâteaux at 66 rue du Cherche- Midi is a charming tea salon plus they have a 3. 51 Cherche-Midi – Nemrod Café boutique and a brocante (antiques) shop! 4. 57 Cherche-Midi – Autour du Monde

6. M.A. Dauliac at 67 is good for antiques 5. 66 Cherche-Midi – Mamie Gateaux and vintage art as well as art deco objects. Now (for cakes and tea) take a good stroll down the rue until you reach 6. 67 Cherche-Midi – M.A. Dauliac Antique until you reach the cross street rue St. Romain. Note 7. Le Bistrot Landais at 104 rue du 7. 104 Cherche-Midi – Le Bistrot Landais Cherche-Midi (01 42 22 66 23) is a good place 8. 24 rue Mayet – Tea and Tattered Pages to duck in for some hearty Landais food, think duck, foie gras and pâté. Further down after a 9. 17 rue Mayet – Hammam Pacha couple of blocks, turn right on rue Mayet, at 24, 10. 4 rue Mayet – Maison de Fanfan is the used English bookshop 8. Tea and

 23 78 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th

 1 79 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

1. 145 rue St. Dominique – Comptoirs Richard 2. 120 rue St. Dominique – Grégory Renard’s 3. 129 rue St. Dominique – Le Fontaine de Mars 3b. 139 rue St. Dominique –Café Constant 4. 135 rue St. Dominique – Les Cocottes 5. 108 rue St. Dominique – L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest 6. 114 rue St. Dominique – 7 Famille 7. Corner of St. Dominique and rue Sedillot – a pharmacy

8. 115 rue St. Dominique – Les Petites 9. 92 rue St. Dominique – St. Pierre du Gros Caillou 10. Rue Cler market street (see also stop #32)

11. 108 rue St. Dominique – Venise Collection

12. 106 rue St. Dominique – Jacadi 13. 37 rue Malar – Truffes Folies & Lucie St. Claire 14. 99 rue St. Dominique – Bar du Central

15. 78 rue St. Dominique – Gerard Darel* 16. 78 rue St. Dominique – Comptoir dse Cotonniers 17. 91 rue St. Dominique – Bérénice

 2 80 2 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

18. 89 rue St. Dominique - Kooples 19. 74 rue St. Dominique – Lemoine 20. 22 rue Jean-Nicot – Eric Chauvin 21. 20 rue Jean-Nicot – Stéphane Secco 22. 18 rue Jean-Nicot – Bellota-Bellota 23. 68 rue St. Dominique – Karl Marc 24. 81 rue St. Dominique – The Tome Dom 25. 81 rue St. Dominique – BA&SH 26. 10 rue de la Cométe - Bonsaï Rémy Samson 27. 21 bis, rue Amélie – Catherine Loiret 28. 20 bis, rue Amélie – Mayaro 29. 17 bis, rue Amélie – 7 Eiffel 30. 151 rue de Grenelle – exquisite door handles

31. 155 rue de Grenelle – Numaé 32. Rue Cler market street (see also stop #10) 33. 186 rue de Grenelle – Petit Bateau 34. 194 rue de Grenelle – The Real McCoy 35. 43 avenue Bosquet – La Palferine 36. 29 avenue Rapp – gorgeous Art Nouveau building 37. 22 avenue Rapp - Sancerre

 3 81 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

Across from Les Cocottes at No. 108 is 5. This stroll can be done in just one hour or L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest, which would be a more depending on how much you stop. good place to stop if you have a rugby fan in the family. 6. 7 Famille, at 114, rue St.-Dominique Begin at rue St.-Dominique where it inter- (01 45 51 73 25), is a small shop that has some sects with avenue de la Bourdonnais and nice gifts, particularly for teenage girls, and a few avenue Rapp several blocks up from the pieces of clothing. We like its selection of metro stop École Militaire. Go over the Swildens tees. tour first, before you set out, and think about reserving ahead for lunch or dinner 7. The pharmacy near the corner of St.- at one of the many fine restaurants we Dominique and rue Sedillot is a good place to suggest. This is a wonderful afternoon stock up on Darphin creams or La Roche-Posay tour after seeing the Eiffel Tower in the sunscreen. 8. Les Petites, at 115, rue St.- morning. Dominique, is wonderful for colorful prints and cashmeres. Note the 9. St. Pierre du Gros Caillou church, at No. 92, which was built in the Rue St. Dominique 1800s, and whose chapel was built in the 1700s. Not particularly old by Parisian standards, but a 1. Comptoirs Richard at 145 rue St. Domi- charming neighborhood church nonetheless. Not nique (01 53 59 99 18) is a well stocked tea and usually open to the public. coffee store where you can find some nice gifts such as Eiffel Tower espresso cups, colored sugars You can turn down rue Cler and head south if you and Paris cardboard keepsake boxes (there are wish, walking a block to get to the 10. Rue Cler several other locations in Paris). market street, or wait until later so you can pick up some fresh picnic ingredients or appetiz- 2. Grégory Renard’s shop, at 120, rue St.- ers on the way home. 11. Venise Collection, Dominique, is worth a stop for world-class artisanal at No. 109, rue St. Dominique, is a shoe store that chocolates and macarons. sells a well-selected assortment of heels and flats by Sonia Rykiel, Givenchy and Chloe. 12. Rue St. Dominique has one of our favorite bistros in Jacadi, the renowned children’s fashion store, is Paris, at 129 rue St. 3. La Fontaine de Mars at No. 107. 13. Truffes Folies is an épicerie Dominique (01 47 05 46 44). This is the classic red- and restaurant located just off rue St.-Dominique tableclothed bistro serving a good Confit de Canard at 37, rue Malar (01 44 18 05 41). If you are a truf- (crispy duck leg) and boasting friendly service. Out fle fan, this is an essential stop. of certain windows here you can see the Eiffel Tower sparkle at night. President Obama has dined 14. Bar du Central, at 99, rue St.-Dominique, here. is a good place stop for un verre or a coffee.

In general, Chef Christian Constant owns this area, 15. Gerard Darel, at No. 78, is a solid French boasting not 1 but 4 restaurants. We like the more brand with fashionable finds often available in lar- relaxed 3b. Café Constant at 139 rue St. Domi- ger sizes, which is completely abnormal in Paris. nique (01 47 53 73 34) or 4. Les Cocottes at A favorite of Susan Sarandon and Meryl Streep 135 rue St. Dominique (no reservations required at since 1973. Les Cocottes).

 42 82 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

One of our favorite stores in Paris is at 78 rue St. Note the beautiful Beaux Arts and Art Nouveau Dominique, 16. Comptoir des Cotonniers, architecture of some of the buildings on rue de for affordable chic Parisian looks. The always chic Grenelle as you enter this street and make a 17. Bérénice, at number 91, is a fashion find. right. 18. Kooples is a trendy brand at 89, rue St.- Dominique, where you can find younger Take your first right off rue de Grenelle and turn “downtown” looks often in black, white or gray. 19. right back up rue Amélie to check out the hand- Lemoine, at No. 74, is a cute little chocolate, nou- made-leather purse store, 27. Catherine gat and macaron shop, in case you haven’t in- Loiret, at 21 bis, rue Amélie. These ingenious dulged yet. It’s known for its cannelés, which are designs are right for any fashion maven (09 53 tiny cakes from the Bordeaux region. 65 10 40). As long as you are on rue Amélie, you might want to pop into No. 20, 28. Ma- Now, turn up rue Jean Nicot for several special yaro, which has some interesting items for the stores. At 22 rue Jean-Nicot (01 45 50 43 54), French home. On this same street is a new, very you’ll find one of the great florists in a town full of modern hotel, which has reasonable rates be- florists, 20. Eric Chauvin. Next door, 21. Sté- ginning at 165 euros, for your return trip to Paris: phane Secco, whose pain au chocolat was 29. 7 Eiffel, at 17 bis, rue Amélie (01 45 55 10 voted the best in Paris, can be found at 20 rue 01). Jean-Nicot (01 43 17 35 20). The shop is worth a look even if you aren’t hungry. Return to rue de Grenelle and turn right. Notice the 30. exquisite door handles at No. 22. Bellota-Bellota, at 18, rue Jean Nicot, is 151, from the Art Nouveau era. The corn-and- jamón (ham) heaven and a sublime little Spanish lizard handles warrant a photo. Continue on épicerie and café—if you feel a little Basque com- down the rue until you reach No. 155, where ing on, stop in here. Return to rue St.-Dominique you’ll find 31. Numaé for adorable baby and turn left. clothes if you have an infant to buy for (01 47 05 16 96). 23. Karl Marc, at 68, rue St.-Dominique, is a lovely new designer on the rue. 24. The Tome When you reach rue Cler, you might want to turn Dom bookstore, at No. 81, is good for books about to your left and peruse this lovely 32. market Paris and travel, and for cookbooks and comics. street. Selections here are good for picnics or Check out 25. BA&SH, at No. 81, for affordably making a meal in your rented apartment. 33. chic fashion. Turn right on rue de la Comète and Petit Bateau, which you can find in the US, is head toward rue de Grenelle. at the corner of rue de Grenelle and rue Cler, at 186, rue de Grenelle, if you need to stock up on Rue de Grenelle the T-shirts that everyone loves and kids’ pj’s.

At 10, rue de la Comète, you’ll notice a little bonsai If you must have your American food fix (think store that you should enter. Not only does 26. Pop-Tarts), go to 34. The Real McCoy store Bonsaï Rémy Samson have impressive bonsai and restaurant at 194 rue de Grenelle (01 45 56 and lovely gardening books, but in the back garden 98 62). you’ll find a small paradise of Japanese Zen plant- ings. An oasis of calm beauty. As you reach avenue Bosquet, turn right. Here you will find 35. La Palferine, at No. 43,

 53 83 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

which is an antiques shop that’s worth walking into. 15. 78 rue St. Dominique – Gerard Darel

Turn around and head south to return to the metro 16. 78 rue St. Dominique – Comptoir dse Cotonniers stop Ecole Militaire. If you still have some energy, 17. 91 rue St. Dominique – Bérénice you can end your day on avenue Rapp. Return to St. Dominique and turn left toward Ave de la Boudon- 18. 89 rue St. Dominique - Kooples nais and turn right when you reach avenue Rapp. 19. 74 rue St. Dominique – Lemoine Notice the gorgeous Art Nouveau building at 36. 29, avenue Rapp, which is across from 37. San- cerre, at No. 22 (01 45 51 75 91), a solid wine bar Grenelle, Jean Nicot, and Ave. Rapp where you can enjoy oysters and old-fashioned am- bience, and of course a glass of Sancerre. 20. 22 rue Jean-Nicot – Eric Chauvin

21. 20 rue Jean-Nicot – Stéphane Secco Points of Interest Addresses 22. 18 rue Jean-Nicot – Bellota-Bellota Rue St. Dominique 23. 68 rue St. Dominique – Karl Marc 1. 145 rue St. Dominique – Comptoirs Richard 24. 81 rue St. Dominique – The Tome Dom 2. 120 rue St. Dominique – Grégory Renard’s 25. 81 rue St. Dominique – BA&SH 3. 129 rue St. Dominique – Le Fontaine de Mars 26. 10 rue de la Cométe - Bonsaï Rémy Samson 3b. 139 rue St. Dominique –Café Constant 27. 21 bis, rue Amélie – Catherine Loiret 4. 135 rue St. Dominique – Les Cocottes 28. 20 bis, rue Amélie – Mayaro 5. 108 rue St. Dominique – L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest 29. 17 bis, rue Amélie – 7 Eiffel 6. 114 rue St. Dominique – 7 Famille 30. 151 rue de Grenelle – exquisite door handles 7. Corner of St. Dominique and rue Sedillot – a pharmacy 31. 155 rue de Grenelle – Numaé 8. 115 rue St. Dominique – Les Petites 32. Rue Cler market street 9. 92 rue St. Dominique – St. Pierre du Gros Caillou 33. 186 rue de Grenelle – Petit Bateau 10. Rue Cler market street 34. 194 rue de Grenelle – The Real McCoy 11. 109 rue St. Dominique – Venise Collection 35. 43 avenue Bosquet – La Palferine 12. 107 rue St. Dominique – Jacadi 36. 29 avenue Rapp – gorgeous Art Nouveau building 13. 37 rue Malar – Truffes Folies 37. 22 avenue Rapp - Sancerre 14. 99 rue St. Dominique – Bar du Central

 4 84 Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

Cont.

1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice 2. Café de la Mairie 3. Annick Goutal 4. Comptoir des Cotonniers 5. The Kooples 6. Hervé Chapelier 7. Pierre Hermé 8. Zadig et Voltaire 9. Agnès B. 10. Vilebrequin

11. Agnès B. 12. Au Vieux Colombier 13. Victoire Homme 14. Marcel Lassance 15. Longchamp 16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier

17. Le Bon Marché

Cont.

18. Camper 31. Heimstone 19. Robert Clergerie 32. Puyricard 20. Maje 33. Kamille 21. Gerbe 34. Lutetia 22. Poilâne 37. La Maison du Chocolat 23. La Cuisine de Bar 38. Hermès 24. Metal Pointu’s 39. Arnys 25. Le Civette 40. IKKS 26. Lilith 41. Maje 27. Cotélac 42. Mac Douglas 28. Cécile et Jeanne 43. Gérard Darel 29. N. Villaret 44. Losco 30. Le Cherche Midi

35. Le Bon Marché 36. La Grande Epicerie

45. Manoush 54. Sabbia Rosa 46. Repetto 55. Baby Buddha 47. Tod’s 56. Ventilo 48. COS 57. Iro 49. Sonia Rykiel 58. Paul and Joe 50. Borsalino 59. Y’s 51. Prada 60. Barbara Bui 52. YSL 61. Karry’O 53. Tara Jarmon 62. Maison Fabre

Cont.

63. JC de Castelbajac 64. Zef 65. Sonia Rykiel 66. Etro 67. Ralph Lauren

68. Gérard Darel 69. Façonnable 70. L’Ecume des Pages 71. Café de Flore 72. Les Deux Magots 73. Brasserie Lipp 74. Eglise Saint-Germain 75. Louis Vuitton 76. Assouline

77. Richart 85. Eugène Delacroix 78. Ladurée 86. Arty Dandy 79. Simrane 87. Jérôme Dreyfuss 80. Maison Rustique 88. Ollivary 81. Michèle Aragon 89. Isabel Marant 82. Librairie Signature 90. La Palette 83. Michel Klein 91. Galerie Documents 84. Pierre Frey

Cont.

Note: The Saint-Germain-des-Prés area is great to have on hand in case you do more shopping today than you anticipated. chock-full of stores, shops and little cafés for the ultimate Parisian day of walking and shop- Before you continue down rue du Vieux Colombier, ping. Give yourself an entire afternoon to enjoy take a right on rue Bonaparte. Three stores in on this tour. the left is 7. Pierre Hermé’s irst shop in Paris (72, Start at the 1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice near the Saint- rue Bonaparte). Stand in line to get the famous Sulpice metro station. Construction of this church, macarons or any of the other sweets. We adore the which replaced a 13th-century church, began in 1646 rose-lavored macarons. This is one of the best- and was mostly complete a century later. As you en- known patisseries in Paris. ter the church, on the right side you’ll see celebrated frescoes by Eugène Delacroix. Be sure to turn on the Turn back and take a right on rue du Vieux Colom- light to see them well. The church is also famous for bier. Notice the two boutiques of 8. Zadig et Voltaire its organ, which was built in the late 18th century and (1–3, rue du Vieux Colombier) on the left after is one of the world’s largest. It has been played by Hervé Chapelier. Z&V presents a style that is part many renowned musicians. Light a candle in honor of Malibu surfer, part rock and roll. The irst store is for a loved one and get ready for a full day. If you need women, and the second is for men. Across the street sustenance, exit the church and turn to the right, is an 9. Agnès B. (6, rue du Vieux Colombier) stopping for a coffee at 2. Café de la Mairie (8, Place boutique for women. This French designer gives us Saint-Sulpice), which has chairs that face the historic a classic Parisian look and is affordably chic. At the and famous Saint-Sulpice fountain, built in the center corner of rue du Vieux Colombier and rue Madame, of the square between 1844 and 1848 and designed 10. Vilebrequin (5, rue du Vieux Colombier) car- by the architect Louis Visconti, who also designed ries cute French swimming trunks for men and boys. Napoleon’s tomb. This is a popular café in the neigh- Also nearby is an 11. Agnès B. shop for men (12, borhood, and it has the best view. rue du Vieux Colombier), where you can always ind great gifts to take home to the men in your life. There is something to see, do, eat, smell or buy in every A cute bistro for lunch either today or another time direction. You won’t be able to do it all, so it’s best not to is 12. Au Vieux Colombier (65, rue de Rennes), try. As you face the café, head to the left, walking toward at the corner of rue du Vieux Colombier and rue de the Seine on rue Saint-Sulpice, and you’ll see 3. Annick Rennes, with lovely art deco decor and a classic Pa- Goutal (12, Place Saint-Sulpice), a perfume house risian atmosphere. While the food won’t win awards, known for its butterly-capped bottles. These fragrances the reasonably priced French bistro fare will keep make wonderful gifts for friends or yourself. Immediately your pocketbook happy. after this shop you’ll ind 4. Comptoir des Cotonniers (12, Place Saint-Sulpice) on the corner of Place Saint- Cross rue de Rennes toward the André shoe store Sulpice and rue Bonaparte, which has chic, affordable (this is a discount store that we don’t think is worth cotton clothing. Across the street, on rue du Vieux Co- a stop) and continue north on rue du Vieux Colom- lombier, is 5. The Kooples (74, rue Bonaparte), which bier, toward the Seine. Down the street you’ll see 13. carries a young rock-and-roll look. Next door is 6. Hervé Victoire Homme (15, rue du Vieux Colombier), a Chapelier (1 bis, rue du Vieux Colombier), famous for wonderful men’s clothing store. Several doors down its nylon bags. They fold up neatly, which makes them is 14. Marcel Lassance (17, rue du Vieux Colom- easy to take home as gifts in your suitcase; they’re also bier), also excellent for menswear. Farther along is 89 Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

Cont.

15. Longchamp (21, rue du Vieux Colombier), a du Cherche Midi) for a range of interesting artistic classic French label for handbags and luggage, and designs. On the left, look for 27. Cotélac (17, rue du beyond that is the 16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier Cherche Midi) for men’s and women’s clothing. (21, rue du Vieux Colombier), one of the venues where the Comédie Française performs. If you speak At No. 19, look for the lovely bas-relief above the French, buy tickets for a show. Catherine André shop, which depicts a bearded man and a cherub-like igure tracing a sundial, and is As you come to the corner you’ll approach the Carre- inscribed with the words “Je cherche midi.” four de la Croix Rouge, with ive choices of direction. Step inside 28. Cécile et Jeanne* (16, rue du If you follow rue de Sèvres, you’ll come to 17. le Bon Cherche Midi) for inventive costume jewelry. For Marché (24, rue de Sèvres), which is the oldest sumptuous, terribly French curtains and fabric, go to department store in Paris and one of the city’s best. 29. N. Villaret (20, rue du Cherche Midi). To enjoy There is great shopping in each direction, but irst go our favorite Italian restaurant in Paris, head to 30. down rue du Cherche Midi to the left. le Cherche Midi (22, rue du Cherche Midi), where reservations are essential. The 31. Heimstone (23, On the corner you’ll see 18. Camper (25, rue du rue du Cherche Midi) boutique embodies a funky, Vieux Colombier), a Spanish men’s and women’s fun bohemian vibe. Farther down on the left, look shoe company, with a particularly good selection for 32. Puyricard (24, rue du Cherche Midi) for of comfortable shoes for men. Turn left on rue du scrumptious chocolates from Provence. Cheche Midi. As you turn you’ll see a large half-man, half-horse statue, named “Le Centaure,” created in At the end of the street, take a right and you’ll see the 1980s by the French sculptor César. 33. Kamille (1, Place Alphonse Déville), a boutique that carries avant-garde fashion. As you approach There are many shops worth noting on rue du boulevard Raspail, you’ll see the 34. Lutetia* (45, Cherche Midi, the irst being 19. Robert Clergerie (5, boulevard Raspail), a famous hotel and one of our rue du Cherche Midi), which carries elegant shoes. partners. This is a great place to return to for a glass Next is a stock store of 20. Maje (6, rue du Cherche of champagne and oysters. Notice the plaque on Midi), which offers discounts on the brand’s well- the side of the building before you reach the corner, loved French designs. A good place to stock up on explaining that the Lutetia was used by the Nazis hosiery is 21. Gerbe (4, rue du Cherche Midi), which during the occupation. While that’s not a charming was established in 1904. Farther along on the right, claim to fame, the Lutetia is still a wonderful place to and probably the most famous place on this street, stay. is the boulangerie 22. Poilâne (8, rue du Cherche Midi). It is known for its hearty French country bread, Here you can turn left if you are ready to tackle 35. le not baguettes. If you are ready for lunch, have a Bon Marché (24, rue de Sèvres), or you can save quick bite at the Poilâne-owned 23. la Cuisine de the department store for a rainy day. It’s just past the Bar (8, rue du Cherche Midi), offering open toasted park on your right. There are two huge buildings; be sandwiches on Poilâne’s celebrated bread. Across sure not to miss 36. la Grande Epicerie (38, rue de the street is 24. Metal Pointu’s (13, rue du Cherche Sèvres), located in the second, where you can buy Midi), which specializes in very funky silver jewel- all the ixings for the ultimate picnic. ry. For a more sophisticated style, try 25. le Civette (15, rue du Cherche Midi), or 26. Lilith (12, rue 90 Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

Cont.

If you take a right on rue de Sèvres, next to the store with Italian hats made famous by oh-so-many Lutetia you’ll ind 37. la Maison du Chocolat (19, rue gangster movies. Across the street is 51. Prada (5, de Sèvres). Next to that you’ll ind one of the new- rue de Grenelle). In general we don’t recommend est 38. Hermès (17, rue de Sèvres) stores in Paris. buying non-French goods that can be bought at Wander in even if you don’t plan to buy, because the home for less, but if you are tempted, go Italian! The architecture is amazing. There’s a terribly fancy place very French 52. YSL (9, rue de Grenelle) can be for ladies who lunch to have a small bite inside, but found across from Prada, so if you have a high credit bring a well-stuffed wallet if you want to be among limit, do stop in. them. Across the street is 39. Arnys (14, rue de 53. Sèvres), a classic French gentlemen’s shop (very Take a right at rue des Saints-Pères and ind Tara Jarmon (75, rue des Saints-Pères), a expensive). good stop if you’re drawn to an uptown look. Next Continuing along, you’ll see 40. IKKS (12, rue de door is 54. Sabbia Rosa (73, rue des Saints- Sèvres), a chain that carries hip and affordable Pères). She can outit you in some of the most beau- clothing for men and women. Across the street is 41. tiful undergarments you’ve ever seen, but it will cost Maje (15, rue de Sèvres), which carries new, trendy you. Across the street is 55. Baby Buddha (68, rue designs. Also on this street, visit 42. Mac Douglas* des Saints-Pères), a new store that we like for bo- (9, rue de Sèvres) for beautiful leather goods, and hemian-style accessories. Back on the other side of 43. Gérard Darel (12, rue de Sèvres), which carries the street is 56. Ventilo (71, rue des Saints-Pères), a more mature look and clothing for larger sizes. well known for blazers for the country gentleman with a serious bank account. Continue on rue de Sèvres and you’ll arrive back at the “Centaure” statue. For a chance to design For a much more rock-and-roll look, cross the street your own belt, visit 44. Losco (5, rue de Sèvres), again to check out 57. IRO (70, rue de Grenelle). where you can pick out the type of leather and buck- Continue along until you hit 58. Paul and Joe le you’d like to use. Now cross the street and go (62–66, rue des Saints-Pères), one of our favorite down the next spoke of the star at the Carrefour du French designers, which carries styles for kids as Croix Rouge, and turn to go down rue de Grenelle. well as mom and dad. At No. 69 you’ll notice a little As you circle around and pass rue du Four, you can black sign for 59. Y’s (69, rue des Saints-Pères); if take a detour to check out the very feminine looks at you’re interested in art and fashion, check out Yohji 45. Manoush (52, rue du Four) and 46. Repetto (51, Yamamoto’s more affordable designs. Next door is rue du Four), where you’ll ind those ballerina lats 60. Barbara Bui (67, rue des Saints-Pères), whose that are all the rage. vision is calmer yet still quite fashionable. Across the street, 61. Karry’O (62, rue des Saints-Pères) of- Once you reach rue de Grenelle, turn left and con- fers a varied collection of beautiful jewelry. Next door tinue down the street, passing the shoe boutique 47. is 62. Maison Fabre (60, rue des Saints-Pères), Tod’s (44–46, rue du Dragon) on the right. Farther well known for its leather gloves, which it has been down the street is 48. COS (3, rue de Grenelle), making since 1924. Continue along rue des Saints- owned by H&M, a good stop for eclectic and afford- Pères to boulevard Saint-Germain, passing 63. JC able designs. On the right side is the iconic 49. Sonia de Castelbajac (61, rue des Saints-Pères), known Rykiel (4–6, rue de Grenelle) ; the irst store is for for fairly outrageous designs for the untimid, and 64. enfants (children), and the second is for women. Zef (55 bis, rue des Saints-Pères), a cute stop for kids’ clothing. Next door is 50. Borsalino (6, rue de Grenelle), a 91 Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

Cont.

Turn right onto the famous boulevard Saint-Germain. 1014, it’s one of the oldest churches in town. Step in- At the corner is 65. Sonia Rykiel (175, boulevard side and have a look around. Back across the street Saint-Germain), where you’ll ind shoes and bags. To is 75. Louis Vuitton (6, Place Saint-Germain-des- the left before you turn you’ll see 66. Etro (177, bou- Prés); stop in if you must bring back a little some- levard Saint-Germain), a designer from Milan. After thing from the iconic brand. Continue north along the Sonia Rykiel shop, you’ll see 67. Ralph Lauren rue Bonaparte and pass rue Guillaume Apollinaire to (173, boulevard Saint-Germain), which houses a ind 76. Assouline (35, rue Bonaparte), a wonderful store as well as a café that is famous for its cheese- international book publisher selling its mark only. As burger. If you are missing a taste of home, stop in. you continue, you’ll see 77. Richart (27, rue Bona- Cross the street and you’ll see another 68. Gérard parte), which offers fabulously designed chocolates. Darel (174, boulevard Saint-Germain) store and On the right you’ll ind 78. Ladurée (21, rue Bona- 69. Façonnable (174, boulevard Saint-Germain), a parte), a good stop for pastries and tea or coffee. shop for the preppy set. Its world-famous macarons make a wonderful gift, but they don’t store very well, so pick some up right Next you’ll see 70. l’Ecume des Pages (174, bou- before you travel. levard Saint-Germain), one of the most beloved bookstores in Paris. Although most of the titles are in Before you reach Ladurée on rue Jacob, don’t miss French, you can ind some travel guides in English 79. Simrane (25, rue Bonaparte), where you’ll ind and some wonderful postcards. Then you’ll see the charming French linens, napkins and tablecloths. 71. Café de Flore (172, boulevard Saint-Germain) Turn right on rue Jacob. Our favorite shop here is and, after that, the café 72. les Deux Magots (6, 80. Maison Rustique (26, rue Jacob), which has a Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés); across the street is green facade and specializes in books about garden- the 73. Brasserie Lipp (151, boulevard Saint- ing and plants. For very rich kilims and French pot- Germain). These are three of the most famous cafés tery, stop at 81. Michèle Aragon (21, rue Jacob). If in Paris and perhaps the world. Each was made you want to return home with a piece of history, visit famous by the bevy of writers and historic igures 82. Librairie Signature (17, rue Jacob) and search who ate and drank there, including Chagall, Camus, for something signed by Dalí or perhaps a famous Sartre, de Beauvoir and, more recently, Depardieu, French écrivain (author). On the right side, ind 83. Harrison Ford and many others. Everyone seems to Michel Klein (9, rue Jacob), which sells items for have had a drink or a coffee at one of them. We, on men, women and children and is well known for its the contrary, don’t recommend them, because the cool glasses. At the end of the block, you’ll ind the prices are extremely high and the service often rude. two stores of 84. Pierre Frey (5, rue Jacob, and 1, They tend to be classic tourist traps resting on their rue de Fürstenberg), very well known for French laurels. That said, if you must say you were there, try fabrics. the Café de Flore, which is still frequented by Pari- sians and where the service is slightly less rude. You Take a right on rue de Fürstenberg and notice the can end your tour here with a drink. If you still have charming Square Fürstenberg, one of the most some energy, though, turn left at les Deux Magots sought-after places to live in Paris. If you want to and head up rue Bonaparte. stay here on a future visit, talk to our friends at Haven in Paris, who have a vacation rental on this Across the street you’ll see the 74. Eglise Saint-Ger- square. Eugène Delacroix lived here in the 1800s, main (3, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés). Built in and the 85. Musée Eugène Delacroix (6, rue de 92 Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

Cont. Points of Interest Fürstenberg) is a small museum dedicated to his 1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice work. Located in his former home, it’s open daily 2. Café de la Mairie: 8, Place Saint-Sulpice except Tuesday. Tel: 01 43 26 67 82 3. Annick Goutal: 12, Place Saint-Sulpice Turning back toward rue Jacob, you can ind fun gifts 4. Comptoir des Cotonniers: 12, Place Saint-Sulpice at 86. Arty Dandy (1, rue de Fürstenberg). Turn 5. The Kooples: 74, rue Bonaparte right again on rue Jacob. You’ll come to a little square 6. Hervé Chapelier: 1 bis, rue du Vieux Colombier with a sphere-shaped fountain. Before that, on the 7. Pierre Hermé: 72, rue Bonaparte Tel: 01 43 54 47 77 left, you’ll ind 87. Jérôme Dreyfuss (1, rue Jacob), 8. Zadig et Voltaire: 1–3, rue du Vieux Colombier which carries some of the most sought-after bags in 9. Agnès B.: 6, rue du Vieux Colombier Paris. Across the street, the designer has another 10. Vilebrequin: 5, rue du Vieux Colombier store for men. 11. Agnès B.: 12, rue du Vieux Colombier 12. Au Vieux Colombier: 65, rue de Rennes Next to Monsieur Dreyfuss’s store is 88. Ollivary 13. Victoire Homme: 15, rue du Vieux Colombier (1, rue Jacob), a gallery specializing in midcentury 14. Marcel Lassance: 17, rue du Vieux Colombier antiques and found objects. Next to the gallery is a 15. Longchamp: 21, rue du Vieux Colombier 16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier: 21, rue du Vieux Colombier boutique of 89. Isabel Marant, a well-loved and hip Tel: 01 44 39 87 00 French designer, who is married to Jérôme Dreyfuss. 17. Le Bon Marché : 24, rue de Sèvres In her late 40s, she still looks 25! 18. Camper: 25, rue du Vieux Colombier A great way to end your tour is with un verre de vin, 19. Robert Clergerie: 5, rue du Cherche Midi so take a left on rue de Seine and then a right to ind 20. Maje: 6, rue du Cherche Midi 90. la Palette (43, rue de Seine). In the 1930s and 21. Gerbe: 4, rue du Cherche Midi ’40s, la Palette was frequented by artists such as 22. Poilâne: 8, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 48 42 59 Picasso, Cézanne and Braque. Before you reach the 23. La Cuisine de Bar: 8, rue du Cherche Midi resto, notice 91. Galerie Documents (53, rue de Tel: 01 45 48 45 69 24. Metal Pointu’s 13, rue du Cherche Midi Seine), which sells fabulous old French movie post- 25. Le Civette: 15, rue du Cherche Midi ers and other graphic art. Window-shop the galler- 26. Lilith: 12, rue du Cherche Midi ies you see along the street. If you continue on rue 27. Cotélac: 17, rue du Cherche Midi de Seine, you’ll reach the Seine and the Institut de 28. Cécile et Jeanne: 16, rue du Cherche Midi France as well as the beautiful Pont des Arts. 29. N. Villaret: 20, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 44 02 50 30. Le Cherche Midi: 22, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 48 27 44 31. Heimstone: 23, rue du Cherche Midi 32. Puyricard: 24, rue du Cherche Midi *A Girls’ Guide Travel Club Partner: All GGTP 33. Kamille: 1, Place Alphonse Déville members receive discounts at these and other loca- 34. *Lutetia: 45, boulevard Raspail Tel: 01 49 54 46 90 tions. For more information about the Girls’ Guide to 35. Le Bon Marché: 24, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 44 39 80 00 Paris Travel Club and the complete list of our 36. La Grande Epicerie: 38, rue de Sèvres partners (there are more than 200 restaurants, Tel: 0 1 44 39 81 00 shops, hotels, spas and more!), please visit 37. La Maison du Chocolat: 19, rue de Sèvres girlsguidetoparis.com/insider/member-beneits.php. Tel: 01 45 44 20 40

1 1  95 Gourmet Tour cont’d

1. Begin at Place Maubert in the 5th – Marché Maubert 2. 47 Blvd. St. Germain – Dubois 3. 14 rue Monge – Kayser

4. Saint-Etienne-du-Mont at Place Sainte-Genevieve 5. Rue Mouffetard 7. 74 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine – Hemingway Home 9. 123 rue Monge – Le Boulanger de Monge

10. 174 rue Saint Jacques – Les Caves du Pantheon

6. 136 rue Mouffetard – La Salle à Manger 8. 138 rue Mouffetard – Octave Ice Cream

2  2 96 Gourmet Tour cont’d

Begin your gourmet tour in the 5th Arrondissement After you’ve had your spiritual and cultural side at 1. the Marché Maubert, which takes place revitalized, follow rue Clovis toward rue Des- Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays from 7 to cartes, where you’ll turn right. You’ll stroll along 2:30 at the Place Maubert, near the Maubert- this street until it becomes 5. rue Mouffetard, Mutualité metro. Peruse the different stalls and which is a classic Parisian market street. During vendors, asking for samples when appropriate. Roman times, this was known as the road to You might see fish and shellfish you’ve never seen Rome. It is a very ancient street, indeed. Every- before, so don’t be afraid to ask what something one who comes to Paris strolls at one point along is, especially if there is no one waiting to be rue Mouffetard. You’ll see some very touristy ca- served. In general the vendors are quite friendly. fés, which you should avoid. If you want to stop, You might want to buy some fruit or sausage to wait until the very end of the street, where you’ll sample later. find an adorable little café called 6. La Salle à Manger at 136, rue Mouffetard on your right. For cheese, duck into 2. Dubois, which is at 47, You can have tea or coffee here alfresco on their boulevard St.-Germain (01 43 54 50 93), facing small terrace. But before you get there, about one the market on the same side of the boulevard. -third of the way down Mouffetard, you will run Laurent Dubois won a prize called the Meilleur des into a square, Place de la Contrescarpe, with a Fromages, meaning that he is recognized not only fountain. Around the corner here is 7. 74, rue for his quality cheeses, but also for the artistic way du Cardinal-Lemoine, where you will find a he prepares and ages his products. His goat little plaque indicating that Ernest Hemingway cheeses are particularly impressive. We think once lived on the third floor. He shared a cold- you’ll find plenty of fromage to buy and sample water flat here with his first wife while he wrote A here. Moveable Feast. You can spend an entire day or two trailing Hemingway’s life in Paris by following Walking down the street toward the 5th and turn- Michael Palin’s Hemingway walk. ing right on rue Monge, you’ll find a prizewinning boulangerie called 3. Kayser at 14, rue Monge If you love ice cream, 8. Octave Ice Cream, (01 44 07 17 81). Eric Kayser is very famous for at 138, rue Mouffetard, is a good bet. his cereal breads, but we love his seeded baguettes. His pastries are also divine. Buy and sam- If you need more gourmet fun, check out 9. Le ple as much as you can! Note: he has another Boulanger de Monge, at 123, rue Monge, a store at 8, rue Monge, as well as many more street which is parallel to Mouffetard (01 43 37 54 throughout Paris. 20). This bread maker was given three stars for their baguette by Le Guide des Boulangeries. To After all this sampling, turn right on rue des Ber- find this spot, walk to the end of Mouffetard and nardins and follow the road south until it ends at down rue de Bazeilles until you get to rue Monge. rue des Écoles, where you’ll turn right. Go to rue Turn left on you’ll see Le Boulanger on your right. de la Montagne-Ste.-Geneviève and take a left, curving around until you hit rue Clovis. Turn left 10. Les Caves du Panthéon, at 174, rue St.- and go into the church 4. St.-Étienne-du- Jacques (01 46 33 90 35), is an excellent wine Mont, a beautiful Gothic structure from 1492. store. Pick up a bottle of Brut Zero Champagne. You are at place Ste.-Geneviève, near the Pan- To reach this stop, travel north on rue Mouffetard théon. If you haven’t yet visited King Louis XV’s up to rue Jean Calvin and turn left. When you monument to himself, the Panthéon, you can reach the place Lucien Herr take rue LHomond check it out now.

 32 97 Gourmet Tour cont’d

north until it jogs and become rue des Fossés-Saint -Jacques. Follow this road until you reach rue Saint -Jacques and turn right. Les Caves will be on your left before you reach rue Soufflot. You’ll be near the Cluny-Sorbonne metro stop which is further north on rue St-Jacques and then left on Blvd. St- Germain.

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Begin at Place Maubert in the 5th – Marché Maubert

2. 47 Blvd. Saint Germain – Dubois

3. 14 rue Monge – Kayser

4. Saint-Etienne-du-Mont at Place Sainte- Gene- vieve

5. Rue Mouffetard

6. 136 rue Mouffetard – La Salle à Manger

7. 74 rue du Cardinal-Lemoine – Hemingway home

8. 138 rue Mouffetard – Octave Ice Cream

9. 123 rue Monge – Le Boulanger de Monge

10. 174 rue Saint Jacques – Les Caves du Pan- theon

 43 98 Quick Gourmet Tour

1 1  99 Quick Gourmet Tour cont’d

1. 76 rue de Seine (corner of Lobineau in the 6th) – Gerard Mulot 2. 14 rue Lobineau – Marché St. Germain

3. 89 rue de Seine – Pierre Marcolini 4. 64 rue de Seine – Fromagerie 31 * 5. 62 rue de Seine – Da Rosa

6. Corner of rue de Seine and rue Buci – Paul 7. 32 rue de Buci – Aux Vrais Produits D’Auvergne 8. 6 rue Jacob – Huilerie Artisanale J Leblanc et Fils

2  2 *Closed for Renovations 100 Quick Gourmet Tour cont’d

Our quick gourmet tour begins in the 6th Arron- Also stop into 7. Aux Vrais Produits dissement at 1. Gérard Mulot, at 76, rue de d’Auvergne, at 32, rue de Buci (01 43 25 63 Seine (corner of rue Lobineau). Mulot offers de- 41), which offers beautiful sausages and other lectables from chocolates to quiche and every- products from the Auvergne region of France. thing in between. We love nearly everything made at Mulot. As you leave the shop, to your right Continue along rue de Seine, turn left on you’ll see 2. the Marché St. Germain, which rue Jacob and you’ll see a tiny shop called is an updated covered market offering the basic 8. Huilerie Artisanale J Leblanc et Fils, fish, meat, cheese and fruit and vegetable stands. at 6, rue Jacob (01 46 34 61 55), made famous This is not the best one in Paris, but it is small to Americans by Patricia Wells. Many a gourmet and the quality is good. treks here to pick up a bottle of their pistachio oil, but all of their oils are excellent and a bottle From the market, turn left and then left again at makes a wonderful gift for a foodie. rue de Seine, walking north toward the river. Stop into 3. Pierre Marcolini, at 89, rue de Seine (01 44 07 39 07). Pierre is actually Belgian, but don’t tell anyone and you’ll enjoy these choco- * Sadly these locations have closed. lates every bit as much as the French ones.

Continue along rue de Seine, pass boulevard St. -Germain and stop into 4. Fromagerie 31*, at 64, rue de Seine (01 43 26 50 31). You can sit down here for an assiette de fromages (a cheese tasting) for a reasonable charge. Or you can take one of their lovely cheeses back to your hotel or apartment. Only slightly farther up the street is 5. Da Rosa, at 62, rue de Seine (01 45 21 41 30), where you can purchase jamon ibérico (the Points of Interest Addresses world’s best Spanish ham) as well as many other 1. Begin at Gerard Mulot – 76 rue de Seine at the things Spanish and Italian. Be ready to pay for corner of Lobineau in the 6th the Iberian ham, but it is truly better than any drug we’ve ever known. You can also sit down and 2. Marché St. Germain – 14 rue Lobineau sample from their menu and enjoy a glass of wine. 3. Pierre Marcolini – 89 rue de Seine 4. – As you approach the Buci market area (on rue de Fromagerie 31 64 rue de Seine Seine and along rue de Buci), you’ll see 6. Paul 5. Da Rosa – 62 rue de Seine at the corner of Buci and Seine (01 55 42 02 23). You can often see the bakers flipping and shaping 6. Paul – corner of rue de Seine and rue de Buci their dough in the window. Paul is good for breakfast and for takeout sandwiches. They are a chain 7. Aux Vrais Produits D’Auvergne – 32 rue de Buci with 300 stores in Europe alone. 8. Huilerie Artisanale J Leblanc et Fils – 6 rue Jacob

 32 101 Pastry and Chocolate Tour

1 102 Pastry and Chocolate Tour cont’d

1. Begin on rue Palatine in the 6th at Saint Sulpice 2. 8 place St. Sulpice – Café de la Mairie 3. 72 rue Bonaparte – Pierre Hermé

4. 16 rue d’Assas – Jean-Charles Rochoux 5. Luxembourg Gardens

6. 19 rue Vaugirard – Musee du Luxembourg 7. 76 rue de Seine – Gerard Mulot

103 Pastry and Chocolate Tour cont’d

8. 108 Blvd. Saint Germain – Patrick Roger

9. 34 Blvd. Saint Germain – Diptyque

3  3 104 Pastry and Chocolate Tour cont’d

Gosome back time to rue de Vaugirard, taking This stroll is over two kilometers, because now to stroll through 5. the Luxembourg you’ve got to walk off the calories, ladies! Gardens. The Luxembourg Gardens center Biking the tour is another option. around the Marie de Medici’s palace constructed in the early 1600’s. Marie, widow of Henry the IV, NOTE: Shops might be closed on Sundays. also commissioned the gardens. The Palace is used today by the Senate of France. Find the Start in the 6th Arrondissement at 1. St.- Medici fountain built in 1630 to the rear and east Sulpice, on rue Palatine, and enjoy the beautiful of the palace, which is a charming place to relax redone fountains. Stop inside the church if you on a sunny day. 6. the Musée du Luxem- never have and view the Delacroix painting in the bourg, a delightful small museum that often has small alcove to the right as you walk in. This excellent shows. Stop in and experience some church figured heavily in The Da Vinci Code. culture.

If you need some caffeine, 2. Café de la Exiting the museum, continue along Vaugirard Mairie (just to the right of the church as you exit toward rue de Tournon. Stop and admire the Pal- onto the square) is a good stop and a true ais du Luxembourg (Le Sénat), which was for- neighborhood café. merly Marie de Médicis’s palace and is now home to the French Senate. Turn left here, onto rue de Walk on rue St.-Sulpice toward rue Bonaparte Tournon. Walk along this street until it becomes and take a right, looking out for 3. Pierre rue de Seine. Here you’ll find 7. Gérard Mulot, Hermé, at 72, rue Bonaparte (01 43 54 47 77). at 76, rue de Seine (corner of rue Lobineau). We He is the absolute king of macaroons in Paris. love everything at Mulot, so sample whatever French macaroons, not the coconut ones we catches your eye. Maybe you are ready for a bit know in the U.S. Do sample the rose macaroons, of a savory taste. Their small quiches are excel- which are the Girls’ Guide favorites, but each and lent, and they will warm them up for you. every flavor is excellent. These make a marvelous gift — as long as you are giving them out Follow rue de Seine north toward boulevard St.- soon as they don’t keep long. All of Pierre’s Germain, where you’ll turn right. Walk all the way pastries are worth the calories, as he is truly a to number 108, the chocolate master 8. Pat- master. rick Roger’s delightful store. We love the fan- tastic window displays and his creative concoc- Turn back toward rue St.-Sulpice and follow rue tions using spices from all around the world. Plus, Bonaparte until you reach rue de Vaugirard at the the plain chocolate bars are simply superb. We Luxembourg Gardens. Turn right, walk several love his aqua-green packaging, and all in all we blocks and turn right on rue d’Assas. Walk to just LOVE Patrick Roger. Pick up a gift here number 16 and enter 4. Jean-Charles Ro- unless you are already loaded down. choux’s chocolate shop (01 42 84 29 45). He makes incredibly artistic busts of famous French For a peaceful end to a decadent day, we suggest figures such as Molière, as well as many other a stop into 9. Diptyque, at 34, boulevard St.- more traditional chocolates. Germain (01 43 26 77 44), to pick up a gift for yourself or a friend. Their candles and perfumes Save yourself some room, as we have several are legendary. You simply cannot go wrong here. more stops to go.

2  4 105 Pastry and Chocolate Tour cont’d

Note this last stop is a ways (over half a kilome- ter) from Patrick Roger, so if it is raining or you are wiped out you can skip it. But you will regret not having a couple of these candles packed in your bag when you travel home.

* Museum to reopen in fall 2011 .

Points of Interest Addresses

1. Begin at St.‐Sulpice on rue Palatine in the 6th

2. Café de la Mairie – 8 place St. Sulpice

3. Pierre Hermé – 72 rue Bonaparte

4. Jean‐Charles Rochoux – 16 rue d’Assas

5. Luxembourg Gardens

6. Musée du Luxembourg – 19 rue Vaugirard

7. Gérard Mulot – 76 rue de Seine

8. Patrick Roger – 108 Blvd. Saint Germain

9. Diptyque – 34 Blvd. Saint Germain

2  5 106 Wine Walk of the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements

107 Wine Walk of the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements

1. Harry's New York Bar, 5 rue Daunou

2. The Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendome

3. Le Rubis, 10 rue Marché Saint Honoré

4. Verjus, 47 rue Montpensier

5. Willi's 13 Rue des Petits Champs

6. O Château, 68 rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau

108 Wine Walk of the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements

7. Le Garde Robe 41 rue de l'Arbre Sec

8. Racines II, 39, rue de l'Arbre-Sec

9. Spring Boutiqu, 52 rue de l'Arbre-Sec

10. L'Art Source, 6 rue Marie Stuart

11. Frenchie 5-6 rue du Nil

12. Experimental Cocktail Club, 37 rue Saint Sauveur

13. Vip Room, 188 rue de Rivoli

109 Wine Walk of the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements

This is a walking tour, or rather wine along the way at the designer boutiques, crawl, for the young, brave and tireless. then turn left onto rue Saint-Honoré and You won’t, and shouldn’t, be able to visit all make another left at the next street to find these bars and clubs in one night, but there 3. le Rubis (10, rue du Marché Saint- are plenty for several nights on the town based on your mood, budget, energy level Honoré). Le Rubis is a down-home, hearty and tolerance. So pick a few that sound French wine bar, serving locals and appealing to you, and make sure to hydrate visitors stick-to-your-ribs meals at in between! lunchtime only, along with a large selection of wine by the glass or bottle. If Start your tour at the beloved American you come after lunch, you can still enjoy institution 1. Harry’s New York Bar (5, the zinc bar and burgundy banquettes for rue Daunou), frequented by expats and a snack and some vino. Parisians alike for the range of cocktails and more than 300 whiskies available. Return to rue Saint-Honoré and turn left, The story goes that a patron enjoyed the then make another left onto rue de original bar in New York so much that he Richelieu. Turn right behind the Comédie asked for it to be dismantled and brought Française and left onto rue de to Paris. In 1911, Harry’s New York Bar Montpensier. At the end of the street, debuted in Paris, and a range of notable you’ll find one of the tiniest wine bars in writers and Parisians were big fans. Paris, but also one of the best. 4. Verjus (47, rue Montpensier) is owned by an Turn left onto rue Daunou and make extremely friendly and knowledgeable another left onto rue de la Paix, American couple, with the husband continuing until you hit the 2. Ritz Hotel overseeing the cooking in the upscale, (15, Place Vendôme) on the north side of upstairs dining room and the wife serving the beautiful Place Vendôme. as sommelier for the wine bar downstairs, Unfortunately, the Ritz is undergoing a which also serves delicious small bites massive two-year remodel and won’t from the same kitchen. reopen until 2014, but you can imagine the stories and scandal that happened Turn right onto rue de Beaujolais and left behind the currently closed doors. Plan onto rue des Petits Champs, continuing your next visit to the Hemingway Bar until you hit 5. Willi’s Wine Bar (13, rue when it reopens. des Petits Champs) on the right side. Willi’s always has an interesting wine Continue through the Place Vendôme and selection to choose from, including do some fabulous window-shopping

French, Spanish and Italian varietals. You with your wine. The open kitchen and can pop in for a glass and bite at the bar, long communal table offer a great spot for or make a reservation to sit down in the a friendly meal while you sample more of newly remodeled dining room. France’s great wines.

When you exit Willi’s, turn right and Across the street is the épicerie and wine continue along rue des Petits Champs, shop 9. Spring Boutique (52, rue de turning right onto rue Jean-Jacques l'Arbre Sec), the cousin to the highly Rousseau, where you’ll find 6. popular restaurant of the same name **O'Chateau (68, rue Jean-Jacques around the corner. You can usually find a Rousseau) on the left. It’s run by the few bottles open that you can have a glass author of Stuff Parisians Like, a fun read, of while browsing salts, mustards and **O'Chateau offers a range of enjoyable vino, and Spring also offers a wine club offerings. You can learn about French that includes home delivery of some of wine by ordering a flight of wines from a your favorite bottles. specific region, or for more formal training, sign up for one of the Retrace your steps back along rue de entertaining and educational wine classes. l’Arbre Sec, taking a right on rue du Louvre and another right on rue Etienne Continue along rue Jean-Jacques Marcel. Turn left on rue Montorgueil and Rousseau until you reach rue du Louvre, you’ll immediately find many lively places then turn left. Make another left onto rue for your evening. One option is to turn Saint-Honoré, then turn right onto the right on rue Marie Stuart and head to 10. small street named rue de l’Arbre Sec. l’Art Source (6, rue Marie Stuart). Inside Here you’ll find a few good options. On are a bar and high-topped tables to the right side of the street is 7. le Garde sample the interesting collection of wine Robe (41, rue de l’Arbre Sec). Strap into from 15 countries, including France, Italy, this down-and-dirty bar for some natural Spain, Argentina and Chile. There’s also a wines with a plate of charcuterie, and well-chosen menu to match, with your evening will be off to a great start charcuterie, and warm, seasonal dishes. (or will continue down a great path). Continue up rue Montorgueil, crossing A little farther down the street on the rue Réaumur and making a right onto rue right is 8. Racines 2 (39, rue de l'Arbre du Nil, where you’ll find the popular 11. Sec), a good stop for a more serious meal Frenchie (5–6, rue du Nil) restaurant on

Copyright 2013 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls' Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved. 111 Wine Walk of the 1st and 2nd Arrondissements one side of the street, and the Frenchie 1. Harry’s New York Bar, 5, rue Daunou; wine bar opposite. The wine bar opens at Sun–Thurs, noon–2 a.m.; Fri–Sat, noon–3 7 p.m. and does not take reservations. The a.m. line to get in can start at 6:30 p.m., but it’s 2. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme, 01 43 16 30 30. well worth the wait for the inventive 3. Le Rubis, 10, rue du Marché Saint-Honoré, dishes and a stellar wine list to match. 01 42 61 03 34; Mon–Fri, 7 a.m.–10 p.m.; Sat, 9:30 a.m.–3 p.m. If you’re ready for something a bit more 4. Verjus, 47, rue Montpensier, 01 42 97 54 clandestine, head back along rue 40; Mon–Fri, 6 p.m.–11 p.m. 5. Willi’s Wine Bar, 13, rue des Petits Champs; Montorgueil and make a left onto rue 01 42 61 05 09; bar, Mon–Sat, noon– Saint-Sauveur, where you’ll find some midnight ; restaurant, Mon–Sat, lunch and cozier bars. Look for a bouncer outside dinner. the nearly unmarked 12. Experimental 6. **O'Chateau, 68, rue Jean-Jacques Cocktail Club (37, rue Saint-Sauveur). Rousseau, 01 44 73 97 80; Mon–Thurs, 4 p.m.–midnight; Fri–Sat, 4 p.m.–1 a.m. Inside, the warm brick walls encourage 7. Le Garde Robe, 41, rue de l’Arbre Sec, 01 49 you to tuck into one of the corners with 26 90 60; Mon–Sat, open until midnight. an expertly mixed cocktail and people- 8. Racines 2, 39, rue de l'Arbre Sec, watch while listening to the latest tunes 01 42 60 77 34; Mon–Fri, lunch and dinner. the DJ is spinning. 9. Spring Boutique, 52, rue de l'Arbre Sec, 01 58 62 44 30; Tues–Sat, noon–8 p.m. 10. L’Art Source, 6, rue Marie Stuart, Only the true diehards can think of going Tues–Sat, 6:30 p.m.–2 a.m. beyond this point, but if 2 a.m. comes and 11. Frenchie, 5–6, rue du Nil, 01 40 39 96 19; you’re not ready to call it a night, head Mon–Fri, 7 p.m.–10:30 p.m. down to the 13. VIP Room (188 bis, rue 12. Experimental Cocktail Club, 37, rue Saint- Sauveur, 01 45 08 88 09. de Rivoli). To get in, you’ll need to be 13. VIP Room, 188 bis, rue de Rivoli, either on a list or (a woman) dressed to 01 58 36 46 00. impress. Once inside, you can dance the night away at this club, open until the wee hours, complete with revolving dance floor and DJs extraordinaire.

**Girls’ Guide to Paris Travel Club Partner All GGTP Club Members receive discounts and VIP treatment here and at over 200 other partners. Visit our website for more information.