Walking Tours the Complete Set

Walking Tours The Complete Set

Table of Contents

1 Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn

2 Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn

1. Givenchy headquarters, 3, avenue George V, 8e 2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne, 8e

3. Christian Dior, 30, avenue Montaigne, 8e 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon, 8e 5. Stamp market, near avenue Gabriel, 8e

6. American Embassy, 2, avenue Gabriel, 8e 7. Maxim’s, 3, rue Royale, 8e

3 8. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme, 1er

9. Palais Royal, 1er 10. Didier Ludot boutique, Palais Royal, 1er 11. Comédie Française, 1, Place Colette, 1er

Through Fashionable Paris in the Steps of Audrey Hepburn

Audrey Hepburn made five films on location in Paris: was about to film Sabrina. Although the movie was shot in Funny Face (1957), Love in the Afternoon (1957), Charade Hollywood, it was Hubert de Givenchy who made the (1963), Paris When It Sizzles (1964) and How to Steal a glorious dresses that Audrey wears on her return from Million (1966). Funny Face was one of the first American cooking school in Paris. Okay, no apprentice cook who was films to be shot on location in the city and showcases the daughter of a chauffeur could really afford to dress like almost every major tourist attraction. Other films explored that, but that was 1950s Hollywood fantasy for you. some less well known areas. This walk will take you past Audrey and Givenchy hit it off from this first meeting, and locations from all five films in the chic 1st and 8th the rest is history. Arrondissements. A list of other locations easily reached Retrace your steps toward the metro entrance, and turn by metro or Vélib’ is also included for hard‐core fans. Wear left into avenue Montaigne. Cross the road to find 2. No. Givenchy. 2, avenue Montaigne. In Funny Face (1957), this is the scene of the fashion parade for which Audrey is late. The The walk starts at the Alma‐Marceau metro station. Take building is not open to the public. the exit marked Avenue Montaigne. When you emerge in the Place de l’Alma, keep the Eiffel Tower to your left, and Continue up avenue Montaigne, passing the chic Hôtel cross the road. Walk up avenue George V to 1. Givenchy Plaza‐Athénée with its red awnings on the left. No. 30 headquarters, at No. 3. avenue Montaigne, is the flagship of 3. Christian Dior. The building can be glimpsed in Paris When It Sizzles (Marlene This was the site of the first meeting between the young Dietrich is seen emerging from a white Rolls‐Royce to Audrey Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy in 1954. Audrey enter the store). 4 Enjoy the window displays of the many luxury brands The Palais Royal is the site of the cat‐and‐mouse scene at located on this street. Continue all the way to the Champs the end of Charade. Audrey is trying to figure out whether Elysées. Work your way around the Rond‐Point and enter Cary Grant or Walter Matthau is the bad guy, and the stark avenue Matignon, which is directly opposite avenue lighting highlights the colonnade and heightens the drama. Montaigne. Look for 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon. This is If you walk the length of the Galerie Montpensier, you will the supposed location of the room where William Holden pass the boutique 10. Didier Ludot. This designer has is searching for inspiration in Paris When It Sizzles. written an entire book on the subject of the little black Cross the road and enter the park. The gardens between dress (or LBD). Chanel may have created the original LBD, the Champs Elysées and Avenue Gabriel feature in both but Audrey gave it her own style in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Charade (5. the Stamp Market, which is crucial to the plot, Didier Ludot sells vintage haute couture—check to see if is located here on Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays, and there is anything by Givenchy you can try on. holidays) and How to Steal a Million (Audrey and Peter At the very end of the colonnade is 11. The Comédie O’Toole plot the big heist sitting on a bench here). Française, where the bad guy in Charade gets his The tree‐shaded avenue Gabriel passes the palace of the comeuppance. French president and ends at No. 2, or 6. The American This is a good place to end the walk or to stop for coffee or Embassy. (There are usually lots of security guards in this a drink. But if you are a diehard Audrey Hepburn fan, you area.) The embassy is featured at the beginning and end of can also explore: Charade. Walter Matthau pretends to work there, but it is 12. Le Cochon à l’Oreille, 15, rue Montmartre, 1er: this is Cary Grant who turns out to be the real diplomat. the restaurant in which Walter Matthau and Audrey You will emerge into the Place de la Concorde. Walk past have a serious talk in Charade. (Metro: Etienne Marcel) the Hôtel Crillon and turn left into rue Royale. Note the Art 13. Hotel Maxim, 28, rue Censier, 5e: Cary Grant and Nouveau exterior on your left at No. 3, rue Royale. This is Audrey spend time here in Charade (it is called the 7. Maxim’s, the chic restaurant where Eli Wallach gets Hôtel St‐Jacques in the film). Several scenes were very friendly with Audrey in How to Steal a Million. filmed in this Left Bank neighbourhood. (Metro: Maxim’s maintains a boutique as well as a restaurant, in Censier‐Daubenton) case you want a souvenir. 14. Musée Cernuschi, 7, avenue Vélasquez, 8e: this is the Continue to rue St‐Honoré, turn right, and cross the road. emptied‐out home to which Audrey returns at the Follow rue St‐Honoré (excellent window‐shopping) to No. beginning of Charade. (Metro: Monceau) 362. This is Cour Vendôme. It offers a shortcut to Place 15. Musée Jacquemart‐André, 158, boulevard Haussmann, Vendôme. When you emerge into the Place, you will see 8e: the exterior played the part of the Musée Kléber‐ the white awnings of 8. Hotel Ritz on your left at No. 15. Lafayette in How to Steal a Million; the interiors, The Ritz appears in three of Audrey’s films. The scene in however, were shot in a studio. (Metro: Miromesnil) which Audrey drives Peter O’Toole to the hotel in his 16. Palais de Chaillot, 35, avenue Raymond Poincaré, 16e: E‐type Jaguar (she is wearing a fetching combination of the Art Deco palace appears in Paris When It Sizzles. nightdress, coat and gumboots) in the middle of the night (Metro: Trocadéro) in How to Steal a Million is a classic. This is also where 17. Hotel Raphael, 17, avenue Kléber, 16e: Audrey usually Gary Cooper hangs out in Love in the Afternoon. And the stayed in this hotel while filming in Paris. (Metro: Kléber) magazine editor in Funny Face stays at the Ritz. And, of course, all those familiar sights from Funny Face: Keeping the hotel on your left, take the road leading out of the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe, the Winged Victory the Place Vendôme and then turn right into rue Danielle in the Louvre, the Opéra, the Pont des Arts . . . Casanova. This street offers many places to stop for Points of interest addresses: refreshment, or you can buy a sandwich and have a picnic 1. Givenchy headquarters, 3, avenue George V, 8e later in the walk, in the gardens of the Palais Royal. 2. No. 2, avenue Montaigne, 8e Cross avenue de l’Opéra and continue along rue des Petits 3. Christian Dior, 30, avenue Montaigne, 8e Champs, which is directly opposite. Note the Passage Choiseul on the left, one of Paris’s many beautiful 4. No. 3, avenue de Matignon, 8e shopping arcades. 5. Stamp market, near avenue Gabriel, 8e Turn right into rue de Richelieu. Look for Passage 6. American Embassy, 2, avenue Gabriel, 8e Beaujolais, which is just a few doors down on the left. 7. Maxim’s, 3, rue Royale, 8e Walk through and you will find yourself at the back of 8. Ritz Hotel, 15, Place Vendôme, 1er 9. Palais Royal. The Palais Royal Theater is directly in front 9. Palais Royal, 1er of you. Bear left and look for the archway leading into the Palais Royal colonnade and gardens. 10. Didier Ludot boutique, Palais Royal, 1er 11. Comédie Française, 1, Place Colette, 1er 5 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille

1 1

6 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

1. Métro St. Paul – starting point 2. 16, rue Pavée – K. Jacques 3. 3, rue des Rosiers at rue Pavée – Zadig & Voltaire 4. 3, rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Théière 5. 3 bis, rue des Rosiers – Annick Goutal 6. 7, rue des Rosiers – Custo 7. 34, rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel 8. 2, rue des Hospitalières St.-Gervais – Chez Marianne

9. 47, rue des Francs Bourgeois- MUJI

10. 61, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Antoine & Lili

11. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois - L'Artisan Parfumeur

12. 56-58, rue Vieille du Temple - Paul and Joe Sister

13. 75, rue Vieille du Temple - Manoush

14. 68, rue Vieille du Temple - Jamin Puech

15. 38, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Centre Culturel Suisse

16. 43, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Barbara Bui

17. 41-43, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Les Petites

18. 33, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Comptoir des Cotonniers

19. 1-3, rue Elzevir - Adolfo Dominguez

20. 22, rue des Francs Bourgeois - BA & SH

21. 20, rue des Francs Bourgeois - Chaise Longue

2  2 7 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

22. 23, rue de Sévigné – Musée Carnavalet

23. 5, rue de Thorigny – Musée Picasso

24. 23, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Satellite

25. 8, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde

26. 32, rue de Sévigné – Vialis*

27. 17, rue de Sévigné – Capharnaüm

28. 15, rue de Sévigné – Piment Café

29. 20, rue de Sévigné – Losco

30. 14, rue de Sévigné – Eric Bompard 31. 12, rue de Sévigné – Matière Première* 32. 40, rue de Sévigné – L’Eclaireur 33. 2, Place du Marché Ste. Catherine – Au Bistrot de la Place

34. 19, rue de Turenne – Argenterie de Turenne*

35. 17, rue de Turenne – Baby Beluga

36. 16, rue de Turenne – Anna Kaszer*

37. 18, rue de Turenne – Antik Batik

38. 22, rue de Turenne – Zadig & Voltaire

39. 24, rue de Turenne – Pain de Sucre

41. 36, rue de Turenne – Café Baci

40. 49, rue de Turenne – Café des Musées

3  3 8 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

42. 112, rue Vieille du Temple – APC

43. 125, rue Vieille du Temple – Abou d’Abi Bazar

44. 22, rue Debelleyme – V & J loungewear

45. 15, rue de Poitou – Shine

46. 24, rue de Poitou – Oxyde

47. 17, rue de Poitou – Avenches* 48. 22, rue de Poitou – Swildens* 49. 24, rue de Poitou – Native Kingdom* 50. 27, rue de Poitou – Violette & Léonie

51. 21, rue de Saintonge – Erik Linz

52. 25, rue de Saintonge – Blanc d’Ivoire

53. 29–31, rue de Poitou – Hôtel du Petit Moulin 54. 33, rue de Poitou – The Collection

55. 44, rue de Poitou – L’Habilleur

56. 25, rue Charlot – Jack Henry 57. 24, rue Charlot – Samy Chalon

58. 29, rue Charlot – Pring

59. 33 and 60, rue Charlot – AB33

60. 38, rue Charlot – Sylvie Arkoun*

61. 38, rue de Bretagne – Café Charlot* 62. 37, rue de Bretagne – Café du Marché 63. 39, rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants Rouges 64. 39, rue de Bretagne (within the marché) – L’Estaminet

* Sadly these locations have closed.

4  4 9 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

est. The main entrance is around the corner on This tour will take between two and five Francs Bourgeois. hours depending on how many shops you visit. At rue des Francs Bourgeois, turn right and head toward the Place des Vosges. There are great shops in both directions; to the left you’ll see 10. Antoine & Lili, at number 51, great for bright, Begin in the Bastille at 1. Métro St. Paul, in the colorful bohemian-style frocks made famous by 4th Arrondissement. Turn up rue Pavée, walking Madonna (word has it she outfits her kids here), north. 2. K. Jacques at 16, rue Pavée, is a great as well as Zadig & Voltaire, mentioned previously. stop if you are looking for those quintessential St. To the right you’ll notice 11. L’Artisan Par- Tropez sandals that have been all the rage for the fumeur at number 34; stop to try on some last several summers. K. Jacques has been scents. making them by hand for the past 75 years. Find 3. Zadig & Voltaire on the corner of rue des Continue on to the right, heading toward the Place Rosiers and Pavée, for a young, hip yet not-too- des Vosges. If you have time for a slight detour, expensive look. To the right on Rosiers you’ll find turn up the road and follow rue Vieille du Temple one of the best tea salons in Paris at 3, rue des north for a block. Within this block you’ll find 12. Rosiers, 4. Le Loir dans la Théière, if you Paul and Joe Sister (part of the Paul and Joe need a cup of tea for fuel or a little snack. empire), which is toujours chic and totally fabulous at 56–58, rue Vieille du Temple. Plus, you’ll find To the left now, continue walking down Rosiers, the very girly-girl shop 13. Manoush on the left, taking note of this very historic street. It is one of at 75, rue Vieille du Temple. At the end of the the oldest and most historic in Paris. It was and still block, on the corner of rue Barbette (number 68), is the center of Jewish life, with very trendy bou- you’ll enjoy 14. Jamin Puech and their incredi- tiques and cafés and the countless tourists who ble and unique bags. frequent the area. Some of the buildings here date back to the 1500s and earlier. 5. Annick Goutal Turn back around and head back down to rue des is at 3 bis, rue des Rosiers (on your left), good for Francs Bourgeois and turn left, heading toward classic French perfumes with that lovely butterfly- the Place des Vosges. 15. Centre Culturel topped bottle. After that you’ll find 6. Custo, the Suisse, at 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois, is good designer from Barcelona known for fun, trendy, col- for a stop if you need some culture. Exhibitions orful shirts as well as other items for men and are free, and there is a lovely little terrace for tea women, at 7, rue des Rosiers. in good weather. Farther down rue des Francs Bourgeois, at number 43, you’ll find 16. Bar- If you are hungry and don’t want to waste time with bara Bui, which is always a fashionable outpost. a sit-down meal, stop for a falafel at 7. L’As du Pop into 17. Les Petites, at 41–43, rue des Fallafel, at 34, rue des Rosiers (closed Satur- Francs Bourgeois, for a more basic yet still very days). Turn right on rue des Hospitalières St.- fashionable look. You’ll also find 18. Comptoir Gervais for 8. Chez Marianne (if you prefer fa- des Cotonniers at number 33—a great spot lafel or meze sitting down, this is your stop). Far- for affordable, wearable everyday casual clothing. ther down this street you’ll find 9. MUJI, the Japanese home and clothing store that always has something affordable, well designed and of inter-

 2 10 5 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

Head up rue Elzevir if you’d like to stop into 19. Sévigné, has nice cashmere that isn’t terribly Adolfo Dominguez, at numbers 1–3, for afford- pricey (for cashmere, that is), and it’s well done. able, unmistakably Spanish clothing, including cute 31. Matière Première, at 12, rue de Sévi- doggie clothes (à la Paris Hilton). If you pick and gné, is one of those places where you can create choose carefully, you might find a good bargain. An- your own jewelry with beads—a perfect afternoon other worthy stop is 20. BA & SH, for midpriced, activity if you are with a teen or a creative type. slightly bohemian frocks, at 22, rue des Francs On the other end of Sévigné 32. L’Eclaireur Bourgeois. Check out 21. Chaise Longue at has recently opened a cool new outpost at num- number 20 for a bit of folly if you are looking for a ber 40— this is one of the Girls’ Guide’s favorite gift for a friend with a sense of humor. shops in Paris. There are several more through- out the city. L’Eclaireur, owned by Martine and Stop in for a break from shopping and a dose of cul- Armand Hadida, is always cutting edge, marrying ture at 22. Musée Carnavalet (23, rue de Sévi- fashion, furniture and design. Be prepared to pay gné; 01 44 59 58 58). Chronicling the history of for Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons and Paris is the purpose of Carnavalet, but its exquisite the like, but their eye is artistic, sexy and always walled garden is what you’ll remember—plus, it’s au courant. free! 23. Musée Picasso, nearby at 5, rue de Thorigny, is divine and very doable in a short time Now turn around and go back to rue de Jarente, frame (but at present is closed for renovations; south of Francs Bourgeois, just off of Sévigné. check website first). Turn left and quickly you’ll come to rue Caron, and if you turn right you’ll see the adorable Place Farther down Francs Bourgeois, 24. Satellite du Marché Ste. Catherine. You can choose one does fun, affordable costume jewelry, which may be of the cafés here for lunch. 33. Au Bistrot de a bit colorful for some, at 23, rue des Francs Bour- la Place, at number 2 on the place, is fairly geois. 25. Autour du Monde, at number 8 good for a salad or something light. (corner of Sévigné), is one of our favorite stores in town, combining home and fashion—one can al- Now coming out of the place, go back to Jarente ways find something great here. Turn right on rue de and follow it until it ends at rue de Turenne, Sévigné, where you’ll discover 26. Vialis* at where you’ll turn left. Here at number 19 you’ll number 32, with their reasonable leather walking find an old silver shop by the name of 34. Ar- shoes and heels from Spain (they are truly comfort- genterie de Turenne* — pop in if you are in able—a real necessity in Paris). the market for silver. After this shop, on the same side of the street you’ll see two darling baby shops, if you need a gift. One has no name, and 27. Capharnaüm, at 17, rue de Sévigné, is a the other, at number 17, is called 35. Baby Be- place where teens and twentysomethings will find luga, perfect for that terribly chic, hip baby in reason to splurge. 28. Piment Café is a hole-in- your life. You can find interesting canvas bags at the-wall bar that we love, at number 15, and a great 16, rue de Turenne, in 36. Anna Kaszer. And stop post-shop. 29. Losco, at 20, rue de Sévigné, then you’ll see 37. Antik Batik at number 18, is fun if you want to create your own belt. All you do the famous bohemian fashion stop and a peren- is pick out the width and the type of leather and then nial favorite. You can probably find this store at fit it to the buckle of your choice. We’ve had a lot of home, however. Then you’ll find another 38. fun in here. 30. Eric Bompard, at 14, rue de Zadig & Voltaire at 22, rue de Turenne, if you

 3 11 6 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

didn’t stop before. unique and handmade. 52. Blanc d’Ivoire, Here, turn down Francs Bourgeois again if you’d at 25, rue de Saintonge, is the perfect place to like to peek in at the oldest and loveliest square in outfit the French home, or the American one! We Paris, the Place des Vosges, turn right. Con- like their candlesticks, their silver globes and tinuing now back up Turenne, you’ll see 39. Pain their luxurious comforters. Back down on Poitou, de Sucre, which offers some nice bathing suits have a look into Christian Lacroix’s hotel, 53. and lingerie that isn’t too wild or ridiculously expen- Hôtel du Petit Moulin, at 29–31, rue de Poi- sive. If you haven’t eaten yet and you didn’t stop at tou, which is très chic and unique. Farther down, Place Catherine, you can nourish yourself now at 54. the Collection, at number 33, offers the 41. Café Baci, at 36, or 40. Café des most interesting wallpaper we’ve ever seen— , at 49, rue de Turenne. After that the sur- Musées truly worth lugging back. 55. L’Habilleur, at roundings get a bit pedestrian, but never fear, you number 44, is good if you’d like to browse a mix are hoofing it to the haute Marais, which is quieter of designers (Paul and Joe, Michel Klein) or and our favorite part. The upper Marais is filled with items with a Moroccan touch. extremely original small shops and designers. Turn left when you reach rue Debelleyme, and stay Turning right on rue Charlot, you’ll find 56. to the right as the road forks, making sure to stay Jack Henry at number 25, with spiffy English- on Debelleyme. At corner of Vieille du Temple, style clothing by an American designer. 57. you’ve got at number 112, rue Vieille du 42. APC Samy Chalon, at number 24, has colorful and Temple—pop in for perfect jeans and other must- well-designed dresses and other pieces. 58. haves. Turn right on Vieille du Temple and you’ll Pring, at 29, rue Charlot, has wildly over-the- find , at 125, rue Vieille 43. Abou d’Abi Bazar top shoes. 59. AB33, at numbers 33 and 60, is du Temple, with their simple, elegant clothing. Turn a very understated fashion outpost with an LA here on rue de Poitou. You’ll find a fabulous sleep- feel. Simple, elegant jewelry with a modern bent and loungewear store called 44. V & J lounge- can be found online at 60. Sylvie Arkoun*. wear at 22, rue Debelleyme (on the corner of Poi- Once you reach the corner of Charlot and rue de tou). Nearby 45. Shine, at 15, rue de Poitou, of- Bretagne, top off your marathon day of shopping fers a nice mix of name designers. , at 46. Oxyde with a drink at 61. Café Charlot*, 38, rue de 24, rue de Poitou, has fresh, casual style, and 47. Bretagne, or 62. Café du Marché, 37, rue Avenches*, at number 17, has very interesting de Bretagne, and watch the afternoon/evening one-of-a-kind jewelry. 48. Swildens*, at number crowd walk by. Alternatively, go into the ever- 22, is a shop specializing in a very downtown look. adorable 63. Marché des Enfants À la Carte has fabulous necklaces with vintage Rouges, which is across the street from the watches. 49. Native Kingdom* was another cafés (open late on Thursday nights), and have spectacular kidswear shop (unfortunately now a mint tea and some Moroccan sweets at one of closed). , at number 27, 50. Violette & Léonie their outdoor tables. We also love 64. L’Esta- sells killer vintage clothing, shoes and jewelry. We minet, within the marché at 39, rue de Bre- love rue de Poitou! tagne. Divine! At the end of your long shopping tour of the Marais treat yourself to a taxi back home or continue on rue Bretagne heading east, Continue down the road, turning right on rue de turn left at rue Filles du Calvaire to find the Saintonge. Here at number 21 you’ll find designer metro stop of the same name. 51. Erik Linz’s creations, which are beautiful, * Sadly these locations have closed.

 4 12 7 Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille cont’d

31. 40, rue de Sévigné – L’Eclaireur Points of Interest Addresses 32. 2, Place du Marché Ste. Catherine – Au Bistrot de la Place 1. Métro St. Paul – starting point 33. 19, rue de Turenne – Argenterie de Turenne 2. 16, rue Pavée – K. Jacques 34. 17, rue de Turenne – Baby Beluga* 3. 3, rue des Rosiers at rue Pavée – Zadig & Voltaire 35. 16, rue de Turenne – Anna Kaszer 4. 3, rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Théière 36. 18, rue de Turenne – Antik Batik 5. 3 bis, rue des Rosiers – Annick Goutal 37. 22, rue de Turenne – Zadig & Voltaire 6. 7, rue des Rosiers – Custo 38. 24, rue de Turenne – Pain de Sucre 7. 34, rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel 39. 49, rue de Turenne – Café des Musées 8. 2, rue des Hospitalières St.-Gervais – Chez Marianne 40. 36, rue de Turenne – Café Baci 9. 47, rue des Francs Bourgeois – MUJI 41. 112, rue Vieille du Temple – APC 10. 51, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Antoine & Lili 42. 125, rue Vieille du Temple – Abou d’Abi Bazar 11. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – L’Artisan 43. 22, rue Debelleyme – V & J loungewear Parfumeur 44. 15, rue de Poitou – Shine 12. 56–58, rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe Sister 45. 24, rue de Poitou – Oxyde 13. 75, rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush 46. 17, rue de Poitou – Avenches 14. 68, rue Vieille du Temple – Jamin Puech 47. 22, rue de Poitou – Swildens* 15. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Centre Culturel 48. 24, rue de Poitou – Native Kingdom* Suisse 49. 27, rue de Poitou – Violette & Léonie* 16. 43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Barbara Bui 50. 21, rue de Saintonge – Erik Linz 17. 41–43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Les Petites 51. 25, rue de Saintonge – Blanc d’Ivoire 18. 33, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Comptoir des Cotonniers 52. 29–31, rue de Poitou – Hôtel du Petit Moulin 19. 1–3, rue Elzevir – Adolfo Dominguez 53. 33, rue de Poitou – The Collection 20. 22, rue des Francs Bourgeois – BA & SH 54. 44, rue de Poitou – L’Habilleur 21. 20, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Chaise Longue 55. 25, rue Charlot – Jack Henry 22. 23, rue de Sévigné – Musée Carnavalet 56. 24, rue Charlot – Samy Chalon 23. 5, rue de Thorigny – Musée Picasso 57. 29, rue Charlot – Pring 24. 23, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Satellite 58. 33 and 60, rue Charlot – AB33 25. 8, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde 59. 38, rue Charlot – Sylvie Arkoun* 26. 17, rue de Sévigné – Capharnaüm* 60. 38, rue de Bretagne – Café Charlot* 27. 15, rue de Sévigné – Piment Café 61. 37, rue de Bretagne – Café du Marché* 28. 20, rue de Sévigné – Losco 62. 39, rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants Rouges 29. 14, rue de Sévigné – Eric Bompard 63. 39, rue de Bretagne (within the marché) – 30. 12, rue de Sévigné – Matière Première L’Estaminet

* Sadly these locations have closed.

5  8 13 Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris: A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement

14 1 Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris: A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement

1. Metro Jasmin, line 9 – starting point 2. 78, avenue Mozart, Jackie’s home in Paris 1949–50

3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh 4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school, 64, rue du Ranelagh

5. La Gare restaurant and bar, 19, chausée de la Muette 6. Jardin du Ranelagh, avenue du Ranelagh 7. Musée Marmottan, 2, rue Louis Boilly

15 2 Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris: A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement

8. Franck et Fils, 80, rue de Passy 9. Passy covered market, 1, rue Bois le Vent 10. Rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian market street

11. Maison de Balzac, 47, rue Raynouard 12. Rue Berton 13. Musée du Vin, 5, square Charles Dickens

14. Palais de Chaillot, 35, avenue Raymond Poincaré 15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 1, Place du Trocadéro

16 3 Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris: A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement In 1949–50, during her junior year abroad, Jacqueline Rue du Ranelagh goes all the way down to the river, Bouvier lived in this area, which is known as Passy, where it runs into—appropriately enough—the Avenue while she attended classes at the Sorbonne. She later du Président Kennedy. If you are a true‐blue Jackie fan, described this year as “the high point in my life, my you may want to follow it as far as No. 10, once the site happiest and most carefree year.” of a literary salon patronized by a friend of Jackie’s, the writer and politician André Malraux. Through her The walk takes you through some of the streets she friendship with Malraux, Jackie arranged for the Mona would have known and ends at the Palais de Chaillot, Lisa to be sent to the United States in 1963. where in 1961, during a presidential state visit, John F. Kennedy described himself to a room full of journalists Go back up rue du Ranelagh (away from the river) and as “the man who accompanied Jackie Kennedy to Paris.” turn into rue Gustave Zédé opposite the Lycée, left on The walk includes a chic shopping area that Jackie pat‐ rue du Général Aubé and right again at rue Pajou. The ronized when she was married to Aristotle Onassis, who streets are climbing uphill—this part of the city was maintained an apartment in Paris. once the site of huge mansions with gardens sloping down to the Seine. Many of the ornate buildings that The walk takes about two hours from start to finish, but now occupy this area date from the late 19th and early longer if you stop to shop, eat or visit one of the 20th centuries. museums on the route. There are many good picnic Turn left on rue des Vignes (recalling a time when spots as well as dozens of cafés and restaurants. grapevines grew here), and cross avenue Mozart. Con‐ Begin at 1. metro Jasmin. Take the rue Jasmin exit, tinue on rue Largillière, which opens into a large space which comes out in front of 2. 78, avenue Mozart. where several roads converge. To your left is 5. La Gare, Jacqueline Bouvier lived in this building when she was a a popular restaurant, built into a former station on the student at the Sorbonne, 1949–50. She lodged with the railway known as La Petite Ceinture (the little belt), a widowed Comtesse de Renty and her family in a large line that once ran around the circumference of the city apartment, with several other students. There was no (www.restaurantlagare.com). central heating, and the eight occupants of the If you turn left as you come out of La Gare and walk apartment shared a single bathroom. During the winter, down Chausée de la Muette, you will enter Jackie slept with her coat over her for warmth. 6. Jardin du Ranelagh. In the 18th century, public balls Walk up avenue Mozart, keeping No. 78 on your left. were held here and Parisians from all walks of life came Cross the road and turn right into rue de l’Assomption to dance. If you have children with you, the garden of‐ (Napoleon and Josephine once lived on this street) and fers a range of amusements and places to play, and you then left into rue Davioud, a narrow, cobbled road. Turn will get no further. right into rue du Ranelagh. If you continue on the same road to the other side of On your right you will see 3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du the gardens and cross avenue Raphaël, you will see Ranelagh, where actresses Charlotte Gainsbourg and 7. Musée Marmottan (www.marmottan.com) at Marion Cotillard attended school, and where Simone de 2, rue Louis Boilly. It is devoted to Impressionist art. Beauvoir taught until she was fired in 1939 for having When Jackie lived in the 16th, this was a museum of an affair with a female student. Second Empire decorative arts. Its focus changed in Opposite the school at No. 64, rue du Ranelagh, is 1957, with a donation of Impressionist masterpieces, a 4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school. Ducasse, born in focus consolidated with a further donation of Monet’s 1956, was not a contemporary of Jackie’s, but his style of art by his son in 1966. If you are an art lover, you may using fresh, seasonal products is the same as that of René want to visit the museum. Verdon, whom Jackie hired as White House chef in 1961. But if you want to do some serious shopping, continue (She was the first presidential wife to hire a professional the walk. Cross the road directly in front of La Gare and chef, and she conducted Verdon’s interview in French.) take Chaussée de la Muette, which becomes rue de Passy, Ducasse’s school is on the ground floor at the back and the main shopping street of the Passy area. Look for the has a small boutique. Courses are open to all, and gift yellow signs on the left at No. 80. This is 8. Franck et Fils certificates are available. Instruction is in French, but a (www.francketfils.fr). The store opened at this location in translator can be arranged if you give the school advance 1937. Today, it’s a scaled‐down version of Le Bon Marché notice (www.ecolecuisine‐alainducasse.com/). (both stores are owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis 17 4 Vuitton). There are three floors of fashion and a pleasant tion. If you are feeling energetic, take the stairs that café on the top floor. Not only did Jackie shop here lead up to the left before the bridge. If you are tired, occasionally, but the store features the fashion line known walk under the bridge and, voilà, there is an escalator to as Paule Ka, whose designer takes his inspiration from take you up the hill. This takes you to rue de l’Alboni. Jackie (as well as Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly). Walk up to the traffic circle and turn right into the tree‐ Rue de Passy features boutiques from many of the ma‐ shaded boulevard Delessert. Notice the old walls on the jor fashion brands. Look for the elements of Jackie’s left, with filled‐in arches. classic style: either the pearls and the boxy suits of the Where boulevard Delessert and rue le Nôtre meet, you White House years or the oversized sunglasses, slim will see the gardens of 14. Palais de Chaillot, the site of white pants and dark skinny tops of the Jackie O years. John F. Kennedy’s speech in 1961. You can take the At Place de Passy, the road opens into a little area with steps on the left, which lead to a path that comes out trees. Turn right and you will see 9. Passy covered mar‐ near a statue of Benjamin Franklin, or you can just walk ket, at 1, rue Bois le Vent (foodies take note: the chefs into the gardens and head uphill to the main building at the Ducasse school shop here), and 10. rue de with its museums and restaurants. l’Annonciation pedestrian street market. 15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine Take the rue de l’Annonciation, which is closed to cars (http://www.citechaillot.fr/) has an excellent café with and has many open‐air cafés. On the left is the Passy a splendid view of the Eiffel Tower. Rest your feet and Plaza (where you can buy food for a picnic) and a little toast the memory of Jackie. church. Continue to rue Raynouard. Turn right into this Points of interest addresses: street and at No. 47 you will see the entrance to 11. 1. Begin at metro Jasmin, line 9. Maison de Balzac (www.paris.org/Musees/Balzac/). 2. 78, avenue Mozart, Jackie’s home in Paris, 1949–50 Honoré de Balzac lived here in the 1840s. The gardens 3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh are open to all, and this is a good picnic spot. 4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school, 64, rue du Ranelagh Balzac’s house reminds us that Jackie earned her degree in French literature (her favorite writer, however, was Bau‐ 5. La Gare restaurant and bar, 19, chausée de la delaire). She may have read Balzac’s “Treatise on Elegant Muette Living,” in which he says, “Anyone who does not visit Paris 6. Jardin du Ranelagh, avenue du Ranelagh frequently will never be completely elegant.” Words to live 7. Musée Marmottan, 2, rue Louis Boilly by, and it seems that Jackie did live by them! 8. Franck et Fils, 80, rue de Passy Continue past Balzac’s house on rue Raynouard, and 9. Passy covered market, 1, rue Bois le Vent look for the steps going down on the left. Take them 10. Rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian market street and turn left into 12. rue Berton. This charming cobbled 11. Maison de Balzac, 47, rue Raynouard street feels like a country road in the middle of the city. 12. Rue Berton As you go on, it gets narrower and narrower, until it opens into rue Marcel Proust. 13. Musée du Vin, 5, square Charles Dickens Bear left. Take the stairs down on the right into another 14. Palais de Chaillot, 35, Avenue Raymond Poincaré garden. From the bottom of the stairs, the exit is to the 15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 1, Place left, through a large square archway. Walk straight Trocadéro through and cross the road into Impasse Marie de Ré‐ gnier. The gate through the traffic barrier at the end of If you want to do more shopping, Jackie‐style, go to the th the street takes you into rue Charles Dickens. Walk to 8 Arrondissement (metro Franklin Roosevelt on line 1) the end and turn left, where you will see 13. Musée du and visit: Vin (Museum of Wine, www.museeduvinparis.com/en). Chanel, 42, avenue Montaigne: Chanel was the inventor In addition to the museum, there is a boutique and a of the little boxy suits Jackie favored as First Lady and restaurant, in a series of low, arched caves. The muse‐ one of Jackie’s favorite designers. um is educational, but the restaurant food is good. D. Porthault, 50, avenue Montaigne: Jackie bought the Whether or not you visit the museum depends on your linens for the White House here. answer to the question: Do you want to understand Givenchy, 3, avenue George V: Givenchy supplied the wine, or simply experience it? evening gown Jackie wore at Versailles in 1961. Directly in front of the museum is rue des Eaux. Walk Emilio Pucci, 36, avenue Montaigne: Pucci was one of down it and turn left into Square Alboni. Overhead is her favorite designers during the Jackie O years. the bridge that brings trains into the Passy metro sta‐ 18 5 Stroll along the Rue du Cherche-Midi

 1 19 Stroll along the Rue du Cherche-Midi cont’d

1. 22 Cherche-Midi – Le Cherche Midi 2. 50 Cherche-Midi – Au Nom de la Rose 3. 51 Cherche-Midi – Nemrod Café

4. 57 Cherche-Midi – Autour du Monde 5. 66 Cherche-Midi – Mamie Gateaux (for cakes and tea) 6. 67 Cherche-Midi – M.A. Dauliac Antique

7. 104 Cherche-Midi – Le Bistrot Landais 8. 24 rue Mayet – Tea and Tattered Pages 9. 17 rue Mayet – Hammam Pacha 10. 4 rue Mayet – Maison de Fanfan

2  2 20 Stroll along the Rue du Cherche-Midi cont’d

Tattered Pages (01 40 65 94 35) where you A good street for an hour-long shop-and- can pick up a cheap read and enjoy a cup of stroll, or longer. tea.

In the same area you’ll find the newly finished 9. Hammam Pacha at 17 rue Mayet (01 43 Start at rue Cherche Midi and rue Dupin. The 06 55 55). Mayet is a street off rue du Cher- closest metro stop is Rennes on the corner of che-Midi just before you reach Blvd Montpar- Blvd Raspail and Rennes. Walk north on Raspail nasse. Why not book an afternoon to relax in and turn left on Cherche Midi until you get to rue the sauna, ending in a four-hand massage? Dupin. Its worth noting that if you turn right on Cherche Midi you’ll come to 1. Le Cherche Also on the same street you’ll find 10. Maison Midi at number 22 (01 45 48 27 44). It has the de Fanfan, which is a very good consignment most delicious antipasto we’ve ever had outside shop specializing in smaller sizes. Near the tea of Italy, but reservations must be made in ad- salon there are several different stores all under vance, so come back another day once you re- the banner Chercheminippes, each specializing serve. One of the Girls’ Guide’s favorite Italian in consignment clothing for men, women and restaurants is on this street, the eponymously children, all located on rue du Cherche-Midi. named 2. Au Nom de la Rose at 50 is worth See if you can find a deal. noticing even though it’s a chain. It’s a unique flower shop selling only roses. Consider this Follow Mayet to the end, turn left on rue de your welcome to the beautiful rue Cherche Sèvres and follow for a long block until you get Midi. All addresses are on Cherche-Midi except to the Duroc metro stop. where noted.

3. The Nemrod Café at 51 is a typical Pari- sian brasserie for a bite or a coffee. 4. Autour Points of Interest Addresses du Monde, a chain with shops all over Paris, has an outpost at 57 selling wearable, reasona- 1. 22 Cherche-Midi – Le Cherche Midi bly priced stylish clothing. 2. 50 Cherche-Midi – Au Nom de la Rose 5. Mamie Gâteaux at 66 rue du Cherche- Midi is a charming tea salon plus they have a 3. 51 Cherche-Midi – Nemrod Café boutique and a brocante (antiques) shop! 4. 57 Cherche-Midi – Autour du Monde

6. M.A. Dauliac at 67 is good for antiques 5. 66 Cherche-Midi – Mamie Gateaux and vintage art as well as art deco objects. Now (for cakes and tea) take a good stroll down the rue until you reach 6. 67 Cherche-Midi – M.A. Dauliac Antique until you reach the cross street rue St. Romain. Note 7. Le Bistrot Landais at 104 rue du 7. 104 Cherche-Midi – Le Bistrot Landais Cherche-Midi (01 42 22 66 23) is a good place 8. 24 rue Mayet – Tea and Tattered Pages to duck in for some hearty Landais food, think duck, foie gras and pâté. Further down after a 9. 17 rue Mayet – Hammam Pacha couple of blocks, turn right on rue Mayet, at 24, 10. 4 rue Mayet – Maison de Fanfan is the used English bookshop 8. Tea and

 23 21 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th

 1 22 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

1. 145 rue St. Dominique – Comptoirs Richard 2. 120 rue St. Dominique – Grégory Renard’s 3. 129 rue St. Dominique – Le Fontaine de Mars 3b. 139 rue St. Dominique –Café Constant 4. 135 rue St. Dominique – Les Cocottes 5. 108 rue St. Dominique – L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest 6. 114 rue St. Dominique – 7 Famille 7. Corner of St. Dominique and rue Sedillot – a pharmacy

8. 115 rue St. Dominique – Les Petites 9. 92 rue St. Dominique – St. Pierre du Gros Caillou 10. Rue Cler market street (see also stop #32)

11. 108 rue St. Dominique – Venise Collection

12. 106 rue St. Dominique – Jacadi 13. 37 rue Malar – Truffes Folies & Lucie St. Claire 14. 99 rue St. Dominique – Bar du Central

15. 78 rue St. Dominique – Gerard Darel* 16. 78 rue St. Dominique – Comptoir dse Cotonniers 17. 91 rue St. Dominique – Bérénice

 2 23 2 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

18. 89 rue St. Dominique - Kooples 19. 74 rue St. Dominique – Lemoine 20. 22 rue Jean-Nicot – Eric Chauvin 21. 20 rue Jean-Nicot – Stéphane Secco 22. 18 rue Jean-Nicot – Bellota-Bellota 23. 68 rue St. Dominique – Karl Marc 24. 81 rue St. Dominique – The Tome Dom 25. 81 rue St. Dominique – BA&SH 26. 10 rue de la Cométe - Bonsaï Rémy Samson 27. 21 bis, rue Amélie – Catherine Loiret 28. 20 bis, rue Amélie – Mayaro 29. 17 bis, rue Amélie – 7 Eiffel 30. 151 rue de Grenelle – exquisite door handles

31. 155 rue de Grenelle – Numaé 32. Rue Cler market street (see also stop #10) 33. 186 rue de Grenelle – Petit Bateau 34. 194 rue de Grenelle – The Real McCoy 35. 43 avenue Bosquet – La Palferine 36. 29 avenue Rapp – gorgeous Art Nouveau building 37. 22 avenue Rapp - Sancerre

 3 24 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

Across from Les Cocottes at No. 108 is 5. This stroll can be done in just one hour or L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest, which would be a more depending on how much you stop. good place to stop if you have a rugby fan in the family. 6. 7 Famille, at 114, rue St.-Dominique Begin at rue St.-Dominique where it inter- (01 45 51 73 25), is a small shop that has some sects with avenue de la Bourdonnais and nice gifts, particularly for teenage girls, and a few avenue Rapp several blocks up from the pieces of clothing. We like its selection of metro stop École Militaire. Go over the Swildens tees. tour first, before you set out, and think about reserving ahead for lunch or dinner 7. The pharmacy near the corner of St.- at one of the many fine restaurants we Dominique and rue Sedillot is a good place to suggest. This is a wonderful afternoon stock up on Darphin creams or La Roche-Posay tour after seeing the Eiffel Tower in the sunscreen. 8. Les Petites, at 115, rue St.- morning. Dominique, is wonderful for colorful prints and cashmeres. Note the 9. St. Pierre du Gros Caillou church, at No. 92, which was built in the Rue St. Dominique 1800s, and whose chapel was built in the 1700s. Not particularly old by Parisian standards, but a 1. Comptoirs Richard at 145 rue St. Domi- charming neighborhood church nonetheless. Not nique (01 53 59 99 18) is a well stocked tea and usually open to the public. coffee store where you can find some nice gifts such as Eiffel Tower espresso cups, colored sugars You can turn down rue Cler and head south if you and Paris cardboard keepsake boxes (there are wish, walking a block to get to the 10. Rue Cler several other locations in Paris). market street, or wait until later so you can pick up some fresh picnic ingredients or appetiz- 2. Grégory Renard’s shop, at 120, rue St.- ers on the way home. 11. Venise Collection, Dominique, is worth a stop for world-class artisanal at No. 109, rue St. Dominique, is a shoe store that chocolates and macarons. sells a well-selected assortment of heels and flats by Sonia Rykiel, Givenchy and Chloe. 12. Rue St. Dominique has one of our favorite bistros in Jacadi, the renowned children’s fashion store, is Paris, at 129 rue St. 3. La Fontaine de Mars at No. 107. 13. Truffes Folies is an épicerie Dominique (01 47 05 46 44). This is the classic red- and restaurant located just off rue St.-Dominique tableclothed bistro serving a good Confit de Canard at 37, rue Malar (01 44 18 05 41). If you are a truf- (crispy duck leg) and boasting friendly service. Out fle fan, this is an essential stop. of certain windows here you can see the Eiffel Tower sparkle at night. President Obama has dined 14. Bar du Central, at 99, rue St.-Dominique, here. is a good place stop for un verre or a coffee.

In general, Chef Christian Constant owns this area, 15. Gerard Darel, at No. 78, is a solid French boasting not 1 but 4 restaurants. We like the more brand with fashionable finds often available in lar- relaxed 3b. Café Constant at 139 rue St. Domi- ger sizes, which is completely abnormal in Paris. nique (01 47 53 73 34) or 4. Les Cocottes at A favorite of Susan Sarandon and Meryl Streep 135 rue St. Dominique (no reservations required at since 1973. Les Cocottes).

 42 25 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

One of our favorite stores in Paris is at 78 rue St. Note the beautiful Beaux Arts and Art Nouveau Dominique, 16. Comptoir des Cotonniers, architecture of some of the buildings on rue de for affordable chic Parisian looks. The always chic Grenelle as you enter this street and make a 17. Bérénice, at number 91, is a fashion find. right. 18. Kooples is a trendy brand at 89, rue St.- Dominique, where you can find younger Take your first right off rue de Grenelle and turn “downtown” looks often in black, white or gray. 19. right back up rue Amélie to check out the hand- Lemoine, at No. 74, is a cute little chocolate, nou- made-leather purse store, 27. Catherine gat and macaron shop, in case you haven’t in- Loiret, at 21 bis, rue Amélie. These ingenious dulged yet. It’s known for its cannelés, which are designs are right for any fashion maven (09 53 tiny cakes from the Bordeaux region. 65 10 40). As long as you are on rue Amélie, you might want to pop into No. 20, 28. Ma- Now, turn up rue Jean Nicot for several special yaro, which has some interesting items for the stores. At 22 rue Jean-Nicot (01 45 50 43 54), French home. On this same street is a new, very you’ll find one of the great florists in a town full of modern hotel, which has reasonable rates be- florists, 20. Eric Chauvin. Next door, 21. Sté- ginning at 165 euros, for your return trip to Paris: phane Secco, whose pain au chocolat was 29. 7 Eiffel, at 17 bis, rue Amélie (01 45 55 10 voted the best in Paris, can be found at 20 rue 01). Jean-Nicot (01 43 17 35 20). The shop is worth a look even if you aren’t hungry. Return to rue de Grenelle and turn right. Notice the 30. exquisite door handles at No. 22. Bellota-Bellota, at 18, rue Jean Nicot, is 151, from the Art Nouveau era. The corn-and- jamón (ham) heaven and a sublime little Spanish lizard handles warrant a photo. Continue on épicerie and café—if you feel a little Basque com- down the rue until you reach No. 155, where ing on, stop in here. Return to rue St.-Dominique you’ll find 31. Numaé for adorable baby and turn left. clothes if you have an infant to buy for (01 47 05 16 96). 23. Karl Marc, at 68, rue St.-Dominique, is a lovely new designer on the rue. 24. The Tome When you reach rue Cler, you might want to turn Dom bookstore, at No. 81, is good for books about to your left and peruse this lovely 32. market Paris and travel, and for cookbooks and comics. street. Selections here are good for picnics or Check out 25. BA&SH, at No. 81, for affordably making a meal in your rented apartment. 33. chic fashion. Turn right on rue de la Comète and Petit Bateau, which you can find in the US, is head toward rue de Grenelle. at the corner of rue de Grenelle and rue Cler, at 186, rue de Grenelle, if you need to stock up on Rue de Grenelle the T-shirts that everyone loves and kids’ pj’s.

At 10, rue de la Comète, you’ll notice a little bonsai If you must have your American food fix (think store that you should enter. Not only does 26. Pop-Tarts), go to 34. The Real McCoy store Bonsaï Rémy Samson have impressive bonsai and restaurant at 194 rue de Grenelle (01 45 56 and lovely gardening books, but in the back garden 98 62). you’ll find a small paradise of Japanese Zen plant- ings. An oasis of calm beauty. As you reach avenue Bosquet, turn right. Here you will find 35. La Palferine, at No. 43,

 53 26 Shop Rue St. Dominique and Grenelle in the 7th cont’d

which is an antiques shop that’s worth walking into. 15. 78 rue St. Dominique – Gerard Darel

Turn around and head south to return to the metro 16. 78 rue St. Dominique – Comptoir dse Cotonniers stop Ecole Militaire. If you still have some energy, 17. 91 rue St. Dominique – Bérénice you can end your day on avenue Rapp. Return to St. Dominique and turn left toward Ave de la Boudon- 18. 89 rue St. Dominique - Kooples nais and turn right when you reach avenue Rapp. 19. 74 rue St. Dominique – Lemoine Notice the gorgeous Art Nouveau building at 36. 29, avenue Rapp, which is across from 37. San- cerre, at No. 22 (01 45 51 75 91), a solid wine bar Grenelle, Jean Nicot, and Ave. Rapp where you can enjoy oysters and old-fashioned am- bience, and of course a glass of Sancerre. 20. 22 rue Jean-Nicot – Eric Chauvin

21. 20 rue Jean-Nicot – Stéphane Secco Points of Interest Addresses 22. 18 rue Jean-Nicot – Bellota-Bellota Rue St. Dominique 23. 68 rue St. Dominique – Karl Marc 1. 145 rue St. Dominique – Comptoirs Richard 24. 81 rue St. Dominique – The Tome Dom 2. 120 rue St. Dominique – Grégory Renard’s 25. 81 rue St. Dominique – BA&SH 3. 129 rue St. Dominique – Le Fontaine de Mars 26. 10 rue de la Cométe - Bonsaï Rémy Samson 3b. 139 rue St. Dominique –Café Constant 27. 21 bis, rue Amélie – Catherine Loiret 4. 135 rue St. Dominique – Les Cocottes 28. 20 bis, rue Amélie – Mayaro 5. 108 rue St. Dominique – L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest 29. 17 bis, rue Amélie – 7 Eiffel 6. 114 rue St. Dominique – 7 Famille 30. 151 rue de Grenelle – exquisite door handles 7. Corner of St. Dominique and rue Sedillot – a pharmacy 31. 155 rue de Grenelle – Numaé 8. 115 rue St. Dominique – Les Petites 32. Rue Cler market street 9. 92 rue St. Dominique – St. Pierre du Gros Caillou 33. 186 rue de Grenelle – Petit Bateau 10. Rue Cler market street 34. 194 rue de Grenelle – The Real McCoy 11. 109 rue St. Dominique – Venise Collection 35. 43 avenue Bosquet – La Palferine 12. 107 rue St. Dominique – Jacadi 36. 29 avenue Rapp – gorgeous Art Nouveau building 13. 37 rue Malar – Truffes Folies 37. 22 avenue Rapp - Sancerre 14. 99 rue St. Dominique – Bar du Central

 4 27 Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

Cont.

1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice 2. Café de la Mairie 3. Annick Goutal 4. Comptoir des Cotonniers 5. The Kooples 6. Hervé Chapelier 7. Pierre Hermé 8. Zadig et Voltaire 9. Agnès B. 10. Vilebrequin

11. Agnès B. 12. Au Vieux Colombier 13. Victoire Homme 14. Marcel Lassance 15. Longchamp 16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier

17. Le Bon Marché

Cont.

18. Camper 31. Heimstone 19. Robert Clergerie 32. Puyricard 20. Maje 33. Kamille 21. Gerbe 34. Lutetia 22. Poilâne 37. La Maison du Chocolat 23. La Cuisine de Bar 38. Hermès 24. Metal Pointu’s 39. Arnys 25. Le Civette 40. IKKS 26. Lilith 41. Maje 27. Cotélac 42. Mac Douglas 28. Cécile et Jeanne 43. Gérard Darel 29. N. Villaret 44. Losco 30. Le Cherche Midi

35. Le Bon Marché 36. La Grande Epicerie

45. Manoush 54. Sabbia Rosa 46. Repetto 55. Baby Buddha 47. Tod’s 56. Ventilo 48. COS 57. Iro 49. Sonia Rykiel 58. Paul and Joe 50. Borsalino 59. Y’s 51. Prada 60. Barbara Bui 52. YSL 61. Karry’O 53. Tara Jarmon 62. Maison Fabre

Cont.

63. JC de Castelbajac 64. Zef 65. Sonia Rykiel 66. Etro 67. Ralph Lauren

68. Gérard Darel 69. Façonnable 70. L’Ecume des Pages 71. Café de Flore 72. Les Deux Magots 73. Brasserie Lipp 74. Eglise Saint-Germain 75. Louis Vuitton 76. Assouline

77. Richart 85. Eugène Delacroix 78. Ladurée 86. Arty Dandy 79. Simrane 87. Jérôme Dreyfuss 80. Maison Rustique 88. Ollivary 81. Michèle Aragon 89. Isabel Marant 82. Librairie Signature 90. La Palette 83. Michel Klein 91. Galerie Documents 84. Pierre Frey

Cont.

Note: The Saint-Germain-des-Prés area is great to have on hand in case you do more shopping today than you anticipated. chock-full of stores, shops and little cafés for the ultimate Parisian day of walking and shop- Before you continue down rue du Vieux Colombier, ping. Give yourself an entire afternoon to enjoy take a right on rue Bonaparte. Three stores in on this tour. the left is 7. Pierre Hermé’s irst shop in Paris (72, Start at the 1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice near the Saint- rue Bonaparte). Stand in line to get the famous Sulpice metro station. Construction of this church, macarons or any of the other sweets. We adore the which replaced a 13th-century church, began in 1646 rose-lavored macarons. This is one of the best- and was mostly complete a century later. As you en- known patisseries in Paris. ter the church, on the right side you’ll see celebrated frescoes by Eugène Delacroix. Be sure to turn on the Turn back and take a right on rue du Vieux Colom- light to see them well. The church is also famous for bier. Notice the two boutiques of 8. Zadig et Voltaire its organ, which was built in the late 18th century and (1–3, rue du Vieux Colombier) on the left after is one of the world’s largest. It has been played by Hervé Chapelier. Z&V presents a style that is part many renowned musicians. Light a candle in honor of Malibu surfer, part rock and roll. The irst store is for a loved one and get ready for a full day. If you need women, and the second is for men. Across the street sustenance, exit the church and turn to the right, is an 9. Agnès B. (6, rue du Vieux Colombier) stopping for a coffee at 2. Café de la Mairie (8, Place boutique for women. This French designer gives us Saint-Sulpice), which has chairs that face the historic a classic Parisian look and is affordably chic. At the and famous Saint-Sulpice fountain, built in the center corner of rue du Vieux Colombier and rue Madame, of the square between 1844 and 1848 and designed 10. Vilebrequin (5, rue du Vieux Colombier) car- by the architect Louis Visconti, who also designed ries cute French swimming trunks for men and boys. Napoleon’s tomb. This is a popular café in the neigh- Also nearby is an 11. Agnès B. shop for men (12, borhood, and it has the best view. rue du Vieux Colombier), where you can always ind great gifts to take home to the men in your life. There is something to see, do, eat, smell or buy in every A cute bistro for lunch either today or another time direction. You won’t be able to do it all, so it’s best not to is 12. Au Vieux Colombier (65, rue de Rennes), try. As you face the café, head to the left, walking toward at the corner of rue du Vieux Colombier and rue de the Seine on rue Saint-Sulpice, and you’ll see 3. Annick Rennes, with lovely art deco decor and a classic Pa- Goutal (12, Place Saint-Sulpice), a perfume house risian atmosphere. While the food won’t win awards, known for its butterly-capped bottles. These fragrances the reasonably priced French bistro fare will keep make wonderful gifts for friends or yourself. Immediately your pocketbook happy. after this shop you’ll ind 4. Comptoir des Cotonniers (12, Place Saint-Sulpice) on the corner of Place Saint- Cross rue de Rennes toward the André shoe store Sulpice and rue Bonaparte, which has chic, affordable (this is a discount store that we don’t think is worth cotton clothing. Across the street, on rue du Vieux Co- a stop) and continue north on rue du Vieux Colom- lombier, is 5. The Kooples (74, rue Bonaparte), which bier, toward the Seine. Down the street you’ll see 13. carries a young rock-and-roll look. Next door is 6. Hervé Victoire Homme (15, rue du Vieux Colombier), a Chapelier (1 bis, rue du Vieux Colombier), famous for wonderful men’s clothing store. Several doors down its nylon bags. They fold up neatly, which makes them is 14. Marcel Lassance (17, rue du Vieux Colom- easy to take home as gifts in your suitcase; they’re also bier), also excellent for menswear. Farther along is 32 Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

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15. Longchamp (21, rue du Vieux Colombier), a du Cherche Midi) for a range of interesting artistic classic French label for handbags and luggage, and designs. On the left, look for 27. Cotélac (17, rue du beyond that is the 16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier Cherche Midi) for men’s and women’s clothing. (21, rue du Vieux Colombier), one of the venues where the Comédie Française performs. If you speak At No. 19, look for the lovely bas-relief above the French, buy tickets for a show. Catherine André shop, which depicts a bearded man and a cherub-like igure tracing a sundial, and is As you come to the corner you’ll approach the Carre- inscribed with the words “Je cherche midi.” four de la Croix Rouge, with ive choices of direction. Step inside 28. Cécile et Jeanne* (16, rue du If you follow rue de Sèvres, you’ll come to 17. le Bon Cherche Midi) for inventive costume jewelry. For Marché (24, rue de Sèvres), which is the oldest sumptuous, terribly French curtains and fabric, go to department store in Paris and one of the city’s best. 29. N. Villaret (20, rue du Cherche Midi). To enjoy There is great shopping in each direction, but irst go our favorite Italian restaurant in Paris, head to 30. down rue du Cherche Midi to the left. le Cherche Midi (22, rue du Cherche Midi), where reservations are essential. The 31. Heimstone (23, On the corner you’ll see 18. Camper (25, rue du rue du Cherche Midi) boutique embodies a funky, Vieux Colombier), a Spanish men’s and women’s fun bohemian vibe. Farther down on the left, look shoe company, with a particularly good selection for 32. Puyricard (24, rue du Cherche Midi) for of comfortable shoes for men. Turn left on rue du scrumptious chocolates from Provence. Cheche Midi. As you turn you’ll see a large half-man, half-horse statue, named “Le Centaure,” created in At the end of the street, take a right and you’ll see the 1980s by the French sculptor César. 33. Kamille (1, Place Alphonse Déville), a boutique that carries avant-garde fashion. As you approach There are many shops worth noting on rue du boulevard Raspail, you’ll see the 34. Lutetia* (45, Cherche Midi, the irst being 19. Robert Clergerie (5, boulevard Raspail), a famous hotel and one of our rue du Cherche Midi), which carries elegant shoes. partners. This is a great place to return to for a glass Next is a stock store of 20. Maje (6, rue du Cherche of champagne and oysters. Notice the plaque on Midi), which offers discounts on the brand’s well- the side of the building before you reach the corner, loved French designs. A good place to stock up on explaining that the Lutetia was used by the Nazis hosiery is 21. Gerbe (4, rue du Cherche Midi), which during the occupation. While that’s not a charming was established in 1904. Farther along on the right, claim to fame, the Lutetia is still a wonderful place to and probably the most famous place on this street, stay. is the boulangerie 22. Poilâne (8, rue du Cherche Midi). It is known for its hearty French country bread, Here you can turn left if you are ready to tackle 35. le not baguettes. If you are ready for lunch, have a Bon Marché (24, rue de Sèvres), or you can save quick bite at the Poilâne-owned 23. la Cuisine de the department store for a rainy day. It’s just past the Bar (8, rue du Cherche Midi), offering open toasted park on your right. There are two huge buildings; be sandwiches on Poilâne’s celebrated bread. Across sure not to miss 36. la Grande Epicerie (38, rue de the street is 24. Metal Pointu’s (13, rue du Cherche Sèvres), located in the second, where you can buy Midi), which specializes in very funky silver jewel- all the ixings for the ultimate picnic. ry. For a more sophisticated style, try 25. le Civette (15, rue du Cherche Midi), or 26. Lilith (12, rue 33 Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

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If you take a right on rue de Sèvres, next to the store with Italian hats made famous by oh-so-many Lutetia you’ll ind 37. la Maison du Chocolat (19, rue gangster movies. Across the street is 51. Prada (5, de Sèvres). Next to that you’ll ind one of the new- rue de Grenelle). In general we don’t recommend est 38. Hermès (17, rue de Sèvres) stores in Paris. buying non-French goods that can be bought at Wander in even if you don’t plan to buy, because the home for less, but if you are tempted, go Italian! The architecture is amazing. There’s a terribly fancy place very French 52. YSL (9, rue de Grenelle) can be for ladies who lunch to have a small bite inside, but found across from Prada, so if you have a high credit bring a well-stuffed wallet if you want to be among limit, do stop in. them. Across the street is 39. Arnys (14, rue de 53. Sèvres), a classic French gentlemen’s shop (very Take a right at rue des Saints-Pères and ind Tara Jarmon (75, rue des Saints-Pères), a expensive). good stop if you’re drawn to an uptown look. Next Continuing along, you’ll see 40. IKKS (12, rue de door is 54. Sabbia Rosa (73, rue des Saints- Sèvres), a chain that carries hip and affordable Pères). She can outit you in some of the most beau- clothing for men and women. Across the street is 41. tiful undergarments you’ve ever seen, but it will cost Maje (15, rue de Sèvres), which carries new, trendy you. Across the street is 55. Baby Buddha (68, rue designs. Also on this street, visit 42. Mac Douglas* des Saints-Pères), a new store that we like for bo- (9, rue de Sèvres) for beautiful leather goods, and hemian-style accessories. Back on the other side of 43. Gérard Darel (12, rue de Sèvres), which carries the street is 56. Ventilo (71, rue des Saints-Pères), a more mature look and clothing for larger sizes. well known for blazers for the country gentleman with a serious bank account. Continue on rue de Sèvres and you’ll arrive back at the “Centaure” statue. For a chance to design For a much more rock-and-roll look, cross the street your own belt, visit 44. Losco (5, rue de Sèvres), again to check out 57. IRO (70, rue de Grenelle). where you can pick out the type of leather and buck- Continue along until you hit 58. Paul and Joe le you’d like to use. Now cross the street and go (62–66, rue des Saints-Pères), one of our favorite down the next spoke of the star at the Carrefour du French designers, which carries styles for kids as Croix Rouge, and turn to go down rue de Grenelle. well as mom and dad. At No. 69 you’ll notice a little As you circle around and pass rue du Four, you can black sign for 59. Y’s (69, rue des Saints-Pères); if take a detour to check out the very feminine looks at you’re interested in art and fashion, check out Yohji 45. Manoush (52, rue du Four) and 46. Repetto (51, Yamamoto’s more affordable designs. Next door is rue du Four), where you’ll ind those ballerina lats 60. Barbara Bui (67, rue des Saints-Pères), whose that are all the rage. vision is calmer yet still quite fashionable. Across the street, 61. Karry’O (62, rue des Saints-Pères) of- Once you reach rue de Grenelle, turn left and con- fers a varied collection of beautiful jewelry. Next door tinue down the street, passing the shoe boutique 47. is 62. Maison Fabre (60, rue des Saints-Pères), Tod’s (44–46, rue du Dragon) on the right. Farther well known for its leather gloves, which it has been down the street is 48. COS (3, rue de Grenelle), making since 1924. Continue along rue des Saints- owned by H&M, a good stop for eclectic and afford- Pères to boulevard Saint-Germain, passing 63. JC able designs. On the right side is the iconic 49. Sonia de Castelbajac (61, rue des Saints-Pères), known Rykiel (4–6, rue de Grenelle) ; the irst store is for for fairly outrageous designs for the untimid, and 64. enfants (children), and the second is for women. Zef (55 bis, rue des Saints-Pères), a cute stop for kids’ clothing. Next door is 50. Borsalino (6, rue de Grenelle), a 34 Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

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Turn right onto the famous boulevard Saint-Germain. 1014, it’s one of the oldest churches in town. Step in- At the corner is 65. Sonia Rykiel (175, boulevard side and have a look around. Back across the street Saint-Germain), where you’ll ind shoes and bags. To is 75. Louis Vuitton (6, Place Saint-Germain-des- the left before you turn you’ll see 66. Etro (177, bou- Prés); stop in if you must bring back a little some- levard Saint-Germain), a designer from Milan. After thing from the iconic brand. Continue north along the Sonia Rykiel shop, you’ll see 67. Ralph Lauren rue Bonaparte and pass rue Guillaume Apollinaire to (173, boulevard Saint-Germain), which houses a ind 76. Assouline (35, rue Bonaparte), a wonderful store as well as a café that is famous for its cheese- international book publisher selling its mark only. As burger. If you are missing a taste of home, stop in. you continue, you’ll see 77. Richart (27, rue Bona- Cross the street and you’ll see another 68. Gérard parte), which offers fabulously designed chocolates. Darel (174, boulevard Saint-Germain) store and On the right you’ll ind 78. Ladurée (21, rue Bona- 69. Façonnable (174, boulevard Saint-Germain), a parte), a good stop for pastries and tea or coffee. shop for the preppy set. Its world-famous macarons make a wonderful gift, but they don’t store very well, so pick some up right Next you’ll see 70. l’Ecume des Pages (174, bou- before you travel. levard Saint-Germain), one of the most beloved bookstores in Paris. Although most of the titles are in Before you reach Ladurée on rue Jacob, don’t miss French, you can ind some travel guides in English 79. Simrane (25, rue Bonaparte), where you’ll ind and some wonderful postcards. Then you’ll see the charming French linens, napkins and tablecloths. 71. Café de Flore (172, boulevard Saint-Germain) Turn right on rue Jacob. Our favorite shop here is and, after that, the café 72. les Deux Magots (6, 80. Maison Rustique (26, rue Jacob), which has a Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés); across the street is green facade and specializes in books about garden- the 73. Brasserie Lipp (151, boulevard Saint- ing and plants. For very rich kilims and French pot- Germain). These are three of the most famous cafés tery, stop at 81. Michèle Aragon (21, rue Jacob). If in Paris and perhaps the world. Each was made you want to return home with a piece of history, visit famous by the bevy of writers and historic igures 82. Librairie Signature (17, rue Jacob) and search who ate and drank there, including Chagall, Camus, for something signed by Dalí or perhaps a famous Sartre, de Beauvoir and, more recently, Depardieu, French écrivain (author). On the right side, ind 83. Harrison Ford and many others. Everyone seems to Michel Klein (9, rue Jacob), which sells items for have had a drink or a coffee at one of them. We, on men, women and children and is well known for its the contrary, don’t recommend them, because the cool glasses. At the end of the block, you’ll ind the prices are extremely high and the service often rude. two stores of 84. Pierre Frey (5, rue Jacob, and 1, They tend to be classic tourist traps resting on their rue de Fürstenberg), very well known for French laurels. That said, if you must say you were there, try fabrics. the Café de Flore, which is still frequented by Pari- sians and where the service is slightly less rude. You Take a right on rue de Fürstenberg and notice the can end your tour here with a drink. If you still have charming Square Fürstenberg, one of the most some energy, though, turn left at les Deux Magots sought-after places to live in Paris. If you want to and head up rue Bonaparte. stay here on a future visit, talk to our friends at Haven in Paris, who have a vacation rental on this Across the street you’ll see the 74. Eglise Saint-Ger- square. Eugène Delacroix lived here in the 1800s, main (3, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés). Built in and the 85. Musée Eugène Delacroix (6, rue de 35 Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved. Walk and Shop in Saint-Germain

Cont. Points of Interest Fürstenberg) is a small museum dedicated to his 1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice work. Located in his former home, it’s open daily 2. Café de la Mairie: 8, Place Saint-Sulpice except Tuesday. Tel: 01 43 26 67 82 3. Annick Goutal: 12, Place Saint-Sulpice Turning back toward rue Jacob, you can ind fun gifts 4. Comptoir des Cotonniers: 12, Place Saint-Sulpice at 86. Arty Dandy (1, rue de Fürstenberg). Turn 5. The Kooples: 74, rue Bonaparte right again on rue Jacob. You’ll come to a little square 6. Hervé Chapelier: 1 bis, rue du Vieux Colombier with a sphere-shaped fountain. Before that, on the 7. Pierre Hermé: 72, rue Bonaparte Tel: 01 43 54 47 77 left, you’ll ind 87. Jérôme Dreyfuss (1, rue Jacob), 8. Zadig et Voltaire: 1–3, rue du Vieux Colombier which carries some of the most sought-after bags in 9. Agnès B.: 6, rue du Vieux Colombier Paris. Across the street, the designer has another 10. Vilebrequin: 5, rue du Vieux Colombier store for men. 11. Agnès B.: 12, rue du Vieux Colombier 12. Au Vieux Colombier: 65, rue de Rennes Next to Monsieur Dreyfuss’s store is 88. Ollivary 13. Victoire Homme: 15, rue du Vieux Colombier (1, rue Jacob), a gallery specializing in midcentury 14. Marcel Lassance: 17, rue du Vieux Colombier antiques and found objects. Next to the gallery is a 15. Longchamp: 21, rue du Vieux Colombier 16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier: 21, rue du Vieux Colombier boutique of 89. Isabel Marant, a well-loved and hip Tel: 01 44 39 87 00 French designer, who is married to Jérôme Dreyfuss. 17. Le Bon Marché : 24, rue de Sèvres In her late 40s, she still looks 25! 18. Camper: 25, rue du Vieux Colombier A great way to end your tour is with un verre de vin, 19. Robert Clergerie: 5, rue du Cherche Midi so take a left on rue de Seine and then a right to ind 20. Maje: 6, rue du Cherche Midi 90. la Palette (43, rue de Seine). In the 1930s and 21. Gerbe: 4, rue du Cherche Midi ’40s, la Palette was frequented by artists such as 22. Poilâne: 8, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 48 42 59 Picasso, Cézanne and Braque. Before you reach the 23. La Cuisine de Bar: 8, rue du Cherche Midi resto, notice 91. Galerie Documents (53, rue de Tel: 01 45 48 45 69 24. Metal Pointu’s 13, rue du Cherche Midi Seine), which sells fabulous old French movie post- 25. Le Civette: 15, rue du Cherche Midi ers and other graphic art. Window-shop the galler- 26. Lilith: 12, rue du Cherche Midi ies you see along the street. If you continue on rue 27. Cotélac: 17, rue du Cherche Midi de Seine, you’ll reach the Seine and the Institut de 28. Cécile et Jeanne: 16, rue du Cherche Midi France as well as the beautiful Pont des Arts. 29. N. Villaret: 20, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 44 02 50 30. Le Cherche Midi: 22, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 48 27 44 31. Heimstone: 23, rue du Cherche Midi 32. Puyricard: 24, rue du Cherche Midi *A Girls’ Guide Travel Club Partner: All GGTP 33. Kamille: 1, Place Alphonse Déville members receive discounts at these and other loca- 34. *Lutetia: 45, boulevard Raspail Tel: 01 49 54 46 90 tions. For more information about the Girls’ Guide to 35. Le Bon Marché: 24, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 44 39 80 00 Paris Travel Club and the complete list of our 36. La Grande Epicerie: 38, rue de Sèvres partners (there are more than 200 restaurants, Tel: 0 1 44 39 81 00 shops, hotels, spas and more!), please visit 37. La Maison du Chocolat: 19, rue de Sèvres girlsguidetoparis.com/insider/member-beneits.php. Tel: 01 45 44 20 40