Editorial Views p.3 The Sideboard: Cookies p.9 Report From the Trenches: Summer Fancy Food Show, Part I p.13 From the Deli Bookshelf World Cheese Book p.18 Rules & Regulations p.21

Passport to Fine p.5 Volume 5, Issue 5 August 2015 FabriqueDélices French Artistry on the Shores of SF Bay www.gourmetbusiness.com home, situated just south just situated home, array of charcuterie. In fact, I recently I recently In fact, of charcuterie. array KDGWKHJUHDWSOHDVXUHRIYLVLWLQJRQHRI of authentic, producers the best-known States, in the United artisan charcuterie DQGOXFN\IRUPHWKH\DUHDVKRUWGULYH away from my of the San of Oakland, near the shores Calif. in Hayward, Bay Francisco began in 1985, set up Délices Fabrique RULJLQDOO\DVDVXEVLGLDU\RI6$3$5 in France the leading pâté producer throughout extended whose acclaim (XURSH6$3$5¬VDLPZDVWRUDLVHWKH TXDOLW\DQGDYDLODELOLW\RIFKDUFXWHULHLQ that a consumer for States the United ZDVJHWWLQJLQFUHDVLQJO\VDYY\DERXW in so- but whose choice gourmet foods, charcuterie called “authentic” French ZDVVRUHO\ODFNLQJLQ³DYRUWH[WXUHDQG FRQVLVWHQF\7RDFKLHYHWKLVJRDO6$3$5 VHQWWZR\RXQJPHQRYHUWRUXQWKH

cuiseur de or “cooker of meats,” but today but today of meats,” or “cooker it also refers to a shop (or department a shop (or to it also refers sells and/or that makes within a store) has been Charcuterie such products. in France a culinary art form considered and like the 15th century, least at since WKHFRXQWU\¬VIDPRXVO\XQJRYHUQDEOH QXPEHUDQGYDULHW\RIFKHHVHV)UDQFH DOVRSURGXFHVWKHPRVWGLYHUVHVHOHFWLRQ pâtés, terrines, meats, rillettes, of cured and . But one needn’t go to on an extraordinary feast to France Well-made charcuterie, whether it’s whether it’s charcuterie, Well-made the ideal picnic described at left, a for a glass accompany little something to or as an of wine at the end day, LQJUHGLHQWLQ\RXUIDYRULWHGLVKHVLV RQHRIWKHJUHDWMR\VRIPRGHUQOLYLQJ the world throughout cultures Many meats and of cured some form make of the traditions but it is to meat pastes, we word The turn here. that we France describe this to most use in our business charcuterie, of gourmet foods, category term the French from comes chair,

Fabrique Délices of SF Bay on the Shores Artistry French ~ Elizabeth David,

“An Omelette and a Glass of Wine” Wine” “An Omelette and a Glass of CHARCUTERIE in Aurillac or Vic-sur-Cère or some other small but Aurillac or Vic-sur-Cère in

By James Mellgren By A charcuterie A locally important town will possibly provide a pâté the like of which locally important town will possibly provide ham, a few slices of which or a locally cured you never tasted before, you will buy and carry away with a salad, kilo of peaches, bottle on a hillside and somewhere of Monbazillac and a baton bread, or close to a splashing amid the mile upon of golden broom waterfall you will have, just for once, the ideal picnic. 5 is originally chef charcutier- , president and co-owner of and co-owner , president The Key Players at Fabrique Délices at Fabrique Players Key The $QWRQLR3LQKHLUR DERYHOHIW  Poinsignon Marc 6pEDVWLHQ(VSLQDVVH DERYHULJKW traiteur and co-owner of Fabrique Délices, was was Délices, of Fabrique and co-owner traiteur he In 1979, born in Portugal near Lisbon 1961. he studied where Lenotre, L’école from graduated He then de la charcuterie.” and learned “l’art ZRUNHGIRUVHYHUDODUWLVDQDOFKDUFXWHULHVLQ)UDQFH MRLQLQJ6$3$56$LQ Fabrique Délices, was born in Meaux near Paris, born in Meaux near Paris, was Délices, Fabrique L’ecole from In 1984, he graduated in 1963. France, and learned a he studied where de Paris, Hotelière management and restaurant deal about hotel great for He then worked cuisine. as traditional as well VHYHUDOVWDUUHVWDXUDQWVLQ3DULVDQG/RQGRQ IURP%ULYHOD*DLOODUGHDUHJLRQLQ)UDQFHZHOO is talent. His passion its gastronomical for known cuisine. and authentic French making traditional for Area Bay the San Francisco When he came to KLVVWXGLHV 0%$ KHLPPHGLDWHO\IHOOLQORYHZLWK of the city and ambiance the cosmopolitan pursue the him to afforded opportunities the area at the San internship a yearlong culinary arts. After an take to he continued Marriott Hotel, Francisco LQWHUHVWLQWKHSURGXFWVVSHFL²FWRKLVUHJLRQLQ of sales the position of director He took France. in 1998. Délices Fabrique for and marketing YDULRXVRWKHUODXGDWRU\SUHVVWKH\KDYH UHFHLYHGRYHUWKH\HDUVIRURXWVWDQGLQJ of the go on a tour I got to products, IDFWRU\LWVHOI7KH²UVWWKLQJWKDWVWUXFN clean spotlessly the large, me as I saw are materials in which the raw rooms all sorts of delicious into transformed small the how was charcuterie, all larger it’s machinery is. Of course, but I had use at home, than one would for apparatus huge industrial expected FKRSSLQJEOHQGLQJVWXI²QJDQGVRRQ is that me the reason told Espinasse HYHU\WKLQJLVPDGHLQVPDOOEDWFKHV and quality and consistency, ensure to of a machine to that with the exception made are chop the meats, products hand. by entirely an like of course, use tools, They H[WUXGHUIRUVWXI²QJVDXVDJHVEDVLFDOO\ DVOLJKWO\ODUJHUYHUVLRQRIRQHWKDW use for mixer a KitchenAid attaches to of washing But the process at home. WKHFDVLQJV²OOLQJWKHPDQGW\LQJWKHP lengths is all done by the desired off to human hands. All the herbs and spices hand out and added by measured are whether it be products, the different to sec, rillettes, pâtés, saucisson of the other products. blanc, or any were of highly skilled workers Teams

³HGJOLQJFRPSDQ\0DUF3RLQVLJQRQDQG FKDUFXWLHU$QWRQLR3LQKHLURWRVHUYHDV &(2DQGSODQWPDQDJHUUHVSHFWLYHO\ Fabrique establishing successfully After for as the leading source Délices in the U.S., authentic artisan charcuterie purchased Poinsignon and Pinheiro in 1996, and Sébastien the company years two joined the company Espinasse head up sales and marketing. to later the to relocated has since business The a beautiful into side of the bay opposite QHZRI²FHDQGSURGXFWLRQIDFLOLW\ZKHUH the plant, and I met with them, toured of their a delicious tasting enjoyed PDUYHORXVSURGXFWV meeting in their spacious, sunlit After RI²FHWKHZDOOVRIZKLFKDUHFRYHUHG magazine articles and with awards, CHARCUTERIE 6 CHARCUTERIE

busy throughout the facility making at their newest addition, Bacon product or packaging them in Mousse, which made its debut a preparation for shipping them out couple of weeks later at the Summer into their distribution network. The )DQF\)RRG6KRZLQ1HZ

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well as their perfectly FULVSDQG³DYRUIXO Old World, Fresh. Pure. Cornichons. Traditional Flavor. Italian & Italian 100% pure, with no The team has been Style Cheeses. of a classic bistro additives or fillers. EXV\DGGLQJVHYHQ chalkboard menu. QHZYDULHWLHVWRWKH 3XHUWR5LFR7KH Marc, Antonio, line, and Sébastien Virgin Islands, Central Presented By KDVUHFHQWO\RYHUVHHQ Sébastien and the rest America, Indonesia the redesigning of RIWKHWHDPKDYHEXLOW and Asia. With their Unrivaled Market Leader With Over 60 Years of Experience; the packaging for the and maintained for smartly designed PProudlyrouddly SpanningSpanninng FoFourur GenerationsGenerations ofof FamilyFa entire line of pâtés and the past 30 years a new packaging, s 3UPERIOR1UALITY#HEESE3UP PRXVVHVGHYLVLQJDQ company that is one of new products and a s -ARKET,EADERSHIP-AR eye-catching, color- the crowning glories of commitment to quality the American gourmet $OM$OMESTICALLY coded series of labels and artisan tradition )NTERNATIONALLY)NTE WKDWHYRNHWKHLPDJH business, founded in the entire product on the principles of s 3TATE OF THE ART3TAT range, they are geared %QUIPMENT%QU outstanding, consistent to dominate this s 5NPARALLELED3OURCING5NP quality and unique, eye- business for another 6ERTICAL)NTEGRATIO 6 n catching presentations. 30 years and beyond. Their stable of award- s 3PECTRUMOF0RODUCTS3PE AT%VERY0RICE0OINTAT% winning products are DYDLODEOHWKURXJKRXW s WORLD#LASS0ROCESSINGOR the United States, $$ISTRIBUTION&ACILITIES

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