Cookies P.9 Summer Fancy Food Show, Part I P.13 World Cheese Book

Editorial Views p.3 The Sideboard: Cookies p.9 Report From the Trenches: Summer Fancy Food Show, Part I p.13 From the Deli Bookshelf World Cheese Book p.18 Rules & Regulations p.21 Passport to Fine Charcuterie p.5 Volume 5, Issue 5 August 2015 FabriqueDélices French Artistry on the Shores of SF Bay www.gourmetbusiness.com Fabrique Délices French Artistry on the Shores of SF Bay CHARCUTERIE Well-made charcuterie, whether it’s for the ideal picnic described at left, a By James Mellgren little something to accompany a glass of wine at the end of the day, or as an array of charcuterie. In fact, I recently LQJUHGLHQWLQ\RXUIDYRULWHGLVKHVLV KDGWKHJUHDWSOHDVXUHRIYLVLWLQJRQHRI RQHRIWKHJUHDWMR\VRIPRGHUQOLYLQJ the best-known producers of authentic, A charcuterie in Aurillac or Vic-sur-Cère or some other small but Many cultures throughout the world artisan charcuterie in the United States, make some form of cured meats and locally important town will possibly provide a pâté the like of which DQGOXFN\IRUPHWKH\DUHDVKRUWGULYH meat pastes, but it is to the traditions of away from my home, situated just south you never tasted before, or a locally cured ham, a few slices of which France that we turn here. The word we of Oakland, near the shores of the San use in our business most to describe this you will buy and carry away with a salad, a kilo of peaches, a bottle Francisco Bay in Hayward, Calif. category of gourmet foods, charcuterie, of Monbazillac and a baton of bread, and somewhere on a hillside comes from the French term cuiseur de Fabrique Délices began in 1985, set up chair, or “cooker of meats,” but today RULJLQDOO\DVDVXEVLGLDU\RI6$3$5 amid the mile upon mile of golden broom or close to a splashing it also refers to a shop (or department the leading pâté producer in France waterfall you will have, just for once, the ideal picnic. within a store) that makes and/or sells whose acclaim extended throughout such products. Charcuterie has been (XURSH6$3$5¬VDLPZDVWRUDLVHWKH considered a culinary art form in France TXDOLW\DQGDYDLODELOLW\RIFKDUFXWHULHLQ ~ Elizabeth David, since at least the 15th century, and like the United States for a consumer that “An Omelette and a Glass of Wine” WKHFRXQWU\¬VIDPRXVO\XQJRYHUQDEOH ZDVJHWWLQJLQFUHDVLQJO\VDYY\DERXW QXPEHUDQGYDULHW\RIFKHHVHV)UDQFH gourmet foods, but whose choice in so- DOVRSURGXFHVWKHPRVWGLYHUVHVHOHFWLRQ called “authentic” French charcuterie of cured meats, rillettes, pâtés, terrines, ZDVVRUHO\ODFNLQJLQ³DYRUWH[WXUHDQG and sausages. But one needn’t go to FRQVLVWHQF\7RDFKLHYHWKLVJRDO6$3$5 France to feast on an extraordinary VHQWWZR\RXQJPHQRYHUWRUXQWKH 5 CHARCUTERIE ³HGJOLQJFRPSDQ\0DUF3RLQVLJQRQDQG YDULRXVRWKHUODXGDWRU\SUHVVWKH\KDYH FKDUFXWLHU$QWRQLR3LQKHLURWRVHUYHDV UHFHLYHGRYHUWKH\HDUVIRURXWVWDQGLQJ &(2DQGSODQWPDQDJHUUHVSHFWLYHO\ products, I got to go on a tour of the IDFWRU\LWVHOI7KH²UVWWKLQJWKDWVWUXFN After successfully establishing Fabrique me as I saw the large, spotlessly clean Délices as the leading source for The Key Players at Fabrique Délices rooms in which the raw materials are authentic artisan charcuterie in the U.S., transformed into all sorts of delicious $QWRQLR3LQKHLUR DERYHOHIW chef charcutier- Poinsignon and Pinheiro purchased charcuterie, was how small the traiteur and co-owner of Fabrique Délices, was the company in 1996, and Sébastien machinery is. Of course, it’s all larger born in Portugal near Lisbon in 1961. In 1979, he Espinasse joined the company two years than one would use at home, but I had graduated from L’école Lenotre, where he studied later to head up sales and marketing. expected huge industrial apparatus for and learned “l’art de la charcuterie.” He then The business has since relocated to the FKRSSLQJEOHQGLQJVWXI²QJDQGVRRQ ZRUNHGIRUVHYHUDODUWLVDQDOFKDUFXWHULHVLQ)UDQFH opposite side of the bay into a beautiful Espinasse told me the reason is that MRLQLQJ6$3$56$LQ QHZRI²FHDQGSURGXFWLRQIDFLOLW\ZKHUH HYHU\WKLQJLVPDGHLQVPDOOEDWFKHV I met with them, toured the plant, and Marc Poinsignon, president and co-owner of to ensure quality and consistency, and enjoyed a delicious tasting of their Fabrique Délices, was born in Meaux near Paris, that with the exception of a machine to PDUYHORXVSURGXFWV France, in 1963. In 1984, he graduated from L’ecole chop the meats, the products are made Hotelière de Paris, where he studied and learned a After meeting in their spacious, sunlit entirely by hand. great deal about hotel and restaurant management RI²FHWKHZDOOVRIZKLFKDUHFRYHUHG They use tools, of course, like an as well as traditional cuisine. He then worked for with awards, magazine articles and H[WUXGHUIRUVWXI²QJVDXVDJHVEDVLFDOO\ VHYHUDOVWDUUHVWDXUDQWVLQ3DULVDQG/RQGRQ DVOLJKWO\ODUJHUYHUVLRQRIRQHWKDW 6pEDVWLHQ(VSLQDVVH DERYHULJKW is originally attaches to a KitchenAid mixer for use IURP%ULYHOD*DLOODUGHDUHJLRQLQ)UDQFHZHOO at home. But the process of washing known for its gastronomical talent. His passion is WKHFDVLQJV²OOLQJWKHPDQGW\LQJWKHP making traditional and authentic French cuisine. off to the desired lengths is all done by When he came to the San Francisco Bay Area for human hands. All the herbs and spices KLVVWXGLHV 0%$ KHLPPHGLDWHO\IHOOLQORYHZLWK are measured out and added by hand the cosmopolitan ambiance of the city and the to the different products, whether it be opportunities the area afforded him to pursue the pâtés, saucisson sec, rillettes, boudin culinary arts. After a yearlong internship at the San blanc, or any of the other products. Francisco Marriott Hotel, he continued to take an Teams of highly skilled workers were LQWHUHVWLQWKHSURGXFWVVSHFL²FWRKLVUHJLRQLQ France. He took the position of director of sales 6 and marketing for Fabrique Délices in 1998. CHARCUTERIE busy throughout the facility making at their newest addition, Bacon product or packaging them in Mousse, which made its debut a preparation for shipping them out couple of weeks later at the Summer into their distribution network. The )DQF\)RRG6KRZLQ1HZ<RUN Montitrentini entire operation was extremely Our banquet was accompanied by HI²FLHQWPLQXWHO\GRFXPHQWHG Fabrique Délices Cornichons (a must We M taly and carried out in a factory where for any charcuterie selection), slices ake Cheese in I RQHFRXOGOLWHUDOO\HDWRIIWKH³RRU of baguette and a delicious chilled let alone any of the stainless steel ERWWOHRI6DQFHUUHSURYLGHGE\ $VLDJR3URYRORQH9DOSDGDQD Since surfaces. It was a wonder to behold. Poinsignon who came out to join us. ,FRXOGKDYHEHHQLQ)UDQFH *UDQD3DGDQR(QHJR3DQQDUHOOR 1925 My other surprise was in the VL]HRIWKH²QLVKHGLQYHQWRU\ )DEULTXH'pOLFHVWRGD\PDNHVRYHU 3DQGL&DFLR&DFLRWWD)DUPVWHDG&KHHVHV which was quite small. Very little 150 different products including product is stored. The small batch Pâtés, Mousses, Saucisson Sec, manufacturing system allows them 0DJUHW'XFN&RQ²W5LOOHWWH*DUOLF to make product and send it out Sausage, Merguez, Saucisse de LQYHU\VKRUWRUGHU,QRWKHUZRUGV 7RXORXVH%RXGLQ1RLU%RXGLQ%ODQF ZKHQWKHLUSURGXFWVDUULYHDWDVWRUH DQGDYDULHW\RIRWKHURXWVWDQGLQJ WKH\DUHYHU\IUHVKDQGMXVWUHFHQWO\ gourmet foods. Some of my personal made, guaranteeing great-tasting, IDYRULWHVLQFOXGHWKH:KROH'XFN quality products and a longer shelf Foie Gras with Armagnac “Au life for the retailers. 7RUFKRQª6W\OH5LOOHWWHVGX3pULJRUG 5LOOHWHVGX3RUF3kWpGH The real treat came after Campagne Forestier, we were back in the Saucisson à l’ail (Garlic RI²FHDV(VSLQDVVHODLG Sausage) and, of course, out a smorgasbord Lagorai (La&gor&EYE) the aforementioned of products for pasteurized whole cow’s milk Bacon Mousse and tasting, including a aged 90 days the incredible fabulous Cured & Cured & Dried soft texture, deep, full flavor Dried Duck Salami Duck Salami, as and a sneak peek Monti Trentini USA, LLC Lincolnwood, IL Phone: 516-507-9658 7 FDVHDULD#PRQWLWUHQWLQLFRP0RQWLWUHQWLQLFRP Award-Winning Family of Italian & Italian Style Cheeses 0ARMIGIANO2EGGIANOs'RANA0ADANOs0ECORINO2OMANOs4RADITIONAL2OMANOs!RTISAN0ARMESAN CHARCUTERIE #OPPER+ETTLE0ARMESANs(ANDCRAFTED!SIAGOs3TRAVECCHIO0ROVOLONEs-ASCARPONE well as their perfectly FULVSDQG³DYRUIXO Old World, Fresh. Pure. Cornichons. Traditional Flavor. Italian & Italian 100% pure, with no The team has been Style Cheeses. of a classic bistro additives or fillers. EXV\DGGLQJVHYHQ chalkboard menu. QHZYDULHWLHVWRWKH 3XHUWR5LFR7KH Marc, Antonio, line, and Sébastien Virgin Islands, Central Presented By KDVUHFHQWO\RYHUVHHQ Sébastien and the rest America, Indonesia the redesigning of RIWKHWHDPKDYHEXLOW and Asia. With their Unrivaled Market Leader With Over 60 Years of Experience; the packaging for the and maintained for smartly designed PProudlyrouddly SSpanningpanninng FoFourur GGenerationsenerations ofof FFamilya entire line of pâtés and the past 30 years a new packaging, s 3UPERIOR1UALITY#HEESE3UP PRXVVHVGHYLVLQJDQ company that is one of new products and a s -ARKET,EADERSHIP-AR eye-catching, color- the crowning glories of commitment to quality the American gourmet $OM$OMESTICALLY coded series of labels and artisan tradition )NTERNATIONALLY)NTE WKDWHYRNHWKHLPDJH business, founded in the entire product on the principles of s 3TATE OF THE ART3TAT range, they are geared %QUIPMENT%QU outstanding, consistent to dominate this s 5NPARALLELED3OURCING5NP quality and unique, eye- business for another 6ERTICAL)NTEGRATIO 6 n catching presentations. 30 years and beyond. Their stable of award- s 3PECTRUMOF0RODUCTS3PE AT%VERY0RICE0OINTAT% winning products are DYDLODEOHWKURXJKRXW s WORLD#LASS0ROCESSINGOR the United States, $$ISTRIBUTION&ACILITIES WWWARTHURSCHUMANCOMWWWCELLOCHEESECOM 8 -!.5&!#452).'s#544).'s'2!4).'s3(2%$$).'s#5").'-!.5&!#452).' s #544).' s '2!4).' s 3(2%$$).' s #5").'s3,)#).'s3(!6).'s$%(9$2!4)/. s 3,)#).' s 3(.

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