Pristine Pacific Atolls, Still Largely Untouched by Man, Are Nonetheless

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Phoenix Islands Protected Area in Kiribati, anew World Heritage marine site, is the largest marine protected area in the Pacific

Butterflyfish in the Phoenix Islands Protected Area.

SPOTLIGHT | Phoenix Islands Protected Area Pristine Pacific atolls, still largely untouched by man, are nonetheless threatened by climate change First, the Tentative List Nations that have signed the World or some time now, the World Heritage Committee really proud. It gives agood example to other little coun- with cultural and medicinal values that face extinction on and the greatest bleaching on record occurred in 2002. Heritage Convention can produce a has sought to add marine sites, particularly Pacific tries.’’ Another benefit, he says, will be its raised profile, more populated islands. ‘‘Nowhere on the planet is safe from it,’’ he says, ‘‘but Tentative List of properties they F island locations, to its World Heritage list of 911 which could generate investment to help keep it intact. Kiribati, part of Micronesia, is an independent nation, PIPA is really in the hot seat for climate change.’’ are considering for future properties. With the inscription of both Papah¯anaumo- ‘‘Those who have apassion in preserving marine spe- 4,000 kilometers (2,500 miles) southwest of Hawaii. Its The government of Kiribati has shouldered an ambi- nomination to the World Heritage ku¯akea in Hawaii and the Phoenix Islands Protected Area cies may be willing to assist us now that we are 33 coral isles are divided into three groups: the Phoenix Is- tious program to preserve the Phoenix Islands. The nation List. It is an important step, (PIPA) in Kiribati this summer, the committee seems to recognized as World Heritage,’’ he adds. lands, the Gilbert Islands and the Line Islands. Located boasts few natural resources other than fish and copra, because no site can be considered have embarked on an era of vast ocean protection. This pristine archipelago sug- near the international dateline, it was the dried meat of the coconut. Yet it has exempted over for World Heritage Listing if it has The world’s second-largest marine protected area gests what reefs might have looked The site safeguards the first country to celebrate the third 150,000 square miles of its territory from fishing, which not previously been included on a (Papah¯anaumoku¯akea is third), PIPA is the biggest World like 1,000 years ago, before hu- millennium in 2000. Kiritimati (Christ- normally provides half its tax revenue from the sale of per- Tentative List, and also because it Heritage site —about the size of California and 6,000 mans left their mark. Part of what species that have yet to be mas Island) was discovered by Cap- mits. Instead, it plans to sign a‘‘conservation contract’’ AREA allows Unesco to anticipate sites meters (19,000 feet) deep. It is the largest marine pro- has kept it so immaculate is its isola- studied or even discovered tain James Cook in 1777. Robert Louis with the PIPA Conservation Trust, which was set up last that countries may want to submit tected area in the Pacific and the region’s first to include tion; until now, remoteness has been Stevenson visited in 1889; Charles year with the New England Aquarium in Boston and Con- one day. Tentative Lists contain the

such huge areas of deepwater habitat. Of its 400,000 its best protection. The only way to get there is to charter a Darwin published his theory of atoll formation after astop- servation International of Washington, D.C. The trust will PROTECTED property’s name, its geographical square kilometers (154,440 square miles), only 28 boat or private plane, or fly ascheduled airline to Fiji or over aboard the Beagle. Some researchers say Amelia create an endowment to not only finance amanagement location, abrief description and square kilometers are land. Its tiny islands, like all coral Samoa, then cross thousands of miles of ocean, which Earhart may have crashed in these reefs in 1937. plan, but also reimburse the government for earnings it will justification of the outstanding reef atolls in the Central and South Pacific, were takes days. Only one of its eight atolls (ring-shaped islets But Kiribati is also forecast to be among the first na- lose by the establishment of ‘‘no-take’’ zones for fish. The ISLANDS universal cultural or natural value seamounts, or underwater mountains, probably volca- with central lagoons) is inhabited. The untouched quality of tions to be swamped by rising sea levels caused by glob- trust is raising funds toward its target of $13.5 million. that might qualify the site for World noes, whose summits subsequently caved in. PIPA’s 14 the site means that it can serve as amodel for restoring al warming. ‘‘Climate change is certainly PIPA’s biggest The project was inspired by forest concessions, HOENIX Heritage. Nations may update them seamounts create aunique underwater environment. other, less unspoiled coral ecosystems. It is home to 200 threat,’’ says David Obura, the park’s chief scientist. where landowners are paid not to chop down trees. As /P at any time. Of the 187 countries Because the deep sea is largely unexplored, PIPA safe- species of coral and 500 types of fish. Ascore of different Obura first visited in 2000 and found the islands ‘‘unaf- long as the fish are untouched, the money remains in the that are signatories to the World guards species that have yet to be studied or even dis- migratory seabirds have so far been identified on its wa- fected by man.’’ When he returned two years later, trust, and Kiribati gets the interest. This ‘‘reverse fishing- Heritage Convention, 166 have covered. This makes it adistinctive addition to the 43 ters. PIPA’s marine bionetworks support fauna that have however, the coral-reef specialist was shocked at the license’’ scheme, the first of its kind, will compensate HALLOWAY submitted aTentative List.

marine World Heritage sites. vanished elsewhere in the Pacific, such as giant clams change. Coral bleaching had greatly altered the reefs. Kiribati annually for the missing income. Eventually, CAT For more information, visit Says Tukabu Terorako, PIPA’s director: ‘‘It’s great for and coconut crabs, or threatened species like the green Corals turn pale from warming sea-surface tempera- more than 25 percent of PIPA’s entire area will be desig- http://whc.unesco.org J.J. asmall island nation to have this inscribed, and we are turtle and the hawksbill turtle. It also protects rare plants tures, aresult of greenhouse gases and climate change, nated as no-take areas for fish. J.J.

EXPLORING | Kiribati WorldHeritagemarine conference held in Hawaii Dec. 1-3 Islands in the Pacific: Where the greatest adventure consists in getting there Jaeger-LeCoultre’ssupport for the nongovernmental organizations and Tides of Time program and marine the private sector. Akey focus of ravelers equipped with oceangoing ment within the Pacific and would be of huge veloped of Kiribati’s outdoor recreation op- 10-footers best tackled by experts. The surf World Heritage has in part made it Unesco’s World Heritage Marine boats —and the ability to navigate interest to any tourist interested in history.’’ tions. Anumber of Tarawa and Kiritimati out- season is October to April. Christmas Island possible for the site managers of Program is the promotion and T those craft to aremote corner of the Meanwhile, the rest of Kiribati is wide fitters offer cruises in search of marlin, tuna, Surf Camp’s weeklong packages include full Unesco’s World Heritage marine exchange of ideas among its marine Pacific —can visit the Phoenix Islands Pro- open for tourism. Air Pacific touches down at barracuda and other iconic game fish. The Be- board and daily boat transfers to the breaks. properties to meet, for the first time, site managers. This event gives them tected Area right now. They can dive lagoons Kiritimati (Christmas Island) on aweekly ser- tio Game Fishing Club in Tarawa sponsors With the PIPA opening up, scuba has abright in an exceptional conference in the chance to share management and reefs almost untouched since Euro- vice between Honolulu and Fiji; it also offers fishing derbies throughout the year and also future. Among the existing dive operators is Hawaii on Dec. 1-3. Jaeger-LeCoultre practices that have made adifference pean mariners first came across these direct flights between Fiji and Tarawa, the hooks up visitors with local fishing charters. Ocean Flower, which organizes local scuba has, from its founding in 1833, aimed at their locations, and to hear from mostly uninhabited landfalls in the 1820s, or capital. Air Kiribati provides regular service Kiritimati is known for having some of the trips in partnership with Kiribati Horizons. With to find abalance between growth others about conservation initiatives sit alone on abeach and feel what it might to other islands in the Gilbert Islands. region’s best surfing. Two dozen breaks on its mix of tropical fish and sunken war relics, and respect for nature. Its that have worked elsewhere and be like to be the last person left on earth. Scene of one of the bloodiest battles of the island’s northwest shore are washed by Tarawa Lagoon is the most popular dive spot. environmental awareness has led it, which they might want to try. The The rest of us will have to wait —the site World War II, Tarawa is rich in war relics that waves that roll across the northern Pacific al- It’s also possible to explore the underwater since 2008, to be an active backer three-day symposium will mark the is almost impossible to reach for those who can be explored on one’s own or with local most unimpeded, ranging from relatively mod- wonders of smaller islands scattered around of Unesco’s World Heritage Centre start of astronger community among can’t pilot their own craft there. ‘‘At present, guides. Sportfishing is probably the most de- est swells that are perfect for neophytes to Tarawa. J.R.Y. for the preservation of our marine marine World Heritage site managers. tourism within the PIPA is limited because of a legacy. These same principles have The conference will likewise allow lack of infrastructure and resources,’’ says Melody Taylor, ecotourism officer for the Visit the Tides of Time Web site prompted Jaeger-LeCoultre to marine scientists and site managers for videos, interviews and more support the Honolulu seminar. to explore the latest trends and Kiribati National Tourism Office. ‘‘We are information on World Heritage marine All 43 marine site managers have cutting-edge breakthroughs that designing atourism strategy plan to promote sites: whc.unesco.org/tidesoftime/ been invited. The meeting is co- might be of use in protecting oceans. tourism in an environmentally sound manner, organized by the National Oceanic The results of the conference will with controlled numbers allowed entrance.’’ 6E@AI ZB JE\AÔ 2DZA[EN 1I]=[@I 2HZJA?JA@ )HA= M=IFHZ@K?A@ >O JDA 106 +HA=JELA5Z]KJEZ[I @AF=HJ\A[J =[@ @E@ [ZJ Scuba, snorkeling and bird-watching will be E[LZ]LAJDA [AMIF=FAH’IHAFZHJE[C ZH A@EJZHE=] @AF=HJ\A[JIï 1J EI JDA [@ ZB =IAHEAI Z[ 7[AI?Z’I 9ZH]@ 0AHEJ=CA \=HE[A and Atmospheric Administration become part of an action plan to IEJAIï 6DA[ANJE[IJ=]]\A[Jò Z[ *=[? @’)HCKE[ E[ §=KHEJ=[E=ò ME]] >A FK>]EIDA@ Z[ ,A?ï 'ï 6DAIAHEAI EI =F=HJ[AHIDEF =\Z[C Office’s National Office of Marine chart new paths for marine World among the activities eventually offered within «=ACAHñ¨A+ZK]JHAò 7[AI?Z’I 9ZH]@ 0AHEJ=CA +A[JHA =[@ JDA 1[JAH[=JEZ[=] 0AH=]@ 6HE>K[Aï 6ANJ >O «¤507)«)§2¤¨ =[@ Sanctuaries and co-sponsored by 10 Heritage so it can play abigger role the area. In addition, says Taylor, ‘‘the cultural «¤5-20 4ï ;¤/-456ï .ZH E[BZH\=JEZ[ Z[ JDA 106 +HA=JELA5Z]KJEZ[I FHZCH=\Ô MMMï[OJE\AIC]Z>=]ï?Z\ organizations, including governments, in ocean conservation worldwide. J.J. background within this area demonstrates ancient Polynesian and Micronesian settle- Live the Tides of Time experience by scanning this QR Code with your smartphone. Be sure to first download aQRCode reader.

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