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Notes of a Journey in Yemen Author(S): Charles Millingen Source: Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society of London, Vol Notes of a Journey in Yemen Author(s): Charles Millingen Source: Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society of London, Vol. 18, No. 2 (1873 - 1874), pp. 194-202 Published by: Wiley on behalf of The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/1799976 . Accessed: 14/06/2014 01:25 Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at . http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp . JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. Wiley and The Royal Geographical Society (with the Institute of British Geographers) are collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to Proceedings of the Royal Geographical Society of London. http://www.jstor.org This content downloaded from 185.44.79.85 on Sat, 14 Jun 2014 01:25:26 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions 194 NOTES OF A JOURNEYIN YEMEN. [Feb. 23, 1874. producewhich are extremelyvaluable in manufacturesand commerce,would be broughtback in exchange. An idea of the obstructivenessand exactionsof the interveningtribes was affordedby the fact that, sixteen years ago, a puncheon of oil at the mouth of the Niger cost 4? tons of salt, while, at the confluenceof that riverwith the Chad, only 270 miles up, salt could be exchangedfor oil, weight forweight. Captain Crofthad established trading stationsas farup the riveras Egga, not farfrom the point whereMungo Park was last heard of. He had heard froma friendthat when he was at Bida (or Beda) in 1861, a caravan came in fromTripoli, and among otherarticles that were unpacked was loaf-sugarfrom Whitechapel. The course of tradenow is to send the sugar to the mouth of the Niger,and thenceup the riverto Bida, so that the ultimatepayment, instead of being in slaves to be sent northward across the Desert, is now made in merchandise,which is sent down the Niger, viz., palm-oil, Shea butter,ivory, native cloths, to which in time will be added indigoand other produce, especially such as can be raised with little skill and labour. The spiritedand patrioticefforts of Mr. MacgregorLaird had borne good fruit,for there were now threecompanies regularlyengaged in the tradeup the Niger,and CaptainCroft had made no less than six ascents duringlast season. Mr. E. Hutchinson said, that fromstatements which had appeared in the papers, the public might be led to imagine that the tradeon the Gold Coast was the whole,or nearly the whole, of the West Africantrade, but in reality it was only about one-fifth. From 1853 to the presenttime, the exportsand imports on the West Coast amounted to about 30,000,000?., and of that,. Asbantee took only about 5,000,0002. The survey of the Volta was very interestingfrom a geographicalpoint of view, but that river never could developea large trade. The fact was, that the Niger tapped all the trade that could possiblygo throughthe Asbantee country. It would be of greatpublic advantage if more attentionwere directedto the capabilities of the Niger. It was navigable as far as Boussa, and six or seven steamersevery year now carryon the tradefrom Liverpool. English principlesof commercialhonesty were beginningto prevail among the natives,and there could be verylittle doubt that a fairattention to the wants of trade,and the exerciseof British influenceand moral power,would succeed in openingup an extremelyprofit- able commercewith the districtslying to the northof the Niger and eastward to Lake Chad. 2. Notes of a Journey in Yemen. By Charles Millingen, m.d. Edinburgh. I will first describe the route between al-Hudaidah and Sana'a, the immediate object of my tour, and will then dwell at somewhat greater length on the tract of country travelled over on the return journey from Sana'a to al-Hudaidah by way of Kaukaban, Tawilah and the valley of the Eiver Sardud. Starting from al-Hudaidah, we followed the usual caravan route across the Tihamah, passing the villages of Marawah and Kuttay, and halting at Bajil at the foot of the hills. The Tihamah, or plain between al-Hudaidah and the hilly country, is about 30 miles in breadth: it is sandy, and slopes gradually toward the sea. The first half adjoining the coast is desert; the well-water is This content downloaded from 185.44.79.85 on Sat, 14 Jun 2014 01:25:26 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Feb. 23, 1874.] NOTES OF A JOURNEYIN YEMEN. 195 brackish, and the rainfall is scanty. The other half, however, from its vicinity to the mountains, participates in the frequent showers which fall on them throughout the year, and especially during the heavy summer rains. Hence cotton, dhurrah,and millet are extensively cultivated, as well as indigo, sdlab (a plant from the fibres of which are made the bags in which coffee is packed), and other useful plants in various parts of this portion of the plain. Date-trees abound in the neighbourhood of Zabid. As a natural consequence, numerous villages are scattered all over the plain, and the markets, which are held on fixed days at the various ham- lets, afford every facility for disposing of the produce of the land. Bajil, situated as it is at the entrance of the valley which is the highway to Sana'a, is a village of some importance, and is garri- soned by Turkish soldiers. Leaving Bajil, one proceeds in an easterly direction to the village of Buhay, in a valley at the foot of Jabal-Thamur, and soon after enters the Wadi Saham, bounded by Jabal-Buraah on one side and by the Haraz Mountains on the other. At Ubbal the road takes a north-easterly direction, and, leaving Jabal-Buraah, skirts the base of the Haraz Mountains, along the right bank of the Biver Saham as far as the village and military station of Sanfur. Crossing the stream at this spot, one leaves it to enter a narrow gorge several miles in length, in which are the caravan stations of Baitu-'sh-Shaikh and Saham. At length one leaves the gorges of the Jabal-Haraz and comes to open country at Mifhak, formerly an Arab shaik's stronghold, but since 1871 a Turkish fortress. The castle is on a basaltic rock, 200 feet in height. Another route, shorter by six hours, is sometimes followed from Bajil to Mifhak; it branches off at the village of Buhay, and, after many ascents and descents, leads to the large village and military station of Munakbah, in the Haraz district?Mifhak being distant 18 miles from it. The road along the Wadi-Saham is preferred by most travellers, as being less mountainous. Camels laden with merchandise invariably take the Wadi route ; on arriving at Sanfur, the camels of the Tihamah are exchanged for those of the Jabal, as the former, from their unwiekly proportions, are very liable to fall and sustain irreparable injury in the hilly eountrj*. The mountain camels are very different in appearance, and are light and surefooted. It is the same with the donkeys of the Tihamah and those of the Jabal. From Bajil to Mifhak, which must be about 2000 feet above the level of the sea, one rises higher and higher, but almost imper- ceptibly. At Saham and Mifhak the temperature was most agree- able, the nights cool, and the mountain air bracing. The country This content downloaded from 185.44.79.85 on Sat, 14 Jun 2014 01:25:26 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions lUb* NOTES OF A JOURNEYIN YEMEN. [Feb. 23, 1874. is everywhere green, well wooded in some parts, the hill-sides covered with shrubs, and the mountains, even the highest, are clothed with coffee-trees, Kdt, and cornfields. Acacia-trees of various species, tamarisk, tamarind, and many other trees, new to us, adorn the valleys. There are numerous species of euphorbiacege and asclepias. A remarkable tree is the Oleander obesum,growing on the rocky hill-sides: its trunk is like a huge pear or turnip, from which issue branches as thick as a finger. The natives call it Addnn (which means a dwarfish plant), and ascribe poisonous pro- perties to it. The flowers are smaller than the common oleander, of a rose colour, and possess a fragrant smell. In the Wadi-Saham we saw a few screw pines, Pandanus odoratissimus. The flowers are much prized by the Arabs, and they are in the habit of wear? ing them in the folds of their turbans, along with jessamine and other flowers. A tree called Thaluj, a species of Ficus, has large leathery leaves, and of all trees affords the most grateful shade. Between Saham and Mifhak there is an enormous Thaluj tree, many hundred years old. On the road between these two villages there is a small coffee plantation: they are the only coffee-trees that one sees between al-Hudaidah and Sana'a. Game, such as guinea-hens and red partridges, abound in the wooden ravines ; bustard are rare. The red partridge, called Kabj, resembles the European red-legged part- xidge : it is, however, much larger, and the plumage is different. It is widely distributed throughout Yemen and the Hijas. Gazelles and antelopes are scarce. As regards beasts of prey, such as leopards, hyenas, &c, we fancy that they have long since been exterminated; the country is everywhere cultivated, there are no forests,and man inhabits the most inaccessible mountains.
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