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Oman, UAE & Arabian Peninsula

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Oman, UAE &

Kuwait p78 p116 p46

Qatar United Arab Saudi p209 p284 Arabia p241

Oman p116

Yemen p362

THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Jenny Walker, Stuart Butler, Anthony Ham, Andrea Schulte-Peevers PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE

Welcome to Oman, UAE BAHRAIN...... 46 Bahrain Today...... 68 & Arabian Peninsula . . . . .6 ...... 47 History...... 69 Oman, UAE & Arabian Bahrain Fort Complex . . . . 62 People & Society...... 71 Peninsula Map ...... 8 A’Ali ...... 63 Arts...... 72 Arabia’s Top 15...... 10 Sar ...... 63 Environment...... 72 Need to Know...... 18 Fahd . . . . 64 Survival Guide ...... 73 If You Like ...... 20 Al- ...... 64 Riffa Fort ...... 64 ...... 78 Month by Month. . . . . 24 Bahrain International ...... 79 Itineraries ...... 27 Circuit...... 64 Failaka Island ...... 99 Al-Areen ...... 65 Expats...... 32 Fahaheel ...... 99 Tree of Life ...... 66 Al-Ahmadi ...... 99 at a Glance. . . 42 Oil Museum...... 66 Ras Al-Zour ...... 99 Island ...... 66 Wafrah Farms...... 100 Understand Bahrain. . . . 68 Entertainment City . . . . . 100 JOHN ELK /GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES /GETTY ELK JOHN © IMAGES /GETTY PREMFORS KATARINA

SHARQIYA SANDS, OMAN P155 JOHN ELK /GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES /GETTY ELK JOHN

AYJAH, OMAN P147 Contents

Al-Jahra ...... 100 Yitti ...... 142 ...... 167 Mutla Ridge ...... 100 Mayh ...... 143 ...... 169 Understand Kuwait . . . 101 . . . . . 143 ...... 170 Kuwait Today...... 101 Al-Seifa ...... 143 & Al-Ayn ...... 170 History...... 102 Qurayat ...... 144 ...... 171. People & Society. . . . . 106 Mazara ...... 144 Buraimi ...... 171. Religion ...... 107 Sur & the & Batinah Arts...... 108 Eastern Coast...... 144 Plain...... 172. Environment...... 108 Sur ...... 144 Sohar ...... 172 Survival Guide ...... 110 Ayjah ...... 147 Nakhal ...... 174 Park Wadi Bani Awf ...... 174 (Hawiyat Najm Park). . . . 147 OMAN...... 116 ...... 174 Road to Wadi Hoqain ...... 175 ...... 117 Jaylah...... 148 Barka ...... 175 ...... 141 Wadi Shab ...... 148 Sawadi ...... 176 ...... 142 Tiwi ...... 148 Damanayat Islands . . . . 177 Wadi Tiwi ...... 149 The Musandam ...... 149 Peninsula ...... 177 Ras al-Jinz ...... 150 ...... 177 Ras al-Hadd ...... 151 Khasab–Tibat Road . . . . 180 Al-Ashkarah ...... 151 The Musandam Al-Ashkarah to Khors ...... 181 Shana’a Road...... 152 Jebel Harim ...... 182 Jalan Bani Bu Hassan Rawdah Bowl ...... 182 & Jalan Bani Bu Ali . . . . 152 Dhofar, & Al-Kamil ...... 153 Southern Oman . . . . . 182 Wadi . . . . . 153 Salalah & Around. . . . . 182 Jaylah ...... 154 Ubar ...... 191 Wadi Khabbah & ...... 191 Wadi Tayein ...... 154 Hayma ...... 192 Al-Mintirib ...... 155 Jaaluni ...... 192 Sharqiya (Wahiba) Sands ...... 155 Understand Oman . . . . 193 Ibra ...... 157 Oman Today ...... 193 Sinaw ...... 159 History...... 194 Masirah ...... 159 People & Society. . . . . 195 & the Religion ...... 196 ...... 162 Arts...... 197 Nizwa & Around...... 162 Environment...... 198 Mountain Road via Food & Drink...... 200 Hatt & Wadi Bani Awf . . . 165 Survival Guide ...... 201 Birkat Al-Mawz ...... 166 GRAND MOSQUE, MUSCAT, ...... 166 OMAN P128 ON THE ROAD

QATAR ...... 209 ...... 210 © IMAGES /GETTY NIKADA Al-Wakrah & Al-Wukair. . . 226 Mesaieed ...... 226 Khor Al-Adaid ...... 226 Umm Salal Mohammed...... 227 Umm Salal Ali ...... 227 Al-Khor ...... 227 Al-Ghariya ...... 228 Al-Ruweis ...... 228 , Al-Zubara ...... 228 P291 Bir Zekreet ...... 229 Understand Qatar. . . . 229 Today . . . . .266 Sir Bani . . . . . 338 Qatar Today...... 229 History...... 266 ...... 340 History...... 231 People & Society...... 268 ...... 344 People & Society...... 232 Religion ...... 270 East Coast...... 344 Arts...... 233 Arts...... 271 City ...... 344 Environment...... 234 Environment...... 272 ...... 347 Survival Guide ...... 235 Survival Guide ...... 273 Badiyah ...... 347 Al Aqah ...... 348 SAUDI ARABIA. . . . 241 UNITED ARAB ...... 348 ...... 243 EMIRATES...... 284 Understand ...... 349 Camel Market Dubai ...... 285 History...... 349 & Races...... 250 Al Maha Dir’aiyah ...... 250 Resort & Spa...... 310 Government & Politics . . . 351 Sand ...... 250 Bab Al Shams Desert Economy...... 351 Resort & Spa...... 310 Hejaz...... 250 People & Society...... 352 Hatta ...... 310 Jeddah...... 250 Arts...... 353 Taif...... 256 Northern Emirates. . . . .311 Environment...... 354 ...... 311 Yanbu ...... 256 Survival Guide ...... 355 Sharjah Desert Park . . . . 317 Madain & the North...... 257 ...... 318 ...... 362 ...... 319 Al-Ula & Around. . . . . 257 Sanaʻa ...... 363 Madain Saleh ...... 259 ...... 321 Wadi Dhahr ...... 374 Khatt Hot Springs . . . . . 325 Asir...... 261 The Haraz Mountains Abha & Around...... 261 ...... 325 and Around...... 374 Farasan Islands ...... 265 Al Gharbia ...... 335 Shibam ...... 375 Eastern Province . . . . 265 ...... 335 Kawkaban ...... 375 Understand Liwa ...... 336 Thilla () ...... 376 Saudi Arabia...... 266 Abu Dhabi to Sila...... 338 Hababah ...... 376 Contents

UNDERSTAND

Oman, UAE & Arabian

ANGELO CAVALLI / GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES GETTY / CAVALLI ANGELO © IMAGES GETTY / ELK JOHN Peninsula Today. . . . . 412. History...... 415. The Culture...... 423 Hajj: the Ultimate Traveller’s Tale . . . . . 436 ...... 449 Flavours of Arabia...... 459 The Natural MUTRAH SOUQ, OMAN NAKHAL FORT, OMAN Environment...... 468 P138 P174

At-Tawila ...... 376 Tarim ...... 396 Al-Mahwit ...... 377 Wadi Daw’an ...... 396 Manakhah & Around. . . . 377 Understand Yemen. . . . 397 SURVIVAL Northern Yemen. . . . . 378 Yemen Today...... 397 GUIDE Amran ...... 378 History...... 398 Hajja ...... 379 Government & Politics . . .399 Safe Travel...... 476 ...... 379 Economy...... 400 Directory A–Z...... 481 Sa’da ...... 379 People & Society. . . . . 400. Tihama (Red Sea Religion ...... 401 Transport in the Arabian Peninsula . . . . 490 Coast)...... 379 Arts...... 401 Al-Hudayda ...... 380 Food & Drink...... 402 Health...... 499 Kamaran Island 380 ...... Survival Guide ...... 403 Language...... 504 ...... 381 Glossary...... 509 Beit al-Faqih ...... 382 ...... 382 Index...... 513 Al-Makha ...... 383 Southern Yemen. . . . . 384 ...... 384 Ta’izz ...... 385 SPECIAL FEATURES ...... 386 436 437 a journey of extreme significance, anticipated from childhood, a source

KAZUYOSHI NOMACHI / CORBIS © CORBIS / NOMACHI KAZUYOSHI of inspiration in adulthood and a comfort in old age. Expats...... 32 This is the story of hajj – the ultimate traveller’s tale. In the Beginning Books: Unlike most travellers’ tales that are ad hoc by nature, hajj is a highly Firsthand ritualised journey governed by tradition. Many aspects of the pilgrimage Accounts TALE TRAVELLER’S ULTIMATE THE HAJJ: Eastern Yemen ...... 388 observable today have easily discernible roots in the history of hajj. That of Hajj history can be traced to the story of Ibrahim (Abraham of the Old Testa- One Thousand ment), considered today as the founding father of the hajj tradition. The to Mecca: story goes like this. Ten Centuries of Travelers Writing About the Mus- The Search for Water lim Pilgrimage, During his lifetime, Ibrahim’s faith was tested many times. One trial in- Michael Wolfe, Hajj: the Ultimate volved taking his wife, Hajjar, and infant son, Ismail (Ishmael), to Arabia. 1999 Ma’rib ...... 388 Obeying Allah’s command to leave them in Allah’s hands, Ibrahim left The Hajj, FE Hajjar and Ismail in a dry valley with little food. Soon supplies ran out, Peters, 1995 and Hajjar began roaming the valley in a frantic search for sustenance. Eventually, failing to find anything, she fell to the ground in despair. Pilgrims today commemorate that search for water by performing the Traveller’s Tale. . . . . 436 sa’ee, walking seven times between the two hills of Safa and Marwah in Mecca.

Founding of Mecca HISTORY IN JJ HA ...... 390 Ismail was now crying from hunger and thirst, so Hajjar prayed to Allah for help. As Ismail wailed, he stamped his foot upon the ground and sud- denly up gushed a spring of water. They named the spring Zamzam and in time, caravans and nomads began to water their camels there. Soon a desert settlement formed around the well. That settlement was Mecca, and Zamzam is the only natural source of water in the city to this day.

Flavours of Rejecting Temptation Al- ...... 390 Ibrahim’s greatest trial was still to come. Allah commanded him to take his son to the mountains and there slay him. Determined to demon- strate the strength of his faith, Ibrahim obeyed the commandment but on the way to the mountains, Shaitan (the Devil) intervened, harrying, cajoling, taunting and mocking Ibrahim to give up his mission. On the Arabia ...... 459 point of despair, Ibrahim overcame his temptation by throwing stones at Shaitan. This act is commemorated today by the stoning of the jamrah (pillars) ...... 391 Hajj: the Ultimate in Mina today. Sacrice Traveller’s Tale When Ibrahim arrived at the appointed place with knife drawn against Anyone who counts themselves as a traveller can’t fail to be fascinated by hajj – the sin- his son’s neck, he was commanded by Allah to allow Ismail to live, and to gle largest annual travel event in the . In the of the , the sense sacrifice a ram in his place. of anticipation among the Islamic pilgrims, dressed uniformly in simple white robes, is This is remembered during Eid al-Adha (Festival of Sacrifice), when tangible as people congregate to perform this once-in-a-lifetime journey. all over the world perform a ritual sacrifice, usually of a cow, Safe Travel ...... 476 sheep or goat, which is then prepared for family feasting. Wadi Hadramawt . . . . . 394 Hajj in History Commitment to Pilgrimage Although only Muslims are permitted to participate in hajj, non-Muslims Ibrahim continued to visit Mecca. One day, Allah commanded him to travelling in the region at the time of the annual pilgrimage can’t help build a house of worship and called on all believers to make the pilgrim- Above Pilgrims at but be swept into the same sense of expectation and excitement as car Mecca age to Mecca. Ibrahim and Ismail constructed the Kaaba, a cube-shaped horns and gun fire crackle the air, signalling the passage of the faithful. building, for worship. Shibam ...... 394 It immediately becomes apparent that this is no ordinary journey – it is Sayun ...... 395 Oman, UAE & Arabian Peninsula & Dead Sea Turaif Tigris PALESTINIAN Al-Hadithah I R A Q TERRITORIES J O R D A N Suez Ma'an E G Y P T Gulf Sinai Aqaba Sakaka a Abadan of Suez b a q Haql Mt Sinai A Rafha f KUWAIT (2285m) o Bir ibn Himas lf u Al-Bad Al-Nafud KUWAIT CITY G Kuwait City Ash Shaykh Tabuk Iconic towers and Hamayd exquisite crafts (p82) Hafr Al-Batn H E J A Z Taima Dhuba Madain Hail Saleh

E S C A R P M E N Al-Ghazala Al-Ula Al-Wajh Al-Artawiyah Buraydah Ar-Rass Al-Majma'ah E G Y P T Dukhnah Sharqa Aswan S A U D I 24ºN T Medina Dir'aiyah A R A B I A Yanbu RIYADH Lake Nasser Al-Kharj 36ºE

Rabigh Zalim

Madain Saleh Saudi’s whimsical Layla answer to Petra (p259) Jeddah Mecca Taif A S I R R E D S E A Al-Shafa

20ºN M O U N T A I N S Al-Khamasin Sulayyil Port Bisha S U D A N Al-Baha

Jebel Soudah Khamis Mushayt Red Sea (2910m) Abha Spectacular underwater Al-Janoub snorkelling and diving (p274) Najran Sharurah Provisional Sa'da a 40ºE Jizan Wuday'ah Farasan Islands E R I T R E A Shaharah Old Saudi Arabi

Thilla Ma'rib Ramlat Haraz SANA'A as-Sab'atayn Mountains Al-Hudayda Y E M E N Al-Rawdah Sana‘a Zabid Ancient souqs in labyrinthine alleyways (p367) Ta'izz E T H I O P I A G U L F O F Aden 48ºE D J I B O U T I A D E N Bahrain Fort Sharjah One of Arabia’s The region’s densest thousand forts (p62) museum cluster (p311)

I R A N

Shiraz Dubai Burj Khalifa: the world’s Doha’s tallest building (p291) A modern miracle of reclaimed land (p214) Bandar-e Abbas Nairiyah Muscat Ras Musandam Encounter Islam in the Dhahran MANAMA al-Khaimah Peninsula Grand Mosque (p128) OMAN Al- BAHRAIN T H E Dibba Sharjah QATAR G U L F Ajman Fujairah Al- DOHA Dubai G U L F O F 24ºN Al-Hasa O M A N Sohar ABU BuraimiW DHABI e Barka Al Ain ts Tropic of Cancer er Haradh J n H ebe aj ras MUSCAT U N I T E D A R A B l Akhdar Ea tsre Jebel Shams nH E M I R A T E S a Sur Ras al Nizwa aj Hadd Liwa rs Sharqiya Khor Al-Adaid Sharqiya Al-Ashkarah Off-road adventure around Jebel Shams Sands inland sea (p226) Vertiginous views of Arabia’s ‘Grand Canyon’ (p167) S A U D I A R A B I A Island of 20ºN Masirah

The Empty Border Haimah Gulf of Quarter Duqm Masirah

Undemarcated O M A N Suqrah Bay Yemen Border Magical dunes fringed Saudi Arabia – Shwaymiyah with turtles (p155) Yemen Border – Dhofar Kuria Muria A R A B I A N S E A Islands Salalah 16ºN Sarfait t Wadi Al-Ghayda Ghubbat ELEVATION HadramawSayun al-Qamar Dhofar Shibam Ra's Fartak Groves of wild 2500m trees (p182) 2000m 1500m Qusay'ir 1000m 500m Al-Mukalla Shibam 0 Ancient origins of Bir 'Ali the (p394) 0 300 km 0 150 miles Socotra Island (Yemen) 52ºE 56ºE 12ºN 27

Itineraries

BAHRAIN OMAN

QATAR Dubai DOHA

MUSCAT Jebel Shams UNITED ARAB Bahla EMIRATES Nizwa Ras al-Jinz Sharqiya Sands

SAUDI OMAN ARABIA

2 WEEKS Best of Oman, UAE & Arabian Peninsula

For an introduction to the Peninsula that weaves between modern and ancient, begin your visit with two days in Doha, with its skyline of 21st-century architectural gems. Loiter with falcons in Souq Waqif and visit the exceptional Museum of Islamic Art to understand that the modern Gulf is built on inherited Arab values. Fly to Dubai for three days to see a city obsessed with the newest, the biggest and the best, and visit that totem of superlatives, Burj Khalifa. Resurrect the past in a trip along the Dubai Creek and visit Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood. Fly on to Muscat for two days for a low-rise, understated experience of modern Ara- bia, catching a show in the city’s magnificent Royal Opera House. See how 40 years of ‘renaissance’ has created a modern nation strongly underpinned by a respect for the past in a four-day tour of the heritage sites of Nizwa and Bahla. Forget history and think timelessness by hiking on top of lofty Jebel Shams, camel riding with the Bedu across Sharqiya Sands and watching turtles return to the beach of their birth at Ras al-Jinz en route back to Muscat. 28

KUWAIT KUWAIT CITY PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

BAHRAIN MANAMA OMAN QATAR I Dubai IE ARIES TINER Hawar Islands DOHA ABU DHABI Khor al-Adaid

UNITED ARAB SAUDI ARABIA EMIRATES Liwa Oasis OMAN

3 WEEKS The Gulf Experience

Spend the first four days in dry and traditional Kuwait City, learning the sensory vocab of Arabia – the haggling in Souq Marbarakia, the haunting call to prayer, the wafts of sheesha (waterpipes used to smoke tobacco) from outdoor coffeeshops. Add to the Ara- bian lexicon by tracing similarities between Peninsula cultures at Tareq Rajab Museum with its priceless collection of regional jewellery, costumes and manuscripts. Old Arabia is only half the equation: leave time to explore the urban landscape of high-rise towers – the quintessential icons of modernity in the Gulf – before flying to Bahrain for four days (political situation allowing). Oil is responsible for Arabia’s rapid propulsion into the 21st century: see how in Bah- ’s Oil Museum and enjoy some of the glamour of wealth at the Formula One racing circuit. Pearls gave the Gulf its former livelihood: buy a string at Gold City in Manama or dive for your own off the Hawar Islands before flying on to Doha for four days. Both pearls and black gold have helped Qatar, with its commitment to hosting inter- national sports, compete with the best. And what a venue Doha makes, with one of the most spectacular modern skylines in the world built on land reclaimed from the sea. Visit Khor al-Adaid in southern Qatar and watch the inland sea get its own back as it encroaches ever deeper into the interior sand dunes. You can continue to walk on water – or rather, on reclaimed land – in Abu Dhabi where you will spend the next three days discovering how and why it has become the cultural as well as the political capital of United Arab Emirates. For contrast with the high-voltage Gulf city, escape to Liwa Oasis for two days. Here life moves at the pace of a camel’s stride or a trade wind shunting sand across the tops of the dunes. Unless you’re a modern-day Thesiger, you’ll soon be missing the dynamism of the urban experience, and in this respect the best has been kept until last. Spend your final four days in and around Dubai, discovering what makes it the most internationally famous city of the region. Swim with dolphins, shop with sharks, view the city from the world’s tallest tower and dine underwater in the Gulf’s most ‘Yes we can’ city. 29 PLAN YOUR TRIP Itineraries

FRANZ ABERHAM / GETTY IMAGES ©

Oman Muscat,Oman Bottom: Royal Opera Bottom:Royal HouseMuscat (p127), Top: MutrahSouq(p138), Top:

TRAVELSTOCK44 TRAVELSTOCK 44 / GETTY IMAGES © 30

KUWAIT KUWAIT CITY

BAHRAIN OMAN PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN MANAMA QATAR Dubai

DOHA ABU DHABI Buraimi MUSCAT Al Ain Bat UNITED ARAB Ibri Nizwa Sur EMIRATES Ras al-Hadd Jabrin Bahla SAUDI

I ARABIA IE ARIES TINER

Masirah

Duqm

OMAN

Thumrait

Khor Rouri Mughsail YEMEN Salalah

5 WEEKS Pan-Peninsula: Five Countries in Five Weeks

Spend the first two weeks of the journey enjoying the Gulf experience with four days in each of the virtual city states of Kuwait City, Manama and Doha. Fly to Dubai and begin week three with your head in the clouds on top of the world’s tallest tower, the Burj Khalifa, or admire this Dubai icon from another symbol of the vertical, Burj al- Arab. Cruise the Dubai Creek to see how height dominates the city. Transfer to the UAE’s sophisticated capital Abu Dhabi: what the turrets of the Emirates Palace lack in height, they make up for in light bulbs. With the city-centric part of the journey over, escape to the starry skies and apricot- coloured dunes of Al Ain. Allow time to wander through souqs of grumbling camels and listen for the ghost of intrepid desert explorer Thesiger, commemorated in the fort museum. Begin week four by crossing the border via Buraimi to Ibri in Oman. This is the land of a thousand aged towers and fortifications, gracing mountain top and wadi’s edge, and it’s easy to feel the spirit of the ancients in their burial towers at Bat. Continue through the castle towns of Jabrin and Bahla to Nizwa where the mighty Jebel Shams towers over this heritage city. Take a complete break from the vertical by journeying across the edge of the Empty Quarter on the flat and utterly featureless highway to . The descent into Salalah, Oman’s southern capital, after 10 hours of stony-plain monotony is sublime, especially during the rainy season when the desert turns green. End week four among the frankincense trees near Mughsail and see where the precious resin was traded at Al-Baleed and the ancient harbour of Khor Rouri. With a car, begin week five by skirting the from Salalah (via Hasik when the coast road is completed) to Duqm, pausing for a night on floating hotel Veronica. Complete a lap of Masirah to understand the true meaning of the term ‘desert island’ before continuing along the auburn edge of the Sharqiya sands to Ras al-Hadd. Spend a day in Sur, where the lighthouses of Ayjah guide to safe haven, before heading to journey’s end in the hospitable city of Muscat. 31

KUWAIT

KUWAIT CITY Khasab Shams/Tibat OMAN TRIP YOUR PLAN Border OMAN BAHRAIN Jebel Harim Sharjah QATAR Dubai Sharjah MUSCAT Desert Park UNITED ARAB Dubai EMIRATES Jebel Akhdar UNITED Sohar SAUDI

ARAB I EMIRATES Sawadi MUSCAT ARABIA ARIES TINER

Rustaq Nakhal OMAN OMAN Salalah

YEMEN Mughsail

SAUDI ARABIA

5 Easy Escape from 1 Easy Escape from DAYS Dubai WEEK Kuwait

Leave the city for a gentler pace by head- For the complete antithesis of life in Ku- ing north to Sharjah with its historic wait City, take a three-centre trip to Oman wind towers of the Heritage Area and the and the UAE. Fly on day one to Muscat cultural riches of the nearby Arts Area. and be immediately struck by the more Arrive for lunch at Sharjah Desert Park tolerant attitudes towards dress and overlooking ostrich, and gazelle. On entertainment. Spend day two at a beach- day two, wind through the northern Emir- side hotel and enjoy a swim in a sea with ates to the Shams/Tibat border and waves, followed by sundowners and danc- enter Oman’s fabled . ing in a local nightclub. On day three, be Enjoy the spectacular drive along the cliff- reminded of what mountains and orchards hugging road to Khasab and time your look like in a day trip to Jebel Akhdar arrival for a snorkel and sunset cruise on and hike in that rare medium of pure, dry, a dhow in Musandam’s celebrated deep- fresh air. On day four, fly down to Salalah water khors (creeks). Spend day three where the subtropical climate, rich green- ascending by 4WD to Jebel Harim and ery (especially in summer), cooler climate descend to Rawdah Bowl for a picnic be- and more casual atmosphere will feel like side a ‘House of Locks’. Retrace your steps another continent. On day five, relax with to Khasab ready to board the evening fast a spa and fresh papaya at your seaside ferry to Muscat: entering Mutrah har- resort, go snorkelling or visit the spectacu- bour lit up with night lights is a magical lar blowholes at Mughsail, located in a experience. Visit Mutrah Souq and the old landscape untrammelled by oil pipelines quarter of Muscat on day four. On day five, and nodding donkeys. On day six, swap the head west to the old capital cities of Na- rural idyll for the urban wild side by flying khal and Rustaq with their magnificent into Dubai for some extreme shopping, forts. Break your journey back to Dubai at dining and partying. On day seven, button the beautiful beach resort at Sawadi or up the for the return to a very differ- stretch into an extra day by staying over- ent Gulf experience in Kuwait. night at the growing town of Sohar. On the Road

Kuwait p78 Oman Bahrain p116 p46

Qatar United Arab Saudi p209 Emirates p284 Arabia p241

Oman p116

Yemen p362

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