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Behind the Scenes

Behind the Scenes

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Behind the Scenes

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chapter. The current security issues in OUR READERS sadly meant I was unable to visit Yemen for this Many thanks to the travellers who used the edition. Therefore, extra big thanks must go to last edition and wrote to us with helpful my friend in Sana‘a Shakib Al-Khayyat of hints, useful advice and interesting Travel & Tourism who helped me remotely anecdotes: update Sana‘a and some surrounding areas. Sergio Boccia, Vicky Challacombe, Laurent Big thanks to Jenny Walker and Ilaria Walker for Duffault, Jonathan Foreman, Mario Giaquinto, patience and, finally, as always, thanks to my Pj Henry, Maarten Jan Oskam, Julian Lloyd, wife Heather, young son Jake and the new baby Barney Smith, John Soar, Jeremy Vera and who (unlike Jake) waited until after hand-in day Peter Voelger. to be born! Anthony Ham AUTHOR THANKS Thanks to Ilaria Walker for putting her trust in me and to Jenny Walker for sound advice. Jenny Walker Thanks also to a number of people within Saudi I am grateful to Her Excellency, Maitha Al- Arabia who helped me gather information – Mahrouqi, Undersecretary, Ministry of Tourism, they have asked to remain anonymous. , for sharing her valuable time, to Mr Peter Keage, Advisor to HE at MoT, and Mr Hus- Andrea Schulte-Peevers sain Ahmed Al-Farsi, Campus Manager at CCE Big thanks to the many wonderful people for their kind facilitation. Guidebooks are team who plied me with tips, insights and ideas efforts: thanks to fellow authors Andrea, Stuart and/or opened doors, including Wendy Mervis, and Anthony, and LP HQ staff, especially super- Katie Foster, Tammy Gan, Sara Gacem, Katie supportive CE, Ilaria Walker. To my husband, King, Sarah Hameister, Nina Rezec, Bassam travelling companion, research guru and most Kundakci, Yasmin Hussein and Kiran Kor. beloved Sam Owen, thanks simply don’t sum it Heartfelt thanks to David for his patience and up. Suffice to say, without him, my part in this support and for braving the mad traffic, edition would not have materialised. the world’s fastest roller coaster and various other challenges. Stuart Butler I’m indebted to many people for their advice, help and encouragement with my Yemen 512 ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633¬44.

B Cover photograph: Guide relaxing on dune. E

H Sharqiya (Wahiba) Sands, Ash Sharqiyah, I

ND TH ND Oman, Middle East, John Elk/Gettyimages © E S CE N E S

Commissioning Editor Cover Research THIS BOOK Ilaria Walker Naomi Parker This 4th edition of Lonely Coordinating Editor Internal Image Research Planet’s Oman, UAE and Luna Soo Kylie McLaughlin guidebook Coordinating Carto- Assisting Cartographers was researched and written by graphers Anthony Phelan, Laura Matthewman, Xavier Jenny Walker, Stuart Butler, Andrew Smith di Toro Anthony Ham and Andrea Coordinating Layout Language Content Schulte-Peevers. The previ- Designer Joseph Spanti Branislava Vladisavljević ous edition was written by Jenny Walker, Andrea Schulte- Managing Editors Annelies Thanks to Shahara Ahmed, Peevers, Stuart Butler and Iain Mertens, Angela Tinson Brigitte Ellemor, Ryan Evans, Shearer. Managing Cartographers Larissa Frost, Jane Hart, Gene- sys , Jouve India, Andi This guidebook was com- Alison Lyall, Adrian Persoglia Jones, Indra Kilfoyle, Trent missioned in Lonely Planet’s Managing Layout Paton, Dianne Schallmeiner, ­Melbourne office, and pro- Designer Chris Girdler Kerrianne Southway, John duced by the following: Anne Assisting Editors Taufa, Gerard Walker, Juan Mason, Kate Morgan, Winata Alan Murphy, Charlotte Orr, ­Monique Perrin 513

Index

ABBREVIATIONS accommodation 481, 483, Al-Hudayda (Y) 380 aquariums see also individual Al-Jahra (K) 100 Dubai (UAE) 294, 295, 21 B locations Al-Jasra (B) 64 City (K) 85 K Kuwait language 504-5 Al-Jazeera 230 (UAE) 314-15 O Oman activities 24-6, 484, see Al-Kaf Palace (Y) 396 Arab Fund Building (K) 90-1 Q Qatar also individual activities, SA individual locations Al-Kahil (O) 189 Arab Spring 412-13, 476-78 UAE United Arab. Ad-Diraz Temple (B) 63 Al-Kamil (O) 153 Kuwait 101 Emirates (Y) 386-8 Al-Khaldiyah (O) 181 Oman 193 Y Yemen ‘Adites 394, 396 Al-Khor (Q) 227 Qatar 229 AIDS 501 Al-Khurayba (Y) 397 Saudi Arabia 266 air travel 490-1, 492 Al-Khutayb (Al-Hoteib) Yemen 397-8 A (Y) 377 Arabian oryx 65, 192-3, 199, A’Ali (B) 63 airlines 492 Al-Khuwair (O) 127-8 200, 272 A’Ali Burial Mounds (B) 63 Ajman (UAE) 318-19, 318 Al-Korar House (B) 67 Arabia’s Centre (UAE) 340-4, Abdullah Al-Zayed House 341 Al-Mahrouqi, Maitha 134-5 (UAE) 317 (B) 67 Al Aqah (UAE) 348 Al-Mahwit (Y) 377 language 504-10 abeyya 428 Al Fahidi Historical. Al-Makha (Y) 383 archaeological , Abha (SA) 261-4, 262 Neighbourhood (UAE) Al-Mashhad (Y) 397 see also museums (UAE) 325-35, 290-1 Al-Masjid Al . Ajman (UAE) 318 326-7 Al Maha Desert Resort & (SA) 445 accommodation 330 Spa (UAE) 310 Al-Memkab (Y) 382 (UAE) 340 activities 329 Al Noor (UAE) 315 Al-Mintirib (O) 155 Al-Oraifi Museum (B) 68 children, travel with 333 Al Qasba (UAE) 314 Al-Muhdar Mosque (Y) 396 Al-Ula Museum of. drinks 332-3 Al-Ahgaf . Archaeology &. Library (Y) 396 Al- (Y) 390 emergency services 334 Ethnography (SA) 257 Al-Ahmadi (K) 99 Al-Qaeda 230, 266, 268, 271, entertainment 333 Bait al-Baranda (O) 123 Al-Areen (B) 65 378, 404, 406, 414 festivals & events 329-30 Bidaya Museum (O) 155 Al-Asha’ir Mosque (Y) 383 Al-Qurain Martyrs’ Museum food 331-2 (K) 91, 104 Museum (UAE) Al-Ashkarah (O) 151-2 344 itineraries 329 Al-Ruweis (Q) 228 Al-Ayn (O) 170-1 Hatta Heritage Village medical services 334 Al-Saleh Mosque (Y). Al-Bustan (O) 126 (UAE) 310-11 nightlife 332-3 368-9 alcohol 47, 79, 111, 117, 210, Museum of the Frankin- orientation 334 Al-Sauds 267 353, 356, 461-2 cense Land (O) 183-4 postal services 334 Al-Seifa (O) 143 Al-Corniche (Q) 214-15, 16 National Museum of Ras shopping 333 Al-Soudah (SA) 264 Al-Faisaliah Tower (SA) 243 Al Khaimah (UAE) 321 sights 325-8 Al-Tayibat City Museum for Al Gharbia (UAE) 335-9 Sharjah Archaeological tourist information 334 International Civilisation Museum (UAE) 314 Al-Ghariya (Q) 228 tours 329 (SA) 250, 252 Sharjah Museum of Al-Ghubrah (O) 128 travel to/from 334-5 Al-Thani 231-2 Islamic Civilisation Al-Hajjarah (Y) 378 travel within 335 Al-Ula (SA) 257-8 (UAE) 314 Al-Hajjarayn (Y) 397 Abu Dhabi Film Festival Al-Wahhab, Mohammed ibn Umm Al Quwain Museum Al-Hamra (O) 164 (UAE) 329 Abd 267 (UAE) 319 Al-Hazm (O) 175 Abu Dhabi Grand Prix. Al-Wakrah (Q) 226 Granary Museum (UAE) 330 Al-Hofuf (SA) 265 Al-Wukair (Q) 226 (Y) 383 Al-Hoota (O) 164 Al-Zubara (Q) 228 archaeological sites 14, 63, Al-Hoteib (Al-Khutayb) Amran (Y) 378-9 see also petroglyphs, ruins, tombs Map Pages 000 (Y) 377 see individual Photo Pages 000 Al-Houthis 378 animals, wildlife A’Ali Burial Mounds (B) 63 514 archaeological sites ‘Arsh Bilqis (Y) 389-90 smoking 76 Bin Majid, Ahmed 194 continued art 215, 253, 298, 300, telephone services 75-6 Bir Zekreet (Q) 229 Al-Baleed (O) 183-4 315, see also galleries, travel seasons 46 bird watching Barbar (B) 63 travel to/from 76-7 Al-Areen Wildlife Park & Jaylah (O) 154 arts 429-33, see travel within 77 Reserve (B) 65 Jubba (SA) 249 also dance, poetry, Al-Ghariya (Q) 228 theatre, individual visas 76 I Madain Saleh (SA) Al-Khor (Q) 227 ND locations water, drinking 60 259-61, 14 weights 76 Al-Reem Tours (B) 53 E Asir (SA) 261-5 Old Ma’rib 390 X X Asir National Park (SA) women travellers 76 Al-Wakrah (Q) 226

A- Qal’at al-Bahrain (B) 62  264 Bahrain Fort Complex Khor Kalba (UAE) 348

B Qalhat (O) 149-50  As-Sawdah Cable Car (B) 62 Job’s Tomb (O) 187 Safa’iq (O) 160 (SA) 264 Bahrain International Masirah (O) 159-62 Sar (B) 63 Ath-Thowra Circuit (B) 64-5 (O) 129 Sheba’s Palace (UAE) 323 (O) 174 Wildlife Sumhuram Archaeologi- ATMs 483 (B) 49 Sanctuary (UAE) 304 cal Park (O) 187-8 At-Tawila (Y) 376 (O) 142 (Y) 393 Ubar (O) 191, 194 Temple (Y) 390 Bandar Khayran (O) 143 Umm Al Quawain (UAE) architecture 15, 22, 431-3, Ayjah (O) 147 baobab trees (O) 190 319 see also castles, Barbar (B) 63 birds 199, 224, 235, 273, forts, historic buildings, ayns 187 275, 393 , palaces bargaining 485, 487 falcons 216, 217, Al-Faisaliah Tower (SA) Barka (O) 175-6 25 243 B Baron Inverdale 160 flamingos 68, 226, Bab Al Shams Desert. (O) 170-1 304, 319 Arab Fund Building Resort & Spa (UAE) 310 (K) 90-1 bathrooms 488 Birkat Al-Mawz (O). Badiyah (UAE) 347 166 bait al qufl (house of Battle of Mirbat 188 Bahla (O) 169-70 boat travel 491, see locks; O) 178, 182 Bayt al-Afreet (Sinkhole Bahrain 42, 46-77, , also dhow travel Burj Al Arab (UAE) 295 48 50-1 Park) (O) 147 accommodation 73, 74 Ajman (UAE) 319 Burj Khalifa (UAE) 11, beaches activities 74 Khasab (O) 178 291-3, 11 Ajman (UAE) 318 arts 72 (B) 53-4 houses (SA) 253 Al Aqah (UAE) 348 basics 18-19 Muscat (O) 130 gypsum 235 Al-Jazayer (B) 65 books 74 books house of locks (bait al Al-Ruweis (Q) 228 qufl) (O) 178, 182 budget 47, 73, 75 Arabian arts 431 Al-Seifa (O) 143 House of Mirrors (K) 91 children, travel with. Bahrain 74 Al-Wakrah (Q) 226 Kingdom Tower (SA) 243 52 food 464 Dubai (UAE) 302 17, 85, climate 46 437, 439, 442 Jebel Dhanna (UAE) 338 90, 17 culture 46, 71-2 health 500 Jissah (O) 142 Liberation Tower (K) customs regulations 74 history 418, 422 89, 90 Katara (Q) 218 dangers 57 457, 458 (UAE) 331 Mesaieed (Q) 226 drinks 47 Kuwait 110 mud houses (O) 158, Mirbat (O) 188 environment 72-3 language 430 159, 164 Mirfa (UAE) 338 exchange rates 47 Oman 202 Naseef House (SA) 253 Muscat (O) 129 food 47, 75 Qatar 236 National Assembly. Qurayat (O) 144 highlights 48 Saudi Arabia 270, 271 Building (K) 89, 90 Qurm (O) 127 history 69-70 Sharjah International Oman 197-8 Salalah (O) 187 internet access 75 Book Fair (UAE) 315 Royal Opera House. (O) 141 Muscat (O) 127-8, 29 internet resources 47 The Thousand and One Sohar (O) 173 Sa’da (Y) 379 itineraries 47 Nights 431 Yitti (O) 142 Saudi Arabia 271-2 maps 75 women 427 Bedouin customs 425, measures 76 Yemen 403-4 Sharq Souq (K) 90 428, 430 media 76 border crossings 491, 493 Shorbatly House (SA) 253 Bedouin people 269, 424-5 money 75 Al Mudeef crossing tower houses (Y) 370, Beit al-Faqih (Y) 382 371, 378 nature 46 (UAE/O) 340 Beit Isa Bin Ali wind towers 89, 217, opening hours 75 Al-Darah/Tibat (UAE/O) (B) 66-7 180 431, 433 photography 75 bicycle travel, see cycling Hili 340 (UAE/O) Yemen 401-9 politics 68-9 Bilad al-Sifah (O) 164 Shams/Tibat 324, 360 postal services 75 Bilad Sayt (O) 165 (UAE/O) Map Pages 000 public holidays 75 Bilqis Palace (‘Arsh Bilqis; Photo Pages 000 safety 57, 476 Y) 389-90 359-60 515 Wajaja & Khatmat. children, travel with 37, see desert camps dolphin watching 202, 484 Milahah 178 (O/UAE) also individual locations driving to 158 Bandar Jissah (O) 142 break-bone fever 500 health 502 Khor Al-Adaid (Q) 226-7 Manama (B) 53 Bridge to Nowhere (K) 100 food 465 Liwa (UAE) 337 Muscat (O) 130 (K) 101 Children’s Farm (UAE) 317 Ras Al Khaimah (UAE) Musandam Khors (O) 181 budgets 19, see also Children’s Museum (O) 138 322 dress, see clothing

individual countries Christmas 39 Sharqiya Sands (O) I drinks 460-2, see also al- ND bull butting 175-6, 347 civil war 397, 398-9 156-7 cohol, coffee, individual E

Buraimi (O) 171-2, 341 climate 18, 24-6, 479, see dewaniya 105, 429 locations X

Burj Al Arab (UAE) 295 also individual countries Dhofar (O) 182-93 language 505  B-E Burj Khalifa (UAE) 11, acclimatising to 33 dhow travel 178, 181,. driving, see car travel, four-  291-3, 11 clothing 41, 428-9 217-18, 332, 484 wheel driving BurJuman (UAE) 307 coffee 384, 461 dhows 85, 91, 96, 145-6 Dubai (UAE) 288-310, burka 428 consulates 482, see also diarrhoea 502 288-9, 292-3, 296-7 bus travel 491, 493-4, 497 embassies Dibba (UAE) 348-9 accommodation 298-301 courses Dickson, Colonel Harold85 activities 295-8 arts 53, 92 diphtheria 500 children, travel with 306 C Bedouin crafts 92 Dir’aiyah (SA) 250, 251 drinks 305 cabs 497-8 language 53, 130, 218 disabilities, travellers with emergency services307 433 sailing 218 488-9 entertainment 305-6 camel racing 434 crab hunting 319 dishdasha 428 festivals & events 298 Kuwait 100 crafts 431 diving 14, 484 food 301-4 Qatar 227 Bahrain 61, 64, 67, 72 Al Aqah (UAE) 348 itineraries 290 Saudi Arabia 250, 257 courses 92 Damanayat Islands medical services 307 Oman 155 Kuwait 89 (O) 177 money 307 United Arab Emirates Farasan Islands (SA) 265 nightlife 305 336, 354 Oman 137-8, 170, 197, 204 Khasab (O) 179 postal services 307 camels 338 Qatar 234 Mirbat (O) 188, 190 shopping 306-7 markets 250, 340-1 Saudi Arabia 252 Muscat (O) 130 sights 290-5 festivals 335 shops & souqs 157, 162, Salalah (O) 184 tourist information 307 riding 176, 392, 484 173, 186, 262, 393 Saudi Arabia 274-5 tours 298 camping 483, see also United Arab Emirates Sawadi (O) 176 desert camps travel to/from 308 327-8 Socotra (Y) 391 car racing 24, 64-5, 329, travel within 308-10 Yemen 382, 393 330 United Arab Emirates Dubai International Film credit cards 485 350 car travel 491, 494, 496, Festival (UAE) 298 see also four-wheel culture 423-35, see also Yanbu (SA) 256-7 Dubai Mall (UAE) 293-4, driving individual countries (Q) 16, 212-25, 212-13 306, 21 accidents 478 customs 423, 429, 453 accommodation 220-1 Dubai Marina (UAE) 295, car hire 494 customs regulations 481, activities 217-18 301, 303-4 see also individual carnet de passage 496 children, travel with 220 Dubai Shopping Festival countries desert driving 17, 155-7, dangers 224 (UAE) 24 cycling 142, 169, 492-3 495 drinks 222-3 Duqm (O) 189, 191-2 driving licences 494 emergency services 224 insurance 494 D entertainment 223 E road rules 496 Damanayat Islands (O) 177 festivals & events 218-19 economy 414, see also carnet de passage 496 dance food 221-2 individual countries cash 485 Oman 197 history 214 Eid al-Adha 486 castles 20 Qatar 234 internet access 224 Eid al-Fitr 486 Bilad Sur Castle (O) 145 UAE 354 medical services 224 electricity 482 Castle (O) 171 Yemen 401 money 224 Elephant Rock (SA) 258-9 Jabrin Castle (O) 170, 21 dangers, see safety, nightlife 222-3 embassies 482 Khmazera Castle (O). bites, women travellers, postal services 225 Bahrain 74 individual locations 178 shopping 223-4 Kuwait 111 Dar al-Hajar (Y) 374 Sunaysilah Castle sights 214-17 Oman 202-3 Dar Island (B) 68 (O) 145 telephone services 225 Qatar 236 dengue fever 500 Taqah Castle (O) 187 tourist information 225 Saudi Arabia 275 desert 11, 22, 469 154, 164, 190 tours 218 United Arab Emirates driving 17, 155-7, 495 caving 201-2, 392 travel to/from 225 356 cell phones 488 environmental issues Yemen 405 470 travel within 225 516 emergencies 502, 506, see Abu Dhabi Film Festival (O) 169 geological sites 175 also individual locations (UAE) 329 Bahrain Fort Complex 62 geology 468 Emirates National Auto Al Dhafra Camel Festival Bukha Fort (O) 180 Ghala (O) 128 Museum (UAE) 336 (UAE) 335-6 Buraimi (O) 171 golf 74, 218, 484 Emirates Palace (UAE) Al Gharbia Watersports Doha Fort (Q) 216 Great Ma’rib Dam (Y) 325-6 Festival (UAE) 338 Fujairah Fort (UAE) 388, 389

I Empty Quarter (Rub. Hala Festival (K) 92-3 344-5 90, 100, 109 ND al-Khali) tours 188, 274 Jenadriyah National Husn Thilla (Y) 376 gutra 428 E Entertainment City (K) 100 Festival (SA) 243, 246

X X Khasab Fort (O) 177-8 environment 468-74, see Liwa Date Festival (UAE) (E- also individual countries 337 Masmak Fortress (SA  H 243 H  environmental issues 470, Liwa International Hababah (Y) 376 Nakhal Fort (O) 174 472-4 Festival (UAE) 337 Habalah (SA) 264-5 Fort (O) 162, Bahrain 73 Salalah Tourism Festival 17 Hajar (O) 169 (O) 184 Qal’at al-Bahrain (B) 62 Kuwait 109-10 hajj 436-48, 452, 436, Qala’at Arad (B) 68 Oman 199-200 Sharjah Biennial (UAE) 438, 441, 443, 447 315 Riffa Fort (B) 64 Qatar 235 books 437, 442 Sharjah International Rustaq Fort (O) 174 Saudi Arabia 273 calendar 444 Book Fair (UAE) 315 Sheba’s Palace (UAE) United Arab Emirates glossary 448 Fiennes, Ranulph 191 323 355 history 436-40 Film (O) 189 Sohar 173 ethnicity 424 logistics 445-6 etiquette 203-4 film festivals four-wheel driving 17, 158, 201, 484, 495 origins 437-8 business 35-7 Abu Dhabi Film Festival (UAE) 329 Hajar Mountains (O) 169 performing 442-4 dress 39-40, 41 Dubai International Film Jebel Akdhar (O) 166-7 umrah 446 eating 464 Festival (UAE) 298 (O) 167-8 visas 279, 444-5 mosques 40 Tribeca Film Festival Khasab-Tibat Road (O) Hajja (Y) 379 events 24-6, see also (Q) 219 180-1 hammams 484 festivals, sporting films 412 Haraz Mountains (Y) 374-8 events Khor Al-Adaid (Q) 226-7 fishing 202, 484 Hasik (O) 190 exchange rates 19, see also Road to Jaylah individual countries Five Pillars of Islam 451-2 (O) 148 Hatta (UAE) 310-11 expatriates 32-41, 426 Fizayah (O) 191 Mountain Road via Hatt Hawar Islands (B) 68 & Bani Awf (O) bureaucracy 38-9 flamingos 68, 226, 304, Hayma (O) 192 319 165-6 celebrations 39 health 38, 424, 499-503 floating hotel (O) 192 Muscat (O) 128-9 daily life 32-3 heat exhaustion 502 food 459-67, , see also Muscat to Salalah family life 37-8 25 heatstroke 502 individual locations (O) 189 health 38 Hejaz (SA) 250, 252-7 Arabian 459-62 sand dunes (UAE) 342 housing 38 Hejaz Railway (SA) 260, Asian 462 Saudi Arabia 274 261 transport 39 Bedouin 462-3 Sharqiya Sands (O) hepatitis A 500 155-6 books 464 hepatitis B 501 dates 200 frankincense 14, 183-4, F 194, 416, 419 hiking 201, 484 Fahaheel (K) 99 etiquette 465 Fujairah City (UAE) 344-7, Al-Hajjarah (Y) 378 (K) 99 festivals 337 345 Al-Mahwit (Y) 377 falaj 149 glossary 466-7 Bandar Jissah (O) 142 Falcon Souq (Q) 216, 217 halwa 176, 200 Hajar Mountains (O) 169 falconry 216, 217, 434-5, 25 honey 200, 373 G (Y) 381-2 galleries see also Islamic falcons 216, 328 language 505 Jebel Humr (O) 160 art, museums Farasan Islands (SA). 464 Kawkaban (Y) 375 Abu Dhabi (UAE) 326, 265 vegetarian & vegan 334 Manakhah (Y) 377 Fatima Mosque (K) 90 464-5 Dubai (UAE) 300 Misfat (O) 164-5 Ferrari World Abu Dhabi football 434, 435 (K) 87 Muscat (O) 129 (UAE) 329 Formula One 25, 26, 64-5 Manama (B) 52 Socotra (Y) 392 ferry travel 491 forts 17, 20 Mathaf (Q) 217 Wadi Shab (O) 148 festivals 24-6, see also Fort (UAE) 345 Sharjah (UAE) 312-13, Hilf (O) 160 events, sporting events, Al-Jahili Fort (UAE) 340 individual locations 314 Himyar empire 398 Al-Jalali Fort (O) 125 Gama, Vasco da 418 historic buildings, see also Al-Mintirib Fort (O) 155 architecture, castles, gay travellers 482 Al-Mirani Fort (O) 125 forts, palaces, mosques Map Pages 000 gazelles 192-3 Al-Zubara Fort (Q) 228 Al-Kaf Palace (Y) 396 Photo Pages 000 geography 468-9 517 Beit al-Badr (K) 89 ice skating 138, 294 Jubba (SA) 249 politics 101-2, 104 Beit Dickson (K) 85 immigration 489, 490 (UAE) population 106 Beit Seyadi (B) 67 bites 502 294-5 postal services 112 Beit Sheikh Isa Bin Ali insurance 482, 499 public holidays 112 (B) 66-7 internet access 482, see K religion 107-8 Heritage House (Q) 217 also individual locations Kamaran Island (Y) 380-1 safety 112-13, 113, 477 historic sites, see internet resources 19, 35, I Karman, Tawakkol 401 smoking 112 ND also archaeological 41, 451, 476, 500, see telephone services 113 sites, castles, forts, also individual locations Kawkaban (Y) 375-8 E X X palaces, tombs, Unesco khareef 26 travel seasons 78

- War 105, 268  H World Heritage Sites Khasab (O) 177-80 travel to/from 114-15

irrigation systems 149  L travel within 115 Al Fahidi Historical Islam 12, 429, 449-58, see Khasab Fort (O) 177-8 Neighbourhood (UAE) also hajj, mosques Khatt Hot Springs (UAE) visas 113 290 Al-Wahhab, Mohammed 325 weights 112 Bait Al Naboodah (UAE) ibn Abd 267 Khmazera Castle (O) 178 women travellers 113 312 books 457, 458 Khor al-Adaid (Q) 226-7 Kuwait City 82-98, 82-3, Dir’aiyah (SA) 250, 251 calendar 486-7 Khor an-Najd (O) 181 86-7 Hatta Heritage Village Khor ash-Sham (O) 181 accommodation 93-4 (UAE) 310-11 calligraphy 433 Khor Fakkan (UAE) 347 activities 91-2 Jazirat Al Hamra Fishing history 267, 398, 417-18, Khor Rouri (O) 187-8 architecture 90 Village (UAE) 321 455-7 King Fahd Causeway (B) 64 children, travel with 93 Jebel Khuraibah (SA) holidays 486 258 Sharjah Museum of King Solomon 389 courses 92 Muharraq Island (B) Islamic Civilisation Kingdom Tower (SA) 243 drinks 96-7 66-8 (UAE) 314 Koran, see emergency services 97 Old Abha (SA) 262 Wahhabi Islam 267, 270-1 Kumzar (O) 181 entertainment 97 Islamic art 84, 87, 215, Old Al-Ula (SA) 257-8 Kuwait 43, 78-115, 80-1 festivals 92-3 432-3 Old Town, Shibam (Y) accommodation 110 food 95-6 486-7 395, 15 activities 110 history 83 itineraries 27-31, see also Shindagha Heritage Area internet access 97 individual locations alcohol 111 (UAE) 291 arts 108 medical services 97 Umm al-Daraj (SA) 258 basics 18 money 97-8 Umm Salal Ali (Q) 227 J books 110 nightlife 96-7 history 415-22, see also Jaaluni (O) 192-3 budget 79, 110, 111 postal services 98 individual locations Jabal Bura (Y) 381-2 climate 78 shopping 97 Battle of Mirbat 188 Jabrin (O) 170 culture 78, 105, 107 sights 83-91 frankincense 194 Jalan Bani Bu Ali (O) 152-3 customs regulations telephone services 98 Himyar empire 398 Jalan Bani Bu Hassan (O) 110-11 tourist information 98 152-3 Islam 417-18, 449-50 drinks 79, 111 tours 92 Jaylah (O) 154 Nabataeans 263 economy 102 travel within 98 Jazirat Al Hamra Fishing oil 422 environment 108-10 Kuwait House of National Village (UAE) 321 pearling industry 420-1 exchange rates 79 Works: Memorial (O) 166-7 Portuguese occupa- festivals 92-3 Museum 90 tion 418 (UAE) 344 food 79, 111 Kuwait Towers 17, 85, 90, 17 Sabaean Empire 398 Jebel Harim (O) 182 highlights 80 trading routes 415-17 Jebel Humr (O) 160 history 102-5 hitching 496-7 Jebel Jassassiyeh (Q) 228 L internet access 111 language 18, 504-10 HIV 500, 501 Jebel Khuraibah (SA) 258 internet resources 79 food 466-7 holidays 26, 486-7 Jebel Misht (O) 171 Iraqi invasion 90, 101, hajj 448 horse racing 24, 218, 298, Jebel Samhan (O) 190 104, 104-5 306, 434 Lawrence, TE 217, 421 Jebel Shams (O) 13, itineraries 79 horse riding 176, 130, 339 167-8, 13 legal matters 33, 35, 452-3, maps 111 483 hot springs 174, 325 Jebel Soudah (SA) 264 measures 112 lesbian travellers 482 Jeddah (SA) 250-5, 252, media 112 Liberation Tower (K) 89, 90 254 mobile phones 113 lifestyle 423, 427 I Jenadriyah National Festi- (Y) 384 val (SA) 24, 243, 246 money 111-12 literature 234, 271, 353-4, Ibn al-Saud, Abdul Aziz ibn 401, 412, see also books Jibbali tribespeople 188 nature 78 Abdul Rahman 267 Liwa (UAE) 336-7 Jibla (Y) 385 opening hours 112 Ibn Mukarab 149 Lothan Youth Achievement jihad 453 people 106-7 IIbra (O) 157-9 Center (K) 107 Job’s Tomb (O) 187 photography 112 Ibri (O) 171 518 M Mesaieed (Q) 226 festivals 130-1 National Museum for Madain Saleh (SA) 259-61, Mirbat (O) 188 food 134-6 Antiquities (Y) 387 259, 14 misbah 233 history 121-2 Natural History Museum Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai Misfat (O) 164-5, 165 internet access 139 (O) 128 (UAE) 295 mobile phones 488, see medical services 139 Omani-French Museum (O) 126 (UAE) also individual countries money 139

I 335-61 Mohammed 449-50 RAK Pearls Museum ND nightlife 136-7 (UAE) 321 madrassas 382-3 money 19, 483, see also postal services 139 E Science & Natural.

X X Mahram Bilqis (Y) 390 individual countries shopping 137-9 History Museum (K) 89

M-N malaria 501 moneychangers 485  sights 122-8 Scientific Center (K) 85 Manakhah (Y) 377 mosques telephone services 139 .Sharjah Calligraphy  Manama (B) 49-62, Al Noor (UAE) 315 tourist information 139 Museum (UAE) 313-14 54-5, 58 Al-Asha’ir Mosque tours 130 Sharjah Heritage accommodation 53, 56-7 (Y) 383 travel to/from 140 Museum (UAE) 311 activities 52-3 Al-Fatih Mosque (B) travel within 140 Sharjah Maritime children, travel with 52 49, 52 walking tour 132-3 Museum (UAE) 315 drinks 59 Al-Muhdar Mosque Sheikh Saeed al-Mak- (Y) 396 Muscat Festival (O) 24, 130 emergency services 61 toum House, Dubai Al-Saleh Mosque (Y) museums 21, see also ar- entertainment 60 (UAE) 291 368-9 chaeological museums, food 57-9 galleries, Islamic art, oil Sheikh Zayed Palace Badiyah Mosque (UAE) Museum (UAE) 340 internet access 61 347 museums medical services 61 Abu Dhabi Heritage. Sultan’s Armed Forces etiquette 40 Museum (O) 127 money 61 Village (UAE) 326-7 Fatima Mosque (K) 90 Sultan’s Palace (Y). nightlife 59 Al-Hashemi Marine Grand Mosque, Kuwait Museum (K) 91 395 postal services 62 City (K) 87, 90 Al-Hoota Cave. (K) sights 49 Grand Mosque, Muscat Geological Museum 84-5, 16 telephone services 62 (O) 128, 13 (O) 164 Weaponry Museum tourist information 62 Great Mosque, Sana‘a Al-Qurain Martyrs’ (Q) 217 tours 53 (Y) 369 Museum (K) 91, 104 music 197, 354, 430-1 travel to/from 62 Jami al-Hamoda Mosque Al-Tayibat City Museum Royal Opera House. travel within 62 (O) 153 for International Muscat (O) 127-8, 29 Ma’rib (Y) 388-90 Jumeirah Mosque (UAE) Civilisation (SA) , see Islam 294-5 Marina Bandar al-Rowdha 250, 252 mutawwa 277 Sana‘a (Y) 368-9 (O) 126 Bahrain National Mutla Ridge (K) 100 Shaikh Nasser al- 49 markets, see also souqs Mutrah Souq (O) 123, 129, Mosque (K) 90 Bayt al-Zubair (O) 125 Bedouin weavings 265 138, 12, 29 Sheikh Zayed Grand camel 250, 340-1 Beit al-Quran (B) 52 Mosque (UAE) 328, 7 crafts 157, 162, 173, 262 Bilad al-Sifah (O) 164 Bin Matar House (B) 67 N fish 252, 380 (UAE) 345 Nabataeans 259-61, 263 livestock 159, 162, 224 Children’s Museum Zabid (Y) 383 (O) 138 Najran (SA) 264 produce 157, 291, 346 motorcycle travel 491, Dubai Museum (UAE) 291 Nakhal (O) 174 qat 385 494, 496 Emirates National Auto National Assembly Building spice 291 mountains 469-71 Museum (UAE) 336 (K) 89, 90 Masdar City (UAE) 331 Mubarak the Great 103, 105 Fort Museum (B) 62 national parks & protected Masirah (O) 159-62 Mughsail (O) 190 Kuwait House of. areas 471-2, see also Masmak Fortress (SA) 243 Muharraq Island (B) 66-8 National Works:. Mazara (O) 144 multiculturalism 33 Memorial Museum 90 Al-Areen Wildlife Park & Reserve (B) 65 (SA) 267, 418,. Musandam Khors (O) 181 Maritime Museum (K) Asir National Park (SA) 437-8, 442 (O) 85-7 262, 264 medical services 500 177-82 Military Museum (Y) 370 Bahrain 73 (SA) 267, 280-1, Muscat (O) 120-40, 120, Muscat Gate Museum Dubai Desert. 418, 438-9 124-5, 126, 128 (O) 124 Conservation Reserve meningitis 501 accommodation 131-2 Museum of Islamic Art (Q) 215 310 meningococcal infection activities 128-30 National Museum (SA) Jabal Bura Protected 501 children, travel with 138 243 Area (Y) 382 courses 130 National Museum (Y) Kuwait 110 drinks 136-7 Oman 199 Map Pages 000 370, 385 emergency services 139 Qurm Nature Reserve Photo Pages 000 National Museum events 130-1 Complex (K) 87-8 (O) 127 519 Ras Al Khor Wildlife photography 203 planning 18-19, see legal matters 237 Sanctuary (UAE) 304 plants 199 also itineraries, measures 239 Saudi Arabia 273 Portuguese invasion individual locations media 239 Nizwa (O) 162-3 194-5 Bahrain 42 money 237 postal services 203 budgeting 19 nature 209 public holidays 203 calendar of events 24-6 O opening hours 237 religion 196-7 internet resources 19 I Oases of Muntasar (O) 189 photography 237 ND safety 477 itineraries 27-31 politics 229

Oasis of Muqshin (O) 189 E

Kuwait 43 X oil industry 70, 232, 267-8, shopping 204 postal services 237 350, 422 smoking 207 Oman 43 public holidays 238 N- oil museums solo travellers 204-5 Qatar 43 safety 238, 477  R Aramco Exhibit (SA) 265 Sultan Qaboos 193 Saudi Arabia 44 smoking 239 Oil Display Centre telephone services 205 travel seasons 18-19, telephone services 238 24-6 (K) 99 tourist information 134-5 travel seasons 209 United Arab Emirates 44 Oil Museum (B) 66 tours 205 travel to/from 238-9 visas 489 PDO Oil & Gas Exhibition travel seasons 116 travel within 239-40 Yemen 44 (O) 127 travel to/from 206-7 visas 238 oil spill 109 travel within 207-8 plants 109-10, 199, 234, 393 weights 239 Old Al-Ula (SA) 257-8 visas 205-6 wildlife 235 Old Jeddah (SA) 253 poetry 234, 353-4, . weights 207 429-30, see also books, women travellers 238 Old Kuwaiti Town (K) 89 wildlife 198-9 literature Queen Arwa 385 Oman 43, 116-208, 118 women travellers 206 politics 413-14, see also 20, 389 accommodation 192, 201 opening hours 485, see individual countries Quran 452 activities 169, 201-2 also individual countries population 413, 424, see Quranic schools 382-3 architecture 197-8 outdoor activities 23, also individual countries Qurayat (O) 144 169, 484 arts 197-8 pottery 170 Qurm (O) 127 basics 18-19 prayer beads 233 books 202 P Prophet Hud 396 budget 117, 201, 203 palaces public holidays 486-7, see R rabies 501 children, travel with 202 Al-Bustan Palace (O) 126 also individual countries Ramadan 39, 452, 464, climate 116 public transport 497 Al-Kaf Palace (Y) 396 486 culture 116, 195-6 Dar al-Hajar (Y) 374 rappelling 169 customs regulations 202 Fariq Al-Salata Palace Q Ras Al Khaimah (UAE) dangers 202 (Q) 216 Qal’at al-Bahrain (B) 62 321-5, 322 Sheik Zayed Palace disabilities, travellers Qalhat (O) 149-50 Ras Al Khor Wildlife. Museum, Al Ain (UAE) with 205 qat 385, 402 Sanctuary (UAE) 304 340 drinks 117, 200-1 Qatar 43, 209-40, Ras al-Hadd (O) 151 Sief Palace (K) 87 211 economy 194 accommodation 235-6 Ras al-Jinz (O) 150-1 Sultan’s Palace (O) 124-5 electricity 207 activities 236 Ras al-Junayz (O) 150-1 Sultan’s Palace (Y) 395 employment 206 alcohol 237 Ras al-Zour (K) 99 paragliding 263 environment 198-200 arts 233-4 Ras Madrakah (O) 189 passports 489, 490 exchange rates 117 basics 18 Rawdah Bowl (O) 182 pearls 61 food 117, 200, 200-1, 203 books 236 Red Fort (K) 100 diving 68 geography 198 budget 210, 236, 237 Red Sands (SA) 250 history 67, 420-1 geology 175 climate 209 14 industry 69-70 highlights 118 culture 209, 232-3 Red Sea Coast (Y) 379-83 history 194-5 RAK Pearls Museum (UAE) 321 customs regulations 236 Rejal Al-Maa (SA) 264 internet access 203 petroglyphs, see also dangers 238 religion 413, 429, 451, internet resources 117 archeological sites disabilities, travellers 458, see also Islam, itineraries 117 individual countries Jebel Jassassiyeh (Q) with 238 legal matters 203 228 drinks 210, 237 religious police 277 maps 203 Jubba (SA) 249 environment 234-5 Riffa Fort (B) 64 measures 207 Tawi (O) 180 exchange rates 210 (SA) 243-50, . , media 207 Umm al-Daraj (SA) 258 food 210, 237 246-7 248 accommodation 246-7 money 203 photography 486, see also highlights 211 national parks & individial countries history 231-2 emergency services 248 reserves 199 pilgrimage, see hajj internet access 237 festivals 243, 246 nature 116 planetariums 88, 89, 127 itineraries 210 food 247-8 opening hours 123, 204 internet access 249 520 Riyadh (SA) continued emergency services 373 Ramadan 277 Shibam (Haraz Mountains, medical services 249 food 371-2 religion 269, 270-1 Y) 375 money 249 history 366-7 safety 277-8, 477 Shibam (eastern Yemen) orientation 248 internet access 373 smoking 274 394-5, 15 shopping 248 medical services 373 telephone services 278 ships 192, see also dhows sights 243 money 373 terrorism 266, 278 Shiite Muslims 450

I Shisr (O) 189 ND tourist information 249 orientation 373 travel seasons 241 travel to/from 249 postal services 373 travel to/from 280 shopping 20, see also mar- E kets, souqs, individual X X travel within 249-50 safety 370 travel within 280-3 locations R- rock climbing 169, 202, shopping 372 visas 243, 246, 278-9 

S bargaining 485, 487  263 sights 367-70 weights 274 festivals 92-3, 298 rock 188 tourist information 373 women 269, 278, 280 216, 291 rosewater 167 tours 370 youth 268 language 506 Royal Opera House Muscat travel to/from 373-4 Sawadi (O) 176-7 pearls (B) 61 (O) 127-8, 29 travel within 374 Sayh plateau (O) 182 Shwaymiyah (O) 189 Rub al-Khali (Empty. sand dunes 337, 342 Sayun (Y) 395 Quarter) tours 188, 274 Sinaw (O) 159 Sar (B) 63 Scientific Center (K) 85 ruins 14, see also archeo- Sinkhole Park (Hawiyat Saudi Arabia 44, 241-83, seas 471 logical sites Najm Park) (O) 147 244-5 security, see safety Aden Tanks (Y) 387 Sir Bani (UAE) accommodation 273-4 Seeb (O) 141-2 ‘Arsh-Bilquis (Y) 389-90 338-40 activities 274-5 September 11 266 Great Ma’rib Dam (Y) Ski Dubai (UAE) 298 388, 389 architecture 271-2 (Y) 390 smoking 487, see also Madain Saleh (SA) arts 271-2 Shada Palace (SA) 262 individual countries 259-61, 14 basics 18-19 (Y) 379 smuggling 379, 383 Mahram Bilquis (Y) 390 books 270 Shaikh Nasser al-Sabah snake bites 479 Sumhuram. budget 242, 273, 275 Mosque (K) 90 Snake Gorge (O) 165 Archaeological Park children, traveling with Shamal (UAE) 323 Snoopy Island (UAE) 348 (O) 187-8 275 Shams/Tibat border 324, snorkelling 484 Rustaq (O) 174 climate 241 360 Al Aqah (UAE) 348 culture 241 Shana’a (O) 152 Bandar Jissah (O) 142 customs regulations Sharia’a 452-3 Bandar Khayran (O) 143 S 275, 276 Sharjah (UAE) 15, 311-17, Sa’da (Y) 378, 379 Damanayat Islands dangers 277-8 312-13 (O) 177 Sabaean Empire 398 discount cards 274 Sharjah Biennial (UAE) 315 Mirbat (O) 188, 190 Sabah, Abdullah al-Salem drinks 242 Sharjah Desert Park al- 104 Muscat (O) 130 economy 266 (UAE) 317 Safa’iq (O) 160 Sawadi (O) 176 environment 272-3 Sharjah Heritage Museum Socotra (Y) 391 safety 19, 363, 476-80,. (UAE) 311 488, 496, see exchange rates 242 Socotra (Y) 391-4, Sharjah International Book 391 also women travellers, festivals 243, 246 Fair (UAE) 315 Sohar (O) 172-3 individual locations food 242, 275 Sharqiya (Wahiba) Sands Souq al-Milh (Y) 367 hitching 496-7 hajj 436-48 (O) 155-7, 10, 23 Souq Marbarakia (K) 89 solo travellers 487-8 highlights 244 Shatti al-Qurm (O) 127-8 Souq Waqif, Doha (Q) 216 sailing 218 history 266-8 Sheba’s Palace (UAE). souqs 12, 20, 432, see Saiq (O) 166 internet access 275 323 also markets Sakharat al-Fil (SA) 258-9 internet resources 242 sheesha 462 Abha (SA) 262 Salalah (O) 182-7, 183 itineraries 242 Sheikh Ebrahim bin Abu Dhabi (UAE) 327 tours 188 legal matters 275-6 Mohammed Al-Khalifa Al Ain (UAE) 340-1 Salalah Tourism Festival maps 276 Centre for Culture and Al-Hudayda (Y) 380 (O) 26, 184 measures 274 Research (B) 67 Bab al-Kabir (Y) 385 Saleh, Ali Abdullah 397-9 media 276 Sheikh Mohammed Centre Beit al-Faqih (Y) 382 for Cultural Under- Sana‘a (Y) 366-74, 366, money 276 standing (UAE) 295 Doha (Q) 216, 217, 224 368-9 mutawwa 277 Dubai (UAE) 291, 294 accommodation 370-1 Sheikh Saeed al-Maktoum nature 241 House (UAE) 291 Ibb (Y) 384 activities 367-70 opening hours 269, Sheikh Zayed 354 Ibra (O) 157-8 drinks 372 276-7 Sheikh Zayed Grand Jeddah (SA) 252 photography 277 Mosque (UAE) 328, 7 Jibla (Y) 385 politics 266 Map Pages 000 Sheikh Zayed Mosque Kuwait City (K) 89, 90, population 268-70 (UAE) 345 91, 97 Photo Pages 000 postal services 277 Manama (B) 60 521 (UAE) 346 theatre 97, 223, 306 U public holidays 358 Mutrah (O) 123, 129, 138, theme parks 100, 316, 329, Ubar (O) 191, 194 safety 358, 477-8 12, 29 see also water parks Umm Al Quwain (UAE) telephone services 358 Nairiyah 265 Thesiger, Sir Wilfred 162, 319-21 toilets 358 Nizwa (O) 162 340 Umm Salal Ali (Q) 227 tours 361 Old Jeddah (SA) 253 Thilla () (Y) 376 Umm Salal Mohammed travel seasons 284

thobe 428 (Q) 227 I Riyadh (SA) 250 travel to/from 359-60 ND Salalah (O) 184 Thumrait (O) 189 umrah 279, 446, see travel within 360-1 E

Sana‘a (Y) 367, 370 Tihama (Red Sea Coast; Y) also hajj visas 324, 359 X

-S  379-83 Sharjah (UAE) 312, Unesco World Heritage women 352

time 488, 506 Sites 414  W 316, 15 women travellers 359 Sinaw (O) 159 tipping 485 (UAE) 343 Sohar (O) 173 Tiwi (O) 148-9 Al-Ayn (O) 170-1 sport 433-5, see also toilets 488 Bahla Fort (O) 169 V individual sports tombs Bat (O) 170-1 vacations 26, 486-7 sporting events 24-6, 236 Al-Ayn (O) 170-1 Bida Bint Saud (UAE) vegetarian food 464-5 Abu Dhabi Grand Prix Bat (O) 170-1 343 visas 444-5, 489, 493, see (UAE) 330 Bin Ali Tomb (O) 188 Dir’aiyah (SA) 250, 251 also individual countries Dubai Marathon (UAE) Jaylah (O) 154 (UAE) 343 24 Jebel Khuraibah (SA) W Dubai World Cup (UAE) 258 Shibam (Y) 395, 15 wadis 22, see also national 24, 298 Job’s Tomb (O) 187 Zabid (Y) 382-3 parks & protected areas Formula One Abu Dhabi Madain Saleh (SA) United Arab Emirates 44, Wadi Bani Awf (O) 174 (UAE) 26 259-61, 14 284-361, 286 Wadi Bani Habib (O) 166 Formula One Bahrain 25 Rawdah Bowl (O) 182 accomodation 355 Wadi Bani Khalid (O) Power Boat GP (Q) 25 Tomb of Bibi Miriam (O) alcohol 353 153-4 Qatar ExxonMobil 149-50 arts 353-4 Wadi Bani Kharus Open 24 tourist information 488 basics 18-19 (O) 175 Stark, Freya 85 tours 188, 491-2, see budget 285, 355, 356 Wadi Daw’an (Y) 396-7 Sultan Qaboos 193 also walking tours, business 352-3 Wadi Dayqat dam (O) Sultan’s Armed Forces individual locations children, travel with 144 Museum (O) 127 mountain safaris (O) 179 355-6 Wadi Dhahr (Y) 374 Sultan’s Palace (O) 124-5 turtle-watching (O) 150 climate 284 Wadi Dharbat (O) 188 Sunni Muslims 450 tower houses 370, 371, 378 culture 284, 352-3 Wadi Ghul (O) 13, 167-8 Suqutra (Y), see Socotra trading routes 415-17 customs 353 Wadi Hadramawt (Y) (Y) trains 498 customs regulations 356 394-7, 394 Sur (O) 144-7, 145 transport 490-8, 507 drinks 285, 356 Wadi Hoqain (O) 175 surfing 392, 484, see also travel seasons 18, see driving 358 Wadi Khabbah (O) 154-5 beaches also individual countries economy 351-2 Wadi Mayh (O) 143 swimming 91, 92, 160, travel to/from the Arabian Wadi Shab (O) 148 181, 302, 479, see also environment 354-5 Peninsula 490-2, see Wadi Shuhram (O) 189 beaches also individual locations etiquette 353 Wadi Tayein (O) 154-5 travel within the Arabian exchange rates 285 Wadi Tiwi 149 Peninsula 492-8, see festivals 315, 335-6 T also individual locations food 285, 356 (UAE). Taif (SA) 256 349 travellers cheques 485 gay travellers 356 Ta’izz (Y) 385-6, 386-7 Wafrah Farms (K) 100 Tree of Life (B) 66 highlights 286 Taqah (O) 187 Wahiba Sands (O), trekking, see hiking history 349-51 Tareq Rajab Museum (K) see Sharqiya Sands (O) Tribeca Film Festival internet access 356-7 16, 84, 16 walking, see hiking (Q) 219 internet resources 285 Tarim (Y) 396 walking tours tuberculosis 501 itineraries 285 taxis 497-8 Dir’aiyah (SA) 251 Turkish baths 484 legal matters 357 Telegraph Island (O) 181 Doha (Q) 218 turtles 26, 202, 472 lesbian travellers 356 telephone services 488, Muharraq Island (B) 67 turtle-watching 150, 152 media 357 see also individual Muscat (O) 132-3 locations Damanayat Islands money 357 (O) 177 water 96, 472 television 230 nature 284 Masirah (O) 159-62 water, drinking 47, 60, 79, Temple of Bilqis (Y) 390 opening hours 357 117, 210, 502 Oman 152 Temple of the Moon (Y) photography 357 water parks 389-90 Ras al-Jinz (O) 150-1 politics 351 Aquaventure (UAE) typhoid 501-2 terrorism 278, 404-5 postal services 358 297-8 522 water parks. Damanayat Islands work 35-7 food 402-3, 405 continued (O) 177 World Heritage Sites, highlights 364 Dreamland Aqua Park Farasan Islands (SA) 265 see Unesco World history 398-9 (UAE) 320 Jaaluni (O) 192-3 Heritage Sites internet resources 363 Iceland Water Park Masirah (O) 159-62 Wubar (Ubar; O) 191, 194 itineraries 363 (UAE) 322 Ras al-Jinz (O) 150-1 money 405-7

I Kuwait City (K) 93 Sharqiya Sands (O) 157 ND nature 362 Lost Paradise of Y Island (UAE) Yanbu (SA) 256-7 opening hours 407 E Water Park (B) 65

X X 338-40 Wadi Adventure (UAE) Yas Central (UAE) 329 politics 399 W- Socotra (Y) 393  341 Yaum Al-Bahhar Village population 400 Z Wadi Dharbat (O) 188 (K) 89 public holidays 407 Wild Wadi Water Park  (UAE) 295-6 Wadi Wurayah (UAE) 349 yellow fever 502 religion 401 Yas Waterworld (UAE) wind towers 89, 217, 431, Yemen 44, 362-410, 364 safety, 363 433 329 accommodation 403 tours 409 windsurfing 92, 392 water pipes, see sheesha arts 401-2 travel seasons 362 women 425-7, 428-9, 454 water sports 130, 202, 484 basics 18 travel to/from 408-9 women travellers 489 Weaponry Museum (Q) 217 books 403-4 travel within 409 Bahrain 76 weather 18, 24-6, 479 budget 363, 403, 405 tribes 400 dangers 480 wildlife 22, 72-3, 108-9, civil war 397, 398-9 visas 407-8 Kuwait 113 198-9, 235, 355, 272-3, climate 362 women travellers 408 see also individual Oman 206 culture 362 Yitti (O) 142 animals Qatar 238 dangers 363, 378-9, 390, wildlife watching 22, 152, safety 480 395, 404-5 339 Saudi Arabia 278, 280 drinks 402-3 Z Al-Areen Wildlife Park & Zabid (Y) 382-3 United Arab Emirates economy 400 Reserve (B) 65 359 zoos 93, 317, 340 emergency services 373 Arabia’s Wildlife Centre Yemen 408 (UAE) 317 exchange rates 363 women’s health 503

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